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ALA: MICROFILM NOR>£
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ALA: MICROFILM N0RA6
m
/ '
A
Brief Account
OF SOME
TRAVEL
In divers Parts of
EUROPE,
Viz.
HUNG ARIA, -^ AV SI ill A,
S ERVIA, BV LG A RI A, MAC EDO Ml A, THESS ALr^
S r TR 1 A ' C ARINJ HIA C ARNIOLA,' and FRIVLI
L
Through a great part of
GERMANY'
AND
The Low-Countries. Through Marca Trevifaria , and Lo7tiharJy on bodi lides the Po.
With fomc Obicrvations on tlic Gof^, Silver, Copper, Qukk^iher Mines and tlie Batln and Mineral \\\itcn in thole Parts. '
AS ALSO,
The DcR ription of many Antiqtiitics.Habits, Fortifications and Remarkable Places.
The Second lidition with mam- Additions.
By EDW AKI) BRoWn, M. D.
/. 0 N D 0 N,
Printed for Bifij. Iook\ and are to be Sold hv Tho. SawbriJgc. at die Three 1 lomr-ilc'luccs in Littlc-lhittain, \6^-j.
TO THE
RE A
A Great part of thefe Papers were Printed eight years fince, arid fome of them have [te7i the light 7io lefs than tvpehe : But fince that the Copies ha-ve been difpofec/of, and the Impreffions foU ^ the ^ookkWcM hath thought jit to Reprint them together. In order to which, vphilji he gaue vie the Opportunity to read them over, / could not omit the making of divers Additions^ and ad]oy7i- ing ajiother Journey through the delightful Country of Lombardv : Calling to mind the Magnificeiice of fame Roman Afitiquities, and the Remarkable Actions of great Men in thofe Quarters. Whereby I might give a Jhort Ac- count of the jirange Fate and various ''Revolutions of divers of their ancient Cities. As to the natural Curicjities and Obfervations in the fir/i parts, it would be unnecejfary to viake any Introduclion, they having now run through fo ma~ 7iy hands. I can only fay, that what you had in fcattered parts before, are here compacted together in one intire Vo- lume , and hope for the fame kind Accepta?ice. The num- ber of the Cuts are increafed , and the Figures of divers Habits, Medals and Antiquities, added: The Particidar Defer iption of which, in this Prctace would prevejit the fa- tisfaciion of confidering them in their proper places ; to which IJhall refer you, wijhing you the fame pleafure in viewing them there, that I have had formerly in beholding them in their due Situations, and in the Contemplation and Defcription of them afterwards.
Edward Brown.
A
( I )
THE
General Defcription
o f
N GARY
O W far H7J NGAR I A exceeds other Countries of E^rops m Mines, Baths and Mineral-waters ; becaufc I have elfewhcre given a particular account of fuch Sub- jedts, I fhall at prefent omit tlicir repetitions, and at this time add feme other Confiderables; and m the firll place fay, That it aboundeth not only in thofe, i>ut IS :! o^tiie beft Rivcred Country in Europe: nor doch any Region thereoi aiTord (i) many noble and ufeful Streams.
On the Ea.a fide it is ualhcd with that Noble and Navigable River Tn'.'jc-^s.o'c the TeHle, arifing in the Country oi Muromor-js, at the foot ot tic high Carpathi.mHilh: which, having received tht Mar^Jcus or Alan/.,, and many Rivers into it, runneth into the Danube, between rarcJine, ^i. Peter nnd Belgrade. By this River comes down the great quantity of natural Stone-lilt, brought from many Salt-mines m Hungary and Tranjyhaiuri', whereof a great part is brought up the Danube to ali Places, as far a^: Vreshurq^ ; ( it being prohibited to be ear- ned any jiigher ) lealt it ihould hinder the lale of the Ausinan Salt up :)n which the Emperor hath an Import, and no fmall quantity alfo dc.W'i tlic Danak-, and afterwaids up the River Mora-va into Servia and neiglibouring Countries.
On tlie Weft lide runs the River Araho or Rah, rifing in Styna, and lunning into tlie Danuhchy Javnmim or Rub. A confiderable River receiving; tiie Laufnitz, Finca, Qh-.kz, and other Rivers into it. And now 1 tely more famous for t!ie deleat of the Turks, under Achmei- the Grand F'f^cr , by the Imperial Forces, at St. Got hard, nigh this River. The difcourfe hereof was I'relh, when I was at the City of Rab : and ma- ny I found, who law the Corps of Men and Horles floating in that Stream.
Upon the Southern Parts are confiderable, the River Dravus or Drau which arifing in the Territory oi SaltzburglanJ, a part of old Noricutn, ru!i, a long couric tiirough Carmthia and Elungary, and falls into tiie Damde nejr ErdoeJ, or old teutolnrgium; alter it hath palled Irom its head about three hundred Miles, /^ibout its entrance into Ihma- ry, It receiv.'th into it the long River Mur ; and, lar above this, nearer Its original I found it a coni'dcrable Stream : having palled tlie lame by a good Br;dg as Ivgli ^% }}llacb Qr ytlhco, and between ClaTenhrt and Mount /.c'/^/v// mCarhhui, I p-llcd the fame alio bv two lo-'^
Wooden Bridges, and an Ulind in the m^dJie between them'
B
o
On
/
\i
The General Vefcripticn of Hungar^'.
I
On the lame fide is alio the noble River S^zus, or the Sau ; whicli i- rif.np in Carhtfju, entreth the Dumle at Ee/gri^e ■ continuing a Ion- courTe oF about three hundred Miles, andfwclhngby the acallion ot manv flood Rivers. Being at Cir^o^unum or Crjoinir: an hrnJlcm Town, not far diftant irom the Head, it appeared a confidcraHe .'stream; which is afteruards fo enlarged, as to have remaikab e I(.^n...s in it, as that of Metularis, to the Weft of old Snmum, and that of .S.-^f ;//r.7 or Siijeck hy Z^irahia, containing of old a ftrong and lamous I own; unto which tlie old Rma^i brought their Commodities kom Aqiulasi, and fo h\ Land to ULichix: Nauportni; Irom thence unto Seqediia, and forwards, for the fupply of thofe Provinces and their Garnlons and Forces in them. Between thefe two noble Currents ot the Dra^ia and the Savus, lyeth a fair and long hm-:imm^>, Country, uherein Sohman the M.ignificcnt chofe a fate retreat, until he came to /^r/- zride- when with about four liundrcd thouland Men, which he brought to take rten>u, he dared not to meet the Forces ot Cl:arks the Fifth, then encamped before that City. " -r r r
Ui>on the North part of Hti>igary, are the Rivers arifing irom the CarLtHan Mountams, which divid'eFcA/'/^ and Hnng^ry ; more parti- cularlv the River Cnw, nv liich runs into the Dannie, over agamic Str,z,o^iruraov(jn7,!; and alfo the River F/VMg or f\:g/^s, which comes in above Cor^^^r., : which Su^kius, an ocular W'itnels conceiveth to e- qual tlie Fo in l'j(y. I am fure, at FrfJJht, above fifty Miles, betore it difchargeth into the D^imle, it is a very large Stream, and hath a long Bridge over it; part whereof was broken down by the Ice, the fame year w hen 1 was there. And far above it, nearer the head, there is alfo a ccnfiderable Bridge at rrf«/cZv«,a fair Town, which gives the name unto that Country, and much reforted unto tor its hot Baths and Mineral U atcrs; having no lefs than thirty two plentilul Springs.
The c^reat Damluts or Thi^M continues its Stream quite tiirough I/mgan ; and no one Province hath a larger thare ot it ; tor account- ing froni the City of ^^/we in Sivalenbnd ox Suevia . where it begin - ncth to be Navigable, it continues a long courle, patHng by hgdJtaJ, Ratislotie, StrauliKi^, P^U^u, Lintz and rknna unto I'reslurg ; from w hence through Hungary it makes a courfe ot above three hundred Miles, before it partes by Belgrade : To omit the long Stream thereof in itsVarther progrefs, when having walhed the Shoars ot'Serv/a, Bul- garia, VVallachia and Moldavia, With many mouths it entreth tlie Ew xine or Bla k-Sea : having in this long paflage drank in above fixty con- fiderable Rivers ; and in lobcr account pertbrmed a courle ot above fifteen hundred Miles. \\ hereby it may tolerably admit the dowble name of Danuhms and Ister , properly applyed unto diftinttl Parts
thereof. , ,, , . . j .
So that, altho I have feen tl;e Danulius. tor about feven hundred Miles ; yet cannot tell, whether I may certainly lay, that I have Icen a- ny part of nter. For Straho afcribes that name unto it , below its Catarad, or great tall, which happenes about Axio/w/n; in Mt^/ja in- ferior, or Bulgaria. But .-^ppranui, and later Account, detinc it to be- gin at its concurrence with the Savui at Belgrade ; and it to, yet we had but a ihort fight of the IJier ; which travelling more up into Scr- z'ta, we were tain to leave at Hijjargicb. And ot this IJler or lower part ot the River, many things are fpokcn and related by the Ancients,
which are not fo plainly veritiable of Danuhius.
Befidcs
The General Defcrifthn of Hungarv.
Befides thefe large Rivers above named, there arc irAWt others, taken notice of alfo by Pl/ny ; and cfteemed tlwvti mn ignohiles. The ^ar- viztj or Orpams, arifing near rejpri lum^ and palling by Alha Rsgulis^ runs into the Dard^ty whicli I palE^d over at 7^>»/, or novd Fulu.> ka. Tiie River iValpo or l^dpunti.., arifing above the Town ot' \'\\ihOy which was taken by Solyman^ in his march to Alha i^egaLs, or Stull- Weijjenhurg Wc pafTed over it by W jAt^iwr, and the River Boj)iethor Eacun'hus y which runs into the Suvia, not tir from old Sirmi'^
urn
As this Country excels in Riv^ers, fo has it alfo many c -nfidera- ble and long /^ndges. There is a long Bridge of Boats over the Danuht^ between Stngonium and Banhan^ which is the firlf Bridge on this Ri- ver, which we meet with from t!ie great Wooden Briilge at/^V^/;«tj, which takes above two thoufand Trees to plancher it. Upon the ihoar of vSt. A,i^fre'.v\ I[lj>3rt by I'lrouukitz^ I took n*)tice of a ruine of bronesj where the lurki told us, there had been tormerlv a Stone Bridge : but the Tt4rh in thefe Pares, think it bell to make Bridges of Boats; which they lb handlomly contrive, as to open a paiTjge tor Boars and Vellcls of burthen to pals; (o that he that Leholds thole in thefe Parts, will not wonder at the Bridges of Boats at Ronen. and GrenvUe in irame. Between Budu and PeH^ there is a Bridge of Boats ovei^ the LU^mhe^ where it runs all in one Stream, of above half a Mile long, the bell I have ften of this kind; and it Sigijmund had lived lo tflcdt his De- fign, of making a notable Stone Bridge in this Place, tiiere had proba- bly been no bridge in E^rpe to compare with it. There is alio a Bridge at Calocza^ lormerly an Arckhijhop\ Sea, and a hmdlome and well-contrived Bridge, by Wakoxar o\zt the River Wulpo, But that of Fll'ak, or Murfu of old, is fcarce to be parallel'd with nny other; built partly o'.er the Druvus^^ and partly ov^r the Fe>f?ts,wh'ich are often overflowed. The Bridge is five MiJcs at lead in length, having Towers built upon it at the dillance of every quarter of a Mile : It is hand- Ibmly railed on each fide, and fupported by great Trees, crecicd under it; nin- or ten in a rank, unto each Arch. That part of the Bridge, which wa> built over the DraiuSy was burnt down by Count A'/c/W^ji Serin, in the late Jurkilh Wars between Leopoldm the Firll:, Emperor of Germa'j^ and Pultun ^Lihomet the Fourth ; and is now lupplvei by a Bridge of Boats, (omewhat b low the tbrmer ; which I palled o- ver in September^ 1669. The Turks did not rebuild it in the fame place, becaufe the Supporters below the Water, when the fire c afed, were fo Ifrongly fatlned and hard, that it would have coft them too great a labour to get them a p. By this Bridge the Inrkijk Forces pais into f/u>?gary: and at this place the un^lortunate King Ludovicus thought to have flopped the Turkilh Army which marched undier So^ lymua. And lately Count Serini undertook a long March to burn the fame, to prevent Supplies from coming to the Fiper^ who was with his Army u\ otlier parts of Hungary.
And as there are ll:ill many Bridges over the upper DanuLe^ io have there alio been in Old time upon the lo^'er,. or Ijirun part tliereof. Darius King of Perjia made a Bridge of Boats over that Mouth o\ tlie IJhr called Ljlium Sacrum. Nicepkorus relates, that Conjiant^ic buik a Stone Bridge over it. But the moll remarkable and admirable Br:dge, was that, built by the Emperor Adrian^ and delcribed by Divn the Hi- ftorian ; wheieof there are ftilJ lome Raines, wox. tar from Scvenn^ a-
13 1 bou?
■r
1*
-Tr
m
The General Defcription cf Hungary.
! ' '1
)•■.
bout twenty Hungarian Miles from Belgrade. This Bridge con lifted of twenty Piles of fquare Stone of an hundred foot high, befiJcs the Foundation : of fixty foot in breadth, and the diflance between each of fhcm one hundred and fcventy footj and conjoyned by Arches upon the which was this Infcription, '
PROVIDENTIA AUG. VERE PONXrFIClS VIRTUS ROMAN A
QUID NON DOMAT.> SUB JUGUM ECCE RAPITUR ET DANUBIUS.
And, 35 a Memorial hereof , many Roman QQ\m were ftamped, and fome in Silver, not yet rare among us, with this Infcription, D A M U- VIUS. r , - o
No River affbrdcs fo large and peopled Iflands- Between Vkegrad and Facia, there is a fair and large Ifland, called St. AnJreivs I/land. Another a little below Buda, againft the Weft fide of w hich ftand? Adorn, extending forty Miles ; and exceeds that of the ijle of Man^ containing many Villages in it; ujxjn jxirt whereof the Turkifr. For- ces encamped, when they came to raile the Cbrillian Siege at B^^dJ^^ and was the great omiftion and error of the Chriftians, that they for- tified not in that Ifland. Another againft Mohatch : another about the entrance of the Dravus : and a new one hard by Belgrade, made by the fettling of the Silt or Oiife brought down by the Savui and the Danuie ; where thirty five years ago there was no face of an Ifland but is now full of Trees ,• how this may advantage or difadvantage Belgrade, future times may fhew. But the Turk! are fo fecure and fearlefs of any Forces, that may ever hurt them in thcfe Parts, thac they have no confideration of fuch thing?. And allowing the River Leyta to be the boundary of Auliria, the Ifland of Schut, or Infula Ci- tuoruw, will prove moft confiderablc of any ; containing many good Towns, as Comaray Samarien ; befides very many Villages. And paf- fmg through it, I found it well peopled and ordered againft Incurfi- ons; wherein there have been divers, formerly made by Turks, Tar- tars, and rebellious Forces.
No River whatfoever, fo far from its difcharge into the Sea, af- fordes more Naval Veflels of ftrength and fufficiency forFight ; nor hath any afforded the like fignal Engagements and Encounters, at this di- ftance from the Sea. The Emperor hath fome Veflels of War handfom- ly built, like Gallies at Vienna, presiurg and Cornora ; and an Arfenal for provifion of many upon occafion. The Turk at Strigonmm, Buda Belgrade, and other places below. *
At the Siege o'i Belgrade, Mahomet the great brought two hundred Ships and Gallies, well appointed, up the Stream. And the Han'i^arians THr{:ijh H.iitry. (ent fo many down the Stream, from Bnda, that after a Iharp encoun- ter, they took twenty of the Turkrjh Vefl'els, and forced the reft on Shoar near the Camp ; fo that, to prevent failing into the Enemies hand, Mahomet was fain to caule them to be fet on'fire. The Ckrifti. nrtin, u-a ""^ ^^^ ^ S^at Fleet at the Siege of Buda, when all mifcarricd under ^^^"^^ Count RegeHfdorf. For the Hiftory delivers, that the ChnfltaH Fleet confifted of tour and twenty Galliots, about fourfcore fmail Pinnaces, and little lels than an hundred Ships of Burthen, and other great Boats'
By
The Gemral Defcnpion of Hungarv\
I
By the help of fuch Naval Vefl'els Wolfgandus Hodder did a good piece ot Service, when Solyman befieged Ftevm ; for he came out of Freshnrg with armed Veffels, and funk tte Vefltls fenc troai Buda witft the great Ordnance, to batter the Walls o^ Vienna.
And as this Country aboundcih in Rivers, fo is it not without fsme irotabie Lake-,-, as the Lake Balaton ot Plaffee,m Volcata of old, cxtend- m a great length between Vefpnmum and t\\^Drav'*s, with fome itrong i-orrs upon it This Lalce put a ftop unco the cruelty of Saly- ^^>.' s .bouldiers , who deffroyed all from iB/.^^ unto the Lake EaUton And fince it lyeth on tlie Eaft r,f the Rivtr lesta, uo may alfo .-eckon in the Newfidler Sea, a pleafant Lake; feven (senxany^ts Jong, and three broad: fo called from Ncnvhdel, a imall Town, of one ftreet and fome backward Houles, with a Imall Iquare Caftle upon an Hill by it, from whence I had a good profpedt o- ver all tlic Lake. In the Commotions of Eotjcay, tourteen Villages a- bouc this Lake were burnt by Turks, Tart at s and rebellious JTtyducks. ihe H!i>igarKim call it Terteu ami Pliny, Pafo. It vs in the middle way between F,er.7,a and Sahana, the birth-pkce cf Saint M;m« The ,onc^ extended plain of Pamp^, in Paraguay in America, exceeds ail otier^, as being two tho ifand Miles in length. And I have heard that famous Navigator, Captain Narhorough, fav, who not long fince, was Commander of the Stveepjiakes , and made a Vovage in her into t;ie So.i:h-Sea, that there is all low Land from the River oi Plate unto the middle of the Straights of Magellan. Mofcovia and PoLndhzVQ long Plains, but many of them Woody, and obfcured bv Trees • but none more open and clear Plains than this Country. 'The greatelt Plains I have obierved in England, arc thole of Salishurv, Lincoln and New-Market. But thefe are but long Walks, compared with thole of ^ri?fg :ry. and are exceeded by the Plains oi Aujina, from Fiema unto Mount Smmeren, unto the Borders of Styria. And though the Vpper- Hungary be hilly and plentiful in Wood ; yet arc there large Plains below. I travelled trom Fienna to Belgrade , about four hundred Miles, upon continued and not interrupted Plains ,- which often app ared like the Sea, without any vifible Eminencics, only a fliort and plain Wood, h^ Bacna, and Shtlherg, beyond Dotn ; and if we reckon the full of this Plain, It will prove much longer, extending from Mount /Wf>?W or Cettas, two German Miles Well-vi^rd of Vienna, and fo beyond Bet gra-fe, ftill afong the North fide o^ the Dannie, unto the Borders of
«?M'"'r ' ' ^^'^''^''' ^^^^' "^^^^ ^ '^''S'^'" ^^"^^"^ ' ^^^^" the famous fons Wilk from Agra^ to Labor in India. This plainnels of the Country
affords an handlome way of Travelling in open Clwriots, carrying one or two Men with a Chanoter, drawn by two or three, fometimes four Horfes a Breaft ; and room enough to lye down. In this man- ner I trav elled from Buda to Belgrade, "over fair large Plains ; and ma- ny Miles upon Grecn-Swarthe and unworn Waves ; efpecially in the County r^ Sirmium or Schremnia as they now call it.
No Country hath \o large a Ihare of Capital Cities upon the Da- nube; for whereas From tliecourfe thereof, from 7jlme unto Belgrade, there are reckoned Ten very confiderablc one,s,there are no lefsthun four thereof, that is I'reslurg, Stn^onium, Buda and Belgrade accounted unto Hungary ; and Buda, with the addition o( Te/l, on tlie otlierfide the Water, fecms to be the largcft of them all ; and I believe the lar- gelj alio of any upon that Stream.
And
f
i •
The General Defer ipicn c/ Hungary.
The General Dejcriftion cf Hungar^^
And .T. this Country excels in Rivers, fo is it very abundant in /■,'lhes. 1 he 'filifcus or Ttife, is cHccmcd the moft Filhy River in Europe, if not in tlie World ; infcmuch, that they have a common lay- iri;^, That It ci:>ifijls of tiio parts cfHutcr, and one of Filb. And the Kuxr Rcelr.uk which runs into the fihtfcus, not far from Tokay^ is fo re- pitniihtd wit.h ///^that in the Summer u hen the River is low,the Peo- ple fay the Water fmellsof Filh. And this is no fmall River, but as 1 had tijc account from a Commander who purpofely made it for me when he pafled it , was thirty Fathoms broad, and % X tight and an halt deep, but being'of this Figure it could \/^ not be w'jil lilhed with Nets. Which exceeding tertilicy, if any will afcribe untJ Saline Tmdures, both of its own Stream, and others acccliionary into it, which lick the ir.any natural Salt-Mines un- der groutid, and fo may carry with them, or at leaft promote fome Principles of fuecua Jity, may admit of confideration. The Danuls aboundcth in many good Filhes; as Trout s, Ferches, larg^ and delici- ous C.^r'^es, exceeding any I have feen ; and befides many others, a Fiih called 'C'pp^n, a kind of Capita ; a Btfcur^.e, or kind ot Lamprey , a (jrundtL. or l|X)tted kind oiCoLitis, v\ith fix Beards, two ihort, and tour ionj^'-r ; a large i lili much exceeding a Fike, called ScbeyJeny a :ijiitri^.s Qtfnen: and above all, there is at fome Seafons great ftore of Flufncs, called by them H.iuj.ns: whereof fome are twenty toot long; eftecmed a very good diili, and fomewhat like Stnrgeon. There are let FiJlung-placts and Store-houfes upon tlie fide of the Danuhe ; where- 01 the iiighcft is above C>jmo a, upon Schut-IpH^y but the greatefl: Fiihing is'about Ftlia in ^'alachia ; where they fait them, and fend them mto other Parts : they come out of the Euytine Sea. " As the Rivers are full of Fiili, fo are they covered with Foal, in the Vl^inter ; Swans I obfe. ved none in the Danuh, but many other Fowls ;. an J fome Pelicans, not far from Belirade.
As the Waters are alfotruitful in Filh. fo the Land aboundeth m o- ther Frovifions ; and very eminently in the two fupporters of Life, Bread and H 'mi : their Bread is hardly exceeded by any in Europe ; worked up and kneaded with long continued labour ; and fo made li^^lu w holfome, and viell tailed ; and at fo cheap a rate, that for two pence as much is atTorded there, as twelve pence with us in England. And indeed in all the Turkijh Dominions, where I travelled, I met with fo "ood and well tafted Bread, tlut with Wine, it was a Feaft ; and Willi Water a fufficicnt Repaa. Craves they have very dehcious and large ; thofc at r^rouiditz by ^actj, are of eminent Note; IVines alfo of a generous and noble fort; the Wines of Tokay arc highly efteem- cd ; the Sirmian Wines are very rich and pleafant, in the South part of ^Hungary , in w hich Province the Emperor Frohus is faid to have planted Vines, about Mount Almus or Arpataro. In many other pla- ces the Wines are very noble; and fome brov^ht unto /'if»»j, whtre there are above thirty forts oi Wines to be fold, brought from feveral
^arts. , ^ , . . „, r \
And as the ground is not unfruitful in its own Nature, lo tliey are
not svithout the pracailc o\ Qocd- Husbandry, both in their Arable and P fture Grounds : cfpecially in Vpfer-Flungary, and Parts not fubjc- dted to the Turks. I K'ing there, about the end oi February, faw eve- ry night all the Country about us on fire, occafioncd, by burning the Stubble and Grafs and Herbs ; which alterwards, arofc with plenty again. '^'^/'^
.1
;; M
\:
St£p€ etumjlenleu zncendere profuit agros^
At que levem Jl/pulam crepitant ihus urere fiammis.
To fct their Fields on fire, and Stubble burn With crackhng Flames, does to their profit turn.
Thev ufe not Barnes or Stackes of Corn ; but have many deep and large Gives under Gr<:)und, wherein they lay it up fafe, both from Rob- Lcrs ani fudden incurfion ot Enemies. At C/efch near Toopclchan, \\ hen the Turks and Tartars made their Inroads m the tail Wars, the People retired, and hid themlelves in fuch Cavities; but fome Turks^ Ipeakin^ Schlavoman^ told tliem that the Coafl u as clear, and the Ene- my gone I and fo tempting them cut of their Holes, they were unfor- tunately deceived into Captivity, and earned a^^'ay into remote Coun- trevs. ne'er to be heard of again.
There is alfo great plenty ot' Decr^ Hares^ all forts olVoultrey^ Tar* irufges diV.d Pf:ejjar?ts ; great (lore of Shetp^ which in divers places, h.nelon<;. Spiral Horns, and very long curled WoolL And Oxen in g-'jut nunVers, whereof 'tis thought they fend an hundred thouiand } early in:o Italy, (jcrmany^ and other Parts ; and it is commonly faid, they have enough to ferve a great part of Europe. They are of a kind di MvtiJ€'\:olour ; and the Eajicm C wpany at Fienna hath the privilege to bring them, to lurmlh that City. There are alfo B^jfelo's where- of they make no fmall advantage, in ploughing of their Lands, efpc- cially in fomic fnti Grounds, where they muft elle ufe five Yoaks of Oxen to a Plough ; and one in my company told me that he had been fain to make ule of fix Buffelos to draw a light Calleche^ or Chariot through fome Grounds. Not far from Botefech^ there are //br/i?x alfo in very great number, fome large, many but fm.all, yet fwiit. I faw a thouiand of them bel®nging to the Peafants at Soney Sene or Senu^ a Village upon the D-^nuhe^ in the Contribution Country, nor far from Comara.
As they exceed in many things, fo they are peculiar in fome ethers ; particularly in their Lang^age^ which is prcper to thcmfelves, and dif- ferent from any other. I v\ cnt to a Church at Bitchka^ w here the Mtnifter Prayed and Preached ; and though there were a \'ery good Linguill with nie, who fpake ScHarcn/an^ German^ Turki/h^ f^-^ul^ar Greek and Italian ; yet could he make nothing ot it, or find affinity in it, with any other Language he knew. A Specimen hereof is let dou n by I^L^gijerus^ of the Lords Prayer^ in thac Language. Mi At- t\af?ck Ay vagj az meniegle^ m gh Szentel Tejjeck az te neived. &c. la the like manner we were confounded by the Language of Aib.iHia^ o\\ the \orthv\ard part of £/?/>«!, and Well of Macedonia, We made ufe of fome of that Countrey in palling the Mountains, who uere able to fpeak fome Scklaz-cman: But as for Alhaneje^ or their own Language, w herein they were delighted to fing Day and Night, as they travellcxl with usjOur bed Linguill:s,both Turks and C/T////j//j,undern:ood nothing of it.
In fome parts of Huniary, many fpeak Schlavonian, at Freiflat^ which the Hungdnans call Colgotz. I obierved, that at the Church, the Ser- mon was in ScUazonian ; but at the Franc/jeans Church, in Flur^^anan. This incomm.unication in Speech, makes them to learn other Langua- ges,
-■y
▼
8
J he General Defcription 0/ Hungary.
g;s and flpcciall} the Z.///;/, uhicli verv great nur.bcrs fpeak efpcci ally the (jcyitry and SnuU/ers. znd 1 Tcarce met v^'itii any tlitu here who fpakcitmnre ready ,tlian the Nobfc GniffSacchy.Qovcxnom i^i Doth and Ills Lieutenant Ehe^fy. I have al/o met u ith Coachmen, Watermen inL\ mean I'eifons, who could make themfclves underllond thereby ' '
1 he Latm-Jo^gw i. very fcrviceable in I/nm^^ina and //v; /A/^ mi 7 • Lutbclr.w AV/.r.,.y,' otlKtle help untoa Travelkr,wlicrc that far extendi ing Lingunge,thc^.-/A;-..<7>;A;« prevails. Anc! indeed,^ !;h thehch) oft'vvo Languages, 6Vy-wjA? and A7.'/ji'o«/ J V, a Man may make a ihift'to Tri vel trom /A,«;/^;;,. to the Boders of T.rt.uy, and to Confla»u>:opie. And I have heaid that tlic SchLivcnun alone is iinderftood from Mark- elberg in Germany to the Cafpian Sea. And before wc come to Behr i^e the ^rM7^m^« enters again, • which is allb fpokcn in Servu, sXarn homania, and a great part of .^/.rW.^Az; and in fo many otlier Coun- tr)s that with this Language a Man may make a fhift to be under- flood fromtlic Adnatick-Sbore of Dalmatia, unto th.^TartarumOcean 1-or wc read m /Vrr/v;;, that when the HolLxnrlcr^ returned from Nr-'t ZetnLLi ■ the fnliabitants not very far off could liv, Dohe and N^ich i^r'^Af ; that IS, OW, and not Co.rrf'; which arc cxprcflions of tfi)^;-,-... ing or diUpprof wr, in the Sdla-ccmM Language.
The 7/./-X7y;. Power fo much prevailing or threatning in thcfe Parts • It IS in vain, to expedt any great Tjnrjerfity bc\ond / len^i:,. \or do [ hnd that there hath been any very confiderabfe ones in this Countrev - and tiougli they have had many Bijhops and learned Men • yet' thev
of old tf ''y" ^^""^5 1 " r?^°>' °^" ?T «^t «f' ^-S"7- As had al!b
addict thcnifelves unto Learning, cfpecially thofe of Quality do com- monly Study at Vienm, Prague or Brejlaw ; a linall Univerlitv, or cub- liCK Study there is at prcfent at SchernHkz. '
But tlie Hungarum may julHy boaft of earlv helps unto learning and a very noble Library ereded at Buda, by their King Matthi u cX I'lms Son ot the famous Hunmadcs, about two hundred years a-o • confilbng of lome thoufands of Books, efptciallv (Ircek ?nd Latiy," Va' nufcnpts, not to be met uith or Purchaled eldwhere ,• part whereof was dilperfcd into the Turktlh Dommions, when ^*/y«*d« iurprize i that City,- and a choice part thereof procured afterwards, for the Impend Library ^t l^ienna, when Cufpinianm was Keeper thereof, divers \vhere ot are marked with the ArmesofO/-x./>//«, a Crow Learm^a Gold R'„r tn his Beak; whicii with many (licceeding additions, made by Bii^'it 9UIUS, tfolfga^gta, Laziiis, Fngger, and '.thers; together uith the choicefl Mamjaipts, brought from the Amlraft.m Library near Injprucb , by the Learned Petrus Lamlecius, the prcfent Library Keeper, make up the fourfcore thoufand Volumes, now contained m the Emperors Lihrav^ at rhnna, by the efpecial Favour of which wo-- thy Perlon, I had the honour, not only to fee minv of the choiccll and mofl fpccious thereof, together w ith many Noble Rarities in that I'iace but to have any uletul Book unto my private Lodgings ^vi\ at m>' comirg away, he gave me a Catalogue of fome hundreds of dl- chym calMamJinprs, which are in that Library, which I prcfentcd to the Royal Society, from him ; with leave to have any of them brouc^lir into £«^/^W, or to be Tranlcribed at rienyia, if they pleafed. And if the tr.ree molt admirable Brajs Statua's of Hercules, Apollo and Diana wluch were placed at the entrance of Cor-ji„us his Palace in Eurh,
hJ
The General Deft nption of Hungary,
i I
had not been carried away by Solyma^i^ and cafl into Urdnance ar Cok- fiantinople ; it is not improbable, they had been b}' this time at I'lenna. About four hundred Books, the Rcliqucs and ret'ufe of the Library at BuJj^wtro, latel}' remaining there; where it was no eafie matter to have a fight of them ; yet fo careleHy kept by the Turks^ that Worms, Mice and Rats w ere like to have the Spoil thereof But the fire at Bkd^ \66(). hath now confumxd them all.
And as their Language is peculiar, fo is the Opinion of their Crow n ; of which they have tiie greatcH eileem of any other Nation. This they commonly belicv e to have been brouglu by an Angel from Hea- ven unto Sc. Stephen^ their King ; and have lb high an cftimation there- of, that they think, the Right and Fate of the Kingdom gt^cth witli the pcllelfion thereof Which makes them very wary in tlic CuiloJy of it, and in all Adverfities to fecure it. And the Turk iiati) been al- ways induflriou.s to obtain it. It was formerly kept in tlie Caftle of yice%rul\ but at prefent in that of /'r^iT^^r^.
And this opinion is probably founded upon tlie Tradition or Story, ^:^^-^-^ '-^ how they came unto it; w hich is thus delivered. King Steplx^n inten- '''^^^^^* ding tc fettle the Chriflian Governmicnt in his Kingdom, appointed tw'o Arch-Eifrops Sees ; Strigomum^ which was the place of his Nativity, and Colocza ; and fent ^Jincus^]S\^'\o^ ot Cokxzj^ to the Pope,to confirm the (arne, together with his Kingdom, and to lend himaCrou'n, and other Royal Ornaments. At the fame time it fell out, that Mijcj^ King of PoUntJiy ient about the lame Errant : and a Crown wis providing for him. But Pope Benedid the Eight, in the mean tim^e u as warned Ly an Angelical Apparition^ to fend the Crow n unto King Stephen ; \\hich accordingly he did, which probably begot that great Venerati- on and high Opinion, they ha va ever fince had of it.
The Crou n it felt" is allb fingUlar in its Falhion and Figure ; for it is a low Crown, with a Crofs upon it, with tour Leaves or Turnings up about it; one whereof is as large as the othc three, at leail as two thereof It is no ealle Favour to obtain a view of thi.> Crou*n at Vres- lurg^ but I faw a Model of it in the Trealure of the prelcnt Emperor Leopoldus ; which was a Crow n of Gold, adorned with man} precious Stones, exad:iy made after the fa(hi.on of the Ilurigarun Crou n, and perhaps richer than the exemplar.
Though the Hungarians want not Ingenuity, Indullry, and fuificient parts for Learning, and liberal Arts ; yet have they been more addi(fted nnlo Martial affairs^ than unto deep Learning : Even the Bijkops and Clergy-men proving ftout Soldiers ; andnolefs than fix Bilhops wqxc llain, with their King Lndovicus, in that fatal Battel oi Mohatcb,
Some report, and others believe , that the lamous Poet, Oxi^/died, and w as buried in Hungary at Saharui^ feated at the confluence ot the Rivers Gnntz and Regnitz before they run into the Rak Where it is reported, that he having been baniflied unto Tomoj^ near the Eaxinc Seay was at lail recalled, and in his return towards Italy died at Sala^ia. Where 'tis laid his Tomb w as found with this Epitaph , made by himlelt' ;
IIic fitus efl rates^ qftem Divi Cxiaris Ira
Auguili pairid cedere jujiit humo, Siepc nnjcr ^^oluit patriis occumhere terris^ SeJ fni/lra , ii^fc iHi fata dedere locunu
C Before
:u: of
F 1
r
-1
10
The General Defcription of Hungan'.
Jomandcs,
Monfleur ds furred.
!l
r.
Before I came into ///w^t^rv, loblcrvcd no IhadovV or Ihew of the old Pyrrhical Saltation, or Warlike way of Dancing , which thc//i^v- flucks pradlice in this Country. They dance with naked Svvords in their hands, advancing, brandilhing and claihing the lame; turning, winding,tlevating, anddeprclling tiitir bodies with ftrong and active motions ; fmgmg withal unto thcir meafurts, atcer the manner oi tiie Greeks.
The mighty A^ts of Attila , King of this Country , together with
the numerous Forces he brought (jut oi: thele and the neighbouring
parts, are very remarkable j whereby he over-ran a confiderablc: pare
o^Germafiy^ and a great part ot /^j/y ; Sicked and Burnt AqmULx-:,
and fought that memorable Battel with ^V/^a, the A'^/wj;i General, in
Campis Catalonku^ near Tholouje ; wherein 'tis (aid were ten Kin;i^s pre-
fenr, and about two hundred thoufand lliin : and , which is alio cb-
fervablc, the Generals on both fides were of thefe Parts; tor AttiU
WdiSz Hiome ^ and ^Etnus a Miefian ^ ox Servian, of the neighbour
Country. And in fuccceding Ages, how far and widely the Kings of
Hu>igary enlarged their Dominions, befidcs many Hiftorica] Accounts,
is teitified at their Coronation , by ten Banners carried by Great Per-
fcns ; wherein were reprefented ten Provinces of that Kingdom : that
is, Hunyxria, Dalmatia^ Creat/a , Schlavonia^ Qalijta , Rajcu^ Servia^
Bulgaria^ Bofnia^ ap.dLu^omir/a.
This Country has given the longefl (top unto the Turkijl Conqucfls, and farther intrufion into the VVeftern Parts of Europe. Fur mull, which they have already obtained, has been upon the advantage ot the Hungarian Divifions, and their own lubtilty and faifc pradifes ; and Solyman, by fuchfalfe and low dealings, furprized the Capital City of Eiida. And although the Turk ha55»w obtained the belt part of the Country- yet almolt a third part remains out of his Power, and in obedience to the Emperor, as King of Hungaria : as almoft all Vpper Hungary, {rom Preslarg unto Tokay, and Zjtmjr, And there arc yet out of their hands the three notableft Bulwarks of Chnjlendcm ; Rafj^ /{omara^ and Leopolr/jlar/t ; all which I had tlie advantage to lee. Thi-i lart has been eredted fince the lofsof Newkeufe/I ; and made mucJi after tlx fame manner ; confifting of Six regular Bajtions revejlues. It is feared on the Well fide of the River IVaag, over agiinlf Fre^jLidt , noc far from the place where the Tartars palled over in rhclalt War. and deftroyeda great part of the Country, and carried away inmy Cap- tives from thofc Parts, and out o^ Moravia, This Fortification was be- gun in the year 1665-, and was well advanced , but not Funlhed whcri Iwastherc, 1669. Count Soaches the younger was then Governor thereof; from whom I received great Civihty in tliat place; and a Guard of Foot Soldiers,to convoy me through the Contribution Coun- try, x.o^'avds Scheninitz.iCremnitz, and the other Mine-Towns.
Many Roman Emperors have honoured thefe Quarters with their Pre- fence, Birth, Death, or great Actions. For (toomit7>JM«, Caraca/Ia, GalienuSy Conjlantius^ and many more) the Emperors Aurelianus^Prohs^ GratianuSy Maximianus, had their Nativities at Sirmium ; and Claud iiis Cothicia died in it, or near it. Jov/anus, and rJentinianus wxtc Bom in Pannonia, hge^fuus^ Governor ot Fannoma, was <aluted En^pcror by the M(sJian\x^\ons. Vetranio likewife, in the fame Country. And at Sirmium wai held a General Council^ when Phot mm w.as Bilhop of that place The
■ s
Ihe Cienerd Defcriptio?i cjf Hungarr.
i he /^...^^ Armies being much in rhis Country, no wonder it is that (0 m.ny Co>.s oi Copper, GoU, and Stiver a e to be tound in i W hereof I oLtauiedno imaJl number at /W.«.//. or Old c.".,?.,
Bu^a.or Su^^lna , at Old S^mnum m thcCountry.now railed 6V/ri, nu, at M.ra, orfj/^c^, and many other Parts. An ^.^'1. Me chanr ,r .h.le Houl. Il.dgcd at i.W,.../., undertook to pr<;de me vvuhA....«Ccnns.iga.r.ll my return: which he m.ght welldo abdc thoie Rirts. as at ^:r..u>., S.nanJna, and other places. And not ta from th ncc Z.v//«w/'.a, Kingof Macerlon and Vr^ce ,s conceive /, have k.pt his abode, at a C.llle or Palace near D?.. •' Xe 1 a un ^ral eld mal.so^C./. .JW.A- was tound, as. part.cuiady d h^ rX Monfieur /■.;>,... m h s Account of the Wars ot' /W;./ ^^
N Mr tne Town ot D.v i or Diva^, was found great Itor'e of T.eaf.r^ by the Pcafants ot the Country, under an Ancient Ca leo Palace f runed and decayed, li.e Ram conrmuing a Jong t,me and t e U , terrunn-.n^wuliatorcble current, thert was diSemJ an infin.t; compiny .AQcU.n Mcdah : upon one fide ot wlXwas Coined r' Image- ot LMimachu^, on the orher f.de a Victory everTon. v e 1 two „rthr.e Crowns The Scorm and rage o? .Va ^bein . a ° ^3 tneS.n ihi.ing on thefe made a marvellous glittering- wh ner ceivcd by t.cPea ints . they remained raviihed « ith jo;. ^nd ta'.^n ' them up. they alio tound a Golden Serpera : which atrervUn ?'^n " racy.,/./, lent unto WW, with a^part cfSc An e"t ^1^^^^^ ^,'iV,f:'^S an ancient Cuitomuith thole who buried their Tet^rl
Lf T'Y'X ' ''' '*? '°'''" "■' "" ^'^^^^''"1 ^-^F^r. Alter tlie Vcl fants had taken, no man knew M-hat . others toi i trom thence more thanT.venty thoufand Avc.r.. -^nd the report was, - bar tlev m^.l r have ra.cn an hundred Thoufand. For that had (omet.me been rhe
Calh.i: three hundred. WhicJi Com remained m th^ place from Lvimad'u^ s time. Among other notable Antiquities therr u tound two Ale.U of G.,V/. the one of i^/.f^ Kher o^
In tie Old Rcma^t Towns, through which [ naffed fh.. d,^ i upon n.tice given, would bring ufat Coins the^ad al^d 'bi them //ea.^lje..>nn>,eY. Im the Countries of S^rv/z ind « J
fr.r,.„, ,nd 7:.ii.make Colktlions , and VnTtlemfo i' '?' trom whence the greatelf part is carried into /r./v Zfl no '^^^ one C.ppcr Com ot the Emperor ^uUus FmL whfch .'"''^ comrr^on in th.f. Pairs, and \ery rare in ot£s •' it h t \T1?
nnr,Muaum was a Ron„„ Colony in Mrli, Superiour now sV. -S and conceived tube ..;,,V._, or .'.....1 u on die ^.^r
C z
at
I I
^
I 2
J he General Vefcription 0/ Hungary.
\S
at the entrance or the River Mofchhi or Morava ; by the Lyon and tiie Bit//, might be declared the ^i^W^d/i of the Soil, fit for Agricul- ture, and the ra/our and Courage of the People; and by thofe fierce Animals fitting fo quietly together, that, by the Prudence cf Pk't- lippii^, AirkultHre went on, and none found oppofition from the Lyon, or torce ofother*^-
Ari}ioHaS€ptifm da'a ; The Seventh time of the diftribiition of Corfi under FLilippus. The Legio decima fexta frumentjria , >A'hich was quartered in that place, having the Charge of the conduttiptg thereof; as the Learned TrijUn has conjeftured.
'1
p^^
#=
&
*sn^^
'S,^-'
.f^.'M-^
lV:
*
iK
,-Jk'
b^^
.V J-
w,
"v. :'
This is the Habit of an Hungarian , which is found to be fo fit and convenient for all Ibrt of Excrcifc , efpeciallv on Horfc- back, and in War, that it is made ufe of alfo by the Croatians, Schiavonians , and other Nations , and by the Turks themfelves who live near the Frontiers ; although otherwifc they feldom change their own Habits. The fJimgarians delight moft in Co- lours, wearing Blew, Yeilow, Green^ and Purple Cloth ; and it is
rare
■*■
■«*<:
The General DefcriptiQ?! 0/ Hungary.
13
rare to fee any one in Black; the Pnefis themfelves b-'mg liabited in long Purple Garm.nts. The ILunj^amr/fs ulually carry in their hands, a Club, or Iron Mace, ot wnich they have two forts, a Cat- jhan ^ and a Delta, or Balta as chey pronounce it. The Qatjlan iiaih a globular Iion head with furrows in it, and fp ices cut away to render it more Lghr, and tafie to be handled : this is cxprcfTed in the hgure of i\\\: Hmzaruv^ Habit: the D /rj hath 1 head Ibme- u!at like a Himnicr, but broader, and at the end maki^s the Ihupe ot chat Letter.
'4
iM.
A
JOURNEY
FROM
Vienna in Aufiria
T o
Larifla in Theflalia.
HAVING paffed the Winter in the Imperial City of riENN^^ I rook a Journey into f/ungary , to view the Copper , Siher , and Go/e/ Nfines in thoVe Parts. And not long after, although I had already had a fair fight ot /ralyj made a Journey unto VENICE, palling til! ough A'iJiru,Sryria, Cannthia, Carniola, and //■/»/?> and foon alter my return to /'/ew^, I met with an opportunity, vihich earned me unto the Ottoman Court, whtch then , and a long time be fore, rcfidcd at the famous Old City ot'LAR/SSA in r/r/j/v Yo-I are not toexped tiic Names of all Places, which I pafled ; y"et divers you will find mentioned, which are not to be found in Mapps • except you have lome more exadt, than any I have met w ith. '
Between rienna and FresUrq^, above the confluence of the River Mjrck with xXvi D:ivuhe , I could not but take notice of the Town o^' /V/rc«f//,and Hayrnhm-g Hill and Callle. Fe tram II is conceived to have been Old Cirmutum , a itrong Hold of the Panmmam , in vain at- t mpted by the Rotr.ans,2.VL Hundred and feventy years before the Incar- ratiun ; but was afterwards fubdued, in the time of ^«^;</?«/, made a Roman Colony ; and the Station of the Legio decima quart j. gemm^ and the Cbli:s IJincx- and in procefs of rime fo enlarged, that it be' came the chiet City of Panno^ta Super;or , and comprehended that trad on the South Bank of the Damhe, wherein now Hand Haymhur<i Dutch A'tenlurg, aad St. PetronelJ. '^'
I had been lormerly at Petrcnell^ to inform my felf in the noble Ruincsand Antiquities thereof; where I met with variety ol M'-dah Inlcr/prhy,<, remainders of a noble Aquu.'rlu.i , and the R-mains of a goodiy Fabrick. which I thou^^iir rPiy,ht be the luine of a Te-nple oiJjKUf, but It IS conceived to have been a Triumphal Arch, tnd^d m Memory ot a gre.it Viito.y ovtr the rjn^„.'nij>M , and Dalmjti'f,, by lib r/:,s, in the Ni nh year o\' our Lord. My noble triend, Petrr/s Lamiccius, Imh kt lorth thetigu-eoi one fide thereof (in theWond
pirt
»3
The General Defcrip ion of Hurlgary.
part ot his Defcnption of the Imperial Lihrary;) and of the back part I took a Draught my lelK This, and other Carmnti>,e Antiquities may be fecn in the fame Author ; and more may be expeded ^vhen that Worthy Perfon ihall pleafe to Publi^ his Carnmitum r^"-
In thib place, the Emperor Antoninus Philofophus , in order to his Wirs with the Marcowann/^ now Moruvuns, refided the (pace of Three years, and died at FinMona . now P^isnna : and here Severus was elcftcd Emperor by the German Legions. Bur this Noble and Ancient City was ruined, in atter-timcs, by AttiU the Hunne, in his Tncur- lions into theie Parts : Yet there are llill remaining many marks of Its Ancient Grcatnels. And though Grals now grows where Old ^rymntum^ooA', yet by an oblervmg Eye, the Foundations of their Houies, and their Streets arc ftiU diicoverable : and fuch great quan- tities ot RomanQom^ have been of a long time , and are iiill found there, that the Boors are commonly well furnilhed with them ; of whom I purchafed a great number: and Mr. Done/Ian, an Ir/jh Gen- tleman, who tien travelled with mc, and w as walking in my Coi-?^^
pan^^
15
-^4
i6
The General Defcriptio7i c/ Hungary.
pany, viewing thefe Old Remains of former Grcatnefs, by chance itrooli with his foot a Silver Coin ou: of the Earth.
Preslurgy Pojoviuntf Pijcmnmy and by lome thought to be plesum, is a plcafant City featcd on the North fide of the Danube^ ten German miles Eaftward from Fien^a , the chit f City of Ilyingana. in the Jn'fe- ferial Dominions thereof ; fince the lofs of £«r/j, the place of Coovai- lion for the EJlates ; and fmce the lois ot Strigonium , the M^tropoli* tanCity. The C/Zy is plealiint • the Ctf/?/<? is llately , Leautiful, and well fituatcd on the top of a Hill, and built of White Stone; herein is kept the fo highly eftecmed Crown of Hungary^ commonly believed to have been brought by an Angel from Heaven, unto St. Stephen their King-, and is of a different figure from other Crovvn*^* The Garden of the yirci-j5//^e?/> is very fair ; xSxtW^lks ^ the Grottos^ the figure of Jeronimo^ the Lalirynthj Fijh'pcnds^ and Fountains are Noble. In the Dome^ or Cathedral Church , lieth the Body of St- 'Johannes Eleemofyna- rius^ Bilhop of Alexandria. The Jefuirshivcz part of the fame Church, and a noble Apothecaries Shop, lull of Rarities. The Lutherans have alfo a iair Church here.
Raif ovjairinum, a City featcd at the confluence of the Rivers Ra^^
Ralnitz^ ^ndiht Danube : and a ftrong I rentier Bulwark againlt the
Turk. It hath two 5/-/^/^^^, one over a double Ditch, Iead;ng towards
tAuffria; and another towards Alha Regalis , qv S:ulIiveiJJenlurg. It
hath fcvcn large £*j/?/<?»j, and four C^x-j/Z/^ri-, or high Mounts, which
over-look them. The firll is the Caftlc Bajlivn, upon which flands
theCaftle or Palace of the Governour. The fecond is the Water Ba-
fiion, lying towards the Danube. The third is the Baftion of the ho/y
//;//, under which when the Turks fprang a Mine , a Horfeman was
blown ofFfrom the top of it into the Danube, without any hurt to him-
feli'or his Horfe, The fourth is the middle Baltion, towards the Land
Eartward. The fifth is the new Baflion. The fixth is the Imperial, or
Emprefs Baftion, And the feventh is the Hungarian Baftion, lyirgnexc
the River Sab^ where the Turkijh Governor was killed when the I'own
was furprifed in the Night by the Chriflians. The Country is all plain
about, and there is nothing which feems to command it, but a Imall
Hill at fome diftance, which is undermined, and may be blow n up
upon any occafion ; beyond which there is alfo a Tow er or Spy in the
open Fields, to difcover the approach of the Enemy. It was Befiegcd
by Sinan Bajfa, in the Reign oi^ Sultan Amurab the Third ; where he
loll many Men, and atontafiault Twelve thouGnd ; but at lafl was
Surrcndred , by the Treachery of Count Hardeck , the Governor ;
which coft him his Head at Vienna ; where, upon a Scaffold covered
with black Velvet, kneeling by the fide of a Table covered with a
black Velvet Carpet, he laid his Hand upon the Table, and the Execu-
tinners at the fame inftant ftruck off both bis Head and his Hand. In
a few years after, it Was recovered , by a notable furprife, a£ted by
Count Svoartzenlurg , and Count Fj^, with a great flaughter of the
Turks. I faw 3 part of the Gate, which was then broken by a Petard^
the fame being ftill kept for a Memorial, in a part of the Cathedral
Church. While this place was in the Turks Pofleffion , they made a
Dungeon forChriftianPrifoners, wherein there is no light, but what
enters by a Grate upon the ground in the Market-place. But this is
now feldom empty of 7Wr^j,begging the Charity ot Pal]crs-by,acd felling
neat Whips which they make in this their fad reftraint. He
A Journey from Vienna to Lariffa.
He that wouid take a view of warlike Engines and InftrumentTTT ." wt?! """ ^"^r ''^'^^"^'^"" ^"y ^'hcre: than at ^iand S,.
the W l' '"'-'; '''^^ ""-T^ ""^ °"^' ^^"'-^^ ^ ™°^"i"g Star, ufed by the .Sentinels, and at an alfauk, defence of a breach or entrance inm.
Town ; of earthen i ot,s to throw amon^ft the EnemierfilJecI w^h ft.ck.ng and Lurn.ng material.. There he mav alfo lee a Lehn Brad r or,.!cnk fct u.th liooks , to be placed on the out-fide of the wol' covered Lghtly ...th earth ; whereby thofe, who ftorm a e wounded a^dn angled. A werf Kugel, or inftrument filled with wild fire and
Lurnch. A Sj>a,nyjc/je Ritter or Ckevul dc Fnfe, to be laid in the jvay, to keep out the Horfc ; divers forts of Chain-fhot and the
General Montecuadi was the Governour of Raah, whofe Pafs I ha.l the advantage of ,n tl^ former year, to travel by thefe parts unto the . IVane^l owns The Emperour being wearied with Chiaufes and ord^^ nary Envoys, which fo often came to ^.«;;;.z from the Vifierof/jS and expedted prefcnts at their return ; hath taken order, that, wittout efpccal Licence, they ihall come no further than Raub\ but the e re ceivc th.-ir difpaiches. ^^'
I'^owora Gomora, Crumenum or Comaromum, a large and f^ron^r Tnu;r. at the Eall-end of the Ifland of .V/.., looking o^er the SiT^and f ..^ftrongly fortified, and well mann'd. Colonel A^#W.' wal then Governour: the Ibongeft place is the torto.fe Fort ; fo cal ed from fome refemb lance It hath to a /-...../.. This To4n. aft'er the linc^Tf /?..^ was befieged by S^nan Bajfa^ with fixty Ships, and a great num. ber of Turh and Tartars ; but in vain, and to the great flaughter of the nn.rs Although the Baffa omitted nothing towards the gamine it but employed treachery as well as force, and under colour of a Parley font five nrh to the Governour,Baron Bro^v.,^^ho had then received a great wound upon his right Knee, to try if he could by any means be wrcxight upon to deliver up the City. And the Governour gave them the hearing, till they had declared their whole treachery ; but then ore lently commanded four of their Heads to be ftruck off, and to be fet upon long Pikes upon one of the Bulwarks, for the B.fa to look upon • and font the t ifth back to the Baf. to tell him that although he found one in H.l to ferve his turn he was much deceived, if in him he thought to find Count Hardeck, and to allure him that he would never betrav a City committed to his charge, but rather wifhed to dye the Emoe- rors true anu faitliful Servant irabrewed in the Blood of the Turks
In the inward Caftle I obforved three old Tombs, which had been formerly brought thither from Sene or 5.«.., a place of Antiquity, no" tarr off. Some in the Caftle obforving me to write out their InforiD- tions, were very inquifitive, and obliged me to leave a copy of them in the CalUe ; and if, upon after-confideration, I Ihould find them to be oKmportMce, required a promifo of me, to fond them an accouni thereof : The Infonptions were thefe.
^7
On
I !-
[5
i3
i*
A Journey from Vienna to Lariila.
On one of them MEMORIAEJVLIAEEMERITAEQVAE
VIXITANQ8&VALERIAMASCLENIA
FILIAEPIISSIME
And on the Cover D. M.
! f
»■ >.
«
■*,-.
The Infcription upon another was this, MVALVALERIANrLEGIIHFLVIXITAN
XLIIETMVALVLPIOEQ.PVBL'FILVIXIT ANVIIISIMCONDITISVLPIAPARATIANE MARITO ETVLPIAVALERIAFILIA H.REDESTS.
D. M.
.AT.
»
And on the top or Cover, this following, ITAAMTPI6T4^rX6IM6TATIATPOC
The third Tomb was of the fame Figure, but without any Infcrip- tion. I could not omit to fa down thefc, becaufe they arc not to be met with in that great Volume of Infcriptions of Gruter.
Gontora hath been of late more ftrongiy fortified, and a greater com- pafs of ground is taken in, by a line drawn from the Waa^ to the Du- nkle, and fortified with four new Ba£lion«.
Of fome other places, near unto thcfe already named, and whereof I took notice the year before, I lliall make but ihort mention ; as parti- cularly oi Newheivfe//, by the Hungarians called rywar, feated by the River Neutra, not tar from iV/ma, a ftrong place, and Biihops See, taken by Count dc Souches in the laft wars. Newhau/l is a ftrong Hold, re- gularly fortified with fix large Baflions, which makes it lie m the form ofaSur, it was furrendred after fix llorms unto the grand /^///^r ; who prelently befieged it, after that Count For chat z, the Govcrnour, had ralhly loft a great part of his men at the Battel of Barcban ; w here tlu bones ofthe Slain he yet in the Field. The Turkijh Bafju lives in die Palace, which belonged to the Arch-bifhop of PreJu'g, and has converted the Church into a Mofchea. The Bajju growing too fami- liar with the neighbour Governour of Komara^ was jealoufly looked on by the Grand Seignicr^ who fent one to take of his head, and put ano- ther into this Government. This place commands contribution from a good part of the Country between the River Waag and the Nentra^ and bctu een the Neutra and the River Gran : and in places, u here \\c lodged in thofc parts, the Mafter of the houfe told us, he was obliged to give notice unto th^Turks^ who, and how many were in his houle ; -vhcreofwe were not unwilling, relolvii)g to be gone, before the ac- count thereof could come unto them. If the Fifar had not fpent time
about
■£'■
y ■*
The Qcnieral Defcription of Hungary.
^9
ahcut the ficgc of Neivhew/e//, but marched into Anjlrh^ when tl]c Eniperour was yet unprovided, the Auxiliary forces farr ofi^ and yiemia and all the Country about in great fear, lie might have probably iclc laJ tllcdts in tliofc parts ; but attempting Ibmc time afi:cr, to break into Aujiriah\ ^•\\x\x.Godard^ u hen the Imperial torccs were in rcadincfs- and the great bodies ot Auxiliaries of German^ and French came up, he was rcpuKed with ;i,rcat lols of his bcfl Soldiers-, and readily clapt up- 3 peace, which kept thclc parts in quiet for many years.
Scne^ Svhe or Scnia^ a Village near tlic Danube, and rcmarkalle place for variety of Antiquities where, by the help of the Byro cr Jud^edi the Town, 1 met w ah divers Coins, and fome o! GoId,^fome IntagUas^ and as they called it, a Heathen or R man Key. Whereof I prcicnted Icme unto Petnis Lumhcci.us^ \a ho ihc\^ed them unto the £;Tipcn;r. This place, being in the contribution Counrr\' totlic /^r>(\i. harhbecn Iktle enquired into; and thcreiorc the Antiquities thereof were the more welcome Amongfl all the Inicnption-. of Gruter^ I find but one or two oF^Vr/^. The Pc(?ple lay, tins place v\ as formerly called Apo/Io- n/a, but without any good ground,
Pafiing frc^.m Juial to Dot/s^ bt. Martin^^herg offers it fclf to vicw^ ^ in handlome Town, and (Irong Hold, upon the top of a high Hill, over- k)ckingall rlie Country. This is Ibll in thcChrillians liands, though it harh lormerly been taken by the Turks^ once in Amurath the tlurd's time.
L'Otis^ tata^ or thcodata^ about tvv elvc E}igl:lh miles from Gcmora^ uhere there is a Cafl'e with a Ditch about it, and alfo fome Natural Baihs near it. It hath been often taken and retaken : Graff Zack/^ a Nolle Hungarian^ Was then Governor, whofe fingular Civilities I muft always acknowledge ; and indeed in thefe partSjIwas at bell con- tent in tiiC company ofSouldiers, tor they commanded all, r.nd were generous and I'ree hearted Perfons, and could commonly ipeak eitlier Latme^ High-Dutc'-K or Italian ; my company was the more accepta- ble to them, becaufe I had leen many ^d^nsoi Europe before, which they would much enquire alter.
But to return into the road z^im ; we parted from Comora^h^'mg tewed by a i'^/c/' of twenty four oars. T\\q Hungarians rowing up- rn one fide, and the Germans on the other, they falutcd the Fortrefs with two fmall Guns, v\ hlch they carried at the head of the Saick^ and ib we palled by Scne^ Nefrml^ Kodwan^ and came to Notch, the exadl place of the Frontiers. Here we expedcd a Titrkijh Convoy ; which coming betimes in the morning, we made ready for them ; their Of??- ccrs^veHt firll on ihoar, then our J'e\da or l-'eyucd with the Interpre- ter, and chicfeU of the company, both parties walking ilowly, and at meeting L^ave hands to one another, then we delivered our Boat unto the 7«/-^K which they iallned to their Saick _. and lent one i to our Boat to lleer it: and turning about, falutcd the Chriflians with one Gun, and then with eighteen Oais rc^u ed dov\ n the lunuLe^WG carr\in<^ the Eagle in cur F.ag^ they tl.e Dvulle Sivord^ Star ^ and Halj- Moon,
Tlie Jitrkijh Saick convoyed us to Strigwium or Cran^. and fet our Boat on ihoar m the Tow n, and lb left us ; the Governor alfo took hl'* notice ot us, cither in hopes of a prelent, or lb ne private intereft ; hx an Aga^ who came with tour troops of Horlc Irom NeivhewfeL^ being
D % comt?
r
■ r
v\
20
m\
^1^'
MMk
■ss^asssBSSSXsasi
Ttye General Defcripticn of Hungary .
come into the Caftle, asked the Governor ( as we were informed by a Ti^rk^ that came unto us) what he meaned to have ib Jittlc careof his head, to deal with us after this manner ? who were not fent to him, or to a Bajf:j, or a f^rjrer^ but to the Sultan, and no doubt had a Pre- fent for him : whereupon we were Ibondifpatched.
This City of Grj;/, Strigonrnm or OJtrogon, is feated on the South- fide of the Danuie near the Confluence with the River Gran, divided intJ the upper and lower, and both walled ; the lower Wall doth well command the Damhe, St. Thomas /y///,hard by the Town,is alio walled, bccaufe it commandeth the Town : There are in this place Natural Baths of a moderate heat. This hath been the Metropolitan City oi' Hungary, where St. Stephen, the firft Chriftian King of Hungary^ was born ; and King Stephen the third buried.
Scarce any place has fuffered more ftrong and notable Sieges ; be- fiegcd in vain by Jnhn, King of Hungary, taken by Solyman, recover- ed by Count Mansfelt for Matthias,\.\\t ktQ\\\yy^^^ ; beficged again in vain, tut taken in the time of Sultan Ackmet, by the mutinous bafe- nels of the Chriftian Defendants, who (hutting up Count Damn'ter, the Governor, delivered the place unto Aly-Beg the Turkijh General ,• but after many years it was taken again by the Chriftians under the Duke of Lorraine, in the year i68'{ Over againft: Strigonium lieth Barchan ; between thefc two places there is a Bridge of Boats.
From Strigonium we pailed to Ficegrade or Vi'zzegrade : The upper Caftle of this place is feated upon a very high Rock, where the Crown of Hungary hath been formerly kept : the lower Caftle hath been fair ; there is alfo a handfome Fabrick of Iquare Stones, and Arches, the ruines whereof do ftill remain : this place was retaken from the Turks by the Forces of the Arch-Duke Matthias, in the time ol Mahomet the Third, but betrayed, and delivered up by the Treachery of the Heyducks in the Reign o{ Sultan Achmet. CharlesY^m^ oi Naples, and fworn King of Hungary^ was wounded on the head by Forchatz i and being carried into the Caft:le, under pretence of laying a Plafter on his head, was llrangled. This place yielded to the Duke oi Lorraine, 1684.
Over againft Vtzzegrade lieth Maroz^\f^\itx^ there is a large Church ; and the place having voluntarily fubmitted unto the Turks, the Chri- ftians paying a fmall Tribute, lived under no great oppreflion. Be- low this Town, the Danube divides, and makes a fair large Ifland, called St. .^.v'-rifu.^ilflandj ftill rowing down, by which we pailed by I'irovicbitz, a noted place for pleafant Vineyards and good Grapes, and an old ruine of Stone,upon the ftioar of St. Andrews Ifle,where the Turks told us, there was formerly a Stone Bridge, we came to Facia, infor- mer timesa Bifiiop Sce,which hath now two MoJches,znd one Chriftian Church without the Wall. This place was feized upon, facked and burnt by the Turks, i5'4i. but taken by the Emperors Forces, under the Command of the Duke of Lorraine, in the Year 1684. after he had overthrown the Turks in Battel near the Town, but was quitted again at the latter end of the Autumn, there being a ridge of Hills near it which over-look the Town, and render it not eafie to be defendeu. Here wc changed our Convoy again, and pailed unto Buda, the Capital City, and Royal Seat of the Kings of Hungaria, and the refi- dence of a Turkijh Fzfier, who hath divers Bajfas under him. It is a large City, and of a pleafant Situation; divided into the upper and
lower
i
M
The General Defcription of Hungarr.
lower Town, wherein are fome ruines, and reliques of Masnificent Structures, raisdhy the f/mganan Kings, cfpcatilly M^tt/j^^r Corv,. mts, wliofe Palace tlie nfier port'efTed. But much abatinf^ of its anci- ent glory. There are alfi) Tome fair Mofchei, Caravanfaru's, and verv Magnificent Baths: There is alfo a high Hill called St. Gcrarcl\Uonm which hath a Fort on the top, and over-looks the Town and Coun^
The natural Baths of BuJa are efleemed tlie nobleft of Europe not only in refj^ed ot the large and hot Springs, but the Magnificence ot their Buildings, For the Turks bathe very much, and though little cu- nous in moll: ot their private houfes, yet are they very fumptuous in their put lick Buildings, as their Chars or Curavanfara\, Mofcies Bridges, and 5j//;5- declare, j ■ ■>
There ire eight Baths, whereof \ had opportunity to take notice during my flay at BuJa, three toward the £./// and Soutk-Eajt part of the City in t!ie way leading xo^^^xx^sConjtantitwpU and five towards the We^l end oi the Town, m the way towards old Ojfcn, and Stri- gonium.
The firft is a large opr n Bath at the foot of a high rocky Hill, cal- led Purgatory, whereofthe People have fome odd and fcrupulous In- prehenlions. ^ ' '■
The iecond is covered with a Cupula, and ftands nigh the fame Hill but more into the Town, and near a place where thev ufe Tannine '
The third is called the Bath of the green Pillars, 'thougli at pFefent they be of a red colour, it ftands over againft a Caravanjara The Water is hot but tolerable without the Addition of cold water it is impregnated with a petrefiing Juyce, which discovers it fell on theVides ot the Bath, upon the Spouts, and other places, and makes a grey Stone : The Exhalation from the Bath reverberated by the Cupola by the Irons extended from one Column to another, and bv the Capital of tbe Pi.lars forms long Stones like Iftdes, which hang to all thefe places.
The Water is let out at night, when the Women have done bathinc who often ftay late. The Bath is round, fet about with large Pillars lupporting a Cupola, which hath openings to let out the Steam, and yet the whole Room continues to be a hot Stove.
The^j/^/;j- of the Well end of the Town are ' firfl, TaEleUi, or the Bath ot the Table, a fmall Bath covered : the Water white, and of a Sulphureous fmell ; they drink of this as well as bathe in it; what they drink thev receive from a Spout, bringing tl-e Water into this place. 1 delivered a five-Sols piece to a lurk, uho was Lathing in it to ^M for me, wfiich he did in half a Minute, by rubbing it between his hneers while the hot Water tell from the Spout upon it. '
The fccond is Bar at Degrmene, or the Bath of the Powder- Mill, it nfes m an open Pond near the High-way, and mixes with the frclli Springs, which makes the Pond ot a whitith colour in one part and clear in the other ,• as alfo cold and hot in feveral parts. This conve\-- cd crols the H:gh-way into a Powder Mill, becomes ufetul m makins of Gun- powder. ^
The third IS Cuzzacukge, the little Bath, or the Bath of the Saint, tor wnich name the Turks give a luperftitious reafon : It is kept by lurkilh Monks. Tiie Path where the Springs -xnk. h (b hot as fcarce
r,v
/ -'
o t
I
22
The General Defcripticn o/Hungai'} .
tobc cndired ; but being let out into another bathing place at lome cV.llance. it becomes tolerable and fit for ufe. This Water hath neither colour, fmcll,nor tafte difTerent from common Water, and depoleth no fvdtment. only the fides of the Bath are green, and have a fungous lub-
{lance all over.
The fourth is Cjplu.d. ver}' noble Bath, but part of the Buildings was conlumedlhis year, 1669. by a great Fire that happened in But/j, but is fince repaired by the Turks. The Water is very hot, not without a petrcning Ju)ce in it. The Building about is eight fquare, with a noble Bith in the middle, with 1 Circle of a Trench of Water about it for the better Ornament, to bathe the feet in ; on every Tide it hath a iV/c/'e,whercln is a Fountain ; in the middle of the Anti-Chamber, where t'ley l^ave their Cloths, there i:> al.o a fair Stone Bafon and a
I ountain.
The fifth is the Bath of Vd'ihey, which hath a ftrong fulphurcous fme!l ; and a pctreh ing Juyce in it,ancl is fo hot,that to make it tolerable it requires the addition of cold VX'ater ; this is the nobleft of all. The Ant.-Chunbcr is ve y large,the Bith-Room rapacious, and high- Arch- ed, ad.irned with five Cupola^-^ one a very tair one over the great round Bath in the middle ; and one lelTer over each of the four corners, where are cither Baths, or Bath-ftoves for private ufe : in thele the Tur'^s take oil the hair of their Bodies by a FJiiothrum mixt with Soap : it bein^^ not thca- Cuflom to have any hair, except their Beards. Twelve Fdlars fupport the great Cupola^ between eight whereof are Fountains of hot Water, and between the others are places to fit down, where the Barber> and Bath-men attend ; and each ofthcfe places has two Cifteins of Frce-sforte, into which are let in hot Bath- water, and al- io o)ld Water, ta be mixed and tempered as every one pleafeth.
Men bathe in the Morning, and Women in the Afternoon. Wi;en any man intends to bat -e, having entred the firfl Rooms, he finds rtliere d.vers Servants attending, who furnifli him with a Cloth and Apron. Then he puts off his Cloths and having put on the Apron, he enters tue fecond Room, wherein is the great Bath, and fits on the fide of theBa'h, orb.tween the Pillars near a Fountain, where the Birber ftrongly rubs him with his hand opened, flrctching out his Armes, and hfting themup ; after which the Pa:ty bathes. Then if he le a Subje(5tof the grand Se}g>7iorSy or it be the Cuflom of his Country, he hath his head ihaved, and if a young man,his beard, ex- cept the upper Lip ; next the Barber rubs his Brcail,Biicl<> Armes, and Lec^s, with an hair Cloth, white he either fitteth, or lieth with his face downward, then waihcs his head with Soapj and after throw^scold Wa- ter upon him, all over his Body, and then he walks in the {team of the Bath for a time.
ThQ Germans call this City Offen^ and fome will have it founded by Bud J, the Brother of Attila^ the Famous King of the ILmncs. And to ipeak the truth among all the numerous C ountries, ^nd Places Conquered by that Warlike Nation, they could not choofe out indeed a nobler Scat to build a City in, where, bcfides the advantage of their natural Baths and Stoves, this being placed upon the Banks of the grcateft River in Europe^ where it runs in one entire Stream, and tlie City rifing up by degrees to the top of Hills, iffording from moil: Streets of the Toun, a Prolped of twenty Miks or more, on the other fide of
the
Wi
A Jourmy from Vienna to Lariilu
the D muhe^ as far as ones eye can reach, with the view of Pesty and the long Bridge of Boats, an i the beautiful truittul Country about it, renders it moll cxquifirely plcafant and delightful, and was the Royal Scat of the //v>;e;^rA;;/ Kings and Queens, till that Solyman the Mag- nificent, entered it with his Sons Selimus znd Bjiazet^ on the Thir- teenth oi Au;^nif^ in the Year One Thoufand Five Hundred Forty One, and made a Decree that Bur/j (hould be tr*om tliat day kept by a Gar- rilon of 7'iirki, and the Kti"!gdom converted into a Province ol the /«;•- /://■; Empire and the Qiicen and her young Son, be fent into the Coun- try of L/ppj, be ond the River Tjbijcns^ at a little difiance trom Eur/.t or Ojf^en : dicre is another Place called old Ojfen'^ conceived to be Si- Cambria of old, where the Skumbnan Sculdicrs quartered, in the time of the Kimjns: and fome Antiquities and Infcriptions have been taken notice oi in tliat place.
Over agunit BuJ.i^ upon the EuHern-Oooar of Danuhnis ^ Hands the City iV//, beirg Qimdrangular and feated upon a Plain : and by renfon of it Wall, and the Touers of the Mojches^ makes a handfom fliovv' from Bitdu, It gives the name unto the County or Comi- taius Vejihienfis : Hunzana being divided into Counties, like£;7gAzW; between this place and Budu^ the handfom Bridge of Boats, ib above half a Mile long.
The habit of the T'urkilh Women feemed new and (Irange to me : Breeches alnofl to their feet, a kind of SiT.ock over them, and then a long Gown with their Head-drels, which letches about, covering their face, except their eyes and makes them look like Penitents : but it was not unpleafiint untn me, as taking away the occafion of Fride and Folly : though otherwileit can have no good grace m a liran-
ger s
ancy
During our Stay at BuJa^ we went into a Tl/rXv/^ Convent, where tlie Prior orSuj-rcrior called Julpapa^ or Father of the Roje^ with lome of his Brethren brought us into a large Room like a Chappel, and en- tertained us with Melons and Iruit: at parting, we gratified them With fome pieces of Silver, which were kindly accepted. The ^ulpap.i had his Girdle or Ceinture cmbolled before with a whitiih Stone, big- ger than the palm ol^ my hand, which was GalucUtes or Milk-Jioyte ; u hereof they have a great opinion, becauie in their belief, Mahomet turned a whole River in Arabia into this kind of Stone.
We lodged at an old Rafcians houfc, where we were well accom- modated ; having from it a fair Profpect over tlie Damtbe^ the long Bridge and /V//, and a good part oi the Country. Divers Turks and iomz Chuufes refortcd unto us, where they were treated to their con- tent. The Matter of the Houfe was thought to hold fecret corre- fpondence with a Franc'fc n Friar of ¥cjt^ and to give intelligence of Occurrences unto the Miniftersof Stateat(j(7wtfr;/,^^i^,and Fienna\ he prevailed with me to pen a Letter in Zwr/» and Z^///*?;/; wherein I was not unwilling to gratifie him, bccaule it contained nothing, be- Ikies an accouiit of lome Prifoners, and the encroachment of the Ar- mcniun Merchants upon the Trade.
As we were riding in the City, divers of tlie common Tnrks murmu- red, that we ihould ride, wlicre they went on foot. But I was pleafcd to lee many lurks to lalutc Sciginor Gabntl, the Emperors Courrier, in our Company, and to take hi!i liand, and put it to their foreheads.
^3
4^
•■■J,!-
H
9(
A Journey from Vienna to Larilfa.
but Has much more delighted with the courteous entertainment oi Mor. tizan Ephendi,% perfon of note, and who had been an Envoy extraordi- nary at FieyinaHt received us in an handfom large Room,and treated us with great kmdnefs ; faying, that he defired our company, not to any Feaft, but to a Treat ot Affed:ion and Rcfped: ; fuch as might declare that we had converfed like friends, and eat and drunk togetlier • he called tor a ftool, that I might fit down, it being then uncafie to' mi- to fit crofs-legged , and asked me, whether I would learn the Turkilh Language, or whether I would go to the Port , and how I liked Bu^j and among other queftions, asked, what was the i\ing of Poknll name .^ and when I told him, Michael Wifnowitski ; his reply was rmewhat ftrange unto me ; faying, Michael, that's a good name that s the name ot the greatefl Saint in Heaven, except Mary ; and fo having entertained us,he difmifTed us with good withes. At our return to this place, after two days (lay, the Governor fent us with four and twenty Horfe Soaldiersinto Chrit^endom again, thefe guarded us with great care, a day and a night, till they faw us fafe at DoUs:
But now leaving Buila, we travciled by Land Eailward • and palling by the mines of the King of Hmgan\ Mint-houib, hy Hum Zabbi Palanka, and by Erzin, we came to Adom, in Turkilh, Tzam hurtera>t, ox amma UleraU, fo named h^ Slyman the Magnificent- bccaufe, in his hafty retreat from Vienna, he firft made a quiet flop at this place, and there could think himfelf fecure from any purfuit of the Imperial Forces. This place was afterwards taken by GrafPalfi from thence we came to Ftntole or Pentolen Palanka. This or Adorn IS concei; ed to be the old Potent iana,^h&xt the Hunnes, invading thofe parts, tought a bloody Battel with the Romans, under the conduct of Mac rims and Te trie us, but were overthrown.
From hence to Fodwar, in fight of Colocza, feated on the other fideot the Da,;ube, mxh&rQzi^to Temefwar, formerly an Arch-Bithops See ; whereof Tomoreus was Bifliop, whofe raflinels conferred much unto the lots of Hungary, at the Battel of Mohitz. Then by Pax or Pax I unto Tolna, formerly Altinum or Altinium, where the Hunnes being recruited, fought a fecond Battel , obtained the Vidrory and expulled the Romans, though not without the lofs of forty thoufand °* t^="'P?^'" n^en This hath been a very great place, but burnt by tne i^hriltians. The Hungarians and Rajcians, who inhabit here li- ving in no good agreement. '
Thence to Jem Palanka,where we pafTed the River Sarvizza former- ly Z^rpams a handfom River, arifing near Fe/prmium, and'paffins Alia Regalis, or Stdlweifeniurg, the ancient place of Sepulture of the Hungarian Kir)gs, w hich makes a triangle with Euda arid Strizomum and running into the Danuie below. From thence by Setzwar to Bo' tojeck, where we travelled by night, and had a Horfe-guard oiSpahies til we came to Setz, a large Town ; where I obferved the ruincs oi an old ealtle, and a round Palefado upon the Hill
Here is alio a new Chan or Caravanfara ; then to Mohatz. Before we came to this place, we pafTed bya fmall Bridge over the Brook C«. rajfe ; which, upon great rains, over-flows the Neighbour parts • near which Ludovicus the unfortunate King of Hungary periihed be- ing ftiflcd in a muddy place, where his Horfe plunged, after the Battel tought with the Forces of Solyman, on the other fide of the Town.
We
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i
A Journey from Vienna to Larilfa,
\^ e went to fee the place, where fo noble a Pnnce lofi his life, and an inconfiderate Battel lofi the Crown of Humary. This Battel wa? tought the Z9th dav of cthher^ in the Yea? i jz^. C..../c«r, who u-as near the Kmgs Perfon when he was drowned! related the m.nrer ot It to t ie f{u;i^anam, and flicwcd them the place where he icil in trom whence tiie King s Body was afterwards taken up entire and carried to Alha Fegahs, u here u'ith great Solemnity it was I'uried ?d?)rf ^'^ruichres of the other Kings of Hungary, his Prcdc-
Hcrca r uts we met with a Caravan of two or three hundred Per- fons, toire going to a place of Devotion , and having 7^»/^.7,vn- with tnem, to guard them: others intending, by pcrmifiion, to feat tb.em- telves in other parts of Hmgary. And in divers places I met with numerous drovev of Oxen, drix en towards Vienm, upc^n tlie account ot the taltern Company of that City, who turnitli that place and y)untry af,out,and are permitted to pals free bv the Grand Sei'rniorSS:]^^ day wc left (2/^///ya^ Ecdejuc, ?,r\d Zigeth on'rhe right hu-.l\, this lall rs a Itrong place feated by the fide of a Fcnn, in which tliere is an Iljand^ ^n<X beyond that a Caftle. Count Sercm deienckd this Place ngainit the Turks, with unparalleled Bravery, and v.'hcn f.e had loft the Town, retired into the Itland, and lall of all into thcCanie and when there were but four and twenty of them left alive, thcv all Sallied out together.choofing rather to die every man,than to gi\'e Sohman the Magnihccnt, who bcfieged them, any pretence to the Toun, bv their Surrender; and Solyman himfelf died likewife in the Camp and hath a Sword hanging by his Tomb in Conjhntinople, as a peculiar honour to him, ,n regard that he did rot only fpend a great part of his life but alio died in War. *
From hence by B.irimwar Darda or Draz.i unto E[Tc'ck or Olfeck conceived to be old Mnrja, or not far from it. It is feated lou', and the Streets are planked with Trees. Upon one fide of the Gate rs part of a Rnn,a>, Infcription. M. /E L I A N, &c. on the other Me a Maids head in a Stone ; there is alfo a Dyal, which is not ordinary brought trom Scnnwar; and the greateft piece of Ordnance, which Haw m all thofe parts, not lying upon a Carriage, but upon Bodies of Trees. But that which is moft remarkable here, is the well contrived Bridge of Wood, made partly over the River Dravus, and partly over the Pennsadjoyning, being five Miles long : being raylcd, and having Towers at every quarter of a Mile : that part over the River DrazuT was burnt down by Count Nicolas Senni, in the laft Wars, and ano- ther built fince. He that beholds this Bridge, the Touers of Wood upon it, the llrong rayles and floar, and the numerous tupporrers of ir cannot but wonder, how they iliould be fupplied with Wood to build It, or maintain it. But hereof Ifpeak ellewhere, this is the c^reateft Pairage in //«;;.5j/7, trom Servia, and the Turkijh Dominionsr Had this been uell defended, when Sniyman invaded Hun^r^aty, he had not probably obtained fo eafie a March unto B.uh. And to hinder the Supply of the Grand Fillers Armv from other parts of Turky, Count ;*> rtmhnrne down that part, which was built over the Dr.tviti ; and in his return burnt r^«/,7yve Ecctelice ox the Citv of fiveChurch^v ^hjcii hedi Wefi:ward from Eifeck.
2g
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26
A Journey from Vienna to LarilTa.
y ^
From thence we came to Valcovar^ where there is a hijndlbm wood- en Bride over the River Wdpo or Val^antt\, plentiful of hill ; and upon which, tothe Weftward, ftands the Town of Walpo^ taken by the Twri-v in the Year 1545'. by the Treachery of the Dependants, after that it held out three M. nths under the Command of Perenms\ Lady and Friends, and the Garrifon was notwithftanding put to the Sword. ^\\<:x\\vj Sotz'tn Palanka^ and Towarnick ox Juhormck, to Metromtza % large Town, and a great place for a Fair, ftrengthned by the adjacent Lake. So to Simonovttz^ leaving at a good dillance on the right hand the famous old 5/rw/«w, now an inconfiderable place, whereof I have alfo faid fomewhat ehewhere. They call this Country Scbremma ; and that, uiore near the Dravus^ Bojfega.
In this Country many Famihes, and the Inhabitants of divers little Towns, live all under ground. I had formerly read oi Troglodytes and fubterraneous Nations, about ^gypt ; but I was much furprized to fee the iikc in this place, and could not but fay unto my fcif :
Now I lelieve the Troglodytes of 0IJ, U hereof Herodotus and Strabo told;
S/nce every ivhre, aiout thefe parts^ in holeSy Canicular me.t I find ^ and humane Moles.
Near thefe Habitations are Wells, to fupply them with Water ; which they draw up, like Dyers and Brewers: and Dogs come out upon Strangers. As we travelled by them, the poor Chriflians would be- take themfelves to their holes, like Conies. So that to fatisfie our curi- ofities, we were fain to aUght, and enter their houfes, which we found better than we cxpeded, divided into partitions, with Wooden Chim- neys, and a Window at the farther end , a little above the ground : and all things as neatly difpofed, as in other poor houfes above ground j although but meanly, after the fafhion of thole parts. Their Speech is a Dialed: of the Schlavonian, Then travelling on between the Danu" hius and the 6'*2X'«j,we came to Zemlin upon the Damle ; from whence we had a fair Profped of Belgrade, into the Caflle of Zemlin^ Ste- phen, the ufurping King, retired, and died. From hence we paffed by Water unto Belgrade. Belgrade^ aurunum.Alba Gnecafireek-Wetfienburg- or Nandor Alha, as the Hungarians Call it, it is a large, ftrong, popu- lous, and great Trading City, m Servia, or Misfta Superior, feated at the Confluence of the River Savus, and Danuhius : having the fir It on the Well, the other on the North. The Danuiius is here very broad, runs furioufly, and ktms to cut off the Savus^ as the Rhojne doth the Soane, by Lyon in France.
The Water of the Danube feems more white and yellow, troubled and more confufed.
Turlidus & volvens Jiaventeis Ifler arenas.
Thitofthei'<;7'z;iry, darker, greenifli and clear; at the entrance of the Savks, there is an Ifland, on which there is now much ^' ood, although it be not older than five and thirty years ; about wluch time, iince the filt of both flreams fo fettled, as to appear fkll; above Wate^:.
Arriving
liM
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■^3
A Jour7wy from Vienna to Lanila.
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27
Arriving at Bd^rade^ \ pafTed by the Water Caflle, and afterwards by the upper Callle, both large, and having many Towers; The Streets, where the grcatefl Trade is driven , are covered over with Wood, as in divers other Trading Places ; fo that they are not offended with the J>un, or Rain. They confift commonly of Shops, whicli arebutfmail; and no other, tiian a Taylors Shop-board, placed low; upon which, after the fame manner, the Shop-keeper fits, and fclletli his wares to his Chapman without, tew or none entring in. I faw alfo two large places built of ftonc, like unto the Exchange, with two rows of^ Pillars over one another ; but they were fo tuU of Merchants Goods, that they loft much of their beauty. There are alio two large Btfzejte72s, erf laces, where the richeft Commodities are fold. They arc built in the form of a Cathedral Church, and w^ithin are like to the old Excliarge, above ftairs. The Grand l^ifter hath built a noble Carava>tjara in this Citv, with a Fountain in the Court, and near unto it a Mofchea, with a Fountain before it : which was thtfivHt Mojchea^ which I had the opportunity to lee within-fide. He hath alfo built a Metrejeck or College for Students, I faw a Stu'ent habited in green, and wearing a Turbant with four Corners , difierent from others, which is a peculiar diftindion. /Mthough near to moft Towns there te Sepulchres to be feen, yet I obferved them to be moft numerous at Eehrade.is bein:^ very populous,and the Plague having been lately in it.
We lod'^ed ^t^nArnteman Merchant's houfe, where wewerehand- fomlv accommodated. And we vifited divers others, who had built them fair houles ; one, in which there was a Fountain and handfom Bath, and Stoves, where we wanted not C^/i?f, Sherbet^ and excellent Wines ; fuch as the Neighbour Country affords. Thefe Armemans are difpcrfcd into all Trading Places,and have a Church here at Belgrade^ and feem to be more plain dealing, and reafonable men to buy any thing of. than either Jem or Creeks.
The Countries about have a great Trade unto this place : the Raguft- ans Trade here, and the Eaftern Merchants of Fienna have a Factory in this City. And furely Belgrade is as well feated for Trade, as any in-land place in EuropeSor being fituated upon the Confluence of the DanubtHS^ and the Savus, having the great River tihifcus running into the Danule rear it ; the Dravus not very far from it, and the River Morava not tar below It ; the Danube alfo flowing forward unto the Euxine Sea.it may hold no uneafie Commerce with many remote parts. And Servia being a fruitful and plcafant Country confifting of Plains, Woods, and Hills, u'hich might aiford good Metals, not without ftout Men, goodHorfes, Wines and Rivers,if it were in the Chriftians hands ofthe temper of thole in the eftern part o^Europe^w. might make a very flourilhing Country.
This place hath formerly been the Bulwark of Hungary, in vain be- fiprred bv Anturath the fecond, and again by Mahomtt the Great, who was repulfed by the valour of Hunmades, and the Auxiliaries, raifed by Friar Capifiranus : when Hunniades ifluing forth, and encamping out of the City beat away the Turkilh Forces with great (laughter : where Mahomet himfclf was wounded in the breaft, loft his Ordnance, and two hundred Ships were overthrown, by a Fleet, wnich came trom Buda-.hyxt, bemg unprovided, it was fmce taken by ^^/yw^w the Mag- mhcent, in the fecond Year of his Reign,in the Year ot our Lord i^zr.
and m no likelihood to be recovered.
E z Leaving
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28
i4 Journey from Vienna to Larilla.
Leaving Bel^raJe, we proceeded in Servia, and pafTcd by a very high Hill, called Hwvtlleck, on the South or right hand, wliere are Ibll the ruines of an old Monaflery, and came Mnto HiJS'argick, nigh the Danuh ; which, in Maps, is commonly placed too tar from it. Here U'c took leave of that noble River, which by this time hath run a long courfe ; and from Vlwe, in Schuiabenlmdt^ where it begins to be navi- gable, about nine hundred Miles : but more from its firft fource and orignal ; and hath a long fpace yet to run, before it enters the Eux- tne. Next to Collar^ not far from Samandna, an old habitation and Ro- man Colony, but now a place of no great remark, it fell into the hands oftlic Turks wixkitivcatoi Amur at h the firft, and was given to the Chriftians again by his Son ^«//j» £j;ji<f/^, for Lazarus Defeat di Scr- ■via being ibin in Battel, left a mournfiil Widow. Step/^e» his Eldcft Son, and a fair Daughter, and their Family being then m great diflrefs, they fent Amballadors to SukjH Bajazer, with rich Prelents and great Oilers which pleafcd him well, but above all he was marvelloufly taken with the incomparable beauty of the fair Defpoma, at the lame time preiented to him by her Mother the Defpotin, who had formerly promiled her to him, upon which he not only granted them peace tor the prelent, but in return thereof beflowed upon them the plealant City of Semundna. The beautitul Defpoina after this when Baja^et was overthrown, and Ihut up in an Iron Cage, was liiddenly taken Prifoncr in tlie City of Prufa in AJia Minor by Axalla, one of the Gene- rals to Tamerlane, and carried far away, into the Eailern Parts of the World, but however it came to pafs She was afterwards brought back again, and now lies buried by the Tomb of Sultan Bajazet at Brufu : From hence to //affaa Bafa Palanka, about torty Englijh miles from Belgrade : perhaps fo called from Haffan Bafa aVamous Turk^/k Gene- ral. Here I couid not but take notice of an handfome Antiquity in Stone, ot a Lyon worrying a Wolf.
From thence to Eaditzjta, where the Womens drefs began to change, and was Ibmcwhat odd unto me. They wear a kind of Canopy on their heads; whicli is fct about, as alfo their foreheads, with all forts of mony, which they can get of Strangers. We lett fome fmall pieces a- mong them, to add unto that curiofity : in this kind of Ornament I hivt: leen lome Graician Women very rich,and fomew hat after this failii- on, but their head-drefs not railed fo high, having their foreheads co- vered with Ducits of Ggki, and Pearl.
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A Journey from Vienna to LarifTa.
29
\7e pafled oa to ^agoJna^ pleafantly feated, and in a fair Country, whence fctring forwards, after a k"^ hours we turned Southward, and foon after, upon the fide of an Hill, upon the right hand, I faw the Tomb of a Turkijh Saint, about four yards long, and a fquarc covered place by it: here our C/^/tf«j* alighted, and performed his devotions in prayer, then we travelled on, through great Woods, dangerous for Wolves and Thieves, by Chifflkk^ where there is a Carauatifarah^ but not always fafe: fo as we refrefhed our felves in a large Farmhoufe, not far trora thence, belonging to a rich Wine Merchant 0^ Eelgrarfe. From hence we travelled by Night to the noted River Morava or Mof^ chius^ the chief River of this Country ; which arjfing nbove in the Mountains in two flrcaras, the one named Morava di Bulgaria^ the 0- thcr Morava di Servia^ after uniting, runs into the Danuhe^ at Zen* derin or Singidumm^ oppofite to the Rafcian ihoar : we pafled this River at a place which was broad, fomewhat deep, and rapid, and therefore not without fome fear, and the continued loud prayer of the Ch: .US in Turkijh^ and of the Couriers Or a pro mbis. This palBgeput
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f
A Journey fromVkrm2. to LarilTa.
mc in mind of the fwift River rarus, in the Confines of Provence and Italy which I pafled on Horfe-back, with two men going by me, on the lower fide flioving up my Horfe left the current (hould bear him down. By this River Morava, the commodities o(Servia, and part ot Bukaria, are brought into the Danube, and fo difperfed ; and up tlie current of the fame River are brought Salt and other commodities, from Hungary, Aufiria, and the neighbour Countreys. Not tar from this River, was that great {laughter of the Turks by Hunmades*, who, with ten thoufand Horfe, kt upon the Twryt/y^ Camp by Moon-light, flew thirty thoufand, and took four thoufand Prifoners, vidionouflv re- turning unto his Camp. Where he left Vladtjlaus and George Defpot of Servia, We arrived at length at Halli Jahifar, or Crujhovatz in Bulg^.- nan ; a confiderable place, where there is an handlom Church, with two fair Towers. Then travelling the whole day through Hills and Woods ue came to Trocupie^ which fome will have to be Villa Proco-^ plana, in rurkijh called Vrchup. Here we ftayed till the next day, be- in^ lodged in a Ragufean Merchants houfe, where we were well enter- tamed. The Prieft, being of the Roman Church, fpake Latine, which is a Language not ordinary in thefe parts ; and enquiring of me after La- tine Books, I prefented him with one, called Manuducih ad caelum, which he kindly accepted, and gave me a wrought-coloured Handker- chief, and fome little things of thole p rts. They had alfo a Phyfician, who had fome knowledge of Simples and ordinary Compofitions. His manner was to go into the Market-place every morning, and mviteall perfons, who ftood in need of his afliflance, to refort unto him
From hence we came to Lefioa, or Leicovia, where I could obferve little, befides a large Tower, which feemed to be ancient, but without Infcrlption. We pafled much of our time at a great Fair, which hap- pened to be at that time kept in a large enclofcd place, with great refort of People ; where I thought it feafonable, to prefcnt the Chiaus with a Feather; he having loft his the day before, and we found fome want thereof/ for hereby we travelled with more Authority through all places. ' This Town is feated upon the remarkable River Lypentza, which may well be called the Ma^ander of M^Jia ; for it runs fo winding and crankling between the Hills, that in t;e fpace of lefs than twelve hours, we pafled it ninety times. This called to my mind the River Taro in Italy, which, parting from the Dominions of Parma, I pafled forty times, before 1 came to Fornnvo.
The next day we travelled over the Mountain Cl/fura, one of the Spurs or Excurfions of Mount H^emus. We were much furprifed at the gallant appearance thereof, for the Rocks and Stones of this Moun- tain Mnt like Silver,and by the light of Sun and Moon,Cfor I pafled it once by day and another time by night) afforded a pleafant glittering Ihow, as confifting of Mufcovia glafs, whereof I brought fome home with me. This Mountain furely cannot be much unlike that mention- ed by Olearius in his Travels into Perfia, between Permeras and Sea- wachiay where he relates that he faw a Mountain of Lapis Specularis^ which w hen the Sun fhined upon it,iooked like a heap of Diamonds. We defcended in a narrow rocky way by the ftrong Caftle di Kolomhotz^ or (jelohotz, and came unto Vrania, feated at the bottom of the Moun- tain Clifura, this is a ftrong Pafs, which the Caftle commands, and locks up the paflage.
A Journey from Vienna to LariHii.
5^
The Hills between Servia and Macedonia, are a part ot Mount Hie^ mus ; which, under leveral namesjs thought to extend rrom the Adna^- tick to the £w.v/«^ Sea ; admitting of fevcral pallages, which Philip, Ring oS. Macedon took a fpecial caretofhutup againft the Neigiibour- ing Nations. Which when he had done, he thought himiclf Iccure : and that from thence no Enemies could come at Iiin*, except they drop- ped out of the Clouds. Some have thought, that from the midcle Peaks di H^mus a man might fee both the Euxme and Adriatkk Seas; and King Phdip made tryai of it : but we find not, that he fatisfied Jus curiofity therein ; nor do I think any hath done it. Being upon high Mountains, and more inclining to the Adriatick Sea, I viewed all about ; but found, that the high Alhaman Hills did cut oti all long Profpedl'.
From Vrania we pafled to CcntonaTa^ncar which there is. ft ill a Creek Monaftery, upon the fide of the Hills. From thence to KapLmiih or Tigres Town ; but why fo called, I could not learn. Tlxn to Kuprw lib or Br id^\€'Town, where there is a con jfideralle Rivernamed Pjinia, and a good Bridge built over it. This Town was caluaily let on fire, while we were in it, and a great part of it burnt down ; the fire cncrea- fing much tefore we got out of it. Hero we met with many perfons, wlio brought the Tribute, and a Prcfentot Hawks out oiWallachia unto the Grand ::>eignivr^x.htn refiding at Lar/Jfa-
^ rem hence, by IJiar, we came to Pyrlipe, firft paifing t!;c high Mountains cf Pyrlipe in Macedonia which Ihine like Silver, as thofe of Clijiiira\ and, befide Mofcovia Glafs, may contain good Minerals in their bowels. The Rocks of this Mountain arc the moft craggy that I havefecn ; and nialTy Stones lye upon ftones, without any Earth about them, and upon a ridge of a Mountain, many Steeples high, ftands the ftrong Caftle of Marco Crollowitz, a man formerly famous in thele Parts.
Then through a Plain Country we came to Monafler or Toli a great Place, well peopled, and plealantly Seated. Here the Sultana, who was great with Child at Lanjja, was dcfigncd to Le delivered, ai^d lye in. All accommodations being ordered to that purpole, where I aferwards heard Ihe was deliveredof a Daughter, wlio lived not long alter. Tie Turks, who have a high opinion of Alexander the Great, u ould have been glad to have had a Son of the Empire born in Macedonia.
From h^nct to Filurina, and Ecciijo Verheni, where there arc Aci- dulm ofgoodeiteem, the Springs large, and plentiful. Before we de- fcended the Hill, which leads to this Town, we had a iight before us of the famous Mount Ohmpu^, about Seventy miles otf; and on the left hand we faw the Lakes oi'Pctriski, and (Jtrova ; they have a Tradition, that one of thele Lakes was made, by taking great flonesout of the fide of the Hills,whertby the Subterraneous wacer^finding vent,over-liowed the Neighbour Plaines.
We came afterwards to Fgrilugia, where we again left the Plains, and travelled over high rocky Hills to Sar/gg.'o/e. U hence palling through the River Injecora, we came to Sarvitza^ a noted Place, built partly upon an HJl,anJ partly m the Piam. The ChriUians live moil \\\ the upper part, ihe Turks in the lower : there is dfo a Caftle upon a verv high Rock : not lar troin hence we went through a palfjge, cut ihiough the Rocks, like ro a great Gate, and a fm-aU River paiiingalfo
through
yl Jouniey from Vienna to LarilTa.
through ir, which makes a fall PaCs, and commands tlic ralTpre ot tIusCountry,whichputmein mind of /^ Chiuja-m the Jd, J ^/pes between I e»Jone and Fonteva; which paffiige the rf/;f/w«j fliut up every night we took notice ahb in our Journey, of the iirft Turkilh A/fl/c/.^-.^ which was bmltinthefe parts, upon that place where the Turks firft rcfted, .iter they had taken the ftrong Caftle and PafTage of Sarvitza Here we aho paiFed by a Hill of a fine red Earth, wliereof they make Pots and VeiTels, like thofe of Portu<i,al Earth, which arc of cllecm all atout thele Parts, We proceeded over dangerous Rocks in narrow hanging ways dill on Horle back ; although we had Iktie plcarm-c to look down the Precipices on one hand, and fee the Carkai: Ics ot riorfcs in (om^ places, which had fallen down and broke their necks. Afterwards we had the Mount OlymBus on our lelt hand till we came to W/^f..;e or Akficon, a confiderable place ; where there is a Greek Monaftcry, and Monks of the Order of St BalU. The Mo- nailery was ot a diUcrent kind of building from any I had then feen l-rom hence pairing over a River, wc entered into a round Plain of about five Miles over; with divers Towns pleafantly feated in ir Then over an Hill again, which is a Spur of Mount Ol,rr,pus ; upon thetopwhereof anold Man flood beating of a Drum, to give node" untoPafllmgerson both fides, that thofe parts Mere free from Thieves F rom this Hill as we defcended, we had a good Profped of the Plains o\lheUaly ; and at the foot ot it ue turned to the left, and palfed over a River, which runs from under a rocky Mountain notinfmqll Spnngs but the whole body of the River together ; and' the, thro.g \ in.v aids, ana Gotten lidds, to Tor^evo, and from thence to Unfa
herSter' '" ""'"'' '^'^ '' °^ ^^^'^^ ^^'''' ^^ ^^^" ^P^^^ more In our return, we left the road, ^hom A^.j>laMj, and turned unto
ttV ?K f ^''"' ^''\'"^ '^'^ ^^^S^ft 'H thefe parts. Scop^a or .Sc.p^ of Ftolomy, named Z^fco^a by the Turks, is feated in the re- moteft parts ot M^M Superior, or the Confines of AlacedoJ^ at the foot ot Mount 0././.X, upon the River ^ar^.r, or Axu.s n a plea! rant and jMcntifu Country, feated partly on Hilk, and part W o" pE It was hrrt a Bdhops, afterwards an Arch Bifliop See ; ftill a pleafant and populous p ace. There are feven hundred Tanner in it, and they Tann m great long Troughs ot Stone, and make excellen LeatheT u herewith they furnifli other parts.There are fome handfom Sep ctal
in toThr^'' '^""^' ^^Z""'"'^'^ thatofthe0^.y,and that Won^ ing to die E.ur, or one of AIaho»>ets Kindred, whof'e Father was Tf grea teaeem in thefe parts. In the Court-yard of the £..rs Houf^ r He ""rr ]l^' ^';J P'^^^J'^ ^y contrived Fountain, in manner of a C.ilie, fet round with many Towers, out of the tops whereo the U ater fprings forth, Their bell Houfes are furmJlied with dch Car! pets to tread upon : and the Roofs divided into Trian- les QuaSnles and other Figures fairly gilded, and painted with fe veraiclur "to ' Without any Imagery or Reprefentat.on, either of An^al or Vegetal ble. Here IS alfo a fair 5...y/.«,covered with Lead; many S recrf co vered over w.th Wood; and divers places are f:^irS w h n and widiout the Town , being let ofT by^rees and plealant Hu" and
There are a great number of Mofdeas or Turk,/J; Churches. The
fairclt
1 Journey from Vienna to LarifTa.
laircll is on a Hill, and hath a large Portico before it, fuppnrted by four Marble Pillars; near whicii is a| Tt»i'er of Wood with a Clock and a Kell in it; from whcne I had a good F'rofpedl: of the City. There is alio an Arch , whicli leems to be Ancient, and a riv-olet ruHning under it. A lar^e Stone alfo which leems to be part of i Pillar, uitii this infcription S H A N C A litile «/ay out oi tir City, rkerc is a no- lle Anuerliitt of Stone, with about two hundred Arc!u;s, made rrcm one Hill to another, over the lower gr(?t)nd or Valley between, wliicli is a handfomc Antiquity, and adds to the honour of this place. When Mahmet the Firll conquered this City, lie placed a Colciiy of Afmtick^ m it, w lich makes it the moiic Turkrfi}. Great A(^ions have been performed hereabouts, in the time of tlie. Rowans, particularly by Re- pUianm ; as is tcftified by TieitJlius P»/Iioy tkat lie-^ion k) ip!any Bat- tles, and earned on fuch mighty things at Scupi, tliiit he dcferved a Triumph. Hereabouts alio itocxi PM-itcrpolis, and Tjlpuwum.
The Sanziack of this Place is under the Eeilci le% of Rumel/a or Grce- chu A l/acle IS driven Irom hence to i^e/^rWc, and to Jht\jahnica\)r Salonichi^ and many other ]:)lacLS. I liavc been niore particular con- cerning this City, becaufe Geagrafbers pafs it over in a few words ; and I could ne\ cr meet with any, w ho had been at It.
From hence we travelled to Cu/^//;^«/67',a Fortrels tliat commands the paflageb-tween the Hills ; and afterwards advanced lotar, as to enter the famous Plains of Cojfova in Bulgaria ; which forac take to be Campus Merulie^ a Plain not very much exceeding JJncaln Heathy yet the Stage of great Adions. Here tlie grcateft Cfiriftian Army, that was ever brought into the Field in Europe^ confifling of five hundred thcu- land men, under Lazarus Defpot of Serz^ia^ fcught wirli the Forces ot: ^murab the iirft, and loft tile day. In which Battle Lazarus was flain : and .t/w/rj/', viewing the dead bodies, was ftabbed by Mkbacl Cobilovitz^ a Chriftian Sould^er, left for dead in the Field. Amurab hath in thefe Plains a Memt)Fial Monument unto this day \ and that part is called the Field of the Sepulchre : in the fame Plains was alfo fought that remarkable Battle between I lunfuaJes and Mabomer^ for three days together ^ where £lunniades^\:i^ivi^ very unecjual Forces, was ut laft over-thrown. - ; ^
We proceeded forward to Trejlina^ a good Town, and where wg ex- petflcd good accommodation ; but having entered into a fair Room, we found a man lying down in it Tick of the Plague. So we conllilred imr fafety, and flayed not long ; and having a Oypfh to our Guide, we travelled through a Country thinly inhabited, but Iruitful and plcalant and were much refrclhed with fair Cornelions^ which grew plentifully in the ways : we palled alfo by an hot Bath, a little on the right hand. The Bath is an arched Room v\ cll built, and very refrelhing unto Tra- vellers. It hatha red Sediment, and is impregnated with ■d.JH^cus lapidc fcenSy and makes a gray StonQ. It is within two hours going oi Bcllu" cberqua QY Curfumtie^whti-Q lobferved a Convent and an old Church wdth two handfom Towers ; From whence palFing over the Hill JaJ^ie- hatz^ we came to Elhclleck between the tv/o MoravdsfiX\6. fo by a Caltle upon a Hill, near unto which is a noted Convent, wherein is kept the body o": Kcnez Lazarus^ and the body of St. Romams^ and lo proceed- ed. But I mull not forget to fay Ibmetliing of Lanjja.
F THE
-«r-
35
/ -■
I.
i A
IF
34
/ ,
. *
THE
DESCRIPTION
OF
LARISSA
AND
THESSALY.
LARISSA is the chief City o^theJ!aly, feated by the River Pemusy the chief River of that Country. Upon the North it hath the Famous Mountain Olympus^ and on the South a Plain Country. It is now inhabited by Chrljtians^ Turks and Jews ; hath fair Bezeflens , divers Turkijh Mofcheas, and Chriflian Churches in it. It is pleafantly feated, and upon a rifing ground : on the upper part whereof ftands the Palace of the Graitd Seigmor^ which he hath made ufe of during his refidcnce in this place : it is contrived with jetting large Windows, on four fides, near which he took his re- paft, and pafs-time, according as the Wind fcrved, or afforded the beffc ventilation.
It is alfo an Arch-Biihop's See, having divers Suffragan Biihops under it. The Reverend Father Dionyfius was then Arch-bilhop. The Church of St. Achilleus is the Cathedral, where I heard Divine Service the Arch-biiliop being prefent, and llanding in his Throne in his Epifcopal habit, and his Crofier in his hand ; when three or four of us Strangers came into the Church, he fent one to fume us with Inccnfe and Iwcet Odours.
The Grand Seignior kt^t his Court in this place forfome years, in or- der to his Affairs in Candia, and for the great convenience of Hunting and Hawking, wherein he exceedingly delights. When I came away it was faid, that he would go to Ntxroponte-, but he remained at La^ rijia fome months after, until he removed ioSalonichi^ and afterwards to Adrianople,
In the hot and dry Summer 1669. the Grand Seignior paiTed above two months of that 5eafon upon the Neighbouring Mount Olympus partly that he might have a large Profpedt over the Plains, and a part of the yig^an Sea^ and partly to enjoy frelh Air, and be removed from the choakmg heat of the Valleys ; but this humour proved deilrudlive to fome hundreds of thofc, which attended him ; for it became fo cold
upon
i
I
The Defcription of Lanlla an^ Thcllalv,
35
upon the Hill, that many, who reforted unto him, beinf^ ovcr-heaccd by afceiiding the Mountain, and then pierced by the cold Air above, Jell lick, and dyed ; and often in fuch places, wlicre there was fcarce t.irrh cn:)ugh to bury them. The Si^/taft himleh' t^^U alio into a diftem- j>cr, hut it lulled but three or tour days: of Horles and Camels not a tew penlhcd. The S^ilra^, who is a delperatc rider, killed one of his bcH Horlesi by forcing him up a noted Peak of the Mountain, called Pythagon or Kijiagnn^ Mdiere iii\K or none could iollow him ; he was alio fo daring, that lie would have leaped on Horleback over a FifTure or Cleft in the Rocks in a bravery; ai d was fcarce with-held from that bold attempt, by the prayers and importunity of his chl fjft followers. Many alfo periilied by drinking of a Spring of a whitilh colour upon the Hill, in their Heats and Thirft, contracted by afcendingthe Moun- tain ; they romphunmg of a coldnefs and heavinefs at their Stomach lor three or lour days betbre they d} ed.
The Greeks ( who are forward to magnifie the Concerns of their Country,) fpeak highly of Mount Ohmpus r and Homer would have it to be the habitatioa of Jup/terand the Gods^and to be without Cfouds ; but unto me fome part o{ the .-iJpes iecm much higher ; and I have leen Clouds above it ; and in Septcmler there appeared no Snow upon it, which the high Peaks in the Alpe$^ Fyrefuran and Carpathian Moun- tains, belldes many others in Europe, are never without. And Olyrrjpus alio was plentifully lupplied with it 4ipon rhe firft Rain that tell in that Country ; it not being unknown to you. I fuppofe, that when it rains upon the Valleys, at the H^mc time it fnows upon high Mountains,- and this Hill \ muil confefs to be vifible at a great diftance ; for I be- held it from Eccrlfo ycrleni in Macedunui^ feventy miles from it ; and it confifl: s not of one rifing Peak, as it is fometimes defcribed, but is alio extended a great way in length, and makes good the Epithete of Horner^ Longum tremere fecit Olympum. If the word be there taken,not ^^j^^ .
:ly for high, but lon^. ■ ^^^^ '
one
This Hill cf-ueHy extending from Eafl: to Weft^makes the Inhabitants, at the toot of the North and South /ides, to have a different temper of Air, as if they lived in Chmes much diilant ; wliich makes the expref^ fion oi Lucan very Emphatical :
Nee metHens imi Borcan halitator Olvmpi, Lucentem totis ig^orat HccUi^us Ardton.
Tuulus /EmyliHs^ tlie Roman Conful, winding about this Hill, by the Sea-fide, overcame King Perfeus^ and fo conquered Macedonia. When King Antiochus befieged Larifia, Appius Claudius railed the Siege, by g eat fires, made upon part o'i Mount Olympus ; the King apprehending '^^'^>'' thereby, that the whole force of the Romans were coming upon him. But the Exploit of the Conful Martius upon this Hill was moft remark- able, and unparallel'd by any fince ; who being fent againil King Phz- lip^ the iall of that Name, brought lusSouldiers over Olympus, by paf- fages unknown, and luch difficult ways, that his men were fain to wai- ^^^' ^• low, and make hard Ihift down ; and his Elephants, by ftrangc contri- ^'^^' "^ ved Engines, fomcwhat like draw-Bridges, one under another, were
1: % let
r
3<f
'"■'" ■ "^ ~"^ " ■■■■■'■ ■■ - - ■ ■— I ■■! ■ — — ^^— ^^^^^MT Mil a 11 »i I
TheDefcription ofLanlla ancll\\Q.iXAy .
rdolybm.
I'i •
'Mw^n-
let down into the Plains ; as S,t miter R.wleigh hatJi more largdr defcnbcd the fame. ° -^
• "V""^.." the C?/^ W 5.r/2»/*r hath honoured Larifia by a long aboad in It; fo King PMip of //<,«^^», the lafl of that Name, did the like • fur we find he pafled the Summer at Lanfia, the fame Year, when '/fan- nital tock Saf^HHtu^ in Spain. Whether A'erxes were here when hLs great Army pafTed through Thefialy towards ThermopyU, Hiftories do not declare. But King Fhthp, Father unto Alexander the Great after he had quieted the Myrians^znA Pannonians, bent his mind upon Greece- in order whereto he took the City Lar^fu upon the River Lneus, and thereby got fo good footmg in Tbefalj, that he made great ufe of the ThelJaliaHS, m the following Wars with Greece.
Before the Battle of Pharfalia, as Cafar delivers, Scipio lay with a Legion in this City ; and this was the firft place, unto which Pompey retired, after his Overthrow ; according to that of Lucan.
Vidit prima tua iefiu Larifla ruina. Noiiley nee u til urn fat is caput.
And not flaying there, he went along the River ; and taking Boat went out to Sea, and was taken m by a |reat Ship,then ready to w°£
The River Peneus, which runs by Larifia, is the chiefeft in Th,r f^ly.nd into which moll of the other Rivers )un ; anfingtom M?u{; Fundus ; and running into the Stnus Thermatcus, or Gulf oiSalonkhi
cd from rw now Sal^.b., unto the mouth of the kiverVt ! .
nto fev'^'^'f^.'"'' '"^ P'^^S^' "^ =^"y ^°"^d be made, to "m ; Z%a ^i ' u"""^- ^"'^"i'?' "P°" ^"'I"^'"y' ^hat the River had no other pa%e, and that it could not be turned: he faid. That Ihe mZ //^«. Iiad done wifely to yield, and make their p^ace with him for
\S^fu^i^"u'^''/'r^"''^ r^^J^/y might hVve been drowned ^ hat&fftrt^'^dtS^ the Daughter of ^... who ^^^tu^Zl^nL^I^^^^^^
There isanhandfome Stone- Bridge over this B.V^.. nr^r,r,a- f Nine Arches , and peculiarly contrived wXhofe and J^l^^^^the foUd parts between the Arches, to afford fome palTage un o fhe w.r when It IS high J and hinder the bearing down of SXe in h^" n""' tcrs, and great floods. ^ ondge.in high wa-
Ipedt. The Sails ot their Tents were lb orHerrH ►i.o^ .u "''*"'^ ^^'^o- *id«n,yard cfch.8r.„„d: ibl" SrSl^ErfeVer/ii;":
them;
'■,.i*
The Defcription of L^xi^ji andT\\z^Ay.
37
them ; where they commonly remained palUng a great part ot* the day in Drinking Sberhet and Coffee,
Tlie neareft con fiderable Port unto £^r/^7, is that uf Fo/Ia^ or old Pagaja^ in the Sinus PagaJicuSy or Dcntetr/acus^ or Gulf of /i>m}ro : not far from whence flood old Argot Pe/^Jg/cam ; from which place the Argonauts firft let fail, in that famou*; Voyage for Co/d-os,hy which way the Grant/ Seignior received intelligence from Candia^ and his Ajian and African Dominions. And not far from hence, at the Promontory 6>- ^Aty,therc happened the grcatell Shipwrack we read of; when Xerxes loft five hundred Sail by a Tcmpeft from an Eaft-wind.
It was no hard matter to have a fight of the Grand Seignior, at this place ; for he rode out often, ibr his recreation of hunting and hawk- ing, with great number of Attendants, and Huntfmen, and Falconers, in their proper habits : and alfo went frequently to the great Mojchea. I had a full view of him, as he came out of his Palace, to go unto his devotion. Before he came out, divers brave Horfes richly caparifoned, were mounted by divers of his Attendants, nobly attired, and rode about the (3ourt-yard;fo that he looking out of the window,made choice of which he liked bcft;,and would then make ufe of.
At his tirft appearance abroad, great acclamations were made, low bowings from all, botli near c^nd at a diftancc ; the Streets v. ere made clean, and a Janizary was placed at every corner, to provide,that there might be no hinderance in the wav. The Chiau^e\ rode Before, the Shatters, or great Courtiers, about Twenty four followed on foot ; and immediately, on each fide of hi^ Horfe, walked two chief Janizaries^ with white Feathers, fct in an hollow Pipe before thur Gaps, very large, and fpread, and about a fathom high; which fhaking as they Walked, were high enough, both to Ihade and tan his lace as he rode. Many brave Hories were led aftrcr him, and divers pcrfons folloued.car- rying Cufhions and Pillows to the Mofchea Before he came out of his Palace, I obferved many gallant Perfonsinthe Porch,which the Chiaus^ who walked with me, told me, were perfons of the greateft quality int Turky.
The Grand Seignior was then under Thirty year? of age, well fetjfome- what Ihort necked, inclining to fatneis, his complexion lallow naturally, and much heightned by frequent riding about in thofc hot Countrvs. He hath a very flrong body, and healthful, and is a hard rider ; hath % ftern look, and yet would Ipeak kindly unto perfons, and encourage the people abroad to approach him, taking no delight in the crycs, and frights, and fiymg away of the Inhabitants at the fight of him, or any of his Officers. The Grand Vifier carried divers Chriflian Chyrurgcons with him to Cand/a^m I heard of no Phyfician of Note about i\it Grand Seignior. The Sultan took great liking to a private Turkijh P rieji, vfhom he met withal by chance in Iheffaly^ and made him his Chaplain ; but the report was, that a famous Prielt was coming to him.
Achmet, the Prime Vilicr^ being ablent, the (r/'i^vwi/r/'-/w, or Deputy Vilitr^ difpatchcd all Affairs of State here, and had the bell Houle in the City. The Emjcrour's Refident had three Interpreters, uho, upon all occafions, were made ule of in Addrelles ui to him, and b) u horn we were informed of the moll confidcrable Occurrences; they leirg civil perfons, and good Linguifls.
The
"il
38
The Defer iption of LarilTa and Thcifaly.
The Defcripti07i of Larilla anJ Theilaly.
39
The SuLana was alfo at Larifj much beloved by the Sultan^hy birth ^Cundtot^ httlcofllature, fomeu hat marked with the SmaJl Pox ; ihe was thf n with child, and was to goto lye- in ^x Monajhr^ a great and plcalant Town in Macedonian which being a place we were to pafs proved a great convenience unto us ; For, in order to her better Jour- ney, tlic High-ways were plained, Hills made pafTable, with Broad- ways and Bridges over Rivers, to the great Jjibour of the Inhabitants ; whonotwithllanding were not unready, to make a Bridge fbrfuch great Ones to pafs out of their Country ; for at the fiift approach of the Grand Sejgnior^z great number of the Greeks forfook their habitations,, for tear of him and his Attendants, and left them unto the Turks-, but were re- called again by his command-
Tiie ^rand Seigniurs Son was aUb with him there, about Six years old.
I \Ktni with Ofman Chiaus to fee the Chaymackim't; houre,but efpeciaJiy to hear his Mufick, which was accounted the bell in lurky. Where I heard the loudeft,yet not unpleafant Mufick, I ever met with ,- ten men at once playing in an open high Room upon large Wind-InAruments, which t'lcy mifs not to do at certain hours of the day. - In the Town I alfo heard fome Turki(h Songs, but efpecially concern- ing i^j^j/j Sevi^ the famous Jeivijh Impoftor, who had made a great noife in the World, and how Ci^jjum Bajha fo handled him,that he was glad to tMxv^Turk, This Cufinm BaJJ)a^ is a perfon much honoured by the Turks^ and cryed up for his great Skill and Practice in Phyfick • an Art not much known amongft them. He is now Vifier o{ Erzrum in Afia ; is married to one of the Grand Seignior s Sifters, and lives with lier^ and w^as formerly Fifier of Euda^ and upon that account well known to the Germans, Here I met alfo with a French Book, concern- ing Michael Ciialuy another Impoftor, who had deceived the Em- perour, and the King oi France^ and other Chriftian Princes. Which the Interpreter to the Refident told me, the Turks very much laugh- ed at; and that he was a Grecian born, and not a Wallachtan, Of Faddrj Ottomamo^ who was thouglit to be the Grand Seigniors Bro- ther, now a Dominican Frier, and whom I had feen at Tunno^ I could hear nothing.
' There were many Thoufand Souldiers, andHorfes, In and about the Citv, and Five thoufand Camels for the Service of the Grand Seignior which bein^ of different magnitudes, ages, and the bunches on their backs of different lliapes, and in fome variety of colours, and treading loft, and uith little noife, afforded me a pleafant fight, uhen they were led by my lodging to watering at the Riven
When we read, that Alar domus, the Fer/ian General of the <^rcat Ar- 5ir Walter m}' o{ Xerxesy wintered in Theffldj ; It is no fmall Teftimony of the Ra-vleigh. fruitfulnefs of that Country ; and though the number of men was here very great at this time, yet was there no want of provifion, but all very cheap; in a Vidualling houfe, I could Dine with roafl and bo^ - led, and Sherbet, for the value of Six pence, and at an eafic rate could oblige Turks and Chnjiians Vvith a meal, which they would take very kindly. ^
The Place was alfo extraordinary populous : there being at that time fuch a mixed multitude in it, " Yet was the City in very good order
aiad
and quietncfs. An Officer with a Club in his Hand, accompanied with about twenty Perfons, walking about the Streets, and puniihing all Perfons drunk, tjuarelling, clamorous, or acting a-y thin"- aminll good Manners. o e^ * -
When I was there in September 1^69. it was very hot Weather, and many were fick of Fevers and Agues ; as they were at that time in moft Parts of Europe^ and at my return into' Engl a}/d I found many ianguilhing under Quartan Agues, who had been taken tliercu ith a'- bout that time. They were then alfo in their Vintage, and we had the opportunity of tailing their Muft and New Wine ; and the ffridtcr Turksy who would not be tempted with Wine, would he much dthgh- red, to take a little in the Muft.
During the hot fweating Seafon, we went often to the Barber, who would handfomcly perform his Work, and much to our reirclhmcnt ^ trimming every Man according to the \ afhion of his Country.
The Greeks have a place, of the bredth of a Dollar, Iclt bare upon the topot rhcir Crowns; and then let the Hair grow round it the bredth of two Fingers, more or lels ; alter which they Jhave aJl the reft ot their Head, and wear it bare.
The Croarian, hath one fide of his Head ihorn, and the other fide is neither fliorn nor cut, but the Hair is let to grow as long as it will. The Hmigarian Ihavcs his whole Head, except his Fore-top The Folander , w^ears his Hair Ihort cut, fo as it comes down to tlie middle ot his Fore-head, and the middle of his Ear. The l^urk ihaves his whole Head, except a Lock upon his Crown. The Francks Ihave not their Heads, hut wear their Hair long, as with us, only for the more amicable converfe, and that nothing about them mii^ht be of- tenfive to thole, whom they live amongft, they often tuck it'up under their Caps. The Greek Priefts, alfo neither Ihave nor cut their Hair, but wear it as long as it will grow ; and many of them have thick heads of Hair ; but thole, that have leaft, receive moft rcfrelhment here. The Party to be ffvaved, fits low; and the Barber has the better advan- tage, to fluve much at one ftroke, he lays on very much Soap, and holds his Rafor as a Knife, and in a few" ftrokes finilhes his Work. There is a Vellcl of Water with a Cock hanging over their Heads, which the Barber opens as he pleales , and lets fall the Water ori ihcm.
In one of thcle Barbers fliops in the City oi Larifa I fuw an ancient large Tomb of ftone ol^ajafpis green colour, a nobleMonumcnr, but ta- ken little notice of t]ierc,and the Barber had caufed a hole to be digged thro-.gh the top ftone, and put U ater into it, and made it to lerve him for a Ciltcrn.
I was in lome doubt, how we fhoiild be accommodated for the ex- change of our Ducats , Dollars , and other money we brou^^ht with us ; but we found ready accommodation therein' from Money- changers, wiio lit in the Market-place for fuch purpoles, to change them into Mcdincs, Afpcrs, and live fols Pieces, whereof there \\ as plenty in thole Parts.
The great trading Streets were covered, as in other great Ttirkilh Towns; the Shops are linalh but well furniihed; wherein hang all Commodities, which may be had in a larger manner, if defiretl. The Shop-keeper fits hke a Taylor in his Shop, and io Iclls his Commodi- ties
I i«i wiaa i — i
■I 1 ■IWitti
40
The Defer ipicn c/Lariifa ancH\\c{[AY.
I ■'
^
M
v ■\
M
ties unto hisCliapman,who commonly flands in the Street. 1 or crlicr Commodities,! man riding througli rJie .Streets cries them., and gi\ts no- tice where, and at what rate they may be had.
Though I have been much plea(ed at the fi^^ht of tl\e fine Stables of Horks of manv Princes in Chnjlendom^ as at that of rtio Loutre \\\ Paris. The Vice-Roy's of KipL's. Tlic Duke of S^x.'.>ry's noble Stable at Dref<Jen, and Count WaUeJhxmi'i at Prague m the Lilt ci' which each Horfe hath a Marble Pillar by him, eats his Provender out of a Manger of poliflied Marble upon a Pedeiial of tltc fame, placed in a Niccbio, in which hangs alfo his rack of hammered .'steel, and over his head on one Tide his Pidure as big as the li!e. Yet rhofe gal- lant Horfes, I beheld at Larijfa were furprizing unto me, cholen from all parts of the TurkilhEvn^ixt ; which were ib richly equipped with Bridles and ^addles fet with precious Stones,and withaT'o tender mouth- ed and tradable, that it was a great delight to behold them. I law feme Tartarian Horfes, which arc of fingular efteem, tor hardinefs, lalling, and fwiftnels, but unllghtly, and promile little, and when Cha Gag! Aga, Ambailador from the Cham of Tartary, prticnted Ibme (\i them to the Emperor of (76'/-ak>7;?;, at firft fight [ thought them but a pi- tiful prefent.
The Greek Merchants fome of them learn t!ie Italian Tongue, in order to their Commerce: which makes that Language of good ufe unto a Traveller in thcle parts, where French and Latim are in a manner ufelefs. The Jews fpeak commonly Spaailh, as they do in Macedonia, Ser-via, and Bulgaria j and Iligh-Dutch m Hun- garia,
I was in thejfaly at a very dry f afon, and fome confiderabJe Rivers were low, and fmall ones dry, yet one I obfcrvcd about fevcn Miles on this fide Tornovo, to flow plentifully from under a rocky Mountain ,- not in fmall fprings or dreams ; but the whole bodv of the River came from under the Hill. The Country however in general was ve- ry hot and dry,and I could not but think, what a dif?i;rcnt face it now had, from that, in thetimeof£'f«M//oAr, King oi The/Lily, wiien that memorable deluge happened in this Country, which fome affirm, to havclafted a v/hole Winter; occafioned by fome flopping of the River Peiteus, and its current into the Sea; into which River moftofthe others run, and fo an inundation mull follow in fuch a Country as Thejfaly, which is plain, and encompalfed with Hills. And Ibme alfo conceive, that in the firfl: times all this Country was under water till an Earthquake divided the Mountains of Ofa and Olympus, and made a free pallage tor Peneus, to pafs by Tempe into the Sea. In Mace^io- nia, between Comanavamd Filunm, at a place called Ecciffh Verbeni where I law plentiful Springs of Mineral waters, I had allb a Profped ot two great Lakes ; one whereof the People have a Tradition, that it firlt happened by taking great Hones out of the fide ofa Mountain; whereupon there illued out fuch a flood of water, as to drown the Country about, and to caufe a Lake.
As 1 travelled in Macedonia, the Chiaus told me, that within two days he would ihow mc French men, whereby he meant the Country People ot TheSaly, from fome likenefs of their Caps with fm.all brims, to the little Hats lately in falhion.
The
The Defcnption ofLanfTa and TheiTalv.
■*■;.;■* f
The Thefalians have been a warlike Nation, and are ftill a flout Pet> pie. I heard the Turks complain of' them, as a flurdy and delne- rate People ; and Men, who, if injured, would find opportunity to be revenged : and that divers of the Turks had been lurprized, and had loll their lives by them.
The Country of Tbejfah feemed the more confiderable to me in re- gard that It hath formerly been the Scat of great Adrions, and produ- ced many worthy Perfons ; and particularly, becaulc the tamous Mir- f aerates, the Father oi Phyficians lived and pradrifed here, as miiy be colleded from the Oration of his Son The(falus,znd the Narration of his Life by Soranus, annexed to his Works ; w herein it is delivered That he lived in Thejfaly, and was warned by a Dream to abide in that Coun- try. That the Princes and Rulers of the Barbarous Nations about //- iyria and P^sonia, fent hither to him; as alfo the King of Macedonia. That he dyed in, or about Lariffa. That he was buried between La- rijja and Gyrton, and it may be obferved m the Epidem.ies or BonJ.s of Hippocrates: wherein he (tts down the Particulars of the Diiealiis of his Patients, together with their Names and Places of Habitation" That a great number of his Patients were of the Citv of Lanfa.
Many famous Battles have been fought in the Plains otThejjhly- and a greater than any there might have been, lUheGraaans had acccp- ted of the Challenge of Mardomus, the Perfian General, when he lent unto them, to come out of their faft Places, and fight witli them m 7heply, where there were Plains and open Places enough, wherein to Ihow their Valour,
The Thejfalians are an handfom race of People, having black Hair black Eves, and their Faces of a frefli and florid languine, much like' our frcfli Complexions in England : lb that Strangers much admired tlie Women, and fpoke often of the lelfangue de Grcci, or fair blood ot the Grecians. The Macedonians, who live in hilly Countries, arc ofa coarfer Complexion : and the Moreans ot Peloponnejians, who' live more South-ward, incline unto a fwarthinefs.
Tiiey have always had the name of good Horfe-men, and the Coun- try ftiU abounds in good ;Horfes. They have alfo great Buffalo's cfleemed the largeft in Greece, except thofe of Santa Maura in Ep)- rus. There are alfo large and well-coloured Tortoifes, of a fine yel- low and black ; and efleemed very good meat. But the Turks laugh- ed at the Chrifl:ians, for feeding on fuch Food, where they might have Mutton, Pullets and Partridges.
The Country produces very large, fair, and delicious Figs, Water- melons, the largeft and moft pleafant I have tafted ; which were very refrefhing unto us ; as alfo fair and delicate Pomegranates, Orainges, Limons and Citrons, Vines, which are low, like thofe about Mont- pelher, and not liipported ; but the Branches and Clufters great, and the Grapes as big as good Damaftns,and ofa delicious tafte. The Wine of the Country is rich, but much thereof hath a refinous tafle or tang of the Boracho.
They plant Tabaco, and efteem it better, than what is brought from other Parts, as being more ftrong and pungent. The Fields are fprtad with Sefmum and Cotton Trees; but the Trees grow low, vet ma -e a fair ihow. The Country abounds in Almonds and Olives ;' and thu wrecks delight moft in tlie ripe Olive pickled, as we in the ^rctn.
G ° The
41
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42
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i'^
*
//>e Vefcripion of LanlTa tf«^ ThcHal^.
» >
The Gonrdcs in the Hedges, with their large yellow Flowers, an J the many forts of green Thorns, and ever green Oaks, make the ways
^ THr//<rx coccifera, and Chermes-berry, or the Excretion rcrving for dying, and making the Confedtion of ^/c/;^m^y grows plentifully in thcfc Countries • and with this ^^eus in old Time tinged the Sails, which he prcfcnted lo Thefeus upon his Voyage to Crete- ordering him, if he overcame the- Mimtaure, and returned tortunat- ly, to make ufe of thefe Sails beautifully coloured in token of Vi<aory. Upon the high HiUs grow Afclepias and Helkhonu ; m the ftony Plains air^fum srloiofus, Cyfius, Lavender, Marjoram, Rofemary, and other Iweet fmelling Plants. The Flatanus or Plain-tree grows moft .nir, large and well imtzd'm Macedoma, affording a retrclhmg Ihade j lo that it is lefs to be wondred at, that Hippocrates tound Democritus fitting un- de> a Plain-tree at AUera in Mace^oma. Some ot the feeds and tults 1
brought with me into England. , , • /s •
They ufe much Garlick in moft of their DiiBcs, and their Onions are extraordinary, as large as two or three fair ones with us, and ot a tar better tafte ; being lliarp, quick, and pleafantly pungent, and without any offenfive fmell. Though I were no lover of Onions before yet I found thete exceeding pleafant and comfortable to the Stomach. 1 liey are ufed at mofl Collations, and eaten with B ead in good quantity. I asked a Chhm, then with us, who had travelled through molt oi the Turkijl Dominions, whether he had any where met with fo good O- nions, as thefe of Thejfaly ; who anfwered me, that the Onions ot yEgypt were better, which was the firft time I fenfibly underftood the cxprelTion in Scripture, and ceafed to wonder,wby the IJraehtes lingred after the Onions of that Country.
They have a Fruit which they call Pat/ejan or MeUnzan, between a Melon and a Cucumber ; out of which they make a very pleafant Difli, by taking out the middle or feeds of it, and filling it up with the meatofSawfages, and then pare it, and boy lit. . ^ »
Of the Agents of foreign Countries, there attended on the Cratid Seignior, the Refidenc of the Emperor oi Germany ; the Ambaflador ot Ragufi; and another of Wullachia, which are Amballadors ot the Con- fines;'the AmbafTadors for Trade, refiding zhoMi Conjtantinople^^nd not obliged to keep clofe unto the Sultan. Larip being tuU and pc- ftered with People, the Emperor's Refident defired ot the Sultan _ leave to abide in fome Neighbour Town ; who bade him to make choice ot anv Place, or any Houfe he liked ; which conceflion m.oved him to caft his Eye upon tomovo, a large and pleafant City of Theffaly, about ten Miles Weft-ward from lanfia, and feated near the Hills; where moft of the Inhabitants are Chriftians, there being only three Mefchea's, but eighteen Churches of the Creeks ; whereot the chiefefl, which I obferved, were thefe : the Cathedral Church ot St John, the Church of St. Demetrius, oiCoJmus and Damianm,c\ the Nativity of the blefled Virgin ; of St. Elias ( this is the Habit of their Monks. ) ^wf^ere there is alio an adjoyning Monaftery, feated on the fide ot the Hill ) o{Sx..AnaHafws, of the twelve Apoftles, of St. Is'icholas, {v,\ih a Cu<- vent alio, ) and of St. Anthony the Hermiite. The Bilhop hcreoi is under the Arch-bilhop of Lanfa.
And
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The Defcriptio?i of Lanlla d7/J Thcflah'.
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And I could not but take notice how thefe Eallern Parts o£ Europe abounded with Chriftians of the Greek Church beyond my expedati- on, and fince they are thus to be found in many large Countries. In (Jrcccia^ and the Greek lllands, in the Turkifh Parts of Dalmatia and CroatiUj in Risfcia^ Bofniuy Servia^ thracia^ Sagorjy Eulguria^ Sirfia^ BejfarahiUj Cojfackia^ FoJoliay Moldavia and Wallachiay and the vaft Dominions of the Emperor of Rujfiay they muft needs make a notable part of Chriftendom, and put me more fenfibly in mind of an Expref- (ion of a learned Writer. If we fhouU collell an J put together all the ^ ChriHian Regions in Europe^ which are of the Gtct^k Commurtwrf^ and cn^Hincs. compare them with the Parts prof ejftng the Roman Religion m Europe, we (hould fiJid the Greek /^r to exceed.
In the Wcflern Parts of Europe^ in many Churches the Fonts are flatcly, railed high from the Ground, and to be aicended unto by di- vers Steps; fometime^ covered with large Canopies, or with liigh Pa- vilioos handlbmly carved and adorned. But in the Greek Churches
G i thr;
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.■-1."-
44
u- 1
'•fe^
^
The Vefcriptkii c/LariiTa ^;z^ ThefTaly-
tbc Font or Bafon is generally made of plain Stone, and placed low uDon the Floor of the Church ; and this is more convenient for them, in their baptizing of Infants. For they put the Child into the Water, and are not contented with a mcer fprinklingupon the Forehead cht. Vy\t tiic Pried, a'^cr he hath blefled the Water, and dipped a Cruci- i:x into it three times, he -takes the naked Child by one Arm, and lets If into the Font up to the Wafl, and with his other Hand iaves the Wat-r thrice over its Head ; and this hath been their Way ot bapti- >:snj^formany hundred Years. Nor could that otherwife have happen- rd,\hich IS reported of the Emperor, C^;?/?^;/^'/;^^ the (ixth, Confianti- ml [.xtits^ didus Copronvmus^ quod Infans dam haptizaretur aquam Ja- cram ventri-s folutmte mactdaffet. The dipping of the naked Body m Water being apt to move it. I faw fome of their Children baptized be- foic the Navel Hring was fallen off.
The Fickis about this Tlace are planted with Vines, Cotton and Se^ \jr>:uni. Tlie Empcrors Refident IllHjirifmo S ignore dt Cafa nova, was 'well accommodated here with a tair Houfe, and had thirty nrks and Chriftian^ in his Family, and two Janizaries attending at the Gate, good humored and fair 'conditioned Men, as could be wilhed. The Re- tidcnt was a Milanefe by birth, a grave and fober Perfon, fomewhat melancholy, much addiifted to his Book and reading, but very civil and courteous. He dined and lupped alone by himfelf ; his Secreta- \\\ Interpreters, and others of his Family, had another Place of repaft, and ucre always well provided , and ferved after the Turkijh man- ner.
Tlie AmbalTador alio of /ijg^y^ made choice of the fame Town ,- and
their ibliowers oiten met each other, and many courteous falutes paf- fcd between them ; but they were only by civil Meflagcs, for they ne- ver met, upon ^ punddio, which kept them afundcr ^ the Raguja AtnbalTa<inr protending a right to take the firfl place, he being in the iiualitv of an Amballador, the other but of a Refident ; although he ^ were much dclpiled lor it by the Germans^ and his Mafters looked up- .M, hue ris Gentlemen of the Sette Band/ere, or Perfons that were and hnd been Subjeds and Tributaries under fevcn Mailers, orSove-
rci^a Princes.
I mull not forget Demetrius, a Greek Merchant Qitormuo, in whom I th')Ught I beheld the Humor of the old Greeks^ we were divers times entertained at his Houfe with much generofity, and hearty free- dom. He defired us toenjoy his Houfe freely, and to be merry after the Mode of our own Countries: and, as an eipecial favour, brought his two Daughcei-s to bid us welcome: and we took the liberty, alter the Cuftom of France, Holland and England, to falutc them ; they were li:ndfomly attired, after the manner of their Country ^ their Hair brayded and hanging down their back ; their Shooes or Slip- pers painted, their Nails coloured of a reddifh co-lour with Cnk or AlcMna ; the Leaves of which Plant, powdred and fleeped in Water and Wine, and layed a Night upon their Nails, leaves this Tindure, and is much ufed in Turkey ; wlfere fome delight alfo to colour the Mains and Tails of their Horfes. The Gru:cian% of Scio alfo, who wear Gloves ( it being a rare tiling to fee any facte ) do colour their Gl jves alio upon thole Parts which cover their Nails. Cfja is a great Commxoditv in the Turkijh Dominions, brought out of Arabia and
• ^gypt
^^ .
% ^
The Defcription o/LarifTa ^//^ThefTak
45
^gypt, and to be bought in every good Town or Fair. I brought a Pound of it Home \s ith me , which loft not its tincturing Qua- lity, ^
The Gr^vcian Countries, which I pafled, are extremely altered from that Stare, whereof we read in ancient Hirtory : as having luffercd Ipoiling Incurlions froai many Nations, and a fatal Conquell: by the Turks ; \A\Q utterly deftroycd many Towns and famous Places, and changed the Names of moil ; not leaving the old Appellations unto Rivers, which mofl laftingly maintain their ancient Nam.es. 1 paf- led moft of the great Rivers in Macedonia, the Axms, En^onus and Aliacmon^ which have now Names of no affinity unto themu The Ri- ver Peaeus, fo famous in the old Poets, hath loft its name , together with Aptdanus, Enipeus, and others, that run into it. The Turks call Lariffa^ Jeni-Saharyiind Tbefaly, Comenol'itaru
SOME
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ft
SOME
OCCURRENCIES
AND
OBSERVATIONS
IN THIS
JOURNEY-
IT is no unpleafant fight to behold a new Scene of the World, and unknown face of things, in Habits, Diet, Manners, Cuftoms and Language. A Man feems to take leave of our World, when he hath palled a Days journey from Rai> or Cemerra : and, before he comes to Buda, feems to enter upon a new Stage of the World, quite diflrrent from that of thefe Wellern Countries : tor he then bids adieu to Hair on the Head, Bands, Cuffs, Hats, Gloves, Beds, Beer: and en- ters upon Habits, Manners and courfe of life ; which with no great va- riety, but under fome conformity, exttnd unto Chtnj, and the utmoft
Thouc^h we were pretty well fecurcd by Authority for fafe Travel, vet we were not without fear of the Hufiars, till we came to Effeck Bndae over the River Dr:ivt4s : for they are adlive Perfons ; and un- dcrftanding the Language, will boldly range about tor Booty as far as that noted Pafs ,• and, knowing all By-ways, will rob and fpoil whom they meet, efpecially the Turkish Subjects.
Nor were wc without fear aMb of Gypfies, who are ftout and bold, and fome of them have been noted Robbers. There are many of them m HutiTaria, Sema, Bulgaria, Macedonia ; and fome I faw at Larijfa, and other Parts of Tkefialy. They are in moft Towns, and live by la- ht ur and ha ndy-cralt Trades ; many of them colour their Hands and teet'of a reddiih colour, with Cna, and think thole Parts fuffer Icfs from the Cold thereby. Some Gypiy Women colour the ends ot their Hair alfo. Though they be remotely difpc-fed, yet they are thought to have had their beginning about Wallachia, and the adjoining Parts, many of them are conceived to be Spies unto the Turk. A little be- fore I came to Leopnldjiadt, bv Freijhdt, a great drove of thcna appear- ed in thole Parts ; which the People (ufpcdkd to be Spies of the Fijier of Ruda, to t.'.ke notice of the Stare of thofe Parts, and how that Fort proceeded.
Travel-
.1
The Vefcription of LarilTa anJ TheiTalv.
Travelling from Bekjade into Servia, we were in (omc danger of being robbed : for we perceived tlirec Horfe-men to ride very fall af-' ter us- and, when rhev had over-taken us, they rode about us, wav- in'T their Lances, and difcharged their Piftols; but the Chiaus perceiv- ing them to be Spahies, Ihowed his Feather, and faid to me, difckarge one of your Pitlols at random, and let them know, v/e are not unarm- ed • at which thev went otl^ and we faw diem no more.
CaravanfarS^.^C ban's, or Places of pnblick Lodging, built by Bene- faAors we liked not io wrll as private Houle!> ; and therefore, being but fevv in Company , leklom lodged in them , for they are wide Rooms, and we muil provide for our lelves therein ; and lometimes thev are dangcroullv leatcd, fo that it was not fit to adventure our lelves therein, for fear of' being rob' ed ; for tliougli Robberies be levcrely runiihe'd, yet are thev frequently commitrtd; and Gypfies are wdl ver- fed in that Trade ; and theref(^re, in order to t!ie fafety of Travellery, Drummers are appointed in dangerou, PalBges; and in Macedmh, in a narrow Pafs, 1 law an old Man beating a Drum upon the ridge of a Hill; whereby v,e had notice, that the l^ailage was clear and free fj-om
Thieves.
We had the advantage of good Accommodation for Travel, for par-
tinc^ from Comora, our Boat was towed by a Saick of twenty fbur Oa'rs ; HuH(iarians rowing upon one fide, and Germans on the other ; till we came to ■Vfotd\ the Frontier Town, where we had a Turkijh Convoy; vvho laftning our Boat to their Sakk with eighteen Oars, rowM "down the Da>wbe, we carrying the Eagle on our Flag, and the Turks the double Sword and Half-moon, and palTed by divers remark- able Places to Bucla, from whence we. had good Accommodation for Travel to Belgrade, by open Chariots, with two, three or four Horles on breaft ; which with great fpeed conveyed us through that pleafanc plain Country, and from thence through Servia, and other Provinces, we were furnilhed with \erv good Horfes, which would travel at a good rate tweinv Miles in a Stage, and were very lure of foot; where- of [ had '^ood experience, v\ lien in fome Parts we travelled over great Hills unequal and craggy Places, and over the bare Rocks. They are verv free, and thereiore the Owners ot the Horfes took acceptions at our Spurs, which are leldom ufed by them, and the Turks bd none but what we brought, and gave them. They are very tradable and tender m.outhed ; and when we mounted or alighted, would hand- fomlv apply themlclves to fuch Places ; a-d when we walked, lome of them would follow us without leading. They have a lighter and lef- fer Shcoe than our Horles ; and when they have ihod one foot, they take up the foot againft it, and letting the other upon a Block ot three inches high, they pare it. ^ r , ,- ^ .
They have very good Horles in molt ot thefe Countrys, and very fleet, but thev never dock tiiem, but their Tails grow out at length, and ibmetimes thev handlbmlv make them up : and in their Journeys thev often alight from them, and Itrongly pull at their Fore-top or forehead-lock, and think that doth much refrelh them, wliich the Strangers who travel here call Croatian Provender.
The BajLi of Icmelwar prelentcd Ba^o:zi with a Horfe, which Ra- •ft'i llif'htinii cut ofi'th.e Horle's fc'ars. Main and Tail, and lent him ^■^ ^ ^ back
47
^1
"6
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•-M^-
48
. !
!l
The Defcriptipn of LanlTa and ThefTal
back again. This perhaps would have been thought an Ornament to an Horfe in England -. but the BaJ^a took it as luch an affront to h^ that ht never ceafed from ftirring up the Sultan, and other Princes a^ gainft him, and never forgave the Injury, but by the help of the Turk, Tartar, Emperor, Pols and Ragotzis own Country- men alfo he wrought at laft his Ruine. '
For their feeding, they make no high Mangers or Racks, to pull down thir Pood; but, obferving the Rule of Nature, lay their Hay low before them, and almoft even with the Ground ; which in long neck- ed Animals, may be the mod commodious wa}-, they are lodged hard, and often with little covering. At Lari(fa, where the Town was pe- flcrcd with Horfes and Camels : the Yards of the Houfes were full of them, and Places made at the bottom cf the Wall for their Food.
In Caravanfara's the Hones are tyed to a ringle, faflned unto the fide ot a long Place, a little elevated, upon which the Travellers take tlicir rell: ; and the Hay was laid a little below our feet, whereon the Horfes feed.
They plow more with Oxen than Horfes, and efpecially with Buf- falo s ; and have great variety cf Ploughs and Carts ; fome whereof' I could not but take notice of in Macedonia, made with Wheels, not confiding of Spoaks, but of folid Wood, in the whole piece; whether fo contrived for ftrcngth, in thofe rocky Countries, where they mull llrike and force upon fuch inequalities, I cannot tell.
We were furniflied with fmall things to oblige the People w here we palled : and in Houfes wfiere we cntred, many would welcome the Emperor's Courier, and ask him what he had brought for them. We pleated them with Sciflors, Knives ; and they would be content, if we gave a Glove to one, and the fellow to another. To the Women wc gave imd.\\ pieces of European Coines ; and I was much thanked bV a Bulgarian Woman, for a bright cinq fols piece, which fhe added to the drefs ot her Head, over her Fore-head, with other Coins flie had there before ; fome of tliem wearing Duckets of Gold, and Pearl, and Stones of value upon that Part, which make no unhandfom (how!
Being only careful to keep our felves from Thieves, we expedted no fuch trouble, as we found from Wolves and Dogs, in our Journey about the Mountains in Servia ; and efpecially in large Woods, we were continually alarmed by Wolves, efpecially in the Night ; when they feldom cealed to howl in great numbers, and not far from us ; {o that wc were forced to be folicitous in our Guard, and to keep c'jofe together. And as the Wolves were troublefome. To alfo the great number of Dogs in thofe Parts were very offenfive to us. As foon as we came near any Town, or left it. they came out, running at us, barking and biting the Horfes legs, and in Houfes would be bcrking' and fnarling, fo that without a Cudgel it was not fafe going into the Yard. And it leeras impoflible, that thefe Towns fhould be furpnzed by the moft filent Enemy , without having good notice thereof by Dogs : and lure, they are kept to this intent. For as foon as the Sun fets tiiey Liegin to bark ^and ceafe not till the Morning. The Town of St. Maloi m France is alfo guarded fomewhat after this manner, where they turn the Dogs out of the Town at Night, and are as fccure there-
Vefcription of LarilTa tf/zi/ThclTaly,
by, as if they had an army of Watchmen to guard them. Some liich trouble from Dogs I remembred, that I had met with at tke rtrong Town oi' Aumara,'''Ahen I came into the Town about Midnight, which was lb lull of Dogs fiercely barking and running upon us, that to fav- our lelves, we were fain to take flicker in the Cvrps de guard, till a lodg- ing was provided for us.
I could not but pity the poor Chrift.ans, feeing un.Icr what fear they lived in thole Parts; when I obfer\ed them to make a way, a-. foon as they perceived us coming towards them. In Alacc4onia the Men and Women would betak -• themfeh es into the Woods to avoid us ; and we took the pains fometimes to ride after them, to undeceive them of their fclfy and necdlefs Frights.
But tliat which moved me moft, was the pitiful Sjjedacle of Cap- tives and Slaves, which are often met with in thofe Countries ; toge- ther with the variety of their hard Fates and Accounts, how they tell into that Condition ; fome by Treachery, fome hy Chance of War ; others by Plagiary and Man-flealing Tartars, who plentifully furnifh the Turkilh Dominion ; Ibme fixed to one Maftcr, other > having been fold unto many, and at diflant Places. But their Condition is mofl ikfperate, who are Slaves to the Court, and belong to the Grand Sei- irnior: for they ure never to be reJeemed. Of which kind I met with one at Eyihugia in Macedonia , attending at the Poft-houfe ; who though he had no hard Office, yet was extremely dejedled upon this mistbrtune of Non-rt-demption.
In Thefaly alfc I met with one Sigifmund, who had been a Slave to feveral Perlbns, and in feveral Countries. He was an Ilmgarun, bora at Gran, and taken at the Battle of Barachan, under Count forchatz, in the lafl Wars; firft ferved a Turk, then fold to a Jew, who proved a hard Mailer, then to an Armenian; under whom he fo well acquitted himlclf, that his Mailer gave him his freeLbm, and he made a Ihift to tome to Ear ! fa, where tlie Emperor's Refidcnt entertained him. I was very much pleated with his Converfition, being a worthy, honed and aoo'd natured Man ; and had maintained his Chriftianity in his feveral Fortunes. He fpoke Uunianan, Sclwvoftian, Turkijl, /Armenian arA La- tin : fhew'd me the Draughts of many Monaderics, Abbies, Mojcheas, and coofiderable BuiUiings in Armenia-, Terfia and Turkey : and I hope by this time he is in his own Country. , , _ .
The Turks, who are well acquainted with the Captives of feveral Na- tions, make obfervations of them : fo they fay, a RuiHan is bed for the Oar,'a Gcorj^un makes a good Courtier, and an Alhunun, a good Cnun- fellor. A Turk in our company, obferving a Georgian Captive much dejecicd at his Condition, encourag-'d him, and bid him be of good cheer ; telling luin he might come to be a great Man, and one ot the
bed in Turky. ^r ■
The tird time I went to have a flglit of the Grand Seig>i/rr, nrrr.u>tA Ckiaus made no great hade forward, and when I asked Iiim tlw reafon, he replied, I take no great pleafure to be too near him : and afterwards when he talked of tome iij/j'j-,who had been drangled, and I added, that in this relpccl he lived more Imppily than any Balii : he laid , fuch things mud be patiently put up, all our Lives are in th? Su/ra>/ 1 hands : m your pettv Kingdoms and States, Men are Tryed and O^nvi-
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50 The Vefcripticn cf L^nd^i ^;;^ Thcl?alv,
<5ted, but our great Empire cannot be fo maintained, and if the S^Itirn fiiould now fend for my Head 1 muft be content to lay it C( v p ] ^n- ently, not asking wherefor^: and I remember his Words were that in this Country we mufl have, patienzafin a perJer la tcjla^ e pot pa len- za y patience even to the lofs of our Heads, and patience alter that.
We had frequent Memento's of Mortality, by Graves and Scpu'- chres, as w^c pafled ; efpecially near Belgrade. For the Turks arc com- monly buried by the High-ways : yet their Tombs are not ordinarily fplendid, confiding only of a Stone ered:ed at the Head and at the Feet : yet ibmefet up Stones of two, three or four }ards high. SV.-rae have a Turbant carved upon the Stone , at the Head ; and otlier^ fet up two Pillars of Stone; fome proceed farther, and raiic the Sepulchre?, as with us, and afterwards place two PilJars upon them, one at the Head, and another at the Feet. At Sc(p/a I Jaw fair ones, after this manner, and two Sepulchres m one o[~ tlum : Lut thebeftway I obferved in the fe Parts, is by building a Pa\illion lup- ported by four Pillars. As we traveled to the South from Jagodn.i in Servia^ I faw upon the fide of a Hill, a large Turkt/h Tomb, about four yards long, and a fquare place covered by it, m !uc!i the Chiaus told me was the Tomb of one ot their Saints, and accordrnglypcrtbrm- ed his Devotions at it, and at other Places : on Thurfday Nights and Friday's, I obferved the Women to vifit the Sepulchres, and pay thesr Devotions at the Tombs of their dead Friends.
This Gigantick Saint that lay buried here, was certainly a fit Man in his time to wield the holy Club, with which the Turk does propo- gate his Religion and Dominion, and if he were as long as his Tcmb, he w*as as formidable a Perfon as any of the Patagnman Grants painted upon the Southern Part of divers Maps of America with long Arrou s in their Throats. I mulb confefs it Icems flrange to me that the Sta- ture of Man ihould be extended to that height, Mr. IVoorl^ an ingeni- ous Perfon, who hath made very fair and accurate Maps of the Stre ghts oi Magellan^ the Iflands therein, and thcCoail from the River of //.//^ to Baldrjia^ in the South-fea, told me that he had feen divers Graves in the Southern Parts o{ America near four yards long, which lurpri- zed him the more, becaufe he had never feen any American that was two yards high, and theretbre he opened one of thefe long Sepulchres from one end ro the other, and found in it a Man and a v\ oman, fo placed, that the Womans head lay at the Mans feet, and lb might rea- Ibnably require a Tomb of near that length.
But to return into the rode for our diverfion, we fometimes met .\i\^\Turki[l) Fairs, which are ordinarily kept in fome large ground, enclofed and divided into Streets and Pafles, according to the variety of Commodities to be fold, where a Man may recreate him-itlt with multiplicity of Fripperies, and things different from thofe of our Parti, and cannot want variety of Mufick ; which, though but mean, proved fome diverfion unto us. The lirft Fair we met with, uas at Lefcoa or Lejcovia^ upon the River Lipenzza in Servia.
It was no fmall comJort to us, to find the Country fo free from tlie Plague, wluch we only met with at Prejiimi^ a large Town on part of the Plains otC^Z/t'rj, when wc came into that Place, we were enter- tained m a very good Houfe^and brouglit into a large Room, v\ eii ac-
coramudatcd
A Journey from Vienna to Larilla.
commodated with Carpets and other Ornaments ; where we found a Turk lying fick of the league. The Chiam^ after the Turkijh Humor, made nothing of it ; but fome others were not fo contented ; and there- fore we removed and travelled in the Night, till we came to a Gyp- /ies Houle amongft the Hills, where we were well accommoda- ted.
The Turks were much pleafed to fee me write; when I came into a- ny Houfc, I pulled out my Paper-book tofttdown what I oblcrved ; which when they perceived, thev would come about me, taking no- tice of the Paper, and binding of the Book, wondring to fee me write fo fad, and with fuch a Pen, which was made of a Gooie QuUl, they ufually writing with a hard Reed,cut like our Pens. Many carry about them an handfome brals Ink-horn, which they hang by their fides ; their Ink is good. Paper Irnooth and poliihed ; whereon they will write very fairly, as I ha\'e to (how in t\\Q Sultans Pals, which I brought home with me.
When I found occafion, I ufed to look upon fome Maps, which I carried with me: whereat Ofman Chiaus fmiJcd, laying, there is no de- pending upon Maps ; they let down only great Towns, and often taile- ly. Chiaufes are able to make the bell Maps, who pals their Days in travelling Countries ; and take notice of all Places, and know their Turktjh Names ; and in many particulars I found fome truth in his Words ; for the Maps of Hungary are not exad: ; thole oiServia^ Bul- garia^ Maceionia and Thejfaly very imperfed:. In upper Hungary, many Towns are omitted, many ill- placed ; in the lower alfo not a few. The Danuh leerrfs to fetch about too much to the South-well, before the Tibifcm enters into it. In Servta^ Hijfargick is placed too £ir from the Danule, which runnes by it. I find no mention of Pro' cupia or Vrchoop, o^ Lefcoa or Lefcovia, confiderable Towns ; the laft upon the winding River Ltperizza: not di Kaplanly or Tigres Town, in Macedonia; not o( A'upruly or Bridge-Town; not of Vrama^Pyrlipey Comonava^ Eccijfe Verbeni; nor of the Lake Petriski and OJlrova, not far from it; nor oi Egrihugta, Sariggiole, Sarvizza; nor ot the River Injecora near it ; nor of Ale If on, nor Tornova in Thejfaly, a handlbme confiderable City. And he tloat travels in Macedonia, will never be a- ble to reconcile the Pofitions of Rivers and Towns to their ufua] De- Icriptions in Maps, although not long ago there have been large om^s publilhed of Greece,
I took great pleaiiire to converfe with Chiaufes, efpecially if they were of any years ; for they fpeak divers Languages, and have feen much of the World ; are commonly good Company, and able to give account of many things. OJmjn Chiaus, who travelled with us, was a- bout fifty years of Age, fpake Turkijh, Sclavonian and Italian : a llouc and faithful honeft Perlbn, very cleanly and neat .• he told me he had travellf^d the greatelt part of Turky, and growing old feated hunlelf in Buda, as a Chuus to the ri/ier ; whicli place pleated him better than any .1 Turky: he took a civil farewel of mc at 5/^^j, bringing me out o\ the Gates, and with many a Dias willied me a happy retura into rry\ Countrv;and indeed, in all my Journey I met with tair carnage, ^nd civil ulage ; when I came Into any Room where the Turks w ere fitting they wouki lalute me, and couchini^ my hand, require mc to
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7/;e Defcription o/LanfTa tfw^ThclTalv.
fitdovtn with them, then offer me O^^*^, and Ibmetimes Tahaco, and at Meals invite me to eat heartily; only in fome places, the Boys, and meaner fort of People would calJ me Safhlu gaur, or haired Infidel. And a Jew at Larijfa, whom I had employed to buy ibme httle things for me ; and I faying, they were too dear, gave me feme ill Language, which fodifpleafed fome that were by, that if the Cran/^ Se-gmor had not been in perfon in the Town, they would have taught him other
manners. rr i a
The Turks took much Tabaco in the Countries which I palled, and many carried little bags thereof by their fides, which they take in pipes of an ell long, made of an hard reed, and an earthen head at the end, laying one end on the ground, and holding the other in their mouthes. I did feldom take any ; but to comply with their kinJncfs, I u oulJ not rcfufe it ; and by reafon of the length of the pipe, it was cool, and lefs diilurbing ; they take it alfo often in fnuff. Seignior Gahriel^ the Empe- ror's Courier would tell them many ftories and while he was fpcaking^ they would come about him, and liften very attentively : and he would pull out his fnuff box, and put fnuff powder into theu- nofes, which tliey would take very kindly. They would be always gazing upon the Emperor's Armes cut in a Stone, which he wore upon his breaft ; whereupon he would take occafion to magnifie the Emperor, defcnbe the multitude of Provinces fubjed: unto him ; and any thing that might confer unto his honour, whereof they would take great notice.
I liked well the ncatnels and cleanlinefs of the Turks^ which we con- verfed with, and their wafliing of their feet, hands, and faces, though they had fome purifying conceit thereof; while we travelled, the Chiam^ at the fight of a Spring, or clear water, would often alight, and wafli himfelf ; and every morning was very curious in winding up his Turbant, and combing of his beard ; and would ask me, whe- ther it were well done. When they go to the houfe of office , they carry a pitcher of water with them; they affcd: privacy when they make water ; which they perform, retting upon one knee, and ftretching out the other leg. Walking in Larifa with the Chtaus, the Streets being narrow, and full of people, and remembring the fad fate of Vincent k Blanc, who loft his liberty, befides other misibrtuncs, for piffing over a Turktjh Saints head, who lay interred in a place, he little fufpcded \ I asked him, where I might make water without of- fence,who anfwered me grumblingly at fir(l,but afterwards direded me to a place, and flood at a little diftance, to fecure mc from any afifont. And at another time while I travelled in an o^nCdefcbe or Chariot by Moon-light, I made water over one fide thereof, to avoid being troublefomc to the reft in ingaging them to ftay for me till I alighted and wentafidc or retard their journey in the night ; but one who layed down by my feet took notice of it to me with a great deal of regret, and and though out of the rcfpe<a he profefTed to bear me, he was rcfolved not to divulge it. Yet he wondered I would venture the lofs of my credit in fuch a matter.
Some experience we had in our return of the Turkifh Juftice, at £- qrilngia, in Macedonia ; for travelling irom Sanggiole over high Rocks, we met with a Turktjh Aga before our arrival ; who, having a nume- rous train, had taken up all the Horles at Egrihugia ; lo that we could not be readily fupplied ; and therefore intended to ndc our Horfes
another
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The Defcripion o/Larifla ^WThciTalr.
another Stage, the way laying now in the Pliin, and our Horfes rtrong and able , wc fct foru'ard on rhc lame Horfes ; but before we were got out of the Town, wc were flopped, and carried betorc the Cun/r, by the PolVmafter; \\hoalla1ged ngainft us, that we were injuricus unro him, in that we paiTcd by, without taking Horfes at his Houfe ; he being allowed by the GrjnJ Seignior, whole Servant he is, lo much for every Horle he provides ; and that none was to provide Horfes -n that place, but himfelf ; fo that he was damnified and had no prcft coming unro him. ;
The r^/ir/i/.' tlierefore confidcring of the bufinefs, and fitting cro(^;- h^ipd upon his Carper, and lenning his elbow upon four or five Folio Books, which he had bv him ; comn^anded his Servants to fill every one a diih of Cofee. The Chium, in our defence, urged, that we had bufinefs of concern; thatweliad i\\^cbAymacham\ Letters; and were emplo}'cd trom the Grank Seigriicr to tlic Emperor of Germany \ that he Inmfclf was a Chiaus to thc/^/,/^r oi Buda, u hither he was tocondu\lt us, and tha.t no man could or ought to ftop him • whereupon the Cu- dih faid, the Chiaiu m.uft not be hindred in his journey, nor the Poll- mailer be unconfidered ; and fo prelcntly called for the Poft-maflcrs Book, and vvi:h his pen, made of a reed, fet down a Sultani^ie to be al- lowed him in his accounts to the Tefrerdur, and bade us good morrow, and willicd us a good journey.
In the £.'V/-^Of J// Tz/ry^i/Z^ Dominions, which I pafled, I could not but take notice of »:hc great number of Chrillians ; for, excepting great Ci- ties, or where the Sou^Jiery refide, they are generally all Chnftians ; whereof the g-eat body is of the Greek Church, who live patiently un- der the Turktjk toleration. If there iliould happen any confiderablc commotion among the Turktlh powers ; it is highly probable, they would fit ftili, and be little active; ar^d if any Forces of the Latme Church ihould attempt the Conquefls of thcfe parts, in all probability they would find very little alliflance from them, and I fear they would rather adhere unto their Turkijh Mafters.
Though Aug4Jhis thouglit it a point of wifdom, to put lome limit unto the Roman Empire, yet I do not find the Turks are of his iudg- menr, but ftill endeavour to enlarge their Dominions, and when Iconfi- der that people, their hardy education, fober courfe of life, and obe- dience to their Superiors ; that no Bafacan eafily intend a revolt, Lut fome others will difcover him, in hope to obtain his place,cr fome great preferment ; and that they fo puntSually obfcrve the duty of their Charges; I am apt to think, or fear, if he, who puts bounds to the Sea, and faith hither thou flialt come and no further, doth not, out of his great mercy, put a Hop to their further incurfions, they may pro- bably obtain and conferve a tar larger Empire, and even all ^Europe, un- to the VVeflern Ocean.
Certain it is that they are unfatisned with their prefcnt bounds and look beyond Ilungana, and I have heard them lay, we muft in due time come to Beutch, for \o they call Vienna, and try our fortunes again.
At this day the Star and Half moon are above the Crofs, upon the Steeple of the Cathciiral Church of St. Stephen, in the Emperor of Crr- ma}tv\\s\xx\\>Qv\^\QiX.y o\ Vic^fna : and it grieved me to lee in all chc Coniincs a lort of Crofs which our H-raiUs do net dream of, v\Iuch is
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54
A Journey fromY'icm^i to Jvariila.
a Crofe Lunated after this manner, U hereby the Inhabitants as they te- tifie tiieir Cbriftlanity, lb they acknowledge the Turkijh^cv^^T.
ii
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A Crof> u'lth Half-mootT^ fet over the Churches m the Country wliich pa'^ cth contribution to the Turks in Hungary, , , ^, ,
The Star ai:d Hilt-mcon upon the Steeple oi St. Stephens Churck
at yiC'in.u
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HUNGARY.
AT^D FROM THENCE TO
VIENNA.
BEING at Kontara, and having fatisfied my curiofity as far that wav as the Chriftian Dominions extended. I purfued my in- tention of feeing the Copper, Silver and Gold Mines in Hun- crary - and being unwilling to return again to Preshurg fo tar about to^pt' into the road towards them ; I attempted a nearer paflage, althouahl'iere he few who go that way. And therefore I travelled alontJ the North ihoar of the Illand of Schut, till I came to the Con- fluence of the River VVjag and Damhe, and then pafled over to a For- tification railed fince thelaft War, called Gutta ; it lies in a Manih around between a branch of the Damh, the ff^^jg, and the Swartz, vv-h-p a mile of Newbeujel ; which ^\e plainly faw h'om the Steeple ot tbc Church at Gutta, and could diftingulih the buildings within it; as tlic B ilfJs Pala c formerlv belonging to the Arch Biihop ot Freslurg-, The C'lurch in tlie middle of the Town; the Tower to the Jf^oske,ind othc'-s Bit this nearnefsto Seivbenjel rroved not only dangerous, but .:•. ftiuarive to it in the beginning of the year 1685. after that the Ti'rks had lent great Kecruits from Bu(/.rAor the Count ot Zal>or having burnc the SubuK^s of JSlewkeufd and taken fcveral Pnfoners ; the Turks to rcvcniic it made an cicurfion, and burnt the Town ot Gnttj, and ^ p«c
55
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A Journey from Kom:in to the Mine-TowJis in Hungary.
put all the Inhabitants to the Sword. Their Boats here ire of one piece ofwood,in which notwithftanchnsthey venture themlehes.and pals the greateft Rivers with them; in mts Fort were i^o men commanded by Captain Matthias Fruhvcurdt. ..From hence by Forchatzw^Q^mQ to Schella^ where tjiere i$ another Fort built to hinder the Turks from pafTing the River Waag^ for hereabouts the TJtJrs broke over, burned and ruined the whole Country about in the late war, in iuch manner, that it remains ftill defolate ; at half a miles diftance from this place is a hole in the Earth which burns like Solfaterra by l^aples. From hence wc went to 5ci7/«/.^ a large Fort and built long fmce to command the River and the Country about. There is a Tower in the middle, four Baftions and many good pieces of Cannon. At the entrance there hanges a great Rib, a Thigh-bone and a Tooth, which I judged to be of an Elephant, having feen the Skeleton of one : and alfo iuch bones asthefe hang up before the Emperor's Houfe at La-xjmhourg ; thole bearing the name of the bones of a great Heathen Virgin ; and thefe of a Gyant. We came afterwards to Leopoljladt ; a noble r^u^ar For- tification with fix Baftions, where the Young Count de Sonchei com- manded, to whom I delivered Letters, and received many favours from him. Afterwards I pailed the River and came to Fretjia'^ a large fair Town but lately burned by the Turk, Count Fcrchatz harh a handlbme Caftle here, anJ a large Houfe in the Town, whereof I took the
draught.
The Lutheransh^AzXh a School or College here, but ruined with the reft of the Buildings. They arc Tributaries to the r«r/f, paying yearly eight Hungarifche^ almoft four pence of our money, for every head, whether of Man, Woman, Children, Sheep, Oxen, or Ffcrfes. The Children are educated to hardfhip, and the Women feldom marry twice. They bathe much, and ufe fweating naked in Stoves, holding their feet in warm water. They ufe Cupping-glalles alio very mucli and fcarifications. In the Convent of the Franctjcans were onely twelve Friars left ; and the Roman Chriftians in thefe parts have few other Priefts but Monks.
Two Hungarian miles from Fr'ieflat lies Banca^ where in a low ground near the River are fifteen Baths ; into three of which the River- water is now entred,the River Waag continually wearing out its banks by reafon of its rapid courfe. Twenty years fince there were alfo hot Baths on the other fide of the River, but are now covered with the cold ftream. Thefe Baths leave a white fedimtnt in all places, and tinge Copper and Silver immediately as black as Ink : Hard by thefe Baths is a Quarry of Stone, and fome Veins cf Chalk, which were ve- ry pleafing to behold, the Chalk being of all colours except green, and the colours fo finely mixed, as a pamting or marble Paper doth not equal it.
We being here upon the i8 oi March, and the weather very cold, had no thoughts of bathing in fo open a place ; though in lome of them we faw Women and Cljildren ; and the //w/^r who drove our Chariot hither, after we had fuppcd, ^'cnt out, and in a vei y hard froft pulled offhis clothes in tke open Meadow atnudnight,and bathed him- fcif in one of thole Baths.
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Mirch the zi. Graf Souche^ lent us Gerry:an Mufqueteers to convoy us through the Contriburion Ci)untry, and defend us in our travels ; wc piifTed bv /?//>7/r/% and a Callle it Docatzi, belonging to Baron Berrnr:^ and came at night to Trpoickmvi\xm rlie River N/tra, where the Town with the Church were burnt in the lull war, and had not well recover- ed it iMf again. A mile from hence at Be///iz are aJlb hot Baths. The next day bvC/^/'/%thc fnhabitnnts of which place were all carried a- way Captives in the laft Wars ; and through a great wood by Hacl> ir.yc", where the hihabitants were moll Gernja^^s, We came to Semo- ir.'/r fcatcd upon the River Crj;?, where is a CalUe upon a Rock, but the Town is Tributary to the 7//r/'i, and they often vifit it. Ahrchz^. We palled the River Gran early in the Morning, and came among tlie Hills xoFfcdrytz, bv which Toun runs a Iwitt ftream very lervi- ccal>lc totliem, which helps to move their Engmcs enipKn-ed in the pounding, walhing and melting of the vSiivcr-ore. We tra\elleu over a Mounnin called Hell, and canrte to Schcnivitz, the grenteit of the Mine-tow ns in fti^ngary : and where great quantity of Silv cr-ore is e\ e- rv day di^^ged. The Town is well built, hath three fair Churclics in it, tlicgreaten: part of the Inhabitants are [.utherans. There are alfo three Caftlcs here ; the old Caflle in the Town, w here there is Wind- Mufick at fix every morning, and at twelve, and at fix at night. %. ThcNew-Caftlc, iouilt by a Lady, who removed the Gibbet from this Hill, and left a fair building in lieu of it. The third is on a high peak, where there is a continual watch kept co dilcover the approach of the Turks, who immediately give notice of it by the Ihooting ofFa Culve- rin. The Streets lie up and down Hill, the Country hereabouts being
all very uneven. • i j
The''re are very many Mines here, and many adventurers are induced to try their fortunes bv the good fuccefslo many have had : tor if they find d Vein of Ore in anv realbnible time, before they have quite Ipenc their Stocks in digging, the\- may probably expect great profit.
Thcfe M-ncs amongft others are very remarkable; the Windjchacht' Miyfe, the Tr/nitv, that of St. Bc-.terUa, St. Joh>f, Muthnis, and one called t!ic 'd\ree vr/;?^^; but the chieieft and moft wrought arc thole oilfhu/fchch and'Tri^ify, Tr'imty-Mir.e is (eventy fathoms deep, built and kept open with under-work at a great expence, much o{ this Mine bein'-^ in an earthy foil. The Oe of it is much efteemed. and
!
IS commcniv ot'a black colour covered \\\i\\ a white Earth or Clay , fothat the llrcams where tliey work it bccoiT!e milky and whitiih,and is that lulftancc I luppofe which is called Lac Lmrcc, ok the Milk of the Moon or Silver. Divers Veins m this Mine lie North, and other rich Veins run to the North- Eaft. When two Veins crols one another they efteem it fortunate ; lb that all Veins of Ore keep not the lame point even in the fame Mine, wliich would he an help to difcover them; but thev have-no certain wav to know either which way they run,or where they arc, till b\' induftrious pcrlcvenng in the labour of the Mines they are at lart found out. They ufe not the rirgula dnma, or forked Hazel-ftick to dired them, havini2; no opinion o? it (as 1 obfervcd they had at the Silver Mine at Fnlwi in Mifnia, where \ alio learned the ulc thereoO but dig alwavcs as the Adventurers defire. Tliey Ihew'd me one place, which thev' had digged ftreight on fix years, when the Ore was but two fathom.s diftant from the place where they Hri); began :
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A Journey from Komara to the MineTowns in Hungar}'. 5 y
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58 A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Tmn^ in Hungarv,
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and in another place they digged twelve years outright, and at !a(l found a Vein which in a fliort time paid their charges, i viasin many parts of this Mine, and went fo far, that at length I i^iTcd quite under a Hill, and came out on the other fide.
In Wi^ielfchacht'MiPte wherein I alfo defcendcd as far as rlie water would then permit me, defc.nding thrice almotli^erpcndicularly about three hundred krge Heps or Hairs of a Ladder. 1 oLfeiA td a brgc Wheel deep in tlie Earth, of twelve yards Diameter; turned about by the tall of fubtcrrancous Waters. This W' heel moves Engines uhich pump out the water from the bottom of the Mine, up to tlie cavity wherein this V\hecl is placed. The water which moves this Whttl falls no lower into the Mine, but paiTes away through a Cunicum made on purpofe, through whih both thi^ and the other water pump- ed from the deepelb parts of the Mine, do run out together at the foot ofjin Hill. Befidesthis Wheel there is another above ground which lies Horizontally, drawn about cofttinually by twelve Horfcs, which ierves alfo to pump out much of the water ot this Mine ; about all the Works w hereof, I was mformed that there w ere no lefs than two thou- fand men employed.
In fome places of the Mine it is very cold, and in others fo hot, that to refreih my fclf I was conflraincd to go with my breaft naked ; al- though I had only linen Cloths on. Where they work it is always hot, lo that they labour naked for eiglit hours if they areablc,and then reft eight hours more.
In this Mine they fliewed me a place where five men and a Perfon of quality v. ere dellroyed by a Damp, for w hich reafon they have now placed a Tube there, the like they place over all doors, and over all ways w here they dig right en for a great fpace, and have no pallage througli ; u hereby the air is let in, let out, or carried round, and the Miners under-ground ventilated with it.
The blackilh Ore is elleemed the beft ; much of it hath a mixture ofa Ihiningyellowfubflance or i^iiiz-f/^^/zf, which if it be not in too great a quantity is not unw clcome, by reafon that it difpofes the Ore to fluidity, or renders it more cafie to be melted ; but it it be in too great a proportion, they are of opinion, that it preys upon the Silver in the Muie; and in the Furnace carries it away while it melts, by over-volatilizing it ; and therefore they term it a Robber, as a fubftsnce which fpoyls and takes away therichnefsofthe Ore.
There is otten found a red fubftance which grows to the Ore called r/^»i//dr of Silver, which being grinded with Oyl makes a Vermilion equal tOf if not furpalling the Cmnalur made by (ublimation.
There are alfo found in thcfe Mines, CnjUls, Awetkyjis^ and Ame^ thyjiinc mixtures in the clefts of the Rocks, and fometimes nigh or joynedtothe Ore; as alfo Vitriol naturally cryftalliz'd in the Earth in divers of thde Mines; and particularly in a Mine in Faradije HiII; which then belonged to Mr. Jacohus Schwdoda^ an Apcihecary, at w hofe houfe I lodged, and w hoprcltnted miC with many curious Mine- rals.
And as there is great variety in the Silver-Ore, as to its mixtures with E,irth, Stones, Mufchajtte^ Cinnabar, Vitriol^iSc, So alfo in its richnefs; lome holding a great proportion oi Silver in reipedt of others. An hun- dred pound we^ht of Ore lomttimes Jields Ut ball' an yunce cr an
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A JouY7iey from Komara to the Mine-Toxvm in Hungary .
otSdver ; fometuncs two ounces, three, four, five, and unto twentv ounces ; what is richer is very rare, yet fome hath I ecn lound to hold halt Silver, and [have feen oi it fo rich, as to be cut with a knife.
A Specimen oi each fort of Ore which they di<^ out of the Mines is carried up ^n its firft being difcovered to an Oificer called the /V^i/^- rer, who is to prove and judge of its richnels ; which he doth in this manner. Otall lorts of Ores he takes the fame quantity, the O.'cs being firlT: dr\ed, burned, and pounded, he gives an equal proportion ot lead to all, melts and puriries them, and then bv exad Scales rakes notice ct the proportion between the Ore and zMetal contained in It, and reports it to thole employed in the great melting Furnaces; who accordinj^ly add or dimmiih the quantities of thofe lubftances which arc to be mixed with the Ores to melt them in the melting Furnace ; as for example, to an hundred centen or ten thoufand pound weight of SiKcr-Ore, which holds above two ounces and an half of Silver in an hundred pounds weight, they add forty centen ot Leich, w hich is Ore- pounded and wailed ; two hundred centen of fron-Stone, which is not Iron-Ore, but a .Stone found m thole Hills, of which the liver colour- ed is the beft. A q antity of //f, or a fort oiPyntes, according as die Ore is niixed witli Mufchafite^ and of Slacken'..^ much as thev pleaie- Thislall is the \cx\i:s or cake taken off Irom the top of the Pan intc* which the Met-Is run, and is a lubftance made out of the former men- tioned, bv fufion.
Whatfocver is n:.eltcd in the melting Furnace, is let out througli an hole at the bottom thereof into the pan, w hich is placed in the Earth before it; and thus expofed, it immediately acquires an hard Icum, drofs, leaf or cake, which being continually taken away, the Metal remain- ing becomes purer ; to which is added lead which carrieth all the Sil- ver down to the bottom with it, and after IbmiC time the \x\t\t^i\ Metal is taken out ; then being again m.elted in the driving i urnace, the lead or what eife remains mixt With the Silver is driven oti'bythe blowingof two great bellows; and runs over fron the melted Silver in form or Litharge. That which hrll comes over, is the white and that which comes lad, being longer in the fire, is the red, not that it is Litharge of Gold, both being driven ort' from thef;me Metal.
Moft or the 5t/>w^///:j Silver-Ore holds lome Gold which thev fcpa rate by melting the Silver, then granulating it, and afterwards by dil- folving it in Aquj jortts made out of a peculiar Vitriol prepared at Chremnitz^ wkereby the Gold is lett at the bottom and is afterwards melted; the /if/z-ru /i^rm is diilillcd from the Silver, and ierves a-^ain for ule. But it would be too tedious to delcribc all the works of thele Mines w hich do well dcferve as accurate Deforiptions as thofe of Mif itia^ and other parts, of which Agncola hath written largely, and very well in his Books De re Meta/Ika <^ defofdihus. Lenys alfo of Mineral works is elleemed, and Lazarm Erker hath handfomely delcnbed the principal Ores and Mineral bodies. But certainly there are k\\ places in the World to be compared w ith this, where Art and \aturc llrive to Ihow their utmoft force and riches.
They work in this Country much after the manner thcv did in the Emperour Rudoiphm his time ; who was a great undertaker and en- courager of Mine-works ; but, manyof their Inlb*umertr> and Engines are much improved.
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A Journey from KomzrSL to the Muie-Towns m Hungary.
Notwithftanding the J^reat quantity of Silver made every week at Schemnitz and carried away in Carts, I found feme diftculty to pro- cure the lead piece there, and fcarce any one in tlie Town could fur- nilh me with any that was pure, for the Money of the Country is mix- ed with above half Copper; and being dcfirous to fee what alteration divers of thofe Mineral-waters in that Country, would make upon Metals, for want of other Silver, I was forced to make ufe ot lilvcr CroiTes, Crucifixes and Medals, which I borrowed.
Near unto Schemnitz, where old Schemnitz flood, is an high Perpen- dicular Rock, part of which from the bottom to the top is naturally tindlured with iTiining fair blue, Ibme gceen, and Ipots ot ycUovv in it. At tirft fight I was much furprized with the beauty ot it, and could tan- fy nothing like it, but a whole Rock of poliihed Lapis Lazuli: and I have heard from a Spaniard, who lived long in tlic lyeJi-hJies, that there is alio a Rock like this nigh to the Silver Mines in Peru
At QlajS'Hitten, an Hungarian mile, or about leven Englilh ^ miles from Schemnitz^ there was formerly a rich Gold Mine, but it is loft, no man knowing where the entrance was fince tlie time that Be/Uem Gabor ^xhiQQoitranjylvamaovtX'Xxn that Country, and the Inhabi- tants fied away. Tlie Owner notwithlbnding left fome marks and di- rections whereby they might difcovcr it, with the Figures ot his h> flruments upon the Barks of Trees ; which Inftruments they have already found bv digging in the Earth, and thus much is intimated to them,'that where they hnd a Stone, on which a Face is carved, they are at it,and are onely to remove part of a Rock with which the Ouner
Hopped up the Mine. . , t. i
This place is much frequented by reaion ot its natural hot Baths, oi which there are five very convenient, with handfome dcicents into them, and covered over with large high Roots. The Springs are ve- ry clear, the Sediment is red and green, the wood and feats ol tlic Baths under water are incruftated with a ftony fubftance, and Silver is gil- ded by being left in them : But the moil remarkable of thefc Baths, is that which is called the fweating Bath, whole hot Springs drain through an Hill, and fall into a Bath built to receive them ; atone end of whicli byafcending! went into a Cave which is made a noble Stove by the heatofthefe Therms, andfo ordered witii Scats, 'tliut every one who (its in it, either by choofmg an higher or a lower feat, may regulate l\\s Iweating, or enioy what degree ot heat he dtfires. This Cave, as alio the fides of the Bath are covered by th-e continual dropping of thole hot Springs, with a red, white, and green fubftance, very fair and pleallng co
the eye. , , ,
Bathing my felfin the largeft of thefc Batlis when tl.ere w ere a great many Men and Women in it ; an adive man to divert the Company, had privately conveyed himfelf to the top of the Houfe whicli covered the Bath, and on a luddain cafl himlelf dov\n into the water, and by- taking hold upon the bottom of the Seats kept himielf under uvter for forae time ; afterwards a Serpent coming into the Bath thrf^ugh a channtl which conveyed the water into it, many of the womea were afrightcd at it. He flill to continue his fervicc and good will to the Company, was the firft that would encounter it, and deliver theDamfels; which he did in a fhort time, fo liiccefsfully, that he caught the Serpent in both Iun hands, and holding it out of tlic water, ° put
A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Towns in Hungary.
put it into his mouth, and bit die head oC Being taken u ith his good humour , 1 afterwards lent tor him into the Stove ; and finding that he had been employed in the Mines, I uskcd him among other things, whether he had fecn any natural Vitriol, and where, in the Mines, cryftallized in lumps, pure and ready tor ule, which he laid he had in many places, Ijut in the grcateft quantity, in a Mine now given over ; by reafon that in fome places the Earth was tallcn in, which was near to Schemnitz : And accordingly two or three days after he came to fee me at SclemmtZj brought me Lamps and Minc-mens habits for my lelt, and two Friends more ; and we went with him under ground, till I came w here he fhew'd me great quantities of it, much to my fatis- facflion : the Vitriol there fliooting upon the Stones and Earth, upon the floor and fides of the paflages, as it doth by art in the Pans, and about the fticks, not hanging from the top, as in many other places I have feen it, like to Ice-icles.
GlaJS'F/itten belongcs to the Count of Lippey, ofwhofe Family wiis the Learned Fo/ycarpus Frocop/us Bocanus^'^ho uas fent fome time pall by the ATch-liimop oi Presiurg to give an account of the rarities of thele Countries ; but his death hindred the publilhing of his oblcrva-
tions.
Eifenhch cbout four EngUfh miles from Qlufs-Hltten, and five or fix
from Schemnu-z-, hath alfo hot Baths ; the vSedimenr of which is red, and turnes intoflone ; fo that I brought away witli me pieces of it of five or fix inches diameter : I took alfo a large piece of this water petre- fied as it fell from a fpout in which the waves of it are to be ieen ; but the fpout it felf, although made of Wood, was not at all changed, as ly- ing under it. However, thofe Trees with w hich they built the fides of the Bath were lo petrcfied, that thofe which lay next above the water, were intirely turned into Stone. And it was not unpleafant to ob- ferve how^ nature did here iflift art, and out of the body of a Firr-Tree frame a Column of Stone. Nor i; it much to be wondred at, that the wood under the water fhould remain unaltered whilll that above fuiier- ed io great a change. Thefe waters are hot, and part of whatfoever is contained in them is fufficientiy Volatilized to be carried up with the rteam of the Bath, and I remember in the Bath of the Green Pillars at Biida, I took notice, that the exhalation from the Bath reverbera- ted by the high Cupola built over it, and by the Irons extended from one Column to another, and by the Capitals oi the Pillars was for- med into long Stones like Le-kles^ which hang to all the laid places, fuch as may be obferved in miany fubterraneous Grottos^ and particu- larly in Englaml in Okey-kole in Somerftt-Jhirey and Pooles-kole in Dur- hy-jhtre. Sulphur alfoVhich is in great quantity in many hot Springs fiyeth away continually, and is not to be found in them, if you boyl or evaporate the Bath water : and therefore to difcover it , I thought it more rational to look cut of the water than into it ; neither was I more deceived in my conjedure, than he who looked towards the Weft, rather than towards the Eaft to fee the rifing of the Sun. For upon many places which were over the Baths , and received the (learns of the hot water, I have feen Sulphur to ftick ; and to fatisfie my curiofity further herein,! cauled once a Pipe to be opened at Baden in Aujlria^ through which the hot water continually ran, and took with my hand from the upper part of the Pipc,divers Boxes lull ofafubrtance
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6i A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Town^ in Hungary.
fcarcc to be diftinguiihcd from Flov/cr of Brimftonc. Walking about alfo one day in the Sower Bjtb at Bj</eN, and leaning over the BalU- ftres to talk with fome Friends, u ho were then bathing thcmlclves, I perceived that my Buttons and whatcKcI wore cfrilver, ucre ail turned yellow of a fair Gold colour, although I were at fonie dillance from the water. Which made me try this experiment aho, ^vhich was to hang money over the Bath at a foot dtftance, or at a greater, to fee what alteration it would make, and how foon ; which it co- loured in a minutes time, and that which was nearer in half a an-
nute.
But to return to E/fe^knb.thQrc are two convenient Baths much tre- quented,and a third which is made by the water let out of the former, called the Snakes-hth, from the number ot Snakes coming into, and delighting in it when it is filled withthcle warm waters.
March the thirtieth, I travelled from Scbemuitz by GUf^-Hitten^ ^x\d ApfehJorff, where there is a Houfe of the Arch-Bilhop of /Vc-.- lur^; and afterwards palTed the River Grju and came in betweer; the Hills ; where in one place they have thrown up the Earth , and made a work from one ridge of the Hills to the other , to defend the Country ; and hinder the turkijl ExcurHons towards Chremnitz : Afterwards we proceeded by that Golden Ri\ er and yellow Stream which walhes all the Ore above till we came to the Town.
Ckremnitz is a Imall Town, bijc hath large Subuibs, and lies high St. Johns Church at fome dillance from it, is thought to (land upon the higheft ground in Hungary, This is the oldefl Mine-Town, and the richeft in Gold of all the liven in thefe parts, which are l\\<:k-^Schemnitz^ Chremnitz^ Neiijo!, Komytgsherg^ Eochantz^ Lihetcn axld
They have worked in the Gold-Mine at Chremnitz nine hundred and fifty years ; the Mine is about nine or ten Engbjh miles in lengtli, and there is one Cumculus or Horizontal palfage which is eight hun- dred fathoms long, called the ErhHa/L The depth of it is above one hundred and feventy fathon:s; they do not ufe Ladders to defcend into this Mine, but are let down at the end of a Cable, unto which is faftncd a fling, or feat of Leather ; the Leather being broad, and divided ordinarily into two or three parts, fo that it is to be ihifted or changed as you find convenience, and affords no wneafie ieat, even to fuch as are not uled to it. And in this m.anner, whofcever enters the Mine is let down. Through oi:e of the Scha- chts or perpendicular Pits, of which there are fix. i. That oi Roclol- phus* z. Queen Am^e. 3. Ferdinand, ^, Matthias, 5. IViftdjchacht^zivA 6. Leopold. I went down by the Pit of the Emperour Rodoiphm, gently delcending by the turning about of a large wheel to which tlie Cable is fallned, one hundred and eight fathoms deep into the Earth ^ and after many hours being in the Mine, was drawn cut again by LeopoUi Schacht, or Leopolds Pit, or Shaft, ilreight up above one hundred and fifty fathoms ; a height furpalfing that of tiic Pyramids by a third part. At the bottom oi v\ hich Schacht I was not difcouraged to find my lelt fo deep in the earth, for confidering tliar I was yet above three thoufand miles from the Center, I thought my Hlf but in a Well. It is built on all fides with Firr-Trees, one la>in^ upon another on four fides from the bottom to the top, and after ti.e iame man-.
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A Journey from Komara to the MineJor^m in Hungary ^3
ner all thefc Mines arc kept open where they have not a Rock on all fides.
Many Veins of the Ore run to the North, and to the Eafl ; They work alfo towards one, two, or three of tlic clock, as thev fpeak ; for tlie Miners dired themfelvcs under-ground by a Compafs not of thirty two points (fuch a.s is ufed at Sea) but by one of twenty lour, which they divide as we do the hours of the day into twice twelve. Of the Gold-Ore (ome is white, fome black, fome of it red, and lome yellow. That u'lth black (pots in white is efteemed the befl, as alJo the Ore which lieth next to the black Veins. This Ore is not rich enough to luflcr a ly proot in (mall parcels, like that of other Mines, whereby to know v'liat proportion of Metal is contain'd in ic ^ but they pound a ve- ry grea: quantity tlitreof, and walli ir in a litrle River which runs near the Town ; Tlie wh(.lc River bering divided and admitted into di- vers^ curs, run. over the Ore continually, and lb walhes aw ay the earthy parts from the MerjIIm, and irom a clear River above the Town,by its running th^ougli lb many work.,,and over fo much pounded Ore.it becomes below die Town a dark yellow Strestm, of the colour of the Earth, of tho!c Hills. Unlefs it be upon fix days of the year ; two at Chriflmas, two at Eajhr, and two at Whitfuntide ^ when thekiver it felt as well as the Mine-men cealeth Irom working, and is permitted to flow cl jar within its own Banks.
There have been pieces of pure or virgin Gold found in this Mine, fome ot which I have ktn in the Emperour's Trcaliiry, and in the Eledor of Saxony s Repofitory, one piece as broad as' the palm of my band, and others lels ; and upon a white Stone many pieces of pure Gold ; but thele are very rare.
The common yellow^ Earth of the Country near Chremnitz, efpcci- ally of the Hills towards the Weft, altiiough it be not cfteemed Ore, affords lone Gold. And in one place I law a great part of an Hill d:gg'd away, which hath been caft into the works, wafhcd and wrought in the fame manner , as pounded Ore with confiderable pro- fit. ^
Matthias Bellinger the chief Officer at Chremnitz for tr.e Minc-w^ork hath alfo lately invented a Mill to pound the Ore finer than it was bctbrc; and by this invention hath obtained a confiderable quantity of Gold out ot that Ore which otherwife would have vieldcd none - in his Houfe I faw many Ibrts of Minerals, and was very kindly en- tertained by him ; and when I was at the bottom of the Gold-Mine he lent me down a prefcnt of excellent Wine to drink the Emperour's health.
Some palBges in this Mine cut through the Rock and long difufed, have grown up again ; and I oblcrved tlie fides of fome which had been formerly wide enougli to carrv their Ore through, to approach each other ; In as u e palled uith diiiiculty ; this happens mofl m moift places, the pailages unite not from the top to tlxe bottom, but irom one lide to another.
They carry their Ore under ground from one place to another ; or to the bottom of the Pit whence it is drawn out, in a Box or Chell which they call a Hundt or Dog ; this runs upon tour v\ hcls, it is high- er behind than before, and hath a tongue of Iron at the bottom, which being firted into a channel of wood framed ii the middle of
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^4 A Journey from Y^omdX^ to the Mine-Towns in Hungary.
A Journey from Koniara to the MineTowns in Hungary. 6^
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the bottom of eac!i pafTage, it can no ways deviate, Luc keeps alvvaycs in the middle ; and by this means a Httle Boy will run full Ipeed with three or four Jiundrcd pound \^ tight of Ore or tarth before him, wherever y-ou command him, without any light, through thofe dif- mal dark pallages of the Mine : and it uas very new to mc to hear the rattling they make in the Mine, and the alteration of the found as they arc nearer or further from us ^ and to Ice them come wijth that fv\iftnelsGut ofthe Rocks, overturn their liirle Charriot, uhere they are to leave their Ore, then turn again and enter thofe dark Cares witli luch a force and fwiftnels.
Not much unlike this is another inilrumcnt they have to bring the Ore from the mouth of the Mine, or from the Hills down to the Buchworke^ where they pound it and w.ilh it ; but inftead of a tongue it hath eight wheels or tour rowlers and luui wheels, and the way is made with Firr in fucli manner and at fuch a diilance that the row- lers rowl upon the wood of the Firr-trees. And thele rowkrs and wheels are fo contrived, that thele Cheils can, ne\er overturn nor go out of the way, and a child draws them, and lometimcs a dog lervcs the turn. To ov\q, Buchivorke alone, they carry every week three or four hundred cf thefeCheds full, and each Chefl: holds four liundrcd pound u eight.
There were two very bad (Irorg dam.ps in this Mine when I was there, and divers others th:.t had not the like ibrcc to lutiocate in lb fmall a time. One of thcfe Damps was in a Schacht Futcus or Pit, and the other in a Stall, or right-on pallage; no Lamps would burn m either ' of them, yet the Miners would venture into them for fome Ihort Ipace of time : and we let one man down into that Damp which was 'm the Pit five or fix times ; but pulled him up ngain as loon as ever we lav/ iiis Lamp go out ; this place is mod poylonous when the water is high, the vapour then arifing more llrongly,the other Damp in the Cuntculm they hope to remedy, by perflation, and making or digging another palfigc into it.
I was intbi nicd that there had been twenty cifiht men killed at one time, by Damps in four Cumculi^ feven in each ; and in the finking of L€opold\ Pit, they were much troubled with Damps, u hich they remedied m this manner.
They fixed to tlie fide of the Schacht or Pit a Tube trom the top to the bottom; and that not proving fufficient they forced doun a broad flat board which covered or itopped the Pit, or couched very near the fides of it on all fides, but where the Tube was : and lo torccJ out all the Air in the Pit through the Tube ; which work they wt;rc tbrced often to repeat. And now they having divers other pallagcs into it, the Air is good and fufficient, and I wasdrav^n up through it without the leaft trouble in breathing,
Altermans Fore-ftall, a CHniculus five hundred fathoms long, was burned in the year 1641. by the carelelnels ot a Loy wipia^^ the fnurt of a Lamp upon the wood; and fifty men fmothered in it ; they were all taken out except one, who was atteru ards lound to be dillolved by the Iharp waters of the Mine, nothing elcaping eitiier of flelh or bones, but only fome ot'his cloths.
There is Vitriol in this Muie, white, red, blue and green ; and alfo Vitriolat waters. There is a fubftance tound, uhich Hicks to the
Gold
Frvs
Gold-Ore of fmall pointed parts like needles, of a purple colour and iliining. the mother of which is yellow like brimflone, it is called by them Antimony of Gold. There are Cryftals found here, and fome tinctured yellow.
There is a Vitriol-Mine in tliele Hills nigh the Gold-Mine, about eighty fathoms deep. The Earth or Ore whereof is reddilh, axid Ibmetimes grcenilh. This Earth is infuled in water, and after three days the water is poured ofl^ and boyled (even days m a leaden VeileJ till It comes to a thick granulated whitilh fubllance, which is after- wards reduced toaCalx-in an Oven, and lerves in the making of Aqua form, or the feparating water uled at Schemnitz.
Where they pound riie Gold- Ore, they lay a foundation three yards deep of wood, upon which they place the Ore, over which there are four and twenty Beams armed at the bottom with Iron, which break and grind the Ore, it being covered all the while with water. Thefe Beams are moved by 'bur Wheels, one Wheel to fix Beams, the water which comes outfrcm the pounded Ore, is let into little Pits or Chefts commonly leven or eight one after another ; and afterwards into a large Pit of almoil half an Aker of ground, and then after fet- ling let out.
^^ The Gold- Ore in powder or pounded is called Slicl\ of which that is the richell which is neareft to the Beams where it is firft pounded. They work thus day and night continually. The Candles which they make ule of are of Firr or lome Refinous v/ood.
They take the Sikh waflied fo long as perhaps in an hundred pound weight, ther: may be half an ounce or an ounce of Gold and Silver, the greareft r^art ordinarily Gold, two thirds generally, (for the Chrem- »/^^ Gold-Ore is feldom without fome mixture of Sdver, andthebeft of the Sckewnitz Silvcr-Ore yields an eighth part of Gold in pro- portion to the Silver;) to this ^'//V/j they add Limeilone and Slacken, and melt them together in the melting Furnace.
This firll melting produces a fubttance called Lech ; this Lech they burn with Charcoal to make it lighter, to open its body and render it porous, and then it is called Raft,
To the Rojl they add Sand as they Ice occafio:\ and melt it a-^ain in the melting Furnace ; then let it out into the Pan, and proceed as in the melting of Silver.
They have divers other ways to get the Gold out of the pounded Ore, and I cannot omit to let down thi^ onC; in which they proceed witliout Lead.
They wafii the pounded Ore oftert, arid lay it in powder upon Cloths, and by the gentle oblique defcending of the water over it, and their continual Itirring it, the earthy, clayilh, and lighter parts are walht away, while the heavier and metalline remain in the Cloth: not much unhke to this proceeding is that with Sheep-skins and Wooll, which tl^ey place either in the water which comes from the works, or in- rivulets which have their Heads hid in Hil!s and Mountains rich in Gold ; lb that while the water and fluid parrs pafs through or over them, the more folid, heavy and metalline are infnared ; and by this way Ibm.e have obtained the Golden Fleece. But to continue the man- ner of working with cloths, they walh the cloths in which the Ore doth ftick in fcveral Tubs, and the water after fom-e fetling is pour'd
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66 A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Towns in Hungary.
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off from its Sediment ; which Sediment is again wailit and ftirr'd up in feveral Veflels and Troughs, till at length they fprinkle Qvuck fil- vcr upon it, and knead it well together lor an hour or two ; and then vvalhing it again in a wooden Vellel, after tiic feparating cl much ot it, which the Quick-filver touches rot, by ftriking this WiTd againll their leg, they bring the Gold and Quick-filver together m an Amal- q^aimu to one corner of it. From this ^wj/g./#wj they llrain as much ot the (iuick-filver as they can through courfe cloths rirfl:, and then througfi fine. They put the Maft remaining upon a perforated Plate, which they fet over a deep Pan placed m the Earth ; in the bottom of which Pan they alio put Quick-filver : This Pan they cover, and lute the cover w^ell, and then make a Charcoal fire, upon it, and drive down the Quick-filvcr yet remaining in the Gold to the reft in the bottom of the Pan ; and then taking out the Gold, they cad it into the fire tfat
it may ftill become purer. .
i\fter fomc few days having feen the moll: remarkable cunofities ot Chremnitz^l went to Neivjol ; palling thole Hills uhichLc on the Eaft-fide oV Chnr}mitz^ upon the top of one of which lies a vail Stone or Rock alone bv it felf , near the way-iide ; thele Hills afford wood ibr the Service of the Gold-Mine. Paiiing on further Vv-e were net iar from LiLh a Village, where they find Quick-filvcr ; and after we had travelled over the Quick- filver Hills, we came again to the River Gran, upon which ^ewjcl (lands ; there is a Bridge of wood to pafs the River at this Town, and an handfom building ol Piles Ihoring crofs the River to flop the wood thrown into this River, ten miles higher, where the Country is very full of wood : and by this Artifice with- out labour or charge, it is^conveyed to Nenjol, to be ufed in the work- ing of the Copper-Orc^and in the'lurning, melting, calling, ham.merirg
of the Copper.
Newjolis anhandfomeTown, and hath a large Fiazza, at the upper
end whereof (lands a fair Tower. The Caftle alibis worth the lee- ing, in which is the Church covered over with Copper; within the Church there are many Figures of carved Wood, and fomxC Reliqucs ; but being in the pofTellion of the Lutherans tl:ty are not much re- garded, though carefully preferved. As I aifo obferved in Ibme Lh^ theran Churches in Germany^ as at Nuremhrg, zrA Mjgddur^ir^^ where fome Reliques had been left; u hich they have not parted v/itli. but ilxll
keep as rarities.
At this Town, and near unto it, are the greated Copper-works in Hmgan, the body of the Copper being very llrongly united to its Stone, Bed, or Ore, the reparation of it is effedcd with great la- bour and difficulty ; for the Copper-Ore taken out of the Mine is burned and melted fourteen times before that it becomes fit for ule ; and firft it is melted with a Stone which they call tUf^-lhiH^ and its own drofs, and with Kis or a fort of Pyntes, It is afterwards carri- ed to the Roji'hearth^ where it is laid upon great Hacks or heaps of Billets, and thofe fet on fire under it ; by which means it is bur- ned into a fubftance called Rojiy and this is repeated k\tn or eight times ; afterwards it is melted again in the melting Furnace, 'inU at two Furnaces more at Mifmills^ and twice at the Hammer.
Here they alio melt Kts which is brought hither from Jeft^ta, w lilch fubftance melted is ferviceable in the melting of Silver,
At
A Journey from Koaiara to the Mine-Towm in Hungary. ^ 7
At Mifmill's not far from hence they get Silver out of Copper , which they feperate thus: They add Lead to the Copper whm it is melted, and take out the Metals melted together in Spoons or Iron Dilhcs. v^ hen it is cold they give it a Urong fire again is it lies upon crofs Bars, untiU the Silver and Lead melts and falls through When the Copper hath pafled its laft melting and is fit for ufe, they cut it in pieces, w ith great Hammers which are iharp, to move every one of which there is a Mill on purpofe, which with great force lift- eth up the Hammer : and to Ihape and form it into Ve/IeJs or Plates they have other Hammers, which are f^at or round according as they intend to frame the Copper.
The Governor of thefe Works at t^ewfolvi^s highly obliging, and tefidcs the :;iving us opportunity of feeing every thing we defircd, he lent me a liandfom prefent of Wine and Fowls, and wrote a Letter to the Prrefedt of the Copper Mine at Herm-gmndt to Ihcw me cvcrv thinf^ that wis curious and oblervable in chat Mine.
Herrn-Grimdt is a little Town feated very high between two Hills upon a part of Land of the fame name, an Hungarian miJe dillant from NewfoL The Country about w^as then all covered with Snow after we came to luch a heighth, but in the Valleys, and in our journey from Newfol hithei we met with none ; fo that we found the Air very piercing as we palled towards the entrance of the Mine in Miners ha* bits ; u hich habit confifts of a Linen Coat and Drawers, a flififround Cap, like the crown of a Hat, a leather Apron turned behind, and two pieces of Leather tyed to the Knees, to defend thofe parts againfl any fudden ftrikmg againil the Rocks, or the fall of Earth upon them. In the Mine we were warm enough.
I went into this Mine through a Cunkulm called TachflolH, and con- tinued divers hours in the Mine, and vilitcd many of the moil remar- k2bTe r 'aces in it. The fleep defcents in this Mine are made by Lad- ders or Trees fet upright, with daep notches or {layers cut in them to ftay the foot upon ; They are not troubled with water, the Mine lying high in the Hill, fo that the water may drain away ,- but they are mo- lefled wirh dud, which is choaking and fretting, and alfo with pernici- ous damps
In one place of the Mine they fliewed me the manner how they had lately cured a very bad Damp by a great pair of Bellows, which were blown continually for many days ; and in divers other places the Damps were fo flrong as to hinder the Work-men very much in their labour, and tkele Damps arc not only met with in places where the Earth is full of Clay or the like liibftances, but alfo where it is rocky, and one place they ihewed me where there had been a pernicious Damp, and yet the Rock fo hard, that it could not be broken by their Inftruments ; but the defccnt was all made by the means of Gun-pow- der ramm'd into long holes in the Rock, and (o blown up.
Much of this Mine lies in the Rocks where they have no need of Wood-work to keep it open, and fome paflages lie between the Rock and the Earth, lb that they are kept open upon one fide by Firr-Trees, and on the other fide with Stone, the pallages alfo are not fo regular as at Chremmtz^ for many here arc neither horizontal, nor near to a, per- pendicular, but moderately inclining up and down, and there are many large Cavities withm. In one place where we dcfcended obliquely to
Si go
III
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Mi
IB
<^8 A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Towns in Hungary.
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go to a remarkable part of the Mine, we found that the Earth had fal- lenm and flopped up the paflagc, but one of our Guides unvvillineto go about, and the Earth being yet loofe, he niade a Burrough into it and digged his way through, although the Earth continually fell upon him and covered him ; and got at length through and tumbled down amongil the Work-men below, with a great quantity of Earth after him ; with which they fo fpeedily laded their Barrows and Hundts, of which I fpake before, and the Boys ran away with them with fuch fwlft- nefs, that in a ftiort time he made the pafTage clear again up to the place where he had left us, ^
The Veins of this Mine are very large, many of them, fuch as arc termed cumulatie, and the Ore is very rich, in an hundred pounds of Ore they ordinarily find twenty pounds of Copper, fometimcs thirty, lorty, half Copper, and even to fixty in the hundred. Much of the Ore is joyned fo faft to the Reck, that 'tis fcparated with great diii. culty, and in many places the Ore and the Rock are one continued Body or Stone, onely with this difference that one part of the Rock Will yield Copper, the other none ; which is known and difanguillied by the colour, and eafily at firft fight, the Copper-Ore being for the moft part, efpecially tjie bcfl of it, either yeliow or black : The yellow IS pure Copper-Ore,,the black contains alio a proportion of Silver.
There are divers' forts of Vitriol found in this Mine, white, green, blue, and a red cl ar tranfparent. There is alfo a green Earth or Sed^ ment ofa green Water, called ^£'/'2.(7r//;/,ufed by the Paincers • there arf likewife Stones found of a beautiful green and blue colour, and one fort upon which Turcoifes have been found, and therefore called the Mother of the Turcois.
There are alfo two Springs of a Vitrlolat Water which turn Iron in- to Copper, called the old and the new Ziment ; thcfe Sprintrs He very deep in the Mine, and the Iron is ordinarily kfc in the wate^r fourteen days. Thefe Waters are very profitable, feeing that the wora fort of Iron, and ufelefsold Iron is hereby turned into the purefl fort of Cop- per, which hath this commendation above other Copper to be more ducftile, malleable, and eafily melted ; and I have melted it without tl e addition of any other fubftance, without diificulcv, Whilft the Ore of Copper mufl run through many Fires and Furnaces to be brouglit to any thing. Of this fort of Copper I took a good quantity out of the old Zzment, and I took alfo a piece of Copper of the Figure cfa Heart which had been layed in it eleven or twelve days before - having the fame figure, but as pertedtly Iron then, as it is at this day Copper. Some will not have this to be a Tranlmutation of one Metal into ano- ther, but that this Water of the Z^me^t being faturated with a runo^ lum Veneris, and meeting with fuch a body fo ready to receive it as Mars, It depofes Fenus, who immediately infinuates her fclf io far mto Mars, that ihe doth dividere & imperare, and at lall fhe fubfti- tutes her own body, and precipitates that of Mars.
In the changing of Iron into Copper in thefe Springs, many parts are indeed often Separated, and lie at the bottom in powder, but thefe parts are not Iron but Copper ; and I have taken of this powder out ot the Spnng, and melted it into excellent Copper ; fo that if the Iroa be not changed, I know not wlut becomes of it. This Operation
whi^^/ii
A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Tovpns in Hungarv, 6^
winch nature lb cunoully performs in the Mine, I have fince lecn at- tempted to be imitated by Art; and in my judgment fuccefsfully.
After that I had lce« many of the moil remarkable places in the Mine, I returned to the Ferwalter qS. Herrn-Gmndt his Houfe, and put my clothes on again in the Stove : where wc were afterwards very kindly entertained. He fiicwed me a Map of that Mine wherein we had fpent moll part of that day ; and the delineations of all thofc places we had been at, with a Scale to menfure the lengths and dillan- ces of all PaiTages and Places in the Mine ; and it was very delightful to lee fo large a Draught or Pid:ure of fo tair a Subterraneous City : nor can I term itjefe, in, which there is more building than in many. The extent furpalles moll, and the number of the Inhabitants are confide- rablc, their Oa er admirable, their Watches exad:, their Reft undi- llurbed, grateful after Labour and refrefhing, they repofing themfelves eight hours in the hollow of a Rock after the fame time fpent in labour; befides this Map, he fi:ew'd me many curious Minerals taken out of that Mine, and bv heating the Copper-Ore, and carting it into water, made the water like fome natural Baths which arife nearthele Hiik And upon my commending tlic Ziment water and its ftrange Opera- tion upon Iron, he prefentcd mc with divers fair pieces, and a chain cf Copper tranfmuted in thofe Springs. They make alfo very hand- fome Cups and Vellels out of this fort of Copper, and we drank out of one of them which was gilded over, and had a rich piece of Silver- Ore faftned in the middle of it ; and this Infcription graved on the outfide :
E'ifen ivarf ich , Kupfer him ich
Silber tra^ ich ^ Qoldt hedeckt mkl\ i. e
Copper I am, bat Iron was of old. Silver I carry, cover'd am with Gold,
TliC profit whicli the Emperor makes by his Mines, is reckoned to amount to an hundred and t\v enty Thoufand pounds Jierling yearly. But when they come to deal with deeper and richer veins of Ore, and that there ihall be by degrees more of thefe Vitriolate Copper fprings diicovercd, this revenue will then be encrcafed. And it is more than probable that time wuU bring more of them to light; for at Zol^ock.znd ' other places near the Carpathian Hills there are divers of the fame fprings ahead}' made ufe of But if furthermore, confidenng the no- blencls of thefe fprings, containing in them the true mature Salt of ^e- nus, fome Perfons hereafter ihall be lb fortunate, as moreover to dif- cover and experimentally improve the ule of Springs and Fountains faturated with a VitnoUm Lun^e, and learn perteiflly how to adapt MetaHinc Bodies to the adccquate energy, and ad'ivity of fuch waters j The improvement by tranfmutation as it is at prelent more than ten to one, fo it will in thofe dayes amount to above a hundred to one, and the ufe of thefe Mines and Metalline labours may hereby effectually prove in times to come one of the Richell Jewels in the Imperial Crown,
From Herrn-Qrundt we came to Stuhn, a Town three Hungarian niiles dillant from I^eivfol, and two from Chremnitz ; where near unto
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.71
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A Journej from Kom^tJL to the Mine-Tovptis i7i Hungary.
a Rivolct there are divers hot Baths of great efteem, and much fre- nuented ; the water whereof is very clear and fmells of Sulphur^ the Se- diment green ; it colours the wood over it green and black, but doth not change the colour of Metals fo foon as mod others ; I left monej in it a whole night, which was yet but faintly coloured. The Springs arife underneath, and pals through the holes in the piancher of the Baths.
The h^atofthefe is anfwerablc to that of the Kings-Bath in £>?g- Und ; there are feven in number ; The firft is the Noblcmans Bath, the fccond the- Gentlemans, the third the Country-mans, the fourth the Country-woman'^, the fifth the Beggars Batli, the fixth for luch as are infedred with the Lues Venerea^ th-e fevenrh the Bath of the Gypjtes, Tliefc Baths are in a Plain encompailed on all fides with Hills, the nigheft unto them are towards the Eaft ; and it is the fame ridge of Hills which on the other fide are lb nch in Metals. I bath'd in one of thefe and met good company that I was detained too long, and received fome inconvenience from the heat of the Bath, nor could I commend their cuftom of eating, drinking, and fleepmgmuch while they bathed.
from Stuh'n Bad wc w ent to Eoinitz^ eroding the RlVcr Nltra and leaving Pnvitz, a large Tow n on the left hand. At Bohitz there ar? ialfo five natural Baths of a moderate gentle heat delightful to bath in, being much beautified by Count P.i/fi Palatine of //w>/^jr)', and all of them covered under one large roof. The firft is the Noblemans Bath built of Stone, defcended into on all fides by Stone (lairs; the other four are of wood, very handfomely and well built, where it was a plea- furetous to fee the Boys and Girls dive fo finely forany tliing that Ue call in- About this part of the Country there grows very much Saffron.
From Boinitz we went to Weftenitz^ two Hu>ig.irian miles, and from Weftonitzxkiz next day, wc arrived at Tret^fchin^ which they count four Hungarian miles ; but fuch long ones they are, that we were travelling from before Sun-rifing till eight of the Clock at night, before we could come to our journeys end.
Trenjchin is a handfome Town feated upon the River IV^ag^ over which there is a Bridge of wood ; the P/azza is fair, the Jefuitcs Church handlbme, the Caflle feated very high, eafily difcernable at . twenty Engltjh miles diftance, and belonged to the GrafJeHbafey. There are two warm Baths a mile from the Town, and a great num- ber of Springs of Mineral waters in the Country about. Here we met with Count Rothall going from the Empcrc.r to treat with W/u^ Prince of Tranjjlvania his Commillioners at Eperies^ w here I engaged fome of his Attendants to make enquiry into the Salt-Mines ot that place, or any other, according to the inftrudlions I left with them, and after- wards I received an Account to this effedl.
Half an hours going from the City of Epenes in upper Hungary^ there is a Salt- Mine ot great note from the firft place of defcent unto the bottom, it is about one hundred and fourfcore fathoms deep. Into this the Mmers dcfcend firft by Ropes, and at lalt by Ladders unto the low er parti. The Mme is for the moft part in an Earthy, and not a Rocky ground.
The
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A Journey from Komara to tlje Mine-Tovm in Hungary. 71
The Veins of Salt ire large, and there are pieces to be found of ten thoufand pound weigiit : they coramonly hew out the Salt into long fquare pieces of two loot in length, and one in thicknefs, and ibr ule it is broken and grinded between two Grind (tones.
The Mine is cold and moifl, but the Salt bein^ a Stone lalt, iS not eafily difTolved, or at leafl: in any great quantity by dampncfs or mox- flure • ) et much of the water of the Mine is impregnated with fait, in fuch fort that being drawn out in large buckets, and afterwards boyi'd up, it affords a blackilh Salt, which they give to their Cattle in
that Country.
The colour of t!ie ordiftary Stone- fait of this Mine is not very white, but fomcwhat grey : yet being broken and grinded to powder, it be- comes as white as if it were refined, and this Salt confifts of pointed parts or foflets. Another fort of Salt tliere is alfo, which confifts of Squares and Tables J and a third to be found of fome what ftirious or
long fhoots.
Nor is all the Salt of this Mine of one colour, but of divers ; that which is found grofly mixt with the Earth receives fome colour from it; and even that which is moft pure and refembles Cryftal, doth often receive tindures of fevcral colours ; in the middle of a Cryftal- falt with iongllioots, I have leen a delicate blue ; and at Count Ro- thall his Houle at Vienna^ I law a large piece of a fair tranfparent yellow. There are alio feme picct^ fo clear and hard, that they carve them into divers Figures, as if they were Cryftal it felf. Of all thcle forts men- tioned I alfo obtained lomc pieces, and brought them with me into
But it is time to conclude tliis long difcourfe of Mines and Minerals, which may feem of little concern unto many ; yet for the fatisfadion of the more curious in fo confiderable a piece of Naturals, in places lit- tle known unto us ; and withal, undefcnbcd by any Enz^'lh Pen that I know J I would not omit this particular account thereof.
I continued my journey near to the River War.g, and came to N<rji Mnejh, and Irom'thence the next day to timaw, a City ieated upon a Plain and to be feen at a great diftancc ; it hath almoft recovered it felf out of t!ie Allies that it was reduced into fix years before : the day following we got to the Danuh again, and lodged that night at Tres- hur<r whereof 1 have fpokenelfevv here; and then pafling the Duriule in two Ferry-boats, we travelled by Homhwg Tower, by Hamburg Hill, by the Town of ILnmkrg, by Regelshmi, Fijchit and Swechet,
and came to T/f w/./.- , . 1 . ■ r
A great part of thefc Countries of upper Hungjna, through which I travelled, had a ditTerent face from that of Aitjh-u, and from what they had formerly been. For feme places had been burnt or plundred by the Tartars and Turks in the late war, and divers pay contribution to them, fo that many live wanly and meanly to become lels noted ; And in divers places their Houfes are bare and unfurnillied ; and it is well if they have any other Bed than one for the man of the Houfe and his Wife. Even in parts of the Country better provided, and un- der the Emperor, a great part of the people being of the Lutheran ot the reformed Religion, are under fuch hard mealure and fears that they live in little content, and being of a rtout and pcrfevering temper, they may in time become lb defperate, that if the Turk ihould break power- ^ fully
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72 A Journey from Komara to the Mine-Towns in Hungar>',
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in
fully in, 'tis probable they would not fight io heartily againft him as... times part. There are many Cdvtnijh^ many Lutherans. They were formerly almoft all Lutherans in the Mine-Towns, but now the Offi- cers are of the Roman Church. At Schemnitz a very fair Church was lately taken from the Lutherans-^ and they told me that at Boinitz^ and the Country about , Count Palfi caufed all his Lutheran Tenants to change, or at lead to declare the change of their Religion, or elfe to part with their Houfes and Lands : There are alfo many Anahaptifls up and downs more obferved for their neat working in Mother of Pearl than any thing elfe. The Vnitarit live in the farther parts of upper Huma^ ry towards Tranfylvania^ and have the commendation to fpeak general- ly Latin^ even the Hungarian Catholicks are much dillarisfied at the intrufion of the C^rwj;/j, and their encroaching upon them, they look jcaloufly upon the Court at Vienna^ think themfelves not regarded ac- cording to their merits or ability of their Services, nor the Hungarian Privileges well oblerved, fo that they can fcarce diflerable their Dxf- contencs, which may in time prove of very bad confequence.
*
A
A
JOURNEY
FROM
VIENNA
INTO
STYRIA, CARINTHIx^,
CAR.NIOLA, FRIULli
Unto the ftrangc Lake of Zinhmtz^, to the Quick-filver Mines at L^ria^ and to other remarkable places in the A/pes.
I »
WH I L E I remained at Fienna^ took the pains to fee di- vers places not tar diftant from it, as Neugelau^ KaUn- lerg, Clojier, Neivierg, Itzing, Baden^ Laxamhurg,t<few' JiMer-See, with others ; and afterwards made a jour- ney unto Ftnicey not by the Stage-Coaches uhich keep one conllant road, but chofe rather to perform it by Horfc whereby I might flay ia any place, or go out of the road at pleafure.
The firft confiJerable place we faw was B^den^ about foui' German miles from riema, a pretty walltd Tovrn ftated near a part of Mount Cetius which divided Nvricum from Fannjonia ; a Rivoltt named ^irf- cl-et palles by it, which afterwards enlarges and runs into the Da^ mle about a ijerman nule from Ficnna^ there are three Chmxhes, that of the Augpftiners^ of our Lady, and S. Stephen ; but this place i^ moft remarkable for its Bathi> which are much frequented from Fiennu and thele parts. The Springs being numerous and affording nine conveni- ent Baths, two H ithui the Tcwn, five without the Wall, and tw o be- yond a Rivolet called Swechet. \
Ti:e Dukes-Bath is the largeft, about twenty foot fquare, in the mid- dle of a Houfe of the lame Figure, built over it. The vapour pafles tl-.rough a tunnel ot Wood, at the top: and the Water is convened into the lottcm of the Bath, at one corner through wordcn pipes and Trees, under theTcwn-wall, from the Sp'irg head, whi^ch nlcs at a little diftance Wclluard. The Springs of the reft ot the Baths rife under them, and let ui through holes of the Plancher, lor all the Baths arc W ainicotcd, the Seats, Sides, and Bottom being made of Firr, The Wa- ter for the moft part is clear and tranlparent, >et fomewhat blcwiih,^ and make,, the Skui appear pale in it,in the lame manner as tlie Smoak of
L Biimftone,
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73
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74 A Journey from Vienna hiio St> ria, Cannthia,CarnioIa,Friuli.
* f Hi
Brimftone, it coloureth Metals (except Gold, the colour ot" which it alfo heightens) turning them black in a tew minutes. The Coyn of this Country, which is mixed ot Copper and Silver, (having ,; ofSil- ver, and -iV ot' Copper} is in a minutes time turned Irom a white into a dark yellow, and foon after becomes black. It jtivts a filhe green colour to the Mofs and Plants which it walhes, aiid leaves otten a fcum upon them of a purple, mixed with white As it runs from the Spring-head, it fomewhat rcfembles tlic Sulphur River in the way from Tivoli to fiome^ but is not lo flrange or {linking nor doth it incruflate
its banks.
The Spring head is alfo confiderable, in regard that it rifes under a rocky Hill, at fome dillance from the entrance, and I^ palled to it a- bout the length of forty yards, through an Arched pallage cut-in the Rock, which is alfo a natural flove, (as that of TritoL and B^/^') made by the hot Bath water running under it, moft part of the top of this Cave is incruftated with a white fubftance which towards the mouth becomes harder and ftony. I caufed fomie of the Pipes through v\ hich the Bath' water runs to be opened,and from the upper part ot the Pipe, I took fome quantity of the Sulphur in powder, it being very like flowers of Bnmftone, this being as it were lublimed from the w atcr and not depofed, it being found in the uppef part of the Pipe, oienm SulphH- ris fer cjmpaftum dropped into this water, is received into k quietly. Oleum Tartari per ileliquium caufes an ebullition as in the making ot" Tart arum Vitriolatum,
The Second Bath within the Wall is our Lady's Bath, about twelve foot broad and twenty four foot long.One end of this is under a Church of the fame name. This is fuller of Sulphur than the reft,and more blew, and leaves a yellow flower upon the boards, as the others do a
white.
The Third is the New Bath, without the Town nefar the Gate,when I faw it, it was full of People who were making merry and llnging.
The Fourth is the Jews Bath, this hath a partition in the middle, to fcparate the Men from the Women. ■ The Fifth isSt. 7o/7»'s Bathofa triangular Figure.
Tlie Sixth is the Beggars Bath, alwaycs (hallow lo as they lie down
in it.
The Seventh is the Bath of the holy Crofs, about two fathoms fquare, chiefly for the Clergy.
The Eighth is St. Peters Bath, tliis is greener than the reft.
The Ninth is the Sower-Bath, this is let about with ftone Balaftres, and covered with a handfome Cupola and a Lanthorn, the Water is ve- ry clear, in the ftream of this Bath 1 have otten coloured Money black without touching the Water ; yet the Water it felf being once cold changes not the colour of Metals, although they be boyled in it.
The hottcft of thefe Baths have net the heat of the Queens Bath at Bathe in En^xnd. They ufe no Guides as with us, but dire<5t them- fclves with a fliort turned Staff
Here we met with very good Company, and all kind of accommo- dation at no dear rate. A Captain of the Emperour's whom I had ac- companied to thefe Batlis as a token ot his love gave me a Gempskugel which is faid to be an cxcrefcence upon the Liver of a wild Goat of Tyroly and highly cryed up in Germany for a fignal remedy a^aioft the
• . diieafes
A Journey from Vienna into Styria^Carinthu, Camioia,FriulL 75
difeafesofthc Liver, malignant Fevers and thePlflgue,and many are lb obrtinately credulous as to think that whofoever takes it becomes in- vulnerable for twenty tour hours after.
Having bathed m the Baths, and taken a draught of the Town, I left Bjflett^ and the next confiderable piace was Newlfael, one of the chicfcft Cities in At'fjhia ; it is of a (quare Figure with a tuzza in t;.e middle of It, two fides whereof are arched and fupport d with Pillars : there are four Gtitf:s, three whereof are to be fcen trom the Ptazza; Sr. Jacols is the chidirll Church,which hath two Steeples in the Front. The Emperor hath a Palace here of a Iquare Building with four Towers, which are to be feen a great way otf, as is alio moft part of the Town, as lying in a Max ifli Ground, and in a plain Country; it isencompal- led \^ ith a Dirca and two Walls, tliC one very low, the other (eems not llrong; yet as thrytold me, at one time the /r^/-^ could not take ir, but left it upon condition that they might take loraething out ot' the Town; which being granted, they took the P ranger ox i^Vhipp/ng- Po^yZnd carried it umo ConjhntinopU ; and at anotlier tmie in the Year i^z(^. Solyyymn the Magnificent liurmcd it feven times in one day, and wasevery time rcpulfed. At tliis place Count Peter Senm and trdngipani were beheaded, as being chiel Contrivers in the Huxiganun Revolt.
From hence through the Plains we came to Mount Simeren palTirg by Neivkhckel^ \vhere there is a Chappcl with a little red Pinnacle u hich they fay \vas built by an Englifh King \ I fuppofeby King Richard the firft, who was kept Prifoncr in Aujlria in his return from the Holy Land, whofe Ranfom built the old Walls, of /^/^^»dr. Mount 5/wer^« is a part of Mount Cctlui upon the top whereof lies an heap of Stones whichmake the boundary between Aufiria and Styria\ the afcent of the HjU is fteep and flony ; fo that fometimes it takes twenty four Hor- fcs or Oxen, to draw up a Cart or Coach.
We lodged at Schotwien or Schadtwi§'a^^ ftrange Town featcd between Rocks upon the pafiage of the Hills, the Houfesupon the fides of the Roclcs are inaccefllble but from the Top of the Hills^nd looking over the Plains, ferve for Watch-Towers ; thisisaclofe ftrong place, and called h\{ovc\.tClatfJtra Jnifrz^ ; having the Mountains on each hand, and ihut up with a Gate at each end ; a fmall current coming down from the Hills, is admitted into the Town under the Wall, which put me ia mindof thePidureof the Wall to the Kingdom oi Chzna^ wherein is exprefled the manner of the Rivers running into ChtHa^ the Wall being flill continued over them. From hence I came to AiehrzufchUg^ the place where they beat out the Iron uitc Bars; foto Ke'tmburg paffing by a fwift fmall River named Murtz^ then travelled by a Cafllc belong- ing to the Family tKStuhnherg^ whicli is efteemed one of the Ancientefl in Gcr>rany^ and came to Prug^ ieitcd upon the River Mur or Muer^ a livvtft large Riv«¥, but n^t navigabie, although after it hath pafled by Graiz and B^ok^'ntmrg it eWkrges. Prug ox Mnrtpons is nor tit built cnnfidcri^g the'C6i>fitry,and hath a h^ix Piazza, Another Town of tlus name tliekt fcen btfejse feared upon the Rivcf Leyta^ and for di- flinitlon called Prug upon \\\^ Lejta^ ^o forward by Luheim wliere the Ji?^ple of I'F^ is. f C*i¥!f«? ^^ KmtelfeUt a«d Jtidenhurg ftill nigh to tiie Rivci^ i%^/, tftene^^t diy Co/AW/iw^/*.^ zxidNewmark, then to Pre:- facr'\ \\'}^t\\ \^^^ pfep-fc tf^ I^o-ve be^n ^irmufn^ others ^acf»-7um,u\ fight ^ ' L 1 of
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y6 A Journey from Vienna into Styria,Carinthia,Carniob,Friuli,
of Altenhofn^ the Caftle of Itromtz^ and the Callle of Tottenhrun^ which belongs to the Arch-bi(hop of Saltzburg,
Then to St. PYit or St. Faith ^ formerly the chief City di Carinthia^ feated upon the Confluence of the River Clan and Wunkh^ it is walled about, hath fix Churches in it, a Piazza alfo, and in the fame a remar- kable Fountain with a Laver or Bafon of white Marble made out of one Stone, which was five of my fathoms in circumference : this noble An- tiquity was brought ixomSaalot Zolfeldt^ a place not far off^ and abounding with Rom.in Antiquities.
In fight of Vitopolis or St. Feit^ there are four remarkable Hills^ as the Hill of St. fVi/, St. Vlricky St. Laurence^ and St. Helena^ with a Chappel upon each of them, to all thcfe upon one da^in the year :he Inhabitants go in devotion on foot, although to perform the lame they mufl travel above thirty Englijh miles.
We Hayed at St. AV//, and bad the divertifement of a Lafine Come- dy at the Francifcan Convent, it was in May when the higher Hills were covered with faow^ but the lower were all green, lull of Firr
and
A Journey fromYicnm into Stma,Carinthia,CcTrniola,FriulT
and Larch-trees, it thundred and lighrned very much, and asfbon as it began they rung their Bells. Many here have great throats, fi)!ne as big as their heads, many are blind, divers dumband fools 'vvithal ; with- out the Town there is an Hofpital tor fuch as have loft their voice, their wits, or are othcrwifc^ opprdfed by their great throats, many of' them cover their throats, wnichotherwife arc very ill complexioned in cold weather. Men and Women have them, the better fort of Peoplc,\vhich live well,drink wine and good beer, are lefs fubjedl to them. I law big- ger throats in thefe parts, than any I had obferved in the Alphie par'ts o^Sayoy. * '
St. f^eit, \^hore name this place bears, was a zealous Chriftian who laboured much in tlie Converfion of thefe parts, and was periccuted under Diodefuin. Many Churches and Towns do carry his name in other parts of Europe, and the People have an opinion of St. A'd-z/m the curing of that dating difeafe called Chorea Saucli Plti. -
From hence we travelled to Saal,ox SoL4a,^wc\tx\x\j a Roman Colony an i fet down in the Map oiWolfiar:gi$ Lazms by the name of CJo^iu HolueTtfis; a Field near unto it, \sc-\\kd Ager Solaenfis or Zo/feUt, a place very fruirfol in Antiquities, many whereof have been carried into other parts : in tliis Field I faw that much fpoken of Anriqnity of the Kings Chair ; ir is made of Stone fet together in the form of two' Elbow- Chairs turned back to back. Upon tliree of the Stones there nre Infcrip- tions, but furelv more ancient than the Chair. At the inftalling of the Dnk^oiCarintkia, whether he be King, Prince, or Emperor ; either he himfelf or hi.s Subftit Jte fits in one part of the Chair towards the Eaft, and a Baur or Country-man in the other part of the Cliair toward the Weft ; and among other Ceremonies, the Country-man rifes up and prefents the Duke with a fat and lean Ox ; the Duke is obliged to take the lean and return the tat one, and afterwards to receive a gentle box on the car from the Country-man, and to after this manner isinftalled. ^ - f '
The Church of Saal is verV aneient, and hath efeaped the fury of tlie Barbarous Nations ; herein I faw the Tomb of Modesius a Companion of S. Feit^ it is a plain Monument, and they have a Tradition here^ that the Tomb hath removed it felf about a yard nearer unto the Altar than where it was firft placed. On the Church Walls are many old Roman Antiquities of good Bajfo relienjo^ which were firft taken out of Zolfeldt; thole which I chieflly oblerved were thefe. A Chariot with two Horfe:, A Chariot and a man in it. A Wolf Inking of fruit fallen from a Tree. Hetlor fasfned unto the Cha- riot of Achilles as he was drawn about Troy. Four fair Heads unto the middle. Two Wolves , each holding a Horn and a Cvp be- tween them., out of which Jkoots a P^'ine with Leaves and Grapes., this is over the Porch. Within the Porch is a C«/>/^ holding of a bunch of Grapes. Romulus and Remus fucking of a Wolf Two fit^uj-es over the Crucifix by S. Chnfiopher^ with fome others, all w-hidi Zolfeldt afforded ; where I alfo law many Inlcriptions, one upon a ft,one on the Suuth-fidc of the Church was this,
HERCVLI.
77
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78 A Journey from Vienna into Styria, Carinthia,Carniob,FriiilL
By Ain£xs Sylxiw,
MU
HERCVLI. E. E F O N A E. A V G. P R O S A L U T E. I M F- CAES. M. AVR. AN TON INI. PIi. FE LICIS. INVICTL .
alfo divers Roman Coins of Copper and Silver foiiad m thefe purts, and I brought away a Medal of 7>^;rf»'s in Gold.
From thence we came to CUgenfurt or Claudia of old, which is at prel'ent the chief Town in Cannthta^ a fair four fquare Town enclofed with an handlbm Wall; the Rampart is very broad; at each corner there is a Baftion, and one in the middle of each Curtam ; the Streets arc ftrait and uniform as well as the Works; there is alio 3 very fair Piazza in the middle. For the beauty of this place they are behold- en to the Induilrious Lutherans while they held this Country : The P.azza is adorned with a Column of Marble, and a Statue of :he Vir- gin upon it, alfo with a Statue of the Emperor, but above all with a noble Fountain in the middle, over which is a large prodigious Dra* gon made out of one Stone, Hercules with a Club Ibnding before it, v;hich the people think, to be the Statue of a Baur which killed this Dragon in thele parts. This was alfo brought from the above mention- ed Field of SaaL There are three noble Maily Fountains ofcfcrvablc in thefe hilly parts,, tliefe two of St. Feit zn^lagenfurt^ and another of white Marble at Saltzburg,
Among the odd CuTcoms of Carinthia there is an old one delivered of this place, that if a man were vehemently fufpcded of theft, they hanged him, and three days after judged of the FacT: ; if he' were found guilty they let his Ijody hang till a was corrupted, if otherwifc, they took down the body, buried it upon the publick account, and laid prayers for hii- foul. Clagenfurt was then full of Souldiers, where l!iad the honour to fee Count Leflej/ the chief Commander, Baron la, lUy, and my Lord P^ady who had a Company in the Town, whofc fingular civilities and favours I cannot fufficiently acknowledge, thev obliged me tobe at their Table while I Hayed, and one day my Lord Lcflcy carried me in his Barge through a handibm ftrcight cut into the U'erd-Sea or Lake of C/j^e';r/x/-r toa houfeofpicafure c^Wt^ Lgretto^ finely feated,and which hatli aChappel ui ic,hmlt after the fame manner with that diUretto in //o/^, which having formerly feen, I was the bet- ter able to confirm the exad imitation of it. Count Lefley is related to Monteciicuh^ and fo was pleated to give me Letters to A/V^;?^, and to other parts: The honour I had to know the right honourable the Earl of bi'&rwich. Earl Marlhal of En^l^d, did muchencreafe my kind reception among them, wiiofe worthy name i found not only kxTovvn in the Dominions of the Empire, bur afterwards ailbin turky.
Leaving Clagenfurt, I contifiued my Journey Southward," and af- ter a German mile and half crolTed the River Drav2:i where I found it already a large fwift River, pafiing over two long Brid^^s of Wood and an Ifland m the middle ; and after an hour or two I began to enter becw^een the Hills at a place called the Hammer^ where the Iron is bea- ten out, and proceeded in order to my palTage over Mount i:«;^<f/.
In
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A Journey from Vienna ^;^ro Stvria,Carinthia, Carnio]a,Friuli.
In a Ihort time entring into as odd a deibrt of Rocks as may be fcen vvhereth,re.saj5rcatC.y?.r.ortallofwaters, and the water ha hfo' worn the Rocks that a 1 feems to be artificial : the way up is made with VVa Is, turnmg backward and forward with great pains, and grea- ter Art tlian I could liave expeded in this Country. And in this manner we went on winding backward and forward till we reached the h, JS parage of the great Mountain Z;.M which is part a of the c5S
.If u-itT^"^?''"'!-'''';'"'^''-''""^'^^^' -'^'^ o"'^ "^ f'^en^^ft remark- able Hil s I ever faw ■ tor living i^aiTed up as high as the fteep Roc s
and Peaks xvould permit we turned fidewife by a made uay whSi led us into a hole or palfagc cut quite through the Mountain imita- ting the famed Grotto of the Hill Fa./i/.po, by N.p/es • the ^ s a Root of Wood- work in tiie middle, w^ic^i' is'confin^ed unto he Car,n,La„ fide ; the Root ot^ this palfage is high, the Icnghth of it is 156 yards, and it is tour yards broad. b » " ^i it is
Then:annerofpairing\hrough this Hill was furprizing unto me
"rk dtr/dd /."■" '""r' '---^'b^-^-, I thought St mi|ht be ta work ot the old R,>»iu»s, but I was afterwards mformcd that it was much later, and tint in former time there was no palfage into C.r.Ja thi. way, but they went about by r.l/ach. At fi/ft fight of this hole
Ch^nn^r'f r''' ^m" ''' Iconjedured it might be tfe haut tLn or Chappel of fome Hermit, but could not imagin how he Ihould come unto It, till at laft by the winding and turning of tl)e way up the HUI I did notonely pafs through it my lelf, but met with divers ParTencers who came out ot CarM and it is fo well contrived, that the Country carnages and Carts pafs through it every day. ^
In albending this Hill we had bad weather, rain and fierce hail and and d:e fnow laid ftill by the way-fide ,- and being fo higli at the time ot a ftorm, I had an opportunity to fee the Clouds dcfcend, an<i after it was paft to afcend again to high, as to get over part of the Mountain and a flrcam o them paffed through the hole out ofc.r.^o^u into r.rr/«' r/./-., oppofitely unto us who palled out ofOr/;.vZv.. intoO;v,;W^ or out of Ajr»te» into Cnien. '
This noble paffige beingalready fo well contrivedand in tl'e CoumrV of a aborious and induftrious people,is like to be continued,wlio remove the Inow with great pains in the Winter, and keep the way paffable and as we continually afcended till we came to this Grotto, fo when u-c were once got through it we always defcended,& camefirft toS. ■i-.^a two E»g/yh miles downward, then to N.wfiattd a Germun mile and half further l^ill delcending, and proceeded forward till we came to Cramhurg, which is thought to have been formerly Carmdunun,,-^ good Town leated upon the River ^.;^w, from whence through a fair Plain four German miles long, we came to Uhach or Lubiana the clvef Citv of Carmola ; the River Lalacb runs through it, which falls a*'-er- wards into the Su^^,s. It is an handfome City with a Caftle feated up-
Z!lu "*iV ;'^'V°'''n'''?''V^"'''"Se Valleys to the North and 5outh, and hath a fair Profped of many Hills and Callles, but being oom,T.anded by another Hill not far from it, it is negle(fted, a;t!iough ^e find that it hath endured a ftrong Siege, for while the Emperor f%-
mW^h^rf. p '''' advantage to befiege it, but it made fo goad re- liUance that the Emperor had time to raile the Siege and delircy the
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8o A Journey from Vienna /;//o Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,FriuH-
Army. At Lalach I happily met with Mr. tojh a Scotch Apothecary in that Town, who was very civil unto me, informing me of the places about, and Ihewing me many Curiofities, and the leveral Minerals of
thofe p^rts. r i t j-
This place is conceived to be old Nauportus famous for the landing of the Argonautesy who fetting forth from Argos Pdafgicum in Theila- ly failed unto Celchos on the EaftTide of the Euxim Sea, but bcirg purfued by the King of Coichos his V«flels difpacchcd after them, they declined returning by the Hellejpont, but bearing Northward entn d the mouth of/Jler or Dambius, afld pafled up the River till they carrc to the concurrence of the Dandtus and the Sa%us, and taking up the Savus they came to the River Lahachy and went up that River landing about this place anciently called Nauportus, and then travelled to the Adriatick Sea and returned unto Greece. So that in my travels I had been near their fetting out in Thejfaly, and at the place of their landing
in Carniola.
From hence we travelled towards the Zirchnitzer-Seey or famous llrangc Lake oi Zirchnitz having the Marlhes on our right, hand,and the Hills on our left* till wecameto Broumiza, and then palling over them we came to Zirchnitz, a Town of about three hundred Houfes, which gives the name unto the Lake, here I apply ed my felf unto ^«- ffreas Wifer the Richter or Judge of the Town who afforded me di- rections and accommodations for the viewing of the Lake ; and went down to SeedorffyZ Village half a mile nearer the Lake, and then to Ni- derdorffy where I took Boat and fpent fome time upon the Lake.
This Lake is about two German miles long, and one broad, encom- palled with Hills at fome diftance, and upon the South-fide lies a Forefl part olBirnlaumer Foreft, which extends a great way, where- in are xmny Dear, wild Boars, Foxes, Wolves and Bears.
Every year in fome part of the Month of Tune, the water of this Lake defcends under- ground through many great holes at the bot- toms; and in the Month of 6*if/r^w/fr returns again by the fame holes ; and with a fpeedy afcent, fpringing and mounting up to the hcighth of a Pike, and foon covering that trad of ground again. When the water is under-ground, the Earth makes a Ipeedy produdiion of of Grafc yielding food for Cartel in the Winter, and at the fame time. Hares, Deer and Boars refort to this place out of the Country, and the fore-mentioned Forell, and are often taken by the people.
The Lake affords plenty of Fiih, btit they fiih but by permiHion, ibr the Prince of Eckenherg is Lord thereof, and a good part of the Country about, but upon the going away of the water, all have liber- ty to take Filh, which they do by flanding in the water by the holes, and fo intercepting their paflage take great plenty of them, which o- therwife would follow the water under-ground, anj not returns again until Septemher. I could not hear that any unknown Fiflies were brought up by the water, but thofe which come up are of the fame kind with thofe which went down, w hich are a kind of Carp, Tench, Eels, and fuch as are common in other Lakes ; and they are rather gainers than Loofers hereby, when they come up, for the Fifh having fpawned before, the fry that goes down hath had about three months growth under ground when they are brought up again.
' ■ The
A Journey from Vienna into Scyria,Carinthia, Carniola^FriuIi, 8
The Ground under tlie Lake is very unequal, and the water not near ** of the fame depth, but in fome places four foot, and then fuddenly asaia twenty yards deep : and becaufe the Filh frequent the Valleys or deep- er places, more than the Hills or eminent parts, the Filhermcn wlio know the place wet and dry, have given unto leven of thefe Valleys peculiar names, which in the Sclavonian^ the Language of that Coun- try^ are thefe,
Vodunas, . ;
Rejketiu ' . . . -,
Sitarza.
Rlhijhkiama:. . ' ' .
b^aknijhu* '^
LeviJhC'
KotteL
t pafTed over the five firft mentioned Valleys, and went to a noted Stone called the Fifhcrs Stone, by the appearance whereof they can Conjea:ure how foon the water will dcfcend, and by an Hill which when the water is high becomes a pleafant Ifland, and then return- ed.
They can give no account that this Lake hath failed any year to defcend and arife again, or have any tradition how long this property of the Lake hath been obfer\ ed. Some Lakes have been made by Earth-quakes,but it is more probable that this hath been from all Ant> tjiiity, and according to the beft conjedturcs.this is the Lngea Pdtu of Stitaho, and therelore more Itrange that the Ancients are fiJent in this remarkable account.
The neareft Sea unto this Lake is the Sinus tergeflinus, and Siniu Flanatkiu, the Gulf of Triejie, and the Gulf oiQievero. And not ma- ny miles from hence are the Heads of divers confidcrable Rivers, aS that of Lahuch^ the Corcoras or Gurk^ the Colapis or Culp^ which run into the SaTjm. The Vipao or amms frigdtu which runs into Ly- fonfo by Goritta, and divers more, but whither thefe Rivers arife where the Lake falls, I coulfi Hot learn.
The Ground not far from this Lake is very hollow and full of Ca- verns, and I obferved many Caverns and deep holes in other parts of Carniola fomewhat like unto Elden hole in Dariy/hirf, and I was in- formed by the moft confiderable perfons at Zirchnitz that the Princ6 of Eckenherg had the curiofity to go into one of them, and came out again upon the fide of an Hill.
I was upon confideration whether I fhould go from hence unto ter- gefttim now Triejle, a Port-Town of the Emperor's in the Adriatick- Sea, and then by Ship to FeMtce, but having been in many Mines be- fore I had a dcfirc alio to fee the famous Quick- filver Mine at Idria iit the County of Gontm ; and parting from Zirchnitz I pafled by Lwecq and travelled over Mountainous parts till I came to /aVw, which isen* compaffed with Hills on all fides, and a River of the fame name runs by It, which although Lcandro Alherti X.zxms[uperb}fimo fiume d'Idrza yet I found It fmall and ihallow at the time when I was there, uport plentiful rains houfbcver it proves fuiScient to convey down the Firr- trees, and other \\ood rtquired in the building of the Mines, and alfo
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82 A Journey from Vienna into Styria,Carinthia,Carmola,FriulL
forfiiel neceflary in thcfervice ofthem ; and to this end there is an handlbmc work of Piles made flopeing a-thwart the River, ("after the lame nunncr as I obferved at Newfo/ in upper HuTigary crofs the River Gran) to ftop the Trees which are cut down and call into the River
lix}ve this place.
What is chiefly confiderable in this Town are the Quick- filver Mines, very well known to the neighbouring parts, and exceeding ufeful to many at greater dilUnce.
The entrance into thefe Mines is not high or upon an Hill, but in the Town it fclf, whereby they are fomewhat the more troubled with water, againft which they are provided with many excellent Engines and Devices, as at other deep Mines ; the deepefl part of the Mine from the entrance is between one hundred and twenty, and one hun- dred and thirty fathoms.
Of the Quick-filver of this Mine they have two forts, the one call- ed Jungfraw^ that is virgin Quick-filver, the other plain Quick-filver, virgin Mercury they call that which difcovers it felf without the help of nre, and is either plainly to be fecn in the Earth or Ore, or falls down in little drops in the Mine, and fometimes ftreams out in good
Suantity ; as about feven years ago it ran out of the Ear: hat firft ina ream as fmall as a thred, and afterwards as big as a Pack-thred, but ceas'd in three or four days.
. That alfo is accounted virgin Quick- filver, which having no need to pafs the fire, is feparated by water firft in a Sieve, and afterwards in a long Trough, having very fmall holes at one end, fo that there is in a manner two forts ot Virgin Mercury ; the one running out and dif- covering it felf without labour, tlie other requiring fome way of extra- d:ion and feparation, though not fo high an one as by fire.
Plain Quick-filver they name that which is not at firft perceived by the eye, or falls from the Ore, but is forced out by fire, and this they obtain out of the Ore, or out of the natural Cinnabar of Mercury whicii they dig out of this Mine. The Ore is of a dark colour mixed with red,but the beftis a hard Stone which they commit not prefentl) to the fire, but powder it grofly and work it by the fieve, that fo if any Virgin Quick-filver be found in it, it may be feparated in this manner, and what doth not pafsthe fieve,may be feparated by fire in Iron Fur- naces, fifty of them in a fire.
The Quick- filver-Ore of this Mine is the richeft of all Ores I have yet fecn, for ordinarily it contains in it half Quick-filver, and in two parts of Ore one part of Quick-filver, and fometimes in three parts of Ore, two parts of Quick filver.
i went into the Mine by the Pit of St. Agatha^ and came up again by that of St. Barbara^ defcending and afcending by Ladders ; I alcen- ded at one of fix hundred and thirty nine ftaves, or eighty nine ia- thonas. Sijerm in Kirchers Mundus fuhterrancus makes fuch a dread- ful dcfcriptton of this Mine,that it might difcourage any from attempt- ing the defcent, which makes me doubt, whether he had been in any other Mine, efpccially where the defcent is made by Ladders.
In a Laboratory,wherc the Quick-filver is feparated by fire, I faw an heap of fixteen thoufand retorts of Iron, every one of which colls a Crown at the beft hand from the Iron Furnaces in Carinthia : here- in are alfo at one time eight hundred retorts, and as many recipients
employed
A Jourmyjr^ Camiola,Friuli. 8^
employed together m drawiiip; over the Quick-filver in fixteen Furna- ces, fifty in each Furnace, twenty five of a fide, twelve above and thirteen below ot eacli fide. '
^^f- 12. 1669. When I was there they carried out forty faumes of V^uick;lilver into Foreign parts, each liumc containing three hundred and h teen pound weight to the value of four thouiand Ducats of Gold though the conveyance be not eafie, ior it is earned upon Horfes backs, two Imall Barrels upon each Horle, yet feme is fent as far as a:re^;;;tz in Hu^g.ry for the ule of the Gold Mme, and lome into Sive^ den. and other remote parts.
In the Gallic I (aw three thoufand faumcsof Quick rj^^^ Barrels the Quick-filver being firft made up in double LeatheF: and m another Houic as muck rich Ore as can be deftilled in two rears, except they have great plenty of rain to bring down the wood/ but the Hills being high about tliem, it fnows at the tops of them oftner than it rains.
Thoic Strangers wlio come into the Caftle of /./>/.,,have their names let down in a Regu'lcr-Book, with the Country of which they are Na- tives, and the Catalogue is large, but o\' E^gljjh men there are few ■ of late years oncly Mr. Evehn and Dr. Pope, with their Company' of wliole obicrvations there is an hnnd fome account in the Philofophical TranlaChons (ome time fince. This place is the more gratefuj to Stran- gers in relpedlthat it being a Frontier Town, and bordering upon di- vers Nations, many Languages are underftood here, and I obferved that the- c were five fpoken freely by the Officers and better fort of People Leudes French which was not excluded from this place, though not fo eltcemed or defired. viz. Irmliart, ScUvoman, German, Z.j//« and Ita^ lian.
Leaving Llria I pallid over Swaruaiherg or the black Mountain, and dciccnded about ten miles through a flony Country far worfe than the Crau or Itony Plain in Provence, and came to Ado(hint, and then to Go- rttia or Ncreja ot old, the chiefefl place of the Country oiGorhia well ^""'"'''' Icared and overlooking a iair Plain to the South-Weft. The Empe- rors Governour ot this Country lives in the Caftk-, and hath had of late a Guard granted unto him, having been fet upon by a Gentleman ot the Country, who tor that fadt was banilhed , and his Houfe rated.
Travelling in the night, we had fometimes about us a great number ot large Glow-worms, which put into papers gave a dim light : and in fome pinces in the Plains the Air was full of flaming flies affordina fome deligtit to us. °
The Carniulnim fpeak a DialecT: of the Schvonian, but in thefe parts they have a Language called L,ngua Fnllana, or Fnukna-, he that Ipeakerh Italian may underftand much thereof. The Lords Prayer in that Language begins thus, Pari Nejlri di ees in Ctjlfee Smtiftcaat tuto nom, CS'c. '
That neat kind of Acer whereof Violins and Mufical Inflruments are made, profpers well in thefe parts, as alfo in Camiola and Sahzhur?- landt, where they make Trenchers and Tables of it, «nd at an eafie rate- I brought (ome of the tair broad Leaves fi-om thence.
. V^''!''!",^ ^"■''''' ^ P^^^^'^ ^'^^ ^^^^'^ ^'"*^"*' or Lifonzo which arifina tn tl)e Hills above runs into the Adriatick Sea. Near this River, OdoacTr
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84 A Journey frovi Vienna i/ito Styria,Carinth]a,Carniola,Friuli.
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who had made himfelf King o{ Italy, was (lain in a Battel L-y I'heodorkk KingoftheG(?f/'i. And hither the Turks came under the command ot A[a-Beg in the year i 177. in the time di Mahomet the Great,over- ^xtw ^ercnimusi^Qvello<^o\\r\toHerma nnd a famoi's Commander of thofc times, flew him in Battel, together witli his Son and moll ot his Commanders, deflroyed a Party ot' three thouland Vtmtiam, and fet a hundred Villages on Fire. Alterwards travelling on tlirough Mea- dous, I came unto the llrong and well iorrificd City ot'i'^/w^/ A^'^^-a, built fince to hinder the like mcurfions.
Ail this long Circuit until wc came within a male of Falma Nova we were in the Emperors Dominions, which are much larger than com- monly apprehended, and having looner or later itcn the grcateil part thereof, I cannot but be of that opinion, for he pcfTclIes all At'fjtria^^ Styria^ Cari^thia, Canuola, part o)i Croat/a, IJtna, and Frtuli, p.irtof Alfatla, the large County ot 1 holts, the large Country of Bohemiay Moravia, Silefia, and fome part of Lufatia, and a conriderablc part of Hungart^ ; from Preslourg to Tockay and ZatLmar, above two hun- dred and fifty miles, and the Inhabitants of ihele Countries being an hardy ftout and valiant People, I cannot but think him a great and powerful Prince, and an happy Bulwark of Chnflendcm againll the
Palma Nova in Friuli is the largcfl; regular Fortification I have ob- fervcd, it hath nine Baftions, bearing the names of fome noble P'ene- tians, which have little to be excepted againft but their round cars, on each Curtain there are tv^o Cavalliers, the Rampart is much higher than the Wall, upon which there are planted a hundred good Gun.v, and mawy more ready upon ali cccafions, the Ditch is thirty paces broad, and twelve deep ; it is kept dry to render the Town more healthful, but may be filled with water upon oecafion, as that oiVten- na, much whereof is kept dry leail it Ihould injure their deep Cellars; there are three Gates, Porta Mantima, Porta di Cividal, and Porta di Vdtnt. Between the Porta Marittma, and the Porta di Vdine lie thcle three Baftions Fojcarlni^ Savorgnan and Gnmani, Between the Fcrta di Tjdinc and Porta di Civtdal are three others named Barbara, Dona and Mont€. And between the Porta di Civtdal and the Porta Manti- wrf are thefe three. Garzoni,ContariTii and Villa Chzara. They were then making one fair Half-Moon before each Gate : In the Center of theQty is fixed a Standard over a Triple Well, in the middle of a Sexangular Piazza, from whence a man may lee the three Gates and fix Streets quite through the Town. The Piazza is beautified with the Front of the i?ow<? Church, divers Statues, and an Obelisk much gil- ded.
In the middle of the Bridge there is a Draw-bridge made with fuch Artifice, that the sentinel difcovering any force approaching, may by onely touching a certain Iron with his foot draw up the Bridge ; many handfom contrivances for Draw-bridges I had i^^w in other parts, fometimes many upon one Brxlgc, and not onely one alter or behind another, but alfo fometimes two or three on a breit, the our( rmcll: ;:>nes ferving for tlie retreat of the foot, that in the middle tor ue Hcrfe and Carriages. Some Draw- bridges are not to liJt up, but to be drawn on one fide, and fo bv onely turning of it l4kc to the opening ol a Gate PaP- fcnger-s are conveyed over the Mo« and laaded j but thofe which
- ^ ■ picaled
Tjourneyjr-om Vienna into Sr/na, Carmthia,CarniokFriulL 85
plcalcd mr moil: v/cre the Dr.i'-v- bridges at .-ifyijfer^jm, which part in the middle, and a Vcllcl tliciigh under fiiil mav pafs them, without tlie help ofanv one on flioar, for tlie IViaft. head, or break-water of the Ship bearing a;:ainft tlic Bridii,e in the middle, opens it.
At PaUu f^'ova tlic Vcvetiam have made a cut trom the Sea to the Town capable ot good VcircLs,and broad and deep enough to bring pro- vifions and luppUes upon occahon to this place.
This is at proient efteemed one of the nobleft Fortifications in Enrfpe^ begun by the Vaietiam i J94. and is a notable Bulwark of their State and Italy, for this way the Hum and barbarous Nations palled into Ita- ly, and this way the Turks have formerly made in-roads almoft as for as
Irrj'ifo. . . 1 1 1 V
Having feen many of the chief Fortifications in Eumpe, I had the "reater defirc to take a view of this, becaufe it carries lb great a fame, and is faid to have been contrived by Military advice from all parts, ;7nd as alfo becaufe the Vcnctiam would have it believed to be the no- i^ileft Fortification, not onely in Eumpe, but in the World ;^ I heartily v^ifli they mav never know a complete T'.<rki(i} Army before it, efpe- cially when ever they are in no good condition to relieve it. If tlie Emperor,tIirGUgh wb.ofe Countries the turks mult pafs to come to this place and the RepubHck hold firm, it will be hard for the Turk to come unto it, and if the Turk fliould be at luch a peace with the Fene- tians as may' bind up their Fleet trom alhfting the other parts of Italy, he lliall not need to attempt it or make liis way into Italy by that place for vi hether the Naval Forces of Italy without the alfiftance of the Venefun^, be able to refill a complete furkijh Fleet, fo as to hinder landing and falling upon that Country fome other way, is much to be
doubted. ^ ,. », ~ r i. rr
From Talma nnxa I went to Mar an St. Vito, a Port Town of the Fe-
neiians in Tr;uli, fo named from St. AV/o, who is faid to have been bu- ried in this place. , r i- i u /i r e- ■ /• At this Town we took a FellHca, and fay ling by the flioar of Frmlz or Tatr'a we paffcd by Tirlo di Taiamento, and came to Cahorle. In th=s illand there is a Church dedicated to the BlelTed Virgin feated up- on the Sta-tlioar nigh the Waves, yet faid never to be overflowed by the Sea being as it were the Halcjon Ncft ot its Patronels, and a place of remarkable devotfon. On this ilioar we refretlied our felvcs and were divertifed at Sea in feeing them take She!l-fi(h, and then paf- fins by i:^Te«2^,where tlic Sea came formerly up as high as OpitergtHm, and afterwards bv Porto di Piave, I arrived at remce entnng by the Porto de Cajlcin 'pafTing by the Carthujians Convent, and landed at the
Piazzao{St.Mark. , r 1 rr J .
Here I found the whole City highly concerned tor the Hazardous Stztt o'i Ca>idia, which was loft foon alter, Dominico Cantanm thepre- fent Duke was fedulous in that atTair. The Voyage of (ihtron Francifio Marche/e Filla, General of the Infantry of Ca«i//^, with a journal ot a Siege had been lately publilhed, and was in many hands.
There was alfo afupi^y of Auxiliaries in good readineft ; it was at that time a more than ordmary hot Scafon, and fome of our Englijh Sea Captains and Mafters told me, tliat they had leldom met wittt luch hot weather even beiw een the Trofuki.
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A Journey fromVicnmiTito Sty tn^ Carinthia,CarnioIa,FriuIi,
Having formerly had a view of I^o^^^TTk^^ great Cmes of //^/y and pafTcd feme time at Fa^oa a few vears before I made but a fliort ftay about Fen^ce, ai d having reviewed what uas molt confiderable, and renewed my acquaintance with fome worthv courteous Friends at ren.ce and PjJoa, Mr. /V.ues the Conful Mr //./ >, Dr. CWW, and others, I difpofed my affair for my return to y/enna the ordinary way, "^
In order thereto I took Boat at Fe^ke and landed at Me/lre a pret- ty Town, and the befl: place for accommodation for fuch as travel into Germany hy Tiro/, or into Aujlna by /^r/W/; from hence I travelled ten miles through a pleafant plain Country till I came to Trevifo or T^z-jy/z^w, which gives the name unto the Country about La Marc i Trevigtana a handf^me City adorned with good Houfcs/ Churches Towers and Fountains, The clear River Sde or ^//^ runs through It, and afterwards into the Sea between Mcjhe and Murano ; it aboun- ds m good Wines and Fruit, and was a chief Seat of the Lombards in thele parts. This old City, after having run various fortunes and been under the fubjedion of the //«;,y, and other conquering Nations and fometimes obeyed the Signorz della Scala, and the Carrarefi was united to the State of r«f«/f^m the year 1^88. It was converted to the Chri- Itian 1-aith by Frofdochtmus a follower of St. Peter. Eight miles from hence ftood the Ancient City Altlmm founded by Antenor, and de^ ftroyed by Attila.
From thence I came to Lovadha, and crofl^d the great River Piave Fla%'is, or Anafus, which arising in the Mountains, pafles by the Ci' ties o^Be/iuna and Feltre, then to Canaan or Co.^gUa., and next to Sa^ alle or Sactllum, formerly a Bilhops See under the Patriarch of ^^«.7^i^ a pieafant and well-built place eflccmed the Garden of the Republick' and feated by the River Z/^^.;,^^^ which pa fling bv ^W
runs into the Gulf of P^enke. b ^. ^ J^^t^a
Here I took a guide to condud me through the Plains and Mea- dows and came to i>///^^.r^., where I again took a Guide to crofs the fwift River r^/^ff.^«f. or Tzliaventum ; this isefleemed the greateft Ri verinj./^/. anfingaboveinthe?.//^^ A/pes,^n,\mnnmido^n into the Adnattck Sea, and often over-flowing a areat part of the nlo^ Country, This fwift River put a flop to^heEr^lon 0/ ^^^^^^^ when W.r 5^/r.^^ broke into FrM with twelve thousand
S?ond^ ""^^^ ^" ^^^'''^ ^'"^^ ^" ^^^' ^^^gn 0{ Sultan Bajazet the
Not far from Spilimlergo I pafTed a neat River or notable Cut call- ed LaBrentella, fixteen miles long, made b^ th^ Venetians for the bet- ter bringing down of wood from the Mountains to be ufed in the making ot GlaiTes at Muran ; it is all paved with a good Stone, bottom and fides, -the bottom fs round, fo that it is fomewhat like a Tube opened orfpht in two.
Then I paired by St. Daniel feated upon an Hill by Hofpitaletto and came to yenjone a.Town feated at the beginning of the Hills, and formerly the limit of the ^.;;.r..;, Dominions ; thqnce bv Re^uta to r^ Chiufa, a place remarkable for the ftreiglit pafTage of thr ..hes, where the Venetians keep a guard,and fhut up the pafTage every night • from thence I came to Fonteia or Ponte Fella upon the River Fe!:a, the ex- aa Confines between the Venetian and Imperial Dominions, and
furely
A JouY7ieyfrom Vienna />/o Stvria, Cannthia,Carniola,FriuL 8 7
furely a man can feklom pafs more clearly and diftindly from one Country unto another than in this Town ; on one fide of the Bridge live Itidians^ Subjects unto the State o{ Venke^ on the other fide Ger^ wans, Suhjedts unto the Emperor. Upon the one fide their Buildings, their manner ot livmg, their empty Rooms, large Windows, Iron Bed- Heads ihow them to be Italians : On the other fide immediately thtir Stoves, higher Bed- (leads, Feather-beds one over another, Iquare Ta- bles, and tlieir Balbn and Cloth by the Wall declare them to be Ger*' wans ; the Bridge it fell" is alio half /r^//*;?;;, halt Datch^ one part being built of Stone, and the other of great Tiees laid over after the German talhion of making bridges. Between Ven/one and Ponteha there are many great Cz/t^/^rf .J or talis of waters j but of feveral pailage^of the Alpes this fecmcd unto me the bcil and molt eafie.
In thele Mountainous places t was entertained with ftrange ftories of the Snow which covers thefe Hills in the Winter, as how many pikes length the Snow was deep in Ibme places, how round the Coun- try would look when all the craggy Rocks uerc covered, how a Snow- ball thrown 'iown from a Mountain would fo gather and augment ini the fall, as to do great mifchief in the Valley, and that if the fmflleft Bird Ihould tut fcrapc with her foot at the edge of an high Hill, that little beginning might lo encreafe in the defcent, upon a thaugh, 4s to over- whelm an Houfe at the bottom.
From hence by Tervis^ and 77/-/, unto ViUach^ or Villack, an hund- fome Town, and one of the chiefeft in Cannthia ; but before I came to Plllach I went to fee the Natural Baths which were not much out of the way at the foot of an Hill about an Englifh mile from the Town and in good efteem. There are tv\o clear Sulphureous Baths, but very gent- ly warm, and have an acid and no unpleaianttafte ; the bottom is not planchcrcd nor paved, but hath its own natural Spring and Settlement with It ; yet mto one there is a hot Spring let in which arifes by it 1 they arc large and have Hairs to delcend into them, with little Rooms of wood about them for accomtnodation, they are covered over, and they bathe in them cloathed with Ihirt and drawers as in Au/iria.
Not far from hence is a Lake called the OJfiucker See^ from Offiack a Town upon the fide thereof, and is one of the moft confiderable Lakes in Cannihia^ there being befides it, thefe which are remarkable, the White Lake, xh^ MiUJiatter^xht PJ^erd^ and the Forchten; this Lake doth net onely abound in Fifii, but affords great plenty oiOffiacker Nuts, whit^h the people eat, and fome make Bread of; which notwith- flandmg upon examination I found to be no other than very lar^e Seeds oiTrihulus AquaticuSy or water Gallthorps.
From yillacb I ibon came to the Werd See, and keeping it continual- ly on my right hand, I travelled by the fide of it till I came to Clagenfur- te^ and then palled again to St. Feits^ where I met Mr. Donellany from whom, upon my former defires to him, I received an account of the great Lead Mines in upper Carinthta at Bleyberg, where they have worked eleven hundred years, and the Pits are deep ; Federnus Stollen or Cun'icidiis is an hundred and ten fathoms deep in the Earth, and the Hills fo hiLZ^h about it, that upon the melting of the Snow in the Spring, there is often mudi hurt done, the Snow fowling and falling in fuch vail heaps that nothing is able to refift it, fo that in the year 16^4. it iell fo vchementlv tliat it deftroyed and carried away fixieen Houfes.
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88 A Journey from Vienna into Sty ria, Carinthia,Carniola,FriuIi.
He prelented me alio with many handfome natural Curiofkies colJcd:- ed by him in thole parts, one of which among the reft I cannot but mention which was a rich large fair piece of natural Cmnahur found in Cretvait, or in the Foreft oi' Cre, two German miles from St. Feits in the Lordlhip of Oojhrwitz, where there hatli been great quantities found out, for the H/'err von Staudach above thirty \cars ago as he was hunting in this Foreft, being thirfty and la}'ing down to drink out of a little ftream which runs from the top of the Hill, he per- ceived the ftream to be full o'i Cinnabar, but fince it hath been fo dili- gently fearched after, that without working and digging for it there is Jittle to be found.
From St. Veitz I continued my journey by Friefach, where formerly there was a Gold Mine, and then by Newmark, Hundtsmark^ FeltfiU KnitelfeUt, Luibm, Prug, Keimherg, Mehn-u-SchLig, Schadtwiof^ Nem- kirckel, Newftadt, Sfllmjiv, Trajkirchel, Newdjrff, to Wien.
This my return from Fenke to Ftema, about three hundred and fif- ty Italian miles, was the moft quiet journey I ever made, for not meet- ing with good Company I performed it alone, and upon one Horfe • and although there are feveral Nations.and no lefs than four Lanrrau^cs fpoken upon this road, yet I met with no difturbance from any nor did any one ask from whence I came, or whirher I would go, no'trou- bleas to Bills of health, and good accommodation in the Inns at an ea- fierate, they are for the moft part a plain People, make good Sourdi- ers, little mutinous, but obedient to commands, and hardy, and are of good ufe and fervice unto the Emperor.
In my travels in Germany I leldom failed to meet with Jews but in this journey I met with none, or fuch as I could not well d;ft'in<^ui<h for though there were then whole Villages of Jews in Auflr/a yerthev were prohibited in Stjria, and feverelv bani/lied out o{ Carin^bia fo that for thofe Jews who travelled between Fenice and Fiemu • the Emperor dilpenccs with them as to their Ruff; and the Feneti\ns as to their red Hat.
To fay any thing of P^ienna may feem fuperfluous, divers having written thereof, and it might fall better in, if ever I Ihould defcribe mv journey from the Low Countries to Fienna, and from Fienna by the way of Moravia, Bohemia, Mifnia, Saxoma unto Hamburz ■ mean While I would no longer defer to give fome account of places lefs known or lefs defcnbed in Pannonian, Dacia», M^/ian, Grcecian Nori cum and ///yrwa Countries, which in their proper order are deliverpr^ m this Work. iiv^.icu
In my Travels through Hu^garia and the Imperial Provinces I
could not but take notice of fome Afierticns which I could not ve'^i he.
Belgrade is commonly counted to be in I/nngaria, and fo defcribed by fome Authors, but if ftridtly confidered it is feated in Serv^a or Ma/ta Su perior, beyond th« bounds of Huugaria. '
That St. Jerome was a Pannoman may be granted, but that he was a Native oiHungaria, ftrickly taken may be doubted, for he was born in ^tndon, now conceived to be Stredon or Strejna, on tlie inward or Weftern fide of the River A/«., before it runs into the Dravm 7nd Ts accounted in iVfim^rie. ' " ^
It is faidby F/,„,e Curjla Sav^ i7o7mmrp^ir„,',^^~^^^:^^ '
ot Che Savus is an liundrcd and riftv milcs. uhich if account JT^ the^ead is much too ll.ort, and not n,uch mor. InSZt:^,
JlTJ'y^^ ^''J '^""■'^'•'^"^ '"^" f'^'^ -Dnr.,.,, fcems affirmed by Strabo, Fu^mn N,,,^ort„ Jjur^^u. el/ Corcoras y.. r^erc.s accpu, Z in
R^r 7/ ' "T '': TT\ ^'^" ''^ ^^' *^'- ''^""^ A^-/- /«/i ll e
into rife r' "' '^'? ""f' c'^'''^' '''''^'' '^'' Merchancl.f s, thi ru s into the Savus, and tlic S.nm into the Dravus whereis tlie s' , ! never runnetli into the Drav.s^ and when it enters iL A it t 2" grade is about an hundred miles from it.
The diflance v.hichS^,alo ir.akes between Ar^r^ikia and ^Mmrf>., or Lalach of four hu,,drcd iflrlongs or fifty m.Ies, though lomtvl too fhort may be fairlv tolerated, hut wh^at he delivers of tKt between Terge^^.m or Trr.J/e, and the Da.ule not to be made out /).; ^ Tergejlo ad Danubium, Stadiorum crater mdlc & .W^ that 'he . .journey from Ir.e/ie to the Da.ube was about one thou and nd t o ' ' hundred furlorgs, or an hundrcl and fifrv miles, u hich is too"l or a meafure unto rhe neareft part <,f the A.,./., which w 11 make C two hundred and fifty miles ; but the Ancums m.ght fj^^^err £. in fince fome of them were miftaken m the true cou fe o 1 e 2.^? which they conceived to have one branch to run into tt " <^. it-
[went this Tourney u'hen tlie Sun was in Cancer, in the Iiotteft tire of the year, and the heat u as very offenfive to me'in the great Pa^s of F. ../. and Mina ; but in the .;//... it was much more mode at?
all the Grafs in A^^Jhra was burned up by the Sun, and if there were not a continual bree.e about the middle of the day uy.oall^^al Plams, efpecially in Southern Countrics.the heat would c intoleSle- and I could not but take nor.ce hou' pleaiar.tiv tlie poor Pcafaiif in the ^//>/«.Countnc.sd.vert.(edtlicmfelv,:s in the Fields and dta' their bour u ou d be lively and brisk, fomcrimes playtt C 1 w t^ SiSj of a fpan long, luch as they have in thofe Countries, wh L the cl Coun ry-men m A./iru uere faint and r^nlpipg for brearli no dx any thing avad them that .'.//.., was more Northern then '^tV' Car^.tL-a, lor there may be as much difference as to the temperature of he Air, and as to heat and cold in one mile, as in ten deg e of Lat^! ude, and he that would cool and retrefh himfelf in the^mmer 1 ad better go up to the top of the next Hill, than remove into a fTr more Northern Country. I have been readv to fVeeze on tl^e top of a H. I and m an hours time alter have iuHered as great inconvenience i om
m'Z^i 'H' ""'f '• f ''V^'^-^ -^"^'' '^" iS: been u " H.U with a clear sky, and good weather, and have feen a Valley m-
P^ar I ' fin n '"'"^ '' u" ' !' ""^^ ^'''' °^ ^'^^ Clouds made th.em appear 1 ke fine Down or Wocll, and made the ioi\,{i Aveeteft li-hts
and Ihadows imaginable ; afteruards u hen we defeendcd into 1h Valley under the Clouds we had no fuch plealaoit Profped but wS'e rained upon the moft part of the day. In'that hot Co ntr; of / I^ Travdlers complain moft of the cold they fufTcr in palling^ t e H.l? The Mountains in Ita.j and 6>.« are fome of them civ.red with "now
^ and
^
*,
4>
^t-H •-
A Journey fromVKV\n2i into Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,Friuli.
and Ice all the Summer long. I have beard that Mount Atlas is fo alfo, from Dr. Butler who lately travelled in thofe parts, and from others ; when in Great Britain there is no fuch thing. At U»don we have Winters for the moft part favourable, when Captain James who went to difcover the North- weft palfagc, and to fearch if there were any communication between the Atkntick Ocean and the South Sea in the Northern part of America^ as there is in the Southern, fuffercd more hardfliip in the fame degree of Latitude then the nine E«giijh men who were left all the Winter in GreevLnd, and Baffin, on the contrary, upon the fame defign had a pleafant Voyage in an open Sea, and met with Inhabitants upon the Shoar, till he came within nme degrees of the Pole. But I fliall wander too far out of the way, and therefore wUl put an end to this Difcourfe. '
A
JOURNEY
FROM
NORWICH
TO
COLEN
GERMANY.
iN the year 1668. I left the large and pleafant City of N.w and went by land to Tarry>outb,z Port Town in Norfolk at the mouth of the River HieruslilTr^.
tere'nr H '^' and populous very confiderable fo^ the great Herring fiflnng in the Autumn, and the commerce it maintains in the Streishts • Balt^t . Brn^Jh and G.r«,^« Seas : With llaliam Fri t
Spaniards, Dutch, Danes, and Swedes I wis h^. nil i ' ''^'^' by that worthy and oiling ^^ \Zl, ^X^f ih? affo Ir' mfl.t me with Letters of Credit, to Amjlerdam, FraikfoZreft Zd Fienna - Whereby I was readily and handfome y accommodate lin^M Parts where I Jiad afterwards occafion to travel "'^^"""^^^^^^'^ '^ ^11 AugHJl the 14. about fix a Clock at Night I went aboanJ rh^ j . 1 Ketch m larn:cuth Road, a V.flbl of about 4 Tuns 3, ^'^"
dmelyletf.ylfor,,..W,^, ^,, Cl7,.'r^Jj::^:^ ^^^^l^'
be n f h"^''''" "",' '^'^ """''^''^ "^ ""^^ ^=^"d' ^ot taken notice of 'to be raifed above twelve years before. We kept our courfe aH nkh^ Eaft and by South, and Eaft South-Eail. The Sea burned at L& of the Ship at the beginning of the nisht but th^Mn^. Ir , appeared nothing but'froth.' In the ZLg ^e d^^^^^^^^^^ Steeple. It is tlie cuftom upon all this coaft to f nd Tut PvloT-£^^^^
brhrh ' 'u ""''l f ^^''^'' " ^''^ ^"^' ^^"^^^ them wkhfets to bring them through the fands, and no Ship ,s to refufe one H^Sn^
^'^•^^irS:^:^:::"^;!^''''^^ ^'^^ -':;:^:nd-th"n^; f
Which an.n:-:;th^^--^s^v^^^
A Journey from Noru ich to Colcn.
tluH Dinant, Namur, LiC'C, ALieJlricht, Rurcmond, rcnio, and many confideiable Places, dotli here tall into the Ocean, wc had a very plea- fant paflage up the River,laylingby many neat Villages, as Maeje-fluys, Scledam.'^Deifshaverj, and handler, c rowcs ol Trees upon the lhoic% and arrived at Rotterdam about fix at night. This t. one ot the three chief pafTages by Sea into Holland, the other being by Fliijhvig and the lexel^ The nearell cut out o{ Englaid into fiolunJ \s troni La:- fhfe Point to Gra'vefa^idt, which is 18 Leagues, and the deepeft part of the >:ea is about x8 Fathoms. There lay tu 0 o\ the greateft Ships in Holland at that time near Rctterdam, the Crar.i: and the Wajfenaer ; this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral r^pdam was blown up, fighting againft his Royal Highnefs the Duke of 7.r.(^ how King of Great Britain, France and IrelarJ, &c. who thus early cxpofed his life to thefe extrcam hazards for the ialcty of Er?gLind and his other King- doms. The Heads or Keyes between uhich ue entrcd the Town by water are handlbme, and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers ftreets without difficulty, (their Channels being deep and large) the houfes are well built, and the Town populous, they ha\ c an Exchange or place tor Merchants to meet at, the ftreets are fo clean that the Women go about in white Slippers, they being paved with Bricks laid edgewife. The Landthujje hath a fair h'ont. In tlie great Church the Organs, the Tower and the Monument of De wit ; upon the Bridge the Statue of Erafmus, as alfo the houfe where he was born, and the Pleafare boats of the States are worth the feeing. It being then the time of their Kermh or Fair, there were Playes aded and many rarities Ihewn, as Lions, Leopards, &c and a great noife was i^ade about a tail Woman to be lliewn of k^^n foot high ; but the Boor of Leckerktrk, not far from this Town, was higher. Earjom and Evans, Porters to King Charles the firft, did alfo exceed her, Tlie Injh Youth who hath not yet done growing by divers years, fliown in ma- ny places, is already Seven Foot and feven Inches laigh, but I have fel- dom heard of any that was taller than Martin V/ierjki a Polander,who at the age of forty two years was prefented to the Emperor Maximi- lian the lecond, as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high, whofe Pidurc, as big as the life, I faw^, near to the Franajcans Convent
at Vienna in Aujlria. ^ , t r^ i
From Rotterdam \ pafled by Oirrjcbee to Delft, by the Powder- houfe, wiiich is a handfome one, built now at fome diftancc from the Town to prevent the like accident which befel when the former took fire and blew up part of the Town, The Piazza or market-place is a very fair one, having the frons of the Town houfe at one end of it, and the high Steeple of the new Chujrch at the other. In the old Church, yan-lromps Tomb is very well carved upon the fide of the Wall, him- felf lying upon a Canon encompaffed with Arms and trophies. In the middle Ifle of the new Church there is a nobic monument, the Toiub of William of Nafaw Prince of Orange, together with lus Wife and Son, Prince Maurice; his Statua is in armour with his Dog at his Feet, and four Obelisks arc fupported by ten Marble pillars. In a houleof this Town there were Ihewn me in a Wall the marks of the bullets ibot at Prince William, who was thereby murthered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and Ipacious I fawa handlome Tomb for Su Charles Morgans Lady, and the Monument oi Peter He'in the Admiral, who took the Spamjh Silver-fleet. The
A Journey from Norwich to Colcn.
The Plague, Haga Comitis^ the ancient place of Rcfidcnce of the ^'^i^'*^- Counts of Holland, and now oi the States general ; is about an h(u?rs going dillant from Delft -, in wliich p;^<Iiige, at fcmediftance, we had a light of two of the Prince of Or^;;;^^V houles. This place is well bulk ; the Princes Court handlome ; The Piazza bv it full of green Trees ; many fair Houfes. The Courfc where the Coaches meet, the Pall-mall, the Wood, the Park, do much bcautifie it, and the way from hence to Schezeling, from whence his late Majclly King Charles the Second returned into England^ is very remarkable, it being a flreighi: way cut through the S.uid-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles, having on tacli hand lour or five rou s of Trees, and Scheveling Steeple ar the end of it.
The Hague ^x\l\ Madrid in 6'/t?/>' arc accounted the grcatefl Villa- ges, or open unwallcd places, in Europe, and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Mafters of the grcatell Village, than of a place which, if it were walled, would come ihort of many Cities 5 but this may prove a dangerous refolution, for formerly upon this ad- vantage, Martin van RoJ/er/j, Captain to the Duke of Gueldres, lacked the Hague ; and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Vtrecht and IVordcn-i if they had forced a pallage into that part ot Hdland,
Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Plague^ at pre- i-^^-i^n-. lent one of the neateft Towns in Europe ; Well built, hath divers large Streets, beautified with rows of Trees, and the water palFing through the middle of them, and alfo well fortified after tlie modern way ; I took notice of that Antiquity called Heng^JtC^^l^, or the Berg, faid to be built by Plengiji the Saxon, and went up to the top thereof : Up- on the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a Well, out of which, they told us, tiiey took a Filh alive when the Town v/as almoft famiihed ciuring the SiCge, v^'hich was iliewed to the Enemy over the Wall, endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was, and to dilhearten the befiegers. There are now handfome fiairs from th.e top to t!)e bottom, and a good houfe built by it, where they have their publick lales and entertainments. But a nobler Antiq ity lies under the Sea, than any above ground; not far from hence near Catwyck is a fquare fortrefs called Arx Britan- nica, built by Cal/gula ; in the declining of the Romiin Empire ruined in part by the Normans, and afterwards neglected, and overwhelmed by the Sea. But in lome years, and great retire of the Sea, the ruines have been difcovercd, and many noble Antiquities brought from it, fome having this infcription Ex.Ger. Pif. ex Germania pjjeriorl The Stadthuife hath a fair front towards the Street. In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons, Two legs of an Ele- phant. The Skeham of a young Whale^ of a Horfe, Deer, Cow, Cat^ Fox, and many other Animals ; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, fome bodies preferved with their Mufoles, and one intire, the fieih. skin and all parts delended from corruption. I law alfo here what Mon* fieur^^ /^V/j pretended towards the prefervation of Bodies, but more accurately al'tervvards at E>r. Ruijch his houfe at Amfterdam. The Phy- fick-garden, although but imall, is well filled with Plants, where are alfo many other both natural, and artificial Curiofities to be feen, and
many forts oiOptick-glajJes, Near the garden are the Schools built of
Brick
%-
i
I.
>>::.4.t)*d
A Journey from Norwich to Colcn.
Brick with the Offiana Ehevtriam on the top. In the Churches I faw Tnm^T?^"'.'?^?'"^ famous men, in the French Church is the JomboiJofephScahger ■With:ihrgt]nkv[^tion upon it, and thefe kw words which he himfelf defired might be placed there.
Jofephus Jufius Scaliqer
Jul. Caf. Fil.
Hk expeiio RefurreHhr.em.
As alfo the Tomb oiCarolus Clufius the great Herbarift.
Omnia t^atur^ qui nmnera peclore clufit Clufius^ kerbifero daudttur hoc tumulo.
And with this following ;
Non potuit plures heic quterere Clufitu hcrhas : Ergo novas camfts quierit in Elyjtls.
Clufius viewy all the Plants that this Earth yields And now is fimpling in the Elyfian Fields.
There is a Pidure in the Chamber for the Burgermaflers repre- renting the day of Judgment, drawn by Lucas%a. l^l^t
vcn for It as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. Tli Tab e alfo upon winch 7./.. of Leyde. wrought whilfl he was a Ta>' lor, IS a Cunofuy, becaufe he proved aftcruards ib confiderable a d[ ilurber of C.r;..._^, and came to be King of the A.ab.pt^/h. '
This City endured a hard fiege by the Spam/h forces, and they were
[nl^'hf T'^'^^ 'T?^^7' ^""''^'^y ^^''^ themfelv^sbyS^^^^^^ Sit lof """7^^ '"^ ? ^"'"^"S '^'' ^^"^^^^^ '^ "^^k^ away w^l, fc^ption ' ' '''''' '"^"'^ " memonal-Medal with this In-
^^2/^/ Senacherib a Jerufalem, fie Hifpanl a Leyda nodu f.gerunt.
From Uyden I came to Haerlem, a neat City, pleafantJy fcated ^nH ^vingaGrove i, l^l^^^ thVlaS^^
Holland, v^ith^y;c^ high Lanthorn upon it. Within are S cri^^^^^^^^ Monuments, mofl of which are tranfcnbed a^d ft dou^'
^\?1K \^^^^^ jf'r^''/'^ ^^//W.r.^. In the Prince's houHre aU the Earls of ^.^^;;J Painted upon the wail, and in the G rdfn n the Summer-houfe, the Pidure of Laur.nt.us hojierus, w£ i. td o havefirftinvented theart ofPnnti^^ ,n this Town ; but Xs attd
vXt %^1r '' ^f T^^^^' ^ ^^---- On the other fide there" a Picaure of a Ship with Saws, in memory of the manner hovv SL,! ^^Egypt was formerly taken by thofe of this Town, who, I Siev T port, accompanied Freder^ck Bariarofa in an expedition agSth; W..5,and when the men oi Pelufium or DaJata had cSed un their Port, by this invention of faftmng ftrong Saws to the keS
Ships,
A Journey fmm Norwich to Colcn.
Sliips, they cut the chains in fundcr, and fo took the Town. In the rooms arc very good Paintings by Ihmskerk^ and Goltzim^ as hisFro- metheus and other Pccces ; but Cornelius van flaerlem moft delighted me, in his peeces of Herods killing the Innocent Children ; his feaft of the Gods, in which /Wc^;ff /f?/?^' is efteemcd at a great rate; and ano- ther Pid:ure of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation, not inferiour to the reft, among many Epitaphs in the great Church,tliere is this Df^tchow^ for a Man and his Wife. •
Laet lopen die lopen lufle
Onje tin h ver lopen ivy leggen hier in rufle
Let them run, that run will Our time's run out, and we lye flill.
The old Mens houfc, or an Hofpiral for fixty aged perfons, is large and handlbme ; having a good Qiiadrangle and a Garden in it. The Hofpital alf:) for the fick is very cleanly kept.
Here I firfl: faw the manner of puniihing Malcfaiitors by whipping them with rods, which is more fevcre than I imagined; they lead them to a Poft upon a Scaffold, their hands tyed and by a Pully drawn up as high as can be extended, and then an Iron fallned about their wall to keep ti)em fteady ; in wliich (Iretched-out pofture they receive Ibme- tinrcs fifty or fixty ftripes or more, according to the merit of their of- fence.
Not far from this place there is a great Water, rr noted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty Miles in length, which is frozen over in hard Winters, and men fwiftly travel over it by Hiding or in fleds. When Elaerlem was befiegcd there was a Naval fight upon it ; The ^Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Veflels, and the Spaniards rot many fewer. The Town was afterwards taken by Compofition, but fuch Cruelty was ufcd by tho Spaniards that they have not \ et
forgot it. ^ Amfl,rdnm.
irom /-/a erlern I went to AmHerdanty a City at prefent for Riches, Trade, Shipping, fair Streets, and pleafant habitations, fcarce yielding to any other of the World. It is Icated upon the River 7>, and hath its name, as 'tis reported, from a Caftle appertaining long fince to the Lords of Ar/iHel^ to whom this place alfo belonged : At the begin- ning, the feat of a lew Filhermen ; but afterwards increafing, it re- ceived many Priviledges from the Counts of Holland^ and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters. In the year 1470.it was walled about with a Brick-wall, to defend it againft the Citizens of TJtrecht^ they having been in great danger to have fallen in- to their hands, it' thofe of TJtrecht had purfued their Vidlories. In few Months after alfo, the whole Town was almoll: reduced to Afhesby fire, but by the increale of their Trafiick they eafily overcame their lodes, waded througli all difficulties, and rendred good Services to their Counts, and received the honour afterwards from Maximilian the Emperor to have the Imperial Crown over their Armes, which are t\\xtt<:roi]es on a Pale.
About tlie year I5^5•. Gelen, (tnt from the new King o^ Mun fiery paflid through Fnefland and came to this City ; where having made a
Party,
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A Journey from Norwich to Colc
cn.
Partv, and communicated his def.gnjie refolved ^^WmwSlv;;^^ by n.ght, at the time of the founding of the I3eli • to whirh m? .hey were already entred the Market flace, had ' upo" e Town' houfe: and cut m p.eces thofe who refilled them. Wl en by " e^r providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away thJS flrates had notice of it, and caufed all the Streets in.l aL'h, i ^^ to the Market place to be Hopped up w uh S-i' 1 an ^H^ T' T^ whereby they were l.ndred u^^hdr^defi^^ o'^J^^^^^ , ^X'^b^' night and the next morning their number being d.Wred to be in confiderable, ^ upon, driven into the ^.;;i,:t ^na""
a n?w W.ll"" ?f ^'^^J' ""'^^V'^ ^''^'^^^''^ ^"d encompaifed with a new Wall and fortified aher the modern way. The new Streets are large and uniform: and the whole Town bcinp i n . I.TiVf n
Ivor';';?;";/ ''Y' '\''''r-'' ^" thTconrSb e 6t Ss^'^S
part of the WalJ anf Ramp n and H^pc/Ltd"-^^ '° ?^' Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr tree. aT.^a ^^"^ '^.^°'^
larly into the E^rth fo t^ck 4ethS^ Sot!; g ^^e^S in between them: And by this means thpv hniN „""',>"" ^^ forced and lay Foundations fti Jg enough to tp^^'he^Sefi^Bu^y'"' whatloever, in places uhere no fohd bottom fs to be fo^und R^ th ^' mull needs be at a great expence and labour efore they can lav the firll Stone .• And the number of Trees required to each Fn.m/r^ confiderable ; fince for the Foundation of one Tower or sStnl T" '' over againft the Church of St. Ka'henne, Urjdlfarnu''^' wrote £.. DeUces de la HolLnde, reckons' t^at there u"s ± i^l into the ground a /Vr<?// as he nll« ,> ^rc- \ r , . rammed .nd ,l,;r| four great i^J: l^b^ul^i^™^ ^ttfS'Zt' ing their Foundations, I faw them cmDloveH in I, '. ^^^^^' cularly at the £^^y^W..-/.V.an7at a pLS vVere /"^ "''^^ was then defigned to be built. So ^v^::^^^^^ ^. J. could lee all u.ukr tk. Cny, /.. ..,/./ I:ardlj iSdalrlatfr
Countries. A Pile of Freeftonfof n t ndred Id' e^^^^^^ '".^'"''^ being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of S";"/""'' Rorne and eighty one paces deep, or on the fides Tl?e r h T ' '' It, the Pidures and Statues, are worthy to be £n ^'^^>'.^^"]t)ers m firll Room on the nght hand, orfX-l^JX^^^f^^^ The receive their Sentence, is adorned with lar^e Sm f I Malefactors their heads in mournful poftures^IfconcfL,?^ '"^'"^ '^"^^
vvas then pronounced. ?^he Floors are of Sb tlSl " ^'^^ ly gilt and painted. Upon the top of all ilJn ' , °*' ^'"^ '''''^^'
holding a c/obe upon his' Shoulll^ad '^^^^^^^^^^^^ Diameter, which is as large perhans as anv R.ii '^ '/-i t \ ^^" ^"""^ employed to this ornamenfal ':t%^.:7,^\r ^}^^, :^'' having been mk. I judge to be lefs; as fciffthat at /w.^^^^^^^ ^"'•^v/^ Ornament to the Tower of their ^i./y«. is th ee rIu/ above another, and an half Moon over them but h^v are tr I T at Jeaft fuch as I haye fccn : and by relatio^ to^%T.-^s. tk
largefl
A Journey from HoTwidi to Colcn.
largeft of the three noble gilded Balls at Morocco are infcriour to this Bur I will fay nothing more of this great building, die StaMun, fince there is a peculiar delcnption ot it in Folio, wkh Cuts and Figures of the moft remarkable Curiofities in it. The Excbaw^e is lair and larize and above it arc Shops : it is very well frequented, and he that conies after twelve paycth fix ilivers.
Divers of their Churches are fair ; In the new Churcli, the partition with Balhfters of Brafs, and the carved Pulpit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of l^an Hulje and Heemderk are remarkable Heemskerk did his Country gj-eat Services in their firft attempts upoa /W/*^ : for the King ot Spam, liaving confifcated fome of the IlMan^ ders Ships, wlio traded to his Dominions, which were then the Staple for the hdia Trade, It was reiolved by the perrailfion of Prince Mau^^ nee and the States, to fct out a Fleet of eight Ships tor the /W/^v - four of which were to pais by the way of the AtUntick Ocean,and the Caw o{ Good-hope I And the other four were to fearch a paffige towards t!ie Kingdoms q\^ Cathay and Chi^.a by the North-ealt, whereby the pall^ise alfo into thoe parts might be expedcd much Ihoiter than that which was known to the Spaniards,
To this intent thele tour laft veilels failed out of the Texel Tune c. 1^94. and returned in 6'<f/'/f>w/'fr, not being able to proceed byreafon of the Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Bartnlon there were two other Expeditions alcerwards to Nova Zembla ; in the laft of which thev wintered there, and Barenfon loft his life. ' //eems- kerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habita- tion, where none but Bears and Foxes could w ell endure the Winter where he had been twice, and afterwards made two rich Vovages into I^tdia. Upon whoie happy returns the Holland Eajl India Company was firft eftabliihed, and a prohibiten m de for any other of tliat Coun- try to trade thither tor the fpace of One and twenty vear-:.
But to proceed to other publick Buildings in tliis'Ciry. The Tuch- thuis or Rajpelhuis, or Houlc of Corred:ion tor debauched youir^ men fuch as are incorrigible and dilobcdient to i^arenrsor Laws/hathlit t::c entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Emblem, with this Infcription, Virtut'is eji domare ijuic cuntli pavent. This Was tonnerly a Monaftery belonging to the Nuns of the Order ot^St. Clare, and con- verted to this ufe 1595-. They who are put in, are forced to'work and gain their Bread with hard labour. I law thofe who rafped Brazil having a certain task let them every day, work fo hard, that beiiig naked and in a fweat, and the duft of the Brazil wo d flying upon tiicm, they were all over painted of a beautiful red colour. Winch odd fight made me call to mind the Fancy of my Lady Marchionefsof iVwr^y//^, of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny co- lour, and the King of Purple.
They told us that fome that were committed to their cliarge, and not to be brought to work by blows, they placed in a large Ciftcrn, and let the water in upon them, placing only a Pump by them lor their relief, whereby they are forced to labour, for their lives, and to fr^e themfelvcsfrom drowning. One we faw put into a narrow Dungeon^ and kept from meat. Some are put into this Houle tor a longer time, fome for a Ihortcr. It liath been a punifhm.ent tor luch as hav^ drawn their Daggers, or offered to Ibb any one. And iome Citizens, though
O able
1 ' ,
A Joiir7iey from NoiwicU to Colcn.
able and rich enough, contrive it fo that when their Sons are extrava- gant and mafterlefs, the Officers feize upon them, and carry them into this Houfe, where they are not forced to any hard labour, tut kept in till they fee fufficient figns of amending their life.
This way of Corredtion may feem fevcre to many, yet is not com- parable to that which is faid to have been formerly ufed in Germcwy. Particularly ztColen^ in the iVhite Tower.zt the North end of the Town, near the Rh/^e ; where it is reported, that luch Youths, who were not otherwife to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous manner ihutup in the IV/j/te Tmer. The height and thicknels of the Halls fecured them ti"om efcaping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf ot bread, the lafl remedy againif ftar- ving,which while their bold necefHty forced them to reach at, they exe- cuted their laft fentcnce upon themfclves, and mifcrably brake their own necks.
Somewhat like the Rafpdkuis is the Sp'mhu'is, or Houfc of Corrcdfi- on, for the young women, who live loolely, are taken in the night, or can give no account of their living. They arc put in tor a certain time, according as their fault m.crics, and are bound to make lace, few, or employ their time perpetually in lome honclf labour.
Thofe of the better fort are permitted to have Chambers apart. In one large Room I iaw about an hundred of rhem, and fome very well drefled and fine, which was an unexpected light tome^and would furc be more Ibrange to behold in France and Eftglai^d,
The Weejhuis^ or Hofpital for Children, where there arc Six hun- dred Orphans carefully looked after, and well educated.
The Dolhuh^ or a Houle for fuch as are Delirious, Maniacal, or Me- lancholical of both Sexes.
The Gajihuzs^ or Hofpital for the Sick, being large, and hath a great Revenue.
The Mdnnenhuis^ or Hofpital for old Men, and fuch as are no longer able to labour towards their own fupport.
Befides all which, there are great Sums of money collcded for the poor, fo that there is not a Beggar to be feen in the Streets, and upon all aflignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern, or elfewhere, and upon many other occafioas, whofoevcr fails to come at the exad: time, forteits more or lelsto the ufe of the Poor.
The £t7//-/W/j-/^c'«/o- are remarkable, and the great Stores of their Cornmodities, Cinnamon^ Creen-^inger^Camph/re^ Fepper^ Calecuts^ hidi- CO, (Sc. The Ships are of a great burden : their Houfe v\as then en- larging, although it was great before ; and a pertedt Town for all Trades within it felf.
The Admiraltejt^ or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up, is encompalted with w ater ; n- ar to it there lay- then 71 Men of War. In the Houfe we favv their Cables, Grapling- irons, bullies Oars, Charges for Powder, Lanthorns ior Ships, <£c. At the entrance of the Gate hangs up a Came which fcems to have x man in it, dryed up, fo as to be prelerved from corruption, and a Paddle in his hand : encloied up to the waft in the Came^ in luch Ibrt, as the Filli-skins, which were the cover to it, being fo fewed together that no water could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greaceft Storms without danger. The top ofthis Houfe, as cf divers others alio in this
Cit}-,
A Journey fYom^Q\i\Y\Q\\ to Colcn.
City, is a Rcicrv?.tory tor Rain- water, which they have the more need of, becaufe they have little good water hereabouts.
The faircll Streets in the Tov\n are I/^irlcm-Jireet^ the Cimel, Prm- c?s Graft. A'aijers Graft, and the New Buildings in the H]and\m\-an'v G'tte>ihrg, And if they continue to build with Frtelione, thev \\\\\ ilill lurpais rhclc, u hich, Ml allure \ ou, arc in no linall mealuiv^'Lc^U' tr:ul.
I (Inv a Globe to be fold, made bv r'inglawes, letw cen fix and fcven foor Diameter, valued at Sixteen thc)u(and Guldens: The Meridian a- lonc, bcmg of brafs, coif a thouland Guldens. Tlic G'ole is made ct Copper- plates excellently well painted,with all the new Dilcoveries in it, as that ol" Anthony Van Dimom\jxx\iS^ found out i6_.}x. in 42 deforces ot Southern L:uitude,and 1700! Longitude, thole towards the North-weft ot Jap^n, and thole jMaces both about Nova ZemlU , and alfo in the Tartarian Sea beyond the Streiglits of t'ny.r^ats, New- Holland, irc/l- Fri-fland, Cape d' H) ver. CS'c. but I have fince met with a Book,whic!i doth fomewliat contradidt this ; entitulcd A Voy.ig^ mto the Northern Countries hy Mvnfieur Martiniere, wlio uent in one of the three Sliipv belonging to the Northern Company o{ Cvpenh.-.g-n. in the rear kTc*' and by that means had occalion toconvcrle witli the Nonve'frians^ llhn- ders, 'Laplanders, Kihips, Boranduns, Siheri ns, 'Zcn4 1 / an s ^ d,nd Samo- jedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tingorjes.'m his 46 Chap- terhc exprelles himlelf after this manner. There luving fallen into my hands leveral Geographical Cliarts of fundrv eminent and much celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to fee how they are miflaken in x\\Q\ioi\i\onoiZeniI;la, which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is; they divide it likewile bv the Sea from Green- land-, and place it tar ddlant il-om it, w hen as indeed thofe two Coun- tries are Contiguous, the Cwalls of Greenland butting upon the Coalls of Zemlla, fo as did not the great quantit} of Snow, and the violence ot the cold render thofe Borders uninhabitable, the pailage would be very cane by Land horn ih-eenland tQ Zembla and from ZemLli paifino- the /'^/(?/--wc'//tTMountains to enter into Sanwiedia, h*om thence into Tartary or Ahjcovy^ as one plealed : I was am.azed likewife to fee they had defcribed the Streight called l'cygatM)t above ten French Leac^ucs in length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Lea^nies which is fiX times as much Again, they would pcrfwade us^thac through that Screiglit our Ihips might pals into the great Tartarian Ocean, which is a milfake. And although thev indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince Maunce oi Naijaw^o. Dutch Vellel palled that way into that Ocean, yet it is a maniteif error, that Streight being bounded, as I laid bek^rc, by the Fater-nolier Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow, which never dillolvcs. And of this I can give a polltive teftimony, ha- ving been my klf in that Streight under ttiole Mountains m the 'Dog- days, v\ hich is the hottelf time ot the vear.
From thiC Steeple of the old Church of Amjterd.m, I had a good Profpedrof the Town, and the great number of Ships King upon one iideof It, hke a Wood; and all the Towns about it. The Roofs of the Houfes being !harp,it is a mod uneven Town to be looked upon down- vvard.as it is a handlbine one to be looked on ui>ward;and is not lb diver- tiling or pleafing to cl;e li^ht, as ibme Towns m France and Italy ^ which * Ox hav
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100
A Joimiey from Noi'Wich to Colcn.
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have flatter Roofs, or e!le are Covered with a fine black Slat or Ardoife. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, a Trumpet is lounded at Midnight, and in other parts of tlic City at lix a Clock night and morning. At elcv en a Clock, the time ot" going on to the Exchar><rs, there is good Mu/ick at the Stadthuis, given by the Earl ox Leicejur. They make good Harmony alfo every hour in piaving upon their Chimes and Bells in moil Steeples, ^nd there is a Mulick-houle or Entertaining-houfe, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears mofl forts ot Mufick, fees many good Water- works, and divers motions by Clock-work, Pidures, and other Divertifements.
During my flay at Amflerdam, I had the opportunity of ieemg di- vers Learned Men, and Perfons of Note Dr. Ruilh Ihtwed us m.any Curiofities in Anatomy, as the Skeletons of young Children, and Fistuss of all Ages, neatly fet together, and very white ; the Lymphjtick vef- fels lo preferved, as to lee the vahes in them. A Liver excarnated lhov\i' g the Minute veflels, all fliining and clear. Tne Mufclcs of Chil- dren dilfedied and kept from corruption : entire Bcdies preferved ; the face of one was very remarkable, without the leaf! fpot or chan'^e of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expected immediately after death : he had then kept it two \ears, and hoped it would fo continue. Hx. Swammerclam Ihewed us divers of his Ex- periments which he hath fet down in his Treatifc De Befpiratione • and a very fair Colledion of Infedrs brought from feveral Countries ,• a S^^gg'fiy of a very great bignefs; an I»Man ScoiopeTidna, or toriy-foot- a fly called Ephemeron, and many other Curiofities, Old Claivher the Ch} mifl lliev\ ed us his Laboratory : And we received much civility from Blifius the Phyfick Profefrour who hath wrote a Comment upon Vefltngius,
The Jews live more handfomly and fplendidly here, than in any other place: Their chief Synagogue is large, adorned with Lamps of Brals and Silver. U e happened to be there at the Feaft of their New- 2iear ; lo that there blowing of Horns, Ihouting and finging was not omitted : Some of them underftand divers Languages. I faw one Mofes di Pm, a Learned young Man, and Orol^io, a Phyfician of Note And I was forry to fee divers here to profefs themfelves publickly Jews* who had lived at Icaft reputed Chriftians, ior a long time in other places : One who had been a Franajcan Fnar thirty years ; and ano- ther who had been Proldfour fome years at Thvlouze, and before that Phyfician to the King ot Spatn. Juda Leo, a ]ii\v, hath taken great pains m making a Model ot the Temple oi Soiomo?,, of SolomoKS Houfe the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Ifraelites encamping, and other Curiofities. I was prefent at the Circumcifion of a Child • which IS performed by thrufting a Probe in between the Qlans and F/^puti. um, and feparating it, or dilating the Pro; put mm, fo as the inward Skin may be drawn forward as well as the outward ,• then by applying an Inflrunient joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a ScdJor, the Skin is held fait beyond the Glans, and with a broad Incifion-knite, or Cir- cumcifion-knife, the Foreskin is cut ofTcloIe to the Inftrument ■ and what remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood ftopped with Powders, and a Plaifter applyed ; the Relations and Acquain- tance fingmg all the while, whereby the cries of the Intknt are lels heard.
Leaving
■,-•■ X'- X.. * ..'.^r^.
A Journey from Norwich to Cokn.
Leaving Ainjicrdam, f palTed by a peculiar Burial-place of the \z\v^ who are not permitted to interr their dead within the Wails, by Overs- kerk, Bamhurg, and in fix or feven hours arrived at Vtretcht in a Boat drawn with Horfes through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the v ay ot Travelling in Holland, Vtretcht, and divers other Provinces of tlie Low-Comitries.
Vtrecbt is an ancient, large, handfome Citv, and chief of the Pro- Vnj,: vince ot the fame name, called lormerly Antomna, and afterwards Vl- traj::dum. Long iamous tor its Epittopal See founded by Dazohen King ot France, who endowed it richly with Lands and Polil^trions • WiUebald, or Wdkbrtde, an Engliihman, was their firfl Bilhop wlio converted thele Countries unto Qii-iftianity ; and the followina Bi- Ihops grew to powerful, that they were able to bring manv thoufand men into the field, and to wage great Wars againft the Counts of //<;/- land : Tlieir SuccclFion alio continued for above Nine hundred vear^^ It IS now an Univerfity, founded bv the States in the Year 1639 I fhall not trouble }ou with the Names of the Profelfors ; ti:e Learned Mr Ray, whom I hiid the honour to meet in divers places abroad having already cauled to be printed the Ser/es Lechomm of this and rnany o- ther Univerfities in the LoK-Countries, Germany, zvA Italy, in his Oh- jervatiorrs Topographical, Moral, Fhjfiolngkal, let forth 167;. The great Church hath a very high Towe'r, or three Steeples one above ano- ther : Irom the highelt ot which I had not only a good fight of the Town It lelf, which lay unier mine E\-e like a Platform, but of many others allc ; Vtretcht being in a plain flat Country, and fo well feated, and encompalled with lo populous a Country, tliat in a davs Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Ci- ties. The Englilh Church here is an ancient 'Building ; the Pillar in the middle ot it, whole Foundation could not be laid but upon Bulls- hides, is much taken notice of: It was built 1099. and hath the Picture of a Bull upon it with this Inlcriprion ;
Acc'ipe Pojleritas quod per tuaCccnLi narres, Tanrinis cutthm fundo Jdidata '^cd:'.mna ejl.
There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which contains divers old Books and Manufcripts. A large Bil L- in fix Volumes painted and gilded after a very ancient manner : Two Idols, taken (in time of War } long fince in Germany, and given to this placj by the Emperor Henry the fourth, are worth the feeing, not lb much for their nettnefs, as their Antiquity and odd ihape: As alio a Horn made out of a Tooth, faid to be given at the fame time. There are alfo three Vnicorns Horns, little differing in length ; the longeft being five foot and an half: I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp'd with Silver, and made hollow to ferve for a Cup. Thefe were of the Sea- Vntcorn, or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of fome Sea-Animal much like it, taken in the Northern Sea ; of which I have feen manv both in Publick Repofitories, and in Private Hands. Two fuch as thefe, the one Ten toot long, were prefented not many years fince to the King of Denmark, being taken near to No-ja 'Zembla ; and I have lecn fome full fifteen foot long ,- fome wreathed very thick, fome noc lo much, and others almoft plain : Some largeft and thickeft at the
End
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-■='^^-"%^t^
A journey fmn Norwich to Colcn.
End near the hea/j ; others are largeft at (bme dillancc from the Head • Some very ftarp at the end or point, and others blunt. My honoured Father Sir Thomas Brown had a very iair piece of one which was for- merly among the Duke oiCurland^l Rarities, but after that he was ta- ken Prifoner by Douglas in the Wars between Sweden and Voland^ it came into the hands of my Unckic Colonel ILitcber,oi\\A\om my fa- ther had it, he had ahb a piece of this lort of Vmcvrns Horn burnt black, out ot the Emperor oi Rufflu\ Repojttone^ given him. by Dr. Ar^ tlmr Dt^e, who was Son to Dr. John Dee, md aho Phylician to the Emperor of Rufta, when his Chambers were burnuJ, in which he pre- ferved his Curiofitics, I [lave k^n a w alking Stati; a Scepter, a Scab- bard for a Sword, Boxes, and other Curiofines made out of th'is Horn but w^asrcvcrfo fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy againft loifons, contagious Dikales, cr an v other evident ef- fed:ofit, although I have known it given leveral times, and in great quantity, Mr. Charlton hath a good Omcorns Horn, Sir Jofeph WiLUam^ Jon gave one of them to the Royal Society, The Duke oitlorence hatk a fair one. The Duke of Saxony a flrange one, and befides many o- thcrs, I law eight of them together upon one Table in the Emperors trealure, and I have one at prefent tliat lor the neat wreathing and Elegant Ifiape gives place to none. But ot thde "Omcorits Horns no man fure hath lo great a Coliedion as the King o{ Denrr^ark ; and his Fathprhad fo many, that he was able to fpare a great number'of them to build a Magniriccnt Throne out o\'V icams Horns. '
I had the honour to fee divers Perfons of Note in this City ,- as D Cy- prianus ah Oefitrga, Dr. Regius, roetius, tlie onlv Member then' leit ahveot the Synod ot D^r/ and otheis; but mili^^ddic %htofthelearn- td Anna Maria Skur man, who Was then gone cut or Town and was forced to content my felf wit!) beholding her Pidlure, well drawn bv her own hand, w idi this Infchption of hers under it :
Cernitis hk picili noflros in Imagine zultus Si negat a sjormam grjtia vejlra daLit.
T1ie Painters Hall is conHderable, wherein are many good pieces to be feen ot feverai Mafters: Amongft winch there are good H'^ads hy P^an ColenznAUart; h^nd-ski^s hy Soft^kvsr ; and good Drapery eftc- cially mlome Turkilii Habits, by Fa^der Alere.
This Town IS allb beautiHed vv ith a tiir Piazza or Market-place d> vers long Streets, and a FalUma/l with five rows of Trees on each'ilde In the Church of '6t- Katherine is the Tomb of my Lord Gor.e. Thougii I had leen France and Italy, and the Noble Cities thereof which are uorthily admired by all, yet 1 was muchfurpnzed upon the' hrftHghtoi thcZJrited Provinces, eljx^cially oi Holland, and the ad- joyning places. He that hath obierved the eafie accomodation for Tra- vel tnerem both by Lmd and Water, their excellent order and reeular courfe mall things; the number of Learned Men: the abundance of Varieties in all kmd^ ;. tlie mdufiry, trugality and wealth of the Peo- pie ; their numerous good Towns • thcu: extraordinary neatnefsin their iJuiklings and Houles • their proper Laws and admmillration of Julticc; and their mcredibJe number of Shipping and Boats, will thmk It an omiiiion to reft m the light of other Couutries without a view of
this.
A Journey from Nonvich to Colen,
lo^
this. A Country of little extent, and loon travelled over, but lo re- plenilhed with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages, as not to be met with upon fo little a compafs of ground, except perhaps m china.
From TJtrecht^ in two hours, I came to Frifwkk, and pafled over the River Leek to f^ianen^ where there is little remarkable befides the Houle and Gardens of Count Bredcrode, one of the Ancient Nobility ox Hdiand, or according to comm.on eftcem, of the mod Noble Family of all ; theFamilyot the £5w,?Wj being tbrmeriy eftcemcd the Rich- ell ; the Waljenaefs tlie moll ancient, and the Brederodes the Nobleft. The Mount in this Garden lervcs tor the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bidivark are divers lir.a.l brals Guns planted. The Statua's of the twelve defars, of Arijiotle, the Pyramids and Partitions, with * the Paintings upon the wall , arc the reft of its Ornaments.
From hence 1 palfed llill bv Boat through the Land of Arkel, fome lay, derived trom Ilercule^ ; belonging formerly to the Lords of Gor- cbom and ArKeUid.uW by M/rv, daughter to the lad hordo^ Arkelandy it fell to John hzxd of Fgmond, and was attcrwirds Ibid to William^ the fixth Earl of UolLxnd, I arrived tliis night at Gorchom, a Tow a Well leated, near three Rivers, the Ling, the IVaeL znd the Maes, The Market-place is fiir ; the Stadthuh is lunk fomewhat on one fide. 1 he Governour hath a good Houle, and the Church a very high thick Steeple : the Works are of Earth : the Water-gate is handfomc, and over it in Great Letters in this inlcnption ;
Civitas in qua maxima Cives legihus parent, CS" in pace bcata^ (y hello invicia, 164Z.
The more remarkable becaufe it made good its Infcription in the year 167^. When Z.r>«/j thj Fourteenth, King oi Frame, cami^down with fo powerful an Army into the Loiv-Countnes, that in that Sum- mers Expedition ke took thirty walled Towns and Cities, this Wa- tergate being the Limit to his Conquefts this wa}' , beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing.
Leaving Gorcum^ I palled by lVorcum,or\ the other fide of the River and then by the Caflle of Loz'ejleinfi.ron^y feated and well fortified ; and therelbre hath been often made ufc of to fccure Perfons of Note. Sir George Ajcue o't\z.tQ ye^rs fuficred his Imprifonmcnt herein, and formerly Bar neve It ; upon which occafion this Caflle hath been much fpoken of, and hath given the name to that whole party who fided with him , well known at preicnt by the name of the Lovejlein. Fadion. Paiiing on turther by the Maes y I left Proye on the left hand, and IJueJden on the right, and the next day morning arrived at the Bojche.
Hertogen Bojche, Svlva Dhc'is, Eofcum Ducisy Beifledia\ Bolduc , ji^^ g^jt^ takes its name Irom a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brahant, It is a ftrong pleafant City, feated upon the River D/Ja or Deefe, which enters the AJaes, about two Leagues below it; one of the greatell Cities in Buihant ; and for its llrength, for which ns beholden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the Vnited Provinces pollefs not any one more confiderable , and is a very good Frontier jgainit all Enemies on this lidc: it is encompallcd oa
air
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A Journey from Norwich to Colcn.
all fides with Fens and Marfliy Grounds. The Aze^.es to it arc bv narrow Cauleys, made turning and winding, to be commanded in all places by one or otiier ot the fix Sconces or Forts built at fome di- Itance without the Toun for its greater Security. Befidcs which the HoHanAcrs having lome reafon to be jealous of "the Inhabitants, uhofe aflcclions miglit incline them towards tlie neighbouring Princes of whofe Religion moft of them are,they have built a Cittadel m ithin 'the Tou n, a BricI or pair of Spedacles to look more accurately into their Affairs. It IS a handfom regular Fort of five Ballions, each Curtain is 84 ordinar}- pace, long ; the Faces of each Baltion 6: ; and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a handlome Houfe of Stone lor the Gentry at , the point of each Baftion, and the middle of each Curtain, every one ot which coft Seven hundred Guldens. Here ls alfo a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, faid to be able to fling a Bullet almoil as far as Bommel. 1 he Piazza in this Town \s Triangular
This City was made an Epilcopal See, i^s9- The Cathedral is De- dicated to i^^.John. In the Quire are painted the Arms of many ot the Knights ot the GcUen tieece. And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Inlcnption vn French, which contains the Hiftorv of the firft Inili- tution, and Model ot this Order, by the moll Highland mighty Prince Fbdip the Good, Duke ot Eurguud^, Uranu znt Brahant^m the rear 1429, who then named four and twenty Knights, befides the iWd of the Omcr, to whom he gave a Chain of Gold, and a Golden Fleece- for which this Inlcnption was thought fit to be placed upin his Tomb'
B-'Ja.
Four maintenir teglife 031 eji de Dieu iMaiJhf?, fay mis Jus le nolle Ordre, Qu'cH ncmtne le Totfon.
Befides divers Statua's and Pillars. There are alfo fl^veral Monuments ot the Bifhops c\ Bojcke and others. '"cuii
This Town was taken from the King o'i Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Eftates, in the year i6x8. after a long and chirpp/nS Siege ; in which the little Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South did excellent Service. ^^uiu,
Divers of the Nuns were ftill alive in this Town, but at Vtrech thev were all dead. "^^>
From the Bofche we travelled through a plain Country, fomewfaat Sandy, to Breda upon the ^v^^x Merck- A place very confiZ-TKit pleafantly feated, and well-fortified. It hath fo^rmerly K^e^^^^^^^ works than at prelent- For they have taken away the Crown-wow"- - and lett only the Half-moons and Horn-works, and Conferves or Con' tregards about the Half moons. There is a large Ditch of Water ronml the Counterfcarp and a fmall Ravelin between each Baftion, joyned to the Rampart withm fide ot the Ditch. There is alfo a doubk Hay or Quickfet-hedge almoft quite round the Town, befides Palifado s The Parapet is very thick, and ftrengthned with a row of Elms, and fecond- ed vyith another row at three or four yards diflance, round the Town • the bodies of the yi^///.«x are lunk down or hollowed away, and filled with a thicket of EJm.. Tlie Half Moons are the like without the
Town,
A Journey from Norwich to Colen.
To wn, and after all, a brcft-work between the Town anM th. d n ■
and Caraliers upon feveral places of the Rampart ^ '^^ ^'^^'^'^ '
This Town belongs unto the Prince of Or^»^. unto whom it h.fh
defcended by the right of the houfe oi Naira..%l^^^^^^^^ T^
%m:i^:li'trlt:iT\ ^^^^^ withV:./daugEnrHtif :f
rmip tnc lait Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken bv the Spamards m the beginning of the Low Country Wars, and was afir Z hi^'P" R ^ ^^ '^' ^"'''^ ^y ^ ftratagem^erform^ by eighty Tye rT/.f "theT;' over with Turf, and Jintothe Ca'fli::' ij me year 1615. the Spaniards took it again, as by Infcriptions and SurT"' are to be feen in divers placesfas that oL the dCr of tKe
aMlrofl fpInoL<E FlglLantla ireDa eXpVgnata.
As alfo this, l^ILIppVs hlfpanl^ reX gVbernante IJaheLLa CLara EVzenTa Tn
Afterwards it was befieged and taken by Frederick Ilendrick Prince down"^'' '' '" '"^'''P''°" '' ''^' "^'^ ^"'^ °f '^^ Church fets 't
juxiliofonus Dei, Aufpuiis conf<cderan Bdpj, Ferdtnando Aulhtac. ^jmni^ Mant^cum ingenti exercitu frujha fuccurrente, a lulii 1, oh-
llT^ n^d"¥^ "PP'T"'""- f'^'d'"''*^ tienncus Frtnceps araV^ jlVs breDaMeJipVgnat jeXuOCtohrls. ^
The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments, as RcnelTe^ Tomb ; a Monument for Sir Thomas Al^Jlurykt up by the Lord Chancellor H:de; an old Tomb erected 1349. for John Lord ofl^S
on the fide of the Wall ; the Here Van Home and his three Wives - but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrzck Van Naljaw whofe Armour is fupported by four Warners upon their Knees he built the Caftle of 5r.A which is at prefent bo?h ftrong and beau!
PHnre l'''^'''''^ '^' P'^"", ^"^Z^ '^^ ^"^^"^^^ ^^"^ i"'^"^ where the Pnnce came over into the Town. The Gallery, th^ Garden, the
Walks, and Dials are worth the feeing, the Town is handfomly bi^k populous, and generally hath a great Garrifon in it. ^ '
Leaving ^r.^^ we loon came by Land to St. GertruydenBerz, t\,^Gcrtruydenbrs.
laft Town on the North of Braiant, where it joyned to thi Pro
vinceof^.//W, a fmall place, but a good TowTfbr fifSng ly^rS
upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert, made by hf
ailing of the Maes and many other Rivers into it. fh^Town i^
omhed and Garrifoned. The Church and Steeple have been Larse
and fair, and the ruines of the Latter are obfervabk,in regard that t£
Steeple was ihot down by a Stratagem of the Princ of Or... ^Wk
he Govenior and chief of the Town were upon it, to obferte a fa fe
alarm m the Prince's Camp, and fo loft themfelv'es and the Town!
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A Journey from Norwich to Colcn.
We paired from hence over a large Water which hath ovcrflow'd a great part of the Country upon one fide of it, no lefs than feventy two Pa- rillieS being drowned at once,the Village of Ramfiun only clcaping,and fo by an old Tower called the houleof iW/^ri'fy,to the Maiden Town of Dort^ or Dordrecht,
Dordracum^ fo called by fome from Duri or Dureti fonm^ at prefenr Vort^ being feated in the Waves of thole great Lakes made by the Maes and WW/, is not unaptly from its fituation compared to a Swans neft, it is reckoned the firil and chief Town of South Holland^ in refped: of its antiquity, as having fcrvcd to fecure Odocerm\{\^ retreat almoll eight hundred years fince, and alfo in refped of its Privileges in ha- ving the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rhcnilh wine and Englilh Cloth.
In this Town arc many fair houfes and pleafant Gardens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 512 fteps high; the top thereof being made of four large Dyalls. There is alio an Exchange or Place tor Merchants to meet The E^gl/Jh have two Churches, and the Frem'h one. The Key or Head to the water fide is handlomc, and the Coun- try about very pleafant ; we faw the Chamber wherein the Synod oi D^r/ was aflcmblcd i6ii. a large fair room; and cook a collation in the fame houfe, in a high turret overlooking the Town and Country : Our feats Moving round about the Table continually ,• fo -Ols the diver- llty of the profped: made it more delightful. < The great Vellels round- bellied, which trade between Coin and this City fcemed flrange ; as alio the long Luyck or Liege-hozis ; and the number of People that conti- nually hve in them. At my going away from hence I embarked in a Vellel bound for the Illand odPa/d'eren, fayling by moft of the Illands of Zealand and in fight of divers good Towns, as l^fW/emJhdt, Tirick- zee^Tergoes ; obferving in fome places w here th.e Sea Iiad overflowed the Land; and in others where the Induftry of the Inhabitants ftill ktep it out, by keeping up their banks, and thatching the Shoars of the Sea. We Landed at Ter-Fere^ where there is a good Haven and Harbour tor Ships, the Walls were built in the > ear 1 3 ^ 7,touards the Sea are round towers The Piaz:za is long. The Scotch have had a Fadory here for above two hundred years, and the AA/n/«//j of this Place did formerly make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Governed, The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg repreienting the Eccleliaftical ju- rifdidion, and the Towns oi Middleburg, Zinckze, Ter-rere.Fhqhi, tolen^ Martins-dike ^ Romerjwal and Tergoes ^ fupplying the Third^: over againft this place where a Town had formerly lunk into the Sq.\, the Steeple only remains to befeen. YromhtinQQto Middlelurgthl way is Paved with Brick i as it is alio firom Town to Town in moffpla- Ctsoi Holland^
Midd^ehtkrg is the chief Town in the iHand IValachria, feated almoll: in the middle of it, being well built, large rich, and Populous, it is tiie fourth Port for the Eaji-lndia trade : hath a large, broad Water with- in the Town, and a ftreight cut through tiie Land to carry VelTels out to Sea, the whole is very well Fortified, the Officers here arc chofen by flrangers or Foreigners, tie Churches are many and remurkable.the new Church is of an eight-lquare figure with a Cupida. the Tower ot* the old great Church very high, the Stadthuije w*ith the old ilatua's about it, the round Fiazza, and many private buildings are Confider:i-
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A Journey frc?;t Norwich to Colcn
blc, and the v\ho!e Country about it is fruitful ,- either divided uno Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with Madder, Pomp/o>n,ov Grain and Fruits. The Zealanders are generally addidted to the intereft of the Pnncc cfOrj;;go% and great Lovers ofhisPerlun. [found them not a little delighted that tl;e Prince had been with them fome days before , and was made Premier Noble, or chief of tlic States of Zealand \ which was chiefly brought about, as I was informed, by Penfioner Hubert^ le Sage^ Duvelaer and Vriehergen^ formerly no great friends to the Prince, cfpccially rriebergen , who was the moft carnefl of any to bring him in, in defpitc to the /lollattders, tor General Wcrts his fake, w ho being kx. over tiie Zealand forces by thofe of AmHerdam lately atlronted Friebergens Son,who was a Colo- nel at the Head of his Regiment. I was entertained at Middlefurg very courteouHy by Mr. Hill the Minilter, v\ ho alfo fent his Kinfman with me to Fhijf.ng. FUfuiga or Vlujfing hath Stone- Walls cowards the Sea, and Mudworks towards the Landj a very good Port.a^daf^rongTown"; the waves of the Sea walhing it walls ^ it was one of the firft Towns which the Low Country men took ixovixxht Spaniards m theyearz57z, and w as made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Ra>Y.rnaki ns and the Bnel 1585-. The renowned Sir. Philip Sidney being the firll Governor of it, and lurrendercd by King James to the United ilatcs, i6i6. The Sea iboar here abouts is not only faced with rulhes, fiaggs and reeds Ibikcd down as high as the Tide ufually arifes, but it is alio ftrongly bound over with Ofiers and hurdles and great Polls driven in to break the force of the Water, and fecure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth. The Town-houfe is handfomly buik , {landing in the Tiazza, having three rows of Pillars in the Front one above another; the Lower D^r/Vi-, the fccond /(?;;/r;f, and the highelt Corinthiayt ; and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Dilcover Ihips at Sea. This is the third Port for the Ead-lndAt trade ; Amster- dam and Rotterdam being the firft and fecond : here lay many great fliips in the middle of the Town, and confiderable men of War, as the St. Patrick, and the Admiral of Zealand : ue faw them alio building of div ers ilnps, and when the Prince was here they lanched one to di- vertife him, to which he gave the name of William Frederic^^thty alio prefented him with a Golden Bottle ; that being the Arms of the Town : the Prince Landed at Armuyden^ and went from thence to Tergoes^and thence to Breda ; they reported his entertainment in Walcheren a- mountcd to fifty thoufand Guldens. The Women in this Ifland wear moll of them red Cloth and flraw-Hats; if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is laid at the Door, if a Boy, a little one if a Woman, the flraw lies on the left fide of the Door : when any woman is brought to bed, they faften a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door , and make ic up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in fuch manner, as to diflinguHh of vrhat lex the young Child is.
Returning to Middleburg by Land I obferved there was a row of Trees round the Town between tl'K moat and rampart, where ordina- rily there is only a breaft-work or a hedge, and embarked at Middle- ^<r^ again, and palled down the River by the fort Rammakins^ and fo for the i:'d'e'/^^,SayIing up that noble River till we had palled the Fort, Frederick Henricky and came to Lillo ; where we ftaved till the Vei^
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A Journey from ^otWii.\\ to Colcn.
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Antwerp:
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fel was fearchcd. Over againfl: Lillo, lies another Fortification, call^ ed Lifgens hoek ; the Fort ^e Li croix is the laft that belongs ro the Hollanders, and lies on the North fide ot the River ; the Banks are cut nigh to it, and the Country drowned for its greater Security, i he Spanilh Forts hereabouts to defend tlic Frontier^, are the thtlip^ the Pearly and the Maria.
The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by Cwfar is a gallant River, affording plenty of Fiih, and convenience for Navigation and pafla^e unto feveral noted places : It ariles in the Country of Ferrrfandois, pal- fing to Cambray^ Valencienne^ fo to Tournay or DormckfiudenarJ, Gamt^ Rupelmond and Antwerp, and purluing its courfe is afterwards divided into two llreams, whcreol the Southern is cailed the Hont ^ the other runs by Bergen ap Zome^ and aftcrVv'ard into the Sea between the Ifles of Zealand -
The next day morning w^e went on our Voyage Hill up the Scaldis or Schelde^ and arrived at Antwerp. Where I had the good fortune to fee Mr. Hart op ; one very well known in all thofe parts, and of high erteem for his perfonal ftrength and valour. A Gentleman alio lb courteous that he makes it his bufinefs to oblige llrangers ; he Ihew'd me many curiofities in this City, carrying me with him in his Coach.
The Walls oi Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick and Free- flone, having divers rows of Trees upon ;l?em, broad walks, and con- veniences for the Coaches, to make their tour upon. The Bajlions are not lb large as generally they build now^ a dayes, yet after the modern. way. The Ditch is very broad and deep, the Country about it. all Gardens. The Cittadelis a regular Fortification of five BaJlionSy where- in lies alv\ays a Garrifon of Spanijh Souldiers : upon every curtam there are two mounts or Cavaliers ; and between them below, a row of building or lodgings for the Souldiers ; the ears of the Bajlions are cut down, and Cajamates made or Cafe matte, and Palilado s fet round upon the EJplanade ; the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and Stone, nor is there any where a more regular beautiful Fortification of five Bajlions that is finilhed : it commands the City, the River and the Country : befides this Cittadel there is another Fort within the Town near the Schelde, to command the River, having eight Guns in it, called St. Laurence Fort.
The Exchange is handlbme, fupported by 36 Fillars, every one of a different carving, four llreets lead unto it, fb that Ihnding m the mid- die we fee through every one of them. The Meer or Largeft ifreet is confiderable for the water running under it, and for the meetin^^ of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the llreets ot the City, which are clean and beautiful ; at one end of it Hands a large Brals Crucifix upon a PedeAal of Marble. The Jejuites Church goes tar beyond any of that bignels that I have fecn out of// j/;/. The Front is noble, with the Statua oilgmtiiu Loyala on the top. A great part of the infide of the Roof w^as painted by Ruiens, and fome of it by k'an Dyke : there be many Excellent peices oi flowers done by Se- gersaje/ui e; the Carving and gilding of all the workii is exquifite : The Library of the College is great, and the Books dKpofed handfome- ly into four Chambers : the Founder hereof u as Oodfr/duj Houtappel whole Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth
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A Journey from Norwich to Colcn.
the (eeinif ,in ^ Chappel on the South fide of tins Church, [n the Church
of the Carmeli tes is a large Silver Statua of our Lady, and models of Ci-
ties in ftone. Onfer Lieven lyowen Kerch, or the Church of our hleffed
Lady is the greatefl in the City ; and the Steeple one of the faireft in
World, five hundred foot high : one of their feet is eleven of our inches -
fo as it is 4^9 of our it^v. In this Church there is much carving and
a great number ot Pidures highly efteemed; among which one^'piecc
is much taken notice of, drawn bv r^n'mtin at firft a Smith, who made
the neat Iron work of the Well before the Well door ; and afterward*^
to obtain his Miftrefs, he proved a famous Painter ; !iis head is kl up
m Stone at the entrance of the Church, with an infcription and this verfe;
Connulialis amcr de Mulcihre fecit Ar^eliem.
I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael pleafantlv feated upon the Schelde; where,among other curiofities, I faw a g la(s,which reprcfcnted thePid:ures of our Savionr and and the Virgin Mary, colledcd from the putcin^^ together of divers other heads : One was reprelented from a Pid:ure \vherein were thirteen faces, and another from one of twelve • over the btefTcd Virgin was this Inlcnption,-
Diva nitet zaris exprelfa Maria Figuris.
The Countefs of 5rj^j;f/s Tomb, who was drowned, and her ^2^^-- tua, as alfo the Monument o^Ortelius, are here ihewn. Marcarms Si- wo^^eus waj. then Abbot, the Monks 6]. Near unto the WharNgate is the Church ot St. Walhurgis^'m Englilh Samt,who contributed much to- wards the converfion of thcle Countries.
The Town-houfe is fair, the Houfe built for the Eafl-country Mer- chants is very ftately and large, but runs now to ruine, in this I faw, am.ong other curiofities , divers ftrange Mufical mftruments , which at prefenr are not underftood, or at ieall not made ule of: The Heffen houfe hath been allb fbrmerly confiderable. The water which they make ule of in Brewing, is brought by an Aquedudt from Her en- tall about thirty miles diftant from hence ; and is conveved into the Town by a large Channel, peculiarly walled in by it felf where it paf- fes the Ditch; in this City are many good colkdtions ofPidtures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Miniature or Liming by Gonfol; orie fine piece, which I law was peculiarly remarkable,it being the work of ^5- feveral Mafters.
^ From Antwerp, I palled to Brujfels by water changing Boits five BrujreU times, and going through divers locks, by reaiJ)n the Country is fo much higher about Brujfels, and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp. At Fontaine a league and half from Bruffels , three Rivers crofs one anuiier : one of them being carried over a bridge. The Piaz* za of BrMf-L is fair, and oblong in figure ; upon one of the longeft fides ftands the "^ own-houle, and over againll it the Kings-houfe, w here up- onaScati'.ld hanged with Velvet, Count, Egmond and Home were beheaded, the whole P/Jtcabemg hang d with Black Cloth. Upon the top of the Town-houle, Hands St. Michael, the Patron of the Citv,
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A Journey from Norwich to Colcn.
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in Brafs. Count M^rji^/s houk formerly belonging to the Prince of Oni^ge , hath a fair Court, and overlooks a ^ood part of the C itv, but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunderbolt or Stone M hich they affirm to have efTedled it, is bigger than two Mens Iicads , and hangs up upon the door at the entrance. The Jejuites Church is handfom, and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top. The Carmelites Church hath a noble Ahar, and near unto tl^e Church is the Statua of a pilfing boy, which is a continual Conduit, The Armory was well furniihed as we were informed, before the Go- vernors of the low Countries fold the Arms ; and C^fd Rodenip, the Governor, left it very bare. There remains the Armour o{ Charles the fifth, of Duke ^//fr/,of the Prince oi Parma^Emestus^ and of the Duke d'Alva^ andof tlie Duke Ailerts horfe,who being ihot faved his Maftcr, and died the fame day twelve month ; .Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, one with two Piftols ; The Armour of Cardinal hfante, and of an IndtanK\x\%\ k Pol//hmuskct which carries fix hundred paces ; CharJes the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the GoUen Fleece, and Heftrji the Fourth's Sword fent to declare war ; G-^od Bucklers for Ce- fence,and fome well wrought; efpecially one with the Battel of Fyrrbus and his Elephants ; and banners taken with Francis King of France^ at the Battel of Pa-i:ia.
Somewhat like Godfrey of Bom lions fhooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of DjW, is the ihot which iy»fjnta IjabelU made, \v hen uith an Arrow Jlie killed a Bird, in mem.ory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Arrow is fet upon the top of a Tower m the Court, which is large ; and if the New Buildings and Defign were continued,it would be very handfome Before the Court ftands five brafs Statues.The Park is pleafant , with Trees fet in order, and adorned with Grotto s. Fountains, and Water-works, which come very near the Italian i one piece Ibmewhat imitating Frajcati, in which all Muficai Inftrumcnrs are imitated, and a perpetual motion attempted : and on the Front of the Buildings Iknd the Cccfurs heads. But the Echo is moft remarka- ble; which may perfedly be dillinguilhed to tenor twelve Replies. The greateft Church is that of St. Gudula; in which is her Statua, the Devil ftriving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn The two Chappels therein are remarkable ; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the out-fide : the other towards the No: th, hath been vifited by five Kings ; in which is the Hod which bled being Itabbtd bv the Jews. In the DommicanQ}mxQ\i is the Monument of the Duke oi'cleve and his Dutchels, in Corinthian brafs- But for a New Church that of tlic Be- ^d-w^f J, or Pious Maids, is very confiderable; there being Eight hun- dred of them in this City, who have a particular place allotted to them, where they have built this milk-white Church. The Plague was much in this place at that time, three hundred Houfes being ihut,up and Gar- lands placed on the doors, in the middle of which
t was written I H S. I faw the Englifh Nunnery, and other confidera- ble Buildings. And after I had refrclhed my felf at the Filh-Tavern, u hich is worth the feeing, efpecially for two Rooms in it,furnilhcd frooi top to bottom with very good Pidures, I returned to Antwerp.
A Jour?iey from Norwich to Colcn.
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OM, 4. I travelled through an open Country, and lodged at Moiin Irufle. The Spamlb Souldicrs met us upon the Road this day, lome ot ^''"^• them well mounted and armed, and begged of us, and were well latisfi- ed with a fmall Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country ofZ./(?gf, and pailed great Heaths, and on the Sixth, m the morning ar- rived at Muejireickt.
Trajeclum ad Mofam, or Maeflre'icbt, is a flrong Town, featcd upon Muefinuhu the Maes, four Leagues below Lie<ie, The Out-works are very con- fiderable ; the Wall is old. Tow ards the South-eaft lies a Hill , which arifesgently, and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hi 1 is one ot the nobleft: Quarries of Stone in the World. To lecure the Town from the diladvantage it might recei\'e from this Hill,there wa i formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long fincc flighted ; and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-lhot of it, and the Baftion anfwering to ic is made \ ery high, to cover the Town. On the other fide of the River {lands I'Vicke, very well fortified alfo, and rather ftronger than fllaeftreicht, into which they might retire if the To^vn Ihculd be taken by Storm, it being united to Maeflreicht by a handfom Bridge over the iViaes, confiding of Nine Arches. All about Pf^c/'a- the Country is flat: there are many Inhabitants in it, and a handfom Glaf:>-houfe.
The private Houfes of Maeflreicht are generally covered wuth a black S!at, or Ardoife, otherwife not very beautifuL The Town- houfe is fair, feated in one of the Piazzas, built of white Stone; it hath N;ne large Windows in a row on each fide , and within is very well painted by Theodoras zan der Schuer , who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden, In another Fuzza is a Fountain , rows of Trees, and the great Church. This Town was befieged and taken from ' the King of Spain by the Confederate States in the year
O?^^^/- the Seventh! dined at C^-Z^/^, a fmall place, and came that nisht to Aken, Aix la Chapelle, or Aquifgrane, an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by reafon ot its hot Baths ot which I Ihall fpeak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London. Leaving ^/v;^ I travelled towards Juliers or G«- lick but it being late before we arrived, the Gates were Inut up, to as we went only under tlie Walls, leaving it on our right band. Near unto Gulick runs a lliallow fwift River, called the i?^^r. At the Mouth of it, where it falls into the Maes, is feated a confiderable Town called Roermonde, through which I pafled in the year 167%. when Sir Lionel Jenkens and Sir Jojeph Willamjon were fent Plenipoten- tiaries to Cologne, in our Journey from Antwerp to that City. We then pafled the Country oi Brabant, bv the way oiThornhaut, iVeert, Roer- monde, and the next Night palling by Erkelens, lodged^ at Cfro ot Caller, in Gidickland, where there are flUl the remains ot an old Caltle, ^^^^^^^^^^ formerly built for the Delence of tint part ot the Country. Roermon-^ ^/(? is feated upon a lifing Hill, near the River Roer, hath a CoUedge of Jefuitsinit,ahandfome Piazza, %vA an oldAbby with divers Mo- numents
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^ Journey from ]<iormch to Colcn.
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numentsvery ancient, founded bv (7A.»-7r./K',Ki ^77~77~; — ;
this Town their Exce lencSLrl A .i ^;' of C«^/^^r/W. From
Walls, charged wiSLTx^^^^^^ ""''^ 'a' ^^'^^^'^ ^^^^^
exprefs the higheft of theTr '^^^^^^ ^" '"^^ places ftriving to
JlZesf'^ ' '""'''"'^ ''^ '^'^'^'''^ ^here I arrived 0.7.i.. the
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)p/e^, Coln^ or Colonia Agrl^pina^ was anciently the Ca- pital City of the Tjhii^ a people who were at Hrfl po(- Icfled of the Countries now called Berg and Marc/: but being over-run by the German next to them' Agrippa^ Lieutenant of Ga/Iu , received them into protedion, and placed them upon this fide of the Re- man flioar of the Rhwe^ wlicre they built this place, and called it Op'tdum Vliorum^ and the Romans feating themiclves here for the defence of the Country, in Honour oi Agr'ippma^ daughter to Gernnnkus^ and wife to Claudius^ whofc Birth place it was, gave it af- terwards the Name of O^^/Ai Agrippnia. It is at prefent one of the largell, if not the greateft, of any Citv in Gcrmiwy, fecured tou ards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches, and towards the Water by a Wall ofiitone. The Rh'me renders it dehglufulupon (;ne {\^\it and divers rows of Trees enclolc the Town towards the Land. They have Ibme Out-works, as Half-mccns and Ravelins, but tlieir Lcil kcurity is in the great number of men which they are able to raile within themr felvcs. Many of the Streets are bread, ancf paved with broad Hones.
It received the Chriftian Faith very early, and Mater?i:is u as their Biihop above i -55:0 years fmce, who lubfcribedj amongfl: others, to the Con--?;! of 'rl-^s. They have a great num.ber of Churches, and well endow ed, w Inch take up a great part of the Town ; the Prdends and Canon:; Houies having in many places Vineyards, and large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of the Town, the Church of St. Kun'ihald is confiderabrc The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built, witli a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uni- form. The Jefuites Church, is well built and ftorcd with rich Cope^-, Altur-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Giurch of St. Cereon^ a Saint of great name here, martyred about Cohn in the time di Maxi- wuuna, are about a thijufand Saints heads, and on each fide o\ the Al- tar a brge Statua, Whereof one is of a Moor ; and under the Quire ano- ther Cliurch. The' Convent cf the Carmdhts is alfo confiderable,
Q, wherein
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// 'journey from Colcn to Vienna.
A Journey from Colen to Vienna.
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w licrcm tl)c I mity of Peace was held with good accommodation in it tiiough v\ ,th no lucceh, in the year 1675. In the Church of St. 7Jrluh IS her lomb. and the Tombs ofdivers of the Eleven thouland Virgins martyred by tiie Hum. Upon the Monument of St. VrfuU is this In^ Icnption •; ^ - -.•
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^cpuld'rum Santl.eVrfuU indiao CoLmLe eteteaum:
Upon many of the Tombs which are old, are CroHl-s and Lamps Ma- nv Bones and Heads o[ the Martyrs are ahb kept in this Church. The Cathedral ,s dedicated toSt. Feter, and is very large, but not finiflied The IJody of the Church hath tour rou's of Pillars within it. The Qiure IS handfomc and very high : beliind It are believed to be the Tombs of tnc three Wile men which came from the Eaft to uoriliip our Saviour or the Kings oi Ard:a, of wliom It was prophefied that they 11 ould brtng G.fts commonly called the three Kings of r./.>/: Mei chor, who ottered Cc!d, Gajp.r Frankincenfe, and Bahhafar Myrrh
^/ l!v A/ f '' '■' '''^^'f ^""'. ^""' "^''^ ^'^ ^^^"^^d to ConJlant^„o- V a if n^"^ t^'"''""' °^ C'^^J^^"^^^'^ the Great ; then to Ahlan by f^J^orJius Bdhop thereot ; and tney have now refted at Coie» for above five hundred years, being tranflated from M^uh hither bv RarMs Bdhopofr...,inthcyearii64 There are alfo divers other Monu n^ents of Biihops, and Noble Perfons in Brafs and Stone, and one in the ^ape ofa Caftle with fix Towers. The Canons of this Church re all
^rn7u V'T"^ ^^^""^ '^'' ^""^^ oiNavl.rg, who ordinarily refidj at £>«f./^j.^, about twenty En^^U/h miles bebw. this City, upon the Rh^e, hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to all the Apoftles tlev hew us a To r.b,which being opened by Thieve.intending' to^S t, the Woman buried in it .rofc up and uent home, and lived with lier Husband divers years after. In one of the Strrr r. i . -r rather one Tower upon another, which feems lo bfandent iw SJe^ a Prifon. Upon another Ruine alfo in the Streets lies -, t^,^k Y out of one Stone ; of which fort ofTombs t£e e m'T^^^^^^ •OIK other places; but the greateft number of them I ev7r i"w a^a^ -dries m Prozencc. "^^ "
■ The Senate Houfe Is Noble, having a fair Tower upon it from whence there is a good profpecft over the Citv^ irLo^.v, r' '^■ the Senate Hcufe is a Man in ^B.JfleiJvo figSng wiTa I v °"l°^ as it was related to me, uas formerly one of Ihe 0)11 vJ] n 'J' '''•''°' had a contcll with fome Clergy-men' about tht G^ [^^^^^^^^^^^ ty, on a fuddain they caufed a Lyon to be ht in „n,L
TheEle<itororArchbilhopofO/<f«hath two Places in the Citv but by agreement between him and the Town, lie is no L ft?v' here above three days together. Only this orefenf TrXwn ^
^.e c„„,i„B down o .helmpcna, Kor^ .^„5t"c6 S''it? Zl
m in Right and Honour^ and in our ancient Pinjile^es^ TJSy our VVites^ cur Children^ and eur City of Colen. Moft of the City are of the /f^- »74« Church,and the whole Town (o full of Convents, Churches,Church- men and Reliques, that it is not undefervedly ftyled the Rome of Ger- many. The Lutherans have alfo a Church within the Walls, and the Cahinijis at Mulheiw^ half a League down the dream on the other fide of the Rhine,
Overagainft Colen lies Dutz^ afmall Village, inhabited chieflv by Jews. The Veflels which come out of the Low-Countries hither arc Jong, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made tor them, intc which they may be drawn,and efcape the Injuries they would other- wife fuffer by the Ice in Winter-
Befides the rich Clergy, there arc many wealthy Citizens and Mer- chants here, and they maintain a Traffick and Correfpondence with divers Countries, efpecially by the convenience of the Rhine, They fpeak not the bell High dutch -^ but Latin and French are underrtood by many : Divers Hofts m Inns fpeak Latin^ and the Servants French ; whi:h proves a good lielp unto Travellers. It was made an Viniverfity about the year 1^88. Beildts the General Hofpitals for }oung and old perfons, there are two tor the Sick, and well accommodated. They have a Pharmacopcca CoUnienfis^ or a Dijpenfatory proper to the place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines. I was acquainted with one of the beft, Mr. Elhurg^ a knowing and obliging perfon^who was his Late Majefty King Charles the Second^s Apothecary while he refided at Colen^ and whom my honoured Friend Sir Alexander Frajer^ his Majefties chief Ph\ fician, made ule of, who lived in great reputa- tion in this Cit\'.
Two hundred years fmce jEneas Sylvius left an high expreffion con- cerning this place, Colonia qu.e de conjuge Claudii matre Neronis, A- grippina dicta est,, & trium Magorum ofjibus illujirata, nihil magnijicen- tius^ nihil ornatius, tola Europa reperias : whicli though, if ftrid:)y conftrued, will hardly be admitted by any who hath beheld Pans^ Na- pies,, Venice, &c. yet' doth it declare the noblenefs of this City, even in forrrer times.
We \tix.Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, being drawn up the Stream with Horfes, they being made faft by a very long Rope to the Maft ; we lodged in a Imall Village, having had a good profpeCt of Colen all this Evening from offthe water. Near to this Place Julius Ciefar made bis Bridge over the Rhine, The next day we came to ^(7», the Seat of the prefcnt Archbilhop and Eledtor of Colen^ Maximz- lianiis Henricus, Duke of Bavaria,, Bilhop q{ Hildijheim and i,/c^£f,and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place was for- merly called Uonna,,QX Cajira Eomnnfia,,xht wintering place, in the time of 7ac//«i, of the fixth Legion, it was not long lince very w^eli fortified by the order of the prel'ent Archbilhop, and the direction of Colonel ^//ir, a blind m^an, having Cj^^^j^ in both his eyes. The Archbifhops l^alace is very Noble, and there is a Chamber feated a good way into the Rhine, to which they pals thorosA a Gallery. This Night wc lodged at the foot of the higielb of the ieven Hills by the Rhine^ which are feen at a great dirtance ; and upon divers of them ftand old ruined Callles. On tlic i^tb we palled by a pleafant Illand with a
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A Journey from Colen to Vienna.
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Convent in k: at /fm^^f« is alio a Convent upon a Rock forrifi.^ with round Towers. In the Evening we lodRed near to a C.iirK^ ed four years before by the Elecaors of rZYL^r / u ' ""'"^
at that time to the Du'ke of I^'' 5X "'/eaHv in tS"^ ;ng we came to ^..er.aC, where the Plagifwas v y ^^^^^^^^^ time, and they kept a great many of tl!ar ikk in Boatsupon the
nnlhtZ"'^'' °/°''^ t"'"""'""' ^as one of the Ro»,aH FortrefTes Ud- on this River, fome think that C^/w^ was born and that S ^ ^
S tf ^'T^""- ^'^^^^ -^ '^h- PJ^- - 'l^ M nerd r^nr Well rrcquented, and much m^de nf^ ^r Tk^ t- ■ *** ^F^^^^g^,
with .njold Wall ,. andt Sat tfnj^ ,]''ZoLTrpdt Notwithftanding there being divers Friars in our Company feveaTot the Towns-men fent out difhes of Meat to them, which we eatln h. Field upon Trees which were laid alona near the Town Tif; V
tained by him in his Lodging.: He invited aJfo fbnie ot^" e Con^^^^^^^^^ make two iides thereof, and the hird is made hv . I ;n i ' ^^^
Town is under the Eletlor and A rhS f J^" °' S''"""* ' Ws fince, in the time of k1 zL^ij^^'te'si^rL" '''T^"''>^
wh.ci ontLpo„?4r/ae's::^l£— L^iiS T r
a very Noble Palace of .he Eledors, two laree W,nK and £ c * with five Pavil ons ftanding towards iL R k,, ,„ j r ^ . and the Front 01 B^ts over the U,., to S^^/'^lfe'rar' ™vS™^^^^^^^
OarrL ,„.o <htstw.iV:il.^cJ'rsrw^yC^„^'it 'l^hj
A Journey fro7?i Colcn t% Vienna.
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Rh:.egrave tor the King ot Sweden , and the ftrong Caftle of Phren^ Ire tt Item being put into the hands of the F^nch, the Emperours Forces
leized upon the Archbilhopotr;-...,. who then was Phlnppu. ch'L pborus, and carried him away to Vienna
In places where the Rhi.e ,-uns thraugli a low Country and a fat %l,it walhes away the Banks: to fccure m hich, in divers place' they have made great Works ot Wood, and alio to lecure VelRls from the danger of the Ice. And I remember, riding near the Banks of tl^ River £..r. in France, I oblerved them in fome places to be handlome- ly defended tor a long wav tc^gether with Frccltonc
.NJear unto Collentz, ui«n a Hill, is a Convent of Carthufiar,s Odo-
fh'/^'ft^ rr"l"''''^' ^"' '° ^^W-^ a walled Town, upoa the weflern bank, where VanTrump was at thattimc : It is a very old Town, one of the v-m.« FortrelFes againtt the (}ern,ans, called anciemlv Bodohnga ■ fome would have it called Rop.ort from Beauport Fan- haven, or Bonport, a good convenient place tor Veflels to retire into or to r;dc in. ' ^
On the xM: we dined at St. Ciucr, a pleafant Town belonging to t!ie Lar,.^tgr.fc of Hefe, who hath a Callle here. Coming on flwar we met witn an odd cuilcm : for upon the Wall fide there is fallncd a Collar of Brals at prefent, but was formerlv of Lead, and c^ven bv Cbares the Fifth ; into this moft Strangers that come put thefr Necks at which time tliey ask them, me:/jer they mil he jpmikled with wa- ter, or drtnk itrne : and it they clioole the latter, they give an enter tainnint of Wine to the Company.The Queen oi Si.edat naffincT by this place, gave a great Silver Cup out of which thcv now drinlf at this Ceremony We lodged this night at W 'efel, a Town fituatcd between a high Hil and the River, belonging to the Archbiihop of Triers Here m the Market-place they ihcw'd us the print of St. F^ulerisHoxks toot in a Free-ltone.
On the 19.'/^ ue came to Bacckarach, or ad Bacchtaras, belonains ^■'«*''^«*- to die Eledor Falatr^e • a place famous for cxceflent Wines We palled by an old Caflle feated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine being of an irregular figure, called Pfalts, where formerlv the Prince Palatines ot tl^e Rhine were born, the Pnncefles being lent hither to be ^''''" ^^■'^^'^ brought to Bed. We came this night to Dreickjhaujen ; the next day we went by a dangerous Palfagc, there being many Rocks under wa'- ter, which caufe the River to run verv rapid and unequally A little above this we came to a round Tower,' on a Rock in the Rhine called the Mouje-tower, built by Hatto Archbiihop of Ment:^, m the year goo ■^'"<i^-^"^- who, as the Story goes, in a time of great Scarcity, pretending to re' lieve the poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn uhere he burnt them all, faying. They ivere like the Rats and md Khtch would devour the Corn. After which he was fo perfecutcd with Kats and Mice, that to avoid them he cauled this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine, u hich did not avail him, for thev followed him thuher alto, and at laft devoured him. A little above this lies ^/'^g upon the Weltcrnlhoar; a confiderable Town, belonging to the Elector of Mentz : here our Beat liayed to pay Cultom, as it had done alio at Bon^a, Liutz, Humwerjiem, Andernach, Cohlentz Lode- jbeim, Bopport, St. Guwer, Cuh, and Baccarach. For the trade ' of the Rhine being great, Princes and Lords, who have Towns upon it, make
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ufeofthat advantage, which, though it abate. fhT"^ ^7~
chant, brings confiderabJe profit to them/blvef ^''"' °^ '^" ^^'•-
Bing, or Bimium, uas an olH /?««, r > the Ruer A^.x^or Aw enters fnt^ •: ^.""T" Tl 'Y ^''^-^- ^^ere handfome Stone-bridge : In h Town w '"^^'"'^ ^'"^^ ^^^^c is a
r..«s Army f.d. and'voundS wCh.^''"' "'t^T '^-^ ^^^ ^uke of Z... ed a fight againil the Forces o "the E Ir tj^/'"" ^^'^ "^-"^-"- From ^..^ u e continued our Journey fo^^./^lf "^ T '^'' P'=^^^- g^f^ a place noted for good Wine rJiPv ^^ a ^'"''I^^^'^ «n /?>&iw- was tliickand uoolly, hk^to the j/W ^'"^ "'.' ^^y' ^'^°^e hair
colour, which bdng'lomc what n ^fc.^iTV"^ °'"^/"^ "^'^^ hair u ith me. '^^ ^'§"^' ^ ^ook away fome of his
ther a httJe beJow it • in a terrl fr!. . 7' "^'^'^ ^^^ ^^'»^> or ra- and good Wine ; it Ws at ^1^ "7 "^'T^"^^ '" ^" P^^^'^o'^ River; and that part excel Toth" ^/ '^^V'^^^'^ ^'^^^^^s the not 10 populous or weJl-builf \t..XoT'T' '^''.^"^' ^'^^^^h is It hath many Churches and MonVfteries nnd^f '' /"'^o^''' g^^^^ed ,• oally thofe of pubUck concern^aft leTalace of S'e f ."^"'^'^'"g'^. elpel But the narrowncfs of the Streets Tnim f ^'^'^"'■' ^"^ others:
much from the beauty of^heCty Iti^aTl?'^ "r^"' ^'-^^'^ ^^'^Y the year X486. or as others wi 1 ha ' t L5x"'¥h'^'^'', begun about lenges the Invention of Printing, or a 'kail the fi?/'''' ^'^^ ^'^^'■ perfedion thereof: And the Terrirnrv .Ko . Promotion or
flrudlion of the Rcma„ Leg ins und r7^ l"' '\ ^'"^^"^ '°^ ^he de-
ing of this City, 1651. entring into t m W- ^^'^'."^ "P°" ^he tak- -W.., ,t being his BlrthK^ay^ Ch beean the 5'?^/'''' '^^'^ °^' ^- and kept h.s C ourt and C/T///^.;r here u L ' '"" ""^^'^ ^'^^'
with him fix chief Princes of the Emmrc n I ^\ °u'^"^'^ ^here Were States, Ele^ors, and Princes befiS^rDus^'A'^^f^^^^^ "^Kings^ tial men of his oun Army A 1 1 hi m ! 1"^ ^°''^'' ^"^ the Mar
peat ftore of Ordnanccld Powlr tf tl e' C '■"^:;' ^'^^'^ ^-"^ trom PUlage by giving the King a Ranfom f Fl^">7^^f "^^^ '^ 'elf and theClergvand Jews cave TivoM?!^. ^'ghty thoufand ZW^;-,. which the Je^vs paid Whfee^tJ^ L^d' Sin^t"^ ^^ '' 0^' himfelt upon the /?/..;,., and retirin' toV.l' -^^^ J-^'^^'^^^^^^^ng two great Bridges to be made, on^over thf "i.^^^^^^ ^'"S ^^"^'"^d allS great flat bottom'd Boats, the rcfl being bStnn;""'^ n ,"P°" ^^'^^^ Another over the Rhine fupported bv Lrv ^ g'""' ^'^^^ "^" ^"od:
lying the diftanceofanArcKm one notl^ ^^'f '" '^''^^^' ^^^h people living fometimes in the Boats under the 't^A "^^"U^^^ihes of over the Mam is tak.n away • but rh ir ,,. ■ ^^'^^^- ^hc Bridge ed : Upon which Ifaw the^^efent ElecC^^^^ ^''^ '^ ^'^ ^°"^-"- fon of great Gravity, of a iddle Statut?^^^^^ ^" ^"^^^ '^ ^ Per- was very Princely attended ; his NameTs i ^ 7!^. ^'^^ "^"•' and ble Family of^c/W«.., Ekclor and a ^11'' ^^^^'-^/^ of the No- /^«^/.i..^, and Biihop of Sw fJcl 7 ""^ ^'"'^^^ ^^^°P ^f
ventions he fits at the right hand of the Em^^''* '"/" P^^hck Co.- rhe famous B..f.., ^^^^.J^.t^^;:?^^^^^^
promoted
v4 Journey from Colcn /o Vienna.
.tnci^ort
prcmoted the CIniiiian BeLgn',7 m thtle pnrrs. But though liis D'^ni- ty and Place excel the two other Ecclefiailicai Electors of ^oUh and 7/vtfr^, yet his Territories ccme ibort; and thev lienor to^Tcther but fcatteringly with thofe of the Palatnute, Spier ^ Framkfcn, aiid divers places in hranconia. But of late he hnth much encreaied hi,s Power, by feizin^ the great City oiErfurdt in TuriHo^ia, whicii he hatli fmce much beautified and ftrengthncd by a Qtradcl built upcn Sc Fe-
In the year One Thoufand one hundred and fourteen, the Emperor //^;/rv the Fourth lent an Ambalfador to the King oX England Henry the F:,rft, requelling that Maude the Kings daughter whom he had for- merly efpouled by Proxy, might now, being Marriage-able, be fent to him : to which requeft the Kmg moll willingly condefcended,andthe Princefs uas prelently conducled by his greateft Peers into Germayiy. and at Mentz was married to Henry the Fourth, and there Crowned his Emprefs.
From Mentz I pafled by water up the River Main^ to Franckfort, a freeCity of the Empire, called Trajecium franco^unr^ a PaiVdgc or Ford of the Franks^ as ferving them for a Retreat, when they entred or re- turned from Gaul; at prefent Franckford upon the Main, to difference it from Franckjord upon the River Oder, w hich is an Univerfity : It is alargeTown, divided into two parts by the River ; the Jeilcr called SaxcnLdufen^ox Saxon-houfes^ united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main, of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of good Trade, and well Hated for it, as having the advantage of the River Main, which palTes by Bamherg, Schweiniurt, Wurtzhrg, Guemund, or Gaudia mmidi ; and alio the Ta/^hr^and other Rivers running into it, af- fords conveniency for Commerce with tlie remoter partb ot Francoma; and the Main running into the Rbjne, makes a large communication both up and down that Stream.
But this place is mod remarkable for the Elccfticn of the Emperor, which, by the Lav\s of the G Iden Bull, Ihould be in this City, as alfo for two great Marts or Fairs kept in M^nch and Septemler-, at which times there is an extraordinary concourfe of people from remote parrs, in order to buying and Idling of feveral Commodities, efptcially for Books, as well printed here as in other parts, whereof thev afford two Catalogues every year, and have no Imall dealings that way, by the Fad:ors ofthe Cfrwj^y, //i'//j;f(/ifrf, Iraiiajis, F;encl\;it\d Fngli//:: al- though at other times their trading in Books lecms not great ; for when I was there out of the time ot the Mart, the Stationers Shops being Ihut up, made but a dull Ihcw. Here are alio a great number or good Hories bought and Ibid : and on the North-fidc of the City there is a Ipacious place lor a Horle-Fair. The City is iirong and well fortified ; and molt part cf the Town are Lutherans. In the German Wars, the King oi Sweden having taken Han.nv, lent a Mellenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and Ipeedily let open their Gates unto him, and accept fairly of a Garrifon, or ftand to the hazard of a Siege : And although they were unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the woril, they confented. That the King fliould have tree palfagc for his Army through the City ; and that for the better af- furanceof it, fix hundred of his men ihould be received for a Garrilbn into Saxonhaujen ; and alio that the Magiftratcs and People ihould take
i
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120
A Journeji from Cokn io Vimni.
■(.. i
OArmjhdt,
V
an Oath unto his Majcfly. So that unr.n rlir- ^^.TT'^r 7
the King's .Arn.y ^^^0^^:"!:^:^^':^^ ^T^^;^ ''^^■ through the Town _ Colonel 4../.../ J^\^ Go ' n^u fn '.^"^^' h-'-ufen; and the King himfelf rode bare hr-,(lJrN:i[ '"/^^^*- and by his obliging behaviour diJlpeTa ily u „ rffV'^' ^'''''•■ Ix-holders; and three days atter retC? uthe a in f T °^ ^'^^ ,r.ve of /y./.«-c#.//; and the ^h^:^7l^^t "l/'f ^v here they met the Seventeen Earls oftl/e fr.LL f? t '^^'^' ' u^re feafted in the lame room where the Lpero at th. /?"'''''' '"^ ufe to be entertained i^niperois at their Coronation
M.n-i]ayers and Bant^ ts ; L^t^ ' f andiuar/for
Upon this fide th re is the Jareea m t ion ntr ^ ^ . , "' '^""''" ^^^35. tort ; on the other ilde very S ' '""^ ^'^""^'ng to /^..«i
and their Wives a peculiar drefs of their Head °""''^'
The Collegiate Church ofSt.^.'r//../m.,r,u here m3r>vr>ftf. r rerors have been crowned is brae h^^h o i.'^ " '^'^'c m^^y ^j ^j^^ £^_
red ftonc. There are dn'erV iSr r ^'' '^t^^Ple^and is built of a goodHoufes; inoneoftle£l^ofXifZ^^ - the Town, and ^fe, a great Merchant, and a civ 1 wo hy Zo^Tflu ''"''' '''''^'■ Piaces . Commerce,, whoobhged me .SX^:^;^:^ oTht
Houfe of HeUen^ commonly Wn'^ the nrn^e ? fhT^' f '^^
try, in the %h(of H:ii:ldt:s^;;;^s;tm''"£^^T ?""-
try planted with Walnut-trees Vires Cnm on i f ^^'"^^ C^"'^* Tabaco ; till I arrived at S/I ' ' ^''"' '"^^ '" ^'^"^^ P^^«^ ^'ith
In coming into this Town we paifed over t\^ R •v.r Ar AV.7rza, upon a Bridge covered over from on. T ^'""'^ ^''''^^'
large RoofofWood^in the JamrnnrisXw^ri"''^' ""f ^ the entranceof the City of ../.rw.. ^.Z/:;,^^^^^^^
/-^.r^, runs into the RiL at yJ^; J 1 'Th^^^^^ ^'j^ ^"^^ °ff^>^- Sreateft,yetisaconfidcrableRiverotS;J^^^^^^ '^^ ^he
the moft partat WW./., to be near his Force ^ ''^'^'^^ ^''
Heidelberg is feated on the South-fide of the River N.r u It and a ridge ot high Hills, fo as it cannot well dnfkot''' "'?'" tortification,orhoperoberatraor.lirorv ft -Jnm ol a modern
I'V the adjacent Nfountair! ft ]•« ^' [ tf^' T ^''"^ ^^er- looked
It hath bin an Univerfit^Vincc tLTe r T^.'\ ^.^'^ '°'^^^^^^ begun by A>«^..r/.x, Count Pa/uZ nnW.V^^ V ^'''^ ^''"^ " '''''
ed. in the ^e. Church waT^^^t^tr ^^ ^^fel^;
that
Ne'uulberj,
A Journey from Colcn /o Vicnrla.
thit tne 5,. Wr had taken th,s Town i6zo. was earned ro Ron,. and addcdto the r^....r«. where I Taw it in the year 16^4. being pla' red upon one f,c^ ot a very long Gallery belonging to t\,t Fat^an^x- brary ; and the D.ke of 7jrhn s Library placed on'the otherfide, over aga.nft It : loth u hich made a notable addition to the Panal Libnrv In this Quirch and the Church a Ifo of.o. Peter'^Zlrl-tl^..
Men The/..../.haveaCl.rcht?c,a d t^^^^^ the Order ot the //Jv-G/.// • and his Son a Mare^ai of IIS/: and good /W. and /y/^W«/./, are both generally Ipoken here. The Lutherans have alfo a Church in this Town, by the favour of the pre- Icnt Elector ; although he h.mfclt be a Cahnufi : and to exprefs his gererous k.ncnels the h-gher in this point, the firlt Stone was laid by ainife.tand his Son ; nnd it is called the r/wr/; of Frazude.cs, accor- ding to the F.led-ci- s Morto, Dommm Frov'idehit . ^^>"" f'l Town-houle is a Clock uirli diveVs Motions, and when u\Q Clock ili-ikes, the figure ot an Old man pulk off his \\v.t a Code crows, and jliakes^hr; w.ngs Souldiers fight with one another' and the like The brincc s Stables tor above a hurdrcd Horfcs are feated upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer formerly , above half thereof having been ruined hy the Imperalifts ; as alfo divers of the Srataeson the out-hde oi the Caaie, which is leated high above rh- Io\--n. °
Tne prefent Elcdor is Caroha Ludovicus, Son to the K^ng of Bohe. mu, Frederick the Fifth ; he was born in the year 161 7 and polled his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Elcdorate : and at the pacification, at Pr.igue 1635-. he was excluded from any re'ftitutioa to be made to him. But at length in the Treaty oi Munjler 1648 h'^ was reftorcd to the lower FMtin.ue,7inA 16^7 returned to the po/Te/non of his Fortunes: a highly accompiflied Prince, much honoured and beloved b}- his Subjedb. in the year 1650. he married Charlotte Daughter to lVillK:m the Fitth Landgrave, and to the famous AmelU Elizabeth, Landgrazejs oi Hafia; by whom he had the Chur Prince, or Eledoral Prince Clarke, and a Daughter,the Princefs Chariot t a Eli~ =.^fr^j ; but upon fome difcontent the Princefs Eledrefs fince returned to her own Friends and Country. This Eled:or is alfo Knight of the mofl Noble Order of the Garter , Great Treafurer of tlie Empire, and tcgcth.cr with the Eicilor of Saxony , Vicar of the Empire.
In his Pabce or Caftlj at [ieidelierg, are divers things remarkable,- a very great Tower to be equalled by very itsif ,- within which is a Theatre for Ct^medics Tliis was formerly called Trutzkaifar, or the Tower thatbad Defiance, or threatned the Emperor ; but fince the Reftauration of the Elector, there are fome Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star,and the olddifobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden tJ be conrinucd, and it is zt prclcnt called Stemfihanz, or the Star- fort. By it is a handlbm Garden ; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grotto's and Wa- ter-works are very handlbm : thev were alfo making divers others, having the advantnge of the H le of the Hill to bring down the Water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongft other Fountains that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken no- tice of. The C(. liars are very large and cool, filled with VelTelsof na
4
;-:^s^.
A Journey from Colon to Vienna.
ordinary fize ; yet inconfidcrable, if compared to tlie great Tun kei.r in a great Building joynmg to the Cellars ; it was built by this pre'eoc Eledor's Orders, 1 66-j. and goes far beyond any made before : It con- tains 104 Faiders and odd meafure, or about two hundred Tuns • in- (lead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers Inlcriptions upon them, and fupported by carved Pedeftals. Upon one fide of it is a
tlie top of
handfom Stair-cafe to afcend to the top of the Velfel ; upon .uu tu^ ui which IS a Gallery fet round with Ballifters, three and forty fteps hiah from the ground. j f b
About an Eng/i/h Mile from Heidelberg, between the Hills is a fo- htary place, where three large Streams or Springs guJh out of tlie Mojn- tain, and prefently fill five Ponds, have three handfom Cafcates or Falls, and after run into the Plain, and are ftrong enough in a fmajl Ipace to turn four Mills ; this is called Wotfshrun, or the fr^Z/y Foun- tatn, from a Pnncefs who formerly retired into a Cave in this delc-t place, and was here devoured by a Wolf,
While I was at Heiddherg, two Enghjh men came kindly to mc, Mr. t'tllers, and Ttmothy MUMeton^hdou^mg to Lohen<feldt Cloilhr a Convent formerly ot the -jefuiies, but fince let out to about an hun- dred £«g///* who left their Country i65r. came up the Rhine, and by the permiflion of the Eledlor, fettled thcmlelves a few Miles from hence, living all together. Men. Women, and Children, monehoufe- and having a Community cf many things: They are of a peculiar Re- ligion, calhng themfelves Chriftian Jews ; and one Mr. Poole, former- ly living at Norwkh,xs their Head. They cut not their Beards, and ob- ferve many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think themfelves obliged to from fomc Expreiiions in the old Teftament or from fome New Expofition of their Leaders. '
. ^^^^Heidelb'irg I made an excurfion,and had a fight of i'/'/>^,feated ma Plain on the Weft-fide of the Rhine; a place of Antiquity con- ceived robe Vrhs Nemetumoi old; a large place and populous The King ot A«;f^^« m the German Wars demolilhed the Works about it not willing to fpare lo great a number of his Souldiers as was re- quired to Garrifon It , and make it good. It is an Epifcopal See under the Arch-Bifhop ot Mentz : there are many fair Houfes in It , divers Churches , and a fair Cathedral , with tour large Towers. The Romanijh, the Lutherans and Cahinijls preach in it at feveral hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of good quality by reafon of the concourfe of perfons from otfier parts
?!. Ef^-^\ u '^/^'^'^'^^'i Law Suits: For here the ImtTrial Chamber is held^ and many differences uhich arife in the Empire are determined, and the Eledors and other Princes, in lome Tryals at Uw,n^y be called hither. It i^ a fettled Court, which Maxin^ilL the Firfl, for the better eafe ot all perlbns, placed firft at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at S/>ire, from whence it cannot be now remo- ved, but by the confent ot all the Eftates. Things Cognofcible in this Court are determmed by an Imperial Judge, and fcaled with the Era- perours Arms, fo that there lies no appeal unto the Emperor
Another day I went to ^W../«,, formerly a Village, leated at the Confluence of the R^ine and Neccar ; but walled about by the Eledor trederick the Fourth, and fince is much encreafed ; all the Streets
being
A Journey from Colen to Vienna.
being larj,e and uniform, and a Noble Cittadel built ; within which, over againft tlie Gate, the Elcdor defigns a Palace, the Model of which I faw : and at prefent, on the right liand, there are three Pavilions of .Lodgings: in one of which lodges the Eledor Palatine; in another the Prince his Son ; and in the third thr Princefs his Daughter : behind thefe there is a handfome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen, the Churfurfls Miftrefs. Here are fome good Pidures, as a Head of Hans Hulhen, and a Landskip with the Story of the Union of the Sivjfers. The Bridge over the Moat of the Cittadel into the Town, is alio remarkable, as having fix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and three fmall ones on the fide There are Palifado's all along the' bottom, in the middle of^the Ditch, and without upon the E/pU- Made
From Heidellerg I travelled to Nur>,herg in the Company of Cap- tain Wagenfeyl, who had been in the Polijh and Hungarian Wars, and was employed a little before in blowing up the Caftle oi Launjleyn, be- longing to the Eledor Palatine, to prevent its furprifal by the Duke of Lorrain. He was then employed to raile a Company at Nurnl)er-i,, for the S'rvice of the Eledlor Palatine. I had a good advantage in my Jour- ney by liis Company ; for he travelled with Authority, and v\ as a ge- nerous, knowirg, and courteous perfon.
Th^firfl day we travelled near to the iV^ccjr, in ftony and rocky way •, and it being dark before we came to Mofp^ch, the Peafants con- duced us from Village to Village with bundles of lighted Straw.
The next day we came to Foxlerg, where there is an old Caftle,3nd in the afternoon reached Morkenthul, or Meigethenn, the Seat of the Grand Mafler of the Herrhn Deutcheni, or the Teutonick Order. The Town is well built, hath a hh- Piazza, u ith a large Fountain in it, and a Statue of one of the Grand Malters, with a long Corridor e from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, and hath had large Pof- feirions,^as may be feen in the exacfi Account of the Teatcnick Kmgl.ts of Prufia, made out from the bell Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. Ajhmole, in his Noble Defcription of the Order of the Gar- ter ; and as Lskis du May, Counfellor unto the Duke of iVirtenherg^ hath fet it down. Fur the Knights Templers and of St. John, ha-jiwr fought projperOHjIy againji the Infidels, raifed an Emulation mfome Ger- man Qent. emen, ivha waited upon the Emperor Frederick the Firft in his Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croifado. And lecaufe they ivcre injl ailed in the Church and HofpitalnfSt. Mary at Jerufalem, they were called .Marianites. Their Order differed nothing from thoje above-mentioned hut in the form and colour of their Crofs, and was ap- proved hy Pope Celeftin the Third. Afterwards when Jerufalem was taken ly Saladin, tbofe Knights betook themjelves to Ptolemais, from tvhence the Emperor Frederick the Second, fent them hack into Germany, and employ id them againft the Prullians and Livonians, who at that time were ft ill Pagans. But by the Valour and Piety of thoje Knights, their Souls were brought into fubjetlion to Chrift, and their Bodies to the Or- der which began that War in the year laio. a little while after thefe Kn'ghts Jound themfelves Mafters of a Country of very large Extent, which obeyed the Order, till the year 15x5. at which time Sigifmond, K.ngofVohnd, gave the inveftiture of Prullia unto Albert Marquejs of B andenburg. In the year 15-63. the Great Mafter lecami Secular a-
R 2, gain^
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N^renkrg.
A Journey from Colcn to Vienna.
g.vn, ami took a part of the l.and^ fuhje^ to the Orrler, ivith the ,ume ,r V -ke of Curland. And Li\-on i:i h.i v}wi^ leen the Suhiecl a^id Theatre of m.ir,y Wars leiiveen the PolanJcrs, Mulcovitcs, and Swedes • tJ:e!c ijil did at leni^th hccome Maften of it, .wd have it in pofeJi/ionJlL'l. ' So t'at t ere is r.o rrwre renrainit^g of the Tcutotiick Order, lut Joryie Comnian denes jcattcredh re and there in Germany, And the Great Majier ha^h his Seat and fiefi 'euce at Mcrgenthal.
They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Crofs. The Di<Tnitv ot Grand Mailer is generally held by fome Great and HonourabIc''pcr. Ion ; and m the Great Aflembly he takes place of aJ Bifhops The prelent is the Baron of Arr.rmg ; and tlie Grand Mafter before him \\^s Leopold li i/Iiam, only Brother to the Err.^Qxor Ferdinand xht TInrd. ^
From hence wc travelled to Lauterba.h, near which we pa/I^tl ;f ,'?"S'\a ^Vood, and tound a Noble Church upon the top of a hiah Hil!. u Inch being much frequented by Pilgrims,tliev have made hand- ome Itone Stair, trom tic bottom to the top : tlien to Rotenlur^, and lodged at Burgperner, and the next day by Schantd-ach u e came to Nh- r.-nheig. Rotenhrg is an Imperial City, uhich fome have likened unto jert>Jakm tor its Situation upon hillv places and many Turrets in It. It is Situated near the head of the River Tauler, which may be accounted the fccond Ki\xr oi Franconia, palling by fo:tij;<re» L.v- der^ and H'erthaiir, where it runs into the Man. '^ '
N^^reiderg is the faireft City that 1 faw in C^rw^y ,- the Hcufes mort oi them of Frec-ftone, very hi-h ; and divers of them painted on the cutiidc, and adorned uhh gilded Balls on the top ; many are of (ix o^- leven Stones high. Der Herr Teller hath one of tb.e iaircfl The City IS very populous and full of Trade, although it Hands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River. The tlirce bcfl Cluirches are die Hojpital Church, lately built very fair ; St. Laurence, whicli is \erv largc w ith t'Ao high Steeples in the Front ; and St. Sehald the belt of the three. The Body of St. Sehald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen, in that place where the O.en ftod Hill, .they buried the Body and crcded this Church in h.is Memory, hi this Church is a Crucifix ot Wood, very well carved, and cilccmcd at a h'oh ra^c Tf-e Crucifiv without the Church is very great, and of a black colour :' and fome tanxy that the Raht_ Herrn, or M.giih-ates of the Town, have repofiSd a Treafoc within it. The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole Church fo ftatcly, that it may pafs in the firft rank o? Lutheran C.uirches; that Religion being here pracSifed in its fplendcur The Pneft every morning reads the Scripture to the people tor half an hour or preaches a Sermon. The Toun-houfe is well uorth the fecin- • In It the Ha 1 is fpacious as alfo the Chambers, and furnilhcd with -ood Pi(!tures and Stoves Mel gilded and painted with white and gold oy^^n and gold, dark coloured and gold, and the Lke. There is one P.dure ot molt ot tho Great Ferfons in Cerwany entertained m the Great Hal'- another ot the three Brothers of ^^x.^v ; one of an Elephant .s biE as the htc ■ a piece of St. John and St. Mark, and another of St. Terer\nA
and E\\\ by the fame Mailer, v\ ith this Inlcnption.
Alhertm Durer Almang facielat pojl Virgims fartum, i ^07.
Another
A Jmrmyfrom CJolcn tr^ Vienna,
Another excellent one is thnt of St. Luke drauing the Pidure of our Saviour and the blcllcd Virgin: Over tl:e Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxc carved in Wood, and painted over, w uh tlrs Inlcription :
Omnia halent ortits Juaipte i'crementa.Jed ecce Quern cerms, nunquam Bo. fuit hie, / ituliis.
The Caftlc fcanl upon a high Hill, from- v.-hcnce the Town makes
well exprei]i:d. The Armour of I/eklele van GaUir.gken the great .Sor- cerer is here Ihown ; and in the Wall of the Caftle'die marks of his Horfts feet, wlien he leaped frrm thence over the Toun ditch.
The new Fountain was not tlien finiihed ; but the Statua's in Brafs ma c for it were excellent j the Sea Horfes large, the Sea-Nvmpljs mucli bigger than the life ; and N ptune^wh-^ was to Hand on the top, is above tiiree ya ds and a halfhigh.Wlien I came firft into tliis place, I was not a little lurprizcd to behold the fiirnefs of the H ulcs, hand- fome Streets, di&rcnt Habits, induflricus People, and ntatnefs in all things, more than I had oblerved in Girnan Cities before ; and no place hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brafs, Ivory, Wood, wherein thev work at an extraordinary clienp rate ; and there are Officers to inlpcd and enquire into the works of Artificers, that they be true, pcrfed: and without fraud : they make flrong and hand- fome Clock-work. The l^ing of /'<? '<7/?^pre!cnted t!ie Grand Seignior with a very noble Clock, who took fo much defght in it, that wiien it required fome mending (the lurks beirg ignorant in Clock-work} he fent it from Admnople as far as IS^urcniutg to be fet in order a- gain.
Guflavtis Adolphus, King of S.\ c ' ;;,wasmore m,agnificcntly received and entertained m this Ciiy, than in any other oi' German, ; wliich lb incenled WjiWy/rj//, that he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great fpoil upon their Territories : But the King of Swede:/^ marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards Lutze\ where in a bloody Battel he lolt Ins life.
The Bjx^cx Fe^niiz runncs through MiZ-^^^rg, and hath divers Stone Bridges over it ; and below the Town, jo}ning with t!ie Ri.er Red- mtz , runs into the River Ma n at Bamlerg ; and the Mam runs at laftinto the Rline. The Re^'ii^tz arifes at Pf'eifienlerg, and is not tiirti-omthc River Alimul, which runs into t\\e. Danul)^^ towards Regenf'urr. Upon tins convenience, Charles the great deflgned to make a Communication of pafijge between the Damtle and the Rbme ; and made a Cnal: thirty pac;s abroad between the Re.initz and the Altmtdl, to joyn thofe Streams for tlie commodity of PalLgc by Boat ; but after he had prooceeded two German miles in this w ork, I^cgs , Rains, and his warlike Diverfions made him give over that noble De- sign, whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, Ironj the L"i'' C'un ries to f'iefna, and even unto the Euxi tie Sea.
The Roman Lieutenant in Nero\ time, had a def'irc to unite the Ri- ver Soane and the Mojel/a ; and to make a pallage between the Medi-
teri anean
i).i }
126
A Journey from Colcn to Vienna.
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terranean and the German Ocean ; having been at the mouth of the Mnjelia by Coblentz. , and parted troiri Chaahn upon the Ibtt and noble River Araris or i'Mw unto Lyon, \ cannot but think thefe very goodly Streams, and fit for fuch a purpofe. The prelent King of France Iiath a defign to unite the River Aude with the Ga- ronne, and fo to have a palfage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea bv T/joIou fe znd Bourdeaux, into the Ocean. When I travelled in thole parts, viewing the Country well, I thought it would b? a difficult work, and fo it proves : but the King hath proceeded already verv far therein.
About four Leagues from Numierg lies Altdorff, belonging unto it, made an Univerfity in the year 161^ containing u hen I was^thcre about 1 50 Scliolars. The Phyfick Garden is handlbme, and well flocked with Plants, to the number of two thoufand. Dr Hoffman the Botmick and Anatomkk Profe{four, ihew'd me many of the mofl: rare of them J and prefcnted me divers. The ^w/twy School js not large ; yet the only one in thofe parts of Germany .■ And thev have divers curiofities preferved in it, as the Si-e/eton of a Hart of a Horfe, of a Man, of a Bear bigger than a Horfe : And forae Pidures as one of a Ninrjite, and another of Mofes,- whlda the v take to be Ancient. Dr. /^^^^^/o'/, Profeflbur of Law and Hiftory, brother to Captain Wagenfeyl, who travelled with me from Heideller^ invited us to lodge at his Houfe, and Ihew'd me his Library, and all hilRaretieJ andCoyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having lived m moll places o{ Europe, and fpeaks many Languages well ; he gave me a piece ot the hrft money that was coined in Germany. In the Univer/itv T brary I faw a fair Hortus Eyjletenju, and romgerman\ Colieclion nf Plants by his own hand. *
At Nurnlerg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the HoIL^J Ambaflador m Turk^, who had travelled hither over-land from c ftanttnople in their return into the Low-CcuMtries, traveilincr in CrZl Habits. '=' ^'^^'^
From hence I went to Neivmark, a good Town in tlie upper Pibfi Ttate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria, and the next day through Heinmaw, lubjed: to the Duke of Newherg, to Regenshurg. ^
Rat iJbonaRegenf burg, Augufla Tiber li , Colonia Quartamrum the chiet place ot the Ramans m this limit of the Empire, u here the fourth Jtalkk Legion had a conllant ftation ; u'as made a Colony by Tiber i us in the year, as fome conceive, of the Palllon of our Saviour. It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour Amulphus who had a great afTedion for this place, fo pleafantiv feated, and in a good Coun try. Here the River Regen runs into the Danube ; from whence it u-as called Regenjlmg. There are two Bridges,one of wood below the Town, and another Bridge of ftone of about fifteen Arches • which is the faireft ftone Bridge over the Danube. It is an Imperial City bu' not without fome acknowledgement to the Duke oi Bazaar la ■ And al' though It be ftrongly fortified, yet it was taken by the Swedes m the German wars There are many fair buiiuings m it, botii private and pubhck ; and though I am not able to confirm what fome report that there asaremany Churches andChappeJs in this Cit\-,as there are dayi la the year ; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents : As the Ca- thedral of St.Perer,Qn the South-fide of which is the Piihire of St Peter
A Journey fro?n Colcn to Vienna.
.,^4-M!
in
in a ihip ; andon the North another of the Apoftles firft Miflion. In the Piazza Hands a neat little Church, the Convent of St, Paul founded by St. ^yolfga>tgus,?,\^v.oy^ of this place,the Convent of St. Eme-^ rammus Bilhop ot Ratisbone, a Saint of great Veneration here, though ^^^nsbm^ but ot hctlc mention or name in other parts. The name o^ AlherTus .4/j^;///j,Bi(hop ot^this place,hath allb added unto the Fame of Regenfbur^ But that which chiefly promotes its luftre, is the General Diet or Parliament, u hich is often held in this City, and is not to be called ia any part out ot Qermany ; and the place is not unfit for the accommo- dation ot luch a noble Convention, as are the Eftatcs of Germany. The Vicc-Marlhal takes care to provide Lodgings refpedtively to their perlons, and fees that all things be brought hither, and at a juft price - that the Hall or Place of Affembly be furnifhed and adorned fuitably to th^ dignity of the Perfons convened, and hath an efpecial eye and re- gard towards the Publick latety. By this Convention tr.e great Con- cerns ot Germany are much fecurcd, and their peace and quiet Eftablifli- ed. Wherein G'^/'Wrf;;v fecms to have a better advantage than Italy; for Italy being likewilc divided into many Dominions and Principalities' hath no Common Diet or Great Council, whereby to proceed for their Publick (atety : Which makes them often fo divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger.and when they mofl need a joynt Com.- binction.
I entred the notable River Daml}us at this place, which hath al- rcacy run a good courfe, and pafled by many fair Towns or Cities ; as tile large City oivlme in Swahenland^ where it begins to be Na- vigable ; as alio Donuwert^ Neuburg^ and Ingoljiadt^ and hath already received the confiderable River oi Lkus or Leek whereby the Com- modities of that great trading City of Ai^gfbcrg, arc brought into ir/ When I firft embarked at Rrgenfburg.l thouglit I might have taken leave of the Damibe not far below yienna^MX. an opportunity made me fee this great Stream beyond Bdgrade.i^ I have declared in another Account of my Tiavels.
The firft day wc pafled by tkonawfltyn^ where there is a Caftic feated upon a high Rock, and came to Pfetcr or Fetera Cajira of old, now but an ordinary place. The Boats upon the Damibe are generally painted black and white, are flat bottomed, and broad at the Head and Stern ; there is a Chamber built in the middle ; and the Rudder is ve- ry large, to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid, and of a Swift Courfe.
The next day we came to Straubing, a handfomc walled Town, be- ^^'*^'^'"^' longing to the Duke of jg^x-^r/;/; the Streets are ftreight; and there is a Tower in the Market-place, painted all over with green and gold colour : There is alfo a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We palled by Swart z in the Afternoon, where the Church is feated upon a Hill, and isirequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at Deckendorff^ where there is another Bridge. Near this Town comes into the Danube that con- fiderable River Ifer^ or IJara^ having pafled by divers confiderable Towns; ^sLandfhHt^ Frijing, and Munchen.th^ Scat ot' Ferdinandus Marta^ Eledor of Bavaria^ Great Steward of the Empire, and at pre- fentthe firft of the Secular Electors, and he is to take place immedi- ately after the King of Bohemia , it being to concluded on at the Treaty of y%!^»/?fr, ^\\^i^ Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed.
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128
A Journey fwm Colcn to Vienna.
■trf
i'iiKt
Lintr,
to hold the Elccaorlliip, which U'as confrmcdli^hiir'irTjr-J-
?i;/ "/'"r ''f"''' "1'™ '"= «^'" j'^i " -"- ^- . e F h cS;
Falatir.e, and in lieu hereo there was an pidhr V\, ^>r^ n "^ '^"^'?'»^f""t the /'.zA;/,«„v^ Family whoalfo ,fr ?2 ^ ^ ^'P, '''"^"^ <"''
Ti.urfday, Novemler the fifteenth, Weomehv rr/;/7.» . n //• P-^/^^/^, cr ^.W«.«;^, a Jongand nolle rTvTn.-^.'''"^'^^'"'' or ^.j..;,, made up of three llwm //. // S % r '' ^^']'' ^'^^''-'^ the concurrence of the River /^I-hf^n' ^f-^''"\'^^ ^-/^^^^^t
Towns are co,.n.cnIy of g^^t .^i^^u y v^i^^h^i^^.'^^he C '^ fluence ofcrcat Rivers for the Sf.-m, ^i, r c cuiitat tlie Con-
cnce ofci^merce ^S iTJhls ^S';;^^ t'^S ^ 7^" lony and the ploce of the C.^. /?..... in old dmc "" ' '^ ^"
Ins Revenues a e ar^ .nd l^r^ " 'a ''''^'^'^^S PaJace upon a Hill ; ^ath the S :'^;S: nS: gS; L^-SS:!:^: ;e.abouts, he r^^^t/;:a. This place had lately fuf?ercd much hlfJ f -^ '^ T '^'- M-as rebuilt, and very fairlv airr rrlw, r ' ^' ^^^ ^5^°^ Part
well be reckoned as Le of the ten ^^^^^^^^ '^^'T ''''' "^'^
the LXw.le, accounting from ^/^"^ unto S^^X. 5 V ^'^'^ "^ "P^"
di which from /rL/..^.. I h d dfe'iit^ftun tT;;;r', '^?'^''' f ^^^'■f '•
my Journey Near to i VV.II ^, opportumt> to lee before the end of
South, IS thepeateflRiv;Tth! .: ^y^;:^^^^^^^^ ^^ '''
Sa/rzlug . and arifing m the ^Z* -x in fuch i hiohCn^Jlr; It runs in here witha £reat forr/ on^ Jj ° ^-ountry as 7/rr/,s, oftheDW. ^ ^orce,_and.adds much unto the f«iftncls
Upon the Sixteenth we came to Z;»/- t-J-,«^i,- r/-- • . . ^«7,«, not very great, but as „eS td 'ha ndr^f fg,'" ';,'"g''« Crr^My. There is in it a very areat M,;^l« T f^ ™" '" Houfe m it. the whole Town builf of a very w hfre ?' "i "" " " ''"' &ftle upon the Hill . of MorderrBu.S.";^d //rv h^ '' xl"'' "■' alfo a Bridge over the Damle Thp Trr^r. ^'. r - ^^^^- T'^^""^ -s
when ^. /jL« came L^;;/; ^.isTrt'^u''?' rendezvoufed here
of ^.//..; in the tim or^Tw^he Second '^'^'l^-'-^'" ""'''''"'' dy together of Forty thouiknd m'n, nd m^^^^^^^ pieci7of ol" ^'^ ' P" were floutly repulfed after manv AfT.uL J P'7^^°^ Ordnance, but
,.. W N^ot fa'r belo^T.rSellt'r^^t ^n el thTS '' ^ comes from the Cen>m^.er Se,, or Lacu, fZT i ? ^ f ' ' '^-^ ^V^., and other Town, and ha^hl^Sat;::^^^^^'
^ journey from Colen /o Vienna'.
The ^^hirli? =i vocIj in th.- 7)iini-f^. /{?.';,..,-
/'t/;/ y.»,<7
The next day we pafTed by Eks, Amjia, upon the River J^iffus, or Onajui which taking its original m the Borders o? Saltzhrdand runs into the Danuie, and divides the higher from the lower AuJinahzMim received into it felt the River Saiua, upon which ftands CelLov Mana Cell, a place of the grcatcll Pilgrimage in Aujlria. Near this
or^riT"/ ^^'"^''Coy"s=i"d Antiquities found, and i:^«r/^r««, Itood of old, a Hom.w Garrifon,and afterwards a Bilhop's See: wccame toa\illageontheNorthfl7oarofthe Danule, called (7r./«,, where the Qraff von LeichtsnHeyn hath a Houfe. A little below this are two dangerous palTages in the River ; the one called the StrHdeL^\itx^ the Kiver running amongft vail Rocks,rome under water, and fome above the waves are broken with great force, and the Current is rapid ' oaming, and troublelome ; and fome skill is required to pafs between the Ledges- ofRccks which are under water, and when the water is
^ low
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A Journey from Colcn to Vienna.
low he paffage ,s very d.iHcult. The other is the WurleL or a ki^d ot V^hirlpool, where the water turns about with great lorce be m^ hmdred m ,ts diredt Courfe by a great Rock. Uponfhe top of a h Sh craggy Rock (lands a large Crcfs, and at the foot a Jitde Church dedicated to S, N.hcUs, who is Patron of this dangerou place and IS bchev^ed to take peculiar care of fuch as pafs this way, and tlSefore a httie Boat comes to you as foon as you are out of danger and ^^^^^ aeves what Acknowledgment you pleaib, or what perhaps you mav have promifcd togue, when you were in lome ear/ This nSht ^c lodged at Ips, Ipjru,.^ or //#,, a Town on the Scuth^de of ?he £)...^.: over againft it hes Befade.g, or Tjfl-^um Ptl^T^, XwJ Cerr^an mdes below Ips ft.nds PuhUm^ conceived to be W.J. i^ former times • and here the River ErLph enters the w/ Se and a haU below this lies Mekkc, NoJie, or Mea d.akita^ former to^ /'"//" "^ 'i^', ^''r^ «^''-''-//-., until St. Z..^./> removed
to A'alenherg, and his Succtircurs
to rjenna. The Town lies
at
length upon the SoutlM.de of the River; but the noble Cloifter of
f mf r'? ''^'''^'}'^T ^'^^^ ^^'^"y other in W.//..., ftand "upon a Hi 1 u h.chover-looks the Town, the River, and the Country about IS nchly endowed, and remarkable for the Monuments of Sv"". Perrons and the Tomb of St Colman, much honoured in Thde larts We dmed at ,tej., where there is a Bridge over the /?.«. J Nea "n this lies CrerrM^ another walled Town ; and over the w aS MalTerT or.d not tar from it the rich Convent of Ket.esn ; At^er ?hL the Riv.r Tra:J., or 7 r,g^j.n,a^ ^omes in fron the South Having d.^p^ I the noted Town St. P././, or St. /^^M^-, we lod^d "h^^^^^^
%^:';Xn^ ""^ '-' railed 4 Z7.4 ...<t^^-
- r
THE
THE
DESCRIPTION
O F
V I E N
IE N N A, or I1^e'.f, which the Turks call Beacb^
is the Chief City of Anlhia, in the Latitude of forty
eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not much differing
from the Latitude of Paris, The old Seat ef the
Dukes of At4jiria^ and for a long time of the Empe-
ro rs otGfrwawy. According to ancient account it rtands
in Pannonia Juperior, the Bounds of Panmnia extend-
iig unto Kalemherg^ or Mon^ Cctius^ five or fix Miles Weftward of
Vknna ; beyond which ftili Weftward all that lies between that HiJI
a:id the great River Oenus^ or Inne^ which runs into the Danube at i^j/-
jaxv^ or Caflra BatavUy was anciendy called iV^r/'*w.
It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the Roma?n^ ^wd c%\\Qd yindohona^ as the Learned Petrus LamUctus hath at large declared, where the Claffis Ifinca fometimes lay, and the tenth Ger- man Legion had its flation ; all this Ihoar or fide of the Danube heirs fe*- mousforthe A(3:ions of Roman Emperors againtt the Marcomu^n^wd Quaz/iy who polTelled the Country on the other fide ofthi? River, an^! efpecially for the Wars of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Ph/lojophus, wh<jj notably defeated thofe Nations, and who, as Aurelius ndor Qwha:^ was Governor of Sirmium in Pannonia inierior-, in the time of Conjlau^ tius^ affirms, fell fick at Camuntum^ now Petrenel , and died at Vindobona^ now Vienna. And to confirm the Antiquity hereof, oefides what Wvlfgangus Lazius hath delivered, not many years fince fonc Antiquities were found. For in the year r66x. when a WaJl was Gig- ged up near the old Palace, the Workmen digging ft ill on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a fmall Gold Coyn, a Glafs Urn enclofed in a Brals one, an Iron Knife like a Sicefoita^ or Knife ufed about Sacrifices, a lit- tle Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, fhut up with a Golden cover at both ends, wherein was an Infcription in Ifrange Charadiers : Not far tirom the Sepulchral Monument were found a Head in Brafs, a Brazen Pate>-^ ra^ Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other Vellels, and a Copper Coyn of Antoninm Caraca'/uu The writing in tlie Golden Scroll, which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned Lambecjus to I o the old /'(^wwo^/u^ Character, and that thfe might be the Monurnr?nt of fome Pannenian Prieft in tl>e days ^iCaraca/Ia^ who, as good Authocis deliver, fpent fome time about thele parts.
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132
A Defcription of Vienna.
iV
■+«l..
I % T'' "*1
1 nli
JVcJ a" '^l South-ndc of the DaHuh, on the npa Ron,ana
that fKle neareft to Rome and many Roman Colonies, according to the ufual pontion of V^^.«;.« Stations, both upon this River and th?S;L. as may be exemplified m Colen, Bonna, And.mach, CohUntz MnU mrmes, Sp^er and Strajl.r^ And in like manner' in the oklt^'^^ Stations, on the South or Roman fide of the Da.ule, which were in no Ml number in or near the Auflnan Ihoar. as Carnuntum, or Petrc^d / ,fM or A^utmnium Eierjdorff, or A/a Nova, Melck, or M-' n,ale,Arlape,oxPechlarne,LenNa otnntz', ior hereby they better before them "'^' '""^''"^ the incurfions of the ^,rh^.
It is not feated upon the main ftream of the Z)^««/. but by a branch thereof; tor the River running through a low Countr^ ,- it is divided imo feveral Streams, and makes many Iflands. A fmaJ River named W^nrms by the Eaft part o this City, and enters the Danuie, bdSv It, which upon floods doth often much hurt, vet fomctime. 1.^3 very (hallow, fo as I have ilepped over it .- fo'm" wSTv:i"^|^ the Name unto this City : it divides part of the Suburbs from it ?n^ hath divers Bridges over It For that we may have a dillind appre- henfion of r..««., we mud confider the City and Suburbs hereo" the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Houfes Gardens' Walks, and all Accommodations at large. ' ^'^'^°^"^'
The City itfelf is that walled and fortified part, dcfiened not nnlv for convenience of Habitation, but alfo to fuftain I sleg? or any At^ tack from the r«r^ and is now feparared from the Suburbs by a fZ Effianadf, or open Ground, above a Musket Ihot over. The Houfo near the wall were pulled down fince the lafl Fortification in t er«S war, when they were m (ome fear that the Turk:/}: Forcev abour r. and iV...^«M would move towards them, ft is IZtum^Z ;r^mth ten Baflions towards the Land, and a very deep Difcirimo which they can let the Damie : and with two other BaftionftoVlrS he water, on that part ofthe River which lies on the No?tl>fide If the Town. Thefe two latter are called the Works of Gonzag The Bafbons are large ; upon one of them niw Count W^.^Wra good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is lai^e and veTy deep into which although they can let m the River, yet kis commonly ken; dry left they might incommode their deep Cellars. TherTare ^o walls, the one old and inward, iittle confiderable at preS, built at firft with the ranlom of our King ^..Wthe Firft, who in his re urn from the Holy War, was detained Prifoner by the Duke oS" i" upon thczoth oi December, ^,9^. The ^«y/..ix pretending 1^^ had received fome affront from the King at 7.^^^, and that he had taken down the Enfign and Banner of Duke Leopo/^in a contemptuous way The other outward of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced S Brick, edged with Free-ftone, fo well built, as to render this Ckv one of the moft confiderable fortified places in Europe. Th^ eILZI gently defends from the Town for three hundred Paces Zillt very few Outworks. ' "^ ^^^
h i'i!*'? uncertain who was the firft BuUJer of riema, and after it had been long built it ran to decay again for Four hundred years tSe ther, till /^enrythc Firft, Duke of ^«yU, in the year i ifg ^dTd S repaint; andtheranfom afterwards of King /f.iw beauufied 1?
The
A Defcription 0/ Vienna.
The whole com pafs, taking in the Suburbs, makes'a very laree Cir- cuit, but the City it felf. which is walled in, may be abcut three miles in Circumference, and is exceeding populous, as full of People, for the bignefs of the p ace, as moft of the great Cities. And I could not but take delight to behold fo many Nations in it, as Turh, Tartars Gr<e^ uam, Tranjyhamans, Sdavomam, Hunganam, Croariam, Spaniards Itahans, French, Germans, Polandcrs, &c. all in their proper Habits '
The chief Gates are fix : i. Stuhnthor, or the Stuhen Gate towards the haft %, Kamtertbor, or the Gate ofCartnthia' towards the South 3. Burghor, tile Town Gate, or CajHe Gate. 4. Schottentkor or the' Scotch Gate 5- Newthor, or the Neugate ; thefe two la It towards tlie Weft : And 6. the Gate of the red Tower towards tlie North, which leads unto the Bridge over the Damle : and towards the water-fide there is alio a Port by the Emperor's palace,and a Cloyftcr or Nunne- ry in the Town hath the Name of a Port called ///w/«e/ port or the Gate of Heaven. The five firft of thefe Gates are vaulted and arched with long paflages through the Town-wall, and have good Bridges of Wood, u ith Draw-bridges to pafs over the Town ditch : The fixth is under a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of tlie £)afjule : For that River runs here in a flat low Country ,divides its ftreams, fo that to pafs it quite over, there are at prefent feven long Bridges made up of many thoufand Trees laid one by another, after their way of making Bridges.
the Houles ot the other, fo th t to continue ic,thcy were forced tobui'd a Bridge or Arch in the Lower-Jlreet^ to let the upper to pafe over* it.
The City is fairly built of flone, and well paved ; many Houfes are of fix ftnies high ; they are fomewhat flat roofed after the Italian way ; the Streets arc not narrow, but the compafs of ground will not admit them to be very broad ; and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground ; their Cellars are very deep. To fatisfie my curiofity, I went into fome of them, and found four Cellars one under another; they were arched, and had two pair of Stairs todefcend into them. Some have an open fpace in the middle of each roof, to let the Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the lowefl; an adit or /«- ie unto the tGp,to let the Air in and out from the Itrcet, fomewhat af- ter the manner of the Mines.
^naas Sylvius^ about two hundred years fince, commending the City of Nnrnhurg^ among other exprclfions lets fall this : Cuperent Sco- torum Reges tain egregjc quam mediocres CivesNonnh^rgtnks habitare. Tlie Kings of the Scots would be content to dwell fo well as the mid- dle forts of Citizens o{ Numburl I mull confefs, when 1 firft entred Nurnhnrg, I was much furprized to fee fuch a noble, large, fpruce,rich, and well built City : but Fienna doth alfo deferve the commendation which he aflbrds it : Z'bz Palatu digna Regtbus^ ^ Templa ifUiS mira^ ri Italia pojjit. Where there are Palaces fit tor Kings, and Churches which Italy may admire. And this being fpoken fo long ago, is now better verified of it.
The Imperial Palace is very Noble, Subfl:antial,and Princely furnilh- td, confifting chiefly of two Courts ; the one very large, the other lei-
fcr,
^■■«
.Jip
134
A Defcription of Vienna.
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fer, wherein the Emperor Jod^es Ar ^Iln p«.3 . — "
fetin Cap.tals Lettm thefv ' Vow k W ;?%"? ^'^ ^^^^' ^^ Phancics of men make vanous inter Jetarion.' t. '/ J ''.''"'^^ ^''« me, was this, w«//„^ ./? ZV.J./S/- 7? / '' "^^'"^^ ^^^'^ ^"''l
tbcugl. I could hardly Ul eve fh stl the ^Vf"^, 'S ^''^''^^^- ^1- ncfes there two Court's is anX'r'S ot , u e'e^S Tthe"! '^■■ lodge. I took notice of a larae rouph 7 ,/!, n x "^ ^"S^''^
groundJittJe regarded or obfef^ed.f;/!^ flone iymg upon the
wasprefemed un'to the Lte^ t^t^r hK^c^^^^^^ ''
Country affords notable Quarried "^ f [f '^'^^"P '^ '^'^^''.-^^'•^(^whofc
piece oHt pohihcd, aLds finrN^How '^'"^^
The Palace ot the C^unt ^f r "J nd Ih ' ^ f''.V'"^ ""'^''^ ^^^"^• S^^^Ut and nobly .rn^^ -^^-^rSleT ^T^
large Church, in the middle whe Lf tlW Lve builr C^r^^^ ^'? ^ the manner of the Holv Hn.w;. o. i- ^ ""'^ * ChappcJ alter
hang the Colouma^^V^^'^L'Vira^d' 7-r" "" "P <?'"l!'^'' En/lgns are not fquare lite aar^U^^J J^"' """^ °f »''"<^'>
Witf Circles, wh^rra«:x;SrM:,c^n!'"m
are large, whofeldom fail nfrw.K/«r V "^"^ /^>''^-y Colleges
they hav'e fo ^oS fo^ti^g as L^S ^TCT ^^^T""^^ '" P^=^^^^^ ^'^^^ opeis into a fair p!l!^>^/L . e miS' ^'^^ highcompofiteColumnd'S;J;";l'i%:^^^^^^^^^ V^^^^ ^"'^
four Angds with Efcucheons, aSd^ on the top S ln^"f ^?""'' "^j^^ fcnptionsairo,inuhichtfacEm^ordeTr/.^f i 1^^^'' ^''Sm ; In- nagc and Tuic on. * ^ '"'"' '^'"^'■''' ""^° ^er Patro-
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ADefcripion of Viennj
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I could not but oblerve the 6'../c>& Church and Cloiller, which gave alfo the name unto the Scotch G^t^ of the City, becaufe I fomewhat wondred how the^c.,. in old time fhould be lb confideraWeTthl place ; but I found by Information, and the Account oiLaztus and Mat th^usMenan m Htgh-dutch, that this Convent was in former times a great Receptacle for the ^../.u, their long Pilgrimage ^n^lr^Te^,
founded
^
iS6
^M^riptionofYKum.
founded and endou^Jl^TM^^^^;;^
gory : and ,t may feem Icfs Grange that l^^^^^^ °^" ^'- Gr,.
v^ent here and be numerous m thffe pSLn former t"'^^''^ ^ C°"- that Str./^^;,,oneof the Saintsof the sreateftTn^ ' '^-"^^ ^""^d^'' try, was a ^<r./c/.;^^«, and faid to be of rh. r T^^'^'^/^o" ^n this Coun- n h,s paffage to 7.V./.«, was mufd ed ^f K^^^ people at Suci-erau, four (7..;„.. m fes fn^m^ 1 ^"7 .°' ^""^^X frce, where, as the Story goes his Rn^l f' ^"^ ^^"ged on a
year and a halF, and div4 M ;a L bet "aX"n?^ "?^°-"p'^d for a down, and honourably interred near ?^ r™^^,"^ ^t' ^t was taken
of Magnificent Monuments in their Qh^rlht ^''P^"«es not admitting
otiier Orders, no Tombs are erSed wort^^^^^^^ '' '" '^' ^'^"^^'^^^ "f luch Empreffes. ^ ^°"''^ ^° S^-eat an Emperor, and
^But the Cathedral Church of St C/^/,/ ments of many Princes and Great Perfom- r;/°""/"' ^^^ ^«nu. ing, but fomewhat dark bv reafon of Ihe rf. ^ "* ^ ^''S' ^^f'^^J BuiJd- vcred with Lead, but with Tfe of wo d ^ticr^'l''^"^? ^ "°^ ^- thereof yet makes a good ftow. TIk: SreeS ^ 'c'^' °"^^ ^^^^^^ markable, as beiog high, large ftrori \^J? Vr"^ ^P''" ^''^ ^'^ry re- ,,,. vveathcr-cock-p^e ofthe 4- S^ CroltnT' ?" '''' ^^ - -TVIoon, according to the Figure I h-ive n^r.V ? "^'^^'" "" '^^^^ ^nd half People think to be of Golfor t £ft trv w' M ^'^^?"' ^^^'^'^ ^^" time of Thunder and Liglitnintr it l< nl f ^ T" ^'^'^^'^ '■ =^"d in the
They have th. Accou^nTot^^ , ^.f ^^e^^^^ place : That when Solyman the M.gniSt h r ^' ^" "P '" ^^^'^ ving the Forces in the Cty to be Sate he ) f ^ '^''"""' P^^^^'" tcr down the Steeple about tiieir earf « ' '"'^ an intent to bat- great Commanders, advertifi.m w2 'u ^"'^'"^ ?^ ^"^^ ^^^(Tas and vv ould prove, and w.tlial when fc ook Z IT'T^'' ' '^'^^^'^ '^ ;^ouId be unto him to have fuch a Noble Pyr^nll ^^''l '11'^°"'^"^ '^ He .nt word into the Town, That h^!: j iSg t^l^^^^
up< n
V>'...
A Defcription of Vienna.
upon condition that they wouldlT^p the half Moon and Star fthe nrbJhArms) upon tlie top thereof. They returned Anfwer that
This Spire hatlithe largeft Crockets I have obferved in any thev being above a j-ard long, and adorned with foliage work The Spue of La.^/h.te m B.^,r^a, is accounted the h.gheft in g7™v thafof
This Steeple is accounted about four hundred fixty and five foot ligh being about half way up three hundred and thirty eirtfteps Bcfides other H.-ls, I could fee //..«,^«.g,. Hill withinTwo^mies of /'mW and a great part of ^«//..., which the long C^urfe ofthl /W. rendred very pleafartand delightful into the eve In he Chamber or Room from whence I had this profpeA, there is a Clock whole Cafe being of wood, was in part burnt down b^L gh ning and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extiS tlfe' fire
itroTalf:ZZf' ""''T " i'" P'^'^ "^"^ thf Ills ^^^^^^^^ VScVti^^nZ^ TT'^'l'^''^^' or wooden Bells or Haa^.mers^ Which they make ule of from Good-Friday till Eajter-funday all the
Z^^^HP^' '''' " ^^^ ^^^^^' ^"-S ^^^^ "- ^ey permit
i^ De/cription of Vienna.
in Vienna
UnOhucr.-F.'cit.
At one of the doors of the Church there is a ftone placed in the ivall, which is generally conceived to be one of the flones wherewith St. Stephen was ftoned. h feemed to me fome kind of pebble, and is worn and polilhed by the hands of the people, who when they enter at that door, do touch it with their fingers. I was alfo ihewed one of the ftones which killed St. Stephen at St. Sernine, or St. Satumines Church in Tholoufe in France, which is a Church abounding with Re- liqug-Rareties, and where they alfo think they have the Bodies of fe-
ven
A Defcription c/Vicnni.
ven of the Apoftlcs, of St. George, of our King St. Edmund, and of for- ty Saints.
In this Church of "Stt. Stephen, bcfides many Monuments of great Princes and famous Pcrlbns, divers learned tr.en have Sepulchraf In- fcriptions ; as Johannes Faher.Bilhop of Henna ; Johannes Cufpimanus. and Sehajtianus Tengnagcl/m, tornierly Library-keeper, Hilloricgra- pher, and Councellor to the Emperour, an extraordinar} learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages, as the Infcnption delivers; as Helreii\ Syrzack, Chaldee, Ptrfian. Aralkk.TurkiJh, ^Ethiopick, Greek ^ Latin, Italian, French, Spahlfh, German^ l-elgick, and Englifh.
The Univerflty o{ Fienna is alfo remarkable, if we confidcr the An- tiquity thereof, the number of Scholars thctr courfe of Studies, rheir accommodations, privileges and advancements. This is laid to ha\'c been begun by Alhertm the Third, above three hundred years pafl .; and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been borrow ed from tlie Univerflty oi Pans, and the Students were diftinguilhed into four Divifions or Nations ; who, befides the General, have their particular Rules and Officers, aid were comprehended under the Clajfis of Au- y/r/./;/j. Nations of the Rhine, Hungarians^ znd Saxons,
In fhe Anjirian Divifion were contained the Fr.idians, all of the D!o- cefc oi Trent, all Italy, with the otner Provinces beyond the Moun- tains.
In the Claffis of thsi?/^^*? were comprehended Suc-u'ians, Alfatians, Francomans, Hajfians ; a!lo all the Provinces to the South-weft", as France, Spazn, Nav-.rre, Ho Hand, Brahant.
In the third Clafis,ox Nat to //w^/g*?/-/^, were contained Hungarians, Bohemians, Polonians, Moravians,SclavoniaHS,d\\ that fpeak the Scluvo- nian Tongue, and alfo Germans.
To the Clajfis or Natio Saxonum, were reduced Saxons, Wejlphalians, Frifianders, Turing' -^ns, Mifnians, Brandcnhurgers^Prujfians, Livonians, Liifatians^ Power am ans,v^'\l\i\!n^ Vltramarine Kingdoms oi E gland, Scotland, Ireland, Sweden^ Norway^ and Denmark,
Thefe Divifions take up all the Nations of Europe -^ and indeed there are Students here of many Nations: and upon Contentions and Diilercnces the fcveral Clajfes Will hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy againft:each other, but will all unite and hold together in differences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen fumetimes unto an high degree.
They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge : and I met with few wlio had any good in fight in new Philojopby ; but there are many good Philologers, and are well verfed in Languages, Hiftory and Antiquity : and there are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from other parts. Some who had taken notice of the Royal Society in London^ were very inquifitive after it ; and when I had la- tisfied them in all particulars, were very much pleafcd therewith. If they Ihould fall into the way o{ Experimental Philofophy, being very indufl:rious, 'tis very probable they may do much therein,and they were fure to have the countenance of the Emperor. I found them alfo much affected with tlie Enghjh Society in other parts oiGerr/tany. At the Univerflty di Altorff \ was much enquired of concerning it : and a Magift:rate o^Numburg, who had got a Tilefcope from London, invi- ted me to his Houfe, to pradticc the v;^y of ufirg it. Drj Herr von
T % Adlerjbetnc
^3^
M
A Vefcription of Vienna,
^
Alder jhelm^- of Lcipjick, a Pcrfon of frreat Curiofity, was very inquifi- tive after the fame S ciety. And of late years the Cunofi o{ Germany have held Learned Conventions and Correlpondence,and printed their Clfervatwns^t Lefpjick. And ilnce my Return into E^glanJ^WxuvQ been follicitcd from C^ijfovia in Z^ppi r Hungary^ to fend iXi^TranfMions into thofe Parts,
During my flay at /7^;;;;j,T went unto a publick Anatomy of a Woman that was beheaded : the Letlure lalfed {o long, that the Body- was Nineteen days unburied. It was performed by a Learned Phyfi- cian, Dr. Wolfjiregel^ who read in Latin to the fatisfad:ion of all per- fons. What I mofl particularly obferved therein was this, The Pyra-^ widal Miifdes very plain and large; the Vterus larger than isufually obferved ; the CartiLgo Enjiformis double ; the Limgs very black ; the Eye was very well ihown ; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large one of Pallbcard and Paper, contrived and made by himfclf; the Alufcles of the Pharynx, Larynx, Os Hyoides, and the Tongue^ after their difledlion, he reduced very handfomly into their proper places again ro Ihew their natural fituation and pofition. The Ana'omy-Tbeatre was of capacity to receiv e above an hundred perfons ; but of Anatomy-Ttjea'res, until of late, there have been fewinOV/*- many, or none. And when I was in the Anatomy^SchooldX Altorff^nt^t Nurenlurg, that learned civil Profeflbr, Dr. Mauritius Ilojfmamm, to\k me that the fame was the Firft in Germany.
Pauhu de Sorbait, Prime ProfefTor, Phyfician unto Ekonora the Em- prefs Dowager, and Knight oi Hungary, was the Rector Magmficus. Zwelfer, who writ Animadverjtons upon the Difpenfatory of Ausburg^ was in great repute in Vie^ma.zTi^, had built for himfelf a'^Noble Houle in the City, but he died fome time before my coming thither.
In fine, the Univerfity is noble, their Advancements confiderable, their Privileges great, and they have the power of hfe and death^ from Ancient and later Conceflions of their Dukes and Empe- rors.
But the greateflluflre unto Viennals the Refidence of the prefent Emperor Leopolds ; he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto tiie Emperor Ferdinand the Third ; he was baptized by the Names of LeopoUus, Ignatius, Francijcus, Balthazar. Jofephus, Felicianus. His ekieft Brother Ferdinand, King of the Romam, died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus Jofephus, Mafler of the teutonick Order, dyed 1663 He married Margareta Infanta ol Spain daughter unto King Philip the Fourth, whofe Children died Infants; a vertuous, affable, grave and worthy Prince, and feemed to me to live very happily here, in the love and honour of hi^ People, Soul- diers, and Clergy.
His Perfon is grave and graceful • he hath the Aujlrian Lip re-' markably, his Chm long, which is taken for a Good Phyfiognomical mark, and a fign of a conftant, placid, and little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of fcur of his Predecef- iours, that is of Rudolphus the Firfl, of Maximilian the Firfl,of Charles the Fifth, and Ferdinanith^ Firft. He was very aftedionate unto his Emprefs.who, though but young, was a raodeft, grave Princefs, had a good afpedt, was zealous in her Religion, and an Enemy unto the J^ ws. He ilicwed alfo great rcipeta and oblervance onto the
Emprefe
A Dejcription of V^icnna.
141
Emprcfs Dowager Ekonora, who was a lobcr and prudent Princefs well skilled in all kind of curious Works, and deliglited ibmet;mis to flioot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of licr Coach. He was alio very loving unto his Sillers, beautiful and good Princefles j whereof one, the eldcft, was fmcc married unto that Noble Prince Michael^ Wifnowitz.^ki, King of Poland. And ajterwards to Charles Duke ot Lorain.
He fpeaksfour Languages, German, Italian, Spa^ifJ:, and Latin. He is a great Counrcranccr of L arncd Men, and delights to read, and when occahon i)er nits, will pafs fome hours at it. The worthy Pe- tria Lambecim,\\\% L'brary Keeper, and who is in great elleem with him, will ufually (ind out fome Books for hun wliich he conceives may be accepcal)Ie. While I was tliere he recommended a Tranlk- tion of Religio Medici unto him, wherewith the Emperor was exceed- ingly plcaled and (jxike very much of it unto Lamhecius, infomuch that Lambecim asked me whether I knew the Author, he being of my own name, and wnether he were living: And when he undcrftood my near Relation to him, he became more kind and courteous than ever, and defired me to fend him tliat Book in the Original Englijh^ which he would put into the Emperors Library : and prefentcd me with a neat little Latin Book, called Pnnceps in Compendio, writ- ten by the Emperors Father, Ferdinandus th^ Third.
He is alfo skilful in Mufck, compofes well, and delighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church, which makes (o many Mufici- znsm rienna ; for no place abounds more with them ; and in the E- vening we feldom failed of Muiick in the Streets, and at our Windows: And the Emperors delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to f<^t oiT their Church-Muuck , fcr he goes of- ten to Church, and not to one, but divers, efpecially the befl Conven- tual Churches : and in his own Chappel fome of his own Compofiti- ons are often play VI. He hath alio excellent Mufick in his Palace, both Vocal and Inftrumental ; and his private Chappel is well ferved, where befides the excellent Mufick, there are always eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperor, who ferve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands ; and after the manner of the Iralian Princes, divers Eunuchs to fing.
For his Recreations abroad, he delights much in Hunting, efpecially of the wild Boar in due iealons; I have known him bring home fix Boars in a morning. Some ilout perfons, particularly count Nicholas Serini, would encounter a wild Boar aJcne, but atlaft he unfortu- nately periihed by one, which hath made others more wary fmce ; and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Huntfmen fo ftand about him, that tlie Emperor, or other great perfons, may more fatcly make ufe of their Boar-lpcars upon him»
Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country, for they are no unufual or extraordinary Diih in the City, though of a de- licious and pleafing tafle. They leed upon Acorns, EeecL-maJi, and Chefnuts, upon the Ipring or iprout of Broom, Jumper.^ and Shrubs^ and upon the roots o[ Fern, and will range into Corn-fields, and come out of Forefts into Vineyards. The Huntfmen are notably verled and skilful in that Game ; lor though they lee k not, they will diftm^uilh a wild trom a common Swine, and guels whether that which they hunt
142
A Defcription of Vienna.
;ii
be Male or Female, old or young, large or fmall, fat or lean ,• and diis they chiefly conjedure irom their tread or loot, and the cafliP" t'^ir hindleet out ot the track of their forefeet. '^
_ The Emperor being fo good a Huntrman,it is the lefs wonder that he 15 efteemed a good Horfeman. Certain it is, that he hath a very noble Stable ot Hortes, procured from all parts, T.ri A Tartar, an, Pdoman lranjyLvdman,Saxon,Bohemun,f{iAy,<[arian,N.>ples, (^c. and tliev are wd! managed ,• and diey ride them to the fatisfhdrion of the Beholders
Having leen the ArJe^mUt Venice, the Stores -t C/a/z/v/^, and the Naval ProvihcHs at Awjierdam, I am not like to admire anv other, elpecially h tar from the Sea, and looked tbr notliincr of tlia't nature in this place Notwithltanding [ tound an Arjenal, and place tor Naval VelTels to be let out upon occa/lon, and Ibme thereof were employed in the lalt Jurkijh war, when they attempted to deilrov the Bridge ot Boats which the Turh had made over the Danuie, a little a- bove Gran and Barchan. They are built Ibmewhat like G '/kys cafv great Guns,and a good number of Souldiers, and w,!l make a tight upon the broad deep llream of the Damde^andm^y be handlbmlv brnihE into the To^n belnnd one otthe Ballions,wheii the River is1ii -h • and hereot there are lome at Rah and Komora as [ have declared elfewhere
The Emperor hath many Counleilors, ?treat Souldiers and Court'- ers about him ; among which thele leeemcd of grcateft Note
E"fe^nts We.cejlaus Duke de Sa^^an. I.-nce Lobowitz, Prime Coun- fellor, HoS-rneirer^ ot tlie Orderoi :iie Golden FieeceU pe^fon ot a grave and fober Alpcdt, ibmewhat blunt in converfarion but of a generous temper, and tree trom all covetoufnefs, who fpent'hts Reve- nues nobly, and unto hi. great reputation : He was chief fivc rite un- to the Emperor ; and though Ibme had no great opinion of his Abilities yet he wastnehr I that ddcovered the laft Hungarian deiedton S revolt, whereby thole Noble Perfons, Count Fet^r Serr.i and Nadadz Cvvhom I law at VLma^, were brought unto their ends
;- ^^^'";^ ^''^'^^^''•^^ Count oi Stakrcnierg, Okr^boff-MarefchaL or Lord Marjhal oj the Court. J ■> ^t-
Johannes Maxtmm^^^^^ OherJlKar.mer^Herr,ox
Chief of the Ch.m'er, a Perfon ot great efteem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous, and many are m extraordinary ; there may be an hundred ot them, aJl B.rons and Con.ts. Every one of them wear, a Golden Key before his Breft; and the Grooms of tke bed- chamber wear one ot Steel : Two of eacli attend e/ery Nic^ht c^O^r^t//'' ^''''''' Dietncljiein, Oier-Sta/Z^MeiJhr, or Chief Majler
Thefe are the Chief Thefe following are aJfo conilderable Count i:/;...^^../^^ OherJh'Jag-MeiJier, Grand Feneur, ox Hunts^ M^Jler. a Ferion in good favour with the Emperor, who very much de- lights m Hunting, as have moft of his Predece/Tors
The Count of ^z;...^..g,0^e./?-/r^/^,«.y^/,,y^ Chief Fakoner^x^ho nata twelve Falconers under him.
The Count of Paar, Chiet Mafler of the Emperors Poji LeopoUc^ mihelmus. Marquis of Baden, Captain of an hundred Ilartjhires who are the Horfe-<iuard, and nde with Pijhls and Cara- /■^..outo the City ; but wkiiin /-/.^..they carry Laun^es and 7.- velins with broad points. ^
Fr,%ncffriis
A Defcription of Vknu'ci.
of the Foot-^jurdfiiiL good Perlonu^e.and well eftcemcd ofhy the Em- P' rour.
Si«Kty, or morc,f j_^^T;tor the number, is uncertain, and not limited j mod of tlicm Comits and Burom-
Raynnundii.s, Count de Mont^ruad/^ was !iis Cojcrai Pre/ldcnt of the Council of War, Governour of Rjh and the Confines about it, and of the Or ^^£r of the Coldcu Fleete ; a tall Perfon, (omcwhat lean, but hath a fpirit in his look : he is one of the oldeil Commanders in Ew rope, and performed good Service in Poland , I/n^g.iry , Qermayjy in many places, an J isclteemed a prudent, valiant,ind iucceftfol Com- mander,
The C'oiint de Sonciei Mas alio n Cummander of great Fame, and in high eftccm with the Emperor. He was a Native of /?c?r/j£\//(^ : he f^rfl ferved t\\^ Swedes in the Gernuw wars, and was a Colonel, but upon fomc difgull he tbrlook rhc Swedes, and lerved rlie hnpc-rhd/fts, and was made Governor of Bnn, the fecond Town in Moravia, f'xzx t!ie taking of 6>^'w/;y in Auiln.i, General Torjienfui^ beflf^ged 5//v, anci fent word unco the (io\ ernor de Souches, Thiat if he retufed to deliver up the Tovvn, he would give him no quarter. Who anluercd him, That he would not ask any, and aUbgive none: and defended the place withfuch refolution, that after many Allliults, I Jnderr^inmgs.and Attempts by Granados, Torjtenfon v\ as forced to rife, aiter a Siege of four months, which was fo advantageous unto Aidlna and the Vw/^,^- i-/^/ atlairs, that the Emperor took eipecial notice of hi!n, made him ^ Baron, and of his Pnvy-CoimciL He commanded alio all the For- ces in yiemui, and did notable Service in the laft Turk/lh wars. He took tiie City oi Nitra^ or N/tr/a, not far from Strigoninm or Gran ; and took and flew fix thoufand Turks which were lent by tlie Fizi- er of Bud.i ngainll him : a worthy Perfon, and of a good Afpecl:. Count Sonches the younger, his Son, an Heroick Commander, is Go- vernor, of the rtrong fortified place Leopoldsiadt by Frefia't^^ i^erlbn of great Civility, unto whom I was much obliged.
Count Leih. Nephew unto Count Lefly, who was fent AmbalTador to Conjtantinople to the Sultan from the Emperor, is a Commander worthy of that cftccm he liath with the Emperor ; a Perlon of great Courage, Civility and Humanity, which I muft ever acknow- ledge.
The Courts of the Emprefs, and of the Emprcfs Dowager, are fi!!
;ec:
with Perfons of Note ; jlid there are a great number of Soddiers in this place of great Fame, as the Marqiiils Pw, Spark, Cop , and manv more. Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning,are in good eftecin with the Emperor ; but the Tejaites Mochwr and B'.ccaheiLi, are his near Favorites. Many Strangers both Souldiers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here. And lurely -Sti^angers of parts and induftry, lb they be oi the llon^an Church, arc not like to raife their Fortunes any where better than in thefe part5.
Though the Emperor goes not to war in Perfon, Vet hath he been fuccefstiil in his wars, elpecially in the Battel with the Turks at St; Go- ^/^r/^, where the bufinels washandfomlv and actively managed, to fer ut)on the body of the Turks^ which had palled the River P.ah, ISefore tne whole Forces ot the Vizier could come over, to' the great Slaughter of the Janifanes and lurks , who fought ftoutly,^ anc^
were
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144
J Defer ipio?i of Vienna.
were firfl 1 uc to a Retreat by tlic French Cavalry.For at firR the Turks fecmed to prevail, and !iad (lain a threat part of two Rcgimenrs of the
^«Av//jr/i which came out of /"A-rfz/w^/./, and alter their cu Horn had cur offthcir Heads.
But hi. later wars have been flill more fortunate, wherein he hath not only relieved /Vijwa/, and taken divers cities from the Turks-, but reir.ains ftill xMaftcr of tlie Field in IJuw-r^a y. Among the many no- table things in y:enna, the Imperial Library is very remarkable. He V, ho Iiath feen the Bodleian Library at (.xford, and the Vatica^t, -ix Home, would be much furprized to find iuch a notable onehcre,as may compare vvirh tliem ,• elpcciall} upon the extreme Borders of the Learn- ed part of Euroj)'.
The number and nnblenefs of the Books doth much exceed the re- ceptacle or place which contains thcm,as making no fair Ihew at the en- rrance,and Ibmevvhat wanting light. But as for the number and value ot tiie Books, they are of opinion here that ii yidds unto none.but rather excels any other Library in Europe. There was a place defigned for the building of a ht receptacle tor them ; but, I know not how,^a Thea- tre for Comedies is now built in that place.
It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms,which are fo well filled, that many Books are tain to lie upon the Floor ; and the Shelves (land fo clofe, that there is but iufl: room to pafs between them. The Ma- nulcripts, fland diftindt from the printed Books,according to their Lan- guages, being divided into fix ClalJes, Theological, Juristical, Medical Fhdojophical^ Hiitoricd, Fhilological. There can Icarce be a more ad- mirable Colledion tlian the Manulcripts in part of the firil Chamber of Hehr u; Syr}.!ck, Arahick, Turkijk, Armenian, yEthiopick, and Chi- r.eje Books. '
It was begun, at lead the Books began to be placed in this recepta- cle, by MaMmilian the Firft, but hath been much encreafed bv liic- ceejing Emperors, moft of them, fince Rodolphus'C^^Yxi'^ being much addidlcd unto Learning, there having been large accellions from many noble Libraries, and mod upon the coft of the Emperors The choi- ceft Books m t!ie famous Library of Buda, of King Matthias Coruinus .•5on unto Huniade%, are now in it. The notable Library of WolfvaZ gus Lazius who was Library- Keeper, was brought hither, and fiircc thoufand Books ot Johannes Sambucus are now in this Reoofi- tory. ^
Auger im Busleguius, fometirae Library-Keeper hereof, added much unto It ; and in his two Turkilh Embaffies procured a great number of noble Cv-f^/^ Manulcnpts at Confl ant maple, which are infcribed with his own hand, Aug. de Bufheck. emit Conjhntinopoli. A great manv were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cufpimanus, i^ibrary Keeper, and Councellor unto the Emperor. The notable Li- braries and Mathematical Inftruments of Tycho Brake Kepler and j;.//^.;.^;.., vvere purchaled for it. But the largeft acceflion was made by the noble Library of Count Fug^er, which confifting of fixteen thoufand yoIumes,was purchaled by /^^r^/.WtheThird. Many were brought, fome itv4 years paft, from the Ambrafian Library by Infpruck by the Learned /'fr.w LambectHS , Library-keeper , Hillorioeral pher, and Councellor unto the prefent Emperor J who hath alfo an ex- cellent Library which is like to be added unto ie Irr,perial. He then
reckoned
A Dejjription of Vienna.
reckoned the Vo!ui-nes in tliis '^vi-iX. IJ rarv to amount ar iealt to Fourfcorc thouf-j-d ; .iM by this time tJ:ar numl.er may be increafaf, lor he adds Ibmc yearly. And the nun-hcr might ahuoll be md^ lefs, ifdiey would make ufe of their privilege, for the Emperor 1 at!i a riglic to have two Books (^["all chat are pnnted in Ccrmauy,
They have aJlb a great advantage at A^/>«?/./ to acq-aire good Alum-
Jcnpts from the Turk}/!: Dominions, for the Emperor is obliged to have
a Rclident wit!) the Grand *.SVi:A7/^r wherelbever he moves or orders
him to be; even at the laft fight of St. Godurt, the Emperor's Re-
lidenr was in the TmkilT: Camp. And w hen I was at L.irip, in 7/;.-/.
faljM\Q Refident Signor de C^fu Norj^ was inquifitive alter Books to
be found among the Creeks in Monalleries and other places. And this
Emperor, like his Father, will fpare no coft toward fuch Acquiries.
^ By the efpecial favour of my noble Frierd Lambecim^ \ went many
tiires into tliis Library, and he was fo courteous as to let me have v>hac
Books I defircduntomy private Lodging: He would Ihew me divers
Books upon what Subjcd" I required, and offered m.e a fight of what
Books he thought rare and ellimable ; and am.ongft others I could not
but take notice of thefe following :
A Letter of the prefcnt Emperor di Ch'ina, in the Chinefe and tar<* tar'uw Languages, unto the prefent Emperor of Gtr^raHy, weaved in a verv fine RclL
Another old ^c-// written in unknown Letterr, vet a little refemHin'^ the Creek. ' "^
A Bo:)k in the Runkk Language.
A very fair M^inufcnpt oiPtolomy, with the Maps drawn in Colours.
The oldejt Marjtifcr/ptznd true ExempLir o'i Livy^'m large Letters, without diftindion of Words or Sentences., very uneafic to be read, a tlicufand years old, and brought, not many years llnce, from the Library
V^^IX Lijpriick,
An old fair Greek Munufcript di Diofcorides^ written eleven hundred years fince in very large Lett-, rs, without diftance oHVords.ox Accents^ wherein all the PLnts arc lively painted ; alio the Ficlures of Diofco- rideSy Galen, Pampbilus-, Cratevas^ and other ancient /Vry//cvrfw5-,bought of a Jew at Conji mtmoplc for an hundred Ducat s^\>y Bnshequius.
A Book oiGeometrkal, fropojir/ons demonflratcd in tlie CJjJm Lan- guage.
Another fair one in the C/:mi Tongue with P/chres.
A noble old Greek Mamfcript in great uncial Letters., without flops, points, or diflance of words.
An ancient Greek Mamtfcript of the Book oiCen^fis^ in large Letters., without diftance or accents, thirteen hundred years ago; wherem are Forty eight Pitlures or Draughts in Miniature or Water-colows., much conducing to the knowledge oi ancient Habits., the manner oiFeajimg., pcflures at Meals^ waiting of Ser-jants and Mufical Insiruments : Where- in I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Jojeph's breaft ; and the manner of the Execution oi Pharaoh's haktr^ his head being put through a forked piece of \\ ood , and his Hands tyed behind him.
A fair Book of ^^Ikrt Durer, wherein are many fine Paintings m Miniature or Limning-, as alfo d. Sphere^ and within it ^ Globe carved and painted by him.
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A fair Book o^ Michael ATtgelo^ wherein, befides many rare things in Archittilure^ are all the paint ir,p and defigns oi the Belvedere, in lit- tle.
A fair Alccrjn in Arahkk^ interlined with the Turkijh to explain
it.
The Bille in the Coptkk^ and Perfian Languages.
Luther^ ow n Bihle^ marked w^ith his own Hand^ and interlined by him with t^ota in many places.
A fair Greek Manufcript of the l^evo TeflamentfiStttn hundred years ago written in Letters o( Goi J upon Purple.
There was alfo a Afagical Glafs^ohtaincd by the Emperor RoJolphus^ whereby to fee Appariti ns^ and converfe with Spirits ; which feme conceive to be the lame, or of the like nature with that uied by Kel*
Of ancient Cr^^yf, Roman^ and Gotbick Medals ar\d Coyns^ In Gold^ Stiver^ and Copper^ to the number of fixteen thoufand. Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperor Murcns 0- tho.
I let fall feme Drops into this Oceart^ adding fome Coyns^ Intaglias^ and hfcriptidns not to be found in that large work oiGruterus ; u hich having found in the Emperors furthcft Dominions and Turkijh parts» longout ofhis podeflion, where there had been no great enquiry af- ter them ; were Ihewed unto his Imperial Majefly by Petrns Lamieci-* us^ and fo well accepted by him, that he faid I might have the u(e of what Books 1 defired : and at my return into England h^ gave mc a formal Pafs in Latin for my fafe Travel, and that my Trunks or Goods might not be fearched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in pafling lb many Pnnci^alites and free Cities^ Commanding all in his own Do- minions, and Requefting all Princes in Germany to favour me, and per- mit me to pals freely without molcftation : It was thus Subicri- bed,
Leopold us
Leopol lus Gulielmus Comes in Kimgseggs.
Ad mandatum Sacr. Caf. Majeliatis proprium Beiier,
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The Rareties of the great Duke of Tufcany^ The Treafure of Loretto^ St Marky St. Denis in France^ of the Duke oi Saxony at DrefJen^ and others, were very fatisfad:ory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, I would not leave Fienna without a fight of the moll noble Treajury or Repofitory of his Imperial Majefly \ elpecially having heard fo much thereof, and knowing it to be the Co/Ieilzon of many fucceeding Em- perors. 1 therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers h^urs in ic, and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curiofi- ties thereof To fet down all I faw, were a work too large for this Volume; and the Catalogue of them, which is kept in this place,
takes
Bppriwpiwiii MiimPi .1 ! II-
A Defcripion of Vienna.
takes up a large Volume in Folio. I iliall rhcrclore only mention thefe fclknving, whereby Ibme conjecture may be made otthc reft.
In the firll: CuphoarrI or Cufe were many noble VelTcls, turned and Ihapecl out of Ivory^ a Cup turned by the Emperors own Hand \ ano- ther lurneu by Ferdi^uin-'us the Third. Gallant Capsoi Amber \ Spvom and f^'^fffeis ot^ Another of Pearl : many noble works in Cora/; a fine Ga//ey in /vorj^ and Caj^s made out o^ RhiAocerois horn.
in the fecond,
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An Elephant of Ivory with a C*////\upon his back, and over the Caflle a Ship^ with much other fine work in the fame piece. Two fair Pillars of Ivory ; good Bajfa Relievo in Ivory ; a fair Cramum or Death^' head^ and much other variety of Ivorj work. A Pitlure in Oj/ot Ga- nymede^ by Corregio.
In the third,
A fine Pitlure, of an old Mans headm Oyl by Albert Durer : great Variety of Watches and Clock-work in Silver : a fine Cent^mr in Sil- ver which is a curious Watch.
In the fourth.
More Watches and Clock-work ; a gallant Ship of Silver^ a Trium- phal Chariot^ a Turk riding and attended, a Globe and a Sphere in Silve'\ a curious Landskip in (3;/ by Corregie-^ a C///'/r/ by the fame hand, with a line Copy of it.
In the f^fth,
A curious Filegrane Handkerchiefs and two fair FiUgrane Plates brought out of Spain by the Emprefs Margarita ; an Indian Bas- ket of an Indian fort of File- ram mixed with Birds ; a iJj/i^w of -^- gate finely wrought with filver Craw-Jijhes in it.
In the fixth.
Is contained a ftrange Colleclion of In'agUe and old Roman Stones^ad- mirable for their work and largenefs. A large Agate whereon is wrought the Hiftory of that Fiilory which Augustus (T^/^r obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians^in the ninth year of our Lord ; about five in dies long, and four broad, highly valued .■ An exad Cut of which is here inferted.
An Omx with the Head of Ale'<andery and Olympia.
A Shell with a Battel carved in it.
A Chain with the Heads of all the Aujlrian Family.
A Dog in a very large Sardonyx.
In the feventh,
A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The HeadoS. MaximtUa- ms the Fixft in VUifter^ with a lock of his own Hair. Mother of Pearl
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148
A Defcription of Vienna.
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in many fhapes. Fine Baskets, and the twelve C^e/ar^ Heads.
In the eight, moft of Try 1?^/,
A noble FeffeUhovit a yard and half high, made out of one piece of CrjflaL An Vrne. The //r^^ of the Emprels. h.ii\x Drarron. The //f^^ of the Queen-Mother of France, A Chryjhl'm which^the Pic- ture of our Saviour may be feen thrice one way, and once another way.
The ninth of Cryftal alfo^
A noble Ewer. A fair refe/ of very clear Cr^^fij/^ lately bought. A large Heat/. Fair Crojfes, and other Varieties.
The tenth of C^/^/ and precious Stones.
Five Crowns. The Imperial Cronn; rich in Jewels, and hath a ve- ry large hlew Saphir on the top. A Model of that Crown with which the Emperor is crowned, much richer than the Original. A Paragon Dia- mond of feventeen Carats and a half Very large Ruizes. A Scepter oiVnicorns horn, fet with rich Stones. A Locket of the greareil Dia- monds. A magnificent Scepter, Glohe, Crcjs, and Crovcn, which coil feven hundred thouland Crowns. An Opal bigger than my hand, as it was taken out of the A//;f<?; and many other hir Opals. A verylartre Emerald. A Ship in an Emerald, A tair Ring-DiaL ^
The eleventh of Gf?///.
A noble Bafon ufed at t!ie Baptif^ of the Austrian family. Scepters Scimeters, Knives, and other rich Prejenti trom the r«r<". Three rich Dog-Collars, fent by King C/W/>j the Second with tliree Do^s out of England, with this Mark on them 3C OC. A large Jump of pure Gold as It was taken out of the Mine, as broad as my hand A fair piece of Cold Ore, wherein the pure Gold Jhooteth upon a white Stone Divers great Bafons oiGold and Coral.
#
In the twelfth,
-r«rM of 7;//^/^, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Gramtes. Cups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapts Nephrittcus : and a great one of an Amethyfi. * *
Tn the thirteenth,
A large high refel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well made o« of precious Stones. A Cup of an Hungarian Diamond. A piece of ^w^er- grtece as big as a mans head, lent from the Grand Seignwr. A no- bJc Jajpis-Jione. A large Stone of ^^^/e on the outfide, and a bed of l^vg^ Amethyjls naturally m it in the middle, which is an extraordina- ry and plealant Rarety.
Da
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A Defcription of Vienna.
In tlie reit,
^Ws .4™x, wcglnng tu o thouland mo hundred D.7,sJ"'f'''' land pounds &5/,/*. AC.;, uut <,f iV/.;„,/, Z,wT F ™ "T" Rare A/.^,^ ,„ ,>^w. &«*„ and other ..,.r,.', o^of a verwl";
fir "t 'r'" r*™- '^ '^'^ «->•■ "™' ij"" or™"/cd L^ kI, ;
«-/// the .Second ot i>,„, in D,.,m,.W Armour retin--»« , ° />-a«« oi an ././ AU, courting aj»^ r.™, Zh ^I^:!:: " ""'
ArHum Annulum nk grflato.
A Knife f\v^illcnvcd by a Peafant near /'r.g«.,which was nine months inh.s^A.;^../. and afely cut out 160.. The like hapoeid aifo o .
perfon in /^;YV"^/^"'^^^'^ ^--^ ^^^•^•^'" hath writTn a p^,'iV; 7>.<^ under this T.tl.^De Cultn.oro PruJ/iaco. A fair Cru^l o7.;J
tlr ' f T "'''^' "^ ^''''''^'"^•- The King ofSu^eden. G.^az^ i <Uphus s /?«/.... m which he was k,!Ied at the Battel .klfiZ tJ
ly s Sword. An An^l mi vary with Hair and Clothes c.f /-^/.^'i^^, of 0./^, AneatC..c.//vof^Wby ^/^...... Z?,,,, rvvovtyhr"!
Looking-gL^cs with the />.«;„ of Silver. All the (7./../, written a'd painted Many hra'/e ^/./«.V and Pithres every where The / W o Carks the hrft King of England, in ./... 2.^}^ A /W/f^of /«,^.. over which a a.y.. The f^e.d oiHz. raknus BUhopo Trl ers The Piaur.oi St. Cahenne oi Sienna, drawn by 6V.. W Kin of f./.W. A Pidure of the Emperor as he gives^^,.^^"; to K looked upon through a little round hole. 4 nc^xtTallTT/j^ made by the prefent Emprefs Dowager £W A AWo ouf^^r^-^ .«. S O-./. almoft a toot long ,• our Saviours Blood; and two /W of his Cron,n, the one whiter than the other. Pnejh Gar^^ts com' ed all over with large /'.../. Tlie ,reat and high efteemed tte r#, between three and iour fpans Diameter with^XRIsS natS n It. Unto uji.ch one applied that of St. Luke, Dico vohl "Z ? li tacuerint, Upides cb.mahu,t. ^ ^' ^'^'^
^ Unto which magniHcent Rareties there is one more added, t!ie noble CW of /'..../ ot e,ght yards long taken trom the (;..#7..l ^ .^d e late Hungananwzx ,z^ I underftand (ince my Return
went unto divers noted Places about Fienna: I walked unto the Hill of Pie„na, two £.g/./^ m.l^s diftant from the Town, goin. uMI
ty, and the Compagnw about it, together with the high Mountains in
Steir-
14^
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^m .
150
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ilc
*
A Defcriptiofi cf Vienna.
"sHnm^rk covered witirSnow : and in my return ftw the Palace of the Emprefs Dowager without the Town, called la Fa-jon^a, and palled by the Convent of the /'j«//«/.
About two Englijl miles Eaftward from Vienna, tliere is a very no- ble Garden-place belonging to the Emperor, built by Roddphu* the Se- cond which hath been formerly well furniflied, and provided with Plant's but now fcems to be negleded, and fomewhat ruinous. It confifts of an inward and an outward fquare Garden : The mward is two hundred ordmary paces fquare, about the lame bignefs with the Place Ro) al at fans : It hath a rortko or CioysJt^r, fupported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each fide, and is covered with Copper ; as are alfo the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold Behdes this, there is an handfom row of Buildings well feated,called l^ewg.iban\ in which at prefent are many wild Beall-s kept. Lions and Tigres breed here, and have young ones. ..ome fay this was the place ot Solyman the Magnificent's Tent when he hefieged Vienna. But it is rather the FitTure of his Pavilion which was placed on the other fide of the City.
'rherc is alfo, about two or three miles from Vienna, a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols^ much frequented, efpecially in Lent, divers carry ipf^ CrofTes very heavy all the way upon their Ihoulders. There is here a little Houfe built exadlv after that of the Sepulchre at Jerw falem ■ and alfo a handfom Copy of the Pidure of our Saviour and the Virgin Alary, with their exacft heights. That of our Saviour is about two yards high ; that of the blefled Virgin three or four fingers breadth lower : Thefe are taken from the Original in St. Joh't de Lateran at Rome. Hither the Emprefs defired to go one morning from her own Palace on Foot, out of Devotion, which llie performed, though with a great deal of difficulty, Ihe being not ufed to walk, and the way was duftv. The Emperor accompanied her and all the Court followed on. foor^ which made a handlomc fliew.
Nearer unto Vienna there is alfo a remarkable place for Devotion, called Itzing : and in the way from Vienna unto it, the twelve Stati- ons of the Crofs are marked out in imitation of what is obferved near Jerufalem, in the Via Crucis, or Dolorofa, in our Saviour's proceeding from the City unto Mount Cahary ; the the Figures thereof are print- ed, and the feveral paces between every Station fet down. The Empe- ror hath a handfom Park near Vienna, called the Brater, wherein I beheld the effeds of the great Lightning and Thunder which happen- ed three days before, upon many great Trees which were torn, fplit, or twilled. There is a Houfe of Pleafure in it, where among other things, I could not but take notice of a Mufical Inftrument which I had not feen before, a Seat or Cbejldrum ; it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trum- pet, but founds like a Kettle-drum.
I went alfo unto Laxamhurg, whither the Emperor often retires; he hath a Houfe in this place, but it is old, and not large. There is alfo a Houfe of Pleafure in the Mote, into which there is no other paf- fage but through a higli Cor^idore. T.ie Caftle is commodioufly feat- ed for the Emperors recreation ; and there is an eight-liquare Houfe in the Marfl}, from which the Nobility and the Emprefs Dowager fome- times ufed to fhoot, flie being very expert therein Over the Gate of the Emperors Houfe hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no better account, than they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of
\
A Defcription of Vienna.
a heathen maid. They feemcd to me to be Bones of an Elephant But many things that are old or oblcure, they call, in this Country, Hea- then .• as Roman Coyns, they call Heathen money. And the Peafints brouglit me, in a place which had been formerly an old Roman Station part of the bit of a Bridle digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key.
From hence I went unto Mamerfrlorff, fcated not far from the River Leyta, where there is a natural hot A'ur/^, called the WiUlelath ■ it ari- les under a Church, the Church being built over the Spring-head The water of it is but Lukc-warm,and therclore when they de/ire it
u "^c' ^^^^' ^^^^ ^^' ^"'^ '" ^^^'^^ '" Tubs m a large room From that Subltancc which fticks to the fides of the Coppers in the boy 1- mg of It, they judge it to be impregnated with Sulpbur, Salt- peter and Chalk The water colours the itones.and makes them lo(^k,whcn wet hkQhmlu'quoil s. And the vapour of the Bath hanging upon the Mofs on tie lidcs, gives it an Amber or Gold colour. Tlie l-hyficians of f^ien>iu have given a good aecounr concerning the ufe of'thcle Baths m High-utch. Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone out of which a great part o^ Vienna is built. The Stones are large and thev cut, and Iquare them at the Quarry.
From hence I proceeded to the New/idler-fea or Lake, fo call«d from Newjtdle, which is a Town leated upon the Northern part oi' it con- filting of one ftrect and fome back-houfes, and a fmall, Iquare. old Caftle upon a Hill, from whence f had a good profpedl: over tiie Lake. It is about three German miles broad, and ieven miles long. Tlie faircft Lake in thefe parts affording plenty of Fifh ; encompalFed and thickly let about with (mall Towns and Villages; and hath no River atleait not confiderable, running into or out ot it. A little way from the Gate oiNew/idlc they dig out a black cartli, out of which thev make Salt- peter. In this Journey, not far from inmburg, we pafll^d bv a place called Rauckward, which, though it feems not high, lc\)ks over a great part of Aujhja,3.n^ as far as Bnn.thc fecond City o^ Mor.ivia a pare aho of the Kingdom ol Bohem/a,^ni\ a part of the Kingdom of //^« ar a I went afterwards four Englilh miles up the Stream of the Uambe, to fee a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Altenburg. The beds', rows or cafes of the Stones lie not horizontally, but rather elevated North- ward, about the heiglitof the Angle forty, yet are not always fo re- gularly placed, but rather follow the fliape of the Hill, and according to that are differently fituated. Here I alfo obferved a Subilance be- tween a Clay and a ftone called Lelerjhin, or Liver (I one ; and upon many ot thefe Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves, though not fo deep or neat as upon the Atones by Florence ; yet very pivttily marked, and often witli broader Leaves,than I had elfewhere obfer\ ed. I pafled forward to Clojler-Neuburi, a Town moft of it belonging to that notable rich Monallery fcated here, tbunded by St. Leopoldus Marquels of Anjlria, and fince much enriched by fucceedin^f Dona- tions. °
Matthaus Merian hath a good cut of the Prolped of tlie Danube hereabouts, and in what manner it pafles downwards between the two great Hills of Kalenberg and Eifnierg. Upon one Peaii of Kalen- bregliMt divers CamalduL-nJet, of an Order the moil levere ofany,Ii- ving moft upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermiteu Near
their
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A Dejcription of Vienna.
their Cells chcy liad paved the p/ound with thole Stones I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the Shapes of Trees and
Plants
After an open Autumn there followed a Iharp Winter at FJenna^ in the months of Z^^r^w/fr and Janiur^. The branches of the Panule v\ ere foon frozen over. The main Stream, by rca(bn of its fuift Cur- rent, held out longer, but was afterwards alfo frozen. Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of Battels which have been f ught upon this River frozen ; but I could not make any regular Oblervation thereof This hard weather, the ground being covered with Snow, afi[()rded handfom Re- creations unto men, and fome unto the Ladies, in running Courfes in handfom Sleds and Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were w-ell contrived in the Ihape of Griffins^ Tigers^ Sxvans^ Scallop Shells^ Dol- phim^ Pe-icocks^ and the like Curiofities, carved, painted, and gilded. The Lady fits in onecf thefe. richly habited in Velvet,lined with rich Furrs, fet off with Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables, The bled is draw n by a Horfe, drelled up with Feathers ofail colours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments : one or more Pages ride by on Horfe- back with Torches in their hands. And after this manner they per- form their Courfe upon the frozen Snow about the ftreets o\ P'lcmia^ in the night, wath good fpeed one after another. A Gentleman fits behind the Lady and guides the Horle. But the Froft breaking up put an end to thefe Recreations. The Froft began and ended here the fame day that it began and ended in Engla^jd.
The Feftivity of Chrijimas was oblerved much after the fame Man- ner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities, as in Italy. On CkriHmas-day the Emperor dined publickly, attended with many Nobles and great Per- Ibns, and three remarkable low Dwarfs. Upon St. Stephens day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stepken^ind went up to the Altar,kneeled, and kiiled the Flate whereon the HoHia had lain, ht the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide^ the old cuftom of choofirg King and Queen was ob- ferved at Court. Count Le/Zy happened to be King, the Emperor laid the Cloth, and the Emprefs filled cut Wine, together with other old Cufloms, Fetched perhaps in part from ancienter times, Saturnu'ium diehus^ mos Romanis^pr(chere jervis convivium^c ut ipji ojficia ferv:rum oh i rent.
Before Chrijimas there W'as extraordinarv mirth and jollity at the Court upon occafion of a Marriage : For Count Serau^ Governor of Gratz in Styria, married a natural: Daughter of Philip the Fourth, King of 6'/'£7/X which was cbferved with many noble Solemnities and Bra- veries. And the Nobility and Ladies were fo fubftantially fp'endid.that I was much furprizcd thereat.
This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Dran^, who was Colonel of the Forces in Fienna^ and who had one of the no- blefl: Houfcs in the City ; his Corps was brought out oi Italy ^ and in- terred in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a very fair Altar ; there w^as raifed for him a Caflrum Doloris^ handfomly contrived •x^^i\ fet round with white Wax Torches and Candles.
While I was in P^tenm, the Emprefs Margarita was delivered of a D:tughter, which wasChriftned by the wzvsx^ di Maria^ Antontm^ Joje-
pka,
A Ifefcripion of V'icnna.
Jo(epha,Rened/cLi,Rolalia,Petrone/ia, but Ihe lived not many montJis. When the Emprefs came abroad, Ihe brought the Child to the -iu^^i^ Itines Church, where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa^ the Pope's Nuncio, recei- ved it, bltlfed ir, and laid it upon riie Altar.
During my ftav here, the Eledtion was in rendincfs for a King o{ Pa* land, alter the voluntary reflgnation of that Crown by King Lafmir -, and Couriers often palFcd between that Country and this. There were Competitors the Czar o^ Mnjco-jy'^ Son, the Duke o[' Ken/urg^ and the Prince of Lorrain, The French moved adhvely for the Duke oi New- burg, the Emperor for t!:c Prince o{ Lorrajn, who was then at I'i ma^ in great taycur with the Emperor, w ho greatly promoted his intcrcft ; a Perfon of great efteem, nnd who it General lidtmir-ki had been li- ving, who was his intimate Friend, in all probability might have ob- tained the Crow n ; and thereupon it was conceived that he flK;uld have married the Emipcror's Sillcr.But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country, who was no Competitor, Michael Vi'ijmnvitik? de- cealed, who alio married the Sifter of the Emperor.
When I was here, there were many Amba/fadours ofNorc, DmBal- thafar de la Caeva^ Marquifs of MuLgon^ and Erotl:cr to the Viceroy of Naples, was Amballador for Spain. Cardinal Carlo Carafa \\ as tl e Pope's Nuncio. The P'^enetiai Amballador Extraordinary, folhcitcd for alliftance for OW/./, and he obtained the Regiment oi' Porcja under Marquis Pio. Count Sanches the younger, wlio was Governor oi Leo- p ldjtadt,^r\(\xr\2m noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for rliat Expedition.The T/^r^jgave allurancc of thc^G>-.Wi'''/':;;f/r;r's intenti- on to maintain the Peace niviolably ; and requeftcd the fempcrnr not to allift. the Fenttians^ox Trui'i\hanfans^ nor to prom.otc, but rather hin ier, the Election of the Emperor c^WM'^rcovys Son to the Crown of Poland. The liiihop of Eeziers^ fent by tVio. King of Fra>:ce to tlie E- ledtion ol'the Kingof Pa/jW, came nor hirlier, but paded through A7-/- re^ilfrg, where I lodged at the lame Inn : Thev i^'cre generally herea- giinft the French Intereft, and fo wqv^ a grear p^.rt oi the Polilh No- bility. All Amballatlor came alfo froni tiie Cham cfYartary^ to ccn- rtrm a I'eace, and nfCord mutal Adiftancc upon cccafion. Gha uagi A a was rh-e Ambari:idor,who brought a Prclenr 0»f the l-;eft Tartar fin Hortes> which are of high elteem tor fwtftriffs, hanilnels, boldncfs in pnihng *"rozen Rix^ers, and raking and fwimming over great Streams. Me was difmifTed with noble Prelents of Plate. T!te Emperor prclcnt- ed the Chaw of Tartary with a fair Silver Bafon and Ewer, and a curi- ous Warch ; and lent Prefents Uiito the Chammine !iis Wife ; and aho to his Sifter and four !3ror!iers. H.s FollrAvers were ftout men, of good ftature. coarl Complexions, w earing long furr'd Vcfts and Cal- packs, or furrVl Caps. Some oi them had l.her'Rrng^^ with t!ie fame Signature^ of the luikiih Seais.Tliey roeik mucji Tabaco in very lor^g Pipes.Their Tabaco i*^ not in Rohs.but in Leaves.^: dry.T!iey went about wandring antl gazing ar moft things, as Churches, Hcjufes, Sliops : And took much delii;i;t ro IxMn the F.rr, where they would take m.uch notice ot'frm 11 trifles Vet tiiefearetlre m'm that make luchfidln- curfions into the Eifhrp [rirrs of£T'^.%and c:irrving away fo manv thoutands, It 11 rhem r^ i^^j /"^v^fr^nhd fa repair the detect of People in Tur-y. And now afk*r rlie CrTifrmnrion ot' men in Cofiii ant motile ^ and the Count) v about by hir Ptegue are like to Icaiftue in tlii^
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A Vefcription of Vienna.
'»/
TradcThopIng to find better Markets lor their Plaoiaries and Dcpretla-
tlon
Tirrc arc divers Greeks, w ho trade to r/r;/».r, and many live in the town amoncT wl.ich 1 met with t!iree conlidcrable pcrfons, (."^ne a crave Abbot, wlio was forced from b.is Convent b}- the /////■, upon lul- pic'on that he correlpcnded with thole of Cuir/u. Anothcr,who went by tile name ol Cvtiit.intnnis Catjcuzenos, and was of the Blood Royal o{i\\Q C at acuzeni. "The tlurd was 'jcram.n^i Greek Priefl, who had travelled throufr,h Italy and Ircuice into E*!^Jun/i, and Irom thence throu"h the Lon-CoHHtnes and Geima»\ to/ /f'wj, and intended lor CoMJUntinople. He came into EwJm^ to enquire after a young man who was in a Ship which was firlt taken b\ an Algenne, and altcr- wards by an E>igli!h man of war in the Levant. He was very kindly uled m 'En4an(i,^n^ particularly at Cam! ridge. He did a great deal cf honour at Fienna, unto the Ert^jijl Nation, declaring that they were the mod civil, generous, and learned p.oplc he had met with in all his Travels, and that he no where found fo many who could fpeak or un- dtifland Greek, or who gave him fo good Intisfadtion in all parts of Knowledge : And as a teftimony of his refped and gratitude, requell- cd me to cnclole a Greek Letter unto Dr. Eicrf'.n, now Lord Bifliop of Cheiter, and Dr. Burrow Mailer of Irnuty LoHege in Camhrul^e.
M ft men live here plentifully, there being abundance ofall provi- fion. Ttiey have great quantity of Corn, which upon Scarcity, by the help ot the Damde, might be brought to them from remoter parts. The Country aflcrds, luch plenty of wine, that they fend a confidera- ble quantity up the River. They iiave alfo rich wines out iiUhmiary and Itah, and fuch variety, that there are more than thirty feveral fortix of Wine to be fold in fienna. They arc not alfo without good Beer. Halsiadr in Aujlrh affords theiii Salt, where they make it by letting in water into the holiow parts of a Mountain,wlierc it drinks in the Salt of the Eari^h, and is afterwards let out and boiled up. This affords great profit to the "Emperor, and therefore the Hun- garian isalt is not permitted to be brought higher than Ercjlurg. The> have alio plenty of Sheep and Oxen ; but for Oxen at prclent they are alfo fupplied from Hnngary, \\or only from the Countries ia the Emperors Dominions, but from the Turkifli parts, by permilliori of the Cruuel Seignior ; and they arc brought hither by the Eaftcrn Com- pany of I'lenna. They eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is deli- cious, like that of Venfion with us. They want not Hares, Rabbets, Partridges, Pheafants. A Foul called Ilajenhemlal, or Gallina Corylo- rurn, is much ellecmcd by them, which made me the more wonder to meet with foine odd diflies at their Tables ; as Guiny-F/gs^ divers ioxtsoi Snails, znA. Tort o/fes.
The Damhe, and many Rivers which run into it, aflord them plen- ty of Fifli, extraordinary C^r/f, Trout s. Tenches^}' ikes. Eels, feveral lortsof X^/w/rfyx, and many fiflies finely coloured; the white Filh, Crevijes very large ; the beft come out of the River Swechet, not lar from l^'iema. Tiiey have alfo that Sublfantial large fifli, called Schei' Aen, or Silurus Gejnert, larger than Pike, Salmon, or any of our River Fiflies ; but the great Fifnes called JJaujom, or HufoHes, in Johnjlonus^ for largenefs exceed all others ; fome being twenty foot long. Some tinak tius to be the fame Fiflj wliich /Elian names ArhacetHs, and
f peaks
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A Defcription of Vienna.
155
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fpeaks largely of the fiihing for them in Hier, I was at the fiihing places for Haufom in Schut Ifland, between Prejhurg and Komaru^ for they come not ufually higher, efpecially in Ihoais ; and it is much that they come fo high, for they are conceived to come out of the Euxme-fea^ and fo up the ftream. They eat them both freih and fait-* ed ; they tafte moft like Sturgeon, It is a Cartilagineous Filh, confin- ing of griflles , and they liave a hollow nervous chord all down the back, which being dried fervcs for a whip. When they fiih for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet,and know where they go by the moving of the water. From Femce tliey are lupplicd with Oyfters,with fait Sturgeon^ and fometimes with red Herrings^ and great variety of other Fiihes pickled up : as alio with Oranges^ Limom^ and other Fruits. Obferving much freedom, mufick, and jollity in the City. I won- dered how they could content themfelves without Plays, lor there were few while I was there, till the Players came hither out di Saxony ^zn^ a- ded here for a time. The Jefuites would fometimes entertain the Emperor and Einprefs with a Comedy at their CoIIe^je ^ and I had once the favour to be at one when they were prefenr.
But they have Dancing and Fencing often, and every Holy-day zH^ ter dinner, the people flock to fome Inns where there is Dancing in the inward Rooms, and Fencing and Playing oi Prizes upon a Stage in the Yard ; and at the Windows, or from the Galleries, they behold the Fencers playing at feveral Weapons \ and commonly pafs the reft of the day in deUghts and merry Company.
In Treafon and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand of the Ma- lefadlor, and his Head immediately after. I faw a Woman beheaded fitting in a Chair, the Executioner fir iking off her Head with a Fore- blow, flie behaved her felf well, and was accompanied unto the Mar- ket place by the Confraternity of the Dead^ who have a charitable care of fuch Perfons, and are not of any Religious Order, but Lay-meyi ; among whom alfo in this place tliere are many Fraternities and Orders , as of theiyi?/y ^/rg/n, of the /yo/y Cra/i.and others. Another perfon alfo executed after the fame manner ; as foon as his head tell to the ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man run fpeedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it witii the Blood, yet fpouting out of his Neck, he prcfcntly drank it off^ and ran away j and this he did as a Remedy againll the Fallmg-Sicknefs, I have read of fome who have approved the fame Medicine ; and heard of others who have done the like in Germany. And Celjus takes notice, that in his time fome Epilcptical perfons did drink the Blood of the Gladiatours, But many Phyficians have, in all times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I Hay afterwards fo long as to know the efled: thercof,as to the intended cure. But mofl men looked upon it as of great uncertainty : and of all men the Jews, who fufier no Blood to come into their Lips, muft moft diflike it.
At Pnjhurg they have a flrange uay of Execution, ftilt ufed at Metz^ and fome other places, by a Maid, or Engine like a Maid finely drtfled up with her hands before her. The Malefador lalutes her firft, and then retires. But at his fecond falute foe opens her hands and cuts his Heart in funder.
Though tlie Winter was Iharp, yet the advantage of Stoves, and ly- ing between two Feather-beds made it tolerable : For they uic Stoves
X z here
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A Defcription of Vienna.
m
here as in other parts of Germany^ where they lodge and eat in Sto\'es ; and great Perlons have Stoves m the Church, or fuch as look into the Church. There are Stoves alfo in the publick Schools wliere Lcdlures are read. And this way of lying between two Feather-beds, with a neat laced iheet fpread over, is more convenient in a cold Country, than moft othors they make ule of. For in the common Inns in Ger^ many they generally flcep upon Straw, and alfo in Hungary almofl eve- ry where ; and more Eallerly upon the ground, Ipreading a Carpet or Saddle-cloth under them : and more Northerly they content them- felves with the Skins of Beafts, Bears^ Elks^ or the like ; upon which they flecp in the night. Thofe that fleep lovvcft are cooleft in a Stove ; thofe that lie upon Tables, Benches, or higher, are more expofcd to the hcat.TheCitizens oiFien^a arc well attired,and ule Furs very much The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet, lined or faced therewith. The Place fccmcd to be healthful ; but they fpeak much of the CoUca Anstnaca^zs an Endemical and Local Difeafe,very hardly yielding unto good Medicines. They fpeak good German at the Court and in the Ci- ty ; but theCommon & Country people feemed to fpeak grumbfin<^Iv, and tcfides their accent, have divers words different from other parts.
They have a Cuftom upon St^Nkholas-day to putfome fmall Gilt into the Childrens Ihooes ; among other things tlicy put in Medals and Dol- lars made of paper and flour,gilded and filvered over, yet fcarce worth a penny. They lell Trochies or laiUts in the markets, made of the pulp of the Fruit oi Hip-hriar, made Iharp with Spint of Sulphur^ very refrefhing. Some carry about them a Thunder-tloiie as a defence againft Thunder : and they rub their Childrens Gums with a Wolfs tuoth inflead ot CoraL
When I WIS at Venice^ in the time of the Carnrual^ I obferved many Recreations and Shews, as Rope-dancing, Hying down the Rope, cur- ing oti Bulls-necks with Swords,and many other. But atFienffj a nota- ble trick which I law there, pleafed me much; A man of a middle Sta- ture laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil \\ as placed upon his Breaft, as much as two men could well Hft, then two other men with great Hammers laid on, until they had given almoll: an hurr dred blows, and cut in funder a great Horfhooe of iron, about half an inch thick. ^
Here is no Chriilian Religion publickly permitted but the Ro- njan^ and therefore thofe of the ProteJ}an\ and ReformeA ReL<T}onzrt famtorefcrt to Prejhurg^ Forty miles off for which they hav'e Ibme convenience by the Danube , and a Coach which goes every day. In the time of Maximilian the Second, they were permitted the Ex- ercife of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Crofs, in the C;i- ty o{ Vienncu But afterwards were prohibited by Rodolphus the Se- cond. The Emperor Matthias gave them pcrmillion to meet at Her- naL^ a little more than an Englijh mile from Vienna ; and gave leave to their Mimjlers to come into the City, and there to chrijlr:n^ mar- ry,haptize^znd vifit the fick.From which time they encrealed very much, till t er (I inand ih.^ Second, returning from the Battel of Frague^ ba- nilhed their Minister from Vienna^ and Arnolds, ; lent the freyherr Jorger, to whom the Caftle of Arnolds belonged, Priloner unto Lintz ; and never gave over till he had taken away their Privileges and Free- dom ot meeting pubUckly in any part oi lower Aujlruu
But
t t
A Defcription 0/ Vienna
157
But here are no Imall number vX'jcks, who ha\T a diftind Habita- tion alligncd them o\ er the Water. T!iey have alfo a Street alJou cj them in the City for the day time, but they muft all depart at nisiht be- yond the River into the Suburbs.
They are much dillafted by the Citizens and Tradefincn and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I was at rnnna there was a quarrel between them to an higli degree. For the Scholars alfaulted rhe Jem Town, beat, wounded, and threw divers of tlicm into the Ri- ver. Divers Scholars were wounded, feme killed, ajid alfo lome Soul- diers, who were commanded cut to compofe the Fray .• and the Tews Town was f^uarded many days by the Sonldiers of the City This begot fuch ill Blood, and Complaints, that a good numbe'rof the Jem were to be baniihed at a certain day. The Jem, to ingratiate with the Emprefs, then with Child, prefcnted her with a noble .SV/id-r Cradle^m. ihe would not receive it; and there was great danger of the general banilhmenr of them when I Idi: thatCity,which was aftcruardi effcdred, they being feverely prohibited from living, not only at Vien- na^ but in any part ot Aiijhta^ where there were formerly whole Vil- lages of them, fo as they were forced to betake themlelvcs into the Do- minions ot the THrk,Mmo Fenke^mto Poland o^nd Bohemia. They being not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries o{ flimaary {^hsA to the Emperor, Styria, or Cannthh. But manv of them went to Budu and were befiegedthere in the year i684.and becoming oblUnate haters of the Germans.xhcy affifted the Turks with their Purlcs and with v\ hat slfe they were able to maintain rhe Town agaiqft the Imperial Forces
I muft confefs they feemed ufeful to /7e;;;M tor ready accommodati- on of any thing, either by fale or exchange, but the people looked with an ill eye upon them, as taking away much of tlieir Trade and Employment. They alfo looked upon them as ufelefs to them in war for the defence ot the place as Souldicrs ; and were not without (bmc
, . .. ' . „ . -----^^ .umiuiin^, ajju ac-
commodating ot their Companies. And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews Houfe,amongft other Difccurfe, I asked th-^ Jew concerning the ten Jrihes, and where they were .^ He laid they were ^ar off in Afia, h yond a great Lake which was continually Jlarmy^ un I fcarce palfalle, hut upon their Sahliath-day^ upon which days the 'jews do not wdlin<ily travel.
I have ieen their Circumcifion at Ro^r.e, Padua, and other part?. Their Fhyficians, ordinarily profefs great skill in Z/rnies ; and rhe com- mon peopl- retort unto them rather than unto Christians, and arc fo credulous, and have fuch an opinion of them, that they m.ight be made to believe they have tome old Receipts of King Solomon.
There are many Jews in ft ay, yet they teem to me to be in greater numbers in Germany. In Amsterdam they are alio grown very nu- merous. At Franckjitrt they told me there were feven thoufand of them, which teemed tcarce credible. At Colen they are in great num- bers : at Hamburg not a tew. But the greatetfl number lurely is in
Prairue.
Though they be pe"V.mitted in many Countries, vet divers Chriflian Princes and States have alligned them fome mark m their Habits^
to
•
^'jj
^■sn^'
-ti.^. ■/. "-.'si^l ■"'
^ :.
15S
A Defcription of Vienna.
to dillinguHh them. In Avignon their Hats arcye/low. In Italy their //ats are covered over with faff ate. In Germany they wear Ruffs and Goxcns with great Capes. In Holland I obferved no diftindtion. But the Jews there, moll of them having come out of Portuial^ there may be fome fufpicion of them from their complexion.
Laflly, when I confider the old ftrength of Vienna, confiding in an old u>j//and a deep D/7t-/.', I cannot much wonder that Matthias Cor-jinus, King of Hungary^ took this City. And I muft afcribe it, under God, unto the fingular valour and rcfolution of the Defendants, that Solyman the Magnificent, with two hundred thoufand men, was not able to take it, and though he made large breaches, could never enter it, but loft fome thoufands at an AlFaulr, and departed at lafl with the lofs of a great part of his Army. But this place is now in a far better condition ftrongly fortified , and able to refift the greateft Forces of Turky. The hufes are cleared from the wall ; and yet for better fecurity, when I was there, Count Souches advifed the Emperor to pull down part of the Suturk upon the other fide of the neareft l)ranch of the Danuh, left the Turks might take advantage to play up- on the two Eailions on that fide.
It would be a fad lofs for Cknjlendom, if this place were in the hands of the 7«r/(-; and no man knows where he would reft. If he fliould begin with this place, and take it, the ftrong holds oi Rab, Ko- />;j/j,and LeopoUila4t would want their fupport,and foon fall into his Pofreffion J and if he were Lord oiAujinafi great part o{ Germany would lie bare unto him : and probably it would not be long before he vifi- ted Italy, into which Country he would then find many wavs. Yet xhis hath fincc been attempted, with great force, and violence ; when in the year one thoufand fix hundred and eighty three.The Grand Seig. nior fent Kara Mnflapha Bafa, with an army of an hundred and four- fcore thoufand men into Aujlna, who befieged, afTaulted, and ftor- med tins place for two months together, till fuch time as the Chrifti- an Army came dou n and relieved it. For the Garrilon under the Command ot Count Stahremherg having behaved thcmfelvcs moft cou- rageoudy, and dayly Ihown much valour and Bravery, in luch Ibrt that before the Seventh of September they had deftroyed fifty thou- land of the Turks ; The King of Poland, the Eledor of Saxony, the tledtor ot B.vana, came five days after, all at the head of their own forces. The Duke of LouiJn:-, the Duke oi'SaxenLawenbKrg, the two Marquifles of Baden, the Prmcc de Cray, and the Emperors Generals, and Colonels, Caprara, LeJIye, Rahhata, Dunwald, Pafy, Baron Mercy, Hahveil, Diepe^Hhal, and others. And thus united, totally routed the Z«i//*army,and made the Grand Fizier, Kara Mu/fapha,Ry before them and leave all Iiis provifioi, Ammunition and Riches behind him, having nothing left him, but a fad repentance for his raih attempt and time to confider how little he u as like to be beholden to thofe who employed him, wilhing to himfelf, no doubt, by this time that the Ottoman family had never come to thisgreatnefs as to be able to com- mand him, and fo many thouland more to run their heads, to no purpofe, againft the ftrong walls o^Beatch. And would then have been well latished, that old Ertrgrul, and Dun/er had all along continued Miepherds in the Eaft. Like many of thir family before ihem ra- ther than ever to have attempted to march Weft-ward, or that Baja-
* . .
A Defcripricn c/ Vienna.
^5?
zefs hawk had never flown crofs the HclJeJpo>/t, to dilcovev Ccuntncs that muft tlius prove burial places to the M^J/^/mm. Ho\ve\er to Beli^r.ule he was tbrccd to fly, and there, for all his pain^and labour, dye by the lofs of his head, which he yielded qidetly to an Jq^ of the Jjn/Jjr/es^ fent on purpofe to receive it. Only with this innma- tion,Tbiat tlie Si^lt^?i had promifed him otherwife. Thole at rienna^ in the mean time, giving God thanks, rejoycing, triumphing, and coyning Medals in memor\' of their deliverance, two of which, of Gold, I have here inlerted.
The firft hath on the obverfe the head of the prcfent Emperor Lec- pnUui encompalFcd and lupported with arms,and Trophies ; with this Inlcription ■
Imp. Cxjlir, Leopold . t. F^ F, Auguf P. P. Impcrator Cccjar Ltvpoldtu Pr}mm Puis Fxlfx Augujfus Pater Patrhc.
And on the rcverfc an Arm coming out of a Cloud, over the City of r/^«;;«', which fupports the Imperial Crown, Sword, Scepctr, and Globe with this Inlcription ^
Confilio et ImhiHrta, \
'' •
The ScCv^nd Medal hath high Dutch Infcriptions. On the obverfe che S'ji^^ of Vknm^ with this about it ;
This is the Finger of Cod. i
And en the rcverfc this Infcription ;
The Turk} fh pride which Hreightned Vienna^ from the fourteenth of July, to the twelfth of Si^ipti^mhtTj 1685. was that Jay totally defiroy^^ ed hy the hand of the Lord
To thefe, I have alfo added a noble Gold Medal of the Emperor Ferdinand the fecond. Thefe are all delineated bigger than they real- ly are, that tliey migh.t appear the more plainly ; yet this I::ft weighs' above fixtcen GumncySy and is no ordinary Piece,
t
w
% .' .,"
I'SS
i6o
A Jouvjiey from Vienna to Hamburg.
4
t^yncydfurg.
A
JOURNEY
FROM
VIENNA
I N
AUSTRIA
i A M B U R G.
Aking a farcwel of the Imperial City of l^ienna^ I or- dered my J urney for Frjigue in Bokemu^ which is ulually fix d^ys Journey by Coach in the Summer and eight in chc Winter, I went over the great Bridge of/'/ftf;?j,upon the large Stream ohh^Danuhe^ palling by the ChjppeloiSt, Bridget, oi an eight' (quare Figure. Tliis Bridge is a very great and ma% work lupported by many high Trees dindTimkr^ and hath between two and three tliouland trees laid upon it croIs,or fide by fide,from one fide of the Bridge to the other, tor the palfage over it after the German manner of making Bridges. At Ratuhone there is' a handlbme Stone- ■ bridge over the Danube^ nd between that place and Vienm, divers of Wacd'^xit from Fienna to Belgrade I obfervcd none but what were made with Boats*
Having pafll'd the River^ I entred into the TranfDanuhian Aujiria^ or that part of Aulhia which lies between the Danube ^n^ the Rh ver Theya, and €amc unto Comenburg, a pretty Town, about uhich place the Emperor u:)ften hunts; it is near the HAl Bifneberg^ which is oppofite unto Kalenberg, The Sweden advanced tar when they took tins place in the laft wars, and held it fo well, that they were not eafily forced out of it. From thence I came to Stockerau^ near the m ^uch of the River AWv, where it runs into the Da ube, A place much noted tor the death ot ^i. Colman, a Scotch Sai. t, highly honour- ed in tlKle parts. \xim thence to Gunterldorjf\ fo to Colnedorffox KoU d-.rij\ which although It be on tlic South of the River Ti.eya^ is ac- counted the foil ydi^^gc oi Moraz'iazniii then came unto Znaim.
In
y.
A
In all this part of W/(/?r/.7, which extends a great length on the N;)rth I'lcle of the Damde, conceived to have been ancient!)- inhabited by the Marcvr^um/i and Cifjrt^,tl-.crc arc Icu' or no Tutv>js q\ ii>ittiiHit\\ Urqeyie'i's^ or mti: ; tor the I'omuns made their Stations and Colonies upon the South.- fide of the Dunuhe ; but the Country is lull of Vil- , Ini^es, and populous. One of tlie chiefcll Towns is Cremhs, whicli lome call Cremona ^ajirhe, wliich I law as 1 caoTe down tlie Damk. A great part of this Country was notably harraired and plundered by the Swedes. Tlic Soyl is Iigiit and eafie to be plouglied.
Z^wm is a handiomc place, w itii many Tainte J Houles in it, and ac- ^"•«>"- Gounted the fourth ch'vtiTant in Mahren.ov Moravia; (Olmutz,BiHft^ and IgUv being the other three) this place is famous tor the death of tlie*Eraperor 5.;5//«;<^/ It is Hated by tlie River Z/.ryj, which divides Moravia from Aajtru and running at laft into tiie River ALiick., affords accommodation of paiLgc into the Damle. ^
From tlience w e palled by Vlverskuke-', Fauutz, and Moravian jj^^^^^
Badiveilp, to Zimiiuv.v, and by Byrmfz came to Z^/./.or I^Liu, upon the
River I<ila, winch at laft runs into the great River MarcK^ a very plca-
lant place, leated upon a Hill, on the frontiers of Bohemia. It is
well torcified a la wcdcrna, upon one fide, and hath one ot the largcft
Fiazzai that I have icen.
yf-/^;A-jw'j, is a pleafant and fruitful Country afi)rdlng plenty oFne-
ccflaries for life ; t!ie people are plain dealing, ftout, and make ,good Souldiers. It is commodlouHy turnilhcd with Rivtrs, the grcateil: w hereof is tiie ^/:;/d or J/^/a-, which arifeg in the Northern part thereof, runs quite through the CountiA', and enters the D^nax by Teb-n not far from Frefouig. The other confiderable Streams are the T>:eya or Thaija, the Sn-arta, the Scl.witta,Vi\\ich. run into tlie Marck. In the laft Jurk/lh wars tiie Tartan having pafTcd the Wag in Huy,g.'.* ria, made incurfions into Moravia, aud earned a\\ ay Ibme thculimds of the Inhabitants. ; ; _
Leaving IgLi, uce foon came into 5fl/'t'w/'.7,hrft coming into tjtcck- «?», then to TeutLl'iH Broda by the River 6\7c2.'/j,formerly a ftrong place taken by Zij'ca, the iamous Boh mian General, u ho then forced the Emperor ^Vi^///?»W to fly out of L',/.'mij by the way of/y./.^ l-rom thence wc came to Habeme, and lo to Jamkaxv : At this place, upon the i4rb o\' Felruary, 1641. was tcught that memorable Battel be- tween theSivedj<, commanded by Ltciard Tor^loijoa, and the Impe- riahjis under Count HatzjieU, Goeu, snd other Co,r,ma>uLry. The Impcrialijis had the better at firft ; but falling upon the Enemies Bag- gage and being two greedy of Booty, they were defeated, three thouiand (lain, lour thouiand taken pnioners with their General Hutz- field, and llx or leven Colonels. The luccels hereof gave tlic Sxvcdei adva'ntage to proceed turtlier , aud into SiLjta and Ausrna. In ^ns Tou n ir.eetirg with a Gentleman w ho came Irom Scbaclitz^ which IS not far from tlie Ihjgsburg. ov MjuntaiH oj G\a ts, about the Head of the River E:l>e, I enquired of him concerning the Ipnt Ri- henlal, which i. laid t^ Inleli tliat Country, but he could lay no- thin- tliereinoflus own knowledge; and though he was confident that"tbere was luch a Sp'rif , yet he eonfcfled that ior twelve years it had done no hurt. In ilills^ Mom ai^s, and places ot Mine, men reports are ordinary. It i> reported tliat a .Spuit liaunts the Silver
'*
Cr»P-*w,
fattenterg.
J *i
Traint,
Mines of Brunfwick : and another to be in the Tmn Mine ot' S.'acken. walde in this Country of Bohemia, and to walk in the fl^apeofa M^ik, who ftrikes the Al/»ers, fings and plays on the B^g-p/^es, and doth many fuch Tricks. And Agr'cda in the latter end ct his Sixth Book • De re M tallica, gi'. es this tor one reafon why Mines, or Pajjaies in Mines, are given over.
From Junikaw I travelled to Cza/law, a good Town, and the chiefefl in the C:iaJljKer Circle : In this place they fay that Zijca uas buried, that famous Bohetnian General ; he loft one Eye by an Arrow, and was at length blind of both,yet gave not over the war, and proved fuccefs- iul in it. He wilhed his Friends to make a Drum of his Skin, which ftiould ferve to fright au ay their Enemies. And though he cared not for any Sepulchral Monument, yet he had one in this place.
From Czaflaw we came to Guttenberg, or Cottenberg, about eight Bohemian miles from Prague, every mile being five or fix Englilh miles. A large Town, and much frequented, not far from the River Albis or EUe, of efpecial note for the Siher Mines about it : The Hills near it are not high, and confequently the Mines are not fo deep as thofe of Hungary, and fome others in Germany ; yet lome are above leventy or eighty Fathoms. They have wrought' at thefe Miy^es ieven hundred years, and there are about thirty of them. I went down into that which was firft digged, but afterwards left for a iontr time, but they work there now again, it is called the Cotn.i, or Auf- tier Cotten,upon the Cotten, or Coat-hdl • and as the Story goes' a Monk walking over this Hill found a kind oiz Silver Tree ftickine to Ins Garment, which was the occafion that they afterwards digaed and built thele Mines, and the place retains the name o{ Cottenber^°
The Mine into which I defcended near the Town, is but^^ninetcen /-^//■<7m deep J the chief /W« of xhtOre runs South, and is about a foot in breadth : the Ore holds or contains in it Siher and Con- fer, fo that out of an hundred pound weight oi Ore, they ordinarily get an Ounce of Silver, and eight, nine, or ten ounces or m re of Copper, even to pounds, but it is not well known, for the Co'^per-Korks are the Emperors. The Vndertakers get out what Silver 'they can and afterwards fell the Ore, unto the Empero, s Officers ; but fome o/e IS fo rich as to contain eight or nine ounces o'i Silver. A blew Earth which they meet with m digging, afJbrds the beft hopes oiOre. Two nien lately perifhed in this Mme, having made a fire in it, being either choaked with the fmoak, or, as they thought, by the i mlonous ex- halations forced out of the Minerals by the fire. I have read that Libu£a the Pnncefs, and reputed Sorcerefs o{ Bohemia, foretold man\r things concerning thefe Mines ■ but certain it is, that for the advan- tage and profit thefe bring, the Town hath fufiered much in many wars. The Emperor Sigifmmd made haft out of it upon the ap- proach of Zz/r^, and feeing he could not hold it,burntthe Town -but It was foon rebuilt and poHdIed by Zifca, wlwle party called it the iurjeof Antichriji. "^
-Lt^ivmg Cottenberg, I came to Coffhe and to Bohemian Broda, h named to diftuguifh it from Dutch or Teutonick Broria before menti- oned, a confiderable good Town, and from thence came to Praz or Prague, the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom oi Bohemia. The fValls of this City leem to enclofe the greatelt Circuit of ground of
any
A Journey from Vienna tc Hamburg.
\^^
any I have feen in (7f'rw^'KV but the H;!ts and void fpnces within it take up a large Trad:,and tlicrein it is like the City of Lyon in Fra>ice • it is feated upi)n the River z^/^//'/-/:/, by the Bohemians Vi'xmt^A Tjltaue^ a large rapid Ri\'er, arifing in the Soutli part di Bohemiji^ and before it arrives at Pra<rue^ receives the River Sarfua and the Watta into it : and Northward of Prague the River Egra^ and jovns with the Elie.
This great place confids of three Towns, named the OIJ, the A>:r, and the Kleine Seitten^ or k([er Town, Th.e oU Town lies upon the Eaft of the River Mul^ati^'v\v^x\^ populous, full of Building*^, private and publick. Very confiderable in this part is alfo the Univerlity,where- in are great numbers of Students and Scholars, there being but one Univerfityin Bohemia-^ many pcrl^)ns alfo reforting thither from o- ther Countries. It is fcarce credible what is reported of the num- ber of Scholars in Fr.Tiuc in former Ages, as hath been delivered by divers Authors. And Lewis Ah May^ Councellor unto the Duke of Wirter^turg^ affirms, That there are at prefent fcarce fo manv Students in all Germany^ as tliere were at Prague in the year r jcp. when they reckoned above Forty thouiand under t'ae Rcdorjlip of John Huh, Charles the Fourth Emperor, and King of Bol^rnu. founded the Vniverfity of Prague, giving equal privileges to the Bohemians^ Polanders^ and G~rmans : and when he would retrencli his favours towards Strangers, there went out of t!ie Town in a weeks time twenty four thoufand Scholars, and a little after, fixreen thoufand, whereby we may judge th.cre were more Scholars in Fra- g'te than oi'^'^^r perfons in fome great C:ti s. Th.cre are alfo in t!iis oU Towrt ^\Mtx%CQlL\^es and Clo\]iers. The Jefuites have a fair hand- fom College' ^vx^tir untotlie Bnrfje, but the BuiUi;g\' of the dJ Toint are inferiour to thofe ot the le'J'cr lonv;.
The ;;fri> /(?"•;/ is large, and together with thiC Ri\-cr, encompafles the o/J, and is divided h*om it by a large French or D/\-h, into v\ hich they can let in th^e River. The lr//h have a Cl-nller o\ I ranofcans near unto an old Tower \x\ the f/1/// oftiie ohl Town. The jjitites have alio begun ^ large Cluvjrer, which, if finilhcd according to its beginning andd^'fign, will be very fpacious and noble. They are now making BaHions ihovx the T'own at one end thereof; there is air fo a C//^^/^/, but not fimlhed, at Wiiferaht, or IJlffcgra-^e^ former!^ The Pnncefs the Seat of the Princes of Bohemia, and alio of the tamcus" Princeis ^''^''-^-^•'* LibulTa, t!ie Daughter o^ Crocus^ and Wife unto Primi^aus,
The Kleme Settten, or hifer Prjjgue. far exceeds the other for plea- fantnef>i and beauty of Buildings and fair Palaces. Tliis part lies Welhvard of the River MuUau, which between.this and the oUTnwn-y is pallable by a ilrong Stoiie'hr'cfg"^ confiding of fixtecn great Arches, being about Seventeen hundred loot long and Thirty five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end. A great part of this Tovvn lies high, and upon the Hill ftands Firat- fchin or 7Jpper Prague, and a Summ.er Houfe of the Emperors,befides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperors, as King of Boher^ia ; and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated to St. /'';>, firil: built by St. fff«- ceflaus^XyukQoi Bohemia^ 9i^. from whence the Town and River is beft viewed. In this Church arc divers old Monuments for great Per* fons ; as for Pogiebrackius^ a Bohemian Mng, H^enc flaus Rodo/phus t4ie
Y ^ Second^
•ri
s-.
V:
-tali I i 1
16^4
^■
A Journey from Vienna to Hamburg.
Second, Charles the Fourth, Ladt(l,,tu^ Maximilian the Second, and other Arch' Dukes and Emperors, There arc alfo many Houfes of the Nobilitj in this part of the City. The Palace.a^ d Garden oiColare- do is exceeding neat, though fmall. But I was moli plcafed with the Palace of Count IVallenJleyn^ Dul.c oi FnedLmd^ General unto the Em- peror Ferdinand the Second, who being lulpeclcd to Ufurp that King- dom, was afterwards killed at E^ra. This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Houfes, purpofcly plucked down to make room for it ; wherein the Hall is large, the Garden handlbm ; upon one fide whereof there is a i>!ace to manage Horle.s,and near unto itaFUh-pond : in another part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees in it, after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at G€?wa^\\\\\c\\ is eight- paces long, and eig itccn broad. The Stable is large, and w orih the lecing, where. n there is a A-Lrhle Pillax between each Horle, and for e- very Horfe there is placed in a niche of the Wall a Rack ot Steel, and Manger of Marble, and o\'cr his Head hangs a Picture of the Horfe, as big as the Life, with hisNim^ under it. Among the rell, I obfcrved that a Bay-hor(e had for his Name Mj^te d'Oro^alMs.rQ.Btfla don»a,ano^ t!icr EJpaQ:^iio!etta,ix\d his mod beloved Horfe was named Mas Queridc.
5ome have thought that the bed highCerr^an h fpoken in this part of Prague ; and tl>ere living fo many of the Nobility and great Per- fon5,it is not to be wondred at,thac their Language is better than ordina- ry. But the common Language of jS^/'cr/z/j: is a Duled: of the 6'c/j. vonian^ though very many Ipeak alfo High dutch^ as we tound in all our pallage through that Country. Kom^gjmark being with his For- ces on theFrontiersof 5(?/^if»7/j, a difcontented Colonel of the Impe- rialijis^ came unto him, making it probable that he might furprize Hratfcbin^ and the leller Tide ot F r ague ;.\\i\Q\i he fuddainly attempted, and fo fuccelsfully, that he lurpnzed many Officers, and old Cola- redo in his Bed, getting h great a Booty, that he could Icarce carry it awav.
A Part of -Fr^gi^^ is inhabited by Jews, and called the Jew^ Town ; there are no fmall number of them, and many rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good skill in Jewels, and feveral Ibrts of Stones digged out of the Mi.'es in Bohemia : I bought fome Boh mian Topazes . ot them, neatly cut and well- figured, and lome which were very lar^^e and clear, were at the rate of feven or eight Dollars. During my Hay here, I had a great defire to have iaiuted Johannes Marcus Marci^ a famous Phyfician and Philofopher o{Frague^ix\di alfo to have indu- ced him to a Correfpondence with the Royal Societyy but I underftood that he had left this World, to the great grief of Lea'^rned Men in thcle and other parts."
Many here do fpeak flill o^John Hufs^ and Jerome oi Prague, and I have feen Silver Medals of them. They were furely very notable men ; and I fliall only fet down what A::neas Sylvius, or Pope Fius the Second laid of them. Johannes atate major C^ authoritatey do^lrina (^ facundu fupericr Iliero ymus, pertulerunt ambo consianti animo ne- cem, (S quafi ad Epulum invitati^ad /ncendium properarunt, nulUm emit- tentes vocem qu^e mijeri animi pojfet fore indcium: ubi ardere cepe- runt, hym^um cecinere quern vix Jlamma & fragor ignis inter cipere pa- tuit^ nemo Philofophor urn tarn forti animo mo tern pertalilfc tradituf qnam ijii incenditm. In HijL Bohemica. John was ot greater years
and
9
A Jo7miey from Vienna to Hamburg.
and authority, Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning : both of t.em endured their Death u ith great conllincy, and u ent unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet : m hen they began to burn, they fung an Hymn, uhlchthe flame and fire could fcarce intercept. Noneotthe old Philofopherscndured their death with fuch a courageous mind as thele tlic fire
The iame Author compares Prague unto the City of Florence In 7^^/cjwv;^vhercfore having ken both places, [ cannot omit to lay iome- thing, I had a view of the City of Florence from the top of the Do^ mo, or Cathedrjl, and of Prague from the Church of .St t-e//, upon the Hill in the idler Town: Prague leemed to. my eve to contain a far greater Circuit than liorence ; it fecmcd alfo more'pnpulous,and to exceed it very much m the number of People, the Streets larger, and the Windows ot l^alaces and fair Houles being of Glais, looked not lo tatter'dl}- as the ragged Paper Windows of twrence. The Ri- ver Ar>w, w hich runs throug'i Flurence^\% not to be compared with the /V//y/r/rf« at /'/•j;^//c', having run about an hundred mi'cs from its Head. The large, mially, long Scone-Bridge exceeds any of, if not all, rhc tour fin gcs of Florence. The Emperors Palace alio upon the Hill is very llately : But as for the well-paved Streets of Floicnct, the Domo, or Cj/zj^/^rj/ with black and white Marble, with a Cupoia,iccoK\d onlv to that of St. Peters o{ Rome, iot the incomparable Ch^ppcl of St. Lati^ rence, and the Dukes Gallery and Rareties, I muil conlcfs I fivv not any thing in fr.je.^c? which a'^lwered them. At If ij/i'nbdrg, or the IThite Fliilr\t%x Prague, that deciding Battel .Mas touglit blovemh. 'i. i6io. between Frederick.^xxnz^ Palatine o{ ih^ Rhiie, eleded King of Ej)- hernia, and the Forces of the Emperor t erd'Kand the Second, M hich gave luch a deep blow unto the Protefiant Party, wherein fo many o\ Frederick^ Forces were fiain and droAned in the River in their flight, wherein alio that tamous Commander Fapenheim was found lying anwng the dead, who notwithllanding died not of his. wounds, but was relervcd ro end hiidajs w;th the King of Sweden in the me- morable Battel oi" Lutzen,
From Pra(ii4€ Idefigncdto pals by water down the Muidau, which unites with tiie Eihe about Melffick, and lb dou n, the Elh unto Z/inw- burr^. But the VVinter advancing, and the Weather proving cold, the Boats did not go as in Summer, and therefore 1 took my Journey bv Land, and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right hand I palled the firtl day to ZagethuU the next to IVeluerve, and fo to Budi>t and Lal'a'ficz upon the Elbe. Having palled over the Egra, a conf.derable River, arifingnot far from the City oi Egra, and at lalt running into the Elbe ; the next by the Caflie of Kriegslcin^ or Warre- Hone, leated upon a high lleep Rock, I came toAuj:g, a fmall City not far from the £iZ'(f,having little remarkable in it, like many other fmall Cities of5*^/t'w/j,and lb torward to Nolndorff, where we lodged upon Mount y'i>/wy^f/'^e;?the day after we entred into /^///v/a,paiiing by Peter^ Jivald and Hellendorff the rtrft Village in Mifnia, and A/y/A/,where are Iron Mines about eighteen Fathomsdecp, and Iron works.
We now undcrllood that Bohemia was a larger Country tlian we expected ^ it lies round, and lome lay it is three days potlage over ; others that tiie Dtameter extends two hundred m Jes. From Igla upon she Confines unto Flellendorff, it took me nine davs Jourrey in No-
'T^enibc^'
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t
: .1
■ n:
Ji
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Dn*j'Jen»
A Journey from Vienna to Hamburg.
«*H
xewher by Cojich, not reckoning the time I flaid at Prague, In many places there are very I'l Ppffpges, and lo rudely mended with great Trees, laid fide by fide, that they arc oiten very troublefome to pafs.
We travelled afterwards towards Drefden^ in a fruitful Country, wherein were many Vetr in moft parts of the v\ay, m fight of ihe Caftle of Pilmtz^ a (Irong place, and feated high. I could not but caftan eve on the Rocks behind us in the Forefl oi Bohemia, which looked like the RuinesofaWall which formerly cncloled Bohetnia^ which Country is defcnbed with a Forcft or Woods round about it.
But I confcfs I did not realh perceive that there was fucha Wood round about it as is commonly fet forth in Mapps ; only both within, and alfo in many parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Forefl.
The 5o/r/wA7wj are a ftrong, ftout, and hardy Feople, make good Souldiers, and have made w ars both at home and abroad ; and Hijic- nes are full of their warlike Exploits. The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra, a ftrorg City, accounted the Second of Bohemia, The Country atlords alio lufty and llrong Horfes. The common Ibrt of People are boytlerous, rough, and quarrelfome, efpecially in drink, whereto they are too much addicted. The Nobility and Gen- try are civil and kind unto Strangers. There are many great Fami- lies of tlic Nobility, among which that of Rofenhrgand Fopei\^ an- cient, and of high eftcem. Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown b>s Frederick Count Palatine, 'and the ill fucccls upon it, there hath been a great alteration in this^Country, both as to People and their Manners ; for tiiercupon many thoufands left the Kingdom, and many whoreraained, turned their Religion. And the Emperors have ufed the like feverity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions.
The next conllderable place we came unto was Drcjden in Mifnia^ as well worth theleeing as almoft any Town in Germany, Drejden is the S:' at and Refidcnce of the Elei5tor di Saxony, feated upon the River £//?if, over which tliere is a very noble Stone-bridge of ."seventeen Ar- ches. The City is very well fortified after the Modern way, the Btfdicns covered or lined with Brick, and in each BaHion a Cavallier : It hath alfo a large 7/r«r/' or £>//cZ' about it, in fome places double ; and the River Elbe adds unto its ftrength. The UaJls are very ilrong : and they lay, that when the firlt Stone was laid to build them, there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded, a Bor^k of the Laws, and another of Oy;?/, and three Giajfes filled with IVine, It iiath alfo three Gates. The places moft worth the feeing are thefe : The Italian Garden in the Suburbs ; the Hunters Uouje in the olA Igm'h l;cyond the Fixtr ; the Eledors Palace ; his Houfe for vcild Beajls ; his Stahk-houje and Arjenal, of which I Ihall fet down Ibme things oblervable in their kind. In the Elector s Palace^ the Hull is very large, and handfomly painted with Cities, Gyants, and the Ha- bits of fcveral Nations, and fet out with feven large branched Can- dLfticks: But that which aftords thegreareft delight is his Kmflkam^ wer. Art'Ckamhcr, or CoHedion oj Rarenes, both of ^^r^ and Nature. In the firft Partition are to be leen all manner of well made Insiru^ men's belonging to moft Trades, as Joyners^ Turner^, Barters, Smiths, ChirnrgeofiSyivA oth^V Artificers'. In[irHments to tbrce O'^tn Doors,
Ch. sis.
9
A Journey from Vienna to Hamburg,
Ckefis, &c. In the other Chambers thele and the like are obferva- blc.
A Tuie-glafs hur Ells long. A large Hew Turkifh-glafs. Variety ot Cvral 2nd artificial IVor^s of it. Fowls made out o^ Mother of Pearl, DrinkingCups in ^\i^^\'^y;^ct o{ Dragons, Elephants, ^c, Caflles of Gold and Mother of Pearl. Many Fowls and CtAps made out of Nautili, and other Shells, and out diOefl rich-egg^. A fine OeHnch made out of its Egg, with the Feathers q{ Gold. A Cup made out of the Ball taken out of an Oxes Stomach, richly fet, about a toot long. A Stone as big as my fift, like a Bezoar-flone. taken out of a fiorje. A Purfe made out of the Linum Incomlullibile, Silver Ore from the Mines oiFrei- ^d-r^, almoft pure, in y/r/;?^^y and /hoots. A Natural Cr^/i of Silver Ore. One hundred and twenty one F/eads carved on the outfide of a Cherry-flone. A Religious Man or Fria^ of Japan carved in Bex. A Chry Hal Cabinet, fold by Olroer Cromwell, wherein is kept a Ring which hath Stones in it in the fliape of a Cafile. His Majefty King Charles the Second on Horfe-back, carved out c^f Fron. A FFead of King Charles the Firft. A Glafs Organ. Topazes unpolillied, ten Inches in Diameter. A Cup out of a Topaze, Emeralds an inch in Diame- ter, as they grow in the Rock^ refembling the Fitrioium Nativum, as I faw it in Para^ife-hiU by Schemnnz in Hungary, Stones named Thun- der-Bones, fmelling of /'/rd'. Rocks made out of all forts of Or^, and the names of the places written upon them from whence tliey were digged.
The Figures of /"//^f J in Stones out oi Mansfield ; the Stones ar^ dark-coloured, but the tijhes of a Gold or Copper colour. All forts of 6'/^(?wd'y which are to te found about Sax ny and Mijnia poliilied. Two large pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the Inline. A Cabinet of all Ibrts ot Apothecaries Injlruments and chief Druggs. A Hart with a Cabinet made in his fide, containing all Medicines taken from a Fiart, A while Hart as big as the Life, made out of the Jhavings and filings of Harts-horn, and looking like Plaisfer. Figures printed in Trees. A Spur in part of a Free, Horns in Trees.
A Chamber nfall manner uf Mathematical Inftrumenfi and Charts. A good Library o^ Mathematical Book , An 7Jn}cornS'horn,\M\\iQ\\t\\eY Will have to be of a LandZ^nicorn, being neither wreathed nor hollow, A Dartot Z^nicorns-hom. Among the Pictures in the fame Chambers thefe feemed remarkable : A Pidure by Colter, of the Siege oijeruj'a- lem, with great number o[ Figures, and highly efteemed. Four Heads of the Elemer,ts made out of the Creatures w hich belong to them in Caricatura. A painting of Merchants Letters ftuck htliind green Tap '. A Storm by Rubens. Two Nuns by Lucas Z'an Leyden. A Piihire of Dr. Luther in the Cloyjler, in his Gown, and alter his Death. There is alfo great variety of excellent Clockwork, and an attempt ioxz perpetu- al mot lonby a rowlzng bullet. A Cuckow fings by Clockwork, a Horfe- wan rids, a Ship lails , an old Woman walks, a Centaur runs and Ihoots, a Crab creeps upon a Table lb well as to amaze and delight ; but among all, the Crab feems to be moft naturally imi- tated.
In tliQ Sfable-houfe, befides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horfes, wherein every Horje eats out of a Rack of Iron, and Manger of Copper; and on a Pi/lar by him his Comb, Bndle and Saddle^ and other NeceP
farieSj
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A purvey from Vienna to H.iniburg.
"^•77'hine; Ichdcs a hantliime Window with a Curtain bclorc iiini. ^ ;' cn^^^'^M-V'^bk a vcrv tan" I ru.Uu' ^nd />W let about u.th b io o^ ;lv;/-^ - hue rhc //.r/:. arc watered. A /.,, <../^ - Cbcj aixlralnted uuh //<../.> ; over uh,ch .s a 6.Zrrv wuh the / - / wool !lt>e D.kcs andBcJon 01 .s-.ar;;v. both m tncir AhL.uy ^ V't / l-bns Tuo W. 0: ^/.;-M'. Drinking C«/i u hich ^^.^ ; "cat. ^c; lb CO tnved as to ho'd divers quarts. A S^.n.^ S h c'ul a /:^..y.«M. in S^hn to coii^e r.ding in,brn-.pg a Cup ot r fin hi hand \ pair ol noble F^,.oh with all the A/.//., ot the "v" nd J"r;.^iJ«. ^rontheni. A G/.,/. O.^- A G>. u h.ch fhoo' drVortN t ines without chaigirg again. A Hece^ h.eh iheu s the manner ot the hrll hn cfition ol jfnh^^g Foe in Cms. A Lock
'"t Chamto of rich S/e^s for // .y^., made u^ ofin Jollity and pom- ,.^n. rourles upon th-: Skoiv. A ivbJe Bears din Uuiid. 7/r^r and 5; ^llns! \ U^^r. Skin. Coed ^.^.. |or ./..^nd /T.. /.^ Wanv frts rf //-.//.« ^^^-'O, A«/A.«^ and other forts. A / utuu cA L^plJ^en and their Cush.s. A L.^Ln^Jn^ with /vg.n t coa- hire bv. A Chamber of all //.'/«^/"? Anm and A cePne... '^\,^Arw.mcntarum- Armory X Arjc../,i'. ^\ov?, Iquarc Build, g, u he ein are about Four hundred ir,Js I'leces ot Or^.^vur, great nuni- Le . "/' i '^^ and ^V.....in the upper Room^ S.h.r Co.rs o M,/e. rlro^- Or A^''C. to be charged behind. Hetort. and Ak>fcxs m t^K n-npe of Cr..;.^... The S^rp/e of the chief r/w-r/; was lately bur; t bv I liihtning, and tlie C\i» n niclf.d which w ere upon it. ^ In d e //r;r/«,-/..^'/^, in the ././ T..-., are fitteen /^..n very we 1 provid d for andlooked unto. Tliey have Fou.tain^ and Vond. to u alh Kelive. m, wherein they ir.uch delight : And near to the i^.Ware '.,', r.'i'red Pnfis or Jrees let up tor the Bears to cl.mo up, and .S../- X/\ made at tlie t p to fun zv6 dry t:.eniieb/cs ; where nun u ill alio k t - conie and go as the K e/er calls them. The //... G.'Ien ts ilo remarkable in this place, out ot wh.ca there are three ( hambers ; one painted 'aith ftveral lorts o\ Jn'.»tnig ; another with all loits ot Foul- and a third with great variety ol Beajh.
In 'the Ho.Je for nuU Be^Jis I toc;k notice of a ^/.;./<,.;, uluc Ins a four->ootedBeall, that hangs upon Trees by the r^;/ Alio a hv/^ or /}A..w.//«-6-w/ Ola large fize. live yau,,^ Be.r^. Usx vld llac hears.^ A ivhte Beir \ ery large ; tlie reet, the be.d, and the » ck are longer tnan thole ol the lU I; but not fo tl 1 ick. Tw o L) ons. Ten Luekjcs ■ very fine Beaji , in //^.f/>, cJo.r, andyZ.:/. betwecr, a Tg r and a ).v/./C// ; the- tips of their /r/n and Tails are /^ ac/, the.r Eyes lively, their 5/7« Lvon-colourcd, and (putted, elpecially about their Ejes
" The Italian Garrlot and Sumrr.er-hcujc, in the Sulurl^s is very noble therein are two Oltlnks, two gallant /'..«r^/«i, a Ihe^trc and good J vidA-ips i:\\\s Garden ■s.nf^ Surnwer-boKJ were built by two ol tlic I'rince Eie'dtor's Eomchs, and afterwards fold unto the Prince lor fix and twenty thoufand DoL'urs-
Dnjdo. IS but a late City, and was formerly a Village. Tnc Cl-nr- Lrsl or E/nh'r, was not in the Town ; but the Chur-prn,ce his Son was there • A I'erlon rather of low than middle St^^ture^ his Hair long and yellow, his hiceruddv, his Body well let and adive, and he is very wdl beiovtd. "J he luelent Llcdor of Saxony, is johr, (oeor<^e tUe ^ Second,
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A Journey from Vienna to Hamburg-.
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Second, Gra-irl Marfhal of the Empire^ a greac and powerful Prince, who keeps a Royal Court and AttenrLvjce.h^sxng his Guards and Officer] after the manner of /f'i;;^. His Domimom lie in Mif-fia^ Tbunm^a^ Foytland, and part oi Lufath. His Revenues are large, from I/^ponti- ons upon Comn?od/t/es, His Profit ^XQwt, from the Tax upon Beer^ which ariles to no fmall fum, efpecially in lVirte>tkri^T"r;T^a,:ir.d Leip- lick. And his Sih r Mines are confiderablc. And t'.e Funeral oi the lall: Eledor, 'joannes Georg/us the Firflr, was very magnificent 155-7, at which there were twenty tour Horfes oi State covered ^\ith l^/ack^-ind the Eledtoral £/6-w/c/id'^;;? embroj'dered thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen , and three thouianJ five hur.dred pcrlbns in mour.i- ing.
Dr. Luther\ Holiday was kept when I was there. The chief Church is very fair : They preach every morning at feven a Clock. The Lu- theran women mourn in i\:hite^ as others do in Black ; and the u omaii of the Houfe doth ordinarily fay Grace inftead of the man. The belT: HiiJ>dutch is fpoken in this place, and other parts of ./J///?;/^, whic!) is a very plea(ant fruitful Country , and full of good Tou ns and Villages.
Leaving this nolle place, I took not the ncarell Road,bur turned out of the way unto Freiberg^ a place noted tor Silver Mines ; whereof I ^'^iber^. had read fomething in Jgrcola, and heard very much in thefc parts. About an EngliJJ: mile or two from Freiberg^ there arc many remarka- ble Mines. I took notice of three of them : One called Auff denhohen herg^ or upon the high Hill^ which is the deepell in thele partSj as being feventy leven of their Fathoms deep ; each of their Fathoms contains twelve of their Ells^ and three of their Ells makes one of our Fa- thoms. So that the depth of this Mine exceeds any of thofe wherein I was in Hungary. There is another Mine called Himmelfurji^ or the Prince of Heaven^ wherein not long fince there Was Ore tound fo rich, as in an hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty Marks oi' Silver^ or fixty five pounds in the hundred, but there was net much of it .■ And where the reins are richell, they arc obfer\cd to be thinneft, about two fingers bread ; but the ordinary Ore is but poor, holding an ounce, or an ounce and half, in an hundred pounds weight; and if it holds but half an ounce they work it. Nor is this much to be wondered at, for in the vail rich Mines oiPeru and C!v//, tliey will work the 6'//"i.'£'r6V£' which contains four or five ounces in ^silver Mines. hundred pound weight; and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of the common Ore of that rich Mountain of Potofi, out of which Hill alone, if we believe Alhero Alonfo Barba^CuratQ of the Parilli of St. Bernard in that City, there hath been more Silver taken than would cover all Mijnia over and over : For thus he laith,Potofi hath already yielded between four and five hundred Millions of pieces of Eight. A quantity fuiiicicnt to make liich another Hill oi Silver ; It is hard to form a conception equal unto fo exorbitant a heap of Riches; but the better to help our imagination herein,! know, that if the Ground were covered with lb many pieces of Eight, laid as dole to one another as is poilible, tliey would take up the fpace of fixty Leagues fquare.
Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore whereby it rtay be melted ; as by Lead and a Ibrt of Silver Ore which holds Lead in it. Tliey have alio Sulphur Ore found here, which after it ^
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burned, doth help much towards the fufion o^ Metals : And bcfidcs tlicfe, 5//r/\ or pounded and waflicd Ore-, and Slacken, which is the DrOiS or Cake, orSkum taken out of the J'ortiegel, or Pan whicii re- ceives the mtlterl jWf;era/s, let out at the bottom of the meltin<^ Furnace. Their Treihjheartl^ox clnvhig Furnace ;s\\\^xz the LitLwge is driven o^ agrees better w ith the Figure of it in Agrkola , than thofe of F/tt):gary\ Some oi" tl\e Z,///we/ is green : Timr Buck-work and their £>'g/'(^j which pound the Or^*, the C^j/, and C/j), are alfo very near. Muc!) of their Ore is waflicd, efpecially the pooreft, and that which is mixed with ftoies, quarts^ vrfparrs.
This i^ peculiar in their working, that they bur/i the pounded and walhed Ore in the Roajlhearth^ belore they melt it in the SnicItzovenjoM >}idtirig I urn.'ce.
At x\\o^t /Vines o[ Hungary where I was, tlicy ufed not the rirgulj ehvina, or iorfced Hazel, to find out Silver Ore or hidden Treafure iirthe Earth ; and I Ihould little depend thereon : but here they have an e- ftecm of it. And I obferved the ufe thereof, and the manner how they did it. But I fiujl omit the Dcfcription of it, bccaule it is fet down in divers Books^ and it cannot be fo well dcfcribed as Ihown to the Eye.
I faw alfo another Mine, called Auff der Ilalflrncker, about eighty ofour Fathoms deep,and much worked : I'Jicy liav^e divers forts oiOre - but the}' cf^ntain either Silver and Copper, Silver and Lead, or all three ; but they v\ork them only for Silver. They have divers damps in thefe Mines, where it is deep. The Mines are cold w here the out- ward Air com.cs in ; but where not, warm. Thegreateft trouble tliey 1 ave is by duft, w hich fpoils their Lungs and Stomachs, and frets their Skins. But they are not fo much troubled with water ; and have ve- ry good Lr.gines to draw the water out.
Vi\^ Sulphur ox Br imjlone Ore \\\\\q\\ IS h}xn^ here, is alfo rich; it is hard and flony, as otlicr Ores are; that which hath red [pets Is ac- counted the befi. They ufe a peculiar Furnace to n\t\x. the Brimflone from the Ore ; fc me whereof yields three pounds of Sulphur, out of an hundred \\ eight of Cre, which as it melts^runs out of the Furnace into uatcr, or the Exhalations from the O^f near or in the Fire, are coa- denfed into Brmjtone by the Suriacc of the Water placed to receive it ; this is once agam melted and purified. Some of the BrimHone Ore contains Silver , Ibmc Copper^ and fome Loth ia a fniall proporti- on.
After the 6'////>/;«r is melted from the Ore, the remainder ferves for two ulcs; that is, either for tlie melting dSiher, ox lor the ma- king of / ///vJ : To the former only thus ; A propoi tion is call into the melting Furnace of the Silver, to this end, to ule the Miners cx- pre/hon to make the Silver which ishardjiuid.
The other ule, and which is mere confiderable, is for the makirgof /7//-W, or Copperofe in this manner : They take the Ore, out of which the Brimjlone hath been already melted, and burn it once again, or let it ftill burn in the open Air ; then putting it into a large Fatt,they pour u ater upon it, io as to imbibe and drink in the /'"i/no/ ; this Wa- ter is alteruards boyled to a lufficient height, and let om into tlie C;o(jlers, where fticks arc fet in it, as m the inaking of Sugar Candy^ : The purell OylUlh/ed/^z/AWfticks unto the wood, the rell to tTie
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A JouYiwy from Vienna to Hambl.'.rl,^
i/f
fides and bottom. Thus the Sulphur Ore, after x}m Sulphur is taken out otit, ftill works upon the Silver Ore, and opens the Body ofit in tiic Fire; but when this (Vcms alfo deprived ot'its Vitriol,' \i works no more upon Metals,
Friherg, is a round wcll-walled Clt) ; h^th Iiandfoin Streets, a Phiz- zj, the Elector's Caftle, and five Gates. The Church of St. feter i:> tuir, where many oi the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buricd^and have lair Monuments; erpeciallv Duke Mji^nt.us Ek<^or of Saxony, whofe Monument in llack Ahirlle is railed ihree piles hi^ii, adorned with many fair StJtNas in W/ Ijfler and iv/jite Marble, and'cftccmcu one of the nobleft, if not the befl, in Gcimany. And when this Town was furrendcred unto Uokk and Gallas,' Odcb. 5. 1631. the Duke of Saxony paid 8cooo Dollars to fave the Monuments of his Prcdcceflburs from being ranfacked and dctaccd, it being the iiilhion of divers (jerman Princes to be buried in their Roles,\\\x\\ their Enhqjis o{ Honour, Rings Jeivels.^nA the like, which would have been booty, and probably have run the lame fortune as the Cloijler o\ I laihr. /Awith-' in -vvelve EngLlh m\\c^ oi' Murcnberg where fome of the Marquiffes of Onfpach, who are of the Eledoral Houfe of Brandenburg, lie entomb- ed, w here Tillys Souldiers brake open the I'aidt, and robbed the dead Corpjes of the MarquilFcs, George fredernk, and Joachim Emell, of the Jewels, Rings and other rich Ornaments with which they were entom- bed.
There are fome Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City, by which there are pallages into i\\^ Mni^u This i lace was formerly ftreightly beficged by the Emperor Adolphus, for the fpacc of a yca'r and ^a month, and at lafl; betrayed by a Fugitrce, wlio let in a party of the Emperors into the Town by a Subterraneous Pallagc near St. ZJ)(3;7J/j- Gate, and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town, aui conculTion of the Earth about it, the Earth funk dov\-n in many placcs,and Iwallowed great numbers of the Emperors Army.
Thefe Mines atlbrd great benefit unto the City, and alfo unto the Eledor ; They arc (aid to have been found out in the }ear r iSo. 13ut there ha\c been o\\\^:x Silver y>//>;^j dilcovered fince; as axSc-:necherg at Annebt'rg and ^at Joachims Dale, 15x6.
Having palling lome time at /^/-/^tr^ J ordered "my journey for Leip- fick^and travelling by li\dthe:m and Cddick, came \\nto\t.
Lcipfick is ieatcd upon the River F.Utcr, uhich arifing in Voytland, ^-''^^"t' or Terra Advocatorum^ pallcs by it, and afterwards runs into the River Sala. It is .1 rich and great trading City ; hath three Marts m the year, and great relbrt unto it trom many parts : It is w cU built, and divers Ihujes are kv^:n Uories high. The Caslle is flridly guarded, and hath in it a llrong white Tower. But the Works about the Tonn are not very confiderable , although they might be made llrong.
The Church o( St. Nicholas is well adorned, and hath the name to be the fairell u ithin fide of any Lutheran Church in Germany ; tlicy liave alfo a remarkable Bunal-place or Godtjaker, w ailed about, and clov- Uered near the Wall, wherein the better lort are buried, as the rt'ft in the middle and open part. V\ hich put me in mind of that noble iiurial'place^\\\\\c\\ I law at Pifa in Fujcany, called II campo Santo,bC' caule tlie Earth w hich the Emperor Frederick BarbarolJa brought
Z % from
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172
^
A Journey from Vienna to Hamburg.
from the //(?/y £i7W, for the Ballaft of his Ships, was laid upon that Groui.d.
Leipftck is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it, in the laft ^ud'^z/i?' wars ; one between Gujlavu^ Advlukus, King di Svceden^ and Count r///y,GeneraI of the Imijenal'ijh^ 16^1. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Vid-ory. Tilly was wounded, fled and lived not long after. Another fome years afrer in tic lame plnce, wherein Leonard Tor/tei^/o^ the Sivede, overcame Arch-duke Leopoldus Gul'ieLrm^ and Oiiavio Piccolomim^ Generals of the Impend Army. And about a mile and a half from hence, at Z>//^cf«, another great Battel was fouf^Iir, i6^x. between the King oi Sweden and the Imperial Army^ command- ed by AdhertWallenfleyn Duke of /rW/uw^, wherein tht Swedes ob- tained the Vidory, but the King oi Sweden was flain ; and on the Im- perial fide that famous Commander, Godfrey Count oi Fappenheim,
There is alio an Vnrje'-fity at Letpfick, firll: occafioned by the Ger- man Scholars oi Prague, who in the troubles of the Flujfites came hi- ther, to the number of Two thouland in one day ; and is ftill one of the Three Vniverjitia in the Elector's Dominions ; the other bein^r Jc^ na by the River SJa, antl IVittenherg upon the Elie, In this rjyuver- fity they are much addidled to the lludy of the Law^ but there are alfo Learned men in other Faculties.
The Magiftrates oiLeipfkk arc alfoconfi 'erable. Der herr von Ad- ierjlelme was the Burjomajler^^ courteous Learned Perfon, and geat rirtuofo^who had colleded and oblcrved many things : He hach had five fair Daughters brought up in all commendable wavs of w orkl^g, Drawing, Painting, Maying with Ploivcrs,\\\i\\ Mother oi Pearl, StoneT, and other pretty Uorh. And they fpake divers Langm^ies, wliich they learned at a School in Holland-. So that his houle hatha great deal of excellent Furniture of his Childrens work, and is one of the m.ll: confiderableCuriofities to be k^n in Leipfick. His Sumnfer-boufe \^ handlbm, painted both within and v\ithout : And in the Water about are Mujcovy Ducks, Indian Geefe, and divers rare Fowls. In his Cham'- her oiRaretits there are many things confiderablc : But havincr {^ttn divers of theni in other places, and lately fet down fome lanaies of the EleiSor oiSaxcn-^, I ihall mention but a few.
An Elephants Head ^ixh the dentes mclares in it. An /nimJWko, an Armadillo, but the Scales are mu^h larger, and tiie T il broader Very large j^/ g Fijkes. A Sea-hcrje, Bread of Alo.'^nt Ldanut. A Cedar branch with the Fruit upon it Large Gramtes as they grow in tlic Mine, A Sirens hand A Chameleon, A piece of //-i?;?,which feems to be the headoi^ .pear, found in the Tooth of an Elephant, the Tooth bem^ gruwn about it. The Ide o^jerjey drawn by our King Charles the Second. A piece oiiVood\\\i\\ the ^V^.?-^ of King Charles the Firft upon It. A Greenland Lance wvthzhriQ BeiTdXxh^an^oi'xt, Much jj/>u>/ painting, w Herein their manner V^y;y;^/;?g and 2iyt/v>/^ may be oblervcd. A Ficlure of our Sa-jiour,t\\Q Hatches of winch are writing, or v\ ritten, and contain the siory of \\\% Paj/lcn. Bevers taken in the River Elbe, A Fidure of the murther of the Innoce^^*s, done by Albert Durer. Pidures of divers Ilrange Fouls, A Greenland Boat. The Skins ot white Bears, Ti^res, Wdves, and other Be-.^lis. And I muft: not omit the Garter of an Englijh Bn^de, With the itory of it ; of the ialhion in England iox the Bridemen to take it off^ and wear it'io their
Hat,
A Journey jrcm Vienna to H.miburg>
173
Hat, which feemed lb ftrange to the Germans, that I was obliged to confirm it to them, by afluring tiicm that I had divers times u ore luch a
Garter mv felr. - ; r t- n. 1
Leaving this bufy and trading City ot Le/pJrcK, I diredtcd my Jour- ney unto Magdeburg, and travelled through a plain Country, between the River Sala and the Elbe, by Landjberg, nigh to PeterJdorff\ where there is a fmiU HiU ^vhich overlooks rdl the Country,next to f(oehten,t\\c Refidence of the Prince of Anhalt, then to C^dn, and over the River Sa- /j,before it runs into the Elbe, \\\\ic[\ anfing at Mount Fichtelberg,nQw haftcns towards it. Fichtelberg is a confiderablc Mountai t, near which are divers Mmes, Baths, and Mineral-waters, oi which Ga/par B ujcht- us hath written a Defcription.And from it arifc four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World. The Maine or Magnus, towards the Weft ; the !<!ab or Kahus, towards tlie South 5 the ^ger towards the Eaft /and the forementioned Sala towards the North. Thefe four af- terwards fall into the three grcatcft Rivers of Germany, the Danube, the Rhine, and the Elbe. Then to Sals or Saltz^ a place noted for ^alt- fprings, and that night to Magdeburg.
Parthenopohs, ox' Ma:deburg, is feated by the River EUe,^ formerly Mi^j^ thj Metropolitan City of Germany, now under the Marquifs of Bran- denburg, ot very great Circuit, but little more than half built again, fince it was lacked and burnt by Tilly, and Thirty i\x thouland perfons put torlic Sword and deftroyed. I could not butob/erve the ruinous and jcltrudive etiedts of the late wars in many parts oiGermany,hut not in any fo great and flounlhing a place as this : And a man might think, thatatcer this great deftrudlion of Houfes and ito{A- r.va place iliould not be abl. to fiand a Siege ; yet a few years after it ^as befieged by General Ilatzfield, unto whom (h'aKnier the Swede not being able to relieve it^ it was yielded. The Cathedral Church :s ve- ry fair and built like an Enghjh one, by the Emperor (a ho the F • H, and his Emprefs Editha, an Englijh Woman Daughter unco King E.!- mund, whole Effigies in Stone I law in the Church, with ninern.n Tuns of G(;/^by hcr,\vhichfliegave thereto. And to fa> the truth, £/-- lilh money hath done great things in Germany, for hereby, or ^^^'ith a cood part thereof, this Church was built or endowed. L?o^old,is, Duke of Auilria, built the old Walls of Fienna with the ranf.in of K-ng Richard the Firft, whom he detained in his return throu;^i: Au- liriaixom the Hoy Land. King Edward the Firft fcnt a great Su n of Money unto the Emperor Adolphm,iox the railing ot Souldiers ni Germany, which the Emperor employed in purchafing a great part ot
Mifnia for himfeif. ,,.„.•
The /./ir/rM>f Churches are handfom, and their Pulpits are extra- ordinary noble, and richly fet oti; as I oblervcd, through all Saxony, Norimberi, and where they are Mailers of the Places, and have not their Churches only by permiiiion ; here they Ihcwed me m the C^- thedral Church of St. Maurice, the Statuas ot i\\Qpve wije Virgins Imil- ing. and of the /x'^ foolijh Virgins lamenting, which are very well ex- prelTed • Thev Ihewed me alio two odd Reliques, which tney itill kept as Raretles ; that is, the Bajon wherein Pilate walhed his hands when he declared himtelf tree from the Blood ot oux Saviour ; and the ladder whereon the Cock Hood when he crowed alter :>t. Peters denying of Clvnll, ^
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A Journey from Vienna to Hamburg.
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In the Ru/»es of the Clotfier of the Auq^Mftnies^ there is dill to be fccn Luther s Chamber, his Bedllead^ and Tahie^ and upon the Dovr arc thcfc German Verfes.
Dis war Lutheri Kamryierlm, Wan er ins Clojler kam herm ; Ceelachnii halh ivird noch itzund Hcrin gejehen jein Eettejpund.
i. e.
Luther did lodge within this little Room, When firft he did into the Cloifter come ,• In memory whereof we flill do keep The Bedflead within which he us'd to fleep.
I lodged at Magdeburg, in an old man's Houfe, who would tdl me many (tones of the burn:ng of the Town, the cruelties and hlotcly uidge of the people., who were deilroyed witliout exception : The Kmi,rc%- ny of them being drowned in the River Elbe. After which Ibme ob- lerved that Count Tilly never profpered in his Wars. He told me al- io that Dureus lodged with him, who was employed b> King Charles the Firft, to endeavour a rcconcili-.tion between the Lutherans and Cahinijts in Germany, and to unite them if pollible. We were row m the Territory of the Ekaor o\^ Brandenburg. Fridencm Wilhelmm Great Chamberlain of the Empire, who is in effed: poileircd of Mag- deburg, and next unto the Aujirum Family, is the moft potent Prince in Germayty, being able to raife great Armies, and his Dominions fo large, that they are reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length, from the further part oiPrufta unto Clc-ve, but they lay not together, but mterfperfed with many other Princes Countries : How- foever, a Horle-man may fo order his Journey, as to lie every night in one o\ the Eledors Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territo- ries to another.
I had now lett the pure German Language behind me, for at Mwde- lurg comes m another kind oi German, called Fht-Dentch, Broad- Dutch Niderjachjijche, or the Language of lower Saxony ; a great Lan- guage, fpoken m the North part ot Germany .■ They Ipeak it at //am- burg, Dantzick, Lubeck, and many great Cities : But they can con- verlewith the other High-dutch, and with lome diificultv allb with t\\Qhetherlundcrs ; the one fpcaking in his Langua^-e, and the other replying m his.
At this City ol Magdeburg was performed the firft Tumament that
ticmlelvcs in handling their Arms, and managi- g their Horjes,zniii thcreiore inftituted thcle Sports, whereby the l^ohtUty was pow erfully attracted to Falour and Gallantry, and induced to perfed and accom- phlh themlclves in all kind o\Chevalry. No new NoLnuy, no Bajlard no Zijmper, none guilty ot High Treafon, no Opprejjvr yf Uldows and Orphan,, none Lorn ol Farem, whereof one w :!s of laje Extraaion and
Ignoble^
J
v_
A Journey from Vienna to Haaibur
hnoble no Ileretique, Murderer, Traytor, no Coivard that had run a- way from the Battel, ror i>?dijcreet Perjon that had given ff,;>jce to Ladies by word or deed, were admitted to this HoMur, nor above One of the fame Family at a time. Prh^ces came into the Lisls ^\\\\four Squries a piece. Counts and Barons w ith three, a hni^^t with two, and a
Gentleman '^'xl^i one. • 1 . ,
The hour and place for the Turn.imen', being appointed, he that had adefire to break a Lance there, came to the Fiejident's Lodgings to have his Name written down, which was done m the prcfence of jhrce Heralds, to whom the Champjo t delivered his Hdmet and Sword, and after he had been at confcirion, prefcnted himlelf m the /.///^ with one or more 5//«/m-, according to his quality. Tho. Hor- fes of the Combatants were to be without fault or exception ; the Ca- parijcns and Furniture fuch as gave no clTcnce ; their Saddles without any extraordinarv rifing before and behind, and all things equal. Af- ter which they performed all kind of Esercifes on Ilorje back : and after the Joujls w ere ended, every man repaired to tlie Prefident of his biatioH, to wait for the Sentence of the Judg s ; and he that belt deferved the Prize, received it either from the hand of fome Lady, or from the Fr/«ce that gave it. .
Thele Pajtimes were afterwards difufed, upon the Emulation it cau- fed between the Princes and Nob}lity, u ho Itrove to outvy one ano- ther; or upon wars, in which there was no Icifarcfor fuch Exercif.s ; or perhaps upon confideration that divers brave men loft their lives m thefe Encounters : and no lefs a Prmce than l/enry the SecontiKaig ut France neglecting to wear his Beaver down, was flain in a Turnamenr. And atDarmJtadt alfo, in the year 140]. at the Three and twentieth Turnament which was held in 0>/wu«y, the Gentlemen ot /^r./«c-o.;/j and thole of I Me, drew {o m.uch blojd upon one another, that theri remained dead upon tlie place Icventcen ct the former,and nine ot the
The Wi'ter c^rowing on called me to make Uafte to HamLurg, from whence I intended to pals by Sea into E:.gland, and therefor: I took the advantage of the Stage-Coaches at Magdeburg, and in four days came to P^mluri, I travelled through a Country tor the moft part barren of Uttle accommodation, or Icarce any thing very remarkable, throuA part of the Elector of Brandenburg, ^^d xhta through the X)^coi Lunenburis Country, palling by the City of i.««^«^.^g a hand- Ibm walled Citv, beautified with divers fair Churches, with high .b^/r... The C/.' in', of St. Lambert, ±Q Town-hoaje, and the Duke's I auce,^x<t fair. Here ^x^fJt.fpnngs in the Tnvn, very benehcial to the place, and fupplying the neighbour Countries. The Town is commanded by a //.//near To it, called Kalkherg, which lies on the North- lide. _
In this Road through lower Saxony, I could not but take^ notice ot many Barrows Ot Mo.wts ol^ Earth, the burial Monuments ot great and famous Me>, to be often obfcrved allb in open Countries in £.,5- land, and lometimes rows of great Stones, like thole in IP .r»uus ais Da- niihAntKiuities-. And in one place I took more particular ^ff.f them where three malFy Stones m the middle, were ^ncompaiied in a largeVquare by other large Stones let up on end.
/-y2^«.gisafairC..V,and one ot the great ones, '^^^^[-'^^y-' f fcated 111 a Plain, being populous, rich and remarkably ltron|: U_^is
175
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176
A Journey frcm Vienna to Hamburg.
fortified according to the modern manner, much after tlie uav 0^ //./.../ with roorh oje.rtb, but in no place yet covered or faced with Inck ojlo.e : rhcTerrnory belonging to it is but fmall ; it is divi- ded into the .eiv and the oU Imn. There are five Gates : The stL .^../.leading towards LuLeck ; the Dome-.^ate , th. Alten-.a^e Z
Kin'. . ' n' ""'^. ^^?""' ^ ^'^'^ "^'^'" ^'"'' ^^'-' belonging^ to^ tl^ Kng ot D.W where the y?.«,...y/, and O/rW. h.^ve tleir
City are handfom, and commonlv have a fair entrance into them. The Senare-kcufe is noble, adorned u itii carved i^-^."' of "he Nn,e Hcrrh.s. The £.vc/v.;. ■ or place of meeting for ^lerchJ Zl then enlarging It being too fmalJ to receive thofe AW/... vvlnch re qucnted ,t. Many of tiicir Ci'urches are very fair, with hi^h "wl^ covered vvithC.;/... The Front of St. AMlen.s is L' ft fu! ^nI' Steeple of St NMs IS fupported with great gilded G/S T'^e ^ ther great C/.^»rc/:es, are the Dnr,e-C/',rc/7^^ St Feten St ^Z .?' greater and lefs. St. AHchael, the AV.-a^.J in tl e V^'i^ 'tL'
l^GHL They have a ^..;..« every day , as in' othe^ Z../'! Q.
The Kiy^xAiner runs through it into the Elk, and turns manv Mfs: and the T^^e comes up into divers Streets throuJr, 7 although It be dillant eighteen Q\^.;... n^iles from the ^f or m''!: of the £//. This place abounds with fhippin^^nd many ofV d Burden, and is well feated for Tra^e, as having an oiZ li? ^'' the a...,and being but a da) s Journey from IfleZ^Z & l^" and being feated upon the long River EUe, the third greftWr of Gern;any, whereby it may have Commerce with a great^ m t of th?r Country, and as far as BohemLi. ^ ^ ^^^ °^ ^""
H.imbHrg is full of 6Vr.;>/gc?ry and Merchants of {evpr^\ r The E.^Ujh Cornpany have gtod Pn.He^s and^'wS'r^j^.^nS"];;?- come laden thither with Cloth to the value of an hnn^ j , 'K V^^Jierl^n^ and th.y Hve here m good Repu at.on fdt 'he h'^ nour or their Country : they are i'f/-/««.-nr».«A/? ^^^^ "°" and I heartily wiH. iJlul^^iZ t^'^Z^^'^^'^^^y ^ mit the acknowledgment of my particular ObhaatTcn tirl^' °: andu..../.vP../.«,Mr. G.,^., Preacher unto t fcomp " '^'^^f ^^ the Treafurer, Mr^..^,, ,vho hath been in many pC 'of^^ f ''' and the Holy Land, Mr. Jenkinjon, and mv verv obUin? r fVf' CateUn and Mr. Toivnly. ^ ' "" ^^ \ery obliging Friends Mr.
This place hath the happlnefs to be quiet when the -reat Prirr^. .r Europe are at war,- for it defires to hold a Itrifl- ' f "^"^ u^f^^ °^ and declines all P//.«.;.. with them -" ''''^ ^'■^"'^^'
. I ^ound a Ship at //^/w^^rg bound fbr Lo>,don and whil^ ,V ,„ - ting for Sail, I made a fhort excurlwn into Da;r nF .1 I 'f ^^* W. Country, and returning JlaXt'L^ tlS^!>, ^^ ^T fairs tor £.^/.«^ upon the firit wind, and hoped be nei 7 IT^' '^" over the Aitenaw-jand, and to pais the RU^h 1 "^^ S"t
prevented, lb thati left not /LT., 1 11 X t t^J'of^r' T ""1
rl. n^hts dark . the .ll^^ Z ^^l^ ^t^^^^^
we
A Journey from Vienna ?o Hamburu^.
177
S:Ai/r,
we were able to get no further the firft dav than^V^^^ or St cade, upon the River Zwin^h^z ftrong r<7a'«,belongingto the King of Sweden, where the Ships that come up the Rivcr-pay Cuftom,and where the Emrhjk Mer- Difbontent t'^^i'' AV//>/.«r., uhen they left Elumbu^g upon a
Decernkr the luk we came by Gluckdadt, belonging to the Kin^r of ^K^?•'•"'^ ■nmark. where rhe r,,/U^ it-,« t^....'' r> i _ __°i °, _, ,*
f^.;;;«^r^, where the CaJ/le, the AT^ngipj^^and'th^ a-^rcb^o
cd tnat night before the Mouth of the River OaA\
handfom, and Anchors . „. ...^ ,. ...,,,, ,,,, ,,.,,,, „, ,^^, ,,,,,,.
which anfes in kre>nerlund, and tails into the E/k a mile from Br.nf tuttely on the other Holfatum Ihoar.
AW,r the ix^/.. we loft fight of the Northern nionr.andpaf]l-d Cook s Haven, m full hopes to put out to Sea that night ; but about Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below
'/'\ ?/r ^'""'^ ''"'^'''^ '^ ^"""^ ^° ^" ^^"^'■''^'- 3gain,lell the flrorg El- be Ihould fet us on ground among the Sands : we lay that night between Thckjand oa the North, and ^'ewark on the South, right over z^^miii Light ho/<Je. °
) DecemLer the 1 5//.. the wind turning V.-cHcrly, and blou Irg liard,
we returned to Cooks Hazen, and came to Anchor. Here I came a- tar, and went up the Land to the Fort in this place belonging to the City of Hamburg .- It ,s a high fcjuare Work, With a double Ditch, and and fome fe/e/s come up to the Fort ; but the Dttch or Channel which comes thither out ot the E^be, is dry at low water. Tiie Toivn is cal- led /?.«(/?W,not (ar irom the Lands end. Two or three davs after with a cold North-Eaft-wind, we fet fail for EngLrd Coming ou of . the E/be we were all the Afternoon in fight of an Ifiand, called //..- ,. hge./andt, or Hcly-land, belonging to the Duke of Hoy em, v^hkh ' being very high Land, is to be ken at a -ood diftance, and is of excel- lent u e to diredr and guide bhips into the Mouth of the Elbe with- out winch they would be at a great Ids, the Country about tliat R;- vers Mouth being all very low Land.
//./%/Wis a fmall ^W, having about two thoufand fnhabl. faints, and fix or feven fmall /wr./y belc-^ging to it, wluch are imploy. ed a great part ot the year in bringing Lobjters and other Eijk to Lon- don or Qianboro^gh, the Inhabitants living moil uDon Fijh We bore cut to Sea all night, and the next day made towards the Land again I and failed in figlit of Sch,emon:ekeoghe, AmeLindt, and Sche/hnz in , the Evening we iaw the L-ghts at the rly and Texcl ■ when ux> were near the Land, we were much troubled with the Froft and cold Wea- ther,and Icfs vvhen we were otfat Sea.TIie next day we had a fair wind and made !uch way,that in the Evening we took down our Sails and Jet the ^efel drive, not being willing to deal with the flioar In tit night. The next morning we loon dilcovered the ^'orth foreland covered withSnowand camctoan Anchor in ^/.r^-/r./-Road, where the wind growing very hig!,, we rode it out for two davs and tu'o n 'ht and came iae on Ihoar (praifed be God) upon Chrijimas-day mormng'
Now having made lo I<.ng a walk in Gern,any, I mull con^efi I re- urned WKh a better opinion of the Country, than I had before of 1 • and cannot but think it very ccnfiderable in many things. The Ri' vers thereof are robe, and feem to exceed thoie o( Fr.Z and /o/ " Of the Rivers of Itah, the Padus or Po, is the moll confiderable vvhiJh iiotwithihnding, hath no very long courfe, before it runs ^'^0 the
^ ^ Adnatick
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178
tj*
v4 jfouniey from Vienna /c Hamburg,
Admit ick Sea And //j/>> being divided by the Appenmne-'ills run- ing trom Weft to Eaft, the Kivers which arile from either fide cannot be long, neither on tlie Soutli-fide, before they run into the Mediter- ranejH, as the Arno, G.irigliaMo, and otiiers : Nor on the Nortii fide before they run into the Adriatick-, or the Po. '
The chief Rivers oi France, as the Loyre, the Seine, the Bhofne and the Cnomie, I cannot but highly commend, having palled upon theni for divers days. There are alfo four great Rivers in Germany ■ the Damhe, the Rhine, tlie Elbe, and the 0/r, but none of F-rame I'ecm comparable unto the Rhine and Danube. France having the Sea upon the North, the V\eft, and the tuo large Provinces oi LaKZuedcc and Province upon the Mediterranean Sea. hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Seaports: But lorae doubt mav be made, \MiCther any thereof do exceed Hamburgh Lubeck, and Dantzick.
The great number of populous, large, and handfome Cities, doth attord great content unto a Traveller in Germany ; ior befides about Sixty hx tree Imperial Cities, there are many m"ore of good note be- ongmg to particular Princes, and divers highly privikdged. And fure- ly a true Eftimation ot the Cities and Towns cfthele davs, cannot be duly made from the Accounts and Dcfcriptions thereot left an hundred years fince or more, tor fince thofe times, Buildings have been better modelled and ordered ; Fortifications and Out-works more regularly contrived ; Convents and Fublick Houfes more neatly and commodf- oufly built ; and the lair Colleges and Churches of x\it3efuUes which are now to be Icen in moft, do much fct ofi"the Beauty of ^reat Places Every vvhere we meet uith great and populous ToxvyisVilLes Castles' S^ats oUhcNdility, Plains, Forejls, and plcafant mo^^ And be- lides the fatis[ad;on we may hav e from Ob,eds above ground we may find no fmall content in the wonders thereof under it,in Mi.cs Mi^ ^'^'rah^\moiko[^Moxls,oiGold,Sdver,CopperJrni,Tinn,Lead/^^^^^^^ Antimony ^ Coal,Salt, Sulphur, Cadmu^ and others, wlxre there are alio lingular Artificers and irorkmen, in the feveral Artifices thcrrof Cm venation u ith the People is ealle, they behaving thcmlelves without much Forma It), and are plain dealing and trufty, fo r at a Traveller needs not to be (0 follicitous and lieedful of what he hath, as in fome other Countries, which are cfteemed of greater Civilitv. The Women are gereral y well-ccmplexioned, fober, and grave, and they have not >et learned the cuftom of their Neighbours of France and HolLnul to admit of being lalutfd by Men : faithful to their Husbands, and cardul in the affairs of their Houfes,
They make good provifion againft the cold of their Country by flceping between two Feather-beds and Stoves ^' ^
The common Stoves in Inns, therein there are for the moft i art feveral Companies eating, drinking, and m the night lleeping, are con- venient, con idcring the great cold, or at leaft tolerable ; but they be. mg rooms ctofe^ihut up, the fmell of the meat, and efp'ecially ohl la.c,zn ulual Diih amongft them, mak.s them unpkafant; fo that
mindXr V?'''"'^* '^'\'T^^ °^''"^ ^°""^-^' -l^le I called ^ mmd.that in Provnicc.^ud Italy we drank frozen Julebs, which we
of the lied, uith all the Windows of the Chamber open • and as we tate at umncr, there was a Fann in the middle of the Room hanging
over
A Journey from Vienna to Hambur;
over our Heads, about two }ards ijroad, which with a ftring was pull- ed backward and forward to cool us, and divers hid Fans filled with Snow, to cool the fhcets when tliey went into their Beds,
Germany is a great Hive of men, and the mighty deftrudrion of men made by the laft German wars, and by the Plague is fdrepaircd, that ic IS fcarce dilcernitie. They are truitiul, and lull of Children :' Thev are not exhaufted bv Sea, Colonies fent forth, or by peopling American Countries , but they have fbine confumption by u ars abroad, when they be at peace at home : tew wars being made in other parts of £«- rope, wherein there are not fome Regim.ents oi Germans ; the People being naturally Martial, and perfons \\d[ delbended, very averfe trom a Trading courfe of Life.
While I read in Tacitus oith^ old barbarous and rude State of Ger- many, how poorly they lived, that they had their Houlbs at a diftance from one another ; hovv^ ignorant they were in Arts ,• and it v\ as doubted v\ nether their Country afforded Mines ; that they lived by ex- change of things, making little or no u!e of money, and the like, I'may juftly wonder to behold the prefent advance and improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civility, fplendid and handfome Cities and Habitations, and the general face of things incredibly altered fince thofe ancient times ; and cannot but approve the expreliion at a Learned Man, though long fince, That // Arioviftus, Civilis, and thofe tld famous men of Germany, jkould revive in their Country again, and look up to Heaven, beholding the Conjiellations of the Bears, and other Stars, they might probably acknowledge th^t thefe were the fame Stars which they were wont to Uhold ; but if they Jhould look downward, and weS view the face of all things, they would imagine themj elves to be /« a new World, and n.ver acknowledge this to have been their Country,
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lUrlng the Treaty of Peace at Colen In the year x6-yt htvx^znih^ V nil ed States oi the Netherlands the King o\ Great Britain, and the Frewh King • many Engiijh Gentlemen having accompanied their Excel- lencies,the Lords AmbaiTadors and Plenipotentiaries in their Journey, had a defire alfo to view fome of the Neighbouring Territories,and to divertife themfelves during the heat of the Surr^mer, at the ^^..,the Baths of ^^..,and other places. Having therefore, in order to our Journey obtained a pX' for our Safety from Count Blondel, one of the Spamjh Fllipot^ Z nes and from their Excellencies Sir Jofeph WiWaifd and d Le L Jenkins we left Colen on Monday the Fourth oiJul^znA upon the Road
Duke of AW^s Court, and went afterwards into Itah to AW.«; and brought over the prefent Queen oi England We dined a/! fmoil wal ed /-..« called ^...^..,^hich fomi think To b a name "of rupted from 7-./....,«^, where we flayed a great part of the Snoon" to accommodate an unlucky Accident which happened A i^f™ 5 oneof the ^.^/^ C.«/W« having cafuallyCT/t/w^^^^^^^ longed to a Ccmn,ander under the Duke of Ne.lurg, lying at thS time with a party oi Horfe at this To^vn, fo that we tra^vel ed^in the E^n ing through the Woods, and came late to a place call dLy..^r and" the next day morning we went to Juliers ^^emjtraMe, and
Pnf "inH ' °i/!^r'v'' ^ ^""'^ ^"''^ ^y ^he River Roer, but very arci-
ded bv 7«/ r^^ '^' f""""^ ¥""'''"> '^""''^^'^ '« have been S ded by Julius Ciejar ; the Seat fometimes of the Dukes of cS be
eL^VRI t''f ""''^ ^''^'^ ' ''^ ^'"^«^ the dS ion of th'; Eftate, poirelTed by the 7jnited Provinces , and then again by the S^l
A Journey from Colen in Germany to London. r S i
niardi ; but at prefent is in the hands of the Duke of New I /4r^, It be- ing agreed at the conclufion of Peace between the Spafiiards and the Hollanders^ That the Marquefs of Braftdenhurj^ Ihculd have ALirck and Cleve^ and the Duke of Newhurg^ Culick and Berg. This is a hand- fome well fortified Toxm^ the Streets ftreighf, and t!ie Hvufes of Brick, The Cittadel cox\(\^% of four Eajhens^ of a xz^Xzt Fortification \ with- in which is the Princes Palace, The Piazza in the Toxtn is handfomc - and the whole confidcrable for its heauty and fhength.
July the ^th, we came to Aken^ or Aquifgranur^^ five Leagues difta nt from Gulick ; the French call it ^/A-Zt? Cbapelk^ from a Chapnel in the'^^'"'' great Churchy much vifited by Pilgrims from many parts ; and famous tor the great number of Reliqnes preferved therein. When the Romans made War upon the Germans^ they polTclled chemfekes of divers places between the Rhine and Maes. And Graniis^ a noble Roman^ being fent imo thefc parts of Gallia Belgica^ about the year of our Lord Fifty three, difcovered among the Woorls and Hills thcfe hot Springs^ which to this day are highly celebrated in many parts o{ Europe ; who after- wards made ufe of them, and adorned them after the manner of the Roman Baths^ and built a noble Habitation near them ; part of which the Inhabitants would hive ftill to be (landing, retaining the name of Turris Grani^ an old Tower at theEaft-cnd of the Town-ho^/e ; a noble Antiquity: But the manner of its ^^//-y/^-^ gives fufpcion it cannot be foold. Hence thefe 77;^/-w^ from their Difcoverer have been named AqtiitGranicc^znd came to be frequented ; and the Town of Aqu/Jg^ane built and flouriihed, till x-^/^///^, the King of the H^nsy or Hungarians^ deftroyed it.
About four hundred years after, CZur/<fs" the great riding out a hunt- ing in thefe parts,as he pailed through the IVovds^Mi:^ Horfes Foot ftrook into one of thefe Hot-Jprings^ near which he alio took notice of the Ruines oiancitnt Palaces and Buildings long before for.'aken ; and be- ing IHII more and more delighted with the pleafant Situation of the place, and conveniency of thefe hot Rivolets^ he renewed and adorned the Batbs^ built his Royal Palace near them : and appointed that the King of the Romans lliould be crowned with an Iron Crown here as with a Si!ver one at MiLn^ and a Gold one at Rome- He alfo buik a noble Collegiate Churchy dedicated to the hleffed Firgin^ in the prefence of many Princes and Bijkops, in the year 804, and endowed it with AV- ^-if^^^i for the maintainance of Cjwi'wx, who lived to.iether inaO^^^^^^ at firft, but at prefent fcparately in the manner of Prebends. He builc alfo the 6*/^/ or inxiwrd Wall of t\it C'ty^ fo that it flouhlhed till the year ^i%, at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the Nor- mam^ and the Emperors Palace burnt to the ground. This C/fj'jbefides thefe Devaflations from the Irruptions of the Httns and Normans^ hath been divers times fmce deftroyed by Fire ; as in the year 1 1 46, which lofs it overcame in fuch manner, that Twenty fix years after, it reco- vered not only its former greatnefs, but waslo much increaled,that the large outward Wall was built by the command ofthx:Emperor Frederick the Firlt.
In the year 1114. happened another great Firs, in which, not only
the Bnildings, but many of the Inhabitants periihed. And the Roof of
the Church was burnt in another Fire iz^6. And now of late, for it i^-
not long fince,it hath recovered its lollesby the Fire in the year \6^6»
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182 A Journey from Colcn in Germany to London.
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when twenty Churches zn^ Chappels, and about five thoufand private ■Iloufes Were deftroyed.
The Zca^//-/.'^?/./"^, ox Senate-houfe, was built 1^5-5. being all of /"r^^. ,flone, handfomly adorned with the Statues ot the Emperors The f.rst znd feconJ Stary oi this i?«//^/;;^ is divided ixMo Chamiers • but the highcll IS ail one entire Room or Hall, 162 Foot long, and 60 Foot broad. It IS v\ ell painted in divers parts by Amifaga, : Two Pieces of w hofc ^/-^iivw/^ arc much clkemed here • one of the Re fur red ion and another ot Charles the Great, givirg the Charter to tlie City oiAkei Here the Ewperors, at the time of their Coro-ation, ufed to keep their /^.///j,toget!icr with the Elethurs & otiier Primes. The Rocfi^ (uppor- tcd h^joHr Pillars ; through the middle ot which, the>^./i of all the Chinmeys of this BuiUing, is by a handibm contrivance conveyed away
Over againft this Houje, in the middle of the Piazza, is a Fou^aJiif conhderablc both for Lngenejs and v^tztjlruclure, contrived by a great Artijl Gerard Cons : where four Springs perpetually empty themlelves from above into a large Bajon oi Copper, oix^ixty Foot Diar^eter • from whence again It dclcends by iix Pipes imozCiJiem oi Sto^e 'hand- lomly engraved, and palks to many other Fcuntains in the Town. On the toi> ot this FLmtain ftands a large Statue oi Charles the Great Pa iron ot this City, made of brafs, and gilded over. He is in Armour ' and looks towards Qerryianj. About the edges of the great hrafs B.ifon is this Injciipt'iOH.
Hk aquisperQxzmim Pr'mcipem quendam Romanum, Neronis ^ A^n^^xfratreryi invent is, calidorum fcntium Thermo:, a Principl con^ Jrut^e. Pojlea zero per D. Carolum Mag.um Imp. conjiituto ut loi:us hicjit cam^ regnifedes trans Alpes, renovator funt , <iuilusl[hcrmis hic gelidusfons influx It ohm quern nunc demum hoc cCneo vafe lilusiravit S. P. C^ Aquifgranenlis, Anno Domini i6io.
TheCW oiomLady, huWthy Charles the Great, is of an odd Pi^ire. At the Weft-end is a Steeple adorned with divers Pyramids - and on the top a large (jloh and Crofs. From hence, higher much than the Church, palles a Gallery, fupported by a large Arch% a Cupola near tLe middle ot the Church. At the Eafl-end is alfo a fmall Turret or Lanthorn. The infide of the whole is adorned with Marik Pi/Iars o[6iX^xsiorts, Pillars oitrajs, gilded With Statues, Irajs Doors zn^ Partitions, and much Mofaick work.
In the middle of the a«/•c/^ where Charles th^^ Great was buried hangs a very hr^t Crown, given to this Church by the Emperor Fr^ derickih^ Hrft ThisCrown is made of//7^^r and ^vy.gilt, adorned with fixteen itt e Towers, and eight and forty Statues oihlver, of a- bout a Foot high, and thirty two which are lelTer. Between thcle ftand eight and torty Candleflicks to receive the Light, burnt here upon Festivals. o ^^ »
Or' thefe large Crowns I have feen at Colen, and other parts : and it hath bten an ancient Ornament in Churches, The Greeks hzvt a Crown,or large Circle much like this, in the middle of moit of their bca Chu'ches ; on which they hang many Cesfnch Eggs, and the />> iiures ot tlie ^{^/^^^^^nd^^^'^^^^ The Jurks do likevnle imiate this in their Mojques^ but mfteadot /"/r/^/rj, place Lamps,
Ffedifick
A Journey fro}?i Colcn in Germany^ to London. 18
Frederick the Firll: took up the Body o\ Chayles the Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Churchy and afterwards buried it pgain ; partly in 1 filver Coffin under the AltJr ot the Quire, and partly near the fK///ofthe old Btnlding, covering it with the fame Tvm.b-jloyie, as before ; which is here reportld to have been firft taken from tlie Toyyib oi Julius Cccfar. It is ot white Marble, and hath the Figure oi Prvfer- B.:ix\s\ pina upon it. Out of this Tomb oi Charles the Great, were taken up a great number of /fff/A/z^j'i" and confiderable Paretics, which he had got together in his life time ,• fomc (^ them given him by Aaroi King oiPerjia^ by the Patriarch oi ConiLmtinop/e, and others ; divers of which are flill preferved here : and thele toUowing we had the oppor- tunity to fee. Some of the bleffxl Viriins hair. One ringox link of the Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Prijon, The P-lead oi Charles the Great. The bones of his Amu His Sword \\\-i\c\\ tlie Em- perors wear at the time of their Coronation. The Picture of the ^ir^ gin Mary, with our Sazuour in her Arms^ embofled upon a Jajprs, done by St. Luke, hanged about the Neck oi Charles the Great, and fo found in his Tomb. A Noble M nujcnpt of the Gofpels found in the lame Tcmb. Charles the Great s Horn which he ufed when he went ahunting.His 0«- cijix made out of the wcod of the Croju Our Saviours Girdle ot Leather, with the i'f^/ of CtfV^j^^/>^,the Great at each end. A piece of the true ManftaSomc of the Bones and B/00 /of St. Stephen richly enchafed,upon which the Emperors are fworn at their I'tat^g'iration.k piece of cne of the Naih of the Crofs. An Agnus Dei fent fro.Ti the Pope to Charles the Grcar ; & many other Reliques. Here is alio the Tomb of the Emperor Otho the Third, i'l black Marble,'^A\o in the year lOOOjfirftconftuuted theEledlors oi Germany, ^
Near to this City are many forts oi Miiierah found ; as Lead-ore, the of^ ^41^0^0^ Sulphur^ and Vitricl Hone, Iron, Coal, and Cadmta, or L-tpt5 Calamina- Brafs. ris : With this latter we iaw them make Brafs or m.ultiply Copper, m this manner. They take calcined C/r/'j-// 7, or Calmey, as they call it, Copper from Swe 'W;,and the melted drofs of both ; to twenty eig'it pounds ot Copper they put an hundred pound oiCalme^ : They put firfl into ve- ry larf^e C>«c//7>yjfome old pieces of /rj/y and flackcn,' r the drofs^and af- terwards the Calmey and Copper, ivA let rhem llan J in the Furnace twelve hours; after which,thcy put eight Cr/:/tv//£'j full into one, and let what will run over.thc heft (Inking always to the bottom ; and then caft it into a Frame made of ftonc,bordcred with bars of Iron ; and run it into brafs Plates/which are afterwards cut in pieces with large Cifors. res; t
The hot Baths, ^rc very much frequented at prefent. Within the^;^^, '^'' inward Walls are three convenient ones : The Etr^perors Bath,t\\Q Lit- tle Bath, and the Bath of St. Qnimms, The Emperors Bath is in the fame place, and ted with the fame Springs with that in which formerly Charles the Great took much delight, and frequently uted to iwim therein; in which exercife few were more expert than himlelf; and Ipent the latter end of his days here, and would often invite to the Bath, not only his Sous, but his Nobles, his Friends and Guards ; fo as it was cutloniary to Bath a hundred together in thofe days. But now they are di\ ided into teller Partitions. The Emperors Bath having tive Bathing Rooms ; a 'd tlie Little Bath which comes out of it, three. Thele are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphm'eous ; and arife lb hot, that they let them cool twelve hours before thev ule them. From under a
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184 A Journey from Colcn in Germany to London.
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great round Stone which covered a Well, in which there were feme of tliefe Hot Springs, I faw Bntn/h e, hard, above ar> inch thick, and ^a/t-peter, and a petreficd Subftance finely variegated, taken out.
Befidcs thefe, near unto the inward Wall, of the City,there are Ba/^i uhich are not fo hot as the former, efteefiied to be Sulphureo-nitrous • The fmel! of them is fome-wliat offenfive, and the water in the Cijlem's not tranfparent. The firft is the Bath of St. 0/w//«j, vt hich hath two Receptacles. The fccond the Roj'e Bath, fo called from Mr. Rcfe, a The hot F'j««- Citizen ohV/few, who built it. The third Campus Badt, or tlie Poor t»in. man's Bath. Of this fort of warm Water there is aJlo a Fouyitai»,mVic\\
refcrted to, and drank of every morning in the S:mmer for many chro- The Baths cf "'"/ ^'f«\(f^- About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Ake», is a iwf,t. Village called Forcetum, or Borjet^ from the great number ot wild
Hogs, which formerly frequented that place ,- in which are many Hot Springs upon both fides of a little Rivolet, and let into Houjes where they are diflnbuted into feveral Baths o'[ Stone. There are fourteen of thefe i^^^/e-j, and twenty eight Ba^hi ; the 5.///^^ holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each of them : the Water is clear and plea- lant, without any offenfive fmell ; exceluve hot when it comes firft out of the Ground, hotter than the hottelt of Aken, and is left to cool about eighteen hours betore they ufe it. Tliey ufe aho an fnftru- inent ot Wood, pierced with many holes,to help to cool them fooner or to ftir the Water when any one goes in, whereby he is not fo fenfible ot the heat. There are many cold Springs rife near thefe hot ones whereby they might be tempered ; and lurely the quantity of the hot Water being fo great, no place might be made more delightful, nor no Baths more Noble. The Turks in our times, do molt of any Nation beautihe their Baths, and render them ferviceable to their Health and pleafure.
In AuJIria at Baden, the SawerBath is built after the Turkijh manner W'lth a Cupola over it : and it any one hereafter Ihall build or beautify thefe, they will yield to very kw in Europe. At orefcnt molt of them are oi a Iquare Figure, ot about five or fix yards over ; and the Houfes m which they are, very near one another. The firit Houfe hath the name of the Ladies B^ith- the kcmd is the Snake ; the third and tcurth the Snord ; the filth the Go/den Mill • the fixth the Fool ■ the feventh tlie Cock ; the eight the Great Bath ; the ninth the Foi»„l tain ; the tenth the Cral ; the eleventh the flWld Inverted- the twelfth the Glajs; the thirteenth the Angel; and the fourteenth the Rofe There is alfo another in the open Air, called the /oor mans Bath fn the Street is a Well or Fountain of thefe Hot-fpri^gs, of as great a'heat as any I have feen ; perpetually boyling or bubling. But of all t efe Baths Dr. Blonde/ md Dr. Didier have written lo particularly, as I A Mine otLa- "e™ not to add any thing more,and particularly of their Uics ;« caun„„a. Within two Leagues of ^^.*, ia the Country of £/W.../-<.,is a ^/i^^ ot Lapu Calaminarts, which we went to fee having a Corporal and eight Mufquetiers for our Security to pafs the Wood This Mme lies over agamft the Caftle of Emenierg. As foon as I had delivered a Letter to Mr. joh„ Framk, Comptroller of the Mine for his Catholick Majejly, he went along with us, to tbew us the manner how the Cad- mia grows m the Earth, and other Curiofities. This A/z^^ having been wrought Three hundred years, and being one of the n)oft remadcable
of
of that kind, it may not be impertinent to let rlovin f..r^ '~~x
concerning it. It is about eighteen or nineteenT^ Ic f ^'1'''"'";? open like a Chalk Mine, of an Ovil Finre H?., < '"'y^ '"§ "'^
veral places, and the bJft C L., s bf tw^ n S 1F'^ "' ''-''"! '" ^^^- part of the Mine .- They have now LnTan "x e if u /" 'T ^r^^^f ofdeven or twelve Foot thick, wluch th^^'S'^J^'p f''''^' With fome difficulty, by reafon that the J^j:^tl^l^,^^^'';±^^'!^ The CO our ot this Ston, is of a dark yelloJand ..7and ha h 7 ^ natural Brim/lone mixed thinly in it. Tlie t'eins'oi rh. r "" ?^ ^...m, being fo large, they fallow them not ;;-no„ere''f " digg over o.e anotliers heads,and frame their work into tie fc "'. large ^-/jyrx, and one throws up what another ncic Tc^^ ^^ till they lade the C.rts with it. S me o^thc r J ^^ ' ' u ^'\ T'''^ dark brown ; and there arc ^/. J b" ^ce ^hc C^^^^^^^^^ ''o^^K'''^ handU.mly figured, but moft of a hlackilh c Tour The ? I /""'' the Mine the moit remarkable, are thele x An 0. Ji ! /" / T Earth, which moves the Fu.,/s to pump out the IZ^ f'^, '" '^'' placed in the Mi.e but on one fule oHr ZV r ' ^"'^ ''"^ """^ ^/.«. to the bottom ot it by wlS the Mine is ^f ^'^ ^ T °^' '^'' P^^ or cunicu,.^ out of tl^^ p| ce wherf X^ lets out the ../.. which turns the , J'/, and .ho the 7^^^^^ ^r'^i" comes out oi' the Mine into the NciahbouniPi^ /'.^Sv ^ ""'l''^^' ot the Ore or Stone, whicli they perfoTm a .t otS 'worH^w 'r^'"'^ the ,../.r over it, and ftirrina it J and thisthev dn 1n r ^ ^''?"S begin to work near the Superffcies of the £ J, for th re" eT/ '^'^' lets, and more mixed with c/;y and Euth • bur r'l n. T'-^ "*
^w,f IS the calcining of the Orl r^or al our IJ rT^- ^^^^^'■^"^^^ Shops is the calcij Cal.eO ^^^ ^lZ^^l^:^TZy\.^ Fi^gotsm a hmdiome order firil, and cover a lar^e rl'" ? 7^ '^ , them, o about Forty or Fifty ya;ds Du.eter^ ^^ ^ ^f^ 'r^' Charco.1 in as good an order, till all be cove ed' and fi led up % v^^^ from the ground ; tlien they place ranks of th-^ hr "eft SI ln?r ^ a.d ^.rdiem lmaner,till the? h .e laid all on ^^^t t^:^: to the io torn, the>. comes to each .7..., and all is handfomlv d'^ 'led. They make Cahney alfo about two En.liih miles fmn/v// m C...«./.. Tliey make it after this manned Tl.etakeSeottS of the y^/.«.^ lometimes they waih it, and fome times not thev burn ir^ diey do Koft. Then they take it, and beat it in p ece 'w ii a n lal it
comToXIhe be^ f'"' T' ''"" ^-^y^^^roi^^: ^^^ commonly the belt. From hence we went to Limlurz meeti-a wirl,
divers W/..r. upon the Road,^vho defir.d monev of ut b^t d d noT t-
tempt any thing againft us, we being many of us^ogether L Compa:
Limlurg is feated upon a high Rock, which overloolis all the Cr^nr. try and a httle R^err^s almo'it round it at theX.l" Th" SZ '^'-'^ to the Low. on th« North-fide is diificuk all alo g upon the edzec^lhe Rock ■ and the Gate of the Tou^n, over which is The GovZlr\ Sni fpr^ads It ll-lf t>om one fide of the W to the otht. a^d^ ^t p£age. Here we IIkw our Pajfports from the Spamib Plenipotentia!
way we faw where the Prench Army had pa.ied tiie Country toward" .
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A Journey from Colon in Germany to London.
'l^i^ZM^A^^g^^^out a Fortnight at rochet, after the taking oi Ahe-
^'slus a neat T/Z/^z^ in the Forest of Ar^e>f»a, feated in a Sottom, cn2m4J on all 'fides wkh /////., and on the North w.th deep AlZtLs. So that it Imppening to rau. while we were there, the p ace was, in fome hours time filled with water, the Uay wa hed out oUhc Madows, the falls in the Rrjer made even, and Pohunt one of the jyh.eral Fountains, was drowned. There was not much Com- mnv when we were there, although it were in the hottell lime ot thevear which is moft fealbnable for drinking the imters; by reafon of the wars, and the danger of coming through the Country to them But in Spa it feif all people are free from danger f the Neighbour mg Ynnces proteding it, and would count it very dilhonourable to difturb a place which by the -Jirtue of its Mineral Springs, is fo beneficial to Mankind. Thefe iraters are not only drunk upon the place, but are alfo fealed up in Bottles, and fent into many parts of Europe. And Mr. C..«./.^/, at whofe //.«/. we lodged, told me that he lent it as far as Salagoi['a in Spain : and that he had at .hat time Thirty thoufand ^.z- ties enipty, and waited for a good feafon to fill them, which is the hotteji, dry eft time of the Summer, and the bar deft Froft ^^^^'^ter ■ af which times the ivater is ftronge(i, Iparkling, and hr.sK. The chieteft of thefe [Mineral Fountains are thefe, Geraifter, Savmtere, Fonnelet, and
^'ceronfter is in the middle of a thick mod, about an Englijh mile and a half Southward ot the Spa ; it is the ftrongeft ot any, and t>3e belt adorned, being built up with uone, and a Favilion over it, lup- ported with four handfom Hone Pillars. There is a green place clear- ed in the iVood near to it, and a little I/ouJe for the Fu^knts to warm themfelves in, early in the morning, or in cold weather. The Arms of Sr Conrade £ourgsdorjf,who adorned this Fountain, are placed over, on two fides : and on the other two this hjcnption in French, and Fligh-dutch, in a handfom Oval.
Le Reverendifme © Excellent Fj^me Sr Sr Conrade BourgfdorfT, Grand Chan^berlan,^ premier ConjeiUer d'Eftat, Colonel (3 Couverneur General de tous les Forts & Forterejj'es da Serenijfme Elecleur de Bran- debourg dans foa EHat Eletioral, Grand Frexoft des Eglifes Cathedra- les ^'Halberftadt (^ Brandebourg, Chevalier de I Ordre de St. Jean, Cs" Commandeur du Badlage deljigo^;degros Machenau, Golbcck, Bouc- kow, Oberftorff, (^c <<2c. iSc
This Fountain fmells very firong of Erim[lone, and caufes vomiting in a great many, yet palfes chiefly by Z^rme, as they do all ; and ftrikes a purple with Nut-galls more inclining to red, than the waters of tunlrtdze. The Sediment is of a light blew in the Fountain, but ot a dark, dirty red every where elfe. Not tar from this is another large Spring in the Wood much like it,but not as yet built and beautifi-
'savtniere is another Fountajn^ik\cm^ as far from the Spa Eailward,
and built after the manner of a Toiler : the Jcidula are not fo ftrong
as the iormer. There is another tauntain hard by this, olmoft the
lame, held to be particularly good for the Stone and Gravel.
^ ' The
A Jdurney from Colerl in Germany to Londons
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The third is T^/zw^/^'r, arifing in the Meadow^ and built up with ^^'"^^^''f* {tone : But being there are no Trees nor Shades about it, it is not fo de- lightful as the others. And Henrkm ah Heers in his Spadacrene faith that this is more nitrous than the reft, and caufes fuch a coldnefs in the mouth and siom.icb^ that few can drink of it.
The fourth is Pohuntf in the middle of the Town^ from whence moft /../^^^^^ of the }vater is drawn which is fent abroad, if no particular one be fent for. This was beautified with handfome Stone-mrk^ by tiie Bilhop of Liege^ to whom this place belongs, and this Iijcrfptwn (etover it, iV nitati Sacrum. It is alfo called the Fountain of St. Remaclus^ to whom it was dedicated ; and thefe Ferfts are likewife engravea upon it :
OhJiruB:ttm referat^ durum ter/t^ humida ficcat DebiU jortificat^fi tamen arte bibu.
Being at the Spa^ we vifited Franchimont one Afternoon ; pafling through a thick W(od^ there is an old Caftie, and good Brimjione and ji,e making of Vitriol works^ the fame Stone affording both ; and I prefume may alfo Bnmjhne. make the Spa-wa^er under ground, or at leaft be a prmcipal Ingredient in it. We faw the manner here how they melted, and caft their Brim- Jlone firft into great Pails^ the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the thick and more obfcure fubfiding and adhering to the bottom and fides, and is that which is fold for Sulphur P'injum. ^e law alfo the manner of cafting the Brimjione into Rolls^ox Magdakons r And near unto this place a fmoaking, burning,Iittle /////, which is thus caufed : They throw out the burnt Pyrites^ out of which Bnmffone hath been diftilled, and the Fitriol drz^^n out by infullon, upon this Hill ; which confiits all of the fame matter, and ferments in time, grows hot, fmoaks and burns perpetually, and withal drinks in a new Vitriol into its felf
From the Spa we crolled over to Fra'ont, a Village feated upon the pleafant River Vta^ or Ourte^ where we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream^ vet one of the pleafanteft I ever faw,winding and turning between many green Hills, in part of the Forejl oi Ar duenna. We de- fended afterwards thirty or forty fmall Falls in a long Boat made on purpofe. The Oar or Paddle being only a fquare piece oi Board fix- ed to the end of a Pole^the Pole ftanding perpendicularly in the middle of it. The delightful River Vefa^ or the Wejdret ^(oon met us, and joyr- ing together,we fell down with them into the Maes near LiegeXJ^otx the Banks of thefe Rivers all the Arms^ Guns^ and other Injlrumtnts are made,for which the Country of Liege is remarkable.
Liege^ Luick., Leodium^ or Augnjia Ehwonum ; Learned Men think Ucg^ this C iry to be feated near that Vally^ wherein two Legions oi Julius Cicfar, under Sabinus and Co/ta^ were deftroyed by Amtionx^ chief Commander of the Eburones. It is lea ted upon the River Mofa^ which entring with two Streams^ makes ibme pretty Ijlands. Three other faiall Rivers arifing in the Foresi^ of Ardenna, are alfo here received into the Maes^ whereby they have plenty of Filh and other Convenien- cies. The City is very populous, and fo it hath been in former Ages,when as Charles Duke oi Burgundy, idiQked it,and deftroycd an hun- dred thousand of the people.
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A Journey from Colen /« Germany to Londog
It abounds with kir Churches, ftsrely -.« w., and /f./,.,.«, Fo";;;; danons, nchly endowed, fo that it hath been called the Parld.Tf /•j^T, and .s in that kind the mod notable in all thefe parts Th{ Pakce of the Bifhop is a noble Fabrick built bv r^rHmoi r j
SVlht'^^f J)f ''?'''-' ''''' the Na^t'of St^^'rif^^^^^^^^
thc%fZ{ °irt1 " •" T '""'■^'^''^ ^y ^""^^ ^"d others, abou? the > ear 6zz. The Sea was afterwards tranllated unto ne,, by ^"l
nil I • r r ^/^"^.^jl ""to this Church, u hich is at prcfent very nob^ being built of a reddifh Stone, very much carved withoS and handfomly adorned within. Between the Q,.re and S.cr/T:^ 'ht Injcnption in very large Letters : ^ /» " '""•
D. 0. M,
Intemerat^ Virg,ni Mmx, S..&0 Lamberto, EccH^ &Pa(r}a DtvaTutelanhus Max.milianus Henricus utnuj\ue Bavariar D«?^,1 .^.M^^.. (^ £/.^/., Colonienfis, Ep^fcopu. # /'r.^? Leod^ent Eniefti fe Ferdinandi Bavar.;E £)«.««,, £^,/c.;.r«^ ^ /..^c/P^rLeS M D^L^^nr ^ ■^"' "^" ^ J>re7eJl^rum memorZTon]tl
.n^r!5'n°/^' ''"'^/ri:^- °f great riches and power,and have the Electi- on o the Bi/hop and Prince, who hath alfo had th; Titles of Duke of W.«,Marquifsot/-r.«c^,«„«,,and Count of Z....and HaflTa. In
/!?;r.^^w";^''"'-''^' P'^^^^"^ Eledor of Colen and Biihop of x-zf-^tf, I find this Infcription. "imop oi
Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratis Archiepifcopus Colonienfis Epir- ccpHS ^ Fnnceps UoditnCis^S up rem us Bulloncnfis La-. ' ^^
f AfT vf ^'^.'""P of Z/fg.,bought the Principality of Z.W. of C.^^ /ry; of^.«.//.«, when he went to the Holy La J: And in thf TreaX oiCan^iray 15^9 the polFeilion of i?.«4., and precedency of Tlc^ was granted to the Bilhop of L.ege, altho Joh a' this tTme alio the Houfes of Z<2 Tour and Mark do bear the fame
Ot the Parilh Churches that of St. Joh» ard of <^t c,.. r ftir. Or.he Abbej^tha, of Se. J.coi wS the Town jfrf s? iowMff, built by Blfllop Ratimrdu, upon an Hill nnr „l' ,h. T arc nobk. There is alio a College of S/* lelu terull t, } °*"' a HUl. where the Garden is hanlon, ^niVt^ll^^tZl
; bmr',rthrchurch o'^^x^c'/"^ ^" ^'«'''* ^^-y ^-s^r:!
ly uuur. in tne Church ot the Guhtlmtlcs, out of the Town lies th,. Body ot ™r famous Country-man Sir John Ma.Je-v.lt, uhrafter he had travelled through many parts, took an a&aion unto thfs place
iug Tutor to or., the 'third, l-efctlrd ^^n^f y^mu^^S't^i^';!'?- to repa,r and budd divers Churches, and , ndow^l^m'wS, r?ch ReV^
-^ Journey fmn Colen /tz Gcraiany to London,
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nues, and let the River Maes into the Town, which before ran upon one fide of it.
As their Churches are fair and numerous, (bo are their Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedral of St. Lamlert there arc eight large Bells, and twelve lefler ; and there is one lb great, as it is faid to require Twenty four men to ring it. In the Cliurch of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are confiderable ; as alfo at St. Lawreme and the crowed Friars. It is alfo an Univerfity, and m as fo famous in former Ages,that they ftill take notice that at one time there have teen Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty four Dukes Sons, Twenty nine of Counts, be- fides many of great Barons Students therein.
Their Speech here, as alfo at Spaxv^ is called Roman^ and is a kind of old French^ or Dialed: of that Languag ', a great part of which is made upofZ^r/^, or Roman words: and they coll the Neighbouring Lan- guage of the Dntchj Tu/fcon. But many fpeak very good French. They bavefome Vineyards affording a fmall Wine. Tne Hills about furnifli them with Quarries of good Stone, and of feveral kinds They have alfo divers Mines and Minerals, and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in fome places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer the Surface : and in o^^e place I faw them beginning to dig where they im- mediately found Coal. Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water, are very confiderable at thefe Mines ; in fome places moved by Wheels, at above a Furlongs diftancc, to which they are continued by ftrong Wood-work, which moves backw^ards and forwards continu- ally.
The 0>W(?/ (lands upon a Hill, and is of great Strength; It was built to keep the City oi Liege under Subjedion. For 1649. there being fome difturbances in the City, Ferdinand^ the Eled"or of Colen^ offering to come into the Town to appeafc it, was oppofed by the Con- ful, Jacobus Hennet^ who was foon after Jurprized and beheaded toge- ther with S^r,'Wow^«j Rdandus \ the Conlul having fworn the E- ledlor ihould never come in whilft he were alive. And thtCittadel foon after was ordered to be built. The Bridges are handfom : that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair, and hatli large Arches. From hence we could read the Eledror's name upon the Cittadel, Maximil/ams^ although it were at a very great diflanee, the Letters were fo large.
From JL/(?^^ we had a plcafant paflage down the Water to Mae- ftreichty parting by Argentau^ a Callle leated upon a high Rock on the right fide of the River, belonging then to the King o{ Spain^ afterwards by yichet in the halfway, and then by Navagne^ a ftrong Fort in the Maes^ which command^^ the River, and at that time did the Spa- niard fervice ; then by plealant Rocks on our lelt hand, wherein many Cuts and pallages have been digged till we came in fight of Maelirekht.
This Town having been a little before taken from xhQVnited States by a iharp Siege, was full of French^ and had a Garrifon in it of about ten Thoufand men ; and in the Market-place ftood about Two hun- dred large Fieldpieces. We law the places where they made their Batteries and their Mines, the Out- works were very numerous, and many of them undermined. Colonel Storjf iliew'd us a handfom Draught of all the Works, Approaches and Manner of taking of the
Town.
AbouE
i^o A Journey from Cokn in Germany to London.
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Vof^ston^^**'' ■ ^'^^^^ ^ quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the noblefl; fure in the World, ^ Be- tween Farloj and Ficenza I had formerly fecn the famous Cave oiCw jloza^ or Cuhola^ faid to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth, and Seven hundred in length, but this doth far furpafs it : tlie Roof is very high and Ibtely in moil places, the Pillars not to be numbred,all very large ; we palled two miles under ground amongll them : No Laby- riHtbc^n be contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform. The Floor all in a level, and the Roof\n moft places of the lame height* and lb much Inch that uniform rule, which I fuppofe was fet to thofe who firft digg'^d, and fo hath fuccellively been oblcrved, added to the beauty of this place, that there is fcarce any thing more noble. It put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero^v^\{\c\\ he caufcd to be made under Ground in the Bocks at Bans, And the Water which we met with in one place, made me think of Aer^^'s admirable fijh-pond, built in the like manner within the Earth. We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River^ and returned by w^ater to Maeflreicht,
The next day we parted Company. Mr. Newton, Mr Et trick, Mr, Crovey Mr. Carlton, and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen ; Mr! Bates and Mr. Dajhn went up the River again to Liege, at which place, Haying a day or two to find a convenience to pals to Bruffels we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Venijon^ Wild-boar, and other Dijles, by that worthy Perfon and Learned Mathematician Francifcus Slufius, one of the great Canons di Liege, who alio continued his high Civilities to us to the lall M nnte we flayed in Town*
Leaving Liege we foon came in fight of Tongres, or Tungrorum o^ pidum^ the molt ancient place in all thefe Countries. Ortelim would have it to be called of old ^r^^/i/r^.- It was a ftrong hold before the coming of JuUhs C^far into Gaul, and was afterwards made a Roman Station, and in procefs of time became fo great, that Attila the Hun de- ftroyed an hundred Churches in it, it being at that time a Bijhops See which in the year 498 St. Servajius removed unto Maejheicht. Many old Coins and Antiquities are Hill found here ; and part of an old Chap- pel, faid to be built by St. Maternus, Dilciple to St. Feter, is ftill re- maining. When the King of France made his great mroad into the LoiV'Countries, 167%. he borrowed this Town of the Eledor diColoone and then palTed on to Mafetck, where crolfing the Country to the Rhine, by the fides of thefe great Rivers, Rhine and Maes, he made that notable /^cw///^;?, and quitted not tongres till he had taken Mae- jheicht the year following. Wc dined this day at Bcrchloe. and lodg- ed at St. Iruyn, or St. truden. a handfome little Tvvon, fo called from a Church and Abbey herein dedicated to that Saint.
The next day we dined at Tienen, or lilmont, on the little River Geet, once one of the chief Towns in Brabant, but long i1nce decays cd. In thefe Plain Countries, in many places we faw Imall Hills, or Sepulchral Eminences of the Ground \ And near unto the Walls of Tie- nen, are three very remarkable ones, laid to be the Tombs of great Com- manders. In the Evening we came to lovain.
Lovain is the chid City of that quarter of 5rj/^;;/, which compre- hendeth Arfchot, Halen, and Judotgne ; an ancient and large City pleafantly fcated upon the River Dele ; it is of great Circuit%nd the
compafs
fyngret.
lov^tin.
A Jorirney from Colcn in Germany to London. i 9 1 _
comf>al\ of the ,P.z// accounted aboveM n„les about : but there are ma- ny'void 5pur«, mis,ndrl^,^nA Garrlem^'ithvn it, which makes it verv pleafant and deHght!uh Tlicre are herein d;vers go: d £W^/.gs Comcnn^^nd Churches : the cb.iet uhereo is the ftate y Chunl^o^^. Peter, the Coriverft of the Carthnjum, the H<>jpitaL The pubhck Pa- lace or Semte-houfe is alfo Noble. , . , , ,,•,••
It is the crreat rjntverfuy of thefe parts, faid to have h.ad its beginning about 926. %ut endowed bv 7«/« the Fourth, Duke o BraLwt, ana confirmed by Pope Mart., the Fifth, 1425- There are forty three Col- lew in it • whe:eof the four chief are i //i«w, ta co, Call rum, I- areas. Goropim Bccanus, a Learned Man, and Native of Em^eh afhrms. That no Vnrjerjity in Italy, France, Gerrr,ar,y, or 5^./«, is to be compa- red unto it for its elegant and pkalant Situation. The Vmverfity is un- der the Government of a /V.<?<r,w ho IS in great efteem and honour a- mong them. This Vmverfity hath produced many Learned Men • But neither the BuiUivg^ of the Colleges; nor their End<n.mey,ts do e- qual thole of our 7Jm'^%rfmes, and the Situation thereof feems not to
exceed that of ^^xf^r*^. - ^ ,
We travelled f om hence to Br4eK being moft part of t!;e w^ay in the ffght of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Romhald at Mach-
""count Monterei was then Governour of the LowCoun'ries, and re- fided at Brui[els, the ordinary Scat of the Governour s of the Spanilh Netherlands; w hich City he had taken care to fortihe, and to make it moretenable, ifitfhould be attempted by the F/-e«ck
7roTBru(rds^z palled to Anmerp, where we were handfomely treated bv M?. Wautels and Mr. Hartop, and having vifited lome of our Sends the next day we palled tlie River Schdde, and took Coach m ^le Sorn n<^, tTavellLg through a fruitful, plain, Hat Country fet with rowrof r";;. in moft places, and arrived in the evening at Ghent.
Gat Gandavurr., or Ghent, is efteemed to be the greateft aty, not o,.,, oZTplanders h^t oi^\\ the Low Countries, and challenges a place amL° ft tS g^^^^^^^^ but at prefent It decreafes and de-
cXtlKrthan encrcaies. And ifC/..r/« the Fifth were now alive he could not put Par.s into his Gant, a greater Glove would not ht that Citv whSislb much increafed fmce his time. In G/;.«. are many nS CO Tents, among which the Jefu^tes is one of the faireft : There IS a cS^ ' alib of En^nih Nuns. The Cathedral is ftately, and the r/u^fr if longing to it being very high, gives a prolped of a pleafant fndtVuiul Country round about it. There are divers Piazza s large and tlTr in one of which ftands a large gilded Statua^ ^f'''.$Z Fifth Emperor and King oi Spain, who was born in this City. Th* whofe Ss generally well built, and the 5.r.er; are fair and clean, tL mXI? hereof- have been taken notice of to be extream ly g. ,,nLsMon, and for their lakes a great many "^^er ^^^l^X^f'' rope are punilhed, and have in a manner totally oft tneir Liberties S the JZ^^r.//, to curb the Seditious humour of the People o Ghent, were pu^upon th; Invention of building Cittadels in C.t,es, whereby a Tew ^STare able to fupprels any Com^.of.n, or beat down the -r r^ r\^^r here 1 faw t^f:. firft Cittadel that was built in Lurope oy cS?.h"Kfth ltt"cda^e. and the B.,t-.« l>«lc, and though of
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IJo^'eiJro^^UAaun Germany « 10^1^^
From 67j(f>f/' wc pa/fed by uater -^hnur T... fi-r., a very elegit largc^Cuy „d "J^'if'^?^* ™'" •" Trade, being within three League of rl,eiwl,fc 'T^ Srcnt tlieir highell /!«,/y„j;, ,|,e Sl.ioi nnH7. s, i' '" "'".' ''■'-™ d's tops of
an,e t,„,e a Fleet „f i.ips and "^ arge ¥eS ,r„;''^^'''=',-'r'' " ""= Coumry.coraes under your eve hklZP, "','"""'''''. Pleafa.-t and deep c,>rf.„. TlJcZZl/s a „„'"*' "'?, '^<"'« °f ^«*
;WA„d they arc at'X^t^J-tT^^^^^^^
<^'y/^'^^ IS about Ten E-g-n/p miles from « • r. r j v^avesofthe Gern,.n Ocean wSuafh^rf ^ ' u^'"'^ °P°" ^^'^
And they have now contrived kfo a' ^e7^^^^^^^ '" ""'^ ^de:
the Town for a great fnace u-hX.h, / ^''^ ^''^ m aJmolt round
and delenfible tlfan bet?' For u h „ tl^rr '^"^^^ '"^^ ^^^"5 what It was when it was b^fieg'd by A ch H I TP ''' ^"^ '^""^'^^^^^
terthreeyears4e,fcan'no;bu^f:n,^,\" ^^^^^^^^^^^^
plies from ^.g/W, and the obrtmate Valour of rn"?"", ''^'^^'' ^"^- cialJy thc^.^/>//, under Sir /-r^^c/. /> " c/ ^f . De[endants, efpe-
the states of the ^...W /V.w/and / 5' "2'^"^/" '^^'^ ^^"^^ '^f 1 he S^^^^^r^s porrel. no other P., ^n ^.f^rbl"';'^"" 'V'^"'^' ' and this being tiie moft conHderable they aTe now m'""'^ ^'"'^'"'' ' a>ge and are "Pon a confderable WorkTn 0X^0^1;^ ''^'^ ^^'^"^'' their Ships over into that Cut vv hich aoes from n// / """^^"^ cf o ;he;r Harbour, by the means of a Cy JrZ Ik \ ""'"^"^ °"^ i\-u-r, wJuch is to communicate with borlf. u hts .""I ^^^^^P^^'^ "f cd, may be very advantageous to t^^ n^c;^]T^;J'^'' V" ^'^^
^^r i;^^^/lS f;:^;?Z^:^^^:^ A^^^-, a hand, great number of fniall Ships in tl p // 7 :., ^^^''^ ^'^^^ ^'^^n a the Battel of Ne.potl fought he by '1/? . ^'"^ ?^^.^^ ''' ^'^'^' ^or wherein the 6W7. Forces In fl^Lj '^^'^"'T'^' =>"J Count ^/^;,.>,^, the Field was duet to tTe j.i^^^^^^ '^^^^ '^ '^^ J^onour o
t-calthough there l^ath b^i^^T bS^'d^^^^^^^^^^ -^-'»
tiiere hath not been fo confiderable a / .r^l r '""^'^ Quarters, yet
£"g,'^/h had aifo the fortune to do ^rt s "■"" ^"'"' "^'^'^^"Sii the called the Battel of th^ w2y.,tl^? 'aHf h"?'^"^ ^I- t'S^^
^-/.i., where at prefeift tl. re s J. V^r^ otT'^^ A '.^"^ ^"^° H.gh-water mark, vvith fome lew Guns mL teS^' rf^ '^""'V^' more mto the Land, being demoliihed ^^'^ ^''^''" ^°«'
A Journey from Colcn /,; Germany to Lon Jon. ,5,
fpaiSti'jTrrdSS^S^He "(7' '"'" "^^^ finiihed a noble cittM, begunChc ^"S\vl,^^ V"'' "'"■ ■n their pon-effion, whrcl', ha^th the Z cn'if f d of i '"tl,e ^i" "''=
fsTt'StiritdYr ' "T^^* •"= Land,;tid,\^ht S's
is at >^uth-weft, doth fomewhat annoy it: To prevent whirls rl,„
vej; la"£"a„Tre B f " ^'"''f^]- ^"^ "'^^ Forrifat^? t vLry large , and the Baftion towards the North the moft ftatelv THp
Port IS large and capable of receiving a gnat numbe^of Ships but at
ow water it is almoft dry ; and there are fo many Sa'ds before it tha
F omT/^^^ ^"^ comes not in any depth within a mile of t.
From Dunhrk we travelled by Land to Graven^, where the Works a e of Earth, large and high, the Church ftately, the Streets b oad bu
wf2t' rV'"^ f '"t''' "°^ P°P"^°"^- The MarquisT^,?/-^^-''""^ V /T "-^^r'"''' and my Lord Ruterf.rd with his Scotch and £.^/.^, came before Gra.eli„^, upon the fixteenth of .^W/, S' and carried the place m twelve days time; Don anJhphil/eManzue^
vrredTbT;he"/"77"^'^V" ^^^'^"^^ ^'^^-^ ^'^^ '^^' "ST vered up by the French to the Spaniards x6^%.
trom (7r^T;.'/i»^ I came to Calais, from whence fetting Sail in the morning, we came to Dover, and the fame day to London.
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Travelled fome years fince, between Fenke and Genoa, through many Countries of early Civility, feated in the middle of the temperate Zone, in a fruitful and happy Climate -, affording plentifully all NccelFaries for Life ; and through Countries which have not only been confiderable for their copious production of Corn, Fruit, Silk, Wine and Oyl, but alfo for having been very fortunate in all Ages, for brhjging into the World Perfons of great Fame and Renown, who have rendred this Trad: of Earth more than ordinarily remarkable for great Adions in all times. The memory of which is tlill preferved not only in their Writings, but alio in their fplendid Buildings, and Antiquities ; though no parts have taOed more deeply of the dangerous variety of fortune, thefe having luffercd the irequent Incurfions of many fierce and warlike Nations. Having therefore formerly enjoyed fuch variety of obfervable Objeds, I could not remember this Journey without fome confiderable fatisfaction, ef- pecially having at the fame time had the good luck to travel a great part of it with my worthy friends, Sir IVillum Trumhull, ^\x.Soarr,t:f, Dr. PJman, Dr. James, and Mr. Dajhvood, which mikes me bold, uix)n the opportunity of this fecond Impreffion, to add further this
ihort Account.
■ We palTed from Venice to Paioa by water up the Itrcam ot the plcafant River Bre^t, having all day longHoufesof Plealure, and well built Palaces on each hand of us. We entered this River near Lizafu^ fuuj, five Miles from /V>?/c'f; where formerly a Wheel, or Engine was placed, to convey the Veflels into the River. The Venetian having loi>^ fince flopped up the entrance of the Erenta, left that by the con- tinual Delcent of the Water, the Stream, and Channel might be di- nnnilhed, loft, or altered ; and the palfigcs for their Vcllds rendred dan^^erous, or inconvenient ; but this is otherwik contrived at prelcnt, and'tour large Locks or SoHegni are made ule cf, both to keep up the M utcr, and to facilitate the pairage of the Vefiels. Thcfc arc placed at
A Journey from V^cnicc to (icnon.
195
Stra^Dob^ Mira^ww^ Moranzju, and arc very remarkable, con/ideriprf that the River in thefe places is locked up, a-'d tlic Vdli'ls which arc to pafs arc brought in between great Gates ; and the water let in or our as tliey have occation to pafs up or Ao\\>x\ the River.
The landing-place at Fadoav>, handfomly ft-t off with llonc fleps p.xd^.t continued^ for a long fi ace, along the fide ot the River, alter ti e manner of the landing-place at (jbcnt, and fome other elegant Cides oi' the Low Countries, Ihc outward Wall is ftrong, being v\ eJl lr)rtifictl according to the Modern Rules of Fortification, in the timeof Z,c.v;/,/;-. do Loredaro^ Duke of Fentce ; and to render it more ftrong, the Ri- vers ot Brenta and Bacchi^lione are let into the Town Ditch. *The in- ward Wall is now moft confiderable for its Antiqujty, and tor retain- ing the name cf its rounder ; it being ftilj called .V,v/cw.ri|j Wail : [r contains a tar lefs fpace of ground than the tbrmer, -P././^u being built in this refpedt like to the City of Aix la Cha^elle^ or Akcn^ havin^^ GWneTown within another. ' " ^
That Tat avium, or Vadoa is one of the oldefl Cities of Europe^ built prelently atter the Trojan War, is contelled by Ancient Writers'- and fo generally believed of old, that Livy lays it down ibr the Ground- u^ork of his Hiftory ; beginning in this manner, Jam pmmm omnmm Jatis conflate Troja capta^ &c, i. e.
In the firft place it is lliificiently manifeft that Troy being taken, the Gr^cijwi executed the utmoft of their rage upon the TV^/u/yj-, ^-Eneas and Antenor only excepted, by realon of their ancient triendfhip with the Greeks ; and in refpedt that they had always endeavoured to make Peace, and reftore //^/drw^. After various tbrtunes, Antenor brcut'iit a great Number of xh^ Eleneti, who having loft their King Pylemon at the Wars of Troy, and being driven out of Fapblagoma, by a Fa- ction, were now feeking new Seats and a Captain to lead them ; and came along with them to the bottom of the Adriatkk Gulf, drove out the Eugemans who inhabited between the Sea and Alpes, and eftabliih- ed the Tro ans and the Heneti in thofe Countries.
Martial d(o fainting Flaccus^ a Fadoan Potty calls him,
FlaccCy Antenorei fpes ^ Alumine harts.
And that you may more firmly give credit to it, you may further alfo have the authority of a Goddefs for it ; for Venus is introduced cxpoftulating in thefe terms with Jupiter^ in the behalf of ^Eneiu.
Quern das finem. Rex magne, malorum ? Antenor potuit, medi/s elapjus AchiviSy Jllyrkos penetrare JinuSy atqus intima tutus Regna Lihurnorum, et fontem fuperare Timavi ; TJnde per or a novem vajto cum murmure mantis It mare proruptum^ et pelago premit arvajonanti: Hk tamen rile urbem Pataviyjedefque locavit Tcucrorum^ et genii nomen dedityarmaque fixtt.
Virgil, ^neid.
u
C c
I. e.
'-*^»'*^^
.-^^.^•^i^r^
1^6
A Journey from Venice to Genoa
1. e.
What time, great King, fliall terminate our wees ? Safe could Anterior break through all his foes, Pierce to the bottom of the Illynan bay, View Kingdoms, where Lihum'ian Princes fway ; Pals the nine mouths of fierce Timavus weaves. Which rores upon the hills and o'er the valleys raves, And there could fix ; and on that foreign ground, Great Padods tow'rs. for after ages found ; New name the people, and free from all alarms H|ng up, in peace, his confecrated arms-
In thofe days when the art of Navigation was but in its infancy, and the Mariners very unwillingly parted w ith the fight of land, Antemr was forced to keep clofe, and creep along the Coaft of Peloponnejus^ and Eptrus^ and then fail by the IllyrLw, and Lihurman Shoars, which are very uneven and troublefom to deal with, being full of Creeks, un- fate Bays, Md Rocks ; befides very many Iflands of various iliapes Whereas iHie had croiled over to the Italian coall,lie had had a nearer voyage, and fayled with plealiire all along an even, bold, bn.ve
Ihoar.
The people of Padoa,%x^ well pleaicd with the thoughts of their Ar- cient founders and Proi2,enitors, and they ftill preierve the tombci .„.. tenor^ near to which at^ prclcnt rtands the Church of vSaint La^vrev^r?., and in their publick fhows they will fliU be reprefentirg fomething ox Troy^ and the old Trojans'^ and in one place I law a horfe of wood, a- bout twenty foot high, in imitation of the old Trojan horfe ; bur. 3 fuppofe,nothing near fo big as the firft original : Yet when I confider that above eleven hundred years alter the deftrud:ion of Zr^v, ^^ hen Touns and Buildings were very much amplified and improved, Pi m- fey coming in Triumph, could not enter even the great Triumphal gates di Rome it lelf in a chariot drawn by Elephants, an Animal ihat leldom or never comes to be ib high as this Horfe, it may well be fup- pofed that they could not have received, even this poor model of the firft great one into the old town of Iroy without pulling dov\ n their
walls. '^'
The City diPadoa was always a friend to the Romans^ and did them great fervice in their w^ars againll: the Qalli^ Semnes^ the TJmlnans^ Boiam^ hfuhres^ CimLrians and Carthaginians^ and ftuck clofe to their Interelt till the time of the declination of the Roman Empire ; When Attila the powerful King ot the Huns with fire and Iword dellroyed it ; and when after divers years it was rebuilt by the favour of Narjes^ the Eunuch, General to the Emperor Julliman, it was again lamenta- bly ruined by the Lvvgolardim Princes, who by Ihootang arrows, with firebrands fixed to them, let the City on fire, and took it. But under the Empire ot Charles the great, and bis luc^ellors, it arole out ot" its alhes again, and fiourilhed tor a long tune ,- beirg governed firft by Confuls, and then by a Podcfta, untill the time ot their dreadful Ty- rant £^c<?/7//?, who harrafled, banilhed, tormented, and n^aflacred the Inhabitants, cramming their own Wells -Authxn the City,tuil with their
mangled
l//i' ir////\: rr^ l'i/-L/ur .
I
r t
' t
\ '4'
A Jonrney from Venice to Cicnoa.
iq;
mancled bodies, and amon^il other (cvcrities, upon an an^ry diftafl, acrainil them, Hew ten thoufand oF them in one dav at l^cnnm. But notwithftanding thele cruelties, they recovered their hberry agam alter the death of £^c^///«, and by degrees became very powerluJ, having under their jurifdidion, Ficenza, I'erona, Trent, Trevijo, Ichre Bellu- no Ceneda, Seravalla, Choza, Bufwo, with its territories, all the J'ok' fwe or /'e«/«/«/^,and the greateft part ot Fnt,U, uitli other importani Places • when in tlic end, Alarfilio di Curaru made himieli Capitamn or Governor of the City. This noble Family or the Camirch, very powerful in thefe parts, came from their Caille oi BajfMo.md hved m Padoa where they became very ccnriderable and iiding w ith ti c Pop^^ aeainil: the Emperor Frederick the fecond, tliey were dn\ en out by E-diin but when upon the luccelsful attempts of the lioryiu.i Legate, An(edin\ commander under Ezzdlim was overthrown, thev were again reftored, dignified, and tllabWhed in the government ol Fudoa ; which they polTelied, with (bme variety ot Fortune, trom one to ano- ther in their own Family, for about an hundred iears, in tiie conclu- fion of which, they were leized on by the f'enctmns, who thouglit rit to put Franajco Novella, and his Sons to death in tlie year 140,. And after this manner, by having totally extinguiilie.l the noble Family ot the Carrareli,\\''\x\\o\xi lear of any further claim,or difpute,thcy poliei!- edthemlclvcsoftheCity o^^Pado^, and hold it in their hands to this
^The Buildings at Padoa, both publick, and private, are very ccnfide- rable • for moft of the City is buik upon Arclies, making handlcm Port /cos or cioyfters on each fide of the ftreet ; alter the manner ot the houfes in the Piazza of Convent Garden, which at all times atiord a good dcff^.c againil the Sun, and Rain,and many ot the houles are pamted on the outfide,with very good Hiftory-Painring in Frejco ■ their Churches are tair,and divers well adorned ; The Dome, or Cathedral Church is large, feated near the middle of the City ; endowed, and mishtily enriched by the Emperor Henry the tburth ; wliofe Emprefs Beru lies buried here- The Revenues of this Church at prelent arc reckoned to amount to jj hundred thoufand Crowns a \ear ; and be- fides the Monuments of many eminent perfons, they preierve here the body of St. Darnel, of Ordinal PHeo da Pratta, and ot Caruinal
Francelco Zabarella. .^ , , re j ^a
The Church of St. Antomo is vifited by perfons far and near, and ^-j. ^„,/,„,-, the exquifite Defign, artificial Carving in Marble the handlom Qiure church « ..- and rSi Ornaments make it worth the feeing. The top o the Church ^^- is made up of fix Oz/.^/Vs covered with lead; the Chappel ot St. Ante- mo is nobly fet out with twelve marble pillars,and a rich root. i5etvveen the Pillars are carved the miracles of this Saint, who lies interred un- der the Altar, upon which ftand kv^n Figures made by Titian Ajpctti a 20od (latuary of P^^/t;^, and behind the Altar there is a moixcxc-cl- X^tBaffo relievo Aonc by Sanfovinus, Tullim Lomhurdus, v^d ..m- pazna yeronenfis. Over againll the Chappel of bt. Antonio ftands the Chappel of Saint F^lix ; and his tomb nobly wrought, with coioureu marble, and the whole fplendidly adorned, with the paintings ot the hiahly celebrated Giotto. The chief ReliHues ,n this Church are tiie Tongue and Chin of St Antonio, ^Uoth dipped m the biocd ot our oaviour, Three thorns of his Crown, and a piece ol tlic wood o^ tiie
•M^f^'id^-
..--, =^ ■-Jih.J*
r^aeic.C:*;
»■■'■.
"t
1^8
A Journey from Venice to Cicnoa.
Crofs, fome of the hair and milk of the hXc^cA VIr.rm ^n i (X ^.~7' blood of the nnarks of St. Frana. Betc'c tt"^^ ^t'of^ fch ;ch there .s a handlom brafs ,Sratu« on H< rlcback, n>^re(lnt ^^t^c n ca l^enet.an General G,tte^eU.S,. Aut no, h^•ecl (ix .Ind thirty vearfdv cd upon the thirteenth of >.-, 11:51, and was canon Jc^bvW Crs^ory the ninth in the City oi Spoleto, iz^-r ^^ ^ "P"'
The convent of the black Monks of St. W./i>/ m,v compare wirh moft m /../, ,. and their Cl^urch dedicated to Sa.,. 67./?^? buikby
and Martyr, daughter to nt.na.o of this Gtv ; ihi iuiirTd Marfw' dom in the time oM/..v«...., the Emperor. In this Church tJi^ e Tre ft 11 prelerved as they lay, the body of St. 7..x-., the Evrrnel of Sr ^/.^/.^/^.,thc Apoftle,of two of the Innocent t h, Idren of /vS / the converter of thele Countries to the Chriftian FaTthand ttt7""' ofPa^oa ; of Ahx.mu, their Ibcond R, hn. 1 ? r^ ^''^'"P'
The Front of this Church lookfZ a 'Sus p ace catreTp'^f ^t /a r.I/e, where the Gentlemen meet in^herCoachcs in r I ^^ '^' for their pleaiure In a handfom room or bury 4' p.^^;^,™^^^
rumentsof the ^XocZ^^^^^ ^'^ ^^--^o-
to y... King ofCjprL, and of /':;.:;%Ir^;i ^TpKIoSi?''"
///^o«'f /I'/r.//,;. where there nrr rNirtv w . K'J-^f l.iiolopher
ing. L. Certc del Capuan)o is fpk^did^ ami u^s' T P T'^' ''^' ^''■'■ C.rr.re/i. The />./.!. ^.//, /.^^XiZ the Co ts o '?V^ ^'^ held, IS very large, beautiful, and highly confderaSrhn/^-^".' '^ and within; being built of Marble 4h r^u" S' ^^^ vvithin there are Heads and Infcriptions for d ve s em men PerJn '"1' this City ; the length hereof ,s zc6 Foot arl the hrS ?.i «; r' °^ any PUJar or fuppo?tin the middle '^'^'^' ^^ ^'^^^^"^
The Umverfity of P,do,, was founded In the Year t„. in i Emperor /-nv/.r/rahe Second ,• and the Scho k .Sr ^'J'f ''^^ containing one Quadraneie wi^h r^„ r n n '^'^ ^^^^^ =^"^ '=^''5^,
and befidfs handStS; on'l "" Vdl T^^:^'' '"' ''^'^ ^ Anatomical Theater. The Phyflrk rL £ ' T "^ 7^'^ convenient uallcd about, and w^ell SSred wS^^pfants TltT/ f ^T^ "'^-^e, been Men of Note as A/oyf,, Afl/T .; r ^'''^^'^' ^"''''^ ^avc
////g/«y. -* ' ■'f '^'^ ^ipinus, and Joannes Fef-
The ^rfw^, or old Amphithcflfpr of p,v • « • .
remarkable ,- and the remain of flm. r ^' '! 'P Antiquity very ftill m the Gardens backward but d/e 'J ^'^' ■^?^'^ ''' ^° ^^ ^^^^^ /'.^/..., are preferved mti^e re; and em^^rv 'V'/'^' '""^ ''^^ ^'^°^<^ there is bu.l a handiom P-Jace .h. p ^ ^ ^ "l""^.'' °"^ ™^ ^^'^'^<^^^
lite
i4 Journey from Venice to Cknoa.
15)9
fite to the houle, the handlomc prolped ot it, and the cl.ar Avenue to it, Is extraordinarily iarpri^ing, and extream y noble, and [ could nc.t ima- nine that any Gentleman would ever delire to havaa taircr Court-yard ? hishoufeiian the Ipacious plam Arcn. ot an old Roman Amphithea- ter nor a be ter Wall than a high intire handfom P../i«;^,the ike to vvhich perCs IS not at this day any where elle to be leen. And I mul Ircely conS That of the Remains and Ruines of twelve old Amphitheaters, which i have feen m.y felt, I have not met with any one that comes near it for in the Amphitheater at Dout m Foulou, which is cut out ot a Rock and being of a imaller dimenllon, and part ot the bottom being filled up! there is no vifible beauty of the fodmm the ld<e may be aid X of that at m^^z^x. near the river Varus, and that at Pu^^zuolo That Tmmcs IS tilled up with dwelling houles, m luch manner that the u^.per feats only are dilUndly vifible. The Amphitheaters oi Bourdc Zl XMndes;Arlcs.Gar^gl:ar,o. that ^t Ror^e near to the C hurch ot S.Cr.c. in G/.n/././.^., and others arc at prelent lo much ruined, that nothing of this naturediltinguilhable is to be expedted ; nay even atethe Arem at ^'.r^;;., and the great /".#.., cr Don,nuns\^- Seater at Heme, the ground is now nien lo higli,. that tlie Po^h^ r^ "a pr cent eSier bm-ied, or diffigured. But as the .^,... at i .- Zs clear, and evident m this prt ; fo is it wanting m all the re A : and le hat deiires at this day to view all the farts o an Amplnthea- ter muft "ot fee one, but many; and by joynmg them together in his' thoughts he mav colled the figure, proportion, and dimenhons ofthislumptuous fort orbuildingot the old A'^;«./«5
From the Walls of f.^.^r, there is a plcalant Profpcd cf a plain Country to the North, Eaft, and South ; and oi the £^^p«..« Hills to the Wett which fupply the Town with variety ot Plants, and great Numbe of Vipers.^ At a few Miles diflance are the hot Baths ot Abano and the Mineral drinking W aters ol Alo.ie Ortone as alio /W.r- c1;.r0^l'./s Country Houle, which we law with great delight, it be- nfvv-ell dehgned, and accommodated w.th a go,od Armory, a Theater of Comedies, handiom Stables, and a Tennis-court^ and nobly paint- ed both within, and without, by that great MaRer, Tadok eroneie
Lcavint; the Ancient City of Pacloa, m the Two 1 houfand, Seven Hmidred and Eighty Fifth Year after its hrft Foundation, according to SvncompuVand TraveUing Eighteen Miles through a truit.ul Country, we cLe to the plealantCitv ot V.enza, a place worth the '^'-^ ■ to""by realon that f ./W//a hath here Ihown great skillm Archi- teduTe inhis Rotunda, in imitation of the / .«//^..« at AV,«., m his Theate rexadiv proportioned to the Und .Rules ot Building, and other fair Houfes in the Town. There are alfo two Arches worth the ob- e ving one near the Gate, behind which there is a noble a cent up to L^hlma del Monte, and another in campo Alartw. This City is fiSdvndi Nobility and Gentry, and drives a great Irade in making Silk but is not ofanv confiderable Strength.
The i'l'... ^clla ^St^^crtu is as beautitul a place as can well be con- trived, and beiides its being large enough to receive all the Gentry m an Evening, and to have Tilting, and Turnaments pertormed in it i r, beaunhed with the exquif.te Front of the Falazzo delta Rag^one ot the Slws I'alace, and alio with the Buildings of the /)/../. deilu Fte- ^afwhere Money is lent out without ufe to the pooier lort. ^_^^^^^^
MiiMilHii
A - V- '"^' ^
-t
f ■
Venna^
Aihefis.
»i
Z'/ffw^.? isanchBilhoprickefteemed at twelve thoufand Ducats a Year, and in the Cathedral, befides other Reliques, are prefervcd the Bodies of C^rpophorw;, and Leontitu, Martyrs of-' this Place ; but the mod celebrated Relique of all, is kept in the Church of the Sum a Cornmi, belonging to the Domi^kam .• It is one of the Thorns of our Saviour's Crown, given by Saint Lewis, King of France, to Bartolo- tneo Breganza, a native and Biihop oiVicenza.
Tlie City of Ficenza, or Fkenf/a, is watered with the River B^c^ chig//one,and Rerone.or Eretems.h^Mts two other pretty Streams called the Aftkhello, and Sertola, which highly confer to its delightful Situ- ation, and Convenience : but by reafon that there are divers Hills very near, it can never be made ftrong, or able to make any fignifi- cant Refiftance ; and to fpeak the truth, it hath really been forced lb many times, by every next bold Intruder, that few Cities,of this beau- ty, and perfed-ion, have been oftncr raviihcd. It is thought to have been built by the Galli Senones, m the time oi Tarciuinius Fnfcm • but moft Authors reckon it to be more Ancient, and will have it to be one of tlie twelve Cities built beyond the Afemines^-j the old Tuf- f.7w ; and tliat the Gauls poflefTed it not, till the Tufcans were driven out. Thefe in procefs of time yielded it to the Romans, who enjoyed It long, even till the coming of Attila the Hun, who notably fack- ed, and plundered it. The next to thefe that were Lords and Mafters ot Ficenza, were the Ofirognths; and afirer them the Lombards • Till the time tiiat Defiderius, the lafl of the Lomhardian Kings, having left his fon Aldigier in this City, was taken prifoner by Charles the great • and u lien it had ferved Charlemaigne, and hisSucceflbrs with various fortune, in time it recovered its Liberty, and fet up for a ir^e City - till the Emperor Frederick coming upon it of a fudden, took,and burnt It. Next to hvraEzzdnn ruled over it ; then the Padoans; then Mafli- ro ddla Scala firll Signore di Ferona^und his Family after him till Gw vartmGaleazzo nfconte, the firft Duke of ^//^w, feized upon it whofe Dutchefs Catharma, after the death of her husband, kt them a^am at I iberty, and abfolvcd them from their Oath of Allegiance, when upon Various Conlultations in whar manner they fhould govern themfelves for the future and whether or no.they ihould unite with tlie Swi- zers ; He,;rico Caprafavio\ Party prevailed, who' perfuaded tiiem to give themfel ves Voluntarily to the Venetun ; by means of which free confent (;f theirs, at lafl they enjoy at prefent greater immunities, and privileges than mofl of their neighbouring Cities.
l-romricenzawe went to rerona,a noble.ancient.fpacious City,of about fix Miles round, well built, and now handfomly fortified by the Fe„e nans with great Bashons. It hath three Caftles, or Forts; two upon the hi I, and one by the River fide,- many ancient and many hand- fom Churches,ftately Convents and Buildings, both publick and private and IS very well watered with the pleafant River Aiche or Etfhe Athel Jis, Adige, or Adice. j ■> ■
The^ River .nthefis is a noble River, which ariilng above in the high Kha:tian Mpes and pafTing all along through thc>«;//x Venu Jla comes rouling down by Trent, and then winds , and turns within the City of Ferona; and afterwards, pa/Ting through the Fens near the n, enters the AdriaNck Sea; and Lny Authors rcport,That the great Incur^on of the Cminans, was made by the
fides
A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
20 1
Trt flitors o ?; ' /^ ''^f'^^'^'"'^ -".v-^.,r,and divers other good Tranflators or Hutarch, as alio that Cat./u, laid encamped unon thi- R.ver,to h,nder tlieir hirtlier Invafion ; nay lome proceed to nient n atnumpnal arch c reded at /'™, for O... MaL hs V cW " f!ic(e quarters: FortwW«c the Conful, Colleaue with cZT A^'- uho marched ng.nll the .V./., defpn.nng of ba^ S" o^it^^l
to feveral Parties, he might very much weikf-n hi,^/„ir 7
fently into /..,/,, and plaa^d his^4rmy by he RiJ ^AS "fT^'"'"- where clofing up the paflages o. both fid'efof die Rive; t'ith^f^^^^^^^^^ Fortifications,hc made a bridge wIk rcbv he mir hr .im ^Zc ^^^ fide, if the Enemies, having forced the L row Pa/ W t u" '"'l'' and (form them. But the CW.. J/cime ^n «^^^^^^^ and Contempt of their Enemies, tl^tniTcrlvnn. ^°^'^?'^'' Strength and Courage, rather than 'out o^N^n! J, t ^ey t't nS -"-^ in the .*>bowrcs of Snow ; and through rhp ir^ ^^a a -^ «^ n^iccd ed up to the top of the' Mountains^ ndfor;itltnc7;r"''' 'V^' broad Shields under their bodies, thev let thaTiSveffli ^ T^ T highefl precipices down thole vaflDefcent -and when ^t^T■ '^ cd their Camp at a little d.ftance from the' ttZ ZaT'""^ 5""^ PafTagcthey begun to pour in upon thelt„f.",'nd Giant !il7r^ ^"" up the neighbouring Hills, and pulling up f rees Iw the R ' T""^ great Trees t o, ^ ^ i -^rees Dy the Roots, and
Quale s Aerjic iJquentia fiumina circum Sive Pad I ripn. At hejin f,H proper amcrnum Conjurgunt gemimt Quercus, intonfaque Ccio ' Attolant capita, et fidlimi verike muant.
Such overtopping,uncut Oakes as grow By pleafant ,jf/,./,,, or th' liquid Streams of />.. And higher than the clouds, their lofty heads do'tlirow Which ieem to llrike at Heaven, and nod at us belov^' '
And throwing in heaps of earth, and great Corners of Rocks wh.r. by to turn the courfe of the River, and heaving in hu^ mafrflnnr; which beat aga.nfl the (Ide of the Bridge, and broke down thpfi n' ters,the Roman Souldiers left their Camp,and fled -yet notwhfe^ all this,there mav lome doubt be made whether rhev Pn^.! r / , '^'^^^ fides of tins River,and Plutarch hTmS^f-Idi not L I h. « ' ^' '^' which the CW.....,de(cended, the River "./"X bu 'I ^'"i^'^^^^^ m ; the River .,.,/,, or loja ; a River whicl { 'a ^^ diT^* T"*' anypartofthe^./.i.;3ndariringinthf:.^^^^^^^^^^^ the Lugo maggiore,ox Lacus Ferhanus ■ and is next to thp \\v^Tr Lelnn which pa/Tes by FercelU, a'nd fallH teru^ S^ into the^'' and when Baon.x, Km" of the Cir»hr,n„. ^1, ,, '^'^^^/"to tlie Po :
neralsto fight, and bid^hem a.p ottXir t'^d p^ J/'
rtus returned this anlwer. that although it were n^ th/'o^' ^^'\- the Rornans to let tlieir Enemies know,where and when they mt^H f give battel ; yet he would at this time accept of Sa^icUe n ^ pomtedtomeethim, in tliree days after, 1 .i^lS^^^:^^ ^^fj^
V.fg. ?, .^,
T
202
A Journey from Venice io Genoa.
I
where there was fpace enough for both Parties to iliow their valour j
and to determine this Controverly in a iair, and open Held ; and
where he gave a total overthrow to one of the greateft Armies peiv
haps that ever invaded Italy ; and hereby it fcems to nne,that this great
drove oiCiprihna^s, or a good part ot tliem, pafled over Mount 6am.
pion or Mom Sempromus -, from u hlch mountain the River Atijo takes
its rife • and the Dclcription of the vaft l^recipices, and lliding down
in their Shields, a. it were a la ramafe, is by no means agreeable nor
can it any ways be allowed for a tolerable Delineation ot the paliage
into Italy by Trent, where the road doth no where lye over any
fuch vaft Mountain; but the terrible delcnption by Mr Ramt^^d.^nd
Mr Lafeh, of the bad way, and lU palTagc between Bnga, and Domo,
over Mount Samp/on is very fuitable to the ancient account.
As the pleafant River At/pejis is very ferviceable to rerona, io the four handfom Bridges over it, in this Town, are both ufeful, and orna- mental ; and the Walls about it, in a great mealure, remarkable ; though rero^a being now very ancient, there is no good account at this day, to be found ; who was the founder of them, or by whom, or at what time, they were firft built, it is manifeft however, that they long fmce did good fervice, and that in the civil wars of the Romans^ betv\ een defar, and Fowpey ; AuguHus^ and Antomus ; FitelUus^ and Vefpajian; Severus, and Julian; and others-, this wasa confiderable place of ftrength, and Tided with C^far againft Pompey.took Auguflus^ part againft Marciis Antomus, was for Vite!lim '^%nv& P^ejpajian^ & long after held out for fome time for Maxtntim againlt Conflantme the great. The Emperor Gdliems took llich particular care in rbrtifying Verona, that he left his name to the Tow n, and divers Infcriptions upon the wail ; for the Roman Empire being much divided in his time, and the force of the foreign Nations encreafing in many parts, he exprefly commanded, to render the walls of this place ftrong, which being feated in the jaws of the Alpes, w ^s more likely to be fwailowed firll by the Northern Nations. Iheodoricus Amalus, that great Conqueror, and excellent Kingof the Go^/^j was in fucceeding times, marvelloudy pleafed with Ferona, amplified and adorned it, rebuilt and fortified its walls, which were rendred, notwithftanding, in after ages, more con- fiderable, by the Emperor Cbarles the great^and his Son, King Prppin ; who made this the head City of Italy. In latter times, Aliertus Sea-- tiger, brother to Majiinus Scaliger, the firft Sovcraign Lord of Verona^ and his Son, Cams Qrandis more fully enlarged and fortified Ferona^ againft the Incurfions of the Germans: And the Venetians^ laft oi all have built large Baftions about itftrongly faced with Brick.
The City within is convenient and beautiful, the Piazza a hand- fome long Square, the Streets large, and the Town being built part up- on tfe Plain, and part upon Hills, makes the variety of the Prof- pedt more pleafing, looking fomewhat Uke the beautiiul City oiLyon in France. There arc many good Houfes ; Conte Augu{Nno Gmsio\ Pa- lace is particularly lair, and his Gardens delightful, in which I faw the Aloe Plant in Stem and Seed, the Stem or Stalk being about twenty Foot high ; the Churches are beautiful, among which Saint AnaBafim is one of the faireft ; and the Catlicdral and many others cf them are antient, this City being converted to the Chriftian Faith by Saint Eu-^ prepius. their firft Bifhop, Seventy vears after Chrift. St. Zeno, their
Eighth
A Journey from Venice to Genoa
^o^
Eightli Bifliop, is their Patron, wlio lived in the time oiGa/I/enus, and Four and Thirty of their Bilhops befides arc Canonized. Peter Martyr was alfb Born in Ferona, who was alTallinatcd between Mu'an and Co- mo, was Canonized by Pope Tmwccnt the Fourth, and lies fplendidly Entombed in Milan, Befides tlicle great Religious Men, others, though not fo Famous for Piety, have, notwithftanding, been living ornaments to their City ; among which the excellent Poet C. Falerius Catullus 13 one of the firll, whom Ovirl mentions.
Mantua Firgilio gaud t, Ferona Cattdhh And Martial complements in this manner-
Tantnm magmfuo debet Ferona Catu/Io, Quantum parvafuo Mantua Firgilio,
C. Cornelias Nepos, was alfo born in the territories of Ferona, to whom Catullus gives his Book.
Cui dono lepiflum novum lihellum, Arido modo pumice expolitum^ Cornel i ? ttbi, namque tujolebas Meas cjfe aliquid putare nugas.
Cornelius ISfepos, excellently skilled in Antiquity is faid to have writ- ten a Chronicle of the Roman Affairs, and other works, and the Lives of Illuftrious perfons, among which the life of Pomponius Atticus is on- ly extant.
C. ^Emilius Macer, a good Poet,was alfo of Ferona. He lived m the
time of Augustus Ctvfar, and wrote of Plants,Birds and Serpents.
1
S^pe fuas Tolttcres legit mihr grandior AEvo^ Quicque nocet ferpens, qua juvat herba, Ma cer.
The next is Luciits Fitruvius, a great Archite<a and wiiofe Statue With other famous men of this City is fet over the Court. The more known Marcus Fitruviusy who wrote the ten Books ot Architecture,
was oi Rome. ,./->• j r f
Caius Pliniiis Secundus was alio an honour to this City; and ot lat« ter davs many learned men by being born andliving here, have added much^to its credit,as torello Sarayna,&: Onuphnus Panvimus,who wrote exprefly of the Antiquities of their own City. Jeronimusy Fraca/ion-^ us, Joannes fiapt/fla Montanus, Antonius Fumanellus, Alexander Bene-- dlius, Qabncl Zerbus, Joannes Arculanus who lived a hundred years here, Guarims, Joannes A>itomus Pantheus, Joannes Baptijta Bagolinns^ and the admired learned Lady, Ifota Nogarola,who among other trea- tiles wrote a dialogue, in which Ihe mgenioufly difcourfes who finned
firft, Adam or E've. o 1 j-
The Emperor Philippus was flain at Ferona, by his own Souldicrs. There was a Colony fetlcd here by Pompey ; and one Pompeianus held out the Town againft Conllantine the great in the year ;xv The Em- peror Falentinmn^akcr that he made his Brother Falem partner with him in the Empire and placed him in the Eaft, vifited this City, and
O d % Theodorick^
Ovid.
t '..
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A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
TheoJrrkk,x\\c Conqueror of Itjly and great King of the Goths lived long [xtrcFbcidia^ daughter oi Falentiniatt^tht third, and oi EuAoxia^ hvcd the latter part of her timejdyed here and was buried in the Church of St. 5/^^^-«,which was formerly their Cathedral in which Church lye alfo buried one and twenty Bifhops oi Verona^ forty Martyrs put to death in Dioclefians Perfecution, and four of the Innocent Children But there are other things which lUll add to the beauty of this City.
Vrhihus Italics pricflat Verona p*perh'rs^ yE^dksJngenio^ Flumine^ Monte ^ Lacu.
i. e.
Hills, Rivers, Lakes, Buildings and Arts do grace Noble Verona above any place.
The Lacus Benacus, or Lago di GarJa, is a very confidcrablc Lake, near this place, which ilretches it felf from Pefchiera^ on the South, Thirty five Italian Miles to the North, and is in fome places Fourteen Miles broad, and the Winds often blowing fiercely from the Neigh- bouring Hills, make it rough, and troublefome, like a Sea.
Flu^ilus ^ fremitu^ affurgens^ Benace^ marino,
Cleopatra had once a defign to carry her Ships and Veflels crofs the Country through ^Egypt^ out of the Mediterranean into the Red-Sea, over that iHhmuSy or neck of Land, which divides Jfrka from ^-:Jiay which would have been a njtable exploit : yet confidering that jEgypt is a flat Country, which renders the defign more feafible, and th;it the Territory about this Lake is very Hilly, it is an acflion no lefs to be ad- mired, which the Venetians efEdtually performed, when they brought their Ships and Galleys out of the ^rfV/a/^/c^ over Land into the Lago di Garda^ to engage in a Naval Fight, upon this notable Lake, with Filippo Vifconte^ Commander of the Milan Forces.
There are divers handfom Towns and Villages upon the fide of the Lacm BenacsiSj as Lacijium^ Bardolinumy famous for the pleafant Bar^ dolin Figgs, Gar da, which gives it the modern name, Malfefenum-i Ripa^ Ttijculan^m^ "^hQYC there zrc flill fome remains oi old Benacusy which gave it the ancient appe^ation, MatemiAm^ Salodiumy D^fentianum^ a po- pulous Place, and of good Accommodation, Pifcheria^ through which the River Mincius partes, and laftly the ruines ot" old SlrmiOy upon a neck of Land, which runs into the Lake, where flood formerly the be- loved pleafing Villa of Catullus.
Peninfularum Sirmio^ InfularumjuQ OcelUy &c.
The beft Fiih in this Lak' , are the Eels, the Trouts, and a Flih pe- culiar to it, called a C^/"/'/(?»e', which is thought to delight in fome par- ticular Earth, Soyl, or Mineral at the bottom thereof, leeing that it will not eafily Uve, and thrive in any other place.
After the negligent reign of r:////e*w//x, whea the Thirty Tyrants fprung up, and the remote Provinces of the Empire had taken the li- berty
A Journey from Vienna to Genoa.
205
Lcrry to do u Ii.at they pleafed, th.e Alma>n made ufe of this fealonablc Opporruniry, and breaking into It /v, with an Army of two hundred tliculand men, the luccecding Emperor, Flavius Claudius^ made a (lout refin:ancc, and at length ovcrtlirew them totally near this lake of te>/acus,
Mons B.ddu<^ or Monte Baldo near Verona^ is efiecmcd the moft ^o\xr\z sMuu confRierable Hill for Plants^and Medicinal Herbs of all the Alpes ; and the Calderian Baths are a further Eafe and Convenience to this an- cient City.
Verona is called Vcrcna t^vhile^ and Verona Antica^ and very ancient it is without donbt ; for Ji^Jlin fays cxprefiy, That the old Gauls budt MiLwy Cowoy Brejeia^ Verona^ Bergamo^ Trent^ and Vicenza ; and Livy moft particularly, That the Gauls pofil^fied thcmlelves of thofe places where Brefeu and Verona Hand at prefent,butour Modern Italian Writers who arc very unwilling that thele fpruce, polite Cities fhould owe their beginnings to any rough tramontane Nation,are very eager in afierting, That they were built long before that time by the ancie-^t Tufcans, but allow that they were atterwards pollciled, and en- larged by the Gauls, and that Vera^ a noble old Tu'can, laid the firll Foundation of this place, and called it Verona^ after his own Name, It was long after this, under the Romans^ in the hcighth and glory of their Empire ; and in the declination of ir,this City ihifted indifierently, till Art/la took and lacked it; and when divers others fet themlelves up for Emperors^and Sovereign Commanders^as (Aybrius^ Glycerius^Au" gujlulus aiid Odoacery King of the Heridiy and Turingi , it fcrved firil one, and the "• another, till Zeno the Emperor, fcnt that renowned Chiiilian Prince, Theodorickj King of the Goths^ into Itaiy^ who con- quered and polleiled it, as the due reward of his valour; and by tliis means Verona came to ferve the Goths, till Totilas^ and Tevas^ the laft of their Kings were overthrown iind flain by Narfes^ the Eunuch,who iiot Jong after called in the Loml?ardSy being dilobliged by the Em- prels Sophia^ who endeavoured much to have him recalled, inftigated her huk;and, the Emperor Jujlinian^ againft him, and fcnt him word after all his glorious Victories, and Services for them, That Ihe would make him come home like an Eunuch as he was, and Spin amongft: her Maids ; to which Sarfes returned this Anfwer,That he did intend it, as fooii as might be, and that he would Spin her fuch a Web, that ihc, nor all her Maids together ihould never be able to unra- vel ; and immediately lent to Moinus. the Valiant King of the Lorn- bardsy who had lately overthrown Cunimundas^ King of the Gepidic^ and iiad taken his fair daughter Rofammd to wife, but withal had Slain the King her Father , and made a drinking Cup of his Skull. Alhoinus was at that time poilelled of Pannomay but upon the invitation of t^arfes came into Italy with his whole Force and Attendants, and took all the Country called formerly Gallia Cijalpina^ and began the LongoLardian Kingdom, which prevailed in Italy for about two hundred Years. This ^/-5(?/««J being excefiivety merry,and plealant at Verona^ wh.re he had placed the chief leat of his new Kingdom, amongft other Frolicks, he made poor Queen Rojamund^ one day, drink out of her Fathers Skull, which fo digufted her,that file periwaded Helmichild to afiift her in the murder of her hufband, for tiic reward of which adion (he promifed herfelf in marriage to
hiniy
u
AM
(
him with the Kingtlom o^ Lomlarrly : but as loon a-s it was pcrtormed, they had hereby rcndred themlelves lb intolernbly odious to the Lon- .rolardian nobles, and people ; that th^y v\ere forced to fly away to jLotginm the Exarch o^ Ha-venna, who being at the firll Tight wondcr- jullv enamoured with the exquifite beaucv of Queen Rojam^nul, per- fwaded her to difpatch Helmuhild ^x\A accept or him, to uhich in this necelTitous condition, Ihe loon agreed, and v\ hen IldmkhiU was com- in*^ out of a Bath, and called tor drmk, Ihc had prepared luch a high pc^lbnous draught for him, that before he had drunk lialTof it,hc was lenfible of what was done, and laying hold ot her, forced her to drink the other half, whereby they both dyed together. After the Lorn- hards, Clur'es the Great, Pipi^, and the Bere^gari/^ and others placed their Royal Seats here ; and in the rime of Otho the hrft, it became a ' free City'. Then Ezzell-n came in, and tyrannized over them. Next to him, the Ancient Family of the Scal/gers, who for two hun- dred years together had lived here in credit and rcputc,and were at length advanced to the dignity of Sovereign Lords of Verona, which they held between two and three hundred years longer, and di- vers of their high railed Monuments are Hill to be {ttn in the ftreets of this City. Antonio x}i\^hS!i of this Family that reigned here, was driven out by G'touannl Galeazzo Vijconte, after him came Franc/fco di Ci7rrjrj,then the Venst'iam^-^^io loft it again to the Emperor Maxl- wf///rf«; but in Conclurion,in the year, 1517. this City gave it fclf up totally to the State of /'fi';^/6'i? under which they live happily at pre-
fent. The Amphi- g^t the greatcft remarkable curiofity, and the moft noble antiquity theater ac Vt- -^ y^^^y^^^ \^ the old K9man Amphitheater, the moft intire within fide, of any now ftanding, and one of the firft Magnitude when it was built, the defcription of which defervesa Volume by it lelf, the Building be- ing beyond, imagination glorious and whoever enters it at this day is prefcntly furprized with its magnificent Strudure, I have here inferred a Cut of it, as it may be imagined to have Ihown it felf, when it was firft built and intire; which if it had been then divided into two partsi* and one half removed li'om its Bafes, the infide of the other half wouldi: have appeared in this manner. It is called at prefent the Arena, it\^as aifo formerly named Amphitkeatrum and fometimes Cavea^
Yonu.
Prud,
Quid pulvh CavCizfemper funehris, © ilia Amphitheatralis fpeciacula trijiia pompce ,"
- ^\i
;i
f
A. Is the Ahar placed in the middle of the Arem^ in the perfecSa Center of the Amphitheater, a facred bufinefs. iM?.
Quid fanciiiis ara
Qitise lih^t egejium per mjjika tela cruorem ?
This holy Altar drinks of blood. By Myftick V\ capons fpilt, a flood.
This was dedicated to DiaiM Scythica^ to Saturn or to Mars ; Dei- ties that dehghted in the fpilling of Huxnan Blood, or to Jupiter Lati^ oris OT Stygcus.
Ha
Ul.
\ <.A
r/u- „^ /■..-,/,, . //„,/,_.,,,,.,. _^^ ;,,^_^^_
/.
IPfffT'
A Journey from Venice to Genoa. ^o?
IIu: fuHt (ielkiiC Jovii infernalis
B B B h t' e ^rena properly fo called, or the fandy floor of the ^^'^ '"'"'■ AmDhitheater, upon which the combatants fought : it was covered with fandto luck up the Blood,for if it had been paved \vith Mone or Dlailered upon great effuiion of Blood, the Gladiators would have been apt to fave Hipped or fallen down; but being ot Sand, or Gra- vel It was cahe to be turned, or raked away , which it leems they did fometimes j and this ALirtn,l mentions, Ipeaking ot a Lyon that broke out o? his Den and killed two Youths.
t^^am Jm tie tenera jirjemlu sorpora tiirbu^
Saftguoieam raHris ijute renovahat bumum, Savux et infelix juriali dcnte peremit.
Murtia mt% vidit maJHi Arena ttefas.
Two tender Striplings of the younger band. As they were raking up the bloodyland, A Lvon Hew, a fight more cruel ne'er Was' feen in Murs 'i Annphith'.ater,
They fometimes alfo made ufe of Stone duft ; but the extravagant Em erors, Can^uL, and Nero, caufed the^r.«u to be ftrow^d with vSr^ lion, and Gold duft, or with the dull oi a Mineral, which reiem- bled Gold The Figure of the Arena isOvaL In pacing it from one ex- treme to the otherri found, it to be ninety paces long ; twx, of my paSs make five foot ; and this is agreeabl. to the mealure of .m.^eur IZdeu and Joannes Carotus^thc Painter ot the Antiquities ot Fere S who ;;ckons it to be two hundred and twenty tour foot long, and onelundred and thirty five foot broad; but ^h.^ Arena oi Domains Amplmheater at Ror^i is a hunJred and titty of my paces long, or rhree hundred and feventy five foot. ^ „ . . . ^
The XLis walled about with a wall of thirteen or fourteen foot higTm which there are divers Portul.^C.CC. or little Gates,or Doors, ^^^^^¥^' SnSng to the inward Caves and Dens, from which the wild Bealb ufoallv come out with Swiftnefs, Force, and Violence into the Arena, and when^he tights are over, thole winch are left ahve are drivea back ag^n into their Dens, with feveral Wheels and Engines.
■4
Carriculi rotarumque verfata fades Leonem redigit in Caxmam.
?enca*
Nor is it to be much admired, that the force of the. Rota, and ^xirwhich is able to remove any thing, Ihould be powerful enough fo dive back a Lyon. This device, at prefent, being much improved a? S«?rwhere they place a man within a Monftrous green Dra- ron movei uron wheels , which runs upon the wild Beafts and &rthem back : and whikft the Lyons fometimes turn, and ftare ton this^ormidable machine, the man within thrufts two hg^iteJ Torches out of the eyes of the Dragon, able to out flare any Beaft Si to ihine more Harf^^gly than ^l- bright Go den /nyn d.eL^^^^^ Eye. In the h.unting and baiting of Lyons, m totraei ages,the> made
J
i.f
TJ « PuiTtHm
Sugmflkm In^erMtorir.
The Seats.
i }§*'
AJoumey fromVcnicc to Genoa.
ufe of great O.ai flat Shields, which coverTdThdT^S^TbSTrZ;:^ in this poftur • came on uafeen ; and if the I von were (> II 1^1 / to advance againft this moving wood -is he wn^nr ^''^'^' '!
overthrow one of the hunterf veTfliir 1,. w r ^°"/"""f' '"'^ covered w.h his Shield^e i^on'w.t'LS w' h Sn ''t!,^' liim and pawing the Shield, whileft the man lid in K '^ der .t. And the manner of this' hunting of Lvon" is t ly Ix S in Painting, in the Sepulchre of the AT.yL., Family Ja^fy Jifcover' ed in the Campa>,h dt Roma, whereby we miv u Herft/n^ difcover- h.gh value and delight,the Old RoZs LldTefe huntts and fi'.h'/
ftape^™ .he glafsa Hunfcan placed ^^t^'^l'^'^^li^:,
firft™foffc,;°4L?'' '^'" makes .he Ay;.„. behind which the
,.J^A ■"? °f'?e Amphitheater was fometimes richly elided hfjr T' '"!''''? f'i"'-^ of V-iflory pUced upon it, a"7 $?,.„„ handfomly contrived to throw forth tineed and rerf,™,,) L fprinWe and refrelh the Knights, and Sjor? an?t„ .fcd: ol .be F<,J,um, .here vyere placed nets, and loofe rowlers, « liich tnr ned npon an m,, .o hinder rhe wild Beads from climbina ud »„d whereby .he Lyons, Tigers, Leopards, wlien they le H "1o7a&d
^. Is the Suggesfum Tmperatoris, the PuIpit,Seat, or Throne of rh^ Emperor, a httle Chamber, or Box, built for the Emperor Wrfon in wh.ch he might either fit privately, and fee throughTtt Les or h^^e
made by juhm Cafur, and ,s mentioned by Snetonius amonr other exceflive honours which he received, and which wereThoulht too great by fome, that is, that he permitted his Statue o be fcf up a mongft the Kings, and a Throne,to be built for him in the ch"f plc^ of the Amphitheater and when in Nero^s time by tSe ht ofta chines,they attempted to 2.^ Icarus, the poor fellow that was o flv croft the Amphitheater, fell down n^ar the EmperoTs h one nd im^ brued It with his blood : But Trajan had the loweft Seats o? he Th™: ers. Amphitheaters, and arcus's made pbin, and equal as at fi ft vvhere the People were highly pleafed to fee, not the Box "s formerly, wherein Great C^/.r far, but to fee him in perfon fitthig e! qua fly With the reft of the Nobility. ^ ^
The feats of the Amphitheater are next to be confidered, which in tli.s at /^....., at firft, were five and fbrty ; but three of he loweft rows *c now under ground. There remain vifible at prefcnt, all of '
good
-* * 4
'Rciini^ uhut u^huh there ar.^ rnc luinJrc? un? hvcntr^. Irclics an? as nunur '1\/Lrs r uj-tir in the uffCr rr:rc , ^mJ j ixC:r in the Icu^^Cr
o <—
//z
r/?^' upper rcn^c , ana jixci,' in the Icu^ct-
<^
\
A jour7iey from \ ^mcc to Genoa.
gooti .^tcne, lorry tuo, each ol them al(.ut half a yard higlh
F, t, are the lou'er Scats, appointed for ciic Senators, and Willi Virj^ins ; lor the Emperor Si^ro confidering, TV.-xt the Virgin^ devoted to the Goddels (Tf/tfy, were invited to the Olympian games, m/ade :n order, That the Veil al Virj^ins Ihould aho be allotcd leats in the Qychc- llru^ or mod honourable places ot the Amphitheater.
G. C. are t!ie £.///<?y//-/j, the middle places, icr t!:e E^iune-s i>;iy:xu^ the Seats appointed for the /{ywjw Knights , and Gentlemen; and there were OfTicers on purpole to place every one in his due Rank, xv.l chele werecall-^^d DiiFri}iatores^ and Tnluni volupt^tiim.
H. //. are t!ie Populana^ the Places for tlie Com.mon People, for the ordinary fort of both Sexes, and where the Women late, u horn their HusbanJs could not keep at home, and who wr.uid fiock in luch numbers as to fill the Amphitheaters up to the top, and bring Chairs* and Stools to fet upon the top ot' all, and in the roruco\ and Galien^s above.
ye'riimus ad fedes^ uli pulh fordidji veHe Inter jxmiHS.is f^tdahat turha Cathedrae
L L f. are the romitor'u^ or Iquare Iioles, or entrances, througii U'hich the Sped:at(,n*s came pouring in, to take their places ; for con- fidering chat rhe Amphitheaters were Buildings capable of receiving vafl numbers of People, (that o^ Titus at Romt^ being able to contain fourfcore chouland perfons conveniently} it was necelFary alio, that the Entrances Ihould be numerous, that the fpcdtators might come in and out without confufion, in this Amphitheater of VeronA in every ninth and tenth row of feats, there are rows oiFomltorui^ every one at an equal dillance from one another, eighteen in a row, which malce feventy two diftindl en"rances,to every one of which there is a peculi- ar Stair-cafe, coming out ii'om within the Arches, which liipport the Amphitheater ; befide all other Stairs, and Pallages within, and Afcents from one (lory to another, v\ hich alone is enough, to Ihow, that thelc were vail extraordinary Buildings.
L. L. L. are the rows of Arches witliin, bulk round t!xe Amphi- theater to fupport the Seats and upper Buildings.
M. M is the CxrusuUm^or upper Ga!lery,built for the Strength and ornament of the whole, into which they might retire, and walk, and refreili themfelves. This part is found but in lev/ Amphithicaters, and in thole only of the larger kind, and tlierc is but little remaining of ic at prefent in this, moil of it being thrown down by a great Earth- quake in the year eleven hundred eig'ity threCjas the Annah oi yeronci declare.
N". N. K, are the holes left in the building of the outward wall of the Amphitheater to (lick mads into, for the better fafcning of the Ropes, Say Is and Curtains to ihade the Spctllators ; for the Romans not wearing hats w ith brims when thev late long in thele open places, were olten injured by the Sun, which lorced fome to make ule oi Tbef-^ fdian Caps and Vmipre:Ia\^ till that at length Ci_ Catullus brought in the Mode o'l ufmg Sayl-clochs and Coverings of Linen to ihadc the Seats, which JuLus dcfar^ according to his Iplendid humour, caulcd to be made of Silk of various colourSj of Yellow, Red, :md
E e Crimion,
%09
p
2 10
A Jotmiey from ^'^nicc /o_Cicnoa.
Crimfon, and yet was exceeded herein by the Emperor Ni-ro, who or- dered his own pidure to be embroidered in thefe coloured Silks, in :hc pofture of Apollo driving the Chariot of the Sun.and round about hmi, the Stars, and Confttllations m Gold ; and Lucretiiu takes notice of the graceful, beautiful Ihades, which chelc coverings made forr.ewhat after this manner.
When purple Coverings, Yellow, or deep Red,
Over the Amphitheater are Iprcad,
VVhich mighty Malls, and flurdy Pillars bear ;
And the loofe Curtains wanton in the Air,
Whole Streams of colours from the top muH flow,
And with dirtlifcd beams ftayn all below.
The more the Curtains Ipread, the more the Dye
Rides ore the Silver Air, and courts the Eye.
Rich colours fpread themielves o'er every thing.
Each man's as glorious as a purple King,
But the outfide of the Amphitheater of rerona, was as fjlendid as the "infide, though atprclent x Portion of it only remains, as much as between, 0, and ?. By this fmall part hovvever th: whole is eafily known, efpecially in fo uniform a building as this. The out- fide therefore being all of marble, about a hundred and twenty foot high, confifted of three rows of Pillars and Arches , one over another, which opened into large walks, and fpacinus Porticos witii- in,' quite f^und the Building ; and above thefe three rows of Ar- clies, there was a handfom wall with Windows over every Arch, and Filallcr'^ o.er every Pillar beneath : each row confifted of feventy two Arches and fevcnty two Pillars of a great height; the upper row moreover is faid to have been adorn-ed with excellent Statues. But the outfide cf the Amphitheater at Nijmes, being the moll entire of any now land- ing I have alfo inferred a Cut of it, that nothing might be wanting to the clear undcrftanding of the manner ot thefe buildings : a 'd as t at at Verona, hath three rows of Pillars, and a wall above them, this at b^ifmes hath only two rows of I illars on the outfide, and the ll-ats withinfide reach up to the top of it, and it hath no Galleries above. To fupply this Amphitheater at Nifmes with water fufficient to repre- (cnt naval fights therein, the great Fo^.t du Gard was budt, which fupports an Aquxdud palling from one Mountain to another, a Cut whereof is alio inferted, it being one of the moll magnificent Roman. Antiquities now (landing in Europe. ^ . , , , . ,
Thefe u onderful Strudrures were firft railed by the Romam, tor the more convenient exhibiting of Shows and Fights to the People; and thefe Fights were cither between Beads and Beads, Men and Beads, or between Men and Men. The Fights betu een Beads and Beads are dill continued; tor the Gentlemen of yetona take that care ot this Ancient Venerable Building, that there is not at prefent one Stone wanting of all the Stats within; and uhen they would fee any drange hunting, hgliting,or baiting o Beads, they prcfcntly enter their own old Amphi- theater ' where at this time, three or four and twenty th uland Per- fons may fit and fee didindlly every Adion, and pufs away part ol the
day in plealure and delight. "^ But
J . 2,JC
Tent ?u Lrard near 'Rcfiwlui inr/iin f!:ur Lcacru^^s. oF .^iFnrs /// LiZ/n/aciX^c . a 'kcrnurkiil^lc
luinJrc^ iiruL cuy/iU' llr feet ku//i r^rcin. t/ic rtrc/' A A to the. tvv of ttu .AmuiMict , Ji J] .
intLinnti • .
cat
A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
2tt
But thcle .Sports were purlued with much more eagernefs in the time of the old Romans, who brouglit ftrange Beafts from all Parts of the known VVodcl to figlit before them, in tliele publick piaces ,• in con- lideration wliereof, upon the fuccelsful Atchievements of Sylllin Afn. ca. the People of Rome were not fo much plcafed with his makincr their inveterate Enemy King Jugurtha his Pnfoner , as they were inh^nicelv delighted with die thoughts of the great iamiliantv, that Sy//j had With BoccLus, King of (j<stulia, wliercbv tliev hoped, thathem!<^ht obtain mod ftrange unheard of rifncan Wonfters of Beafts to%e Ihewn in their Amphitheaters ; and hompey the Great moft wonderfully gratified the inclinations oi his fellow Citizens, when he firft brought a great Rhinoceros to Rome ; After him Augt^Jlus Cu:Jar brought another and following Emperors the like. ThisBealt,as it is reported. performed Itrange things there ,• and when irritated, would with his great rtrong Horn, prcfently throw up all other combatant Beafts to the Skies and a Bull could not tofs up a Ball higher than he would tcls up Bulls a-d Bears together.
Namq; gratew gemino cornu ftc extulit Vrjam, Jutiat Ht impofitas Taurus in ajira pilas.
And again ;
O quam ternhiles exarjit proms m iras !
Qtiantus erat Cornu^ cut pi la Taurus erat J
The Fights between Men and Bcarts were more unequal for the moft part performed bv Slaves, Captives, and Condemned Perfons vet lome of good quality have alfo polluted themfelves with thele Brutifh Sports, and acquired the true title of Befiianj. That which happened to Androdus a £>tff/j«,upon this occaiion is well known now, but was ilirprizing at firft, who (landing ready in the Arena, and'havinga Lyon let out upon him, received no hurt; for the Lyon came "^nxXy to him, carefTed and fawned upon him, and he likewifc tlroakecf and made much of the Lyon ; and after the loud lliouts of the People, be- ing asked how this came to pafs, he let them know, That beincr with his Mafter m Afnca^to get rid of his hard rervice,he had fled into a'Cave whither this Lyon came with a Splinter in his Foot, and held up his wounded Paw to him to cure ; which having performed and free'd his Foot from the fplinter and healed it, the Lyon kept himand provided meat for him three years, and when he came away the Lyon followed hira fo tar, that he was alfo taken and brought to Rome, and that by the further cruelty of his old Mafler he was now condemned to the Beafls, where they found him ; whereupon his liberty was granted him, and the Lyon given him tor his pains, with which he afterwards got his li- ving, every one being defirous to fee the Lyon that was the mans Hoft and the man that was the Lyons Surgeon. '
The Fights between IMen and Men, were of divers kinds, for they fometimes fought on Horfe-back,as the Andahta, (bmetimes in Cha- riots, as the Efedani, and fometimes in Ships and Veflels, and this ei- ther in the Amphitheaters, (the Arenahemg(ilkd with water) or in a Building made on purpolc, called a Maumachia ; or in artificial
E e » . Ponds,
Mirtia'^'t
212
A Journey from Vcmcc :o Genoa.
Ponds, and cuts out of Rivers ; and the Emperor Claudius exhibited a Naval Fight upon the Fuane Lake,tlie L-gn di CeLwofiX lacus Fucims,^ days Journcv trom /?(?w^, where at his firit appearance both Fleets lalu- ted him with an A-ve^ Ctcfar^ moritun tejulutant.
But the greateft number of their Fights was performed by GUdiators
Kttumu on foot, ot which there were alfo divers forts; as firft, \\\t RetianuSy
who was armed with a Trident in one hand, and held a Net in the
other, with which he entangled, and caught his Enemy ; or othcrwile,
if he mifled of his foe, he then fled fwiftly away ;
Tot a fug} t agnofcendus arena.
Through all the Amphitheater he flies
Like lightning through the Azure skies.
Until fuch time as he could gather up his Net again & prepare for ano- ther encounter.T.e whole habit and way of hght is exadti) defcribed by JuvHil^ in the eighth Satyr,where he reprehend*? a noble Ro-mun.on^ of the great Family of the CracchiSor taking upon himlelf this kir.d of gU^ diatura.lt was thought to be brought in ^alhion fir{l,in imitation of Z'/^- taciisfint ofthe wife Menof Gr^^-c^^who being challenged by Phryr^o^c^mt into '' e field like a hlherman, and involving his Enemy in his Net Hew hiiTi with his Trident and iJigger; but lome were delighted to lee t';cfe Gladiators flayn, tor bemg that they fought without Armour, only in a Ihort coat and bare-faced, they might the better take no- tice ofthe laft Motions of their Limbs, and the Alterations of their co- ^'^rdd^ftUi Jou^lineaments and features in their dying agonies : A'id Ihave ktn the preftrved in Statuc ot a dying Gladiator in Ludovifios Gardens at Rome^ (o well re- Kome. prefented, and lo txquifitely carved that it may compare with the Fi-
gures ot the m.oft famous Statuaries in any age,- fince it is thcu^^ht meet to be numbred in the firfl rank u ith the works of Fkydias^ and Praxiteles^ and is not lels eftecmed than the wonderlul Statue of /'y- ramui in the lame gardens, nor Farnefe\ Hercules made by Glycon the famous Gr^^>c, nor the old JEgypttan Terme; Nay the beautiful ftatues oi Antimus^ and Apollo Pjthian^ in Belvedere^ the garden to the P^a- tican^ are not at this day more to be admired. Nor the rare Figure oiyenus her felfin Medici s^z\xq^\ nay furthermore the Grecian Sta- tue of Peace, and the Greek Shepherdejs that holds up her garments, to Ihow her due proportions, are no ways alhamed to be ranked with him, w ho by good Artifts is held in the fame efleem with Farnefes bull,' and the never to be out-done Laocoon and his Sons, the joy nt work of the rare ancient Mafters> Agejander^ Polydore, and Athenodorns. Tliis whole order ot the Retiarij was devoted to Septune.^nd generally tought agamlt a party, who were followers of A Wcj», fire and water not being like to agree. Tlxefe were called Secutore.
faxenaL
Cum Graccho jujjus pugnare Secutor.
Tlie Secutor was guarded with a Shield, which he carried high, to hinutr his head trom bem^ catched in the N<;t, and with a Sptar or long 5word#
! . f!-
A JouriKy from Venice to Genua.
^3
Altius imprejfo dum palpitat enfe Secutor.
P'-Ud.
Thefe fouglir, and followed after the Retiari), and other Gladiators, w ith ficrcenefs and courage,and were favoured by divers Emperors, who liked this way ot h-hting; and u hen five Rctianj had } ielded to five Secutores, and thrown doun their weapons, the Emper^ r CaLguIa.ccm- manded the Secutores to kill them ; uhicu they did to the laft man, who becoming delneratc took up his fork again, and flew all the five conquering/crw.*£^r^.f, and tliis lofs ot his dear t'nends was bemoaned by the Emper^^r in a publick Edid:, with the exclufion ot thofe who en- dured to fee it, from being prtfent, for the tuture at any lacred nte. But the Emperor Con:mrdu^ not only encouraged thefe Gladiators, but took their parts in his own perfon alio, and tought along wii-h them inthc.^rf^^; and when the flattering t organs c\'\td him up lor a F/ercules, a Mars, and Ihouted out that he fought like a God of war, he thought that they mocked and lau^h d at him,and immediately cal- led to his marine Legion, that were tending the Ropes and Sayl clothe,
come down, and kill the Spedlators. v • r i
Another order of Gladiators imitated the Ti/iic/j^f.f m their fights, and bearing a Imall Parmula^ or little plain Thracian lliield,bu'- trufting chiefly to ttieir broad llrong 'nvords with their points turning upward, like the prefent Turkilk.ox Perfian Cimitars.They were called Ihreces, rkma. or Thraces,^n(^ were terrible flalhing cutting nvords-players, and de- rived this cuitom, manner, and occafion of fight, from the old Thru- cians; even betore the time of /^fr^'ri^^/^/J, when they fought with the lame weapons for prizes and rewards at the funeral, aad tombs of their great men in Thrace ; and thele Fencers fought cither againit one another, or againll: other Gladiators. r i r t
A Myrmtllo was a notable Sword-player and fought after the GaU M^miMtt-- Ikk way, dopping, and fquatting low and frisking about, and covering himfclf with his great oval Ihield, and had his l^ead armed with a llrong Helmet, upon the Creft of which was the Figure ot a Fifli 5 and when his Enemy lay bare, or gave any occafion ot a thruft, he would leap up briskly of a ludden, and run hun through and through with his iharp pointed Sword. Who could contrail with fuch a cun> ning, llrong, and adive combatant ?
Quh Myrmilloni componitur aquimams ? Tkrax.
The Thracian fighter would often engage with him, and the Retia^ rius many a timc,and would come up to him with his Net in his hand, finging ttiis ;
Non te pete, pifcem peta^ . -•
Q^id mc fugiSj Calls ?
Another fort of Gladiators were natned Sam^ites, wholk armour U defcnbed by Livy- Their lliields were inlayed, engraven, and imbol- led with nlver, and with GoJd •■ One en4 of their Ihield, with which they R'^^uded their breait,was flat,broad, llreight, and even ; the other end nlxt their Ihoulder, was narrower, that it might be turned and
movfiis
#
iA^Jnanfjt,.
214
A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
Vimachjtri^
Laquearij,
AferidiAnu
Statiki,
Hp^^K
moved with more eafe ; bef.des which, they had a long IW^;;;^ a Breaft.plate, a Hdmct with Feathers upon the Crell and^ Rn^.' upon their left leg, Thefe Gladiators were' n great req dl ,n Llr from whence the Romans learned many of their AmphitheatricaSts' and^exercfes , and they fought agau.fl the i>...4, /ndXJT^^^^^^
.^r^i^^'^}^^^'}"^^'^ "^^'^ "'l"'"' """^ Z>/«..c/.-^./ Who fought With
WO Swords, and others named L.j.eam,thck were dangerous "elC that fought with Sword and Halter, and had two wavs witli themTo entangle, and deftrpy their Enemies. '
The Men^,a»^ were a bold defperate Crew, who came rulhin^ into the Amphitheater at Noon, when the Gl.^ufors had concluded and the Spedators were difmifTed, andwith their drawn Sword ran atone another without Order, Art, or Armour, and Icorning to make ufe of Head-pieces, Shields, and fuch like Hindrances and Delays ot Death butchered one another prefently "' ^^^^">
eJ^'J^A^^^V^'/Ji.^"''''^^'^''^'^ '^^ tender Female Sex was not exempted from thefe Iharp, rude exercifes.
Hos inter fremitus novofq- lufus Stat Sexus rudis infciupi; ferri , Et pagnas capit improlus vtriles.
.J^^^^t^r °f ^^"^ ^""^ beautiful, comelv, lovely young Women that could be found andputthem to School to a uJl or MafteTof
Defence, to be inftruded m the Art of Fighting • wiiere a tendrr young Gentlewoman that had fcarce ftrength enough to exercilc at I carving School, muft be fencing every Morning wlh a g .at Fellow and be fet fuch rude ItelTons as thefe : ftuow,
None of your fliifting Gallick play. Great Cafar likes the Sammte way. Come clofe, ftrike home, and you'll one day Bear your Foes life and Fame away. And if you mils of Vidory, In graceful pofturcs learn to dye.
ForthofewhowereputtoaZ^«/7?«ia the moft fevere way were bound to be burnt, whipped, and fall by the Sword. ^'
Tgne uri^ lirgis cteJi^ ferroq; necari.
Now to fee one ofthefe fine young Women fight, well drefTed with her golden Shield, and her fair Plume of Feathers the EmpeS Wm- S V.S f^ ?°; ^°'^'" commending, and crying out fometSes Wdl played fair Lady , or as Xerxes faid when he biheld from a^Sh H the Sea-f^ght at Salamis , and Artemifu had funk one of 1,1 own Ships inftead of one of the Enemies, well fought Queen 1^1 J^ my Women fight like Men and my Men like WomTn £wevefw h^e very good Authority to afc us that the Women fought ftoutljf!
To
A ]Gur7:ty from Venice to Genoa.
2I«5
Sm.
To fee o e of thofe fpruce Dames lay it on
Like any right bred ra^mg Amazon.
You'd think your icli' near to fierce Thermodun.
Credas ad tanaim jerumij; Fhajim Thermodun'iacas cuUre turhas.
And that thev generally fought after the manner of the Sammtes we may learn from Ju-jenal, w here he takes notice, what a fine Cre- dit it would be lor a man to cry <'>ut at a publick Sale of his Wives Goods ; who gives moft for my Wives Bouts ^ who bids Money lor her Corfelec, Helmet, Gauntlets .'
Quale ddcus, rerum fi conjujis aucliofiat.
Bait hem, i2 Manic ^e^ '^ CnJiiC, Crurifi;fwisfri
Dimidium teamen .^
But Domiti -n the Emperor went fViU beyond this, when he let his G'adiators together in the night, and made his Dwarfs figlit, thofe lit- tle Pygm.ean Creatures : But we need fay no more of them, for it may be thought by fomc that
Whether they flew, or whether they were flain They'd both make but one Morlel for a Crane.
And indeed it is high time to leave this omni'Ant Dxmriiim temp'um, as rertulUan calls it altogether, and pafs forward to more pleafing objedts. Parting therefore trom VtroHa in the Morning, w e travelled tnrougii a delightful plain Country 14 Miles, and came early in the
Afternoon to Mantua. , , ,-1 1 t^ r • • r 1
Mantua is pleafantly feated in a Lake like to the Delcnption ot tlie MMi-Aa. fituation of the great City Mexico. This .Lake of about five Miles loner is made bv the opening of the River Mimius, or Merjtzo, a de- lightful flream, Vhich runs ilowly, fpreads it lelt wide, and bears its name high am.oigfl the noted Floods of this Region.
Frondentibus bumtdaj-'ipis Colla Levant pulcher Ticinus,^ Addua vifu Cterulus, (y velvx Atbefis, tardnf/; meatu Mincius.
And again j
VoUcres qnas excipit amne juieto Mincius.
This River runs into the Po, and rifcs out of the Lacus Benacus, and is fo full of Reeds in many places, efpecially near Mantua, that I can- rot omit ^^irgd\ proper elegant way of mentioning his own Country
^''''- Hin.
AiinaHSi
2l6
-t
A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
kui. *•.
iw
Hinc quoque quhgentos in fe Mezentdus armar^ Quos patre Benaco velatus arundine g/ama, AUnciHS infejia ducebat in ceqtwra pinn.
The entrances into Mantua over the lake are made good by Ilrono- Caufeys, of five or fix hundred paces long, having Draw-bridges at each end ; and that over which we paffed, called Ponte di St. G^ori^io^ hatha covered Bridge for a great fpacc together, ar:d a Tower in the middle. The Fonte de Molini hath twelve Mills in the Arches, called the twelve Apoftles, which afford the Duke a confiderable Reve- nue. The Streets are large, ftrait, and clean. Here arc eight Gates, eighteen Parilhes, and forty Monallerics. The Domo or Cathedral is built after the dcfign of Gluiio Romano^ the Roof of which is painted with Ai^ure and Gold ; in this Church they preferve the Body of St. Anfelm^ Biihop o{ Luca ^ in the Church of St. ^Wrd'iL',is the Body of St. Longtnus the Martyr, together with fome drops of tlie Blood of our Saviour, which are iaid to be brought hither by that holy man. The Duke's Palace is flately and magnificent, and was the bell furnilh- ed of any in /^t/y, till the Imperial Army plundered it, in the time of the Emperor Ferdinand the Second, in the year 1630. There arc three Suburbs which appear like to fo many dillind: little Towns, Porto Forteze^ Bcrgo di St, Giorgio^zvA II Te. The Duke hath alfo divers Country Houfes,as that of yy.7rwjr(7/j, in the way to Verona, v^\{\Qh is nobly furniflicd, hath Royal Apartments, good Gardens, F- untains, and Water-works. La Favor ita is upon the fide of the Lake, and hath about a hundred Rooms in it. La Virgiliana is another pleafant Coun- try Houfe with a Farm adjoyning to it, called thus, by reafbn that it is near to the Village of Petola^ formerly called Andes where Hrgil was born.
Mantua Mi^farum domus^ *atque ad fidera cantu Andino evec^us.
Mantua the Mufes dwelling all along,
But rais'd up to the Stars by th' Andine fong.
The Palazzo del TV, at no great diftance from one of the gates of the C ity, is well worth the feeing, where the hall is painted w ith the hillory of the Gyants ftorming of heaven, and fo artificially roofed^and vaulted, that it makes a double whifpering place, where, at the oppo- fite corners of the room, every little fight and whifpering is difl:ind:Iy Heard, and in no other place ; and he that Hands between hears no- thing of it. I had formerly been in whifpering places at Padoa^ Mont* pellier^ and clfewherc; but thofe were fingle ones, made by the contri- vance of the roof,upon this rule, That the Angle of Incidence,is always equal to the Angle of Refle<5tion, and the whole top of the room fo proportioned as to rcfled: all to one point, that comes from another oppofite to it; but thefe far exceed them all, being contrived with a double and crols Arch, and make a large double crols whifpering place.
Threefcore
A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
217
Threefcore years before the Trojan war Eteoclcs^^nd Po/ymces^fons to Oed/pus^ King ot Thebes, contending for the Soveraig'.ty,that City was invadcd,bcficged,and rumed by the Greeks,when /yu;f//.v;,tlie great The- ban horcerels,lceing that her Country was de{lroyed,ficd firil into Aju^ where ihc built a Temple^and dedicated it to Apollo^ tlien fayJed into /- /^j/v,and went to 7y^trri^«j-,Kingof the Tufcans^by whom flie had a Son named Oc-w^^w ho a itcrwards palled the W/(-«;;/«i?T,Cv'' the F/?, & built this City,and called icaircr his Mothers namc,according to the/^^wf^u// Poet.
Ille etiam patrlis agmen ciet Ocnus ab oris^
FatidiCiC Alanthus et Tujci filius amnis^
il^i micros matrijque dedit^ tibi Mantua nomen.
The GaUi Ccwow^w/^afterwards beat out the Tufcans, and made Petg fly into that part of the mountains fince called the Rbetian Alpes. The Romans overthrew the GanU^ and Mantua follo\\ed the various Fortune of the Wcftern Empire till the Emperour Otho ^ the fecond , gave it to Teda'do, Count o^Canojfa, Boniface fucceeded, and Beatrix his Countefs; then the Countcfs , MathiUn^ who made great wan iin Italy^ fidcd with the Pope again ft the Emperor, and left large poflelfions, and revenues to the Church. The Family of the Bvnacolji ; in procefs of time,oLtuned the Lordlhip of thisCity,?j/jc7- nj the laft otthat ftock was llam in the market place by the people in the year i-;i8 under the command of Lodovico di Gonzaga^ the firft Lord of M-^ntua of this Family that reigns at prefent. Frederick^ the fecond of this line, was made Duke of Mantua^ by Charles the fiti:h, and Vincent the firft was afterwards created Duke or Montfer* rat. The preicnt Duke is Carolm Ferdinandu) Gonzaga^ Duke of Mantua^ znd Montfsrrat^ and ot Niveroriis, and Retelais in France^ per- petual Prince and Vicar of the holy Empire, Marquefs o{Go}izaga, Viada- va^ Gaz(dQ^D.x\A Dozolo^ Count ot Rodigj^Lord oi Luzara^ and chief of the order of the Knights of the Blood ot Chrift, which order was infiitutcd in the year 1608, by Vincent^ Duke di Mantua , who had been three times in Hungary^ Aujlria^ and Croatia^ in the wars againft the Turks.
From M-iNtua we travelled to the great River Endanus^ Padus.'^^^^-^^^* or the/'^,which ariles from mount Vifopx Mons Vejulusfintohh^ high- eft mountains of the Alpes towards /^rt/;;*;^, and rowling down in di- vers branches at firft, without any fixed channel unites at the foot of the mountain, and falls under ground, and altera mile or two appears a- gain, and running with a fwiftcourfe through Lombardy^iitf^xn hath re- ceived tinrty Rivers more which tall from the .-ilpes&c Apenni?ie,di{chtr- gcs it lei t by divers mouths into the Adrutick fea, and this being by far the greateft River in /rj/y, it is mightily magnified by the Z.j//w'Pcets who would have it no lefs than the Niie^ and the P'anube^ and mention it by the name ot" the King ot Rivers.and the greateft in the world. And it muft be con tclled, that it is a noble flood, and that it is the only River that hath a place in Heaven : or that hath the glory to be made a con- ftellation, and placed in the Chambers of the South, near to the ftormy, tempefluous Orion ; andfince chat it is adorned with thirty eight ftars, which thine vifibly in the Firmament, to be called Starry^and Celeftial, are but its due Terms of honour : but fure there are many Rivers upon earth in Eunpe^ Ajia^ ^frica, and America that far exceed it.
The Fo being very fwift we palled it by boat, not without fomc
I t pecu-
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2l8
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Brefi-ello.
A Jaimicy fro??i Vcnjcc to Genoa.
peculiar Contrivances, and Enoires', and the" kind a/lftarce tl7e iittcrs of Phaetcn. who imourn lure for the difrnil fall of their Bro^ tner, when 7/^;>//^r Itruckhiindoun from Heaven into the Po,
A Journey from W^nicc to Genoa.
ipi
^^.^IP^^ Erirlanus fumantiaqtic ahluit orj. i"j__.,,, ,i;j 1^;^ T.imK*; imhracc
And thoiigl ropes of the Pofts I and u they the be the Ri to anc bk.
II
time
tbefi^
the 1 dowi T Prim form Cou?
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Lab
him
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and
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the
^/7u'\^' attempted to furpnze it m the >ear, 165^, lut vv^re rerul- led by the Duke o Moc!enu\ brces. Having f alFed Enjcdlo vvc clol- led the River N/c/j, now Lf^vcj, and foon came to Farma
The Dukedom oiPa^ma, is guarded by the Ape>mme mountains and divers Rivers,and is a very truitiul Country,afS)rding plentv of exccIJcnt wmesand (ome good ^Vfwr^///,fruits of various iorts,rich pafmres pJen
F^Tflfi
FOLLOWING
PAGE
HAS INCORRECT PAGINATION
I F^rnnd^
Tarv,
t^ arracc^a^
r i -i.
Lnw
11^
"' •- Ti^'^^'S^-
2l8
Jl Jcrumey from Vcnjcc to Genoa.
^ ,
:, .'
Ct/^,
Oiutjlalat
Bfefi-ello.
peculiar Contrivances and Enoires , and tlic" kind arT.ftarce the iitters of P/w/cw who mourn lure for the difmal fail of" fhcir Bro. thcr, when 7«/'//f/- ftruck him doun from Heaven into the Fo.
Exciplt Erulanw! fiimantiaque ahluit ora.
Edmanus did his Limbs imbrace
And ualh'd his linoakin^ >.un-Lurnt face.
And hav'ing flooJ fo long by thcbanks of this River,thev mivbe thoiightto be more convcrlant u,rh it. Courfe and Pa/Fages thcv^tve ropes ,n tlus Country to the tops of higli Poplars, one end on one IL
p n i^^'T' T'^ ''^' *";''''■ ^" ^''^ °'^^^'-' ^'^ build liigh Beacons o?
Poftsbke thole madeufeot in the Strap.do; on each fide of the R^cr •
and upon a hne fixed to them, they put a running PuIIv, to uhSi
hey fi,c another long rope, and to the further end of this ope
he boat IS tyed and by IJeenng the head of the boat c bhuueiy cn.fs
he River, the force of t!ie Stream makes the puliy run from one ftdc
to^another, by which means wc paiTed it uithout labour or trou'
Sim Remlgii }clu Concava Trajeclo Cjn.lj rudente w/v/,
A rope drawn through a Fuh'} foon convey 'd Us crofs the Po, without the Rou-crs aid ; And a fmall boar, w ithout bread fayJs and oars Did gently w alt us to the nciglibouring fhores.
I had formerly pajTl^d tlie T., ns high as Tur.n, and at another
ime went by beat through a cut made%ut of the Fo into the '-'
thefi^ and once I travelled tor lome fpace together on horfe-back 'ar
dnln >T^^ f'}?"'^ Of this River, uhere the banks bem' br La down It hadforfaken its channel- "^ ^r- hen
Tlie next town wc came to vvas GuafiJa, belonging to a Sovcraian Prmce the Duke ^Gua-UU ; a handfom Imall Tou'n at pref nt g:r formerly larger, and more confiderable when there were two Genera
rwmG.jsfJa we travelled by C.ue,, to Brefce/Io or Bnrel/ur» a compad clofe (Irong Town, fortiHed after t!ic modern way, upon d-e fideot the/'.: Anold /^m.. place of habitation, where the Emperor Orh ftaid in his journey againfb ;'...//.«., when after tl con^d a £.//«/., then called Be^nac.r., he took a refolution of d^fpa^di nc htmfeh, not out of any defpair of overcoming all difa ties bu^
n'e^'tnT' °^ ^''' "^"f^'^ '' ''''''""'" ^^'-^ '^^ and unvillin, ne.s to czeupon and continue fo great an Empn'e, with the ha- zard of fo many brave mens lives that ferved h m, and h^refore
fdf uith a dagger under the leit Pap,inthe ninety fifth day of his r eS^ and tlie hirt> eight year of his life. This town hath at pr-fenc about be Duin 7^'"^- 'f^^'^^^-^ - g-d Garrifon belong ng to r.irn,a. Ihe Spa.^jh 1 raops, under the command of the M.r.pufs of
A Journey from \ cnicc to Genoa,
ipi
Carracenu, attempted to furprize it in the \ear, 165-5, tut were rcrul- icd by the Duke o ModeHa\ forces Having f allied Er^cdlo we dol- led the River Nicu, now Le:iza, and foon came to Faimj
The Dukedom o( Fa-ma, is guarded by tiie Apey,„n,e mountains and P^r,r.a divers Rivers,and is a very fruitful Country,afrording pknfcv of txcelicnt wines and fome good A?«/r^ff///,fruits of various forts,ricii pailures nlcn tyot Cartel the beff Cheefein Italy. ^-.xn ftore of Che{lnuts,and Tanufa. li Tmffes, luhra terra:. Roots without Stems, or Plants 'Trou-ng irom them, which they hunt after with a pig which Ibells than our and difcovers where they are ; rhefe are a - reat difh in Italy,znd thouuil they leem to liave no great nourifhment in them are elleemed tote provocative. And belldes thefe, this Countrv affords lome mires of Copper and Silver, and very fine Wool.
Vellerihus primis Apulia, Parma fccMndis Nohdis.
The City of Parma is very ancient, inhabited long fincc by the Tu( cans, then by the Bon, next by the Romans ; a Colony bcincr fint hi- ther from Rome about a hundred and eighty two vears bt-fore the coming of our Sa lour ; and another in the time of ./«^^y/;,, ca:lar But upon the declining of the Roman Empire it ran through divers fortunes lerved lomctimes -r.«/.^, and fometimes Milan, till it was conquered by I ope Juliu,, the fecond, and given by Paul rhe third to his Son
T1 ^'*'^\ n('r *^°"' ^ ^''"'^'^'^ ^""^ '^""y ^^■'^ years fince, m whole Family it ttiU contmues.
It is a Delightful, Airy, well feated City, the Houfcs being low the Streets broad, and the River Parma running between the Citv and the Suburbs, both of which are well fortified with crood Baftions and a broad Ditch It hath three handfom bridges over the River The Dukes Palace is fplendid, his Coaches extremely rich his Gar' dens worth the feeing with the Gr^M's. Fountains, Water-works and Bo^^'s of Orange Trees. The lodgings are lurniihed with excellent picttures, vellels of Porphyry, A gath, and Jafpis.
The Cathedral is fair and ftatcly ; In the Capuc}»es Church is the tomb oi Alexander FarneJe,D\ikQQi Parma, one of the greatea com- manders of his time, and of his Dutchefs Maria of Portugal The Church of St. John is large, and beautiful, and adorned witli ta« paintings of thole great Malbrs, Corregio, and Parme^tano, a ,d the Be- nedithn Convent adjoyning is one of the largeft and faireft of the or- der. This C:ty was fortr.erly beficgcd for two years together bv the Emperor Frederick Bariamlja, who in hopes to make himfelf Mafter of It built another Town near to it called richria, but thofe of /'./r- »«.. behaved themlelves fo (loutly,that they freed themfdves, and rui- ned his new Tovvn ot l^'idorv.
From Parma we Went to Fornovo ten miles from thence, feated f .rm* upon the l^itt River Taro, and re d red remarkable bv rhe battd aain- ed here bv c W.'i the eight. King ot France, zgzm&. the confederate Fnnces oUtaly in the year 1494 m hisreturn irom tlie conqueftof ^-j- /.^y.The River Zj/-. IS a remarkable River which runs and plavs about ^"" the plains, before it falls into the Po, and is very fwift, aUhough it be not itreight,but notably winding and turning. At firfl fight I con-
' ^ * jedJured
-^ ,
.^■^<\ ■ . _■
Tfl
220
A Journey from Venice :g Genoa.
u
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jed:ured that it would prove a troublcfome Rivcr,when itwaslliut up betuccn the Hills : find fo we found it ; tor as Ibon as we had left the open fpacious plain Country in which we had travelled with plea- fure from Parloa hither, and had got in between the fpurs of the a- penntne^ and entered the Val di Taro^ the valley in which this River runs, we were forced to travel many times inconveniently upon the fides of I he hills, on the right hand, and on the left ; and furthermore to crofs the River it felf above forty times, and in one palFage, one Gcntlemans Mule fell down with liim in the middle of the River i but after we came pad Borgo di Falle the River was lefs, and ue tur ed more to the right hand, and climbed up the Apcnmne Moun- tains.
Borgo^ or Borgo di Valle Is a walled Town at the upper end of this valley, upon the fide of the hills, where we ihew cur bills of healthy and where the Duke oipjrma keeps a Garrifon. The Ba^ y/^/ appear- ing in thefe parts the day before, the Governor font a guard ot Muf- queteers with us to convoy us with fafety over the hJls into the itate of Genoa' ^, The -^/'£'«»///(? is a row of Mountains of many hundred miks long,
MountainsT^^ beginning at the Alpes^ continued from one end oi Italy ro the other, and ending by Regpo^ or Rhegium upon the Sicilian Sea, and m Ibme places are more than a hundred miles broad, and by this means take upthe grcateft part of /^rf/y, and render it a Mountainous Country, and though there be man v valleys b.tvveen, yet the hiUs do really reach, and extend thcmfelves from the Tyrrhene to the Adrutick^ from the lower to ttie upper fea, conformable to the defcription of them by Luc an,
I-Iirtc Tyrrhene vado frangentes mquora BifiS^ Jliinc Dalmaticis obnoxia fluchhus Ancon,
And this makes the travelling in Italy to be generally on Horfe- back, or upon Mules ; whereas in France one may travel five hun- dred miles together in Coaches, and in Germany all over the Coun- try ; and if it were not for Campania forlixy and the great continued plain Country between the Alpes and Apennines Italy could never make good the high Character it has.
Onjid mentions the Airy Alpts^ and cloudy Apennlne^ and mod Mountains have clouds about them, and in the evening the Clouds, floating in the Air after Sun fet flip away towards the next high hills, and take up their reft in the hollow fpaces of the Mountains, and when the Sun rifes next day, and warms the Air, the clouds dif- lodge again, rife upland wa*ider through the Skies ; but the Apenni- nes are more cloudy generally than other hills, whether for having the Seas on both fides of them, or for other reafons, I leave to the more accurate learchers into nature to judge, and we have travelled for many days together in the Countries ot the Apennine Mountains with the Clouds continually about us, either a httle over us, under us, or palling through them, not without admirable variety of profpecS and iiom tlie top of a Mountain to fee a valley with Houles, and Towns in it, and then the ciottds cretping over the next hill to co- ver
\^ \
%
S I
A Journey from Venice to Genua.
ver the whole va!]cy between them, and make k look like a lake, and the top of the clouds gently waving, and to deicribe tl]e Suns, rifing, and coming to Hiine upon the upper parts ot'them, and to beau- tifie, and gild them all, is beyond the exprelfion of words.
f^/-^^// naming the Apemine^^ ranks th^m with Mount Er'tx in Sici- 9', and Mount Atko^ in Greece.
Great as Mount Aths. or high Erix crown'd
With thofe green Oakes, whofe ihaking boughs refound.
Or Father Ape^nine.'^A'ho loves to rife
And Uft his ^^nouy head up to ths Skies.
And indeed many of the Peaks of the Apennines are very high, and fome of them covered with Ihow ; and others are rocky, but in gene- ral they are earthy, muddy, or full of clay ; \\ hereby they (lain and tind:urethc Tiler and many other Rivers which flow through them, and give an umber, brown, or dirty yellow colour to thole llreams, which being alfo for the molt part very fwift, the Apennine'^i^trs hereby lofe much of their grace and beauty, and become alio lefs fcrviceable ; and to fpeak the truth, not navigable with any pleafure : And this tindure which is communicated to t lem is of fo deep a Dye in many places, that it is not eafily altered or diluted, and I have leen divers Rivers run down from the Apenni e with that force into the -^^r/j^/ri, that the tlream or colour of them is perfedly diftin- guifhed a mile or two into the Sea, as if the Gulf of Femce were painted in thofe places with a Itreight >ellow ftroke for two miles
together.
We were told that the name of the hill which we here pafled o- ver was called. The Mountain of the Holy Crofs, but the Mountain of the Crofs, La montagne de L croix, much fpoken of in the South part of France is one otthe great Hills in the m.aritime Alpes^ in one of the palTages from Frovence into Italy, The higheft Mountain in the Apennine that I pafled over, between /?^wd',and Loretto, was Mount Soma in Vmh^a ; and the pafTage which pleafed me mod, vvas in the road from Turin^ between Otagio and Genoa ; where after fome diffi- culty having got up to the top of the Mountains^we law Genoa, and the beautiful fuburbs of St. Fietro di Arena un«:cr us at nine miles di- llance, and a vail trad: of Sea before us, the Eaflern Coaft on the left hand,and the Wefternontha right, and defcended by a broad way, and by large Windings and Turnings, upon the bare marble rock, meeting great numbers of Mules, and Mulcts tolling up their Nets about their notes, which all together afforded an extraordinary pro- fpedl But this Mountain of the Holy Crofs is not rocky but ali green, and it being the latter end of April we defcended with eafe and pleafure, and a good part of the way upon the grafs, till we came to tlie Sea- fide in the Evening, to Sejiri or Sesiro called by Daute in his Purgatory, ^ijiert, lormerly Segejla, at prefent Sejiri di Levante^ to diilinguilh it trom Sejiri di ponente^ between Genoa and Savona: iW the whole Coafl oi' Genoa being divided intJ the Eaft and the Weft, that which l}e5 between Genoa md Legorn is czlkd La t'rjiera d: Levant e^ and that between Gema^tnd FroverKe^ La Riviera di F^nente.
22 1
Hv-
t
^'m
p.:
322
A Journey from Venice to Genoa.
m. : '
W-A
We hired a Felluca , at 5^//r/ , and with the help cf our Savl and Oars, had a quick paffage , Croffing fir ft Porto Fin , and then keeping all along within half a mile of the Shoar we en- tered the noted Port ot Cf«M, between the new Mole, on the right hand, and the old Mole, and Fanale or watch tower on the left and went on Ihoar not far from the foot of the new Mole.
t , ■
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A.
ADlerfhelme Aclom Aken or Atxla Chapelle Alfdorff
Amphitheater at N'ifnJts Amphitheater at yerona Amjierdam
Amur a'' the firll flain
Andernach
Anterior ^ Tomb
St. An'ofuos Church
Antwerp
Apennlne mountains Am oh
Athefis
Attila Kin<y of the Humes
Augujhis Cu:fars Jewel
B.
BAccharach Baden in Aujlria J<anca
Eafr.n qH Copper Baths %\
Belgrade Binf^ Biyterg Bonna Boinitz Bourfet Bofe
Brafs^ how made Breda Brentella Bridge of Efeck Bridge of / ienna Brimjlone Mine Brimjioney how made up Bruges Brujfels
THE
Bnda Buffalo's 1 72 , Bulgarian habit.
iz6
C
Admia, or Calmtj
CumaUlulenlis
Curoliis Clufiu y pi
Car rare ft ji^j
\ Ca/a Navjy a Baron ^^
19<5 1 ^ Chappei in ^^#//a/j built by King
196 1 Edward the firfl 75-
io8j Charles the great i8i
2201 Chermef berry ^
15-0 Chremmtz 6z
ZOO Cinnabar gg
10, Circumcifion T.-r»
146; Clag^nfurt or Claudia
\ Clejch
Cli^lfura a iliining mountain
II7j C^/d';/ 7 5 < Copper Min:s 56 Corneulurg
III
Zi 184
iiS
87 lis
70 184
TOJ
104 86
160
170 187 192
Coffova
Cottenberg in Bohemia
Crainburg
Crewaldt
Crown of Hungary
Curajfe^ a brook
Czaflavo
D.
DAnubiHS Darmiladt Delta, an Hungarian Mace Delft
Dejpoina of Servia Dotis Dart Drefden
A TABLE.
r.i
A TABLE.
M
Dunkirck
19?
EDwar4 the firft King of Eng- land his Chappel in Ah- §iria 7 5 Eifeyihach 6 1 fjfeck 2.^ Eridanui 2,17
Execution by a maiden 1 5'5'
179
186
Fllegrane tijhes of the Dannie
Fluftng
Franckfort
Fretherg
FreiHadt
G.
GErmany Geronjler Gertruydenherg Ghent St Giufiina Clajs'hitten Cluckjladt Geld Alines Gorchom Corritia Cran
Cra^d Seignior Granus an old Roman Graveling St Guer Gulick Gutta Guttenherg
H.
HAhit of an Hungarian Haerlem 94
H^emus mons ^i
Hair of the head cut varioufly by divers nations 39
HamLurg j-q
Heemjkerck ^j
Heidelberg 1 10
Heilige*landt
Herrn grundt
Hippocrates
The hole Cut through
Leulel Hunting houfe at Drefden John Hujfe
I.
177
II
JDria 8 1
St. /(frw/c" ^'i Jerome oi Prague . 15 1
Jews 15-7
^/^« i6i;
/r^« turn'd into Copper 69
Zrc/>g 150
J tillers i3o
K.
KAlenherg \ ^ r />u Mujlapha Ba[fa 158
Kermes i^ A';//^;^ J fwallowcd and cut out a-
Komora j j
Kmjlkammer at Drefden 'i6^
I Ahach^ or Luliana M ^ i^^ LuniS Sc Lambert
Lapis Calaminaris
Larijfa
Laxjmburg
Lazius his Epitaph
Z^a^/ Mines
Leipfick
Leopoldus the Emperor
Leopeljiadt
Le/Iy
Leyden
Leulel ^ great Mountain
Library at Vienna.
Libujja a Bohemian Princefs
Liege
Limburg
Lintz
Lifonzo
Lovain
156
87 171
Ludov
LndovicusKingQi/fyffgjrys deachj ?(?;ff^ Luther s Chamber 1 7
M.
XVl Maejlreicht
Magdeburg
Mala in/ana
MandevilU
Manheim
Mannerfdorff
Mantua
Manujcripts
Maroz
Martinfberg
Matthias DoHinger
Medals of Gold
Mentz
Mergerheim
Mddlelurg
Mincius
MontecucuU
Morava or Mofchius
Mcufe-Tower
NAuportas Neccar Newgebau Newhaujel Newport
NewBadt in Aujlria Newjidler See Uitria Nurnberg
o.
OLympus OJlend Ovid^s Epitaph
PAdoa Fadus or Po talma nova Parma Pafuw
Petronel
Pfalts CaHle
Phtlippus the Emperors Coyn
Pohunt
Pont du gard
Ponteha or Ponte Fella '
Prague
Prefburg
Preftina Pyrlipe
PythagoH
Q:
A ^arry of Stone
Quickfxlver Mines
Quintin
R.
- ,1515.
RAh Rafpelhuzs Ratisbone Relicks Rivers RoermonJe Rot er dam.
SAal . . .^
Salt at 10 Pyrrhica T Salt' mines Samandria Saviniere
Saxonies Eledtors rarities.
Scaldis or Sckeld
Scaliger^ Jojeph
Schadt Wien
Schella
S^emtfitz
Schinta
Sclavonian Language
Scopia
Sene or Sone
SesJri
Simerin a great mountain
Silver-mines
Skurman* Anna Maria Seds of divers fhapcs Sleeping in the nieht, the in divers Countrys Gg
A T A B L E
Sncw
Souches
Spa
Spire
Stalle houfe at Drefden
Stadt
St Stephens Church at Fienna
Stone Quarry
Strauhing
Sultan Mahomet Han
Sultana
87 143
\%6
167
177
190
117
37 38
TAiamento or Tiliaventum Tengnageis tomb Ter-Fere Teutonick order Thegalia
Tiheriuss Triumphal Arch Tilts and Turnamenf$ Tirnaw Tongres Tonnelet Topolchan Tornovo
Treafure of the Emperor Trenfchin Trevifo Trinity mine Tun at Heidelberg Turkijh Tombs
86
io6
1x3
40
If
I7>
71 109
187
57 41
70
86
57 xaa
50
V
V^c/u or Waitzen St /^-?// in Carintkia Verona Fiaven Fieegrade Fieenza Fienna
Fillaco or Fillach Fitriol mine Flafing Fo^itoria Zftrecht Vnicorns horns
W.
WAllenfieyns Palace. Windfchacht-mtm Wol^gangus Lazius
ZEmlla Zigcth The Zzmenty new and old Zirchnttz lake 2.ifca Znaim
20
7^ zoo
lO?
199
87
107
XOI
lot
164 M6
99
if
80 161
Zifldfeldt with its antiquities 77
FtNIS
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i* Catalogue of feme BoohpinteJ for BENJAMIN T O O K £ ^ /^e Ship />f St. Paul*t Chun^y^yarJ.
FOLIO.
HErndoti HalicarnafjAi Htftoriu- rum Libri y.Gf. Lat. Francifci Suarcz. TracUtus de Legihus^
ac Deo Legi flat ore. The Woiics ot the moft Reverend Father in God, John Brjwball D. D. late Lord Arch-Bilhop of Armagh, Primate and Metropolitan of all Irdund. Witii his Life. Walfl3\ Hiltory of die Injh Remon-
ftrance. A Colledion of ail the Statutes now ^ in force in the Kingdom oi hcUnd. Sir Richard Bakst's Chronicle of the
Kings of En^hTid. Bilhop Sa?jderfor2\ Sermons. Sir Hum, IVwtlos book of Entries. Skinneri EtymologicQn Lifi<rui£ An^iicame, AL T. Ciceroms Opera omniu^ cnm de- csm Indtcfhtis. i. ^'oL .Htylynh^ Cofmography, in 4. Books. Mttth. Paris Htftoria Anglic. Dr. Naifo^i^s Impartial Colleiflions from the beginning of the late Re- bellion to the marcher of K. Charles the L 2. ro/. HtraditHs Rtdens^ or a Dialogue be- tween jeft and Earneft concerning the times, compieat or any of them llngle.
QV A R TO.
SEparation of Churches from Epif- copai Government, as praftifed by the prefent Nonconformilts , | Schifmatical.By Htnry Dodwet M.A,
Dnrmnhri'^ Vindication of the Prote- ftant Religion.
Phacerra^ or the Anatomy of a Porpefs ' dtfletlcd at OVp/^rfw-Goikge. 'The Trut Widow,a Comedy. By Tho, ShadwfL
The Beauty of Unity, in a Sermon preached at Prejh»hY ^^^- ^^ot £. D. Chaplflin to the Lord Biflaop of Chefler.
The Vanity of the Diffenters Plea for their Separation. A Sermon preach- ed before the King at Windfbr. By Rvb. Cktti^htm D. D.
Of Pcrjurv, a Sermon preached at the Affiles at ChHihr. Bv Jtakin Alkn \ M- A. Fellow of Trinity Caikge in Cumbridgc^ and Chaplain to the Lord Bifhop oiChtfltr.
A Sermon preached before the Hon. j
Houfe of Commons, Nov, 5. r58o. By Henry Dove D. D. Chaplain in ordinary to his Majefty. A Sermon preached before the Lord Mayor ot the City of London 011 the Feall of St. AlichueL By Henry Dove D. D. Chaplain in ordinary to his Majefty. A Sermon preached before the King at IVhtte-haU^Ja-fj,!^. 168^' being the feaft of St. Paul\ Converfion. By He?iry Dove D, D. Chaplain in or- dinary CO his Majefty. Publilhed by his lateMajcfty's fpecial command. The prefent miferies and mifchiefs of fin, difcourfed in a Sermon before the Lord Mayor o{ London. By Rob- bert IVenfely^ Vicar of ChefiUm, A difcourfe concerning the Devotions of the Church of Rome^ efpecially as compared with thofe of the Church of E?JiLind^ Oruno ArmiverfarU habits in Theano ColL Afed. Lond, a Georjrjo Rogers ejnfdem Colkgi Socio. A Collcclion oV Cafes and other Dif- courfes lately written to recover Diiientcrs to the Communion of the Church of England, By fome Di- vines of the City of London, In two Volumes. Canf^ yeteris Epitaphium, Accedit Cauf^
[a foetus concla?nata, Concavum Cafpo^loacoriim^f or 3 view in little of the great Wit and Hone- fty contained under a brace of Caps. A Sermon preached at the Funeral of Sir Roger ^radJJiatgh Knight and Baronet. By Richard IFroe B. D. A Sermon preached before the King at Winchejier^ Sept. 9. 16S3. By Fran^ cis Turner D. D. Dean oflVtndfor. A Sermon preached before Sir Hen^ ry Tnife Lord Mayor of tiic City of London^znd the Court of Aldermen, at St. Bridgets^ on Eajhr AlHnd:ty 1^84. By Francu Lord BiHiop of Rochejhr & Almoner to his Majefty. A Sermon preached before the King at iVhuchaliy 2{ov. 5. 1684. ^J Frances Lord Bilhop of £/^ and At- moncr to his Majefty. The New Teftament in the Jrijh
Tomgue and Character. The Works of the Rcvccend and Learned Mr. J-nhn Gregory M. A.
of
■. .: /-J
^JMvse%.
I I
■ h
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A
..-? '
A Catalogue.
of Chrifts Church in Oxon. In two parts.
A Brief Account of Ancient Church Government, with a Refleftion on feveral modern writers of the Pref- byterians.
Ogygia [m rerum Hibermcarnm Chrom- iogia : ex fervetuftis monumemis fide- liter inter fe colUtis crnta^atejue exfu- crif ac prophams Literis primarnm orhis gemuim tarn Genealogicis ejitam chromlogki's fufflaminata pr^fidijs^ &c. CHm Cataloiro t^egnm in Britannia ScO' torum. Author e Roderico 0 fUterly ^r- mgero.
A Difcourfe concerning a Guide in mat- ters of Faith.
A Difcourfe concerning Invocation of Saints.
A Difcourfe concerning the Unity of the Catholick Church, maintained in the Church of EngUnd.
A Difcourfe concerning Articular Confeffion^as it is prcfcribed by the Council of Trem^ and pradifed in the Church of Rome,
Oftavo and Twelves.
Two Letters of Advice, t. For the fufception of Holy Orders. 2, For Studies Theological. With a Cata- logue of the Chrillian VVricers ar.d Genuin Works that are extant of the firft three Cenurys. S/o.
Some Con fidei'ations ofPrefenc Con- * cernmentjhow farthe Romamftsmay ] be trailed by Princes of another pcrfualion, &c. 8vo. " A Reply to Mr Baxters pretended Confutation of a Book entitled, Se- f ^.ration of Churches from Epifcopal (jovtrnment^ &c. proved Schifmati- cal. To which are added threeLet- ters written to hina in the year 1673. 8vo.
A Difcourfe concerning the One Al- tar and the One Priefthood, infiited on by the ancients in their Difputes againfl: Schrfm. 8vo.
DfjJ'if'tatio?7es Cwrturrica 8vo.
Two Ihoi'C Difcourfcs againft the Ro- manift?. 12". Thefe fix written by Henry Dodrceli M. A. late Fellow of Trinity College in Dublin,
Navigation and Commerce their Ori- ginal and Progrcfs. By John Evelyn Efquire. 8vo.
Of Gifts and Offices in the publick Workfhip of God. In three parts. By Edward Wetenhdl^ D. D. Lord
Bi/hop of Corke, The Sceptical Chymift. By Robert
Boyle Efquire. The Degrees of Confarguinity and Affinity. By Robert Dtxon D. D. 8vo. Ele^chus ^AntiquitatH.^n Albionenfium, Per Dan.Langhormum^ S. T. B, 8vo- Chronicon Regum Anglornm ah Hengifio ufque ad Heptarchu finem. Per Dan. Langhorniurn. 8v o. Poems and Song % By Thomat FUtman.
4th Edition. 8vo- Poems written on feveral Occafions.
By N. Tate, id Edition. 8vo. The French Gardinar, out of French,
By John Eielyn Efquire, 8vo. eyftaxix Obflaculum. 8vo. Gardinerus de Trinitate contra Sandium, The Catechifm of the Church of Eng-^ Und^ with Marginal Notes. By £^/- ward IVetenhal D. D. Lord Biftiop of Co'he. Phsdri JabuU ex recenfjone Chr. Wafe, The Country Perfons advice to his
Farilhoners. 8vo. D€s Cdrtes\ Metaphyfical Meditations^ with his Life. By Wtiliam Moiy neux Efquire. The Life of the Bifliop ofMunJler. - The Aerial NoBilura. 8vo. New Experiments and Obfervati- ons made upon the Icy Nochiluca both by Robert Boyle Efquire. Idem Latin. 12°. 7 healma & Clearchus^^ Paftoral Hiftory. Cooper's Grummatita Lingua Ana liean a, [Vulgar Errors in Divinity removed. A Manual of Examples for School ^. ercife. /^
Of the Subjed of Church Power In whom it lelides. By Stmon Lomh^ Vicar o( CofmHs^Blene^la the Dio- cefe of Canterbury. Dt^tonarium } rilingue fecundum Loeos Communes^ nomimhus ufitatioribiu An^ glicis^ Latwis^ Gmcis. Opera Joban- nis Raij M. A, et Secmatis Regime So- daiis. 8vo. p
Relicjuix Wottoniand. 8vo. Herbert's Country Perfbn. 12^. The Form of found Words. By Rob- ert Wenfeiy^ Vicar of Chefilunt^ U". An Enquiry into the Miniftry of the
Presbyterians. 11". Aero-Chalwos : or a Regifter of the
Air. By N. Henjhaw M. D. Ltngard\ Letter of Advice to a young Gentleman* 12^
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