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HAND.BOOK
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THE KAKTBBOOK BYROIT.
Now Ready, with Portrait, and carefully compiled Index, Post 8vo., 9s.
LORD BYRON'S POETRY. Complete
Edition. Printed in a small but clear type, from the most correct text, in one compact Volume, so as to enable Travellers to carry it with their other Handbooks, without risk of its being forfeited at the British Custom-houses.
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BEAUTIES OF BYRON: Being Selections from his Prose and Poetry.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1849.
HANB-BOOK y
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ISIEW EDITION, PARTLY RE-WRITTEN, AND CORRECTED THROVGHOVT.
IN TWO PARTS. PART 11. FINLAND AND RUSSIA.
WITH MAPS AND PLANS.
LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1849.
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SECTION IV.
FINLAND.
PKELIMINART INFORMATION.
1. Passports. — 2. Money. — 3. Steam-boats. — 4. Posting and Diligences. 5. General View of Finland.
ROUTES.
89. Stockholm to St. Petersburgh
by steam-boat, touching at Abo, Helsingforss, and Reval 357
90. Stockholm to the coast, and
thence by the Aland Islands
91. Stockholm to St. Petersburgh,
bv Abo, Helsingforss, and oViborg . . . .370
92. Abo to Tornea, along the
Eastern Coast of the Gulf
to Abo .... 370 I of Bothnia . . .376
1. PASSPORTS AND POLICE.
Unless the traveller's passport has been visS by the Russian Minister or Con- sul at Stockholm, he will not be permitted to take a berth on board the steamer
o
for Abo and St. Petersburgh. The fee to the Russian Consul for his vise is a dollar banco, and this vist on a Swedish passport will be sufficient, and all that is required to land at Abo.
There is no search whatever, either of person or property, on landing at that town. The deck of the packet, on its arrival, is quickly covered with soldiers and policemen, and a sentinel, with fixed bayonet, stands at the gangway until it is ascertained that all parties on board are duly provided with passports, and they may then go on shore without obstruction of any kind. Before quitting Abo, a new Finnish passport must be obtained from the governor, but there is no occasion to present oneself in order to procure it. The expense is trifling, about Zs. English, and the delay in obtaining it will materially depend on the amount oi stimulus administered to the employe. All difficulties will then vanish ; the governor, who five minutes before was gone into the country, will be in his
R
350 PASSPOBTS AND POLICE^MONEY. Sect. IV.
house ; his secretary, who was fast asleep, will now be'ioJiis.^ffi^^^aRdpErue to the promise, the precious document will be brought to the traveller within the ap. pointed time. From Abo to Helsingforss you are not even reqiiired to produce your passport ; but a new one, precisely similar to the last, must be procured before quitting the latter city, which will carry the traveller as far as Viborg, The expense of this is about the same, and the delay about two or three hours. This passport is vise once only at Lovisa, but no charge is made, and it hardly occasions any loss of time.
At Viborg is experienced the first taste of the real formalities of the Russian police system. The traveller must attend in person before the chief officer of the police, and answer, provided they have any language in common, the regular questions. Where were you born 1 Have you ever been in Russia before % What is the object of your present journey % You then pay about 4s. for a Pa- daroshna, or licence for post-horses to St. Petersburgh, and about as much more for a new passport. The Padaroshna must be produced at every station, before the postmaster dares to supply fresh horses, and no firman of the Sultan was ever looked at by the most orthodox Mussulman with more reverence than is this permission of His most gracious Majesty the Tzar to the bearer, to travel with two or more horses, as therein expressed. Furnished with this Padaroshna, the traveller will not be called upon to show his passport anywhere on the road, not even on entering St. Petersburgh. For further information concerning Passports and Padaroshnas, see preliminary observations in the Russian Section of this Hand-Book.
2. MONEY.
As the traveller will, in all probability, journey from Stockholm to St. Peters- burgh by sea, a small sum will be sufficient to defray his expenses thither by that mode of conveyance, and his Swedish paper notes, if few in number, may be exchanged on board the steamer. Should it, however, be his intention to travel through Finland by land, a larger sum will then be reqviired, and as the Russian law prohibits the exportation of coined money, there will be some difficulty in procuring it ; should this be the case, a letter of credit from a Swedish banker or merchant to one at Abo or Helsingforss will be the best and most profitable mode of obtaining the needful. Should the traveller, on arriving at Abo or Haparanda, be furnished with English sovereigns. Napoleons, or other foreign coin, he had better get them changed at a merchant's, otherwise he must have recourse to the master of the inn, or trust to the honesty of some worthy Jew or Jew Christian, who will supply him with the necessary coin at a rate of exchange that will plainly inform him he is victimized ; not an agreeable feeling on entering a new country ; the imposition, however, should be borne with a good grace, for there will be no help for it. Finland had, until recently, a cur- rency quite distinct from the Russian, consisting entirely of paper money, the value of the lowest note being about twopence English, the smallest bank-note in Europe ; this system has wisely been changed, and the old Bancd Assigna-
Finland. steam-boats. 351
tion notes have alltbeen called in. The new notes of the Bank of Finland are pre- cisely similar in amount to those of Russia, and each is equally current ; the notes represent a certain number of silver rubles, that denomination being of the value of 35. Ad. English according to the exchange ; thus, there is a note of
£ s. d. /, .^
8 Rubles, silver 0 10 0 r^'i ^ ■ ^0 'j.f>fyy^
5 „ 0 16 8 ^ l^ . c-v —
10 „ 1 13 4
25 „ 4.3 4
The silver ruble is divided into one hundred silver kopeks, and forms the basis of the whole currency. The gold, silver, and copper coins are struck at St. Petersburgh for the whole empire ; they are as follows : —
GOLD. SILVER. COPPER.
Sil. rub. Sil. kop. Sil. rub. Sil. kop.
Imperial 10 30 1 3
Pol, or half Imperial 5 15 | 2
A Piece of 3 9 ^ 1
30 Sil. Kop. i
25 „ i 20 „ 15 „ 5 „
For further information respecting the Russian currency, see preliminary in- formation in the Russian section of the Hand-Book. L ^n ^^
3. STEAM-BOATS.
The distance from Abo to St. Petersburgh may be accomplished in about 80 hours of actual travelling, which may be allotted as may best suit the traveller's inclination and powers of endurance. We left Stockholm by the Abo steam, packet on Tuesday morning, and reached the Russian capital, with post-horses, the following Monday at about the same hour ; we lost no time, and the journey was a most fatiguing one. But, as we have before remarked, the most conve- nient and agreeable mode of travelling in Finland is by sea. The steamers, which are well found though not large, leave Stockholm for Abo, Helsingforss, Reval, and St, Petersburgh every Thursday ; and the traveller has by this route the opportunity of visiting the arsenal of Reval, and thus taking a passing peep at Esthonia. These boats stop at Abo, Helsingforss, and Reval during a portion of each day, and alford the traveller the opportunity of stretching his legs, geolo- gizing the granite, and satisfying his appetite at the Finnish hotels. Wood is used on some of the boats that run between Stockholm and Helsingforss, and,
R 2
352 TRAVELLING — POSTING, DILIGENCES, ETC. Scct. IV.
on leaving harbour, tliey have the appearance of a moving wood-stack. The fare from Stockholm to St. Petersburgh is 30 silver rubles ; from Stockholm to Abo, 10 silver rubles. As these boats are generally crow^ded during the summer months, a berth should be secured as early as possible ; but this cannot be done until the passport is en regie. The above fares include meals, while the vessel is at sea, but not while she is in harbour. The voyage from Stock- holm to Abo is usually accomplished, in summer, in about thirty hours, for at this season the long continuance of daylight enables the vessel to thread without difficulty her tortuous but picturesque course through the islands — a navigation far too perilous to be attempted in the dark ; the same difficulties occur in the voyage between Abo and Helsingforss, and much of the track the steamer takes is buoyed and beaconed oif. On the fourth or fifth day after leaving Stockholm the traveller will be landed at St. Petersburgh. There is also a steamer from Helsingforss to Viborg, touching at Lovisa and Frederickshamm ; the remainder of the journey to the capital must be made with post-horses. Another steamer, which leaves Stockholm for TorneS, two or three times during the season, pro- fesses to reach that place in two days ; but its movements are very uncertain, owing to the shallow water and difficulty in the navigation.
4. TRAVELLING POSTING, DILIGENCES, ETC.
Between May and October, that is to say as long as the sea is open, the best mode of reaching St. Petersburgh from Stockholm is by steam. The scenery of the coast, which is far more interesting than that inland, is seen to greater advantage, and with half the trouble and expense. Moreover, with the exception of the road between Viborg and St. Petersburgh, there are no public conveyances, not even between Abo and Helsingforss, the old and modern capitals of Finland. Between Viborg and St. Petersburgh there is sometimes a diligence, but the days of departure cannot by any means be relied on. The best, at least the most comfortable, mode of journeying by land, is in your own carriage ; and if the tourist has not the good fortune to possess one, he had better supply himself with one at Stockholm ; a travelling caleche, with harness complete, may be met with there for about 20/. At Abo he will (being at the mercy of the landlord) pay more ; moreover, as the stock of carriages there consists of patched-up vehicles which have been purchased from travellers returning from Russia, the chances are that the tourist will, before he reaches Helsingforss, find himself brought to a stand-still on the road- side, by a regular break down of his crazy machine. Carrioles, similar to those used in Norway and Sweden, are the carriages most generally in use in Finland, and by far the best adapted for speed, particularly where the road is sandy,- which is the case, more or less, nearly all the way from Abo to Helsingforss, and also along the shore of the Gulf of Bothnia to Bjornsberg, and they far excel vehicles of any other construction for whirling down hill at full gallop, — the only plan of descending the sharp pitches in the road with which the
Finland. travelling— posting, diligences, etc. 353
Finnish horses appear to be acquainted. Besides the carriole there is another species of vehicle, called a kihitka, a long narrow cart without springs, and covered with a kind of leather hood, extending over about one-half of the carriage. The bottom of the kibitka is usually provided with a feather bed, or a thick covering of hay or straw, and on this the traveller reclines at full length. As to repose, it is doubtful whether any will be obtained in such a vehicle ; in addition to which, you see nothing whatever of the country through which you pass. This kibitka is an introduction from Russia ; the really national carriage of the Fin is a machine called a hondkara, and the traveller should reflect seriously before he submits his body to the indescribable agonies created by the cart so called, unless, indeed, it is his intention to travel in the telega when he reaches Russia ; in this case it will be well for him to accustom his bones and muscles to the dislocations which he will be subjected to in the hondkara, for though these two vehicles are equally rough, the roads in Finland are far supe- rior to the no roads in Russia. This machine, which has no springs, is no- thing more than an oblong kind of box without a back, placed on an axle- tree and two wheels, and a board is nailed or tied to the sides like the sea of a taxed cart ; on this bench the traveller and the postillion are seated, and there is no slight difficulty in keeping an equilibrium, while on bad parts of the road one is sometimes obliged to cling firmly to it with both hands. Scarcely, too, has the tourist got a little accustomed to the sway and play of this horrid cart, than he finds himself at a post station, where he is obliged to turn out and get into another bondkara, the bench of which is perhaps tied at a different angle from the last. The roads, however, with the exception of one or two sandy stages, are excellent from Abo to within fifty miles of St, Peters- burgh, andHHi miles an hour may be accomplished ; to get over these last fifty miles it will take a great deal of patience, and all the traveller's muscle and nerve. Verst posts are erected along the roads, and on them is inscribed the distance to each town. In winter there is a regular road across the Gulf of Bothnia to Sweden ; and also between Helsingforss and Reval, In March, 1809, Barclay de Tolly crossed over with a division of the Russian army from Wasa to Ume& in Sweden.
One great advantage in Finland is the not being obliged to send on a courier. Post-horses, supplied by the neighbouring farmers, are always in readiness at the stations ; and so far from there being any delay, you have frequently half a dozen Fins quarrelling for the honour of earning your kopeks, and displaying their respective ponies to the best advantage, in order to procure your selection in their favour ; and, generally speaking, by the time you have written your name, &c., in the dag-hok, and paid the boy who takes back the horses, you will find everything in readiness for a fresh start.
The price of post-horses is much lower than either in Norway or Sweden, being 2 silver kopeks for each horse per verst. But on quitting Abo, Helsingforss, Lovisa, Frederick shamm, and Yiborg, you pay 4 silver kopeks
354 TRAVELLING — POSTING, DILIGENCES, ETC. Sect. IV.
per verst for each horse for the first stage. The boy or man who drives is amply satisfied with about 6 or 7 kopeks per post, which may be taken on the average at about 15 versts. Travelling with two horses, the entire expense does not exceed Ad. per English mile. Between Viborg and St. Petersburgh the expense is somewhat greater, as you have to pay 1,| silver rouble for a padaroshna, and the drivers expect more in the neighbourhood of the capital ; but even then the expense of actual travelling throughout the whole extent of Finland will not, on the average, exceed 5d. per English mile.
The traveller must not forget to take his own harness, and a good supply of strong rope and grease for the wheels. The regular charge for the operation of '^ smearing," as it is pronounced (though somewhat differently spelt), is 6 kopeks, and travellers should on no account omit having it carefully done under their own inspection every morning before starting. The harness is so made as never to be detached from the carriage when the horses are changed. The traces are always of rope, and not unfrequently the greater portion of the rest of the tackle; the reins are not crossed, as with us, but each horse is harnessed quite distinct from his fellow, and on reaching the station, they slip out of their trap- pings, and another pair of ponies, without even a bridle or halter, are brought out of the stable to take their places : blinkers are quite unknown here. This independent style of " putting to " is at first somewhat puzzling, particularly when the road is hilly, or runs along the bank of a precipice, or mountain stream, as is sometimes the case, and you are desirous of attaining more of the " happy medium " of the emperor's highway than your horses seem disposed of their own accord to adopt. It is surprising, however, how soon one gets accus- tomed to the random travelling over the wild countries of the north, where the roads are for the most part without fence or barrier of any kind, and, in going down hill, it is absolutely impossible to stop. A low monotonous whistle, on reaching the top of a steep descent, will make the horses go slowly and carefully until they feel the carriage begin to press heavily upon them, and then away they go, through sand and stones, whirling round corners like the wind, until they reach the level ground, or if the road ascends again, they continue their headlong speed to the summit of the next hill. It is quite useless to pull, as the bits are of the lightest description, and their mouths seem quite insensible to all the driver's efforts. They never stumble, and will generally gallop for versts without betraying any symptoms of distress. The posting being so economical, it will be no very great expense to pay the boys well, and twopence per stage will be considered very handsome : some persons pay only one penny. As soon as the traveller arrives at a station, he should call lustily for horses (in Swedish, hostar), adding as many words in that language signifying "make haste," as he can — thus, strast, snart, and schoonda, all meaning the same thing, will be found of the greatest possible utility, The tourist must then march into the post-house, and ask for the dag-hoJc, in which every traveller must write his name, the number of horses he wants, whence he comes, whither he is going, and what, if any, com-
Finland. geneeal view of Finland. 355
plaints he has to make : all the columns are headed with the requisite explana- tions in Russian. Save when posting in one's own carriage, it will not be possible to keep pace with persons travelling in carrioles, and the traveller will be assuredly left to the quasi pleasure of tracing their onward route, by seeing their names in the dag-holc at the post stations. The verst, by which all dis- tances are computed^ is two-thirds of an English mile.
5. GENERAL VIEW OP FINLAND.
Finland, with the two Lapmarks of Kami, TorneS., and the district of Viborg, form a Russian Government. Its present name was given it by the Swedes, but the natives call it Suomemna — the region of lakes and swamps. The population is 1,500,000.
The sea-coast of Finland presents throughout its entire extent the same suc- cession of fiords and rocky headlands which encircle the whole seaward frontier of Sweden and Norway ; but the dimensions of the fiords of Finland are far more limited than those to the west of the Gulf of Bothnia, seldom exceedinsf a few miles in extent, although their mouths contain an equal number of islands ; some of which, as the isles of Sweaborg, have been converted into fortresses of great strength. The interior of Finland is intersected and broken np by a vast number of inland lakes, shooting out their winding arms and branches in all directions ; which while they ofi^er the greatest facilities for internal navigation, render land travelling circuitous and difficult. Many of the high roads pass over islands on these lakes, the natural strength of whose situation has been taken advantage of to cover them with batteries ; some of them, as at Viborg and Nyslot, impregnable, save to fraud or famine.
There is a most striking difference between the inhabitants of the Finnish provinces to the west, and those to the east of Viborg, but recently severed- from Sweden, whose customs and manners, and even language, they had almost universally adopted. The Fins along the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia scarcely present any marked distinction from the people on the opposite shore of the Baltic ; but the same good-humoured faces, and apparent anxiety to please, di- minish in a very perceptible ratio as you advance further inland. Nearly the same dress, both of men and women, and the readiness with which they all speak Swedish, make the traveller almost forget that he is in a land that owns the sovereignty of the Tzar. The Fins have what they term a constitution, and are not a little proud of their national distinctions. The regiiuents raised in Finland are not mixed promiscuously with the general forces of the Russian empire, and their fleet, by far the best manned portion of the Russian naval force, forms a distinct squadron, under the Finnish flag. Beyond Viborg one appears suddenly thrown among a strange people : beards become almost universal, from the post-master to the driver — sheep-skins are worn, and low-crowned hats with a profusion of buckles ; the loose trowsers are tucked into the boots ; all is Russian. Swedish is scarcely understood, and dollars and skillings are no longer current
356 GENERAL VIEW OF FINLAND. Sect. IV.
Everything seems tamed down by the military system, the road becomes level, and wide plains spread their monotonous extent on all sides ; the villages, formed of a long straight row of wooden cottages, lining the road on either side with their gable-ends, are all built exactly alike, and all still and silent, with scarce a living being to be seen, except a few melancholy looking children and pigs — the latter certainly curiosities in their way, attenuated, half-starved looking animals, with sharp-pointed snouts.
The living in Finland we found very tolerable, though certainly by no means luxurious : plenty of dried salmon, beefsteaks, and potatoes may almost always be procured, and generally fish, but that is usually coarse and tasteless. Port- wine and Gottenburg porter, both excellenfof their kind, and mead, of which both Fins and Russians are extremely fond, form the staple articles in the drink- ing way.
Almost all the Fins of the western provinces are Lutherans, while in the Russian, the Greek church is the universal religion. The transition from the pointed steeple of the Lutherans to the yellow and green domes of the Greek church, is not less striking than the difference both in dress and features of the natives of the different provinces.
Finland, route 89. — Stockholm to st. peteesburgh. 357
KOUTES THROUGH FINLAND.
ROUTE 89.
STOCKHOLM TO ST. PETBRSBURGH, BY ABO, HELSINGFOKSS, AND RBVAL.
The Baltic may, through its various inlets and fiords, be said to surround Stockholm and the numerous islands in the neighbourhood of that picturesque and charming capital ; and animated indeed is the watery thoroughfare there during the summer months, for hun- dreds of tiny steamers ply in every di- rection, and even vessels of war, as well as the steamers which make the t^^a- jet to St. Petersburgh, and other ports in the Baltic, ascend one of these fiords, and moor at the very foot of the royal palace, which stands well, on an emi- nence, and forms, with the towers of the Riddarhus, an admirable foreground to one of the finest panoramic views in Europe. To travellers who come from Russia, and whose eyes have been wearied with steppe travelling, this view Avill be doubly pleasing. In other and more prosperous days the Swedish monarchs, when they de- sired to visit Finland, had only to de- scend the steps of their palace, and walk on board the man of war which was destined to convey them to that part of their dominions, and it was on this spot that the burghers of Stock- holm erected a statue to Grustavus III, when he returned from his victorious expedition to that province. The statue is of bronze, and has one foot turned out as if he were going to lead off in the ** Pastorelle." " Did the artist dream,' ' observes a French writer, " that the tragical end of that sovereign would be at a bain" From this quay the tra- veller will, early in the morning, step on board the steamer for Abo and St. Petersburgh, and if the weather is at all fine, which it generally is during the summer months, we should recom- mend him not to leave the deck till he
reaches the opposite side of the gulf- Leaving Stockholm at daybreak, the vessel passes up the fiord, hemmed in by bold granite rocks, sometimes co- vered with the dark green foliage of every species of fir, at others naked and rugged, fitting altars for the wor- ship of the old pagan deities of the country. Passing the heights of Mose- backen on the right, on the left are seen a succession of gardens, and the villas of the park. Beyond this the expanse of water opens by degrees, and then again closes in running sometimes into inlets, where wood and water meet, leaving the imagination to surmise how far the latter flows beyond the pendant branches ; and amidst such scenery the steamer brings to, for the inspection of her papers, at Waxholm, the most easterly and outlying fortress on which the Swedish flag now waves. The works are well disposed, and command the passage ; and the distancefrom thence to Stockholm is about ten miles. From Waxholm the entire distance across the Gulf of Bothnia, with the exception of one short interval of open sea, is little more than a succession of islands, thronging one on the other so closely as to give the sea the appearance of a succession of small lakes, from which you can frequently discover no issue until within a few yards of the rocky boundary before you ; when another lake, similar to that you have already traversed, opens out, hemmed in on all sides with its own encircling islands : some bare, and bleak, and desolate; and others, close beside, green and smiling, with trees, gardens, and cot- tages. The steamer stops twice or thrice during the day, to perform that most tedious operation — taking in wood ; and thus gives the traveller an opportu- nity of exploring the scenery of some of these innumerable islands. In the afternoon the precincts of the Russian
R 3
358
EOUTE 89. ABO.
Sect. IV.
dominions are entered, and the steamer brings up for the night near the isle of Sottunga, one of the most eastward of the Aland group. The larger island, with its vast citadel of Bomarsund, lies to the north, and out of sight ; it is said to have room within its far ex- tended ramparts for upwards of 60,000 men, and a harbour capable of contain- ing the whole Russian fleet, not, in the event of hostilities, a very agreeable neighbour for Sweden, as the nearest point of her eastern coast is not above 25 English miles distant from the extreme west of the Russian territory.
It was near the largest island of the Aland group that Peter the Grreat, in 1714, gained that victory over the Swedes which first made Russia known as a naval power. These avant posies of that country are scantily populated, the islands^ not containing more than 14,000 inhabit- ants. These individuals turn their hand to almost every kind of occupation, many of them are at one and the same time, fishermen, agriculturists, and pi- lots ; from their infancy they are taught to row a boat, set a sail, and make themselves acquainted with every nook and corner in the islands, as well as the particular form of each headland and rock ; in winter they transport fish, wood, and other articles from one end of the Gulf of Bothnia to the other; also the mail. On the following morning, after leaving Stockholm, the steamer again pursues its way, and soon enters the island group that projects from the Finnish coast, forming another succes- sion of lakes similar to those passed through on the previous day : some of the passages are extremely narrow and dangerous, the channel being marked by poles, as in the Swedish lakes.
On arriving oif the Aurajoki, the Abo river, large vessels remain there and discharge their cargoes. The steamer, drawing but little water, proceeds at once to the town. On the hill near the entrance of the river, which is de- fended by the fort of Abohus, is the
village of Boxholm, with its red painted houses, principally inhabited by trades- men and fishermen.
Abo. — Inn : The Society's House, on the Quay, the best. The first view of Aho (pronounced Obo) is fine, its old castle stands full before you, with the remnant of its massive tower, that braved for centuries the assaults of time and the elements, while on the height beyond is seen the far-famed observatory, now, alas ! untenanted. Entering the river on which Abo is built, the steamer anchors close to the Society's house, and the deck is soon crowded with Russian officers, in uni- forms of various colours, but no attempt is made to search either your person or baggage. The passport only is ex- amined. A sentinel stands with fixed bayonet at the gangway until the of- ficials retire, and the traveller is then at liberty to set his foot on Russian ground.
The streets of Abo strike one at first as enormously wide, though they by no means exceed the usual dimensions of Russian towns ; but the low style of building, almost universal in this town, and the number of sites at present un- occupied by houses, joined to the soli- tary appearance of its almost deserted thoroughfares, give an air of desolation to the whole place. The glory of Abo has indeed departed. It had once a flourishing port and a well attended university — its trade is now inconsider- able, and its University is removed to Helsingforss, the Russian capital of Fin- land. A destructive fire, the ravages of which are even now not fully re- paired, came to give the final blow to its already sinking fortunes.
This fearful conflagration, which took place in November, 1827, consumed nearly the whole city, including the university and its valuable library, and other public buildings. The fire raged for two whole days, and was not ex- tinguished until seven hundred and eighty-six houses, out of eleven hun- dred, were a mass of blackened ruins.
Finland.
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359
When the town was rebuilt, the public edifices, as well as the houses, were placed at a considerable distance from each other, and the town now covers as much ground as Dresden, though its inhabitants do not exceed more than 12,000, which, from being spread over so large a surface, do not give one the idea of amounting even to that number. Abo is the most ancient city in Fin- land ; its history being co existent with the reign of Eric the Saint, that is from 1150-1160, the period at which Christianity was first introduced into this wild and cold region. The castle is as ancient as the town, and arrested more than once the onward march of the Russian armies. It was in the dungeons of this building that Eric XIV. was imprisoned previous to his death, which took place some time afterwards at Orebyhus. The castle is now used as a prison, and is garrisoned by half a battalion of infantry. The Cathedral of Abo is also highly inte- resting, not however on account of its external appearance, which is coarse and heavy, but for the architectural struc- ture of its interior, which is of three epochs ; but this cathedral is more par- ticulary worthy of interest from its having been the cradle of Christianity in Finland — here the first episcopal chair was instituted, and for centuries the first families were buried. The vaults of the chapels are filled with their remains, and some of their monu- ments are not unworthy of attention. On one of them is an epitaph to Caro- line Morsson, a girl taken from the ranks of the people by Eric XIV., and who, after having worn the Swedish diadem, returned to Finland and died in obscuritj^, while her royal husband, as has been above stated, ended his days in a prison. In the same chapel, and at the end of it, are two statues in white marble, the size of life, kneeling on a sarcophagus, supported by columns of black marble ; these are the wealthy and powerful Clas Tott, grandson of Eric XIV., and his wife. The latter
seems to have had a wish to perpetuate her admiration for a handsome toilette, for she is tricked out with necklace and bracelets as if for a wedding-day. In another chapel is the monument of Stalhandsk, one of the generals, and, we may add, heroes of the Thirty Years' War. The fire of 1827 com- pletely gutted this church, and not only were the altar and organ destroyed, but even the bells were melted by the devouring element. Subscriptions have restored the cathedral, and a patriotic Fin, a baker by trade, Avho had amass- ed about 2500^. in his business, and was without any near relative, left that sum to purchase an organ at his death. Effect was given to his wishes, and an organ of 5000 pipes, the largest in the north, now raises its decorated and painted head nearly to the roof of the building.
Gustavus Adolphus founded an aca- demy here in 1630, which Christina subsequently elevated into a university. Abo, like Amiens, Ryswick, and, alas ! Cintra, is distinguished by a treaty, being the spot on which the relations between Russia and Sweden were set- tled by a peace during the last century. Here, too, Alexander and Bernadotte concluded that treaty which arrayed Sweden against France, and placed the Swedish monarch, a Frenchman, in the anomalous position of fighting against his own countrymen.
Vexed as the Swedes — a proud and martial people — must be to see some of their finest provinces torn from them and transferred to their more powerful neighbour; the separation was to the full as keenly felt by the Fins. . Not only from forming an influential and integral part of a kingdom, were they at once reduced to a petty province of a boundless empire, but their ancient ties of friendship and affection were torn asunder : they can have no great sympathy with Russia — no fellowship in her glory — no anxiety for her dis- tant conquests. But with Sweden it was far different; the steel-clad Fins
360
ROUTE 89. HELSINGFORSS.
Sect. IV.
formed, under the mighty Adolphus, a part of that unconquered army that humbled to the dust the imperial pride of Austria; and, in later days, they shared under Charles XII. the glories of Narva, and their stubborn valour retrieved for a moment the waning fortunes of the fatal day of Pultava. The very people are the same : the kindness, the open-hearted frankness of manner, the unwearied civility, and, the scrupulous honesty of the Swede, are alike to be met with throughout the whole of the western provinces of Finland. The traveller, during his wanderings, will hardly meet with a people so attaching, or with whom he will so soon find himself on terms of intimacy, as the Swedes and Fins. Even the valet de 'place, at Stockholm, Andrew Bergland, whose services and fidelity we can, safely recommend to all future travellers, seemed a being of a different species to the cheating vagabonds of the same "profession," who lay the traveller under contri- bution in Italy, or even the German Fatherland : his very soul seemed hor- rified at the prospect of the impositions we were about to encounter, and his parting salutation was — " Good bye, gentlemen ; God bless you ! take care of yourselves."
The steamer will reach Helsingforss the day oSuceeding that on which it leaves Abo, after passing through most singular and interesting coast scenery ; it may, however, be summed up in three words, sea, granite, firs, — yet these are so constantly varied in their position and circumstances that the effect cannot be said to be monoto- nous. The sea, in some instances, is as still as an inland lake, at others it may be heard beating furiously against the natural rock of granite to seaward ; few vessels are seen, and those are principally very small craft, carrying wood or fish from the islands to the main land.
The approach to Helsingforss by water is exceedingly striking — the har-
bour is very extensive and well protected by the works and fortress of S weaborg ; these are built on seven islands, and from the extent of the fortifications, and the strength of their position, it has been termed the Gibraltar of the North.. The original fortress was built by Count Ehrenswerd, Field Marshal of Sweden, whose dying request was that he should be buried here ; on his monument is the following inscription : — " On this spot, and surrounded by his own work, repose the remains of the Count Auguste Ehrenswerd." — The last stone of the citadel was laid in 1758, and, after the conquest of Viborg and Ingermania by Peter the Great, this fortress was the last rampart of Sweden against the Rus- sians, and the rallying point of her troops and fleet. In March, 1808, it was besieged \>^ the Russians, and, two months after. Admiral Cronstadt, who defended the place with 1500 men and two frigates, capitulated, though well furnished with every munition of war ; the secret of this capitulation, without example in history, for there were scarcely enough Russians to man the walls after the Swedes left it, was never known. Cronstadt had been tried on various occasions, and was never found wanting in energy and courage, and no suspicion was ever entertained that he had been base enough to be- tray his country and his honour for the sake of money. After the fortress had been surrendered, the admiral, who had shown a desire to return to Sweden and explain to his sovereign the motives of his conduct, retired to Helsingforss, and some years afterwards, when com- pletely isolated from the world, died, it is said, of grief.
Helsingforss. — hms : The Society- house in the great square. Hotel du Nord, facing the harbour. The accom- modation is pretty good at both these hotels, and they are generally full dur- ing the summer months, being at that season the rendezvous of the visitors from Reval. The town of Helsingforss
Finland.
■ROUTE 89. HELSINGFORSS.
361
is, historically speaking, comparatively of modern creation, having been founded by Gustavus Wasa in the 16th century : its name came from a colony of the province of Helsingland, which had been established in the neighbourhood for several centuries. In 1639, how- ever, the town changed its site, and the inhabitants moved their wooden houses nearer the sea-shore ; and on the spot where Helsingforss now stands — war, plague, famine, and fire ravaged it, each in its turn, and the end of a century found it with only a population of 5000 souls ; at the present moment it numbers 16,000, exclusive of the garrison. The Russians have greatly augmented and improved Helsingforss since it came into their possession, more particularly since the year 1819, when it became the capital of Finland ; the removal to it of the University of Abo, and the Senate, after the confla- gration of that town in 1827, also ma- terially increased its importance. The streets are long, large, and laid out at right angles, as in most Russian towns. The windows of the hotel look out on the principal square, two sides of which are occupied by the Senate-house and University respectively ; these are two very handsome buildings, and on the eastern side is a fine church, which, from its position and size, is a very splendid object. The houses are large and regular, and a handsome granite quay extends along the water in front of the town. Many of the roofs of the houses are green, which the traveller will find common enough when he reaches Russia. Amongst the objects worthy his attention is the Senate-house. The chambers in which the various branches of the assembly meet, for the ordinary purposes of business, are simple, and furnished in good taste. The large hall, intended for the meeting of the senate on great occasions, contains a splendid throne for the emperor, who once presided in person ; it is hung with portraits of former governors of
Finland. The remains^of the Library, saved from the fire of Abo, is at present preserved in this building. It consists of about 80,000 volumes, chiefly editions of the classics taken by Charles XII. from the monasteries, during the Seven Years' War. An extensive collection of Sagas and historical documents, re- lating to the history of Finland, unfor- tunately fell a prey to the flames.
In the University, which has twenty- four faculties and twenty -two professors, may be seen the act which incorporated that of Abo ; it is signed by the illus- trious Axel Oxenstiern, his brother Gabriel, and Marshal Jacques de la Gardie. This was the oldest university in Russia, having been founded by Christina in 1630; that of Dorpat, which was founded eight years after, was closed between 1710 and 1799. Printing was not introduced into Fin- land until 1641, eleven years after the university was established, when Wald, a Swedish printer, made a contract with the rector, and established himself at Abo. His salary was ten pounds a year, besides which he received eighteen pence a sheet ; and so small was his set of types, that he could only set up half a sheet at a time. The library, at this period, contained twenty- one volumes and a globe. There are several agreeable walks in the neigh- bourhood of Helsingforss ; amongst them may be cited that to the forests of Standsvik, the solitary coast near Mailand, and the verdant gardens of Traeskenda.
The Museum of the university contains an extensive collection of mi- nerals, and objects of natural history: in specimens of the zoology of Finland it is particularly rich.
The JYew Church is in the form of a Greek cross : each side is terminated by a handsome portico of Corinthian columns, and a dome rises in the centre. It stands on a large mass of granite, and may be seen some miles from the town.
362
EOUTE 89. HELSINGFORSS — EEVAL.
Sect. IV.
The Assemhly- Rooms on the Espla- nade, the barracks, and hospitals are fine buildings. It will be remarked that in Helsingforss the native granite rock frequently forms the foundation of these extensive edifices.
The Botanical Garden, about a mile from the town, is used as a public promenade, and commands a view of the surrounding country.
A fine view of the town may also be obtained from the Observatory, which stands on an eminence. It is fitted up with requisite instruments, and in it a series of important magnetic and astronomical experiments are being carried out.
A bathing -house, and an establish- ment for the manufacture of mineral waters, have been built near the town.
When we reflect that Helsingforss was merely a small town in 1822, and that the university was only transferred thither in 1827, the rapidity with which it has increased, and become a handsome capital, is perfectly asto- nishing.
A traveller should visit the fortifi- cations of Sioeaborg. A diminutive steam-boat leaves the harbour fre- quently during the day for the islands, the largest of which is about five acres in extent. From hence the little vessel should be steered for the Scheerin, literally, the scissors, a beau- tiful chasm of sea, between meeting and retreating islands, where trees with leaves grow by the water's edge, and where the holiday folks of Helsingforss land, and carry oiF a leaf with as keen a zest as others would the choicest bouquet. But pleasure suits itself to all — the rich can but be pleased, and very often are not.
The trajet from Helsingforss to Reval is short. Should the steamer leave the former town at noon, she will reach Reval in the afternoon. In fine weather both the Finnish and Estho- nian coasts may be seen from mid- channel.
Reyal Inns : the Hotel Witte-
strand ; and the Lion d'Or. They are small, and will afibrd a traveller an idea of a Russian hotel. He may find beds and a room, but he will look in vain for comfort. Finland has customs privileges which Esthonia has not ; the search, therefore, on landing here is generally very severe.
Esthonia, too insignificant a country to govern itself, but, from its fertility and position, too tempting a prize to be disregarded by neighbouring states, has been bandied about by every northern power, and has exhibited scenes of suff"ering and discord of which the history of the town of Reval, its capital, is sufficient to give an epitome. The first buildings recorded as occupy- ing its present site were erected by Eric XIV., King of Denmark.
" These consisted of a monastery dedicated to the archangel Michael, afterwards transformed into a convent of Cistercian nuns, the ruins of which are still standing, and whence the Cis- ternpforte, one of the gates of the town, derives its name ; and a fortress called Lindanisse, and by the peasants Dani- Linna, or Danish town, whence the contraction Tallina, the Esthonian name for Reval at the present day. To these were added other buildings : but it Avas not until 1219 that Waldemar II. of Denmark pulled down the fortress, probably on the Dome Hill, and set about erecting a regular town. From this time it appears to have been called Reval, about the derivation of which many have disagreed, but which ap- pears with the most probability to arise from the Danish word Refwell, a reef; and well might this singular reef of circular rocks, which stands an insu- lated mass, with plains of deep sand around, suggest the appellation*. Re- val now became of sufficient importance to be quarrelled for by the Danes, the
* Another hypothesis might be advanced from a famous Danish standard, called Reafan, or raven.
Finland.
EOUTE 89. — EEVAL.
363
Swedes, the Livonian Knights, then recently united with the Grand Order of the Teutonic Knights, and even by the Pope himself, who, however, seems to have thrown his interest into the scale of Denmark, by whom, in 1240, it was elevated to the seat of a bishopric. To this was shortly after added the privileges of a Hanseatic town, upon the same footing as Liibeck, which for that purpose sent over a copy of her municipal charter, — a document still preserved in the archives. Trade now began to flourish, and was further en- couraged during the regency of the Queen Mother of Denmark, Margaretta Sambiria, who selected Esthonia as her Wittwensitz, confirmed and increased the privileges of Reval, endowed it with the right of coinage, &c., and enfran- chised it from all outer interference. These privileges, however, did not ex- tend to the Dome, where the Stadt- halter, or governor, resided, and which, as it still continues, was independent of the town, and not considered Reval. But even this short age of gold was disturbed by many bitter squabbles about rights of boundary, &c., which have by no means fallen into disuse. In 1284 Reval was included in the Hanseatic bond, and meanwhile this fertile province of Esthonia, with its wealthy little capital, from being a widow's dowry, beeame a bride's por- tion, and in right of his wife, a princess of Sweden, was possessed for some time by a markgraf of Brandenburg. After which it was again bandied about, being even known for a few j'^ears to govern itself ! and was at length, the Danish coffers being low, formally sold, in 1347, to the Grand Master of the Teutonic Order at Marienburg, and given, at first in trust, and afterwards as an independent possession, to his ally, the Master of the Order in Livonia. " The knights were very glad of so fair a province as an arena for their deeds, and, as far as incessantly and alternately defending and embroiling it, did their duty most valiantly, build-
ing also castles, where they lived in great pomp, and introducing the chival- rous feeling of the age, and the luxury which always followed in the steps of these gay bachelors. And what with the increasing commercial wealth of Eeval, this luxury was carried to such a pitch, that the gentlemen wore heavy chains of gold, and pranced about on saddle-cloths embroidered with jewels, and the ladies sported diamonds and other precious stones in such profusion, that an old chronicler says, ' dass man mit dem Werth derselben einen guten Handel anfangen, und Weih und Kin- der tiahren Jconnte;' and at weddings and other such festivities, which were held in gothic guildhalls, some of which still exist, the beer was poured out so unsparingly, that the ladies with their diamond looped dresses found the floor too slippery to keep their footing, and hay was brought in to mop it up. At this time Plat Deutsch was the prevailing language, and perfectly con- sistent with these libations of malt and hops.
"It may be supposed that all this luxury fell hard upon the neglected serf peasant, and an old saying still exists, that ' Esthonia was an Elysium for the nobility, a heaven for the clergy, a mine of gold for the stranger, but a hell for the peasant,' who, agreeably to the history of most republics, was ground down to the most abject poverty. Consequently, in 1560, they rose in im- mense numbers, attacked castles and monasteries, killing and slaying all be- fore them, and menaced Heval, where many of their lords had taken refuge, so seriously, that with Russia, always a troublesome neighbour, invading their frontier, and unaided by their knights, who were fettered with debts, and had battles enough of their own to fight at this time, the Revalensers and the rest of the province formally thr§w ofl" the dominion of the Order, and, calling over the aid of Sweden, took the oaths of allegiance to King Eric XIV., in 1561.
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ROUTE 89. — REVAL.
Sect. IV.
" It is not to be supposed that the Order acquiesced passively in this trans- fer ; on the contrary, it made several attempts to reassume its rights, while Russia, to whom Esthoniahad ever been an apple of discord, laid repeated siege to many of the minor towns. But, otherwise, peace prevailed during the Swedish sway; and Gustavus Adolphus has left, in various wise institutions, many traces of his paternal government, and Christina, his daughter, of hers, principally in the establishment of a so-called Ritterhank, or regular matri- culated nobility. But the days of peace were chequered by alternate plague and famine, and the Hanseatic influence declining, Reval declined also.
" The manner in which the provinces of Esthonia and Livonia were wrested from Charles XII. of Sweden, by Peter the Great, is too well known to need re- petition. The Esthonians esteem them- selves fortunate in being united to Russia under so enlightened a Tzar, who left them all their privileges, and took much delight in his new acquisition, visiting Reval several times, and insti- tuting public improvements. Reval indeed has received visits from all the sovereigns in turn, who have paid due homage to its beauty and salubrity ; and also, among similar events, remem- bers with pride the visit of Nelson.
" The province has been allowed to retain its own jurisdiction, which is administered by twelve Landrathe, a strictly honorary office, dating from the fourteenth century. The most dis- tinguished names which fill the pages of Esthonian history, either in an epi- scopal, military, or civil capacity, are those of the Barons Meyendorf, Uxkiill, the Esthonian nan^ for the same, but now a distinct family, Rosen, and Un- gern, all of which still exist in very flourishing condition, with many others, of more recent origin, from Sweden, Russia, and all parts of Europe, in- cluding even the names of Douglas*,
* Of the house of Angus none now re-
O'Rourke, and Lewis of Menar, which stand here in friendly propinquity, their British origin being overlooked in their established Esthonian anti- quity.
" I will only add that Reval and Estho- nia— for their histories blend too much to be separated — were more or less under the dominion of Denmark until 1347, under that of the Order or Schwerdt-briider until 1561, under Sweden until 1700, since when they have proved themselves most loyal sub- jects to Russia, who selects her best civil and military oflicers from this Polyglot colony, and are caressed as ' mes hons Estoniens^ by Nicholas I., whom Boje chrani! or, in good English, God preserve ! " *
Reval is divided into two parts, the upper and lower town; the former, perched on the top of a rocky eminence, about a mile in circumference, encloses within its old gothic walls the Dom, the castle, with the residence of the governor, the commandant's house, the gymnasium, and the houses of the" no- bility. The whole of this quarter is called the Dom, and no plebeian is permitted to possess ground on this aristocratic reef of rocks. The lower part, the descent to which is very steep, at one spot almost dangerous for carriages, is of considerable extent, and in the broad streets, stretching to the flat sandy shore of the harbour, are the dwellings and warehouses of the mer- chants, the rath-house, the guild-house^ the bank, the barracks, and the theatre. The churches of Reval are nixmerous, including five Russian, one Swedish, one Danish, and four German. The Lutheran are of great antiquity. To speak of the Olaikirche as such, may seem somewhat paradoxical, for the church of that name, which was origin- ally built in 1329, was struck, and partially consumed, by lightning no less than eight times; and it is only
main, the last Countess Douglas, a beautiful heiress, having married Count Igelstrom. * Letters from the Baltic.
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EOUTE 89. REVAL.
365
eight years ago since it rose from the ashes in which it was laid in 1820,
" Its archives and library, however, preserve an unbroken history ; and many of its architectural ornaments, coeval ■ with its earliest erection, have been saved from the flames. Among the former is a piece of sculpture of great richness, consisting of two wide niches, the upper one empty, the lower occu- pied by a skeleton, with a toad resting on the body and a serpent crawling out of the ear — supposed to typify the de- struction of an idol image recorded to have been filled with these reptiles : and with a gorgeous breadth of stone work in eight partitions around, ex- hibiting the triumph of Christianity in the Passion of our Saviour, and other parts of the New Testament. This bears date 1513. The tower of St. Olai, which has been rebuilt precisely on the former scale and form, is about 250 English feet high, and serves as a landmark in navigation. This edifice, the cathedral church of the lower town, is in pure early gothic, with lancet windows of great beauty, and dedicated to St. Olai, a canonized king of Nor- way, who mounted the throne at the beginning of the 11th century, and first introduced Christianity among the Nor- wegians.
" The next church of importance is that of St, Nicholas — a large, three- aisled structure with a massive square tower — built by Bishop Nicholas in 1317. This appears to have eluded the zeal of the iconoclasts of reforming times, who throughout Esthonia seem to have been as hasty in stripping the churches as her doctors were in de- nuding the creed, and possesses many relics of Roman Catholic times. The most interesting are the pictures of the altar, especially two wing paintings containing small half-length figures of bishops, cardinals, priests, and nuns — three on each side — in Holbein's time and manner, on a blue ground, and of great beauty. Also a picture, placed for better lighting at the back of the
altar — a Crucifixion, including the two thieves, with town and mountains in the background, and a procession of equestrian figures entering the gate. This is of singular beauty of expression and form, though much injured by re- cent renovations — of the school of Ra- phael, and especially in the manner of Andrea del Salerno.
" Immediately at.the entrance of the church, on the right hand, is a repre- sentation of the oft-repeated Dance of Death — coinciding not only in age and arrangement, but also word for word in the Plat Deutsch verses beneath, with the same subject in St. Mary's Church at Liibeck — in some instances each mu- tually assisting the other's deficiency. The beginning, including the Pope, the Emperor, the Empress, the Cardinal, and the King, which, if I mistake not, are failing in Liibeck, are here pre- served. The rest is lost or defaced, though the inscriptions are in a few cases still legible — and terminating with ' Dat WegenTcind to dem Dode ' the cradle-child to death — with this naive couplet :
• O Dot ! wo shal ik dat vorstan ! Ik shal danssen, un kan nicht ghan !'
or, in good German,
' O Tod ! wie soil ich dass verstchen ! Ich soil tanzen, und kann nicht gehen !'
which we may thus render in English —
Oh Death ! what's the use of all this talk ! Would you have me dance before I can walk?
But the peculiar drollery of Plat Deutsch is unattainable in a more cul- tivated tongue.
" The chapels of some of the chief nobility, with massive iron gates and richly adorned with armorial bearings, are attached to this church, though all in a very neglected state. The Rosen chapel is now occupied by the unburied body of a prince, who expiates in this form a life of extravagance. The Duke de Croy — a Prince of the Roman Em- pire, Markgraf of Mount Cornette, and of other fiefs, &c., and descended from the kings of Hungary — after serving
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ROUTE 89, — REVAL.
Sect. IV.
with distinction under tlie Emperor of Austria and King of Poland, passed over to the service of Peter the Great, obtained the command of the Russian army, and was defeated by Charles XII. at the battle of Narva, Fearing the Tzar's resentment, he surrendered to the enemy, and was sent a prisoner at large to Reval, which has been, and is still, the scene of honourable banishment for state prisoners, and which at that epoch was yet under the sway of Sweden. Here, indulging a passion for ostenta- tion, he managed to spend so much, that though only a few years elapsed be- tween his removal to Reval and his death, the residue of his fortune was unequal to meet his debts, upon which the numerous creditors, availing them- selves of an old law, which refuses the rites of sepulture to insolvent debtors, combined to deny him a Christian bu- rial, and the body was placed in a cellar in the precincts of this church. It might be imagined that when these said relentless creditors were not only dead, but, unlike their noble debtor, buried also, the Duke de Croy would have found a resting-place ; but when that time came, all who had profited, as well as all those who had lost by his extravagance, were gone also, and their descendants cared little how he had lived or how he had died. So the body remained in its unconsecrated abode, •Until, accident having discovered it, in 1819, in a state of perfect preservation owing to the anti-putrescent properties of the cold, it was removed into the Rosen chapel, and now ranks among the lions of this little capital. The corpse is attired in a rich suit of black velvet and white satin, equally unin- jured by the tooth of time — with silk stockings, full curled wig, and a ruff of the most exquisite point lace, which any modern grand duchess might also approve. The remains are those of a small man, with an aristocratic line of countenance. There is something at all times imposing in viewing the cast- off dwelling of an immortal spirit —
that clay which weighs down our better portion, and which, though so worth- less in itself, is so inexpressibly dear to those who love us, and so tenaciously clung to by ourselves. Life had quitted this tenement 138 years. The old Sa- cristan, a little shrivelled mummy of a man', scarcely more human-looking than the body before us, profits in his creature-comforts by the exhibition of this dust, which he stroked and caressed with something of gratitude and fellow- feeling, and, locking the ponderous door, ejaculated, ' Da liegt mein tester Freund /' — ' There lies my best friend ! ' Poor Duke de Croy !
" In respect of antiquity the Estho- nian church bears off the palm in Reval, being mentioned by Jean, Bishop of Reval, when he granted to the city the 'Jus eccledasticum et episco'pale^ after the form of the Liibeck statute, in 1284, a time when St. Olai and St. Nicholas did not exist.
*' The Russian church, or one adapted to the Russian service in later times, is also of great antiquity, but has been altered to the external type of all Greek places of worship.
" The Hotel de Ville has been also re- novated with windows of modern form, which possess no recommendation be- yond that of admitting more light. Within, the magisterial chair is still held in the empty and worn-out forms of days of more importance, and the effigy of the burgher who had his tongue cut out for divulging a state secret, warns his successors of less responsible times to be more discreet.
" Several Guildhalls, with groined roofs, tell of those corporations of mer- chants who here met for business or feasting, and are now passed away with the commerce of Reval : with the ex- ception, however, of the corps of the Schivarzen H&upter, les Freres tetes- noires — so called probably from their patron saint, St. Mauritius — a military club of young merchants formed in 1343, for the defence of the city. These were highly considered — were
Finland.
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367
endowed by the Masters of the Order with the rank and privileges of a mili- tary body — wore a peculiar uniform — had particular inauguration ceremonies and usages — and bore their banner, ' a2tt vincendum aut riioriendum ,' on many occasions most gallantly against the numberless foes Avho coveted the riches of Reval. Every young appren- tice was required, on pain of a heavy ^ fine, to enter this corps upon the first year of his domiciliation in Reval, and each new brother Avas welcomed with solemn observances, and plentiful draughts of beer, now substituted by wine.
"On some occasions this corps suf- fered severely, and a defaced monument on the Pernau road, a few versts from the Avails of Reval, attests the slaughter of many of their numbers by the Rus- sians in 1500. Each successive sceptre has acknowledged their rights — Peter the Great became a member, and him- self inscribed his name in their regis- ters. Catherine II. granted their chief the rank of a captain in the Rus- sian army. Alexander Avas admitted to the brotherhood, and ordained that the banner should thenceforth receive the military salute ; and Nicholas, equally recognising the ancient deeds or present harmlessness of the Order, has deviated from his general con- demnation of all associations, and is himself an Imperial Schwarzhaupt. The last time that this corps was sum- moned for the defence of the city was on occasion of the Swedish invasion in 1790. The chief edifice where they held their meetings is curiously adorned in front with a Moor's head and other armorial pieces of sculpture ; but within it has been stripped of all antiquity, excepting the archives of the Order, and portraits of the various crowned heads and Masters of the Livonian Order who have held Esthonia in their sway. The altar-piece from the convent of St. Brigitta — a magnificent ruin upon the sea-coast in full vieAv of Reval — is also placed here, being a piece in three
compartments, in the Van Eyck man- ner, comprising Grod the Father, with the Infant Saviour in the centre — the Virgin on the one hand, the Baptist on the other — and greatly recalling por- tions of the famous altar-piece painted for St. Bavon's Church at Ghent. On the back of the two wings, and closing over the centre-piece, is the subject of the Annunciation — two graceful figures in grey, of later Italian date.
" This is but an inadequate sketch of the antiquities of this city, which is further strewn with the ruined remains of convents and monasteries of consider- able interest, though too much choked with parasitical buildings to be seen to any advantage. The outer circumfer- ence is bound in with walls and toAvers of every irregular form, most of which have significant names, as for instance, * der lange Herrmann,' a singularly beautiful and lofty circular tower crowning the Dom ; and ' die dicke Marguerite^ a corpulent erection lower in the town.
" The Dom is equally stored with traces of olden times, consisting of the old castle, which encloses an immense quadrangle, and is in part appropriated to the governor's residence ; the Dom Church, a building of incongruous ar- chitecture, is filled with tombs of great interest, of the Counts de la Gardie, Thurn, Horn, &c., beneath which lie the vaults of several corporations of trade, variously indicated — the shoe- makers' company by the bas-relief of a colossal boot in the pavement — the butchers' by an ox's head, &c. Fur- ther on is the Ritterschafts Ilaus, or Hotel de la Noblesse, where the Lan- drathe assemble, the Landtag is held, and all the business connected with the aristocracy of the province con- ducted. Every family of matriculated nobility has here its shield of arms and date of patent ; while on tablets of white marble are inscribed the names of all the noble Esthonians who served in the French campaign, and on tables of black marble the names of those who
368
EOUTE 89. REVAL.
Sect. IV.
fell ; — and truly Esttonia has not been niggard of her best blood. The archives of the Ritterschaft do not date beyond 1590, all preceding documents having perished on a voyage to Sweden ; but important additions have been made by the researches of the well-known Grer- man writer Kotzebue among the secret state-papers of the Teutonic Order at Konigsberg.
Like ancient Thebes, Reval is entered by seven gates ; they are all picturesque erections, decorated with various histo- rical mementos, the arms of the Danish domination, the simple cross of the order on the municipal shield of the city. The Schmieedetforte is celebrated for a daring act of magisterial justice, which took place in 1535. At all times a petty animosity had existed between the rich burghers and lawless nobility of the province, who troubled the commerce of the city and laughed at the laws of the former ; and, on one occasion, the atrocious murder of one of his own peasants in the streets of Reval by Baron Uxklill of Reisenberg, one of the most powerful nobles, so exasperated the magistrates that they menaced the murderer with the utmost severity of the law if ever he came within their jurisdiction. Nevertheless, and despising their threat, the baron, attended by a slender retinue, entered the city in mere bravado, when the magistrates, true to their word, seized him, and after due trial he was con- demned and executed in full view of his friends, without the walls, beneath the Schmieedetforte. Long and san- guinary were the disputes which fol- lowed this act, and, as some pacification to Uxklills memory,the burghers walled up the gateway, which was not re- opened till the beginning of this cen- tury. In the summer there is an annual fair called the Jahrmarkt, which is held beneath the old elm-trees before the church of St. Nicholas — a most interesting scene to the stranger — and forms the morning lounge of the inhabitants during that season of the
year. In the evening Catherinthal is the favourite promenade. This is an Imperial Ltistschloss, or palace, at a little distance from the town, surrounded with fine trees and well kept grounds, or what is here termed " ein superber Park," which during six weeks of the summer months is thronged with fashion- able groups, who eat ices, drink choco- late, talk scandal, and make love, as people do elsewhere.
" This residence, which is literally a bower of verdure redeemed from a waste of sand, is the pleasant legacy of Peter the Grreat to the city of Reval. Being a frequent visitor to Reval, it was here that he first erected a modest little house beneath the rocks of the Laaks- berg, from the windows of which he could overlook his infant fleet riding at anchor in the bay, and which still ex- ists. But a few years previous to his death, the present palace, within a stone's throw of his Dutch house, — for all Peter the Great's own private do- miciles testify whence he drew his first ideas of comfort, — was constructed, which he surrounded with pleasure grounds, and presented to his consort by the name of Catherinthal. This gift he increased by the purchase of surrounding estates to the value of se- veral millions of roubles — sufficient to have assured to the empress, in case of need, a fitting retreat from the frowns of Russian fortune. These es- tates have been gradually alienated and bestowed on private individuals, and Catherinthal is reduced to little more than its gardens. It has been the temporary sojourn of all the crowned heads of Russia in succession ; and the treaty of peace concerning Silesia, be- tween the two most powerful women of coeval times whom the world has ever known — Maria Theresa of Austria and Catherine II. of Russia— was here rati- fied in 1746.
" Nevertheless, whoever prefers the sweet influences of nature, uninter- rupted by silks and satins, and uni- forms and noisy music, must visit Cathe-
Finland.
EOUTE 89. REVAL.
369
rinthal in the early morning, when a sweeter spot for the enjoyment of soli- tude, or of that better happiness, a con- genial mind, heart, and taste, cannot be desired. It seems that beneath this dry surface of sand the trees have found a rich soil, for vegetation is here of the utmost southern luxuriance, and the thick mat of foliage around and above only reveals occasional glimpses of the grey rocks or line of blue sea beyond. Or, if you wish to break from this thicket, you have only to climb a rugged path up the rocks, whence all this verdure is seen wreathed in rich festoons at your feet, and above this luxuriant green carpet lies Reval, with its spires and towers in stripes of varying light and shade — the proud Domberg rising like a gigantic citadel, or gothic Acropolis, in the midst: while half surrounding the city spreads the cool placid sea, and little tongiies of land carry the abodes of man far into the waters, and deep bays carry the waters high into the shores : and the eye quits towers and domes for masts and shrouds, and further still rests on a solitary fortress insulated in the sea — the last bond between the crowded city and the huge men-of- war lying beyond. And beyond all are the misty islands of the Baltic ; and above all a midsummer mornmg sky, hazy with growing heat, and speckled with a few lazy clouds."
The population of Reval, which is 15,000, is greatly swelled during the summer by hundreds of Petersburgians that come here to bathe, who, enervated by the dissipation of the winter and heated stoves, imbibe fresh life from a daily acquaintance with the air and salt water of this pretty bay. The steamers from the capital are constantly plying, so overloaded with passengers as greatly to neutralize accommodations otherwise good, " Bathing," says an Esthonian traveller already referred to, " is here conducted very differently from what it is with us : no chilly early rising, with a walk to the beach before the
air is aired — no tormentor in the shape of a rough fat fisherwoman or sailor to plunge you remorselessly beneath a horrid wave, from which you issue blinded, deafened, and stLfled, and in- comparably colder and crosser than you went in : but here, when the day is hottest, you step leisurely in, like a water nymph, bathe head and face, nestle gradually beneath the rippling waves, and listen to their soft whispers, and dabble with their smooth resistance for twenty minutes if you please : emerging with limbs warm, pliant, and strengthened, and with the most ardent desire for a renewal of this luxury, which may be safely indulged in again the same afternoon. Then, when the heat of the day is subsiding, the deep shades of Catherinthal are the universal resort, and equipages and pedestrians line the road from Reval. Here a band of military music plays, and you parade about, and your friends join you, and you sit down, and the gnats sting you ; and if you don't like this you may adjourn to the Salle-de- danse close by, where the limbs, so late floating listlessly on the waves, now twirl round in the hurrying waltz, or, as we have said above, you may talk scandal and make love as people do elsewhere." *
To realize so luxurious a descrip- tion of sea-bathing as that given by this fair mermaid and author, will be, we think, a great inducement to the traveller to visit Reval. A day may likewise be profitably and agreeably spent in hiring a droshky and driving to Padis Kloster, distant thirteen miles from the town, where, beneath the shade of as fine a ruin as Esthonia can offer, with all the adjuncts of an old moat and contemporary tree, and that air of grandeur which clings to a spot after its worldly importance and less picturesque situation have declined, the picnicker may enjoy a meal, al fresco, to perfection.
* Letters from the Baltic.
370 ROUTES 90-91. STOCKHOLM TO ST. PETERSBURGH. Sect. IV.
" This monastery is mentioned as such in the beginning of the four- teenth century, when, owing to starva- tion without its walls, and doubtless a very comfortable life within, the pea- sants rose in mimbers around, mur- dered the abbot and twenty-eight of the monks, and otherwise so devastated the place, that in 1448 it received a further and full consecration .at the hands of Heinrich, Baron Uxklill, Bishop of Reval ; at which time it was ordained, that whoever should in any way enrich or benefit this Kloster of Padis, should, for any sins he might commit, have forty days of penance struck off. Hence, perhaps, arose the peculiar repute and custom in the sale of indulgences which this monastery enjoyed. Now, however, it stands ut- terly forgotten, and the stranger within its gates is infinitely a greater object of interest to the passers by than all the mute lessons, moral, historical, or picturesque, of its grey stones.
Reval has an arsenal, and the fleet from Cronstadt rendezvous here at times. In the harbour there is generally some Russian vessel of war — the hymn of the Russian sailors, which may be heard nightly at sunset, is not remark- ably harmonious. The club of the nobility and savans contain some hand- some apartments, and a collection of portraits of Swedish sovereigns, arms, and relics of remarkable persons. The English, French, and German news- papers are taken in here, and a stranger may readily procure admittance. At Reval is the mausoleum of Admiral Greig, the hero of Tschesme, who was buried here with great pomp in 1788.
In twenty-four hours after leaving Reval the steamer will land the travel- ler at St. Petersburgh.
ROUTE 90.
STOCKHOLM TO THE COAST, AND THENCE BY THE ISLANDS OP ALAND TO ABO.
This route is but seldom taken since the introduction of steam navigation
between Stockholm and Abo ; the dis- tance between the capital of Sweden and the old one of Finland is, by this Route, about 250 miles. The road to the coast winds to the N.E., through a pleasing and thickly wooded country, greatly intersected by small lakes. The following are the several stages : —
Eusta, 17 5 versts.
Brotthy, 17^.
Hall, 121.
Rilanda, 12|-.
Kragsta, IO5.
Svanherga, 10^.
Stahhy, 12i.
Trdsta, 15|.
Grisselhamn, 17 5. Making 115 versts, or 76 j English miles. From Grisselhamn a boat must be hired to take the traveller to Aland, about 28 English miles distant, and thence by the archipelago of islands to Abo.
ROUTE 91.
stockholm to st. peteusburgh by Abo, helsingforss, and viborg.
It has already been observed that the most convenient mode of reaching St. Petersburgh is by the steam-boat from Stockholm. In winter the road must be taken ; but this, though well constructed and kept in good repair, runs through a most uninteresting and lifeless country. Between Abo and Helsingforss, a distance of 150 miles, there is no town, and scarcely a village, and the view on each side of the road is not more cheerful than the generality of Swedish scenery, and comprises a forest of birch and fir trees, a sandy plain, or some rocky elevation. The first stage is
Rungo, 13 versts.
Wista, 14.
Keala, 16. There is a tolerable inn here.
Sala, 12f.
Lambala, 18|.
Olsbole, 17.^.
The two next stages are very sandy.
Finland.
KOUTE 91. — BOKGO LOVISA.
371
Bjorsbeg, 15.^. A few versts from hence a cascade and forge are to be seen, and therefore worthy of being mentioned, on a road where there is nothing to see ; there is also a lake in the neighbourhood. The finest lakes in Finland are those in the provinces of Savolax and Carelia, and these may be compared for beauty to those of Dalecarlia. In Sweden every spot of ground that can be cultivated is so, and evidences of this will be observed all along the road; no labour is too fatiguing, no season too inclement, and no ground, however sterile, discourages the Finlander. Wherever there is a patch of earth, there some cabin is seen to rear its head, sometimes a temporary structure, inhabited only in the sum- mer season.
Nyhy, 16. Road still sandy.
Kyrhstad, 16^.
Bolstadt, 14. A dirty, wretched post-house; road heavy and hilly to the next post station.
Asverley, 15.
Finns, 12 1.
Grahn, 14. A wretched, dirty post- house.
Helsingforss, 15. For a description of this town see p. 360. From hence there is a steamer to Viborg, where the traveller must take post-horses and journey in a hondkara to St. Peters- burgh, If he continues by the road the next station is
Henriksdal, 15.
Sihho, 15,i.
Norr VrekosH, 12^.
BoRGo, 12 2. A small town, the miserable houses and crooked streets of which are in high contrast with the magnificent ones of the capital. Borgo is, however, the seat of a bishop ; and here resides Runeberg, the favourite poet of the Fins — for even they who are without a sun half the year are blessed with one poet, whose harp is attuned to granite, firs, and the rough music of the northern blasts ; and these are grateful themes to his countrymen, more particularly when
thus placed before them in that form which nature alone can pour forth through her children. Her works, those which he loves to praise and sing of, and with no mediocre talent, sur- round the deserted town in which he resides, and though it is no doubt a pleasure to him to read of the graceful and rich foliage, the sunny skies, the perfumed air and golden sunsets of a southern clime, he is probably content with those images which he finds in his own stern climate and wild coun- try.
Illby, 16. A poor house, but very civil people, as indeed almost all Fins are.
Torsley, 1Z\. Road hilly.
Pirno, 9j.
LoviSA, 12. ''This town," says Monsieur Marmier, a French traveller, "bears, with great reason, a woman's name, for it is a graceful and charming spot." One of its streets descends to the very sea-shore, while others are ar- ranged in a kind of amphitheatre on the side of a hill. Lovisa was once a frontier post of the Swedes, but its im- portance ceased when these provinces were ceded to Russia. Some remains of its former defences are yet to be seen. Two or three massive walls with their embrasures, even now almost per- fect, seem at a distance to command the road which approaches the town. Here the passport is sometimes in- spected. The country beyond this is wild enough, no traces of cultivation can be discerned, and as far as the eye can reach it is one barren heath, with here and there a few boulder stones, and fir trees thinly scattered among the heather. The road, however, is excellent, hard and smooth, and full of picturesque windings ; and the traveller will be fairly hurled along at a rapid pace. Nervous people have no busi- ness to travel in Finland ; the horses, though small, are full of life, and know of no other pace than the gallop, whether it is up or down hill — once touched by the carriage pressing against
372
ROUTE 91. — LOVISA.
Sect. IV.
them, off they go down the pitch of the hill ; to endeavour to stop them is useless, and as they never stumble, the best mode of proceeding is to let them go, keeping them as much as possible in the middle of the road. To most men there is great excitement and plea- sure in this rapid travelling, equalled only by the bounding spring of a gal- lant craft, when, with a fresh breeze, she walks the briny element,every sail swell- ing out with the increasing wind, and the foam dancing round her and dashed from her bows, as if spurning the waves on which she floats. The traveller will, either on land or sea, thus speed on his way through Finland, and fre- quently without meeting one human being from one station to the next; the dark pines and massive boulder stones (many of a magnitude which will astonish the traveller or any geologist who has not traversed this country), the red verst posts, and a ragged scanty flock, are the only objects that meet the eye. In some places partial clearings, principally made by fire, add one new feature to the landscape, and the charred and blackened trunks of the larger trees, which have resisted the power of the flames, standing like gaunt sentinels in the black space around them, contrast strongly with the dark green of the living pines and the bright lichens of the boulder stones scattered around them ; many of these huge stones arise from the earth 'in single masses, and it was from one of these that the Alexander pillar in St. Petersburgh, a single shaft of upwards of eighty feet, was wrought. Other boulders may be seen heaped up one on the other in strange confusion and fantastic shapes, exactly as they lay when washed there by the deluge, that is, by the will of that omnipo- tent being to whom " one day is as a thousand years, and a thousand years as one day." The drive between Lovisa and the next station is very beautiful, and hill and vale are passed, with scarcely time to look down on the tor-
rent that foams and boils below in its narrow and rocky bed, as the traveller dashes over the narrow arch that spans each yawning chasm.
Ahofors, 16. The position of this village is one of the most picturesque on the road. Approaching it from Lovisa, there is a broad stream winding along a valley, immediately beyond which rises a hill of considerable eleva- tion ; its sides and summit are covered with red cottages, and around them is a ' forest with i;s giant boulders looking like specks on the dark green mantle ; a long wocden bridge traverses the river, and over it the chances are the traveller will be whirled with the ve- locity of an express train.
Brohy, 20. Between this and the next station, the fortress which form- erly marked the frontier of Sweden, and was then guarded with the most jealous care, is passed. Its scarped sides and deep ditches still remain; but the place is, in other respects, totally neglected, and even nninhalDited. Shortly after, a turn in the road will bring the voyageur in sight of a beau- tiful waterfall of the River Kymen, near Hogforss ; as such, it would be consi- dered by many, but to travellers who are fresh from that of Trolhiittan, or those of Italy, its beauties will appear some- what questionable. This stage is hilly ; the road, however, good.
Hogforss, 14. The next stage is long, and almost the whole way through one unbroken pine forest ; the trees com- ing in many places quite down to the edge of the road ; the whole country being covered with stupendous boulder stones, many of them far larger than the one which forms the base of the celebrated statue of Peter the Great, at St. Peters- burgh. In some places the rock pierces through its thin covering of earth and vegetable matter, and spreads its hard surface, uncovered by shrub or plant, over a space of many square yards. At length the view opens, and the for- tress of Fredericksham is seen on the opposite side of an arm of the sea.
Finland.
EOUTE 91. FEEDERICKSHAM. — VIBOEG.
373
whicli runs some miles inland, and round the shores of which the road winds its way.
Fbedbkicksham, 20. The works here were constructed on Vauban's principle ; but, judging by the neglected aspect of the place, Russia has very little use for them. Originally it was a place of great strength, and inac- cessible on two sides; the approaches are covered and protected by field- works to a considerable distance, and the only entrance to the town, which looks as deserted as the fortifications, is by a narrow passage winding round the angle of a bastion, enfiladed in every direction by the works from the body of the place. The post-house seems to have escaped the general ruin, being one of the best on the road ; and an English traveller mentions that in half an hour he was quite at home, and ex- plains the assertion, by stating, that the landlord, in a black silk nightcap, put before him the following truly national fare, — " soup, fish, beefsteaks, and pan- cakes, not to mention some very good port wine — the entire charge for which came to less than 55. English." Frede- ricksham was, in former days, the resi- dence of the governor of the province : a massive tower, constructed in the middle of a square, overlooked the Avhole town, and from this every street diverged like the spokes of a wheel. It was in this tower, and on the 5th of September, 1809, that the treaty of peace was signed, by which Sweden surrendered Finland to Russia. A fire consumed this tower and several of the streets some few years since.
GronwicJc, 16.
Peterlah, 17^.
Uri^ula, 155.
Sachjarvi, 16|.
Risalahs, 16\. Not far from hence are the granite quarries from which were quarried the monolith columns for the Izak Church in St. Petersburgh.
ViBOEG, 29, does not contain any regular hotel. The post-house, kept by a German, has, for these regions,
pretty good accommodation ; besides this there are several restaurants, but their appearance is far from inviting. The port of Viborg is of great extent, and inclosed by two large islands, which form as it were two natural break- waters. The houses here are inhabited by merchants, workmen, and inn- keepers, and surrounded by immense quantities of deals, of which there is a considerable export trade. The town is about twelve versts from the harbour, and at the end of a large bay. As a fortress it ranks high, both for position and strength ; the sea washes nearly the whole length of the outer walls, while battery upon battery commands every approach. Between the lines and the city there flows a broad arm of the sea, in the midst of which stands a solitary rock, crowned with a fine old tower of other days, rearing its still proud head, high and imposing, above all around it. It must in ages past have been a magnificent donjon keep, and the shot marks upon its walls bear witness that the tide of battle has often raged around it. Its upper stories are now roofless ; the lower ones are used as a prison ; and what a trial must it be to tne inmates to gaze day after day upon the waters rolling up to the very walls of their dungeon in un- controlled liberty. The view of this frontier fortress, with its churches and domes flashing in the sun, and its long lines of batteries and bastions rising in massive strength from the water's edge, is very striking; but the approach to it by land is detestable ; from the foot of the glacis to the post-house the pave- ment is of the most execrable kind, and should the traveller happen to be in a hondhara we would advise his walk- ing this last half-mile. The castle of Viborg, destroyed by fire, and now in ruins, was built in 1293, by the brave Torkel Knudtzon, one of the most il- lustrious Swedes mentioned in history. The fortifications date from the 15th century. Viborg was then one of the chief cities in Finland, and the seat of
s
374
EOUTE 91. VIBOEG.
Sect. IV.
a bishop. Attacked on several occa- sions by the Russians, it defended itself with great bravery. In 1710 the place was besieged by Peter the Great, and taken, after a hard struggle, which occu- pied several weeks. The peace of 1721 , known as the treaty of Nystad, put the Tzar in definitive possession of it and the neighbouring country ; and in 1745 the treaty of Abo enlarged still further this conquest. The Swedes, since the days of Peter, have always played a losing game when at war with the Russians; and in the desparate bat- tle fought here between the two fleets in 1790, they lost nine ships of the line, three frigates, and upwards of twenty galleys. For nearly a century the con- quered portions of Finland, distin- guished as Gamla Finland, or Ancient Finland, were subject to the same re- gulations in civil matters as the rest of Russia. After the conquest of the country had been completed they were reunited to the provinces from which they had been separated, and the same privileges were conceded to them which Finland had originally enjoyed under the Swedes. Viborg is now the govern- ment town of the province, and has a supreme court of justice; it contains 3000 inhabitants and a large garrison; the former are divided into Fins, Russians, Swedes, and Q-ermans; and as each of them tries to talk his neigh- bour's language, as well as his own, the result is the most strange lingo possible. The Finnish passport is given up here, and exchanged for a pada- roshna, or order for post-horses, and this must be shown at each post station before the postmaster will put to the quadrupeds. There is a celebrated fall near Viborg.
On leaving this town the traveller will have the satisfaction of again toiling over half a mile of detestable pavement, and be3'^ond it the road is no longer the hard, compact, granite-like track, threading its way amidst the heather and boulder stones. The open country gained, a wild barren heath is seen
extending as far as the horizon, with but slight indications of population, and none of cultivation. The few human beings who here cross the tra- veller's path give evidence that he is now in Russia, for the peasantry may be observed wearing their shirts out- side, and their trousers stuffed into their boots ; beards too may be seen on al- most every chin, including that of the postmaster at the next station. Lelpero, 17. Khotaka, 17.
Kivriolia, 13. The road good from this station to Pamjpala, 19.
Keveneb, 12. A view of the gulf and its rocky shores is here and there obtained from the high ground, but in- land the same wild uncultivated scenery prevails, except where an occasional village, surrounded by inclosures, or some straggling herds of cattle present themselves. These villages sometimes extend nearly a quarter of a mile on each side of the road in one long uni- form row of wooden cottages, their sharp pointed gable ends facing the road, and little windows thronged with pale, dirty-looking faces, but lit up by curiosity and the desire to catch a glimpse of the passing traveller. No houses of a superior description are seen ; no building stands forth as that of the squire or the yeoman. Excep- tions will occasionally occvir ; but the houses of a better kind are either the property of a nobleman's steward or a government official. Ravoike, 13.
BelefstroosTcaia, 12. Here is the frontier custom-house, at which there will be an hour's detention ; the search, though in all probability courteous, will be a rigorous one, for the custom duties of Finland are much lower than those of Russia; these privileges were guaranteed when the former was annexed to the latter country. A few versts before reaching this station the road becomes execrable, increasing, if possible, in badness to the next station, and we
Finland.
EOUTE 91. VIBOEG.
375
think it may safely be pronounced one of the worst in Europe — perhaps the very worst. No doubt localities might be selected in Avhich a carriage would sooner be broken or upset, but I doubt if even the ingenuity of a Russian could devise any mode which could shake a man more unmercifully than this atrocious pavement. The stones, of which the centre of the road is paved, are of the most appalling dimen- sions, and, rising in different degrees of elevation, form a succession of stony hillocks ; in fact, the road can only be compared to one made of milestones of unequal heights. On either side it is unpaved, but the mud here is frequently so deep as to be impassable. A French traveller describing this road remarks, *' that before he reached St. Petersburgh one of his boxes was broken, the pad- lock burst from the hasp, his carpet bag was torn, his hat-box reduced to shreds, and himself and his companion a mass of bruises."
Possibly the reason for this road being so bad is that the Viborgian peasant has a most singular and, for an elder son, awkward belief, that the dead can at certain times re- visit the paternal mansion ; so that those who do not desire this honour are in the habit of placing their defunct re- lative on the very roughest bondkara they can find, and carting him to his place of sepulture over the largest ruts and most rocky projections that lie in the way, in the hope — fervent, no doubt — that he will be so strongly im- pressed with the pain and fatigue of the journey, that he will not feel disposed to travel the same road again. We think a live Englishman will do the same.
The next and last station is
DranisJineTcova, 20, and 650 versts from Abo. Desolate, indeed, is this post- house, which stands in a large yard ; in the front is a pond, and around it a number of wretched outbuildings.
The road, however, though still very bad, is decidedly more bearable, and the carriage or hondhm^a can occasionally
quit the pavement altogether for a considerable distance. Two or three rather handsome country houses, built in a style much better adapted for a southern climate than for the rigours of a northern winter, are here passed ; but the general aspect of these last fifteen miles, even to within sight of the city, is as dreary and uncultivated as any part of the country passed through. Nothing indicates the vicinity of the capital of a vast empire, except the numbers of soldiers of all kinds in every village. The road in some places is covered with long strings of carts {telegas) going to market : occasion- ally a glimpse of the sea may be caught on the right, but the country generally is a dead level ; and though the traveller will be every minute on the alert for some indication of St. Petersburgh, he will not be able to discern any object which his imagination can convert into a portion of the city of the Tzar. Long, however, before he comes in sight of it, his progress will be arrested by a wooden barrier, which hangs across the road like a giant's fishing-rod. This is the spot at which passports and padaroshnas are exa- mined, and the former surrendered, before travellers are permitted to pro- ceed. For some time after entering the suburbs the tourist will pass through dirty and wretched streets, until a sudden turn brings him in view of the massive walls and batteries of the cita- del ; beyond this again is seen the gilt spire of the Admiralty, rising in its delicately tapering proportions; then the long line of quays with granite parapets, and backed by palaces, meet the eye ; and, finally, the Troitskoi Bridge, which spans the full current of the Neva before it is divided by the islands, on which a large part of the city is built, is gained. This bridge is of wood, supported on barges moored in the stream ; a plan which has been adopted from the necessity of removing the bridge altogether at the beginning of the winter, until the frost has fairly
s 2
B76
BOUTE 92. — ABO TO TORNEA.
Sect. IV.
set in, and again in the spring, when it breaks up, as the huge masses of floating ice coming down from the La- doga Lake would infallibly sweep away everything that impeded their progress to the sea. The bridge has a pathway for foot passengers on each side of the oroad carriage way, and an iron railing, adorned at intervals of about three yards with imperial eagles and trophies of ancient arms richly gilt. In the centre stand two guard-houses, over which the Russian flag floats. Imme- diately facing the bridge is a large open space, called the Cliam]} de Mars. A statue of Smvdroff, in armour, rather larger than life, standing upon a granite pedestal, is placed here, with his face turned towards the citadel. Every building which surrounds this vast area looks like a palace — on one side are the immense barracks of the Imperial guard; beyond, the palace of the Grand Duke Michael, its spacious colonnade partially enveloped in trees ; while fur- ther to the left the gilded tower of the Engineers, surmounting a vast pile of building, and the far-famed summer gardens, with their splendid iron railing, complete the inclosure. Should the traveller desire to make for Mrs. Wil- son's, in the Galernoi Oulitza, he will turn sharp to the right after passing the bridge. At this spot is the Marble Palace, looking wretched and dilapi- dated, like a neglected and discarded favourite; next comes the Hermitage, with its theatre, and then the Winter Palace itself — almost a town in ex- tent. It is from this point that the glories of this astonishing city make the greatest impression upon the stranger — the square of the Admiralty opens before him — the Pillar of Alexander, with its gorgeously sculptured base and its solid granite shaft — the in- terminable faqade of the Admiralty, with its gilded spire and boulevards ; the long line of palaces forming the southern side of the square ; and lastly, the Etat Major and the Izak Church. In front of this church a new square.
but little inferior in size to the one al- ready passed, opens down to the river. The buildings of the Admiralty inclose it to the east, while in the centre stands the crowning ornament of all — Peter the Great, reining in that mighty charger as it rears, Avith expanded nos- tril and eye of fire, over the precipice before him. There he sits, every inch a monarch— the marble of Canova is not more instinct with life than the bronze of Falconet. The vast build- ing in which the senate meets, and where the courts of civil and criminal justice are held, stretches across the entire western side of this immense square, and gives access by means of an archway to the Galernoi.
But, splendid as these buildings are, the traveller, wearied with his journey, will be glad to find himself at the end of this street, and comfortably housed in Mrs, Wilson's hotel. The landlady's name is transformed into Vealso7i by the Russians, and under that pronun- ciation we recommend the traveller to inquire for her house.
ROUTE 92.
FROM Abo to torneA, alono the
EASTERN COAST OF THE GULF OF BOTHNIA.
There are but two routes through Finland which are likely to have many charms for ordinary travellers : one, along the eastern shore of the Gulf of Bothnia to the Swedish frontier at Tomca, a distance of about 564 English miles from Abo ; the other, along tha northern coast of the Gulf of Finland to St. Petersburgh, a distance of about 650 Russian versts, or 470 English miles. There are good roads in abun- dance leading through the various in- land provinces of Finland in all direc- tions, with the usual facilities for tra- velling ; but it is hardly to be imagined that any motive sufficiently strong will tempt a traveller to visit the wilds of a country, the scenery of which cannot bear comparison with that either of Sweden or Norway; and where the
Finland.
EOUTE 92. ABO TO TORNE°A.
377
only language generally understood (at all events in the interior) is one which hardly any foreigner can hope to learn. The lakes of Finland are by far its most curious natural feature, particu- larly that extraordinary chain to the north of Viborg, which communicates at one extremity with the Ladoga, and stretches forth its winding arms in all directions, from its central basin, the Soura, to the Gulf of Bothnia on the west, and the distant regions of Ulea- borg on the north. A cataract near Viborg is celebrated throughout all Finland, but there is a total deficiency of lofty mountains; and, with the excep- tion of that single fall, and a smaller one near Hogfors, on the route to St. Petersburgh, Finland has neither fjeld nor waterfall worth mentioning.
The route from Abo to Torne§. runs almost entirely within view of the wa- ters of the Gulf of Bothnia, which stretch to the distant horizon until you reach Christinestad, from which place both shores converge ; and, after pass- ing Wasa, the islands projecting both from the Finnish and Swedish coasts leave an interval of only about thirty English miles ; while the shallow and sunken rocks in this strait have the ap- pearance of having, in former ages, formed a barrier between the northern portions of this gulf and the waters of the Baltic, of which it now forms a por- tion. For a considerable distance along the coast the country is low and flat, and the road sandy, but on approaching the more northern provinces a greater resemblance to Sweden and Norway prevails. The rocks that line the in- dented coast become bolder in their outline, and the Fiord of Uleaborg abounds in scenery of the wildest cha- racter. The towns along the coast pos- sess but little to interest the traveller ; their trade is insignificant, and they are almost entirely devoid of activity.
Abo to Reso, 15 versts.
Masho, 14.
Wermo, 14.
Lentala, 12|.
Jhoda, \5\.
Unaja, 11.
Eatjmo, 6. Pay double for horses on leaving Raumo.
Tajala, 9.
Tojanie, 11.
Handby, 19.
Bjorneborg, 2O5. Pay double for horses on leaving Bjorneborg. There is a ferry here.
Norrmarlcs, 15.
Pirtejervi, 16|-.
Tuorila, 16.
Honrigervi, 12^.
Amossa, 9^.
Trashvih, 1\\.
Haxells, 8^.
Christinestad, 7^. Pay double for horses on leaving Christinestad. There is a ferry here.
Pyelax, 14 1.
Romlands, 11 -|.
Of er marl; 14^.
Porton, 12f .
Joliannisdahl, 122.
Pdmal, 14.
Toby, 8^.
Wasa, 14. The width of the Gulf of Bothnia here does not exceed sixty Eng. miles. The entire channel is thickly set with islands, and is very shallow in many places. You pay dou- ble for horses on quitting Wasa.
Martvis, 85.
Bjo7-no, 13.
Dahlharl KosJceley, 13|.
Ikofjoki, 10.
Ingo Simons, 14^.
Ny Carleby, 3$. Pay double for horses on leaving.
Sundby, 121.
Krahias, 12.
Abbors, 9.
Amine, 9.
Hamviila, 11.
Old Carleby, Z\. Pay double for horses on leaving.
WitticJc, 134.
Peitzo, 16g.
Kyrdla, 13|.
Tuorila, 1'2\.
RanJcala Anthila, 15^.
378
KOUTE 92.— ABO TO TOENEA.
Sect. IV.
Maninem, lOj.
Karfaludlo, 10|.
Luoto, 10|:.
Hannila, 16 J.
Hirldla, 10.
Brahestadt, 5.
Lassila, 12.
Potohoshi, 14 2.
Karinharela, lOf.
Bisi, llf.
Korpela, ^Z^.
Uleaborg (cross the tJlea River), 141. Pay double for horses on leav- ing.
Siwiila, 14^. Hanhela, 10 g. Stivala, 17|-. Wuornor, 18. Gestila, 18^. RuiTcla, 145, Pa5<^, 14. Rautika, 18^. JLi'MUcK, I84
ToRNEA, 8^. There is a ferry here- Total 829.
SECTION V.
RUSSIA.
PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
1. Money. — 2. Steamboats. — 3. Russian Railways. — 4. English Passport. — 5. Russian Custom House. — 6. Carte-de-Sejour and Russian Passport. — 7. Travelling. — Padaroshna. — 8. Posting. — 9. Diligences and Voituriers. — 10. DroshMes and Job Carriages. — 11. Baths. — 12. Stoves. — 13. Hotels, Boarding-Houses , and Lodgings. — 14. Restaurants, Cafes, and Tea- Houses. — 15. Medical Men. — 16. Roads and Roadside Accommodation, —17. Lacq%iey-de- Place and Servants. — 18. Hints on Climate, Clothing, d:c, — 19. A Vocabulary of Words of most frequent occurrence. — 20. Historical Notice.
ROUTES.
ROUTE ]
93. London to St. Petersburgh, by
Hamburgh, Lubeck, and Cronstadt.
94. St Petersburgh to Moscow .
95. St, Petersburgh to Berlin, by
Dorpat, Riga, and TaU' roggen, on the Russian frontier.
96. St. Petersburgh to Berlin, by
Vilkoriiir, Kovno, and Stolepaen, or Stallaponen, on the Prussian frontier .
97. St. Petersburgh to Odessa,, by
Vitepsh, Mohilefi and Kief . . .
98. St, Petersburgh to Reval, by
Narva ....
99. St, Petersburgh to Warsaw,
by Kovno, and Pultusk, and from the Polish Capi-
438 529
578
584
586 591
ROUTE PAGE
tal to Slupza, on the frontier . . . .591
100. St, Petersburgh to "Warsaw,
by Vilkomir, Wilna, and Grodno . . . .595
101. Moscow to Tula, by Vla-
dimir, Nijni Novgorod, and Riazan . . .595
102. Moscow to "Warsaw, by AS^mo-
lensh and Minsk . .603
103. Moscow to Odessa, by Titla,
KharTchoff, Orel, and Nico- laieff . . . .605
104. Odessa to the Crimea . 612
105. Odessa to Gallatz^ by Ovidio-
pol .... 619
106. Odessa to Tchernovetz, on
the Austrian frontier, by Tixrespol » . .619
1. MONEY.
The currency of Russia is gold, platina, silver, copper, and paper, (the latter pre- dominating,) and it may with truth be observed that the coinage of this coun.
380
MONEY.
Sect. V.
try is the handsomest in Europe, and the best adapted for use; the dies are simple and elegant in their design, and bold in their execution; each coin, too, is dis- tinctly marked with its value, and the exercise of the smallest vigilance will secure the stranger from imposition. Grold is scarce, not in the mines of Russia, but as a current coin, and, as in most European countries, England excepted, it bears an agio or premium, which will vary according to locality and the inge- nuity of the money-changer ; 3 per cent, is about the current rate over silver. The gold, silver, and copper coins struck at St. Petersburgh for the whole em- pire are as follows : —
GOLD —
Imperial .
Half, or Pol, Imperial
A Piece of
Silver Silver rubles, kopeks.
10 30
or
15 9
£ s. d.
1 14 4
0 ir 2
0 10 4
SILVER —
Silver kopeks. s. d.
1 Silver ruble, = s. —
4: » 1.
2 }i —
A Piece of
>y
» »
100 75 50 30 25 20 15 5
3 4 2 6 1 8, 1 0- 0 10 0 8 0 6 0 2
^^0
8 o ctT 1a i^.
/fc
;z —
COPPER —
Silver kopeks. A Piece of the value of 3 = 2 1
Copper kopeks, and marked 10* 5 3 }> i « 2
Pajier. — The paper in circulation are notes or deposit bills, for which, on pre- senting them at the bank, gold will be given, and these notes are stamped with the value that each bears. The silver ruble is divided into 100 silver kopeks ; its value in English money is about 35. 4(?., and it is always used as the basis of all financial transactions, no higher denomination being used in accounts.
The exchange on England is published in the Petersburgh Gazette, it frequently varies, and is different in different parts of the empire ; the value of the pound sterling may be averaged at from 6 silver rubles to 6 rubles and 30 silver kopeks. It may facilitate a stranger's reckoning if he recollects that a shilling is worth about 30 silver kopeks. Spanish dol-
* Of which there are 331 in a silver ruble.
Bussia. MONEY. 381
Jars are sometimes to be met with at Moscow and Odessa, but they had better be left alone, as a loss will be experienced both in receiving and paying them away. Circular notes are more profitably changed at a merchant's than a banker's, for he will not make any charge for postage, which is very heavy in the South, nor will there be any commission. Previously to the Ukase of 1839, all taxes, customs, and sums due to the State were received in Grovernraent paper only, and this caused a very high premium on notes, as much as 8 per cent, in the south of Russia; but now that the Government receives paper and silver in differently the premium no longer exists ; the silver ruble, now of one uni- form value, then varied in almost every province in the kingdom. The value of the paper ruble represented by these notes was about lO^c/., the new notes re- present the silver ruble ; the common people, however, in remote districts have hardly lost the habit of reckoning by the old paper ruble. In the capital every one is well aware of the alteration, and the isvostchik, who formerly calculated his fare by the 100 copper kopeks which there used to be in a paper ruble, now makes his demand in silver kopeks. The paper ruble was originally of the same value as the silver, but it became depreciated to one-third of its value by the vast quantity of notes issued. It will therefore be seen that silver rubles and silver kopeks constitute the only practical elements of this currency, throughout the whole extent of the Russian empire, with the exception of Poland, where zlots and groschen still preserve their undivided sway ; and as no Russian coined money is allowed to be taken over the frontier, on leaving Russia by way of Warsaw, the traveller will have to undergo the agreeable operation of changing at a loss, all the coinage of the country he may have been imprudent enough to have become possessed of. The zlot in Poland is worth 9d. English, each zlot consists of 30 copper groschen.
The etymology of the word ruMe is from the word ruMt, to hew off, because I "J^-viljl ( in former times silver was current only in bars, from which it was customary for a ) debtor to strike off with a hammer and chisel the amount which he had to ipaj. The half-ruble is called a poltiniJc, and the quarter a tschetvertaJc. The next silver coin to this, worth 8rf. English, is termed a vosiongrivnik, the next a sJiesti- grivnik, and the last, that is the smallest silver coin, a grivnik. The coppec coins, in like manner, have their denominations ; the largest, worth three silver kopeks, is called a grivna, after this comes the ^idiak, the grosh, the Tco]iaiJca, the denushJca, and i}ie j)ohisMca ; the last two, which represent the half and quarter of a copper kopek, are of the value respectively of l-20th and l-40th part of a penny, and they are now rarely to be met with ; their value is so small that they may be almost denominated the European howrie. The Dutch ducat is called a tscher- vonet, and sometimes gollandshi ; the Napoleon is known as a lobandsliik, from lob, the forehead, on account of the high forehead usually given to Napoleon on these coins.
s 3
38S STEAMBOATS. Sect. T.
2. STEAMBOATS.
Steamers leave the St. Katlierine's Docks direct for Copenhagen and St. Petersburgh during the season, but the precise day of sailing is not always fixed *. The Fares are —
First Cabin. Second Cabin. Steward's Fee.
£ s. £ s, s. d.
London to St. Petersburgh . 10 10 ... 7 7 ... 10 6
„ Copenhagen * . 5 5 ... 3 13 ... 5 0
Copenhagen to St. Petersburgh 5 5 ... 3 13 ... 5 0
There is also direct communication by sea, early in each month, with the above ports from Hull. The fares are —
First Cabin. Second Cabicu
£ s. £ s.
From Hull to St. Petersburgh . .10 10 ... 6 6 „ „ Copenhagen . . 4 4 ... 2 10 No one is permitted to embark without a passport, and passengers must apply to the Russian Consul- General in London to authorize the vice-consul at Hull to furnish one. The following form, is required to be filled up by the applicant. Agents iif Hull, Gee and Co.
Memorandum^ Christian and surname ..... Age .,....,... . Profession .....-,... To whom and where going in Russia .
Purport of journey
There are likewise French steamers, which ply between Havre and St. Peters- burgh.
The steamers " Nicolas the First " and " Alexander " leave Liibeck and Travemiinde alternately every Tuesday during the season — that is to say, as long as the Baltic is open — for Cronstadt. Fares —
First Cabin, 60 silver rubles; Second, 38 silver rubles; Third, 24 silver rubles.
Private Cabin, with four berths, 216 silver rubles. „ „ three „ 167 „
„ ■„ two „ 128 „
Children, in the First and Second Cabins, under ten years of age, pay half price. One cwt. of baggage allowed free.
The freight for a four-wheeled carriage is 40 silver rubles. The freight for a two-wheeled carriage 25 „
The steamboat, which leaves Travemiinde on the 31st of October, is indeed destined for Cronstadt, but when the weather is bad, the vessel does not proceed
* For information respecting the steamers for Hamburgh and Russia see the advertise- ments in the Times.
Bussia. STEAMBOATS. 383
further than Eeval. The transport of passengers between Cronstadt and St. Peters- burgh, and vice versa, is effected at the cost of the Company ; but the passengers between Liibeck and Travemunde must find their way to the latter place at their own cost.
These steamers return from Cronstadt to Liibeck every Wednesday. Agents in London, Messrs. Suse and Sibeth, 35, Lime Street, City.
From St. Petersburgh there is a steamer to Reval, Helsingforss, Abo, and Stockholm every Friday, and vice versa. Fare, 30 silver rubles. Average time, four or five days.
Also from St, Petersburgh to Reval, Riga, and Momsund every Wednesday morning at 10 o'clock, between May the 6th and October the 6th, and later if the sea is open. Passengers are taken up and landed at Reval. These boats are of 220 and 160-horse power; and at Riga they meet the steamer from Stettin, from whence there is a railroad to Berlin in four hours. Fares —
FIRST CABIN. SECOND. , DECK.
Silver rubles. Silver rubles. Silver rubles. Petersburgh to Riga .... 15
. 10
. 12
. 10
7
half price.
The establishment of direct steam communication between St. Petersburgh and Stettin is in contemplation.
Steamboats ply between St. Petersburgh, Peterhoff, and Cronstadt four times a day ; and to the Ladoga Lake a steamer runs daily at 9 a.m. in the summer.
In the south of Russia the communication by steam between Odessa and the Danube, as well as to Constantinople and the ports in the Black Sea, is now very complete. Two steamers run every ten days between Odessa and Con- stantinople, the " Odessa" and " Bessarabia" — these vessels, which might almost be termed steam frigates, are manned by Russians, and commanded by Russian naval officers. They are capable of accommodating eighty or a hundred passen- gers ; the cooking and attendance is good, and the fare from port to port is, First Cabin, 30 silver rubles ; Second Cabin, 20 silver rubles. The average rate of passage is 54 hours. Both of these steamers were built in England.
There is also steam communication between Odessa and Gallatz every eight days ; the boats that ply on this station are " Peter the Great," an English boat, and the " Naslednik," built in Russia. The fare from Odessa to Grallatz is 20 silver rubles; these steamers are much smaller than those which make the trajet to Constantinople ; but the accommodation is pretty good, and the run is made from Odessa to Gallatz, including the stoppage at Ismail, in about twenty- four hours ; these are also Government boats, and, like the " Bessarabia " and the " Odessa,'' under the superintendence and control of the Admiral of the
Reval . .
„ Mornsund ,
Riga to Reval ....
Riga or Reval to Momsund
Children, under ten years of age.
|
12 |
5 |
|
7 |
3 |
|
8 |
4 |
|
7 |
3 |
|
5 |
2 |
384 KUSSIAN EAILWAYS AND ENGLISH PASSPORT. Sect. V.
Black Sea fleet. A traveller will reach Vienna from Gallatz in eight or nine days.
A steamer likewise plies between Odessa, Kertch, and Taganrog, on the east coast of the sea of Azoff, touching at Sevastopol and Yalta, in the Crimea, once a week during the summer months; this is a Government boat. A small steamer ran during the last summer between Odessa and Cherson, performing the distance in twelve hours ; but the traffic in passengers and goods was so small that it is not likely to be continued. The steamers to Constantinople and Gallatz continue to run as long as the sea is open.
The Volga is now navigated by steamers from Tver, and a trip to the Caspian by this route would, we think, repay any young Englishman. His note-book, on his return, could not fail to be highly instructive and entertaining. The navigation of this noble river has been often talked of, but many obstacles have intervened to prevent the scheme from being carried out. The enterprising projector, who has at length realized it, is a spirited German merchant of St. Petersburgh.
3. RUSSIAN RAILWAYS.
The Moscow Railway is only open to Colpenny, a distance of thirty versts. The train starts from St. Petersburgh twice a day, viz., at 9 a.m. and 1 p.m. A further opening of the line is not expected till late in the autumn of 1848. The station, a splendid one, is in the Nevskoi Prospekt, not far from the Convent of the Nevskoi. The emjployes live at the station, and are all in uniform, the railway being the property of the State. It is open during the winter months.
The railway to Tzarsko Selo and Paulofsky is also the property of the State. Distance, 25 versts to Tzarsko Selo, and 5 more to Paulofsky.
Trains leave St. Petersburgh for the former village at 1\ and 10 a.m. ; 1, 3}, 6, and 9 p.m. From Tzarsko Selo to Paulofsky at 8^- and 11 a.m.; 2, 4|,7, and 10 p.m. ■
From Paulofsky to Tzarsko Selo 8|, 10 a.m.; 1^, 4, 6J, and 9^ p.m. During the races, which take place in the summer, the trains run more frequently. During the winter months the traffic falls off greatly, and the trains are fewer in number. The hours are, of course, altered. Fares
" St. Petersburgh to Tzarsho Selo.
First Class, 65 silver kopeks; Second Class, 50; Third Class, 40; Fourth Class, 25.
•Si^ Petersburgh to Paulofsky.
First Class, 85 silver kopeks ; Second Class, 65 ; no Third or Fourth Class.
4. ENGLISH passport.
For an Englishman bound to Russia direct, an English passport obtained from the Foreign Office, or from some British Minister abroad, is indispensable; and no traveller can enter the Russian dominions by land or sea unless his
Bussia, EussiAN custoai-house. 385
passport bears the signature of a Russian Minister or Consul; indeed, he will not be permitted to secure a passage on board any vessel bound for a Russian port, without producing this all-important document similarly authenticated, whether at Lubeck, Stockholm, or Constantinople. The Office of the Russian Consul, in London, is No, 2, "Winchester Buildings, City. The Russian Consul, at Hull, is a Mr. Firbank. Whatever the original passport may be, (we had a Dutch one, and reached Constantinople and Odessa with it,) it is absolutely necessary that it should be vise by both the English and Russian diplomatic authorities before entering the Russian dominions.
5. RUSSIAN CUSTOM-HOUSE.
Travellers should be particularly careful not to change foreign coin for Russian paper money before they enter Russia. In order to prevent the introduction of forged notes, not only is the importation of paper money forbidden, but if any is found on the person or baggage, it is liable to confiscation, and the owner to fine and imprisonment. This does not apply to silver money, but the exportation of it is equally illegal. Sealed letters, lottery tickets, playing cards, books sub- ject to the censorship, articles of dress which have not been worn, and poisonous drugs, come within the category of prohibited articles ; so that a medicine chest is liable to seizure; but it will, of course, be returned, on assuring the authorities that the rhubarb is not intended for his Imperial Majesty's liege subjects, but for your own sweet self. Books, and even maps, will also be set aside to be examined by the censor ; these are sometimes made up into a parcel and sealed with lead, and then delivered to the owner, who engages, by signing a paper, to send them to the censor. The penalty for breaking or losing the lead seal is twenty-eight silver rubles, about il. 10s. If a stranger should have any objectionable work with him, for instance, Byron's Don Juan, it will be retained ; but, on applica- tion, returned to the owner on his leaving Russia. The search is, generally speaking, strict; each article of dress is taken from the portmanteau or im- perial, and contemplated with a degree of earnest attention that awakens the most lively anxiety as to its future destination. To ladies this ordeal is pecu- liarly trying, and a fair author thus feelingly and indignantly alludes to these annoyances. " A black-looking being, with face like a bull-dog and paws like a bear, fumbled and crumbled a delicate (jarde-robe without mercy — stirring up large and small, tender and tough, things precious and things vile, ruthlessly together, to the unutterable indignation and anguish of the proprietor. To wit- ness the devastation of an English writing-desk was a curious sight to an unin- terested spectator. First, the lock excited great anger, and was a convincing proof that little was to be done with Bramah by brute force ; and, this passed, there ensued as striking an illustration of the old adage of a bull in a china-shop as could possibly be devised. Every touch was mischief. They soiled the writing-paper and spilt the ink; mixed up wax, wafers, and water-colours. Then, in their search for Russian bank-notes, the introduction of which is strictly
•386 CARTE-DE-SEJOUR AND RUSSIAN PASSPORT. Sect. V.
interdicted, they shook out the blotting-book, whence a shower of letters ot introduction, cards of address, and a variety of miscellaneous documents, floated to distant comers of the salle — ransacked the private drawer, of which they were perfectly aufait — displaced all the steel paraphernalia, and then crammed them into their wrong places, cutting their fingers at the same time — the only action which afforded the spectator any unmixed pleasure ; and now, smarting with the pain, flung down the lid, and left the grumbling owner to gather his scriptural fragments together as he best could. Beyond the writing-desk they did not choose to proceed. It was past the regulation time, and instead of allowing the weary traveller, as is usual in such cases, to take his carpet-bag of necessaries, the smallest article was denied with a stolid pertinacity, which inti- mated no great sympathy on their parts for the comforts of clean linen." We think this description is not greatly overcharged, and that even a protectionist would advocate free trade when passing the Russian douane : indeed, the custom-house usages of most countries are one of " the miseries of human life."
The police regulations are still more formal and tedious, beyond anything known in any other country ; and the traveller, if he prefers doing everything himself to having it done for him by his valet-de-place, will find them most annoying, and will lose not only a great deal of time, but, what is worse, both temper and patience. It is true he will probably be cheated of a few rubles ; but, when travelling, is not this the lesser evil'?
6. CARTE-DE-SEJOUR AND RUSSIAN PASSPORT.
Immediately, that is, the day or the day after his arrival, the traveller's pass- port, with a certificate from the British Consul that he is a British subject, but for which he does not pay if he has a Foreign Office passport, should be taken to the Police Office of the " Quartal District" and registered, when the official will give him a paper which he must sign. This done, he must betake himself with all three documents to the Alien Office, and the carte-de-sejour will then be given him, containing a faithful picture of his size, features, &c. ; the cost of this ticket of residence is 3 silver rubles. Each day's delay in obtaining the carie-dc-sejour subjects the party to a fine of 2 rubles, but with explana- tion it is seldom enforced ; however, as a general rule, it is much better to conform to every regulation as soon as possible. A separate carte-de-sejour is required for each person, even for a man and his wife, who are not considered by the finance minister as one flesh. The Russian nobility receive their cartes-de-sejour gratis, and are not required to have their physiognomies described ; all others are considered as merchants, tradesmen, or servants, and are obliged to have one ; these are available for a year. Having obtained this billet, a person may remain unmolested in St. Petersburgh for three months, and even extend his rambles to Tzarsko Selo, Peterhoff, and other places in the environs. At the expiration of the term for which the carte-de-sejour is made out, the bearer.
EuSSia. CARTE-DE-SEJOUB AND RUSSIAN PASSPORT. 387
if he wishes it renewed, must appear again in person at the police office for the purpose, and the proprietor of the house at which the traveller is residing must immediately deliver the document to the officer of police of his quarter, who will return it on the following day, at ferthest, registered and signed. This formality must be gone through every time the applicant changes his residence ; for omitting to do this, and keeping a carte-de-sejour over the period for which it was given, the offender will incur a fine varying in amount according to the number of days which have elapsed since it was first delivered. The charges for the carte-de-sejour amount to 9 silver rubles and 15 kopeks; naval and military men, clergymen, and members of parliament pay only 2 silver rubles. In order to proceed to Moscow, Archangel, Kief, or any other Eussian city, a new passport is necessary, and another to return ; the fee for each of these is 5 rubles. On presenting the Moscow document at the proper police office at St. Petersburgh, the traveller will receive back the carte-de-sejour which he was obliged to deposit before obtaining his passport for Moscow. Before, however, he can quit Russia, his name must be duly advertised in three successive gazettes, which process cannot be accomplished in less than nine days ; but if he can find a respectable surety for the payment of any debts he may owe to a Russian subject, he will be allowed to depart, and- the advertise- ment will subsequently appear. The names of parties thus leaving the country are generally inserted in the German as well as Russian newspapers, and the traveller will do well to make his lacquey-de-place produce the former for his particular inspection, for it will be a check upon the man, and keep his own mind easy, most desirable at all times, especially when travelling in foreign countries. In addition to this, he must obtain a certificate from the police master of the quarter in which he has been residing, and carry it in person to the head office; from thence the papers are taken by the lacquey-de-place to the military governor's office, who is to be petitioned, and his sanction being secured, the weary applicant must in person visit the Alien Office, the lacquey will then finish the aifair, and put his employer in possession of the all- important paper which is to give him the power of continuing his wanderings. The charge for this is 8 silver rubles, including the English Consul's fee of 1| silver ruble for a certificate of nationality. If the stranger's intended stay in Russia is very limited^ the advertisement in question should be inserted imme- diately, or very shortly after his arrival ; and by the time he has seen Moscow, St. Petersburgh, and everything worthy of notice in its vicinity, there will be no impediment to his departure. The precaution of advertising, adopted to prevent fraud, is in reality of little use, as travellers are allowed to remain three weeks after their names have appeared, in an etymological disguise that no man living could recognise. The fees for official papers and signatures, from the first landing to leaving the country, amount to nearly 20 silver rubles, about Zl. Qs. M. The revenue arising from this system is very great. A correspondent has informed us that a certain valet-de-place, a sharper, according to his
388 TRAVELLING THE PADAROSHNA — POSTING. Sect. V.
account, is in the habit of making gross overcharges when employed in these matters, and that this is tolerated by the principal English hotel keepers ; if this be so, we recommend them to adopt a different line of conduct if they do not wish to injure their own interests.
7. TRAVELLING — THE PADAROSHNA.
In Russia distances are measured by versts.
1 Verst is equal to 3500 English feet, or two-thirds of an English mile. 1 Sajene „ 7 English feet. 1 Archine „ 28 inches.
The archine is the yard of Russia — the Russian foot and inch are the same as the English.
In order to travel post in Russia it is necessary to have a padaroshna or order for horses, in which is inserted the name of the place to which you are going,, the distance in versts, and the number of horses required. The cost of the pa- daroshna depends on the number of versts and horses, at the rate of 2 kopeks copper for each horse. This document is obtained from the governor of the town the traveller is leaving, or at an office specially appointed for this purpose. On making the application it is necessary to produce the Russian passport, and a certi- ficate from the police, stating that the applicant is not going to steal a march upon his creditors, or, in other words, that he has satisfied their claims. The greatest care must be taken of the padaroshna, and it should be kept at hand, for it will be required at each post station as an authority for the post-masters to furnish you with horses ; and if mislaid or lost, the unfortunate owner will be obliged to continue his journey with a peasant's horses, subject to all his caprices as to charge, hour of starting, and distance of each day's journey. If the traveller has sufficient influence to get a special note added to the padaroshna by the postmaster general, or his deputy, it will facilitate his journey.
8. POSTING.
As a general rule, posting is the best mode of travelling in Russia, and when the party consists of three or four persons is the most economical, also the most inde- pendent, and by far the most speedy until railways supersede it — a circumstance most devoutly to be wished for, as nine-tenths of Russian travelling is through a most uninteresting country, and the chaussees, from St. Petersburgh to Moscow, Warsaw and Riga excepted, on the most execrable roads in Europe. The charge for a post royal in and out of St. Petersburgh and Moscow is 3 silver kopeks per horse per verst, but that for the ordinary posting is only 2 silver kopeks per verst, in some provinces a trifle less ; between the two capitals it is higher than in any other part of the empire, being 2^. The cost per mile for 4 horses posting, not including the padaroshna, on the barriers, is 7c?. Eng- lish. Between Moscow and St. Petersburgh the tolls for a private carriage
Russia. POSTING. 389
are about 16s. In leaving the capital, it is as well to hire job horses for a stage or two, as there is sometimes a great deal of trouble in pro- curing post horses. In Russia the horses, four in number, are always driven abreast, and it is therefore necessary to lash a false splinter bar of the requisite length on to the carriage, to which rope traces should be permanently attached, for the postmasters never provide any, and they are adjusted to suit each horse at every station. The yamstchik (the postboy), instead of riding, drives from the box or the foot board ; his beard and habiliments are not the most cleanly, and his love for vodka and gossip is intense ; he knows only two paces, a walk and a gallop, and his course across the steppe is straight over every hillock and into every hole that lies in his way; the whip, a short but heavy punisher, and an inexhaustible supply of oaths are not unfrequently in request. The more humane have recourse to kind words, and address their horses in endearing terms, which are sometimes given in rhj^me. A mare the boy calls " sudaruina," or good woman ; a tired horse he addresses as " starite," or old fellow. Collectively they are called "golubki," or little doves. In the winter a bell is attached to the pole of the carriage, to give notice of its approach, for the sledge glides noiselessly over the snow. A table showing the distance from one post station to another is hung up in every post-house, frequently a mere hut, also the charge for each horse is stated ; a book is likewise kept in which travellers may enter their complaints ; should any difficulties arise, a request to see this book may have some effect upon the dilatory and extortionate post-master. This official is bound to furnish at least the number of horses ordered in the padaroshna; but he may oblige the traveller to take more if the roads require it, and this he does sometimes to the extent of making him journey with 6, and in very bad roads, 9 horses ; he may also, and often does, on the cross roads, tell you there are no horses left but those which he is boimd to keep for the mail or a court courier; a douceur, however, properly admi- nistered to him or the yamstchik, will have a wonderful effect in pro- ducing the requisite number of quadrupeds, the latter is occasionally the pro- prietor of the horses he drives. These bearded Jehus generally receive from 35 to 50 copper kopeks for the stage, according to its length. This varies greatly, viz. from 12 to 28 versts. Russians give less, and when travelling on the public service seldom give any thing. Many of the post- masters in the South of Russia are Polish Jews, and, though not more rapacious than their Christian brethren of the same trade, are quite as bad. In addition to these worthies, there is at each post-house a government officer called an is- pravnik, who is supposed to be a check on the post-master ; he is, however, generally his bosom friend, but the palm of his hand is seldom shut.
In Russia a douceur is almost universally expected by officials, more par- ticularly in those parts of the country which are at a great distance from the seat of government. There is a story current of a Frenchman who held a govern- ment situation, which illustrates the system; he, like many others, had an
390 posTiNa. Sect. V.
office of which the salary was so small that he could not live upon it ; for a time he was proof against douceurs, but the first law of nature afterwards drove him to accept them, and, the rubicon passed, he did the thing handsomely. Having, however, at length overreached the mark, he was brought before the proper tri- bunal, and being asked " Why he took a bribe V he replied, in terms both conclu- sive and original, "I take, thou take&t, he takes; we take, you take, they take." As it will not be the traveller's province to reform abuses, we recom- mend him, if he values his comfort and quiet, to conform to the customs of the country. A military or naval uniform, or, if the traveller be a civilian, an order worn ostentatiously, will have some weight with these subordinates, who will most probably imagine he is in the Russian service, and act promptly on this assumption.
Take especial care never to travel post just before or immediately after a great man; should even a corporal with despatches come up while you are chang- ing horses, he will assuredly take yours if there are no others ; under such cir- cumstances it will be prudent to submit, and that quietly. There are plenty of horses between Moscow and St. Petersburgh ; but in the interior, south of Moscow, travellers are sometimes detained a whole day at a wretched post-house before they can obtain any. The saving in time and temper will be consider- able if an avant courier is employed when travelling in the steppe. The speed, when posting, is sometimes great, the horses going ventre a terre ; but so much time is lost at the post-houses in changing, that, including stop- pages, the traveller will not clear much beyond 8 or 9 miles an hour. It is said the emperor performs the journey between St. Petersburgh and Moscow, a distance of 448 miles, in thirty-one hours, being 14 miles an hour, including stoppages ; the diligence is 73 ; we were 60, posting. In coming from Odessa via Moscow to St. Petersburgh, we journeyed in a low britska, purchased in Long Acre; but we strongly recommend the travel- lers going south of Moscow to buy a strong calash or a hihitha at St. Peters- burgh, for he will procure one cheaper there than at Moscow ; failing in this, he must content himself with the accommodation afforded by a telega, a small open waggon without springs, but strongly constructed, so as to withstand the roads and no roads of the country ; to journey in this vehicle one must be a native, for the jolting is annihilating, and to prove what the concussions must he, the Russian officers put straw at the bottom of it, and not unfrequently a bed upon that ; in these machines they get over the ground at an amazing pace. Gathering up his six or eight reins, for there are two to each horse, and grasping his short severe whip, the yamstcMk leaves the post-house at a furious gallop, and keeping the horses at this pace nearly the whole stage, not unfrequently returns to his station with one less than he set out with. When the emperor's carriage breaks down, which is not an unusual occurrence in his rapid journeys, he is sometimes obliged to proceed in one of these rude conveyances. The kihitka is an improvement on the telega, having a hood and apron, so that
Russia. DILIGENCES — vorruRTEiis. 391
there is more protection from the weather. In summer, the journey from Moscow to Odessa may be performed in ten days and nights, and in less time if the traveller has a courier from the post-office with him, whom, with good introduce tions, he will find no difficulty in obtaining ; the remuneration to this functionary at the end of the journey will be about thirty silver rubles.
In the winter sledging is universal, even as far south as Odessa, and in this season from ten to twelve miles an hour may be accomplished. The price of posting in the Finnish provinces is, perhaps, rather less than in Russia ; in the provinces of Esthonia, Livonia, and Courland a considerable difference exists, the charges in the latter district being much higher than in any other part of Russia. In Poland the charge is 1 zlot {9d. English) per Polish mile of seven versts for each horse, and about half a zlot for the driver : but it is customary to give them 1 zlot per mile. The whole system is much inferior to that esta- blished in Russia, or in the provinces of Livonia and Courland ; even where the roads are as good as any in Europe, as in the neighbourhood of Warsaw, the tra- veller is unable to make much speed, and the constant delays from the horses not being ready are vexatious in the extreme. The proceedings of the police are far stricter in Poland than elsewhere in the Russian dominions, and their searchings are tedious, both at the frontier and the entrance to Warsaw. The officers are, how- ever, civil and courteous as long as the traveller is so, and a custom-house of- ficer cannot have much to say to a person whose baggage is confined to his own personal requisites. As alterations are frequently made in the post-stations, and sometimes in the roads, it will be desirable for the traveller, should he pur- pose visiting the distant provinces of the empire, to purchase the printed routes published on authority for the year, and have the names of the stations read over to him, so that he can write them down in English — this will preserve him firom the idea that he is imposed upon, sometimes as great a vexation as the reality. The post maps are very accurate. The price of the posting is always paid be- fore starting.
9. DILIGENCES — VOITURIERS.
Those who may not have their own carriages will find that the best and fastest conveyance between Moscow and St. Petersburgh is the Malle Foste, which accommodates four inside passengers very comfortably, and three outside. It ia very capacious, and in winter warmly fitted up with a huge wolf-skin wrapper for the feet and legs. To secure a place, one must apply ten days or a fortnight before starting, and if the traveller is fond of a gossip he may as well in- quire whether his companions are able to converse in any language that he is ac- quainted with. When the roads are good the journey is generally performed in 48 hours ; in a thaw, 70 or more. The fare by this mail is 25 silver rubles inside and 15 outside; it starts daily at 1 p. m. There is also a government diligence which leaves daily at 7 p. 3i., but it will be a matter for consideration
392 DILIGENCES VOITUEIEES. Scct. V.
whetlier the traveller would like to subject himself to the fatigue and discomfort of three days and nights' continuous travelling ; to persons who cannot rough it the task is a serious one; the fare inside is 20 silver rubles; there are four places. There are also public diligences to Moscow daily at 4 p.m., but the fares are higher than the post diligences, and the pace is slow in summer. In the winter, when the journey is accomplished in a shorter time, the fares are lower, the distance is then performed in 65 instead of 73 hours. Parties, or families of from eight to twelve persons, may be accommodated with a pri- vate diligence for the journey between the two capitals; the charge is 85 silver rubles, that is to say, in the summer ; in the winter something less, exclusive of a bonne-main of 6 rubles to the conductor ; for strangers who have a car- riage of their own this plan has its advantages, and is a more independent mode of travelling than by the public diligence ; the average speed is about nine miles an hour; the charge will be a matter of arrangement, and depend on the number of persons.
Some of the best Moscow diligences are equal if not superior to any other public conveyance out of England ; some are built Avith a succession of coupes, each capable of containing two or three passengers, with abundant leg room, well stuffed cushions, and capacious pockets; others have two of these coiij)es, and then a rotonde, made to contain four persons. The conchccteur^s seat is in front, he is screened by a hood and apron from the pelting storm, and beside him, totally unprotected except by his sheepskin schooba, sits the yamstchik, with his low- crowned hat and broad band adorned with many buckles, and his thick yellow hair, cut, like that of all the lower orders, in a line from ear to ear ; the number of horses is generally four, harnessed abreast, but to these two leaders are fre- quently added, and on the off horse is perched an urchin, the very fac-simile in miniature of the bearded driver who sits with imperturbable gravity on the box. The account given of the diligences of the " second etablissement," by a traveller who recently visited Russia, is not so encouraging ; he describes the vehicle as having imaginary springs, stony cushions, green baize linings, and inhabited by a thriving colony of bugs, and himself as having arrived at Novgorod with his teeth loose, and his limbs half dislocated. Some diligences are conducted by private proprietors, totally unconnected with the government. The old com- pany's office is situated almost directlj^ in rear of the Izak Church, Avhere the traveller will readily obtain every information. Beside the Malle Poste and dili- gences to Moscow, there is a Malle Poste from St. Petersburgh to Kovno, on the Prussian frontier, on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday — four insides and
two outsides. — Fare, inside, 30 silver rubles Cabriolet, 20 silver rubles.
There is an extra post on "Wednesdays, with accommodation for six inside and two outside passengers, at 33 silver rubles and 22 silver rubles respectively. There is also a diligence from Kovno to WarsaAv, fare, inside, 15, and outside 12 silver rubles. Also a diligence from Kovno to Marienpol daily — fare for each passenger, 1 silver ruble and 55 silver kopeks. From thence the distance
Russia. DROSHKIES AND JOB CAERIAGES. 393
to the Prussian frontier town of Stolepaen is performed by three post stages, and from thence to Koningsherg there is a diligence daily at 5 p.m., and one from Koningsberg to Berlin daily at 9 3 p.m.
From St. Petersburgh to Riga and Tauroggen, on the Russian frontier, there is a Malle Poste on Tuesdays and Fridays, at 7 p.m., for four persons. Fare to Riga, 13 silver rubles ; to Tauroggeu, 30 silver rubles. Heavy post, Mondays and Thursdays, at 6 p.m., for two persons. Fare, 17 silver rubles. There is an extra Malle Poste on this road during the summer months ; it leaves St. Peters- burgh on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 8 p.m. Fare for each passenger, 35 silver rubles; two places. The diligences Avhich traverse the interior of Russia are very few in number, and not well managed. There is a Malle Poste from Moscow to Nijni Novgorod four times a week — fare, 18 silver rubles. There is also a public conveyance between Moscow and Kharkhoflf. In the in- terior the proprietors of the diligences will undertake to furnish a traveller with relays of horses all along the road, and we have heard Russians say it is by no means a bad mode of proceeding, and, for a foreigner, preferable to travelling with a padaroshna ; it is more expensive than posting, but saves the stranger all discussions and squabbles with post-masters, and ispravniks, and the time and temper wasted in them, but in this case the traveller must have his own carriage.
An opportunity not unfrequently occurs of getting from St. Petersburgh to Berlin through the intervention of couriers and Queen's messengers ; their charge for a seat in their sledge is from 251. to 30^. In the south, and towards Kief, there are Jews who follow the occupation of voituriers, but they are great knaves; and it is scarcely necessary to add that the pace must be intolerably slow. Should the tourist travel in the Crimea, it must be on a pony hired from stage to stage of the Tartars. At Odessa there is an omnibus proprietor Avith whom an arrangement can be made to go to Kicolaieff, or any other place in the neigh- bourhood.
10. DROSHKIES AND JOB CARRIAGES.
The hack carriage or cab of St. Petersburgh and other large cities in Russia is the Droshhy, but it is a most comfortless conveyance, consisting merely of a bench upon four wheels, on which the fare sits astride, as on a velo- cipede, and immediately behind the driver, who is not an agreeable person to be in very close contact with ; at any rate to those who are not fond of the odours of garlick — their favourite seasoning. Moreover, the wooden pavement is at the best indifferent, and when out of repair, which is frequently the case, most abominable, and even worse than the stone pavement.
DroshJcies for hire stand in most of the principal streets. There is no fixed price whatever, as to distance or time ; a most extraordinary thing in a country where the police seem to busy themselves about every thing. To do their drivers justice, they do not impose very exorbitantly, — seldom asking more than twice
394 DEOSHKIES AND JOB CAEKIAGES. Sect. V.
as much as they will willingly take if you make a bargain before starting ; and never attempting to demand more when your ride is finished than they have previously agreed for. The usual fare in St. Petersburgh from one quarter to another is about one shilling. As the distances are great, the most inveterate pedes- trian will soon find these bearded Jehus his best friends^ and he will seldom have occasion to sing out davai (here) a second time ; indeed, he need scarcely look at them, and if he only pause for a moment, seeming to muse upon the ex- pediency of hiring one, half a dozen will instantly dart to the spot where he stands, and commence forthwith a Dutch auction. " Where to, sir ? " " The Admiralty." " Two rubles," says one ; " one and a half," cries another ; and so they bid down- wards until perhaps one of them comes as low as half a ruble. This is the man the traveller will probably take, but he should take care the cheapest droshky is not the worst, for if it is he must be prepared for a volley of jokes and bantering from the disappointed applicants. " Ah ! do but look, little father, how stingy you are. To save a few kopeks you put up with that little ragged rascal for your coachman. He and his three-legged animal will stick fast before you get half way." " The grey-bearded vagabond will be sure to upset you, he is so drunk he can't stand." " He '11 take you to the shambles, and swear it is the Ad- miralty." No one enjoys all this abuse, in the meanwhile, more than the ob- ject of it, who laughs in his sleeve, and grumbles out '' Niet shevoss," " Never fear, sir, we shall get on well enough," and tightening his reins, applies his short whip, and you are in a second rattling along to your destination. In the south the droshky has a back to it, and the driver sits on a seat in front, and at a more agreeable distance from his fare — on a good road and with three horses attached to it, which they always are abreast, the pace is grand and the motion very easy ; the wheels are small, and the body, Avhich is hung on C-spriiigs, is very low. This vehicle is driven with one, two, or three horses, in either case one is in the shafts, to which a light piece of wood is attached, forming an arch over his head; the traces draw from the nave of the wheel ; the bridle and other parts of the harness are ornamented with small pieces of brass or silver. If two horses are driven, the second is always placed on the near side, his head drawn a little down and outwards by a rein attached to it for the purpose ; he is trained to canter and show himself off while the other does nearly all the work at a rapid trot ; when there are three horses, the one on the off side is also harnessed with his head downwards, and capers in the same way. A droshky well turned out in this manner is by far the prettiest equipage of the three, and when going at speed, which is the usual pace, the horses have the effect of those in an ancient car. Droshkies ply in all the large towns. At Odessa the usual charge by the hour is from 30 to 40 silver kopeks, according to the number of droshkies there may be on the stand. A caleche, however, is by far the most agreeable vehicle to use in St. Petersburgh, and travellers intending to remain a week or a fortnight there should hire one by the job ; the horses and carriage are much better than ihe fiacres, the coachman less likely to be drimk, and the cost is more reasonable.
Russia. BATHS. 395
The expense of a carriage and horses by the weelc should not be more than thirty- silver rubles, and something to the driver ; the charge will vary a little with the price of forage- Two horses will suffice for the town, but for distant ex- cursions to the palaces in the environs, three or four will, be required, according to the number of the party ; the charge, if taken by the day, will be about 1^. Droshkies are seldom taken beyond the city barriers. A carriage hired for the day or week can be retained for the theatre or evening party, with- out any additional expense — " a day " meaning till the party hiring it returns home at night. In winter the body of the carriage is placed on a sledge, which is then universal. A handsome turn out in the sledge line wiU be about 21. 10s. per week, an ordinary one, 1^. 12s. There are hack sledges in the streets, but hack or private one must sledge, on account, as has been before observed, of the great distances. At Moscow sledges are a trifle cheaper.
11. BATHS.
Many persons who visit Russia conceive it to T)e a kind of duty to take a Rus- sian laath; this determination in some cases will arise from mere curiosity or in order that the bather may be able to amuse or astonish inquisitive friends on his return home — the traveller's two great pleasures. But we think that to many it may prove only a qualified enjoyment, for those who have tried these baths differ widely in opinion as to their being so very agreeable ; and the traveller who has been in Turkey will find that they bear no comparison with those of Stamboul, either in the size and elegance of the build- ings, the decent and civilized character of the attendance, or the ample supply of hot linen, and, finally, the soothing and luxurious chihouJc. The vapour baths in St. Petersburgh, to which the upper classes resort, have, it is true, dressino'- rooms comfortably arranged, but the bath-room itself is rarely more than from ten to twelve feet square. Such travellers, however, who may be disposed to .satisfy themselves by a personal experience of this kind of bathincr and surrendering their bodies to be shampooed, soaped, and whipped with leafy- birch twigs by a bearded and naked attendant, need only mention their wish at the hotel a few hours previously, in order that due notice may be given at the baths — the charge is one silver ruble. The baths for the lower orders, which are in the suburbs, are very numerous, and the hap- piest account of them is that given by Kohl, the most accurate and the best descriptive writer upon Russian life. He writes : " On Saturday evening an unusual movement may be seen among the lower classes in St. Petersburgh ; companies of poor soldiers who have got a temporary furlough, troops of mecha- nics and labourers, whole families of men, women, and children are seen eagerly traversing the streets -with towels under their arms, and birch twigs in their hands * * * * they are going to the public baths, to forget, in the enjoy- ment of its vapours, the sufferings of the past week, to make supple the limbs
396 BATHS. Sect. V.
stiffened with past toil, and invigorate tliem for that which is to come. Before the door, the words ' entrance to the baths/ in large letters, attract the eye, and invite the body to enter. Within the doorway, so narrow that only one at a time can work his way in, sits the money-taker, who exchanges the ticket for the bath for a few kopeks, (twopence,) and has generally a whole sackfull of large copper coins by his side. Near him are a couple of women selling ' schnaps and kalatshi,' while the people are thronging in and out as at a theatre. "We first entered an open space, in which a number of men were sitting in a state of nudity on benches, all dripping with water and perspiration, and as red as lobsters, breathing deep, sighing, puffing, and gossiping, and busily employed in drying themselves and dressing. These had already bathed, and now, in a glow of pleasurable excitement, were puffing and blowing like Tritons in the sea. Even in the winter I have seen these people drying and dressing in the open air, or, at most, in a sort of booth forming an outhouse to the baths. Round it are the doors leading to the bathing rooms, large wooden apartments, in which a heat of 40° to 50° of Reaumur is maintained. A thick cloud of vapour conceals at first what is going on within ; for nothing is at first visible but the feeble glimmer of the lamps breaking through a thick atmosphere, and the flame of the heated ovens. To remain here clothed is evidently impossible, neither would it be advisable for a well dressed person to risk an appearance here as a mere spectator. I entered, therefore, in the costume of nature, in which we are as much alike as one egg is like another. In any other costume the naked people would infallibly have ejected me speedily. Under this disguise I pursued my observations un- molested, the bath being by no means my object."
There are three platforms, one above another, in these baths, and in the form of an amphitheatre, similar to those in the concamerata sudaiio of the Roman baths, as shown in the paintings found in the baths of Titus. These steps are of different degrees of heat, and on them the bathers lie generally on their backs or stomachs, while the attendants are employed in scourging them with birchen rods steeped in cold water ; and here and there may be seen a papa holding his little boy between his knees, diligently occupied in improving the circulation of his rear ; others stand near the glowing stoves, as if to increase the perspiration, which already runs at every pore; and others, again, descending from the upper platforms, have iced water poured over them by pailfuls. The stranger will find the lower step of his bath-room quite enough, and we advise him not to proceed to the second until he has been some time on the first.
In the provinces the baths are very indifferently, not to say badly, conducted — there is no hot linen, and the temperature of them is very irregularly kept up by throwing cold water on large stones heated in an oven ; at St. Petersburgh they make use of cannon shot. Excessive use of the Russian bath injures the complexions of the Russian women, and it is said some ladies become so habituated to the leafy branches of the birch that, by way of exciting a skin thickened by years of flagellation, they make their attendants flog them with bunches of nettles. It is
Bussia. STOVES. 397
highly necessary to take some warm clothing to wrap yourself up in after taking a real Russian bath.
12. STOVES.
The Russian stove is the most complete device for heating a house that was ever imagined. It is built in a partition wall, either of brick or stone, and, therefore, heats two rooms. These stoves are frequently faced with the glazed Dutch tile, which increases their power, as to heat, as well as improves their appearance. On one side there is an iron door, inside which is placed a large quantity of hewn wood, and after this has been thoroughly burnt through, the man, whose business it is to look after all the stoves in the house, rakes the ashes well over to ascer- tain that every particle of wood is literally calcined, and then shuts the yushka, a plate of iron which closes the chimney, and thereby prevents the heat of the embers from escaping; — thus the mass of brickwork is kept hot for many hours. The utmost care is required to ascertain with accuracy that not the smallest piece of wood is left hurning when the yushka is put on ; for should that be the case a poisonous gas is emitted by the wood, and fatal consequences may ensue to those who are exposed to its influence. It is by no means an uncommon circumstance to hear of people being suffocated by the fumes of their stoves.
The temperature maintained by these stoves over the whole of a Russian house is remarkably constant and even, so much so that, in spite of the great external cold, there is a perpetual summer in-doors. No additional blankets are necessary, and no shivering and shaking is to be dreaded on turning out in the morning, as in dear old England, when the north wind drives through every sash in the house. "We are acquainted with a lady whose feet and fingers never escaped chilblains until she passed a winter in Russia.
The double windows, which are universal in this season in the houses of the rich, and common in those of the poor also, contribute, in a great degree, to keep them warm. Early in the autumn every crack and cranny is closed, either with putty or paper, save and except a single pane in each room, con- structed so as to open like a door ; this is called a JorteshJca. The interstice between the inner and outer windows is covered to the depth of a few inches with sand or salt, to imbibe the moisture. In the Imperial palaces there are English grates, but these would be poor substitutes indeed for the peetch in such a climate ; still they are very agreeable accessories to comfort. In the large riding schools and public buildings the stoves are of gigantic proportions, and highly ornamented with trophies and warlike decorations. The heat emitted by these peetches is tremendous, and the sudden change from the intense frost without to the close atmosphere of a room thus incessantly heated, and never ventilated for months, must be enough to try the hardiest frame. In the cottages the whole family sleep on or round the stove, in their clothes,
T
398 HOTELS AND BOAEDING-HOUSES. Sect. V.
and without any bedding ; this is also the case with the servants in some gentlemen's houses.
13. HOTELS, BOARDING-HOUSES, AND LODGINGS.
" Tired and worn out with the detentions and vexations of the custom-house, we took," says the charming writer of the Letters from the Baltic, " the route to the English boarding house of Mrs. Wilson, in the Rue des Galeres (Gralernoi Oulitza), on the English quay, where rest and refreshment were promptly given, and never more gratefully received.
" It must not be imagined that because established in an English boarding house, I am met by familiar habits, or surrounded with familiar objects. We are apt to forget how far we are dependent on English-bred servants and English- built houses, for the quiet course of comfort which, in our native land, seems as natural as the air we breathe. Otherwise I can join in the highest possible commendation of this well-conducted and respectable establishment, which I should doubtless praise more unqualifiedly had I tried any other here. By foreigners who have tasted the sweets of English comfort at the fountain head, it is preferred to every other house of accommodation in St. Petersburgh ; and Count Matuschewitz has no other abode when here." This eulogium, coming from one who so well understood the comforts and refinements of life, is a suffi- cient recommendation ; indeed, this opinion of our countrywoman's hostel is cordially subscribed to by every Englishman visiting St. Petersburgh : her terms are moderate, being 2 j silver rubles a day for bed and board, wine not included, and everything is conducted in the most liberal manner. Breakfast is going on from about eight o'clock till ten, and the dinner hour is half-past five, a very convenient time, as it gives a long morning for sight-seeing, and also the oppor- tunity of attending the theatres in the evening.
There is another English boarding-house in the Galernoi Oulitza, that of Mrs. Hall; and in the same locality is one kept by Mrs. Bowyer (late Mrs. Diamond), which is frequented by masters of vessels and English mechanics. There is also an excellent one on the English quay, at No. 6, conducted by the Misses Benson ; the situation, apartments, comfort, and cleanliness are first-rate ; the charge for board and lodging is 3 silver rubles per day — a private room is charged extra. This house is rather more expensive than Mrs. Wilson's. The best hotels, but bad is the best of those in St. Petersburgh, are the Napoleon, Coulon's, Demuth's, and the Hotel de Paris.
The so-called Russian hotels are numerous enough ; and their names, written in large letters in German, French, and Russian, are conspicuous in all parts of the city; and if the stranger desires to obtain a lasting impression of how dirty and disagreeable an inn can be, and with what a combination of villanous smells it can regale his nostrils, enter almost which you will, and fear not to meet with any disappointment, for they are nearly all alike. ^The staircase, which is used indiscriminately by all the inmates, is rarely cleaned, and
Bussla. HOTELS AND BOARDING-HOUSES. 399
presents a spectacle to which words can hardly do justice. When we arrived at St. Petersburgh, Mrs. Wilson's hotel being unfortunately full, it Avas our fate to be jolted into that of Coulon, in the Michaelofsky Square, where we soon found that bad was the best of St. Petersburgh caravanseries — worse than those of Asia, for there the traveller expects no accommodation but the water from the fountain in the court, and the shelter of its four walls; in this capital he naturally assumes that he will meet with every convenience and comfort, but finds none. The exterior of Coulon's hotel is magnificent, but, like most of the post-houses in the interior of Russia, it swarmed with bugs. Amongst the few memoranda sent to the Editor of this Hand Book, by Russian travellers, was the following laconic and pithy remark : — " A beautiful hotel is Coulon's, well furnished, but dear ; killed seventeen bugs the first night ! " A writer in Russia says, in 1838, that Coulon's hotel was entirely refitted in the preceding year, and adds, prophetically, that its cleanliness was evidently destined to be of short duration. There was in this, as in the generality of Russian hotels, a restaurant, or traTctir, who served the inmates by the carte, or par ttte ; there was also a table d'hote, and a waiter who spoke French ; but the charges were high, and the cidsine bad. It will be necessary to have a clear understanding as to the price of the rooms, always the surest way to avoid disputes when travelling. The charge for two bed rooms and a sitting room at Coulon's is Al. per week ; the position is central and good. The Hotel de la Bourse, in the Little Million, was at one time clean and comfortable, and the situation is also good. There is an English club in the Nevskoi Prospekt, to which the traveller may generally procure admission through his banker. The Commercial Club is on the English quay. Good lodgings are dear ; the best are at the north end of the Nevskoi Prospekt and in that neighbourhood.
At Moscow there are the English boarding-houses of Mrs. Howard, Mrs. Pigeon, and Mr. Metcalf ; the former, called by the Russians, Go ward, which is in the Bolshoi Dmietriefka, is well conducted. Some travellers, however, state that the charges are very high, and more especially for apartments, if the lodger does not dine at the table d'hote. The charge for two bed-rooms and a sitting room demanded of an English family in 1840 was 6L per week; the quantity, if not the quality, of the fare has also been described as meagre. The charge for board and lodging for one person is S.j silver rubles per diem. Of the hotels in Moscow the most fashionable is the Hotel de Dresde, in which the best rooms are free from vermin; and here a bachelor may find •a couple of small apartments on the best floor, and looking to the square, for 2 silver rubles a day; breakfast half a silver ruble, and dinner, without wine, 1 silver ruble. The landlord, Mr. Schor, speaks French; and during the greater part of the day there is a German waiter who will answer the summons of a hand bell; the other servants, as usual, wear pink shirts outside their trowsers, and speak Russian. There is another hotel, kept by a French- man, on the Smith Bridge, which is not so clean as the Dresden ; the rooms
T 2
400 HOTELS AND BOARDING-HOUSES. Sect. V.
are about the same price, and dinner is served in the salle a manger from two o'clock till five, by the carte, or per head, for 1 or 1^ silver ruble; neithe? charge includes wine. The head waiter and an occasional assistant speak French, and would answer to a hand bell ; there is no table d'hote at either of these hotels. Allusion is here made to a " hand bell," because every one must use it, as it is the only resource for those who have not their own servant. There is likewise in Moscow an hotel thoroughly Russian, kept by Shuval- dischoff. No. 442, in the Tverskaia, where there are good dining, billiard, and smoking rooms, and nothing but Russian spoken; a dinner of five dishes may be had for three-quarters of a silver ruble. The situation is good, the apart- ments handsome, and possibly clean, but this is problematical. There are no good tables d'hote in Moscow. The best confiseur here is Luquet. There are also very good confectionary and ices at Pedotti's, near the Hotel de r Europe.
In concluding our remarks upon Russian hotels, we cannot do better than give the following sketch of those at Odessa, which will apply, with occasional modification, to those of all the large towns in Russia. The writer was travelling with his family. *' Rooms had been taken for us," he remarks, " at the Hotel de la Nouvelle Russie ; the drawing room was pretty good, and fairly furnished in the French style, but when shown to our beds we found they had no sheets on them, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we obtained one for each bed ; the fille-de-chamhre, a man, insisting that one was a pair; but this discomfort was of little consequence compared with the greater one ; on retiring to repose we found that the enemy had already taken posses- sion. Sheets and blankets we rarely met with in Russian inns; and, when furnished, are charged separate from the rooms. The bed rooms of this suite were about seven feet across, and devoid of all appliances to cleanliness and comfort, and the attendance, as well as the cooking, was infamous. I sallied forth, therefore, the next morning to forage for myself, and found better accommodation, more cleanly and reasonable, at the Hotel de St. Petersbourg, on the Boulevard facing the sea. Our great difficulty here was to make the landlord, a Greek, clear our beds from intruders on our rest, and this he angrily and contemptuously termed 'capricci Inglesi.' Here, too, as at the Nouvelle Russie, we found there was no regular attendance, every one being expected to bring his own servants and linen. Though imposing on the outside, many of these hotels are wretched and dirty within ; they are, in fact, merely large lodging houses, divided into sets of apartments, to many of which a small kitchen is attached ; not an atom of carpet or matting is to be seen, and the scanty furniture is of a very inferior description. We did not become in any degree comfortable until we had purchased linen, and hired a German servant who spoke Russian. The corridor, which ran at the back of the apartments on each floor, and from which they were entered, was generally crowded with dirty unshaved domestics, in their shirts or sheepskins according to the season,
Russia. HOTELS AND BOARDING-HOUSES. 401
occasionally employed in lighting that useful article, a somovar, but more often seated on the ground playing with cards as dirty as themselves : as they usually slept on the floor of the ante-room, with the door closed, the odours iu the morning were not very agreeable." It will be seen by the foregoing that Russian hotels, even in the two capitals, are on a very different system from those of other countries, and are suited rather to the requirements and habits of the inhabitants than to those of foreigners. The hotels, or, more properly speaking, the taverns and inns, in the small towns, are very inferior to those in the large ; in some of the former there is indeed no inn, and then the post- house is the only refuge. Odessa has, since the preceding sketch was written, improved on the score of its hotels; the best is the Hotel de Londres, on the Boulevard, kept by an Italian of the name of Carruta ; the accommodation is ex- cellent. The next to this is the Hotel de Paris, in the Italian Street, but the posi- tion cannot be compared with that of the Boulevard. The Hotel de Richelieu, in the street of the same name, is indifferently good. There are no tables d'hote at any of these hotels ; the inmates dine by the carte, or per agreement par tete. Signor Carruta has also a very good restaurant in the Palais Royal, on the Place du Theatre, which will prove an agreeable change from the hotel. In this locality will be found two confectioners and cafes, in fact, almost everything, whether for use or for eating. The establishment of the Messrs. Stiffel, brothers, is well worthy of being visited ; the traveller will there have the pleasure of hearing his own language spoken, and of being surrounded by the evidences of English industry and skill, so that he may almost fancy himself in a show shop of London or Birmingham ; Odessa being a free port our goods meet with a ready sale there. There is a club called the " English," in this town, situated on the right of the Theatre, which is in every respect well appointed. The Commercial Casino, near the Bourse, will also be found very useful to a stranger ; introduced by a member, he can frequent it during the whole period of his stay. At the English Club his name must be written down in a book every day by the person who introduces him. The principal mer- chants and banlters belong to both these clubs. The newspapers will be found here; to an Englishman a necessity at all times, but more especially when expatriated to continental countries where the public journals are on a sheet not much larger than a child's pocket handkerchief. The only English newspaper permitted to circulate in Russia is the Morning Post, all others are prohibited ; or, if admitted under exceptional circumstances, are subjected to be curtailed of their fair proportions. The Journal des Debats used to be admitted with this occasional topping and tailing. The Journal de Petersbourg , the official paper, is printed in French ; there are also two or three Grennan newspapers. The nobility, at any rate some of the great Russian families, are permitted to introduce any English book or paper they please. We remember, and with gratitude, having the pleasure to read the Times, Eerald, and all the English periodicals, when residing at Odessa, kindly lent to us by a Russian nobleman. At Odessa the traveller will find newspapers printed both in French and Italian.
402 EESTAUEANTS AND CAFES. Sect. Y-
14. KESTAURANTS^ CAFES, AND TEA-HOUSES.
There are a few good restaurants at St. Petersburgh, but tbe gourmet must not expect to find an establishment like the Trois Freres, or the Rocher da Cancale. The best is that of Le Grrand. The table d'hote of Dumee is also well organized ; and in order that the stranger may not imagine he is imposed upon, it is well to add that both of these houses are very expensive. The Grerman tables d'hote, of which there are several, are less costly, and the company, generally speaking, is more agreeable. The fare at the second-rate restaurants, particularly the native ones, is very indifferent, and Russian cookery may generally speaking be described as execrable. This remark does not, however, apply to the houses of the wealthy, for there the stranger will find as redierche a repast as at the table of any English nobleman. One of the best dinners we ever had the good fortune to sit down to in any part of the world was at Moscow ; the dessert was magnificent, and included every kind of fruit from the hothouse.
To the Russian nobility of the higher class, whose large fortunes enable them to gratify every wish, no price is too great to be paid for some of the more rare and highly valued luxuries of the table. The sterlet of the Volga is not unfre- quently purchased at nearly its actual weight in gold, and the mutton of Astra- kan, particularly during the summer months, is sold at a most exorbitant price. When winter has once set in, and the cold prevents provisions from spoiling, while the snow facilitates their transport, prices become more reasonable. The meat, veal excepted, is not generally good, nor is butter, unless in the capitals ; in the steppes and small towns it is not to be procured. The supply of fish is ample. At St. Petersburgh large barges, divided into numerous com- partments, through the grated sides of which the Neva flows, are filled with the scaly denizens of the Ladoga, while heaps of dried fish are displayed on deck to tempt the passing Mujik. The proprietor of this preserve walks to and fro with a huge ladle in his hand, ready to pounce on any victim whose more bulky appearance may attract a customer. The completion of the canal to unite the Moskva with the Volga, which latter stream contains a greater number of fish than any other in Ru-ssia, will materially increase the attractions of the Moscow fish market. A bird called the double snipe, about the size of a woodcock, from which it would be extremely difficult to distinguish it, were it not from its long bill, is considered a great delicacy. Capercailzie, bustard, and every kind of game is plentiful ; and the former, when eaten before they have acquired the strong taste of the spruce fir, are delicious. The national drink, called quass, as well as the national soups, hatvinia and shtshie (cabbage soup), we earnestly recommend the traveller to avoid : the former is made of a pound of salt, two pounds of barley meal, and a pound and a half of honey, mixed together, and after having been heated in an oven is strained and left to cool ; though not often met with at the tables of the rich in St. Petersburgh it is highly esteemed by all classes, and a Russian of the lower class can no more live, without his quass than
Russia. RESTAUEANTS AND CAFES. 403
fish without water; moreover, it forms the foundation of his soups and sauces, for these are rarely made with unadulterated water. The stranger will under- stand, therefore, how necessary the foregoing caution is when he learns that batvinia, the summer soup, is not only composed of raw herbs, berries, chopped cucumbers, black bread, lumps of ice, and cold fish, but that the whole of these ingredients swim in cold quass. We remember when that Mega- therium of critics, the Quarterly Review, did us the honour to notice our puny literary efforts, we were taunted for expressing our disapprobation of this com- pound, on the ground that some persons do not like olives, and others prefer stale and tainted oysters; but even at this distance of time we cannot see in this dish any evidence of a correct taste — if taste, like beauty, be an abstract thing. Women in Lapland console themselves after their accouchement with a glass of train oil — a glass of sherry is, we think, in better taste. Go where you will, particularly in Moscow, the quass sellers, with large Dutch-looking bottles, are sure to be met with. Mead is also a favourite beverage, and one kind, which sparkles and creams, is an agreeable drink to those who are fond of sweets. The shiteen also, a kind of mead, which is sold about the streets, is by no means un. pleasant. Vodka, or corn brandy, is drunk in very large quantities by the lower orders. In the houses of the nobility small glasses of the national brandy are handed round, with caviare, smoked salmon and herring, before dinner, with the view of provoking an appetite. Jn fact, to drink seems a greater necessity to a Russian than to eat, and though he is passionately fond of vodka, he appears to be well pleased with very weak fluids ; thus his love for quass and tea seems to be as great as for brandy : it is perfectly wonderful the quantity a Russian will drink of the Chinese herb. Tea-houses are common in all Russian cities : in Moscow there are several very large ones : the one most frequented is near the Kremlin Gardens; and to these houses merchants and tradesmen adjourn to adjust their affairs, cementing their bargains with draughts innumerable of tchai. Tea is drunk out of tumblers, and six or eight of these is a usual allowance for one person ; it is highly scented, and more like Howqua's mixture than any tea sold in England : a slice of lemon is usually put in the glass. No traveller should ever think of calling for coffee in Russia, particularly in the interior, for it is both bad and dear.
The favourite wine is Champagne, of which there is a very large quantity im. ported, but the price, eight to nine shillings a bottle, is rather high for persons of moderate income; nevertheless, no Russian, whether noble or merchant, ever gives a fete without putting this wine before his guests. The very high price has, however, induced the Russians to seek a substitute in the grape growing on the banks of the Don. Great quantities of this wine are manufactured at Moscow, and, being properly leaded and corked in the French style, it passes muster, but the wine itself is very inferior. The Russians have also cultivated the grape in other parts of the empire, and some of the wine grown on the coast of the Crimea, where the vines are under the superintendence of Germans and
404 MEDICAL MEN. Sect. V.
Frenchmen, is very fair. The eating grapes there are the finest imaginable, and those grown in the Botanical Garden at Nikita are sent post to St. Petersburgh for the Emperor's table, a distance of upwards of a thousand miles. Malt liquors are also made in St. Petersburgh, but they are not to be compared with those of England, and the porter is abominable. As to the water, it has been the fashion with travellers in Kussia to rave about the superior excellence of that of the Neva ; some have even gone so far as to declare that a single draught of this "limpid nectar" was worth a journey to St. Petersburgh ; like most high-flown praises this has but little foundation in the reality. We tasted the Neva water frequently, both at our boarding-house and in the middle of the stream, and were certainly unable to discern any peculiar flavour, except a somewhat disagree- able softness of taste, like rain- water. Its medicinal properties render its use in any large quantity by no means advisable ; and travellers are especially cau- tioned to beware of it as it produces a kind of dysentery — not a pleasant malady at any time, especially on a journey ; even the malt liquors have the same effect upon some persons as the water. English bottled porter is very dear, the duty alone being about 12s, a dozen — more than cent, per cent. Sherry, or good French brandy mixed with water, is the best corrective. Some persons affirm that the unpleasant effect of the Neva water is only of temporary duration, and that when once habituated to it most people grow fond of it. The Russians dote on it ; and Kohl states that hg once saw a young man welcomed home by his femily presenting him with a goblet of Neva water. The Emperor Alex- ander always had a supply bottled for his own drinking during his absence from the capital. As, however, the traveller's stay will in all probability be short, we again strongly advise him either to drink vulgar " heavy wet," or brandy and water, which may, perhaps, save him from a doctor's bill; and it will evidently be preferable to drink the best Champagne than pay for physic, and, what is worse, take it. The gayest cafe is the one in the Nevskoi Prospekt, called the Chi- nois, kept by a Frenchman of the name of Beranger ; it stands on the east side of the street, at a short distance from the Admiralty Square, and is much frequented by the upper class of Russians ; the coffee may vie with that of Paris, and the confitures, ices, and confectionary are excellent. The English bazaar in the same street is a good lounge, as are also the fruit shops.
15. MEDICAL MEN.
Should the traveller not feel disposed to take our advice with regard to the water of the Neva, or be a disciple of the Rev. Father Mathew, he will not fail to require medical assistance while in the capital, and will then be glad to find that * good English physicians are to be met with. Sir James Wylie, a great friend of the late Emperor Alexander, and chief of the Army Medical Staff, used to practise here, but he has retired in favour of a nephew, having gained both wealth and laurels in the course of a long, bright, and arduous career ; this worthy knight amputated Moreau's legs at Dresden, and has superintended the
Russia. EOADs and roadside accommodation. 405
amputations of perhaps as many arms and legs as any member of his profession in Europe.
At Moscow the traveller will find a very clever and gentlemanly man in Dr. Lahne, who speaks English fluently.
At Odessa the professors of the healing art are of all nations and languages, including Pereotes and Jews ; and the traveller had better use a little circum- spection in the choice he makes. Dr. Hennau, a Belgian, has the best prac- tice. The most frequented apothecary's shop in St. Petersburgh is that called the English, opposite the Cafe Chinois ; but no medicines are sold without a written order from a physician.
16. EOADS AND KOADSIDE ACCOMMODATION.
A few words on Russian roads and roadside accommodation will not be out of place. We have had occasion to remark upon the excellent roads there are between the two capitals and the cities of Riga, Warsaw, and St. Petersburgh, but these are exceptions to the rule. The whole distance from Odessa to Moscow is a mere track, marked by verst-posts, about ten feet high, and by them the traveller as guided across the open steppe ; but these posts do not determine the width oi the track, each carriage picks its own way, either a hundred yards or half a mile to the right or left, as the horses or driver may think fit. This track cannot be called a road in the same sense that it would be in England, or on the Continent generally ; it is merely traced over the natural soil, and there is not a shovelful of material laid down, nor is there any fencing or draining. In the winter the verst-posts are the compass of the steppe, and without them it would be impos- sible to travel after heavy falls of snow; late in the season the track is so uneven that persons are often thrown out of their sledges by the violent jolts. In wet weather it is almost impassable, and, after the thaw has set in, quite so for a few weeks. Traffic is then almost suspended, and the transport of the mails becomes at this period a service of some danger, as the wooden bridges which have been taken up during the winter are not replaced till the weather is settled, and the Yagers are sometimes obliged to pass the rivers on rafts. In the latter part of the spring the ground is suddenly hardened in all its inequalities of ruts, holes, and hillocks, by the slight frosts which follow the thaw, and in the summer re- tains much of the inequality it then assumed, particularly through forests, where the track is narrow, and consequently more cuf up. In the continuous heat of summer, which withers all the grass on the steppe, some inches deep of the surface is beaten into dust, and in windy weather a veil over the face is almost indispensable — the dust on a hot Derby day will give but a faint idea of it. In some districts trees are planted by the side of the track, but they are not much more picturesque, and certainly in this season not more verdant, than the verst-posts.
The road to Archangel is, in many parts, boarded with planks, laid flat across it ; when quite new it is well enough, but wood, as a material for road making,
T 3
406 KOADS AND ROADSIDE ACCOMMODATION. Sect. V.
is not exactly suitable ; there are still some corduroy roads in tlie environs of St. Petersburgli, and we strongly advise every English visitor to take a drive on one of them in a droshky — we will engage to say that he will not take a second unless there should be a first love, or a hospitable British merchant's datsha, at the end of it. These roads are constructed of small trees and logs laid trans- versely, and bad as they are they have their value, for without them it would be impossible to get across some parts of the country.
On the road between the two capitals there are no regularly appointed places for breakfasting, dining, &c., and the consequence of this is, that pas- sengers travelling in the diligence exercise their own discretion by taking their meals at the station which best suits thtir fancy, and thus the operation of chang- ing horses frequently consumes half an hour, and sometimes more. To these nu- merous stoppages for refreshment the conductor makes little objection, as he is alive to the probabilities of a handsome tip at the end of the journey, and he looks to the yamstchik to make up the lost time.
The price of everything on this road is fixed by a tariff, a dinner is charged in proportion to the number of dishes of which it consists ; if you simply order " Obett," dinner, your usual fare is soup, then beefsteaks with potatoes, cotelettes as they call them, which, though by no means bad, have a most questionable shape. To these succeed some birds (pteetsue) ; and fifthly and lastly, comes something sweet, usually good, though by no means prepossessing in its outward features. In places situated near any large river or lake, as at Novgorod or Tver, fish is always substituted for one or other of the dishes composing the above bill of fare. The usual charge for this meal of 5 dishes is about 1 ruble.
There is not, as we have before remarked, any fixed time or place for the traveller to take his meals, and no specified hour for arriving at or quitting any particular town. Some travellers, and we may add most Russians and all sen- sible persons, take care to order what is either ready or quickly procured, and seldom keep the courier waiting — others, not sufficiently versed in the cuisine, order dinners of so many dishes, and the consequence almost invariably is that the stranger subjects himself to imposition by naming some dish not mentioned in the carte. In addition to this, the chances are that the horses are put to about the time your eatables make their appearance ; the courier inserts his swarthy visage at the door, and after saying Gotovo {ready), vanishes, only to reappear again with his watch'in his hand, repeating the magic word Gotovo; a glass of wine, or something stronger, offered to the conductor may have its effect, and if, as these men generally are, he is a good-natured fellow, the hungry traveller will be allowed to finish his dinner.
The post stations on this road are rather handsome buildings, and contain some smart French polished furniture, looking glasses, and, in the passage, a marble wash-hand stand for all comers, but no mattress, sheets, or towel, not even a common quilt of the country. Portraits of the Emperor and Empress grace the walls ; also in the comer of the principal room is a picture of the Virgin,
Russia. EOADs and eoadside accommodation. 407
and this is to be seen in every private house. The post-houses in other parts of the empire are, many of them, mere huts, commonly constructed of mud or pine logs ; in the latter case they swarm with cockroaches ; there is no accom- modation beyond a table, chairs, and a rough cane-bottomed or wooden sofa, and the traveller has no right to expect more than to walk into the room next to that in which the padaroshnas are entered, throw himself upon it in his cloak, and there take his rest, " if rest it be which thus convulses slumber," for upon it he is not likely to sleep alone. The fair pilgrim on the shores of the Baltic de- scribes these post stations on the Riga road as " fine buildings outwardly, but otherwise whitened sepulchres ;" this charge will not hold good against those in the steppe, for there is no whitewash, and, therefore, no deception; they are what they appear to be, mud or wooden structures of the humblest kind. The following extract from the same author gives one a very cheerless idea of what may be ex- pected even on the more frequented and macadamized road to the above men- tioned city. "About three o'clock I alighted at a station-house of no very promising exterior. . Anton (the servant) peeped into a room on the right and shook his head ; into one on the left and repeated the gesture ; each was filled with smoke from a party of noisy carousers. The host coming forward, I asked (for here German was a passport) for an ' ordentliches zimmer,' a decent room, in which T could dine. When looking round at his filthy floors, rickety chairs, and smoking guests, he answered, with a shrug, ' Was kiinnen sie mehr verlangen ? ' What can you wish for more.' I very nearly laughed in his face." On the cross-roads and in the steppe, eggs and milk are generally to be obtained, but no butter, nor anything else but the black rye bread ; the latter very good fare for a Russian or a Spartan, but if the traveller is neither the one nor the other he will find his gas- tronomic tastes severely tried. An Englishman leaving Odessa thus describes the mode he pursued to obviate these difficulties : " The rumble," he says, " instead of being packed with books, maps, &c., was cleared to make room for the batterie- de-cuisine, in the shape of a brass casserole, the lid doing duty for a frying-pan ; tin teacups fitted into the tea-pot, and the plates, also of the same metal, into one another ; there were also knives, forks, spoons, a spirit-lamp, candle- sticks and snuffers, and two or three pair of wax candles. The eatables came next, consisting of hunting beef, white bread, and biscuits, tea, sugar, and portable soup ; the cellar, a narrow box containing six bottles of sherry and one of brandy, was duly under lock and key, and placed in front of the carriage seat, and as there was no chance of meeting with a bed, and there was no room to stow one away in a britzka, we took a canvas bag, to be filled with hay or straw when we came to a halt. Sheets and towels packed under the cushions com- pleted what might fairly be termed heavy marching order." Russian families almost invariably sleep in their travelling carriages, which are very ponderous and roomy vehicles. Those who can afford it are accompanied by a kibitka, or telega, in which is placed their bedding and other comforts. A somovar — the Russian tea-urn, in which water is boiled in five or ten minutes with a few bits of
408 LACQUEY-DE-PLACE AND SERVANTS. Sect. V.
charcoal — is found at every post station; the charge for lighting it is ahout 2rf. to a Russian, but the postmaster will ask a foreigner 1 or 2 rubles, and take what he can get.
17. LAOQUEY-DE-PLACE AND SERVANTS.
Having bid adieu to the steam-boat at St. Petersburgh, and reached the hotel, the traveller's first thought should be to secure a lacquey-de-place ; for the chances are that each of his fellow passengers will be equally on the alert, and as there are very few good ciceroni it will be desirable to have the first choice *. The valet-de-place in this capital, as well as in those of Europe generally, is of dubious moral character, and has a very happy knack of taking the change out of his employer j^ro tern. ; he seems to know nothing of the currency below half a ruble. He is, however, indispensable, for no language but the Russian is of much use even in St. Petersburgh, excepting in society. The best lacquey is to be heard of at Mrs. "Wilson's boarding-house. Their usual charge per diem is 1| silver ruble, they finding themselves in everything. It will be his business to obtain tickets of admission to the Palaces and all other sights, where this formality is required — the landlord of the inn has generally a permanent ticket.
At Moscow it will be still more difficult to meet with a good lacquey-de-place. The best is to be heard of at Mrs. Howard's. This man must obtain tickets to see the Treasury of the Kremlin, the Foundling Hospital, and the old Palace of the Tzars. It has sometimes been remarked by travellers that a valet-de- place may be dispensed with, except when visiting one or two special sights, but, judging by our own experience in every part of Eu'.ope, nothing can be more erroneous, even when the traveller is master of several European languages; in Russia, where the difficulties are still greater, this advice is not only bad in regard to comfort, but also in reference to expense, for if you are a diligent and active sight-seer you will get over more work in one day with the assistance of one of these fellows than you will in three without him. Moreover, unless the traveller is such a fortunate individual as to speak Russ, an interpreter is required almost every minute to give him information relating to the objects which make such frequent calls upon his curiosity. Failing to obtain one of the regular craft at Moscow, some respectable Englishman may be found to lionize his curious countryman ; we had, some years since, the pleasure of being attended by Mr. Shuttleworth, the clerk of the English church there. At Odessa, there being little to see, there are no professed lacqueys-de-place, but a nondescript will be found at the hotels, who will be able to interpret for the traveller, and show him the town.
Should he propose to visit the Crimea, which is well worthy of being seen,
* If the traveller be one of those rare persons who take time and circumstances by the forelock, he will haVe written to St. Petersburgh previously to his leaving England, and secured both his rooms at Mrs. Wilson's and his lacquey-de-place.
BllSsia. LACQUET-DE-PLACE AND SERVANTS. 409
the trip cannot be accomplished with any degree of comfort or advantage with- out a guide who can interpret, and look after the horses, &c. ; such a man will not be difficult to find ; a Greek, who can speak French, or Italian and Russian, will be the most likely person to be met with duly qualified : not succeeding in this, a Russo-Italian or German is the next best chance.
The great majority of servants in Russia are serfs, who, at the will of the noble, are transmogrified from ploughmen into domestics of every description, according to the intelligence and activity they may possess. The number em- ployed in a family of high rank is astonishing, and Kohl gives the following list as forming the establishment of a fully appointed house of the first class in this country : — " There are the superintendent of accounts, the secretary, the dvoretski, or m.aitre d'hotel, the valets of the lord, the valets of the lady, the dydtha or overseer of the children, the footmen, the huffetscheh or butler, and his adjuncts, the table-decker, the head groom, the coachman and postillions of the lord, and the coachman and postillions of the lady, the attendants on the sons of the house and their tutors, the porter, the head cook and his assistant, the baker, and the confectioner ; the whole body of mujiks or servants, minimariwn gentium, the stove heater, the quass brewer, the waiting maids and wardrobe keeper of the lady, the waiting maids of the grown-up daughters and of the governesses, the nurses in and past service, and the under nurses ; and, where a private band is maintained, the Russian hapelhneister and the musicians. Many of the upper servants are foreigners, such as the maitre d'hotel, the valet de chambre^ and furniture keeper, who generally have as much as 50^. a year, the head cook, if a Frenchman, 100^., and sometimes more; the coachmen and foot- men from 18^. to 30^. a year ; the foreign waiting women and nurses 48^., and even the lowest house servants from 20/, to 30/. Amongst the foreign servants the Germans are the most nixmerous; then the Finlanders, Esthonians and Lithuanians ; the Frenchmen are for the most part cooks. There are few Eng- lish servants, and these are chiefly nurses and stud grooms, but there are many English tutors and governesses." The foreign servants at Odessa are the out- casts of their respective countries, whether Greeks, Italians, or Germans, and, with few exceptions, are dirtj^, dishonest, and given to drinking. No characters are asked for or expected, and the only security their employer has is their carte- de-sejour, which it is as well to show to some friend who can read Russ, for it may be a certificate of marriage, or some other document as little to the purpose. We had some experience of Odessa servants, and, through a large acquaintance, a good opportunity of acquiring more. One of them, a keen and competent judge, said, " Rogues go to Pera to learn their trade, and, when perfect, to Odessa to practise it," and concluded his remark with the following anecdote : " One day I found my cook cheating me far more than was customary and expected, and accordingly bought a pair of scales to check her rapacity. In these, on the next market-day, I desired the frau to weigh her purchases, when down went her basket, and eyeing first the scales, and then me from head to foot, she put her
410 HINTS ON CLIMATE, CLOTHING, ETC. Scct. V.
arms a-kimbo and said, ' What, Mein Herr ! do you think I '11 live in a house where scales are kept? Nein, nein, you must get some one else to do your marketings,' adding, in her elegant patois, ' Mein Gott, ich nich wol.' " All servants, -whether foreigners or not, pay 6 silver rubles for their carte-de- sejour per annum; this is independent of the tax called the 'abrok,' which they pay, if serfs, to their master for permission to leave the estate and seek their fortune on their own account. A Russian, if he can speak any European language besides his own, will be found, whether male or female, a better servant than the foreign ones.
18. HINTS ON CLIMATE, CLOTHING, ETC.
Some remarks respecting the climate will be useful to the traveller if he intends passing a winter in Russia, for it will be absolutely necessary that he should pi'epare for it, and the cold is more intense at St. Petersburgh than at Archangel, in consequence of the piercing east winds which sometimes prevail. "This season is considered to have set in in October, and as long as the thermo- meter shows only a cold of 12° or 15° of Reaumur, people think themselves en- joying a mild winter. It is only when the cold falls to an unusual degree of severity that any change takes place ; when the thermometer stands at 20° every man pricks up his ears, and becomes a careful observer of its risings and fallings. At 23° or 21° the police are put on the alert, and the officers go round day and night to see that the sentries and hutotshniks keep awake. Should any one be found nodding at his post, he is summarily and severely punished, for sleep at such a time is a sure state of transition from life to death. At 25° all the theatres are closed, as it is then thought impossible to adopt the necessary precautions for the safety of the actors on the stage, and of the coachmen and ser- vants waiting in the street. The pedestrians, who at other times are rather leisurely in their movements, now run along the streets as though they were hastening on some mission of time and death, and the sledges dash in tempo celeratissimo over the creaking snow. As to faces, they are not to be seen in the street, every one has drawn his furs over his head, and is anxious about his nose and ears; for as the freezing of these appendages is not preceded by any uncomfortable sensations to warn the sufferer of his danger, he has enough to think of if he intends to keep his extremities in order. ' Father, father, thy nose,* one man will cry to another as he passes him, or even stop and apply a handful of snow to the stranger's proboscis, and endeavour by rubbing it to restore the suspended circulation. A man's e3^es also cost him some trouble, for they freeze up every now and then ; on such occasions it is customary to knock at the first house one comes to and ask permission to occupy a place for a few minutes by the stove, a favour never denied, and the stranger seldom fails to acknowledge it on his departure by dropping a grateful tear on the hospitable floor. There are families at this season who spend weeks without once tasting a mouthful of fresh air, and at last, when the cold has reached its extreme point.
Russia. HINTS ON CLIMATE, CLOTHING, ETC. 411
none are to be seen in the street but the poorer classes, unless it be foreigners, people on business, or officers; as to these last, the parades and guard-mountings are never interrupted by any degree of cold, and while the frost is hard enough to cripple a polar bear, generals and colonels may be seen in their glittering uniforms moving as nimbly about the windy Admiralty Square, as though they were promenading a ball room. Not a particle of cloak is to be seen about them, not a whisper of complaint is heard. The Emperor's presence forbids both, for he exposes himself unhesitatingly to wind, snow, hail, and rain, and expects from his officers the same disregard of the inclemencies of the season."
Should, therefore, a traveller visit Russia in the winter, it is evident that he must have a schooha (a fur pelisse) ; and if his route lies through Germany he will make a good speculation by purchasing one at Leipsic, or some other great town on his road — a schojppen in Germany will cost only half as much as it will in Russia. A handsome fur pelisse of the yenott or racoon may be purchased at Leipsic for 121. The price of one, even in England, would be much less than in Russia, though perhaps somewhat dearer than in Germany. A seal-skin travelling cap is also essential, the ears not being pro- tected by a hat ; and this should be procured at the same time as the schooba. Carpet bags are the most convenient things in which baggage can be conveyed when it is necessary to travel on horseback, the only mode of locomotion in the Crimea : two strapped together by the handles can be thrown across the back of the animal on which the guide will be mounted. An English saddle is also highly desirable, and will save a large portion of cuticle which must inevitably be lost by the use of a Tartar one ; the fatigue, too, will be immeasurably less. A schooba will also be indispensable even in the south in winter, and a brown Holland blouse and a straw hat in the summer, for the dust and heat are excessive ; there is no climate so parched and dry in Europe as Odessa. A bottle of pure cognac will be found useful everywhere. To those who in- tend to remain any time in Russia, and mix in Russian society, it will be abso- lutely necessary that they should bring letters of introduction, speak French fluently, and be able to foot it on the light fantastic ; accomplishments highly prized, and likely to be constantly in requisition.
Letters of introduction to persons high in office or rank will indeed be found not only useful but almost absolutely indispensable; many difficulties, otherwise insuperable, will be smoothed away by them, and we strongly recommend the traveller who intends to visit Russia to turn his attention to this point before he leaves England. A long purse, well lined, is also desirable, for considerable expense, not to say extravagance, is unavoidable at St, Petersburgh, particularly if the visitor should desire to take any part in the gaieties and amusements which are unceasing during the winter months ; the cost will be half as much again what it would be in Vienna or Rome, and, with good management, the expense per diem, with a sledge, will be about twenty-two shillings, not including wine, theatres, and a private servant. Then as to the day of the month, it will be well
412 A VOCABULARY OF RUSSIAN WORDS. Sect. V.
to remember that the Russians have not yet altered their style, and that they are twelve days behind the rest of Europe, so that if the traveller arrives in Russia on the 1st of June, he vv^ill there find it only the 20th of May; it may also be useful to him to recollect that Reaumur is the favourite thermometer on the Continent, and Fahrenheit in his own country, and that each degree of the former is equivalent to 2 j degrees of the. latter. Also that a Russian invariably takes off his hat whenever he enters beneath a roof, be it palace, cottage, or hovel ; the reason for which is that in every apartment of every Russian house there hangs in one corner of it, just below the ceiling, a picture of the Virgin. To omit conforming to this usage, and paying respect to the penates of the dwell- ing, will not be either wise or well-bred, for it may give offence ; a man has no business to travel in foreign countries who cannot make up his mind to con- form to their customs.
Besides a well furnished purse, a large stock of patience and temper is need- ful, more especially if the empire of the Tzar be entered by the Black Sea. In this case the traveller should, when at Constantinople, write to his banker in Odessa, and request him to send some one to meet him on his arrival at the Lazaret with a pair of shoes, (his measure can be sent in the letter,) socks or stockings, trowsers, shirt, waistcoat and coat or dressing-goAvn ; this is supposing the infected man arrives in the summer ; if he is unfortunate enough to land in the winter, a schooha will be highly necessary. Unless this precaution is taken the traveller will be confined one day more in quarantine by being obliged to remain on board the steamer until a suit of his own wardrobe has been fumigated, for the clothes that he arrives in must be thrown off, and in a state of nature must he show himself to the medical officers of the establishment before he is allowed to go into another room to clothe himself in fresh garments — ladies and children, not even excepting the most minute baby, are not exempt from this shedding of plumage. If, on the other hand, the new arrival is content to wear the habiliments let out for the occasion by the restaurateur of the Lazaret, he need not write to his banker, but he must be prepared to look very grotesque, and probably to find his stockings too small, his shoes too large, or the tail of his coat, if a small man, touch- ing the ground. There is, also, another advantage in apprizing the banker, or any other person to whom the stranger may have a letter, of his intended journey to Odessa, not only will he obtain a comfortable suit, but it will give him the opportunity of becoming acquainted with him, and succeeding visits will break the dreadful tedium of quarantine.
19. A VOCABULARY OP WORDS AND PHRASES OF MOST FREQUENT OCCURRENCE.
The vowels should be pronounced as in the Italian language, the French pronunciation not being so suitable, on account of the difference in the zt, as the following example, the name of the town Tula, will show ; this is pronounced
Russia.
A VOCABULAKY OF EUSSIAN WOKDS.
413
as if written in English Toola. In all cases the j is used as an English consonant, and pronounced rather soft. It must be observed that this col- lection of words and phrases is not given with any pretension to that ac- curacy which is so difficult of attainment in expressing the pronunciation of one language by the alphabet of another, but it is hoped that they are sufficiently correct to be in some degree useful to a stranger who visits Russia for the first time. The unceremonious amalgamation of several words into one may possibly offend the Englishman conversant with the Russian language, who will, no doubt, smile at some of our phrases, as we have at a similar liberty taken in a Russian-Anglo dialogue book, where what are supposed to be our national terms of greeting are thus compactly rendered : " Howdodo, makeshakehans, toyorhellt^ gubbye."
|
The Emperor |
Tzar. |
A street |
Prospekt. |
|
The Empress |
Tzarina. |
A cross-street |
Pereulok. |
|
The Crown Prince Tzezarevitch. |
A square |
Ploschad. |
|
|
A hetman |
Ataman. |
A market |
Rinok. |
|
A prince |
Kniass. |
A row of shops |
Pi.ad. |
|
A count |
Graf. |
A quay |
Bereg. |
|
A noble |
Dvoryanin, |
A gateway |
Podyasde. |
|
The lord |
Gossudar. |
A suburb |
Slahoda. |
|
Sir |
Gospodin. |
An island |
Ostrof. |
|
The head of ^ village Starosta. |
A garden |
Ssatt. |
|
|
Crimean) ^ , ,. |
A field |
Lug. |
|
|
village |
/ " ; |
A cathedral |
Sabor. |
|
An emjiloye |
Chinovnik. |
A church |
Serkov, |
|
A freeman |
Volni. |
A cemetery |
Kladhiahcha. |
|
A peasant |
Christianin. |
The screen |
Ikonostast. |
|
Ditto |
Miijik. |
A monastery |
Monastir. |
|
A maitre d'hotel |
DvoretsJcoi. |
A palace |
Dvoretz. |
|
The police |
Polizia. |
A house |
Dom. |
|
A policeman |
Butotshnik. |
A court-yard |
Dvor. |
|
A blacksmith |
Ktisnitza. |
A villa |
Datsha. |
|
A drosky driver |
Istvostchik. |
A room |
Komnafa. |
|
A postillion |
Yamstchik. |
A shop |
Lafka. |
|
A waiter |
Tchelovek. |
An apothecary's |
I Apteka. |
|
A restaurateur |
Traktir. |
shop |
|
|
A porter |
Dvornik. |
The parade ground Platz-parad. |
|
|
A water carrier |
Vodovos. |
A barrack |
Kazarma. ' |
|
A foreigner |
Inostranez. |
A fort |
Krepust. |
|
Chief city |
Stanitza. |
A bell tower |
Kolokolnik. |
|
A town |
Gorod. |
A bridge |
Most. |
|
A street |
Oulitza. |
A river |
Reka. |
414
A VOCABULAKY OF KUSSIAN WOEDS.
Sect. V.
|
A floating fisli pre-] |
•Sddoht |
Cucumbers |
Ogurtzi. |
|
|
serve J |
Pears |
Grushi. |
||
|
A village |
Derevniani. |
Apples |
Yahlok. |
|
|
A road |
Daroga. |
Nuts |
Reki. |
|
|
A hill |
Gora. |
Bread |
Klieh. |
|
|
The bath house |
Baina. |
Black bread |
of) ^ Tchomi klieh. |
|
|
A post station |
Stanitzia. |
the Steppe |
||
|
The Alien Office |
Adres-hontora. |
Easter pancakes Blinni. |
||
|
The Great Bazaar |
Gostinnoi-Dvor. . |
Cheese |
Sir. |
|
|
The Exchange To write |
Birsha. Pissatt. |
Cheese of Steppe |
> Brinsa. |
|
|
To eat |
Kusshatt. |
Butter |
Maslo. |
|
|
To drink |
Pitt. |
Eggs |
Taitzi. |
|
|
To breakfast |
Savtricatt. |
Cream |
Slifki. |
|
|
Breakfast |
Savtrik. |
Milk |
Maloko. |
|
|
To dine |
Oheadatt. |
Wine |
Vino, |
|
|
Dinner |
Ohett. |
Corn brandy/ |
||
|
To sup |
Oujinatt. |
called by |
Rus- |
|
|
Supper |
Ujin. |
sians the |
little |
>- Vodka. |
|
A portion |
Portsuia. |
water |
||
|
Soup |
Sup]). |
Beer |
Piva. |
|
|
An ice |
Moroshennoye. |
Coffee |
KoffL |
|
|
A national soup |
Batvinia. |
Tea |
Tchai. |
|
|
Cabbage soup |
Shtshie. |
Sugar |
Sacharo. |
|
|
Millet porridge of |
] |
Water |
Voda. |
|
|
the Malo or |
\- Borshtch. |
A glass of water Stakkan vodi. |
||
|
Little Russian |
] |
Hot water |
Goriatche vodi |
|
|
Meat pies |
PiroTc |
Cold water |
Holodne vodi. |
|
|
A roast joint |
Jarlcoi. |
Salt |
Sol. |
|
|
Beef |
Goviadina. |
Pepper |
Perza. |
|
|
Veal |
Tiliatina. |
Vinegar |
Uksussa. |
|
|
Fish |
Riha. |
Mustard |
Gortschitza. |
|
|
Ham |
Vitchina. |
A table |
Stol. |
|
|
A fowl |
Kuritza. |
A picture |
Kartina. |
|
|
A chicken |
Tzeplenok. |
A trunk |
Sunduk. |
|
|
A hare |
Zaietz. |
A tea-urn |
Samovar. |
|
|
A partridge |
Ro2)chik. |
A tea-pot |
Tchainik. |
|
|
A heathcock |
ReptshiH. |
A pail |
Vedro. |
|
|
Earth hare of the |
\ |
A bottle |
Botilka. |
|
|
steppe {Cytil- |
- Suslik. |
A glass |
Stakkan. |
|
|
lus vulgaris) |
A cup |
Tchaschka. |
||
|
Potatoes |
Eartoffell. |
A tea cup |
Tchainia. |
|
|
Peas |
Gorokh. |
A wine-glass |
Riumka. |
Hussia.
A VOCABULARY OF RUSSIAN WORDS.
415
|
A plate |
Tarelka. |
Straw |
Saloma. |
|
|
A knife |
Nojik, or nosh. |
A book |
Knig. |
|
|
A fork |
Vilka. |
A Cossack whip |
Nagaika. |
|
|
A spoon |
Loshka. |
A ravine |
Propust, |
|
|
Abed |
Postel. |
A snow-storm |
Viuga, or Mettil. |
|
|
A stove |
Pitch. |
Ice |
Liott. |
|
|
The iron |
plate' |
Half |
Polovina. |
|
|
which |
closes |
- Yiishka. |
A quarter |
Tchetvert. |
|
the chimney of ( |
Great |
Bolshoi. |
||
|
the stove |
J |
Little |
Maloi. |
|
|
Fire |
Agon. |
Beautiful |
Prekrassnaya. |
|
|
A light |
Sviett. |
Old |
Staraia. |
|
|
A napkin |
Solfetka. |
New |
Novaia. |
|
|
A duster |
Trepka. |
Yes |
Da, dass. |
|
|
A hat |
Schliapa. |
No |
Niett. |
|
|
A dress of skins |
Schooha. |
Good, very well |
Harosho. |
|
|
A pair of boots |
Sapogi. |
Notgood, not well |
Ni harosho. |
|
|
Paper |
Bumdga. |
Bring |
Prenici. |
|
|
Ink |
Tscliernila. |
For |
Dla. |
|
|
Pens |
Pero. |
More |
Estcho. |
|
|
Pencil |
Krandash. |
That |
Etto. |
|
|
A bath |
Vanna. |
Enough |
Davolno. |
|
|
A dressing- |
gown |
Halati. |
Not enough |
Ne davolno. |
|
A boat |
Lotka. |
Too long |
Otchen Dolgo. |
|
|
A swing |
• |
Katsheli. |
Give |
Dai. |
|
A carriage |
Kareta. |
Give me |
Dai mne. |
|
|
A peasant's |
cart |
Telega. |
Give us |
Daite nam. |
|
A wheel |
Kolesso. |
Now |
Tipper. |
|
|
The pole |
Dishlo. |
It cannot be done Nelza. |
||
|
The wooden arch' |
Do better |
Zdelailutche. |
||
|
over the horse's |
- Duga. |
Ovitch, or evitch, |
son of — as Paul, |
|
|
head in a ( |
Paulovitch |
|||
|
droshky |
J |
Ovna, or evna, daughter of — as Feodor, |
||
|
A cord |
Verovka. |
Feodorevna |
||
|
A horse |
Loshad. |
Brother |
Brat. |
|
|
Horses Hav |
Loshadi. Senna. |
My little friend |
Drushka. |
416
A VOCABULAKY OF RUSSIAN WORDS.
Sect. y.
DIALOGUES.
I am a foreigner.
He is a foreigner.
I am a noble.
Good day.
Good morning, brother.
Good night.
Good bye.
If you please.
Thank you.
Here.
Who is there 1
Here, here sir.
Come here.
Hollo! here.
I come.
I hear and obey.
Directly.
Let us go (on foot).
Let us go (in a carriage).
Go on.
Drive gently.
Never fear.
Hurry quick.
Drive faster.
Have a care.
Give room, give place.
To the right.
To the left.
Go further on.
Stop.
Tell me.
What is it 1
How do they call it 1
What does it cost ]
It is dear.
It is cheap.
It is much.
I don't know.
It does not want.
I won't have.
Go to the bath.
Ya Jnostranez.
On Jnostranez.
Ya dvoryanin.
Sdrastui souda.
Sdrastui hrat.
Dolroi notsclie.
Prostchai.
Pojalusta.
Blardastnyte — Sjxissibo.
Davai!
Hto tarn ?
Sdess.
Padi sudi.
Posluchi.
Sitcliass pridov.
Slushai.
Si tchas.
Poidem, padyom.
Poedem.
Pashol.
Ttske, or pomalo.
Niet shevoss.
Scorrei.
Pashol scorri.
Beregrissa.
Padi, padi.
Na pravo.
Na levo.
Pashol tam dalshe.
Stoi.
Skajlte-mne.
Tschto talcoi t
Kahzavut ?
Tschto stoit ? SkoUco stoit.
Eto Dorogo.
Dechevo.
Eto mnogo.
Nisnaiii.
Nenado.
Nhatchu.
Paidite hannu.
Russia.
A VOCABULARY OF RUSSIAN WORDS.
417
Is it ready 1
Set the tea-urn.
On with the tea-urn.
Give us a spoon.
What 's to be done 1
What 's o'clock 1
In how many hours !
Is it possible ?
Where is the inn?
How many versts 1
Where is the landlord 1
I will pass the night here.
When do 3^ou start?
To-morrow.
In an hour.
It is time to be off.
Which is the way to 1
Pray show me the way. What kind of a road is it ? Are the horses to 1 What is to pay for them 1 Drink money. Tea money.
I will give you drink money. I will not give you drink money.
Gotovoli ?
Postav somovar.
Somovar postavit.
Dai loshha.
Tchto dellut ?
Katori chass ?
Tcheres sTcolko tchasoffl
Mojnoli ?
Gde Tra/dir?
Sholko verst ? $
Gde chorjain ?
Zdess natch uju.
Kogda wu ujedete?
Savtra.
Tscheres tchass.
Pora jechat.
Katoroi darogo mne iiti ?
Proschu polcasMte mne darogo. Kakova darogo ? Sapriajini loshadei? '
SJcolho progon ? Na vodJca. Na Tchai. Dam na vodJca. Nidam na vodka.
Names of the Months, Days of the Week, dec.
|
January |
Janver. |
Tuesday |
Vtornik. |
|
February |
Fevrail. |
Wednesday |
Sereda. |
|
March |
Mart. |
Thursday |
Tchitvierg. |
|
April |
Aprel. |
Friday |
Piatnitza. |
|
May |
Mai. |
Saturday |
Suhota. |
|
June |
June. |
Sunday |
Voskrisinie. |
|
July |
Yule. |
Winter |
Zinna. |
|
August |
Avgust. |
Summer |
Leto. |
|
September |
Sentiaher. |
A year |
God. |
|
October |
Octaher. |
A month |
Mesetz. |
|
November |
Noyaber. |
A week |
Nedelia. |
|
December |
Dicaher. |
A day |
Den. |
|
Monday |
Ponidilnik. |
An hour |
Tchass. |
418
HISTOKICAL NOTICE.
Sect. V.
The Numerals.
and
one, adin.
two, dvd.
three, tri.
four, tchetiri.
five, piatt
six, shiest.
seven, sem.
eight, vosem.
nine, deviett.
ten, deceit.
eleven, adin-natzatt.
twelve, dva-natzatt ;
so on, always adding natzatt to
each number up to
twenty, dvatzatt.
twenty-one, dvatzatt- adin.
twenty-two, dvatzatt-dvd ; and so on, always adding the unit up to one hundred, as
thirty, tritzatt.
forty, sorok.
fifty, piatdisiatt.
sixty, shiesdiziatt.
seventy, semdiziatt.
eighty, vosemdiziatt.
ninety, devenosto.
one hundred, sto.
one thousand, tissiatcha.
Weight&
68 grains 96 zolotniks
40 Russian pounds (being 36 English avoirdupois)
1 zolotnik. 1 pound. 1 pood.
20. HISTORICAL NOTICE.
The space allotted to this sketch being sufficient only to furnish the traveller with a few historical memoranda of the remarkable events in Russian history, and the most celebrated sovereigns who have swayed the destinies of that empire, renders it impossible to give any descriptive details, more particularly of those monarch s who lived nearer to our own times, and who have figured conspi- cuously in European politics. The more salient and important points will, there- fore, alone be mentioned.
History and tradition concur in showing that Europe was peopled by three great families of the human race, who emigrated westward, at distinct periods ; the last of these migrations was that of the Sclavonians, who established them- selves on the Don, about 400 years before Christ. Herodotus calls them the Sauromatse, and they were, until the fourth century of the Christian era, known in Europe by the appellation of Sclaves, or Sclavonians. In the days of the Greek historian their mode of life was exceedingly rude and barbarous ; they had no houses, and lived, very much like the Malo or Little Russian of the present day, a nomade and pastoral life, journeying from one verdant spot to another in a long waggon, which contained all their worldly belongings, and
Russia. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 419
stopping at each only so long as they found there was sufficient pasture for their flocks and herds. In time of peace their principal occupations were the rearing of cattle^ the chase and the management of bees, while their chief characteristics seem to have been in a degree analogous to those of their descendants, the modern Eussians ; they were hospitable, courageous, good humoured, contented, and immoderately fond of spirituous liquors ; like most barbarous nations, however, the courage of the Sclaves frequently degenerated into cruelty, and murder was no uncommon crime amongst them. Their religion was idolatrous, and their mode of worship resembled the gross and degraded forms of the ancient Druids; they not only offered up their prisoners as a holocaust to their chief deity, Perune, the Zeus of the Greeks and the Jupiter of the Romans, but would sometimes even immolate their own children to his honour.
It was not till the fifth century, that the wild Sclavonians, who had overrun a large portion of European Russia, founded any remarkable settle- ments; these were Novgorod, on the Ilmen; and Kief, or Kiow, on the Dnieper ; where they afterwards became distinguished for their commerce, their riches, and incipient civilization. Singularly enough, democracy was at this period their established form of government; but in the ninth century, the inhabitants of Novgorod became divided into several political factions, which weakened their power, and exposed them to the incursions of the surrounding states. In this conditioij they were induced by Grostomisle, the first magistrate whose name is recorded in the history of the republic, to invite Rurik, a Varago-Russian Prince, to come to their assistance; and, accordingly, in the year 864, that prince acceded to their request, took up his residence at Novgorod, and there founded the Russian monarchy, the sceptre of which con- tinued to be held by his descendants for upwards of 700 years. Two of Rurik's followers subsequently left him to seek their fortunes in the south, and on their journey to Constantinople they attacked the town of Kief, gained pos- session of it, and it thus became the capital of a second Sclavonian kingdom.
Six sovereigns succeeded Rurik, and their congenial occupation seems to have been to make war upon the Grreeks and the countries bordering their own. These princes all followed the pagan worship of their fathers, but Vladimir, the seventh in descent, who possessed himself of the throne in 981, was converted to Christianity; a conversion, however, which was accompanied by several acts of capricious cruelty. Christianity was indeed fearfully sullied at its introduction by the conduct of this monarch, and its profession softened but little the coarse pagan temperament of the Russian people, though Vladimir's own conduct was afterwards in a great degree affected by its precepts. His nature became changed, the cruelty of his disposition gave way to clemency and humility, and when awarding punishments for crime, he is said to have exclaimed, " What am I, that I should condemn a fellow creature to death?" He also endea- voured to overcome the violent prejudices and superstitions of his subjects, by founding seminaries for the education of the nobles; in these he placed
420 HISTOKICAL NOTICE. Sect. V.
professors obtained from Grreece, and from tliat classic land he likewise pro- cured architects, and other ingenious persons, to instruct his people in their several crafts. Such was the conduct of Vladimir, who lived 700 years before Peter the Great. But, as we have already remarked, his example does not seem to have produced any great amelioration in the condition of his subjects, or to have raised their tone of moral feeling ; in common with almost all early and barbarous histories, superstition, breach of faith, and cruelty in all their worst forms, continued to be but too prominently displayed. Vladimir, however, deserved well of his country, and the Russian church has enrolled him among the number of her saints. History, also, to distinguish him from other princes of the same name, has considered him worthy of the surname of Great, His son Yaroslaf, who reigned thirty-five years, and died in 1054, at the age of seventy-seven years, was a prince of considerable attainments, and a great patron of the arts ; the church of St. Sophia, at Novgorod, was by his order decorated with pictures and mosaics, portions of which are said to remain to the present time. His expedition against Constantino XI., who then held the sceptre of the Eastern Empire, though unsuccessful, as well as his ac- quirements, and the splendour in which he lived, made his name known and respected throughout Europe. Three of his daughters were married to the kings of France, Norway, and Hungary ; and his eldest son, Vladimir, who died before him, had for wife a daughter of the unfortunate Harold, the last of our Saxon kings. Yaroslaf died in 1054, and divided the empire, as was usually the case, among his sons. Vladimir Monomachus, his grandson, who died in the early part of the next century, did the same ; and as the Russian monarchs were blessed, generally speaking, with a numerous offspring, (the last mentioned sovereign had eight children,) the country was continually a prey to internal dissensions and strife, and these family feuds were not settled until an appeal had been made to the sword, which, being congenial to the disposition of the people and the temper of the times, was frequently prolonged for years. In the year preceding the death of Monomachus, Kief was nearly destroyed by fire, and from the great number of churches and houses that fell a prey to the flames, that city must then have been of great opulence and extent. This calamity was followed in the succeeding reigh by a still greater one, when the sister capital, Novgorod, was desolated by a famine so awful that the survivors were not sufficiently numerous to bury the dead, and the streets were blocked up by the putrid corpses of the inhabitants.
The reigns which followed this period of Russian history, are distinguished by little else than continual wars with the Poles, Lithuanians, Polovetzes, and Tchudes, with this exception, that the town of Vladimir, built by Yury I., in 1158, became in that year the capital instead of Kief. But a more formidable enemy than the inhabitants of the countries and tribes already mentzDned drew near the Muscovite territory, in the person of Tuschki, the son of Zenghis Khan, who, emigrating with his Tartars westward, led them, about the year 1223, from
Russia. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 421
the shores of the Sea of Aral and the Caspian, to those of the Dnieper. The Circassians and Polovetzes having endeavoured in vain to arrest the progress of the horde were at length constrained to apply to their hitherto inveterate foes for assistance, and, the cause being now equally dear to all parties, the Eussians made an intrepid stand on the banks of the Kalka. The impetuous attack, however, of the invaders was not to be withstood, and, the Prince of Kief treacherously abstaining from taking part in the battle, tl;e Russians were completely routed, and scarcely a tenth part of an army, composed of 100,000 men, escaped. The enemy then pursued his way unmolested to the capital, which he took, and put 50,000 of the inhabitants of the principality of Kief to the sword. The further progress of the Tartars northward was marked hx fire and sword, but, having reached Novogorod Severski, they faced about and retreated to the camp of Zenghis Khan, who was at this time in Buk- haria. Thirteen years after, Boatz Khan, his grandson, desolated Eussia afresh, committing every species of cruelty, and aggravated breaches of faith with the towns who submitted to his arms. In this manner, the provinces of Eiazan Periaslavl, Eostof, and several others fell into his hands, for with incredible apathy, and contrary to their usually warlike inclinations, the Eussian princes neglected to raise any troops to dispute their progress; and Yury II,, prince of Vladimir, was at this critical juncture occupied in celebrating the marriage of one of his boyards. At length, suddenly roused to a sense of his desperate position, he placed himself at the head of some troops hastily called too-ether and left his family under the protection of one of his nobles, trusting that his capital would be able to sustain a long siege. He was mistaken: the Tartars soon made themselves masters of Vladimir, and the grand princesses, as well as other persons of distinction, were burnt alive in the church in which they had taken shelter. On hearing of this tragical event, Yury marched with his adherents to meet the foe; the conquest was sanguinary and short, but after performing prodigies of valour they were borne down by overpowering num- bers, and the prince was left amongst the slain. There was now nothing to dispute the march of the ruthless Tartars, and they pushed forward to within sixty miles of Nov,ogorod, when they again turned round without any ostensible motive, and evacuated the Russian territorj'. The wretched condition into which the southern and central parts of the empire was thrown by these in- vasions afforded a most advantageous opportunity for other enemies to attack it; and, accordingly, in 1242, and during the reign of Yaroslaf II., the Swedes, Danes, and Livonians, sent a numerous and well- disciplined army to demand the submission of Novogorod; this Alexander, the son of the reigning sovereign, refused, and, leaving his capital, he advanced, unaided by any allies, to meet his opponents, and fought the celebrated battle of the Neva, which gained him the surname of Nefski, and a place in the Russian Calendar. The personal courage of Alexander in this battle was of the highest order, and mainly contributed to
u
422 HISTORICAL NOTICE. Scct. V.
secure the victory. His memory is still clierished by the Russians, and the order instituted in honour of him is much valued.
A cruel and constantly fluctuating war with the Tartars, various incursions by the Livonians, Lithuanians, Swedes, and Poles ; and the most frightful civil discord amongst the the several, almost regal, provinces of Russia consumed fourteen successive reigns, between Yury II., who died in 1237, and Ivan I., who suc- ceeded his father in the Principality of Vladimir in 1328. At times, during this period, the Tartars, adding insult to injury, arrogated to themselves the power of protectors of this or that interest ; and, in the case of Ivan I., Uzbek Khan secured to him the possession of Novogorod, as well as of Vladimir and Moscow. Ivan's father had greatly beautified and improved the latter town, and Ivan followed his example and made it his residence. Here also resided the Metro- politan, and it therefore rapidly advanced in importance. Ivan's reign of thir- teen years was remarkable as improving and peaceful, and he exercised a sound discretion by building a wall of wood round the city, which supported a rampart of earth and stone. At the close of his life he took monastic vows, and died in 1341. In the reign of Ivan 11. , second son of the previous Tzar of that name, Moscow established its preeminence as a city, and became the capital of the empire ; Ivan died in 1358.
Towards the close of this century the Russians, under Dmitri IV., raised an army of 400,000 men, and met the Tartars near the Don, who were defeated with great loss ; the victors, however, suffered greatly, and when Dmitri reviewed his army after the battle he found it reduced to 40,000 men; this success obtained for him the surname of Donski. Subsequent, however, to this victor}', the Tartars again advanced, and Dmitri, betrayed by his allies, the princes of the neighbouring states, deserted Moscow, which fell by capitulation into the hands of the Tartars, who devastated it with fire and sword until it was utterly destroyed, no building being permitted to remain except those which happened to have been constructed of stone by the Grand Prince. The character ot Dmitri is thus given by the Metropolitan Cyprian : — " He knew," says that ecclesiastic, " how to soften the kingly office by condescension, he was impartial in the administration of justice, and delighted to promote the peace and happi- ness of his subjects; his learning was small, but the rectitude of his disposition, and the kindness of his heart, supplied the defects of education, and entitle him to a distinguished place amongst Russian sovereigns." It was this prince who caused the Kremlin to be erected of stone, and closed by a wall flanked with towers, which were defended by ditches surmounted with stone. His son, Basil II., Avho succeeded him in 1389, was also destined to see his country in- vaded by the Tartars under Tamerlane, but they never reached the capital, for he prepared to give them battle on the river Okha, when they suddenly turned round and retired, as their countrymen had previously done on two other occa- sions. The Russians attributed this to a miracle performed by a picture of the
BuSSia. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 423
Virgin Mary, painted by St. Luke. The horde, however, joined by the Lithu- anians, afterwards laid siege to Moscow, but were repulsed by the inhabitants, the Grand Prince having retired with his family to Kostroma ; exasperated at this defeat, the Tartars in their retreat harassed the surrounding country, and slaughtered the defenceless peasantry. Money was first coined in Novogorod during this reign, hitherto its place had been supplied with skins and pieces of leather ; twenty skins of the marten were considered as equivalent to a grivna, the value of which was a real pound of gold or silver, of nine and a quarter ounces in Kief, and thirteen in Novogorod.
During the reign of Basil, Kazan was taken from the Tartars, and Russia was thrice visited with the plague and famine, while the ancient city of Novogorod was shaken by an earthquake after the greater part of its buildings had been consumed by fire. Internal dissensions broke out on the death of Basil, a dis- pute having arisen respecting the succession to the throne between the son of that monarch and his xmcle Greorge ; this was by the consent of both parties left to the decision of the Khan of Tartary, who determined in favour of the former ; nevertheless a civil war followed, and George was for a short time in possession of the throne, when, finding himself abandoned by his party and his family, he restored it to his nephew, and returned to his principality of Galitch. Compli- cated wars, Russian and Tartar, followed ; the principal incident of which was that Ivan, the Prince of Mojask, in the interest of the traitor Chemiaka, in- duced Basil to stop at the monastery of the Troitzkoi to return thanks on his arrival from the horde, and, having seized him there, he took him to Moscow and put out his eyes. A few years after the Prince of Mojask had committed this savage act, Basil was restored to the throne, and died in 1462. The Tartars under Mahmet again possessed themselves of Kazan in this reign.
The first exploit which Basil's successor, Ivan III., attempted was the reduc- tion of that province, in which he succeeded after two severe campaigns ; the next was the subjection of Novogorod, in which he also succeeded, incorporating that city and province with his own dominions, and, having received the oaths of the inhabitants, he carried off with him to Moscow their celebrated town clock, which he suspended in a tower before the Kremlin, to be used only to call the people to their devotions. The next and most arduous undertaking was the destruction of the Golden Horde, under Achraet, which he effected in revenge for the insult offered him by that Khan in demanding the homage which he had re- ceived from his predecessors. Ivan spat on the edict and Achmet's seal, and put his ambassadors to death, sparing one only to convey the intelligence to his master, who prepared in the following year to take his revenge ; but, awed by the preparations made to receive him on the Okha, he retired fop a time, and subsequently took the more circuitous route through Lithuania, from which country he expected support ; the Russians, however, met and defeated a part of his horde, and were returning home, when the Khan was met on a different route by the Nogay Tartars, who routed his army and slew him in the battle.
u 2
424 HiSTOEiCAL NOTICE. Sect. V.
His ally, Casimir IV., also brought himself under Ivan's indignation, not only for this war, but because he attempted to poison him, and a raid that he made into the territories of the Polish king was eminently successful. This powerful and ambitious prince also made treaties of alliance with, and received ambassadors from, the Pope, the Sultan, the King of Denmark and Poland, and the Republic of Venice; it was he who assumed the title of Grand Prince of Novogorod, Vladimir, Moscow, and all Russia, and changed the arms of St. George on horse- back for the Black Eagle with two heads, after his marriage with Sophia, a princess of the imperial blood of Constantinople. In fact, Ivan III. maybe called the true founder of the modern Russian empire. The Russian historian, Ka- ramsin, thus describes him : — " Without being a tyrant like his grandson, he had received from nature a certain harshness of character which he knew how to moderate by the strength of his reason. It is, however, said that a single glance of Ivan, when he was excited with anger, would make a timid woman swoon — that petitioners dreaded to approach his throne, and that even at his table, the boyards, his grandees, trembled before him ;" which portrait does not belie his own declaration, when the same boyards demanded that he should give the crown to his grandson Ivan, whom he had dispossessed in favour of a son by his second wife, " I will give to Russia whomsoever I please." He died, very in- firm, in 1505, having reigned forty -three years. Wars between the Russians, the Poles, the Tartars, and the Novogorodians again arose on the death of Ivan, and it was not till the death of Basil IV., his successor, and a minority of twelve years had elapsed in the reign of Ivan IV., that internal cabals and in- trigues were for a time suppressed. This monarch, the first to take the title of Tzar, married Anastasia, the daughter of Roman Yuryvitch, who in the early part of his reign had the happiest ascendancy over a character naturally violent and cruel. Ivan was at this period affable and condescending, accessible to both rich and poor, and his mental powers under her guidance were employed in advancing the interests and happiness of his subjects. Ivan soon per- ceived that to preserve his own power he must annihilate the Tartar domi- nion; to this he felt his uninstructed army was unequal: he therefore established, in 1545, the militia of the Strelitzes, and armed them with muskets instead of bows, hitherto their arms, as their name imports, from Strelai, an arrow. He then laid siege to and captured Kazan, taking the Khan prisoner. He likewise defeated Gustavus Wasa in a pitched battle near Viborg, ravaged Livonia, taking Dorpat, Narva, and thirty fortified towns, and made war on the King of Poland because he had refused him his daughter in marriage. An unsuccessful campaign against this potentate, attributed by the boyards to the unskilful arrangements of the foreign generals, as well as the death of his wife Anastasia, whose con- trolling influence was no longer felt, led to the unlimited indulgence of his naturally ferocious disposition, and the remaining acts of his life, which this short sketch will not permit us to dilate upon, gained for him, in the history of his country, the surname of " The Terrible." Independently of the many and
Russia, HISTOBICAL NOTICE. 425
dreadful acts of barbarity of which he was guilty, he killed his own son in a paroxysm of rage, but died a prey to the grief and remorse which this fearful crime occasioned him, after having endeavoured to atone for it by giving large sums of money to diiferent monasteries ; he received the tonsure in his last moments. As a legislator he was superior to his predecessors, having, with the assistance of his nobles, compiled a code of laws called Soudehnik. In his reign an English ship, commanded by Richard Chancellor, on a voyage of discovery in the Arctic Sea, anchored in the mouth of the Dwina, and, when the informa- tion of this circumstance was forwarded to Ivan, he invited Chancellor to Moscow, where, on his arrival, he was received with marked attention, and presented with a letter to carry back to his sovereign, expressing a desire to enter into commercial relations with England, and to have English artificers and workmen sent to him ; it is curious that even at this early period the fair which he established at Narva was so glutted with English, Dutch, and French goods, that some of them were sold for less than the prime cost in their respective countries. Ivan controlled his religious prejudices, and tolerated the Lutheran churches of the German merchants at Moscow ; but he never shook hands with a foreign ambassador without washing his own immediately after his visitor had taken his leave. With a character so strongly marked by cruelty, superstition, and caprice, it is remarkable to find not only that he v/as enterprising and intel- ligent, but that he should ever have entertained the idea of placing the Scriptures in the hands of his subjects in the mother tongue ; he did, however, order a translation to be made of the Acts and Epistles, and had it disseminated over his dominions. " In the memory of the people," observes Karamsin, *' the bril- liant renown of Ivan survived the recollection of his bad qualities. The groans had ceased, the victims were reduced to dust ; new events caused ancient tradi- tions to be forgotten, and the memory of this prince reminded people only of the conquest of three Mogul kingdoms. The proofs of his atrocious actions were buried in the public archives, whilst Kazan, Astrakan, and Siberia remained in the eyes of the nation as imperishable monuments of his glory. The Russians, who saw in him the illustrious author of their power and civilization, rejected or forgot the surname of tyrant given him by his contemporaries. Under the influence of some confused recollections of his cruelty, they still call him Ivan " The Terrible," without distinguishing him from his grandfather Ivan III., to whom Russia had given the same epithet rather in praise than in reproach. History does not pardon wicked princes so easily as do people." Ivan IV. died in 1684, having governed the Russian nation for a longer period than any other sovereign, namely, fifty-one years.
Fedor I., who ascended the throne after his death, and was a feeble and va- cillating prince, died in 1598. His successor was Boris Grodunof, the brother of Anastasia, the Tzar Ivan's first wife, who, like our own Richard, compassed the death of his nephew, Dmitri, Fedor's younger brother, during that Tzar's life- time ) and therefore in Fedor ended the dynasty of Rurik, which during eight
426 HISTORICAL NOTICE. Sect. V.
centuries had wielded tlie Russian sceptre. Consequent upon this deed came all kinds of civil calamities^ and in 1604 there arose a pretender to the throne in the person of a Russian monk. This man assumed the character of the murdered Dmitri, and, after having draw^n to his standard the Poles and the Cossacks of the Don, met Boris in the field, remained master of it, and in the space of one year seated himself on the throne. Nor was this civil war the only calamity which befell the Russians during the reign of Boris; Moscow was, in 1600, decimated by the most appalling famine that ever devastated the capital of a country ; it is related that, driven by the pangs of hunger, instances occurred of mothers having first slain and then eaten their own children ; and it is recorded that a woman, in her extremity, seized with her teeth the flesh of her son, whom she carried in her arms. Others confessed that they had entrapped into their dwellings, and subsequently killed and eaten, three men successively. One hundred and twenty-seven thousand corpses .remained for some days in the streets unburied, and were afterwards interred in the fields, exclusive of those which had been previously buried in the four hundred churches of the city. An eyewitness relates that this awful visitation carried off 500,000 persons from this densely peopled capital, the population of which was, at the time, augmented by the influx of strangers. During this dreadful calamity, Boris, with justifiable violence, broke open the granaries which avarice had closed, and had the corn sold at half its value.
Interminable and inexplicable troubles, a second false Dmitri, and other im- postors, led to the occupation of Moscow by the Poles in 1610, who entered the city with Vladislaus, son of Sigismund, King of Poland, elected to the throne by the boyards, on condition that he should embrace the Greek religion. This gave great offence to the national feeling, and Minim, a citizen of Nishni Novogo- rod, called his countrymen to arms, and entreated the General Pojarski to take the command ; this he did without reluctance, and his army was quickly in- creased by the arrival of troops and money from various towns, and by the Cossacks and Strelitzes who flocked to his banner. Thus strengthened, they marched to Yaroslaf, and afterwards to Moscow, to which they laid siege, car- ried the Kitai Gorod by assault, and made a fearful slaughter of the Poles — when the inhabitants, driven to the last extremity by famine, surrendered, and Vladislaus abandoned the country. A fine monument was erected in the open space, under the Kremlin walls, in 1818, to the memory of Minim and Pojarski ; it represents the high-spirited citizen of Nishni calling on his countrymen to rid Russia of the foreign enemy, while Pojarski listens attentively'' to the stirring exhortation.
With a vacant throne, and unembarrassed by republican feelings, the boyards, after the flight of Vladislaus, proceeded to elect as their Tzar Michael Romanoff, the son of the Metropolitan of Rostof, who was, at the time, only sixteen years of age ; and from him is descended the present imperial family. The usual routine of civil strife and foreign wars continued after the accession of Romanoff;
Russia. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 427
and that in which the Tzar was involved with Gustavus Adolphus was terminated, not much to the advantage of Russia, through the mediation of England, France, and Holland. A treaty was signed by the belligerent parties on the 26th of January, 1616, which gave to Sweden Ingria, Carelia, Livonia, and Esthonia, the Russians retaining Novogorod ; and these terms seem to have been dictated by the Tzar's love of peace. The Poles were, at this time, masters of Smolensk, and ravaged the country up to the walls of Moscow, against which they made a night attack, but were repulsed ; they remained, however, in possession of Smolensk, after sustaining a siege of two years. Dragoons are mentioned, for the first time in this reign, as forming part of a Russian army, and the Tzar was assisted in his wars by both German and French troops ; these regiments served him as models for the organization of the Russian army, which was further improved by the discipline introduced by the foreign officers in Romanoff's pay. After a reign distinguished by an enlightened policy and virtuous habits, the Tzar died in July 1645, at the age of only forty-nine years. His son Alexis, who Avas a prince of a mild and benevolent disposition, succeeded him ; the chief events of his reign were the marauding expeditions of the Cossacks of the Don led by Rizan, a rebellion in the city of Astrakan, and the appearance of another false Dmitri, who was brought captive to Moscow and put to a violent and cruel death. In this reign shipwrights came over from Holland and England, and a Dutchman named Butler built a vessel called the Eagle, at Didiloff, the first ship that the Russians had seen built on scientific principles. Alexis died in 1676, and was succeeded by his son Fedor III., who died young, in 1682. During the short period allotted him for the exercise of power he evinced every disposition to carry out his father's plans ; he directed his attention to the improvement of the laws, and rendered justice accessible to all, and, in the words of a Russian historian, " lived the joy and delight of his people, and died amidst their sighs and tears. On the day of his death Moscow was in the same distress that Rome was on the death of Titus." The sovereignty of the Cossacks was secured to Russia in this reign. Fedor left no children, and named no successor, expecting, no doubt, that his own brother Ivan would succeed him ; that prince, however, was both mentally and physically incapable of holding the reins of government, and, in consequence, his sister Sophia was intrusted with the affairs of state by the Strelitzes, who had arrogated to themselves the power of the Praetorian bands, and decided that the Tzar's half-bi'other Peter, afterwards the Great, the son of Natalia, Alexis's second wife, should share the throne with him : in con- sequence, the two boys were crowned together by the Patriarch on the 15th of June, 1682, but Sophia actually reigned. Subsequently to this the Prince Khovanski, leader of the Strelitzes, not only neglecting to cultivate the princess's friendship, but allowing her to perceive that he and his men watched her pro- ceedings, she determined upon his ruin, which was further hastened by the intrigue of his known enemy, Miloslavski. This boyard accused him, in a public placard, of having, with his son and his Strelitzes, conspired to effect the
428 HISTORICAL NOTICE. Sect. V.
death of the two Tzars and the family of Romanoff; and, under this accusation, Khovanski and his son were seized and beheaded. Their followers, at first furious at his death, afterwards becoming disheartened at the preparations made to resist and punish them, proceeded to the monastery of the Troitzkoi, and made their submission to Natalia and the Tzars, who had fled there for refuge. Subsequently Sophia still contrived, with the assistance of her minister, Galitzin, to govern Russia, until she affronted Peter, who retired to the town of Kolomna, to which place he was followed by a large party, and soon after this, being informed that the Strelitzes were again in revolt, under Sophia's influence, Natalia once more removed him to the fortified walls of the Troitzkoi. It was in vain that Sophia disclaimed this accusation. Peter neither believed her nor forgave her ; and, failing in her attempt to reach Poland, she was incarcerated in a monastery for the rest of her life. This princess was, considering the times in which she lived, a woman of extraordinary taste and literary acquirements. A tragedy, written by her when she was involved in state intrigues, and apparently ab- sorbed in political turmoil, is still preserved. On Peter's return from the Troitzkoi to Moscow, his brother resigned to him his share in the government, and in 1689 he became sole Tzar, being, at this time, only seventeen years of age. Ivan survived till 1696.
The ruling passion of Peter the Great was a desire to extend his empire and consolidate his power ; and accordingly his first act was to make war on the Turks, an undertaking which was at the outset imprudently conducted and, con- sequently, unsuccessful; he lost 30,000 men before Azoff, and did not obtain permanent possession of the town till the year 1699, and then by an armistice. In the following year he was defeated at Narva by an inferior force under Charles XII., then only a boy of seventeen ; and on many other occasions the Russians suffered severe checks and reverses. But at length the indomitable perseverance of Peter prevailed. In 1705 he carried Narva, the scene of hia former defeat, by assault ; and two years after, by the crowning victory of Pul- tava, where he showed the qualities of an able general, he sealed the fate of his gallant and eccentric adversary and the nation over which he ruled. In 1711 Peter once more took the field against the Turks; but his troops were badly pro- visioned, and, having led them into a very disadvantageous position near the Pruth, he was reduced to propose a peace, one of the conditions of which was that the King of Sweden should be permitted to return to his own country. From this period to 1718 he was constantly occupied in pursuing with vigour the plans which he had originated for extending the frontiers of his kingdom towards the west; and in 1718 he drove the Swedes out of Finland, made several de- scents upon the coast near Stockholm, destroyed whole towns, obliged her navy to fly, and, finally, in 1721, by the peace of Nystadt, retained Esthonia, Livo- nia, Ingria, a part of Carelia and Finland, as well as the islands of Dago, Moen, Oesel, &c. Having now no enemy on this side, he turned his arms eastward, and took Derbend, on the Caspian, in 1724 — an inglorious conquest, for only
Russia. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 430
6000 men were opposed to his veteran army of 11,000, besides Cossacks and Kalmucks. This was his last military achievement, for he died in 1725 in the fifty-second year of his age.
We have said that the Tzar's ruling passion was to extend his empire and con- solidate his power, but he likewise possessed in an eminent degree the national characteristics — a persevering mind and a resolute will, which bid defiance to all difficulties. By the assistance of his foreign officers he succeeded in forming and bringing into a high state of discipline a large army; he found Russia without a fishing smack, and bequeathed to her a navy to which that of Sweden, long esta- blished and highly efficient, lowered her flag ; he built Petersburgh, which may be said to float upon the waters of the Neva ; he caused canals and other works-- of public utility to be constructed in various parts of his empire, endowed col- leges and universities, and established commercial relations with China and' almost every other nation on the globe. The Tzar likewise possessed the capa- bility of enduring privation and bodily fatigue to an almost incredible extent, and seemed to act upon the idea that by his own personal exertions and the ver- satility of his genius he could accomplish for Russia that which it had taken centuries to effect in other countries, and fancied he could infuse into her citizens an imme- diate appreciation of the mechanical and polite arts, as well as a taste for those things which are seen only in an advanced stage of civilization. Peter devoted his whole attention and energies to this theory, and, though he could not compass impossibilities, he was enabled, by the uncontrolled exercise of the imperial will and inexhaustible resources, to effect a most extraordinary and rapid change in the political and physical condition of his country.
His manual dexterity and mechanical knowledge were great. Against the ex- pressed wish of his boyards and the clergy, who thought it an irreligious act, he left Russia to make himself acquainted with the arts and inventions of other European nations, and worked with an adze in their principal dockyards — he not only built, but sailed his own boat, which is still to be seen in St. Peters- burgh, as are specimens of his engraving, tm-ning, and carpenter's work. He rose at four, at six he was either in the senate or the admiralty, and his subjects must have believed that he had the gift of ubiquity, so many and various were his occupations. He had also the virtue of economy, a quality rarely seen in a sovereign. He even found time to dabble in literature, and translated several vv'orks into Russian ; amongst these was the " Architecture" of Leclerc, and the ^'Art of Constructing Dams and Mills" by Sturm; these MSS. are preserved. During the Tzar's visit to London he was much gazed at by the populace, and on one occasion was upset by a porter who pushed against him with his load, when Lord Carmarthen, fearing there would be a pugilistic encounter, turned angrily to the man, and said, " Don't you know that this is the Tzar ]" '' Tzar !'" replied the man, with his tongue in his cheek, " we are all Tzars here." Saunter- ing one day into Westminster Hall with the same nobleman, when it waaas usual alive v/ith wigs and gowns, Peter asked who these people might be, and, when
V -3
430 HISTOKICAL NOTICE. SeCt. V
informed that they were lawyers, nothing could exceed his astonishment. " Law- yers ! " he said, " why I have but two in all my dominions, and I believe I shall hang one of them the moment I get home." His vices were such as to have been expected in a man of his violent temperament, despotic in a barbarous country, and who in early life had been surrounded by flatterers and dissolute associates. But it would be foreign to the purpose of this work to enter into a discussion of this nature. The Russians date their civilization from his reign ; but a slight glance at the history of some of the early Tzars will show that, in many of the points on which the greatness of his reputation rests, he was anticipated by his predecessors. Darlf and savage as the history of the country is, an attempt at public education had been made, religious toleration and an anxiety to promote commerce existed, and the institution of a code of laws had already occupied their attention. The untimely deaths of some of these princes deprived Russia of monarchs far more benevolent than Peter, men of finer and more generous minds, and, though not so ambitious, quite as anxious for her welfare. Under their sway no such rush at improvement would have been made ; no such influx of foreigners would have taken place ; but, if not so rapidly, at least as surely these sovereigns would have effected quite as much real good. Peter left no code of laws established on the broad principles of justice ; he travelled in England and Holland, but thought only of their navies, and wholly overlooked the great principles of their govern- ments, by which he might have ameliorated the condition of his own. Trial by jury never appears to have attracted his attention. The Tzar, it is true, reigned over a nation of serfs — so did Alfred, and in the 9th instead of the 18th century. The Empress Catherine survived him only two years, dying at the age of thirty- nine. The reduction of the capitation tax was the most popular act of her short reign, and Delille, Baer, and the Bemouillis were the most distinguished members of the Academy of Sciences she established. Peter, the son of Alexis, and grand- son of Peter the Great (by his first wife Eudoxia, who survived Catherine), died of the small-pox at the age of fifteen ; in him the male line of the Romanoffs became extinct. His intellect was good, and, though so young, he gave great promise of being an honour and a blessing to his country. Anne, Duchess of Courland, who followed this youthful sovereign, was daughter of Ivan, half- brother of Peter the Great ; she died in 1740, after reigning ten years. Her chief merit was in advancing the commerce of the country and establishing silk and woollen manufactories — her chief folly, the building a palace of ice, to which she sent a Prince Galitzin, one of her buffoons, and his Avife, to pass the night of their wedding-day, the nuptial couch was also constructed of this cold material, as well as all the furniture, and four cannons which fired several rounds. A war which was prosecuted against the Turks in this reign ended to the disadvantage of Russia, and, as the price of peace, Azoff^, Otchakof, and Mol- davia were given up to the Porte. Intrigues drove Ivan VI., the infant son of the Prinjcess of Brunswick, niece of the Empress Anne, from the throne, and in 1741, Elizabeth, daughter of Peter the Great, took possession of it.
Russia. HISTOKICAL NOTICE. 431
Her reign was one series of wars and intrigues, and wholly unfavourable to the intellectual improvement and progress of the people. The Swedes thought this a favourable moment to recover their ancient possessions, but were obliged to agree to a peace on the basis of that of Nystad. Detesting Frederic for some coarse remark levelled at her mother, Elizabeth made war with Prussia, which lasted from 1753 to 1762, the year of her death. The taste of this empress for architecture greatly contributed to embellish St. Petersburgh, and the Academy of Painting and Sculpture in that capital was instituted by her ; but she was a model of hypocrisy, and, while from feelings of pretended humanity she abolished capital punishments and deplored the miseries her troops suf- fered in the war with Prussia, she established a kind of star chamber in which justice and mercy were unknown. Peter III,, son of the Princess Anne, eldest daughter of Peter the Great, succeeded Elizabeth, and, being a great friend of Frederic, he immediately made peace with Prussia; he also suppressed the secret council established for the examination of political offenders, softened the rigour of military discipline, permitted his nobles to travel, lowered the duties in the Livonian ports, reduced the price of salt, and abated the pressure of usury by the establishment of a loan bank, and instituted other salutary and wise measures. He was, however, of a weak and vacillating disposition, and his tastes were en- tirely Grerman, which amounted to a crime in the eyes of the nobility ; this and the intrigues of his wife, afterwards the Empress Catherine II., whom he grossly neglected, led to his downfal, and he terminated his days in the prison of Ropscha in 1762.
The reign of this extraordinary woman is one of the most remarkable in the Russian history. In the early part of it she interfered in the affairs of Poland, which produced a civil war, and ended in the conquest of that country. In 1769 the Turks declared war, which was at first favourable to their arms ; they were afterwards defeated with great slaughter on the Dniester, and abandoned Choczim. At this period was fought the celebrated action before Tchesme, in which the Turkish fleet was completely destroyed, an achievement that was mainly owing to the gallant conduct of Admirals Elphinstone and Greig, and Lieutenant Dugdale, Englishmen in the Russian service. In another campaign the Russians carried the lines of Perecop, defended by 57,000 Turks and Tartars, and thus obtained possession of the Crimea, and Ro- manzoff gained several victories in the Danubian provinces. These conquests were, however, dearly purchased; the plague passed from the Turks into the Russian armies, and the frightful malady was carried by the troops into the very heart of the country; 800 persons died daily at Moscow, and the disease subsided only with the severity of the winter. It was in this year that the Kalmuck Tartars, who had been upwards of half a century settled near the steppes of the Volga, north of Astrakafi, suddenly, and to the number of 350,000 souls, left the Russian territory for their old haunts on the Chinese border — an affront offered to them by the empress is said to have been the cause
432 HISTORICAL NOTICE Scct. V.
of this extraordinary flight. Every attempt at negotiation having failed, the contest with the Tui'ks was renewed in 1773, and though the Russians again suffered severe losses, Romanzoff brought the Avar to a successful termination, and, hy tlie treaty of peace concluded in 1774, his country obtained the free navigation of the Euxine, the cession of Kilburn, Yenikale, with a tract between the Bug, the Dnieper, and Taganrog. Russia restored her other conquests, and the Turks paid into the Russian Treasury 4,000,000 of rubles towards the ex- penses of the war; also they acknowledged the independence of the Crimea, which in the year 1784 fell altogether into the hands of Russia, as well as the Island of Taman and part of the Kuban. Shortly after this, Catherine and the northern courts, with France, jealous of the British maritime power, brought about a combination against England, which was hastened by the following sin- gular incident. The British minister, fearing that this intrigue was going on, de- sired Potemkin to lay before the empress a memorial that he had drawn up, which the prince promised to do. Of this memorial the French governess of his nieces contrived to possess herself, and, after allowing the French minister to make his notes in refutation of it in the margin, replaced it in Potemkin's pocket, who, ignorant of the circumstance, laid it before Catherine ; when the em- press, conceiving the notes to have been madefy her favourite, formed a league with Sweden and Denmark, and announced her intention of supporting it with her navy. In 1787 she made, in company with Potemkin and an immense suite, her famous progress to the Crimea, and the following year found her once more at war with the Turks ; soon after Finland was invaded by Gustavus III. This contest was settled by a pacification in 1790. In the close of that year Constantinople trembled at the forward movement of the Russians, and the fall of Ismail under Suwaroff, after the ninth assault, closed the war on the 22nd of December. In this extremity Europe combined to save the Porte from destruc- tion, and in 1791 Russia relinquished all the territory she had acquired, except- ing that guaranteed by the treaty of 1784. In these wars with the Ottoman Empire there were destroyed 130,000 Austrians, 200,000 Russians, and 370,000 Turks, in all 660,000 men. About this time the intrigues of Russia, Austria, and Prussia, for the partition of Poland, commenced, and, carried on for several years, were brought to a conclusion by two sieges of Warsaw : in the first Kos- ciusko Avas made prisoner, and in the second the Poles, unassisted by his genius, gave way in that fearful assault which, on the 9th November, 1794, consummated the ruin of Poland as a nation. Catherine's subsequent plans of aggrandisement in Daghestan and the shores of the Caspian were cut short by her death, on the 9th November, 1796. The great talents for governing which the empress possessed are universally admitted ; and, though her energies were principally displayed in carrying out her schemes of foreign conquest, she by no means neglected the in- terior economy of her empire. Her views on all subjects were far more enlarged than those of her predecessors, and upwards of 6800 children were educated at St. Petersburgh at the public expense. Catherine invited Pallas, Eiiler, and
Russia, HISTORICAL NOTICE. 433
Gmelin to survey her territories and describe their characteristics, and requested D' Alembert to undertake the education of her grandson, the Grand Duke Alexander, which he declined. The empress also confirmed the abolition of the secret state inquisition, and, by dividing the college of the empire into separate departments, facilitated the despatch of business, and rendered the administration in each more efficient. With a view to check corruption, she raised the salaries of the govern- ment officers, put down many monopolies of the crown, and issued an ukase, which prevented any proprietor from sending his serfs to the mines, or an}' dis- tant part of the empire, except for agricultural purposes. Catherine purchased the praises of the French philosophers, corresponded with Voltaire and D' Alembert, and complimented Fox by asking him for his bust, which she placed betvveen those of Cicero and Demosthenes.
Catherine, possessed of great beauty in her youth, preserved the traces of it to the end of her life ; in matters of religion she was tolerant from political motives, extravagant in an extraordinary degree, and, with a woman's liberality, paid well those who served her ; and, though there are many acts in her reign which cannot be defended, she did more for the civilization of Russia than any of her predecessors. She was succeeded by her son Paul, whose short reign, to 1801, was not of any great historical importance. At his coronation he decreed a law of heredi- tary succession to the crown in the male line, and afterwards in the female, in- stead of leaving it to the caprice of the reigning Tzar. The emperor declared war against the French in 1799, sent an army into Italy to oppose the repub- lican generals, and through the intervention of England, Suwarolf, who had been banished from the capital by Paul, was recalled, and placed at the head of it. But the campaign in Italy, successful at first, ended unfavourably to the Russian arras — when the emperor suddenly became a great admirer of Bona- parte, and, with the same inconsistency that he exiled SuwarofF, he liberated Kosciusko; subsequently the eccentricity of his actions led to the conclusion that he was of unsound mind. Amongst his ukases was one against the use of shoe-strings and round hats ; and in the number of queer whims which infected his brain was a rage for painting with the most glaring colours the watch-boxes, bridges, and gates throughout the empire. The career of Paul was closed in March 1801, at the castle in St. Petersburgh, where he then resided — it is now used as a School for Engineers. (See Description of St. Petersburgh.)
Alexander, the eldest son of the late emperor, succeeded to the throne, being then twenty-four years of age. In the same year he recalled the Siberian exiles, suppressed the secret inquisition, re-established the power of the senate, founded in 1804 the University of Kharkoft^ and emancipated the Jews. In 1805 the emperor joined the Northern Powers against France, and on the 2nd December the Austro-Kussian army was defeated at Austerlitz. In 1806, Mr. Fox having failed in negotiating a peace between France and Russia, Napoleon overran Prussia, and, Benningsen having evacuated WarsaAv, Murat entered that city on
434 HISTOKICAL NOTICE. Scct. V.
the 28th November. On the 26th December the French were beaten at Pul- towsk, and in February 1807 the severely contested battle of Eylau was fought, each side having three times lost and won, the deciding move being made by Benningsen, who took Konigsberg by assault. On the 28th May, Dantzig capitulated to the French, and on the 14th of June they won the battle of Fried- land ; ten days after Napoleon and Alexander met on a raft moored in the middle of the Niemen, and concluded an armistice, which was a prelude to the treaty of Tilsit, concluded on the 27th July of the same year. Alexander by this act be- came the ally of France, which enabled the French to carry on their aggressive policy in Spain. But the injury inflicted on Russian commerce by Napoleon's continental system against England, and his interference with Alexander's conquest in Finland in 1809, roused that sovereign to a sense of his true interests. He broke with France, and the invasion of Russia by the French was the conse- quence. To prepare for and carry on his defence against this, the emperor made peace with the Porte, and re-established his alliance with Great Britain. The operations which took place during this memorable struggle are so well known, that they will only be briefly adverted to here.
On the 23rd of June, 1812, the French crossed the Niemen and pushed on to Wilna, the Russians carefully retreating, and leaving Napoleon to pass that river on the 28th, and enter the town unopposed. Here the French emperor remained eighteen days, and then, after considerable manoeuvring, marched on Vitepsk, where he fully expected to bring the Russians, under Barclay de Tolly, to action. The Russian general, however, declined; and Napoleon, instead of following the advice of his marshals, and wintering on the Dwina, crossed the Dnieper and marched on Smolensk. On the 16th of August he was once more in front of the Russian grand army near that town ; but the wary and intelligent De Tolly had occupied it only to cover the flight of its inhabitants, and cany off or destroy its magazines ; and on the following morning Napoleon, to his great mortification, learnt that the enemy, in pursuance of his Fabian tactics, was again ofi". Smolensk was now taken by assault, the last inhabitants that re- mained having set fire to it before they left. Up to this time the Russian Commander-in-Chief had been able to adhere to his plan of drawing the French into the country Avithout risking a general engagement until a favourable oppor- tunity should occur — tactics which were not liked by his army ; and Alexander, yielding to the clamour, appointed KutusofF to the command. The battle oi Borodino, sometimes called that of Moskowa, fought on the borders of the govern- ment of that name, on the 1st of September, Avas the result of this change of leaders. The combatants amounted on either side to about 120,000, and the killed and wounded in both to about 80,000. On the 12th Bona- parte again moved forward, his troops by this time nearly famished, and heartily tired of the war, for the day of Borodino had given them a clear idea that the enemy would yield only after a desperate struggle. On Sunday the 13th, the Russian army marched out of the old capital with silent drums and colours furled.
EuSSia. HISTOKICAL NOTICE. 435
by the Kolomna Gate, and left the city to its fate. In the afternoon of Monday the advanced guard of the French army caught the first view of her golden minarets and starry domes, and the Kremlin burst upon their sight. " All this is yours," cried Napoleon, when he first gazed upon the goal of his ambition, and a shout of " Moscow ! Moscow ! " was taken up by the foremost ranks, and carried to the rear of his array. In Moscow they bivouacked the same evening. Ere the night had closed in, their selfish marauding leader arrived at theSmolensko Gate, and then learnt to his astonishment that 300,000 inhabitants had fled, and that the only Russians who remained in the city were the convicts who had been liberated from the gaols, a few of the rabble, and those who were unable to leave it. On Tuesday the 15th September the mortified victor entered Moscow, and took up his residence in the Kremlin ; but here his stay was destined to be short indeed, for on the morning of the 16th it was discovered that a fire, which had at first given but little cause for alarm, could not be restrained — fanned by the wind, it spread rapidly, and consumed the best portion of the city. " The churches," says Labaume, " though covered with iron and lead were destroyed, and with them those graceful steeples which we had seen the night before resplendent in the setting sun ; the hospitals, too, which contained more than 20,000 wounded, soon began to burn — a harrowing and dreadful spectacle — and almost all these poor wretches perished ! A few who still survived were seen crawling, half- burnt, amongst the smoking ruins, while others were groaning under heaps of dead bodies, endeavouring in vain to extricate themselves. The confusion and tumult which ensued when the work of pillage commenced cannot be conceived. Sol- diers, sutlers, galley-slaves, and prostitutes, were seen running through the streets, penetrating into the deserted palaces, and carrying away everything that could gratify their avarice. Some clothed themselves in rich stuffs, silks, and costly furs ; others dressed themselves in women's pelisses ; and even the galley-slaves concealed their rags under the most splendid court dresses ; the rest crowded to the cellars, and, forcing open the doors, drank the wine and carried off an im- mense booty. This horrible pillage was not confined to the deserted houses alone, but extended to the few which were inhabited, and soon the eagerness and wantonness of the plunderers caused devastations which almost equalled those occasioned by the conflagration. '' Palaces and temples," writes Karamsin, " monuments of art and miracles of luxury, the remains of past ages and those which had been the creation of yesterday; the tombs of ancestors and the nursery cradles of the present generation were indiscriminately destroyed, nothing was left of Moscow save the remembrance of the city, and the deep resolution to avenge its fate." And how the cause ol all these horrors conducted himself let his own countryman tell.
" Towards evening," writes Labaume, " when Napoleon no longer thought himself safe in a city the ruin of which seemed inevitable, he left the Kremlin, and established himself, with his suite, in the Castle of Peterskoi. When I saw him pass by, I could not, without abhorrence, behold the chief of this barbarous
436 HISTORICAL NOTICE. Scct. V.
expedition, who evidently endeavoured to escape the decided testimony of public indignation by seeking the darkest road ; he sought it, however, in vain ; on every side the flames seemed to pursue him, and their horrible glare, flashing on his guilty head, reminded me of the torches of the Eumenides pursuing their victims." On the 20th Napoleon returned to the Kremlin, and soon tried to negotiate with KutusofF, who replied that no treaty could be entered into so long as A foreigner remained within the frontier. The emperor then requested that he would forward a letter to Alexander. " I will do that," said the Russian general, " provided the Avord peace is not in the letter." To a third proposition KutusofF replied that it was not the time to treat or enter into an armistice, as the Russians were just about to open the campaign. At length, on the 19th of October, after a stay of thirty-four days. Napoleon left Moscow v/ith his army, consisting of 120,000 men, and 550 pieces of cannon, a vast amount of plunder, and a countless host of camp followers. And now the picture of the advance was to be reversed. Murat was defeated at Malo-Yarowslavitz on the 24th, and an unsuccessful stand Avas made at Viasma on the 3rd of November. On the 6th a winter peculiarly early and severe, even for Russia, set in — the thermometer sank 18° — the wind blew furiously — and the soldiers, vainly strug- gling with the eddying snow, which drove against them with the violence of a whu'lwind, could no longer distinguish their road, and, falling into the ditches • by the side, there found a grave. Others crawled on, badly clothed, with no- thing to eat or drink, frost-bitten, and groaning with pain. What scenes did not the retreat then present ! — discipline was gone — the soldier no longer obeyed his ofl[icer ; disbanded, they spread themselves right and left in search of food, and, as the horses fell, fought for their mangled carcasses, and devoured them raw^ike dogs — many remained by the dying embers of the bivouac fire, and as these expired, an insensibility crept over them which soon became the sleep of death — thus thousands perished. On the 9th of November Napoleon reached Smo- lensk, and remained till the 15th, when he set out for Krasnoe. From this time to the 26th and 27th, when the French crossed the Beresina, all was utter and hopeless confusion ; and in the pJtssage of that river the wretched remnant of their once-powerful army was nearly annihilated — the exact extent of their loss was never known, but a Russian account states that 36,000 bodies were found in the river alone, and burnt after the thaw. On the 5th of December Napoleon deserted the survivors. On the 10th he reached Warsaw, and, on the night of the 18th, his capital and the Tuileries, by the back-door. The army that had too well and enthusiastically served him was disposed of as follows : —
Slain in fight 125,000
Died from fatigue, hunger, and the severity of the climate . 132,000 Prisoners 193,000
450,000 The remains of the grand army which escaped the general wreck (independent
BuSSia. HISTOEICAL NOTICE. '137
of the two auxiliary armies of Austria and Prussia, which knew little of the
horrors of the retreat) was about 40,000 men, of whom it is said scarcely 10,000
were Frenchmen. Thus ended the greatest military catastrophe that ever befell
an army in either ancient or modern times, and which, though on a much smaller
scale, was, alas ! realized to Englishmen in the gorges and ravines of the Khoord
Cabul. To return to Napoleon. Europe was now exasperated, and combined
against him ; and though in the following spring he gained the battles of Lutzen
and Bautzen, and on the 27th of August that of Dresden, the wings of his eagles
were pinioned on the 18th of October of the same year on the field of Leipsic.
On the Rhine the Allies offered him peace and the empire of France, which he
was fool enough to refuse, and on the 31st of March, 1814, Alexander had the
satisfaction of marching into Paris at the head of his troops. After the general
peace in 1815 the emperor devoted himself to the internal improvement of his
country, making many judicious alterations in the government, in which he
evinced much liberality of feeling. He had good abilities, but not brilliant
talent, and his greatness of mind was not fully developed till the invasion of his
country by the French ; this aroused all his energies, and exhibited him to the
world conducting himself with consummate discretion and unflinching steadiness
of purpose in that alarming crisis. His disposition was kind and generous, his
manners mild and amiable, and his moderation prevented him fi'om ever abusing
his unlimited power. Under the influence of his mother, and the empress,
the levity and extravagance of the court were materially repressed.
Alexander, attended to the last by his wife, died of erysipelas, in a small and
humble dwelling near Taganrog, when on a tour of inspection through the
southern provinces of his empire. He left a noble example, not only to
his country, but to his class ; when the news of his death spread over his vast
dominions, he was universally deplored, and the murmur of regret in other
countries responded to the grief of Russia. He was succeeded by Nicholas I.,
the present emperor, on the 25th of December, 1825, Constantino, his elder
brother, having resigned the crown in his favour.
438
ROUTE 93. LONDON TO ST. PETERSBURGH. Sect V
ROUTES TO AND THROUGH RUSSIA.
ROUTE 93.
LONDON TO ST. PETEKSBUKGH, Br HAMBURGH, LUBECK, AND CRONSTADT.
From May to October the most expe- ditious mode of proceeding from Lon- don to St. Petersburg}! is by Ham- burgh and Lubeck, and thence by the Baltic steamer to Cronstadt and the Russian capital. To the tourist, how- ever, who has his time at his own dis- posal, we do not recommend this most uninteresting route, but that by Kiel, Copenhagen, Gottenburg, Stockholm, and Finland ; he will thus traverse Sweden, one of the most interesting countries in Europe, and have the choice of returning either by Berlin, Warsaw, or Odessa ; or, if absolutely pressed for time, by the I3altic. Assum- ing, however, that time is an object, and that the traveller adopts the route by Lubeck and the Baltic, it will be desirable, as the Lubeck boats sail from Travemiinde every Tuesday morning, that he should leave London by the Hamburgh steamer of Friday, having first procured either a Russian passport, or one from the Foreign Office with a Russian vise.
At Hamburgh it will be well to take a look at the vehicle and cattle which are to convey him to Lubeck ; also to have a clear understanding with the driver that he takes the best road ; if not, the chances are that he will select the old, that is the bad one, with a view of making a call on some friend, in which case it is certain he will, on the plea of feeding his beasts, dawdle away a couple of hours. The distance between Hamburgh and Lubeck is 40 miles. On arriving there no time should be lost in getting the passport vise by the Russian consul, and pro- ceeding to the steamer at Travemiinde, 10 miles off, to secure a berth, for
these vessels are generally inconve- niently crowded. The two boats now plying on this station are the Nicholas the First and the Alexander; the former, of 800 tons burden, was launched in 1839. The average pas- sage from London to Hamburgh is about 54 hours, from Travemiinde to Cronstadt about 84 hours ; but these boats, particularly the Alexan- der, is sometimes 100 hours in accom- plishing it, and has been as long as four or five days. The distance from Lubeck to St. Petersburgh is rather over 700 miles. (For further information on steamboats see preliminary remarks.)
The company on board the Baltic steamers is of all nations and languages, and if the weather be fine much amuse- ment and possibly information may be extracted from a society in which is comprised specimens of every Eu- ropean nation, and when these are brought together at the dinner hour the traveller may also improve his knowledge of foreign languages, for the great cabin is a miniature Babel — Eng- lish, French, and German are, how- ever, the prevailing tongues ; and the soft-flowing Russ will probably, for the first time, break upon the ear in de- lightful cox^trast to the guttural Ger- man, the tapid accented French, and the hissing English. The Island of Riigen, celebrated as that on which the great Gustavus landed those glorious cohorts which were never surpassed in valour, or equalled in piety and disci- pline, is usually passed in the night — one that the tourist may as well look out upon, for it is soon to be exchanged for that perpetual twilight which is so striking in these northern latitudes. Having passed Riigen, the islands of Oland and Gothland on the Swedish coast are seen in clear weather ; and, supposing the traveller to have left Travemiinde on the Tuesday after-
1 Admiralty
2 Winter FaJaeC'
3 Hermitiufe' + Thea.tre
5 Garble Pala^^
6 Statute of Peter &T 1 ifcncUe JfoiutC'
8 -^-o^ Oiurctv
9 CohumTvofAleJcT
10 .S^c?Z flfHtatMiyor H KazoTV Church'
13 JPaLice of Gr^^uke Michael
13 -En^ineerj
14 &cu!tinoi Dvor
15 Theatre
le ly^aryif Jlo^pital
17 S^Ccuharin^Ino't.^
18 CoTTLntercuil £anic IS BoUhoi Theatre
20 auLi-ch ofS*Xidwhuf
31 Church of the Jntcrceso^ion.
22 ^^<i 6"^^
'•iumpTial ^rch. Xotci des' Mines 'inland. £arrachf ';^ Corps of Cadets \cadeniy of Arts Zotnanzow^ ObeUsJc
Corps of Cadets tcad.^of Sciences. Museu^m/. b Obsen-atary
81 EaxhoJiffc
32 OjuTtonv Souse
34- Teter the &rca£s Wooden. JTouse/ 36 IRussianAcad£.ni^
36 Botanical- &ard.en/
37 NavaZ Hospital/
yi
438 ROUTE 93. — LONDON TO ST. PETERSBURGH. Sect V
ROUTES TO AND THROUGH RUSSIA.
ROUTE 93.
LONDON TO ST. PETERSBURGH, BY HAMBURGH, LUBECK, AND CRONSTADT.
From May to Octot)er the most expe- ditious mode of proceeding from Lon- don to St. Petersburgh is by Ham- burgh and Lubeck, and thence by the Baltic steamer to Cronstadt and the Russian capital. To the tourist, how- ever, Avho has his time at his own dis- posal, we do not recommend this most uninteresting route, but that by Kiel, Copenhagen, Grottenburg, Stockholm, and Finland ; he will thus traverse Sweden, one of the most interesting countries in Europe, and have the choice of returning either by Berlin, Warsaw, or Odessa ; or, if absolutely pressed for time, by the Baltic. Assum- ing, however, that time is an object, and that the traveller adopts the route by Lubeck and the Baltic, it will be desirable, as the Lubeck boats sail from Travemiinde every Tuesday morning, that he should leave London by the Hamburgh steamer of Friday, having first procured either a Russian passport, or one from the Foreign Office with a Russian vise.
At Hamburgh it will be well to take a look at the vehicle and cattle which are to convey him to Lubeck ; also to have a clear understanding with the driver that he takes the best road ; if not, the chances are that he will select the old, that is the bad one, with a view of making a call on some friend, in which case it is certain he will, on the plea of feeding his beasts, dawdle away a couple of hours. The distance between Hamburgh and Lubeck is 40 miles. On arriving there no time should be lost in getting the passport vise by the Russian consul, and pro- ceeding to the steamer at Travemiinde, 10 miles off, to secure a berth, for
these vessels are generally inconve- niently crowded. The two boats now plying on this station are the Nicholas the First and the Alexander; the former, of 800 tons burden, was launched in 1839. The average pas- sage from London to Hamburgh is about 54 hours, from Travemiinde to Cronstadt about 84 hours ; but these boats, particularly the Alexan' der, is sometimes 100 hours in accom- plishing it, and has been as long as four or five days. The distance from Lubeck to St. Petersburgh is rather over 700 miles. (For further information on steamboats see preliminary remarks.)
The company on board the Baltic steamers is of all nations and languages, and if the weather be fine much amuse- ment and possibly information may be extracted from a society in which is comprised specimens of every Eu- ropean nation, and when these are brought together at the dinner hour the traveller may also improve his knowledge of foreign languages, for the great cabin is a miniature Babel — Eng- lish, French, and German are, how- ever, the prevailing tongues ; and the soft-flowing Russ will probably, for the first time, break upon the ear in de- lightful contrast to the guttural Grer- man, the tapid accented French, and the hissing English. The Island of Riigen, celebrated as that on which the great Grustavus landed those glorious cohorts which were never surpassed in valour, or equalled in piety and disci- pline, is usually passed in the night — one that the tourist may as well look out upon, for it is soon to be exchanged for that perpetual twilight which is so striking in these northern latitudes. Having passed Riigen, the islands of Oland and Grothland on the Swedish coast are seen in clear weather ; and, supposing the traveller to have left Travemiinde on the Tuesday after-
i\
I
Map to tlie Handbook for l^oithem Euiope .
J.iC. n'alktrSaJp
f^UsluJ. bvJohjiXvjTuy.ALbemiirU Scre,uJ849.
Russia.
ROUTE 93. CEONSTADT.
439
noon, he will, in a favourable run, be in the Gulf of Finland on Thursday night, and the following morning off Reval. Laud will scarcely be lost sight of during this day, and both shores of the gulf are frequently visible at the same time, though too distant to enable one to perceive any great difference in the characteristics of either coast. The Baltic, m the summer, is a lively sea to traverse, in a steamboat more especially ; the traveller is never many hours with- out seeing land; and some island which marks the progress of the vessel, to look at or to look for, is a never failing subject of interest ; the number of ships, too, with their white sails, are gene- rally numerous, and help to break the monotony of a sea view and the voyage. At midnight onFriday, or, if the elements have not been courteous, at sunrise on Saturday, the rocks and fortifications of Cronstadt meet the anxious eye, and, the paddles being stopped, a boat from the guard-ship boards the packet ; in this are two or three official gentlemen, who having examined the captain's papers, the vessel is allowed to proceed, and in half an hour she comes to anchor off Cronstadt.
Here the vessel is again boarded, not however by two or three naval officers, but two or three boat-loads of police and custom-house officers, and soldiers, who take possession of the ship and the luggage, which is brought upon deck and ticketed with the word unexamined, a number being added to each article ; and in this manner two or three, and sometimes four, hours are consumed in the most tantalizing and disagreeable way, for the deck is encumbered with the lug- gage and a small army, and the cabin by officers examining the passports, so that it is difficult to find a seat or a corner of a table at liberty. At length the luggage is j^lombe, the passports are examined, and the packet is again steaming up the gulf and the Neva, and in two hours she is at her moor- ings at the English quay in the very
heart of the Venice of the North, St. Petersburgh. It is fortunate for tra- vellers when they reach the capital without the preliminary annoyance of changing vessels at Cronstadt, for it sometimes happens that the steamer discharges them into a smaller one, the IIoscow, which plies between that town and St. Petersburgh, and the formali- ties of the police are not calculated to prepare the mind for other disagree- ables. On arriving at Cronstadt, the officers of this department not only eX' amine the passports, but sometimes put a series of questions to the new arrival which are as inquisitive as those of a commissioner of income tax ; but it will be as well for the person questioned to remember that he is in Russia, not at the Tower stairs, and conform with a good grace to what he cannot avert. Thus, if the querist should ask him where he was born 1 he had better not reply " Under a gooseberry bush," or remain indignantly mute, but state the place. Again, if he is asked why he has come to Russia, he had better not say, "to initiate you into the advan- tages of a house of commons," but to see the emperor, or the Kremlin, or anj' other sensible reason. Even a cus- tom-house officer is sometimes softened with a civil speech.
Should the traveller be an ardent ad- mirer of dockyards and fortifications, and land at Cronstadt instead of pro- ceeding direct to St. Petersburgh, he will find the business of the custom- house is conducted with a degree of formality and slowness which no one who has not experienced it can duly understand.
Cronstadt, which has with its garri- son about 10,000 inhabitants, may be considered as the water-gate of St. Petersburgh, for here most ships coming from seaward anchor ; the smaller ves- sels run up to the mouth of the Neva, but the larger stop here to discharge a part of their cargo before going further, or they discharge it altogether into the warehouses that belong to the merchants
440
EOUTE 93. CRONSTADT.
Sect. V.
of St. Petersburgh. Here is also the chief station of the Russian fleet, the chief custom-house, and the harbour for vessels of war, which will contain about thirty ships, and is protected by a mole, 450 fathoms in length, from the violence of the waves. Near this lies the middle haven, destined for the fitting out of ships of war, for at St. Petersburgh only the hulls of vessels are built, and they are then with infinite labour trans- ported on camels over the shallow bay of Cronstadt to this haven, to be finished and fully equipped. Further to the W. lies the merchants' harbour, capable of containing a thousand vessels, and there- fore the most interesting and animated of the three. This harbour is protected on the N.W. by a bastion constructed of granite blocks, and on this is the most agreeable promenade of Cronstadt. From the Middle and the Merchants' Harbour two great canals run into the interior of the city. The quays on these canals, as well as those of the harbour, are also of granite, and in a style of magnificence such as scarcely any other commercial city can boast of; they were erected by the present em- peror, who has done more for Cron- stadt than any other Russian sovereign since the days of Peter the Great. The canal running from the Middle Harbour, begun bj^ that extraordinary man and fin- ished by the Empress Elizabeth, brings up the men-of-war to the dock for repair. It will admit ten large ships at once. The whole basin, which is built with granite, can, by means of a steam en- gine, be laid dry in two days, and filled again within six hours.
The fortifications of Cronstadt are very extensive ; they were partly erected by Peter the Great, who soon became aware that this spot must be the key and outwork for the defence of his capital. He built the fort of Kronslott, and commenced one on the island itself. Succeeding governments completed these, and Paul I., in pro- viding the rock of Riesbank with forti- fications, under whose cannon any ves-
sel must pass to enter the bay, seemed to have perfected the defences of the place ; some batteries have, however, since then been erected by a French- man in the Russian service.
There are two navigable approaches to the Neva; the northern is by nature difficult on account of the sand-banks, and might be made inaccessible by the sinking of vessels filled with stones. The southern arm, though nearly seven versts broad, has an exceedingly nar- row channel close to the island of Cron- stadt, and this is enfiladed by the guns on the works.
When the armed delegates of Peter the Great drove off the Swedes in 1703, the island on which Cronstadt is situ- ated changed its name from Retusari, or Rat Island, to that of Kotlinoi OstroiF, or Kettle Island, and for the following reason:— the Swedes in re- treating, like good soldiers, left nothing behind them but a great camp kettle, which the victorious Russians reared in triumph on a pole as a trophy of vic- tory and immediately baptized the island after it. The Bay of Cronstadt is shallow, its average depth scarcely reaching twelve feet ; the Neva is still more so in many parts of its course, and at the bar the average depth does not exceed nine feet. A severe penalty is enacted against any one attempting to take soundings in the Neva. The channel is carefully marked out by poles projecting above the water. A multitude of small vessels and steam- boats, several of them the property of Mr. Baird, the great iron founder at St. Petersburgh, which start at stated hours, maintain a communication with the capital. When a favourable wind brings up a whole fleet of 100 or more large vessels from the sea, or when the Russian fleet is preparing for a cruise, the bay and river is very animated, and alive with steamers and sailing vessels of every description. In winter, that is, nearly six entire months, the Bay of Cronstadt is as lifeless as a desert ; the whole surface is then frozen to one
Russia.
ROUTE 93. CRONSTADT.
441
solid level broken only by three roads — one to St. Petersburgli, one to Ora- nienbaum, and a third to Sestrabek. These roads are indicated by signal- posts, and on that to St. Petersburgh, which is about 30 versts long, is a sta- tion built for rest and refreshment. In former times this crystal field was often the scene of bloody strife, and Russian history enumerates many a battle fought on the icy floor, over the heads of the fishes and seals.
During the summer there is life at Cronstadt, for trade is then active, and "the population is augmented by very nearly 30,000 workmen, sailors, sol- diers, and merchants — Prussian, Grer- man, and English ; but the only ob- jects which can intefest a stranger are the fortifications, harbours, canals, and dock's^' everything else wears an ordi- nary appearance ; neither the churches nor the houses have anything remark- able in them, and the latter are onl}^ of one story, at least for the most part. Besides the Russian, there is an Eng- lish, German, Lutheran, and Roman Catholic church, a club for the nobility, a bazaar, barrncks, hospitals, cadet schools, and other buildings for the pub- lic service. In the summer garden of the Admiralty are some shrubs, said to have been planted by Peter the Great, bat eight towns in Russia show similar proofs of his horticultural in- dustry.
It is usual in Russia, as well as in England and other countries, that a foreigner should have special permission to see the dockyards, the mint, and other public establishments ; an order will be required to see Cronstadt, or rather the dockyards, &c., and an Eng- lishman will have less diificulty in ob- taining access to things under taboo in this country than a traveller of any other nation. But, as it has been be- fore remarked, unless the new comer has a mania for inspecting and verifying these matters, he will do well to pro- ceed with the steamer, and get quietly established at his hostel in the capital ;
from thence he can with great ease proceed to Cronstadt by steamer, re- turning at night, and in this way a visit to this seaport will form an agree- able excursion. We will, therefore, suppose that he takes our advice, and, having answered civilly all the ques- tions put to him by the police authori- ties who come on board at Cronstadt, is steaming up the Neva to the great object of his voyage ; this will occupy from two to three hours, and the scenery during the trajet is not distin- guished in any way for beauty. On the right bank from Cronstadt is se;>n the town of Oranienbaum^ and a little further on the giTHed towers and parl^ of ^eterhpff ; these are situated on a small acclivity ; but after they are passed the banks again become low, and present, from a distance, the only fea- ture of the Finnish shores, interminably flat. At length a golden spot, sparkling in sunshine, and a tall and taper spire, shooting like a needle to the sky, and rising apparently from the water, are seen, and these are the first indica- tions which prove that the great city is indeed before the traveller. This golden spot is the gilded dome of the Isaac Church, which may, it is said, be^en in fine weather from Cronstadt, a dis- tance of sixteen n\ile§ — the spire that of the Admiralty, and both of them are to be descried from every approach to the capital ; for whether St. Peters- burgh has been sought, as it was by us, by long journeying through boundless forests, or flat and uninteresting plains, or by the waters of the Baltic, these architectural elevations first appear on the horizon to greet the traveller on his arrival in the city of the Tzar. This seems, however, scarcely to emerge from the water, so low is the shallow tablet of land on which it rests, and it is only when the Podzonoi Ostrof and the tallow and other warehouses are left behind that the great beauty and features of the city present themselves. The Greek churches of mosquelike form, the profusion of cupola and mina-
442
ROUTE 93. ST. PETERSBUEGH.
Sect. V.
ret, with their treble domes painted "blue with silver stars, or green with gold stars, and the various gilt spires starting at intervals from the low city, give it "an air perfectly distinct from any other European capital. On arriving at the English quay, the view is highly imposing ; beyond it on the right is the long facade of the Admiralty, the column of Alexander, and a portion of the Winter Palace, in front the great bridge, and on the left the citadel, pre- senting a cotij) cVoeil of unexampled ar- chitectural magnificence, the river being closed in by long quays constructed of blocks of red granite of massiA^e pro- portions. Such is the approach to St. Petersburgh, the real and peculiar beauty of wliich consists in thus sail- ing apparently on the bosom of the Baltic into a city of palaces. Before passengers are permitted to land there is a fresh inspection of passports, the luggage is brought on shore in the course of an hour and deposited at the searching-house on the English quay. Having gone through this at all times disagreeable ordeal, and repacked, with . more or less equanimity, his trunk and carpet-bag, the traveller had better retire without any further delay to Mrs. Wil- son's or the MissBensons' boarding-house hard by, or, if they are full, to any other hotel they may recommend, and per- form the most grateful of all offices after a journey or a voyage — his ablutions ; this done, he cannot do better than seat himself in a chair facing the Neva — if he has the luck to get such a look out — and consult the preliminary information given at the commencement of this sec- tion of the Hand-book, which will put him av fait as to the proper mode of pro- ceeding, before he undertakes to lionize the place; moreover, animmediate plunge into sight-seeing is not the best method of renovating the exhausted wayfarer. The first move he should make after this will be to look up his billet- de-re- sidence and a job carriage or droshky. These having been duly cared for, the impatient visitor should proceed with
his lacquey-de-place to the Admiralty, and ascend the tower of that immense building.
When travelling, it was always our habit to climb the church tower, or some other, in every great town we came to, with a view, not only of ob- taining a splendid panoramic coup cVceii, but of acquiring a to[)Ographical knowledge of the place, which greatly assisted our perambulations, and en- abled us to comprehend much more easily the plan of the city itself when laid before us in the shape of a map. For this purpose there is no place so well suited at St. Petersburgh as the tower in question, for from it the principal streets diverge. The edifice is also provided with galleries, and the views from them are very different from those in any other city. We will therefore assume that the spectator has reached one of these galleries, and looking N. across the Strelka Point, at which the little Neva diverges from the main stream, the island to the W.^ formed by these two and the Gulf of Finland, is called the Vassiliefskoi Ostrof, or Basilius Island, and ofi it is seen the Exchange, the Academy of Sciences, Arts, and Corps of Cadets. On the N., and nearly facing the tower, is the Citadel, and behind it to the N. and W. are the islands of Aptc k rskoi, Kamennoi, Petrofskoi, Krestofskoi, and Elaghinskoi, forming the Peter- burghskaia Storona, or Peter burgh side^ To the E. of the Great Nef ka and the northern bank of the Neva are barracks, and factories, and various military hospitals, the inhabitants of which district are chiefly soldiers, gar- deners, and manufacturers ; it is, how- ever, rapidly extending, for nowhere else in St. Petersburgh have building speculations gone on to a greater ex- tent. The communication between the mainland and these islands is limited to three bridges, the Isaiic, just below the Admiralty, the Troitzkoi, or Tri- nity, from the Champ-de-Mars, and the Voskresenskoi, or Sunday, from a point
Skvv^ 4i*ti- ^'tdu**^ jn 9^if lijuUt^ j>v 4^'%^^
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considerably to the E. of the Summer Gardens ; the islands themselves com- municate with one another hy eight bridges. Ferry boats also are con- stantly plying, especially on the Great Neva, These are to be found grouped round almost all the flights of steps which lead from the splendid quays to the water's edge — strangely built and fantastically painted, with uncouth shapes, and figures in red and yellow, they are unlike the boats of any other country, save that their unusual length reminds one somewhat of the gon- dolas of Venice, though they want the delicately tapering extremities and bright steel beaks of those barques of the Italian lagunes, as well as the wondrous skill of the gondoliers.
On the islands, as well as in every otlier quarter of the city, may be des- cried the watch-towerSj from which strict look-out is kept day and night for fires. They are lofty circular build- ings, with a curious iron apparatus projecting many feet above them, de- signed for making signals to show in what part of the town the fire has bro- ken out. This is done by hanging out balls by day, and lanterns by night, varying their number and arrangement according to the situation of the con- flagration. These towers are the best places for obtaining views of many parts of the capital, and no difficulty is made (at least none which a ruble will not overcome) if you wish to ascend any of them. We never passed one of these buildings without seeing the watchman walking his slow and constant round. In a city built so much of timber as St. Petersburgh, and where whole rooms are filled with wood for the winter's fuel, a fire spreads with the speed of lightning, and the destruction caused both to life and property is fearful. The build- ing of wooden houses in St. Petersburgh has been forbidden for some time past, in consequence of the risk of fire.
The stranger will remark in many of the Petersburgh squares curious-Tooking Circular buildings with a low parapet
wall of stone, and a roof supported on iron piTlari resting on this wall. These are public fire-places for the accommodation of coachmen and servants, who are obliged to wait during the intense cold of the winter nights, many of Avhom had been frozen to death previous to the erection of these places of refuge. A movable iron shutter, sliding m a groove cut in the parapet wall, protects those withm from the cutting wind ; and though these dwarfish buildings are by no means ornamental when situated, as they freqiiently are, immediately in front of some superb palace or theatre, their utility amply compensates for their unprepossessing appearance.
But to return to the topography of the city. South of the Admiralty the most important part of the city, the Bolshaia Storona, or Great Side, presents itself, stretching along that bank of the Neva which for nearly four miles pursues a south-westerly course. The Great Side comprises by far the most important portion of the capital, for here reside the court, the nobility, and more than half the population. The closely built masses of this, the Bolshaia Storona — closely built in comparison with the other quarters of the city — are divided into three semicircular divisions by the Moika, the St. Catharina, and the Fon- tanka canals, Avhich divisions are called the First, Second, and Third Admiralty Sections, and these are intersected by three principal streets radiating from the Admiralty, the Neva Perspective (Nevskoi-Prospekt), the Peas Street (Gorokhovaia Oulitza), and the Resur- rection Perspective (Vosnosenskoi Pro- spekt). As these streets thus di- verge from the Admiralty, a person may, with the aid of a telescope, see what is going on at their remote ex- tremities. The direction of these three great thoroughfares and the canals de- termine that of most of the other streets, of which the most remarkable are the Great and Little Morskaia, the Great and Little Millionava, the Meshtshan- skaia, and the Ssattovaia or Garden
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Street ; all the streets are, without ex- ception, broad and convenient, blind alleys and nai'row lanes being wholly- unknown ; they are classed indeed in prospeJcts, oulitzi, and ^;ere«^o^5 or cross streets, but even these pereuloks would be thought in most continental towns quite spacious enough for main streets ; every street has two names, a German and a Russian. Beyond the Fontanka, along the banks of which is ranged a succession of palaces, lie the more remote portions of the city, which merge by degrees in the swamps of Ingermanland. To the E. on the right bank of the Neva are the villages of the Great and Little Okhta, and these, with the suburbs on the Ligof ka and Zaganodnoi canals, though peopled by Yamstchiks, Plotniks, and Mujiks, bear no resemblance to the wretched abodes of poverty in most European cities, for the poor are nearly all in a conditionof dependence, and, while they are, as serfs, unable to improve their condition, are preserved from the ex- tremes of destitution, which is too fre- quently the lot of the free labourer on the continent. The front of the Admi- ralty, towards the vast open space of the same name, is nearly half an Eng. m. in length, and its two sides, at right angles to it and running down to the river, are 650 Eng. feet ; one of these sides faces the Winter Palace, the other the Isak Platz and the Senate House. The tower on which the visitor is perched stands immediately in the cen- tre of the Admiralty fa9ade, towards the S., and from its great height and the peculiar arrangement of the streets, to which we have just adverted, the tapering gilded spire of the building and its glittering vane, a ship in full sail, are visible from the most distant parts of the city ; the effect of this light and graceful spire is very pleasing, but the gallery at its base is greatly disfigured by some emblematical figures in plaster, which are clustered thick about it. Near the principal entrance are some gigantic figures, also in brick
and plaster, the bricks being discernible which are the reverse of ornamental. These figures are emblem.atical of Russia's power and strength ; one of the groups is intended to represent Peter the Great receiving a trident from the hands of Neptune. A considerable por- tion of the Admiralty is devoted to school-rooms for naval cadets, many of whom may be observed promenading in all the youthful pride of cocked hats, swords, spurs, and tight waists ! ! The model room is well worthy of inspec- tion. But we have descended from our look-out too soon, and mustreascend to complete our survey of that portion of the city lying contiguous to the Admi- ralty itself. Close to it the eye looks down on the dockyard below, in which lie prostrate the pride of theVologda and Kostroma forests, and mighty ships are growing into life under the busy hands of SAvarms of workmen — when one of these is launched, the pageant seen from hence must be highly interesting. On the S. front of the building is the noble Ploschad, or square, called after it, and at either end that of Peter and of the Court, round which are grouped the chief buildings of the capital; amongst these are the Hotel de I'Etat Major, whence Russia's million of soldiers re- ceive their orders, the Senate House, and the Holy Synod, in which the temporal and spiritual concerns of a hundred nations are discussed and de- termined. To the right and at a short distance are the "War Office and the Isak Church ; in the former a thousand pens ply their nibs in the service of Mars and the emperor, and in the latter is a profusion of columns, each of colossal magnitude. On the left, and skirting the river, is the mighty Winter Palace ; in the corner of which dwells the great man to whom so vast a portion of the human race look up with hope and anxiety, and whose name is prized and dreaded beyond any other over a territory larger than that of any sove- reign on the surface of the globe. The length of the open spaces, bordered by
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the public buildings just mentioned, is not ' much less than an Eng. mile ; at one extremity, near the Senate and the Synod, stands the colossal eques- trian statue of Peter the Great, while the other is gracefully ornamented by the smooth and polished monolith raised to the memory of the late Em- peror Alexander, one of the most ami- able of mankind. Hurrying to and fro, but never crowding these immense expanses of pavement, may be seen at every hour of the day the equipages of field-marshals, generals, governors, and courtiers, the heads of the Church and State, metropolitan senators, bishops, and judges ; priestly processions, mili- tary parades, and funeral trains; and should the spectator tire of the moving panorama on this side, Ke has but to turn his telescope towards the N., and. bring within its field one of a totally different character : the quays and the Neva are as much animated by shipping as the ploschads are by carriages and four, and the river and canals by pass- ing gondolas and boats. But, beautiful, regular, and vast as this view of St, Petersburgh really is, the traveller will look in vain for anything approaching the picturesque. No buildings are raised above the rest; masses of architecture, worthy of mountains for their pedestals, are ranged side by side in endless lines, and the eye, nowhere gratified either by elevation or grouping, wanders un- satisfied over a monotonous sea of un- dulating palaces, vainly seeking a point of antiquity or shade on which to re- pose. This is particularly obvious in winter, when streets, river, and houses are all covered with one universal snow. In spring, when the sun re- moves the pale shroud from the earth and the waters, the lively green of the painted roofs and the azure star-span- gled cupolas of the churches enable the eye again to revel in the long untasted enjoyment of colour, and the river gaily mirrors the palaces that grace its banks. No one can be said to have seen Con- stantinople in all her beauty who has
not gazed on that city from the Seras- kier's Tower ; and no one can have a just opinion of the daring position of St. Petersburgh who has not mounted one of these, her artificial heights, and viewed the immense body of waters in which she floats like a bark overladen with precious goods, while the waves, as if maddened by the long imprison- ment of winter, seem as if, deriding her false foundations, they would overturn in a few hours that which the will of man had with such untiring labour and energy raised, seemingly in defiance of the Avill of Heaven. When a S.W. wind is lifting the Gulf furiously towards the city, and the Neva, re- joicing in its strength, is dashing along the quays and tossing to and fro the vessels moored close to them, it requires no further evidence to show the stranger what might be the fate of the thou- sands who inhabit it. The traveller's at- tention is called to a mark on some of the houses in the principal streets — to this point the water rose in the calamitous in- undation of 1824. Itis remarkable that Peter should have selected this site for his capital. Placed almost on the verge of the arctic regions, and at the very extremity of the Russian dominions ; its soil a morass; its river too shallow to be ever made navigable for vessels of any con- siderable burthen ; the country round a marshy plain, which, even now that industry and skill have succeeded in reclaiming it to cultivation, hardly re- pays the labour expended upon it ; and a winter that locks up all enterprise by sea and land for well nigh half the year, it really does appear almost in- explicable what could have induced that extraordinary being, whose name the city bears, to have pitched upon this spot. But from his stern resolve he did not flinch until the deep stillness of the forest, trodden only by the Finnish hunter, was changed to the crowded and populous city, and the waters of the Neva, spread far and wide over their shallow and marshy bed, reflected the
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long line of rising buildings that en- circled his log-built palaces.
It was remarked to us by an English resident that larger sums had been ex- pended underground than above in St. Petersburgh, alluding to the necessity of constructing every building on piles, without which it would sink to the an- tipodes. This is, in fact, the chief rea- son why buildings are so costly to erect, for before one can hope to rear any edifice the architect must construct a strong scaffolding under the earth to sustain it. Such is the pedestal on which stands the citadel with all its walls, and even the quays along the river side, the foot pavements, and the canal wharfs. The foundations of the Izak Church cost a million of rubles. But even these precautions fail some- times to ensure safety ; after the inun- dation in 1824 the walls in many houses burst asunder ; the steps leading up to the English palace on the Peter- hof road were separated from the main building; the blocks of granite on the quays have settled more or less, and the streets in spring may be almost said to approach a state of solution — five and even six successive tiers of piles are driven, to give the requisite degree of firmness.
With such a boggy and treacherous soil as this, the necessity for the con- struction of plenty of canals was self- evident ; not simply for the purpose of conveying merchandise, but also to effect a proper drainage. Exclusive of the canal or ditch which encircles the entire city, or rather that portion of it which is built on the mainland, there are the three canals already mentioned ; namely, the Moika, Catherina, and Fontanka. The Fontanka communi- cates at either extremity with the Neva on the E., near the Troitska bridge, and on the W. opposite the southern point of the Vassili Ostroff. These are there again connected by numerous smaller branch canals, as the Nicolai, the Kruscova, and others, while the Zagarodnoi canal forms the southern
boundary of the city, joining the river on the one side near the Nevskoi mo- nastery, and on the other near the di- lapidated palace of Catherinenhof. Some of the bridges thrown over these canals are beautifully executed ; they are principally of red granite, with iron railings ; but the canals themselves are the greatest curiosity. Originally marshy and often pestilential, these dykes were converted into navigable streams, and thus became a principal means of pre- serving the very existence of the city, as well as the health of the inhabitants. The length of the Fontanka is esti- mated at 6 versts, or nearly 4 Eng- lish miles ; its breadth is upwards of 30 feet, and its depth 6 feet, and the whole extent of this is cased with blocks of granite ; the original cost of which alone, exclusive of the labour of driving piles and excavating the chan- nel, may be taken at an average of 12^. for each square fathom. They have all railings and footpaths, with numerous stairs descending to the water's edge. Many of the draw- bridges are particularly striking from the cluster of granite columns, within which is arranged the machinery for raising and lowering the platform of the bridge. There are one or two sus- pension bridges over the Fontanka, but the width is not sufficient to show off to advantage the graceful catenary curve ; the one leading from the Champ de Mars has a very pleasing effect, from the multitude of gilded stars with which the iron supporting rods, as well as the railing of the bridge, are covered. For these canals the capital is indebted to Catherine II., who, while she lavish- ed rubles by millions in gilding the exterior of palaces, which the coming winter was sure to strip of their gaudy covering, must nevertheless be allowed to have been always ready to promote any undertaking likely to conduce to the real grandeur of her empire and the good of her subjects ; and although not a hundredth part of the town s she founded, or the public works she projected, were
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ever carried substantially into effect, these canals alone are sufficient to entitle her to the lasting gratitude of all whose destiny compels them to reside perma- nently in St. Petersburgh.
Presuming, therefore, that the tra- veller has followed our directions, and thus taken a bird's-eye view of this city of palaces and its suburbs, and made himself generally acquainted with their topographical position, the next best move he can make will be to strike into the streets in his job car- riage, or droshky, and traverse the bridges, islands, great thoroughfares, quays, and squares, with a view of ac- quiring more in detail a knowledge of their chief characteristics — the external appearance of the great public build- ings, shops, and population ; and then take the sights at leisure as they present themselves most conveniently, or as his individual taste may suggest. This plan of a general survey will in some degree satisfy the feeling of restless curiosity consequent upon a recent ar- rival in scenes utterly strange, and better prepare the mind for the quiet contemplation of the great sights which have subsequently to be examined — no small undertaking in a city where there is so much to see. We will, therefore, assume that the traveller, accompanied by his lacquey-de-place, is seated in a job droshky, driven by one of the best isvostchiks of the capital, who pursues his way with shouts of Padi, padi, " Make way, make way," along the Eng- lish quay to the Petrovskaia Ploshad, on which is the spirited equestrian statue of the founder of the city. Pausing to take a glance at this, the traveller will observe, at the southern extremity of the open space, the noble portico and columns of the Izak Church, on the left the Admiralty, and in the distance the Winter Palace and the Etat Major, masses of architecture the like of which he has never seen before, nor will see again ; and, leaving these on the left, he is whirled into the Nevskoi Prospekt, at the fashionable hour of the
day. To a person accustomed to the moving crowds of London or Paris, the frequently quiet and deserted appear- ance of the vast squares and spacious streets of St. Petersburgh is peculiarly striking ; and this is owing to the in- sufficiency of the population to fill the frame allotted to it. Such, however, is not the case in the Nevskoi, the Regent Street of St. Petersburgh; 4 versts (3 miles) in extent, and nearly in a right line. Here all is life and movement, and no ten yards of ground are passed that do not present a scene or a subject that will arrest the atten- tion of the stranger. The space be- tween the Admiralty Square and the Annitshkoff Bridge on the Fontanka Canal, though fully an English mile in length, does not contain more than fifty houses, each of which, as may easily be inferred, is of colossal magni- tude ; most of these are the pro- perty of the several churches that skirt the street, the Dutch, the Roman Ca- tholic, the Armenian, and others, that received from Peter the Great large grants of land, of little value in all probability when first bestowed, but from which, as they are now in the heart of the city, splendid revenues are derived. Here is also theKazan Church, the Gostinnoi Dvor (the Great Bazaar), and one of the two great national thea- tres. This portion of the street is the fa- vourite promenade of the beatt monde of St. Petersburgh; the houses are magnifi- cent, rising to three and four stories; the equipages are in keeping, and roll noiselessly over the wood pavement; the footways on each side are broad and commodious. The bustle and the throng are great, carriages and four, with servants in splendid liveries, are met at every step, or, in the winter, most picturesque and well ap- pointed sledges; generals and princes, plumed, and with military step, are seen elbowing the crowd, staff-officers and aides-de-camp dash by ; the bearded merchant, and the mujik in his pink shirt, move slowly on; and
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soldiers in number and variety of uni- form out of all power to describe. To these costumes may be added tliose of the Circassian, Greek, and other Eastern nations ; indeed, all sects, races, and colours contribute to make up the popula- tion of the Russian capital ; to say no- thing of the shaven Europeans and their swallow-tailed coats. Here, too, may frequently be seen in a one-horse droshky, or walking, unaccompanied by even a single attendant, "a figure of the grandest beauty, expression, dimen- sion, and carriage, uniting all the ma- jesties and graces of all the heathen gods — the little god of love perhaps alone excepted " — tlie Autocrat of all the Russias. Gaze on him, traveller, for thou wilt never see his counterpart. The most agreeable hour to promenade the Nevskoi Prospekt is from twelve to two o'clock, when the ladies of the haut-ton do their shopping, and the men go to look at the fair purchasers ; nor is it extraordinary that they should thus look, for, though the sex amongst the lower classes is in general anything but beautiful, the women in the upper are the reverse of this; and we have seen formsand faces inSt.Petersburgh, which may vie for elegance and loveliness with those of any country in Europe. Toi- lettes, too, that defy criticism render them still more the objects of admira- tion, and, either attracted by them or the sun, the pedestri-ms always prefer the northern side, and on this side are the most magnificent shops.
The pleasure of the promenade in the Nevskoi is however qualified in summer by the dust, for there are no water carts ; in winter this inconvenience is not felt, and during that season we think no capital in Europe can present a more singular, and in its way a more mag- nificent spectacle than the display of sledges and costumes which crowd this street. "It is then covered by a S7nooth hard surface of snow, over which the equipages rush silently along; the snorting of the steeds and the admonishing ejaculations of the drivers
being the only sounds that are heard. There is something quite intoxicating in driving up and down through this wild bounding sea of carriages. The palnces on both sides are gaily arrayed by the beams of the sun; the street, though broad, is filled to overflowing; the equipages are of all kinds and di- mensions: here a modest istvostchik dashes along with a spruce clerk or a smart chambermaid behind him; there a splendid coach and four, filled with ladies, moves more leisurely along, and seems, compared to the humble sledges, a man-of-war sailing proudly amongst a fleet of cock boats. Coaches with a pair of horses announce the less ostentatious merchant. Handsome single-horse vehi- cles meanwhile are flying like lightning through the crowd, and Shivai, ski- vdi (Faster, faster), is the constant cry of the well starred magnificoes within. These are the generals and ministers hurrying to their offices and various appointments, who parade their d'amonds in so modest a convey- ance in imitation of the Emperor, while their wives are using up the breath of four steeds at least. Nay, the Em- peror himself, enveloped in his cloak, but unobserved, may pierce the throng, for his affairs are numberless in all quarters of the town. ' Gossudarf gossudarf (the lord ! the lord !) flies from every mouth. ' Padi ! padi ! ' cry the little postilions, in a sharp and sus- tained note, and almost at the same moment the apparition has passed away. A stranger, though he forget all else of Russia that he learned at St. Peters- burgh, will not forget the padi, Idvi., prdvi, and heregia, with which the charioteers steer their course through so arduous a navigation; and, if there be nothing else which he has learned to love in Russia, he will at least love the recollection of his sledge pro- menades, and will remember, with some kindness, his dexterous and willing istvostchik."
The seasons and the variations in the temperature bring about many and
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often very sudden changes in the ap- pearance of the population. In winter every one is clad in furs; in summer robes of gauze and silk, with a killing ckapeau of the most fragile materials, and the lightest scarf, are seen flutter- ing in the breeze. So instantaneous, indeed, are some of these capricious changes, that in the morning the cos- tumes will be all of a gossamer texture, and in the evening of the same day no one will venture out unless well wrapped up in cloaks and mantles. The sun shines, and swarms of guardsmen and well dressed women come fluttering forth — it rains, and the streets are abandoned to the mercantile community and the mujiks. One day it is all snow and sledges, the next, all mud and clattering wheels; in summer,- again, it is heat and dust, and the ther- mometer rises to 99° of Fahrenheit. In winter it falls to 50° below zero of Fahrenheit. This gives to the tem- perature a range of 149° of Fahren- heit, which probably exceeds that of any other city in Europe. In sum- mer, a rough wind will, on a hot sul- try day, drive down the thermometer to 26° of Fahrenheit. But we are lin- gering too long in the Prospekt, for there is yet much to be done before dinner, and Shivdi, sMvdi will be the word to the istvostchik when he reaches a bend in the street, at a distance of two miles from the Admi- ralty: at this point, the traveller, if he looks back, will descry the gilt spire and weathercock of that build- ing, towering above every other ; and the animated scene he has witnessed at the further extremity of the Pro- spekt will here be replaced by one of a very different character. The gay crowd has disappeared; an istvostchik that has strayed with a chance fare thus far, and a few merchants' clerks, are seen returning to their more central haunts and habitations; further on, the houses, which have only their originality to recommend them, are painted in red and yellow; and every
man the stranger meets displays a beard of venerable length, and a yet longer caftan. Next follow markets and magazines for the sale of super- annuated furniture and apparel, which, having done good service in the fashion- able quarters of the city, are now con- signed to the suburbs. A little further still, and on the right, is the Alexander parade-ground, and immediately oppo- site, on the left hand, the winter pro- vision market; in the low houses and around the spirit shops near this may be descried swarms of Russian peasants, uproariously happy under the influence of their favourite vodka ; and we come at length to the monastery and ceme- tery of Alexander Nevskoi, situated near the Neva, and terminating the most extensive thoroughfare in St. Petersburgh. The distance from the monastery to the bend in this street is nearly a mile. When at the monas- tery, " Na levo," (to the left,) should be the instruction to the driver, and, fol- lowing the course of the Neva for nearly a mile, he should turn into the Malaia Bolotnaia, at the end of which, on the left, is the Arsenal of the Horse Artillery; and a little beyond, on the right, the Convent of the Demoiselles Nobles and the Smolnoi church. The river between the Nevskoi and this convent is enlivened by num- bers of Rvissian vessels, cumbrous un- wieldy craft, many of them built only to bring fire-wood to the capital from the forests of the Ladoga, and then to be broken up themselves for the same useful purpose. From the Smolnoi, the stranger will come into the Bol- shaia Voskresenskaia, and, passing the Taurida Palace in that street, and fur- ther on the Summer Gardens, proceed by the quays, the Hermitage, and Winter Palace, and along the Admiralty Square to the point at which he set out, namely, the English Quay, in time to join the promenaders who resort there in the afternoon. This is the real promenade of those who lounge; the purchases have been made in the
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Nevskoi, the parade is over, the mer- chants are leaving the Exchange, and as the quay is not a convenient tho- roughfare, the promenaders are seldom disturbed by the presence of persons intent on business, or by the humble and not over cleanly mujik. The car- riages of the grandees stop at the New- Admiralty, and there put down their noble owners, who content themselves with walking up and down the river side, two or three times, laughing and gossiping in loud continental tones. The Emperor and the Imperial family are frequently on this walk, and form a centre to the groups that come to salute them and to be saluted by them. The Emperor, though apparently upon a footing of equality with his admiring subjects, is far from being so on the score of height, and towers above them all. But of all the tall men that wander occasionally up and down the English Quay at St. Petersburgh, the two tallest are unquestionably the Empress's footmen, who, in their pur- ple uniforms, attend the steps of their imperial mistress. These men are quite giants, such as are seldom seen except in a booth at a fair ; should, however, these Patagonian twins be absent from the capital, the stranger will see very fair representatives of them in the per- sons of several splendid drum-majors of the guards — quite loves ! Thus one day will be well disposed of.
The next drive should be by the Izak Church and along the Moika Canal into the Nevskoi, in which the stranger will always find something novel and amusing to attract his atten- tion ; here, as in the other streets, he will not fail to remark the Russian tradesman's mode of advertising his wares, by pictorial illustrations of his craft or occupation; for the reading public is somewhat limited, and huge placards and colossal letters, though revolving by invisible agency, and ex- citing attention, would here aiford little information to the multitude. " The optician announces his calling by a
PETERSBmiGH. , ScCt. V.
profuse display of spectacles and tele- scopes ; the butcher suspends in front of his establishment a couple of painted oxen, or, perhaps, a portrait of himself in the act of presenting a ruddy joint to a passing dame. These signs, that speak the only mute language intelli- gible to the Russian population, relieve, in some measure, the monotony of the streets. The baker is sure to have a board over his door, with a representa- tion of every species of roll and loaf offered for sale in his shop; the tallow- chandler is equally careful to suspend the portraits of all his varieties of longs and shorts destined to light mankind. The musician, pastry-cook, in short, every handicraftsman to whom the humbler classes are likely to apply, adopt the same plan, and from the second and third floors huge pictures may sometimes be seen suspended with appalling likenesses of fiddles, flutes, tarts, sugar-plums, sausages, smoked hams, coats, caps, shoes, stockings, &c. For a barber the customary symbol is the following picture : a lady sits fainting in a chair ; before her stands the man of science with a glittering lancet in his hand, and from her snow- white arm a purple fountain springs into the air to fall afterwards into a basin held by an attendant youth. By the side of the lady sits a phlegmatic philosopher undergoing the operation of shaving without manifesting the slightest sympathy for the fair sufferer. Around the whole is a kind of. ara- besque border, composed of black leeches and instruments for drawing teeth. This picture is of frequent occurrence in every large Russian town ; but the most characteristic sign of all is that of a midwife — a bed, with the curtains closely drawn, announces the invisible presence of the accouchee ; and in front is a newly arrived stranger, just fresh from the gooseberry bush, on the lap of the accoucheuse, undergoing, to his manifest discomfiture, the inflic- tion of his first toilet." Most of these signs are tolerably executed ; the Rus-
Bussia.
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451
sians attach great importance to them, and a stranger will obtain from them some knowledge of the manners of the people. On reaching the Fontanka Canal the driver must turn to the left ; for along the east end of it and the Litenaia the houses of the most fashion- able persons are to be seen. Here are the palaces of the Kotshubeys, the She- remetiefs, who are the largest landhold- ers in the empire, the Bratniskis, the Na- rishkins, the Chancellors of the Empire, the ministers, the grandees, and the millionaires, on ground where, a cen- tury ago, nothing met the eye but a few huts tenanted by Ingrian fish- ermen ; and the OrlofFs, Dolgorukis, and StrogonoflFs, &c., have, it must be owned, displayed taste and judgment in their choice of a quarter wherein to erect their sumptuous dwellings. These palaces are not crowded and stuck close together, with railings and a pit in the front of each, down which the pot-boy takes the beer, and the milk- man his sky-blue, as in Belgravia, but every house stands detached in aristo- cratic exclusiveness, v/ith a handsome space for carriages to draw up to the door. Passing from hence, that is, the east end of the Fontanka Canal, the traveller should drive through the Bol- shaia Ssattovaia, or Great Garden Street, which, leaving the Nevskoi, runs close by one side of the Gostinnoi Dvor. Beyond this, on the right, is the Com- mercial Bank, and on the left, the Apraxin market-place ; a little dis- tance from whence, and still in the Ssattovaia, is the Sennaia Ploschad, or hay -market, which may be considered as the great locale for the provisions sold in St. Petersburgh. At right angles with this is the Semenofskoi parade ground and barracks, from whence the stranger should return to the Fontanka, and so home either by the Church of St. Nicholas and the Great Theatre, or by the tallow store- houses on the Neva, and the New Ad- miralty : thus the west of the city will have been cursorily surveyed. A short
drive across the Izakiefskoi Bridge will introduce the traveller to the splendid quays on the opposite side of the Neva ; and here, turning short to the left, is the institution of the Corps of Cadets, which building occupies a space of ground nearly a quarter of an English mile square; near this is the Roman- zoff Obelisk, and beyond it the Aca- demy of Arts and the Second Corps of Cadets, the Finland Barracks, and the Hotel des Mines. Pursuing the quays, the isvostchik should turn in at the west end of the Bolshoi Prospekt, one of the most peculiar and handsome streets in St. Petersburgh. It is very wide, and has gardens in front of all the houses on either side. The houses, tenanted mostly by German professors, academicians, and merchants, and some Russians, are agreeably hidden behind the trees of the gardens. In the centre runs the broad road for carriages and pedestrians. A footpath through the garden leads to the house door, but the principal entrance is in the court-yard, round which the dwelling-house is built, and at every second garden is a drive for carriages to enter the said court-yard. In turning from the main streets into one of these court- yards the stranger might fancy himself entering a detached farm-house, or a nobleman's seat. This peculiar and pretty arrangement is owing to the manner in which the street was first laid out by Peter the Great. He had made broad canals on each side ; but as in time these canals were found incon- venient, they were filled up, and gardens planted in their stead. At the eastern extremity of this street the word must be JVajoravo (to the right) ; and, repassing the front of the Corps of Cadets and Academy of Sciences to the Exchange, the view at the Strelka point is one of the finest that can be enjoyed from any part of the capital. The citadel, with its bastions and bristling embrasures, and the church of St. Peter and St. Paul, with its golden spire of faultless elegance and symmetry, are seen on. the
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Sect. V.
left, and the whole extent of the Neva from east to west, with its constant succession of gaily painted ferry boats passing from bank to bank ; its bridges and their passing crowds on either hand ; while on the opposite shore are distinguished in the far distance, to the left, the glittering domes of the Smolnoi monastery, and nearer again the iron railing of the Summer Gardens, the wide expanse of the Champ de Mars, and the gilded tower of the Engineers beyond it; full in front is the long continuous line of palaces, with the Column of Alexander towering proudly above them all ; the Marble Palace, the Hermitage, and the Winter Palace : — the intervening space admits a view of the hotel of the Etat Major, and its triumphal chariot ; and then the Boule- vard, whose green trees inclose the enormous length of the Admiralty, with its tapering spire and crowded dock-yard. Beyond this again is Peter upon his charger, the front of the huge Senate House, and the English Quay stretching far along the Neva.
The quay on this side of the river is, if anything, more mngnificent than that which forms the boundary to the line of palaces on the opposite shore. There the dock-yard of the Admiralty "breaks the continuity, and materially diminishes the effect ; but here we have one uninterrupted line of massive gra- nite buttresses forming the bank of the river throughout the whole length of the Vassili Island, terminating in front of the Exchange, at this point, in a circular landing-place for merchandise, and ornamented throughout by a para- pet wall composed of enormous blocks of red granite.
The Custom House is next to the Exchange, and passing it down the quay ta the bridge, the best way home will be over the little Neva, when the right should be kept round the citadel, over the Troitskoi Bridge. In this way the most populous and best portions of the capital will have been traversed, the eye has become somewhat accus-
tomed to the extensive proportion of its streets and 2>ioschads, and the tra- veller will have attained some notion of its topographical features. In doing this he will, if on a droshky, have been as ''well shaken" as the old woman's physic " before it was taken." But the fatigue which must necessarily arise from this species of locomotion will be trifling compared with that of lionizing the sights of this capital.
THE WINTER PALACE.
No modern city can boast that it is so entirely composed of palaces and colossal public edifices as St. Peters- burgh : in some of these several thou- sand persons reside — six thousand, for instance, are said to inhabit the Winter Palace during the Emperor's residence in the capital ; and the traveller, when he looks on this gigantic pile of build- ing, will not fail to remember that it once fell a prey to the ravages of fire, at least the interior of it, and in a few hours the greedy flames destroyed much of those treasures and works of art which had, with extraordinary zeal, been collected during the prosperous reigns and magnificent courts of Eliza- beth and Catherine, and the less gor- geous but more elegant ones of Alex- ander and Nicholas. Kohl, speaking of the immense extent of this Palace previous to its destruction on the 29th of December, 1837, remarks, " that the suites of apartments were perfect laby- rinths, and that even the chief of the imperial household, who had filled that post for twelve years, was not perfectly acquainted with all the nooks and cor- ners of it. As in the forests of the great landholders many colonies are settled of which the owner takes no notice, so there nestled many a one in this palace not included amongst the regular inhabitants. For example, the watchmen on the roof, placed there for diff'erent purposes, among others to keep the water in the tanks from freez- ing during the winter, by casting in red-hot balls, built themselves huts be-
Russia.
EOUTE 93. THE WINTEK PALACE.
453
tween the chimneys, took their wives and children there, and even kept poultry and goats, who fed on the grass of the roof ; it is said that at last some cows were introduced, but this abuse had been corrected before the Palace was burnt." The conflagration of the Winter Palace originated in some defect in the flues by which it was heated, and though the crown jewels and much valuable property were saved from the flames, still the destruc- tion of property must have been im- mense, spread, as it was, over a surface of such enormous extent ; the principal rooms alone, nearly one hundred in number, occupied, on the first floor, an area of four hundred thousand square feet. After the destruction by fire of the Winter Palace, it is said the Count Barincky ofl'ered the Emperor 1,000,000 of rubles towards the erec- tion of the new edifice ; a small trades- man 1500 ; and two days subsequent to the calamity, a man with a long beard, and dressed in the caftan of a common mujik, met the Emperor in his droshky, and laid at his feet bank notes to the value ofe 25,000 rubles. It is scarcely necessary to add that the Emperor did not accept these generous offers of assistance. The inundations of the Neva, and the destruction by fire of the Winter Palace, are two prominent epochs in the history of the city ; and, as on every great emergency, the Em- peror, at this last calamity, failed not to show qualities which have made him eminently admired and respected by his subjects. The heroic devotion and disregard of danger exhibited by the firemen and mujiks are spoken of in glowing terms by those who witnessed the devastation of that fatal night, and it was with very great difficulty that many of them could be prevented from recklessly endangering their lives. Some, indeed, were lost ; on learning which, the Emperor ordered that the people should be prevented from enter- ing the burning pile ; and he is re- ported to have said, " Let it burn
away, let it all go, but let not a life be endangered in attempts to save com- paratively worthless property." Many of those who were in the building would not, however, leave ; and, as a last resource, it is said that Nicholas ordered some officers to go and smash the large mirrors with hammers, in order to prevent the soldiers and people from making any further attempts to save them. Another anecdote was current at the time, that his Majesty, observing the danger attending the eflforts of one party who were endea- vouring to save one of these mirrors, and that it was impossible to attract their attention in the confusion which reigned, threw his opera-glass at it, when the men seeing it smashed, but not knowing whence the blow came, immediately desisted, and were thereby saved. The gilt cross on the cupola of the private chapel resisted the fury of the devouring element, and, glowing with increased brilliancy in the light of the furnace around it, was watched by many an anxious eye in the crowd of believers beneath, who ascribed its preservation to miraculous intervention. This idea proved a powerful engine in the hands of the architect ; for, under the conviction that a blessing rested on the Palace, the workmen toiled with double assiduity at its reconstruc- tion. In one point of view this -de- structive fire has proved an advantage, for the custom of consigning to solitude those suites of rooms occupied by a deceased sovereign, had here closed so many of the finest apartments, that in a few more generations the reigning monarch would have been fairly turned out by the ghosts of his predecessors. In two years from the destruction of this Palace it rose again under the skilful hands of the architect Klein- michael, and the united industry of several thousand workmen, to its former magnificence, and is now, perhaps, the most splendid and largest royal edifice in the world. This imperial residence is indeed commanding, presenting,
X 3
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Sect. V.
as it does, a front towards the Neva of more than 700 feet ; it also covers a very large space of ground, and is nearly a third larger than the palace of the Austrian Emperor, and almost twice as large as that of Naples ; its form is nearly a complete square, the angles of which answer to the four cardinal points of the compass. Its long fa(5ades are highly imposing, and form a grand continuation to those of the Admiralty beyond it. In visiting this and other imperial palaces, it will be necessary that the traveller should be arrayed, not in purple and fine linen, but in a swallow-tailed coat. The ticket of admission to see the Winter Palace may be obtained from the Major of the gate during the summer months. The entrance for civilians is by a small door immediately opposite the Column of Alexander ; and, accompanied by one of the imperial servants in a hand- some livery, the stranger will have the opportunity of wandering through suites of splendid apartments, galleries, and halls, filled with marbles, mala- chites, precious stones, vases, and pic- tures ; amongst them many portraits of the great generals and mighty men of Russia and other countries. Also one of Potemkin ; he is represented as of colossal height and fine countenance, and as remarkable for the development of limb and muscle, as well as for the soft expression of his blue eyes ; in fact, to judge by this portrait, one would say that he was made to command an army of Cossacks, and trouble a woman's heart. Here also are several fine Mu- rillos, and the Adoration of the Shep- herds by Berghem, one of the finest works of that master. The Empress's drawing-room is a perfect jewel of taste, and the chapel, St. George's Hall, a parallelogram of 140 feet by 60, and numbers of gilded cham- bers, one more gorgeous than another, form an almost wearying succession of magnificence. The Hall of St. George is the apartment on the splendour of Avhich the Russians most pride them-
selves. It is here that the Emperor gives audience in solemn state to foreign ambassadors. Near it is the gallery of the generals, containing portraits by our countryman, Mr. Dawe, of all the distinguished officers who served under the Russian colours during the war of the invasion and the subsequent hosti- lities, till Napoleon's final overthrow : some of the faces are strikingly hand- some, and almost all have a degree of character about them which is surpris- ing, when we consider that they were all painted in rapid succession by the same artist. There is hardly one that does not give the idea of being a good likeness ; and certainly we never saw so large an assemblage of good- looking men, which, considering their exposure to the perils of war, and in- clemency of the weather, is still more singular; the most striking picture is a full-length of the Emperor Alexander on horseback, of gigantic dimensions, and said to be the best likeness of him now in existence. At the entrance to this long gallery stand two sentinels of the Russian guard, still and motionless, looking as if they, also were creations of art ; and at each end are suspended French eagles, the names of the princi- pal battles that occurred in the war being written in large gold characters on the walls. Many of these pictures must be copies, as the soldiers they represent found a warrior's death on the field of honour long before this col- lection was begun.
Beyond this gallery is the field-mar- shals' saloon. Here the portraits do not exceed eight or ten in number, for that rank is as rarely bestowed in Russia as in England. The " Duke " is amongst the distinguished few ; and the symbol which accompanies the full- length portrait of the hero of a hundred fights is that of imperishable strength, the British oak.
Beyond this is the Salle Blanche, the most magnificent apartment in this most magnificent of palaces, and so called from its decorations being all in
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BOUTE 93. — THE WINTEB PALACE.
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pure white, relieved only with gilding. The dimensions are nearly the same as those of the Hall of the Grenerals. Here the court fetes are held, and, to judge by the graphic description given
by Miss R of that on New Year's
day, we would recommend those who may have the power to attend one ; they must form the most brilliant pa- geant of in-door palace life to be seen in Christendom, " Ranged along the walls/' says this lady, " stood a triple row of motionless soldiery ; on one side, in graceful contrast with their stiff lines, was congregated a fair bevy of female figures, with sweeping trains and gleaming jewels ; while slim figures of court chamberlains, with breast and back laden with the richest gold em- broidery, with white pantaloons and silk stockings, hurried across the scene — or stopped to pay homage to the ladies — or loitered to converse with the groops of officers in every variety of uniform, with stars, orders, and cordons glittering about them, who sauntered in the centre. Conspicuous among these latter was the person of the Grand Duke Michael, brother to the Emperor — a magnificent figure, with immense length of limb and a peculiar curve of outline which renders him re- cognisable at any distance, among hun- dreds in the same uniform, and who was seen pacing slowly backwards and forwards on the marble-like parqtiet, bending fierce looks on the sol- diery.
" Nor was the scene above without its attractions and peculiarities, for many distinguished-looking individuals were leaning over the same railings with myself — among them an Ingrelian princess, a middle-aged woman of un- common beauty, with commanding fea- tures and long languishing eyes, and a peculiar high head-dress, flowing veil, and a profusion of jewels. And at the upper end, apart from all, sat in a soli- tary chair the Grand Duchess Olga, second daughter of the Emperor, a most beautiful girl of sixteen, just re-
stored from a dangerous fever, the traces of which were visible in the exquisite delicacy of her complexion, and in the light girl-like cap worn to hide the absence of those tresses which had been sacrificed to her illness. She was attended by her preceptress, Ma- dame Baranoff.
" But now the drums beat, the trum- pets sounded, and every eye turned below. A cortege was seen advancing through the open entrance, and the Commandant Sakachefsky, rearing his full length and corpulent person, put himself with drawn sword at their head. A line of military passed, then a body of chamberlains, — when the band broke into the soul- stirring na- tional hymn ' Boje Zara chrani ' — the troops presented arms, and a noble figure was seen advancing.
"This was the Emperor — the plainest dressed, but the most magnificent figure present, wanting no outward token to declare the majesty of his presence. He passed slowly on, accommodating his manly movements to the short, feeble steps of the Empress, who, arrayed in a blaze of jewels, dragged a heavy train of orange-coloiired velvet after her, and seemed hardly able to support her own weight. To the Imperial pair succeeded the Naslednih, or Heritier, the slender prototype of his father's grand proportions, with the Grand Duke Michael, and the youngest son of the Imperial house. Portly ladies and gfaceful maids of honour, with grey-haired generals, were seen in glistening train behind. But the eye followed that commanding figure and lofty brow, towering above every other, till it vanished beneath the portals leading to the chapel. And now en- sued all the disorderly rear of a pro- cession— tardy maids of honour and flirting officers, who came helter-skelter along, talking and laughing with a free- dom proportioned to their distance from the Imperial pair — till the doors closed on them also, and the immoveable mi- litary were left to thank the gods that
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Sect. V.
the Grand Duke's eyes were otherwise employed." Yet, although a strict disciplinarian, his invariable kindness to the subordinate officers, and non- commissioned officers, and the army in general, merit his being entitled the sol- dier's friend.
The diamond-room, containing the crowns and jewels of the Imperial fa- mily, is also well worthy of being seen. Diamonds, rubies, and emeralds are ranged round the room in small cases of such dazzling beauty that it is almost bewildering to look at them. The croAvn of the Emperor is adorned with a chaplet of oak-leaves made of dia- monds of an extraordinary size, and the Imperial sceptre contains one sup- posed to be the largest in the world, being the celebrated stone purchased by the Empress Catherine II. from a Greek slave, for 450,000 rubles and a large pension for life. Briiloffs pic- ture of the Kaising of the Serpent in the Wilderness is to be seen here. It has great merit and some few defects ; the figures are for the most part por- traits of Israelites who inhabit the Ghetto at Rome, and the result there- fore is really a Hebrew crowd. There is also, if not recently removed, the famous Chinese cabinet of Catherine, and a small room to which Peter the Great used to retire from the turmoil of affairs. There Avas, in the last century, a palace called the Sum- mer Palace on the Fontanka, but this was pulled down by the Emperor Paul, the name, therefore, is now without meaning, for the castle built to replace the former was designated as the Michailof Samok or Castle. There is a telegraph in the corner of the Winter Palace, close to the Emperor's private apartments, by means of Avhich he can transmit his own orders to Cronstadt, Peterhoff, &c. This machine is on a different principle from ours, being merely two hands on a white dial, like that of a clock ; it works at night by means of lamps fastened to the ex- tremities of the hands. This plan
seems to be more complete than that of the French and English telegraphs.
THE HERMITAGE.
It is a well-known fact that the great Catherine built her Hermitage as Frederick did his Sans-Souci, and Numa his Grotto of Egeria. But the Hermitage is no cloistered solitude — no rocky grotto hidden amid the waters of the Neva's murmuring sources — but a magnificent palace, second only to that we have just described, while within it is loaded with precious ob- jects of art^and vertu. The Empress built this temple in order that she might retire to it in her leisure moments, there to enjoy the conversation of the French philosophers and men of learn- ing ; and here, after the duties of the sove- reign had been transacted in the Win- ter Palace, she was wont to pass the evening, surrounded by all that could gratify the eye or the senses; musi- cians displayed their talents, artists their works, scientific men their specu- lations, and political men their opinions ; for, in accordance with the ukase sus- pended in all the apartments, perfect freedom and equality reigned ; and the pictures which we see elsewhere only as allegorical representations of art and science-loving princes, were here every day realized. On the roof was a gai"- den Avith flowers, shrubs, and trees, heated in winter by subterraneous stoves, and illuminated in summer by variegated lamps, under the prismatic colours of which the brilliant assem- blage wandered.
The Hermitage is connected with the Winter Palace by several covered galleries, and forms a sort of continua- tion of that vast building. The prin- cipal facade faces the Neva. It has little claim to architectural beauty, and may be divided into three parts, each of which was the work of a different architect. The first part, which is united to the Winter Palace, and some- what resembles it in style, was built by Lamotte, in 1765. The second
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ROUTE 93. — THE HEEMITAGE.
457
part, which extends to the small canal connecting the Moi'ka with the Neva, was the work of the architect Velten, in 1775. The Theatre forms the third part, and is joined to the rest of the building by a bridge and covered gal- lery. It was built by (juarenghi, and is perhaps the finest part of the Her- mitage. In 1804 the Hermitage was finally completed. Catlierine not only built, or rather caused to be built, this luxurious retreat, but furnished those who were admitted to her intimacy with the opportunity of becoming ac- quainted with those admirable master- pieces of art which had graced the walls of many of the royal palaces of Europe, and thus laid the foundation of that gallery of paintings which is now without a rival in Northern Europe. Her agents were sent into every part of Europe to collect objects of worth and variety. The celebrated Grimm at Paris, and Riefenstein and Mengs at Rome, received the orders of the Empress to spare no expense in col- lecting pictures worthy a place in the gallery of their Imperial mistress. Many of these are renowned all over the civilized world, and will enchant every connoisseur, particularly those who admire the Dutch school of paint- ing. On the whole, there are more cottages, such as Ostade painted, than there are Venetian palaces or Roman churches ; more Grerman cattle pastures than southern Alps ; more roasted and un roasted game than roasted martyrs ; more hares transfixed by the spit of the cook than Sebastians by the arrows of the heathen ; more dogs, horses, and cows than priests, prophets, and saintly visions. The first collection purchased by Catherine's agents was that of Crozat of Paris, and numbered four hundred pictures. Those of the Count de Brlihl, of Dresden, which consisted chiefly of specimens of the Dutch and Flemish schools, were soon afterwards added to those of Crozat, Several col- lections belonging to Tranchini of Geneva, the Count Baudouin of Paris,
and others, were next purchased ; but it was not until the justly celebrated Houghton gallery was added, that the Hermitage boasted some of the finest pictures in Europe. Catherine gave 35,000^. for this precious collection; and we must regret that no Englishman was found sufficiently wealthy and patriotic to prevent its removal to the banks of the Neva. Several other ad- ditions of value were made by Cathe- rine. The Emperor Alexander, in 1807, purchased part of the splendid gallery of the Prince Giustiniani, and, in 1814, that of Hope, the banker of Amsterdam, consisting chiefly of pic- tures by Spanish masters — 8700^. was paid for this collection. In 1815, the purchase of the Malmaison Gallery was added to the already splendid collection of the Hermitage. Since that period it has been further enriched by the choicest morsels from the late Mr. Coesvelt's gallery in Carlton Terrace. It is interesting thus to trace the forma- tion of such vast and splendid reposito- ries of taste; but we must unhappily refrain from instituting any comparison between them and those of our own country.
M. Labensky is the Director of the gallery of the Hennitage ; and the traveller should endeavour to procure his permission to visit some rooms which are not usually shown to strangers. This gentleman has caused an excel- lent catalogue of the collection to be printed, and a copy is to be found in each room*. A ticket of admission will be procured by the valet-de-place, and the swallow-tailed coat cannot be dispensed with. The entrance to the Palace is by a small door on the quay, near the canal. On entering the antechamber three doors present themselves : that facing the visitor leads into the long room, which is built on the bridge, connecting the second and third divi- sions of the Hermitage, and leading to the Theatre; that to the right opens
* Livret de la Galerie Imperials de I'Her- mitage.— Pratz. 1838.
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EOUTE 93. THE HERMITAGE.
Sect. V.
into the Raphael Gfallery, whilst that to the left discloses a long suite of apartments containing the finest pic- tures in the collection. The room which faces the entrance contains few pictures worth detaining a visitor who has so much to see. Turning therefore to the left, he enters
Room 2. — The best pictures in this room are, Paul Potter, landscape with figures and cattle ; Rubens, two landscapes ; Ruysdael, a waterfall ; a fine picture; Everdingen, sea view and figures. Europa, ' Giddo ; Death of Martyrs, Murillo.
Room 3. — Susannah and the Elders, Sebastian del Piomho ; Singer with Guitar, Caravaggio ; the Death of the first Inquisitor, Murillo ; several pictures by Salvator Rosa ; St. Mark, Domenichino ; a Holy Family, Schi- done; a very fine picture.
Room 4. — Dead Christ with Angels, A. Carracci; the Prodigal Son, Salvator Rosa. This picture is generally esteemed one of the finest in the collection. The repentant youth is kneeling amid the cattle, his hands clasped, and his looks directed towards heaven with the most earnest ex- pression of sorrow. The colouring is forcible, and true to nature. The figure is as large as life. The height of the picture is 6 ft. 10 in., the breadth, 6 ft. 6 in.
Room 5. — The vases, candelabras, and other ornaments of violet jasper, which fill this room, are of exquisite beauty. Fra Bartolomeo, the Virgin, with Angels playing on instruments of music. Andrea del Sarto, a Holy Family. Guido, the Consultation of the Fathers, on the Immaculate Con- ception ; St. Ambrose, St. Jerome, and four other sages are investigating the great mystery, whilst the Virgin and Angels, surrounded by celestial glory, appear to the astonished Saints. This picture has been engraved, and is looked upon as one of the first speci- mens of this master. Guercino, Moses receiving the Divine Laws. Salvator
Rosa. — This room contains several fine pictures by this master ; Soldiers Grambling ; Democritus and Protagoras. Carlo Maratti, portrait of Pope Clement IX. ; a remarkably fine speci- men of this master. This room is one of the largest in the Hermitage, and contains numerous pictures of the Ita- lian school ; the lights, however, are bad — a defect which many of the rooms unfortunately possess.
Room 6. — Holy Family ; Rapliael. A superb picture, lately purchased from Mr. Cosway, in London, for 6250^. A Christ, Leonardo da Vinci; a Sibyl, Domenichino. These pictures have been recently added to the col- lection. There are several pictures in this room marked Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael, but a focility in bestow- ing names is as apparent here as in most of the galleries of Europe.
Room 7. — This room is devoted to the works of Philip and Peter Wouver- onans; of the former alone there are fifty-four specimens; among which are some of his finest pictures. A Hunting Party with Falcons, a Stag Hunt, Tra- vellers Resting, and the Interior of a Stable are the most remarkable. Se- veral rooms here branch off to the left, and unite with one already passed through ; these are generally visited on returning. Proceeding in a line with Room 6, the next room contains a large clock, remarkable for the beauty of its mechanism ; the Emperor purchased it for 20,000 rubles of the widow of a poor clergyman, to whom it had fallen in a lottery. This instrument executes over- tures with the effect and precision of a full band, and is certainly a most per- fect piece of machinery ; its action is unaccompanied by any jarring, wheez- ing, or unpleasant noise, which in these complicated instruments is generally the case. If the traveller can obtain per- mission to hear it, he will be much gra- tified.
Roo7n 9. — This room is filled with pictures of Teniers, the father and son ; Brauwer and Ostade. Teniers (the
Russia.
EOUTE 93. — THE HEKMITAGE.
459
son) has been well termed the Proteus of painters. There are forty-four by this artist in this room alone ; and they are distinguished by a singular variety of subjects. The Interior of a Kitchen and a Village Feast are in his best manner.
RoomlO. — Berghem, the Repose in Egypt ; a very fine picture of the Return of the Flock, and several others ; in all eleven "of the very first class."
In a small oval room, adjoining Room 10, are some cabinets containing a most interesting collection of anti- quities from Kertch, a town in the Crimea, situated on the strait which joins the Black Sea with that of Azoff, It is wonderful that such costly relics, for most of them are of gold, should have been preserved for so many cen- turies. From ancient times the count- less graves of the Greeks of Taurus and the Chersonesus have been objects of zealous research ; the Huns, the Tar- tars, and the Cossacks plundered them in turns, and melted down the trea- sures found therein ; and whatever the watchfulness of the government could rescue from the unhistorical merchants and robbers has been deposited in the Hermitage. The greater part of these rare specimens of Gfreek art were found in some of the various tumuli that cover the plain in the neighbourhood of the ancient Panticapseum, and a few came from Olbia, a Greek colony planted in the Chersonesus by the Athenians ; the choicest objects are the laurel wreaths, of the purest gold, which adorned the victor's brow. Many of these are quite perfect, not a twig or leaf being de- ficient. A gold mask and shield are also very curious ; indeed the gold orna- ments are most beautifully executed, and may defy the Rundels and Bridges of our own days. Pictures as good as those in the Hermitage are to be seen in several capitals, but a collection of antiquities similar to these will rarely, if ever, be met with elsewhere ; to those acquainted with Greek art it will be deeply interesting.
Room 12. — This large room is filled with Remhrandts, and forms one of the most valuable parts of the collection. It contains thirty-nine productions of that master. The Return of the Pro- digal Son is esteemed one of the finest. A Monk and his Pupil ; the Holy Fa- mily in Joseph's Workshop ; St. Ann teaching the Virgin to read ; the por- trait of John Sobieski ; Portrait of an Old Woman with a Book, and several other portraits are in his best manner.
Room 13, — A superb malachite vase occupies the centre of this room. The celebrated portrait of the Empress Catherine II., by Lavipi, hangs in this apartment. The busts of several Russian generals, among which may be remarked that of Suwaroif, are placed here.
Room 14. — A small room. It con- tains a fine picture by Rembrandt — Abraham sacrificing his son Isaac. A second door leads from No. 13 to six apartments, which are not shown to visitors, except on application to the Director, M. Labensky. The three first of this suite contain the collection of engravings, which is said to be com- posed of 30,000 specimens. There are also numerous original sketches by the great masters ; an extensive series of portraits of the princes of Russia, and of the most illustrious men of Europe, costumes, maps, &c., &c. A fourth room is filled with cameos, and the re- maining two are occupied by the col- lection of coins and medals. In this collection is a perfect series of Russian coins from the earliest date, but it is in other respects less complete and extensive than many in Europe.
The cameos amount to the number of 10,000, and include specimens of the greatest beauty and scarcity. This collection is chiefly scattered through the picture gallery. The greater part of it was once the property of Egalite, Duke of Orleans.
Room 16. — Here commence the long galleries which surround the garden. This room, together with Rooms 17,
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EOUTE 93. — THE HERMITAGE.
Sect. V.
18, and 19, are chiefly occupied by the works of the French school; of this part of the collection the French writers speak with much enthusiasm, as surpassing any other department of the gallery. Poussin's landscapes are fine pictures. The Captive Family of Darius before Alexander, Peter Mig- nard. We are informed that this is "I'un des chef-d'oeuvres de I'Ecole Fran- caise ;" and that the martyrdom of St. Stephen " seul meriterait a Le Sueur le sumom du Raphael Francjais." We may, perhaps, be allowed to award more moderate praise. In Eoom 19 are several fine pictiires of Claude, and about twenty by Poussin; numerous works of Le Sueur, Bourdon, Joseph Vernet, &c., &c.
Room 20 is devoted to the Russian school.
Room 21. — This room is termed the Snyders Gallery, and contains several pictures by that master, of which, per- haps, the Bear Hunt is the most remark- able. Vandyke, a large and fine land- scape. Wouvermaiu, a large landscape, concerning which we have the following valuable piece of information from a French writer : — " Attribue par I'eti- quette a Thomas Jones, mais nous ne connaissons aucun peintre de ce nom, a. moins que ce ne sois Inigo, ou Ignace Jones, peintre Anglais que Charles I. affectionnait " ! ! Inigo Jones certainly painted one or two land- scapes in his early youth, one of which is preserved, incorrect in drawing, and the colouring " very indifferent ;" bat that he was the favourite painter of Charles I. is certainly a new dis- cover}'.
Rooms 22 and 23 contain few re- markable pictures.
Room 24. — The martyrdom of St. Peter, Caravaggio — a fine picture; two Saints, Fra Bartolomeo; Hercules strnn- gling the Serpents dreadfully faded. Sir Joshua Reynolds. Thisroom contains numerous works of the Italian masters.
Room 25.
Room 26. — A Holy Family, marked
Andrea del Sarto ; a Portrait, Bor- done — a very fine specimen of the master; a Portrait, Salvator Rosa; and numerous productions of the Ita- lian school.
Rooms 27 and 28 contain several ivory figures carved by Peter the Grreat; one, a doll, which represents that mo- narch's hostess at Zaardam, and a group of Laplanders, in ivory, worked in their country.
Room 29. — Here commences the Dutch school : the Alchymist, Gerard Dow, and several others by the same master. Two small cabinet pictures, Mieris.
Room 30 contains several pictures by G. Dow, Van Ostade, Mieris, Vander Neer, Vander Werff, &c. The visitor must now retrace his steps to the room occupied by the pictures of Wouvermans. A suite of rooms to the left contains the continuation of the Dutch and the Flemish school.
Room 34. — Pictures by Vander Werff, Le Due, Steen, Maas, &c.
Room 35 and two following rooms contain the works of Ruhens and his illustrious pupil Vandyke, in which this collection is particularly rich. Van- dyke, the portraits of Charles I. and his Queen, and the Flight into Egypt, in the first room. In the second, the Roman Daughter, Bacchus and Satyrs, the River Tigris, Perseus and Andro- meda, may be classed among the finest productions of Rubens. The MartjT- dom of St. Sebastian. Portrait of Wil- liam II., Prince of Orange, and several others. In the same room, is the Astro- nomer, by Bol.
The last room of this suite con- tains pictures by Flemish and Dutch masters.
In the wing through which the visitor Avill now pass is a copy of RafFaelle's Loggie — executed by the best Italian masters, and this part of the gallery was built for the purpose of receiving them, by the celebrated architect Guarenghi. These magnificent pictures are placed in a more advan-
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ROUTE 93. THE HERMITAGE.
461
tageous light than in Rome itself, and can be better enjoyed here than there. In the passages of the Loggie are displayed some beautiful models in wax and ivory, partly representations of Russian popular life, which every one interested in the study of Russia will contemplate with delight. Among other things there is an exquisitely modelled settlement of Russian peasants in wax ; a wooden dwelling-house, shaded by birch trees, is seen on the borders of a brook; a fisherman is sitting by the brook ; an old bearded peasant is at work in the yard; his daughter is going to the spring; while the old mother be- fore the door is feeding the poultry. In the Loggie is also the greater part of thegemsand cameos, which will, to the lover of art, afford amusement and in- struction for several days. . Room 40 is chiefly occupied by the Malraaison Collection, and contains pictures of the Italian, Dutch, and Flemish schools. Andrea del Sarto, the Visitation ; and the same sub- ject attributed to Raphael ; Claude, Cattle, Paul Potter; a very fine pic- ture, well known by a somewhat indeli- cate name. A collection of several spirited sketches in one frame, by the same master. The Descent from the Cross, Rubens. The same subject, Remhrandt.
Room 41 contains the works of Spanish masters. Bias del Prado, the Virgin and the Saviour ; two fine pic- tures. The Mater Dolorosa, Morales el Divino, The Death of St. Joseph, Velasquez, and portrait of Innocent X., Philip IV. of Spain, and the Duke D'Olivarez, by the same master. Mu- rillo, the Repose in Egypt; a Mar- tyr. Rihera, St. Jerome.
Few specimens of native talent have been thought worthy of a place in this splendid collection ; the only production of a Russian^artist we had our attention drawn to is a picture of Christ appearing in the garden to Mary Magdalene, by an artist of the name of Brum. In the centre room of the first long suite
of apartments facing the river, is a full-length painting of Catherine I., surrounded by the marble busts of various Russian statesmen : this is con- sidered the best likeness of Catherine, and certainly the most flattering ; the features are fine, and the expres- sion of the countenance is mild and pleasing. In another portrait of the Em- press in the long corridor, which is ex- pressly devoted to the portraits of de- ceased members of the Imperial Family (and to views of prominent streets and buildings in the city as they appeared about sixty years ago), she is represented on horseback astride, and in man's attire.
There are some few pictures, the subject of which prevents their being publicly exposed to view; they may be seen on application to M. Laben- sky.
Three or four days at least should be devoted to an inspection of the Her- mitage. Many of the finest pictures occur in the last rooms, and the eye is satiated and the feet weary before reach- ing them. The apartments are mostly decorated with costly ornaments in malachite, marble, or jasper, the mate- rials of which have been found and worked in Siberia.
The Hermitage also contains the Russian Library, consisting of 10,000 volumes in the Russian language, and founded by Catherine II. for the in- struction and amusement of the nu- merous attendants who were attached to her luxurious court, and whose time would have hung heavily on their hands without some such resource.
In the Library are likewise the col- lections of Diderot, Voltaire, the Mar- quis de Gralliani, Nicolai Zimmerman the Philosopher, Busching, Tcherbatof, &c. ; in all 120,000 volumes. The donations of Voltaire contain numerous annotations in his own hand, and there are several unpublished MSS. of the French philosopher, as well as a great number of his thumb-stains and dogs* ears.
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ROUTE 93. — THE MARBLE PALACE.
Sect. V.
It may be mentioned that, in addition to the paintings, drawings, and engrav- ings, there are two rooms filled with a most extraordinary collectionof jewels, cameos, intaglios, medals, snuff-boxes, etuis, ivory carvings, and articles of every kind of vertu; jewels, arms, and ornaments of the ancient Tzars, ormolu knick-knacks, and valuable bizarreries of all sorts. Most of the snuff-boxes are jewelled, and very costly : one pre- sented by the Turkish Sultan to his '•'fond ally," displays a miniature of Mahmoud in his European costume, most beautifully painted on ivory. The entire surface is covered with large diamonds of the best water, and with- in the outer row in each corner is a still larger brilliant, dazzling to look upon. In one room is a superb vase of Siberian jasper of a lilac colour, 5 feet in height, of exquisite form and polish ; in another are two magnificent cande- labra, said to be valued at 9000^. ; two golden tripods, 7 feet high, support- ing the golden salvers on which salt and bread were presented to the Emperor Alexander on his triumphal return from Paris, as emblems of Wisdom and Plenty ; besides these tripods there are two gold salvers presented to the present Emperor at his coronation by the nobility and merchants of St. Petersburgh ; a large musical and magical secretary, which opens spontaneously in a hundred directions at the sound of music, purchased by the late Emperor for eight hundred guineas ; also a clock called the Horloge du Paon, inclosed in a glass case 10 feet high : the form of the clock is the trunk of a tree, the branches and leaves of which are gold ; on the top sits a peacock, and when the chimes begin, it expands its brilliant tail, while an owl rolls its eyes with its own pecu- liar stare, and instead of a bell striking the hour, a golden cock flaps his wings and crows ; this clock is now out of or- der, and the machinery is so complicated that no artist has hitherto been able to repair it. In fact, these treasures seem to realize in all its truth the proverbial
expression of " I'embarras de richesses," and the eye, wearied and satiated with them, reposes with no small satisfac- tion and interest on the simple and un- ostentatious dressing case of the Em- peror Alexander : this is extremely compact and plain, and, judging by so trifling a circumstance, marks the soldier and the sensible man.
We have but touched on some of the treasures of this Palace ; but enough has been said to show that a hermit might boldly renounce the rest of the world if allowed to make his cell here, where half nature and half mankind are offered to his contemplation on canvas, in colour, in marble, glass and ivory, painted, chiselled, stamped, woven, and printed.
The collection of imperial snuff-boxes and articles of vertu, as well as the li- braries, are not always shown to stran- gers ; but, on application being made in person to the Director, permission will readily be obtained. The picture gal- leries of the Hermitage are on the first floor, the large windows of which com- mand a beautiful view of the river. In the court is a garden raised to the level of these rooms, which, with its flowering shrubs and evergreens, has a curious effect; for, from one window the Neva is seen flowing at a depth of about 30 feet below, while on the other side flowers are blooming, and a fountain playing, on a level with the spectator.
The Barracks of the Preobrajensky Regiment of Guards are attached to the Hermitage; this regiment is always on duty at the Palace, and those amongst the officers who are lovers of the fine arts must feel great pleasure in being able so frequently to promenade these splendid rooms, surrounded by some of the best pic- tures in the world. Itis, however, stated that the gallery at the Hermitage is, marvellous to relate, little visited by the higher classes in St. Petersburgh.
A theatre is attached to this Palace, but not of very large dimensions. Per- formances sometimes take place, but there can be but little room for show
Bussia.
ROUTE 93. THE TAUEIDA PALACE.
463
or stage effect. The Court sit on chairs, in the pit, as there are no boxes or di- visions. There is nothing particularly striking in the decorations.
A silver ruble is a sufficient gratuity for a party to give when visiting the Hennitage, though two will of course be better appreciated, and perhaps ex- pected.
THE MARBLE PALACE.
The Hermitage joins the Winter Palace on the east ; then follows the Im- perial theatre, some other palaces, the propert}^ of private persons, and, last of all, the Marble Palace. This was erected by Catherine as a residence for Prince Grregory Orloff, who died before its com- pletion ; and its long fagade, stretching by the river side, denotes that it must have been at one time a handsome pile of building. Without doubt every one on hearing this name will picture to himself an elegant, white, gay-looking palace, shining from afar like a temple of Solomon, on the banks of the Neva, and will be not a little astonished to find it a dark fortress-looking building. Such at least is its appearance amongst the cheerful shining palaces of St. Peters- burgh, though it might not be so striking in gloomier cities. It ought more pro- perly to have been called the Granite Palace, for much more granite and iron have been employed upon it than mar- ble. The extraordinary massive walls are built of blocks of granite ; the sup- ports of the roof are iron beams; the roof itself sheet copper; the window frames gilded copper. This Palace was last inhabited by the Grand Duke Con- stantine, and is now about to be re- cleaned within and without, and sump- tuously furnished and decorated for the residence of the present Grand Duke of the same name.
THE TAURIDA PALACE.
This Palace, a long, low building, with a badly paved court in front and two projecting wings, is situated on the banks of the Neva, about a mile to the
eastward of the Marble Palace. It was named the Taurida in compliment to Potemkin, the conqueror of the Khan of the Crimea, and presented by Ca- therine to that nobleman, and, oddly enough, was subsequently purchased from him. In the favourite's pride of power, and when his inordinate love of show and ostentation animated and adorned its noble apartments, this pa- lace may have realized the expecta- tions raised by its name ; it now looks forlorn, and a picture of deserted magni- ficence. The exterior, however, can never have been beautiful, and the interior has been robbed of the best part of its con- tents to assist in adorning other royal re- sidences. On entering the building the stranger will find himself in a lofty cir- cular hall filled with statues, many of them of average merit. Beyond is a ball-room of extraordinary dimensions, being 320 feet long by 70 feet wide, which, opening on one side to the en- trance-hall, and on the other to an ex- tensive conservatory, from which it is separated only by a row of lofty marble columns, runs the whole length of the Palace. The cicerone asserts that this room is " half a verst " in circum- ference, and to the eye it does not fall far short of that estimate. The co- lumns are encircled by rows of lights coiling round them like serpents, while three enormous chandeliers, each com- posed of two or three large rings, fitted with lights rising one above the other, are suspended from the ceiling. The very shrubs and pillars in the conserva- tory are transformed in like manner, and made to bear their share in the vast illumination ; an idea of its im- mense proportions may be formed from the fact that 20,000 wax-lights are necessary to light it up completely, and that the colossal group of the Laocoon, at one end, can be plainly seen from the other only by means of a telescope. A profusion of statues, many of them well executed, are arranged round this vast apartment, and a copy of the Venus de Medici and an Hermaphro-
464
ROUTE 93. THE OLD MICHAILOFF PALACE. Scct. V.
dite are worthy of observation. In the summer, the orange trees, of which there are great numbers, are removed from the conservatory into the palace gardens. Here Potemkin gave mag- nificent fetes to his imperial mistress, and all that was bright, beautiful, and gay thronged the mazy walks of the orangery in the long winter nights, turning their dulness into the wild revelry of a southern carnival. It must have been like magic to have passed from the frozen and snow- covered earth without to this magni- ficent ball-room, illuminated with its thousands of lights, and perfumes that carried the imagination to regions where an icicle was never seen, and the northern blast never felt; at these festivals the musicians were suspended in the chandeliers. The last grand festi- val given in this palace was on the oc- casion of the marriage of the Grand Duke Michael, when the present decorations were made. The marble is all false, the silver is plated copper, many of the pillars and statues are of brick and plaster, and the pictures of equivocal originality ; the looking-glasses, though 10 feet wide and lofty in proportion, are so badly made that on examination the surface is found to be all in waves and full of bubbles, and it is evident they belong to a very early period of the St. Petersburgh manufactory. The Taurida, now a kind of Hampton Court, and inhabited by a few superannuated ladies of the haut-ton, is sometimes used as a place of reception for the Emperor's guests; here once resided Louisa, the beaiitiful but unfortunate Queen of Prussia ; it was also tenanted by the Persian Prince Chozro Mirza, during his embassy, when he came to deprecate the wrath of the mighty Tzar, and lastly, in 1830, by Oscar, Crown Prince of Sweden. The Em- peror Paul turned the entire Palace into a barrack for his guards, but his son and successor restored it to its ori- ginal purpose of a royal residence. It is still thickly garrisoned with impe-
perial footmen, and kept in pretty good order; but it nevertheless, from the ab- sence of furniture, looks, as before re- marked, deserted and melancholy. The gardens are accessible to the public; they are tastefully laid out, and, con- sidering their vicinity to so large a city, their extent is immense. A table cover, on which are some drops of wax which fell from the candles of Alex- ander, who frequently inhabited some apartments here, and some crayon drawings by his admirable consort Elizabeth, and other objects of the same kind, have a certain degree of interest.
MICHAILOFF PALACE.
This Palace, or rather Castle, staifds on the site of the old Summer Palace on the Fontanka, which was pulled down by the Emperor Paul, who built this of granite in its stead, and fortified it as a place of defence ; and according to Rus- sian custom, which dedicates to pro- tecting saints and angels, not churches only, but fortresses, castles, and other buildings, it was dedicated to the Arch- angel Michael. The castle has a more gloom}'" exterior than the other palaces of St. Petersburgh, and is of an extraor- dinary style of architecture. It is in the form of a square, whose four facades all differ in style one from the other ; the ditches, which originally surrounded it, are now partly filled up and laid out in gardens, but the principal entrance is still over some drawbridges. In the square before the chief gate stands a monument, insignificant enough as a work of art, which Paul erected to Peter the Great, with the inscription " Prodadu Pravnuk " (the Grandson to the Grandfather) ; over the principal door, which is overloaded with archi- tectural ornaments, is inscribed in golden letters a passage from the Bible in the old Slavonian language : " On thy house will the blessing of the Lord rest for evermore,"
" This Palace was built with extraor- dinary rapidity, 5000 men were em-
Russia. KOUTE 93. — palace of the geakd duke michael. 465
ployed on it daily till finished ; and, the more quickly to dry the walls, large iron plateswere madehotand fastenedto them for a time ; the result was that soon after the Emperor's death it was abandoned as quite uninhabitable ; the cost of build- ing it is said to have been 18,000,000 rubles ; had sufficent time been taken, it would not have amounted to six. The halls and apartments of the castle are large and numerous. A fine marble staircase leads to the first story, and the vestibules and corridors are paved with beautiful kinds of marble. The floorines of the saloons were taken from the Taurida Palace, because the new ones were not ready. They have since been restored to their old places. The room in which the Emperor Paul died is sealed and walled up. The Rus- sians generally do this with the room in which their parents die. They have a certain dread of it, and never enter it willingly. The Emperor Alexander never entered one of them. The pre- sent Emperor, who dreaded neither the cholera in Moscow, nor revolt in St. Petersburgh,nor the dagger in Warsaw, but shows a bold countenance every- where, has viewed these rooms several times. The apartment in which the Emperor Paul died is easily recogni- zable from without by the darkened and dusty windows on the second story. The apartments of the beautiful Lapuchin are directly under, on the first floor. They are now inhabited by the keeper of the castle. The stairs which led down from them are broken away. During the reign of Alexander the castle fell so much into decay, that when the present Emperor caused it to be restored it is said to have cost 60,000 rubles merely to remove the dirt and rubbish. The painted ceilings have considerable interest. In one is represented the revival of the order of Malta, and Ruthenia, a beautiful virgin, with the features of Paul, seated on a mountain. Near her, the mighty eagle. Fame, flying from the south in terror, announces the injustice done her in the
Mediterranean, and entreats the mighty eagle to shelter her under his wing. In the distance is seen the island threatened by the waves and the hostile fleets. In another hall all the gods of Greece are assembled, whose various physiognomies are those of persons of the Court. The architect, whose purse profited considerably by the building of the castle, appears among them as a flying Mercury. When Paul, who was a ready punster, and who knew very well that all the money he paid was not changed into stone and wood, caused the difl'erent faces to be pointed out to him, he re- cognised the face of the Mercury directly, and said laughing to his courtiers, ' Ah ! voila I'architecte, qui vole.'"
The old Michailoff Palace is now the abode of the school of engineers.
THE ANNITCHKOFF PALACE.
This Palace, which stands on the Great Prospekt, in the neighbourhood of the Fontanka canal, and closes the brilliant ranges of palaces in that street, is not unfrequently inhabited by the Emperor. It was originally built by the Empress Elizabeth, and bestowed on Count Razumoffsky ; then twice purchased by Catherine, and twice given to Prince Potemkin. This is on the authority of Kohl. Another writer believes this palace to have been built by a merchant of the name it bears, and sold by him to one of the Tzars. It is now the favourite residence of the Imperial family,and handsomely built, but has no particular historical interest. Here also the Emperor Nicholas holds the greater number of his councils, receives ambas- sadors, &c. Hence the cabinet of St. Petersburgh may be called the cabinet of Annitchkoff, as that of London is called the cabinet of St. James's, &c.
THE PALACE OF THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL.
There can be no doubt that the New Michailoff Palace, the residence of the
4()6
EOUTE 93. — THE IMPERIAL LIBRAKY.
Sect. V.
Emperor's brother, is the most elegant building in St. Petersburgh. It was built in 1820, by an Italian archi- tect of the name of Rossi. The inte- rior is also decidedly the handsomest andmost tasteful in decoration and fur- niture of all the royal residences ; its position too is highly striking, quite as much so as that of the Winter Palace. Open on all sides, it expands its wings and court-yards in a most graceful manner ; not a tower, house, or any other building being near to disturb its -outline. Behind the Palace lies the Little Summer Gar- den, as it is called, whose lofty trees and groups of foliage form a pleasing contrast with its elegant architectural proportions. Before the chief front is a spacious lawn, scat- tered over graceful flowers, and shrubs. An iron Grille, the design of which is a model of good taste, di- vides the inner from the outer court, and the outbuildings, offices, and courts between them are in such harmony with each other and the main buildings that it is evident the whole was one design, and that nothing has been the result of after thought. All the buildings which surround this Palace are occupied by the establishment of the Grand Duke ; so much so that this quarter of the city might almost be called his kingdom. Here reside his staff and the officers of his household ; the stables and riding school are particu- larly worthy of attention, and the latter is deserving of especial mention. In this school 50 young men are in- structed in riding and in all arts that have reference to the manege; for this object, and for the fetes in the riding- house, at which the Court is often pre- sent, a number of the finest horses are kept, and both men and horses are so well cared for, that it is a pleasure to walk through the range of elegant dor- mitories, sitting, school, and saddle rooms. All these apartments have double folding doors in the centre, which stand open the whole day. A
long carpet is laid along all the floors down to the stable, and the inspector can overlook everything at a glance, and see what the young cadets are doing in their apartments. Kohl al- ludes particularly to the ventilation, and remarks that " it is wonderful how pure the air is kept, it is as if the stud were perfumed with Eau de Co- logne as well as the cadets." Their course of preparation extends over six years, and ten take their leave every year and join the army as riding masters. Quadrilles and tournaments are sometimes performed by these 3'ouths and their horses in the presence of the Court; these jousts sometimes take place in the evening, Avhen the riding-school is splendidly illuminated and decorated for the occasion ; among other wonders exhibited at these fetes are six looking glasses, so large that in them the cavaliers can see themselves from head to foot.
Permission may be obtained to view this palace of the Grand Duke Michael from the Castalantchih during the summer months.
THE IMPERIAL LIBRARY,
One of the most extensive in Europe, is near the Kazan Church, and occupies a large building, which, with the Annitch-^ koff Palace, the Alexander Theatre, and that part of the Nevskoi Prospekt facing it, forms one of the finest squares in St. Petersburgh. This library is open daily for reading, and on every Tuesday for public inspection. Itcontains400,000 volumes, and about 15,000 MSS., viz., 7200 Latin, 2200 French, 1954 Sclavonic— 1250 Polish, 1868 Ger- man. The greater part of this valuable collection formed a portion of the spoils of Poland. The Count Stanislas Za- luski, bishop of Cracow, founded a splendid library, which was further increased by his descendants, and An- drew Zaluski, bishop of Kief, be- queathed it to his country. In the middle of the eighteenth century it was transferred to Warsaw, and is said
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then to have contained 300,000 vo- lumes. When Suwaroff conquered Poland, Catherine II. directed the library to be transferred to St. Peters- burgh. It was further increased, in 1833, by that of the Prince Czarto- risky, taken in the Polish campaign, and by a further importation from Poland of 150,000 volumes. The va- luable books and MSS. of Peter Dom- browski, purchased during the early troubles of the French revolution, were afterwards added to this vast collection. The MSS. chiefly relate to the history of France, and form an invaluable series. They consist of letters from various kings of France and their am- bassadors at foreign courts, reports, secret state documents, and correspond- ence of European sovereigns. These in- teresting papers were dragged from the archives of Paris by an infuriated popu- lace, and sold to the first bidder. Dom- browski purchased them ; and thus some of the most valuable of the state papers of France adorn the library of St. Peters- burgh. A volume of MSS. letters from English sovereigns is exceedingly inter- esting. The library and MSS. of Count Schutelen have lately been added ; and the num erous acquisitions of M S S . during the wars with Turkey, Circassia, and Persia, have contributed to form one of the finest collections in the world. The printed volumes are catalogued in MS., according to language, names of authors, and matter ; and there is now a catalogue of the MSS. A list of the most curious may be useful : — The Ostromir MS., the oldest extant Rus- sian manuscript, was written for a private person residing at Ostromir, and is in the Slavonian character, which bears much resemblance to the Greek. It contains the Evangelista- rium, or Evangelists, as read in the Gfreek church, and bears the date of 1056, about fifty years after Chris- tianity was introduced into Russia. A Codex, containing the four evange- lists, on purple vellum and in letters of gold. M. Edouard de Muralt, minis-
ter of the Reformed church, and the learned editor of an edition of Minu- tius Felix, has published an account of this MS., with a facsimile of the cha- racter. It was taken by the Russian troops under Field-marshal Count Paske- witch, during the Russian war in Asia Minor, a.d. 1829. For some centuries it had remained in the convent of St. John, near the village of Jumisch Khan, and was supposed to be the work of the Empress Theodora. Several characteristic marks denote it to be of the ninth or tenth century ; and, if it be really from the pen of so illustrious a personage, we may conclude that it was written by the Empress Theodora, wife of the Emperor Theophilus, who lived in the middle of the ninth cen- tury. The characters are clear and accurately formed ; nor are the con- tractions numerous. The marginal notes are in letters of silver. Age has altered the colour of the parchment, which is now almost black ; the gold still retains much of its original bright- ness. The MS. is interesting in many respects to the theologian. There is too the Codex San Germanensis, formerly appertaining to the celebrated convent of St. Germains. It contains the epistles of St. Paul, and has been referred to the seventh century. Several Latin MSS. of the fifth century, among which may be mentioned the six books De Civitate Dei ; one of the most ancient MSS. of the works of St. Gregory, copied by Paul of Aquileia; in the same volume is a letter of Paul the Deacon, the histo- rian of the Lombards, to Adalhard, abbot of Corbie. The works of Isidore of Seville, seventh century, Historia Ecclesiastica tripartita et Collecta in unum ex Socrate, Sozomeno, et Theo- dorito, in Latinum, translata a Cassio- doro, Senatore et Epiphanio. In the first page we read, ' Hie codex hero in- sula scriptus fuit jubente sancto patre Adalhardo dum exularit ibi.' Adal- hard was abbot of Corbie in 774. CoUectiones Cassiani, from the Abbey of Corbie of the seventh century. The
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Sect. V.
works of St. Ambrose, of the eighth century ; of Menaeus Felix Capella, of Cicero, of Columella, of the ninth century ; several religious compositions, and MSS. of various portions of the Scriptures, brought from a convent on Mount Athos, chiefly of the ninth century ; and numerous richly illumi- nated MSS. from Byzantium, adorned with miniatures. The history of Eu- tropius, which M. de Muralt believes as ancient as the end of the ninth cen- tury, and consequently one of the oldest extant of the works of that author. Among the works of the early French writers may be mentioned, ' Les Amours de Rene, Roy de Naples et de Sicile, et de Jeanne, Ville de Gruy, Comte de Laual, qu'il epousa en seconde noces,' rich in designs, which, though extravagant enough, still retain much brightness of colour. The book concludes with the following lines, be- neath the arms of Anjou, Naples, and Laual.
Icy sont les artnes dessoubs ceste couronne Du Bergier dessudit et de la Bergeronne.
It is said to be an autograph work of Rene ; but this may be doubted. The ' Roman de Troye,' from the library of Charles V., very rich in miniatures and arabesques. Breviare d' Amour; Jeu d' Amour, very curious ; Roman de la Rose ; and the works of Guillaume de Guilleville ; a Seneca and Cicero, with exquisite miniatures, by John of Bruges ; the Works of St. Jerome, splendidly illuminated; the Missal of Louisa of Savoy, adorned with twenty- four miniatures, said to have been exe- cuted under the direction of Leonardo da Vinci. Among French historical works in MS. may be mentioned, Histoire de Grodefroy de Bouillon, of the thirteenth century ; ' De Origine et Gestis Francorum,' of the eleventh century ; Les Livres Historiaux, of the fourteenth century ; Les Chroniques de Jehan de Courcy, 2 vols, in folio ; the original MS. of the History of France of Du Tillet, dedicated to Charles IX.,
and adorned with miniatures of the kings of France, «&c. " There is also a missal here of great interest to the English- man as it formerly belonged to Mary Queen of Scots : it is quite perfect, except that in the illuminations, with which it is abundantly ornamented, there have once been numerous coats of arms, every one of which, from the beginning of the book to the end, has been carefully erased and the shield left vacant. It is difficult to guess with what object this has been done, as no other mutilation is apparent. The chief interest of this missal lies in numerous scraps of the queen's hand- writing which are to be found in it, breathing, in general, of her unhappy fortunes ; though, it must be owned, much cannot be said in favour of her poetry, the exact meaning of which is not always very clear. Near the be- ginning is written across the bottom of the two pages, '* Ce livi-e est a moi." Marie Reyne, 1553 — the last figure is very indistinct.
In another page are written the fol- lowing lines in the queen's hand : —
Un cceur que I'Dutrage martire Par un mepris ou d'un r^fus
A le pouvoir de faire dire, Je ne suis pas ce que ce fus.
Marie.
In another place, in the same writing, are these verses : —
Qui iamais davantage eust contraire le sort
Si la vie m'est moins utile que la mort, Et plutost que chager, de mes maus I'adven- ture, Chacun change pour moi d'humeur et de nature.
Marie R.
Below these lines the queen has scrawled a memorandum — " escrire au Secretare pour Douglas."
In a collection of original letters, is one from Mary to the King of France, written during her imprison- ment, in which, addressing the king as Monsieur Mon Frere, and sign- ing herself votre bonne sceur Marie, she speaks of Douglas, recommending
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him to the future favour of his most Christian Majesty, whom she at the same time thanks for his attention to her former request in behalf of the same person. In another letter from Fotheringay Castle, the unhappy queen expresses her too well-grounded fear of never being released from prison. This collection includes autographs of Henry VII., HenryVIII., Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., and his Queen Henrietta, with those of many distinguished per- sons. Among others, Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, in whose hand are two or three letters to the King of France, expressing the deepest gratitude and devotion to his most Christian Majesty, and entreating for a continuance of his favour. " I am afraid," remarks Mr. Venables, " that Queen Elizabeth would not have been altogether pleased with the tone of these epistles. Among the most interesting letters is a long one dated at St. Germains, from Hen- rietta, Queen of Charles I., to the Sieur Grrignon, begging him, if possi- ble, to procure from the S])calcers of the two Houses and<he General a pass for herself and her attendants to enable her to visit her husband in England, and to remain with him as long as can be permitted. The queen expresses her fears that this pass will be refused, but she reminds the Sieur Grignon how much she has the object at heart, and assures him of her eternal gratitude if he succeeds. She then offers to make out for the inspection of the Speakers and the General a list of the attend- ants whom she proposes to bring with her, in order that the name of any person to whom they object msij be omitted in the pass. Amongst the letters of French monarchs are those of Louis XI., Charles VIII., Anne of Bretagne, Louis XII., Francis I., Henry IV., and Louis XIV. A writing exercise of the latter prince consists of this liberal maxim — " Les rois font ce qu'ils veulent il faut leur obeir." It is repeated six times, and, as history has proved.
with considerable effect. The catalogue of M. Adelung contains an account of the vast historical riches Avhich, pur- chased in France at an insignificant price, are now deposited in this Librarj'.
The collection of Oriental MSS. is most extensive. Several extracts from the Koran, in the Cufic character, are said to have belonged to Fatiraa, the favourite daughter of Mahomet. Two presses in the Manuscript Room are filled with the spoils of the last war with Persia, and a collection of MSS., of extraordinary beauty, presented to the present Emperor by the Shah of Persia in 1829, is also to be seen. It would be impossible to enumerate even the most remarkable objects of this vast collection of works from every nation of Asia. The traveller will find occupation for days if he be inclined to inspect with any degree of minuteness these literary treasures. Mons. Mural, the keeper of the MSS., is almost al- ways at his post, both ready and will- ing to show them to the visitor; or, in his place, Mons. Gottwald, the orien- talist, who has apartments adjoining the Library, and speaks English.
The printed volumes are arranged against the walls of the apartment, and on double shelves, which stand at some distance on either side.
THE KAZAN CATHEDRAL.
St. Petersburgh, like Berlin, is a creation of modern daj^s, and in opposi- tion to Moscow, as Berlin to Vienna, has neither so many nor such remark- able churches as the old capital, though ^some are built in a pleasing style of architecture. The modern Russian church is a mixture of the Grecian, Byzantine, and Tartar; the Byzantine, which was brought from Constantinople with Christianity, being the most pro- minent. As this cathedral will pro- bably be the first church the traveller will visit, it may be useful to describe here the external features of a Russian place of worship. In the first place.
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the plan of the building is a Greek cross, with four equal arms; in the midst, a large dome painted green or blue ; at the four ends, four narrow-pointed cu- polas, their summits surmounted by four crosses ; in front, a grand entrance adorned with many columns, and three side entrances without columns. The difference between the Greek and Latin cross with aisles is evident. 8uch is the exterior form of the greater portion of Eussian churches, including the thirty of St. Petersburgh, about one- tenth of the number dispersed through Moscow the Holy. The interiors of those in the new capital are lighter, brighter, and more simple ; in the old, darker, more overloaded with orna- ment, more varied in colour, and gro- tesque.
The Metropolitan church of St. Petersburgh, dedicated to our Lady of Kazan, stands conspicuously on the right of the Nevskoi Prospekt, about half a mile from the Admiralty Square, and retired from the street. A semicircular colonnade of Corinthian pillars, the two extremities of which project almost to the front of the houses, forms a screen to the cathedral itself, and the dome rises immediately behind the centre of the colonnade, where the chief entrance is situated. In any other place the effect of this semicircular line of columns would be imposing ; but here, where everything around is on so vast a scale, it looks the ver}' reverse : the columns are not so high as the adjoining houses, and evon the dome is deficient in elevation. The Russians wish to unite in their capital all that is grand or beautiful in the whole civilized world, and this is intended for a copy of St. Peter's at Rome ; but the puny effort is almost comic in its contrast to the mighty work of Buonarotti : the colonnade of pillars, which in Rome seemed necessary and suitable to circumstances, is here a su- perfluous and incomprehensible append- age. As an exception to the rule, one tran- sept in the Kazan Cathedral is shorter
than the others ; not, however, as some have alleged, from the peculiar form of the Greek cross,but simply from the want of space on the canal side to continue the building. The eastern arm of the cross answers to our chancel, and, in all Greek churches is looked upon as the Holy of Holies, shut off from the rest of the building by a screen called the Ikonostast. This is set apart for the priests. Laymen may enter, but no women ; not even the Empress can go into that mysterious inclosure. Here stands a throne called the " Prestol," a kind of altar, beneath a sumptuous canopy frequently adorned with pre- cious stones. The throne stands on a carpet, which reaches under the closed doors of the screen, and this, on solemn occasions, is spread out to a low square platform, erected immediately beneath the central dome ; on this holy carpet no footstep, save that of the priest, dare press. Behind and in front of the screen the ceremonies and service are performed; the formalities are great; robes of costly materials are frequently changed ; the genuflections are nume- rous and very low; incense is much used ; there is no organ or other in- strumental music, but the chanting is peculiar and striking, and the priests are splendid-looking men, with long flowing beards, which harmonize well with the oriental style of their robes. Sermons, so much thought of in other countries, form but a small portion of the Russian church service ; a short discourse, a few times in the year, is the only homily which a Greek priest de- livers to his flock, except at their homes, where he visits them frequently. At the Imperial chapel, the Nevskoi monastery, and the Donskoi and Semi- noff at Moscow, the singing is very fine. The bass voices are superb, and a kind of chant, which they keep up in unison while the priest is officiating, is not easily to be compared with any other church music. It has somewhat the effect of as many double basses all executing the same short arpeggio pas-
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sage, and repeating it without any variation in the chord, time, or tone : when frequently heard, it is therefore tedious. One of the most impressive portions of the service is towards the close ; the doors of the Ikonostast are then shut, the chaunting ceases, the incense-bearers withdraw, and every one seems breathless with attention ; at length the folding doors in the centre are reopened and thrown back, and the priest, generally, as before stated, of gigantic proportions, and carrying on his head an enormous volume, which he steadies with both hands, comes forward and commences a long recita- tive; during this every one bends low in a humble attitude of adoration : the large volume contains the gospels ; the prayer is for the Emperor. The sensation on this occasion, observes a recent traveller, more than equals that usually seen in Roman Catholic churches at the elevation of the Host. With this prestige for their sovereign, what might not the Russians do if cir- cumstances should engage them in a national cause 1 In Roman Catholic countries the church-goers are almost exclusively women ; and in France, Southern Germany, and parts of Italy, a man in the prime of life is rarely seen within the walls of a church, except as a mere spectator. In Russia it is otherwise ; and the outward forms of the Greek church seem to have taken as firm and enduring a hold of the men as of the women, all classes alike participating in this strong feeling of external devotion. The first pro- ceeding of a Russian on entering a church is to purchase a wax candle, a plentiful supply of which is generally kept near the door, and the sale of which must constitute a very lucrative traffic ; bearing this in one hand he slowly approaches the shrine of the Virgin, before which a silver lamp burns day and night : at a considerable distance from it he sinks on one knee, bowing his head to the pavement, and crossing his breast repeatedly with the
thumb and two forefingers of his right hand ; having at length reached the shrine itself, he lights his votive candle at the holy lamp, and sets it up in one of the various holes in a large silver plate provided for the purpose, and falling low on his bended knees kisses the pavement before the altar. His prayers are few and short, and he retires slowly with his face to the altar, kneeling and crossing himself at intervals.
This kindling of lamps and tapers in Russian churches is a pleasing custom ; the little flame is so living a symbol of the continued life of the soul, and, be- yond all other material things, flame is the best representation of the spiritual. The Russians ?iave so closely adopted this idea that there is no interment, no baptism, no betrothing, in short, no sacred ceremony, without torch, lamp, or taper, to be thought of; fire is for them the pledge of the presence of the Holy Spirit ; and hence illuminations play the most important part in the ceremonies of the Greek church. Al- though the Greek faith does not permit the introduction of images into their churches, its votaries are scarcely satis- fied with mere pictures ; they are fre- quently ornamented with materials of dress and jewellery, and, accordingly, the face of the Virgin is the only part of the painting exposed to view, while the dress is covered with plates of silver or gold, and the headis almost universally adorned with a crown of jewels. The pictures are, generally speaking, mere heads of saints, very indifferently exe- cuted. Many of the jewels, however, are of great size and beauty. One of the diamonds in the Virgin's crown of our Lady of Kazan is considered second only to the famous diamond of the Emperor ; the water is questionable, but it is certainly a very large stone. In the Place before the cathedral of Kazan are two well-executed statues, one of Kutuzoff, Prince of Smolensko, the other of Barclay de Tolly. The grand entrance door in the centre be- .
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ROUTE 93. KAZAN CATHEDRAL.
Sect. y.
ncath the peristyle is of bronze, di- vided into ten compartments, each containing a subject in bas-relief from the Old Testament ; the intermediate spaces are ornamented with figures of saints in high relief, and heads in cir- cular frames. The workmanship is inferior, at least it will be thought so by any one who has seen the gates of the Battisteria at Florence.
The interior is little suited to the wants of divine service as performed in Russia; and the altar is awkwardly placed at the side instead of opposite the chief entrance. In the niches along the sides of the church are colossal statues of the Grrand Duke Vladimir and Alexander Nevsky, St. John and St. Andrew ; the general effect within is dark and confined, and one cannot help lamenting that the fifty- six mono- liths, the mighty giants which support the little roof, are not employed in a work more worthy of them. Apart from these architectural discords, the church is not wanting in interest. First of all, the eye is attracted by the silver of the Ikonostast (the pictorial wall of the sanctuary). The balustrades, doors, and doorways of the Ikonostasts are generally' of wood carved and gilded, but in this church all its beams and posts are of massive silver. The pil- lars of the balustrade round the holy place, the posts of the three doors, the arches twenty feet in height above the altar, and the frames of the pictures are also of fine silver. The silver beams are all highly polished, and reflect with dazzling brilliancy the light of the thousand tapers that burn before them. We could not learn how many hundred weight of silver were emplo3'ed, but doubtless many thousands of dozens of French and German spoons, and hun- dreds of soup-tureens and tea-pots must have been melted down to furnish the material; for it was the Cossacks, laden with no inconsiderable booty from the campaigns of 1813 and 1814, who made an offering of this mass of silver to the Holy Mother of Kazan, for the
object to which it is now appropriated. Platoff also, having secured some booty in the retreat of the French, sent it to the Metropolitan, directing that it should be made into statues of the four Evangelists, and adorn the Church of the Mother of Grod of Kazan. The Cossacks seem to have a peculiar venera- tion for this Madonna, who is half their countrywoman, for Ivan Vassilievitch brought her from Kazan to Moscow, whence Peter the Great transported her to St. Petersburgh. Her picture, set with pearls and precious stones, hangs in this church. It was before this pic- ture that Kutuzoif prayed before he advanced to meet the enemy, in 1812, for which reason she is considered to be closely connected with that cam- paign. Here, also, and standing in the shadow of the faded banners of his ene- mies, is the monument of that distin- guished man, on which no one who remembers his successful and patriotic services can look unmoved. Daunt- less amid a despairing nation, he nobly sustained the courage of the monarch and the drooping valour of the Russian troops; but for him the battle of the Moskva might never have been fought, and Napoleon would have marched without a blow to Moscow, and per- haps to St. Petersburgh. Amid the tears and blessings of his fellow-citizens he left the capital to take the command of the army, who trusted in none save him. He vowed solemnly to return triumphant, or to end on the field of honour that long life that had been spent in the service of his country. Well may Russsia be proud of such a son, and give his remains all the honours it was in her power to bestow. The cotip d'ceil, on entering this house of prayer, is rather that of an arsenal than a church, and this maybe said of many other churches in this capital; for they are more or less adorned with military trophies taken from various nations of Europe and Asia. Here are to be seen the crimson flags of the Persians, which may be easily distin-
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guished by a silver hand, as large as life, fastened to the end; also many Turkish standards, surmounted by the crescent, large unsoiled pieces of cloth, for the most part red, and so new and spotless that they might be sold again to the merchant by the ell, and giving the impression that they were surrendered without any very great struggle. Not so the French colours, which hang near them, and which offer a strong contrast ; they are rent to pieces, and to several of the seventeen eagles only a single fragment is attached; these, with their expanded wings, with which they vainly sought to cover the whole of Europe, look strange enough in the place they now roost in. Amongst these tattered banners is one of white silk, on which the words " Garde National e de Paris " are visible : here, too, may be seen the long streamers of the wild tribes of the Caucasus and the silver eagles of Poland; and, lastly, the marshal's baton of Davoust, Prince of Eckmiihl, the *' Hamburg Robespierre," whose atro- cities will be remembered as long as a stone of that city exists under its pre- sent name. This trophy, which is kept under a glass case, was taken in the disastrous retreat of 1812; it is said to have been lost in the wild con- fusion that everywhere prevailed, and was afterwards picked up by some straggling Cossack. Keys of many German, French, and Netherland towns, before whose gates a Russian trumpet has blown in triumph, also grace the pillars of this cathedral ; amongst them are those of Hamburg, Leipsic, Dres- den, Rheiras, Breda, and Utrecht, in all twenty-eight pair. To a Protest- ant these trophies and the tawdry paintings, gilding, and jewelry com- pletely destroy all ideas of a devotional character. As the members of the Greek religion pray standing, the in- terior of their churches is always devoid of pew, bench, or chair, but there is in every church a place set apart for the Emperor to stand in, which is raised above the floor, and usually covered
with a canopy, or small dome. An exception is, we believe, made in favour of the Empress, on account of ill health.
THE IZAK CHUECH.
This edifice cannot fail to excite the admiration of those who appreciate grand proportions, a simple but lofty style of architecture, and noble porticoes. The situation also is highly suitable, for it stands in one of the largest open spaces in the capital, surrounded by its finest buildings and monuments, and it will give the stranger some idea of what Russian quarries, Russian mines and workmen, and a French architect, Monsieur Montferrand, can produce. Nothing can exceed the simplicity of the model; no ornament meets the eye ; the architect has left all to the impres- sion to be produced by its stupendous proportions. The original design of the cathedral at Cologne is said to be on a much smaller scale ; the transept alone is a building of great magnitude. On the spot where the Izak Church stands, the Russians have been at work upon a place of worship for the last century. The original one was in wood, but this was subsequently de- stroyed, and the Great Catherine com- menced another, which she intended to face Avith marble, and which, like many other of her undertakings, was never finished. The Emperor Paul continued the building, but in brick. This half-and-half edifice vanished, how- ever, in its turn, and under Nicholas I. the present magnificent structure has been erected, such a one as we think will scarcely find so splendid a suc- cessor. To make a firm foundation, a whole forest of piles was sunk in the swampy soil, at a cost of 200,000/. The present building is, as usual, in the form of a Greek cross, of four equal sides, and each of the four grand en- trances is approached from the level of the Place by three broad flights of steps, each whole flight being composed of one entire piece of granite, formed
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Sect. V.
out of masses of rock brought from Fin- land. These steps lead from the four sides of the building to the four chief entrances, each of which has a superb peristyle. The pillars of these peri- styles are 60 feet high, and have a dia- meter of 7 feet, all magnificent round and highly polished granite monoliths, from Finland, buried for centuries in its swamps, till brought to light by the tri- umphant power of Russia. They are crowned with Corinthian capitals of bronze, and support the enormous beam of a frieze formed of six fire-polished blocks. Over the peristyles, and at twice their height, rises the chief and central cupola, higher than it is wide, in the Byzantine proportion. It is supported also by thirty pillars of smooth polished granite, which, although gigantic in themselves, look small compared to those below. The cupola is covered with copper overlaid with gold, and glitters like the sun over a mountain. From its centre rises a small elegar.t rotunda, a miniature repetition of the whole, looking like a chapel on the mountain top. The whole edifice is surrounded by the crowning and far- seen golden cross. Four smaller cu- polas, resembling the greater in every particular, stand around, like children round a mother, and complete the har- mony visible in every part. The walls of the church are covered Avith marble, and no doubt the Izak Church is the most remarkable one in St. Peters- burgh, and will supersede the Kazan Church of the Virgin, for great state festivals. The embellishments of the facjade and windows have been en- trusted to various artists. The group of figures on the pediment of one of the former was designed by a Frenchman, a Monsieur Le Maire'; the subject is the Angel at the Tomb, with the Mag- dalen and other female figures on the one side, and the terrified soldiers in every attitude of consternation on the other; these figures are eight feet in height, and bronze gilt. The great dome is of iron, and, as well as the whole
of the bronze work, was manufactured at the celebrated foundry of Mr.'Baird, of St. Petersburgh, whose well-known courtesy will enable any Englishman to see everything connected with his establishment. The interior of the Izak Church is far from being finished, but if the present design is carried out it will be a mass of precious metals and stones. The malachite columns for the ikonostast, or screen, are 50 feet in height, and exceed anything that has yet been done in that beautiful fabric.
The prestol for the inmost shrine is a small circular temple, the dome sup- ported by eight Corinthian pillars of malachite, about eight feet high, with gilt bases and capitals ; the exterior of the dome is covered with a profusion of gilding on a ground of malachite, and the interior is of lapis lazuli. The floor is of polished marbles of various colours, which have been found in the Russian dominions, and the whole is raised on steps of polished porphyry. There is, perhaps, too much gilding about this very beautiful work, but this is in accordance with its position in a Greek church. It was presented to the Em- peror by Monsieur Demidoff, who pro- cured the malachite fi-om his mines in Siberia, and sent it to Italy to be worked; its value is said to be as much as 1,000,000 of rubles.
From the rotunda over the great dome there is a fine view of the capital when the day is bright and clear, which is generally the case in the summer; the eye then wanders unobstructed over the whole extent of the imperial city; the broad Neva spreads its " breast of waters " in the warm sunshine for many a mile, hemmed in at first be- tween those massive quays of granite which have not their equal in Europe, and reflecting on its calm surface store- house and palace, but beyond, no longer subject to man's control, its wide stream expanding forth flows beneath the wooded shores of Peterhofi" and Ora- nienbaum, where the wearied eye can follow its course no longer. Our jour-
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ney to the top of the Izak Church was by daylight, but, if it be possible to obtain permission, we would recom- mend a pilgrimage to the summit in one of the rosy nights of a northern summer; the view at that hour must be very striking and beautiful.
THE SMOLNOI CHURCH.
A long jolting ride. will bring the traveller to the " Institution des De- moiselles Nobles," at the end of Sun- day Street, situated on a gentle ele- vation, round which the Neva bends to the west. This structure, originally a convent, is a vast pile of building. The church is of white marble, with five blue domes spangled with golden stars; and the interior is an exception to the surcharged style of every other in St, Petersburgh; its walls of stainless white being unpolluted by flag, banner, or trophy that tells of strife and blood. A high and beautifully designed iron grating, whose rails, or rather pillars, are wound round with wreaths of vine leaves and flowers, in iron work, sur- round the court-yard, and above it wave the elegant birch and lime trees, whose foliage is peculiarly attractive where trees are as scarce as they are in St. Petersburgh. This edifice may be seen from the eastern suburb, from the extremity of Sunday Street, a mile and a half in length, and from all quarters of the city. The orthodox believers bow and cross themselves at the sight of its cupolas. Amongst the lower classes, the devotional feeling is so strong, that some droshky drivers, not content with pulling their hats oiF at every church they pass, will invite their fares to descend at least fifty yards from the church door.
" The church of Smolnoi, which is open to the public as a place of wor- ship, has something extremely pleasing in its style of decoration; only two colours are to be seen, that of the gold framework of the ornamental objects, and of the white imitative marble,
highly polished, and covering all the walls, pillars, and arches. Several galleries, which are illuminated on high festival days, run like garlands round the interior of the dome. Not less than four-and-twenty stoves of gigantic dimensions are scattered about the church, which they keep at the tem- perature of a study, and greet all that enter with true Christian warmth. These stoves are built like little chapels, so that at first they are taken for church ornaments. The Russians love pomp and splendour in their churches; in this, the balustrades surrounding the Ikonostast are of the finest glass, the doors are formed of golden columns twined and interlaced with vine leaves and ears of corn in carved and gilded wood. The pictures of this Ikonostast are all new, painted by the pupils of the St. Petersburgh Academy. The faces of the apostles and saints, of the Madonna and of the Redeemer, in the old Russian pictures, have all the well- known Byzantine or Indian physiog- nomy on the handkerchief of St. Vero- nica in Boissere's collection; small long- cut eyes, dark complexion, excessively thin cheeks, a small mouth, thin lips, slender ringlets, and a scanty beard; the nose uncommonly sharp and pointed, quite vanishing at the root between the eyes, and the head very round. In the new pictures of the Russian school, they have copied the national physiognomy as seen in the Russian merchants; full red cheeks, a long beard, light and abundant hair, large blue eyes, and a blunted nose. It is wonderful that the Russian clergy have> permitted this deviation from the old models; the new ones, however, are held in very little respect by the peo- ple, who reverence only the old dilsty and dusky saints, and are as little inclined to accept faces they can under- stand, as to hear divine service in a language they can comprehend, for the old Slavonian dialect, which continues to be used, is unintelligible to them." On either side of the church is the
476 EOUTE 93. MONASTEET OF ST. ALEXANDER NEVSKOT. Sect. V.
Institution des Demoiselles Nobles, a building dedicated to the education of young girls of noble and citizen birth, of whom not less than 500 are brought up at the cost of the government, and 800 at the expense of their own fa- milies. The Empress Maria, the foun- dress and benefactress " of the convent, has a simple monument in the church dedicated in her honour to St. Mary. There are only two monastic establish- ments in St. Petersburgh : this of Smolnoi (one only in name, for the Empress's twenty nuns have long- since been dispossessed by the 800 young ladies), and that of St. Alex- ander Nevskoi, of which more here- after. The chaste and simple style of the Smolnoi Church is said to have been adopted by order of the pre- sent Emperor, in order to wean the people from their inordinate love of picture and shrine worship; the con- trast between it and our Lady of Ka- zan is something extraordinary, and one can scarcely believe the two churches are erected for worshippers of the same faith.
MONASTERY OP ST. ALEXANDER NEVSKOI.
This is one of the most celebrated monasteries in Russia — aLavra, that is, the seat of a Metropolitan, and inferior only to the Lavra of the Trinity in Moscow, and to the Lavra of the Cave in Kief; other monastic esta- blishments are only " monastirs." Its proper name is Alexander Nevskaya Svatotroitzkaya Lavra (the Alexander Nevsky's Sacred Trinity Lavra). It stands, as the traveller will have no- ticed in his drive, at the extreme end of the Nevskoi Prospekt, where it oc- cupies a large space, inclosing within its Avails churches, towers, gardens, and monks' cells. This church and convent were founded by Peter the Great, in honour of the canonized Grand Duke Alexander, who, in a great battle fought on this spot, defeated the Swedes and knights of the military orders; his re- mains were brought here by Peter, the
Tzar thinking he could by this means attach the Russians to his new capital. Alexander was their favourite saint, and his bones had previously reposed in the Convent of Gorodichetche, on the banks of the Volga. It is tra- ditional that the saint, indignant at being thus disturbed, or finding the air of Finland rather damp, was no sooner placed in his new abode than he got up and went home again by himself, a proceeding which was looked upon as a great miracle ; but Peter was not one to be trifled with, and gave the monks to understand that he would severely punish them if the saint in- dulged in any such peripatetics for the future. This admonition had the de- sired effect, and the Grand Duke sub- sequently remained where the Tzar thought fit to place him. " The chxirch and convent were originally built of wood, in 1712; but some years after stone was substituted. Peter's succes- sors increased the possessions and buildings of the cloister, and Catherine built the Cathedral, one of the largest churches in the capital; this is now both dirty and neglected, its domes have lost their gay colours, and the long red cloisters, which inclose the church, look dreary and deserted. For the decoration of the interior marble was brought from Italy, pre- cious stones from Siberia, and pearls from Persia. It is further adorned with some good copies after Guido, Reni, and Perugino ; the altar-piece, the Annunciation, is by Raphael Mengs, or, as the cicerone monk assures the visitors, by Arphaele (Rafaelle him- self). In one of the chapels are some unfinished pictures by " Robinsa," that is, not Robinson, but Rubens, " on Ita- liansky " (an Italian) is sometimes the remark of the monk. Pictures by foreign masters are very unusual in a Russian church. From Robinson to the Cannibals is no great transition, and therefore the stranger will be less astonished if the guide should chance to say " there lies a Cannibal" when
Russia. KOUTE 93. — monasteey of st. Alexander nevskoi. 477
pointing to one of the tombs in a corner. If the traveller can read the inscription on it, he will find it to be the monu- ment of Hannibal, the Russian gene- ral ; this is explained by the Russians having no H, and rendering that letter by a K. On two great pillars opposite the altar are portraits of Peter the Great and Catherine II., larger than life; these two, as founder and finisher, are very frequently united in St. Pe- tersburgh. The monument of Alex- ander Nevskoi stands in a side chapel ; it is of massive silver, and, with the ornaments around it, is said to weigh 5000 lbs, of pure metal; the design is pyramidal, 15 feet high, surmounted by a catafalque and angels, as large as a man, with trumpets and silver flowers; also a quantity of bassi rilievi, representing the battle of the Neva. The keys of Adrianople, not much larger than those of a midshipman's chest, are suspended on the tomb.
The Nevskoi cloister has profited yet more by the presents sent from Per- sia to the northern Petropolis when the Russian ambassador, GrriboyedofF, was murdered in Teheran, than by the Byzantine tribute. The Persian gifts consisted of a long train of rare animals, Persian webs, gold-stuffs and pearls. They reached St, Petersburgh in the winter. The pearls, and gold-stuffs, and rich shawls were carried in great silver and gold dishes by magnificently dressed Persians. The Persian prince, Khosreff Mirza, drove in an imperial state equipage with six horses; the elephants, bearing on their backs towers filled with Indian warriors, had lea- thern boots to protect them from the cold, and the cages of the tigers and lions were provided with double skins of the northern polar bears.
It was like a procession in the Ara- bian Nights, and the population of whole counties would, with us, have run together to behold it. '' It was a trifling affair," they said in St, Peters- burgh, " and some of the pearls false : " it excited but little attention. The ele-
phants soon died of the cold, and a part of the pearls were given to the Nevskoi cloister. We saw whole boxes full of them there, besides a rich col- lection of mitres set in jewels, pon- tifical robes of gold brocade, and souve- nirs of individual metropolitans and princes; among them an episcopal staff turned by Peter the Great, and pre- sented by him to the first St, Peters- burgh metropolitan ; another of amber, from Catherine II., and a number of other valuables which, found elsewhere, singly, would be admired and de- scribed, but here, in the mass of trea- sures, are unnoticed. The Library, of about 10,000 volumes, independently of a number of very valuable manu- scripts, concerning which many books quite unknown to us have been written, contains many rare specimens of the antiquities of Russia.
The small chapel attached to this convent contains the tombs of several illustrious Russian families ; that of the Naryshkins bears the following inscrip- tion : — " From their race came Peter the Great." Here are also the tombs of Suwaroff (a plain marble tablet) and Romanzoff, the chancellor Bez- borodko, Betskoi, the favourite minister of Catherine II., Panine, her minister for foreign affairs, &c., and numerous members of the imperial family. In the cemetery attached to the building many of the great Russian families bury their dead, and large sums are paid for permission to repose in this holy ground. The graves are conse- quently very close together, and the new ones generally covered with flowers, a pleasing trait of feeling frequently seen on the continent. The anchor at the foot of the cross, a favourite emblem, is placed above many of the monu- ments. There are between 50 and 60 monks here who superintend a classical school, which numbers about 1000 scholars. The service is well per- formed at this monastery, and, being a fashionable church, the singing is good. Mass commences at ten o'clock.
Y 3
478 EOUTE 93. — CHURCH OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL. Sect. Y.
PREOBRAJENSKY CHURCH.
This church, the Spass Preobra- jenskoi Sabor, belongs to one of the oldest regiments of guards founded by Peter the Great, the tenth legion of the Russian Caesars, and is one of the most considerable of the city, and more than any other adorned, both without and within, with trophies from con- quered nations. The railing that sur- rounds the churchyard is formed of Turkish and French cannon. Every three of those three hundred cannon, one large and two smaller, mounted on a granite pedestal, with their mouths pointed downwards, form a column. Around the cannon, chains of different thickness, gracefully twined, are hung like garlands between the columns ; on the summit of each is inthroned a Russian double eagle of iron, with ex- panded wings. Within, the church is adorned with flags and halberds ; the pillars look like palm trees, of which every leaf is a lance. Here also tra- vellers are shown a production of Rus- sian inventive talent, the work of a common peasant. It is a large splen- did piece of clockwork, made by him in his native village, bought for lOOOZ. by his lord, and presented to the church. The Avorks are said to be so good as to have stood in no need of repair during the six years the clock has been here. Some baldaquins — canopies used in the funerals of the deceased Tzars — are preserved in this church with that veneration with which Russians delight to hand down to posterity every relic of departed royalty. Every niche and recess of this building is crammed with captured colours and Pasha's horse-tails, while pillar and column are thickly studded with keys of fortresses and the spoils of captured officers.
THE CHURCH OP ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL.
This church, which is in the citadel, is conspicuous for its beautiful and
slender gilded spire, similar and hardly inferior in height to that of the Admi- ralty. It being found necessary to put a new vane up some years ago, estimates were taken which were very high, when a peasant, hearing of this, offered to re- place the old one by the new for 80 sil- ver rubles, and accomplished his object, merely by the assistance of a rope and a large nail. In the vaults of this church repose the remains of Peter the Grreat and all his imperial successors. The pre- ceding sovereigns of Russia were buried in the Arkhangelskoi Sabor in Moscow. Whoever has seen the monuments of the Polish kings at Cracow, or those of the French and English kings, and Italian princes, will wonder at the sim- plicity and absence of ornament in this last resting-place of the Russian Em- perors, particularly when he recollects the splendour of the Winter Palace. The simple coffins are placed in the vaults, and over them in the church is nathing further in the shape of a monu- ment than a stone coffin-shaped sarco- phagus covered with a red pall. On the pall the name of the deceased em- peror or emperor's son is embroidered in golden letters, as His Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Constan- tine ; His Imperial Majesty the Em- peror Peter the First, &c. On some there is nothing but the initial letters, and here and there some unimportant trophy. On the sarcophagus of the Grand Duke Constantine lie the keys of some Polish fortresses. Peter III., to whose remains Catherine refused in- terment in this place of sepulture, rests there now. Paul placed both Cathe- rine and his father there. A hundred cannon, impregnable bastions, and a garrison of 3000 men, defend the place, which can be desecrated by hostile hands only when all St. Petersburgh lies in ruins. The Russian princes are the only ones in Europe, as far as we know, who are buried within the walls of a fortress.
'The youthful daughter of the Em- peror, whose fatal illness shortened his
Russia. EOUTE 93. — cottage of petee the gkeat.
479
majesty's visit to England, is the last of the imperial family who sleep here. Her coffin, says a late traveller, " was covered with fresh and fragrant flowers, tokens of affection from many who knew and loved her, and numbers daily visit the last resting place of her whose early death was so severe a blow to her family. The sight of stately and high-born dames stooping and praying over her early grave, answered to my mind in a moment all the reports of the unpopularity of the reigning family among the upper classes in Russia ; and to that gloomy church, unseen and unknown, many a fair daughter of the Russian noble often comes to pour forth her supplications for the repose of the dead and the safety of the living, and to strew roses on the tomb of one who, young and gay as themselves, died when most happy and when most be- loved.
The whole aspect of this church is dingy and wretched ; and the vast quantity of torn and tattered banners and keys of fortresses hung up in every part of it, give one completely the idea of being in some old-fashioned gallery of an arsenal. Many of the flags can- not be looked upon without mterest. Here are the Swedish flags taken at Pultava — the selfsame Gothic banners which Charles fondly hoped to plant on the battlements of the Kremlin ; the Prussian eagles, too, wrested from the great Frederic ; the horse-tails of count- less Pashas, and their batons of office, curiously inlaid, and in shape very much resembling a small-headed ham- mer with a long and taper handle. Seven French eagles, and, above all, the keys of Paris and many other cities and fortresses of " la belle France." A Turkish flag was pointed out by our attendant, on the tarnished silk of which was the impress of a bloody hand distinctly stamped, telling more forcibly than words of the death strug- gle that accompanied the capture of this trophy, in defence of which life was thought well sacrificed. It is
now consigned to dust and neglect, save when the chance visit of some cu- rious stranger unfurls once again that wide-swelling fold, around which the storm of battle once raged fast and furious.
Several hundred Persian suns and Turkish crescents on these standards bend before the cross of the Christians. There are some very large jewels in the diadem of the Virgin in this church, but they are either of an inferior quality, or have been imperfectly polished, as they are dim and rayless. Among the sacred vessels are shown some turned in wood and ivory, the work of Peter the Great, and attention is generally drawn to oiie cross in particular, the centre of which is ornamented with a circular slide of ivory, on which the crucifixion with the mourning women below are carved in bas-relief. A multitude of rays issue from the slide as from a sun ; every ray is turned in ebony, in the ornamenting of which with all manner of carving an enormous degree of labour must have been expended.
The Imperial Mint is inclosed within the walls of the citadel : an order to view the various processes of assaying, coining, &c., can easily be procured by applying at the offices of the Etat Major.
THE COTTAaE OF PETER THE UREAT
is on the same island, but at some dis- tance from the citadel. It is divided into three small rooms : the inner apart- ment was his bedroom ; the adjoin- ing one his chapel, where the pictures that he worshipped are still preserved ; and that to the right his receiving-room. Here are preserved numerous relics of this extraordinary man. The boat which he is said to have constructed, and the sails he used, are also shown. The Emperor Alexander covered the whole cottage in with an outer casing. It was here that the city was first commenced ; and the wooden church, at the foot of the Troitska Bridge, is the oldest in St. Petersburgh.
480
ROUTE 93.— THE ENGLISH CHURCH.
Sect. y.
THE CHURCH OP THE HOLY TRINITY.
The Church of the Trinity is also a modern erection, like the Smolnoi, and somewhat resembles that edifice. The ex- terior, however, offers an example of the very fantastic manner in which the Rus- sians decorate their churches. Under the cornice of the dark blue star-bespangled cupola, an arabesque of vine-leaves and flowers runs all round. The garlands are held up by angels, and between every pair of them a crown of thorns is introduced as a centre. But for this martyr token of Christianity, we might fancy this church the gay temple of some Grecian god.
The half, and certainly the most im- portant half, of the churches of St, Petersburgh are the erections of the present century. The Nicolai Church, the Church of the Resurrection, and some others of the time of Catherine, are not worth mentioning in an archi- tectural point of view. In the Nicolai Church, which is built in two stories, one for the performance of divine ser- vice during the winter, and the other in the summer, the four small cupolas are tenanted by a number of pigeons who have made their nests there, and, singular to say, they are fed by their attendants with the rice Avhich the pious place there for the dead. Among the churches of other confessions, -that built by Paul, when he assumed the protectorship of the Maltese Order, is at least interesting. It is quite in the style of the old churches of the Knights of St. John, and still contains the chair on which the Emperor sat as Grand Master of the Order.
There are several Roman Catholic churches in St, Petersburgh, The priests are Germans, and the service, half German, half Latin, is attended by the Poles and Lithuanians, The Rus- sians rarely attend the Roman Ca- tholic service ; if they do go to any foreign church, it is generally the Protestant. The Roman Catholics, Greeks, and Armenians hold to the
doctrine of the Trinity, but the Dutch, as it appears, to a Duality ; for on their church stands the singular inscription, " Deo et salvatori sacrum." This church, with its very rich revenues, dates from the time of Peter the Great, when the Dutch were the most con- siderable merchants, and were endowed by the Tzar with so much land within the city that many a Dutch cathedral may envy the church of this little northern ecclesiastical colony.
In the New Lutheran Church the altar-piece, a Crucifixion, is by Brliloff. The body of the Saviour is splendidly drawn, but, otherwise, he has infused no freshness of idea into this oft repre- sented subject. The Administration of the Sacrament below this, and by the same master, is infinitely higher in in- terest.
Several of these churches are in the Nevskoi Prospekt, also the mosques of the Sunnite and the Schite communi- ties, in familiar neighbourhood one with another ; thus, this street has not in- aptly received the sobriquet of Tolera- tion Street.
THE ENGLISH CHURCH.
The chapel of the English Factory is on the English Quay ; the church itself is a splendid building, richly fitted up, and capable of containing a congrega- tion of twelve hundred persons. The living is of considerable value; the resi- dence of the incumbent is under the same roof with the church, as are also those of the clerk and sexton, and all are maintained on the same liberal footing. The general appearance of the edifice requires no date to remind one that it was founded in that period of our his- tory when attachment to the church was not questioned, and liberal endow- ments were thought the wisest economy, and it now, by mainly contributing to keep up the true national spirit, makes a worthy return to the descendants of those who established it. The altar- piece, a " Descent from the Cross," is well executed. In addition to the
Hussia.
EOUTE 93. ACADEMY OF SCIEKCES.
481
church establishment, the Factory has an excellent library, and the mer- chants, to whom it belongs, are most liberal towards any English visitor who may desire to consult any of their books. A stranger should, if possible, be furnished with a letter of introduc- tion to one of these gentlemen; we can say it from an experience to which we look back with real pleasure, that their courtesy and hospitality is unbounded. It may with truth be said of the British merchants, in St. Petersburgh, that they are of the first class in character, intel- ligence, and stability, and, though resi- dent there for generations past, are honourably and jealously national in their habits and feelings, and bring up their families in the same spirit. The Emperor has a very sincere respect for them.
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH.
The principal church, which is in the Nevskoi, is amost graceful building, with a finely proportioned dome and slender Corinthian columns. In the interior is a tablet of white marble edged with black, which bears the name of Moreau, and tells of the brilliant achievements and sad fate of the conqueror of Ho- henlinden.
ACADEMY OF SCIENCES.
Peter the Great, during his residence in France, resolved on forming in his capital an Academy of Sciences, on the plan of the establishment at Paris, and he applied to that body to furnish him with their laws and regulations. He was referred to Leibnitz, and the Tzar had several interviews with that celebrated philosopher, who devoted much time in forming a plan for the new Academy, which was finally esta- blished by Peter in the year 1725; but the building which is appropriated to its museum and the meetings of its members, was not completed until the year 1790. The Academy, since its foundation, has reckoned many eminent men amongst its members, including
Pallas, Gmelin, and Schubert. It is now divided into three departments ; the first is devoted to the mathematical sciences ; the second to natural history ; and the third to history and statistics. There are twenty-one professors, and to these may be added the ordinary and honorary members, and its foreign correspondents. The Emperor names the president and vice-president.
The following departments of the Academy should be visited : —
The Library, which contains above 100,000 volumes and an extensive collection of MSS. ; among the latter may be mentioned those of the cele- brated Kepler, in eighteen volumes, and a large collection of political docu- ments relating to the history of Russia.
In the Asiatic Museum is a rich collection of Chinese, Mongol, Mand- chou, and Thibetian MSS., written frequently in characters of gold or silver. These MSS. were mostly found in a temple in the Irtuish in Siberia ; there are also numerous Arabian, Per- sian, Turkish, and Japanese MSS. ; and various works relating to the history, religion, and literature of the people of the East. The M^tseum, perhaps unique, contains a large collection of idols, dresses, domestic utensils, and instruments of war of the nations of Asia. Among the idols is an interest- ing collection from Mongolia, cut in bronze and gilded, illustrating the reli- gion of Budha. There is likewise a cabinet of eastern coins and medals, containing above 15,000 specimens, amongst which a golden seldjouh, and a golden etabek of Mosul, are extremely valuable. The tribute money paid by the King of Persia, in 1828, to the Em- peror of Russia, is also preserved here.
The Egyptian Museum has a few fine specimens of papyrus, but is in other respects deficient in interest.
The Ethnograjjhic Museum consists of dresses and domestic implements of various nations which inhabit the northern parts of Russia ; also figures of many of the different people con-
482
EOUTE 93. ACADEMY OF SCIENCES.
Sect. V.
quered by the Russians, habited in their own peculiar costumes ; likewise some of Chinese, Persians, Aleutans, Carelians, and the inhabitants of many of the Eastern, Pacific, and Northern Islands, discovered or visited by Rus- sian travellers and navigators, as well as of the different nations inhabiting Siberia.
The Collection of Medals and Coins consists chiefly of specimens collected by the Count Suchtelen, and purchased by the Academy. The series of Rus- sian coins is complete and valuable.
The Mtiseitm of Natural History is not extensive, but the objects are well preserved.
The collection of stuffed birds and animals is beautiful of its kind, the specimens exquisitely perfect in form and plumage, and well arranged.
The first three or four rooms contain glass cases filled with these, some of which are most splendid, being princi- pally tropical birds of the brightest and most gaudy plumage. In other rooms is a goodly collection of stuffed animals, and, further on again, the skeletons of brutes of common dimensions, together with a large quantity of horns and tusks of enormous length, found in Siberia ; many of these do not measure less than 7 or 8 feet in length. Hav- ing passed these specimens, the visitor, turning sharply at the end of the long range of rooms, will stand at once be- fore the giant
Mammoth — admirably placed for displaying its huge dimensions and massive bones, which are supported by iron bars. It is, we believe, a perfect skeleton, with the exception that one of the hind feet seems to be a restora- tion in wood ; the right fore foot has the covering of skin still complete upon it, and a roll of the animal's hide lies before it — bullet proof, we should think, from its great thickness. The skeleton of a common elephant is placed by the side of that of the mam- moth, and shrinks into insignificance when compared with it ; the mammoth
being at least 2 feet higher, and longer in the same proportion. The head of this antediluvian monster still retains its integuments and many of its liga- ments entire ; the skin was covered with black bristles, thicker than horse- hair, 12 to 16 inches long, and with wool of a reddish brown colour. About 30 lbs', weight of this fur was gathered from the wet sand-bank on which it was found. The animal is 16 feet long, without reckoning the tusks. The difference between the two skeletons in the p'osition of the tusks immediately attracts notice. In the mammoth they approach closer together at the roots than in the elephant, and thence ex- tend laterally like two sythes in the same horizontal plane, and not in two parallel vertical planes, as in the ele- phant. It would thus appear that the mammoth in defending itself moved the head from side to side, whereas the elephant in striking tosses the head upwards. The mammoth is also dis- tinguished from the elephant by the greater length and compression of its skull, as well as by its superior height.
In the Hermitage is a bas-relief of a woman's head, as large as life, cut from a tusk which belonged to one of these monsters. An Irish traveller humor- ously calculates that the one in the museum would require an acre of grass and five or six birch trees for a break- fast.
This huge inhabitant of our " earth in its vigorous prime" was found in 1803, by Mr. Adams, on the banks of the Lena in Siberia, in lat. 70°. It fell from a mass of ice, in which it must have been incased for ages, and so fresh was the flesh of the animal, that the wolves and bears were actually found eating the carcase. How it was preserved during the years that have elapsed since such stupendous beings as the mammoth and mastodon walked the earth with their brethren, is a question which has given rise to much speculation. It is impossible to con- template the gigantic structure of the
Russia. EOUTE 93. — museum of peter the gee at.
483
skeleton without being struck with the wonderful power such a colossal brute miist have possessed. How the earth must have shaken beneath his pon- derous and unwieldly gambols, when " he moved his tail like a cedar, and drank up a river and hasted not." The sight of this primeval relic of an extinct race imparts a deep feeling of the boundless power of the Almighty Being who breathed the breath of life into the nostrils of this mighty work of his creation ; and again in the fulness of his appointed time bade them be- gone, and their race was no more known upon earth. Here are also large quantities of bones of several extinct species of elephant, one of which (named by Fischer Elephas Panicus) seems to have surpassed the mammoth in size, as much as the latter exceeded the Indian elephant : in addi- tion to these, there are a great many skulls of the larger kind of antediluvian rhinoceros [Rhin. Teichorhinus, Pal- las), which far exceed in size any of the living African species. The skull, owing to its great length and arching of the upper jaw, has some resemblance to that of a bird, and may, perhaps, have given rise to the fables which now circulate among the Yukagirs, on the shores of the Icy Sea, respecting a colossal bird of old times, the bones of which are said to be occasionally met with.
In another room is the largest artifi- cial globe we believe in Europe : it is made of oiled silk, inflated, on which are depicted the various countries and seas of the globe we inhabit. It was constructed under the superintendence of the great Euler during his residence here, and appears to be carefully and accurately executed. The south pole rests on the ground, and its height must be at least 10 feet, as, standing close to it, the equator is full on a level with the face.
The mineralogical collection is much less extensive than that of the Corps des Mines. The Academy is indebted
to the labours of the learned Pallas for the greater part of its riches. In the room devoted to anatomical subjects is an exhibition by no means agreeable, but, no doubt, useful to medical science. Amongst the specimens is a child with two heads, &c. More interesting to the visitor is a large collection of medals and different articles in gold found in the tumuli of Siberia, con- sisting of bracelets, vases, crowns, bucklers, rings, sabres with golden hilts, &c., &c., many of them of great value and very elegant workmanship, which have given rise to much interest- ing speculation in regard to the people who formerly inhabited that country.
The Botanical Collection is one of the finest in Europe, and is well worthy of inspection.
The collection of chemical and phy- sical apparatus is under the superin- tendence of Professor Lenz, whose labours in the cause of science have acquired him a just reputation. Many of the instruments are English. A large galvanic battery and the electric and magnetic apparatus were con- structed in Russia.
An interesting account of the pro- ceedings of the Academy for the last few years, with the particulars of the expeditions that have been sent [into various parts of Russia, may be found in the Precis du Systeme, &c., de rinstruction publique en Riissie, par Alexandre de Krusenstern.
An introduction to one of the pro- fessors will be useful in obtaining per- mission to see all the departments of the Academy which are not generally open to the public.
A ruble will satisfy the attendants.
MUSEUM OP PETER THE GREAT.
Scarcely a town in Russia is without some memorial of the handywork of Peter the Great, and the constant an- swer to the inquiry after the maker of any extraordinary looking article is " Peter Veliki." But whatever has been seen in other places dwindles into
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ROUTE 93. — ACADEMY OF ARTS.
Sect. V.
insignificance when compared with tlie contents of the suite of apartments in which that Tzar was in the habit of passing his leisure hours engaged in some mechanical employment. These rooms are under the same roof as the Academy of Sciences in the Vassili Island^ and their contents form a mu- seum more peculiarly known as that of Peter the Grreat. The first objects here seen are unpleasing enough ; con- sisting of a number of Tartar and Mongol figures, dressed in their ugly national costume : but, above all, a figure of a sorcerer in rags and tatters, hideously deformed, and squinting frightfully, with the very lineaments and expression of a fiend. In the next room is a very indifferent collection of stuffed birds and beasts. The Arabian horse, also stuffed, which Peter rode at the battle of Pultava, and the two dogs that always accompanied him, are in this part of the Museum. The crowning horror of the collection is the flayed skin of Peter's favourite attendant, a gigantic Holsteiner — a disgusting object in itself, and rendered tenfold more so by the arrangement of the figure. Grlad to escape from such repulsive objects, the stranger will do well to hurry his guide up stairs to " Peter's own room," as it is called. Here a wax figure of the monarch, as large as life, dressed in a suit of blue satin, the same which he wore when he placed the crown on the head of his beloved Catherine, is seated beneath a crimson velvet canopy. The features, bej'ond doubt, bear an exact resem- blance to the original, having been taken from a cast applied to his face when dead, and shaded in imitation of his real complexion. The eyebrows and hair are black, the eyes dark, the skin swarthy, and the aspect stern. This figure is surrounded by portraits of several of his predecessors, in the costumes of the day. Here, also, is Peter's uniform of the Preobrajenskj' Guards, gorget, scarf, and sword, and hat; shot through at the battle of Pultava.
A stick is shown measuring his exact height, 6 feet. A large press is filled with a plentiful display of the Tzar's wardrobe, the contents of which appear endless. The immense quantities of Peter's per- formances exhibited in these rooms are enough to have occupied the life of any ordinary man. A chandelier, with a whole cluster of branches ; plates with- out number, embossed with silver and gold ; reading-tables and escritoirs ; a curious musical instrument playing two tunes by clockwork, and not unlike a musical snuff-box in tone, allowing for the difference of size ; a group in ivory, representing Abraham offering up his son Isaac, the ram, and the angel Ga- briel cut out entire ; some bronze bas- reliefs, representing', Avith great perfec- tion of outline, different stages of the battle of Pultava ; and a heap of tools of all kinds, enough to stock a very respectable carpenter's shop, form but a portion of his labours. There are three or four lathes in one room, evi- dently much used, and on one of them a curious half-finished cylinder of brass inlaid with silver, which we may con- clude was the last piece of mechanical labour with which this indefatigable man was occupied. The Museum of Peter the Great is open to the public every Monday from 9 till 2 o'clock during the summer months : a ticket will admit five persons.
THE ACADEMT OF ARTS.
This building, also on the Vassili Island, is described by a late writer on Russia as one of "those outwardly splen- did piles, with ten times more space than in England would be allowed for the saiue object, ten times more out of re- pair, and ten thousand times dirtier. At the ceremony of Russian baptism the sign of the cross is made on the lips to say nothing bad, on the eyes to see nothing bad, on the ears to hear nothing bad, and, it must be supposed, on the nose also, to smell nothing bad ; for the Russians do not seem incon- venienced by the trials to which this
Bussia.
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485
organ is exposed on entering their dwellings. But to return to this odor- iferous academy — the hall and staircase are all on a grand scale, and appro- priately adorned with casts from the Laocoon, the Grladiator, and other cele- brated statues of antiquity. A stripling population, students in uniform, and ca- dets from the colleges, to whom it was a half-holiday, were swarming in the extensive rooms ; seemingly under no re- straint except that of a dancing-master, before whom about fifty of them were dancing quadrilles, with much grace and expression, in a cloud of dust. They seemed to consider this very great fun, and twisted their slim pale partners about most emphatically, while many a laughing eye turned upon the un- bidden spectators, who, to own the truth, loitered longer in this room than the occasion required. But in these times, when good dancing has proved a quick step to advancement in Russia, this accomplishment is not to be neg- lected. The walls are lined with eight cartoons of boar-hunts and sylvan sports by Rubens and Snyders — the latter quite undeniable — of great merit, though we could procure no information of their history. Also a fine marble bust of this magnificent Emperor, which, had it been dug up in classic ground, would have been declared a Grecian demigod — it was impossible to pass it without admiration.
" But the great attraction was Brii- loff's picture of the fall of Pompeii — an immense canvas— at least 20 feet wide by 15 high, which now ranks as one of the lions of the capital. This pic- ture is a gallery in itself, and one of absorbing interest. Above the scene hangs the dense black cloud as de- scribed by Pliny. To the right this is broken by a stream of forked lightning, whose vivid light blends horribly with the red-hot sulphureous glare of the volcano, the outline of which is dimly visible. In the centre of the picture, where the light falls strongest, lies the body of a female, her arms extended —
a crying infant lying upon her, with one little hand clinging to the drapery beneath her bosom ; she has evidently been killed by a fall from a chariot, one broken wheel of which is close to her, and which is seen borne along at full speed in the distance by two terri- fied horses, while the driver, the reins twisted round his wrist, is dragging be- hind them. Forwarder, on the right, is a group of father, mother, and three sons : the aged father, trying with one hand to ward off the shower of ashes, is carried in the arms of the eldest son, who, helmeted like a soldier, is care- fully picking his way among the falling stones. The younger, quite a lad, is supporting the old man's feet, and gazing with a countenance of agony at a tottering monument. The second son is supplicating his mother to trust her- self also in his arms ; but, half extended on the ground, she gently repulses him, and affectionately urges his own safety. The expression and lighting of this group is beyond all praise. In the right corner of the picture is a lover bearing the body of his fainting mistress ; from the chaplet on her head, and other bri- dal ornaments, they appear to have been just united. Behind is a grey horse in full light, furious with terror, his rider clinging with every muscle; while half hidden, appears a frantic figure, the nails fastened into the animal's back in the attempt to mount. On the left of the centre is a terror-stricken family — father, mother, and two children, cowering half-naked beneath the red- hot hail, and forming a dark mass in opposition to a confusion of figures in full light behind them — some escaping terrified from the tottering portal of a building, others bearing children or valuables in their arms ; a priest with the golden vessels of the temple ; and in the midst an artist, Brliloff himself, carrying his box of implements on his head. The picture terminates with a group of Christians, with an anachrontic chalice and censer, intended by their pious resignation and attitude of devo-
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EOUTE 93. — TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTION. Scct. V.
tion to contrast with the wild, hopeless terror around. But these are the least effective of the composition."
The remaining works worthy of any notice are the Cartoons of Raffaelle Mengs ; an Apollo and Muses, and a few of the Raffaelles and Peruginos. Some statues from Warsaw are not "v^ithout merit ; those brought from the islands of the Archipelago by Ad- miral Spiridion are mere fragments. There is also a well-executed statue, in marble, of Napoleon, brought from Hamburg by Benningsen and Witgen- stein.
If Briiloff should be in St. Peters- burgh, his studio in this academy will be worth a visit ; we remember when in Rome calling at his domicile, but the master-spirit of the place was absent in the frigid land of his birth ; we tried again to make his acquaintance in St. Petersburgh, but he was then suffer- ing from so severe an illness as to pre- clude the possibility of an interview with him, and in fact of his handling the. pencil for months perhaps years. Briiloff can paint, and with great free- dom, subjects of less importance than the fall of Pompeii ; Ave have seen groups of dancing girls with all the flow of Rubens; sultanas etched in every languid attitude ; and even ele- phants and dogs — all breathing that originality and fire, which forms the chief charm of his great pictures.
The academy has an elevation of 70 feet ; the whole length, 400 feet, along the facjade facing the Neva, is adorned with columns and pilasters ; on the centre cupola is seated a colossal Minerva, and the portal is supported by a Farnese Hercules and a Flora.
The parapet in front of the Academy of Arts is adorned with two superb granite sphinxes brought from Egypt. This institution is so extensive, that not only the 300 pupils who receive instruction live here, but also the pro- fessors and academicians, and many artists ; in all, it is said, not less than 1000 persons.
ROMANZOFF MUSEUM.
This Museum, bequeathed to the public by the chancellor. Count Ro- nianzoff, is open every day except Sundays. It contains a large collection of minerals, models, antiquities, &c., and a considerable library, rich in Sla- vonian MSS. We observed among the latter a volume entitled "Copies of Let- ters written and received by Sir Charles Cornwaleys, Knight, during his Em- bassie in Spain, with other his Observ- ations and Negociations, 1606." There are two statues by Canova ; one of Count Romanzoff, the grandfather of the chancellor, and an allegorical figure of Peace ; neither of which can be classed among his best works. The Museum is confided to the care of M. Onatcewitcz, a Polish gentleman, for- merly professor at the university of Wilna. M. Onatcewitcz, known as the author of several works on the history of Poland, is now employed by the government in collecting materials for a history of Russia. He is deeply versed in the history of Europe, and particu- larly in that of his own country. The Romanzoff Museum is open to the public daily from 10 till 3.
TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTION.
An institution which merits the at- tention of a traveller is the ' Institut Technologique,' founded by the Em- peror Nicholas, in 1829. This estab- lishment contains at present 215 pupils, sons of respectable tradesmen, who are instructed in the various branches of mechanics. Several small buildings are attached to a large edifice, and de- voted to various branches of mechani- cal labour; cotton spinning, manufac- tory of cloth, silk, lace, carpentry, carving in wood, engraving, &c., &c. Each department is superintended by an able workman, and the pupils are provided with tools and materials, ac- cording to the nature of their occupa- tion, and a steam engine is kept con- tinually at work on the premises for
Russia.
KOUTE 93. CORPS OF CADETS.
487
their use. They have a museum, with a collection of minerals, &c., and a room filled with casts and drawings for in- struction in the arts. The morning is devoted to study, and in the afternoon the pupils are distributed through the different workshops. Those who are able to contribute towards the support of the establishment pay 30/. the first year, and 251. the five succeeding; they must remain six years, but only a few can afibrd to pay even that sum ; the rest are entirely supported by Go- vernment.
The University of St. Petersburgh is on a large scale ; there are 58 Pro- fessors and upwards of 500 students.
CORPS OF CADETS AND OTHER MILI- TARY ACADEMIES.
The military institutions form the most conspicuous feature in the acade- mical system of Russia; they are un- rivalled in Europe, and the traveller should endeavour to visit one or other of them.
The following is a list of the military schools in St. Petersburgh ►
Regiment des Nobles.
First Corps of Cadets.
Second Corps of Cadets.
Corps of Cadets of Paulofsky.
Ecole des Porte-Enseignes de la Garde.
Corps des Pages.
Ilcole d'Artillerie.
Ecole du Genie.
Corps de Voies de Communicatio»s.
Corps de Marine.
Corps des Mines.
The three last, though not strictly military, have been added ; but this list does not include the several esta- blishments where the children of sol- diers are educated and maintained. The ground occupied by the Corps des Cadets in the Vassili Island forms a square, of which each side is about a quarter of an English mile in length — this will give some idea of its vast ex- tent. The orderand cleanliness of these establishments are well worthy of at- tention, in a country where neither of
these virtues is very generally practised, except under the influence of the mili- tary system. The long dormitories and refectories are admirable specimens of a well-ordered barrack-room, and the discipline of these youths, though not kept up by the birch, is such that they are able to share in all the fatigues of a review with the regular troops. The description of one of these esta- blishments will give an idea of the rest. The most ancient, as well as one of the most interesting, is the First Co7ys of Cadets. It was founded July, 1731, in the reign of the Empress Anne, and was destined to receive 200 cadets ; 150 of whom were to be chosen from the noble families of Russia, and 50 from the same rank in Livonia and Esthonia, The cadets are divided into four battalions, each of which has dis- tinct apartments and officers. They are instructed in all the necessary du- ties of a soldier, and the greater part of the day is taken up with military exer- cises. The culture of the mind is not neglected ; mathematics, in which are included the works of Newton, the French and German languages, and history, are among their studies.
The hall appropriated to recreation is decorated with instruments of war, and on the walls are inscribed the principal events in the history of Russia, the names of her generals, the battles gained by her armies, and the fortified towns which have yielded to her arms. Two hospitals, provided with every convenience, are attached ; one devoted to diseases of an infectious nature, the other to ordinary complaints. They are both under the superintendence of a physician and a military officer. There are three places of worship in the building ; Greek, Lutheran, and Roman Catholic. A priest of the Greek faith is exclusively attached to the establish- ment. The services of the Roman Ca- tholic and Lutheran chapels are per- formed by the ministers belonging to the churches of these creeds in St. Peters- burgh. The museum contains military
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Sect. V.
instruments of all descriptions, plans of fortified towns, models of fortifications, and various objects relating to the art of war. There are twenty-six of these academies in the empire, containing al- together between 9000 and 10,000 pupils, the annual expense of which to the state exceeds 3,000,000 rubles. The cadets usually enter the schools be- tween the ages of ten and fourteen ; and there is a preparatory one at Tzarsko Selo, where they are taken in at seven. Some special schools for the ensigns of the guard have also been instituted, where they are admitted at the age of seventeen, after they obtain their com- mission : the qualifications requisite for admission are noble extraction (though this is not necessary for the schools of artillery and engineers), a good consti- tution, and some previous knowledge of the elements of education. In the Corps des Pages, which ranks first among the academical institutions of the empire, are the chldren of gene- ral officers, or civil functionaries of that rank, who almost always become officers of the guards. Punishments are sparingly used, and rewards are distributed with a certain degree of solemnity when the cadet receives his commission ; but the most brilliant re- compense of his scholastic career is the inscription of his name in golden letters on a tablet in the refectory— this re- mains as a memento of his attainments, and aff"ords a great incentive to exertion for future pupils. A tablet of black marble, in the church of each aca- demy, perpetuates the names of those inmates of the institution who may have died a hero's death in the field of battle ; and if any action of peculiar gallantry has signalized his death an account of it is there recorded; thus the fame of many a youthful soldier, whose career was too short to attain a place in history, is preserved from ob- livion. The theory of the entire sys- tem has been almost completely de- veloped by the Grand Duke Michael, the greater part of whose time is given
up to this subject. As many as 3000 of these young soldiers are sometimes re- viewed by him ; some of them measure only three feet and a half. With rare exception they stand well to their arms; but it is recorded that on one occasion, when formed in square and charged by cavalry, their little hearts failed them as the dragoons got quite close, and they took to their heels in all directions. In the summer the various Corps of Cadets are united and encamped for some weeks in the neighbourhood of the palace at Peterhoif, in order that their manoeuvres may be conducted under the eye of the Emperor, who takes a great interest and pride in these lilliputian regiments ; they also bivouac occasionally, and conform to all the usages of an army which has taken the field.
The Corps de la Marine is well de- serving a visit.
For full and interesting details re- lating to the military establishments of St. Petersburgh, consult Precis du Systeme, &c., de I'lnstruction Publique en Russie, par A de Krusenstern.
CORPS DES MINES.
This institution, situated near the western point of the Vassili Island, is one of the most remarkable establish- ments in the capital. The building is grand and imposing, and a striking ob- ject as the traveller comes up the river from Cronstadt. Like many other of the institutions in St. Petersburgh, it was founded by Peter the Great for the purpose of training and forming a corps of mining engineers, who should be able to explore scientifically the vast mineral resources of the empire. The arrangement of the dift'erent rooms and collections is admirable, and the stranger will find no difficulty in obtaining ad- mission. This college is the chief of the various schools scattered through the mining provinces of Russia, and is composed of forty pupils who have at- tained the rank of officers, and 280 cadets, 100 of whom are maintained
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and educated at the expense of the government, and 180 either at the ex- pense of their friends or the directors of the provincial mining establishments. The cadets supported at the public ex- pense are sons of persons employed in the government mines, the other pupils, who pay 280 rubles, (about 4SL,) must be children of noblemen, clergymen, or merchants of the first guild. They are compelled to remain eight years in the corps. The education is extensive and liberal, and embraces the accom- plishments of a gentleman, dancing, fencing, music, &c. After they have finished the several branches of study required, the cadets are sent to super- intend the government mines, or placed in the mint. They hold a military rank and vv^ear an uniform.
The M^iseum attached to the " Corps des Mines " possesses the finest mine- ralogical collection in Europe. The most remarkable specimens are an ag- gregate of seventy-three crystals of eme- rald, each crystal measuring from an inch to an inch and a half in length ; splendid crystals of native sulphur ; a block of malachite, weighing 4000 lbs. and valued at 18,478^. This block was brought from Ecatherineburg, A piece of native platina, weighing 10 1 lbs., and valued at 4347^., from the mines of Nuovo-DemidofF; also 750 pieces of native gold, forming an extremely in- structive series of specimens of the alluvial gold found in the Uralian chain ; the metalliferous grains vary from the size of a pea to a mass of 80 pounds' weight, yet in all may be remarked a tendency to a spheri- cal kidney-shaped figure, and in this they agree with the platinum found in the same region. In other parts of the earth the same metals are generally found with a crystalline structure. The piece of gold weighing 80 lbs., came from Alexandrofsk, near Miask, in the Ural. There is also another piece which came from the same place, it is 8 inches in length and 5 broad, and has been valued at 26,236^,, it Avas found 3|
feet deep in the sand ; the silver ore is from Tobolsk ; a single crystal of beryl, weighing above 6 pounds, is con- sidered the finest known specimen, and valued at 6521/. There is also a mass of meteoric iron, which was .found in the government of Yenisei in Siberia, and which, after having furnished spe- cimens, under the name of Pallas's native iron, to most of the mineralogi- cal collections in Europe, still exceeds 3 cubic feet in bulk. The iron of this mass, like the gold, shows no tendency to crj^stalline structure ; this is curious, for in another collection are some re- markable specimens of meteoric iron grains, from 6 to 8 cubic lines in size, and of a regular octahedral figure, which fell in 1824, in the government of Oren- burgh, separately inclosed in hail-stones. Attached to the Corps des Mines is a large collection of fossil conchology, mining instruments, models of mines, chemical apparatus, and combinations used for mining purposes, coins, and medals. The riches contained in the mineralogical collection must be enor- mous : four of the specimens enume- rated, siipposing they are of the value stated, would alone be worth 112,632/., an extraordinary sum to be left within a museum. Among the models of lakes, mines, and mountains, is one of a large portion of the Ural chain, and the lake of Olonetz. The mines are filled with pigmy labourers, engaged in the various operations of excavating, smelting, &c., &c. ; in our idea the most interesting series we ever saw in any country.
But the most curious part of this valuable repository is underground, being a model of a mine in Siberia, ex- hibiting to "the life" the various prac- tical operations of mining in that coun- try. Furnished with lighted tapers, but no miner's dress, the visitor is led by the guides through winding passages cut into the bowels of the earth, the sides of which represent, by the ag- gregation of real specimens, the various stratifications, with all the different ores
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ROUTE 93.-^ECOLE DU GENIE.
Sect. V.
and minerals and different species of earth, as they are found in the natu- ral state ; the coal formation, veins of copper, and in one place of gold, being particularly well represented, forming an admirable practical school for the study of geology, though under a chilli- ness of atmosphere which would be likely very soon to put an end to stu- dies of all kinds ; there ought at least to be a brandy bin in one corner of it. The pupils of this institution are sent to manage the mines in the Ural Moun- tains— an important branch, particularly in late years, of the Russian revenue.
At the present time Russia produces more gold than probably any other country in the globe, not excepting Brazil. The source of this wealth is the sand and gravel lying on the sur- face, or immediately below the turf, at the base of the Ural Mountains, and of the chain of the Altai, in Siberia. Von Humboldt estimates the value of the gold there obtained in 1837, at 490 puds, more than one million pounds sterling. The director of this institu- tion is General Tschefkine. The Corps des Mines may be seen daily from 10 till 3 o'clock — a ticket of admission is to be had on the spot-
ECOLE DU GENIE.
This establishment for the education of military engineers is in the old Michiloff Palace, it was devoted to its present purpose after the death of the Emperor Paul ; its gilded spire rises beautifully above the trees of the grand duke's palace and those of the Summer Gardens.
" One hundred and fifty young per- sons here receive their mathematical and physical education. Its gardens are filled with blooming young cadets, who play and exercise there ; and the former audience and banqueting-rooms are partly used as school, examination, sleeping, and eating-rooms, and partly to hold collections of various objects of a very attractive kind, of the highest interest in engineering and fortifica-
tion. It is wonderful what progress the Russians have already made in this branch.
" Russia, with reference to its military fortifications, is divided into ten cir- cles. To the objects relating to the fortification of each circle, a separate hall is devoted. In large presses, in the halls, are kept all the plans, gene- ral and special, of already existing or projected fortresses. Each fortress has its own press for the materiel, in which are specimens of the bricks, kinds of earth, and the different rocks which lie in the neighbourhood, and of which the fortresses are, or are to be, con- structed. Lastly, on large stands in the middle of the halls, are to be seen all the fortified places in Russia, mo- delled in clay and wood, and with such exactness, that not the slightest eleva- tion or sinking of the ground — not a tree or a house is forgotten. In this manner are presented, among others, the most striking pictures of Kief, Reval, and Riga. It is worthy of re- mark, that among them is a complete representation of all the castles of the Dardanelles, with their bastions and towers, and the most minute details of all the little cre?ks of the Hellespont, and the neighbouring heights and rocks. By means of these models, the whole plan of attack on the Darda- nelles could be directed from St. Pe- tersburgh. The mingling of the castles of the Dardanelles with those already garrisoned by Russian troops, indicates that the Russians covet them, and keeps warm the memory of Alexander's saying, 'Ilfaut avoir les clefs de noire maison dans la poche.'
" In one of the rooms is an extraor- dinary quantity of ukases and military ordinances, having reference to the erection of defences. They are signed, and many of them corrected, by the different emperors and empresses with their own hands. Catherine, in par- ticular, has made many corrections with a red-lead pencil ; and the present Em- peror always makes with his own hand
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KOUTE 93. — OLD AND NEW ARSENALS.
491
his amendments, alterations, annota- tions, and additions to his laws, de- crees, and sentences. Here may be seen a hundred repetitions of those three important words, ' Buit po semu,' (Be it so,) which are annexed to every ukase. Catherine's handwriting is bad ; but the signature is never hur- ried ; on the contrary, she seems to have taken troiible in painting every one of the Russian letters. All the long letters have a little flourish under them, which are made with a trembling hand; some are quite awry, nor are all the letters in a line ; they are not joined, but nearly every one stands alone and tolerably perpendicular, without flow or rounding ; it is like the handwriting of an old man. Even the individual letter will sometimes be formed of unconnected strokes. The whole is plain, and without any orna- mental additions. After her name ' Ickathrina,' stands always a large dot, as if she would say, ' And therewith pimcU^n basta.' The Emperor Alex- ander wrote a fine hand ; his name be- gins with a large elegant A ; the other letters, though narrow, are not very plain till the conclusion, the r is very plainly written and well formed. Under the name is a very long complicated flourish, which looks confused at first, but the thread is easily found, as it is always very regularly formed, and in the same figure. Nicholas writes de- cidedly the best hand of all the Russian Emperors ; it is calligraphically irre- proachable, regular, intelligible, and flowing. The Emperor begins with an arching stroke of the pen, under which his name stands as under a roof. The last stroke of the i slopes under in a slender arch once or twice, is then car- ried upwards to join the first line, and ends over the name in a thick bold stroke made with a firm hand and the whole breadth of the pen. The name is thus prettily inclosed in a frame."
OLD AND NEW ARSENALS.
In the immediate vicinity of the
gardens of the Taurida Palace are the Old and New Arsenals, the latter built by the Emperor Alexander, in a very magnificent style ; the former erected by Count OrlofiF at his own cost, and presented by him to the Empress Catherine. The exterior of both is adorned with a profuse array of cap- tured cannon, chiefly Turkish and Per- sian, of all sizes; and heaps of shot and shell are piled up in front. On entering the New Arsenal the visitor will mount a winding staircase which leads into a long gallerj^, in which are ranged a profusion of French cannon and some eagles of that nation, together with a quantity of Russian arms of all kinds fit for immediate use. A cannon foundry is annexed to the arsenal, the boring being performed by a steam-engine of twenty-horse power; small arms are also made here, but the principal manufactory is at Tula, in the govern- ment of that name. From this foundry the marine as well as the land artillery is supplied, and some of the pieces cast are of very large calibre — we saw one bored for a ball of one hundred and twenty pounds. "When a gun is cast, bored, and finished amid the songs of the workmen — for a Russian workman is always singing, whether in the service of Ceres or of Mars — it is brought to the place of trial, and tho- roughly examined by the head en- gineer and master of the works, when the latter sets his stamp upon it, and baptizes it. The finished cannon are piled up in the spacious inner courts of the arsenal, and we counted eight hundred in one spot, with rammer, match, and sponge, ready for any work their owner might have for them. In this, as well as in the Old Arsenal, are numerous apartments filled with glittering weapons, new and old, mili- tary engines and trophies of various kinds, also relics that identify some interesting periods of Russian history. Amongst the former " there stands in one of the halls of this arsenal a large Russian eagle, whose neck, body.
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ROUTE 93. OLD AND NEW ARSENALS.
Sect. V.
and legs are composed of gun-flints; the pinions of swords, every feather on the breast and belly is a dagger, every tail feather a yatagan, the eyes the muzzles of two black pistols, the gullet the bore of a cannon, a terrible * noli me tangere.'' In another hall is a mar- ble statue of the Empress Catherine, throned in a royal chair, and surrounded by all the emblems of imperial power. Her horse, a white one stuffed, stands near her ; the saddle is not a lady's side saddle, but an ordinary one for the other .sex ; we presume therefore that the empress sat astride when on horse- back, like one of her OAvn generals."
The street must be crossed to enter the immense square whose four sides are occupied by the Old Arsenal. Here, in a gallery of almost intermin- able length, in which an antiquary might linger for days, are arranged the various arms used by the Russian army under successive monarchs, deposited as each new improvement superseded that previously in use. Cannon of wood and leather, of the most minute as well as of the most gigantic proportions, are also arranged side by side. Near these are some extraordinary implements of destruction, which might very well be called infernal machines, composed of sixty or seventy gun barrels arranged horizontally in a circle moving on wheels, men being placed in the centre ready to fire and reload them. A strange vehicle is also preserved here, called the chariot of war, and a most fearful-looking chariot it is, painted bright red, that darling colour of the Russians, (which in their language is synonymous with beautiful, hrasnoi,) and garnished with an array of dragons and serpents, opening wide their pon- derous and armed jaws on all sides. Mounted on high on this congenial en- gine, Suwaroff, it is said, was wont to harangue his legions. The quantity of ancient weapons of offence, partizans, halberts, maces, and battle-axes, ar- ranged along the walls in various de- signs, is surprising; but the greatest
curiosity is a bench set around with pistols which belonged to a great rob- ber chief of the Caspian, who killed the subjects of the great Peter for a length of time with impunity, and whose staff would have made a nice cane for Goliath of Gath. This pirate once burned a frigate and slaughtered the crew that the Tzar sent to take him ; but, bowled out at last, his stool and walking-stick accompanied his head to St. Petersburgh ; the stick is as thick as a man's wrist, and has brass studs at intervals of about an inch all over it. Some of the historical souve- nirs and . antiquities here are highly interesting : " for example, the stand- ards of the Strelitzes, huge things made of pieces of silk sewed together, and adorned with many highly original pic- tures characteristic of that fanatical Russian pretorian band, who may be justly called the Janizaries of Russia. In the middle of this flag sits a represent- ation of God the Father, holding the last judgment ; over his head is the azure sky of Paradise, beneath him blaze the flames of the infernal gulf; at his right hand stand the just, that is, a chorus of Russian priests, a division of Stre- litzes, and a number of bearded Rus- sians ; to his left the unbelievers and the wicked, that is, a tribe of Jews, Turks, and Tartars, negroes, and another crowd in the dresses of Ny- emtzi, or Germans. Under each group the national name is inscribed ; and so, also, by those tormented in the flames of hell. ' A Turk, a German, a Miser, a Murderer,' &c. Many angels, armed with iron rods, are busied in delivering the rest of the unbelievers, the shriek- ing Jews, Mahomedans, and other in- fidels, to the custody of the devils. Near the flags lie a number of the ac- coutrements of the Strelitzes, and the images of their patron saints ; each saint has its own little case, of which a whole row, fastened to straps, were worn on the breast, in a fashion simi- lar to the Circassian cartouches. Some Russian cannon of the period are also
Russia.
THE OLD AND NEW ARSENALS.
493
placed here ; they are very large, cast in iron, and ornamented with silver and gold.
To every emperor and empress since Peter the Great a separate apartment is devoted, containing the clothes, wea- pons, and utensils belonging to them, with the instruments of war in use at that time, uniforms, &c., &c. The uni- forms of distinguished generals, with all their orders, crosses, and ribbons, are here deposited in glass cases ; many thousand ells of historically interesting ribbons figure among them. With the help of this cabinet a very good history of the Riissian army might be com- posed. We may here learn that the SeminofF and Preobrajensky regiments of the guards, the most important and celebrated legions, the core of the Russian armies, during their cen- tury of existence have changed their uniform five and-twenty times ; and that it does not now in the least re- semble what it was a hundred years ago. The changes of the Russian sol- dier from white to black, from red to green, from long to short, and from wide to narrow, are more manifold than those from caterpillar to chrysalis — from chrysalis to butterfly. In the chamber of Alexander there are not less than sixty orders that he wore : the broad ribbon of the Russian order of St, George, however, is not among them ; the Emperor would not accept it, al- though it was decreed him several times by the Chapter of the Order and the Senate. This order is only given for a great battle won, for the preservation of the empire, or the restoration of peace by a series of military exploits ; and the Emperor, who could not ascribe one of these deeds to himself personally, refused the honour, in order to maintain the credit of the order and its laws — a noble trait !
Ever since Peter the Great, the Rus- sian Emperors have shown their re- spect and adherence to the military system, and thereby given their sub- jects a great example. The pike which
Peter carried as a volunteer in his own army, the unifonns he wore as sergeant, captain, and colonel, and the leathern shirt he wore as a carpenter, all of which are preserved in the ar- senal, constantly warn his successors to follow his example. In this Tzar's apartment there is still kept the cab- riolet he made use of to measure the roads, and the number of revolutions made by the wheels is shown by the machinery contained in the box behind. On the lid of this box is a curious old picture representing Peter's method of travelling. It is a portrait of the cab- riolet itself, drawn by one horse and driven by Peter. Eehind him are newly built houses, and gardens laid oiit ; before him a forest and a wilder- ness, to the annihilation of which he is boldly proceeding ; behind him the heavens are serene, before him the clouds are heaped up like rocks. As this picture was probably designed by the Tzar himself, it shows what he thought of himself.
In remarkable contrast with the little modest cabriolet of the road- making and measuring emperor is the great triumphant car, with its flags and kettle-drums, which Peter II. drove before the band of his guards, at the time when the ladies wore hoop-petti- coats and the gentlemen long perriwigs. Here, too, are Paul's rocking-horse ; Peter III.'s Holstein cuirassiers, who were so great a cause of vexation to the native Russians ; Senka Rasin's state chair of ebony, garnished with rude pis- tols ; and the uniform of General Milora- dovitch *, in which is seen the hole made by the bullet that pierced his heart in therevoltofthe 14th of December, 1826; his blood is still to be distinguished round the small but fatal aperture — the bullet is preserved here.
" In this collection, the accoutre-
* The command of the Emperor to de- posit the uniform of a general or com- mander in a public place, the arsenals of St. Petersburgh, or Moscow, or in any church, is a peculiar distinction which has only fallen to the lot of a few patriots. Z
494
THE OLD AND NEW AESENALS.
Sect. V.
ments of neighbouring states have not been neglected ; even the equipments of the Japanese and Chinese may be studied. The cuirasses and coats of mail of the Japanese guards are made of tortoise-shell, which cover the whole body, and are put together in small scales : the face is concealed in a black mask representing an open-mouthed dragon. The Chinese soldier is clothed from head to foot in thickly wadded cotton : if he cannot move about much in battle, he must be, at all events, in some measure protected against arrows and cudgels. Grimacing masks are also in use among them. The timid have everywhere a great wish to infuse into others, by means of disguises, that terror which they cannot inspire by their own courage. The Chinese wea- pons appear to have the same aim : among them is a halberd, of which the edge of the axe is nearly six feet long, an instrument of murder which would require a free space of ten feet diameter for every soldier to wield properly ; it seems destined for the destruction of giants. Countless as are the uni- forms, there is scarcely one to which the Russian has not once been opposed — the Japanese not excepted ; and scarcely one from which these northern warriors have not torn some trophy of victory.
" Those in the arsenals of St. Peters- burgh are splendid silver shields of Turkish leaders ; Polish, Prussian, French, and Persian flags ; and at least a thousand ells of silk in Turkish standards, besides a whole heap of crescents taken from the mosques. In one room we have an opportunity of admiring the singular forms of keys among various nations, belonging to Persian, Grusinian, and Turkish fort- resses stormed by the Russians ; and by every bunch of keys is a view of the city that surrendered them. '
Even a brief survey of all these cu- riosities will have wearied the visitor, and he will probably be meditating his escape at the end of the third gallery, when a new and equally interesting
display awaits him, consisting of models of captured fortresses, and some extraordinary piles of flags, banners, and arms of all nations, arranged as trophies of some signal victory. First and foremost of these is of course Pul- tava, exhibiting among other memo- rials of that fatal day, " when fortune left the royal Swede," the plumed helmet worn by the monarch himself, war-worn and soiled, while a bullet- hole on the crown bears witness that the wearer did not shun the perils of that disastrous fight. The wild horse- men of the Ukraine and the Caucasus are here mounted on their mail-covered steeds, and arrayed in their bright panoply ; the pacha's horse-tails wave idly from the walls, no more to be spread to the winds of heaven; and the black eagle tells of the day when even the stern discipline of the great Frederick yielded to the fortune of Russia. Poland, too, has contributed her share to this marshalling of na- tions overthrown, in silver eagles and torn and scathed banners. Some of the fortresses on the Caspian Sea appear, from the models, to have been of great strength ; bastion upon bastion brist- ling with cannon, and the wide sea flowing round their ramparts.
The last scene of all this long array is the room containing the funeral trap- pings used in conducting the remains of the Emperor Alexander to their last long resting-place : the walls are hung with flags and banners, bearing the arms of the various provinces of this vast empire emblazoned on them, and sable trappings for the twenty horses that dragged, in slow and solemn state, the ponderous platform whereon the royal coffin was laid. Ilia, Alexander's Russian coachman, who had served him faithfully for thirty years, and accom- panied him everywhere, slept during the whole journey, wrapt in his furs, under the hearse that brought his master's corpse from Taganrog to St. Petersburgh. This man, who was a very shrewd fellow, was greatly beloved by
Bussia.
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
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the Emperor, and now lives in the ca- pital, rewarded, singularly enough, with the rank of a councillor of state, where, remarks Kohl, he gives entertainment to his friends, and relates anecdotes of the deceased Emperor. Such a man would be worth seeing. Along one side of this room are arrayed coats, boots, &c., innumerable, of all the Tzars, from Peter the Great to Alexander ; and in a large glass case are preserved the various foreign orders and decora- tions conferred upon the last-men- tioned monarch.
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
From the moment the traveller's eye rests on the gigantic quays of St. Peters- burgh, to that on which he comes in sight of the above institution, the co- lossal character of every public esta- blishment which has come in his way will strike him as the prevailing fea- ture ; quay, church, monolith, academy, palace, and cadet corps are all on the same stupendous scale. But, however deeply he may have been impressed by this fact, he must expand his intellect for the comprehension of something still greater when he enters the walls of the Foundling hospital, which, like all the public institutions of this capital, has the air of a palace rather than a build- ing intended for charitable purposes. The Vospitatelnoi Dom of St. Peters- burgh, which occupies with its courts, gardens, and dependencies, a space of twenty-eight English acres, is close to the Fontanka Canal, and, therefore, in the best part of the town. The main building is composed of what were for- merly the palaces of Prince Bobrinski and Count RasumofFski, which were pur- chased for the institution ; but a number of additional buildings have since then been erected, and the whole may now be said to form a little district of its own. This hospital is of more recent origin than that of Moscow, of which it was only a dependent branch when instituted by Catherine II. in 1770,
but it now eclipses the parent insti- tution, and the children are better educated. The original endowment of Catherine was insignificant compared to the present wealth of the establish- ment, which has been enriched by pre- sents from private individuals, and by large gifts from Alexander, Paul, and Nicholas, till it has become one of the wealthiest landed proprietors in Russia, not to speak of some dozens of millions lent out on mortgage. Alexander, moreover, made a gift to the hospital of the monopoly of cards, and of the reve- nues of the Lombard bank ; and the con- stant ebbing and flowing that goes on in the St. Petersburgh purses makes the Lombard a place of very great im- portance. Thus it is that, in one way or another, the annual revenues of the Foundling Hospital do not fall short of from 600 to 700 millions of rubles, or about twice the amount of the national revenue of Prussia. The annual ex- penses of the institution are estimated at 5,200,000 rubles; and in 1837 the buildings then in progress for its ac- commodation were expected to cost 2,000,000. Among others, a neat church was in the course of erection, on which it was intended to expend 600,000 rubles.
The establishment was at first of very limited extent, containing, in 1790, not more than 300 children. Since the commencement of the present century, the number has increased with astonishing rapidity, and in 1837 no less than 25,600 of the rising genera- tion were under the direction of this colossal institution. The number of children annually brought in has been continually on the increase. In 1829, the number amounted to upwards of 3000; from 1830 to 1833, it was be- tween 4000 and 5000; and from 1834 to 1837, between 5000 and 7000. No condition is annexed to the reception of children ; all are received.
The first apartment into which the visitor is taken is the Lodge, where the
z 2
496
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
Sect. V.
children are brought on their arrival. It is a small warm room, and the en- trance leading to it stands open night and day, all the year round. An in- spectress and several servants are at all times in attendance, and a large book lies open in w^hich the young stranger is forthwith registered. From fifteen to twenty usually arrive in the course of the day, and the only question ever asked is, whether the child has been baptized and named. If the answer is in the affirmative, the name is entered in the book ; if not, the child is merely numbered and registered accordingly, like a bale of goods. In the dusk of evening it is that the greatest number are usually brought in. In fine wea- ther there are more arrivals than in bad, and in summer more than in winter. " When we entered the room," writes Kohl, " it was about one o'clock; and, down to that hour, the day had al- ready increased the great family by seven, whom we found entered in the book under the numbers of 2310-2317. Sometimes when the mother unwinds the cloth she will find her infant already dead, in Avhich case it is not received, but the fact is notified to the priest."
When the poor mother, oft amid sobs and tears, has imprinted her last kiss upon her infant, the latter is con- veyed to the chapel to be immediately received into the bosom of the orthodox Greek church, and hymns and pious ceremonies of interminable length salute the newly arrived. Many die in the hands of the priests, and some on their way from the receiving lodge to the chapel, in which case there remain but two documents to tell the melancholy tale. In one book will be perhaps the following entry: " No. 4512.— A child three weeks old. A girl. Re- ceived 6th April, 8 a.m." The cor- responding entry then in another book will be : " No. 4512.— Died 6th April, 9 A. M. Handed to the grave-digger to be buried." Those that come alive out of the chapel are examined by the
medical attendant, and, if found healthy, are delivered into the care of the in- spectress of wet-nurses, who delivers for each a certificate something like the following: "No. 4513.— Boy. Bap- tized Ivan Petrovitch. Received 10th May, 10 a.m. Healthy. Placed among the infants at the breast."
The wards for the sucklings are spacious, warm, well lighted, and hand- somely fitted up. In the ante-rooms are baths, constantly kept full of warm water, in which the children are fre- quently washed. The nurses are all neatly dressed in the Russian national costume. Sometimes the mothers will apply to be appointed nurses to their own children; a wish that is generally complied with, when no reason to the contrary presents itself. To prevent the nurses from changing the children confided to them, the cradles are placed alternately, first a boy and then a girl, and then the beds of the nurses, two and two, in such a manner that be- tween two infmts of the same sex there must always intervene two nurses and another infant. In each ward there are from 40 to 50 beds, and on the occasion of our visit there were 650 sucklings, and an equal number of wet-nurses in the house.
For the first six weeks the infants are usually kept in the hospital, after which they are sent out to nurse among the peasantry within a circuit of about 130 versts, and, when about six years old, they are taken from their foster parents (what a parting this must be to thousands every year!); the girls to St. Petersburgh, for their education, and the boys to a branch establishment at Gatshina. Four or five deaths occur daily in the hospital itself, or from 1500 to 1800 yearly; but, including those in the branch establishment and the children in the country, the annual deaths average from 2400 to 3000. A section of the cemetery of Okhta is set apart for the foundlings, and they are usually buried several at a time ; those
Russia,
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
497
who have died during two or three successive days being committed to the ground at one and the same time: it is calculated that as many as 46,000 foundlings have been already deposited in the above cemetery. The propor- tion of deaths is greater than at the hospital in Moscow; and this is ac- counted for by the circumstance that Moscow lies in the centre of the most vigorous portion of the Russian popu- lation, among whom it is easy to find good healthy nurses, and people dis- posed to treat the children well that are confided to them. Around the capital the bulk of the peasantry are of the Ingrian race, and they and their houses are wretched in the extreme. Of the children brought into the hos- pital, one-fourth die during the first six weeks, at the breast, and of those sent out amongst the peasants more than one-half die during the first six years, so that at the end of that time scarcely a third of the children brought into the institution remain alive. To the great distances which the children have to be carried this mortality must be attributed; indeed, many of them are all but dead when they arrive. Not merely St. Petersburgh and its immediate environs, but one-half of Russia sends its surplus infantine popu- lation to this institution, and the other half deals in the same way towards Moscow. In 1836 there arrived on the same day at the Vospitatelnoi Dom, a child from Kisheneff, in Bessarabia, near the Danube, and another from Tobolsk, in Siberia, towns considerably more than a thousand miles off — how many infants must therefore perish on the road !
A portion of this hospital, and sepa- rated from the rest, is allotted to the girls who have returned from the coun- try, and contains many hundreds of them, between six years old and eight- teen ; here the order, cleanliness, and excellent arrangement of the school rooms and dormitories, and the neat- ness of the pupils themselves, is ad-
mirable ; everything, indeed, about the place is truly imperial. There are always from 600 to 700 wet-nurses ready for as many babies, who are paid at the rate of about 11/. a year, and have their board, lodging, &c., free; and on such terms there is no doubt an abund- ant supply of competent individuals may always be had. Of teachers and inspectors, or class ladies as they are called in Russia, there are from 400 to 500 in the hospital — French, Grerman, and Russians; and their salaries often amount to several thousand rubles. The educational expenses of the insti- tution are alone estimated at more than half a million, that is, including the establishment for boys at Gatshina. Twelve medical men, mostly Grermans, are attached to the establishment, and are bound to pay frequent visits to the infants out at nurse in the country. Then thereare cooks, hoiisekeepers, and other servants, some of them members of the institution though, for many reasons, strangers are always preferred. In the building at St. Petersburgh, the number of inmates rarely falls short of 6000.
The last, and perhaps the most strik- ing scene, is the dining hall. Long tables in three rows are neatly laid out, and long lines of the elder girls march in from different sides, in double files, led by their governesses and in- spectresses. Hundreds, however, may be seen running in from the garden, or skipping down the stairs; they are differently clad, according to their several classes. Some in red, others in blue, yellow, brown, &c., but all clean, and their hair either laid smoothly over the forehead, or prettily braided. An air of health and cheerfulness per- vades them all, and the sight of so many pretty girls is quite bewitching. The director stands by their side, and each of the children in passing salutes him in the most unconstrained manner, with a " Good day, papa," in Russian, French, or German. Gradu- ally all arrange themselves at their re- spective tables, and a moment of com-
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THE OBOUKOFF HOSPITAL.
Sect. V.
plete silence follows, after which a hymn is sung. The singing in the Russian churches is at all times im- posing ; but to hear a hymn sung to a Russian sacred melody by at the least a thousand voices has in it something so irresistibly touching, that nothing remains for the stranger but to yield to the impulse of feeling and join in this act of pratse. This pious formality over, a lively buzz of conversation, and a brisk clattering of spoons, ensues. The dining room is a relief after the spectacle of the ward for sucklings; for it is melancholy to think, that for each little head in the room three cherubs rest in the cold church- yard.
In immediate connection with this establishment is a lying-in hospital, conducted with the same degree of liberality, all that apply being received gratuitously; while the arrangements are so excellent that persons far above the lowest classes frequently avail themselves of it. Women may enter the hospital, if they wish it, a full month before the period at which they expect their confinement, and the ut- most secrecy is observed, none but those connected with the house being permitted to enter these rooms. Every other part of the establishment, how- ever, isfreely shown, except on Sundays, on which day no strangers are admitted, but the friends and relatives of the foundlings, for many parents continue to watch the progress of their infants even after having committed them to the care of the great house. Not only poor pedestrians and private soldiers may be seen wending their way to the Vospitatelnoi Dom, on a Sunday, but ladies richly clad, and gentlemen be- dizened with orders, stepping from their coaches-and-four.
We cannot help thinking that a visit to this remarkable establishment can- not fail to excite very serious reflections in the mind of the English traveller. If the institution is to be viewed in the light of a charity, it is charity upon a
very questionable principle; but, be this as it may, this vast breeding cage will give the visitors a very clear idea of the power and immense resources of the state.
OBOUKOFF HOSPITAL.
The largest civil hospital in St. Petersburgh is that of Oboukoff^, situ- ated on the Fontanka Canal, and near the SemenofFskoi parade ground. All persons are received here. Those who are able contribute a small monthly sum towards its support. Twelve me- dical men are attached to this hospital. An iron plate, with the name of the patient, the nature of the disease, the time of entering, and the course of treatment, is affixed above each bed. The bedsteads are of iron, and the linen remarkably clean. There is a school, belonging to this hospital, where youths are educated for hospital attendants. They are taught to read and write, instructed in Latin and in a smatter- ing of medicine and anatomy, and at a certain age distributed among the va- rious hospitals of the city as subor- dinate ofiicers. The military hospital contains 2000 patients.
GOSTINNOI DVOR.
The Russians have a very convenient custom for persons who are desirous of making purchases, that of offering for sale within the same building almost everything that is likely to be bought. This plan is, on the other hand, very disagreeable to those who have nothing to buy, for the bearded worthy who stands at every door of the Gostinnoi JDvor is by no means content with ver- bally inviting the stranger to walk in, but seizes him by the arm, or coat-tails, without ceremony, and, unless he makes some show of resistance, the chances are that he will be transferred, nolens- volens, to the darkness visible of the merchant's dirty storehouse. But, pur- chaser or not, to the great market the foreign visitor must go, if his object is
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THE GOSTINNOI DVOR.
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to make himself acquainted with Rus- sian life amongst the middling and lower classes — the most national in every European country. Moreover, he will find goods here of every kind and description, and from almost all parts of the civilized and uncivilized quarters of the globe.
There is in most Russian cities of importance, and generally in a central position, a Gostinnoi Dvor, where all the more important articles of com- merce are collected for sale. It is gene- rally a large building, consisting of a ground floor and an upper floor. The upper floor is generally reserved for wholesale dealings; the ground floor consists of a multitude of booths or shops in which the various descriptions of merchandise are sold by retail. The dwellings of the merchants are away from these markets; and, when the business hours are at an end, each tradesman locks up his own stall, and commits the whole building for the night to the guardianship of the watch- men and their dogs.
The Gostinnoi Dvor of St. Peters- burgh is a colossal building, one side being in the Nevskoi Prospekt, and an- other in the Bolshaia Ssattovaia, or Great Garden Street, through which, and some of the adjoining streets, ex- tend from it a number of shops and booths, giving to that part of the town, throughout the year, the appearance of a perpetual fair. The better de- scription of Russian goods will all be found in the Gostinnoi Dvor, those of an inferior kind in the adjoining ' markets, the Apraxin Rinok and the Tshukin Dvor which lie a little farther on in the Bolshaia Ssattovaia. Following the last-named street, which is bordered throughout its whole length by shops and booths, the stranger will arrive at an open place, the Sennai'a Ploschad or hay-market, which may be considered the principal provision market of St. Petersburgh.
All the lanes and alleys that inter- sect the Gostinnoi Dvor are deluged
throughout the day by a stream of sledges and droshkies, in which the cooks, the stewards, and other ser- vants of the great houses come to make their daily purchases. In a city containing half a million of inhabitants, there must at all times be a great and urgent demand for a vast variety of articles ; but there are many reasons why this should be more the case in St. Petersburgh than in any other capital. In the first place, there is no other European capital where the in- habitants are content to make use of goods of such inferior quality, or where, consequently, they have such frequent occasion to buy new articles, or to have the old ones repaired. Then there is no other capital where the people are so capricious and so fond of change. The wealthy Russians are here one day, and gone the next; now travel- ling for the benefit of their health, now repairing to the country, to re-establish their finances by a temporary retire- ment, and then reappearing on the banks of the Neva, to put their hun- dreds of thousands into circulation. This constant fluctuation leads daily to the dissolution and to the formation of a number of establishments, and makes it necessary that there should be at all times a greater stock of all things ne- cessary to the outfit of a family, than would be requisite in a town of equal extent, but whose population is more settled.
A Russian seldom buys anything till just when he wants to use it, and, as he cannot then wait, he must have it ready to his hand. Boots, saddlery, wearing apparel, confectionary, and other articles, which in other countries are generally ordered beforehand from a tradesman, are here bought ready for immediate use. Each article has its separate row of shops, and the multi- tude of these rows is so great, that a stranger may often be heard to inquire, " My little father, where is the row of fur booths]" " My little mother, where is the cap row?" " Pray show
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THE GOSTINNQI DVOK.
Sect. V.
me the stocking row." " My little father, tell me the way to the petticoat row."
If the throng of buyers is calculated to amuse a stranger, he will be likely to find still more diversion, as he lounges along the corridors, in observ- ing the characteristic manners of the dealers. These Gostinnoi Dvor mer- chants are almost invariably flaxen- haired, brown-bearded, shrewd fellows, in blue caftans, and blue cloth caps, the costume uniformly worn by merchants throughout Russia. They are con- stantly extolling their wares in the most exaggerated terms to those who are passing by. " What is your plea- sure, sir] Clothes] I have them here ; the very best, and all of the newest fashion." — " Here are hats of the first quality, and by the best makers." " Kasan boots of the choicest description; isvoltye, isvoltye!" — " Shto vam ugodno 'ss? (What would suit you ■?) a bear-skin, a fox-skin, or a cloak of wolf-skin? You will find everything here ; pray, walk in." Cap in hand, the}' are always ready to open their doors to every passer by, and are incessant in the exercise of their elo- quence, whatever may be the rank, station, or age of those they address. They will not hesitate to ofi'er a bear- skin mantle to a little fellow scarcely strong enough to carry it, recommend their coarsely fashioned boots to a passing dandy, invite an old man to purchase a child's toy, or solicit a young girl to carry away a sword or a fowling-piece. Where the merchant does not act as his own crier, he usually has somebody to officiate in his place, and it may easily be imagined what life and animation these constant cries and solicitations give to the whole market. Preachers and actors have generally a tone peculiar to their several classes, and even so has the Gostinnoi Door merchant, whose voice may be known afar oif, but who immediately alters that tone when a fish shows a disposition to fasten on the bait, for
then commences a more serious discus- sion of the merits and quality of his merchandise.
No light or fire is allowed in the building, \mless it be the sacred lamps that are kept burning before the pic- tures of the saints, and which are sup- posed to be too holy to occasion any danger. The merchants are, in conse- quence, often exposed to intense cold, but this they endure with admirable fortitude and cheerfulness. Over their caftans, it is true, they put on a close fur coat of white wolf-skin, a piece of apparel worn by every Gostinnoi Dvor merchant, of the same cut and material.
Even without including the peasants who ofi'er provisions for sale, there are probably not much less than 10,000 merchants and dealers of different degrees assembled in the Gostiniioi Dvor of St. Petersburgh, and its de- pendent buildings. Of these people, few have their household establish- ments in the vicinity of the market, yet all have the wants of hunger to satisfy in the course of the day, and it may therefore readily be conceived that a host of small traders have attached themselves to the establish- ment for the mere convenience of the merchants. Among the streets and lanes of the bazaar there are constantly circulating, retailers of tea with their large steaming copper urns ; quass sellers, together with dealers in bread, sausages, cheese, &c.; and all these people receive constant encouragement from the hungry merchants. Careworn looks are as little seen in this market as grumbling tones are heard ; for a Russian seldom gives house room to care or melancholy, and yet more rarely gives utterance to a complaint. Nor indeed has he occasion ; for in this rising country, Slava Bogu ! (God be thanked !) be the merchandise ever so bad, trade goes on nevertheless. In other countries, a merchant relies upon the goodness of his merchandise for custom ; the Russian speculator believes
Hussia.
THE APRAXIN RINOK.
;oi
that, the worse his wares, the sooner will his customers want to renew their stock.
THE APRAXIN RINOK AND TSHUKIN DVOR.
These two markets occupy a piece of ground about 1500 feet square, con- taining, therefore, a surface of rather more than 2,000,000 square feet. The whole is so closely covered with stalls and booths, that nothing but narrow lanes are left between ; and supposing each booth, including the portion of lane in front of it, to occupy 500 square feet, which, is certainly making a very liberal allowance, it would follow that there must be within the two bazaars nearly 5000 booths, tents, and stalls. These form a city of themselves. The tops of the booths frequently project and meet those that are opposite to them, making the little lanes between as dark as the alleys of the Jews' quarters in some of the old German towns, or like the streets of many an oriental city at the present day. Through narrow gates the tra- veller will pass from the busy Garden Street into this market-place, where a well-dressed human being will be look- ed for in vain ; where all are " black people," bearded, and furred, and tho- roughly un-European.
With the exception of furs, many of which are of excellent quality, there are in the Gostinnoi Dvor, properly so called, but the iron and wax shops where the articles are thoroughly Rus- sian. Most of the merchandise con- sists of bad imitations of foreign fabrics. As the goods, so the customers. Both are Europeanised, for there is little in the Frenchified soubrettes, the lackies in livery, the employes in uniform, and the foreign teachers, to remind one of Russian nationality : but a little far- ther on, when you enter the gates of the Apraxin Rinok and the Tshukin Dvor, you come to a market where sellers, buyers, and wares are all equally and entirely Russian ; and iere, in the very centre of the palaces
and plate glass of St. Petersburgh, in this capital of princes and magnates, there is to be seen a motley dirty po- pulace, precisely similar to what may be supposed to have thronged the fairs of Novgorod in the middle ages, or may still be seen in the bazaars of any of the provincial cities of Russia.
Here also, in the true Russian spirit, like has paired with like. In one corner, for instance, all the dealers in sacred images have congregated. The Russians, who believe themselves abandoned by God and all good angels, as soon as they are without His visible and tangible presence, or, rather, who think every place the Devil's own ground, until the priest has driven him out of it, and who, therefore, de- corate their bodies, their rooms, their doors, and their gates, as well as their churches, with sacred images, require, of course, a very large and constant supply of those articles, of which, in face, the consumption is enormous. The little brass crosses, and the Virgins, the St. Johns, the St. Georges, and other amulets, may be seen piled up in boxes like gingerbread nuts at a fair. On the walls of the booths are hung up pictures of all sorts and sizes, radiant with mock gold and silver. Some are only a few inches in length and breadth. Of these a nobleman's footman will buy a few score at a time, as necessary to the fitting up of a new house ; for in every room a few of these holy little articles must be nailed up against the wall. For village churches, for private chapels, and for devout merchants of the old faith, there are pictures of several ells square, before which a whole household may prostrate them- selves at their ease. Some are neatly set in mahogany frames of modern fashion, others are still adorned in the good old style with pillars, doors, and temples of silver wire ; some are new, and from the pencils of the students of the newly established St. Petersburgh Academy of Arts, but the greater part are old, and present figures often nearly
z 3
503
THE APEAXIN ETNOK.
Sect. V.
obliterated by tbe dust and smoke of centuries. . To these it is (particularly when they can be warranted to have once adorned the wall of a church) that the lower orders in Russia attach the greatest value, just as the Grerman peasant prefers an old, dirty, well- thumbed hymn-book, to one just fresh from the binder's.
In another part of the market will be found a whole quarter of fruit-shops, in which an incredible quantity of dried fruit is offered for sale. Each of these shops is as oddly decorated as its fellows. In the centre, on an elevated pedestal, there stands generally a rich battery of bottles and boxes of con- serves, mostly manufactured at Kieif. Round the walls, in small boxes, the currants, raisins, almonds, figs, and oranges are arranged, while huge sacks and chests of prunes, nuts, and juniper- berries, retire more modestly into cor- ners ; and large tuns full of gluJcvi, a small red berry of which the Russians are passionately fond, stand sentinels at the door. These are mostly sold in winter, when they are generally frozen to the consistency of flint stones, and are measured out with wooden shovels to amateurs. Inside and outside, these shops are decorated with large festoons of mushrooms, at all times a favourite dish with the common people in Russia. It is surprising that no good artist should ever have chosen one of these picturesque Russian fruit-shops for the subject of his pencil. Such a booth, with its bearded dealers and its no less bearded customers, would make an admirable tableau de genre.
A little farther, and the stranger will come to whole rows of shops full of pretty bridal ornaments ; gay metal wedding-crowns, such as it is customary during the ceremony to place upon the heads of bride and bridegroom, and artificial wreaths and flowers, of a very neat fabric, and all at very reasonable prices. A whole garland of roses, for instance, tastefully interwoven with silver wire, may be
had for little more than sixpence; a bride can here be handsomely decorated from head to foot for a few shillings ; and, as among the humbler classes of St. Petersburgh some thirty weddings are daily solemnized, without speaking of other festive celebrations, it may be imagined what piles of orna- ments of various kinds are constantly kept on hand to supply the wants of brides and bridemaids, birthday guests, and the like.
Whole groups of shops are filled with perfumes, incense, and various articles for fumigation. Others with honey from Kazan and Tula, neatly laid out in wooden vessels, some as clean as the milk pans in the caves of Homer's Cyclops, while others, of a less attractive look, remind one rather of Limburg cheese in an advanced state of decay.
The pastrycooks have also their qiiarter in this market, where they vend the oily fish pirogas, of which the bearded Russians are so passionately fond. Here little benches are ranged around the table on which are placed the dainty delicacies, covered with oily pieces of canvas, for the jiiroga to be properly enjoyed must be eaten warm. A large pot of green oil on a salt-stand of no ordinary size are the indispen- sable accompaniments to the feast. Pass one of these shops, and throw an accidental glance at his wares, and the merchant will be sure to anticipate your desires ; quickly he will plunge his tempting cake into the oil pot, scatter a p!hch of salt upon the drip- ping mass, and present it to you with the air of a prince. The sheepskinned bearded Moscovite will rarely be able to resist the temptation ; he will seat himself on one of the benches, and one rich savoury ^^iVo^a after the other will wend its way down his throat, till his long and well-anointed beard becomes as bright and glossy as a piece of highly polished horse-hair. Some travellers may turn with disgust from the picture here presented to them; but others
Russia.
THE TSHUKIN DVOK.
503
will be too much amused by the wit and politesse of the oil-lickers to expend much indignation on the ven- dors of these pirogds. Even the coarsest and dirtiest article of mer- chandise will be presented with a courtly and insinuating demeanour by these rough-looking bearded fellows ; even a greasy piroga, dripping with green oil, will be accompanied by a neatly turned compliment or a lively jest, and the few kopeks paid for it are sure to be received with expres- sions of the warmest thankfulness.
Almost every article may, however, be described as cheap and nasty, and yet what vistas of yet worse and worse wares unfold themselves as the traveller wanders on to the outskirts of the market, where disbanded apparel and invalided furniture are exposed for sale. Things may be seen there of which it is difficult to imagine that they can still retain a money value. Kags, bits of ribbon, fragments of paper, and broken glass ; clothes that the poorest isvostchik has dismissed from his service, and petticoats that the humblest housemaid has thought herself bound to lay aside. Yet all these things, and others, which a Gos- tinnoi Dvor merchant would scarcely use except to warm his stove, are not arranged without some show of taste and elegance, nor are they offered without a multitude of civil speeches and lofty panegyrics to the barefooted beggar, to the gipsy and Jewess, who timidly hover around the poverty-struck repositories, and cast many a longing glance at the many things with which they might cover their nakedness or decorate their huts, but the possession of which they are unable to purchase with the copper coin within their grasp. The crumbs swept from the tables of the rich are here gathered together ; and though the joint stock of many of these shops be not worth the silver ruble, staked at a card-table in the saloon of a noble, yet each article has its estimated value, below which it will
not be parted with — no, not for one quarter of a kopek.
THE TSHUKIN DVOR.
But for a stranger, perhaps, the most interesting of this world of markets is that of the Tshukin Dvor, where the various species of the feathered tribe are sold. "Here he will see two rows of booths full of pigeons, fowls, geese, ducks, swans, larks, bulfinches, siskins, and hundreds of other singing birds, forming the most picturesque and varie- gated menagerie that can be imagined. Each booth is of wood, and open in the front, so that the whole of its con- tents may be seen at once by the pass- ing stranger, who is saluted with such a concert of cackling, crowing, chatter- ing, cooing, piping, and warbling, as would suffice to furnish the requisite supply of idyllic melodies for a hun- dred villages. Between the opposite booths are usually bridges from which the pictures of saints are suspended, for the edification of the devout. On these bridges, and on the roofs of the booths, whole swarms of pigeons are constantly fluttering about, the peaceful Russian being a great lover of this gentle bird. Each swarm knows its ' own roof, and the birds allow them* selves to be caught without much diffi- culty, when a bargain is about to be concluded. The pigeon is never eaten by a Russian, who would hold it a sin to harm an animal in whose form the Holy Grhost is said to have manifested itself. Pigeons are bought, therefore, only as pets, to be fed and schooled by their masters. It is curious to see a Russian merchant directing the flight of his docile scholars. "With a little flag fastened to a long staff he conveys his signals to them, makes them at his will rise higher in the air, fly to the right or left, or drop to the ground as if struck by a bullet from a rifle.
The poor little singing birds — the larks, nightingales, linnets, bulfinches, &c. — must be of a hardier race than in more southern lands ; for, in spite of the bitter frost, they chirrup away
504
THE TSHUKIN DVOE.
Sect. V.
merrily, and salute with their songs every straggling ray of sunshine that finds its way into their gloomy abodes. The little creatures receive during the whole long winter not one drop of water, for it would be useless to offer them what a moment afterwards would be converted into a petrified mass. Their little troughs are accordingly filled only with snow, which they must liquefy in their own beaks when they wish to assuage their thirst.
Moscow is famed for its cocks, and here the Moscow cock may be seen proudly stalking about, in cages and out of them. The best pigeons are said to come from Novgorod, and Fin- land furnishes the chief supply of sing- ing birds. Greese are brought even from the confines of China, to be sold as rarities in the Tshukhi Dvor, after a journey of more than 4000 miles, Q-ray squirrels may be seen rolling about in their cages like incarnate quicksilver ; while rabbits and guinea- pigs without number gambol their time away in their little wooden hutches. Within the booth, a living centre of all this living merchandise, behold the merchant, closely ensconced in his wolf-skin, and ready to dispose of his little feathered serfs at any acceptable price. At the back of the booth, be sure there hangs a saintly picture of gome sort, its little lamp shedding a cheerful light, to guard the feathered crowd against the evil influence of in- truding demons; but there are evil spirits that the good saint cannot ban- ish. Man is there, to hold in chains or to sentence to death, according as it may suit his calculations of profit, or the caprices of his palate. On shelves around are ranged the trophies of his murderous tribe, and the northern swans, the heathcocks {reptshiki), and the snow-white partridges {kurapathi), are piled up under the very cages from which the captive larks warble their liquid notes.
It is astonishing what a qixantity of these birds are yearly consumed at the
luxurious tables of St. Petersburgh. In winter the cold keeps the meat fresh, and at the same time facilitates its con- veyance to market. The partridges come mostly from SaratofF, the swans from Finland ; Livonia and Esthonia supply heath-cocks and grouse, and the wide steppes must furnish the trapp geese which flutter over their endless plains, where the Cossack hunts them on horseback, and kills them with his formidable whip. All these birds, as soon as the life-blood has flown, are converted into stone by the frost, and, packed up in huge chests, are sent for sale to the capital. Whole sledge-loads of snow-white hares find their way to the market. The little animals are usually frozen in a running position, with their ears pointed, and their legs stretched out before and behind, and, when placed on the ground, look, at the first glance, as if they were in the act of escaping from the hunter. Bear's flesh also is sometimes offered for sale in this market, and here and there may be seen a frozen reindeer lying in the snow by the side of a booth, its hairy snout stretched forth upon the ground, its knees doubled up under its body, and its antlers rising majestically into the air. It looks as if, on our approaching it, it would spring up, and dash away once more in search of its native forests. The mighty elk, like- wise, is no rare guest in this market, where it patiently presents its antlers as a perch for the pigeons that are flut- tering about, till, little by little, the axe and the saw have left no fragment of the stately animal, but every part of it has gone its way into the kitchens of the wealthy.
Similar markets for birds and game will be found in almost every large Rus- sian city. Indeed, the habits and fashions of the Russian markets are completely national. Those of Moscow vary but little from those of Tobolsk ; and Irk- hutsk, Odessa, and Archangel have shown themselves equally servilein their imitation of the metropolitan bazaars.
Russia.
THE SENNAIA PLOSCHAD.
505
SENNAIA PLOSCHAD (oR HAY MARKET).
. Beyond the Apraxin Rinok is the Sennaia Ploschad ; and here, again, the manners of the lower orders may- be conveniently studied. The open space is frequently so crowded with them that the police have some trouble to keep a passage clear in the centre for the equipages, which are constantly coming and going. On one side of this passage stand the sellers of hay, wood, and, in spring, of plants and shrubs. On the other side are the peasants with their stores of meat, fish, butter, and vegetables. Between these two rows are the sledges and equipages whose owners come to make the daily pur- chases, and depart laden with herbs and vegetables, the bleeding necks of the poultry often presenting a singular contrast to the brilliant carriages from whose windows they are listlessly dangling. Along the fronts of the houses, meanwhile, are arrayed the dealers in quass and pastry, together with the beer and tea stalls, at which the peasants never fail to expend a portion of their gains.
The sledges, after bringing the va- rious commodities to market, serve their owners as stalls and counters. The matting thrown aside allows the poultry and meat to be arranged in a picturesque manner to catch the eye of the passing stranger. The geese are cut up, and the heads, necks, legs, and carcases sold separately, by the dozen or the half-dozen, strung ready for sale upon little cords. He whose finances will not allow him to think of luxu- riating on the breast of a goose may buy himself a little rosary of frozen heads, while one still poorer must con- tent himself with a neck-lace, or a few dozen of webbed feet, to boil down into a Sunday soup for his little ones. The most singular spectacle is furnished by the frozen oxen, calves, and goats, which stand about in ghastly rows, and look like bleeding spectres come to
haunt the carnivorous tyrants whose appetites have condemned the poor victims to a premature death. The petrified masses can be cut up only with hatchets and saws. Sucking pigs are a favourite delicacy with the Rus- sians. Hundreds of the little crea- tures, in their frozen condition, may be seen ranged about the sledges, with their tall motionless mothers by the side of them.
The anatomical dissections of a Rus- sian butcher are extremely simple. Bones and meat having been all ren- dered equally hard by the frost, it would be difficult to attempt to sepa- rate the several joints. The animals are, accordingly, sawn up into a num- ber of slices of an inch or two in thick- ness, and in the course of this operation a quantity of animal sawdust is scat- tered on the snow, whence it is eagerly gathered up by poor children, of whom great numbers haunt the market. Fish, which is offered for sale in the same hard condition, is cut up in a similar way. The little diminutive snitki are brought to market in sacks, and rattle like so many hazel nuts when thrown into the scale. The pike, the salmon, and the sturgeon, so pliant and supple when alive, are now as hard as though they had been cut out of marble, and so they must be kept, for a sudden thaw would spoil them, and, to guard against this, they are constantly incased in ice or snow. Sometimes the whole mass freezes together, and the hatchet must then be liberally applied before the piscatory petrifactions can be libe- rated from their icy incrustations.
So long as the frost keeps all liquid matter in captivity, and so long as the snow, constantly renewed, throws a charitable covering over all the hidden sins of the place, so long the ploschad looks clean enough ; but this very snow and frost prepare for the coming spring a spectacle which I would counsel no one to look upon, who wishes to keep his appetite iu due order for the sump- tuous banquets of St. Petersburgh.
606
FACTORIES,
Sect. V.
Every kind of filth and garbage accu- mulates during the winter ; and when at last the melting influence of spring dissolves the charm, the quantities of sheep's eyes, fish tails, crab shells, goat's hairs, fragments of meat, pools of blood, not to speak of hay, dung, and other matters, are positively frightful." The Sennaia Ploschad is remarkable as the spot on which the mob barricaded themselves with hay-carts after storm- ing the cholera hospital and destroying divers Grerman doctors, whom, in their ignorance, they fancied were the ori- ginators of that calamity (possibly luckless professors of homoeopathy). But the square is far more remarkable for what followed that popular tumult. The present Emperor, having heard of it, repaired to the market in an open carriage, unattended by any military escort, and, the barricades disappearing at his approach, his carriage drew up at the entrance of the church. Here he prayed and crossed himself, and then addressed a few words to the multitude, bidding them kneel down and pray to God to forgive them their sins. The influence which a Tzar so wonderfully exercises over the Russian people was instantly displayed, and all that tumultuous assembly at once knelt down, and unresistingly allowed the police to come among them and quietly convey the ringleaders of the riot to prison. The Zinnaia Ploschad, near the winter provision market, about a quarter of a mile from the Nevskoi Prospekt, is worthy of inspection. Here the living cattle are disposed of; also sledges and country waggons. Thousands of spe- cimens of the Russian telega may here be examined at leisure.
FACTORIES.
St. Petersburgh and its neighbour- hood contain some splendid industrial establishments, particularly of the de- scription which produces the more rare and costly articles required by that class to whom luxuries are indispensable. Among these may be enumerated that of
the Grobelin tapestry, the porcelain glass, the playing-card, and one for cutting and polishing precious stones ; also the cotton factory at Alexandrosky, the pa- per manufactory, and the cannon found- ries. All these are either the property of foreigners or of the crown, or are under the management of foreigners, and serve as models to the whole em- pire; they are readily shown to strangers. It is characteristic of Rus- sia, that it had universities before schools, and tapestry manufactories be- fore it had learned to spin cotton. The Spalernoi manufactory is the oldest in Petersburgh ; as the Acade- my built by Peter the Great is the oldest school ; in that Tzar's reign the workmen in the tapestry manufactory were, one and all, French and Italians ; now they are, with the exception of the director, a designer, all Russians ; the establishment is recruited from the Great Foundling Hospital. Ordinary carpets are made here for sale, but the real Gobelin tapestry is destined for the Court alone. The numerous palaces, and the expensive way in which they are furnished, create a constant demand for these productions, which are also frequently required as presents to Asiatic and European potentates. The little boys, w^ho come here as appren- tices, first work at leaves and flowers in one colour ; then they advance to the shaded and varied leaves with several colours ; then to stars, arabesques, &c. The drawings are placed directly be- hind perpendicular threads, and, while the outline of the picture is traced with a black coal, it is transferred to the threads, and the limits to the difi'erent tints are marked out. Every three or four weeks papers are fastened over the web, and, as it is finished, this is rolled up so that it may not be injured during the tedious process of manufacture. Not only silk, but flax and wool are employed in this work ; the brightness of the silk, the neutral effects of the flax, and the force of the wool, each render their several services. This
Russia.
FACTOEIES.
507
woven painting, if not so enduring, is much richer than mosaic, which it more nearly resembles than it does any- thing else. The Gobelin tapestry manufactory of St. Petersburgh is, perhaps, one of the largest existing establishments of this branch of indus- try in Europe.
The porcelain manufactorj'-, at which the fine vases presented by the Em- peror to foreign princes are made, is on the road to Alexandrosky. An an- nual exhibition takes place here in the autumn, when many objects of great value and beauty are exposed for sale. The plate-glass manufactory is situated in the neighbourhood of the Alexander Nevskoi convent. The wealthy Peters- burghians carry the use of plate and looking-glass to a high pitch of luxury — their windows are colossal — in gar- den pavilions a whole wall is sometimes covered with looking-glass, and this is the case in private houses, where it is used to supply the place of pictures, and present at every turn the picture most admired of all — that of self. Some of these mirrors are 8 feet wide, 15 feet long, and an inch and a half thick. Articles of less value are also made at this manufactory; amongst them are curiously cut glass eggs, which are purchased as Easter presents, and " nargiles " for Persia ; as much as 50,000 rubles' worth is exported of these annually, and, though so fragile, they are transported by land to that country. The glass-cutting depart- ment is perhaps the largest in Europe, but we do not recommend the traveller to bring his ears within reach of the crushing, scratching, and screeching produced by the united industry of the three hundred workmen employed here. A characteristic anecdote of national intelligence is told in connec- tion with this establishment. The Emperor wished to illuminate the Alex- ander column in grand style ; the size of the round lamps was indicated, and they were ordered at this manu- factory, where the workmen exerted
themselves in vain, and almost blew the breath out of their bodies in the endeavour to obtain the desired mag- nitude. But the commission must be executed, that was self-evident ; but how 1 A great premium was offered to whoever should solve the problem. Again the human bellows toiled and puffed, but the object seemed unattain- able ; at last a long-bearded Russian stepped forward, and declared he could do it ; he had strong and sound lungs, and would only rinse his mouth first with a little cold water, to refresh them. Accordingly he applied his mouth to the pipe, and puffed to such purpose that the vitreous ball swelled and swelled nearly to the required dimen- sions, up to it, beyond it. " Hold, hold," cried the lookers on, " you are doing too much, and how did you do it at all]" "The matter is simple enough," answered the long-beard; "but, first, where is my premium]" And, when he had clutched the pro- mised bounty, he explained. He had retained some of the water in his mouth, which had passed thence into the glow- ing ball, and there becoming steam had rendered him this good service.
A glass bed of great value, presented by the Emperor to the King of Persia, an enormous mirror sent to the Sultan, and the glass railings of the Smolnoi church were made here.
A day may be agreeably passed in visiting the imperial cotton manufac- tory, and that for playing cards, at Alexandrosky. The latter is under the direction of a Mr. Delarue, a rela- tive, we believe, of the partners of the London firm of that name ; the cotton manufactory and the iron foundry at Copenha are under the superin- tendence of another Englishman, a General Wilson. The articles ma- mifactured here are of various kinds; in one department cotton is spun, in another sheets and table linen are wove, and in a third are made all the playing cards used in Russia, for the manufac- ture of these is monopolized by the
608
THE THEATRES.
Sect. V.
crown. About 3000 operatives are employed here ; of these nearly 1000 are foundling boys and girls, from twelve years of age and upwards : at twenty-one the men are allowed to marry and quit the establishment, or remain as paid workmen ; the girls may do the same at eighteen. The children on their arrival receive, in ad- dition to their food, clothing, and lodg- ing, small monthly wages, half of which is given to them byway of pocket money, and the other half is placed at interest in a savings-bank, so that when they come of age or marry they have a little fund of three or four hundred rubles with which to begin the world.
'' Immediately after our arrival at Alexandrosky," writes Mr. Venables, " we were taken to see the foundlings at dinner, which, as it was Lent (the only fast in the year which they are required to keep), consisted of soup- maigre, fish, rye-bread, and quass — all served in pewter. The day was an ordinary'' working-day, and our arrival was perfectly unexpected, yet nothing could exceed the neatness and perfect cleanliness of these young manufac- turers, more especially the girls, whose hair in particular excited our admira- tion, every head being arranged alike, and with a degree of taste and neat- ness which many a lady might copy. Caps are never worn by the lower classes in "this country, and certainly the well-brushed hair, drawn smoothly over the forehead and fastened at the back by a high comb, rendered the line of heads infinitely more agreeable to the eye, and at least as cleanly in appearance, as the row of mob caps which would have been ranged down the table had these been English cha- rity girls. A wooden screen about six feet high ran down the middle of the hall to separate the two sexes," Din- ner over, a bell is rung, when the whole body, young men, boys, and girls, stand up and sing a hymn ; the efiect produced by so many voices we have already alluded to, when speaking
of a similar custom at the Foundling Hospital ; at the conclusion of this hymn the bell gives the signal of de- parture, and the two sexes move out of the hall at difi^erent ends in the most orderly manner. This, like other pub- lic establishments in Russia, is a per- fect model of cleanliness; a fact the more striking, as the virtue is not gene- rally practised in private life, even amongst the upper classes. The ma- chinery is for the most part under the direction of English workmen, about seventy are employed, and divine ser- vice is performed here every Sunday evening by the British chaplain.
On the road to Peterhoff is the im- perial paper manufactory, and imder the same roof is an establishment for cutting and polishing stones. In no court in the world are such quantities of jewels employed as in the Russian. The Emperor and Empress never travel without taking with them a large jewel casket, in order that they may leave behind them some mark of their favour. The most peculiar and beautiful objects to be seen here are the large malachite vases, the material of which is brought from Siberia ; some of these are valued at 100,000 rubles.
Some of the private manufactories of St. Petersburgh are likewise on an imperial scale ; amongst them are the founderies and refinery of Mr. Baird, and the cotton- spinning establishment of Baron Stiglitz.
THE THEATKES.
From the enjoyment which the Rus- sians of all classes take in every spe- cies of scenic diversion, the theatre is particularly a popular amusement. There are, independent of the one near the Hermitage, three large theatres in St, Petersburgh : the Bolshoi, or Great Theatre, on the square of that name between the Moika and Catherina canals; the Alexander Theatre, in the Nevskoi Prospekt ; and the French in the square near the palace of the Grand Duke Michael. The performances at the
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THE THEATKES.
509
two former are devoted to Russian and Grerman plays and operas, the latter to French and German dramas. All thea- trical establishments in Russia are under the immediate management of Government, by whom every expense is paid ; and, as none is spared, the scenery and dresses are of the very best kind : the sums disbursed must be very considerable — in fact, the ex- penses are so much above the receipts, that it is said to be but an indifferent speculation. The imperial purse, how- ever, is pretty capacious and well lined, and stinginess is certainly not one of the Emperor's infirmities. The houses are spacious, very nearly semicir- cular in shape, and handsomely deco- rated ; and a magnificent box for the Imperial family occupies the centre of the two first tiers. The arrange- ments for the accommodation of the public is exceedingly good, every seat being numbered in such a manner as entirely to prevent confusion. The state box, however, is seldom used, the Imperial family generally occu- pying one next to the stage conti- guous to that of the Grand Duke Michael ; opposite is one similarly decorated for the Ministre de la Cour. The entire pit is fitted with arm-chairs ihraslya), numbered on the back, the numbers commencing from the or- chestra; and on obtaining a ticket at the JCassa, on which the number of the seat is likewise specified, a servant in the imperial livery at once conducts the visitor to his appointed place, and, in case it is already occupied, ejects the in- truder in the most summary manner. The ordinary price for these seats is 1 silver ruble, but in the two rows near- est to the stage they are 2 silver rubles. On extraordinary occasions, however, the public are put under extra contribution ; and when, for instance, Taglioni performs, or rather dances, the prices are sometimes raised _/ive/bM, an arm-chair in the pit being 6 silver rubles, or somewhat more than a guinea ; the other prices are raised in proportion, and
even at these exorbitant rates, every seat is engaged for five o^ six evenings in advance.
There are no stalls in any of these theatres, but the back part of the pit is fenced off as a parquet, and contains seats at a lower price ; about two- thirds of the pit seats are generally oc- cupied by officers wearing uniforms of all fashions and colours, and almost universally muffled up in long gray cloaks, without which no Russian officer seems to consider himself fully accou- tred. No sooner has an act concluded, and the curtain fallen, than an universal rush to the door takes place, as if the house were on fire. Six or seven times in the course of each evening's perform- ance, one is obliged to make way for whole troops of these gray cloaks, trail- ing swords, and cocked hats.
We have remarked that the prices are quintupled when Taglioni appears, and this is so ; but, as Taglioni or any other European of celebrity can be seen any season at the Italian Opera-house in the Hajonarket, we recommend the traveller to be a spectator of a national drama or opera when a national au- dience is present — he will thus have an opportunity of observing the real senti- ments and emotions of the Russian. The witty mermaid of the Baltic thus describes a Russian opera, the first ever written, entitled " Jishn za Zara," or, " Your Life for your Tzar;" the music by Glinki, the libretto by Count Rosen. " This opera, equally from the popularity of the subject and the beauty and nationality of the music, has met with the utmost success ; the plot of the piece, as far as we could fathom it, was the concealment and subsequent dis- covery of the true Zar, and his final coronation at Moscow, with a splendid representation of the Kremlin. This is woven up with a love-tale, and rendered interesting by the fidelity of a fine old Russian with a long beard and a bass voice, who eventually pays for his ad- herence with his life.
" The music was strikingly national.
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STATUE OF PETER THE GEE AT.
Sect. V.
and one trio in particular appeared to combine every peculiar beauty of Rus- sian melody and pathos, and will doubt- less acquire a European celebrity. It was very strange to see true Russians personating true Russians — gallery, pit, and stage being equally filled with the same bearded and caftaned figures. The national feeling seemed in every heart and on every lip ; any allusion to the Tzar — and the subject was thickly strewn with them — was pronounced by the actors with the utmost anima- tion, and responded to by electric shouts from the audience. Nor was there any casual inducement for this display of loyalty, for neither his Ma- jesty nor any of the Imperial family were present.
" These are the scenes, more than any luxurious entertainment or military parade, which reveal the strength of the Crown." The Alexander, unlike almost every other' continental theatre, has chandeliers round the boxes, a great improvement upon the palpable obscure of many theatres, where the entire blaze of light is concentrated on the stage — here not only Russian dramas on na- tional subjects are performed, but, as appears by the account of another tra- veller, the actors attempt to delineate the proceedings of those who figure in our ecclesiastical courts. At one time the great attraction at this theatre was a Russian version of a life of Edmund Kean. The opening scene was laid in a public-house at Wapping, and in the centre of the stage stood a Rus- sian stove with a pipe, to carry oif the smoke ; the English sailors, who formed part of the dramatis personae, were ar- rayed in tight knee-breeches, long leather gaiters, and red waistcoats, and the principals, including " Milor Cox," were habited much in the same way.
The troop of actors at the French Theatre, in the Michaelosky Square, are by no means mediocre ; those we saw perform both at Moscow and St. Petersburgh had considerable merit, much more so than their compeers who
star it at the St. James's Theatre. There is also a large wooden theatre in the Kammenoi Island, where an ex- cellent French company perform three times in the week during the summer; it is not much attended, for every one is out of town at that season. In the winter the theatres are all heated, and sometimes to an excessive degree, the thermometer standing as high as 82*^ of Fahrenheit. The censorship of the theatre is in the hands of Count Benken- dorf, who approves, or otherwise, of every play previously to its being brought forward for performance.
STATUE OP PETER THE GREAT.
In the western corner of the Admi- ralty Square, and near the Isaac Bridge, itself a fine structure, 1050 feet long, and 60 feet wide, with two draw- bridges, stands the well-known eques- trian statue of Peter the Great. The subject is admirably treated, and the idea of representing the Emperor riding up a rock, on both sides of which, and in front, steep precipices threaten de- struction, is as poetical a thought as ever sculptor entertained, and it were dif- ficult not to find the parade-stepping horses in the generality of equestrian statues spiritless after seeing this. It is said that Falconet, who executed this great work, was aided in his inspira- tions by a Russian officer, the boldest rider of his time, who daily rode up to the edge of a high artificial mound, the wildest Arabian of Count Orloff's stud, where he suddenly halted him with his fore legs pawing the air over the abyss below. The head was modelled by Marie Callot. The Emperor's face is turned towards the Neva, his hand outstretched as if he would grasp land and water : this attitude was bold and to the purpose ; it is therefore inconceiv- able why the artist did not rest con- tented with it, instead of adding to the idea of power and possession which his attitude gave, the subduing a ser- pent which the Tzar finds on the rock, and which is trodden under his horse's
Russia.
THE ALEXANDEK COLUMN.
611
feet ; the cliarm of a great work of art is sinned against by this destruction of unity of action and idea. The spring of the horse^ the carriage of the rider and his well-chosen Rus- sian costume are, however, admirable. The air-born position of the whole statue rendered it necessary that un- usual precautions should be taken to pre- serve the centre of gravity ; the thick- ness of the bronze in front is therefore very trifling, but behind it increases to several inches, and 10,000 lbs.' weight of iron were cast in the hind quarters and tail of the horse — a tolerable ajolomb.
The huge block of granite which forms the pedestal, and weighs 1500 tons, was brought from Lacta, a Finnish village four miles from St. Petersburgh, and may have been torn by the Deluge from the Swedish mountains ; it was originally 45 feet long, 30 feet high, and 25 feet in width ; but the chisel was set to work, and, in cutting it, the mass broke in two pieces ; these were subsequently patched together, and it now looks as unnatural as the imitative rocks we see on the stage. Some work may have been necfessary to obtain a footing for the horse and give an incli- nation to the stone. This, however, must have been done without due pre- caution, for one-third was taken away. It is now only 14 feet high, 20 feet broad, and 35 feet long; the statue 11 feet in height, and the horse 17; on the two long sides are chiselled the follow- ing inscriptions in Russian and Latin : ** Petramu Pervomu, Catherina Vto- vaya." "Petro Primo Catherina Se- cunda," mdcclxxxii.
A laughable anecdote connected with this statue recently occurred at St. Petersburgh. " Some American sailors, who had been making rather too free with the jolly god, sallied forth on a frolicksome cruise, and one of them, not having the fear of the police before his eyes, climbed over the wire palisade sur- rounding the statue, and, clambering up the rock, seated himself, en crou;pe, be-
hind the Tzar. He was speedily dis- mounted, and after a night's confine- ment was brought before the divisional officer of police, when the case was sum- marily disposed of, and so heavy a fine inflicted that the offender naturally re- monstrated. " No, no," said the officer, " we can make no abatement ; if you will ride with great people, you must pay great people's prices."
THE ALEXANDEK COLUMN.
In the open space between the Etat Major and the Winter Palace stands the greatest monolith of modern times, the column erected to the memory of the late Emperor Alexander; a single shaft of red granite which, exclusive of pedestal and capital, is upwards of 80 feet in height. This beautiful monument is the work of Monsieur Montferrand, the architect of the Izak Church, and was erected under his superintendence; the shaft originally measured 102 feet, but it was subsequently shortened to its present dimensions from a fear that its diameter was insufficient for so great a length. The base and pedestal is also composed of one enormous block of the same red granite, of the height of about 25 feet, and nearly the same length and breadth; the capital measures 16 feet, the statue of the angel on the summit 14 feet, and the cross (7 feet), in all about 150 feet. As the whole of St. Peters- burgh is built on a morass, it was thought necessary to drive no less than six successive rows of piles, in order to sustain so immense a weight as this standing upon so confined a base ; the shaft of the column alone is computed as weighing nearly 400 tons, and the massive pedestal must materially in- crease the tremendous pressure. The statue was raised in its rough state, and polished after it was firmly fixed on its present elevation. On the pedestal is the following short and well-chosen inscription : — "To Alexander the First. " Grrateful Russia." The eye rests with pleasure on this polished monu- ment ; and in any other city its enor-
512
ROMANZOFF MONUMENT.
Sect. V.
mous size would make a greater im- pression. " Here, in St, Petersburg^, where the eye expands with the vast surrounding spaces, it is seen under a smaller angle of vision. The place on which it stands is so vast in its dimen- sions, the houses around are so high and massive, that even this giant requires its whole hundred and fifty feet not to disappear. But when the stranger is close to it and becomes aware of its circumference, while its head seems to reach the heavens, the impression is strong and overpowering. The best points of view are the gateways of the Etat Major and the Winter Palace ; from them it is contemplated as in a frame, and a point of measurement gained for the eye by which the height may be estimated. It is incomprehen- sible why the crown of the pillar has been made so wide and heavy. It extends so far over the shaft, that the angel with the cross is not to be seen from beneath ; and to look at it properly one must ascend the second story of the palace, or go the distance of a verst on the Admiralty Platz to observe it thence with a telescope. The worst of all is, that already an abominable worm is gnaw- ing at this beautiful monolith, and it has already received a very sad and offen- sive rent from above towards the mid- dle. It may be that the stone was at first badly chosen, or that the cold of St, Petersburgh will not tolerate such monuments of human art. There are people in St, Petersburgh who think it a patriotic duty to deny the existence of the rent, which has been artfully filled with a cement of granite frag- ments. But in the sunshine, when the polish of the rent shows differently from that of the stone ; or in the winter, when the hoar-frost forms in icicles on the cold stone, but not on the warmer cement, the wicked line is but too ap- parent.
" The idea of this column is, like every- thing else in Russia, religio-political. It was erected in honour of the Emperor Alexander, and is meant to eternalize
with his memory that of the re-con- firmation of the political constitution and of the security of religion. The attack of the irreligious, unbelieving Napoleon is considered in Russia, not only as an attack on the State, but also as one on the faith. Hence the erec- tion of the angel with the cross on the summit. This column, whose capital and ornaments on the pedestal were formed from Turkish cannon, throws into one category all the enemies of Russia, the Turks, the French, &c,, and is the sealing, ratification, and im- mortalization of all the modern victo- ries of the Russian eagle."
ROMANZOFF MONUMENT.
Nearly equidistant from the Aca- demy of Arts and Corps of Cadets is a monument to the field-marshal of this name, erected to his memory for his services against the Turks, The in- scription on it is " Romantzoiva joo- hcedam." To the victories of Ro- manzoff.
" This monument is composed of half-a-dozen different-coloured stones, and is ornamented with patches of metal besides. The obelisk itself is of black granite. It stands in a socket of red marble, whose base is of another colour, in addition to which there are several strata of white marble ; and the whole bears on its extreme point a golden ball, with an eagle hovering over it. In vain we ask what har- mony the artist could find in all these various colours and materials. Fortu- nately this artistical abortion will not last long. There are already several rents and splits in it, and so many pieces broken from all corners, that it looks as if it had stood for centuries. It will soon sink under its own weight. The eight Egyptian Sphinxes, which lie not far from this monument before the Academy of Arts, seem to look de- ridingly on the unimposing obelisk. In defiance of the thousand years of warlike tumult — in defiance of the countless burning suns, of the endless
Russia.
THE SUMMER GARDENS.
513
series of days and nights that have passed over their heads — they look as youthful as if newly born; their skin as smooth and polished as when they came from the chisel."
SUWAKOFP MONUMENT.
This memorial to one of Russia's most distinguished generals is on the Champ de Mars, opposite the Troitszka bridge ; a most appropriate situation. But, were we to judge of his merits as a com- mander by his monument, they were indeed few. Certain it is, as the mar- shal was an original and a wit, he would, if he could see this cenotaph to his genius, make many an epigram upon it. It is a bronze statue, on foot, Avielding a sword in the right hand, and holding a shield in the left, in defence, over the crowns of the Pope, Naples, and Sardinia, which lie at his feet. The position of the statue is that of a fencing- master who is about to show his pupil a thrust — the cos- tume is Roman.
THE SUMMER GARDENS.
These far-famed gardens are on the Neva, close to the Troitzka bridge, and bound the eastern end of the Champ de Mars. They are half a mile in length by a quarter in breadth, and much more frequented than those of the Taurida Palace, or of the Grand Duke Michael.
" It is the oldest garden in the city, contains a number of fine old trees, and is therefore of incalculable value in the centre of the stony masses of the city. It is laid out in a number of long avenues, interspersed with flower beds, somewhat in the ancient style of gar- dening, with an abundance of marble statues of Springs and Summers, Floras and Fauns, and other divinities belong- ing to the same coterie. On the northern side is the celebrated iron railing, which the people will tell you an Englishman once travelled all the way from London to see and make a sketch of, and then returned, satisfied
with his journey, not deigning to cast an eye on any of the other marvels of the northern city." This railing, which is about 16 feet in height, is certainly grand and massive ; it extends nearly a quarter of a mile, and the gilded spikes give it a very elegant effect. The garden is attended to as carefully almost as those of Tzarsko Selo, where a police- man is said to run after every leaf that falls, that it may instantly be removed out of sight. In autumn all the statues are cased in wooden boxes, to protect them against the rain and snow of winter, and all the tender trees and shrubs are at the same time packed up in straw and matting, in which they remain till the return of spring, Avhen statues, trees, and men lay their winter garments aside nearly at one and the same time. The grassplots are regularly watered in summer, and the paths are carefully cleaned and trimmed. And the garden gratefully repays the pains expended on it, for throughout the fine season it forms a delightful retreat, and its turf and its trees in spring are green and smiling, before any of the other gardens have been able to divest themselves of the chill- hardened grain into which their features have been stiffened during a six months' winter.
In one corner of the Summer Garden stands the palace in which dwelt Peter the Great. It is a little low, white house, with a few tasteless bas-reliefs, painted yellow. On the roof between the chimneys, St. George, mounted on a tin horse, is in the act of piercing the dragon. In the interior, a few articles of furniture, formerly used by Peter, are still preserved. The house seems to have grown ashamed of its littleness, for it hides itself completely among the tall linden-trees of the gar- den, as though fearful of intruding into the company of the stately palaces that have grown up around. How differ- ently it must have looked when it was j^et sole lord of the wilderness — when it stood alone amidst a mob of fisher- men's huts. This garden is the great
534
THE ISLANDS.
Sect. V.
lounge of the population of St. Peters- burgh, and on Whit-monday a strange spectacle is to be seen here, for on that day the celebrated festival of the wife marJcet takes place. Here, according to ancient custom, the sons and daughters of the tradesmen assemble in all their finery, to pick and choose a partner for life, or, at any rate, to lay the founda- tion of a future marriage ; for, though this class still muster in great force on "Whit-monday, the practice is not so thoroughly carried out as it used to be. In former days, the girls on this mo- mentous occasion were dressed from head to foot in all their best apparel, and decorated with every ornament they could borrow from their family. It is even said that a Russian mamma once contrived to make a necklace of six dozen gilt teaspoons for her daugh- ter, a girdle of an equal number of tablespoons, and then fastened a couple of punch-ladles behind, in the form of a cross — Greek, of course.
GARDENS OF CATHERINENHOFF.
These gardens were laid out by Peter the Great, in 1711, as a memo- rial of a victory gained on the spot over the Swedes. These and the Summer Gardens were for a long period the only places for the recreation of the citizens of the infant capital. They are now an- nually visited on the 1st of May, when all St. Petersburgh flock there either in carriages, on horseback, or on foot; as indeed the Russians do to some public garden or other in every town in the empire, to hail, it is said, the Spring; though it not unfrequently happens, at St. Petersburgh, that they receive the young lady in their bear skins. The carriages move after a certain pre- scribed plan, the whole day long, like horses in a mill. The Emperor, whose presence crowns this festival, is gene- rally on horseback, accompanied by his sons and a brilliant staff; his arrival on the ground is looked for with im- patience, as if he were the representa- tive of opening crocuses and snow-
drops, and, when he has passed by, the admiring crowd drop off one after the other and go home again, as if the sun himself had disappeared.
The gardens are full of bowling- greens and restaurants, and, while smoking a cigar before one of these latter, the traveller may see half the magnificoes of the empire move slowly past in their carriages-and-four.
THE ISLANDS.
In the whole Delta of the Neva there are more than forty islands, great and small, some of which, although all belong to the precincts of the city, are still completely deserted, inundated by the sea and the Neva, and visited only by seals, or by wolves who come over the ice during the winter, or by fisher- men, in a less inclement season of the year. Many of these swampy and birch-covered islets, such for instance as the Volny and Truktanoff Islands, are scarcely known to many of the inhabitants of St. Petersburgh; and it is a remarkable proof of the wildness and uncultivated region which sur- rounds the capital, at least on one side, that a man may, if he feel so disposed, kill either a bear or a wolf between breakfast and dinner. In hard win- ters, hungry wolves have not only ap- proached the suburbs in search of food, but even the imperial palace. Kohl tells us of a lady who scared one of these animals away with her parasol ; and of another who, being surprised by a bear while reading in her villa in the environs of St, Petersburgh, re- pulsed his advances by throwing her book, a novel of George Sand's, at his head. Five, however, of the islands of the Delta, though originally yielding nothing but shrubs and a few old oaks, birches, and firs, were invaded by the gardener towards the close of the last century, and are now laid out in the most tasteful manner. Imperial palaces arose, too, under the creative hand of Catherine, who made grants of land, and even whole islands, to her favou-
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THE ISLANDS.
515
rites, that they might build and lay out villas and houses there; hence, perhaps, the name datscha (gift) for a villa, with which the Kammenoi, or Stone Island, is nearly covered. These buildings are in every variety of stylp, Grothic, Chinese, &c., and specimens are to be found of all ages and nations in gardening and villa building; but, though costly and luxurious, they are., destitute of the comfort of an English country house. One charm, however, they have, and for this they are in- debted, singular enough, to the severity of the climate; the hothouses are as numerous as the villas, and in the warm weather the balconies, doors, and windows of the datsches are adorned with multitudes of exotic plants. These villas are generally inhabited by the wealthier classes. There is, too, on this island a summer theatre, in which French plays are performed; an im- perial villa, and the hospital for the disabled.
"The datsches of the nobility are all of wood, the Emperor's alone being of stone, and tortured into every incon- gruous form that bad taste can devise ; the whole touched up and picked out with painted cornices and pilasters, in red and yellow ochre, and, once done, left to the mercy of the seasons. Each has just enough ground around to give the idea of an English tea-garden, with every appurtenance of painted wooden arcb, temple, and seat, to confirm it. At the same time it is here the established idea that such houses and such gardens are precise fac-similes of an English country residence, and some Russians are not a little chagrined at our not accepting this piece of homage to our native land. In this neighbourhood is also a Russian village, wooden cottages with deep roofs, and galleries running round like the Swiss, ornamented with most delicately carved wood : of course here was also plenty of red, blue, and yellow, for it seems that without these primary colours little can be done. The love of red, especially, is so inhe-
rent a taste in Russia, that red and heautifxd are, in a popular sense, ex- pressed by the same word. But this is evidently the show village of the capi- tal, and almost entirely let to families for the summer."
Joined to the Kammenoi, on the west, by a bridge, is another garden island, called the Yelaginskoi, or Yel- agin Island, after the name of a family who once possessed it. It is now ex- clusively occupied by the imperial cha- teau and gardens. The Court fre- quently reside here in the spring, the most brilliant season for the islands, but there is no amusement for the public beyond that of strolling about on foot, and lionizing the Emperor's datscha. This has the appearance of an English country residence, with the gravel walks and flower beds in ad- mirable order; the rooms are by no means large, but exceedingly well ar- ranged for living in quietly and com- fortably. The Emperor's own room is a perfect snuggery in its way. This is said to be a favourite resort of the Empress, and no one will, we think, feel disposed to differ with her. The view from the chateau is delightful; first the gardens of the villa, then the broad sheet of the Neva with its verdant banks, and, lastly, the lofty spires of the capi- tal are seen rising in the distance. A promenade, similar to that at Cathe- rinenhoff, takes places later in the year on the Yelagin Island, at which the Imperial family are present ; this fete is more attractive, for the weather is more settled, and the scenery is much finer. To the south of the islands, Yelagin and Kammenoi, is the Kres- tovsJcy, or Cross Island, which lies before the courtly Yelagin and Kam- menoi Ostroff, towards the sea, and is larger than the two former put to- gether. Numerous avenues have been opened through the thick primeval birch and pine wood of this island, and afford agreeable views of the Gulf of Finland. This island is peculiarly the resort of the lower classes of St. Peters-
516
THE ISLANDS.
Sect. V.
burgh ; hither flock the Mujih and the Kupez in gay gondolas, to enjoy, in the woods, their national amusements of swings and Russian mountains, and here on holidays smokes on the grass under every pine-group the favourite somovar, round which may be seen encamped a party of long-beards, gos- siping, singing, and clamouring.
The German part of the population have appropriated to themselves ano- ther island, that of Petroshy. The arrangements are on a smaller scale, and here only are to be found milk and cake gardens, coffee-houses and taverns ; it must not be understood, however, that there is anything exclusive, for datschas, chateau, and Russians mingle here as elsewhere.
The fifth garden island is that of the Apteharslcoi, or Apothecaries' Island, and here is the Botanical Garden, one of the most interesting sights of the capital. This is open to the public on Sundays and holidays.
The science of hothouse gardening is here brought to the utmost perfec- tion, and one of the finest assortments of tropical plants in existence has been collected amid the snows of the north. The whole establishment is under the direction of Mr. Fisher, a Scotchman, whose success in propagat- ing and preserving the most delicate plants is wonderful. The collection of Orchidaceous plants is one of the best in Europe, and agents are em- ployed in many different parts of the Avorld in sending home plants worthy of these immense conservatories.
The traveller should select a holiday or Sunday for seeing the islands, and above all, let him not think of going there on foot, as if he were going from Bond Street to Hyde Park, or from the Palais Royal to the Tuileries; the gardens and buildings are scattered over a large surface, and their beauties are seen to much greater advantage when comfortably seated in a carriage. Kohl states how they should be visited. " Call," he observes, " upon a friend,
if you have one in any of these elegant swamp villas, and enjoy the tea ot evening collation upon his luxurious divans. Then, towards sunset, have a gondola, manned by half-a-dozen sturdy fellows, and row down the arm of the Neva to the Gulf of Finland. Watch there the globe of the northern summer sun sink into the lap of Thetis, and hurry back through the magic July night, and row round some of the islands, taking a wide sweep, for there is plenty of room here on the water also, punching and driving your gon- doliers,m eanwhile, to make them go the faster. Listen then from the water to the sounds from the thick forest, gaze on the lights from the fishing- villages, the late illumination of the brilliant datschas, and hearken to the nightly doings on the islands, where all is as loud by night as it was by day ; and at last, return home like a night-wandering ghost, when, towards one o'clock, the cold dew announces the return of the sun."
The gardens in Count Strogonoff's domain, where there is a fine park, are open to the public. Here is to be seen an antique sarcophagus and marble, vulgarly called the tomb of Homer, which Avas brought from the island of los, in the Archipelago, at the end of the last century. These gardens and those of Count Nessslrode are open to the public daily.
It is ornamented with has reliefs representing scenes from the life of Achilles. There is a little book writ- ten thereon, by Heyne, the celebrated Archaeologist and Professor at Gottin- gen, which has been reproduced by M. Murall.
The traveller will also, perhaps, hear of the villages of St. Petcrsburgh, but those who have read of "sweet Au- burn," and seen a real one, of which there are so many in England, will not be much enchanted by Great and Little Okhta, the Great and Little Derevnia, and the Tshornaj'a Retska, The houses in these villages are constructed of logs
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ROUTE 93. TZARSKO SELO.
517
of fir trees, strongly put together; and are planted like soldiers, in one long straight line. From the houses, hardly one of which possesses a tree, long cab- bage and cucumber plantations stretch into the country on the land side, while the road on the banks of the river is filled on holidays with carriages driv- ing up and down as they do in the avenues of the Garden Islands. Those persons whose revenues are too mo- derate for a Gothic or a Chinese datscha, engage a summer residence in some of these deal houses, and enjoy there as much happiness as a somovar, a pack of cards, and a dusty gallop- ing drive can afford them. A mov- ing crowd is, however, always an ani- mated sight, and in the private gardens at Okhta a Grerman band plays. The gardens at Sergola are also open to the public.
TZARSKO SELO.
This royal residence and favourite resort of the Imperial family is distant about 23 versts from St. Petersburgh, and maybe reached in a hack carriage in two hours ; the road to it was made by the Empress Catherine at a cost of 1,000,000 of rubles. Soon after passing the Moscow barrier two huge figures of bulls are seen in front of a building on the right of the road ; this is the great cattle market, and further on is a triumphal arch similar to that erected at the Riga Gate. There is nothing to attract attention on this road, or anything to indicate that the traveller is in the vicinity of a large capital, un- less it be the imperial milestones, which are of colossal dimensions — the main and two side roads are, it is true, of great width, but the open unculti- vated plain on either hand is swampy and flat. The road for the first seven versts to Tzarsko Selo is that to Mos- cow, and at this point the former turns off to the right. Ne^r here is the royal Chateau of Tchesme, built by the Empress Catherine to commemorate the victory obtained by Orloff over the
Turks on the coast of Anatoli. The edifice is in the form of a Turkish pa- vilion, with a central rotunda con- taining the full-length portraits of sovereigns contemporary with Cathe- rine. Since her death this palace has been deserted. In 1825 Alexander and his consort passed it on their way to the south of Russia, and about eight months after their mortal remains found shelter in it for a night on their way to the Imperial Sepulchre. There is no other object of interest on this road.
We have described the road; but the best and most rapid mode of pro- ceeding to Tzarsko is by the rail- road, the first laid down in Russia; the train will land the traveller at a little distance from the palace, and the trajet of 23 versts is generally per- formed in less than 40 minutes ; droshkys, or, in winter, sledges, are in readiness at the station to carry the passengers on. For upwards of a verst before reaching Tzarsko the road is bounded on either side by a village which seems interminable, one long monotonous row of wooden huts with no- thing to enliven them but a few bearded Mujiks and ugly women. At the en- trance to the grounds of the palace are two small towers carved with Egyptian figures and hieroglyphics, &c. ; a barrier is here thrown across the road, at which a guard is stationed ; the en- trance, when completed, will be covered with iron bas reliefs froin Egyptian scenes, taken from the classical work of Denon on that country.
Opposite the gate called the Caprice is a cluster of white houses, in two rows of different sizes diminishing as they re- cede from the road, and converging at the farthest extremity, altogether a bi- zarre arrangement, and showing the magnificence of Russian gallantry. The Empress Catherine, at the theatre one night, happened to express her plea- sure on seeing the perspective view of a small town, and the next time she visited Tzarsko Selo she saw the scen«
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realized in a town erected by Count OrlolF at an immense expense, before the gate of the palace. The faqade of the palace is 1200 feet in length; ori- ginally every statue, pedestal, and capi- tal of the numerous columns, the vases, carvings and other ornaments in front were covered with gold leaf, and the gold used for that purpose amounted to more than a million of ducats. In a few years the gilding wore off, and the contractors engaged in repairing it of- fered the Empress nearly half a million of silver rubles for the fragments of gold leaf; but Catherine refused, say- ing, ''Je ne suis pas dans I'usage de vendre mes vieilles hardes."
The only gilding which now re- mains is on the dome and cupolas of the church, which are, as usual in Russia, surmounted by the cross and crescent. The front of the palace, to- wards the gardens, is tawdry and glaring, in green, white, and yellow, which at first sight appear to have been smeared on the walls in large patches and stripes, and have a most unpleasant effect. The first portion of the building generally shown is the chapel, a spacious room, fitted up en- tirely with dark-coloured wood, most lavishly gilded, even the ceiling being one bright sheet of gold ; on the walls are some curious old paintings, particu- larly one of a man with a solid wooden beam projecting from his eye, nearly as large and quite as. long as his whole body, while the mote in his neighbour's eye is certainly most visible, as it is half as big as his head. A key of the city of Adrianople hangs beside the altar ; but there is no other emblem of war's havoc and destruction within this temple of the Most High. The royal family have a kind of gallery in the chapel, communicating with their vari- ous apartments in the palace, and situated immediately opposite the screen or Ikonostast.
The Palace of Tzarsko was, at the late Emperor's death, abandoned by the Imperial family, and is therefore bare
of furniture, though the walls and floors are exceedingly richly decorated, the former are either simple white and gold, or hung with rich silks ; the latter par- quetted in the most graceful designs and tender colours, and still as fresh as when first laid down. One very elegant room is that called the lapis lazuli, in which strips of this stone are inlaid in the walls, and the floor of this apartment is of ebony inlaid with large flowers of mother-of-pearl, forming one of the most splendid contrasts possible. The room itself is not very large, but the effect is beautiful. Catherine has been fre- quently accused of Vandalism in having the pictures in this room cut so as to fit the walls. After examining them most narrowly, we do not however think this sin can be laid at her door ; the wall is certainly covered with pictures with- out frames, forming a complete lining, and a most comical group they make — Teniers' boors, with a beautiful Cana- letti of the royal Polish Zamek, most lovingly fastened together, but their fair proportions have not been curtailed. Here is also a celebrated statue of our Saviour by Danneker. But the wonder of this palace is the famous amber room, the walls of which are literally pannelled with this material in various architectu- ral designs, the arms of Frederick the Great, by whom the amber was pre- sented to Catherine II., being moulded in different compartments with the im- perial cipher, the Russian E. for Ekate- rina. Accustomed to see only small pieces of this beautiful substance, one can hardly believe that the large rough fragments projecting from the walls are really amber ; these are coloured a pale yellow, and in several places groups of figures are formed with fragments of this precious substance ingeniously put together, while the frames are composed of larger portions. The eff'ect produced by this species of decoration is, however, too fade and waxy to be pleasing.
The bed-chamber of Catherine is adorned with walls of porcelain and pillars of purple glass, and the bed-
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clothes are those under which she slept the last time she was at the palace. In the banqueting room the entire walls to the height of about nine feet are covered with gold^ which is also laid on most lavishly on the ceilings in al- most all the state apartments. The Chinese room is remarkable for the taste with which everything is ar- ranged after the fantastic fashion which is supposed to be that of the Celestial Empire. Two grand ballrooms are also conspicuous, the upper end of each being occupied by a collection of the most splendid China vases placed on circular tiers up to the ceiling, and marked with the imperial E. The whole palace, in fact, breathes recollec- tions of the great Catherine ; and here are to be seen private rooms with a door communicating with the adjoining apartments, and the gentle descent leading into the garden by which she was wheeled up and down when in- firmity had deprived her of the use of her limbs.
" But the sentiment of the edifice," observes a recent traveller, " dwelt in the simple rooms of the late Em- peror Alexander, whom all remember with affection, and speak of with me- lancholy enthusiasm. His apartments have been kept exactly as he left them when he departed for Taganrog. His writing-cabinet, a small light room with scagliola walls, seemed as if the Impe- rial inmate had just turned his back. There was his writing-table in confu- sion, his well-blotted case, the pens black with ink. Through this was his simple bed-room, where in an alcove, on a slight camp bedstead with linen coverlet, lay the fine person and troubled heart of poor Alexander. On one side was the small table with the little green morocco looking-glass, his simple English shaving apparatus, his brushes, combs, a pocket-handkerchief marked Z. 23. On a chair lay a worn military surtout, beneath were his manly boots. There was something very painful in these relics. If preserved by
fraternal affection, it seems strange that the same feeling should not shield them from strangers' eyes and touch.
The palace of the Emperor Nicho- las, originally built, upon the marriage of her grandson Alexander, by the Empress Catherine, excited very dif- ferent feelings. It was simpler in de- coration than many a noble's at Peters- burgh, clean as possible, and light with the rays of the bright winter's sun. The only objects on the plain walls of the great drawing room were a small print of Admiral Sir Edward Codring- ton, and the busts of the seven Imperial children in infantine beauty. The Emperor's own room, in point of heavy writing-tables and bureaux, was that of a man of business, but his military tastes peeped through all. Around on the walls were arranged glass cases containing models of the different ca- valry regiments, executed, man and horse, with the greatest beauty, and right, as a military attendant assured us, to a button ; and this, it seems, is the one thing needful. Paintings of military manoeuvres and stiff squares of soldiers were also dispersed through his apartments.
Leaving this, we proceeded to the arsenal, a recent red brick erection in English Gothic, in the form of many an old English gatehouse, and a most picturesque object in the most pictu- resque part of these noble gardens. Here a few weather-beaten veterans reside, who, peeping at our party through the latticed windows, opened the arched doors; and, once within, to an antiquarian eye, all was enchant- ment. For several successions the Russian sovereigns have amassed a collection of armour and curious antique instruments. These have been increased in the reign of his present Majesty, who erected this building purposely for their reception, and intrusted their classification and arrangement to an Englishman ; and truly that gentleman has done credit to the known antiqua rian tastes of his own land.
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It would be impossible to enumerate the objects here preserved, consisting chiefly of ancient armour, weapons, and accoutrements of every description, for man and horse, from every warlike nation, both Christian and idolater. Figures in armour guard the entrance and lead the eye along the winding staircase, whence you enter a lofty cir- cular vaulted hall, with oak flooring, and walls hung round with carbines, lances, &c., in fanciful devices, and where, placed on high pedestals in a circle round the room, are eight equest- rian figures in full accoutrements and as large as life, like our kings in the Tower. Between these you pass on to various little alcoves or oratories with groined ceiling and stained window, whose light falls on the gorgeously wrought silver cross or precious missal of some early pope, or on the diamond and pearl-woven trappings of present Turkish luxury ; or on the hunting- horn, with ivory handle of exquisitely carved figures of some doughty German Markgraf of the olden time, or on the jousting instruments and other play- things of the araazons of Catherine II.'s court.
In a glass case in the arsenal are preserved the small silver drum and trumpet given by Catherine to the Emperor Paul in his childhood, and beside them is the autograph letter of Bessieres to Davoust, as Grovernor of Moscow, ordering him to evacuate the city.
In a recess are placed two sets of horse trappings presented by the Sultan to the Emperor — the first on concluding the peace of Adrianople, when the *' yellow-haired Griaours," passed vic- toriously the mountain barrier of the Balkan, and were well-nigh at the gates of his capital. This saddle is superb, with its trappings of purple velvet studded with diamonds, and its stirrups of gold ; but the other makes its glories dim the instant one beholds them together. This was given when the Porte sued as a suppliant to Russia
for an auxiliary force to defend a totter- ing throne against a rebellious vassal, after the fatal field of Konieh had wit- nessed the overthrow of the only army the Sultan possessed. The diamonds on the pistol holsters of this saddle are of unusual size, and their brightness perfectly dazzling, while every part of the saddle and bridle is actually covered with brilliants. Several swords, stud- ded with diamonds, are also preserved here ; for the most part presents from various sovereigns to the present Em- peror.
But this pleasant arsenal, the only memento in this capital of modern objects and ephemeral fashions which recalls the past, would require a volume to itself, and offers inexhaustible in- terest to the artist in mind, and a very treasury of beautiful subjects to the artist in profession. By command of the Emperor, a most careful and ela- borate delineation of its contents, by the best artists of the day, and under the direction of M. Velton of Peters- burgh, is going forward, to appear in numbers, of which at present only a few have been completed. These are the most exquisite specimens of drawing and emblazonry, and offer an interest only second to that of the arsenal it- self. But the price is high, 500 rubles a number.
The grounds around this palace are eighteen miles in circumference, and contain plenty of larch, oak, and elm, which seem to flourish ; the gardens are certainly the most carefully kept in the world ; the trees and flowers are watched and inspected with the most anxious minuteness. An old invalid soldier commands his 500 or 600 men as gardeners and overseers. After every falling leaf runs a veteran to pick it up ; and after a violent north wind they have enough to do, as may be well imagined. Every tiny leaf that falls in pond or canal is carefully fished out ; they dust and trim and polish the trees and paths in the gardens, as they do the looking-glasses and fiir-
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niture of the saloons ; every stone that is kicked aside is laid straight again, and every blade of grass kept in a proper position. We once saw here an inquiry instituted about a broken flower, and carried on with as much solemnity as if it had been a capital offence. All the gardeners were called together, the in- spector held the flower in his hand, and every possible question was put, as to whose division, and out of what bed, the flower might have been taken ; whe- ther plucked by a child, or broken by a dog ; and this investigation proceeded with the profoundest seriousness, and the closest contemplation of the corpus delicti; threats were lavished, rewards for the discovery of the off"ender were promised, &c. The cost of all this polishing and furbishing alone is above 100,000 rubles yearly, but then the sacrifice keeps the gardens in the order of a ball-room.
The odd caprices exhibited in the decoration of the grounds are really extraordinary, and so numerous, that it would be difficult to enumerate them all. In one corner is the tower of the Crown Prince, an ornam.ental building in several stories, where this young prince resided with his tutor ; in an- other are the baby-houses of the young Grand Duchesses, where they carried on a mimic inenage. In front of a Chinese tower is a high pole, rigged like the mast of a frigate, for the young Grand Duke Constantine to practise his '' hand over hand" upon. On one of the ponds is a fleet of pigmy vessels, intended to amuse the youthful admiral in his professional studies. In addition to all these strange objects are a theatre, a Chinese village, a Dutch and Swiss cow- house, a Turkish kiosk, a summer- house in the form of an Ionic colon- nade supporting an aerial garden, planted with flowers, a Gothic building called the Admiralty, a marble bridge with Corinthian columns of polished marble, also rostral pillars and bronze statues which Catherine erected to her favourites; amongst these is a column to
, Orloff". There are likewise some com- memorative monuments raised by Alex- ander to his " companions in arms," intermingled with fields of roses, her- mitages, artificial ruins, Eoman tombs, grottoes and waterfalls, Tzarsko Selo is seen to more advantage on Wednes- days and Sundays, as on those days only can the armoury and the inte- rior of the palace be seen. Since the death of the late emperor the palace has been untenanted except by servants ; the Imperial family, when they come here, inhabit a large building in the park. Like almost all other royal build- ings in Russia, Tzarsko owes its origin to Peter the Great, He erected the first house here, and planted, to his eternal praise, the avenues of plane trees with his own hand ; but it was the Empress Elizabeth who built the castle, which was further embellished by Catherine, and after the great fire it was restored by Alexander.
The two imperial residences of Paul- ofsky and Gatchina, the favourite abode of the late Erh press mother, but now seldom, if ever, visited by any member of the Imperial family, are situated be- yond Tzarsko Selo ; the one at the distance of about eight, the other about twenty-five English miles. The gardens of Paulofsk are less magnificent but more attractive than those of Tzarsko Selo. According to Swinin, the walks in these gardens amount to 150 versts in length, and there is so much variety in the disposition of them, and in the shrubs and grouping of the trees, that Russian literature may boast of several books written on this subject alone. Paulofsky may also be reached by the railway. There are many villas there, and a band plays in the gardens during the summer months. These gardens, and the palace, are the property of the Grand Duke Michael.
STRELNA AND PETERHOF.
The road to Tzarsko Selo excepted, the coast road to Peterhof is certainly
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the most lively and best inhabited of any in the environs of the capital ; the road, too, is broad, finely paved, with excellent bridges and handsome granite mile-stones. It is a proof, however, of the general monotony of Russian road- side scenery, that the verst-stones are almost the only, at any rate the most striking landmarks, and in this sense are really very useful ; for instance, a Petersburghian wishing to explain to a friend where his villa is situated, will say — " We are living this year on the Peterhof road, at the seventh verst," or *^ th e OrlofF Datsha stands at the ele venth verst," " We will take our dinner at the Traktir's at the fourteenth verst," as if these mile-stones were pyramids. But so it is, there are neither valleys, brooks, nor smiling villages, gnarled oaks or giant elms, whereby to distin- guish places, and people can find their way only by considering the position, of the mile-stones.
Peterhof is distant from St. Peters- burgh twenty-five versts ; the road to it is by the Riga Gate, where the traveller will pass under the triumphal arch erected by the inhabitants to celebrate the return of the Russian army from Paris. This structure is cumbrous in the extreme, covered with sheets of copper supporting a brazen triumphal car drawn by six horses abreast, in which is a figure of victory. Shortly after passing the Riga Gate, the tra- veller will see on the right the old palace of Catharinenhof, already men- tioned as the rendezvous of the Rus- sians on May-day. The castle is novv deserted as a royal residence, and is fast sinking into the bosom of the mo- rass on which it was built ; its decay was greatly accelerated by the inunda- tion of the Neva in 1824. Beyond this is the Annenhof Lunatic Asylum, founded by the Empress Anne, whose name it bears, which was removed here from its original situation within the city in order that the patients should have an additional chance of regaining their reason in the calmer I
situation and fresh air of the open country.
As far as Strelna the traveller follows the great western road that leads to Germany, which here branches off to the south, while the road to PeterhofF continues its course along the southern bank of the Neva. This alone of all the approaches to the capital is lined with the villas and country seats of Russian nobles and merchants, many of which are alike conspicuous for their splendour and elegance, but seem al- most without exception to be much better adapted for the warm and genial climate of some land of the sun than the stern inhospitable shore of a sea which is frozen nearly half the year. At the distance of four or five miles from St. Petersburgh the line of houses on the right hand ceases, and the wide expanse of the Neva spreads before the windows and terraces of the houses which border the road on the left hand.
The palace of Strelna is a pretty Gothic building, situated on a command- ing position, immediately overhanging the Neva; but its interior is plain, and, with the exception of the ball-room, by no means splendidly fuinished. In this building are several pictures by Russian artists, Orlofsky, VolkofF, and others of considerable merit, together with a few of the Italian school. Since the death of Constantine, this, like most of the other royal residences near the Russian capi- tal, has been untenanted.
From hence to Peterhof, a distance of eight versts, the road winds along the shore of the Neva, still presenting a succession of villas and pavilions, with gardens and Dutch cottages in every variety of shape. >
Nothing can be finer than the actual situation of the palace at Peterhof; on the verge of a steep declivity its win- dows command the whole extent of the Neva, from Cronstadt to St. Peters- burgh, with the green islands of the Neva and the shore of Finland be- yond. But of late years it seems
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to have found but little favour in the eyes of the Imperial family ; and, though both garden and palaces are still kept in the strictest order, they are seldom visited by them. The gar- dens are not so extensive as those at Tzarsko Selo ; but their situation is far more beautiful, and their arrangement more tasteful. The water^wqrks are considered but little, inferior to those at Versailles. That called the Sampson, in front of the palace, is a magnificent jet d'eau, eighty feet higK and from it to the sea, a distance oifive hundred yards, runs a canal, wherein are many smaller fountains. On each side of the fountain of , Sampson, so called from a colossal bronze figure tearing open the jaws of a lion from whence rushes the water, are other jets d'eau which throw water vertically and horizontally ; these basins are at the foot of the elevation on which the palace stands. In the centre is a broad flight of steps leading to the castle, and on each side a con- tinuous range of marble slabs to the top of the hill over which the water pours down, the slabs being placed high and far apart so as to allow lamps to be ar- ranged behind the water. This is done at the Peterhof fetes.
The present Emperor, when at Pe- terhof, does not occupy the Imperial palace, but a wooden pavilion, in which he resided when grand duke. The suite of apartments in which the Em- peror Alexander lived when last at Peterhof have never since been inha- bited ; and all remains as he left it.
The principal attraction at Peterhof is the old castle built by Peter the Great ; and, although every emperor and empress has made alterations and additions, the character of the whole is the same as that of all the palaces built by that Tzar ; even the yellow colour, which was its original hue, is always renewed, and like them its architecture is very insignificant in character, and deserves as little to be mentioned with Versailles or the other French cha- teaux, which may have served as mo-
dels, as the Kazan Church deserves to be compared with St. Peter's at Rome. The interior presents in many instances the same curious mixture of simplicity and tawdriness as the old summer palace and the Taurida.
Here, however, are to be seen some beautiful tapestries, countless articles of bijouterie, tazzas of porcelain, mala- chite, and marble, and a number of pictures chiefly representing the naval victories of Orloff and other Russian Generals of Catherine II. In the castle is also one highly interesting apartment, containing a collection of 368 female por- traits executed by a certain Count E.o- tali for that Empress during a journey which he made through the fifty govern- ments of Russia. They are all beautiful young girls, whom the count has painted in picturesque attitudes, and in their na- tional costume ; and one cannot but ad- mire the inventive genius of the artist in giving a different position and ex- pression to so many faces. One pretty girl is knitting diligently, another em- broidering ; one peeps archly from be- hind a curtain, another gazes expect- ingly from a window ; another leans over a chair, as if listening to her lover ; a sixth, reclining on cushions, seems lost in thought. One slumbers so softly and so sweetly that a man must be a Laplander in apathy not to wish for a kiss ; this stands before a glass, comb- ing her beautiful hair ; that has buried , herself up to the ears in fur, leaving' visible only a pair of tender rosy lips, and soft blue eyes gleaming from under the wild bear's skin. There are also some excellent portraits of old people — two in particular — an old man with a staflf, and an old woman by the fire. This collection is unique in its kind, and would be invaluable for a physiog- nomist, if he could be certain that these portraits were as exact and faith- ful as they are pleasing and tasteful. But this is doubtful, for they all bear, undeniably, rather the stamp of the French school than of the Russian, Tartar, Finnish, or any other nation-
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EOUTE 93. — STKELNA AND PETEKHOF.
Sect. V.
ality within the Russian empire. It is also a suspicious circumstance, that they were done by a gentleman for a lady ; and probably behind every graceful attitude some flattering homage to the Empress lies concealed; the other apartments do not contain any- thing very remarkable. In one are the little table and benches with which the Emperors Alexander and Nicholas played as children ; in another, some carving and turner's work of Peter the Great. In one room are shown the blots of ink, made by this emperor or that, while engaged in his boyish stu- dies ; and in another is seen on the ceiling an extraordinary picture, re- presenting a whole corps of angels playing from notes ! every one with his -music lying on a cloud by way of desk ! — while a fifth room contains all the gods of Greece, also reclining on clouds.
Descending from the palace to the sea-shore, the garden is laid out in ter- races adorned with fountains and water- falls ; the basins, the Neptunes, storks, swans, and nymphs, the tritons, dol- phins, painted rocks, and grottoes are copied from the engravings in Hush- field's Art of Gardening ; these are cora- mon-place enough ; not so the oaks and lime-trees planted by Peter himself, which one cannot pass without notice. The smaller buildings of Marly and Monplaisir, which lie under these trees as wings to the larger edifice, remind the spectator, as the small house in the summer garden has done, of the modest domestic arrangements of the carpenter of Sardaam, the great reformer of Eastern Europe.
It was from Marly that Peter the Great loved to contemplate his infant fleet, moored beneath the • batteries of Cronstadt. In Monplaisir, a low Dutch- built summer-house, the Empress Eliza- beth used to amuse her royal leisure by cooking her own dinner. In this lowly abode the great Peter breathed his last, and his bed is still preserved untouched since his death, and now fast crumbling
to decay. The last act of his life, the attempt to succour a stranded vessel, was well worthy to close the busy ca- reer of such a being as Peter.
The Hermitage is chiefly remarkable for the contrivance by which the dishes and plates descend from the table through grooves cut in the floor, and are replaced by others without any ser- vant being seen.
The famous Cottage of Catherine is, without, all plain, even to poverty; within, all glorious and radiant with gold, and mirrors reflecting each ob- ject, giving the tiny dwelling an ap- pearance of size and magnificence quite astonishing. The present Empress has a small palace in the park of Peterhof, called Sniamnisky.
There is also a low thatched build- ing, called the Straiv Palace. In a piece of water in the gardens are a great many tame carp, which are regu- larly fed, and come to the visitors as readily as the swans in St. James's Park, or a parish clerk for his Christ- mas-box.
We strongly recommend the traveller to see, if possible, the renowned Peter- ^iof fetes, which take place in July ; the water-works, illuminations, and ball are nulli secundus. The least fa- tiguing mode of reaching the spot is in a steamer, the embarkation generally takes place at the English quay ; there are sometimes as many as 250,000 per- sons present at this fete. During the three days the holiday lasts all is life, revelry, and display. The rest of the year Peterhof looks as if no one was at home.
A few versts from hence is the country seat of Rojpscha, at which Peter III. met his death. Beyond Peterhof, in a situation, if possible, more beautiful and commanding, stands Oranienbaum, now the property of the Gand Duke Michael. It was originally bestowed upon Prince Menzikoflf by Peter, to whom it again reverted on the disgrace and banishment of that proud courtier.
Bussia. KouTE 93. — the biding house. — the exchange. 525
SUMMART.
We think we have now enumerated and described all the principal objects of interest which are to be seen at St. Petersburgh, but there still remain to be cited a few of less importance which may be interesting to the traveller. In this summary should be mentioned the colossal manege or Riding House, in the MichailofF quarter, in which a regi- ment of infantry, or two squadrons of cavalry, may manoeuvre at their ease. The Circassians of the guard are sometimes seen here performing their favourite feats of horsemanship or shoot- ing at a mark, and the reverberation of their pistols may well puzzle the scientific student of acoustics, so singu- larly loud is the report. The roof, with its appendages, presses on the walls with a weight of 15,000 tons, the iron rods alone weighing 5700 tons ; to this must be added 3000 great trees made use of in the wood- work, and 2000 square fathoms of iron plates with which the Avhole is covered on the outside. Sixteen immense stoves warm the building, and the walls are lined with thick woollen cloth ; it was built in the reign of the Emperor Paul.
Also worthy of notice is an equally colossal edifice called the Palace of the Senate, in which is a copy of the Rus- sian laws, said to have been written by Catherine II. with her own hand, and as such kept most carefully guarded in a silver shrine.
The Hotel de VFAat Major. — Imme- diately fronting the Winter Palace is likewise one of the many striking piles of buildings in the City of Palaces, and remarkable for its vast extent and sin- gular architectural ornament of a cha- riot of Victory, drawn by eight horses, which are rearing and plunging in all directions to the no small discomfort of the plumed and mailed lady who drives the team. From the arch over which this group is placed one of the most
pleasing views of the Winter Palace and the adjacent buildings may be obtained. The traveller will do well to get an order to see the Etat Major, as it is one of the most interesting in- stitutions in St. Petersburgh.
The Exchange. — A fine building on the Vassili Island, should be visited at Change hours, that is to say, between three o'clock and five, the coup d'oeil of the foreign and Russian merchants to be seen there at those hours talking to one another in every variety of tongue is an amusing sight. Stately flights of steps lead from this very noble edifice to the river, and on the open space in front of it are two massive " Columnse Rostratae " above one hundred feet in height, decorated with the prows of ships erected to the honour of Mercury. These columns are hollow, and on their summits, which we reached by a flight of iron steps, are gigantic vases that are filled with combustibles on all oc- casions of public illumination. The erection of the whole, including the quays, occupied nearly twelve years, from 1804 to 1816, a most unheard-of period in St. Petersburgh, where a copy of St. Peter's at Rome was "got up in two years," and a new Imperial palace rose from its ashes in eleven months. The great hall of the Ex- change, which is of colossal propor- tions, is lighted from above. At either end on both sides are spaces in the form of arcades : in one of the first stands an altar, with lamps constantly burning, for the benefit of the pious Russian merchants, who always bow to the altar, and sometimes even prostrate themselves, on their entrance, to im- plore the favour of all the saints to their undertakings. The great gun on the Exchange is Baron Stiglitz; and tallow is there the staple article of con- versation.
A visit to the Imperial stables will oc- cupy an hour. In the winter it is well worth while to hear the Imperial Choir practise ; this they do every Friday at AA 3
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ROUTE 93. — GUARD MOUNTING.
Sect. V.
twelve o'clock in their establisliment near the Winter Palace. As the room is generally crowded, the visitor should go a quarter of an hour before the time. It is necessary to have a ticket of ad- mission, and this should be applied for two days before; the Director lives in the upper story of the building.
To a military man the inspection of the large barracks of the guards will be interesting, also the parade grounds, of which there are several of unusual extent. The Tzarizinskoi Lug, or Field of the Tzars, which has incor- rectly been translated the Champ de Mars, is more used than any other for military manoeuvres ; but the Alex- andrefskoi parade ground, near the Nevskoi Monastery, is the largest of all, and occupies fully a square verst. The chief parade, however, is held in the square of the admiralty, and forms one of the daily enjoyments of many of the inhabitants. The Emperor fre- quently commands here in person, and as there are always several thousand men on the ground, and a host of guardsmen and staff officers, this parade forms a handsome spectacle, and is in fact fre- quently a review, for 100,000 men can be manoeuvred here. As the Emperor advances accompanied by his sons and splendid staiF, the troops, drawn up in line, " present arms," and the specta- tors uncover their heads. " Good morning, my children," is the Em- peror's salutation. "We thank your Majesty," is the response that comes thundering in unison from thousands of throats. The parade sometimes lasts several hours, and whoever has wit- nessed a portion of it, taken a stroll down the Nevskoi Prospekt, looked into the summer gardens, and walked up and down the English quay, may quiet his conscience with the reflection that he has neglected no part of the St. Petersburgh promenades for that day. There are at some periods of the year upwards of 60,000 troops in the capital, when every variety of costume
is to be seen on this parade. The uni- forms are endless, including Cossack, Circassian, Tartar, and Kalmuck. The Semenofskoi and Preobrajenski parade grounds, though not so large as that of Alexander, are calculated for manoeuvr- ing a very large body of men. The troops go under canvas during the summer months, and are generally en- camped at Krasno Selo or some other place in the environs of the capital. The reviews during this season are well worthy of being seen, and particularly interesting to the military man; if he has his uniform with him, he will do well to put it on. At the re- views which are occasionally held in the interior of Russia or Poland, offi- cers in the British army, who appear in uniform, are furnished with horses and quarters, and every attention is paid to them.
Should the traveller be in St. Peters- burgh in the spring, he will have the opportunity of seeing the Russians in the excitement of their great Easter festival ; this is preceded by a car- nival of eight days, styled the butter week, for then the favourite dish called Blinni, a pancake baked in butter, served with a sauce of melted butter and eaten with caviare, is punctually served at every breakfast, and these cakes are never made at any other time of the year. After this breakfast, the Russians go and swing till dinner time, and in this amusement all classes par- ticipate. After this comes the long fast of seven weeks, and then Easter,, which is the climax of festivity. Dur- ing the Butter- week, theatres and booths of wood are erected in the open spaces about the Admiralty and Etat Major; the former are immense struc- tures. The festival called the blessing of the waters, which takes place at the opening of the Neva, generally between the 18th and 26th of April, is also highly characteristic; it is then that the bridges of boats are restored, and to the construction of that of the
Russia.
EOUTE 93. — THE FISH PEESEKVES.
527
Troitzkoi, and St, Izak, we call the traveller's attention ; an iron bridge between the latter and the end of the English quay is now being erected, and when completed will be of im- mense advantage.
The festival to the memory of their dead is a singular observance of the Russian population; this is held the Monday after Easter, thence called '' Pominatelnui poniedelnik," or Recol- lection Monday. Thousands congre- gate to the churchyards on this day, bringing with them eatables and drink- ables of every kind and description, and the funeral picnic, which opens with the mournful recollection that a wife or a friend has been taken from them, closes amidst the most uproarious scenes of revelling. Cloths are spread over the graves of their deceased rela- tives, and on these are placed the piroga, or some other favourite dish, and plenty of quass, punch, and such- like compounds. " Here 's to the me- mory of Ivan Dimitrivitch," says one, with a glass of brandy in his hand ; " Poor Ivan, he cannot drink himself, and therefore we will drink for him ;" and thus they drown their sorrow.
Foreigners who are at St. Peters- burgh during the winter will be highly amused with the exciting and agree- able pastime of the ice hills, which are the great focus of attraction while the frost lasts. These ice hills are made of large blocks of ice, cemented together by water being poured into the inter- stices, the plane at the foot of the in- cline, of which the angle is consider- able, being similarly constructed. On the summit of each hill is a wooden tower, which is gained by a commo- dious flight of steps, and from it parties get into their sledges, and are projected down the incline and along the level at the foot, until they arrive at the bottom of the next hill; here they leave their sledges, which are carried, by men employed for the purpose, to the top of the next tower, when they again are launched olf. The sledge
used in this exercise is a slight frame- work of steel, about one foot high and three long, having on the top a cushion for a seat. The Russian nobility, the English, the Germans, and French, have each their separate hills, erected by sub- scription amongst themselves, in some inclosed spot; there are also many public ones, for all classes. A large space on the Neva is carefully levelled and inclosed, for trotting and ambling matches, in harness, — a favourite amuse- ment of the Russian merchants, who take great pride in the speed and ac- tion of their horses. The sledges used in this species of sport are of the slightest construction, sometimes not weighing more than fifty pounds. It is entirely a Sunday amusement, as are most others. Skating is not in vogue more than a few weeks, it is tame to a Russian, compared to his ice- hill ; this and the swing are their two most popular enjoyments. A stroll to the markets of frozen provisions must not be forgotten at this season of the year.
The national sports of our countrymen may, too, be indulged in at St. Peters- burgh; the English merchants have a subscription pack of fox-hounds : their success, however, has been stated as partial, and the only good run on record is one they had with a wolf, which was fairly run into in the open country, after a two hours' burst without a check. It should be remarked, that the marshy nature of the soil is not adapted to this kind of sport. There is bear, elk, and wolf hunting in the neighbourhood of the capital, and some of the British residents there are very keen sportsmen.
In summer an evening will always be agreeably spent on the Neva, row- ing along the quays, or visiting the fish reservoirs, or zadoks, which are very interesting. These floating fish maga- zines on the Neva are even more in- teresting to the stranger than the wash- ing-boats, which are also worthy of a passing glance. Ever kind of fish,
528
EOOTE 93. THE BEER CELLARS.
Sect. V.
alive in summer and frozen in winter, as well as dried and smoked, may be purchased in these zadohs ; and in some of them there is a kind of refreshment room, set apart for those who visit them for the purpose of eating caviare in perfection.
A lounge into the fruit shops of the Nevskoi Prospekt will kill an hour, and a stroll into the English magazine in the same street, and a splendid new Bazaar, will enable the visitor to purchase, if he is in want of one, a Russian leather portmanteau, or a nightcap, if he is so unfortunate as to wear and lose one. The magazine of Gramb, a cabinet-maker, is very cele- brated, and worth seeing. The coffin shops are a characteristic of the capital. These melancholy commodities are piled up by hundreds, for all religions, ranks, and ages ; black with golden crosses, for the Lutheran Protestants ; brown and light colours, for the Russians of the Greek Church ; small rose-coloured ones with white lace, for young girls; and azure blue, for the boys. As the dead are always laid out immediately in Russia, coffins must be kept ready made, and in considerable numbers to afford a choice. Kohl advises the fo- reigner to visit the wine and beer cellars frequented by the lower orders, the walls of which are adorned with pic- tures that offer many facilities for study- ing the national character of the Russians. In the most glaring colours are repre- sented the mujik's idea of the most im- portant subjects of human thought ; the Deity, heaven, hell, the soul, and the cre- ation of the world, without some refer- ence to which, they would not venture even to swallow a mouthful of hvass. Tap-rooms of this kind are usually pa- pered with such pictures like a show- box. The study of them is the more in- teresting because they are in general very old, and with many of them not the slightest deviation from old established types is ever permitted. They are generally the production of the church painters of Moscow and Kieff, in which
cities, under the shadow of the most ancient and most sacred temples of Russia, this kindred branch of industry is still in high preservation, and the fancy they display is exceedingly lively and orientally grotesque. You may see, for example, the day of creation depicted on an enormous scale. On the upper part Chaos is represented by dark, vigorous strokes ; morass, Avater, and unformed masses of rock in fearful confusion ; over it lowers a thick dark cloud, made palpable by a single stroke of the brush ; in the midst hovers the Creator under the physiognomy of a Russian priest, from whose mouth pro- ceeds the creative, " Be thou," scrawled in the old Slavonian character; and beneath it the sun and the stars glide out of Chaos, the sun closely resembling a Medusa's head, attended by the moon and the seven greater planets. The name of every star is written in the Slavonian character. All the other stars are running after a solid blue beam, which represents the firmament. They revolve, sun and all, about the earth, of which a portion, the Grarden of Eden, is indicated on the lower part of the canvas, and on it smiles the sun, his rays indicated by a multitude of yellow stripes crossing one another. On either side over Paradise, clouds are heaped; from one-half fall thick spots as black as ink, near which is written, " rain," and out of the other, an equally generous allowance of white dabs, with "' snow," written in great letters on the other side; for a Russian can hardly picture to himself Paradise without snow. Round about Paradise runs a garland of mountains, some of whose summits reach the stars. The less a Russian knows of mountains, the more liberally his fancy paints them. The edges of the mountains are abun- dantly sprinkled with flowers of every colour of the rainbow, and almost as big as the mountains themselves. Be- tween every two flowers stands regu- larly a tree, the tree sometimes over- shadowing the flowers, and sometimes
Russia.
KOUTE 91. ST. PETERSBUKGH TO MOSCOW.
529
the flowers overshadowing the tree, and near them several times inscribed the words, " the blooming flowers, the blooming flowers." In the middle of the garden, Adam and Eve are kneel- ing, a Russian and his wife ; close to them, a fountain, breathed on by two swollen-cheeked cherub-heads, signify- ing the air, and dancing over it, a gigantic will-o'-the-wisp indicating fire. All around, in the tumultuous excite- ment of creation's dawn, all the crea- tures of nature and fancy seem to be bellowing; all the birds, real and un- real, the elephant, the lion, the unicorn, the seducing serpent, the leviathan, the hare, the carp, the fish of Jonas, the four beasts of the Apocalypse, rats and mice. The whole picture is in a frame of arabesques of wreaths and heads of saints and angels.
In this style all the pictures are done. Mount Athos, so renowned in the Russian Greek church, is never represented with less than a hundred and fifty churches and convents on it.
At Novava Derevnya is the new establishment of Struve for mineral waters, a magnificent house, with ele- gant saloons, and promenades under cover. It stands in the midst of a bare swamp, nearly four (English) miles from the centre of the town. In sum- mer this is a favourite resort of the fashionable world of the islands ; an unprejudiced person finds it difficult to comprehend why so useful an esta- blishment was formed in such a place. Those who drive out and back again every day to enjoy this mock Carlsbad might go to the real one for the same expense of time and money.
The picture galleries of Count Strogo- nofF, Mr. Narishkin, Prince Belozel- sky, and of Prince Besborodko should, if possible, be visited. A stranger, on sending his card to the houses of these gentlemen, and expressing a wish to see their collections, will be admitted without difficulty. The studies of Baron Klot, Monsieur Ladournaire, Ortofsky, the Russian Horace Vernet,
and Monsieur Jaques, where the visitor may moralize over a stag, or his statue of Peter the Great, will be found highly interesting. Baron Klot, an Esthonian nobleman and an old military man, has, in the evening of life, and without the advantage of foreign study, produced some very admirable works in sculp- ture.
A Russian artist of the name of Tol- stoy has also a good reputation ; his bas reliefs, illustrating the campaign of 1812, are executed with great spirit.
At Dixon's, in the Mala Morskoi, English books and stationery may be procured. The best bookseller for German and French books is BriefF and Grafe, the first Russian publisher is Smirdin,
While these sheets were going through the press, the Editor learnt with regret of the decease of Mrs. Wil- son ; the traveller will, however, be glad to know that the merited reputa- tion of this boarding-house exists under the attentive management of her suc- cessor. There is also another pension not mentioned, kept by a Mr. Spink. On the same authority we may state the existence of two other restaurateurs, those of Dusean (formerly that of Le Grand) and St. George. To the last- mentioned house is attached a delight- ful garden tastefully laid out in walks, and furnished with hesetkas (summer- houses), for the accommodation of visi- tors ; there is also the Cafe Dominique. In addition to the newspapers named as being admitted into Russia should be added t\ie Evening Mail, Galignani, and La Presse.
ROUTE 94.
ST. PETERSBtJRaH TO MOSCOW.
For information respecting the pada- roshna, posting, diligences, railway, &c., see page 388 to 393.
The passport, or padaroshna, having been examined at the Moscow gate of St. Petersburgh, the Imperial toll bar is raised, and the traveller will find
530
KOUTE 94. — ST. PETEKSBURGH TO MOSCOW. Sect. V.
himself, if posting, bowling along at the rate of twelve miles an hour ; if railing, at a somewhat better pace ; but we will now assume that he in- tends to take the road, and is comfort- ably ensconced either in the corner of his carriage or the diligence, prepared to travel over one of the best roads but most unpicturesque countries in Europe, The width of the road on leaving the capital will surprise him if he com- pares it with the scanty numbers of the passers to and fro. The central chaus- see is exceedingly wide, and on either side is another road, itself of ample di- mensions, separated from the main road by a deep ditch, but communicating at intervals by bridges. These three roads run in this manner parallel to each other for the first six or seven versts, until the main road divides at a small village, branching off to Tzarsko Selo on the right, while the left branch leads to Moscow. There is nothing on these seven versts to denote the vicinity of a capital, unless it is the avenue of trees and the granite mile-stones eight feet high ; very few houses are built by the roadside, and these are principally of wood, and of an inferior description. Those who travelled between the an- cient and modern capitals of the Eus- sian empire before the present mac- adamized road was made and diligences were established, described the suffer- ings they underwent in such fearful colours that it appeared little less ap- palling than an expedition to the back woods of America before roads and steam boats were known in that country. " No man," remarks one author, " should think of setting out without a tea-kettle and a saucepan, the lid of which may serve as a dish, and a sup- ply of provisions, particularly a cheese;" and that there was no exaggeration in this may fairly be believed by what is actually the character of roadside ac- commodation and travelling in almost every other part of Russia, to say no- thing of the roads themselves, to which the reader's attention has been drawn
in the preliminary information given it the commencement of this section of the Hand-Book. However, no disa- greeables of this kind- exist between Moscow and St, Petersburgh ; the road, as we have already remarked, is excel- lent, and kept in very good repair by the numerous gangs of cantonniers who are stationed at short distances along the road. The hasarmes (or barracks), as they are called, in which these men reside, are the only pretty objects on the road, being conspicuous for their extreme neatness and the order in which their gardens in the rear are kept. These men are generally retired soldiers of good character, and the situ- ation is a kind of honourable retreat for past services. The mode, however, in which they repair the object of their care would not please the fastidious eye of a road surveyor in England ; very little is picked up with the axe when new material is laid on, which is chiefly granite from the boulders in the neigh- bouring forests. The number of men employed in this service must be very great, as we frequently passed compa- nies of thirty or forty, working in places where substantial repairs were going on, and solitary stragglers in their long grey coats were to be seen continually besetting the slightest in- equality. The road throughout its whole extent is in the same order, hard and smooth, and so long as the present excessive attention is bestowed upon its preservation, and so few heavy ve- hicles travel upon it, it Avill continue one of the finest roads in Europe, " It is macadamized through its whole ex- tent ; in many places the old ' cor- duroy' road, made by Peter the Great, is still seen by the side of the chaus- see."
This corduroy road was in some parts a mere causeway formed of trees lying transversely, and must have been an agreeable road to travel on in carriages without springs, frequently the case in Russia, for the logs were laid down quite indiscriminately, and the bound
Russia. ROUTE 94. — st. petersburgh to Moscow.
531
from a forest tree to a sapling was not at all unfrequent; so that a jour- ney to a foreigner in those days must have been excruciating. In summer it is usual to strew these log roads with boughs and leaves; in winter the snow fills up everj'^ cavity and brings all to a level. The first stage after leaving the capital is —
Cheiiri Rouki (or the Four Roads), distant 10 j versts. This is a post- royal, and must be paid for accordingly, as stated in the observations on posting.
Jjora, 20j.
Beyond Jjora, thick forest prevails on both sides of the road, and pools of water, collected in every open spot, mark the fenny character of the coun- try ; birch and tall pines predominate almost exclusively. With occasional exception, the whole distance between the first stage and Torjok exhibits little else than a bleak open country or thick forest ; a journey through these forests is like a sea voyage, one spot resembling another so much, that the traveller seems always to remain in the same place.
Sahlina, 11 4.
Tosna, 12.
Riahova, ]8.
Pomerania, 14 1.
Chudova, 26. The character of the landscape begins to change here, and a low range of hills extending to the Ilmen Lake varies the scene.
Spaslaia Polist, 23. The children at this and other post stations in the neighbourhood bring out quantities of wood strawberries for sale ; on a hot and dusty day, which it is certain to be in summer^ this forest fruit is very re- freshing. The post house and traiteur at this station is unusually good.
Podheresa, 24. The name of this place implies " under a birch wood."
Novgorod, 21 |. This is the chief town of the government of Novgorod, and, though its name simply translated is New Town, it was once the capital of Russia. It is situated on the Vol-
chova. " Next unto Moscow," says an old traveller, " the city of Novogo- rod is the chiefest in Russia ; for, al- though it be in majestie inferior to it, yet in greatness it goeth beyond it. It is the chiefest and greatest mart town of all Muscovy : and albeit though the Emperor's seat is not there, but at Mos- cow, yet the commodiousness of the river, falling into that gulf which is called the Sinus Finnicus, whereby it is well frequented by merchants, makes it more famous than Moscow itself." There was an ancient saying of " Who can resist the gods and Novgorod the Great T' and "Quis contra Deos — et magnam Novgorodiam." Three cen- turies ago the city covered an area of sixty-three versts in circumference, and contained a population of more than 400,000 inhabitants. The first Rus- sian money was coined here in the reign of Basil II., and about the year 1420 ; the commerce of the city with the Hanse Towns led to this.
Few of the ruined cities of the old world, unless it be some of those in India, for instance that of Gour, pre- sent so striking an appearance of fallen greatness as the once mighty Novgorod ; its population, already greatly reduced, is rapidly dwindling away by continued emigration towards and to the capital, and the number of its present inhabitants does not exceed 7000. Some parts of the town are well built, but the larger portion has fallen into decay, and its moulder- ing walls, ruined churches, and grass- grown streets render it a scene of com- plete desolation. It still possesses, however, some monasteries, whose domes and minarets will strike the traveller's eye; the steeples on them bear the cross unaccompanied by the crescent, this proud token showing that the Tartars, in all their inva- sions, never conquered the city ; in the reconquered towns the steeples all exhibit the crescent surmounted by the cross. There are a few relics of by-
532
ROUTE 94. — ST. PETERSBURGH TO MOSCOW. Sect. Y.
gone days here : the old Kremlin and the brass gates of the church are cu- rious, the ruined battlements still cover an immense space of ground, and en- able the stranger to form some idea of the original extent and grandeur of this ancient capital. The cathedral church of the Kremlin contains the tomb of Feodor. There is a handsome bridge of modern date in the centre of the town, the iron railing of which is ornamented with a profusion of gilded eagles and warlike trophies.
Shortly after leaving Novgorod, the Volkof, a considerable stream, which flows from the Ilmen to the Ladoga Lake, is passed ; the Volkof is navi- gable for the barges of the country throughout its entire course. The Ilmen Lake is just visible from the road, but there is nothing picturesque in its ap- pearance ; the surface seems stagnant, with low banks, occasionally relieved by a vessel, whose primitive shape is still the same, in all probability, as these craft were in the days of Peter the Great. The road near this runs for some miles through one of the mili- tary colonies, which will be an inte- resting object to the military man, and, if he has an introduction to one of the officers, he will do well • to stop for a few hours and make himself acquainted with an establishment which forms so important a feature in the military po- lity of Russia. A long line of cottages, the habitations of these soldier hus- bandmen, is seen parallel to the road. In the centre is a semicircular space, containing the church and the officers' houses.
Bronitzi, 25j. Here the Mtsa is crossed — the river, in spite of its slug- gishness, has a fine appearance, owing to its great width. The right bank rises to a height of 150 feet above the water, and this elevation continues over an extensive tract of country.
Saitsova, 26.
Moshni, 15.
We have remarked elsewhere that
in Russian travelling the great point is, to get over the ground with the greatest possible speed, for nothing can be more dreary or monotonous than the scenery of that country. This observation ap- plies as much to Nature, as developed on the Moscow read, as on any other in the kingdom.
Krestsi, 12|. a small town. The oak makes its appearance here, mixed with birch and ash.
Rakino, 1 9. From hence to Zima- goria or Valdai, the next stage but one, the country is relieved by gentle undu- lations from perfect flatness. These undulations are called the mountains of Valdai, and the traveller, unless he is going to geologize in the Ural, had better take a good look at them, for these Valdai hills are the highest ground in European Russia, and the Russians, very naturally, are eloquent in the description they give of their beauties ; the lower orders, too, seem to have a very elevated notion of their height, and, at some of the acclivities, preparations are made as if for the as- cent of some Alpine pass : extra horses, greasing of wheels, a careful examina- tion of all the means and appliances necessary to the remedying any acci- dent, and, lastly, a selection of the choicest blessings is resorted to ; the drag, however, is seldom put on, and, by dint of hard flogging, the rapid de- scent of one hill generally effects the ascent of the next. At one of these slopes our near post-horse fell, and, as the impetus the carriage had gained prevented all idea of a pull up, the wretched animal was dragged to the bottom of the hill before we could re- lease him, and by that time both skin and hair had disappeared, and he was left on the road-side till the postilion should return.
The next stage is
Yajillitzi, 15|. The finest straw* berries on the road were obtained here.
Valdai, or Zimagoria, 20. A small town, on the edge of a handsome lake.
Russia. ROUTE 94. — st. petersburgh to Moscow.
533
in which is an island containing a mo- nastery, and around this is some pretty broken ground covered with wood. The fish from this lake are delicious, and remarkably well dressed by the mistress at the post station ; they seem to be a species of trout, without the spots, and about herring size. Had the late Lord S. been aware of their existence, he certainly would have vi- sited Valdai ; they are best fried with bread-crumbs. This town is in the heart of the hills, and about 1220 feet above the level of the sea.
Though insignificant as regards eleva- tion, the hills of Valdai present many po- sitions of great military strength, and it was here that the Russians formed their intrenched camp after the issues of the dreadful Borodino had convinced them that they v/ere scarcely able to cope with the "child of destiny" in, the open field of battle ; for, though the Russian army showed, on all occasions, a most determined front, and was in a high state of discipline, the tactics of the superior officers were not equal to those of the French. Gathering around him the fragments of his retreating army, Alexander here waited patiently until the icy hand of winter should pa- ralyze the hitherto victorious legions of his adversary, and sent forth, in the mean time, those hardy and untiring Cossacks to annoy and harass them by their unexpected and merciless at- tacks. The strength of the works on the hills of Valdai was never put to the test ; none of the invaders pene- trated in that direction save those whose fate it was to tread again as captives the fields over which they had before marched in all that wonderful excitement engendered by the presence of that extraordinary being it was their pride and curse to serve. Valdai is said to bear the palm from all Russian cities, Moscow excepted, for the noise of its bells and the beauty of its wo- men. By the latter the traveller will be beset on alighting, and he will
scarcely reach the post house until he has first purchased some of their bis- cuits. These are made in the shape of large rings, and a purchase of five- pennyworth of them will make the damsels very happy and the purchaser a liberal man in their eyes. Erman states that " the antiquity in Russia of the custom of giving bread particular shapes and names is proved by Her- berstein's narrative ; for he tells us that, at the Court of the Tzar at Mos- cow, there were distributed among the people cakes shaped like a yoke, in order to remind those who ate them of their servility ; these cakes are called lambs, probably in reference to the Easter cake, which is called the Paschal lamb ; and, when a purchase is effected, it is not unusual for the buyer to kiss the vendor." The beauty of the la- dies of Valdai is, however, not to be compared with that of England's daughters of the same class; they cer- tainly, however, deserve to be men- tioned as superior in personal attraction to the generality of their sex in Russia. The dress of the Valdai peasant is also somewhat neater than that of their countrywomen at St. Petersburgh. Here they all wear a kind of short cloak trimmed, and in some instances lined with fur, and reaching a little below the waist ; this is called a " schooha" the name given to all cloaks and coats lined with fur ; under this is a boddice of red cotton, fitting quite tight round the neck, and fastened with a band almost close under the arms, while another similar band, confining the loose folds of their garments below, gives them the appearance of having two waists. This loose gown is called a Saraphdn, and is the national female dress of the Russian peasantry ; red is the colour generally preferred, with a row of large red or yellow buttons down the front : the hair is plaited one into or two long tails, which hang as low as the second waist and tempt the traveller's finger to pull them.
534
EOUTE 94. — ST. PETEESBUKGH TO MOSCOW. Sect. V.
The cause of this apparent anomaly of figure is a broad strap passed very tight over each shoulder and fastened behind, to which the said boddice exactly cor- responds, and thus the whole fulness of the figure, in some cases by no means trifling, is forced down into this middle region, between the natural and artificial contractions. When speaking of waists, let it not be under- stood as designating anything aerial or sylph-like, none of those forms which the " fancy sighs but only to have dreamed," but a regular thick stimipy figure, about five feet and an inch high, with a waist bearing a fearfully large proportion in its dimensions. Wander not to this cold clime, ye who traverse land and sea in search of female models of the " human form divine;" be as- sured that this is not the land where " beauty hath long been matchless deemed;" this place would infallibly terminate at once your hopes and your pilgrimage. If this be the chosen seat of Russia's fairest daughters (and in our further wanderings we never saw any Russian women Avho could boast superior charms), whatever favours her sons may have received at the hands of Mars, the softer sex have little cause to be grateful to Venus. We have re- marked that the bands which confine their garments give the Russian pea- sants the unfortunate appearance of having two waists; a fellow tourist ob- serves that their waists are above their bosoms, but where the rest of their bodies were he could not tell, as the gown hangs perpendicularly down from this unaccountable waist to the heels. Some of the largest rivers in Russia take their rise in the Valdai hills ; amongst these are the Dwina, the Volga, and the Volkofl"; the Volga and the Neva are united by the canal of Vishni Volotchok. Valdai is famed throughout Russia for the brass bells made there, which are fastened to the pole of the post-cart or carriage ; those which have silver mixed with the
former metal have a very agreeable tone. This is not a special branch of industry ; but every third person who can afford to build a furnace and work- shop behind his house casts bells after his own fashion. A love for bells is a national peculiarity in Russia.
Yedrovo, 20.
Makarovo, IGj.
Katilovo, 16 5. On the roadside, near this place, may be seen the boun- dary stones which separate the govern- ments of Novgorod and Tver.
Bachmari, 16.
Vishni Volotchok, 13^. A small town. Here the great canal commences which unites the Volga with a series of rivers and lakes leading to the Ladoga and Neva, whereby the Caspian Sea is joined to the Baltic. A vast number of large flat-bottomed barges, peculiar to Russia, may be seen lying here ; these are sometimes a hundred yards long, built of long planks very loosely put together. Such boats serve only for one voyage, and, when they arrive at their destination, are broken up for fire-wood, timber being so plentiful in the interior that the trajet home would be much more expensive than the first cost of the vessel. In this way large supplies of timber for ship-building are floated from the forests of Kazan to the Baltic. The barges on the lakes are propelled by a large sail and a bank of oars of most primitive con- struction, while one huge fir-tree, scooped into the shape of an enormous oar, forms the rudder of one of these lively-looking crafts : on the canals and rivers they are dragged by horses, and so slow is the progress made, that they take a whole summer to come from the Caspian to St. Petersburgh, and sometimes the frost stops them before they reach " the haven where they would be," when their captain and his crew have the misery of bi- vouacking during the winter in some frozen swamp. The appearance of these floating habitations is at times very
Hussia.
ROUTE 94. ST. PETERSBURGH TO MOSCOW.
535
grotesque, particularly those employed in carrying hay to towns in the in- terior ; these resemble a large rick moving along, and, when seen at a lower elevation than the surface of the river, might fairly be taken for the celebrated flying haystack so frequently alluded to by young sportsmen. No boat drawing more than two feet and a half of water can be certain of ascend- ing the Volga in summer.
Kolokolenka, 17.
Vidropush, 13g-.
Budova, 12|.
ToRJOK, 22j. A large town, famous for its chicken cutlets, and embroidery on leather of silk, and gold and silver thread. The chief articles are reticules, slippers, belts, and caps of various colours ; they may be had much cheaper at St. Petersburgh; the leather of which they ought to be made is called Saffian, but many of them are nothing but sheep-skin. The Torjok slippers can now scarcely be denominated a curio- sity, for they may be seen in most of the fashionable shoe-shops in London, and can only be attractive to the traveller who is so unfortunate as to have no sister at home to work him a pair. There is a good shop at the post house for the sale of these embroi- dered goods ; the shoes embroidered in different-coloured leather and silk are about one shilling and eightpence a pair ; those worked in gold and silver thread become shabby much sooner, and not unfrequently tarnish from ex- posure to the air, and there is far more to catch and dazzle the ej^e in these pretty trifles than to be of any actual use. The Russians learned this art from the Tartars, whom they soon sur- passed, and the name of " Kazan boots," now usually given to the boots and shoes made in Torjok, points to a Tartar origin ; for Kazan was originally the land of the Tartars ; the learned men of Western Europe, too, often give, and erroneously, that name to tribes who had no connection with Kazan. The leather used in the manufacture here
is brought from St. Petersburgh. Torjok is the furthest point reached by any portion of the French armies in 1812 : its streets are wide, the houses principally built of wood, but the pub- lic edifices are of stone.
3Iiro)iescM, 15|.
Miednoi, 1&\. Or Copper Yillage, so called from the copper roof of its church.
KaliJcnia, 14|.
Tver, 12. Pine forests, interspersed with plains stretching away to the ho- rizon, scanty vegetation, and an occa- sional village of log huts, will usher the traveller into the government town of this name, on the banks of the mighty Volga, here crossed by a long wooden bridge of boats. This noble river, a good deal wider here than the Thames at London Bridge, and the longest in Europe, is navigable almost from its source to its embouchure, a distance of 3000 miles ; in its course it divides a great portion of Europe and Asia, bathing the walls of Astrakhan, until at length it discharges its waters into the Caspian. As we have before remarked, the Volga is now navigated by steam-boats, which ply between Tver and that sea.
Tver has 20,000 inhabitants and some commerce, in consequence of its position on the Volga ; but the appear- ance of the streets does not denote this, for they look desolate and without in- habitants ; churches there are, as in most Russian towns, with towers open at the side so as to exhibit their numerous and massive bells, the noise of which the Russians are immoderately fond.
Emmaus, 15j.
Horodnia, 13^. Post house good.
Zavidovo, 2d^.
Klin, 23. A small town. Post house good ; situated on the river Ses- trya.
Podsolnetchnaia Hora, 21. Post house good.
Dourotino, VI \.
Tzchernaia Griaz, 12|. Meaning literally black mud. Post house good.
536
EOUTE 94. ST. PETERSBURGH TO MOSCOW. Sect. V.
Himki, 14.
On leaving Himki the traveller, after three days and nights of incessant locomotion, will be on the alert for the first sight of the ancient capital of Russia ; every little undulation in the ground will be a point of hope, and in due time the park and palace of Pe- terskoi, on the left of the road, will be the signal that he is drawing near to this remarkable city : shortly after, a forest of gilded and painted domes will appear on the horizon. Finally, the fishing-rod is gained, the passports are examined at the barrier, and, the postilion crossing himself three times, the traveller will have entered Moscow, and completed his long journey of 667 versts, or 452 English miles. Near the police station is the gateway that adorns the northern entrance to the city. The appearance of this is pleas- ing, and the design simple and well executed ; it consists of three arches, a centre one over the carriage road of most ample dimensions, and two side arches of smaller proportions over the footway on either side. The body of the structure has no other ornament than a few bas-reliefs of imperial eagles and warlike trophies of various kinds ; while on the summit is placed a colos- sal figure of Victory, driving her car, with eight plunging and prancing steeds — an equipage certainly beyond any mortal's control. This is an erec- tion of quite a recent date, built in close resemblance to the triumphal arch at the western or Riga Gate of St. Petersburgh. The suburbs gained, the traveller will not fail to be enlivened by the cheerful contrast between the silent road he has come and the crowded thoroughfare of peasants, merchants, and Jews, in this part of the city. The first object likely to attract attention is a massive octago- nal tower dedicated to Soukhareff, who, during the dreadful revolt of the Strelitzes instigated by Sophia, sister of Peter the Great, remained faithful to the two young Tzars. On the way
to his hotel, the traveller will pass along Garden Street, not inappro- priately named, for surrounding the houses are great varieties of shrubs, fruit-trees and parterres and balco- nies loaded with flowers, a refreshing- sight to one whose very eyes feel parched and stiffened by staring at 450 miles of nothing for the last three days.
Moscow, — For information relating to the boarding houses and hotels of Moscow, see page 399.
The history of the Russian provinces through which the traveller has passed on his way to Moscow has reference to that of this ancient capital ; for, though the government of Novgorod and Tver were at one period indepen- dent, each in its turn, whether republic or principality, was subjugated by this their more powerful neighbour, and in the fourteenth century Moscow became the capital of Muscovy ; Kief, and afterwards Vladimir, having till then enjoyed that distinction. The fear- ful calamities with which Moscow was visited in the early part of its his- tory were of the same character as those which have befallen almost any other capital, though fiir more intense. In the early part of the reign of Basil II., it was taken and ravished by the Eastern destroyer, Tamerlane ; and, on a subsequent occasion, it fell into the hands of the Tartars, who sacked it, and put many of the in- habitants to the sword. In 1536 the town was nearly consumed by fire, and 2000 of the inhabitants perished in the flames; and in 1571 the Tartars fired the suburbs, and, a furious wind driving the flames into the city, a con- siderable portion of it was reduced to ashes, and not less than 100,000 per- sons perished in the flames or by the less lingering death of the sword. In 1611 a great portion of the city was again destroyed by fire, when the Poles had taken possession of it, under the pretence of defending the inhabitants from the adherents of Andrew Nagui,
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536
EOUTE 94. ST. PETERSBURGH TO MOSCOW. Sect. V.
Himki, 14.
On leaving Himki the traveller, after three days and nights of incessant locomotion, will be on the alert for the first sight of the ancient capital of Russia ; every little undulation in the ground will be a point of hope, and in due time the park and palace of Pe- terskoi, on the left of the road, will be the signal that he is drawing near to this remarkable city : shortly after, a forest of gilded and painted domes will appear on the horizon. Finally, the fishing-rod is gained, the passports are examined at the barrier, and, the postilion crossing himself three times, the traveller will have entered Moscow, and completed his long journey of 667 versts, or 452 English miles. Near the police station is the gateway that adorns the northern entrance to the city. The appearance of this is pleas- ing, and the design simple and well executed ; it consists of three arches, a centre one over the carriage road of most ample dimensions, and two side arches of smaller proportions over the footway on either side. The body of the structure has no other ornament than a few bas-reliefs of imperial eagles and warlike trophies of various kinds ; while on the summit is placed a colos- sal figure of Victor}^, driving her car, with eight plunging and prancing steeds — an equipage certainly beyond any mortal's control. This is an erec- tion of quite a recent date, built in close resemblance to the triumphal arch at the western or Riga Gate of St. Petersburgh. The suburbs gained, the traveller Avill not fail to be enlivened by the cheerful contrast between the silent road he has come and the crowded thoroughfare of peasants, merchants, and Jews, in this part of the city. The first object likely to attract attention is a massive octago- nal tower dedicated to SoukharefF, who, during the dreadful revolt of the Strelitzes instigated by Sophia, sister of Peter the Great, remained faithful to the two young Tzars. On the way
to his hotel, the traveller will pass along Garden Street, not inappro- priately named, for surrounding the houses are great varieties of shrubs, fruit-trees and parterres and balco- nies loaded with flowers, a refreshing sight to one whose very eyes feel parched and stiffened by staring at 450 miles of nothing for the last three days.
Moscow. — For information relating to the boarding houses and hotels of Moscow, see page 399.
The history of the Russian provinces through which the traveller has passed on his way to Moscow has reference to that of this ancient capital ; for, though the government of Novgorod and Tver were at one period indepen- dent, each in its turn, whether republic or principality, was subjugated by this their more powerful neighbour, and in the fourteenth century Moscow became the capital of Muscovy ; Kief, and afterwards Vladimir, having till then enjoyed that distinction. The fear- ful calamities with which Moscow was visited in the early part of its his- tory were of the same character as those which have befallen almost any other capital, though far more intense. In the early part of the reign of Basil II., it was taken and ravished by the Eastern destroyer, Tamerlane ; and, on a subsequent occasion, it fell into the hands of the Tartars, who sacked it, and put many of the in- habitants to the svvord. In 1536 the town was nearly consumed by fire, and 2000 of the inhabitants perished in the flames; and in 1571 the Tartars fired the suburbs, and, a furious wind driving the flames into the city, a con- siderable portion of it was reduced to ashes, and not less than 100,000 per- sons perished in the flames or by the less lingering death of the sword. In 1611 a great portion of the city was again destroyed by fire, when the Poles had taken possession of it, under the pretence of defending the inhabitants from the adherents of Andrew Nagui,
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Russia.
ROUTE 94. MOSCOW.
537
a pretender to the crown. And, lastly, in 1812, the indomitable population of Moscow, seeing that they were for the moment unable' to withstand the invading hordes of the Emperor of the modern Huns, gave up their ancient, holy, and beautiful city to this devour- ing element — the grandest sacrifice ever made to national feeling. The city was the idol of every Russian's heart, her shrines were to him the holiest in the empire — hallowed by seven centuries of historical associations, it was for Rus- sia's safety given up to destruction with ready and cheerful submission, and this sacrifice was tlie means of enabling her to take that deep and just revenge on the banks of the Beresina which led to the annihilation of her foe, and allowed the rest of Europe to rise, and, with her, pursue him to his utter dis- comfiture and ruin.
But we have to describe the city as it is, the hospitals, churches, and gos- tinnoi dvors, rather than revert to Russian history. The assertion some- times made, that no city is so irregu- larly built as Moscow, is in some re- spects true ; none of the streets are straight; houses large and small, public buildings, churches, and other edifices are mingled confusedly together, but it gains by this the advantage of being more picturesque. The streets undu- late continually, and thus offer from time to time points of view whence the eye is able to range over the vast ocean of house-tops, trees, and gilded and coloured domes. But the archi- tecture of Moscow, since the conflagra- tion of 1812, is not quite so bizarre as, according to the accounts of travellers, it was before that event; nevertheless it is still singular enough. In 1813 the point chiefly in view was to build, and build quickly, rather than to carry any cer- tain plan into execution; the houses were replaced with nearly the same irregularity with respect to each other, and the streets became as crooked and tortuous as before. The whole gained, therefore, little in regularity from the
fire, but each individual house was built in much better taste, gardens be- came more frequent, the majority of roofs were made of iron, painted green, a lavish use was made of pillars, and even those who could not be profuse erected more elegant cottages. Hence Moscow has all the charms of a new city, with the pleasing negligence and picturesque irregularity of an old one. In the streets, we come now to a large magnificent palace, with all the pomp of Corinthian pillars, wrought-iron trellis- work, and magnificent approaches and gateways; and now to a simple white- washed house, the abode of a modest citizen's family. Near them stands a small church, with green cupolas and golden stars. Then comes a row of little yellow wooden houses, that re- mind one of old Moscow; and these are succeeded by one of the new co- lossal erections for some public institu- tion. Sometimes the road winds through a number of little streets, and the traveller might fancy himself in a country town ; suddenly it rises, and he is in a wide "place," from Avhich streets branch off to all quarters of the world, while the eye wanders over the forest of houses of the great capital ; descending again, he conies in the middle of the town to the banks of a river planted thickly with gardens and woods. The exterior wall of the city is upwards of twenty English miles in extent, of a most irregular form, more resembling a trapezium than any other figure; within this are two nearly concentric circular lines of boulevard, the one at a distance of about a mile and a half from the Kremlin, com- pleted on both sides of the Moskva; the internal one with a radius of about a mile, spreading only on the north of the river, and terminating near the stone bridge on the one side, and the foundling hospital on the other. The river enters the barrier of the vast city to which it has given a name about the central point of the western side, and after winding round the Devitchei
138
ROUTE 94. MOSCOW.
Sect. V.
convent like a huge serpent, and from thence flowing beneath the Tartar bat- tlements of the Kremlin, and receiving the scanty stream of the Jaousa, issues again into the vast plain, till it meets the Oka, a tributary of the mighty Volga, which join? the king of the northern rivers at Nijni Novgorod.
On the north of the Moskva, streets and houses, in regular succession, reach to the very barrier; and though a vast proportion of ground is left unoccupied, owing to the enormous width of the streets and boulevards, the earthen rampart may truly be said to gird in the city. But in the other quarters, and particularly to the south, the city can hardly be said to extend further than the outward boulevard. Beyond this there are vast convents, the Devitchei, Donskoi, and the Semi- nofskoi; huge hospitals, the Gralitzin, the St. Paul, and the Cheremetietf, the largest of all; the Eace Course, and the beautiful gardens of the Prin- cess Galitzin along the banks of the Moskva ; fields, and lakes, and marshes; but all these are within the outer in- closure of the outer wall. This will account for its seemingly scanty popu- lation of 330,000 souls.
The centre of this vast collection of buildings is the Kremlin, which, with its beautiful gardens, forms nearly a triangle of somewhat more than an English mile in circumference. The original founder of the city settled, without doubt, on the Kremlin hill, which naturally remained the nucleus of the city at a later period. Adjoin- ing this to the east comes the Kitai Gorod (Chinese city), which still pre- serves its ancient fence of towers and buttresses. Encircling these two divi- sions, and itself bounded by the river and inner boulevard, lies the Beloi Gorod (white city). The space in- closed between the two circles to the north of the Moskva, and between the river and the outward boulevard on the south, is called the Zmelnoi Gorod. Beyond the boulevards are the suburbs. ,
Previous to the conflagration of 1812, each of the four quarters was surrounded by a wall and bastions : but all perished in that mighty blaze except the embattled inclosure of the Kitai Gorod, which escaped almost un- scathed; and the pious veneration of the worshippers of St. Nicholas soon restored the broken walls and crumb- ling turrets of the Kremlin, "black with the miner's blast," to their pre- sent perfect state. The defences of the remaining districts have wisely been dispensed with, and a style some- what resembling that of its previous architecture was observed in repairing the destruction caused by the fire. But this remark does not apply to the interior of the Kremlin, where the Arsenal and the new Imperial Palace are in modern taste, and quite out of character with the ancient buildings within the walls. Before entering the Kremlin, it will be well to -view it from one or two points on the outside, and the most favourable spot for this purpose, on the south side, is the bridge of Moskva Rekoi ; from the river that bathes its base, the hill of the Kremlin rises, picturesquely adorned with turf and shrubs. The buildings appear set in a rich frame of water, verdant foli- age and snowy wall, the majestic column of Ivan Veliki rearing itself high above all, like the axis round which the whole moves. The colours are everywhere most lively — red, white, green, gold, and silver. Amidst the confusion of the numerous small antique edifices, the Bolshoi Dvoretz (the large palace built b}"" Alexander) has an imposing aspect. The churches and palaces stand on the plateau of tlie Kremlin as on a mighty salver ; the little red and gold church of the Tzars, coquetting near the border like some pretty little maiden, and the paler coloured cupolas of the Michaelis and Uspenski churches representing the broad corpulence of a merchant's wife. The Maloi Dvoretz (little palace), and the convent of the Miracle, draw
Hussia.
.ROUTE 94. — MOSCOW.
539
modestly back, as beseems hermits and little people. All these buildings stand on the summit of the Kremlin, like its crown, themselves again crowned with a multitude of cupolas, of which every church has at least five, and one has sixteen, glittering in gold and silver. The appearance of the whole is most picturesque and interesting, and it is certainly one of the most striking city views in Europe.
The northern side of the Kremlin is the least attractive; a plain high wall with two gates separates it from the Krasnoi Ploschad (the red place). The most adorned is the north-west side. Here, in former times, was the Swan Lake. It is now drained, and its bed forms the site of the Alexander Garden, which stretches from the Moskva to the giant wall of the Kremlin.
Though assisted in his wanderings by a good lacquey-de-place, the tra- veller will not be able to see the sights of Moscow in less than a week, indeed a fortnight may be passed very plea- santly here. Judging from our own experience, that period is not too long to see in comfort everything there is to be seen ; for though furnished with tickets and orders from the Governor, Prince Galitzin, which acted on all oc- casions like the sesame of Ali Baba, and taken at a capital pace by a good pair of horses, we were a week seeing the sights within the walls. After a general survey of the city, in a droshky or caleche, the traveller's first object will naturally be the Kremlin, and traversing the wide square in front of the theatre, the white walls of the Kitai Gorod, with their massive but- tresses and odd-shaped battlements, will give the stranger the first indica- tion that he is in front of the ancient Tartar city.
What the Acropolis was to Athens and the Capitol to Eome, the Kremlin is to Moscow. It is surrounded hj a strong and lofty wall, embattled with many towers and turrets, and several
gates. The most important of these is beyond doubt, the " Spass Vorota" (the gate of the Redeemer). It is the joorta sacra and porta triumphalis of Moscow. Through it entered the tri- umphant warriors of Ivan Vassilievitch, after the conquest of Kazan and Astra- khan, and those of Michselis and Alexis, after the victories obtained in the Ukraine. Over this gate is a picture of the Saviour, under a glass, and before it hangs a large ill-formed lamp, in a massive metal frame ; this is suspended by a heavy chain, and under it, to wind it up, stands a complicated old machine, that jarred and rattled here in the time of the Tzar Michael. A man, whose sole business it is to wind it up, has a table beside him with wax tapers, which he sells to be lighted be- fore the picture. This shrine is an object 'of the greatest reverence with the Rus- sians, although few know what it re- presents, it hangs so high and the colours are so faded.
This gate forms a passage through the tower, of about twenty paces long, and every one, be he what he may, Mo- hammedan, Heathen, or Christian, must take off his hat, and keep it off till he has passed through to the other side. It is a singular sight, to watch the carriages- and-four, coming along at full speed, and slackening their pace as they approach the sacred gate, while lord and lacquey cross themselves reverently, and drive through hat in hand. Anyone passing through, and forgetting to uncover, is immediately reminded of the fact, nor would it be safe to neglect the hint ; we once forgot the salute, and were reminded of it merely by a gently murmured warning, *' Shlapa, shlapa batiushka" (The hat, the hat, father).
This gate obtained its sacred repu- tation in the course of centuries, through many miracles wrought by its means. Often, as the people relate, the Tartars have been driven back from it ; miraculous clouds have veiled the defenders of the Kremlin, who sought its shelter, while the pursuing
540
KOUTE 94. MOSCOW.
Sect. V.
Tartars were unable to find the en- trance. Even the presence of the tem- pi e-plnndering Grauls, according to the Russians, only served to increase the renown of this gate. They thought the frame of the picture was of gold, and en- deavoured to remove it. But every ladder they planted broke in the middle. This enraged the French, who then brought a cannon to batter down door and pic- ture together; but, do what they would, the dry powder was possessed by the devil of water, who was too much for the devil of fire, and would not ex- plode. At last they made a great fire with coals over the touch-hole. The powder was now subdued, but it ex- ploded the wrong way, blowing the cannon into a thousand pieces, and some of the French artillerymen into the bargain, while gate and picture remained unharmed. The spoilers, now over-mastered by dread, withdrew, ac- knowledging the miraculous power. Such was the story we heard from the taper-seller at the gate. The ori- gin of the custom of uncapping at the Holy Gate is unknown; and, though several traditions are extant, the au- thenticity of any fact is lost in the darkness of ages ; but the feelings of devotion are still fresh and powerful, and it is to be doubted whether any bribe would be sufficient to induce a Russian to pass this archway either by day or night without uncovering his head. The Emperor himself bares his imperial brow as he approaches the Spaskoi ; the officer and soldier in all the pomp and circumstance of war do the same ; and thus tradition says it has been since the wooden walls of the first Kremlin were raised. And we would strongly recommend the tra- veller to do at Moscow as they at Moscow do, or he will either be bon- netted by the sentry or some passing mujik, and thus sacrifice his best Andre where it cannot be replaced, or per- haps have the pleasure of being shown the interior of a Russian guard house instead of the Kremlin.
The greatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter by the Saviour's Gate, a proof that in a religious point of view the Russians look upon this animal as unclean.
The Nicholas Gate, although not so privileged as the Spass Vorota, has also a wonder-working picture, that of St. Nicholas, over it. It was near the entrance of this gate that Napoleon's powder waggons exploded and destroyed a large part of the ar- senal and other buildings. The gate escaped with a rent, which split the tovver in the middle as far as the frame of the picture, which stopped its far- ther progress. Not even the glass of the picture, or that of the lamp sus- pended before it, was injured. So says the inscription on the gate, and the remarkable rent is eternalized by a stone differing from the rest in colour.
All the gates of the Kremlin are connected by a strong and lofty wall, which incloses it in the form of a vast triangle with many towers. Within this wall are contained all the most interesting and historically important buildings of Moscow ; the holiest churches with the tombs of the ancient Tzars, patriarchs, and metropolitans ; the remains of the ancient palace of the Tzars, the new one of the present Em- peror, the arsenal, senate house, &c., and architectural memorials of every period of Russian history — for every Russian monarch has held it his duty to adorn the Kremlin with some monu- ment.
The two most important remains of the old palace of the Tzars are the Te- rema and the Granovitaya Palata, the former containing the Gymnaceum, the latter the coronation hall of the Tzars; the main body of the palace was so much injured by the French, that no restoration was possible. In its place a new palace was erected, called the Bolshoi Dvoretz (great pa- lace), or, from its builder, the Alex- anderski Dvoretz. The ruins of both the others are by the side of it, and
Russia.
ROUTE 94=. THE GEAXOYITAYA PALATA.
541
connected with it by stairs and galle- ries. They were, as our guide told us, " so desolated by the French, that door and window stood open to wind and tempest;" the coronation hall was re- stored long ago, and the Emperor Ni- cholas has repaired the Terema.
THE TEREMA.
Terema, or terem, is the name given in every Russian peasant's house to the upper part of the building, round which, sheltered by the projecting roof, a bal- cony runs, and where the daughters and children of the house are lodged; it may be easily imagined that the Terema plays no insignificant part in the love songs of the people ; this part of the old palace of the Tzars is called pre-eminently the Terema. This build- ing consists of four stories, of which the lowest is the largest, gradually diminish- ing, till the upper floor is so small as only to contain one room. On the space thus left by the retreat of the upper story from the ceiling of the under, a balcony is formed, with steps both within and without, ascending from one terrace to the other. In the lowest floor, the throne and audience chambers of the old Tzars are shown ; the upper one was the dwelling of the^ Tzarovnas (princesses) and the children. All these rooms have been repaired in the old Russian taste. The stoves are very peculiar in form, and all the plates of which they are composed ornamented with paintings. The walls are covered with decorations, that remind one ol the gorgeous glories of the Alhambr.T. They display an extraordinary confu- sion of foliage, vine trellises, singularly imagined flowers, woven in arabesques, and painted with the gayest colours. On the painted branches are perched birds, yellow, blue, gold, and silver ; squirrels, mice, and other small ani- mals ; on every bough hangs a load of costly fruit, and all sorts of knots and figures in gold are entwined among them. Here and there are portraits of the Tzars, armorial bearings, houses in
miniature, and what not. Originals for these fancies were found in old churches, but of course the work of the modern artist is much more ele- gant, richer, and better executed. From one of the terraces of the Terema there is an entrance into the little church of the Redeemer, which was also plun- dered by the French, but re-endowed most magnificently with gold and silver vessels, by the Emperors Alexander and Nicholas. This is ornamented by twelve gilded cupolas, the size of chimneys, the sight of which, no doubt, in the days of childhood, delighted many a Tzar.
It was on the terrace roof of the Terema, from whence there is a splen- did view of the city and its environs, that Napoleon placed himself on the first day of his very short stay at Moscow, to behold the beauties of his selfish conquest.
THE Gr.ANOVITAYA PALATA.
Connected also with the Bolshoi Dvoretz is this singular building of quadrangular or cubical form. On the second story is the coronation hall of the Tzars; a low and vaulted apart- ment, the arches uniting in the centre, where they rest upon a thick square column. The crimson velvet hangings used at the present Emperor's corona- tion still ornament the walls; they are embroidered in gold, with eagles bear- ing thunderbolts, and with the initials of the Emperor: a golden candelabrum is worked betv/een each of these. The throne, under a velvet canopy, is oppo- site the entrance, and over the win- dows are the armorial bearings of the different governments of Russia. The pillar in the centre is divided by cir- cular shelves, on which the regalia are displayed on the day of the coronation. Here the Emperor -sits enthroned, after the ceremony in the cathedral, adorned for the first time with all the imperial insignia, and dines amidst his nobles. After that royal feast the room is un- trodden, save by the curious stranger, until death calls the reigning Tzar to
B B
642 ROUTE 94. — THE BOLSHOI AND MALOI DVORETZ. Sect. V.
the sepulchre of his fathers, and the gorgeous banquet is spread anew for his successor. The arrangement of the room is by no means convenient, as the Emperor can neither see nor be seen by a large proportion of his guests, owing to the massive column rising immediately before him.
A long low passage the walls of which were richly painted and gilded with bar- barous devices, led to the room of state of the rulers of the olden time. They knew not of seat or throne, save the deep niches cut in the painted walls, and where, unless they far out-topped in stature the degenerate mortals of later times, they must have sat with their royal legs dangling most un- comfortably in mid air, as the niches are between three and four feet from the ground.
THE BOLSHOI DVORETZ, OR LARGE PALACE.
It has been remarked, that on the spot where the main body of the old Tartar palace stood the Emperor Alex- ander erected this palace; it is very lofty compared with its faqade, but the whole effect is good when viewed from the base upwards. The interior is not striking either for its decorations or fur- niture ; nevertheless, the palace, though of such recent erection, is not without interest. The rooms, which have been at various times inhabited by members of the Imperial family, are in exactly the same state as when they left them ; and the servants who show the building announce the history of each room, as the throne room of the Emperor Alexander, the bath room of the Empress Maria Feodorovna; this is somewhat mo- notonous, particularly as the informa- tion is not even relieved by a few per- sonal anecdotes. Almost every room is, however, illustrated by silent me- morials of those who once occupied the apartments; for instance, in the bou- doir of Maria Feodorovna, a box con- taining some "pastilles de Gruimauve" has been preserved as something valu-
able, because it belonged to the Em- press. The sepia drawings in this room breathe a gentle spirit of love and humanity, and make a favour- able impression on the spectator. They are copies of pictures which betray not only a pure taste, but a feeling heart. Amongst them are two " St. Cecilias," after Guido Reni; a "Penitent Mag- dalen," and " Transfiguration," after Raphael ; the " Night" of Corregio ; and others in the same spirit.
In the apartment of the Emperor Alexander is a pocket-handkerchief which he left here before he set out for Taganrog ; there are also some in- struments which indicate what his oc- cupations were — as a rule, quadrant, black-lead pencil, Indian rubber, &c. His bed room is as simple as it can well be ; a bed with a straw mattress, half-a-dozen leather-covered chairs, and a small looking-glass, make up the whole furniture. A fee is not usually taken here.
THE MALOI DVORETZ, OR LITTLE PALACE.
This, the Little Palace, adjoining the Granovitaya Palata, was built by the Emperor Nicholas, and nothing like magnificence has been displayed ; on the contrary, the furniture and general arrangements are, as in the private palace at St. Petersburgh, of the sim- plest kind. This was the Emperor's residence before his elevation to the throne, and, having spent the first years of his married life here, he is much at- tached to it. The musket of a common soldier is shown in one of the rooms, as a favourite piece of furniture, and with it Nicholas used to go through the manual exercise, while giving his little sons their first lessons in the art of war. Some Polish eagles are to be seen here. From the windows of this palace, the Emperor, when residing at Moscow, shows himself to his admiring subjects, who assemble to see him on the parade ground below.
There are some interesting pictures here, by Bernado Belotto de Canaletto,
Russia. ROUTE 94.— THE CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION. 543
representing scenes in Polish history; one is particularly interesting and beau- tifully executed, pourtraying very faith- fully the " Election of Stanislas Au- gustus by the Diet of Warsaw, in 1764." The king is represented as crowned in the open air, on the field of Vola, and round his throne sit the nobility and clergy, the former with their swords drawn. There is also a picture of some merit by a self-taught Russian subal- tern officer, representing " Minim and Pojarski taking the field against the Poles." A monument to these heroes adorns the Krasnoi Ploschad, or Red Place. {See Eist. Notice, ^.i26.) If the Emperor Alexander's bed has surprised the traveller, his astonishment will be increased when he sees that of his suc- cessor, which is in one of these rooms ; the former slept on straw covered with leather, but it was loosely stuffed ; the mattress of the present Emperor, on which he lies without any other bed be- tween, is stuffed so hard and light, that a shutter in the absence of it would, we think, scarcely inconvenience his Im- perial Majesty. The library in the Em- peror's cabinet contains all the works that have been written concerning Mos- cow, in French, Russian, and German. In one of the apartments and under a glass case, are a number of loaves, which have been presented to the Em- peror on his various visits to Moscow. When the sovereign arrives, it is cus- tomary for the Golova, or chief per- son, attended by some of the princi- pal citizens, to wait on him, and pre- sent on a silver salver and in a gold salt-cellar, bread and salt, requesting him to taste the bread of Moscow. The Emperor thanks him, breaks off a piece of the roll, eats it, and then invites the Golova to eat his bread, that is, to partake of a splendid dinner, at which he is presented to the Empress and the Imperial family.
rSPENSKI SABOK THE CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION.
It is - difficult to say how many
churches there are in Moscow, the several accounts differ so widely. Some speak of 1500, others 500, and one writer places their number as low as 260. Some include chapels, public and private, and those in convents in the category, also the winter and summer churches, separately, for there is one for each season, as well as those which are joined together, and this mode of calculation would soon swell their numbers to thousands. There is exaggeration in this, but there are some churches in the old capital which do in fact consist of several joined to- gether, of which each has its own name, and is quite separate from the rest ; in this manner the Church of the Protection of the Holy Virgin might be set down as twelve.
It is sufficient to say, therefore, that the buildings in Moscow, destined for divine service, are countless, but the quintessence and holiest of them all is on the height of the Kremlin. This con- secrated spot, the Sabornoi Ploschad (Cathedral Place), has been surrounded by the Emperor Nicholas with a lofty and magnificent iron grating, and con- tains the Cathedral above mentioned, the Angelskoi Sabor (Church of the Archangel Michael), and our Lady of the Cave. It is hard to say which of these three is the most important, but perhaps the preference belongs to the Uspenski Sabor, as the emperors are crowned in it, and the Patriarch for- merly officiated here.
" The name of a cathedral, leads a Western European to expect great space and lofty arches, in which the voice returns in echo, and the eye loses itself in distance; but these -expecta^-. tions will not be fulfilled in a jR««55ta«; one. According to the national taste, ' a church must be crowded with pic- tures and shrines, and thu'ij in this cathedral, eye and spirit are l)ewUdered with the glitter of gold and the glare of colour. The whole church is gilt within; even the heavy pillars that support the five cupolas are covered B BSf
544
ROUTE 94. — THE STNODALNI DOM.
Sect. V.
with this material from top to bot- tom, and the walls the same ; and on til is golden ground large fresco paint- ings have been executed, the subjects taken from the Bible. The figures are gigantic, and distinguished by asto- nishing strength of grimace ; they are said to have been painted by foreign artists at the command of the Tzar Vassili Ivanovitch, but they are right Russian as well as the church, and the artist must have yielded to the national spirit. There is more gilding than gold in this church, for the French seem to have distinguished the true metal from the false better here than in the cast]e chapel, where they left a quantity of gold, mistaking it for copper.
" The priests contrived, however, to have a pretty little salvage out of the shipwreck of 1 81 2 ; amon^- other things a Mount Sinai of pure ducat gold, a present from Prince Potemkin. On the summit stands a golden Moses, with a golden table of the law ; and within the mountain is a golden coffin to con- tain the host ; it is said to weigh 120,000 ducats. A Bible, the gift of Natalia Narishkin, the mother of Peter the Great, is so large, and the cover so laden with gold and jewels, that it re- quires two strong men to carry it into the church; it is said to weigh 120 lbs. There was, and perhaps is, a gi- gantic deacon of this church, who some- times displays his strength by taking the Avhole burden, like a second St. Christopher, on his own pious and enormous shoulders. The emeralds on the cover are an inch long, and the v/hole binding cost 1,200.000 rubles, a sum for which all the books in Moscow might be handsomely bound. The other remarkable objects in this church is the great chestnut-coloured wooden throne-seat of Vladimir the Great, within a house of brass-woik, which they say is an imitation of the tomb of Christ ; and also a miraculous picture of the Saviour. ' Within this month,' said the priest who showed us the picture, ' a merchant lame in both hands and
feet was brought hither, and, after he had prayed fervently before this pic- ture, he rose up healed, and walked out of the door which he had been carried through on his bed."
Here too is to be seen a nail, said to be of the true cross, a robe of our Sa- viour's, and part of one of the Virgin Mary's. There is likewise a picture of her, which, it is said,was painted by St. Luke, and brought from Constantinople by one of the early Tzars. (See Hist. Notice, p. 423.) The face is dark, almost black, the head encircled with a glory of precious stones, and the hands and body gilded. From the centre of the roof is suspended a crown of massive silver, with forty-eight chandeliers, all in a single piece, and weighing nearly 3000 lbs. The pictures of the saints on the walls are 2300 in number, and besides these there are portraits of the old historians, whose names, to pre- vent confusion, are attached to their resemblance, as Anacharsis, Thucydi- des, Plutarch, &c. The Cathedral of the Assumption was founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Here are the tombs of the Patriarchs of the Greek Church, one of whom, St. Philip, and honoured by a silver monument, dared to say to Ivan " the Terrible," — " We respect 3' ou as an image of the Divinity, but as a man you partake of the dust of the earth." The great gun, how- ever, of the collection is the golden shrine of the Patriarch Nicon, in the sacristy, whose mouldering skeleton is here preserved, together with his wooden spoon. When he held the cro- sier, it was mightier than the sceptre in Russia, for he governed the indolent Prince Alexis Michaelovitch ; but a conspiracy of the nobles drove him from power to the Bielosersk Convent, where he had begun his career as a priest. A fee will be expected here by the cle- rical guide.
STNODALNI DOM, OR THE HOUSE OP THE HOLY SYKOD.
Behind the Cathedral of the Assump-
Russia. ROUTE 94. — cathedral of archangel michael. 545
tion stands the house which formerly belonged to the patriarchs of Moscow, now called the Synodalni Dom because a section of the Holy Synod has its of- fices here: ''it contains the library of the patriarchs, their treasury, and their wardrobe ; and in the church attached to it is preserved the mir, the holy oil that is used in baptizing all the chil- dren in Kussia.
The books are kept in glass presses in the church itself j and in the middle, round the pillar that sustains the vaulted roof, the vessels'used in preparing and preserving the oil are ranged on semi- circular shelves. At the baptism of the child the priest crosses, with a small camel-hair pencil dipped in the oil, the mouth, eyes, ears, hands, and feet; the eyes, that the child may only see good ; the ears, that they may ad- mit only what is good ; the mouth, that he may speak as beseems a Christian ; the hands, that he may do no wrong; the feet, that they may tread in the path of the just.
The holy oil, the onir, which is to effect all this, is of course no common oil. The finest Florence is used, mingled with a number of essences, the quantity and quality of which are strictly defined ; but the soul of the niixture are some drops from the oil- flask of the Magdalen who washed the feet of our Saviour.
Two great silver kettles, the gift of Catherine II., are used in the prepara- tion of the sacred oils ; four weeks elapse before the mass is perfectly mingled, before the due number of prayers have been made, and before, amid pious psalmody, every drop has been refined and signed with the cross. From the kettles the oil is poured into silver jars, thirty in number, the gift of the Emperor Paul, and these are sealed with the seal of the Synod, and placed on stages round the central pillar of the church. The quantity made at once, about three gallons and a half, supplies all Kussia for a year and a half or two years. Every bishop either
comes himself or sends a confidential person to Moscow, to fetch a supply for his diocese, who receives it from the metropolitan. The cost of the whole is about 5000 rubles. Every- thing employed in the operation is silver, as well as the kettles and the jars to keep it in, the sieve for strain- ing, the spoons for stirring," &c., &c.
Among the patriarchs' books there are a number of rare Bibles in different languages, so inestimably precious, that they are always kept under lock and key, and shown to no one. Thus, in time, they will be eaten by the worms without any person being the wiser. The four gospels, transcribed by the daughter of Michael Romanoff, sister of Alexis, are shown here. Every letter is carefully and beautifullypainted. We shall hardly find anywhere such a monument of pious industry of so re- cent a date.
THE ARKHANGELSK! SABOR, CATHE- DRAL OP THE ARCHANGEL MICHAEL.
The Arkhangelski Sabor, also in the Kremlin, although dedicated to the angel of the flaming sword, has such very diminutive windows that all the light of its jev/els, and all the glitter of its gold, are barely sufficient to en- lighten its blackened walls. The shrine that shines the brightest in the night of this church is that of a little boy, in whose name more blood has been shed than in that of any child in the world, and whose memory is now worshipped here.
It is the last false Dmitri, who has long rested here, and enjoyed the ho- mage of all Russia; and, as he now makes no claim to an earthly kingdom, he enjoys his share in the heavenly kingdom uncontested. Of course the Russians do not esteem him the false but the real Dmitri. The fact they adduce in proof of this is exactly what raises in others the greatest doubt. They say that, after the body of the royal child had been in vain sought for in Uglitsh, where he was murdered by
546 ROUTE 94. — THE CHURCH OF THE ANNUNCIATION. Sect. V.
the emissaries of Boris GodunofF, it arose, coffin and all, from the ground, at Grod's command, and presented it- self to the longing people, whereby its genuineness was palpably manifested.
Be this as it may, the mummy of a boy of five or six years of age, mag- nificently clad, is exposed on festivals in an open coffin. Every part is veiled but the forehead, which is kissed by his adorers. Above the coffin is the portrait of the little canonized prince, attached to a pillar and set in a raised frame of the finest gold. Being well concealed, it escaped the French in 1812.
How strong is the affection the Rus- sians still feel for this last offshoot of the old Rurik dynasty was lately testi- fied by a gift made to the young martyr, by the inhabitants of Uglitsh, of a new silver candlestick as tall as an ordinary man, with a profusely de- corated pedestal and a large flat top. On this top is a cavity in the centre for the reception of a thick wax-candle, with a number of smaller cavities around, for candles of different dimen- sions.
A whole body must necessarily take precedence of a few drops of blood. Hence, a few drops of the veritable blood of John the Baptist after he was beheaded are little regarded, although set in gold, with diamond rays like the centre of a star. One would think that the blood of John the Baptist was immeasurably dearer to Christendom than that of this royal child ; but in Russia the Christian religion is every- where overshadowed by the Russian. The pictures of Paul, Peter, and the other apostles are seldom seen, either in the churches or private houses ; whereas, St. Vladimirs, Dmitries, Nicholases, and Gregories are met with at every turn. Even the Saviour and Mary his mother must take a Greek or Russian title before they enjoy meet reverence. The Iberian Boshia Mater, and she of Kazan, are quite other godheads from the suffering Virgin.
The Tzais down to Peter the Great
(since whom the sovereigns have been buried in the fortress of Peter and Paul, at St. Petersburgh) lie in the church of the Archangel Michael. Their portraits, as large as life, are painted in fresco round the walls, each wrapped in a white mantle, by his own tomb, as if watching it. They are all evidently made after one pattern, and that no very choice one. The tombs are nothing better than heaps of brick whitened over. On the walls and cover of the sarcophagi are inscribed the names and paternal names of the Tzars, the years of their birth and death, in the following style : — " In the year of the world 7092, and in the year after Christ 1584, in the month of March, on the 19th day, departed the orthodox and Christ-loving Lord, the Lord Tzar and Grand-Duke Feodor, the son of John, Ruler and General of all the Russians." The tomb of Ivan the Terrible and his ill-fated son are here. A portion of the screen in this church is one sheet of pure gold. At the en- trance of this and the other churches in the Kremlin the traveller will be beset by beggars as importunate as those of Abbeville or any village on the Paris road. Close to this cathe- dral is an odd-looking church which is constantly thronged with devotees, it is said to be the most ancient in Moscow. The walls are of immense strength.
CHURCH OP THE ANNUNCIATION.
The floor of this church is paved with stones of all sizes and shapes, jasper, agate, and cornelian. Here is the royal seat of the Tzars, made of wood, covered with silver gilt, and shaped like a sugar basin with a cover to match. This church is rich in relics of all the saints in the calendar, not a few in number ; but the most remark- able object is a fresco painting on the wall, representing an assembly of good and evil spirits, the latter headed by the evil one himself, breathing flame and smoke, and horned, hoofed, and tailed. " The French," says Kohl,
Russia,
ROUTE 94. — THE TREASURY.
54T
"left a large ham in pickle on the Kremlin. The priests repeated with deep emotion the story of the French stabbing their horses in this church, and people from the provinces never hear this without shuddering, and swearing eternal hatred to that nation."
THE TREASURY.
In addition to the churches and palaces already enuiperated, there is in the Kremlin an immense pile of build- ing called the Senate, within the walls of which are the offices of all the various departments of the local government. This building forms one side of a triangle, the remaining two being composed of the Treasury and Arsenal. In the vestibule of the Trea- sury, or Orovjie Pallast, is a collection of busts of noble Poles, the quiet memo- rials of very unquiet gentlemen, mostly of the seventeenth and eighteenth cen- turies, finely executed, and evident likenesses ; and on this, the ground floor, there is also a very curious and large collection of the state carriages of former sovereigns ; amongst them is that of a Russian Patriarch, which has talc windows ; likewise a very small one that belonged to Peter the Grreat when a child, and a sledge fitted up like a drawing-room, in which the Em- press Elizabeth and twelve of her suite used to dine, when on her journeys between the two capitals ; it is not unlike the cabin of a ship with a table in the centre ; the interior is well but not luxuriously fitted up. For the comfort of the Imperial family, one feels rejoiced that these primitive carriages have come to a stand-still, for most fearful and dislocating must they have been over a corduroy road. Some of these ancient equipages have whole fir trees for their axles; one of them is said to have been built in England. Here also is a model of an ill-con- ceived and extravagant design for a palace, which Catherine II. is said to have contemplated erecting on the Kremlin Hill. Everything, with the
exception of the old churches and tower, was to have been levelled with the ground, and this giant palace, forming a screen round the whole, was intended to replace them ; the circumference of the walls of this building would have been two miles ; the model is said to have cost ^2500. Luckily some new freak of fancy interfered to save the Kremlin from this threatened desecration; and the model, beautifully executed, and capable of being taken entirely to pieces by means of numerous sliding panels, remains a memorial of the skill and dexterity of the artist. There is like- wise a model of the Grreat Moscow Riding School, which affords a better opportunity of obtaining information as to the construction of its roof than the traveller can have by going over the building itself. Here, too, is pre- served the alarm bell of " the Mighty Novgorod," which, in the days of its power and celebrity, was looked upon as the palladium of that proud city, and the removal of which to Moscow was considered by the citizens as the final blow to its prosperity. Its size, though considerable, is here scarcely appreciated, from the immediate con- trast with the " Monarch bell," in the adjoining square.
The chief attraction, however, is in the upper story of the Treasury, where, in a suite of rooms, are collected and ar- ranged the crowns of the early Tzars, warlike trophies and trappings, and a host of historical knick-knacks too numerous to mention. A ticket is ab- solutely necessary from the governor to enable a stranger to see these, or he must wait for a public day, when it is sometimes inconveniently crowded. The ceremony of opening this treasure- house is one of no small state and im- portance, and the officer, a general, in whose immediate charge it is, breaks with his own hands the official seal, which is placed on the folding doors after its very interesting contents have been displayed to visitors. Ascending by a handsome flight of stairs, the tra-
54(S
BOUTE 94. THE TEEASURY.
Sect. V.
veller enters a circular room of moderate dimensions, with a lofty vaiilted roof ; on advancing to the centre, he perceives a long gallery on either side of him ; at the extremity of one is a miserably ex- ecuted picture of the present Emperor ; and, at the extremity of the opposite one, a throne covered with crimson velvet, and blazing with diamonds. Immedi- ately around the spectator are figures on horseback, in arms and accoutrements of various ages and nations, with huge piles of pistols and swords, and coats of mail, fancifully heaped up; near this armour, and under the portrait of Peter the Great, is apair of kettle-drums, and the chair, in- accurately called alitter, of Charles XII., said to have been taken at the battle of Pultava, which, considering its age, is in good order, and does not bear, as far as we could discern, any signs of having been in that bloody fray. It is made of ebony or stained wood, and neatly turned in a pattern not unusual in arm-chairs of the present day. The worn and faded blue and embroidered cushion looks as if it had once been ex- ceedingly smart ; and, considering the character and habits of the gallant King, it is not easy to account for his having such an elegant piece of fur- niture in his camp. In reading his history we see him bereft, not only of luxuries but of the necessaries of life, and obliged to put up with the rough contrivances that the best care and ingenuity of his followers could, in their disastrous position, make for him ; but, badly as they were off, they would certain'y have constructed something on which he could have laid his leg up, for it was in that limb that he was wounded, and Voltaire states that the litter was shattered by a ball ; if this, therefore, was the case, it has been un- commonly well repaired.
In the same room is a portrait of Ca- therine II. in man's attire, a poor affair as a picture, but said to be very like her ; it bears the same stamp of countenance and features usually ascribed to her. Under that of Alexander are suspended
the keys of Zamosk and Warsaw ; and in a box covered with crimson velvet and gold, at the Emperor's feet, is the Constitution of Poland. On either side of this portrait are the stand- ards and eagles of that couutr}'-, scathed and torn by shot and shell. The two long galleries which open out of this room contain innumerable treasures, amongst them the captured crowns of the various countries now forming onl}'- provinces of this vast empire, as well as those of the Muscovite Tzars. Some of these are said to have been presented by the Greek Emperor Comnenus to Vladimir the Great. The crowns of Siberia, Novgorod, Kazan, Moscow, Poland, and the Crimea are very ad- vantageously placed, each on an ele- gant tripod about four or five feet high, cushioned and embroidered in velvet and gold. The crown of Kazan was brought to Moscow by the victo- rious Ivan Vassilievitch ; these regal curiosities are interesting, but the greater portion of them are not remark- able for their workmanship. There are several other diadems similarly ar- ranged, consisting of the regalia worn by successive Tzars and Tzarinas at their coronations, and several models of others presented at various times to different members of the Imperial fa- mily. The crown of Vladimir II., surnamed Monomachus, is well exe- cuted in a kind of fillagree gold, sur- mounted by a golden cross, and orna- mented with pearls and precious stones, and until the reign of Peter the Great was used at the coronation of the Tzars ; the jewels, though in great profusion, including diamonds uncut, are, many of them, wretchedly set. The crown of Alexivitch has 881 dia- monds in it, and under the cross that surmounts it is an immense ruby. There is also the crown of Peter the Great containing 847, and that of Ca- therine I., his widow, enriched by 2536 fine diamonds, to which the Empress Anne added a ruby of enormous size, bought b}'' the Russian ambassador at
Bussia.
EOUTE 94. THE TREASURY.
549
Pekin, and, lastly, the crown of Po- land, which is of polished gold, sur- mounted by a cross, but without any other ornament. Many thrones are also to be seen in these rooms ; amongst them may be mentioned that of Ivan Vas- sillievitch, of carved ivory and Greek workmanship, presented to him by the ambassadors who accompanied from Rome to Moscow the Princess Sophia, whom he had demanded in marriage. This lady was the daughter of Thomas Paleologus Porphrygenitus, brother to Constantine Paleologus, who died in 1453, after seeing his empire fall into the hands of the Turks. By this mar- riage Ivan III. considered himself the heir of Constantine, and took the title of Tzar, the meaning of which is Caesar ; and thus it is, perhaps, that subsequent emperors, down to the present time, have shown a feeling of acquisitiveness towards that paradise upon earth, Stamboul. The throne of Boris Godu- noff, who was Tzar in 1604, is of wood plated with gold, so that it has the appearance of massive metal : it is adorned with 2760 turquoises and other precious stones ; that of Michael Romanoff, the first of the reigning family, is enriched with 8824, and the throne of Alexis, his son, contains 876, and 1220 other jewels, and many pearls. The throne of Peter the Great and his brother Ivan is the largest and ugliest of all ; it is of massive silver, separated in the middle ; and behind the curtain, at the back, under the canopy, is an opening through which the Tzarina Sophia, their sister, was wont to dictate their answers to the foreign ambassadors. Here is also to be seen the throne used by the present Emperor at Warsaw. But perhaps the greatest curiosity is a pair of old wooden chairs used at the coronation of the Em- perors. That in which the Tzar sits to receive the homage of his vassals is of the coarsest workmanship — plain, rough wood ; but every part, the legs, arms, and back, studded with diamonds, many of laige size, but almost all im-
perfectly polished. The Empress's chair is likewise of coarse wood, some- what less profusely adorned with dia- monds. The entire number of precious stones cannot be less than 1000; but, were they not preserved among the imperial regalia, no one would for a moment believe them to be anything but glass. Sceptres, balls, rings, gold plate, vases, plateaux, and epergnes are to be seen in abundance. The sceptre of Poland, a long greenish stone, set in gold at the two extremities, is broken in the middle, the two pieces lying side by side. " I asked," says Kohl, " the curator of the collection about this fracture, but he knew nothing respect- ing it ; a looker on said, ' C'est un hazard bien drole.'" The wands of state borne by the two senior Russian field marshals at the coronation are also remarkable for the two immense emeralds, one of which is set in the top of each. In another room is a man's saddle and trappings belonging to Ca- therine II., on which she used to ex- hibit herself to her loving subjects in the uniform of her guards — a very fiivoui ite amusement of that Empress ; and cer- tainly, to judge from the full-length pic- ture, the costume became her bravely. The bridle-head and reins, as well as the stirrups and saddle cloth, are most lavishly strewn with diamonds, ame- thysts, and large turquoises ; dazzling indeed to look on, even now ; and what indeed must have been the eftect when the lady and her saddle were seen together on her charger 1 A large boss adorned the horse's chest, in the centre of which was an immense dia- mond, of the most surpassing brilliancy : around this, showing to perfection its size and brightness, was a circle of pink topazes, inclosed in its turn by pearls, and these again by diamonds, the whole encircled by a broad goldl band.
Nor are memorials of the great Peter wanting. Amongst them are his huge pocket-book, of coarse leather, his im- mense drinking cup, also a glass cup,
B B 3
550
BOUTE 94. — THE AESENAL.
Sect. V.
with a ducat inclosed in it, blown by tbe Tzar himself, and numerous speci- mens of his mechanical skill and un- wearied industry,
A curious model of a ship, of silver gilt, sent to him from Holland, is worthy of notice.
A large recess is occupied with a most miscellaneous assortment of clothes, belonging to five or six suc- cessive occupants of the Russian throne : the coarse brown frock of Peter the Great is ranged beside the splendidly embroidered robes of his consort, and the still more gorgeous apparel of the second Catherine. Here, too, is the canopy of state beneath which, at the coronation, the Emperor walks from his palace to the Cathedral of the As- sumption ; while the whole extent of one long wall is occupied by an array of boots, from the massive and iron- bound jack boots of Peter, to the deli- cate beaver-skin of the Emperor Alex- ander, apparently but little fitted for a Russian winter. Presume not to touch these honoured relics. We were about to lay our profane hand upon the huge spur that decked one of the patriarchs of this family of boots, but a servant in the royal livery sprang before us, and with no very friendly gesture, and a quick expression of " not permitted" (Ne pozvoleno), prevented such a desecra- tion.
The arms suspended from the walls, and piled up as trophies, comprise some beautiful Damascus scimitars, with the mystic characters of the Koran on their bright blades, and some very curious Chinese sabres, with long straight blades, bearing the highest polish, and, apparently, of surpassing temper.
THE ARSENAL AND FRENCH CANNON.
In a court near the Treasury, or, as it is sometimes termed, the Orushei- naya Palata (Palace of Arms), are arranged the cannon taken by the Russians during the disastrous retreat of the French in 1812. A trophy
composed of them, erected in the most conspicuous spot in the Kremlin, would make an excellent pendant to the co- lumn in the Place Vendome. Most of these guns, and others, are ranged in long rows, with small shields erected on staves, to indicate to which nation they originally belonged, and their numbers, thus — Polish cannon, so many ; Westphalian, so many ; the sight of the latter will shock no one's feelings, as that state has ceased to exist, and the country is preserved from entire oblivion only by its hams. Of Dutch cannon there are some, but few Mynheers wander as far as Moscow to be pained at the view. The Bava- rian cannon are handsome, new, and bright ; nor are Prussian wanting, but of French there are enough to stock an arsenal. The entire number of Eu- ropean cannon is said to be nearly 900, whose united weight is estimated at nearly 400 tons. In addition to the nations we have already mentioned, there are in the collection guns of the Austrians, Spaniards, and Swedes ; also of Turks, Persians, and other infi- dels. Some specimens of the latter claim attention by their elegant work- manship. " The only nation," remarks a writer on Russia, " of which no re- presentative is to be found here is the English. I know not that Russia pos- sesses anywhere a warlike trophy of that nation." An anecdote is, how- ever, current, that one of our country- men, while looking over this arsenal, descried an English piece of ordnance, and, the circumstance having been mentioned by him to the English am- bassador at St. Petersburgh, inquiry was made, and, on examination, the gun was found to have belonged to some English merchant vessel that had been wrecked on the coast of Finland, and not a fair " prise de guerre." The Russian government having been in- formed of this, the gun was immediately withdrawn. The arsenal, to the right of the senate, contains a magazine of weapons sufficient to arm 100,000
Russia.
EOUTE 94. — THE TZAE KOLOKOL.
551
men, and a collection of standards of Russia's enemies; the spoils of Pu- gatsheff are the only objects of in- terest. This rebellious Cossack once terrified the Russian empire with can- non at which Russian children would now laugh. They are nothing more than clumsy iron tubes, and the coarse seam of the joining is visible. The flag carried before this plunderer is worthy of the ordnance, being of coarse sackcloth, with a Madonna painted on it. This rag was fastened to a staff, which looks as if it had been fashioned by a bill-hook. The standard, however, possessed, in all probability, a kind of sanctity, for a breach in the centre is carefully repaired with an iron ring. The muskets are principally of Tula manufacture, and in a press are kept specimens of the muskets of other nations.
THE TZAR KOLOKOL, KING OF BELLS.
Close to the tower of Ivan Veliki, and reared on a massive pedestal of granite, stands the mighty bell, most justly named the Monarch (Tzar Kolo- kol), for no other may dispute its sovereignty. It was cast by the com- mand of the Empress Anne in 1730, and bears her figure in flowing robes upon its surface, beneath which is a deep border of flowers. It is said that the tower in which it originally hung was burnt in 1737, and its fall buried the enormous mass deep in the earth, and broke a huge fragment from it. There it lay for many years, visited in its subterraneous abode by the enter- prising traveller only, and carefully guarded by a Russian sentinel. In the spring of 1837, exactly a century after it fell, the present Emperor caused it to be removed, and, rightly deeming it to be one of the greatest wonders of this wondrous city, placed it upon its present pedestal, with the broken frag- ment beside it. The fracture took place just above the bordering of flowers that runs round the bell, and this piece is about jS' feet high and d/'
7
feet thick. The height of the whole bell is 21-3 feet, and 22*5 feet in diameter, and it is in no part less than 3 inches in thickness. Seen from even a short distance, surrounded as it is on all sides by objects on such an immense scale, with the lofty Ivan Veliki towering immediately behind it, the impression of its magnitude is by no means striking ; it is only when the spectator comes near to it and stands beside the broken fragment of this metal mountain, or descends the stairs that lead beneath it and looks up into its capacious cavern, that he becomes sensible of its enormous bulk. This giant communicator has been conse- crated as a chapel, and the entrance to it is by an iron gate, and down a few steps that descend into a cavity formed by the wall and the excavation under it. The Tzar Kolokol is highly vene- rated, for the religious feelings of the people were called into action when it was cast, and every one who had a fraction of the precious metals threw into the melting mass some offering either of silver or gold ; the decorative parts of it are in low relief and badly executed ; the traveller should try the effect of a shout in loud tones within it. " As_ this is probably the largest metal casting in existence," observes Erman, "it seems worthy of remark that Herodotus (460 B.C.) saw with the Scythians, between the Dnieper and Kouban, what was at that time no less wonderful as a work of art. It was a metal vessel, which, from the thickness and the cubic contents as- signed to it by the historian, who says nothing of its shape, may be computed at a medium to have weighed 41,000 French pounds, supposing it to have been bronze. This Scythian vessel, Herodotus adds, was six times as large as the largest similar vessel in Greece. Even at the present day such a work would be thought remarkable, for the largest bell in France, that of Rouen, weighs but 36,000 lbs., the famous Tom of Lincoln was only 9894 lbs. ;
^ U€li»^ frv^ ^ Aj^istclLi^
fc«ro
Jlo^ ^m^' ^jr^Y*
552
ROUTE 9-4. THE TOWER OF IVAN VELIKI.
Sect. V.
it is only in comparison witli the bell of the Kremlin that the vessel of Ex- ampe appears insignificant, for the former weighs between^ |OP^QOQL and 400, OOQ Iha- or about ten times the weight of the Scythian vessel.
" Herodotus informs us, that Arian- tas, king of the Scythians, collected the metal for the vessel at Exampe by a tax imposed on the whole nation, every man being obliged, on pain of death, to bring in a spear head, and he adds that the object of this was to learn the numbers of the people. Now it is remarkable that similar contribu- tions for public purposes are of frequent occurrence in the history of Russia ; in the case of this bell the offerings were numerous, and there exists, more- over, a tradition, that to cast the Tzar Kolokol, vessels, arms, and imple- ments of various kinds were collected throughout the empire.
" Bells as well as everything else connected in the remotest degree with ecclesiastical purposes, are held in just respect by the Russian people, but that of the Kremlin is recommended to espe- cial veneration by the name of the ' Eternal Bell.'
" Calculated from the present price of copper, this mass of metal must be worth 350,000/."
the tower of john the great, "ivan'veliki.
Judging by our own experience of Moscow sight-seeing, the visitor will, when he has seen the Treasury and the churches of the Kremlin, have done quite sufficient for one day ; but if his physical powers are above the aver- age, or he is fresh from college, he may as well ascend the tower of Ivan Veliki, and then walk home to his hotel with the pleasing consciousness that he has lionized everything worth seeing within the Kremlin walls. This tower is a most singular building ; rising without ornament of any kind to the height of more than two hundred feet, surmounted by a gilded dome upon
which, as on all the other gilded domes within the Kremlin (about sixty in number) the cross is displayed above the crescent.
This tower, the loftiest and most re- markable in Moscow, is the campanile to the church of St. Nicholas the Ma- gician. The summit is gained by a good staircase, and the view from each story, which serves as a belfry, stimu- lates the visitor to renew his exertions to reach the top. In the first of these stories hangs, in solitary grandeur, a bell, which, but for the mightier one below, would appear stupendous. To ring it is of course impossible : even to toll it requires the united strength of three men, who, pulling with separate ropes, swing the vast clapper round, making it strike the bell in three different places. Standing under it, and with his arm stretched out above his head, the traveller, even if a tall man, will fail to touch the top. In the belfry above that in which this is suspended are two other bells of far smaller but still of immense proportions, and above these are forty or fifty more, which di- minish in size in each tier successively. The traveller should touch these bells with his umbrella or stick, the tones are very beautiful.
A superior dexterity in casting metals, traditionally preserved in this part of the earth from the earliest times, is proved by the bells now hanging in this tower, which were cast soon after the erection of the church in 1600. The largest of these bells weighs 64 tons ; it is con- sequently five times as heavy as the famous bell of Erfurt, and four times that of Rouen. It is held so sacred, that it is sounded only three times a year, and then alone ; the others are rung altogether, and an extraordinary noise they must make ; but this din and jumble of sounds is that which is most pleasing to Russian ears. On Easter eve a death-like silence reigns in all the streets, till on a sudden, at midnight, the thunders of the guns of
■•nL Russia.
KOUTE 94. — THE TOWEE OF IVAN VELIKI.
553
the Kremlin, and the uproar of its bells, supported by those of 250 other churches, are heard. The streets and church towers are illuminated, and a dense throng of 400,000 people seems inspired with but one thought and feel- ing ; with mutual felicitations and em- braces, all repeat the words " Christ is risen," and all evince joy at the glad tidings. Should the cmtode ascend the campanile of Ivan Veliki, he will expect a fee.
The view from the summit of this tower is one of the most remarkable in Europe. Clustered round it are the numerous gilt domes of the churches within the Kremlin, and those of the ancient and peculiar building called the Tower of the Kremlin ; amongst these are grouped the Treasury, the Bishop's Palace, and other modern edifices, strangely out of keeping with the Eastern architecture of the place, all of which are inclosed by the lofty em- battled walls and fantastic towers of the fortress.
Near the Holy Gate, the green towers of which are surmounted by golden eagles, is the cathedral of St. Basil, grotesque in form and colour, and wind- ing under the terrace of the Kremlin gardens is the Moskva, the silvery though narrow line of which may be traced far into the country. Round this brilliant centre stretches on every side the city and its suburbs, radiant in all the colours of the rainbow, which are used in the decoration of the roofs and walls of the churches and houses ; the effect of this mosaic is heightened by the foliage of the trees which grow in many parts of the town as well as on the banks of the river. The Greek faqade of the Foundling Hospital at- tracts attention from its extreme length and the style of its architecture, in such striking contrast with that of the town generally. The old monasteries with their bright blue domes spangled with golden stars, and minarets gilt or coloured, particularly of the Seminoff and Donskoi, surrounded by groves ol
treeSj lie scattered on the skirts of the town. Beyond these are the Sparrow Hills, on which Napoleon paused ere he descended to take possession of the devoted city. No view of any capital in Europe can be compared with that of Moscow from this tower, except that of Constantinople from the Galata or Seraskier's, which certainly surpasses it in beauty, for the horizon here is one unbroken line of dreary steppe, while at Stamboul the distance is formed by the Sea of Marmora and the snowy summits of Olympus. Blue and green, or flashing with gold, the countless domes and minarets of Moscow at first confuse the eye ; but this effect soon wears off, and the traveller Avho mounts the tower of the Veliki for the second time will readily admit that the scene outspread before him is perhaps the most characteristic he has ever witnessed in his wanderings ; attachment to it in- creases, and when the hour of depar- ture arrives he will do well to take another glance at it from the terrace of the Kremlin, so as to have it as much as possible impressed upon his memory. We never tired of it, and often re- mained here in the evening to see the setting sun reflected upon the distant dome of the Seminoff, and sometimes even lingered on to see the old capital sleeping still and silent in the pale moonlight. In St. Petersburgh all is whitewash, and stiff and stately, but in her ancient rival all is picturesque ; the city seems to work gradually upon the feelings as by a spell, her wild Tartar invaders and boyard chiefs of the olden time rise up in the imagina- tion and people again in fantastic array the wide terrace of the old fortress, while the deeds of the foreign invaders of our own times impart a thrilling in- terest to the scene — the northern limit of the long career of Napoleon's aggres- sions.
Descending from the tower of Ivan Veliki, the traveller may pass by the Emperor's palace to the western gate of the Kremlin, which, like the other
654
EOUTE 94. — THE CATHEDKAL OF ST. BASIL. SeCt. V.
three entrances, has a lofty tapering tower of green and white, and a gilt eagle for its vane. Here a flight of steps lead into the Kremlin gardens, which bound the whole western part of the fortress ; these are beautifully laid out, and on this spot fireworks are let off on the eve of every festival.
THE CATHEDRAL OP ST. BASIL, ALSO CALLED THE CHURCH OF THE PRO- TECTION OP MARY.
This church is situated on the Krasnoi Ploschad (Red Place), be- tween the walls of the Kremlin and those of the Kitai Grorod, and an edifice more bizarre both in point of form and colour cannot well be ima- gined. Standing alone at the extre- mity of this wide aren, the Vassili Blagennoi seems erected in this con- spicuous situation as if to show how grotesque a building the ingenuity of man could devote to the service of his Maker. There are no less than twenty towers and domes, all of different shapes and sizes, and painted in every possible colour ; some are covered with a net- work of green over a surface of yellow, another dome is a bright red with broad white stripes, and a third is gilded. Some historians affirm that it was built to commemorate the cap- ture of Kazan, others that it was a whim of Ivan the Terrible to try how many distinct chapels could be erected under one roof, on a given extent of ground, in such a manner that divine service could be performed in all simul- taneously without any interference one with another. It is also said that the Tzar was so delighted with the archi- tect, an Italian, who had thus admirably gratified his wishes, that when the edi- fice was finished he sent for him, pro- nounced a wann panegyric on his work, and then had his eyes put out, in order that he might never build such another. A strange caprice of cruelty, if true, punishing the man, not for fail- ing, but succeeding, in gratifying his employer.
" The whole is far from forming a whole, for no main building is discover- able in this architectural maze ; in every one of the towers or domes lurks a separate church, in every excrescence a chapel ; or they may be likened to chimneys expanded to temples. One tower stands forth prominently amid the confusion, yet it is not in the cen- tre, for there is in fact neither centre nor side, neither beginning nor end ; it is all here, and there. Strictly speak- ing, this tower is no tower at all, but a church, and the chief one in the knot of churches, the Church of the Protec- tion of Holy Mary. This tower, one hundred and fifty feet in height, is quite hollow within, having no division of any kind, and lessening by degrees to the summit, and from its small cupola the portrait of the ^protect- ing Mother' looks down as if from heaven. This church is placed as it were upon the neck of another, from the sides of which a number of chapels proceed, Palm Sunday Chapel, the Chapel of the three Patriarchs, of Alexander Svirskoi, and others. Ser- vice is performed in these on one day in the year only. The greater part are so filled up with sacred utensils and objects of adoration that there is hardly any room left for the pious who come to pray. Some of the chapels have a kind of cupola like a turban, as if they were so many Turks' heads from which Ivan had scooped the Mahom- medan brains and supplied their place with Christian furniture. Some of the stones of the cupolas are cut on the sides, others not ; some are three- sided, some four-sided ; some are ribbed, or fluted ; some of the flutes are perpendicular, and some wind in spiral lines round the cupola. To render the kaleidoscope appearance yet more perfect, every rib and every side is painted of a different colour. Those neither cut in sides nor ribbed are scaled with little smooth, glazed, and painted bricks ; and, when these scales are closely examined, they even are
Russia. ROUTE 94. — the chapel of the iberian mother. 555
seen to differ from one another ; some are oval, others cut like leaves. The greater part of the cupola-crowned towers have a round body, but not all ; there are six-sided and eight- sided towers.
From remote times wax-taper sellers have established themselves between the entrances, and there they dis- play their gilded and many-coloured w^ares. From one corner the upper churches are gained by a broad covered flight of steps, which is beset day and night by hungry beggars who look to be fed by the devout. These steps lead to a gallery or landing-place which branches off right and left to a laby- rinth of passages leading to the sepa- rate doors of the temple on the roof, so narrow and winding that it costs many a painful effort to work one's way through. In some parts they are con- venient enough, and even expand into spacious terraces. Where they lead outwards they are of course covered, and their roofs are supported by pillars of different forms and sizes. Whole flocks of half-wild pigeons that build their nests here are constantly flying in and out. Imagine then all these points and pinnacles surmounted by crescents, and by very profusely carved crosses, fancifully wreathed with gilded chains ; imagine, further, with how many various patterns of arabesques every wall and passage is painted ; how from painted flower- pots gigantic thistles, fljwers, and shrubs spring forth, vary into vine- wreaths, wind and twist further till they end in simple lines and knots ; imagine the now somewhat faded colours, red, blue, green, gold, silver, all fresh and gaudy, and the traveller may in some degree comprehend how these buildings must have delighted the eye of Ivan."
THE CHAPEL OF THE IBERIAN MOTHER
OF aoD.
This chapel, called in Russian the " Iverskaya Boshia Mater," stands at
the foot of the hill by which the Kras- noi Ploschad is reached, and close to the Sunday Gate (Voskressenskaia Vorota), the most frequented entrance to Moscow. The Red Place is here entered by a double archway in the barrier wall of the old Tartar division of the city, and between the two gate- ways, in a space about twenty feet wide, is the oratory in question. Greor- gia gave birth to the miraculous pic- ture of the Iberian Mother, from thence it passed to a monastery on Mount Athos, and some centuries after her reputation for miraculous powers spread to Russia, when the Tzar Alexis Mi- chaelovitch, who flourished in 1650, invited her to Moscow, and fixed her abode at the Voskressensk Gate.
Striking as the devotion of the Rus- sian appears to be at St. Petersburg and elsewhere, it is not for a moment to be compared with what one witnesses daily in Moscow, not only in the churches, but also before the shrines and chapels in the streets, and no Rus- sian leaves or arrives at Moscow on or from a journey without invoking the Iberian Mother's blessing. Pass when he pleases, the traveller will remark that this chapel is beset by worshippers ; the first step is always fully occupied, while others unable to reach that more favourite spot kneel on various parts of the pavement ; and a greater degree of earnestness will be observed in the de- votions of those who pray here than in any other church of Moscow.
" Her chapel," writes Kohl, ''con- sists of one undivided area, the saint herself being in a kind of sanctuary hollowed out at the farther end ; here, in the half-darkened back-ground, she may be indistinctly discerned, resplen- dent, however, in gold and precious stones. Her complexion, like that of all Russian saints, is dark brown, not to say black. Round her head is a net of real pearls ; on one shoulder a large jewel is fastened, and another of equal brilliancy rests on her brow, above which glitters a brilliant crown. In
^56
EOUTE 94. — THE DONSKOI MONASTERY.
Sect. V.
one corner of the picture, on a silver plate, is inscribed, « (U^jrjj^ &iou luv *l(iipMv. Around the picture are gold brocaded hangings, to which angels' heads, painted on porcelain with silver wings, are sewn : the whole is lighted up by thirteen silver lamps. Beside the picture there are a number of draw- ers containing wax tapers, and books having reference to her history. Her hand and the foot of the child are co- vered with dirt from the abundant kissing ; it sits like a crust in little raised points, so that long since it has not been hand and foot that have been kissed, but the concrete breath of pious lips. The doors of the chapel stand open the whole day, and all are ad- mitted who are in sorrow, and heavy laden ; and this includes here, as every- where else, a considerable number, and the multitudes that stream in testify the power which this picture exercises ever their minds. None ever pass, however pressing their business, with- out bowing and crossing themselves ; the greater part enter, kneel devoutly down before ' the Mother,' and pray with fervent sighs. Here come the peasants early in the morning before going market, who lay aside their bur- dens, pray awhile, and then go their way ; hither comes the merchant on the eve of a new speculation, to ask the assistance of ' the Mother ;' hither come the healthy and the sick, the Wealthy, and those who would become so ; the arriving and the departing traveller, the fortunate and the unfor- tunate, the noble and the beggar — all pray, thank, supplicate, sigh, laud, and pour out their hearts. Fashionable la- dies leave their splendid equipages and gallant attendants, and prostrate them- selves in the dust with the beggars. On a holiday two or three hundred passing pilgrims may be seen kneeling before ' the Iberian Mother.' Since Alexis, the Tzars have never failed to visit it frequently ; the present em- peror never omits to do so when he comes to Moscow, and it is said that he
has more than once in the middle of the night wakened the monks, in order that he might perform his devotions,"
The picture is also, if desired, car- ried to the houses of sick persons, and a carriage with four horses is kept con- stantly leady, in which it is trans- ported with pomp to the bed of the dying. The visit costs five rubles, and a present is usually made to the monks.
We had almost forgotten to mention the principal thing : viz., there is a little scratch on the right cheek which distils blood. This wound was in- flicted, nobody knows when or how, by Turks or Circassians ; and this is ex- actly how the miraculous powers of the picture were proved, for scarcel}'^ had the infidel steel pierced the canvas than the blood trickled down the painted cheek. This is represented m all the copies of the picture.
MONASTERY OF THE DONSKOI.
We have already stated that the churches in Moscow are countless, scarcely a street can be traversed with- out a cluster of green or red domes and minarets meeting the traveller's eye. The convents and monasteries are also numerous, and situated, some in the interior and oldest parts of the city, others in the meadows and gardens of the suburbs, their walls embracing so many churches, buildings, gardens, and fields, and crowned Avith such numerous towers, tliat each looks like a little town. The largest of these religious establishments are the Donskoi and Seminoff nion;isteries, to both of which in the summer we would recommend the traveller to drive in the cool of the evening, to hear the singing, which is very good, and stroll or sit under the trees in the churchyard, at this sea- son the favourite resort of the in- habitants. Many of the monasteries in Russia were originally intended, not only as places of religious retirement, but as a safe retreat in the turbulent times of the early Tzars ; that of the
Buss la.
EOUTE 94. THE DONSKOI MONASTEEY.
557
celebrated Troitzka (or Trinity) fre- quently sheltered members of the Im- perial family^ in times of intrigue and civil strife, and the Donskoi, with its numerous turrets, would hare baffled its assailants before the days when the " villanous salt-petre was digged out of the bowels of the harmless earth."
Within its walls, which are of ancient aspect, painted in broad streaks of white and red; and surmounted by the same Eastern-looking battlements as those of the Kremlin, are six churches and chapels, a birch wood, severrJ courts, and the dwellings for the Archimandrite and the monks. These lie in the usual order of Russian monasteries, to the right and left of the entrance near the wall. The principal path on entering leads directly to the chief church of the cloister, the other churches stand- ing on either side, surrounded like it with trees. The principal church is of red brick, large and spacious, the walls and ceiling are coyered with paintings, the ground in all of them being gilded ; they are, without excep- tion, miserable productions. The screen is likewise one mass of gaudy colours and gold, under which are concealed several massive pieces of silver. The most conspicuous figure is the Donskoi Virgin, or Virgin of the Cossacks of the Don, to whom the monastery is dedi- cated. Like all similar figures in Grreek churches, the face alone is exposed, while the body is covered with plates of silver, carved to represent the dress of a female. The head-dress is of gold,, in which are set several very large and sparkling diamonds. Two or three mouldering relics of humanity are pre- served here in gorgeous cases. But the great object of interest is the burial- ground of the nobility, and, it being a spot of extreme sanctity, large sums of money are frequently paid for permis- sion to be buried within the holy pre- cincts. The monuments, chiefly of red granite, are consequently very nume- rous^ and greatly crowded; some of them are of rare marbles and richly '
ornamented, but little taste is dis- played. The only inscription which we remember to have seen, not in Russ, was that on the tomb cf the late Count WoronzofF, many years am- bassador in England.
The rules of this monastery are somewhat severe, the monks rise at three, and their time, to judge by their own account, is fully occupied. It is possible, but difficult, to quit the monastic life. If a monk desires to return to the world, he must, in the first instance, submit his motives to the Archimandrite or superior, who should for six months seek to combat them, and if he cannot succeed in con- vincing the discontented brother, or if his motives are well founded, such, for example, as having a mother to support, they are laid before the Emperor and the Synod, who alone can decide whe- ther they are important enough to pro- cure him a release from a conventual life. Kohl states that the Russian monasteries are not very strict, and that, at the tea parties given by the monks, women were present ; he adds, however, that this freedom of inter- course does net lead practically to a greater laxity of morals than in the monasteries of other Catholic countries.
The Seminoff monastery has, like the Donskoi, all the outward appearance of a fortress, and to complete the picture the inmates have furnished their ram- parts with a few pieces of ordnance, not, however, of very large calibre, but cer- tainly to our ideas strangely out of keep- ing with the place. The prospect from the tower of the Seminoff, or from the terrace of the principal church, is pre- ferred by many to that from the Sparrow Hills, as affording a finer and fuller view of the towers of the Kremlin. The eye follows the course of the river through the whole intervening space, and there is scarcel}'^ a building of sufficient ele- vation to conceal any portion of that matchless combination of tower, dome, arid cupola, above which the Veliki rears his golden head.
558
KOUTE 94. THE SEMINOFF MONASTERY. Sect. V.
The singing at these monasteries is very remarkable, and the traveller should not leave Moscow without hav- ing heard the soft and solemn chant of the Seminoff ; the service at vespers is very striking. Strangers are ad- mitted only on Sundays, or on the eve of a festival. The singing is the most attractive part of the Russian Church Service, though it requires one to be- come acquainted with it before it can be appreciated, for it is completely dif- ferent from the church music of Western Europe. Boys, as in our cathedrals, take the soprano parts, but the great point in a Russian church is to have a few good basses ; considerable expense is incurred on their account, the best voices being everywhere sought for and liberally remunerated. They are not exactly for the choir, but for cer- tain half recitative solos, occasionally required in the service, and which must always be delivered by amazingly strong and deep bass voices, such as " Gospodi pomilui : " the Lord have mercy ! or. Lord we pray thee ; Grrant this, 0 Lord, &c. These solo parts include the open- ing of divine service, the prayer for the Emperor, the warning to the unbe- lievers to depart, the cursing of the heretics, and so forth. In the ordinary churches, the harmony of the voices is less considered than their strength, and in some, such may be heard, fit only to frighten children in any other part of the world. The Russians have in ge- neral very deep and rough voices ; it may, therefore, be imagined what gigantic organs are sometimes brought forward, where the priests give them- selves all possible trouble to strengthen and cultivate the depth and roughness of the singers.
The Russian journals once gave a sketch of the most distinguished bass voices in the empire, and the compass of each was mentioned. The Kazan church had the finest bass; the church of the Archangel Michael, the second ; Nijni Novgorod, the third ; and Khar; koflf, the fourth in excellence. The
above-mentioned distinguished bass of St. Petersburgh was formerly a mer- chant in Tobolsk, where he remained till the stories told of the power of his voice procured him a call to the Kazan church, which, allured by a large salary, he accepted ; but the first time he officiated in the church, and thun- dered out the anathema against here- tics, several ladies were carried away fainting. It is said that, when this man meets a friend in the street to whom he has something to say, he need only utter a stifled " He Ivan," to bring his friend trembling to a stand. To open the doors through which he has to pass, he never uses his hands, he hems only, and the doors spring open of themselves; and it is seriously asserted that his voice once saved his life, and put a party of rob- bers to flight. He was travelling from Tobolsk to Orenburg, when, having lingered behind his companions, he was attacked by a party of marauding Kirguises, and thrown to the ground. They were about to murder him, when he uttered so tremendous a sound in calling for the Cossacks who had rode on before him, that the Kirguises, never doubting they had something more than a man under their knives, galloped off with as much speed as if a whole infernal legion had been in pursuit of them. Thus the voice pre- served itself for the musical world; and now, the better to cherish it, the owner feeds it half the year upon the yolks of eggs.
Besides those of the Donskoi and Seminofl^, there are in Moscow up- wards of twenty convents and monaste- ries ; amongst them is the convent of the Devitchei, at the end of the Devitchei- foll, or Maidens' Field ; a grass-grown waste, without the Semlanoi Govod ; it is on this field that the Russian Em- perors entertain their subjects on the occasion of their coronation ; in 1826 the present Emperor invited 50,000 persons to dine here. In this convent is the miraculous Virgin of Smolensk.
Russia.
KOUTE 94. THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
559
The church contains the tombs of seve- ral Tzarinas and princesses ; amongst them that of Sophia, the ambitious sister of Peter the Great. On the walls that surround the Devitchei there are sixteen towers ; the principal church has, as usual, five smaller ones near it, besides suplementary chapels, and a great tower for the bells is not wanting. The churchyard in the inner court of the cloister is beautifully laid out with shrubs and flowers; the monu- ments are very numerous ; the view from the campanile is fine, but not so picturesque as that from the towers of the Androniefskoi Monastery, around which is the valley of the Yausa, rich in gardens, trees and magnificent houses.
Then there is the Tshudoff Monas- tery, on the Kremlin, the Sa-Ikono Spasskoi, to which is attached a school for young people destined for the church, and the Greek convent. In the Sa-Ikono Spasskoi the public library is one of the best, if not the best in Moscow.
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
One morning will be fully occupied in a visit to this institution, to see which it is necessary to procure an order, and give twenty-four hours' no- tice. The establishment is on as large a scale as that of St. Peters- burgh, and its expenses are defrayed by a tax of ten per cent, on all places of public amusement, and the interest of sums borrowed from a Lombard Bank attached to the hospital. One of the Demidoif family contributed largely to its support, and made great addi- tions to the building. Several thou- sand children are admitted annually, and the entire number, either in the house or participating in some way or other from this institution, is up- wards of 25,000 ; the proportion of boys to girls is slightly in favour of the former.
The upper part of this immense build-
ing is appropriated to the infants and wet-nurses, of which there are always 600 of each. " The latter," says a recent traveller in his description of this hospital, " drawn up in a line at the foot of their beds, had each a young Muscovite in her arms. They were all in uniform ; not, it is true, in shakos and trowsers, but dark cotton gowns and white aprons, and the peculiar caps worn by nurses in Russia, which I have endeavoured to describe else- where. At the head of each bed was a little cot for the child. Everything was perfectly clean, and the rooms well ventilated; all bowed as we went down the line, and, singular to relate, only one child cried during our stay ! The next suite of rooms was occupied by children from four to seven years of age ; the elder ones were in the school- rooms. The girls were all in the coun- try for change of air : they are en- tirely separated from the boys. After having visited a wilderness of rooms, the chapel, kitchen, and school-rooms, we proceeded to a long low dining hall, and saw five hundred boys at their dinner. Before sitting down, they sung a grace in very good style, and the same afterwards : so many young voices had a very fine effect. The diet was plain, but wholesome, as the healthy appearance of the children attested. I asked the governor if he had not some trouble in keeping so many young ur- chins in order — whether they ever fought 1 He looked perfectly shocked at the question ; i;he idea of such a breach of military discipline had appa- rently never presented itself to his mind, and he very gravely assured me, ' Never ! and that, if unfortu- nately anything of the kind should take place, it would be visited by an extreme punishment.'
" After the children had dined and dispersed, we were ushered into a room where more than three hundred pea- sants, each with a child in her arms, which she had come in from the country to fetch, were waiting for the order to
560
EOUTE 94. — THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
Sect. V.
return to their villages. These women have five rubles a week for suckling and taking care of a child ; and it is very common for them to take one with one of their own still unweaned. Official persons appointed by the esta- blishment go from time to time to look after the children. At the period of our visit, they told us there were about 5000 in the villages in the environs.
" Having seen the establishment in all its details, we were shown into the office where the infants are first received ; it happened that one, the colour of mahogany, and only twenty- four hours old, was brought in while we were looking at the books. These were kept in excellent order, and the nu.nber of clerks employed pi'oved that there was a good deal of business to be done. When the woman came in with the youngster, the only question asked Avas, ' Is he baptized 1' He was not ; and, the chaplain having been called, the child was taken into the adjoining room, where there was a small oratory and font. One of the old nurses, richer perhaps in god-children than any one else in the world, stood for him. He was then taken back to the officer, and his name and number, 3560, with the date of his admission into the establish- ment, were entered in the books. A corresponding ticket was tied round his neck, and a duplicate given to the woman who had brought him, who left perfectly unconcerned. By the pre- sentation of this ticket the child might be claimed at any future time. He was then carried into another room, well washed, dressed in his little uni- form, and, a nurse having been fetched from the upper story, his cries, which had been unceasing ever since his ar- rival, quickly subsided."
Though this is called a foundling hospital, it is in reality a general re- ceptacle for all children who are re- ceived up to a certain age without ex- ception, it being left entirely to the option of the parents to state their names and conditions, and to contribute
or not to the future support of tlie child. Parents paying about M. IO5. have, on entering an infant, the right to see that their child is brought up in the house, the inmates of which are, as may readily be imagined, better cared for than those sent out to nurse. The allowance to the wet-nurses in the country is about 4^. Id. a month. If a boy be left by his parents without any accompanying deposit, he is brought up for the army, and, unless he displays very unusual mental powers, is de- stined for life to serve as a common soldier ; if, on the contrary, the sum of 250 rubles is left with him, he will become an officer. Thus, the boys edu- cated in this institution "become in all cases the property of the state, and furnish a constant, though not very nu- merous, supply of recruits for the va- rious gradations of military service. As a school for engineer officers, it is particularly valuable, many of the best Russian engineers having been educated here. All who show ability are sent to the university, and some of these enter the medical profession.
The superintendant of the girls is a most agreeable and intelligent woman and an admirable linguist. Under her guidance the traveller will see the various rooms appropriated to the in- struction of the girls in ditferent sub- jects, together with some exquisite specimens of their work of various kinds. The embroidery in gold and silver, particularly that of some altar- pieces worked on velvet, is very beau- tiful.
As soon as the girls are come to such an age as to enable the superintendant to form any definite opinion of their capacity, such as give promise of genius of any kind are removed from their companions, and assume a different dress, — the general colour being dark blue, while the clothes worn by these more favoured ones, who are called " class children," are green. As their intellect is gradually developed, the peculiar bent of their minds is care-
Russia.
EOUTE 94. THE PALACE OF PETERSKOI.
561
fully and anxiously watched, and such studies alone are persevered in as are congenial to them ; while, for those who have alike a desire to improve and faculties of a high degree, no limit whatever is prescribed to the cultiva- tion of their talents. Many girls who evince a strong natural genius for mu- sic are allowed, if thoy wish it, to de- vote their whole time and attention to this single pursuit, and many of them become first rate musicians; others are brought up as governesses, and fre- quently obtain high salaries in that capacity. In the same way a few pursue various studies, as chemistry, painting, &c., either solely and exclu- sively^ or combining several at a time : all are taught, if possible, to speak French and German, Avhile many who have a faculty for languages extend their studies to English and Italian; others go upon the stage.
The majority of the girls, beyond a common and useful education in their own language, are employed solely in manual labour, the produce of which goes partly to the funds of the institu- tion, and is partly put by for them to form their marriage portion. All, with- out distinction of age or sex, can re- turn to the hospital should they, from misfortune, fall into distress in after- life. The fate of illegitimate children, and the responsibilities of their parents, have been, and in all probability will remain, one of the difficult subjects for legislation in most countries. But, though some laws regarding it are ne- cessary, there can be no question that natural affection, nay, even common humanity, should inculcate upon those who can possibly raise the means the duty of bringing them up at their ovs^n expense : the facilities afforded by this hospital militate, we think, against this principle. The annual expenses of the establishment amount, it is said, to nearly a million sterling, A donation is expected here, but the fee will be proportionably smaller if the traveller is one of a party.
THE PALACE AND OAKDENS OP PETER- SKOI.
One of the sights of Moscow is the Palace of Peterskoi, situated about three versts from the Petersburgh Grate. It was a creation of the Empress Eliza- beth's, and has little to recommend it, being fantastically built and glaring in colour ; the walls of red and white, and embattled like those of the Krem- lin, inclose a large court-yard, at the end of which is the palace. The in- terior has as little to recommend it to the traveller's notice as the exterior. The only interest, in fact, which is at- tached to this chateau is, that Napo- leon, when Moscow was in flames, fled to it for refuge, and an apartment is shown where by the lurid light of the blazing city he dictated the des- patch that was to convey this intelli- gence to France.
The extensive grounds around the palace are handsomely disposed and or- namented with trees, and the great car- riage road, more than a mile in length, through a thick forest, is one of the finest public drives in existence. This is the great rendezvous of the nobility, and every afternoon all the fashionables of Moscow may be seen here, driving up and down as in Hyde Park, with some difference, however, both as to horses and vehicles. On either side of the great promenade is a walk for foot pas- sengers, and beyond this, almost hidden from view by the thick shade of the trees, are little cottages, arbours, and tents, in which ices and all kinds of re- freshments suited to the season are sold.
The tradespeople also come here on fete days, and in the evening, and fiU the confectioners' shops, which, with a kind of guingxiette, in the shape of a tea-garden, are in great request. The lower orders bring their samovars, and sitting under the trees imbibe gallons of tchai, their favourite beverage ; the sugar is not put into the cup, but a large lump is held in the hand, and sucked at in-
562
BOUTE 94. THE GREAT EIDING SCHOOL., Sect. V.
tervals, as the tea is drunk. Some- times persons in good society may be met with who adhere to this practice. It is a striking feature in the gardens of Peterskoi to see the family groups distributed all over the grounds, with their large brass urn hissing before them, and taking their tea under the gaze of thousands, with as much un- concern as if they were in their own houses.
The summer theatre is in these gar- dens, and at a little distance from the end of the great promenade ; it is built entirely of wood, and is by no means inelegant ; the boxes are open, and the French troop, who always perform here, is composed of very good actors. There is also a ballet. The only objection is its distance from the city, which should not, however, prevent a tra\eller from visiting it. The box-keepers are in Imperial liveries, the whole theatrical department being, as at St. Peters- burgh, in the hands of government. The price of admittance is high, but the receipts go a very short way towards paying the expenses, which are enor- mous. The house is, generally speak- ing, thinly attended, as most families of distinction leave the city in summer. The ball room in the gardens is of very beautiful proportions.
THEATRES.
Moscow possesses two theatres al- most adjoining each other, andnn the immediate vicinity of the old Tartar town. The French Theatre is a poor house, totallj'^ devoid of decoration, and inconveniently built for hearing, owing to the narrow front of the stage and the unusual depth of the pit ; its conver- sion to its present us? was only an after- thought, it having been originally in- tended for a private dwelling. The actors are, generally speaking, very good, so much so indeed, that a French traveller observes that the troop he saw here made him forget the Grym- nase.
The Alexander Theatre, for Russian
operas and dramas, is a showy build- ing, standing in a large open space> which displays its fair proportions to the best advantage, as well as the figure of Victory in her triumphal car over the main entrance. The inside of the house is very large ; in fact, it appeared to us to exceed in magnitude the theatres of the modern Russian capital, though certainly it is not to be compared to the immense theatres of Italy. The royal box struck us as being particu- larly elegant in its shape and decora- tions, but the body of the house wanted light; the orchestra numbers eighty per- formers, and the pit is filled with arm- chairs. The greater portion of the au- dience consists, as at St. Petersburgh, of officers in every variety of uniform. The scanty sprinklings of females in the boxes generally exhibit much greater personal attractions than their country- women at St. Petersburgh.
THE^GREAT RIDING SCHOOL.
One of the most remarkable build- ings in this city is the celebrated riding school, supposed to be the largest room in the world, unsupported by pillar or prop of any kind. Writers differ as to its dimensions, but we believe we are nearly accurate when we place its length at 560 feet, breadth 158 feet, and height 42. The great town-hall of Padua is only 240 feet long and 80 feet broad ; Westminster Hall is 275 feet by 75 ; and King's College, Cam- bridge, 291 feet by 45.^; but that is an area small indeed in comparison, though great is the difference between the two roofs. The only public work that we know of in England that will give a good idea of the length of this riding school, is the Menai Bridge. The ceiling is flat, and the exterior of the roof very slightly elevated. The in- terior is adorned with numerous bas- reliefs of men in armour, and ancient trophies ; and the stoves which can- not be fewer than twenty, made of white shining earthenware, and rising to the ceiling, have a very good effect.
Russia.
ROUTE 94. THE EMPRESS's VILLA.
563
There are small windows at a consider- able height from the ground, but owing to its enormous width the interior of the building looks, even when the sun shines, dull and sombre. Here, in the most intense cold, when even the Rus- sian soldier can scarce stand in his sentry-box, the troops can perform their exercise unobstructed by the severity of the weather ; and this vast inclosure. gives ample room for two regiments of cavalry to go through all their various evolutions and manoeuvres. The traveller will naturally be anxious to examine the peculiar struc- ture of the roof, and ascertain by what unseen support its massive beams are sustained; and this he can do by as- cending the winding stairs in the comer of the riding school, when he will find himself amidst a forest of beams, stays, and rafters, of all forms and di- mensions. The construction is very simple, the principle adopted to support the roof being to make, by crossing beams in all directions, a light solid, which shall not spur in any direction, but rest like the lid of a box upon the walls. The riding schools in St. Pe- tersbnrgh, at the opposite extremities of the Admiralty Ploschad, are vast, but their dimensions fade into insignifi- cance when compared with this gigantic building.
the sparrow hills and the empress's villa.
Amongst the various drives which every stranger takes in the environs of Moscow, that to the Sparrow Hills is one of the most interesting, for from them there is a fine view of the city, and it is the spot from whence Napo- leon threw his first glance over it. As the circuit is considerable, the job- master will not fail to put three or per- haps four horses to the vehicle, and not without good reason, for if there has been any rain, two horses will scarcely draw the carriage through the mire.
The Moskva crossed, the first part
of the road skirts the Kremlin gardens on the left, the great riding school being on the right, and beyond this the Kammenoi bridge is reached ; here the traveller will do well to look back in the direction of the Kremlin. From hence there is an endless succession of wide streets, until the Boulevard is passed ; here the suburb is as spacious as the portion of the city which has been left behind, and at length the Kalouga gate is gained. Beyond the barrier vast buildings line the road on each side for nearly a verst, palaces, hospitals, and barracks, all colossal, while numerous convents rear their embattled walls and tapering towers at a little distance. One very large hos- pital, the Galitzin, is worthy a visit.
The gardens belonging to this family are prettily situated on the sloping banks of the Moskva, which flows in gentle windings beneath them. Near here is the villa of the present Em- press, formerly the property of Count Orloif, and presented by him to her Imperial Majesty. This villa, a much more appropriate term for it than palace, which it is sometimes called, is very handsomely furnished, and com- fort, in the English sense of the word, is quite realized ; the Empress's bed- room and boudoir are particularly worth}^ of attention ; the walls are not papered, but hung with white muslin lined with pink, and fluted with as much care as a goffered collar. Amidst so much good taste displayed here we were not a little surprised to see, in some of the apartments, an article of furniture which induced the belief that the aroma of an Havannah was not objected to within the walls. The view from the balcony at the back of the villa looking towards the river is very pretty.
The gardens and shrubberies are exceedingly well laid out, and the col- lection of hot-house plants very choice. The gardener, an intelligent German, is remarkably attentive to visitors. The Gruelder rose, one of our hardiest
564
ROUTE 9-1. THE SPAEROW HILLS.
Sect. V.
shrubs, we found here in a pot ; this/ with the holly, hawthorn, and ivy, is unable to stand the severe winter, and they are considered greenhouse plants. A ticket of admission is required to see this villa, which must be procured from the chancellerie of the Grovernor of Moscow. It should be visited rather early in the aftefuoon, so as to give the traveller time to have a good view from the Sparrow Hills, the proper hour for which is towards sunset, when every gilded dome and smaller cupola reflects back the bright beams of that luminary, which in some parts of the empire is seen only for a few weeks : the Kremlin faces these hills, and as the traveller gazes on it he will picture to himself what must have been the feelings of the French army when they caught the first view of its golden mi- narets and starry domes. After tra- versing the dreary plains of Lithuania, and fighting, with fearful loss, their way up to this spot, the limit of their long career, no wonder that those weary legions, xniable to suppress their jo}', shouted, with one voice, " Moscow." Their toils and sufferings they hoped were now to end, and, like their bre- thren in arms on the burning sands of Egypt, when they beheld from a dis- tance the ruins of the mighty Thebes, they grounded their weapons unbidden by their chiefs, and stood motionless, as if the end and object of their enter- prise were at length accomplished.
At the foot of these hills flows the river Moskva, its stream winding through a meadow of the freshest green, and bearing on its surface large rafts of timber. On the other side of the river, and at a short distance, stands the Dentchei, surrounded by a lofty wall^ with battlements and turrets, and a broad ditch and draw- bridge : in the interior appears an immense court, around which are the various buildings of the monastery, and in the centre a large church, with a lofty and slender tower, sur- mounted by its golden dome.
But the city itself is the great at- traction : stationed at this distance, and at a commanding elevation, the traveller can form a better idea of its enormous extent. Almost the full outlines of its rampart on the south and west are seen, while the city it- self presents a confusion of buildings, without order or arrangement, stretch- ing into the dim and shadowy dis- tance. Distinct, however, amongst them all stands the Kremlin, dis- playing, as if ranged expressly to be viewed from this chosen spot, all its glories at once, its towers and walls white as the driven snow, and its mul- titude of golden cupolas, flashing and dazzling, even at this distance ; while the mighty Ivan stands forth, like the great guardian of the holy place ; a little further to the right are the cluster- ing towers of St. Basil, with their fantas- tic forms and gaudy colouring, thrown into bright relief by the long unbroken lines of white buildings which encircle them. Below these are the terraces, stretching far away along the banks of the Moskva, and the immense found- ling hospital, in strong contrast, by its modern simplicity and uniformity, with the strange structures which the caprice of man has reared around it, whose walls of green and red, and odd and various shapes defy description.
Joyous, however, as this splendid view appeared to us, while the sun shone bright, and all around looked smiling, there were hearts not far from us who felt that bitterness of spirit which tells them that hope is for them no more. On these hills is the great depot for prisoners whose sentence is Siberia; and here, if the traveller is desirous of making himself acquainted with the prison discipline -of Russia, more espe- cially in connection with those who are condemned to exile, he will, under the auspices of Dr. Haas, have an ex- cellent opportunity of doing so.
This gentleman has earned for him- self the appellation of the Russian Howard, and we may truly say that
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EOUTE 94, — THE RTADI.
565
we have never seen benevolence car- ried so far, nor gratitude so deeply ex- pressed, as with reference to him ; his whole life and fortune have, after the example of our English philanthropist, been spent in attempting to mitigate the horrors of a prison and to reform its inmates. At his own cost, and from his own resources, he has esta- blished and maintains an excellent hospital attached to the prison ; and, in short, his self-sacrifice is so great that he has restricted himself almost to poverty to carry out his principles of humanity. His appearance in the prison is the signal for tumultuous joy, and the prisoners crowd round him and load him with blessings for his care and attention. The city should be re-entered by the Warsaw Grate.
THE MARKET-PLACES.
In Moscow there are markets in every part of the city, but its chief commerce is centered in the Kitai Go- rod, where is the Gostinnoi Dvor and the Riadi (rows of shops). The former, after that of Nijni, is the largest in Russia. It is a colossal building of three stories, and three rows of pillars and shops stand one above another, connected by countless passages and steps. In these courts and galleries there is, during the whole year, a continual fair, and hither the tide of commerce flows from the Baltic, the Black Sea, the Levant, Western Europe, Siberia, China, and Tartary. The mass of the promenaders and pur- chasers are Russian, and bearded ; but the black-robed Persian, with his pointed lambskin cap, and the silken- clad Bokharian may be distinguished in the crowd ; the most considerable merchants, who trade here by whole- sale, are upwards of 1000 in number.
THE RIADI.
This is an open space of ground occupied by narrow streets of shops cutting each other at right angles,
and covered with roofs of various heights, those forming the outward fronts rising to the elevation of two or three stories, while those in the interior seldom comprise more than the shop on the level of the street itself. The various traders occupying this city of booths are grouped together according to their respective callings and dealings, — a practice which is par- tially followed even in the present time in several parts of Europe. In rainy weather the mud in the streets of the Riadi renders walking unpleasant ; but the stranger will scarcely heed the inconvenience, in the bustle and eager chaffering which prevails.
Notwithstanding his lust for gain, the Russian merchant and trader can- not carry on his business with the phlegm almost always seen in the Eng- lish banker or shopkeeper. The merchants of the Riadi make their bargains in the midst of praying, tea- drinking, and draughts, laughing and gossiping ; and foot-ball is their favour- ite game in the passages between the shops. Their appetites are also won- derfully keen, and there are as many sellers of edibles here as there are cus- tomers, with everything necessary for breakfast ready prepared, including plates, and knives and forks. The jewellers' shops are amongst the most attractive, though they fall short of those in England and France ; the chief articles for sale are the vessels used in the celebration of the mass — saints in- laid or set in silver, censors, &c. The Kazan-work, gold, figures, inlaid on silver cups and vases, is well executed. There is a stone sold by these jewellers called the Siberian diamond, resembling rock crystal, but taking a higher polish. It has a good effect when set in gold. The fur shops are worthy attention, but the articles are dear. A dark sable pelisse costs from 125^. to 170^.
The art of dressing skins in Russia is however so far superior to that of any other country, that Russians who purchase their schoohas abroad invari»
C 0
566
ROUTE 94. — THE KIADI.
Sect. V.
ably have them re-dressed on their re- turn.
Here may be seen the money- changer surrounded by heaps of coin ; he is generally one of the children of Israel; and though not distinguished by his beard, for his Russian or Tartar neighbours can boast of equally curly and flowing decorations of the chin, there is no mistaking the delicate fea- tures and quick anxious eye of the Jew. The merchandise is arranged here as elsewhere in masses, not promiscuously ; a range of thirty shops for paper, an- other range for spices, a third for orna- mental articles, a fourth for pictures of saints. In this last article, as may be expected in Moscow the holy, a very large trade is driven. Here are to be found pictures for every place and occasion ; for halls, bedchambers, churches, private chapels, coffee-houses, and ships ; big ones for the merchant who likes a large foundation for his faith ; small ones for the palaces of the great, where they are half hidden be- hind the curtains. Among these pic- tures may be seen some copies of Roman Catholic saints ; gloriously cari- catured, it is true, by Russian artists, but honoured by the Russian traders. Besides the pictures, all sorts of sacred utensils are exposed for sale, great silver candlesticks, lamps of all sizes, crosses, and amulets. " The most strik- ing objects to foreigners are the nuptial crowns that are placed on the heads of the enamoured pair when they are be- trothed in the church. These crowns are the strangest-looking things that were ever seen, consisting of a multi- tude of silver leaves, flowers, ears of corn, &c., which are hung with every- thing that can be thought of that glit- ters at little cost — stars of gilt foil, cut glass, false stones, and a thousand other things."
The shops of the dealers in wax- lights also occupy a great space in the Riadi. The population of Moscow use at least three times as many votive tapers in honour of their saints as the
inhabitants of St. Petersburgh ; and in the numerous churches of the former city many a ton of wax is consumed for pious purposes. The bees of the Ukraine and Little Russia furnish the greater part of this commodity. The whole range of shops is adorned with pictures of saints nailed to the beams, with lamps burning before them, sing- ing birds in cages, and whole flights of pigeons, which nestle under the eaves of the shops, and are fed by the owners with a sacred feeling that they are the emblems of the Holy Ghost. No lan- guage can convey an adequate idea of the noise and pertinacity of the traders of the Riadi : no passer by, particularly a foreigner, is spared ; not content with calling to you, they, in true Monmouth Street style, follow and pull you by the sleeve, commending their wares with their mouths close to the travel- ler's very ear, and, unless on his guard, the chances are that he will be ushered, almost without his consent, into a magazine redolent with no very choice odours, and find himself in contact with individuals whose proximity is anything but agreeable. But the whole scene in the Riadi is so novel, and so entirely unlike anything in Western Europe, that, despite the fatigue and dirt, we strayed from street to street, until we had visited every part of the bazaar, and not a day elapsed that we did not, when it was practicable, ram- ble through its dim and thickly crowded passages. Some time before sunset every door is locked, barred, and sealed, and every man's goods are left under the care of the saint over the door, till the following day. The patron saint of all true Russians is St. Nicholas; and never was saint more devoutly worshipped, both practically and devo- tionally, than he is by his bearded votaries. His picture, blazing in red and gold, is suspended in every shop, and in almost every room. A myste- rious connection subsists, in some way or other, between this saint and all seals, which are supposed to be under
Russia.
ROUTE 94. — THE WINTER MARKET.
567
his especial protection ; to break a seal is to offend the saint, hence a shop with very valuable contents is in per- fect safety with a seal on the door : nor is there, it is affirmed, a single ex- ample on record in which a Russian has dared to violate the protection of the tutelar saint. It is true, however, that the law which makes it felony, with Siberia in prospect, to break open a seal, may have an influence equal to that of the saint. The Jew and the Tartar, being unbelievers, have, of course, very little respect for the invi- sible protection of St. Nicholas, and, accordingly, bar and bolt, as elsewhere.
THE SECOND-HAND MARKETS.
These are numerous in Moscow ; the largest is along the wall of the Kitai Grorod, extending from one gate to the other. The booths next the wall in this broad street are devoted to anti- quities in the shape of old clothes, old gold and silver thread, and old books, black with age and use, and dog's- eared at every page. " Opposite these are the chandlers and picture-dealers ; the latter drive a thriving trade. These pictures are all, more orless, of a religious or my thological nature, and represent the most celebrated occurrences, from the creation down to the last new miracle of recent times, all so palpably depicted in the brightest red, green, and yellow, that the most stiff-necked infidel in the world must needs believe. The histo- rical subjects are chiefly taken from the Babylonian, Macedonian, and Greek histories.
In the choice of religious ones, it would seem as if the artists thought the kingdom of the devil was much larger than that of the angels, for che- rubim and seraphim are not met with half so often as death, the devil, and his adjutant (Grospodin Straptshik). Many of these pictures are not without wit, and will raise a smile on the coun- tenance of the most sulky traveller. Amongst them may be cited the De- neshnoi diavol (the gold devil). This
worthy, painted blue, is seen hovering over the world, and from hands, feet, mouth, and nose, gold is falling in abun- dance, and golden ducats creeping like vermin from under his hair ; behind him is Grospodin Straptshik, mounted on a yellow griffin, which he is flogging with Mercury's wand. On the ground are seen men sprawling to catch the golden shower ; one of them is a baker, who has tied a rope round the enemy, and is pulling the fiend to him ; a shoe- maker has a thread round his great toe ; an hotel-keeper has piled up all his bar- rels about him, into which the gold runs at one end and the wine out at the other, yet, thirstier than his guests, he holds up a glass to catch the gold that is falling sideways. A priest is standing on the first step of his pulpit, one hand held out in a preaching attitude, while the other, holding a mitre, is extended to catch part of the golden shower : near him is a church chalice, with a mighty ray of the precious metal streaming into it. The artist stands afar off, where none of the shower reaches him." Such pictorial satires issue in abundance from every humble workshop in Moscow — studios we can- not call them. In the middle of this street are tables with all kinds of eat- ables, and, on either side, a perambu- lating crowd of dirty, bearded, caftaned or sheepskinned individuals, who bawl and bargain with elephantine lungs ; the most striking amongst these are the dealers in cast-off female attire, who trail about with them the wardrobes of a dozen maid-servants — on one shoulder a huge bundle of lace is pinned, on the other twenty ells of ribbon, and round their bodies are wrapped a series of under clothings, while shawls and gowns, tied in bundles, hang round their necks, and swing about in all directions, the crowning feature being a pile of hats, one above another, on their heads.
THE WINTER MARKET.
Should the traveller be at Moscow 0 0 2
568
EOUTE 94. TEA HOUSES.
Sect. V.
during this season, he should visit this market.
Immediately after the frost has fairly- set in, an indiscriminate slaughter of live stock of all kinds commences. The car- case is exposed at once to the cold air, and frozen, without being previously allowed to become cold : when wanted for use, it is immersed in water for a few minutes, and after being thus thawed the meat may be used, but it has not the freshness and flavour as if just killed; when once thawed, it must be cooked without delay : if it has been allowed to cool before it is frozen, although no difference is perceptible while in its frozen state, immediately on being thawed the meat turns black, and is totally unfit for use : and the same result ensues upon the frost break- ing up in the spring. But it certainly is a good expedient, not only to save the expense of keeping the animals so many months, but to have their flesh at any moment fresh, while its icy hardness is an effectual protection against the injuries it might otherwise sustain, in being conveyed from one ex- tremity of the country to the other. Early in the winter the first great frozen market is held in all the large cities, and all prudent housekeepers lay in as ample a supply of provisions as their means will enable them. Mer- chants and provisions then crowd to Moscow from all quarters of the em- pire. The fish of the White Sea and the great northern lakes are piled in huge heaps in the streets, side by side with the frozen oxen from the steppes of the Crimea, the sheep from the shores of the Caspian, and the deer from the banks of the Jenisei and Irtish. The number of persons employed in this traffic is enormous, and the entire interruption to it, caused by the occu- pation of Moscow by the French in 1812, just at the time of the great mar ket, contributed not a little to increase the miseries of war in that devoted city.
On one or two occasions a sudden break of the frost, after a week or fort-
night's continuance, when immense quaiitities of frozen provisions have been thawed on their way to the mar- kets, has caused not only great loss to the merchants, but serious inconveni- ence to the inhabitants of the large cities, who, relying on this regular sup- ply, make no other preparation for their wants, and are actually in danger of starvation, even from a delay of a week or ten days.
TEA HOUSES.
No traveller should quit Moscow without visiting one of the immense tea houses. The largest of these is situated close to the Kitai Grorod, and near the courts of justice. Hither repair the traders of all classes, creeds, and nations, to settle their various bargains with copious libations of tchai, which they always drink out of large glass goblets, frequently suck- ing it in through a lump of sugar which they hold in their mouths. At the Troitzka Traktir about 14 lbs. of tea are consumed daily, which re- quires about 6 tons of water. A per- son who enters a tea house, and calls for a portion of tea, is entitled to have as much hot water as he pleases, and it is quite wonderful how many cups a Russian will drink. Some of them will remain half a day over one pot of tea, which he has had refilled perhaps a dozen times ; others again drink deep of the sparkling champagne of the Crimea ; while kvass, vodkee, sbeteen, and beer have each their respective votaries. Smoking is by no means so common with the lower classes in Russia as in the more southern parts of Europe ; but in the tea houses there are always to be found a few inveterate smokers. The waiters generally light the long slender pipe of cherry wood themselves, and, having duly puffed and kindled the fragrant weed, transfer it to the bearded visitor. It is difficult at first for the stranger to imagine how so many attend- ants are required in a Russian tea house, or traktir, until he sees how much attend-
Russia.
KOUTE 94. — THE MOSQUE.
569
ance the Russian public requires. Not only must these pipes be cleaned, filled, lighted, and put into the mouths of the guests, but some will have their tea poured out, and their cutlets and steaks cut into small pieces for them. These waiters are all dressed in white panta- loons, white shirts or jackets, and white girdles to bind all together — a very- good costume as long as it remains pure and undefiled.
THE ENGLISH CHAPEL.
There is an English place of worship at Moscow, connected with that of the factory at St. Petersburgh. It is a plain substantial building, neatly fitted up and situated in the TchernichefFskoi Pereu- lok. The clergyman's house is attached to it, and those who, like ourselves, may have the good fortune to make the ac- quaintance of the present incumbent, will find both pleasure and profit in meeting such a person so far from home. In winter the congregation is a large one, being for the most part composed of tutors and governesses in the Rus- sian families in and around Moscow, and of the artizans in the manufac- tories. The morning service com- mences at 11 A.M. ; in the winter there is a second service at 6^ p.m.
THE MOSQUE.
On the further side of the stone bridge, going towards Tartar Street, a part of the city is reached where the houses are particularly small and low, and the courts and gardens all unusu- ally large. In this quarter stands the humble building erected to the honour of Allah, whose priests deal in dress- ing gowns. A former mosque met, in 1812, with the same fate from the fire in which so many Russian churches shared, and the flock were long unable to get together the necessary funds for a new temple, till about twelve years ago, when a wealthy Tartar erected the walls that are now standing. It is not even whitewashed within, and so totally without decoration that it must
be called uncomfortably simple. It is incomprehensible that it has not yet occurred to any wealthy Russian here to perform the really Christian work of putting the temple of these poor Mo- hammedans into decent condition. On the contrary, those who should be most imbued with Christian principles have even robbed them. The only point on which these poor people could not re- sist the inclination to incur expense was for the carpets that cover the floor of their mosque — these are, with one exception, of Russian fabric, and this one came from Egypt by Constantinople, and cost them 3000 rubles : it had a fel- low equally beautiful, which some Rus- sians stole. The service and religious ceremonies of the Tartars take place on their Sabbath (Friday), and many persons influenced by curiosity go and see them. The first ceremonial con- sists in the ascent of the chief priest to the roof of the building, by means of a ladder placed on the outside, dressed in his long flowing robes of the brightest and gayest colours. Here, having secured his footing on this somewhat perilous pulpit, the reverend mullah proceeds with great deliberation to elevate his lower garments to his waist, and then seating himself cross-legged on the parapet, commences the shrill mono- tonous invitation to the faithful to enter the house of prayer, which he continues to pour forth until all have quitted the open area in front of the church. Descending again by the same precarious pathway, he moves slowly between the worshippers, rajjged in two long parallel lines, to the altar, and be- gins a low chant in measured cadence, to which the faithful respond at inter- vals, bowing incessantly, with their faces turned to the east. On a sudden the ministering priest gives a sharp shrill cry, and again the whole congre- gation form two parallel lines, facing each other; the cry is repeated, and every head is bent forward, and, as the holy call peals forth fast and frequent, each stubborn back is bowed in gradual
570
EOUTE 94. THE UNIVERSITY OF MOSCOW. Sect. V.
humiliation, until every head touches the floor, and the natural order of hu- manity is absolutely reversed. A simi- lar succession of sounds and correspond- ing movements restores again the com- mon order of things, and the faithful disperse once more to their traffic and merchandise. What the precise re- ligion of these Tartars is, we know not; their holy city is in the east, but they certainly are not followers of Mahomet, for the juice of the grape is not for- bidden by their law. The chief trade of the Tartars of Moscow is in shawls, caps, and Asiatic dressing gowns. Their dress is picturesque, and consists of a flowing robe of dark cloth, bound round the waist by a red shawl, boots of the embroidered leather of Kazan, and over these thick slippers, which, in true East- ern fashion, they leave outside the door of the house they are about to enter. Their heads are shaved, and covered by a cap of gold tissue, over which, Avhen in the street, they wear a large cap of leather, trimmed with fur. They are capital hands at a bargain, and will sometimes take the fourth of the sum they ask.
THE UNIVERSITY OP MOSCOW.
This University was established in 1755 ; the number of students is about nine hundred. The scientific collec- tions are not to be compared with those of other European countries, al- though there are some objects worthy of notice. In the collection of miner- alogy is a Siberian emerald, three inches long, and two thick. In the zoological, a bouquet of flowers formed of fifty colihris, arranged in that form, the work of one of the subordinates of the institution, but scarcely an appro- priate object in a scientific collection.
Much more worthy of notice are the anatomical cabinet of Loder and the -microscopic preparations of Lieberkuhn. This collection is parti- cularly rich in human hearts, of which there are a great number, all spitted on needles. There is also a camel's
stomach extended to its natural extent, with all its cells and subdivisions so arranged that every corner in which the food was retained till perfectly dis- solved can be as exactly noted as if the spectator were to put his hand into the very body of the animal. There is also a stocking, taken from the stomach of a cow, changed into a large firm mass, without losing the appear- ance of the web ; the remains of a billiard ball, from the stomach of a dog, where, within four-and-twenty hours, it had diminished to a fifth of the original size ; a pair of scissors, a knife, and a fork, from the stomach of a man, where they had been bent and twisted as if beaten by the hammer of a smith. In this stomach were like- wise found 10 lbs. weight of equally in- digestible substances. In the same case with these stomachers is the in- strument used by Peter the Great for drawing teeth. Kohl remarks that it is a little, rough, short instrument, something like that used by smiths to pick locks. Some of Lieberkuhn's pre- parations are quite unique of their kind. Amongst other things are some fine injections of the minutest vessels of the human body. Every injection is inclosed with a microscope of its own, through the glasses of which the most interesting and wonderful view is afforded into the depths and sinuosities of a bit of fat, or of a portion of skin. In one of the microscopes the object is the pores of a square line of a human gall-bladder : into the most delicate ar- terial divisions and fibres, imperceptible to the naked eye, Lieberkuhn injected some fluid so subtile that every thread is as perceptible as those in a fine piece of embroidery. An intellect like that of the German anatomist, and hands so delicate, are not often met with ; it is much to be lamented that the recipe for the preparation of the red material used by him in his injections should have died with him.
The collection of human skeletons is very complete ; there are not less than
Russia.
ROUTE 94. SUMMARY.
571
forty specimens, varying from the em- bryo, five inches long, to the full de- velopement of the organization. They are arranged on stages in the hall, which contains many other things cal- culated to awaken the zeal of a former professor of the University of Kazan, who, when he heard of the godless work carried on by the anatomists in the institution under his charge, ordered an immediate stop to be put to it, caused all the human remains of bones and skeletons to be collected, and then had them buried.
SUMMARY.
We believe that an account has now been given of every church, bazaar, hospital, and public building, requiring a particular description. There remain, however, a few subjects to which the travellers attention may be drawn. Amongst these should be mentioned the Zigani, or Russian gypsies, whose origin, language, and habits have been so admirably described by the energetic, unselfish, and inimitable Borrow. In speaking of the Russian gypsies, he re- marks that " those of Moscow must not be passed over in silence, for the station to which they have attained in society, in that most remarkable of cities, is so far above the sphere in which the remainder of their race pass their lives, that it may be considered as a pheno- menon in gypsy history, and, on that account, is entitled to particular notice. To the power of song alone this pheno- menon is to be attributed. From time immemorial the female gypsies of Mos- cow have been much addicted to the vocal art, and bands or quires of them have sung for pay in the halls of the nobility, or upon the boards of the theatre. Some first-rate songsters have been produced amongst them, whose merits have been acknowledged by the most fastidious foreign critics. Per- haps the highest compliment ever paid to a songster was paid by Catalan! her- self to one of these daughters of Roma.
It is well known throughout Russia that the celebrated Italian was so en- chanted with the voice of a Moscow gypsy (who, after the former had dis- played her noble talent before a splen- did audience in the old Russian capi- tal, stepped forward and poured forth one of her national strains), that she tore from her own shoulders a shawl of Cashmere, which had been presented to her by the Pope, and, embracing the gypsy, insisted on her accepting this splendid gift, saying ^' that it had been intended for the matchless song- ster, which she now perceived she was not." These gypsies have a leader, under whose direction all engagements are conducted, and he is said to have refused an offer of 500,000 rubles to go with his band to Paris for one year, a proof what their gains must be at home, for this sum would have been about 1000^. for each individual. It must not, of course, be sup- posed that the generality of these gypsy vocalists are like the one here described — the majority follow the oc- cupation, but are very bad singers; many of them obtain a livelihood by singing and dancing at taverns, on the racecourse : at the fairs of Nijni and Smolensk they also muster in great strength. Their favourite place of resort in the summer is Ma- rina Rotze, a species of guinguette, about two versts from Moscow ; their songs are in Russian and their own dialect. In the provincial towns they follow the profession for which they are so admirably fitted by education, horse- dealing and hocussing; but the vast majority traverse the coimtry in large bands, and follow a pastoral life, de- pending on the chase and their herds of cattle for subsistence. Borrow states that it is not uncommon to find them encamped in the midst of the snow in slight canvas tents, when the temperature is twenty-five or thirty degrees below the freezing point of Reaumur. Their personal attractions are sometimes considerable; and on
572
EOUTE 94. SUMMAEY.
Sect. V.
great occasions they are arrayed in splendid dresses, and sparkle with jewels. "We believe that the gypsies are, by a late ukase, invited to re- nounce their wandering habits, and that all found without passports are obliged to serve in the dockyards or in the army.
In walking through the streets of Moscow, particularly in the Grostinnoi Dvor, and the market-places, the tra- veller will not fail to remark, in the tradesmen's hands, a small oblong frame of wood, between the sides of which are six or seven parallel wires, on which are strung balls of various colours. This ma- chine is called a schot, and is used by every Russian for the purposes of calcula- tion; the rapidity with which the mer- chant goes through the four rules of arithmetic with this simple contrivance is perfectly surprising. There are usually ten balls on each row ; those in tlie lowest being taken as units, the next as tens, the third as hundreds, and so on. Having only two kinds of coins, the ruble and the kopek, there is little or no difficulty, after a very slight observation of the process adopted, in using this machine. Thus, supposing you have to pay 8 rubles, 50 kopeks, and you give a note for 25 rubles, the Russian first puts all the balls to the right hand side of his frame, and then, as each ruble. is 100 kopeks, he puts 5 balls on the third row over to the left side, for the 5 rubles, and 2 balls on the row next above, for the 20 rubles ; thus repre- senting, in a manner familiar to his own mind, the real value of the note. To effect the subtraction of 85 rubles, he will first put back one ball on the third or ruble row, and put over 10 balls on the second row, where each ball represents 10 kopeks, and then remove 5 of these, leaving the remain- ing 5 to show that 50 kopeks remain in that row ; after removing the 4 remaining rubles in the row above, he will bring down 1 ball from the row where each one designates 10 rubles,
and bring over to the left side of the row below that 10 balls, each repre- senting a single ruble ; having re- moved from these the remaining 4 rubles to make up the 8 rubles, his machine shows the result to be 1 ball on the fourth line, 6 on the third, and 5 on the second, or 16 rubles, 50 kopeks. Of course, to persons in ge- neral, the simple calculation by the mind, particularly in so very obvious an instance as that here selected, would be much the easiest; but with these people, accustomed to this method from their infancy, the mind is not prepared to calculate ; and there is this advan- tage in the machine, that it is almost impossible to be in error. The inge- nuity and dexterity of the Russian peasant and carpenter with his hatchet is also extremely remarkable, and worthy of observation.
If the traveller is in Moscow during the summer, he should attend the races, for it is an occasion which brings the population together, and there is, conse- quently, something nov el and interesting to be seen. The race-course is situated in the neighbourhood of the Donskoi Convent, and, with the assistance of English jockeys, there is frequently a good race. Droshky races may also be seen here, and near the Peterskoi Gar- dens, the horses trot for government prizes ; but these matches have no great charm to an Englishman, for they appear dull and tame after the displays at Newmarket and Doncaster : the show, however, is worth seeing for once, particularly to the sporting man, who should observe with attention the racing droshky, harness, breed of the horses, &c. Bitshok, the best trotter in Russia, is said to have accomplished 20 miles within the hour.
As in amusements, so in their reli- gion, no stranger, who wishes to be- come acquainted with the spirit of the Russian people should omit to be pre- sent at the mass celebrated on Sun- days and holidays, when the sacrament is administered ; it is the chief act of
Russia.
KOUTE 94. — SUMMAKT.
573
divine service for fifty millions of the human race, and much will be seen at this ceremony which is characteristic of the people. In the commencement, a gigantic diaJcon, with a stentorian voice, announces that the bread is breaking in the name of our Lord, the Emperor, the state, the military, &c. Then the Bible, weighing many pounds, is brought out, and a lesson is read, the reader being frequently interrupted by the choir, who chant, in most me- lodious tones, the words, '' Gospodi jpomiUd " (Lord have mercy). Dur- ing this, the high priest is perceived through the incense which is burning behind the Ikonostast, walking to and fro in his priestly garments, and, the reading of the chapter over, the door of the sanctuary is opened and the altar displayed. At the same moment, the side doors are thrown back, and the whole body of officiating priests come forth, the high priest bearing a silver chalice, and followed by another with a salver on his head — two others bear the bread and wine. The prayer for the Emperor is then said, and the priests return to the sanctuary and deposit the elements on the altar, when the transubstantiation takes place, the priest kneeling, and reading many prayers. In the meantime, the gigantic diaJcon calls out with a loud voice, " Depart, ye unbelieving, that no infidel may remain in the church, we, believing faces (literally trans- lated), will then supplicate the Lord for His peace." Any Jew or Moham- medan, who may happen to be in the church, must now leave it. Many " Gospodi pomiluis " follow ; and when the diaTcons public, and the high priest's private prayer are ended, the latter advances solemnly and blesses the chalice containing the wine, by saying the word " VladiTc" which may be translated, " Rabbi, or Master, bless this vessel." The bread is subsequently shaken into the wine, and again both elements are blessed — the moment of this blessing is that of the transubstan-
tiation. In the same instant the priests prostrate themselves at the foot of the altar; the congregation make endless signs of the cross, and kiss the ground repeatedly ; and all the bells in the church burst forth at once, in order that the occurrence may likewise be known and solemnized beyond the church walls by those who cannot attend. The communicants then approach one after another, kneel three times, and hold their hands crossed upon their breasts. A morsel of bread, dipped in the wine, is put into the mouth of each with a small silver spoon ; the chalice is kissed, and, kneeling once more, they retire, and prayers and genuflections close the ceremony. The smallest babies com- municate, and the scene is then extra- ordinary, for they frequently refuse this, to them, unnatural food, while their mothers, fully impressed with a belief in the benefit they are to derive from it, endeavour in some cases to force it down their little throats.
The feasts and ceremonies of the Greek Church are very numerous, amongst them is that incomprehensible service of the Eastern Church so in- consistent with its general tendencies, " The Cursing of the Heretics ; " this takes place during March ; the " Bless- ing of the Waters " (or the Feast of Jordan), in the spring, furnishes the people with another spectacle, when " the secret gate " opens a passage from the Kremlin to the Moskwa; the "Blessing of the Fruit" in August; the ceremonies of Easter and Christmas. During the week after Easter, people are edified with a sight of the sacred paraphernalia kept in the Kremlin. They then gaze with devout admiration at the numer- ous vestments of the priests, the holy oil, and the relics of the saints. All these festivals are eminently national at Moscow. A visit to the Armenian Church there will enable the stranger to observe that form of Christian wor- ship.
If the traveller is in want of French books, English cloth, Swiss confection- 0 0 3
5T4
EOUTE 94. SUMMARY.
Sect. V.
ary, and olDJects of ornament and luxury, he must go to theKv^netzkoi. Mostj or Smith's Bridge. In the print- shops there it is easier to find views of London, Paris, Calcutta, and New- York, than of St. Petersburgh or Mos- cow. Lukmanoff's Magazine is also an agreeable lounge, and so is the flower-market at the foot of the Krem- lin. It is a repetition of what may be seen in spring in the hay-market of St. Petersburgh, but much prettier. In Moscow it has the appearance of a village in which every house stands in its own garden. Huts of painted wood are filled with cherry-trees in blossom, with roses of all kinds, and all such flowers as will not in winter bear exposure to the open air. Before the door of these huts sits the owner of these fragrant prisoners ; and around the mimic houses are little beds of flowers ; behind these are ranged the larger kinds of plants and bushes, in whose branches the birds sing and chirrup as in their native woods. A more agreeable stroll cannot be ima- gined than amongst these huts, to look at their odoriferous contents, and gossip with the gardeners about their plants. Flowers are very frequently hired by the Moscovites who are in the habit of giving dinner parties. The letting price of an orange-tree sometimes amounts to several rubles.
Of the various public promenades it may be said that the gardens of the Kremlin are to Moscow what those of the Tuileries are to Paris; and in these gardens the beau-monde of Mos- cow promenade in the fine spring evenings. At the foot of the wall, a number of artificial hills have been raised, where, on holidays, musicians are placed. These hills are hollowed out beneath, and supported by pillars, and the benches with which they are provided afford cool resting-places for the weary.
The Tver Boulevards, surrounding the Beloi Gorod, are not unpleasing, though less agreeable than the Alex-
ander Grarden. They are broad walks laid out with trees, shrubs, and par- terres, far more rural and pleasing than the formal lime avenues of Berlin, and they will be much handsomer some time hence, for at present the planta- tions are very young. The different boulevards round Beloi Grorod have an extent of seven versts, or about a mile. During the Easter week these boule- vards are greatly frequented by parties in their sledges, and the numerous booths give them all the appearance of a fair. In addition to these may be mentioned the Peterskoi Gardens, al- ready described, and the Summer Gar- dens of the Empress Elizabeth in the eastern suburb. These are very ex- tensive, but their beauties are in the sere and yellow leaf. The traveller shoiild on no account leave Moscow without having seen the Kremlin by moonlight. There are three clubs at Moscow, to which foreigners can obtain admission through a member. That called the English, originally established by the merchants of our nation, is a splendid establishment, well planned and skilfully directed in fact, like the clubs of other countries. Twice a week there is a tahle-d'-hote, at 3 rubles par ttte, which is well attended. The club of the no- bility is also a very handsome struc- ture, particularly the principal saloon, ornamented with pillars and a statue of Catherine II. : in the winter magnifi- cent balls are given in it ; and, during the carnival, morning masquerades with dancing ; these assemblies are attended by as many as 2000 persons, and the room is calculated to hold 3000.
Should the traveller desire to know what a Russian chateau is like, he may drive to that of Astanhina, three miles from Moscow, a seat of the Chereme- tieff family, one of the wealthiest in Russia. The dining hall is furnished in the Louis Quatorze style; and in the drawing-rooms are some good pic- tures, a Claude and a Rembrandt being the best. There are also some an-
Russia.
EOUTE 94. — THE TKOITZKA MONASTERY.
575
tiques; a Vulcan lays claim to some merit. These country seats bear the singular name of Moscow appurte- nances, because the habitations twenty- five miles round the city are considered as belonging to it. The great number of horses kept by the rich^ at a small cost, abridges the distance ; and many persons who spend the day at a dis- tant country seat enjoy at night the pleasures of the city. The " Allee des Peuples," outside the barrier, on the CheremetiefF estate, is a great ren- dezvous of the shopkeepers and mer- chants of Moscow. One of the prettiest and most picturesque places in the environs is Koonsova ; a drive to it, in the summer, will repay the traveller for his trouble. Moscow prides herself on her manufactures, and her intention never to take foreign manufactured goods ; that is to say, never to adopt the principles of free trade ; nor have, we believe, the Russian manufacturers altered their opinion since the itinerant apostle of that system visited them. The traveller will readily obtain access to the silk and cotton mills ; the ma- chinery is frequently under the care of Englishmen.
THE TROITZKA MONASTERY.
This monastery, which, next to that of Kief, is the most renowned and venerated in Russia, is distant from Moscow about sixty versts. The road, which is frequently crowded during the summer months by pilgrims from all parts of the empire, is far from good ; and the building destined for the re- ception of strangers, though connected with the monastery, is as destitute of accommodation as an ordinary post- house ; moreover, it is excessively in- fested by the traveller's worst enemies, and repose after the fatigues of his day's journey he must not expect. Troitzka, however, should be visited ; for to be at Moscow without going there would be as outrageous a dere- liction of a traveller's duty as to be at Naples and not go to Vesuvius ; or
to be at Constantinople and not see the Sweet Waters. At a spot about twenty versts from the monastery, a halt should be made at the cave and subterraneous passages of a religious recluse who has attained no small de- gree of celebrity, the work of exca- vating which was a self-inflicted pen- ance. To perform this labour of en- thusiastic zeal, the monk left his con- vent every evening, and, unassisted, is said to have completed his task, with the further miracle attached to the story, that he executed the super- human undertaking with an iron belt round his waist, so heavy that none of the pilgrims that pay their devotions at his shrine can lift it ; and yet the poor fellow died fearing that he had failed to secure his salvation. A monk is always in attendance with a torch to conduct the visitor through the la- byrinth of passages which the old an- chorite cleverly finished with masonry. A donation is usually dropped into the money-box on leaving.
The country round Troitzka is un- dulating ; over the low hills are scat- tered clumps of trees and habitations, and the town stands well on an emi- nence. In the centre of it, the cupolas and minarets of the nine churches of the monastery are seen from a dis- tance, radiant in gold and colours, like those of Moscow. The building is surrounded in its whole extent by an embattled wall, characterising it not only as a place of devotion, but like- wise as one of defence and refuge, which it often proved itself to be, in the most troubled times, to some of Russia's sovereigns, as well as nobles. There still remains a mile and a half of the walls, about thirty feet high, that resisted the attacks of the Polish invader, with many turrets at inter- vals ; and along and inside the whole are two covered galleries, in which the brave fraternity conducted their de- sperate defences in conjunction with their military coadjutors. Under these walls is a large space of open ground.
576
ROUTE 94. — THE TROITZKA MONASTERY.
Sect. V
whicli the traveller will find covered v^rith tents and other temporary erec- tions, for the use of the pilgrim mul- titude with which it is thronged. Amongst them are book-stalls, and tea and brandy booths ; shops for the sale of medals and pictures of Sergius and St. Nicholas, and their various miracles ; and stalls of fruit, vegetables, and butchers' meat, &c., &c. The crowd is composed of every class, age, and nation within the Russian domi- nions that recognise the efficacy of the shrine, and some who do not, in- cluding even the wandering gypsy, who, no doubt, finds many opportu- nities of plying his trade. The whole has the appearance of a fair, for the enjoyment of which the concourse of people might be supposed to have col- lected, until the bells of the churches disperse their mundane thoughts, and recall them to the object for which so many of them have travelled so far. On leaving the hostelrie, the morning after his arrival, from which, sooth to say, the traveller will be very glad to escape, he will cross the large place, and approach the gate in the monas- tery wall. Within the holy precincts is a long avenue, and dispersed with- out order or design, about the ample space, are the churches, all called cathe- drals, with their detached bell-towers, and chapels, and numbers of large buildings, utterly destitute of archi- tectural beauty, in which dwell the brethren of St. Sergius. In the prin- cipal cathedral repose the remains of that saint, the founder of the establish- ment, which, having been miraculously preserved from decay, were disinterred from the ruins after the Tartars had ravaged it, subsequently to the victory of Dmitri Ivanovitch. The convent was afterwards, with the assistance of the Tzars, rebuilt by the Patriarch Nicon ; and in 1421 his body was en- cased in a shrine, and is still believed to exercise miraculous powers. This is protected and enriched by columns and a canopy of silver, presented by
the Empress Anne ; and the whole is of dazzling splendour. Not far from this shrine is the tomb of Boris GodunofF, the usurper, who, after having procured the assassination of his royal pupil Dmitri, placed the crown of Muscovy on his own head at the death of the Tzar Feeder, his wife's brother, in 1598, and wore it till his own death, which took place in 1605. Some of his family also lie here ; and there are other tombs of note in the church. In the Archimandrites' house, and the palace of the Tzars, there is little to interest, except the library, which the monks rarelj'' show. As the history of this monastery is much interwoven with that of Russia itself, a slight sketch of it, and the life of its founder, will not be out of place. It was founded in 1338, by St. Sergius, the legendary account of whose birth and youth is one series of miraculous events, lead- ing to his assuming the sacerdotal cha- racter in his twenty-fourth year. Some of these seem to have been exaggera- tions, based on the life of the Baptist; for the simple biographer states .that, when his mother was enceinte, the child uttered such a cry, when she re- ceived the Communion, that it was heard all over the church. Also, that he knew the Catechism and Ten Com- mandments when he was born ; and that on fast days, when his mother ate too hearty a meal, he refused to suck. His father, a powerful Boyard of Ros- tof, was ruined by a Tartar invasion, and retired with his wife to a convent, when the saint and his brother took refuge in a forest, where they built a hut for Sergius's future residence, and a church that he dedicated to the Holy Trinity : after which the brother left the anchorite to shift for himself. His sanctity however soon became known, and he formed a community of twelve disciples, and thus laid the foundation of the establishment. Rich pilgrims, as well as poor, were attracted by the miracles he worked, and their dona- tions enabled the brotherhood to exer-
Ttussia.
ROUTE 94. — THE TROITZKA MONASTERY.
577
cise charity and hospitality ; and sub- sequently, under the direction of the Patriarch of Constantinople, it became a regularly organized monastery. One of the miracles wrought by St, Sergius, being historical, should be related. In the reign of the Grand Prince Dmitri Ivanovitch, the Khan Mamai having invaded his dominions, he repaired to the Troitzka to seek the counsel and intervention of Sergius ; both were granted ; he received the Eucharist, and, being joined by two pious and pugnacious monks, placed himself at the head of 400,000 men, with whom he crossed the Don, cutting down all the bridges as he passed them. Having reached their ground, in front of the Tartar army, one of the chiefs challenged the Monk Peresvet to single combat ; he accepted the chal- lenge, and both were killed ; the con- flict then became general, and the Grrand Prince, having had two horses killed under him, and fought on foot with a club, was escaping from the field, when the prayers of St. Sergius procured him the assistance of the ele- ments— a stormy wind, which had hitherto materially assisted the ene- my, suddenly changed, the Russians rallied, and the Tartars, fighting for life instead of victory, at length fled, including Mamai himself. But the carnage on the side of the Russians was very great ; and, when Dmitri was recovered from his wounds, his army numbered only 40,000 out of 400,000 men. His gratitude to St. Sergius was great, and he manifested it by giving to the monastery large grants of lands. St. Sergius died in 1391, at the age of seventy-eight. "When first selected superior of his twelve brethren, he was simple, self-denying, and la- borious; cut wood, fetched water, and made their bread and garments, in addition to his devotional exercises ; and these severe habits he continued to the last. As early as the fifteenth century, so much was the shrine be- lieved to have eiFected for the country
and the Tzars, that its riches had ac- cumulated to an enormous amount, and it then possessed 100,000 peasants. For many years the monks remained in peaceful possession of the wealth with which it had been so richly en- dowed ; but in 1609 it was besieged by the Poles, under Sapieha and Li- poifsky, who, no doubt, reckoned upon obtaining a considerable booty ; they were, however, disappointed, and, after a siege of sixteen months, were obliged to retire from the hopeless contest, having arrived somewhat late at the conclusion that the walls were spe- cially protected by the Divine power. On this memorable occasion, the monks not only fought with the greatest cou- rage, but also melted down much of the precious metals which adorned their churches, in order to pay the troops who assisted them in defending their altars and the shrine of their patron saint. Subsequently, when the Poles M'ere in possession of Moscow, they failed not to render assistance to their countrymen. Three years after this the monastery sustained another siege, but the enemy were repulsed as before, and were obliged to abandon the enter- prise. The most interesting fact, how- ever, connected with the history of the Troitzka, is, that it was the place of refuge of Peter the Grreat, and his brother John, when they fled there to save themselves from an insurrection of the Strelitzes. The Tzar, at a later period of his life, did not fail to evince his admiration for the saint, whose pic- ture, from the monastery, he is said to have carried with him when he took the field against the Swedes. The riches of the Troitzka, at the present time, are great in precious stones, shrines of the precious metals, and sacerdotal robes ; but the revenues were greatly reduced by Catherine II., who confiscated nearly the whole of their lands. The annual income de- rived from the property of the esta- blishment, and the offerings of pil- grims, now amounts to about 12,000^.
578
ROUTE 95. ST. PETERSBURGH TO BERLIN. Sect. V.
a year. The most interesting relics are the wooden cup and coarse woollen robe of the founder ; these are shown in the Treasury, and are much more highly esteemed by the pilgrims than the rich vestments of those who suc- ceeded him. The Russians say that, when the plague was in Moscow, at the close of the eighteenth century, not a human being was attacked within the walls of the Troitzka; and again, during the cholera, the disease, though raging in the neighbouring towns of Vladimir and Yaroslaff, stopped at a little distance from the holy place. Mons. de Custine, speaking of this celebrated spot, remarks, in the true spirit of a trooper of the Grande Armee, " what a rich booty this would have been for his countrymen." No doubt it would; and there can be as little doubt that they would have dropped their sacri- legious plunder on the banks of the Beresina.
ROUTE 95.
ST. PETERSBURGH TO BERLIN, BY DOR- PAT, RIGA, AND TAUROGGEN, ON THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER.
ST.PETERSBURGHto^<re?jia,17versts.
Kipen, 23 1 . There are post-houses throughout Esthonia and Livonia, That of Kipen is described by the authoress of " Letters from the Baltic" as a fine building outwardly, but other- wise a mere whitened sepulchre. Ger- man is almost universally spoken.
Kashovo, 19.
TcMerkovitz, 21.
Oi?o/^^•, 221.
Jamhnrg, 15. This is a rambling town, with barracks. The Luga is crossed here by a ferry ; the banks of the river are pretty, though desolate, with high rocks and a scanty vegeta- tion creeping amongst them. A hill of unusual steepness is ascended beyond this, whence, as far as Narva, is one uninterrupted plain.
Narva, 204. Hotel de St. Peters-
burgh. Here the Narova is crossed, and the traveller enters Esthonia. Popula- tion, 5500.
The town of Narva is very German in its character; and though it can boast a very eventful history of sieges, bombardments, battles, and blockades, as a frontier town, in times gone by, it is no longer the prosperous place it was wont to be. The foundation of St. Petersburgh ruined its trade, whereas formerly its harbour contained a forest of masts. The Narova, in its course to the sea from the Lake Peipus, divides it in two parts. The Germans dwell within the wall of the old town on the right bank, the Russians round the ruins of the old fortress of Ivangorod.
It was near Narva, and in 1700, that Charles XII., then a lad of seven- teen, fought his celebrated battle against the Russians. The king at- tacked the ill-disciplined forces of the enemy, amounting to 60,000, with only 8000 men, fatigued by a long march, and entirely routed them, officers, ar- tillery, and stores all falling into his hands. " I know well," said Peter the Great, when he heard of the defeat of his troops, " that the Swedes will long be superior, but they will at length teach us to vanquish them." And so it turned out ; for the Tzar, five years afterwards, closed a series of victories by taking Narva by storm. On this occasion he exhibited unusual humanity, by preventing the excesses of his sol- diers. Having with his own hand killed two of them who had dis- obeyed his orders, he repaired to the inn where the citizens had taken refuge, and, laying his sword on the table, said to the terrified Esthonians, " It is not with the blood of the inhabitants that this sword is stained, but with that of my subjects, which I have shed to save your lives."
The course of the Narova is rocky, and forms some pretty falls, though the height is not above 15 or 20 feet; the best is about a verst from Narva, in the western arm of the river, which there
Russia.
EOUTE 95. DORP AT.
579
incloses a small island. Over the fall is a picturesque bridge.
The Narova divides itself into two arms, each of which forms a separate waterfall, and they afterwards unite again. The island between the two arms of the river, which is 500 paces broad, is laid out in pretty gardens, trees, and houses, as are the margins of the waterfalls themselves. The view here in summer is very beautiful ; the western fall, at a little distance from w^hich a bridge leads to the island, is the finest ; more water falls in the eastern one, but it cannot be approached as near as the other.
Waivara, 22. Not far from Waivara the road passes the north-western point of the Lake Peipus, and runs along its low shore to Kleinpungern. This lake is about 50 miles long from north to south, and has some beautiful islands on it ; it is full offish, and very stormy and dangerous.
Tschudeli, 17|.
Lewe, 12,
Kleiwpungem, 21. Here Livonia is entered.
Rama Pungern, 26J.
Nainal, 14. On the north-west shore of the Peipus Lake,
Torma, 25|. The taraJcan (cock- chafer) is not uncommon in some of the post-houses on this road. Erman states that the country people near here call them Prussaki, or Prussians, because they first showed themselves on the retreat of the Russians from Prussia at the end of the Seven Years' War.
I99(^fe'>% 231.
DoRPAT, 23. Hotel de St. Peters- burgh, Hotel de Londres. Population, 14,000. The history of this town is a stirring and stormy one. The Russians from the east, the Teutonic knights from the west, the quarrels of both with the aboriginal Esthonians, and the bloody wars between the Russians, Swedes, and Poles, more than once laid it in ashes. Its University was founded by Gustavus Adolphus in 1632, the year of his death, and, after various
vicissitudes, it took refuge in Sweden, to avoid the Russian army in 1710. Professors, students, libraries, museums — all departed ; and returned only un- der the auspices of the Emperor Alex- ander in 1802. It now contains 45 professors, and 600 or more students, and has a high reputation in Russia.
Among the professors one name may be cited of great fame, that of Struve, whose astronomical labours have pro- cured him a well-earned reputation throughout Europe. The observatory on the Domberg, from the character of the work done there, is ranked among the most celebrated institutions in this branch of science, and well worthy of being seen. Here is a great refracting telescope, the work of Frauenhofer, mounted in such a manner that the iron roof, revolving round a vertical line, affords complete protection from the weather without hindering the view of any point in the heavens. This was designed and constructed by Mr. Parrot, and so beautifully is it executed that one hand is enough to impel and guide the machinery which moves the tele- scope and roof. The Emperor Alex- ander presented the telescope to the University. Struve is now at the head of the observatory near Petersburgh, and the telescope which he now directs towards the heavens is on a far more gigantic scale than his old friend of Dorpat. Some of the apparatus which was used in measuring a portion of the meridian of Dorpat is to be seen here. The library has a very curious locality, being situated in the ruins of the old Dom; the views from hence are very fine. The broad crown of the hill, adorned by numerous avenues of trees, is called Cathedral Place; the ruins of a church, destroyed in 1775, by a fire which consumed nearly the whole town, explains the origin of this name. On the Domberg are likewise the Schools of Anatomy and Natural History, the museums, &c. The philo- sophical instruments are remarkable from their having been made for the
580
EOUTE 95. — DOEPAT.
Sect. V.
most part by a Russian artisan of the name of Samoiloff. Of all the collec- tions of the University, that of the Botanical Grarden is the most com- plete ; it contains more than 18,000 plants, some of which are not to be found in the other botanical gardens of Europe. Dorpat, like Keval, had once its corps of Schwarzen Haupter, or " association of citizens for the defence of the city ;" it is now a mere convivial club. Among its treasures is a magnifi- cent goblet of glass and gold, two feet high, on the side of which are engraved a beetle, a humming-bird, and a butter- fly. Whoever could only drink to the beetle was fined two bottles, whoever reached the humming-bird only one, and he whose draught attained as deep as the butterfly was exempt from fine. With the exception of the Dom no ves- tige remains at Dorpat of the ancient Gothic nucleus of the town ; all is new. The fortifications have, as at Frankfort and Hamburgh, been converted into agreeable promenades. A granite bridge over the Embach, which is na- vigable up to Dorpat, adds not a little to the appearance of the town.
Uddern, 26.
Kaikaz-Loivenhoff, 24 1.
Teilitz, 22|. ^ Wall; lOf. At Walk the Estho- nian language takes the place of the Lithuanian. This small town was for- merly a busy little place, but the cow- herds now cut the grass in the streets.
The only thing which can attract the traveller's attention on the road between Dorpat and Walk is Schloss Ringen, formerly one of the largest castles in Livonia, but now a picturesque ruin. These ruins of Ringen are a perpetual monument of the ferocious feuds be- tween two neighbouring noblemen, the Lord of Ringen and the Lord of Odempa. An old family quarrel be- tween them had been heightened by various personal insults into the dead- liest mutual hatred. Notwithstanding this, they sometimes, when their own interests demanded it, visited and
entertained one another with out ward civility. One day the Lord of Ringen invited the Lord of Odempa to a banquet. The latter came, enjoyed the feast much, and was particularly pleased with one costly dish, which his host strongly recommended to him, so much so that he wished to know what it was made of, but this was a secret, said the Lord of Ringen. As the visitor was returning to Odempa, how- ever, a servant was sent after him, with a message, that if he remembered what the Persian king, Astyages, son of Cyaxares, served up to his servant, Harpagus, he would know how the delicate dish which had pleased him so much was composed. The horror- struck father flew home to seek his only little son, but sought him in vain, the Lord of Ringen had served up to him for dinner his own son's heart and brains.
The infuriated nobleman attacked Schloss Ringen that same night with all his men, and, though the Lord of Ringen was prepared for the attack, yet the superhuman fury of the father, and the justice of his cause, over- came all opposition. The castle was stormed, reduced to ruins, and the hearts and brains of its defenders thrown to the dogs.
The histories of these old Livonian castles are often very romantic and tragical; and, though these bloody feuds have been modified by the spirit of the age, the animosity of neighbour- ing nobles now develops itself in in- terminable litigation.
Oulhen, 7g. Villages are perhaps as rare here as in any part of Russia, except the steppes. The great inclo- sures of the post stations afford the only habitation which the traveller meets with ; they are all built of wood, and a post in front of each tells the distances to St. Petersburgh and Moscow, the foci of the empire. The country is either sandy or marshy, or covered with large forests ; the district being one of the ugliest and most barren iu
Russia.
ROUTE 95. — RIGA.
581
Livonia. The road during the breaking up of the winter is almost impassable, and in summer over tracts of sand.
Staakehi, 21 5.
Wohnai^, 20. A large village, the only one besides that of Walk on the whole road between Dorpat and Riga. The flax grown in this part of Livonia is particularly fine, though not so much so as that of Marienburgh, where it is sometimes seen an ell in length, and as silky as hair.
Lemenhof, 19.
Roop, 22.
Engelhardshof, 21.
Hilchensfer, 19.
NeuermuJden, 15.
Riga, 11. The capital of Livonia. Hotel, the King's Arms, in a street near the Quay, kept by a Scotchwo- man ; very comfortable, and charges moderate; Hotel deSt. Petersburgh ; Hotel de Londres, dirty and dear.
Riga, the capital of Livonia, is a strongly fortified city of 60,000 inha- bitants, situated near the mouth of the Dwina, at the distance of about five English miles from the Gulf of Riga, into which that river discharges its waters. It is a thriving commercial place, with a spacious quay, on which the daily market is held. That part of the town that lies closely compressed witliin the earthen walls is essentially German. Its narrow winding streets and pointed roofs, and the dress and appearance of the people, bear a much stronger resemblance to the old cities of the German empire than to anything Russian ; but the suburbs, which are very extensive on both sides of the river, are quite Russian. The immense flat-bottomed timber barges which are built near Vitepsk and Desna resemble the rafts on the Rhine, and are tenanted by whole families of Poles descending the Dwina; these rafts are broken up at Riga as soon as their cargoes are discharged, and not unfrequently the various disjointed fragments which formed compartments of a single barge are converted into a number of primi-
tive dwellings for the peasantry of Livonia and Courland.
The entrance into the city of Riga is by a bridge of boats over the Dwina, upwards of 1500 feet long ; the central vessels being moveable, to permit the passage of ships. The city contains several handsome squares, in one of which is erected a pillar, bearing a bronze statue of Victory, intended to commemorate the courage displayed by the citizens in repulsing, near the town, an attack of some straggling columns of the French invading army, in 1812. Many of the churches and public build- ings are striking and handsome edifices ; of the latter the Rathhaus, the Ex' change, and the Castle are the princi- pal. This is the oldest building in the town, and was once the residence of the Masters of the Teutonic Order. In the interior of the court is a statue of the Grand Master, Walter Von Tletten- berg, who erected this edifice ; it is now inhabited by the governor-general of the Livonian provinces. In the Dom- hirche are the tombs of the first bishops of Riga. The church of St. Peter, with its lofty tower and oriental dome, is a beautiful building, and the view from its summit is such as one seldom meets with in these level countries; in front lie the wide waters of the Baltic, with their distant islands ; while, more immediately beneath, the Dwina spreads its ample bosom, covered with vessels of all nations, and fenced along its banks with the frowning batteries of the citadel ; the dark pine forests of Courland close in the prospect on the south side, contrasting with the bound- less plain of sand that forms the eastern shore of the Gulf of Riga, over which the eye wanders till it is wearied with its dreary unchanging sameness.
The steeple of St. Peter's is said to be the highest in the Russian empire. In the town library are, a curious arm- chair that once belonged to Charles XII., a very old Bible, some letters written by Luther to the Senate of Riga, and a ball which is said to have
583
ROUTE 95. RIGA.
Sect. V.
been fired by Peter the Great in the siege of 1710, and lodged in the wall of the library. The esplanade and gardens, both in and near the town, are well laid out. There is a cele- brated festival held here on St. John's day, the 24th of June, called '' the Flower Feast ;" also one whiah bears the singular title of the " Hugger Sor- row," held in commemoration of a siege in which the inhabitants suffered greatly from famine.
The provinces on the eastern coast of the Baltic were originally peopled by tribes of Wendish origin, Avho held fast to their heathen rites and idol worship long after Christianity was permanently established throughout the rest of Europe. Warlike, restless, and piratical, they were engaged in ceaseless struggles with the Danes and other powers of the north, but, above all, with the merchants of the Hanse Towns, crippling their commerce, and threatening the very existence of the infant mercantile republic. A powerful fleet was speedily equipped, and a landing effected on the coast of Livonia. A species of crusade was preached against these warlike idola- ters, whose stubborn attachment to the dark rites and ceremonies of their fore- fathers defied the zeal and eloquence of the military prelates who founded Riga and Yorkeel towards the close of the twelfth century. These worthies esta- blished the order of the Brethren of the Cross and Sword (Schwert briider), the members of which were principally natives of Bremen and Lubeck, to the former of which cities Albrecht von Apelden, the founder of the order, belonged.
In the full spirit of the name they bore, these warlike adventurers speedily enlarged the teriitories of the Hanse Towns. Ignorant of the lan- guage, and despising the habits of the natives, their principal weapon of con- version to the true fiiith was that sword by which they held their footing on the shores of the east sea ; though on
one occasion the Bishop of Eiga is re- ported to have edified the minds of heathen Wends by a dramatic repre- sentation of a variety of scenes from the Bible, while all writers concur in describing the cruelties practised upon the unbelieving natives by these Chris- tian warriors as of the most revolting and barbarous description. They were not long permitted to pursue their career of conquest and tyranny with impunity. On the north, they were compelled to recoil before the arms of the Dane ; while the Russians, alarmed at the near approach of such formidable neighbours, roused the natives to avenge the wrongs of half a century of oppres- sion, and the flame of insurrection spread far and wide throughout Livonia and Esthonia. Many Grermans were cut off by the insurgents ; but at length Bishop Bernhard, falling upon their tumultuous forces with his disciplined chivalry, routed the Wends and their allies, and slew them mercilessly. The Kussian town of Dorpat was taken, and a German colony established there (a.d. 1220). The capture of the Isle of Oesel, to the rocky fastnesses of which the best and bravest of the Livo- nians had retired as a last refuge, and the voluntary conversion of the Cour- landers, completed the power of the brotherhood. The Emperor Frederick II. (1230) conferred the conquered provinces as an imperial fief on Valquin, the grand master of the order, and everything seemed to promise the rapid rise of a mighty kingdom, when a sudden attack of the Lithuanians laid low the grand master and his hopes of conquest, and nearly annihilated the entire forces of the brotherhood. The scanty relics of this powerful body now called for aid on their brethren the Teutonic knights, who were anxiously seeking a fairer field for military achievements than the East, where they were alike harassed by the open vio- lence of the Mussulman, and the jealousy of the rival orders, the Tem- plars and Hospitallers. The presence
Russia.
KOUTE 95. — RIGA.
583
of these hardy warriors restored the Christians to their former superiority in the field, and these new-comers soon rivalled the knights of the cross and sword in cruelty, burning whole vil- lages that had relapsed into idolatry, and making, in the words of one of their own bishops, " out of free-born men the most wretched slaves." As allies of the Poles, they built on the Vistula the fort of Nassau, and, sallying forth from thence, took by storm the holy oak of Thorn, the chief sanctuary of the Prussians, and beneath its far- spreading arms, as in a citadel, the knights defended themselves against the frantic attacks of the idolaters. A general rising of the natives, and a war of extermination, reduced their nume- rous forces to a few scanty troops, and their ample domains to three strong- holds ; and, after various alternate de- feats and victories, they were rescued from entire destruction by a crusade, under the command of the Bohemian monarch, Ottokar the Great, who founded the city of Konigsberg (a. d. 1260), and gave for a time new life and vigour to the falling fortunes of the northern chivalry.
Internal dissensions, and the conse- quent establishment of a second grand master, who held his seat at Mergen- theim, weakened the growing power of the reviving brotherhood, and the fatal battle of Tannenberg (1410) gave a mortal blow to the importance of this " unnatural institution ; " but the knights still retained the whole eastern coast of the Baltic, from the Narova to the Vistula, and it was not until the end of the fifteenth century that the arms of Poland compelled them finally to relinquish their claims to the district of eastern and western Prussia. The ancient spirit of the order awoke once again in the Grand Master Tletten- berg, Avho routed the Russians in 1502, and compelled the Tzar to agree to a truce for fifty years ; but the stipulated time had no sooner elapsed than the Russians again invaded them, and, too
feeble any longer to resist such power- ful enemies, the knights were glad to purchase peace, and the undisturbed possession of the province of Courland as a fief of the Polish crown, by sur- rendering Esthonia to Sweden, and Livonia to the Poles, while the dis- tricts of Narva and Dorpat were incor- porated with the empire of Russia. Still the brotherhood existed. Without importance as an independent power, but valuable as an ally, its friendship was sought and courted in the various intrigues and commotions of the Russian throne during the early part of the eighteenth century. The office of grand master or Duke of Courland was last held by Biron, the favourite of the Empress Anne.
The only surviving relic of the Teu- tonic knights, besides the palace near Mittau, is the beautiful hall of the pre- ceptory at Marienbiirg. " In June, 1809," says Menzel, "the King of Wirtemburg took possession of Mer- gentheim, the principal settlement of the Teutonic knights. The astonished inmates beheld with fury the new Pro- testant officials, and rose in open re- bellion against the proposed traffic with their rights. They were easily sub- dued and savagely punished ; for they were condemned to the galleys, and compelled to work in chains in the Royal Gardens at Stuttgard. Thus ended the far-famed order of the Teu- tonic knights." Almost the only men- tion of the order in the later history of Germany is the elevation of the Swedish General Horn to the grand mastership of Mergentheim, during the Thirty Years' War, in order to enable him to treat with the nobles and cities of the empire as an equal. The ancient palace of the Teutonic knights at Frank- fort-on-the-Main is at present used as a barrack for the Austrian garri- son.
St. Olai, 19 J. The Dwina is crossed, and the traveller enters Courland. The posting in this province is con- siderably dearer than in Livonia, but
584
EOUTE 96. ST. PETEESBUKGH TO BEELIN. Sect. V.
the arrangements are far superior, and the rate of travelling is good.
MiTTAu, 194. The capital of Cour- land. Hotel de Petebsbourg, and Hotel de Moscou. The Inns of this town enjoy a pre-eminent reputation for exorbitant charges. Mittau is a place of considerable traffic, for which its po- sition near the mouth of the river Aa, over which there is a bridge of boats, is very favourable. Its population is about 10,000. The houses are chiefly of wood, painted green or a reddish brown. The most lively period to visit Mittau is St. John's Day, when the whole town is full of life and bustle, and every spare room is occupied. There is a Casino, which is well conducted, and supported by all the nobility of Courland. The picture galleries of Counts Medem and Ropp are particularly worthy of notice; the library of the Gymnasium contains 25,000 volumes. The most interest- ing building is the castle, the old residence of the Dukes of Courland ; it is in the Versailles style, situated on an island, surrounded by the canals of the Aa, and was built by Marshal Biron, the favourite of the Empress Anne, when he was chosen chief of the Courland chivalry. A fire nearly destroyed it in 1788, when it was rebuilt, and subsequently became the residence of Louis XVIII., when travelling under the title of the Count de Lille. It is now inhabited by the chief officers of the city, and a portion of it is set apart for the Imperial family. The country around Mittau is low, flat, and sandy, producing chiefly flax, and, in the more favoured spots, com ; but covered, for many a verst, with pine forests. Diligences run daily between this town and Riga.
EUievka, 20.
Janishki, 23 1. " 1
,^. Beyond this small town the chaussee commences, which is excellent . Pouhjevha, \Z\.
MilovidovJca, 18.
Zarizino, 18.
NesJcutschu, 22.
Tauroggen (Russian frontier), 22. — Total, 777^ versts.
The route from hence to Berlin is by Tilsit. The travelling in Prussia is placed on an admirable footing, and the roads are well constructed.
ROUTE 96.
ST. PETERSBT7RGH TO BERLIN, BY VIL- KOMIR, KOVNO, AND STOLEPAEN, OR STALLAPONEN, ON THE PRUSSIAN FRONTIER.
There are two roads by which the traveller may reach Berlin, that by Riga and Tauroggen, or the new one by Kovno and Stolepaen ; the latter, though longer by about 30 versts, is by far the best, and, if taken, a great saving of time will be efi^ected, putting the comfort of a good road entirely out of the question. This, the grand road between St. Petersburgh and the Polish capital, was constructed in 1845, and, should the traveller journey day and night, he will reach Berlin on the seventh day ; that is to say, in summer, or in the depth of winter, when the sledge road is in good order, and no difficulties present themselves in cross- ing the various rivers, five in number, which occur on this route. During the commencement or breaking up of the winter season, a traveller may oc- casionally be detained four or five days longer. The English Cabinet mes- sengers, who, during the winter, leave Berlin and St. Petersburgh every fort- night, generally accomplish the dis- tance in six days ; but then it must be remembered, that every facility with regard to horses, post-boys, &c., is given them, both by the Russian and Prussian Governments. These remarks are intended to refer to posting only ; for information respecting the public conve3''ances on this road, and those between Kovno and Warsaw and Kovno and Berlin, or the price for a seat in a
Russia.
EOUTE 96. LUGA.
585
courier's sledge between St. Petersburgh and the Prussian capital, see Prelimi- nary Chapter, pp. 392 and 393. Though the various post-houses erected by the Governinent on this road are externally pleasing to the eye, and of recent con- struction, they are as destitute of pro- visions as a caravanserai in Turkey ; the traveller will therefore do well to take his own with him. Occasionally he will light upon a post-house kept by a German, in which case, tolerable fare may be expected, or at any rate hoped for. St. Petersburgh to
Podgorno Pulkovo, 17. At the twelfth verst is a very old village, and just beyond, on the left, the ex- tensive gardens of Sophia, the entrance to which is in the town of that name, two versts farther on. Sophia is in the government of St. Petersburgh, and appertains to the town and palace of Tzarsko-Selo. It was founded by Catherine II., 1785 ; several of the houses are of brick, and the church, being a miniature copy of the mosque of St. Sophia at Constantinople, is worthy of the traveller's observation.
Gatshina, 25. The barrier of Gat- shina is a neat stone arch ; and about a couple of versts farther on are the ruins of an unfinished chateau, which had been commenced, by the Emperor Paul. The town is a short distance from this chateau. The present mag- nificent palace and gardens were for- merly only a country residence, built by Prince Gregory Orloff, but on his decease it was purchased by the Em- press Catherine, and, with all its ap- pendages of lands and peasants, pre- sented to her son, the Grand Duke Paul, in 1784. The place was raised into a town by the Emperor Paul, in 1797, and contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants. The church contains some relics, brought from Malta, when that island was taken by Baron Hompech, who was at the time Grand Master of the Knights of Malta.
There are several charitable institu- tions at Gatshina, which were esta-
blished and superintended by the late Empress mother ; it was her favourite residence.
Sivoritzi, 12^. Immediately on leaving Gatshina, the road strikes into a forest.
Vira, \2\.
Yatshera, 20. On leaving this sta- tion the road runs through four versts of forest, on the other side of which is a village. Post-house good.
Mutu, 124.
Dolgofka, 12\. At the fourth verst, a village ; and at about the eighth is the district town of Arouga, near which the country is undulating, and very pretty, and the road crosses the river Luga.
LuGA, 20 1. A district town, though built of wood : it contains a church, Gostinnoi Dvor, and market, and, like most other district towns, has a barrier at each end.
Gorodetz, 20^.
Plusa, 23.
Novoselje, 21^.
Kateshnoe, 22\. Post-house good. Here the road divides, that on the left being the one to Kief.
Mocheai, 22f.
CUesii, 22 1.
StremalJca, 15f.
Dulofka, 15 J.
OsTROFF, 17. Post-house good.
Ruhilova, 21\.
VishgodoJc, 21 f.
Nestei, 20^.
Ivanoshaia, 22|.
Regictza, 20 1. Post-house tolerably good.
Gonholna, 20.
KusJcur, 22.
Vassillievo, 2\\.
Du7iaborg,2'[\. The inn tolerably good.
Egypten, 20. Ditto.
Dezazzir, ISg.
Dongelli, 15j.
Utziani, 17.
Scavsliedshika, 20^. Post-house good.
Staskuniska, 17|.
YiLKOMiR, 224. Post-house good.
586
KOUTE 97. ST. PETERSBURGH TO ODESSA. SeCt. V.
PogelosJca, 1Q\. lanova, 17^. Turzani, 15,
KovNO, 15.^. Hotel de la Poste, Hotel de Varsovie. Here the fron- tier of Russia is passed, and the zlots at the next post-station will inform the traveller that he is in Poland. It was near this spot that the French army, on the 24th and 25th of June, 1812, crossed the Niemen on their advance to Moscow. It was here, also, that the remnant of the 450,000 men who formed that army re-crossed it on the 13th of December of the same year. They amounted according to Labaume, only to 20,000, of whom two-thirds at the least had never seen the Kremlin. "Arrived," says that officer," "at the opposite bank, like ghosts returned from the infernal regions, we fearfully looked behind us, and beheld with horror the savage countries where we had suffered so much.'' All discipline was at an end when the debris of the French army reached Kovno, and, had it not been for the gallant defence made by Ney at the Wilna Gate, this rem- nant would have been annihilated. The passport is vise here.
Veiveri, 21.
Budkja, 14.
Marienpol, 18 J. A small town. Here the traveller leaves the main road from St. Petersburgh to Warsaw, on the left, and proceeds to
VilkofsU, 21. Here, on the 22nd of June, 1812, Napoleon, having re- fused the wise and moderate conditions proposed to him by the Emperor Alexan- der, at Gumbinnen, issued the following proclamation in his General Orders : — " Soldiers,
" The second Polish war is begun. The first terminated at Friedland and at Tilsit. At Tilsit, Russia vowed an eternal alliance with France, and war with England, She now breaks her vows, and refuses to give any explana- tion of her strange conduct, until the French eagles have repassed the Rhine and left our allies at her mercy.
" Russia is hurried away by a fatality ! Her destinies will be fulfilled. Does she think us degenerated] Are we no more the soldiers who fought at Austerlitz] She places us between dishonour and war. Our choice cannot be difficult. Let us, then, march for- ward. Let us cross the Niemen, and carry the Polish war into her country. This second Polish war will be as glo- rious for the French arms as the first has been; but the peace we shall con- clude will carry with it its own gua- rantee, and will terminate the fatal influence which Russia for fifty years past has exercised in Europe."
VirhoUen, 14. Between this sta- tion and the next the Polish frontier is reached, indicated by a bar placed across the road. Close to it is a large staring white-washed Custom House, at which the passport is examined. The search at the Prussian frontier is civilly con- ducted.
Stolepaen, 14. — Total, 801 versts. Stolepaen is a moderately sized town, situated within five English miles of the Prussian frontier. The people at the post-house are obliging, and will give the traveller Prussian thalers for his remaining roubles. From hence the road passes by Gumbinnen and Insleberg; and at Tapian, a small post- station about nine German miles from Konigsberg, the road to Tilsit is left to the right. The road from hence to Berlin is excellent, and the posting good. The distance from Stolepaen to Berlin is about 97 German miles, or 458 English,
ROUTE 97.
st. petersburgh to odessa, by vi- tepsk, mohilef, and kief.
St, PETERSBURGH tO
Podgorno Pulkovo, 17. Gatshina, 25. Sivoritzi, 12^. Vira, 12i, Yatshera, 20.
"Russia.
ROUTE 97. SKLOF.
587
M^itii, 121.
Dolgofka, \2\.
LuGA, 20|.
Gorodetz, 20\.
Plusa, 23.
Navoselje, 21 j.
Kateshnoe, 22|. Post-house good.
Pereroselje, 13^.
Jamkino, 14g^.
PoKCHOF, 22. An ancient town, has two churches, a Gostinnoi Dvor, and large market, &c.
Duhrofka, 264-
SoTokino, 25^.
Asheva, 24.
Beshanizi, 18.
Michailof Pogost, 22\.
Priskucha, 26f .
Nedomerki, 2 Of.
Velikije Luki, 23. This ancient district town contains several churches, and twenty-seven manufactories of leather ; this is forwarded to the St. Petersburgh markets by water. The town was in 1611 taken and burnt by the adherents of the pretended Dmitri.
Senhof, 211.
Seruii, 17. This is a lonely post station, surrounded by a dense forest, tenanted only by wolves, which, when hard pressed for food in winter, will sometimes prowl for prey in the near neighbourhood of the post-house.
Tshnrilova, 23. On leaving Seruti, the traveller enters White Russia, and the road plunges into a thick, undulat- ing forest, the scenery of which is ro- mantically varied. The country is of this description, stretching for a con- siderable distance towards the banks of the Dwina, nearly a day's journey. Usviat, 19 2.
Shlikof, 19^. Pass the Dwina into SuRASH, 22 1. On the left bank of that river : there are no remarkable features in the country near here ; but the ground is interesting, as a tract in the route of the desolating army of Napoleon, and the scene of some of the severe conflicts consequent upon his unprincipled invasion. Goponofslschina, 19 5.
ViTEPSK, 19^. The barrier is de- corated by two stone pillars supporting the Imperial Eagles ; and, on entering the town, the traveller will perceive the prison on his right hand. Vitepsk is the Government town ; the Dwina flows through it. It is a very large town, containing eight monasteries, and two convents ; eleven Greek churches, and one for the garrison ; three Roman Catholic churches ; three synagogues ; a gymnasium ; magazines ; hospitals ; tribunals ; tanneries, &c. The popu- lation, chiefly Jewish, amounts to about 15,000 souls. At Vitepsk were Na- poleon's first head-quarters after he left Wilna. Beyond Vitepsk the country is exceedingly pretty, and the road good ; yet the traveller will scarcely pass through it without calling to mind the ravages of the French, and the wisdom and dexterity of Barclay de Tolly's famous retreat,
Dimakova, 20. The road out of Vitepsk keeps the right bank of the Dwina,
PogrehenJci, 20. Grishani, 17.
Orsha, 17f. On the Dnieper, at the mouth of the Orchitza, and one of the oldest Russian towns. It contains monasteries of the orders of St. Do- minic, St. Francis, St. Bernard, and St. Basil ; four Greek churches ; a college of Jesuits ; a convent ; and a syna- gogue. The population, entirely Jew- ish, amounts to about 2000 ; and, as a necessary consequence, the filth of everything in the place beggars every attempt at description. Much as the ordinances of the Hebrews enjoin cleanliness, the traveller will find that the Russian and Polish Jews are the dirtiest of the whole human race claim- ing to be considered civilized.
Alexandria, 21 f. Birch planted on either side of the road, all the way to this place.
Sklof, 174- This small town is the property of General Zoritz. It has barriers, two churches, and a market. The General had erected a handsome
588
EOUTE 97. MOIIILEF.
Sect. V.
building, in the form of a crescent, devoted to the education of young men for the army. The ruined walls alone remain ; it lay on Napoleon's route.
Dohreika, 12.
MoHiLEP, 19|. On the east bank of the Dnieper ; so ancient, that there is no record of the period of its founda- tion ; but, until the close of the thir- teenth century, the Russian Princes held possession of it. In 1772, Ca- therine II. regained it, and, six years after, made it a Government town. It contains many Greek and Roman Catho- lic convents ; several churches, and two synagogues ; and is the residence of a Russian archbishop ; population about 10,000, of which more than 2000 are Jews. This place carries on a con- siderable commerce with Riga, Memel, and Dantzic, in leather, tallow, wax, honey, potash, hemp, and corn ; and imports raw silk.
Amckova, 18j.
Belizhoi Prostojaloi Dvor, 18.
Rabovitchi, 19j.
Propoisk, 12 J.
Glinka, 17 5.
Litvinovitchi, 13j.
VoronovstcMna, 19j.
Tshetshersk, 12.
Shepotovitchi, 16^.
Osohin, 17.
Kostchu Kovitchi, 12.
Gomel, 12 A.
Beliza, 6 j. a town of Little Rus- sia, with a Greek church, and about 800 inhabitants.
Pesotshnaya Buda, 19.
Dohrianka, 20;j.
Drosdovitza, 17.
GORODNIA, 15.
Smilshin, 16.
Nismennaia, 17.
TcHERNiGOP, 19. Supposed to be at least as old a town as Kief. The stone cathedral was built in the eleventh century. There is a wooden church and amonastery.within the inclosure of which is the archbishop's palace. In the town are eight other churches, and a school and gymnasium (dependent upon the
University of KharkofF), in which are professors of mathematics, language, &c. Tchernigof has also several large markets.
Yanovka, 17.
Krasovski Ghutor, 19.
Tcliemer, 18^.
KosELEZ, 20^. In the fertile dis- tricts of Little Russia, the traveller will observe some distinctive features in the landscape; amongst them the primitive wind-mills, and the use of thatch, instead of wood, for the roofs of the cottages, many of which have orchards attached to them. The honey here is collected in pieces in the hol- low trunks of trees, fixed at a consi- derable height on the timber, in the oak forests. A tithe of the produce of these hives belongs to the seigneur. The timber felled in these forests is sent down the Dnieper to the Black Sea, for the Imperial Dockyards. Koselez is a town on what are called the "Steppes," — immense districts, nearly flat ; rarely indeed in them is anything to be descried by the traveller between him and the horizon, but a straggling tree, or a Tartar tumulus. These tracts are extremely dangerous to traverse in the winter, as in the dark, or a snow storm, the way is easily lost, and the bewildered wan- derer may, in a very short space, be frozen, or overwhelmed in drift.
Kalitjanski Ghutor, 17|.
Bogdanofski, 17;j.
Brovari, 19.
Kief, 24. The foundation and ear- liest history of this town is involved in obscurity ; but in 882 it was the capital of Southern Russia. Under the Grand Duke Vladimir, and several of his successors, it flourished for a considerable period; and it is said that in the eleventh century there were 400 churches within its walls. It cannot be doubted that this is an exaggeration ; but it was decidedly a very rich and prosperous town, or such a statement would never have been made.
Most or all the frightful vicissitudes
Fiussia.
ROUTE 97. — KIEF.
589
of Tartar invasions, civil war, fire, and famine, and plague, have swept over Kief, as over all other Russian towns that existed in those days ; and its ancient grandeur has, therefore, suf- fered serions diminution, but it still remains a i"emarkable and venerated city. It is divided into three parts, the " Old Town," the " Petcher- skoi," also called the " New Fort," and the " Podole," the " Low Town," or "Town of the Vale." Each of these has its own fortifications. The banks of the Dnieper are here lofty, and on two steep hills are situated the Old Town and the Petcherskoi divi- sion, with its monaster}'', fortress, and bastions, separated from each other by a deep ravine, while the Podole occu- pies the space between the hills and the river, where are carried on the commercial affairs of the town. The site of the Old Town, in remote ages, was the Sclavonian Pantheon. There the worshippers of Perune, Horsa, Lado, and other idolatrous deities, rendered homage to their savage gods; and there the rough Christian Vladimir erected the church of St. Basil (still standing), on the spot long desecrated by the temple of Perune, the Russian Jupiter, At the northern end of the high land, on which the Old Town stands, is part of another church that was likewise erected by Vladimir. The immense earthen walls of this very ancient part of Kief inclose, within a small space, several churches, and the Cathedral of St. Sophia. This magnificent struc- ture was built by the Grand Duke Yaroslaf in 1037, on the spot, and in commemoration, of his victory over the Petchnegans. It exceeds in grandeur the Petcherskoi Cathedral, and con- tains a mosaic representation of the Lord's Supper on a colossal scale, with other pieces of a similar description.
The palace of the Metropolitan is close to the cathedral, and shaded by venerable trees. Some remarkable remains of ancient art are preserved in it.
The Petcherskoi Monastery stands within the immense fortress of Petch- ersk. and gives its name to this portion of Kief, which, from the eastern ap- proach, has an exceedingly striking and picturesque effect. The churches and cathedral of the Old Town, grouped with those of this monastery, all gilt and coloured, as Russians love to see their great buildings, and the massive fortress, Avails, and bastions mantling the heights, seize at once upon the traveller's attention, at the close ot his laborious journey.
The entrance to the monastery is by a splendid gate, ornamented by full- length representations of St. Anthony and St. Theodosius, the two first ab- bots, and other objects of veneration. The cathedra], dedicated to the Ascen- sion of the Virgin, is reached by a fine alley, on either side of which are the cells of the brotherhood. The interior of the cathedral is in an elegant style of architecture, and on its walls beau- tiful representations of scenes, taken from Scripture history, are many and various ; it is also resplendent with gilding, gold and silver, applied to all decorative purposes in the build- ing, and on the shrines, the most re- markable of which is that of the Virgin, over the doors which open into the Most Holy Place. The lights con- stantly burning about the church, and the profusion of them about this particu- lar shrine at the Vesper Service, are in- sufficient to showto advantage the richly decorated ceiling. The seven turrets of this church, with their gilt cupolas, connected by golden chains, and the superb belfry, which stands alone, and is upwards of 300 feet high, add much to the external splendour of the place. It may be mentioned that the Russian annalist, Nestor, lived in this convent. Among the numerous other churches in the inclosure, that of St. Nicholas is the most worthy of a stranger's in- spection. Within the walls of the for- tress of Petchersk are thebarracks of the garrison, magazine, arsenals, and houses
D D
690
EOUTE 97. KIEF.
Sect. V.
of the officers. Near the fortress is a bazaar; and the quarter of the town behind it, which is regularly laid out, is partly inhabited by'Jews. The best part of the town, containing the resi- dence of the Governor, and other per- sons of distinction, shaded by fine old trees, is north of the Jewish neigh- bourhood.
The renowned catacombs of St. Anthony, the founder of the monas- tery, are excavations in the precipitous cliff which overhangs the river; his remains are therein preserved at the extremity of the labyrinth. This pas- sage is about six feet high, but ex- tremely narrow, and blackened by the torches of the numerous visitors. The number of bodies here preserved is about eighty, ranged in niches on both sides of the passage, in open coffins, enveloped in wrappers of cloth and silk, ornamented with gold and silver. The stiffened hands are so placed as to receive the devotional kisses of the pilgrims ; and on their breasts are written their names, and sometimes a short record of their virtuous deeds. These saints had died a natural death ; but the most distressing part of the scene is the row of small windows, behind which the deluded martyrs had built themselves into a stone wall, leaving only those apertures at which to receive their food ; these little win- dows close at once their dwelling and their tomb. The catacombs of Theo- dosius are to the south of those of St. Anthony, and are on a much smaller scale and simpler plan. They contain but forty-five bodies, and these remains are not so highly venerated as those in the other catacomb.
The pilgrims to this monastery and catacombs amount annually to as many as 50,000, or more; some from one part of .the widely-extended Russian em- pire, some from another. A few will toil even all the weary way from Kamschatka, collecting on the road the offerings of those who are either not able^ or not sufficiently devout to
undertake the journey themselves. A shoi't distance from the road which leads from Petchersk to the Podole, the traveller should notice a handsome monument, that marks the fountain in which the children of Vladimir the Great were baptized. It is a stone obelisk, 150 feet high ; and close to its base is a wooden crucifix, bearing, in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, the words, Jesus of Nazareth, the King of the Jews. The administration of the baptismal rite to the Russian people, at the period of the conversion of their renowned Grand Duke, took place very near the spot on which this monument stands.
The Podole portion of Kief is well and regularly laid out, interspersed with trees and gardens, and forms a strong contrast to the old parts of the city, where, at almost every turn, the picturesque presents itself in great variety. The academy is on a splendid scale ; there are upwards of 6000 students.
Weta, 20.
Wasilkopf, 17J.
Grehenki, 28.
Belaia ZerJcof, 16^.
Schamraiefka, 24^.
Skwira, 12|.
Morosofka, 26.
Pleskofskaia Kartshema, 24 1.
LivoPEZ, 26^.
SchornitscJie, 17|.
Nishnaia Kra^ifna, 26y.
Brazlaf, 14. The capital of the Palatinate of that name, situated on a lake.
Tultshin, 17.
JSavinezkaia, 26.
Schahokritskaia, 26.
Olgopol, 21^. In the government of Podolia.
Pereima, 15|.
Balta, 16. Capital of a circle in the government of Podolia, on the Kadynia : population, 1600. Before the annexation of this part of Poland to Russia, one half of the town be- longed to the Palatinate of Breslau,
Hiissla.
ROUTE 98. ST. PETEESBURGH TO REVAL.
591
and the other to the Khan of Tartary. Some excesses committed by a party of Cossacks here in 1767, were one of the ostensible causes of the war which broke out soon after, between the Rus- sians and the Turks, during which the town of Balta was laid in ashes by the former.
Baitalsluia, 22.
Ananief, 15.
Schishkova, 16.
Djaurova, VI \.
Bantkofikaia, 274-
Janofskaia, 27 1.
Severin ofskaia, 1 8 .
Ilinskaia, 16|.
Odessa, 22^.
Total, 1792^- versts.
ROUTE 98.
ST. PETERSBTJRGH TO REVAL, BY NARVA*
(See Route 95, p. 578, as far as Nar- va), 138.2 versts. Waivara, 21.
Tshudleigh, 17|.
Lewe, 12.
War gel. 21.
Hohenkreutz, 26j.
Petrus, 25 1.
Lop, 22|. This station has a more inviting interior than many others on this road ; two old elms, Baucis and Philemon like, stand at the door, and the landlord's habits of order and clean- liness, acquired in a residence in Eng- land, are in strong contrast with those of his countrymen. " The windows," remarks a recent traveller, '* were bright and clean; the floor clean and fresh sanded, and in the corner stood a dear familiar object, a regular eight- day clock, — Thomas Hunter, Fen- church Street."
Kagal, 23 f.
Geggleclit, 24f.
Reval, 22 1 .
Total, 356 versts.
ROUTE 99.
ST. PETERSBURGH TO WARSAW, BY
elovno, marienpol, suwalki, ani> pultusk; and from the polish cap;tal, by bloni to slupza, on the frontier.
From St. Petersburgh to Marienpol^ (see p. 584, Route 96,) 752 versts.
May-ienpol to Kalvarija, 17 versts. A small town.
Shiplishki, 20^.
SuwALKi, 191. A town.
Stshepki, 14.
Angustovo, 14. A small town.
Raigrod, 23.
Graevo, 17 5.
Stshutshin, 13. 2.
Sfaviski, 22^.
LoMSHA, 21 ^. A small town — cross the river.
Miastkof, 16. Grovernment of Plok.
OsTROLENKA, 17|. A small town. .
Sehin, 20.
Shelkof, 18|.
Pultusk, 15^. A small garrison town on the Narev. Post-house good and clean.
Serodsk, 21.
Taslona, I75.
Warsaw, 16|. Total, 1077^ versts; - An extra post, both on entering and leaving Warsaw. Hotel D'Akgle- TERRE, in the Novi Svyat, the best ; the Hotel de Wilna, de Saxe, and Hotel de l'Europe.
The first view of Warsaw from the St. Petersburgh road is magnificent. The ground rising gradually from the left bank of the Vistula displays its domes and palaces, rising above each other until the vast picture can no longer be taken in at a singlcA-iew. Midway up the steep ascent stands the huge Zamek, spreading far and wide its ample arms, and towering above the surrounding buildings like a giant oak above his brethren of the forest. The suburb of Praga is no longer a fortress bristling with cannon, as in the dd2
593
ROUTE 99. ST. PETERSBUKGH TO WARSAW. Sect. V.
days of Kosciusko ; a few straggling huts upon the sand bfinks of the Vistula, for the most part inhabited by Jews, are all that remain of it. A bridge of boats tra- verses the broad stream of the Vistula ; the entire length of this bridge is above 3000 feet, exceeding the dimen- sions of any similar structure in Eu- rope. The Russian government, it is said, intend to erect a suspension bridge, but this gigantic undertaking has not as yet been carried into execution. A barrier, running the whole length of this bridge, separates the two streams of passengers going to and fro, each having its allotted side, as on the Elbe Briicke, at Dresden. The present population of Warsaw does not exceed 100,000, exclusive of the garrison, the average strength of which may be com- puted at 20,000. Many of the older houses are built of wood, but all the more modern buildings are of stone or brick : all are numbered, beginning from the government palace. The streets are almost entirely without trottoirs, and the pavement bad.
The dimensions of the palaces at Warsaw, both ancient and modern, are enormous, but they now contain little to interest the traveller, save their his- torical associations with many a mighty name now better known to the stranger than to their own countrymen. Amongst these palaces may be cited that of the Counts of Bruhl ; the residence of the Sapiehas, the rivals of John Sobieski ; the palace of the Radziwills, the Lubomirskis, Czartoriskis, and other noble families distinguished in their day as soldiers, men of letters, and poli- ticians. At the extremity of Warsaw there is one royal edifice not less ■splendid than those already men- tioned, that of Augustus II., which, in a fit of pride and gallantry, he caused to be built for one of his .mistresses. It is said that one day ithe beautiful Countess Orselska, in tra- Tersing an uninhabited part of the city, happened to expatiate on the beauty of the site, and that the king, in con-
sequence, raised this palace on it as if by magic. In fifteen days the la- bours of many thousand workmen had produced a palace, park, and gardens, and the king, conducting the countess through the richly furnished apart- ments, said to her, "All this is yours." This palace is now the property of the Count Zamoyski, who has a fine collec- tion of objects of art of the middle ages. In the centre of the town, and near the Vistula, is the ZameJc, the residence of the Polish kings, erected in part by Sigis- mund III., enlarged by Augustus II., and finished by Stanislas Augustus Poniatowski. The architecture is of a sombre character, but the biulding is imposing by its dimensions and site. It is now inhabited by the Governor of Warsaw and his officials.
The splendid Canalettis, so long the glory of the Zamek, are there no longer, but have been removed to decorate the imperial palaces in Russia. The ball- room, with its richly gilded ceiling, the vast hall of the assembly — where the stormy diets were held in former times, and the sword was but too often appealed to, when some stubborn pala- tine threatened to frustrate the wishes and decisions of the assembled nobles — the collection of national archives, and the apartments formerly tenanted bj' the Tzar, when he visited Warsaw, are all it now offers to the traveller's no- tice.
The Government Palace is an im- mense building, of modern erection, comprising within its vast walls the principal theatre, the courts of justice, the custom-house, and, until within the last few years, the hotels of several of the ministers of the various departments of government.
The nobility and the wealthy in- habitants reside in the Cracovian suburbs, in the Electoral and Stony Streets, and in that of the New World. In this elegant street is the Hotel de Ville and the Jardin de Saxe. The palace, pulled down in 1838, was once the residence of the Saxon
Bussla.
ROUTE 99. WARSAW.
593
kings. The former requires only the ornamental water of the Tuileries to make it as charming a resort as those gardens ; it is the fashionable prome- nade. In the same street is the square on which is erected a statue to Coper- nicus, and near the Jardin de Saxe is a very good restaurant, kept by a Frenchman; the cooking and wines are excellent, and the charges moderate.
One of the palaces of the Polish kings, called the palace of Casimir, is now occupied by the professors and students of the university, founded about twenty years since by the Em- peror Alexander. Its library is said to contain 150,000 volumes, and a great number of scarce and curious manu- scripts. The collection of medals is likewise extensive. Attached to this establishment are also a Museum, a Botanical Garden, and Observatory. Nearly in the centre of the city stands the Exchange, a handsome and spacious building. The Marien Bazaar is a large open square, surrounded by shops^ the owners of which are almost entirely Jews ; standing among this assemblage of flowing robes and ample beards, one might fancy oneself once more in the Torgovi Riadi, at Moscow, with its labyrinth of streets and noisy traders.
The churches in Warsaw, both Ca- tholic and Lutheran, might bear a com- parison with those in the majority of European capitals. The principal Ro- man Catholic churches are the cathedral of St. John and the church of the Holy Cross, The Gothic architecture of the former is a monument of taste, the carving and sculpture of the choir being also of excellent workmanship. Twelve charming statuettes adorn the balus- trade, and the Gothic superstructure above them is admirably executed and exceedingly light and elegant. The walls of the side aisles are covered with funeral epitaphs and mo- numents. Among the most recent is one of the Count MalachofFski, by Thor- walsden, of great merit. The tomb of two brothers, Princes of Masovia, one
a bishop, the other a Avarrior, is worthy of notice ; they are represented as if asleep in one another's arms ; and on either side are several passages of scrip- ture expressive of their love one to another, and of their hope in Christ. In the Holy Cross is a fine altar-piece, and the horse-tail of a Turkish pasha, taken by John Sobieski, at Vienna, in 1689 — the sole trophy of that chival- rous enterprize of the " wizard king," by which he drove back the Mussulman from the imperial city, already trem- bling to its fall, and received but cold thanks from the rescued emperor, while all Europe hailed him Avith well-de- served acclamation as the deliverer of Christendom. In a small chapel in the church of the Capuchins there is a monument to the great warrior in black marble, surmounted by a crown and sceptre, and on it is a Latin inscription, which may be rendered — Sacred to the remains of the invincible John III., Prince and King of Poland, who often put to flight the Turkish armies, and delivered besieged Vienna. Nicholas, Emperor of all the Russias, and King of Poland, erected this monument anno. Dom. 1829. Near this, and on the right, is a sepulchral urn dedicated to the memory of Stanislas Augustus, King of Poland; on it is the following poetical inscription: — Morte quisfor- tior 1 Gloria et Amor.
The tower of the Lutheran church is the loftiest building in Warsaw, and the view from the galler)'- at its summit has by many been thought sufficient to repay the traveller for the long and toilsome journey which he must en- counter from whatever quarter he ap- proaches the Polish capital. The other churches of Warsaw have little in them Avorthy of attention ; most of them have at one period or another been pil- laged, and partially destroyed, and again rebuilt in A-arious styles of archi- tecture ; they are for the most part in the old quarters of the city. Many of the squares contain monuments of the Polish kings and chieftains : the most
694
ROUTE 99. — WARSAW.
Sect. V.
showy of these is a colossal statue of Sigismund III., of bronze gilt. There was also a bronze equestrian statue of Poniatowski, one of the finest of all th e immortal works of Thorwalsden, but it has been taken down.
Beyond the city barriers lies the Ujazlov, with its long avenues of lime and chesnut treess, thronged in fine weather with the gay and fair of War- saw ; passing through this, at the dis- tance of a few versts you come to Bel- videre, formerly the residence of the Grand Duke Constantino.
To those who venerate the cha- racter of John Sobieski we recom- mend a walk to the Castle of Wil- lanow, situated on a branch of the Vistula, about three miles from War- saw, and on the same road as the palace of the Belvidere. This chateau, of elegant proportions, and in the style of an Italian villa, with a terrace and wings ornamented with pictures and bas-reliefs, was built in part by the captive Turks whom Sobieski had made prisoners in one of his glorious campaigns, and finished on the origi- nal plan by Stanislas Augustus. At the death of Sobieski the domain of Willanow was sold by his son to the Countess Semiafska, and afterwards became successively the property of Stanislas, the family of the Lubomirskis, and the Count Potocki. The private apartments of Sobieski are said to be exactly in the same state they were at his death, and if this be the case they are highly interesting ; the rooms are neither large nor richly furnished, but show, nevertheless, that great taste "was exercised in their decoration ; the style is that of Louis XIV. It was to this retreat that Sobieski brought back the trophies of his mighty deeds in arms; it was here that he endea- voured to forget the rival factions of his nobles, and the stormy debates of the Diets ; and finally, it was to this palace, and accompanied by thousands of his countrymen, who shouted their passionate welcome, that he came after
he had driven the Moslem from Vi- enna's walls. It was then,
" when his horse triumphant trod
The burgher's richest robes upon,
The ancient words rose loud, ' From God A man was sent whose name was John.' " —
R. M. MiLNES.
Here too Sobieski sunk to rest, in 1696.
The walls of the first room shown to strangers in the palace of Willanow are hung with full-length portraits of the Sapieha family, those of the Jablonoif- ski, and of the Polish kings and queens. In another apartment is a collection of objects of art, armour, and other curiosities. Here is preserved the magnificent suit of armour presented by the Pope to Sobieski, after the Turks were driven from Vienna. It is covered with arabesques and chas- ing, and inlaid with ivory and mother of pearl. The room of the beautiful Marie d'Arquien, Sobieski's queen, is also shown, and near it is a small one covered with pictures representing the peccadilloes of Jupiter, from Danae down to Leda. The queen herself figures on the ceiling, amidst a crowd of lovers ; and there is a portrait and bust of her in an adjoining apartment. In the collection of pictures there are some works of Lucas of Leyden, and Lucas of Cranach, worthy of notice ; also an admirable Rubens — the Death of Se- neca. In the park of Willanow is the magnificent tent of Kara Mustapha, one of the spoils of war brought from Vienna hy Sobieski.
The traveller should also visit the royal villa of Lazinsky, beautifully si- tuated on the Vistula ; the views from the park are particularly fine, com- manding the whole course of the river and the distant towers and palaces of Warsaw. Here resided the effeminate Stanislas IV. Not far from this place is Jablona, the chateau of Poniatowski, Avho fell in the retreat after Leipzic. A well chosen library, maps, and works of art, indicate that he was possessed of a cultivated mind, as well as a brave heart ; amongst these memorials of him is his portrait, with an inscription, said
Russia. BouTE 100, — st. petersbukgh to Warsaw.
595
to be the last words he uttered, as, for the last time, he charged into the ranks of the enemy : Bog mi 2)02nerz il honor Polakow, Bogu go ad dam. " God confided to me the honour of Poland, to God I will render it." In another room is the celebrated picture of Napoleon passing the Great St. Bernard, once the property of Blucher, and sold by his son for 3000 francs. Five miles from Warsaw is the field of Vola, celebrated as the spot on which the election of the Polish kings took place. There is a Canaletto in the palace of the Kremlin at Moscow re- presenting this ceremon3^ See p. 543.
FROM ^YARSA■W BY BLONI TO SLUPZA ON THE FROHTIER.
Warsaw to Oltasef, 1Q\ versts.
Bloni, 10. A small town in the government of Musovia.
Seroki, 12.
Sochatshef, \2\.
^oslof. 12.
LoviTSSH, 12. A small town.
Plesha Doinhrova, 22 j.
KuRTiXO, 18|.
Kroshnevize, 13.
Klodava, 16.
Kolo, 18f. Cross the Warta, after which is the government of Kalitz.
Konin, 27^.
Slupza, 27^.
Total, 2184 versts. •
The Russian and Prussian frontier customhouses are situated close to- gether to the west of Slupza. The distance from the Russian frontier to Posen is about 10 Prussian, or 47 Eng- lish miles. The examination of lug- gage at Slupza is strict, and the search for coined money particularly careful.
ROUTE 100.
ST. PETERSBURGH TO WARSAW BY VIL- KOMIR, WILNA, AND GRODNO.
From St, Petersburgh to Vilkomir, (see p. 584, Route 96,) 6344 versts. Vilkomir to Vesofskaia, 20^. Jawnjunskaia, \*J\.
Kersanskaia, 18 j.
WiLNA, 161. A large town of Li- thuania, with a university, castle, and palace. The houses are for the most part built of wood. It was taken by the Russians in 1794.
Gedlinskaia, 23^.
Soletshniki. I85.
Woronovo, 16|.
Skirmtini, 15i.
LiDA, 14. A small town.
Radsivonishki, 20.
Tstsholna, 16|.
Shurava, 12.
Milkofstshisiia, 22j.
Strunin, \Q\.
Grodno, 24.
Kusniza, 21.
SoKOLKA, 14|. A small town.
Bukshtel, 17 1.
BiALisTOK, 19|. A small town.
Slotorija, 14.
Menshennin, 32.
Samhrqf, 18.
Ostrof, 29 1.
Budi-Diski, 14j.
Vishkof, 21.
Serodsk, 27^.
Taslona, 17?.
Warsaw, 16^.
Total, 1171 versts.
For description of Warsaw, see page 591.
ROUTE 101.
MOSCOW TO TULA BY VLADIMIR, NIJNI, NOVGOROD, AND RIAZAN.
If he has not yet been off the Moscow road, the traveller will now have the pleasure of experiencing for the first time the sweets of steppe travelling, and judging whether the remarks on roads and road-side accommodation in our preliminary chapter have been over- charged. This route, to the great fair of Nijni, is no exception to the rule, and, after passing the eastern gate of this capital, the wayfarer will have to plough his own furrow through a heavy sand, unless the chanssee is finished.
696 ROUTE 101. MOSCOW TO TULA BY NIJNI NOVGOROD. Scct. V,
Gorenlci, 18 versts. Kupafiia, \6\.
BoGORODSK, 16. This is a district town^ but dull, and the streets in many places grass-grown. Good bread may be had here. Most of the villages look far from flonrishing, the doors of the houses being frequently choked with drifting sand ; no pig even will be seen, to greet the traveller, or a dog to bark at him.
Ploiava, 24. A long miserable vil- lage. The country beyond this im- proves, and is undulating; larger herds of cattle are occasionally seen, the land is better cultivated, and here and there a church spire and trees enliven the tame landscape. Buck-wheat and rye are the favourite crops.
PocFvOP, 20. A small town. Peteishku, 18. Boldino, 18^,
DmetrlefsJcoe, or Vorsha, 19. Vladimir, 20 |. This is the capital of the government of the same name, and figured in history when it was the seat of government of the Dukes of Vladimir, during Avhich time it was frequently ravaged by the Tartars. Here is an ecclesiastical seminary, the most frequented in Eussia, which ranks with the universities. The city is also held in great veneration, from its hav- ing been the burial place of St. Alex- ander Nevsky ; and tradition states that his ashes reposed here until they were removed to St. Petersburgh ; others state that the grand duke was buried at a convent on the banks of the Volga. The view of Vladimir, after passing the Kliazma, along which it is built, is pleasing. Standing high on the Avooded bank, its lofty cathedral and large bar- racks, surrounded by some ancient look- ing structures, give it, for Russia, a general air of antiquity. This pro- vince is one of the richest in Russia, agricultural produce being raised in con- siderable quantities. Manufactures of different kinds also flourish : the cotton works of Prince CheremetiefF are con- siderable; other spinning works employ
about 30,000 hands. Vladimir is cele- brated for its cherry orchards, the fruit of which is sent to Moscow. The po- pulation is about 4000, and many of them gain a livelihood by the traffic which is created by the great fair. Barali, 12.^. SouDOGDA, 234. Moshli, 31. Dratsltevo, ^b\.
Murom, 29J. A district town o{ the province of Vladimir, with a popu.- lation of about 4500 inhabitants, situ- ated on the river Oka, one of the great tributaries of the Volga. There is a cathedral and sixteen churches in this town. Muvom was originally one of the chief places in Russia for the manu- factory of leather, and the city is said to be of older date than that of any other in Muscovy. It has been held successively by Tartars, Mordouins, and Russians, The ferry over the Oka is crossed in a large boat navi- gated by a rope stretched from side to side. This river rises in the govern- ment of Orel, and pursues a cours3 nearly as tortuous and as slovv' as the Volga itself, into which it falls at Nijni Novgorod. The Oka is wide, but the yellow sands of its banks are rapidly filling up the bed, so that the large barges which navigate it are often seriously impeded in their voyage ; these sands once yielded gold, but they appear to do so no longer ; there are valuable copper and iron mines near the river.
Monohovo, 31 f. Osahlihovo, 29.
Yarimovo, 18j. In the wide val- ley a short distance beyond this sta- tion, a lake will attract the traveller's attention, with a beautiful little island on its tranquil surface. The white walls of a cloister may be distinguished amongst the trees upon it. Aleshkovo, 25. DosTcino, 21.
Nijni Novgorod (i. e. Lower Nov- gorod), 24^.
Total, 441^ versts.
Russia.
ROUTE 101. — NIJNI NOVGOROD.
597
The road to Nijni by Vladimir, Viasniki, and Gorkovitz, is only 3781 versts. Some Russians go to Yaroslaf by land, and thence down the Volga on some of the huge market barges, but the navigation is tedious and some- times inconveniently exciting, if not dangerous. The road by land from Yaroslaf to Nijni is one of the most imdulating in liussia, because the table land is frequently intersected by tri- butary streams to the Volga. Mons. de Custine, who is for ever finding a mare's nest, says, that while travelling this road the jolting was so excessive that it broke a bottle of his Seltzer water, though carefully packed in hay. We have, unfortunately, had a very disagreeable experience of Russian roads, and that from Yaroslaf is pro- bably a bad one, still we cannot credit the anecdote the Frenchman has selected to prove it such. But we are approach- ing Nijni and its fair, the great ob- ject of the journey, and to some the only object for visiting Russia. Twenty- four hours' travelling from Murom will bring the stranger within sight of the white walls and blue domes of Nov- gorod. The fair is held in the autumn, and the weather is at that season generally fine, so that dust, not mud, will be the misery; but if there has been any rain, the road for the last nine miles will exceed in depth of the latter, all that the tourist has ever been dragged through ; and one traveller states, that he was five hours perform- ing the last five miles. This is caused by the carriages, kibitkas, and telegas of the different streams of traders and merchandise converging to the central point. Long lines of these vehicles will assure the stranger that he is ap- proaching the town; bands of Cossacks, stationed by way of police in rude tents along the road, with their long lances glittering among the trees, are seen in larger numbers ; and crowds of Russians and wild eastern-looking men, in singular and varied costumes, be- come every moment more dense, until,
on reaching Nijni itself, the crowd and turmoil surpasses all description.
The population of this town is only 18,000 souls, though nearly 300,000 frequent it during the fair; it is on the high road to Asiatic Russia, and yet does not contain one good hotel. The best is in the upper town; the Dom Monacho, in the lower, is the next best. The most canny way ta proceed is to inquire at Moscow, of some competent person, and write be- forehand to secure rooms; even with this precaution the accommodation Avill be found far from good. The English- man, however, who travels in Russia, and to Nijni, will not expect to sleep very often in a clean bed, or revel in gastronomy, and ought to be prepared to rough it in every sense of the word : in addition to other social discomforts, the intrusions of the black beetle should be mentioned as one of the greatest to be met with at Nijni ; they swarm every- where. Hunger and fatigue will perhaps overcome many if not all the disagree- ables, and, with the mental appetite welK whetted by curiosity, the stranger will,_ on the morning after his arrival, be all on the qiu vive to lionize the scene he has come so far to witness. In order that he may have some idea of the ne- cessity there is of holding this fair, it will be as well to refer him to the map, when he will remark that some place of rendezvous was absolutely re- quisite, to enable the inhabitants of the empire east of Moscow, as well as of those countries bordering on China and the Caspian, to exchange their productions with the merchants of St. Petersburgh, and those who might come from Germany and the central parts of Europe. This fair, which was originally held at Kazan, the ancient capital of Tartary, Avas afterwards transferred to Makarief, about fifty miles below Nijni, on the lands of a boyard. At a still later period, viz., in 1817, this property was, for some reason, confiscated by the Crown, and the Emperor Alexander then trans- D D 3
598
ROUTE 101. NIJNI NOVGOROD.
Sect. V.
ferred the gathering to Nijni ; but it is still called by Russians the fe,ir of Makarief, or St. Macarius, under whose protection it is held. The town of Nijni is situated on a high triangu- lar promontory, standing between the Volga and the confluence of the Oka with that river. The Oka at this point seems as large as the former, and is, in fact, a magnificent stream, and na- vigable for a great portion of its length. The position of Novgorod is so admir- ably adapted for commerce, and so cen- tral in regard to Asiatic as Avell as Euro- pean Russia, that Peter the Great in- tended, at one time, to make it the seat of the capital of his empire, instead of the mouths of the Neva. The country round it is also highly picturesque ; nevertheless those who founded the city 'do not seem to have courted the oppor- tunities of enriching themselves by 33ieans of the two great rivers which flow by it, for the old town lies back behind the ridge. This mistake struck the pre- sent Emperor very forcibly when he paid Nijni his first visit ; and he is said to have remarked, that " nature had done everything, man nothing." To remedy this, a suburb has been built along the face, and at the foot, of the high ground which forms the southern bank of the Oka. The prin- cipal part of the city lies on the sum- xnit of the triangular height, and is chiefly composed of three handsome streets, converging towards an irregular open space in front of the Kremlin, which covers the lofty point of the triangle immediately overhanging the Volga. There is a beautiful terrace above this river, from whence is seen one of the most singular and extensive views in Europe ; as far as the eye can reach extends a vast plain of corn and forest land. The city contains no fewer than twenty-six churches, some of which are of great size and beauty, two monasteries, and a nunner3^ The Kremlin, with its low arched gates and jagged walls, is one of the most remark- able of these ancient structures now
remaining in Russia. Here is a monu- ment to the patriotic Minim and Po- jarski. Curious, however, as the Kremlin and the various churches are, they possess, to one who has seen all the wonders in this way at Moscow and St, Petersburgh, little interest com- pared with the views from the spot on which they stand, and the tAvo mighty rivers on which the traveller looks down, flowing so near that it seems as if a pebble could be thrown into either from this lofty eminence. Turning, however, from the far east, the stranger must look in a contrary direction, and across the Oka, to the triangular piece of land between that river and the Volga, a low, and sometimes inun- dated flat, exposed to the waters of both these rivers, where, during the fair, is exhibited a picture of human life unparalleled in any other portion of the globe. Here is then seen a vast town of shops, laid out in regular streets, with churches, hospitals, barracks, and theatres, the whole tenanted by no less than from 250,000 to 300,000 souls, destined, however, in six weeks to be as silent and lifeless as the forest steppes of which we have just made mention; for, when the fair is over, not an inhabitant of Nijni ever traverses the spot which annually swarms with foreigners. It must not be supposed that these shops are con- structed like the English booth, of can- vas, ropes, and poles ; they are, on the contrary, regular houses, built of the most substantial materials, gene- rally of one story, with large shops to the front, and sleeping rooms for the merchant and his servants in the rear. The interior portion of the fair is regu- larl}'- laid out in twelve or thirteen streets of shops, terminating in a Russian church, and twelve Chinese pavilions, from the summits of which there is a good view. It is said that a person would have to walk twenty- five miles if he promenaded every street ; and this does not include what may be termed the suburbs of the fair.
Russia.
EOUTE 101 . NIJNI NOVGOEOD.-
599
The business of this fair is of such im- portance, that the Grovernor of the Province takes up his residence in it during the two months it lasts, that is to say, July and August. His house, which is in the centre, is a handsome building, and accommodates a large train of secretaries and other officials, A dozen Chinese pagodas rise above the shops, and the whole stands upon vaulted cloacse, into which dirt of every description is conveyed. These sewers, which are constructed of hewn stone, are cleaned out several times a day, by pumps, which draw the water from the adjoining rivers, and are entered at several points by hand- some staircases. They were constructed by the Emperor Alexander, and are worthy of the Morpeths of ancient Rome. Any one who shows a dispo- sition to defile the streets is quickly enjoined by a Cossack to retire to the lower regions. A portion of the sums expended on these sewers, which, from the nature of the swampy soil, must have been enormous, would have been economized had a better site been se- lected; but there seems to be a fatality attending the choice of position for public edifices all over the world, our own barracks in the West Indies in- cluded. The first view of this lair from the Kremlin is very striking; but we must descend from that elevated spot, and take the traveller into the busy scene itself; this is about a mile from the centre of the city, though less from the outskirts, to which it is in fact united hj a long and wide bridge of boats across the Oka, and a line of good houses along the steep and diffi- cult slope leading to the bank of that river. Here will be met a countless throng of every kind of vehicle, for this is the only bridge that connects the town of Nijni with the fair; and the space between the street in ques- tion and the entrance to it is one of the very few spots in Russia where large masses of the population can be seen congregated together, always ex-
cepting the military portion of it. On each side of the bridge, and for more than a mile and a half above it, the river is wider than the Thames at West- minster, and so completely covered with boats, that the element on which they float is scarcely visible. These barges, of every variety of shape and tonnage, are either discharging or tak- ing in their cargoes. The shops in the fair near the bank thus receive their goods at once from the two rivers, and at the more remote parts of it there are canals, which serve the same purpose. An aquatic community, amounting to 40,000 persons, from every corner of this side of the earth, inhabit this floating camp; and their countenances and costumes are as varied and strange as the vessels they navigate. Had Kohl gone to Nijni, and spent a week in rambling over them, we should have had a most sin- gular and amusing description of these fresh-water sailors. On the Volga, near the mouth of the Oka, and up and down the former river, extends a si- milar scene. Immediately on leaving the bridge, the fair ground begins; this part is crowded with mujiks looking out for employment, with a good sprinkling of Cossacks to keep order ; then come lines of temporary booths, displaying beads, trinkets, and articles of dress for the lower orders, particularly caps from Tartary, Kirghis bonnets, made of black wool, and flat gold-figured cowls from Kazan. These booths stand in front of the tea houses, laid out with little tables : and traktirs, or resta%irants, large enough for two or three hundred persons to dine in with comfort, at any price from ten silver kopeks to twelve silver rubles. This being the great entrance to the fair, it is always the most crowded part of it, consequently the most interesting to the traveller; and if he can squeeze himself into some corner, or under the projecting roof of some booth, no easy matter in such a whirlpool of promenaders, he will pass
600
ROUTE 101. KIJNl KOVGOEOD.
Sect. V,
in review as strange a scene as he ever witnessed, or is likely to do again. It is scarcely accurate to apply the word tame to such a stream of human beings, but the stranger must not expect to v.'itness the diablerie of an English, German, or French fair ; no clown, grinning from ear to ear, is to be seen, nor is the peculiar squeak that an- nounces the peripatetic Pvinch to be lieard, no quack dentist to pull teeth, and dispense his nostrums. The fair of Nijni is not an idle holiday meeting, but a place of business, a gathering of merchants, traders, and bankers, who liave their whole fortunes at stake, and who meet here once a year to deal and barter in commodities which may be valued at not less than fifteen millions stei'ling. It should also be mentioned that a great blank exists in the crowd, caused by tlie scarcity of female laces. From the space in front of the bridge the stranger enters into the regular quarters of the fair, and unless he has studied costumes, various will be his inquiries as to those he meets at every tuni. Amongst the traders which may pi'obably fall under his observation is the white-faced, flat-nosed merchant of Archangel, come to sell his furs ; the bronze and long-eared Chinese his tea ; Tartars, Crim and Nogai, with their muslins ; Cossacks with their hides from the Ukraine ; and others from the Aktuba with caviare ; Persians with their scents and amulets ; Bukarians Avith their turquoises and precious stones ; Bashkirs, Calmucks, Turko- mans, Kirghisses, Circassians, Turks, and other eastern etcetera. There is, indeed, no spot in the world where so many individuals meet belonging to such different divisions of the globe. The number of Mahometans is so great that a handsome mosque has been built for them at the end of the fair, in Avhich worship is performed as regu- larly as in those of their native cities. The Bukharians, who inhabit the coun- try near Thibet, consume nearly a year in their journey out and home. The
Kalmucks and Kirghisses are many of them horse-dealers, and bring here droves of their little wild steeds ; these animals are very active and strong, and singularly attached to each other, so much so that when sold it is necessary to separate them by force. Amongst the European merchants and dealers may be cited those of Manchester ; Grex'man jewellers; Swiss watchmakers; Frank- fort wine merchants ; Hamburgh leech buyers; dealers in amber from the Baltic ; pipe-makers from Dresden ; furriers from Warsaw ; French fancy dealers ; Jews from Poland, and the south of the empire, in their long black caftans ; and, though we did not meet with one, there is no doubt, when so many dollars are clianging hands, a delegate or two from Boston or New York. Many of the bulky articles oc- cupy a large space of ground, and ta that called the tea quarter we will now conduct the traveller through streets as long and as wide as some of the best in London, many of which have elegant light arcades on each side, supported in front by thousands of cast-iron cohnnns, where purchasers can walk about well sheltered in all kinds of weather, and make purchases, or gossip, as they feel disposed. The shops, generally very handsome, ex- tend, in some instances, like Swan and Edgar's, from street to street, so as to have two fronts ; they present nothing of the confusion of a fair, and the goods of every kind are as neatly arranged as in the shops of a large capital. This tea quarter is one of the most interesting in the fair, not only from the number of Chinese seen in it, but also from the large demand there is for this article. The Eussians are, after the English, the most inveterate tea drinkers in Europe ; and we be- lieve that the tea sold at Nijni is the finest imported from China — it is, cer- tainly, the most fragrant and perfumed, and, therefore, to the English palate ge- nerally perhaps not so agreeable ; to our own, however, the Russian tea is deli-
Hussia.
BOUTE 101. — ^•IJKI NOVGOROD.
COl
cious. It is introduced into this country by Kiatka, on the frontiers of China, a very insignificant place, and separated from it and the Chinese town of Mamaia by a small brook. At this first depot it is exchanged for goods ; and from thence transported by land, in packages of about two feet square, and covered with skin, to Koursk, in Siberia ; here the tea is put into barges, which navigate the Irtish and the Tobol, until it arrives at the town of Tourmine, where it is disembarked, and transported again by land to Perm, in Siberia; there it is once more em- barked in boats that descend the Kama to the Volga, by which river it arrives at Nijni. From 90,000 to 100,000 chests are annually imported; half of these remain in Siberia, and reach Moscow by sledges during the winter, while the remainder are sold at this fair. The importation from China to England is upwards of 350,000 chests annually; but it should be observed that a pound of the tea sold at Nijni would go farther, that is make more tea, than two pounds of that sold in England ; the very finest fetches sometimes as much as thirty or forty shillings a pound. Next in in- terest to the tea quarter is that of the Persians, situated in a 'suburb on the opposite side of an arm of the Oka, in which are sold costly shawls, small carpets, and silk pieces. Then there is the quarter for the dealers in skins and furs ; here the outside garment of pretty nearly every beast that claims the arctic circle for a home may be seen, from a sable to a bear ; and a pelisse of the choicest skins of the lat- ter animal will fetch as much as five hundred pounds. Near this is the quarter for the sale of Siberian iron — a perfect metal town; one may walk for nearly half a league surrounded by every species of bar iron, palisades, pots, agricultural and other instruments. The outskirts, in which most of the foregoing articles are sold, is by far the most animated portion of the fair;
there is more movement there, car- riages and carts are passing to and fro, the tones of the dealers are louder, venders of kvass and refreshments ply their trade with unceasing energy, and the crowd roll backwards and forwards in one uninterrupted stream ; every tongue going ; and earnestness or drol- lery in every face. In the interior of the fair there is an air of regularity and order which savours more of real business; even the features of the Cossacks, who do the duties of police- men, are scarcely ever seen to relax into a smile. There is also a theatre, and sometimes a good company.
Nijni Novgorod back to
DosJdno, 2 4 4.
Aleshkovo, 21.
Yarimovo, 25.
Osahlikovo, 18|.
MonaJcovo, 29,
MUEOM, 313.
OcJcsJtevo, 23.
DmitHefskoe, or Agafanovo, 20|.
Kasimoff, 18|.
The population of the country for the last few stages evidently shows its Tartar origin ; but their wild and war- like habits are quite subdued, though the swarthy oval face, dark elongated eye, arched nose, and rounded forehead, and the small compact frame, testify to their descent, and contrast strangely with the personal characteristics of their Russian fellow subjects. In this government there are iron mines ; and on entering the government of Riazan some improvement in cultivation is observable. Hops and sunflowers, a little oats, barley, and wheat are found in the neighbourhood of the villages, and cattle, sheep, and pigs are abun- dant. The town of Kasimoff stands high, on the left bank of the Oka; the opposite bank is low and flat. The inhabitants of Kasimoff amount to about 5000. It was a place of great consideration in the times of Tartar supremacy, and here is still the ancient mosque, in a tomb near which lies buried the terrible Shah Ali ; the
602
BOUTE 101. MOSCOW TO TULA.
Sect. V.
Arabic inscription on which enlightens but few travellers as to the virtues or achievements which it probably records, in common with epitaphs any or every- where else. The Tartar suburb con- sists of wretched huts grouped on a high point above the river ; but the un- mixed blood of the race that inhabits it cannot be mistaken, though the glory and power of the horde has long since departed. The rest of the town is decaying and drearj^ ; there is, how- ever, an old church and a miserable Gostinnoi Dvor. ''Begging," says a traveller, some years ago, " is the only industry of the place." The costume of the women cannot be passed unob- served. An outer garment, like a sol- dier's great coat, strapped round the waist, low, strong mud boots, and a white handkerchief, folded in a stiff square in front, and hanging loose be- hind the head ; a bad imitation of the Italian.
The soil becomes very sandy in this stage, and the only crop of value that it produces is mushrooms.
Jerachturskaia, 30. Here cows are almost superseded by geese, for the stubble will not maintain cattle to ad- vantage. One of the two churches in this place is exceedingly magnificent for a place so little frequented. Still a sandy soil, and the track, in consequence, very bad, even through the towns.
Tschefskoe, 27.
ITistrus, 27. Forest and fertility have here disappeared ; sandy undula- tions and a lazy river are the only featiires of the neighbourliood ; but further on the oats and sunflower are seen again ; from the seeds of the latter the oil is expressed, but it is also boiled and eaten, resembling in some degree the Indian corn. Poultry fat- ten well upon it ; pheasants, partridges, and other birds also eat it with avidity. The sheaves are used instead of straw, and the stalks contain a good deal of alkali. These valuable properties ren- der it common in many parts of Cen- tral and Southern Russia.
SamhulofsJcaia, 29.
EiAZAN, 26. This is a government town, and one of the most cheerful in appearance in the interior of Eussia. In the reign of Catherine II. it num- bered but 1500 inhabitants, now there are 10,000 or more. They are indus- trious and prosperous, have a public garden and gay kiosk, and the houses and streets are spacious, more particu- larly in the heart of the city, where, strange to say, the garden is situated. The site of this place is a wide hollow, and it spreads over the adjacent de- clivities.
Jlinshaia, 29.
ZaraisJc, 27. Its population is about 5000, but it is a deserted looking town, though it has plenty of wide, straight streets ; the plastered facing is all tumbling off the large houses. The Kremlin is in ruins, the Gostinnoi Dvor is gloomy, and, in the wooden suburbs, the grass grows in the streets.
Usunova, 29.
Venef, 32. A district town. In comparison with Russian scenery gene- rally it may be said to stand on a steep height. It has 4500 inhabitants, a church or two, and a wooden prison. This town is also a has been; dismal plaster dilapidation destroys all claim to respectability, and the streets, being unpaved, are in wet weather knee- deep in mud. In this excessively rich corn country Avood is proportionably scarce, and the cottages are built of clay instead of timber.
Anishina, 27. At a short distance from this road is the small lake Ivanooskoe, the source of the river Don, which gives its name to the cele- brated and most powerful tribe of Cos- sacks. It is sluggish and full of shal- lows, and its mouth full of sand- banks ; in consequence its winding course of 900 miles to Tcherkask, where it enters the Sea of Azov, is of little use in inland navigation.
Tula, 27, 963 versts. The whole of this cross road may be travelled with quite aa little inconvenience, perhaps
Hussia.
BOUTE 103. — MOSCOW TO WARSAW.
603
rather less, than some of the great ones ; and the saving of 70 versts, by rejoining the road to Odessa at Tula instead of coming back to Moscow, would be de- sirable to most tourists.
EOUTE 102.
5I03COW TO WARSAW, BY SMOLENSK AND MINSK.
This road is most uninteresting, un- less the fact of its having been, as far as Borisof, the one by which the French beat their retreat, relieves it from that epithet. The journey usually occupies about a week.
Moscow to ^
PerchushJcovo, 30 f.
PodlipH, 25.
SheUcofka, 24 f.
MosHAisK, 23f. A small town on the Moskva.
Gridneva, 29.
Gshatsk, 34. On the Gshat.
Tophicha, 31.
ViASMA, 30. A small town on the river of the same name. Here the Rus- sians attacked the French under Eu- gene Beauharnois, on the 3rd of No- vember, 1812 ; but the latter, notwith- standing inferiority in artillery, main- tained his position long enough to enable the baggage to pass through the town ; subsequently his situation be- came very critical, and the French were only saved from a severe defeat by the bravery and exertions of Ney, who commanded the rear-guard ; the ex- cellent position which he occupied, and that of the large ravine on the left of the town, at length arrested the ene- my's progress. At the bridge over the little river Osma, at a village called Policenovo, between Viasma and the next station, the rush of the troops and camp followers to clear the narrow de- file led to the greatest insubordination and loss of life.
Semlevo, 26. On a steep hill,
Vasina, 27|:.
DoEOGOBusH, 22|. A small town.
The Dnieper here is 210 feet broad. The French reached this on the 6th of November, when the weather, which had hitherto been fine, suddenly changed to a tempest of snow and wind ; and from this day it may be said that the army lost its courage and military attitude ; the guns were abandoned, the ranks broken, and the men who straggled from the road were soon despatched by the Cossacks or the peasantry, eager to avenge the miseries which they had suffered.
Michailqfka, 22.
Pneva, 25.
Bredichino, 17.
Smolensk, 22^. Capital of the Government of the same name, situated on the Dnieper. This city was in the ninth century in a flourishing state, and independent until the year 881, when it submitted to Novgorod. The scenes of 1812 have left it almost a heap of ruins, the fortifications being much in the same state as when Napoleon left them ; large apertures made in the walls have never been repaired, and the inhabitants seem poor and misera- ble. Here the French army had ex- pected to rejoin the divisions left on the Dnieper and the Dwina, and find their stores, but on their arrival the)- learnt that Napoleon had altered his plans, that the ninth corps had not even halted in Smolensk, and that the pro- visions were all consumed. " A thun- derbolt," writes Labaiime, "falling at out feet would have confounded us less than did this news ; the little that re- mained in the magazines was, in spite of the guard, pillaged by the famished soldiers, who would not wait for the regular distribution of their rations." " This pillage," remarks the same author, " led for the moment to abun- dance. At the unexpected view our hearts once more expanded. One laughed with joy as he kneaded his bread, another sang as he cooked his meat ; but most of our party, eagerly seizing the brandy, quickly caused the wildest gaiety to succeed to the most
604
EOUTE lOj^. — MOSCOW TO WAESAW.
Sect. V.
distressing sadness." On the 14th November, Napoleon held here his first council of war.
Koritnia, 23.
Krasnoe, 285. The French, in the several engagements near this place, lost 25,000 men, thousands of pri- soners, and twenty-five pieces of can- non. It was in one of these affairs that Davoust's baton- de-Marechal, now in the Kazan church, Avas taken. The Russians divide the retreat into three epochs — the first ended at the battle of Krasnoe, the second at the I3eresina, and the third at the Niemen.
Liadi, \Q\.
Kosiani, I65.
Duhrovna, on the Dnieper, 12f.
Orsha, 14^. A small town on the Dnieper, which is crossed by a ferry. The Hospital of Napoleon is a mass of ruins, having been gutted by fire.
Kochanovo, 28|.
Tolotshin, 19.
Maliafka, 20a.
Krupka, 16.
Loshniza, 25.
BoRisoF, 17^. On the Beresina. The passage of this river was the second fearful epoch in the retreat. The Russians having destroyed, in their retrograde movement, the great bridge of Borisof, now defended the right bank, and occupied, with four divi- sions, the principal points ; but Napo- leon, by clever manoeuvring and stra- tagem, obtained possession of the vil- lage of Studzianca, and there, notwith- standing the opposition of the enemy, constructed two bridges ; on these Marshal Oudinot crossed with his divi- sion, and fought his way to the head of the bridge of Borisof, when Napoleon, with a portion of the troops under Bcaviharnois and Victor, and the Poles under Dombrowski, followed ; they v/ere, however, hotly pursued by the Russian army of the Dwina and that of Kutusoff, with which it had formed a junction near Lochnitza, the last divisions arriving in a deplorable state of confusion at the river; and
then followed a scene which has no parallel in the military history of any country. It was about three o'clock in the afternoon of the 27th November that Napoleon crossed the Beresina, and about eight on the following morn- ing the bridge for the cavalry and the carriages broke down, when the artillery and baggage advanced towards the other bridge and attempted to force a passage. And now commenced a scene which defies description. Thousands of the infantry, who had refused to leave their fires and cross on the pre- ceding evening, on the plea that the bridges would be more free the next day, seeing one bridge gone rushed to the head of the one remaining, and. entered into a fierce contention with the artillery and the dragoons ; thou- sands of camp followers pressed on the rear of these, until the passage was completely choked up ; and some shells from the Russian batteries, which were now engaged with Ney and Oudinot, falling amongst them, completed the panic and struck terror into every heart. Hundreds perished by the hands of their comrades in this strife, and the bodies of the dead men and horses were so heaped up at the head of the bridge, that every avenue to it was choked. Over this pile of the dying and the dead the strongest climbed, kicking from them with violence the frantic beings, who, weaker than themselves, and struggling in the agonies of death, clung to their feet in the hope of extri- cating themselves. The women and children, who had escaped so many dis- asters, seem to have been preserved only to suffer here a death still more terrific. " We saw them," Avrites La- baume, ''rushing from the baggage waggons and falling in agonies of tears at the feet of the first soldier they met, imploring his assistance to reach the other side. The sick and the wounded sitting on the trunks of the trees, or supported by their crutches, anxiously looked around them for some friend to help them. But their cries were lost
Bussia.
EOUTE 103. — MOSCOW TO ODESSA.
605
in the air. No one remembered his dearest friend ; his own preservation absorbed every thought. More than 20,000 sick and wounded and 200 pieces of cannon fell into the enemy's hands, and 36,000 bodies were found after the thaw in the river; the num- ber of killed was never accurately ascer- tained. From Borisof the remnants of the army pursued their way to AVilna, meeting at every step with fresh dis- asters.
Shodln, 19^.
Smolevitshi, 18.
Ticchnoflca, 15|.
Minsk, 21^. On the Svenlosh. There are some fine buildings here amongst the palaces of the nobility. Business seems to be almost exclusively in the hands of the Jews, Avho are met at every step dressed in their long black caftans and black fur caps. The women are handsome, and appear on Saturdays decked out in all their finery ; an embroidered velvet cap which they wear is generally orna- mented with seed pearls and precious stones.
Prihthi, I65.
Koidcvnovo, 24|.
Agatino, 20^.
Novo Soershen, 16f .
Neswish, 25. A small town.
Snof, 21 i_.
JStolovitshi, 24^.
Polonka, 21^.
Dzjadi, 13i.
Slonim, 15. A small town on the river Sezara, in Lithuania. In an ac- tion fought here by Prince Radzivil against the forces of Catherine II., in 1764, two ladies of the highest rank appeared in the field. One was sister to the prince, the other his wife. The latter, scarcely seventeen years of age, fought on horseback, and with a pistol in her hand encouraged the troops to do their duty. "When the Russians ob- tained the victory, she saved her life by swimming her horse across the river Niemen.
Meshevitshi, 19|.
Rushana, 16.
Michailino, 20 j.
Voroshhiti, 19.
Prushaki, 19|. a small town.
Gorodetshna, 12\.
KoBRiP, 22^. A small town.
Kruiytsldnshaia, 134.
Bulkof, 154.
Brest, 21^. On crossing the Polish frontier the usual search takes place, and the passport is signed.
Tirespol, 4,
Salesje, 24.
Biala, 16.
Mendsirshez, 23 1.
Shutshin, 24 4.
Sedlze, 14|.
Mingosi, 16.
Kaluzshin, 18. Government of Jla- sovia.
Minsk, 16^.
Milovna, 22|.
Warsaw, 141. Total, 1278i. For description of "Warsaw see p. 591.
EOUTE 103.
MOSCOW TO ODESSA BY TULA, KHAKK- HOFF, OREL, AND NICOLAIEFP.
The journey to Odessa from Moscow will occupj'- about fourteen travelling days. If the traveller can obtain a cou- rier from the post-office, he will accom- plish the journey in less time, and will be saved a multitude of miseries. Alter- cations with postmasters, or the govern- ment officers, at the post stations should be avoided, more especially if it be a rule of the travellers never to be imposed upon ; a hot temper is a bad companion in steppe travelling. It will, too, be idle and unwise to fume and fuss, and talk of reporting if the post-horses do not come out as quick as they do in other countries. Those of the government couriers do not make their appearance under twenty minutcf?. If the traveller stops at night and sleeps in the post- house, it will be well to pay a man to take care of the carriage during the night. If the springs have too much
606
KOUTE 103. — MOSCOW TO ODESSA.
Sect. V.
play, they should be corded. (For further information on this subject, see preliminary information, p. 405, et seq.)
Moscow to —
Podolsk, 35. Grood inn on the left, half Avay up the town. Cross the river. This is a post-royal, consequently double the charge.
Lopassnia, 32. The road is mac- adamised between Podolsk and Ser- puchof
Serpuchof, 27. Eoad excellent, through a forest. The town prettily situated. Inn capital ; from hence the post-houses are execrable.
Vcdmenski Savod, Sl^. The road is heavy. The view from the hill above the river Oka, looking back upon Serpuchof, is very beautiful.
Vasliani, 19^. Execrable post- house.
Volotja, 22. A little better accom- modation. In all the post-houses be- tween Moscow and Tula, hardware nick-nacks are to be found^ all made at the latter place.
Tula, 13. The Russian Birming- ham ; a town of 36,000 inhabitants ; on an insignificant stream, the Oopa. It is famed for its manufactory of fire- arms and hardware. Tula was founded by Peter the Great, in 1712, and has been twice destroyed by fire during the reign of the present emperor ; the last time in 1834, when a large por- tion of its inhabitants were reduced to beggary. The manufactory of fire- arms is worth visiting. The new works, erected under the superintend- ence of Mr. Trewheller, an Eng- lishman, made this establishment one of the first in Europe. The lathes are turned by water, which runs through iron cylinders large enough for a man to walk in nearly upright ; and, by means of a warming apparatus, the working of these lathes is not inter- rupted by any degree of frost. The muskets are neatly made, but do not carry with the same degree of pre- cision as an English one. As many
as 7000 persons are employed in this establishment. An immense trade is car- ried on here in samovars ; the cutlery is very inferior. The ornamental steel work is far inferior to that of Prussia; and the Platina snuff-boxes to those of Moscow. There are iron mines in the neighbourhood. No bread will be met with between this and Orel.
Jassnaia Poliana, 17. Post-house bad.
Solova, 18. Post fairish. Poad
hilly.
Sergiefscoi, 24|. Post-house exe- crable. This village belongs to a Prince Gargarin; his house is on the right above it, and looks well. The inhabitants are in a very destitute state ; the dirt snd filth inconceivable, and beggars by hundreds. The tra- veller will do well to compare the con- dition of this village with those of the Crown near Volki, two stages from Karkhoff; he cannot fail to remark how much better off the Crown pea- sant is to that of the noble.
Skuratovo Malencoi, 25.}. Post- house so-so. Road tolerable.
Skuratovo Bolshoi, 18. The post- house bad, and swarming with cock- roaches.
Mtsensk, 252. Road horrible, with ravines. Post-house passable.
Otrada, 27. Road bad.
Orel, 25. A large town on the Oka. The streets horribly paved. The post-house execrable ; but the inn to the right near it very fair. The public gardens are prettily laid out, and the view from them gaod. This town was destroyed by fire on the 7th of June, 1848, and most of the inhabitants lost all they possessed. Upwards ot 1237 houses, including 50 of stone; 80,000 tchetverts of grain, 100,000 puds of peas, and four bridges, were de- stroyed. The four stone churches were much injured. The whole of this loss was officially estimated at 3,425,000 silver rubles. The emperor forwarded the sum of 50,000 rubles to be distri-
Russia.
ROUTE ]03. — MOSCOW TO ODESSA.
607
buted amongst the poorer people, and the ministers also sent 10,000 rubles for the same purpose.
Chotetovo, 23. Horrible road, and at a village four miles from the town almost impassable.
Mocressi, 25. Post so-so. Road bad.
Otshi, 25.
Olchovatla, 16. Post pretty good. Road horrible.
Sorocovi Colodetz, 21. Post-house so-so.
IsaJcievsTci Dvori, 23. Post-house bad. Road ditto.
KouRSK, 17. A large town. The post-house is very tolerable. White bread can be procured here.
Selichova Dvori, 17. The road from Koursk to this place is in some parts very bad, particularly near the river ; extra horses are necessary in the best weather, in consequence of the heavy sand.
Medvenca, 18. Post fairish. Road ditto.
Obojan, 24. Post-house good. This is a small town.
Kotshetvi Dvori, 18. Post-house so-so. Road hilly, from ravines.
Jacavlevo, 20. Post bad. Road hillj"-, and not unlike a ploughed field.
Belgorod, 28. A small town.
Tsherevioshnaje, 26. Post so-so.
Lipsi, 22. Post-house good.
Karkhofp, 28. Hotel in the great square, near and on the same side as the Chamber of the Noblesse ; it is not so good as the one at Orel. The uni- versity is worthy of a visit; and if during the fair, which is in the month of May, the jewellers' and other shops. A great deal of business is done here in wool. The fair lasts a fortnight. The Russian baths are pretty good ; an ordi- nary warm bath may also be had. The public gardens are pretty; they are close to the Institnt des Demoiselles Nohles, the wall of separation has a chevaux de frise on the top, and two soldiers stand sentry at the gate, rather an odd accompaniment to a ladies'
school ; it is explained by its being a government establishment. The Chinese pagoda in these gardens cost 30,000 rubles; it is very much defaced with scribbling. The theatre is small, but the acting was, when we visited it, very respectable. The environs of the town are pretty. From hence to Odessa travellers must post, or take Jews' horses, for the diligence goes no farther.
Liiibolin, 20. Road from Khark- hoff very sandy, and extra horses are frequently required.
Valid, 28. Post-house pretty good. The villages near here belong to the Crown, and are in excellent order, particularly the one on leaving the town. Ice may be generally procured in the summer at almost every cot- tage.
ColomaJc, 25. The post-house clean. Employe civil.
Vanioffka, 25. "Wretched post- house.
Dudnikqf,ld. Horrible road. Post- house bad.
PuLTAVA, 20. Post-house execrable. The town is not fortified. The iron column erected to commemorate the defeat of Charles XII. is an ill-pro- portioned monument; it is surmounted by a helmet with the vizor down. In looking at it, our sympathies are awakened in favour of the glorious madman, who, with the exception of Patkul's execution, committed few un- justifiable acts, and certainly had many fine points of character. Pultava stands splendidly on a high hill ; close to it is another, crowned by a church. The river Bursk runs at the foot of these hills, and crosses the marshy plain to the wood beyond. It must have been a desperate place to storm, without proper means, and nothing but the wretched position the army of Charles was in, cut off from his sup- plies, and but a very few rations in camp, made such an attempt justifiable. The battle of 1709 was fought in a plain about four miles S.W. of the town.
6oa
KOUTE 103. MOSCOW TO ODESSA.
Sect. V.
A mound of earth about 40 feet in height, surmounted by a cross, covers the bodies of the Swedes who fell, and serves to mark the centre of the field. The pools and morasses here yield large quantities of leeches, which are despatched across the whole length of the continent to Hamburgh, for ex- portation ; a thousand leeches are some- times sold at Pultava for a silver ruble. The imperial garden is an agreeable promenade.
Extra horses are positively neces- sary from DudnikoiT, the wheels being up to the axles in sand. We fairly stuck, and were drawn out by oxen. The road close to the town is per- fectly disgraceful ; the worst part being within the gates.
Kuralechovo, 17. Post-house bad. Wretched road.
ReshetilovJca , 18. Post-house bad.
KorolevsJci, Trahtir, 18. Post-house bad.
Pdshani PosJci, 23. Post-house wretched.
Omelnilc, 12. Between this and the last post the carriage of the emperor was once upset, a fact which the pos- tillion recounts to every traveller. The road is very ma^sh3^ At the 8th verst there is an execrable bridge, the approach on each side being infamous.
Krementschuk, 22. Signifying '^ the city of fire-stones." A town on the Dnieper. The post-house so-so. The river, which runs at a sharp rate, is passed by ferry boats. We crossed it in May, and saw no bridge, and from the great width, doubt whether there is one more advanced in the season. The banks are not unlike those of the Ganges. The ferry presents a very animated appearance.
Svetaja BalU, 24 1. Road through a track of heavy sand, a fine view of the town and river.
Alexandria, 27. Post-house pretty good. Pass the river. Vast numbers of the spotted earth hares are seen.
Novaga Praga, 21.
Adjiamca, 23. A military colony;
the cavalry may be seen at exercise in the morning. The post-house so-so.
Elizavetgrad, 22. This town is the head-quarters of the military colo- nies on this side the river Bug. To the military man this establishment is particularly interesting ; a letter of introduction will procure favourable reception from the officer in com- mand. At the last review of Vos- nesensk 80,000 cavalry were present, all drawn from these colonies. The Hulans are perfect, the discipline is good, and the men are remarkably well mounted. The post-house so-so.
Tumuli begin to be numerous here ; when opened they have generally produced quantities of horses' teeth and bones, but, we believe, no coins. At the period to which these tumuli belong, the Scj'thians had no money, and no knowledge of the arts. The tumuli in Avhich coins, &c., have been found further south, were the burying-places of the Scythian heroes who joined themselves to the colonists from Magna Grecia, and who left Athens about the time of Pericles. These colonists and the Scythians adopted many of each other's customs.
Kamiyaniefka, 24 j. Bad ford.
/ The steppe Bohrineiz, 24 4- here is hard GromoJcleia, 15j. \ and good, and Mahsiraovha, 19. j'^ou may gallop ^all the way.
Post-house bad
Wretched post-
This town covers each house being
Vodianaia, 16 3.
Veilandova, 20j. enough.
Kandihino, 23. house.
NiCOLAIEFF, 24. an immense extent, generally of one story, with large gar- dens attached to it, and streets of enormous width. The houses are well white-washed and yellow- washed, and look much more cheerful than those of other towns. The rivers Bug and In- gul, which unite below the town, form a fine estuary, in which during winter the Black Sea fleet station. The Boulevard,
Eiissia.
ROUTE 103. — ODESSA.
609
near tlie river, is well planted, and forms a shrubbery to the water's edge. This and other improvements were effected under the government of Admiral Greig, who was also Admiral of the Black Sea fleet. His father's services and his own are too well known to need comment hero ; it must be gratif}^- ing to every Englishman to find that his countryman raised this place to its present position. The objects most wor- thy of notice are the Dockyards, which, however, the traveller must not expect to find like those of Portsmouth or Ply- mouth. The machinery used here is, with one exception, English. The model room is also worthy of a visit; in passing through it the traveller will observe a vessel rigged and ready for sea. Upon this the naval cadets gain a knowledge of ropes, yards, and sails, &c., &c. The Observatory is situated a short distance from the town ; the astro- nomer, a Livonian and a very clever man, is always glad to show it. The view from the roof is fine. The bar- racks for the seamen are very exten- sive ; they were built by an English architect residing here ; he, as well as all Englishmen we met in Russia, are anxious to be of service to any travel- ler who may fall in their way. Most of the naval architects receive their education in England, and speak the language. The post-house is execrable ; but private lodgings are to be procured. The governor's house was built by Po- temkin ; in the garden is a Montague Kusse built of wood. The present com- mander of the Black Sea fleet is Ad- miral Lazzareff, who served in the Eng- lish navy. In bad weather the river is rather rough at the ferry. The inn on the opposite side of it is better than any in the town ; it is kept by a German and his wife ; it was clean, and but for the inconvenience of cross- ing to visit the town, would be the best place to put up at. The toll is a mere trifle, 35 silver kopeks for a car- riage ; great care was taken of the car- riage by the ferryman. For those per-
sons who wish to visit the Crimea and return by steamer to Odessa, this will be the place to turn off at. They will pass by Howard's tomb, no small ob- ject of interest to his countrymen, to Cherson, a town now nearly deserted, but once a naval station ; the rope- walk is nearly all that remains of its Admiralty. From thence the tra- veller should make his way by Perecop and Sevastopol through the Crimea.
The distance from Nicolaieff to the ferry is four versts.
Warvarof/ca, 23.
Shermelei, 25.
Krasnoi TraJdir, 22.
CohlefJca, 22. Called so after Gene- ral Cobley, an Englishman in the Rus- sian service, who had an estate here.
Adgelik, 28.
Odessa, 18. Total, 1371^ versts. The town is about four versts from the Custom-house barrier. Hotels : Hotel DE LoNDKES, ou the Boulevard, the best ; Hotel de Paris ; Hotel de Richelieu. For further information see Preliminary Information, p. 400, et seq.
This, the principal mercantile city in this part of Russia, is situated on the northern shore of the Black Sea, and, as a residence, there is nothing to ren- der it agreeable to the traveller. The climate is very unequal, and, being built on a limestone cliff of a very crumbling nature, the dust during summer is not onl}'- injurious to the eyes, but almost insupportable. In winter the thermometer falls to 23^ below Zero of Reaumur, and in spring the streets are full of mud and sludge. The state of the streets, which are not paved, may be imagined by the follow- ing carica.ture, which we once saw when residing in this city : a Frenchman, just arrived from Marseilles, is repre- sented sticking up to his knees in the mud, and exclaiming '' Je me fixe id," and under this was written — " How to establish oneself at Odessa."
The Turks had a fortress here, called Khodja Bey, and when taken from
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them by Catherine, it Avas named by her Odessus. Admiral Ribas was the first person who made any improve- ments, but he was thwarted in his plans. In the year 1803 his mea- sures were renewed ; the population, however, was not formed of the best materials, being composed of adven- turers from all parts of the Levant, run- away serfs, and other itinerant persons. When the Emperor Paul ascended the throne, he gave the town considerable privileges, but its prosperity is chiefly owing to the Duke de Kichelieu, a French emigrant, who was subsequently appointed governor, and who, by his judicious administration, brought the commerce of the town into a very flourishing state. The principal streets were laid out by him, and his amiable and charitable disposition was such, that his departure was sincerely regretted by all classes. With every opportunitj'' of enriching himself, he is said to have left Odessa with a small portmanteau con- taining his uniform and two shirts, the greater part of his income having been disbursed in relieving the distresses of a portion of the population, who were always arriving in the greatest state of destitution. The port was made free in 1819, and in 1822, a nmiour having spread that the freedom was about to be abolished, the foreign merchants were on the point of quitting the town, when the order was rescinded, and Count Langeron, the governor, who had advocated this measure, dismissed. The port has remained free up to the present time, and, through the exer- tions of Count Woronzoff, has become the most flourishing port in the Black Sea. His house, a princely mansion, is on the cliff at the end of the Boulevard, and when resident here, he is particularly attentive to English- men passing through. The Exchange is situated at the other extremity of the Boulevard ; the interior is handsome ; balls are held in the principal room during the winter season, and are very numerously attended. The Theatre is
in the large squate, near the Hotel de Kichelieu. Italian operas and French plays are performed here throughout the year. There is likewise a Rus- sian theatre. The principal promenade is on the Boulevard, which, on Saturday evenings, is, by a sort of common con- sent, left to the Jews, who reside here in great numbers. A military band performs three times a week during the summer ; a stranger may then see, in one cov/p d'ceil, all the elite of the place. There is in the centre of this walk a bronze statue of the Duke de Kichelieu ; he is looking towards the sea and facing a monster staircase, which has been built on arches, and reaches from the Boulevard to the shore ; this has cost an enor- mous sum of money, and its strength as well as use is so problematical, that an Odessa wag observed, that Kichelieu would in all probability be the first person to descend it. The museum and library are in the same house with the bureau of the military governor, situated opposite the Hotel de Peters- bourg, and in the very centre of the Boulevard. The library is small but well chosen : the museum contains many objects of antiquity from the site of ancient Greek colonies in this part of the world, particularly from those of Olbia, the Chersonesus, Kertch, Sisopolis, &c., &c. Some of the vases and medals are worthy of observation, and a gold one of the time of Alexan- der is in remarkable preservation. And last, though not least in interest, is a japanned flat candlestick, once the pro- perty of the philanthropic Howard ; it is preserved with great care. The sight of this relic will call up a host of feelings connected with the remem- brance of his fate, and emotions of ad miration and respect for his unwearied exertions in the cause of humanity. Howard's last words to his friend Priestman are characteristic — ''Let no monument or monumental inscription whatsoever mark the spot where I am buried ; lay me quietly in the earth,,
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place a sundial over my grave, and let me be forgotten." And truly this re- markable man seems to be forgotten. His remains lie mouldering in the steppe near Cherson, and those who pass by his tomb, are alike ignorant of his virtues and his name. Why are not his ashes vi^ith the good and great in his own country 1 The librarian, a Monsieur Spada, is generally to be found in attendance between 12 and 2 o'clock. Some of the granaries in Odessa ai'e worthy of notice ; they are remarkably well built with the stone found here ; that of Saban- sky, now a school-house, on the ravine, is of immense extent, and has an imposing appearance from the streets looking towards the Lazaret. The public slaughtering houses are on a large scale, many thousands of cattle are there boiled down for the tallow ; it is a singular but not a very agree- able spectacle. Droshkis are to be found at every corner ; they have gene- rally two horses; the fare is from 18 to 30 silver kopeks the hour. The drivers go at railroad pace. A drive to the race-course or the villas on the sea coast, about two versts from the town, will pass away a few hours. Favoured as Odessa is by its position on the sea, it is surrounded on the land side by a dreary steppe of so intracta- ble a soil, that trees and shrubs, with the exception of the acacia, rarely at- tain any size, and in many places will not even live. The narrow strip along the sea shore above mentioned is the only oasis of vegetation in the neigh- bourhood of the city. There is also another and a greater evil, the want of fresh water ; the greater part, in- deed ner.rly all of this necessary of life, is brought in carts from a dis- tance of several versts. Artesian borings have been made in the town to a depth of 600 feet, but hitherto without success. Fuel is also very dear. Odessa enjoys an etahlusement des Bains, situated at the foot of the Boulevard, which is much frequented
during the summer months, especially by Poles, who come here to sell their corn, and disburse theirmoney in piano- fortes, English agricultural implements, &c. The accommodation at the baths is indifferent, but the charges are very low, the admittance being only four- pence each person; chocolate, coifee, and confectionary may be had, but nothing of a more substantial nature. The Andrieffsky salt baths, on a liman about seven versts from the town, are in great vogue; lodgings are easily ob- tained there.
German waters are sold at an esta- blishment in the town garden. An- other institution which may be interest- ing to the stranger is the Richelieu Lyceum, a commercial college, in which the sciences and ancient and modern languages are taught by professors, chiefly Gferman. There is, perhaps, no town in the world in which so many different tongues may be heard as in the streets and coffee-houses of Odessa. A Avalk to the Parlatoire of the Quarantine will enable the traveller to hear them in perfection ; this is the place where the captains of vessels and the brokers and merchants of the town meet to settle their business : and here in little cells, but separated from one another by a wire grating, so that no contact can take place, parties can dis- cuss their affairs without being over- heard. There is a botanical garden near Odessa, hut the difficulties of soil, drought, and frost are highly injurious to the growth of plants. The Greek and other bazaars merit attention, par- ticularly to a person landing here ; there is no regular Gosiinnoi Dvor as in other cities, but the Privosdni Ba- zaar is an excellent spot for observing local and national peculiarities, espe- cially of the Moldavians, Jews, and Gypsies. The latter are, for the most part, smiths ; they ^live in tents, eat hedgehogs, and hocuss as in other countries. Q"'he women braid their hair into twenty tails like the Tartars, smoke all day long, and, notwithstand-
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ing their wild and savage appearance, are not destitute of beauty ; they have fine black eyes, and well-propor- tioned figures. There are, in the neigh- bourhood of Odessa, large vineyards. In that of Count "Woronzoflf are from 60,000 to 80,000 vines ; the wine made from these grapes is not so good as that of the Crimea. Vast numbers of me- lons aro also raised in the gardens in the environs of the city ; some of them are of the most delicious flavour, and so cheap that half the population live upon them and black bread during the summer ; the universal favourite is the water melon, which, if placed in ice for a short time before dinner, is in this season a most grateful fruit. The stone fruit is very poor.
Should the traveller require any ad- vice or assistance during his stay in Odessa, we would recommend him to make the acquaintance of the British Consul - General there, Mr. Yeames, the most intellectual and kind-hearted Englishman in Russia; the stranger will, in this gentleman's society, learn more about the country he is going to, or has explored, in one hour than he will, by his own exertions, in one year.
ROUTE 104.
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There 'are only two reasons which arc likely to induce the Englishman to visit Odessa — business or excessive curiosity. If it should be the former, we think that a short trip to the Crimea will repay him for his trouble ; if the latter, a month may be passed there with profit and pleasure, provided al- ways th:it it is in the summer season: he will revel in fine scenery, become acquainted with an oriental people, the Tartars, and see Sevastopol, the great naval station and Gibraltar of the Black Sea. We have remarked else- where, and we again refer the stranger to page 408 for information as to the best mode of proceeding to Krim Tar-
tary, namely, by the steamboat, which leaves Odessa every fortnight. The vessel is generally crowded with pas- sengers, and in their society, frequently the elite of that of the town, pleasure and amusement may be anticipated. The voyage, apparently for the benefit of the steward, is so arranged that it shall require two dinners to be eaten before reaching the destined haven ot Yalta, where persons generally dis- embark; the traveller, however, who is fond of antiquities had better proceed direct to Kertch, and remain there till the steamer returns from thence, when he can steam back by it to Yalta, and there commence his explorations in the interior.
In approaching the Crimea, it is hj no means the nearest land which first comes in sight, but rather the centre of the Peninsula, whose lofty mountains stand out in bold relief and refresh the sight, which has for days dwelt on the flat tame steppe which surrounds Odessa. When the steamer stops at Sevastopol the first view of the coast will be Cape Chersonesus, which has a light-house on it ; near this and in the cliff may be discovered, with the as- sistance of a glass, the convent of St. George and the promontory on which the temple of which Iphigenia was priestess was situated. A view ot this edifice by those who navigated these seas in this lady's time must have been far from agreeable, for in this temple, it is said, that shipwrecked tourists were wont to be sacrificed by her in compliance with the commands of Diana. The scenery from hence down the coast is highly interesting and picturesque ; the slope formed by the range of hills towards the sea being covered by Tartar villages, vine- yards, and country seats.
The summits of these mountains are crowned with forests, but their sides are in many cases quite precipitous and devoid of trees or any vegetation, their gray and rugged masses contrasting well and powerfully with the rich cul-
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tivation at their base. The splendid Grothic chateau of Count WoronzoiF is the last object of attraction before entering the small bay of Yalta, and its toAvers look well, surrounded by a southern foliage, and contrasting with the minarets of an adjacent mosque. The steamer remains at Yalta to coal, after which she continues her voyage to Kertch, keeping near the coast all the way to that town. The headlands after leaving Yalta are very bold, particularly that of the Bear, and remind one of the cliffs on the N. coast of Ireland. If the steam- boat leaves Yalta about mid-day, it will in fair weather reach Theodosia after dark. This town was once a great commercial mart of the Genoese, and some part of the fortifications erected by them are still to be seen near the harbour; the port is con- sidered the best on this coast of the Crimea, after that of Sevastopol. The next morning the town of Kertch, situ- ated on the straits which join the Black Sea to that of Azoff, will heave in sight; the hill on the left, called Mithridates, is, with the exception of the numerous tumuli, the only eleva- tion that breaks the dreary waste of steppe ; the roads, however, are gene- rally full of shipping, as all vessels that intend to enter the Sea of Azoff are obliged to quarantine here. On landing at Kertch, the traveller had better make his way to the house of the English vice-consul, who will in- form him where to put up ; in our own case, that gentleman's hospitality saved us from a Russian third-rate hotel, called the Club.
The most interesting object at Kertch is the museum, in which is a collection of medals, Greek vases, sarcophagi, gems, gold ornaments, amphorae, glass, and other antiquities, which have been dug out of the tumuli in the neigh- bourhood. The ear-rings, bracelets, and bangles found in these mounds are of exquisite workmanship, and afford strong evidence of the wealth and re-
finement of the inhabitants of the an- cient and once powerful city of Panti- capaeum : the gold is without alloy. The Tartars have a tradition that up- wards of 40 puds, 1400 lbs. English, of this precious metal, in ornaments and coins, were excavated from a tu- mulus in the neighbourhood, which they still call in consequence the Golden Hill. There are Roman as well as Greek remains in this collec- tion, but the latter prevail, the Ro- mans not having had possession of this part of the world till after the defeat of Pharnaces by Caesar, the occasion on which he dictated his famous letter to the Roman Senate, "Veni, vidi, vici."
At some distance from the museum is the staircase of Mithridates, leading up to the hill of that name, which, like the Mons Testaceus at Rome, is com- posed of broken pottery. Half-way up the Hill of Mithridates is a Boulevard planted with trees, and on it is a whitewashed fac-simile of the Temple of Theseus, intended for a museum ; but what a contrast to the original, on which, for ages past, a ray of each succeeding sunset seems to have rested, and created that rich and golden tint which so much enhances its beauty ! There is also on this hill a stone seat somewhat rudely shaped like a chair, and cut out of the rock ; on it Mithridates is said to have sat when he reviewed his troops, previously to his last expedition against the Romans. At Yeni Kale, the an- cient Myrmecium, at the further ex- tremity of the straits, is a fort, and in it a sarcophagus mentioned by Clarke. On the road there is one of the most re- markable of the tumuli that cover the plain ; it was originally 350 feet in diameter, and concealed a mausoleum, the entrance to which is a gallery 36 paces long, lined with solid masonry of hewn stone, admirably fitted. The mausoleum is square, the walls being about seven feet in height, with a su- perstructure rising from them which is gradually worked into a cone of pecu-
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liar form, each stone in every layer being made to project a certain pro- portion of its length beyond the one beneath it. The holes in the masonry at the end of the gallery, which origin- ally received the hinges of the door, still remain. It is said this tumulus was opened by the Tartars, who sunk a shaft from the centre, but, birds having built in the opening for many years, rubbish accumulated, and the Genoese, not discerning this, drove a shaft horizontally, till they arrived in the chamber, when they found out that others had preceded them in the work of spoliation. The Tartars had of course left nothing behind them of value. Frogs, sheep, and cattle are now the inhabitants of this place of sepulture.
The inhabitants of Yeni Kale are of Greek descent. Persons going to the Kuban or Tiflis, the mineral baths at Petigorski, which are of great reputa- tion, take boat here; the distance to the other side of the straits is about 11 English miles. The volcanoes of mud about a mile from the fort are curious. This part of the country, as well as the island of Taman opposite, is rich in pitch springs, which run freely in a cutting of three feet; sulphur is also deposited in large quantities. From hence is a good view of the Sea of Azoff, which generally looks turgid and still. Should the traveller desire to extend his journey to Taganrog, at its eastern extremity, he can reach that place by a steamer, from Kertch, and proceed thence to Orenburgh, and, if he pleases, to Siberia or China. As there is nothing but a steppe to tra- verse between Kertch and Theodosia, it is better to return to Yalta by the steamer. There is a tolerable inn at the latter place, but, as soon as pos- sible after his arrival, we recommend the stranger to procure a European saddle, obtain an order for post horses, or rather ponies, and mounted on one, with his carpet bags and guide on the other, to take the road to Sevastopol by the coast. The first large residence
on leaving Yalta is Livadia, the seat of Count Potocki. The park and land below the house are Imperial property. The scenery along this coast seen from the sea is remarkably striking, but when passing through it nothing can be imagined more enchanting. The winter, which is severe on the northern side of this range of mountains, is scarcely felt here. On the coast, as well as in the valleys, every kind of fruit, shrub, and forest tree is to be found; in fact, a more abundant and varied vegetation we do not remember to have seen elsewhere. Amongst the fruit trees may be cited the vine, olive, pomegranate, figs, nut and standard peach, nectarine, and apricot. The walnut is particularly large in its growth, and may be called a forest tree. The shrubs are beautiful, and include the juniper, laurel, &c. ; and on many of the trees in the hedgerows, for there is a great deal of fencing, the wild hop and vine may be seen climb- ing from one to the other, mingling with the clematis and forming the most graceful festoons.
The next estate to Livadia is that of the late Count de Witte, governor of the military colonies. The count was a native of Holland, and the house is in the Dutch taste. Near here is a Tartar village, the flat roofs of the houses in which are so curiously placed against the mountain side, that a per- son coming down it might easily walk or ride on to the top of one without being the least aware of it. Alupka, the splendid residence of Count Woronzoff, will be reached in the course of the afternoon. In the architecture, the Elizabethan is blend- ed with the Oriental ; the material, a greenish porphyry, was taken from the crater of an extinct volcano, at the back of the house or, rather palace; the turrets, tracery, mullions, coins, and other ornamental parts of the building are all of the same stone, which is exceedingly hard and difficult to work. The dining-room is of splen-
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did dimensions, and lighted by two immense windows overlooking the sea ; the groined ceiling is of oak, and the wall opposite the windows is orna- mented with two fountains of elegant form in a dove-coloured marble, with dark red veins, peculiar to the Crimea. These fountains play at all times, being fed by a crystal rill from the moun- tains, and must have a delightful eifect on an atmosphere of hot dishes. The terrace in front of the chateau is orna- mented with orange trees and other choice plants ; the gardens are well laid out but small, in consequence of the plateau of land on which the house stands being circumscribed by the sud- den rise of the mountains at the back, and the precipitous fall of the ground towards the sea in front. The orna- mental water is full of trout. This palace was built under the personal superintendence of Mr. Hunt, an Eng- lishman, after Mr. Blore's designs, and the whole reflects great credit on the taste and judgment of those gentlemen.
The noble owner delights, as well he may, in Alupka ; should he be there when the traveller is passing, we strongly recommend him to pay his respects to the Count ; a hospitable re- ception will assuredly be his lot.
The rocks at Yamen, about 30 versts from Alupka, are remarkable, but the country there is more arid and the vegetation less abundant. At Mukalatka the coast is left, and the traveller, ascending by an almost per- pendicular road hollowed out of the rocky mountain, which is very appro- priately called the Devil's Staircase, strikes into the forest of Baidar ; this extends to the village of the same name, a distance of 7 versts. The branches of the trees along this road meet overhead, and form an agreeable shade from the rays of the mid-day sun, which in the summer are rather oppres- sive. Chevreuil are said to abound here, and red deer and bears are sometimes to be met with. The valley of Baidar is pretty, but it requires a good deal of
enthusiasm and imagination to see in it either a " Tauric Arcadia" or a " Crimean Tempo." The next place is Balaclava, a small seaport and the head quarters of a regiment of Arna- outs colonized here. There are the towers of a Genoese fortress on the hill at the entrance of the harbour.
The picturesque ceases at Balaclava : beyond it the country, though undu- lating, is devoid of trees, and the vege- tation is parched up. The convent of St. George is about an hour's ride from the Greek colony ; it is curiously built against the cliff overhanging the sea; but, with the exception of the singularity of its position,- it has nothing to recom- mend it. Night will bring the way- farer to Sevastopol. The inn there is detestable ; we remember with grati- tude being relieved from the necessity of enduring for more than one night its vile impurities, by Col. Upton, the dis- tinguished civil engineer, who built the docks here for the Russian Government. These are worthy of inspection ; they are five in number, and placed on two sides of a quadrangular basin ; the centre one in the rear is capable of receiving a first-rate of the largest size ; two are for seventj^-four gun ships, and the remaining two for frigates. As there is no tide, the lock principle has been adopted in the construction of these docks. The bottom of each is three feet above the level of the sea, and the ships are raised into the dock-basin by a series of three locks, each having a rise of ten feet ; the surface of the water, therefore, in the dock-basin is thirty feet above the level of the sea. Each dock can be laid dry by means of a subterranean drain, the sluice-valve of which, being opened, carries off the water into the sea ; by this means each dock may be used separately, and a ship taken in or out without inter- fering with the others. The dock-basin is supplied with water by means of a canal from the Tcherney-Ruilka {the Black River), which commences at the village of Tchergana, at which point it E E 2
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has an elevation of about 62 feet above the level of the sea. This canal is about 10 feet wide, and 18 versts long, with a fall of a foot and a half in each verst ; it leads into a reser- voir about 8 versts from its commence- ment. Should the rivulet fail in the dry season, this reservoir contains a sufficient body of water to supply the dock-basin ; but there is a much larger one between the hills above the head of the canal. The line of the canal from the river to the docks runs over very difficult ground, chiefly by the sides of steep hills, and crosses many deep ravines. To remove these obstacles, and preserve a regular fall, it became necessary to construct an em- bankment, three aqueducts, and two tunnels. The tunnel at Inkerman, which we visited, is about 300 yards long, and cut through a mass of free- stone. But the great difficulty Avas to obtain a foundation for the first, or sea- lock. When the coffer-dam was made, and the water pumped out, which was not much more than 7 feet deep, an excavation of 20 feet was necessary, as the foundation of the lock is nearly 30 feet below the level of the water in the bay: this ground, composed of blackmud and sand, when cleared out to about half the depth, was forced upwards by the pressure of the earth at the sides, so that what was dug out in the day was filled up again in the night. To over- come this difficulty, it was necessary to drive the piles intended for the founda- tion over the whole surface of the lock, and the earth was taken out to the required depth across its whole breadth. This could only be done in narrow portions of about 8 or 10 feet wide; the piles were then cut to the proper depth, the framework put on, and the masonry commenced ; this was re- peated by degrees, till the whole was finished. It would appear almost im- possible to have accomplished this diffi- cult point any other way. The ma- terials employed in the construction of the docks are freestone and granite;
the latter is used at the gates, for the blocks on which the ships will rest in the docks, and for the whole of the upper course of the locks, docks, and dock- basin, — in short, wherever there is great pressure, or liability to receive heavy concussions. The masonry is beauti- fully fitted, and the whole of the cap- stans and machinery of the locks are of English manufacture. The filter for watering the shipping is supplied by the same canal which feeds the dock- basin, and the water passes through charcoal and sand; this building is neatly constructed. The fortifications are also worthy of notice; the three prin- cipal works, which command the ap- proach, entrance, and interior of this har- bour, are Forts Alexander, on the right, Constantine, on the left, and Nicholas at the base of the hill on which the town stands. The principle of the casemate has been adopted very ge- nerally in these works. There seems little chance of their ever being taken. They are said to have cost Russia 5,000,000 rubles.
The church near the Lazaret, built with the materials that remained of the ancient cities of the Chersonesus, is said to have been erected by Vladimir, the first Christian Tzar ; portions of the entablatures and columns of temples may be seen in the walls.
It is worth while to row up the bay to Inkerman to see the chapels and chambers excavated in the rocks there. They are cut out of the freestone, and are said to have been inhabited by the Arians, who retired here to escape persecution. Near this is the tunnel of the aqueduct which supplies the docks at Sevastopol. Returning from hence the traveller should take a pull about the harbour, one of the finest in the world; the depth of water is so great, that line-of-battle ships of the largest size lie close to the shore. The Russian fleet is laid up here during the winter, when the crews go into their barracks. There is a direct car- riage road from hence to the Tartar
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617
town of Bagtche Serai, once the capital of the Crimea — the traveller's next point, and a long day's journey. But we would recommend him to take the more circuitous route by Mangoup Kale ; at 10 versts from Sevastopol the reservoir which feeds the docks is passed, the road then winds through several beautiful valleys covered with fine walnut trees, and the afternoon will not be far advanced when the mountain of Mangoup will be seen rising majestically from the glen at its base. The town of Mangoup belonged at different periods to the Greeks, the Grenoese, and the Karaite Jews, a tribe peculiar to the Crimea, who follow the law of Moses, reject the traditions of the elders, adopt many of the habits of the Mahommedan, and are a remark- ably fine race of men. A guide to the ruins and excavations at the summit of this mountain will be necessary, for the ascent is steep and difficult ; half- way up, the road runs through a ceme- tery of these Karaite Jews, contain- ing many thousand tomb-stones, of cof- fin shape, covered with Hebrew inscrip- tions. Beyond this is the outer wall of the fortress, flanked by square cas- tellated towers at short distances from each other. "Within this, and further up the hill, is a projection of the table land, precipitous on all sides but one — this was the citadel ; the excavations here are very singular, and the view from the windows of these chambers in the rock down the ravines is of the wildest character. From the opposite side of the mountain, Sevastopol, with its harbours, shipping, &c., may be distinctly seen, and towards Bagtche Serai the eye ranges over a broken chain of moun- tains, each in itself a natural and im- pregnable fortress. Of the vast popu- lation that once inhabited Mangoup, not one human being now remains ; ivy has embraced its walls and towers, rank herbs and trees have choked the vine, the lizard and the eft disport themselves over the ruins of the syna- gogue, and a stray feather from an
eagle's wing, which we preserve as a memorial of our visit, completed the scene of desolation, and showed that the spot which had once owned the sovereignty of ancient Grreece, that of the enterprising and valiant Grenoese, and, lastly, that of the children of Judah, was indeed a solitude. If the traveller should on descending feel thirsty, let him stroll down the vil- lage while the nags are being refreshed, and drink at the fountain erected in times past by some charitable Tartar; the water is delicious. The brick monuments on the road side, between this and Bagtche Serai, were erected by Potemkin, to commemorate the Empress Catherine's visit to the Crimea. It will be night before the traveller reaches this town, one of the few now remaining in the Crimea, in- habited solely by Tartars, who still cling with reverence and affection to the ancient capital of their race.
This city of Bagtche Serai— in the Tartar language. Seraglio of Gar- dens— was for centuries the capital of that remarkable state which formed the last fragment of the great Mongo- lian power in Europe, and spread its influence as far as the Volga and the Vistula. And here, in this narrow ravine, dwelt those khans before whose name the ancient city of the Tzar trembled each returning spring, and for whose protection and friendship Poles, Turks, and Russians vied with one another. To those who have not been in Eastern countries, all that re- mains of Bagtche Serai will be in- teresting ; for, though the glory of the Tartar Khans has departed, and their mausoleum is a very humble edifice compared with that of the Sultans' at Constantinople, this build- ing and that of the Palace of the Khans are quite Oriental in their ar- chitecture, and striking monuments of the instability of human greatness. The palace presents a series of diminu- tive apartments, small courts, foun- tains, and kiosks ; and one room left
618
EOUTE J04. ODESSA TO THE CEIMEA.
Sect. V.
in its original state is lined with look- ing glass. The seraglio is separated by a wall from the principal building, but the gallery of the apartment in which the khans gave audience is lat- ticed, so that the ladies of the harem were enabled to hear and see, unseen. The bath in the garden must have been a delightful retreat for them; it is several feet square, and the trellis work over it is covered with a most splendid vine, so old, that no doubt many of these houris, while bathing here, and disporting themselves in the crystal waters, plucked from this very vine the ripe and delicious fruit ; and the Khans — where were they 1 peeping, no doubt. On the fountain, called Selsabil, in the vestibule, is the following in- scription, remarkable only for the Oriental character of the style : —
" Glory to God in the Highest.
"The town of Bagtch^-Serai rejoices in the beneficent solicitude of the lumi- nous Crim-Gheri-Khan : it was he who with generous hand quenched the thirst of his countrymen, and who will occupy himself in shedding still greater bene- fits, when God shall assist him. His benevolence discovered this excellent spring of water."
*' If there exists such another foun- tain, let it present itself. The towns of Scham and Bagdad have seen many things, but never such a fountain."
The author of this inscription is by name Chegi. Those tormented with thirst will read through the water, which falls from a pipe of the size of a finger, what is traced in the fountain. But what does it announce ?
"Go, drink of the beautiful water from the purest of fountains, for it be- stows health." (In the year 1176, a.d.)
The traveller should try and obtain a room at the palace, which is the usual halting place for persons furnished with a padaroshna.
The Tartars are a kind and inoiFen-
sive people, and, generally speaking, lead a pastoral life ; some of those re- sident here employ themselves in the manufacture of leather cushions, slip- pers, whips, saddles, caps of the black lambskin, and felt cloaks called hour- Teas. The coffee-houses, which are mean and dirty, are divided into little pens by low partitions ; the beverage, as in Turkey, is served in very small cups in filagree stands. The road turns ofif there to Simferopol, the Russian capital of the Crimea ; but there is no- thing there which can interest the tra- veller. It is central in its position, and contains, like all new Russian towns, many handsome houses decorated with green paint and rows of columns. The Gypsies near Bagtche Serai live in ex- cavations of the rocks ; they are re- markably handsome, and at some little distance from their singular habitations is the Monastery of Koroli, perched like that of St, George on a ledge of rock. On the opposite side of this ravine, and on the summit of a moun- tain, is the town of Tchufutkale, in- habited by all that remain of the Ka- raite Jews. The beauty of their wo- men is remarkable, and their Eastern costume and bright robes set them oif to admiration. The synagogue is small, the women sit in a gallery apart from the men, protected by a very efficient grating. The burying ground is pret- tily situated, and near the synagogue is the tomb of a daughter of one of the ancient khans. The view from hence in the direction of the mountain range near the sea is very fine, and not un- like that from the Acropolis of Corinth looking towards Nemea. The traveller will do well to sleep at Tchufutkale, and, rising early, push on to Ousembash, a village situated at the foot of these mountains. Here there is a caravan- serai, at which tea, kaimak (a kind of clotted cream), and eggs may be obtained. Fresh horses can also be procured, and these are absolutely necessary, for the road hence runs up the bed of a torrent and is nearly perpendicular. The sum-
Russia.
KOUTE 104. — ODESSA TO THE CRIMEA.
619
mit of this range is completely devoid of trees, and the temperature, even in summer, far from comfortable. The view is sublime. The Tchatir Dagh, the highest mountain of this range, and a little to the left, is 5135 feet above the level of the sea. The descent towards Yalta is rapid, and, from the quantity of pine cones which fall from the trees, slippery; but the Tartar ponies, like goats, are very sure-footed, and relays of them are obtained at every village by the Onbashi, or head man.
The valley in which Yalta is situ- ated should be explored up to its junc- tion with the hills; the scenery is beautiful, a trout stream runs through it, and the fish are of excellent flavour ; indeed all the edibles of the Crimea are of very superior quality.
A trip along the coast to Alushta will also form an agreeable excursion. This place is reached by the high road to Simferopol, and the scenery through which it passes, as far as Alushta, is even richer and more picturesque than that on the road to Alupka. On leaving Yalta, one beautiful estate follows another adorned with vine- yards, orchards, and handsome houses, varied by thickly wooded mountain declivities, groups of rocks and mur- muring rivulets, with a sea as blue as the heavens above it. In the valley, near Yalta, the estates are small, but higher up the mountain is that of Mar- sanda, the property of the young Count Woronzoff ; beyond this is Choreis, the charming residence of Prince Gralitzin, in which we once spent some very agreeable hours. Beyond this again is the valley of Magaratch, some eighteen years since a wilderness, but now covered with beautiful gardens and villas, the land here having been parcelled out and sold in small lots by the government to private individuals. Near Magaratch is the Botanical Gar- den of Nikita, which is well worthy of inspection ; every possible variety of tree and plant adapted to the climate is
to be found here ; even the distant Hi- malaya has furnished its tribute. The collection of vines is, perhaps, the largest and most perfect in the world ; it was made for an American merchant in the south of France, but subse- quently purchased by the Russian Go- vernment and transferred to the Crimea. There are upwards of 300 sorts ; the black and white Muscats, and the Isa- belle, were the best amongst those we tasted. We have remarked elsewhere that the grapes of Nikita are sent for the emperor's use to St. Petersburgh, a dis- tance of 2400 versts. The soil, aspect, and climate of this coast are so favour- able to the cultivation of the vine, that every kind of wine may be made here ; and where quality, not quantity, is made the object of attainment, the wine is excellent. Some that has the body of good French claret, with the flavour and colour of port, is very good ; also the sweet wines, Malaga, Lunelle, &c. The vine dressers are generally French or Germans. In the garden at Nikita is a curious ruin of the vegetable kingdom, consisting of the decayed and moulder- ing trunks of some olive trees which flourished here in the time of the Ge- noese. This tree, though it grows, does not succeed here, bearing fruit but rarely, and of an inferior quality. Beyond Nikita is Yursuf, and then Alushta. This place occupies a very interesting geographical position. The high wall of the Crimean mountains is here broken through in a remarkable manner, by broad valleys stretching from the sea- shore on the south-east to the steppe on the north-west, sink- ing at the same time from the height of 4000 to that of 2000 feet, and rising again on the east, abruptly to its former height, whilst from the lower elevation the isolated summit of the Tchatir Dagh stands out towering a, thousand feet above any other point of the whole range, apparently quite distinct from it, especially on the north and south. This mountain is called by the Russians " Palata Gora," a
6-20
EOUTE 105. ODESSA TO GALLATZ.
Sect. V.
name, like the Tartar appellation Tchatir Dagh, descriptive of its form, which is very like that of the Table Mountain at the Cape of Grood Hope.
This form may be considered com- mon to the mountains of the Crimea, since they all appear as high walls or ridges, intersected by valleys, but it is of course less evident where they are not isolated. The valleys or defiles which cross the Tchatir Dagh from the sea to the steppe are interesting, not merely from their physical conforma- tion, but also in a commercial point of view. They are the only convenient passes through the mountains and the principal channels of communication between the north and the south, and two not inconsiderable commercial towns have arisen, one at each ex- tremity ; Simferopol on the north, and Alushta on the south. These defiles are also interesting in an historical point of view, and the numerous bat- tles fought in them have rendered them quite the classic ground of the Crimea.
Alushta, in the time of the Genoese, was a very populous place, and, in the Byzantine period, the seat of a bishop. It possessed a large fortress, built by the Emperor Justinian, and its fame dated from several centuries before Christ. The modern Alushta, how- ever, lies in the midst of the ruins of its former greatness, like an Arab vil- lage amongst the remains of an Egyptian city. At the side of the town stands a large building in the Asiatic style, for the reception of travellers, where, with the exception of thick coffee, little is to be procured but hot water for making tea ; the traveller is ex- pected to bring the herb with him. The slice of lemon which they put into the tumbler, for it is rarely served in a cup, is, to our ideas, delicious after a fatiguing ride. Towards noon the Tchatir Dagh generally puts on his cap as the Tartars say, the very same expression used by the Swiss, when a mountain top becomes covered with clouds. In case the traveller should de-
sire to ascend this mountain, he will re- quire a stout guide, a good cloak or coat, and provender for the inward man.
We were amply repaid by the novelty and beauty of the scenery for the rough- ing and inconvenience we experienced in visiting the Crimea ; to the geologist or botanist it must be still more in- teresting.
ROUTE 105.
ODESSA TO GALLATZ BY OVIDIOPOL.
Should the winter be severe, which, it generally is at Odessa, the sea will be frozen over, and all communication to Constantinople or the Danube, by steamboat, impossible. The journey by land, either to Grallatz, on that river, or to the Austrian frontier at Tchernovetz, will, however, be still open to travellers ; but the travelling on either of these roads is rough .work. The distance from Odessa to the Da- nube is about 290 versts, and the accommodation is similar to that on every steppe road in Russia.
Odessa to
OviDioPOL, 37 versts. This town is about 15 miles from the mouth of the Dniester. The Niproffski Leman or Lake must be passed here in a steamer, which crosses four or five times in the day ; the trajet takes an hour.
Akerman, 9. This is the only town of any consequence on this road, but there is nothing to be seen which can interest a stranger.
Alkaliskaia, 27.
Sarjarskaia, 15^.
Tartarhunarshaia, 23.
Smiefkaia, 21.
Troiani, ISj.
Katlahugskaia, 17f.
IsMAEL, 29 2. Celebrated for the fearful siege and storm which it suffered on 22nd Dec. 1790. Suwaroff greatly distinguished himself by several acts of personal courage during the assault, and, snatching a standard from an of-
Hussia.
ROUTE 106. — ODESSA TO TCHERNOVETZ.
621
ficer, planted it on the ramparts. The garrison of 30,000 Turks was put to the sword ; the loss of the Russians is said to have been 20,000 men. TsMshmi Waruit, 22f . Bolgrad, 18j. Volhoneshti, 22f . Reni, 29i. Total, 2911. This is the last station, and on the Danube ; here a small boat must be hired, in which the traveller will reach Grallatz in about two hours and a half, or he can go by land if he prefers it at an expense of from four to five silver rubles. The best of the bad hotels at Grallatz is the Hotel de Moldavie ; but at the Consulate will be found the best accommodation, and a letter to our representative will be found highly useful. The diplomatic corps have very little to do here, and perhaps their greatest pleasure consists in en- tertaining any of their countrymen who may happen to wander this way. The Austrian Consul, who has the su- perintendence of the Vienna and Con- stantinople line of steamers, and there- fore an important functionary, is most hospitably disposed ; an introduction to this gentleman will procure the tra- veller the best dinner that can be ob- tained at Grallatz, with the best addi- tion to it, an agreeable companion.
ROUTE 106.
ODESSA TO TCHERNOVETZ, ON THE AUS- TRIAN FRONTIER, BY TIRESPOL.
The road from Odessa to Tcherno- vetz, on the Austrian frontier, is much more frequented than that to Gallatz during the winter months; for, though it is not quite so good, more rapid pro- gress is made, because there are plenty of post-horses. Should the merchant or traveller be very much pressed for time, we would recommend him to get intro- duced, through some private friend, to the post-master at Odessa, who may pos-
sibly allow him to have a courier of that department who will bring back the mail; the horses will instinctively move out of the stable at the sight of this subor- dinate's uniform, who will think him- self well paid with five silver rubles ; should, however, it so happen that the party engaging the courier has to pay his way back, the whole cost for his services and the back posting for a telega and two horses, will be twenty silver rubles. Odessa to DalwiJc, 15\. Barahoi or Gidirim, 25. Kutshungaoi, 26 j. TiRESPOL, 27. There is little or nothing to attract observation on this road. Tirespol is on the Dniester, and contains about 500 houses and two churches. The river with its numerous and thickly wooded islands is a very pleasing landscape after a long ac- quaintance with tame and treeless steppe scenery.
Bender, 12. Crossing the Dniester, the traveller will arrive at Bender, so celebrated as the place in which Charles XII. made his gallant but eccentric defence against the Turks. Zinzinenskaia, 295. Kishinepp, 29^. The principal town on this road after Tirespol. Peresetshina, 24 1. Orgeiep, 1Q\. a small town. Saraten, 26j. Kopatsheni, 28|^. Bblzi, 25^. A small town. Retsha, 25. Bratushanshaia, 25. Glinnaia, 2 3 5^. LijpTcani, 314. StalinetsJci, 19j.
NovosELiTZA, 27^. — Total, 437. The frontier town. Here the Russian post stations cease, and for the stage hence to Boyanne, the first Austrian post station, the traveller must hire pri- vate horses either of a Jew or a Christian, and he will find that neither Testa- ment has had much effect on their E £ 3
622
EOUTE 106.-— ODESSA TO TCHEENOVETZ. Sect. V.
owners. From there post-horses and a diligence will be found ready to convey the wearied traveller to the town of Tchernovetz. The expenses of the Jew and his horses or a carriage from Novoselitza to that place will be
about six silver rubles. The whole distance from Odessa to Tchernovetz is about 470 versts. A diligence will take the traveller from hence to Vienna.
GENERAL INDEX TO ROUTES
IN
DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, FINLAND, AND RUSSIA.
AABEL. A.
Aabel, 192
Aabenraa, 75
Aabogen, 246
Aalborg, 94, 95, 253
Aalesund, 198
Aalgaard, 194
Aabrust, 162, 172
Aalund, 195
Aardals Fiord, 167
Aarfor, 207
Aarhuus, 91 ; Cathedral, 92
Aarosund, 76
Aasen, 200
Aasceth, 236
Aberdeen, 95
o
Abo, 358 ; Description of, 358; Inns, 358; University, 358; Great fire, 358; Castle of, 359; Cathedral, 359; Or- gan, 359; Treaty, 359, 374
Abofors, 372
Abohus, 358
Aborrebierg, 83
Aby, 339
Abyn, 328
Achmet, 423
Ackland's, Sir Thomas, ac- count of Sneehcetten, 224
Af va, 327
Afvelsater, 346
Agershuus, Castle of, 153
Agnesberg, 334, 344, 346
Agre, 237
Ahrensburg, 69
Aix-la-Chapelle, 64
Akerman, 620
Aktuba River, 600
Aland, 327
Aland, Island of, 329
Aland group, 358
Alexander, Emperor, 367,400, 433, 434, 435, 436, 437, 462, 464, 465, 491, 493, 494, 495, 507, 511, 517, 519, 521, 524, 633, 541, 542, 548, 550, 679, 586, 693, 597, 598
Alexander, Fort, 616
the Great, 610
St. Nevskoi, 421, 476
Alexandria, 587, 608
Alexandrosky, 607
Alexis, Tzar, 427, 539, 544,
549, 555 Alfarnoes, 235 Alfta, 314 Alheim, 340
o
Alingsas, 336 Allebek, 90
Almas, 334
Alsensjon, 326
Alsike, 324
Alsta, 326
Altar-piece at Borre, 83
Alteidet, 209
Alten river, 209
Copper Works, 210
to Tornea in winter, 241
in summer, 243
Altona, 37, 253; Tomb of Klopstock, 37
Bauer's Gardens,37 ; rail- road, 38
Alupka, 614, 615, 619
Alushta, 619, 620
Amal, 346
Amsterdam, 68
Amten Lake, 334
Anastasia, 424, 425
Andersby, 309
Anderstof , 341
Angelstad, 191
Angerman River, 327
Angersjd, 328
Angustovo, 691
Angvik, 199
Aniskina, 602
Anne, Empress, 430, 548, 551, 576, 583, 584
Annenhof, Asylum of, 522
Anthony, St., 589
Antiquities, Copenhagen, 47, 61
Christiania, 152 ; Stock- holm, 293; Lund, 342
Antwerp, 66
BAIDAR.
Apelden von Albrecht, 682
Apenrade, 75
Arboga, 331
Archangel, 405
Arctic Circle, 207
Are River, 326
Areda, 338
Arendal, 191, 215
Arfuet, 314
Arians, 616
Arnaouts, 615
Arnheim, 68
Arouga, 585
Arset, 339 Asa, 344 Asen, 345
Ashult, 338
Asker, 181
Askja, 327
Asnen Lake, 338
Aspen Lake, 336
Assens, 76
Asser Ryg, legend of, 78
Astorp, 337 Atlestad, 196 Atorp, 331 Augustus, 11, 592
Stanislas, 643
Aunoen, 215 Aurajoki, 358
Aurora borealis, Mr. Eve- rest's account of the, 212 Austa, 236 Averoen, 199 Azoff, 428 Sea of, 602
B.
Baadsenden, 233
Baads Vand, 193
Back, 345
Backa, 344
Bagtch6 Serai, 617; History of, 617; Palace of the Khans, 617; Bath, 618; Fountain, 618
Baidar, Forest of, 615
624
DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN,
Index.
BAIDAR.
Baidar, Valley of, 615
Baird, Mr., 474, 508
Bakke, 194
Balaclava, 615
Balta, 590
Baltic, Letters from the, 407
Bangsund, 202
Bankeberg, 336
Bareberg, 334
Barkarby, 330
Barnarp, 337, 338
Barretskov, 93
Basaltic caverns, 97
Basil II., 422,531,536
IV., 424, 544
Batvinia, a soup, 402 Baver Elv, 252 Bear, Headland, 613 Bear-shooting, 161, 164, 234 Beauharnais, Eugene, 603,
604 Beina Elv, 161 Bejan, 215 Beldringe, 84 Belefstrooskaia, 374 Belgorod, 607 Behza, 588
Belozelsky, Prince, 529 Belzi, 621 Bender, 621 Benningsen, 433 Benson, Misses, 398, 399 Beranger, Mons., 404 Beresina, 436
Passage of, 604
Berg, 202, 239, 325
Berge, 186, 326
Bergen, 173; Churches, 175;
Art Union, 175 ; Fortress,
175; Museum, 176;Theatre,
176; Trade, 177 Bergen to Molde, 196 Bergland, Andrew, 360 Bergsager, 193 Bergseth, 237 Bergsjdbyn, 326 Bergviken Lake, 325 Berlin, 302, 584 Bemadotte, 202, 309, 331 Bernhard, Bp., 582 Besborodko, Prince, 529 Bessieres, Marshal, 520 Bielosersk Convent, 544 Bierkager, 200, 225 Bindals Fiord, 207 Biorsatter, 333 Birkrim, 194 Biron, Marshal, 583, 584 Bitshok, 572 Bjerke, 233 Bjoberg, 179 Bjorndal, 180 Bjorneborg, 377 Bjdrnedals Elv, 185 Bj6rn6raa, 193 Bjdrne Fiord, 195 Bjdroen, 206, 216 Bjorsbeg, Cascade of, 371 Bjuggsta, 330 Blacksta, 333 Black Sea, 613 Blaker, 252
Blaker to Laurgaard, 252 to Romsdalen, 252
Blili, 232
Blinni, pancake, 526
Blore, Mr.. 615
Blucher, 595
Bo, 3.38
Boatzkhan, 421
Bodo, 207
Boekken, 199
Boekkervigen, 195
Boerden, 209
Bogen, 238
Bogorodsk, 596
Bogstad, 156
Boh us, ruins of the Castle of,
321,345 Bokharians, 600 Bole, 314 Bolgen, 199, 235 Boiler, 93 Bolstaddren, 172 Bomarsund, 358 Bona, 339 Bondkara, cart, 352 Boren Lake, 317 Borggardet, 312 Borgholm, 287 Borgo, 371
Borgund, old Church of, 164 Borisof, 603, 604 Bornholm, Island of, 286, 303 Borodino, 434, 533 Borre, 83
Cliffs at, 83
Borregaard, 247 Borrow, Mr., 571 Bosekop, 210, 216 Bothnia, Gulf of, 352, 355 Botten, 193 Boursk, 607 Bowyer, Mrs., 398 Boxholm, Island of, 358 Boyanne, 621 Braaten, 159, 180 Brcekke, 191 Brcendaasen, 193 Bracke, 326 Brahe, Tycho, 69, 305
Ebba, 305
Bransmala, 339
Braviken, bay of, 339
Brazlaf, 590
Bregentved, 84
Breitenburg, castle of, 74
Breivi, 193
Bremer's, Miss, Legend of
the Marie Stien, 184 Bremund Elv, 233 Brest, 605 Breum Vand, 197 Brevig, 191, 215 Brief, Bookseller, 529 Bringsta, 325 Bringsvoerd, 192 Brink, 335 Bro, 325
Broby, 338, 339, 372 Broke Field, 186 Brdms, 340 Bronitzi, 532 Brosarp,;338, 341
CATHEDRALS.
Brdsta, 327 Brottby, 239 Brufladt, 161 Bruges, 63 Bruhl, Count, 5.92 BrulofF, Artist, 456, 480, 485 Brummen Vand, 179 Brunback, 310 Brunsatra, 310 Brunswick, 302
■ death of the duke
of, 37 Bubbetorp, 341 Bug River, 608 Butler, 427 Bukken, 195, 215
Burea, 328 Bustetun, 188 By River, 346 Byarum, 337 Bye, 200 Bygholm, 94 Bygland, 193 Bykle, 193 Byske, 328
Caesar, 613
Callot, Marie, 510
Calmucks, 600
Canaletto, Belotto di, 542, 595
Canals, Schleswig and Hol- stein, 40
■ Gotha, 316 ; Ost Go-
tha, 317 ; West Gotha, 318; Vishni Volotchok, 534
Carleby, Ny, 377
Old, 377
Carlshamn, 340
Carlshuus, 247
Carlskrona, 340, 341
Carlstad, 331, 346
Carmarthen, Lord, 429
Caroline Matilda, Queen, 87. 89
Carrioles, 352
Carruta's Hotel, 401
Casimir IV., 424, 593
Cathedrals and Churches. — Hamburg, 34; Copenha- gen, 55; Ghent, 63; Ma- lines, 63 ; Liege, 63 ; Co- logne, 64; Antwerp, 66; Lubec, 70; Sleswig, 76; Odense, 76 ; Roeskilde, 79; Mariebde,81; Elsineur,88; Ribe, 94; Borgund, 164; Hitterdal, 186; Stavanger, 194; Trondhjem,228; Kal- mar, 286; Wisby, 288; Stockholm, 294; Upsala, 306 ; Vretakloster, 317 ; Westeras, 331; Abo, 359; Helsingforss, 361; Reval, 364, 367; St. Petersburgh, 469, 473, 475, 476, 478, 480, 481; Novgorod, 532; Mos- cow, 543, 544, 545, 546; Riga, 581; Gatshina, 585;
hidex.
FINLAND, AND RUSSIA.
B25
CATHERINE.
Kief, 589; Warsaw, 593; Vladimir, 596; Nijni Nov- gorod, 598 Catherine I., 430, 548
II., 3G7, 368, 431, 432,
433, 490, 491, 492, 495, 514, 517, 518, 521, 525, 544, 547, 548, 549, 550, 574, 577. 585, 588, 602, 610, 617
Chancellor, Richard, 425
Charles XII., 247, 249, 295, 360, 361, 364, 428, 548, 578, 581,607,621
Charlottenlund, 61
Chemiaka, 423
Cherem^tieff, Prince, 574, 575, 596
Cherson, 609
Chersonesus, 610, 612, 616
Chetiri Rouki, 531
China, 614
Chinois Caf6, 404, 405
Choczim, 431
Choreis, 619
Chotetovo, 607
Christiania, 150; Fiord, 150; Inns, 151 ; Post-office, 151 ; Money, 151 ; University, 152; Collection of North- ern Antiquities, 152 ; Na- tional Gallery, 153; Art Union, 153 ; Theatre, 153; Castle of Agershuus, 153; Steam-boat Office, 154 ; Passport Office, 154 ; Shops, 155; Carriages, 155; En- virons, 156; Cemetery, 156; Column of Liberty, 156; Steamers, 157
Christiania to Sarpsfos, 157
to Christiansand, 188,
213
Christiansand, 192
to Stavanger, 193
Christiansfeldt, 76
Christian stad, 338
Christiansund, 199
Christina, Queen, 364
Christinehamn, 331
Christinestadt, 377
Circassians, 600
Clubs, 399, 401, 574
Cobley, General, 609
Coblefka, 609
Codex argenteus, 307
aureus, 293
Codrington, Sir E., 519
Cologne, 64
Colomak, 607
Colpenny, 385
Constantine, Fort, 616
Grand Duke, 437, 521,
594
XL, 420
Constantinople, 412 Consulate, Russian, 385 Convent at Preetz, 69 Copenha, 507 Copenhagen, 41 ; Post-office,
41 ; Days for seeing collec- tions, 42; Market, 45; Palace of Christiansborg,
EGERSUND.
45; Royal collection of pictures, 46 ; Museums, 46, 50, 53 ; Royal Library, 48 ; Arsenal, 4i3; Palace of Rosenberg, 48; Money and medallion cabinet, 50 ; Uni- versity, 53 ; Churches, 55 ; Hospitals, 57; Theatres, 58; Statues, 59; Royal china manufactory, 59; Ce- meteries, 59, 61; Public conveyances, 59, 61; Steam- ers, 60 ; Environs, 61
Copernicus, 593
Corokovi Colodetz, 607
Cossacks, 591, 600, 601, 603
Crimea, 408, 431, 548, 609, 612, 613, 614, 615, 616, 617
Cronstadt, 438; Population, 439; Harbour, 440; Docks, 440 ; Fortifications, 440 ; Kettle Island, 440
Admiral, 360
Custine, Marquis de, 578, 597
Cuxhaven, 30
Czartoriski, Prince, 592
Doel, 183
to Kongsberg, 184
to Bergen, 185
Dag-bok, 352
Daglosten, 328
Dala, 339
D*lberg River, 346
DalboSjon, 319
Dalby, 342
Dale, 172
Dal Elv, 161
Dal River, 324
Dalecarlia, 311
Dalseidet, 172
Danemora,the Iron Mines of, 309
Dannevirke, 76
Dantzic, 588
Danube River, 621
Davoust, Marshal, 473, 520, 604
D'Arquien, Marie, 594
Degeberga,338
De la Rue, Mr., 507
Demidoff, 474
Denmark, 15 ; Routes from England, 15; Money, Weights, and Measures,16 ; Language, 16; Passports, 16 ; Roads, Posting, I7 ; Steam-boats, 19 ; Inns, 19; Rivers, 21 ; Features of the countrv, 21; Heaths, 21; Forests', 22 ; Sandhills, 22 ; Islands, 23; Marshes, 23; Royal Family, 24; Popu- lation, 25; Finance, 25; Army and Navy, 25 ; His- torical Notice, 25; New Constitution, 28 ; Product- ive Industry, 28; People, 28; Peasantry, 29 ; Public Instruction, 29
529
Derbend, 428 Deutz, 65 Diana, 612 Dickson, Mr., Didiloff, 427 Dihult, 338 Dillingen, 247 Dimakova, 587 Djekneboda, 328 Dmitri, Prince, 425, 576
. Ivanovitch, 576, 577
IV., Donskoi, 422
the False, 426, 427, 545,
587 Dnieper River, 419, 587, 588,
589, 603, 608 Dniester River, 620, 621 Docksta, 327 Dokha Elv, 160 Dokkenhuden, 37 Dolgof ka, 585 Dombrowski, 604 Don, Battle of the, 422, 577
River, 418
Sources of, 602
Virgin of the Cossacks
of, 557
Donnoes, 207
Glacier at, 207
Dorarp, 337
Dorby, 340
Dorfgarten, 40
Dorogobush, 603
Dorpat, 579; Hotels, 579;
Teutonic knights, 579;
University, 579, 582 Douglas, 364 Dovre Field, 222 Dragoons, Russian, 427 Drammen, 181 Dranishnekovo, 375 Drivstuen, 225 Drobak, 215, 246 Dronningstolen, 83 DronningsUdsigt, 159 Drontheim (see Trondhjem) Drotningholm , 300 Dudnikoff, 607, 608 Dugdale, Lieutenant, 431 Duisberg, 68
Dum^e, Restaurateur, 402 Dunaborg, 585 Dunserud 180, 182 Duseau, Restaurateur, 529 Dusseldorf, 65 Dusternbroek, 40 Dwina River, 581, 587 Dykalla, 346 Dypvlk, 209
E.
Eagle, the Ship, 427
• • the Black, 427
Ebeltoft, 95 Edenryd, 341 Edsberg Sanna, 331 Edsby, 314 EfverlSf, 342 Eggedals Field, 179 Egelykke, 81 Egersund, 194, 215
626
DENMARK, NOEWAY, SWEDEN,
Index.
EGYPTEN. Egypten, 585 Ehrenswerd, Count, 360 Eid, 197 Eide, 198, 235 Eider Duck, habits of the,
235 Eidevik, 197 Eidre Vand, 179 Eidsvold, Constitution
House at, 217 Eina Elv, 232 Einstuga, 314 Eklanda, 336 Eksjo, 339 EJaren Lake, 337 Elden, 202 Eldsoet, 239 Elfdal, 313 ; Royal Porphyry
Manufactory, 313
■ to Tornea andTrond-
hjem, 314 Elf karleby, 324 Elfsborg, Fortress of, 323 Elizabeth, Empress, 430, 431,
521, 524,547,561,574 Elizavetgrad, 608
Military Colonies at, 608
Elliot, Mr., on Tellemarken,
186 Elm shorn, 74 Elmhult, 338
Elphinstone, Admiral, 431 Elsineur, 88 ; Sound Duties,
90 ; Steamers, 91 Elstad,220 Embach River, 580 Emmeboda, 341 Enebakken, 333 Engelholm, 343 Engelsholm, 93 Engen. 237 Engersund, 195 Engestofte, 82 Enkdping, 330 Eric, Saint, 359 XIV., 359, 362, 363
Eriksmala, 341
Erman, 551
Ersnas, 328
Erye Elv, 220
Esrom Lake, 87
Etnedals Elv, 160
Etnesoen, 195
Eusta, 329
Evanger, 171
Everest, Mr., on Kongsberg,
182 • on the Aurora Bo-
realis, 212 Exampe, 552 Eyanpaika, The rapids of,
244 Eye, 194
F,
Fagerhult, 337 Falconet, 510 Faleidet, 166, 197 Falkenberg, 344
Falster, Island of, 82 Falun, 311
to Gefle, 312
Elfdal, 313
Fanbjerget, 234 Fanbyn, 326 Fandrem, 200 Fanebust, 197 Fanne Fiord, 235 Fare Elv, 232 Farjestaden, 339 Faroe Islands, 96 Farsund, 194, 215 Faxelfven, 326 Feodorovna, Maria, 542 Fedde. 194 Fieldoen, 195 Fielkinge, 341 Fiennes Idv, 78 Fikke, 209 Fille Field, 163 Findoe, 195 Finkroken, 209 Finland, Routes, 349; Rus- sian passport, 349 ; Finnish passport, 349; Padaroshna, 350; Money, 350; Steam- boats, 351, 362; Posting, 352; Diligences, 352; Ge- neral view of, 355 Finve, 207 Firbank, Mr., 385 Fisher, Mr., 516 Fiskum Fos, 202 Fittia, 335
Fjal, 327 •
Fjerdingsta, 339
Flaae, 225
Fladmark, 234
Flad Soe, 186
Fiadsnoes, 202
Flagan Lake, 332
Flage, 171
Flagstad Elv, 233
Flarenden, 193
Fleet, Black Sea, 616
Flekkefiord, 194, 215
Fleninge, 343
Flensborg, 75
Flikeid, 194
Flisan, 239
Flodals Elv, 186
Flottbeck, 37
Foedor I., 425 III., 427
Fogs Aae, 222
Fogstuen, 222
Folda Elv, 222
Folden Fiord, 207
Foldereid, 207
Folgefond, Glacier of the,
171, 188 Folgeroen, 195 Foling, 202 Forbord, 201 Forde, 197 Forde Fiord, 197 Forresvig, 195 Fors, 346 Forssa, 326 Fortun, 251 Forvik, 207
GERDSBERG.
Fosland, 202
Frankeklint, 81
Frankfort-on-the-Maine, 583
Frauenhofer, 579
Fredensborg, palace of, 87
Frederick II., 582
Fredericksham, 373; Inn, 373; Treaty of, 373; Forti- fications, 373.
Frederiksborg, palace of, 86
Frederiksdal, 81
Frederikshald, 249
Frederikshavn, 95, 253
Frederikstad, 247
Frederiksteen, fortress of, 249
Frederiksund, 85
Frederiksvoerk, 86
Frederiksvoern, 190, 215, 253
Fredo, 199, 235
Fremstedal,235
Freng, 234
Frogner, 233
Frogneraasen, 156
Froisnces, 193
Frostkage, 328
Frusvoldsmden, 252
Frydenlund, 161
Fuhr, 341
Fulgestad, 194
Furresund, 215
Furudalsbruk, 314
Fuse, 196
Fyldpaa, 190
G.
Gaasetaarn,82 Gabense, 82 Gaddvik, 328 Galitzin, the Buffoon, 430
the Minister, 428
Prince S., 619
Gallatz, 620, 621
Gamb, Upholsterer, 528
Game, 402
Gamleby Viken,339
Gangenoes, 195
Garberg, 200, 313
Garde, 326
Garder, 239
Gardie, Jacques de la, 361,
367 Gargarin, Prince, 606 Garlie, 226, 237 Garnoes, 173, 241
Garsas, 313 Garsjoe, 232 Gartland, 202 Gatshina, Chateau of, 585
Town of, 521,585
Gaupne Fiord, 165 Gaustad, 236 Gautetun, 193 Gefle, 312, 324
-toSundsvall,325
George, St., 424, 529
Convent of, 612, 615
Gerdhem, 346 Gerdsberg, 331
Index.
FINLAND, AND BUSSIA.
627
GERRESTAD.
Gerrestad Lake, 191 Getterum, 340 Geyser, the, 98 Ghent, 62 Gibostad, 209 Gidea River, 327 Gidskoe, ruins at, 198 Giellebek, 181 Gisselfeldt, abbey of, 84 Gjermundshavn, 188 Glanshammar, 331 Glommen River, 236, 238,
245, 247 Glosbo, 314 Glukoi, 502 Glumslof, 343 Godunof Boris, 425, 426, 549,
576 Golova, 543 Gorkovitz, 597 Gorodichetche, Convent of,
476 Gostomisle, Chief Magistrate,
419
Gottasa, 338
Gottenburg, 321, 334, 345; Inns, 321 ; Post-office, 321 ; Steam-boat office, 322 ; Money, 322; Travelling servants, 322 ; Churches, 322; Environs, 323 ; Steam- ers, 323; Carriages, 323
Gottland, Island of, 287
Gottorf, Castle of, 74
Gousta Field, 159
Graaryg, 83
Grado, 310
Grafe, Bookseller, 529
Gran, 300
Grand Le, Restaurateur, 402, 529
Granevold, 160
Grastorp, 334
Green, 180
Greiffenfeld,Count,94.190,230
Greig, Admiral, 431, 609
Grenna, 336
Grimnas, 326
Grimsmark, 328
Grimstad, 192, 215
Grimtorp,339
Gripsholm, 300
Grisselhamn, 329, 370
Grodaas, 197
Grodt, 238
Grohed, 345
Gronnen,232
Gronsund, 83
Grorud, 217
Grotius, Hugo, 37
Grotnas, 329
Grudt, 225
Grunge Elv, 187
Grundseth, 236, 239
Grytestuen, 232
Gryttje, 325
Gubberud, 180
Gudvangen, 168
Gugaard, 187
Gula Elv, 200
Gulben, 580
Guldbrandsdalen, 219
Guldholmen, 211 Guldsmedmoen, 193 GuUered, 336 Gulsvig, 179 Gumbinnen, 586 Gumboda, 328 Gumdal, 200 Gurre, 88 Gustafskrogen, 346 Gustavus Adolphus, 295, 359,
364, 427, 438, 579 Gustavus III., 482 Gustavus Vasa, 306, 312, 313,
321, 361, 424 Gypsies, 571,611, 618
H.
Haas, Dr., 564
Hoeg, 164, 179
Hcegeim, 199,235
Haalangen Field, 222, 252
Haar, 194
Haarlem, 68
Haarstad, 225
Hadersleben (Haderslev), 76, 253
Haft Elv, 237
Haga, 179, 332
Hagna, 336
Hague, the, 67
Hall, 329
Hall, Mrs., 398
Hals Fiord, 199
Halmstad, 344
Hamburg, 31, 253; Hotels, 31; Money, 32; Fire in 1842, 33; Churches, 34; Johanneum, 34 ; Chari- table Institutions, 34; Ex- change, 34 ; Funeral Pro- cessions, 34 ; Theatre, 35 ; Public Amusements, 35; Jungfernstieg, 35 ; Con- suls, 35; Steam-boats, 35 ; Railroads, 35 ; Public Walks, 36; Environs, 36, 438
Hamer, 202
Hamlet, Saxo Grammaticus, account of, 90
Hammer, 200, 201
Hammerfest,211,216
to the North Cape, 212
Hamneda, 337
Hanestad, 239
Hanover, 65
Hanseatic League, 70, 72
Hanse Towns, 582
Haparanda, 245, 329
Harald Haarfager, burial pla8e of, 195
Haraldstad, 247
Harburg, 65
Hardanger Fiord, I71, 188 Mountains, 187
Hardenberg, Castle of, 82 Harfsta, 310 Harold II., 420 Haroldskioer, 90 Hasselden, 82
HOP.
Hasselror, 333
Haste, 326
Hatvigen, 171, 196
Haugen, 198
Haugesund, 195, 215
Haugum, 202
Haukerod, 190
Havnik, 209
Havdsund, 212
Havstad, 197
Hecla, Mount, 97
Hedals Elv, 221
Hede, 345
Hedemora, 310
Heden, 314
Hegncesgavl, ruins of, 76
Hegrestad, 194
Heibo, 186
Heidkug, 69
Hel-fos, 192
Helga Lake, 338
Helge Lake, 338
Helgenoeset, 239
Helgeo, ruins at, 218 ,
Heligoland, 30
Heljbo, 313
Helle, 193, 200
Helleland, 188
Hellesylt, 198
Helnoes, 207
Helsingborg, 88, 337, 343
Helsingforss, 360 ; Hotels, 360; Population, 361; Se- nate House, 361; Univer- sity, 361 ; Library, 361 ; Sa- gas, 361 ; Standsvik, forest of, 361 ; Mailand, 361 ; Trces- kenda. Gardens of, 361 ; Museum, 361 ; New Club, 361 ; Assembly Rooms, 362; Botanical Garden, 362; Ob- servatory, 362; Bathing House, 362; Scheerin, the, 362
Helstad, 198
Helvig, 196
Hemsedal Elv, 179
Hennau, Dr., 405
Henoug, 239
Herberg, 245
Herdals Elv, 217
Hernosand, 327
Herodotus, 418, 551
Herresta, 338, 341, 345
Herro, 215
Herrskog, 327
Hester, 339
Hildal, 188
Hillerod, 86
Himalaya, the, 619
Himki, 536
Himmelbierg, 92
Hitterdal, Church of, 186 Vand<.186
Hitteren, Island of, 200, 231 Hjerdals Elv, 186 Hjdrring, 94 Hobberstad, 194 Hobro, 94 Hoby, 340 Hodne, 193 Hof, 160
628
DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN,
Index.
HOFF.
Hofr, 252
Hofva, 333
Hofve, 201
Hogbo, 313
Hogboda, 332
Hogdal, 250, 345
Hogforss, 372
Hogsta, 324
Hogvalta, 332
Holager, 234
Holen, 247
Holger Danske, legend of, 89
Holkaberg, 336
Holleland, 194
Holm, 345
Holme, 201
Holmen, 220
Holmestrand, 189, 215
Holseth, 234, 252
Hols Fiord, 159
Holstein , 38
Holte, 191
Holten, 200
Holy Anders, legend of, 77
Homme, 193
Homo, 202
Hompesch, Baron, 585
Honey, Mode of collecting, 588
Hone-fos, 159
Honstad, 200
Hopseidet, 211
Horde, Golden, the, 423
HordncES, 193
Horjem, 234
Horn, Count, 367, 583
Hornoes, 237
Hornbek, 90
Hornilden, remarkable rock
of, 215 Horningdals Vand, 197 Hornvigen, 212 Horre, 187, 193 Horsens, 92 Horten, 189, 215, 247 Horungerne Mountains, 232 Horvig, 196 Hostelbro, 94 Hot springs, 98 Hougan, 200 Houge, 173 Hougen, 222 Hougsund, 180, 181 Houm, 239 Hov, 226, 238 Howard, Mrs., 399, 408
the Philanthropist,
609, 610 Howqua, 402 Hoyland, the robber, 154 Hudiksvall, 325 Hugakollen, 162 Humlestad, 191 Hun, 160, 202,232 Hundven, 197 Hunne-fos, 220 Hunt, Mr., 615 Hurdals River, 232
Vand, 232
Huse, 188, 195 Husum, 164 Hverled, 334
Hvetlandfa, 339 Hvitan, 328
I.
lbs, St., Church of, 92
Iceland, 97
Ice, Palace of, 430
Idde Fiord, 249
Iggersund, 325
Ijora, 531
Ilberg, 332
Ilia, Alexander's coachman,
494 Ilmen, Lake, 531 River, 419
Imse Elv, 237
Indvigs Fiord, 197
Ingared, 336
Ingul, River, 608
Inkerman, Bay of, 616
Innertafle, 328
Innervik, 328
Insleberg, 586
Irtish, 601
Isakievski Dvori, 607
Isdaal, 196
Ishult, 340
Isla, 312
Islands, Danish, 80; Orkneys, 95; Shetland, 96; Faroe, 96; Swedish, 287; Lofod- den, 208; Aland Islands, 329, 358
Ismael, Siege of, 620
Istad, 199, 235
Itzehoe, 74
Ivan I., 422
II., 422
III., 423, 539, 548, 549
IV., 424, .554
Death of, 425
VI., 430
Ivan, Prince of Mojaisk, 423
Prince, 427, 549
Ivanooskoe, Lake of, 602
J.
Jablona, .'>94 Jablonofski, .594 Jacavlevo, 607 Jader, 335, 339 Jafre, 328 Jamburg, 578 J am jo, 340 Jamt Krogen, 326 Jarlsberg, 190 Jassnaia Poliana, 606 Joej^erspriis, 86 Jedeckjaure Lake, 244 Jellinge, 93
remarkable stones at, 93
Jelsoe-stranden, 195 Jemserum,340 Jerackturskaia, 602 Jerkin, 222 Jews Karaite, 618 Johannesberg, ruins of, 335 johnsrud, 159-
KIEF. Jondalsdren, 188 Jonkoping, 336, 337 Jorbron, 310 Jordbroekke, 1.03 Jotumfields, 161 Judeberget, 195 JueJlinge, 81 Jusjon Lake, 313 Justedal, Glaciers of the, 165, Routes from, 166
197
Justinian, Emperor, 620 Jutland, 91
K.
Kaaberbergs Elv, 185 Kaasa, 186 Kadynia, River, 590 Kaflinge, 343 Kalix, 328
Kalka, Battle of, 421 Kallehave, 83 Kallundborg, 95 Kalmar, 286, 340 Kalo, Island of, 92 Kalstad, 200, 225 Kalvarija, 591 Kama, River, 601 Kampaniefka, 608 Kandibino, 608 Karamsin, the Historian, 424, 425, 435
Karby, 340
Kardis, 245
Karkhoff, 433; Hotel, 607; Description of the Town, 6O7 ; University, 607 ; Fair, 607
Karlso, 209
Karra, 344, 346
Karrby, 311
Kasimoff, 601; Description of, 601 ; Tomb of Shah All, 601; Mosque, 601; Gosti- nnoi Dvor, 601
Kateshnoe, .585
Katilovo, 534
Kattleberg, 346
Kautokeine, 243
Kazan, 548, 597
Keel-fos, 168
Kexisvara, 245
Kertch, 610, 612, 613; En- trance to, 913; Description of, 613; Museum, 613; Ancient Mausoleum, 613; Pitch Springs, 614
Keveneb, .374
Khans, Tartar, 617, 618
Khodja Bey, 609
Khoonsova, 575
Khovanski, Prince, 427, 428
Kiatka, 601
Kibitka, 353
Kief, 419, 420; History of, 588; Topography of, 589; Sclavonian Pantheon, 589; Cathedral of St. Sophia, 589; Petcherskol Monas- tery, 589 ; The Bazaar, 590;
Index.
FINLAND, AND RUSSIA.
629
KIEL. Catacombs, r>90; Obelisk of Vladimir the Great, 590; Academy, 59() Kiel, 39; Public Buildings, 39; Palace Garden, 39; En- virons, 39 ; Steamers, 40
to Copenhagen, 41
Kierringo, 209 Kiilshommen, 196 Kile, 193
Kinback, 328
Kinne Kulle, mountain of,
319, 333 Kipen, 578 Kioge, 84 Kirghises, 600 Kirkvold, 238 Kirkwall, 95 Kishineff, 621 Kistruss, 602 Kjoer, 189 Kjalsta, 326 Kjelvik, 212 Kjosebunden, 197 Kloekken, 159 Klampenborg, 61 Klar Elv, 239 Klefshult, 337 Kleven, 215 Kliasma, River, 596 Klin, 535 Klinga, 316 Klintholm, 83 Kloften, 217 Klorup, 341 Klot, Baron, 529 Knappekula, 339 Knights, Livonian, 363
Teutonic, 363
Knudtzon Torkel, 373 Knuthenborg, 82 Kobberdal,2u7 Kobrip, 605 Kosciusko, 432, 433
Kohl, 395, 404, 409, 496, 516,
528, 546, 549, 555, 557, 570 Kokkersvold, 191 Kolare, 245 Kolback, 331 Kolding, 76, 94 Kolfva, 310 Kollangen, 333 Kollekmd, 345 Kolomna, 428 Kongelbcek, 239 Kongelf, 344 Kongen's Udsigt, 159 Kongsberg, 182
to the Riukan-fos, 183
Kongsgaard, 93 Kongsgaarden, 325 Kongsvinger, 239, 246 Kongsvold, 224 Konich, Battle of, 520 Konigsberg, 583 Koping, 331 Koppervik, 195, 215 Korolevski Traktir, 608 Koroli, Monastery of, 618 Korpikula, 245 Korsegaarden, 246 Korsodegaarden, 233
Korsor, 77 Koster, 83 Kostol, 192 Kotshetvi Dvori, 607 Kotzebue, 368 Koursk, 607
in Siberia, 601
Kovno, 584; Hotels, 586;
The French Army, 586 Kozelez, 588 Krageroe, 191 Kragsta, 329 Krasnoe, 604
Selo, 526
Krementschuk, 608 Kremlin, Erection of, 422 Krestsi, 532 Kringelen,221 Krogen, 237 Krogkleven, 159 Kroketorp, 339 Kronborg, Castle of, 88 Kroshuus, 185, 186 Kuban, River, 614 Kukkola, 245 Kulla, 341 Kullen, 90 KuUeryd, 341 Kumla, 335 Kungsbacka, 344 Kuralechovo, 608 Kutusoff, 434, 436, 472, 604 Kvandesvold, 252 Kyllingstad, 194 Kymen Waterfall, 372
L.
Laaksberg, Rocks of, 368
Labaume, 435, 603, 604
Laby, 324
Ladournaire, 529
Laga River, 337, 344
Lahne, Dr., 405
Laholra,344
Laing, Mr,, on Norway, 201
Lakes.— Oyeren, 217; Mio-
sen, 217 ; Oresund, 238 ;
Malar, 304, 315; Roxen,
316; Wettern, 318; We-
nern, 319 Landrath, the, 364 Landskrona, 343 Landvig, 192 Langbakke, 245 Langeland,81, 197 Langerak, 193 Langeron, Count, 610 Langesund, 191 Lang Fiord, 235 Langhei, 193 Langledet, 238 Langsceth, 200 Lapland, 327 Laplanders, Mr. Milford's
visit to the, 203, 403 Larbro-fos, 182 Laurgaard, 197, 222 Laurvig, 190 Lauven River, 190 Lazzareif, Admiral, 609
LOPSTA.
Lazaret at Odessa, 412 Laerrestvedt, 192 Leegardslyst, 92 Leer, 226 Leerdal Elv, 163 Leerlid, 187 Leervig, 197 Leervik, 196 Leekoslott, 319 Ledshastra, 336 Lefvar, 327 Leipsic, 594 Leirdalsoren, 165
to Bergen, 167
Leirfossen, 231 Leksand, 313 Leman NiprofFski, 620 Lenhofda, 341 Lerhol, 332 Leren Elv, 217 Lerum, 336 Lerwick, 96 Lessoe Jernvcerk, 234 Vand, 222, 234
Levanger, 201
Leydeii , 67
Libraries. — Kiel, 39; Copen- hagen, 48; Stockholm, 292; Skokloster, 305 ; Upsala,
307; Westeras, 331; Lin- koping, 336; Wexio, 338; Lund, 342; Helsingforss, 361; Reval,365; St.Peters- burgh, 466, 477? Moscow, 559; Dorpat, 579; Riga, 581; Mittau, 584; Warsaw, 593 ; Odessa, 610
Lid, 222
Lidar River, 333
Lidkoping, 333
Lie, 217
Lieberkuhn, 570
Lie Field, 186
Liege, 63
Lier Elv, 181
Lilla A by, 335 LillaEdet, 321,346 Lille, Count de, 584 Lillehammer, 219, 233 Lillesand, 92, 215 Lillnor, 346 Lind, Jenny, 297 Lindaas, 197 Linkoping, 317, 335 Linneus, 307 Lipoffsky, 577 Lipparjarfvi, 244 Lipsi, 607 Liselund, 83 Lislena, 330 Liten Lake, 326 Liubolin, 607 Livadia, 614 Ljoen, 193 Ljunby, 337 Ljung, 336 Lobdal, 193 Lochnitza, 604 Loder, 570
LoflToden Islands, 208 Lofsta, 310
630
DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN,
Index.
LOGBIERGET.
Logbierget, 83 LogenElv,233 LoUand (Laland) Island of, 81 Lorn Field, 252 Lomodden, 186 Lomsha, 591 Lonscet, 199 Lop, 591 Lopassnia, 606 Loppen, 211 Losnoes, 220 Louis XVIIL, 584 Louvain, 63
Lovisa, 371 ; Monolith of, 372 Lovo, 207
Lubeck, 60 ; Money, 70 ; Ca- thedral, 70 ; Churches, 71 ; Clock, 71; Raathaus, 72; Trade, 72; Steamers, 73, 438 Lubomirski, Prince, 592, 594 Luga, River, 585 . Town of, 585
Lulea, 328
to Haparanda, 328
Lum Fiord, 94, 253
Lumsheden, 313
Lund, 342; University, 342, Library, 342; Cathedral,342
Lund, 340, 346
Lunde, 193
Lunde-Vand, 194
Lundesogna Elv, 226
Luquet, Confiseur, 400
Lure, 194
Luther, 581
Luvoso, 207
Lyckeby, 340
Lyngdals Elv, 193
Lyngholmen, 195
Lysne, 165
Lyster Fiord, 165
M.
Moelandsmo, 185, 186
Magaratch, 619
Magdeburg, 302
Mageroe, 2l2
Maglevand's Valley, 83
Magnord,246, 332
Mahmet, 423
Maj, 325
Makarief, 597
Malachoffski, Count, 593
Mala Morskoi, 529
Malar Lake, 304, 315
Malines (Mechlin), 63
Malmo, 341
to Helsingborg, 342
Maloga, 346
Malo-Yarowslavitz, 436
Malsta, 325
Malta, 585
Mamai Khan, 577, 601
Mandal, 193
MangoupKal6,6l7; Descrip- tion of, 617; View from, 617; Jewish Cemetery, 617; Chambers in the rocks, 617
Mansbyn, 329
Margaret, Queen, Monument
of, 79 Margretorp, 343 Mark, 327 Markaryd, 337 Marklunda, 338 Maria Theresa, 368 Marieboe, 81 Marienborg, 89 Marienburg, Hall at, 583 Marienpol, 586, 591 Mariestad, 319, 333 Mariestuen, 164 Mariosara, 245 Marsanda, 619 Marselisseborg, the wood of,
92 Marsta, 324 Marstrand, 323 Mary, Queen of Scots, 468 Masovia, Princes of, 593 Matarengi, 245 Matkull, 338
Matuschevitz, Count, 398 Mauritius, Saint, 366 Medem, Count, 584 Medvenca, 607 Mehede, 324 Melan Lake, 332 Melby. 333 Melbye, 246 Melhuus, 226 Mellerud, 346 Memel, 588 Menar, Louis of, 364 MenzikofF, Prince, 524 Mcrgentheim, Master of, 583 Mesne Vand, 233 Messelt, 237 Messengers, English Cabinet,
584 Metcalfe, Mr., 399 Meyendorf, Baron, 364 Michael, Grand Duke, 464,
524 Middelfart, 76 Midtskougen, 246 Miednoi, 535
Miloradovitch, General, 493 Miloslavski, 427 Minde, 217 Minden, 65
Mines. — Kongsberg, 182; Valle,187; Alten,210; Ro- raas, 238; Danemora, 309; Sala, 310; Falun, 311 Minim, 426, 543 Minsk, C05 Miosen Lake, 217 Mithridates, 613 ; Hill of, 613 M ittau, Palace near, 583 ; Ho- tels, 584; Description of, 584; St. John's Day, 584; Casino, 584; Picture Galle- ries, 584; Library of the Gymnasium, 584 ; Dili- gences, 584 Mjolby, 336, 338 Mjoren Lake, 336 Mocressi, 607
Mohilef, 588; Description of, 588
MOSCOW.
Mo-Myskie, 314, 325
Mockeln Lake, 338
Moe, 197, 233, 237
Moe, Elv, 233
Moen, 220
Moen, Island of, 83
Moglestu, 192
Molde, 199, 215, 235 ,
Molmen, 234
Moloen, 215
Money. — Danish, 16; Ham- burg, 32; Belgian, 62; Prussian, 64; Hanoverian, 65; Dutch, 67; Lubeck, 70; Norwegian, 101 ; Swe- dish, 255; Russian, 350, 379
Money, Leather, 423
Monsteras, 340
Montferrand, Mons., 511
Mora, 313
Mora stone, the, 309
Morast, 246, 332
Moreau, General, 404, 481
Morsun, Caroline, 359
Morstue, 233
Morup, 344
Mosby, 193
Moscow, 426, 435, 436; En- trance to, 536; Tower of Soukhareff, 536; History of, 536; Description of, 637 ; Topography of, 537 ; The Kremlin, 538; Spass Vorota Gate, 539; Nicholas Gate, 540; The Terema, 541 ; The Granovitaya Pa- lata, 541; The Bolshoi Dvoretz, 542; The Maloi Dvoretz, 542; The Uspen- ski Sabor, 543; The Syno- dalni Dom, 544; Holy Oil, 545; The Arkhangelskoi Sabor, 545 ; Tombs of the Tzars, .546; Portraits of, 546; Church of the Annun- ciation, 546; The Trea- sury, 547; Regalia, 548; Polish Sceptre, 549; The Arsenal, 550 ; French Can- non, r>50 ; English Cannon, .550; Tzar Kolokol, 551; Tower of Ivan Veliki, 552 ; View from the Summit of, 6.53; Cathedralof St. Basil, 554; Chapel of the Iberian Mother of God, 555; Vos- kressenskaia Vorota, .555; Monastery of the Donskoi, 656; Cemetery of, 557; Se- minoflf Monastery, 557 ; Chaunting, 558 ; Bass voices, 558; Devitchei Con- vent, 558; The Devitchei Fall, 558; Royal Tombs, 559; Cemetery, 559; The Androniefskoi Monastery, 559; Tshudoff Monastery, 559; Library of the Sa Ikono Spasskoi Monas- tery, 559; The Foundling Hospital, 559; Palace and
Index.
FINLAND, AND RUSSIA.
631
MOSEBAAKEN.
Gardens of Peterskoi, 561 ; Theatres, 562; Great Rid- ing School, 562; Empress's Villa, 563; Galitzin Gar- dens, 563; The Sparrow Hills, 564; View of the city from, 564; Prisoners, 564; Warsaw Gate, 565; Market-Places, 565; Kitai Gorod, 565; The Riadi, 565; Second-hand Markets, 567; Winter Market, 567; Tea-houses, 568; Troitzka Traktir, 568 ; The English Chapel, 569; The Mosque, 569; University of, 570; Summary, 571; Gypsies, 571 ; Calculating Machine, 672; The Races, 572; The Mass, 572; Feasts and Ce- remonies, 573; Armenian Church, 573 ; The Smith's Bridge, 574; Shops there, 574; LukmanofTs Maga- zine, 574; Flower Market, 574; Public Promenades, 574; Tver Boulevards, 574; Alexander Gardens, 574; Clubs, 574; Astankina, 574 ; Moscow Appurtenances, 575; A116edesPeuples,575; Khoonsova, 675
Mosebaaken, 357
Mosgaard, 92
Moshaisk, 603
Moshni, 532
Mossoe, 92
Moshuus, 219
Moss, 215, 247
Mosterhavn, 195, 215
Mountains — Gousta Field, 159; Jolum Fields, 161 ; Hugakollen, 162 ; Fille Field, 163; Skagstol Tend, 165, 251; Justedal, 165; Skogshorn, 179; Eggedals Field, 179; Tessung Field, 185 ; Harteigen, 185 ; Lie Field, 186; Broke Field, 186; Solfond Nup, 187; Hardanger, 187 ; Steens Field, 197 ; Lang Field, 197; Skole, 199; Seven Sisters, 207 ; Rundane, 221 ; Haalangen Field, 222 ; Do- vre Field, 222; Horun- gerne, 232; Broste Field, 234; Roms-dals-horn, 234; Troldtinderne,234; Troms Field, 237; Lom Field, 252 ; Kinne Kulle, 319, 333; Tchatir Dag, 619
Moxa Elv, 220
Mtsensk, 606
Mukalatka, 615
Munkholm, Fortress of, 230
Muonio River, 244
Muonioniska, 244
Murom, 596 ; Description of, 596 *
Museums. — Hamburg, 35; Kiel, 39; Copenhagen, 47,
49,50; Bergen, 176; Trond- hjem, 230; Stockholm, 291,296; Helsingforss, 361 ; St. Petersburgh, 481, 482, 483, 486, 489; Moscow, 570; Dorpat, 579 ; Warsaw, 593 ; Odessa, 610 Mustapha Kara, 594 Mutton, Astrakan, 402 Myrmecium, 613
N.
NoerOens Fiord, 168 Ncerosund, 215 Ncerstrands Fiord, 195 Noes, 179, 240 Ncese, 196 Noeverdal, 237 Nagui, Andrew, 636 Nakskov, 81 Namsen River, 202 Napoleon , 433, 434, 435, 436,
437, 561, 586, 687, 588, 603,
604 Narev, River, 591 Narishkin, Mr., 529 Narova, River, 578 Falls of, 579
Narva, 428, 678 ; Description of, 578 ; Ivangorod, 578
Naryshkins, Tombs of the, 477
Natalia, 427, 428, 544
Neby, 233, 237, 239
Nebbelof, 338
Nedansjo, 326
Nedre Vaage, 235
Nelson, Lord, 364
Nestor the Annalist, 589
Neva, Water of, 404
Batttle of, 421
Inundation of, 445
Nevski, St. Alexander, 421, 449, 476, 596
Newspapers, 401 , 529
Ney, 586, 603
Nicholas I., 364, 367, 437, 448, 453, 465, 486, 491, 496, 506, 514, 515, 519, 524, 526, 541, 542, 643, 566, 576, 593, 598, 606, 608
Fort, 616
Nickala, 329
Nicolaieff, 608 ; Description
of, 608; Dockyards, 609;
Observatory, 609; Ferry,
609 Nicon, the Patriarch, 544,
576 Nid Elv, 191 Nid River, 228 Nidaros, 227 Niemen, River, 434, 586, 604,
605 Niemio, 245 Nikita, Botanical Garden of,
404, 619
NTSTUEN.
Nitte Elv, 217
Njurunda River, 325
Nobbeled, 338, 341
Noklebye, 233
Nohl, 334, 346
Nord, 239
Norderhong, 180
Nordgaard, 187
Nordgulena, 197
Nord Arnoen, 207
Noret, 313
Norje, 341
Norlid, 239
Norrby, 340
Nors River, 332, 346
North Cape, the, 212
Norway, 100; Routes from England, 101 ; Money, Weights, and Measures, 101 ; Passports, 103 ; Modes of Travelling, 103; Inns, 104; Steamers, 104; Boats, 105; Carrioles, 105, 106; Four-wheeled Carriages, 106 ; Requisites for travel- ling, 106; Posting regula- tions, 107; Alphabet, Vo- cabulary, 115; Scenery and Sketching, 123; Angling, 126; Salmon, 125; Trout, 126; Flies and rods, 127; Shooting, 127; Game Laws, 129 ; Fields, Fiords, and Valleys, 130; Geology, 131; Mineralogy, 131 ; Climate, 131 ; Population, 132 ; His- torical Notice, 132 ; Go- vernment, 138; Storthing, 138; Religion, 139; Public Instruction, 140; Justice, 140 ; Press, 141 ; Army and Navy, 141 ; Revenue, 141 ; People, 142 ; Productive Industry, 143; Agriculture, 143; Forests, 144; Fishe- ries, 146; Commerce, 146; Internal and ForeignTrade, 146; Exports and Imports, 146; Commercial Marine, 147; Literature, 147
Novgorod, 419, 420, 423; De- scription of, 631; Money first coined, 531 ; Tomb of Feodor, 532; Alarm Bell, 547, 648
Nijni, 595; En-
trance to, 597 ; Population, 697; Hotel, 597; Minim and Pojarski, 598; Fair, 698; Description of, 598; Mosque, 600 ; Tea quarter, 600 ; Theatre, 601
Novoselitza, 621, 622
Nuppi Vara, 243
Ny Carleby, 377
Nyeborg, 77
Nykoping, 335
Nyekioping, 82
Nyso, 84
Nysted, 194
Nystad, Treaty of, 374, 428
Nystuen, 163, 234
632
DENMAKK, NORWAY, SWEDEN,
Index.
OBOJAN.
o.
Obojan, 607
Oby. 313 Odegaarden, 191 Odempa, Lord of, 580 Oden, 220 Odense, 76
Odeshog, 336
Odessa, 603, 605; Hotels, 609; Description of, 609; The Exchange, 610; Boule- vard, 610; Theatres, 610; Statute of the Duke de Richelieu, 610; Monster Staircase, 610; Library, 610; Antiquities, 610; Ho- ward's Candlestick, 610 ; Granaries, 611 ; Bathing, 611; Parlatoire, 611; Bo- tanical Garden, 611; Steam- boats, 612, 620, 621, 622
Ofte, 187
Ojeby, 328
Okha, River, 596, 598
Retreat from the, 422
Olaf, St., Cemetery of, 92; Birthplace of, 221 ; Death of, 201 ; Shrine of, 228
Olai, St., 365
Village of, 583
Oland, Island of, 287, 340 Olbia, 610 Olchovatka, 607 Oldeslohe, 69 Olen Fiord, 195
Olfernoes, 196 Olgopol, 590 Omelnik, 608 Omthvett, 186 Onska, 327 Oopa, River, 606 Oppegaard, 180 Ophuus, 237 Opthun, 251
Or, 338 Orchitza, 587 Orebyhus, 359 Ore River, 328 ,
Orebro, 331
Or^l, 606; Description of,
606; Public Gardens, 606;
Great Fire, 606 Orenburgh, 614
Oresund Lake, 238
Orgeief, 621
Orkla Elv, 200
Orkney Islands, 95
OrloflF, Count G., 463, 491,
510.517,521, 585 OrloflFsky, the Artist, 522, 529 Ormem, 234 Oronst, Island of, 345 O'Rourke, Count, 364 Orsa, 314
Orselska, Countess, 592 Orsha, 587; Description of,
587, 604
Osboigd Elv, 185 Osma, River, 603
Ostad, 336 Ostend, 62
Osterby, Forges of, 310 Osterbyn, 346 Oster Fiord, 196
Ostersund, 326
OsterSen, Island of, 173
Osterricsor, 191,215
OstraLjunby, 337
Ostre, 189
Ostre Bagholm, 195
Ostroff, 585
Ostud-fos, 170
Ostvik, 202
Otrada, 606
Ottakar the Great, 583
Otta Elv, 221
Oudinot, Marshal, 604
Ougedal, 160, 232
Oune, 200
Ous, 238, 239, 246
Elv, 239
Ouse Fiord, 157 Ousembash, 618 Ousoren, 196 Oust, 226 Oustad, 239 Overdrevsbakken, 84 Overgaard, 202 Ovidiopol, 620 Ovinna Elv, 194 Ovne, 225 Oxenstiern, Axel, 361
Gabriel, 361
Oyeren Lake, 217, 239 Oylve, 162
P.
Paboda, 340
Panticapoeum, 613
Poekkila, 245
Palajoensum, 244
Palajock River, 244
Paskallavik, 340
Pello, 245
Person, .328
Petersburgh, St., Approach to, 441 ; Topography of, 442 ; Nefskoi Prospekt, 447; Winter Palace, 452; Hermitage, 456; Marble Palace, 463; Taurida Pa- lace, 463; Michailoff Pa- lace, 464 ; Annitchkoff Pa- lace, 465; Palace of the Grand Duke Michael, 465; Imperial Library, 466 ; Ka- zan Cathedral, 469; Izak Church, 473; Smolnoi Church, 475 ; Monastery of St. Alexander Nevskoi, 476; Preobrajensky Church, 478 ; Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, 478 ; Cottage of Peter the Great, 479; Church of the Holy Tri-
PROBSTEY.
ity, 480; English Church, 480; the Roman Catholic Church, 481 ; Academy of Sciences, 481; Museum of Peter the Great, 483 ; Aca- demy of Arts, 484 ; Roman- zoff" Museum, 486; Tech- nological Institution, 486; Corps of Cadets and other Military Academies, 487 ; Corps des Mines, 488 ; Ecole du G6nie, 490; Old and New Arsenals, 491 ; Found- ling Hospital, 495; Obou- koff Hospital, 498; Gos- tinnoi Dvor, 498; Apraxin Rinok, 501 ; Tshukni Dvor, 503; Sennaia Plos- chad, 505; Factories, 506; Theatres, 508; Statue of Peter the Great, 510 ; Alex- ander Column, 511; Ro- manzoff Monument, 512 ; Suwaroff" Monument, 513 ; Summer Gardens, 513 ; Gardens of Catherinenhoff, 514; The Islands, 514; Tzars koSelo, 517; Strelna, 521 ; Peterhoff, 522 ; Sum- mary, 525; Riding House, 525; Palace of the Senate, 525 ; Hotel de I'Etat Major, 525; Exchange, 525; Pa- rade Grounds, 526; Easter, 526; Ice Hills, 527; Fox Hounds, 527; Fish Maga- zines, 527; Fruit Shops, 528 ; English Magazine, 528; New Bazaar, 528; Coffin Shops, 528; Wine and Beer Cellars, 528; Mi- neral Waters, 529 ; Picture Galleries, 529 ; Russian Ar- tist's, 529 ; Restaurateurs and Caf^s, 529
Petigorski, 614
Pharnaces, 613
Pictures, collections of. —Co- penhagen, 46 ; Cologne, 64 ; Dusseldorf, 65; Antwerp, 6Q ; the Hague, 67 ; Chris- tiania, 153; Bergen, 175; Stockholm , 291 St. Peters- burgh, 458, 523; Mittau, 584 ; Warsaw, 594
Pilkrog, 335
Pinneberg, 74
Piroga, 502
Pitea, 328
to Lulea, 328
Plon, 69 Poniatowski, Prince, 594 Pojarski, General, 426, 543 Porsgrund, 191 Portsnas, 328 Potzdam,302 Prcestebierget, 83 Proesto Fiord, 84 Preetz, 69 Prestbol, 332 Prinsdal, 246 Probstey,40
Index.
FINLAND, AND RUSSIA.
633
QVAM. •
Q.
Qvam,202
Qvam, church of, 221 Qvame, 162 Qvande, 200 Qvarsebo, 339 Qvibille, 344 Qvikne, 237 Qviinge, 338 Qvistrum, 345
R.
Raahol(lt,217,232,245 Raaholt, 239 Rabalshede, 345
Raby, 336
Radzivill, Prince, 592, 605
Wife of, 605
Sister of, 605
Roege Fiord, 215
Rafsunds Lake, 326
Rakino, 532
Raknebo, 331
Railroads.— Altona to Kiel, 38 ; Berlin to Stettin, 303 ; Brunswick to Magdeburg, 302; Copenhagen to Roe- skilde, 80 ; Dentz to Han- over, 65 ; Hanover to Brunswick, 302; Hanover to Harburg, 65; Magde- burg to Berlin, 302 ; Ostend to Cologne, 62; Rotter- dam to Arnheim, 67; St. Petersburgh to Moscow, 384 ; St. Petersburgh to Tzarsko Selo, 384
Ramundeboda, 333
Ranbyn, 328 Randers, 95 Rands Fiord, 159 Ranea River, 328 Rattwick, Church of, 313 Rauma Elv, 234 Raumo, 377 Razumoffski, 465 Reaumur's thermometer, 412 Ree, 194 Reed, 197 Reen Elv, 236 Refsland, 194 Refsudden, 340 Regictza, 585 Reikavik, 97 Reien, 161 Reiersdal, 193 Reindeer travelling, 241 Reisen Elv, 209 Relingden, 198 Rembis-fos, 170 Remeim, 198 Rena, Elv, 237 Rendestrom , 197 Rendsburg, 74, 253 Rennisoe, 195 Reshetilovka, 608 Revaa, 189
Reval, 362 ; Hotels, 362, 591 ; Cistercian Convent, 362 ; Cisternpforte, 362; Linda- nisse. Fortress of, 362; Dom Hill,362; The Rilterbank, 364; The Dom, 364; Olai Kirche, 364; St. Nicholas, Church of, 365; Picture of the Crucifixion, 365; Dance of Death, 365 ; Ro- sen Chapel, 365; Duke de Croy,365; Russian Church, 366; Hotel de Ville, 366; Guildhalls, 366 ; The Schwarzen Haupter, 367; Altar piece, 367; Dom Church, 367; Tombs of Thurn, Horn, and De la Gardie, 367, 368; The Schmieedetforte, 368 ; Jar- markt, 368 ; Catherinen- thal, 308; Population, 369 ; Bathing, 369; Monastery of Padis Kloster, 369; Ar- senal, 370; The Club, 370; Monument to Admiral Grieg, 370
Riazan, 602
Ribas, Admiral, 610
Ribe, 94
Richeheu, Duke de, 610
Riga, 581 ; Hotels, 581, 588; Description of, 581; Flower Feast, 582; The Hunger Sorrow, 582; The Wards, 582 ; The Schwert Bruder, 582
Riisfiord, 212
Riklea, 328
Rilanda, 329
Ringen, Lord of, 580
Ringkiobing, 94
Ringsted, 79
Risalaks, Granite Quarries at,
373 Rise, 225 Rissby, 340 Riukan-fos, 183
to the Voring-fos, 185
Rivers, subterraneous, 207
Rodbjerget,215
Rodland, 196
Rodnces, 160
Rddset, 198
Rodsceth, 235
Rodven Fiord, 235
Roe, 179
Roed, 194
Roeskilde, 79, 85 ; Cathedral,
79 ; Royal monuments, 79;
Railway, 80 Rogstad, 238 RoUo, Duke of Normandy,
castle of 198 Romanoff, Michael, 426, 427,
539, 549
Daughter of, 545
SALMON.
Ror Fiord , 186 Roraas, 238 Rorvigstrand, 194 Rosen, Count, 364 Rosenberg, 300 Rosendal, Palace of, 298 188
Romanzoff, General, 431, 477,
486, 512 Romsdals-horn, 234 Ronnede, 84 Ropp, Count, 584
Rosenvold, 93
Rosseland, 191
Rossvig, .328
Rostof, Metropolitan of, 426
Rotali, Count, 523
Rotebro,324
Rotterdam, 67
Rudkiobing, 81
Rudsberg, 331
Rugen, Island of, 303
Ruilka Tcherney, River, 615
Rundals Elv, 169
Rundane Mountains, 222
Runeberg, the Poet, 371
Runeby, 340
Rurik, 419, 425
Russia, 379; Money, 379; Steamboats, 382, 535 ; Rail- ways, 384; English Pass- port, 384; Custom House, 385; Carte-de-S6jour, 386; Russian Passport, 386 ; Travelling, 388 ; Padarosh- na,388; Posting, 388; Dili- gences, 391; Voituriers,391 ; Droshkies, 393 ; Job Carri- ages, 393; Baths, 395; Stoves, 397; Hotels, 398; Boarding Houses, 398, 529 ; Lodgings, 398 ; Restaur- ants, 402, 529 ; Cafes, 402 ; Tea-houses, 402; Roads, 405; Roadside accommo- dation, 405; Lacquey -de- place, 408; Servants, 408; Climate, 410; Clothing, 410; Vocabulary, 412; Names of the Months, 417; Days of the Week, 417; Numerals, 418 ; Weights, 418; Historical Notice, 418 Russian Malo, 418 Rutledal, 197 Rydboholm, 300 Ryen, 238 Ryg, 202
S,
Saffian, 535 Scebo, 169 Soeby, 95 Seem void, 196 Seem, 186, 202 Sceter, 200 Soeter Aae,222 Sceter Beverthun, 252 Safvar, 328 Saifvits, 329 Sala, 310 Salaup Fiord Salen Lake, 338 Salhuus, 207
Salmon fishing. — Hardanger Fiord, 171; Hel-fos, 192;
634
DENMAKK, NORWAY, SWEDEN,
Index,
SAMBIRIA.
Namsen, 206; Alten, 210; Sundal, 225; Giila Elv, 226; Trondhjem,231; Rau- ma Elv, 234; Elfkarleby, 324; Angerman River, 327; Falkenberg, 344
Sambiria Margaretta, 363
SamoilofF, 580
Samsoe, Island of, 95
Sand, 160
Sandbacka, 313
Sandoesund, lf)0
Sandfarhuus, 200
Sandnces, 193
Sands Fiord, 195
Sandtorvholm, 209
Sandven Vand, 188
Sangito, 329
Sanna, 325
Sannces, 193
Sannassoen, 207
Sapieha, Prince, 577> 592
Saraphan, 533
Sarpsborg, 247
Sarps-fos. 247
Sathalla, 239
Sauesund, 215
Sauromatoe, 418
Saxkioping, 82
Saxo Grammaticus, 78, 80
Saxtorp, 348
Sbiteen, 402
Scanderberg, 92
Scandinavia, 1 ; Maxims and Suggestions,4; Books upon Scandinavia, 5; Passports and Lists of Ambassadors, 6 ; Money, 7 ; Steamers, 8 ; Travelling, Servants, 9; Carriages, 9; Clothes and Luggage, 10 ; Skeleton Tours, 11
Scavshedshika, 585
Schjefveland, 194
Schooba, price of, 441
Schor, Mr., 399
Schot, the, 572
Schwarzen Haupter, 365, 588
■ Monu- ment to, 367
Schwerdt Bruder, 364
Sclavonians, 418
Sconevigsoen, 195
Sedlze, 605
Segeberg, 69
Seglerum, 328
Seid Elv, 220
Seierstad, 207
Selbo Lake, 231
Selet, 328
Selichova Dvori, 60/
Seljestad, 187
Selsovik,207
Semiafska, Countess, 594
Sergiefscoi, 606
Sergius, St., 576
Serpuchoff, 606
Seruti, 587
Sevastopol, 612, 613, 614; Inn, 615; Docks, 615; Fortifications, 616; Laza- ret, 616; Church near it.
616: Inkerman, 616; Har- bours, 616 ; Reservoirs, 617
Sevre, 179
Seyland, 211
Sezara, River, 605
Shetland Islands, 96
Shtshie, a Soup, 402
Shuttleworth, Mr., 408
Siaberdasjock, 243
Siberia, 548, 614
Sieland (see Zealand)
Sigismund, 426
III., 592, 594
Sigstad, 236 Sigtuna, 304 Sillegjord Vand, 186 Siljan Lake, 313 Simferopol, 618, 619, 620 Sinclair, Col., account of,
221,234 Sirnoes, 194 Sirrevaags Elv, 194 Sis Fiord, 234 Sisopolis, 610 Sivoritzi, 585 Sjogerum, 339 Skaav, 197 Skagen, 95
Skagstol Tind, 165, 251 Skalholt, 98 Skallerud, 345 Skalstugan, 241,326 Skanderborg, Lake of, 92 Skangs Elv, 185 Skare, 188 Skatungebyn, 314 Skeager, 252 Skedshult, 339 Skei, 197
Skejerjehavn, 196, 215 Skeleftea River, 328 Skien, 191 Skifarf, .341 Skifstad, 200 Skillinge, 340 Skillingeryd, 337 Skjcebro Field, 233 Skjcervo, 209 Sjolden, 251 Sklof, 587
Skuratovo Bolshci, 606 Malencoi, 606
Skogshorn, 179 Skokloster, Chateau of, 305 Skole, 199 Skomedal, 193 Skrimstad, 217 Skyttie fos, 170 Slagelse, 77 Sleswig, 75 Sletteboe, 194 Slevolden, 191 Sloinge, 344 Slonim, 605 Slupza, 595 Slyngstad, 198 Smedsbo, 313 Smedshammer, 160 Smirdin, Mr., 529 Smith Bridge, 399, 574 Smolensk, 434, 603 Virgin of, 558
STATION.
Snaasen Vand, 302 Sneehcetten, 223 Snoghoi, 76
Sobieski, John, 593, 594 Soderby, 309 Soderhamn, 325 Soderkioping, 316 Sodertelje, 316, 335 Sognedals Elv, 180 Sogne Field, 251
Fiord, 167
River, 193
Sogstad, 232
Runic obelisk at, 232
Soholt, 82, 198, 235 Soknoes, 226 Solfoiid Nup, 187 Sollebrun, 334 Sollerod, 190 Sollesnoes, 235 Solova, 606 SolsterVand, 197 Sommen Lake, 339 Sommerspiret, 83 Somovar, 407 Sophia, St., Church of, 585
■ Gardens of, 585
Princess of Constan-
tinople, 424, 549
Tzarina, 427,428,559
Sopnoes, 209 Sorbye, 190 Sor Fiord, 188 Sorknces, 237 Sorlid, 237 Sdrmjole, 328 Soro, Academy of, 78 Sor6 Sund, 211 Sor Russevaag, 209 Sorte, 235 Sorterberg, 180 Sottunga, Island of, 358 Soudebnik, Code, 425 Soudogda, 5.96 Sound Duties, 90 Sdvik, 207 Soyland, 194 Spada, Signor, 611 Spanga, 331
Spaniards in Nyeborg, 77 Sparlosa, 333 Sparresholm, 84 Spaskaia, Polist, 531 Spildum, 202 Spink, Mr., 529 Spjute,327 Spodsbierg, 81 Sprogde, 77 Stabo3k, 181 Stabby, 329
Staircase, the Devil's, 615 Stalhandsk, General, 359 Stalheim, 169 Stalljernstugan, 326 Stallaponen, 584, 586 Stamgarden,326 Stangebro, battle of, ^36 Stanislas, Augustus, 593, 594 Starhult, 338 Stathelle, 191
Station, Railway at St. Pe- tersburgh, 384
Index.
STAVANGBK.
Slav anger, 194
to Bergen, 195
Hardanger Fiord, 195
Steamers.-Kiel, 40 ; Copen- hagen, 60, 95 ; London, 62, 66 ; Christiania, 157 ; Minde, 218; Trondhjem, 231; Lubeck, 285; Stock- holm, 300; Malar Lake, 315: Gottenburg,323; Fin- land, 351, 362; Russian, 382, 535, 612, 620, 621, 622
Stee, 162
Steege, 83
Steensballegaard, 93
Steensfield, 197
Steens Fiord, 159
Steenkjcer, 202
Steensoen, 207
Steiglitz, Baron, 508
Stein, 239
Steppes, description of, o88
Sterlet Fish, 402
Stettin, 303
to Ystad, 303
Stigamo, 338
Stikkelstad, 201
battle of, 201
Carl .Tohan's visit to, 202
St6en,237
Stocketorp, 341
Stockholm, 289; Inns, 289; Cafes, 289; Stora, or Little Club, 289; Post-office, 289; Bank of Sweden, 289; Valets-de-place, 289; Society, 290; Royal Mu- seum, 291; Picture Gal- lery, 291; Collection of Drawings, 292; Sculpture Gallery, 292 ; Egyptian and Etruscan collections, 292 ; Royal wardrobe, 292; Roy- al Library,292; Money and Medallion Cabinet, 293; Cabinet of Northern Anti- quities, 293 ; Chapel Royal, 294 ; Obelisk and Statue of Gustavus IIL, 294; Royal stables, 294 ; Churches, 294 ; Riddarhuus, 296 ; Statue of Gustavus Vasa, 296; Mint, 296; Cabinet of Minerals and Fossils, 296 ; Gardens of the Horticultu- ral Society, 296; Zoologi- cal Museum, 296; By- strom's Studio,297 ; Royal Theatre, 297; Djurgaard, 298; Palace of Rosendal, 298; Haga Park, 298; Ob- servatory, 298; Cemetery, 299; Park of Carlberg, 299 ; Royal Porphyry Ware- house, 299; Police Office, 299; Droskis, 299; Passage boats, 299; Environs, 300 ; Drotnhigholm,300; Svart- sjo Rosenberg, 300 ; Ryd- boholm, 300; Gripsholm, 300 ; Strengnoes, 300 ; Steamers, 300
FINLAND, AND KUSSIA.
Stocksjon, 328
Stok Elv, 232
Stolepaen, 584, 586
Storbjorvboda, 331
Stor Fiord, 234
Stor Lake, 245
Stora Logdan River, 327
Stora Aby, 335
Stordals Elv, 200
Storhammer, 218
Storms Lake, 326
Stot,207
Straken Lake, 348
Stralsund, 303
Strand, 161,207,311,332
Strand Fiord, 161
Strande, 236
Strande Fiord, 196
Stratjara, 325
Strelai, an Arrow, 424
Strelitzes, 424, 426, 427, 492
Strelna, 521
Stroengnces, 300
Stroganof, Count, 529
Stromstad, 345
Struve, Professor, 579
Struve's Mineral Waters, 529
Studzianca, 604
Stuen, 225
Stutgard, 583
Sundbo, 186
Sundby, 94
Sundbye, 82, 239, 246, 247
Sundfiord, 196
SundalsElv, 199
Sundseth, 225
Sundsvall, 325
_ to Ostersund, 325
to Umea, 327
Sundvolden, 159, 180
o
Sunnana, 328
Suomemna, 355
Sura Elv, 199
Surash, 587
Suulstuen, 241, 326
Suwalki, 591
Suwaroff, Marshal, 432, 433,
467, 477, 492, 513, 620 Svoerholt, 211 Svalestad, 194 Svanberga, 329 Svardsbro, 335
Svart An, 330
Svart Elv, 233, 236
Svarte Elv, 186
Svarteberg, 345
Svartsjo, Palace of, 300
Svee, 252
Svendborg, 81
Svenlosh River, 605
Svennarum, 338
Svetaja Balki, 608
Svincer, 207
Sweaborg, Fortress of, 360, 362
Sweden, 254; Routes from England, 255 ; Money, Measures, Weights, 255 ; Passports, 257; Modes of Travelling, 257 ; Inns, 257 ; Carriages, 258; Requisites
635
THEATRES, for Travellers,258 ; Forbud, 259; Posting Regulations, 259; Vocabulary and Dia- logues, 261; Scenery and Sketching, 266; Anglmg, 267; Shooting and Game Laws, 267 ; Lakes and Ri- vers, 268; Geology, 268; Mineralogy, 269; Forests, 269, 280; Climate, 269; Population, 269; Historical Notice, 269 ; Government, 276; Diet, 276; Religion, 276; Public Instruction, 276; Press, 277; Justice, 277 ; Army and Navy, 277 ; Orders of Knighthood, 278 ; Public Finance, 278; Royal Family, 278 ; People, 279 ; Productive Industry, 280; Mines, 280; Fisheries, 281; Manufactures, 281 ; Com- merce, 281; Foreign Trade, 282 ; Literature, 282 ; Churches, 282 ; Canals, 283
Swinemunde, 303
Swinesund, 249
Sylte, 198
Systad, 197
T.
Taars, 81
Taarvik, 199
Tafra, 327
Taganrog, 437, 614
Taleren, 83
Taman, Island of, 614
Tamerlane, 422, 536
Tana Elv, 210
Tang, 344
Tannenberg, Battle of, 583
Tanno, 337
Tapian, 586
Tarrakan, insect, 579
Tartars, 613, 614, 617, 618
Crim, 690
Kalmuck, 431
. Nogai, 600
Tauroggen, 584
Tchatir Dagh, 619, 620
Tchergana, 615
Tcherkask, 602
Tchernigof, 588; Descrip- tion of, 588 ; Gymnasium, 588
Tchernovetz, 620, 621, 622
Tchesme, 431
Chateau of, 517
Tchudova, 531 Tchufutkal6,618; View from,
618 ; Synagogue, 618 Tea Houses, 402 Telega, a Cart, 390 Tengs Elv, 194 Teraak, 207 Tessung Field, 185 Testaceus Mons, 613 Teterud, 232 Teutonic Order, Grand
Master of, 363, 58 J Theatres. — Hamburg, 35 ;
636
DENMAEK, NORWAY, SWEDEN,
Index.
THEODOSIA.
Copenhagen, 58 ; Christia- nia, 153; Bergen, 176; Trondhjem, 230; Stock- holm, 297; St. Petersburgh, 508, 509; Moscow, 562; Odessa, 610; Karkhoff, 607
Theodosia, 613, 614
Theseus, Temple of, 613
Thorn, Oak of, 583
Thronstadt, 198
Thorshavn, 96
Thorseng, 81
Thorwaldsen, 593
Thorwaldsen's Museum, 54
Thune, 162
Thurn, Count, 367
Thynoes, 240
Tible, 330
Tida River, 333
Tierna, 313
Tiflis, 614
Tilsit, 584
Treaty of, 434
Timmelhed, 336
Tingsta, Church of, 316 Tingvold Fiord, 199 Tirespol, 621 Tjernagelen, 195 Tjomsland, 194 Tjotoe, 207 Tjureda, 339 Tlettenberg, Walter Von,
581, 583 To Soeteren, 252 Tobol, 601 Tofte, 222 Tolly, Barclay de, 352, 434,
587 Tolstoy, the Artist, 529 Tomlevold, 161 Tonden Elv. 237, 239 Tonsberg, 190 Tonset, 237 Tonvold, 160 Topdal Elv, 192 Toroe, 328 Torghatten, 207 Torjok, 535 ; Description of, 535; Cutlets, 535; Em- broidery on Leather, 535 Torma, 579
Tomea, 245, 329, 376, 378 Torpane, 346 Torrisdals Elv, 192 Tortola, 245 Torvik, 235 Totak Vand, 185 Tott Clas, 359 Troeet, 195 Trakeryd, 337
Tranas,338, 341
Tranekicer, 81
Trasta, 329
Travemunde, 73
Trensum, 340
Trewheller, Mr., 606
Trodje, 325
Trods, 197
Troitzka, Monastery of, 422, 428, 575; Saint Sergius, founder of, 576; Descrip-
tion of, 576 ; Siege of, 576 ; Road to it, 575 ; Cave of a Recluse, 575 Troldtinderne, 243 Trolhattan, the Falls of, 320,
346 Tromsoe, 209 Troms Elv, 220 Tron-Field, 237, 239 Trondenoes, 209 Trondhjem, 226; Inns, 226; Post-office, 227; Passports, 227; National Bank. 228; Cathedral, 228; Arseoal, 230; Museum, 2.30; The- atre, 230; Environs, 2r50; Salmon Fishing, 231 ; Steamers, 231 Trondhjem to the Namsen, 200
to Hammerfest, 213
rosa, 335 rostem, 179 Trysil, 239 Tsheremoshnaje, 607 Tshurilova, 587 Tue Fiord, 212 Tuf, 179
Tula, 602; Description of, 606 ; Manufactory of Fire- arms, 606; Somovars, 606 ; Platina Snuff Boxes, 606 Turcomans, 600 Turks, 600, 621 Tuschki, 420 Tvede, 192 Tvedestrand, 191 Tver, 535; Description of,
535 Tveto Vand, 187 Tvinden, 169 Tyrhoug, 215 Tyri Fiord, 159 Tzar, title of, 424 Tzarsko Selo, 585 Tzchemia Griaz, 535
U.
Uddevalla, 334, 345 Uddne, 231 Udgaarden, 191 Udleire Tumulus at, 85 Udt, 93 Udvigen,197 Uggelsta, 309 Uleaborg, 378 Uifasa, 317 Ulfs Fiord, 209 UUen Elv, 221 Ulrikehamn, 336 Umea, 328
to Pitea, 328
Ungern, 364
Universities. — Kiel, 39; Co- penhagen, 53; Christiania, 153; Upsala, 307; Lund, 342; Helsingforss, 361 ; St. Petersburgh, 487 ; Moscow, 670; Dorpat, 579; Kief, 590; Warsaw, 5!)3; Wilna, 595; Karkhoff, 607
riBOKG.
Uppbo, 311
Uppland, 326
Upsala, 306; Cathedral, 306; Linneus, 306 ; Tomb of Gustavus Vasa, 306 ; Uni- versity, 307 ; Botanical Garden, 308 ; Palace, 308
Upsala, Old, 308
to Falun, 310
Upton, Colonel, 615 Urlands Fiord, 167 Utby, 313 Utne, 188 Utrecht, 68 Utza Vand, 163 Uxkiill, Bishop of Reval, 370 of Reisenberg, 368
Uzbek Khan, 422
Vaagboen, 199
Vaags Fiord, 197
Vaaler, 239
Veer Elv, 201
Voera River, 240
Voerdals Fiord, 201
Voerdal, Mr. Laing's descrip- tion of, 240
Vahlen, 196
Valdai, Hills of, 532
Valki, 606, 607
Crown Peasants at, 606
Valle, 187
Vallo, Castle of, 84
Valloe, Salt Works at, 190, 215
Valquin, Grand Master, 582
Vaniofka, 607
Vang, 160
Vangs Fiord, 169
Varde, 94
Vasbotten, 191
Vasenden, 197
Vasendred, 180
Vashani, 606
Vathne, 193
Vatne-dal, 193
Veblungsnceset, 234
Vedmenski Savod, 606
Veeme, 180
Veglie Elv, 221
Veilandova, 608
Veile, 93
Velikije Luki, 587
Vemmences, 81
Vemundirk, 207
Venef, 602
Venemoe Elv, 187
Vermen Lake, 338
Verviers, 64
Vest Fiord, 209
Vestgaard, 237, 245
Vestnoes, 235
Viasma, 603
French at, 603
Viasniki, 597
Viborg, 94, 373 ; Description of, 373; Post House, 373; Restaurants, 373; Port of, 373; Tower, 373; Finnish
index.
VICTOR. Passport, 374; Cataract near, 377 Victor, Marshal, 604 Vidostern Lake, 337 Vie, 202 Vienna, 622 Vigedalsoren, 187 Vigeland, 193 Vigesaae, 194 Viig, 220 Vikersund, 180 Vikor, 188 Vilkofski, 586 Vilkomir, 585, 595 Villa Elv, 226 Village, Tartar, 614 Vindeby, 81
Vines, Collection of, 619 Vinje, 167, 187 Vinstra Elv, 225 Virboklen, 586 Vishni Volotchok, 534; De- scription of, 534; Canal, 534 Vismund Elv, 232 Vissenberg, 76 Vistula River, 591 Vitepsk, 587 Viuls Elv, 159
Vladimir I., the Great, 419, 544, 589, 590, 616
II., Monomachus,
420, 548
Grand Duke, 588
Dukes of, 595
Town of, 595; Ca- thedral, 596
Vladislaus, Prince, 426
Vocabulary, Norwegian, 115; Swedish, 261; Russian, 412
Vodka, Corn Brandy, 402
Vojakola, 245
Vola, 543, 595
Votchova River, 531
Volga River, 535, 598, 601
» Steamboats on the, 535
Volkof , Artist, 522
Vollum, 226, 238
Volotja, 606
Voltaire, 648
Volu Lake, 222
Vordal, 201
Voring-fos, 169
Vormen Elv, 233, 239
Vossevangen, 169
to Bergen, I7I
VretaKloster, Church of,3l7
W.
Woehr, 93 Wadeacka, 334 Wadstena, 313
FINLAND, AND RUSSIA.
637
I
Waivara, 579
Wald. the Printer, 361
Waldemar, II., 362
Waldemar's Castle, 81
Walk, 580
Wall, 331
Wanas, Fortress of, 318
Wandsbeck, 37, 68
Wanberg, 344
Warnaby, 340
Warsaw, 432, 548, 595, 605; Description of, 591; First View of, 591 ; Suburb of Praga, 591; Palaces, 592; Zamek,592; Hotel deVille, 592; Jardin de Saxe, 592; Statue of Copernicus, 593 ; Restaurateur, 593; Uni- versity, 593; Botanical Gar- den, 593; Churches, 593; Tombs of Masovian Princes, 5.93 ; Monument toJohnSobieski,593; Ujaz- lov, 594; Castle of Willa- now, 594; Villa Lazsinsky, 594 ; Jablona, 594
Wasa, 377
Wassmolosa, 340
Waterfalls.— Hone-fos, 159; Keel-fos, 169; Sevle-fos, 169; Voring-fos, 169; Skyttie-fos, 17O; Rembis-
fos, 170 ; Ostud-fos, 17O; Riukan-fos, 183; Larbro- fos, 182; Hel-fos, 192; Fis- kum-fos, 202; Hunne-fos, 220; Leir-fos, 231; Sarps- fos, 247; Trolhattan, 320; Viborg, 377; Narova, 579
Wattjom, 325
Waxholm, 288, 357
Weberod, 342
Weda, 327
Wellington, Duke of, 454
Wenern Lake, 319
Wenersborg,319, 346
Wermelen Lake, 332
Wernamo, 337
West Fiord, 212
Westerns, 330 ; Cathedral, 330 ; Castle, 331 ; Library, 331
Westerwik, 288, 239
Westgaard, 250
Wettern Lake, 318
Wexio, 338, 339
Wiborg, 40
Wida, 339
Wifsta, 327
Wik,345
Wilna, 595; University of 595
Wilson, General, 507
Mrs., 398, 408, 529
ZORITZ.
Wines of the Don, 403 . — Crimean, 403
Winterasa Sanna, 331
Wisby, 287; Antiquities, 287; Churches, 288
Wiske River, .344
Witte, Count de, 614
Wolmar, 581
Wolves, attack by, 162
Woronzoff, Count, Ambas- sador, 557
Michael,
610,612, 613,614,615
Chateau of, 614
— Count Simon,
619 Wreta, 335 Wretstorp, 333 Wrigsta, 338 Wrongs Elv, 332 Wurtemburg, King of, 583 Wylie, Sir James, 404
Y.
Yagers, 405 Yalta, 613, 614, 619 Yamen, Rocks at, 615 Yarimovo, 596 Yaroslofl., 420
II., 421
Grand Duke of, 589
— Town of, 426, 597
Yatshera, 585 Yausa, River, 559 Yeames, Mr., 612 Yeni Kale, 613, 614 Yfre, 324 Yngsjo, 341 Ystad, 285, 338
■ to Malmo, 341
to Helsingborg, 342
Yursuf, 619 Yury I., 420 II., 421
Yuryvitch, Roman, 424 Yushka, the, 397
Zamek, 592
Zamosk, 548
Zamoyski, Count, 592
Zaraisk, 602
Zealand, Island of, 82
Zenghis Khan, 420
Zetland Islands (see Shet- land)
Zimagoria, Description of, 532; Fish, 533; Biscuits, 533; Brass Bells, 534
Zoritz, General, 587
G. Woodfall and Son, Printers, Angel Court, Skinner Street, London.
F F
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BRIGHAM YOUNG UNIVERSITY
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3 1197 22415 5462
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