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Sacbact ([College Lititars.
UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT
4.S}xx,..,jrfi-
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y^-^' ^M^tea^ f^-.^. -I^jJa^, rJj^ . Jkl£. No. 89.
THE
WEST COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA,
IirCLUDIHG
MAGEllM STKAIT, TIERRA DEL FUEGO,
THE OTITLYIISTG ISLANDS.
SECOND EDITION.
WASHINGTON:
GOVBKKMBNT PRINTING OFFICE.
1896.
COLLt.:
yiv^ ix»vioCw<i. ^^
f-c*"—*
CONTENTS.
Paga
Preface v
Note VI
Index 441
Index chart viii
List of HydrograpUic Office ageots 493
List of HydrograpMc Office publications 487
CHAPTER I. Tierra del Fnego ; cai>e Espiritn Santo to cape Pillar^ including Staten iBland. 1
CHAPTER II. Magellan strait .;••• 40
CHAPTER III. Patagonian channels and the outer coast — Magellan strait to cape Tres Montes. 116
CHAPTER IV.
Coast of Chile — Cape Tres Moutes to Chacao narrows — Chonos archipelago
and Chiloe island 180
CHAPTEi: V. Coast of Chile — Chiloe island to Coquiinbobay 232
CHAPTER VI.
Coast of Chile — Coqnimbo bay to Morro de Sama. The islands of Juan
Fernandez, Mas Afuera, St. Ambrose, and St. Felix 289
CHAPTER VII. Coast of Peru — Morro de Sama to gulf of Guayaquil 330
CHAPTER VIII.
Coast of Ecuador — Gulf of Guayaquil to port Tumaco. The Galapagos, Mal-
pelo, and Cocos Islands 384
CHAPTER IX.
Coast of Colombia — Port Tumaco to Mariato point, including the Pearl
islands 411
III
^
PREFACE.
This publication is a revision of the first edition, from the latest information, by Mr. E. 0. Bay, U. S. Navy, in the Division of Sailing Directions, Lieut. D. H. Mahan, U. S. Navy, in charge.
The meteorological remarks in the opening chapter were prepared by Mr. James Page, in the Division of Marine Meteorology, Lieut. Chauncey Thomas, U. S. Navy, in charge.
The charts and plates were prepared in the Division of Chart Construction, Mr. George W. Littlehales, 0. E., in charge.
As much of the coast described is imperfectly surveyed, mariners are requested to transmit to the TJ. S. Hydrographic Office, either directly or through one of its branch offices, such errors and omissions as they may discover. With a view to making the next edition of this publica- tion more useful and complete, new information is also requested.
0. D. SiasBEE, Commander^ U. S. Navy^ Hydrographer.
TJ. S. Hydroobaphic Office,
Washington J D. 0., October 30 ^ 1896.
NOTE.
The bearings, courses, and trend of the land are true, bnt, for con- venience, the corresponding magnetic bearings to the nearest degree follow in parentheses (variation in 1S96). The directions of the winds are given for the points from which they blow; the directions of the currents for the points toward which they set. Distances are expressed in nautical miles; soundings, unless otherwise stated, are reduced to mean low water.
VI
'J
ALLUC
iiiiiilii m
2 COAST OP TIEBRA DEL PUEGO.
occur three or four days marked by their appearance. A day without rain is rare at any season.
It may be said that throughout the summer, especially January, the normal condition of the weather of this region is stormy. Galms are rarer than at any other period of the year, and the mariner may rely upon encountering at least one heavy squall every four or five days.
As the sun declines toward the northern horizon the atmospheric disturbances become less intense and less frequent. The month of March is generally stormy, but thereafter a period of relative calm succeeds; the west winds become less violent, and winds from E. to NW. are sometimes experienced; by the middle of May warm, dry breezes from east and north are frequent, with now and then a day of bright sunshine. This continues until the month of July, when the weather becomes more and more precarious. In September and Octo- ber the west winds regain the mastery, and heavy squalls, which are comparatively rare during the winter months, become more frequent and violent until January, which is generally the most tempestuous month of the year.
The meteorological conditions governing the sequence of weather in the neighborhood of cape Horn, and the value of the barometer, as serving to indicate approaching changes, have been made the subject of much discussion. Eecent investigations have shown that these conditions are simpler than was supposed, and that the indica- tions of the barometer, when properly construed, are reliable. The areas of low pressure, some of them of remarkable depth, make their appearance to the south and west of Tierra del Fuego. Their direc- tion of motion is toward the SE. until the meridian of cape Horn is reached, afber which there is a tendency to merge to the NE., an effect probably due to the high range of the Andes. The trough of lowest pressure is probably not far distant from the parallel of 60^. Accord- ing to the law of storms, around the center of these depressions the winds circulate in the same direction as the hands of a clock, northerly, northeasterly, and easterly winds prevailing in their eastern half, south- westerly and westerly winds in the western. In the neighborhood of cape Horn, however, the winds of the front or eastern half of the atmospheric depressions (winds from the K., !N^E., E., etc.) are in many cases dissipated, or at least diverted from their normal direction, as long as the cyclonic whirl is found to the westward of the high moun- tain ranges of Tierra del Fuego and southern Patagonia, and their place taken by fine weather, with calms and light, baffling airs from all points of the compass. These are the almost invariable accompani- ment of a falling barometer in the neighborhood of cape Horn, although well-developed easterly gales of force 9 sometimes occur, especially during the winter months. The western or rear half of these depres- sions exhibits all of the characteristics of the ordinary cyclonic storm. Either shortly before or shortly after the barometer has reached its
WINDS — BAROMETER — THERMOMETER. 3
lowest pointjthe observer, if his vessel be to the north of the storm track, will experience a shift of the wind to the KW., followed later by shifts to the W. and SW. If he be to the south of the track, he will probably feel the wind come out directly from the S W. with great force.
Described in general terms, the weather conditions accompanying the greater barometric oscillations are as follows :
The sky fairly free of clouds, with light, variable breezes from the eastern quadrant 5 the barometer, probably slightly above the average (29.40 inches), but showing a tendency to fall, quickens its descent until a rate of 0.02 inch per hour is attained. The weather continues fine, sometimes for as much as several hours after the fall of the barometer has become plainly apparent, and until the column stands from one to two tenths of an inch below the mean. About this time the sky becomes covered from the KW. with a thick bank of greyish cirrus, which, at once rising from the horizon and descending from the upper atmos- phere, covers the sky with a misty veil, through which the sun appears pale and dull. The mercury falls rapidly, sometimes attaining a rate of 0.05 inch per hour; at the same time light but increasing breezes from the N. or NW. spring up, or else there is a calm lasting sev- eral hours. The fall of the barometer continues until the mercury reaches a point below 29 inches, when it ceases, and the storm bursts in all its violence. Almost simultaneously the rising of the barometer begins, and continues until the end of the squall, which almost always finishes from the SW. The fluctuations of' the barometer during the rise are sometimes extremely rapid, and are attended by squalls of great violence. Captain Leyland, of the British bark Talca, states that on July 8, 1896, between 4 and 5 p. m., his barometer rose and fell and rose again four-tenths of an inch, during which time and afterwards the S W, wind blew continuously with force 12.
Areas of high pressure, around which the winds circulate in a left- handed or anticlockwise direction, make their appearance during the winter. Sometimes these highs are merely southeastern extensions of the main area of high pressure which covers the South Pacific from the Tropics to 40^ S.; at others they are local, forming rapidly and rapidly disappearing. Within such areas barometric pressures of 30.7 inches have been recorded. Simultaneous observations show that their center may lie as far south as 60^. They ordinarily last from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, and are attended by light winds with clear cloudy weather.
The persistent westerly and southwesterly winds which prevail along the usual track of vessels rounding the Horn are thus seen to be due either to the passage of areas of low barometric pressure south of that track or to the approach of areas of high pressure from the north- ward* and by applying the law, that when the observer stands with his back to the wind the center of the area of low barometer (in the Southern Hemisphere) will be on his right hand, we have the following
4 COA&T OF TIEBRA DEL FUEGO.
connection between the rise or £all of the barometer and the direetion of the wind:
With East, IN^E.^ and North winds the barometer firils.
With NW. winds it ceases to fall and begins to rise.
With West, 8W., and South winds, it rises.
With SE. winds, it ceases to rise and begins to fall.
The barometer off cape Horn is lowest with NW. winds and highest with SE. If it falls to 29 or 28.80 inches, a SW. gale may be expected, but it will not begin until the mercury has ceased to fall.
The changes of the thermometer are in general in the opi>osite direc- tion to those of the barometer:
With East, NE., and North winds the thermometer rises.
With West, SW., and South winds, it falls.
WiUi a SE. wind it ceases to Ml and begins to rise.
These rules are in no sense absolute, but represent average condi- tions; thus, the rise of tlie barometer during a SW. gale, as mentioned above, is liable to be interrupted by fluctuations of one or two tenths of an inch. During the recovery from one of these fluctuations the wind generally backs. It may be said that the distinguishing feature of the barometer in this region is that it iB never stationary, but con- tinually oscillating up and down witii a rapidity unknown in any other portion of the sea.
It should be remembered that bad weather never comes on sud- denly from the eastward, neither does a southwesterly or southerly gale shift suddenly to the northward. Southerly and southwesterly winds rise suddenly and violently, and must be well considered in choosing anchorages and in preparing for shifts of the wind at sea. The most usual weather in these latitudes is a fresh wind between NW. and SW., with a cloiidy, overcast sky. A beautiful sunrise and forenoon are generally succeeded about midday by a gray and somber sky, the high scirrus coming down from the NW. Olear nights, especially during the evening watch, are more frequent than clear days.
The average time consumed in passing around cape Horn from 50^ south latitude in the Atlantic to 50^ south latitude in the Pacific is twenty days, individual voyages ranging from seven to forty days, the distance sailed being about 1,300 miles. This wide range admits of two conclusions: first, that the weather in the neighborhood of the cape is extremely variable; second, that it is possible by adapting the courses sailed to the weather encountered, to materially shorten the time of the voyage. Maury, in his Sailing Directions, recommends keeping close under the Isuid, in the face of the SW. gales and the strong east- erly current which sweeps around the cape. The advisability of this was doubted at the time, Captain Bailey, of the U. S. S. 8t Mary^ remarking in a letter to Maury: "So fully convinced am I of the truth of my experience, that I would advise ships, after passing the straits of
Vnm>B — FOGS— CSAPE HORN CDBSENT. 5
Lie Maire, hftving a northerly wind and a falling barometer, to stand on a wind to the southward, confident of the wind's direction, so long as the mercury tends to fall. If it reaches a minimom somewhat below 29 inches, and a calm ensnes, equally to be eetrtaia of a ^southwester, and to be in a position if possible to profit by it/' Later investigations have justified this recommendation, and have furthermore shown the probability of encountering favorable easterly winds in the region of 60^ B, Westerly winds alone are unfavorable for a westward- bound ship; with other winds she is enabled to make fair progress. The navigator should therefore see that, when his barometer indicates the approach of an area of low pressure, he avoid the northern half of it, sailing around the depression by the south ; and in general, whenever headed off by W. or ]^W. winds, to seek higher latitudes rather than lower. As a whole the weather may be said to be rather in a constant state of change than constantly stormy, the westerly gales themselves seldom blowing steadily from one point, but rather constantly hauling to the northward or southward. To make progress through such weather requires watchfulness on the part of the navigator, to be on hand to take advantage of every favoring change.
Fogs are rare on the coast of Tierra del Fuego and in the vicinity of cape Horn, but thick, rainy weather prevails, with strong winds. The sky, even in moderate weather, is generally overcast and cloudy, a clear day being a rare occurrence. The fogs are not nniform, being dense only in patches. Th^ are more frequent west of the cape than east of it.
Idghtning and thunder raredy occur except in very bad weather^ when violent squalls come from the S. and SW., giving warning of their approach by masses of clouds. These storms are accompanied by snow and hail of large size.
Cape Horn current. — ^There is a continual current setting toward and along the SW. coast of Tierra del Fuego as far as Diego Eamirez islands. Thence the current takes a more easterly direction, setting around cape Horn toward Staten island. At a distance of 10 or 12 miles south of cape Horn its direction is to the E^N'E., with a velocity of about ane knot per hour. iN^ear the land, particularly projecting capes and detached islands, the current is strongest, reaching its great- est strength with westerly winds and becoming almost insensible with easterly winds. It sets rather /row the land.
In the waters between cape Horn and South Shetland the easterly motion of the sea is produced by th« prevalence of the westerly winds ; and although the direction of this current is sometimes much to the north as well as to the south of «ast, the deviation in all probability arises from the prevalence or greater strength of the FW. or SW. winds^ as it has been generally remarked that the deviation of the cur- rent from the east toward the north or south was in accordance with the prevalence of one of these winds over the other.
6 COAST OF TIERBA DEL PUEGO.
A str6ng cnrrent sets at times along the outer coast of the Hennite islands and through St. Francis bay, which divides Horn island from the rest of the group, varying from J to 2 knots, according to the wind and tide; and in the bay changes its direction with the change of tide.
In the channel between False Cape Horn and the Hermite islands a icurrent is found setting into iN'assau bay, and rather toward the Her- mite islands, at the rate of 2 knots, with the flood tide, and about i knot with the ebb. As this current sets rather toward West cape, a good berth must be given to it in passing.
The currents between cape Horn and cape Pillar are by no means regular; sometimes with a strong wind and flowing tide they run 2 knots or more, at others they are hardly worth notice. During the survey the current was never found to set to the westward at any time of tide or with any wind.
Icebergs. — Ice in the form of bergs and floes is to be found through- out the year in the southern part of the South Atlantic ocean, although it is impossible to give a general description which will hold good for any one year, as both the quantity of ice, and the region in which ves- sels are liable to encounter it, vary between wide limits. It frequently happens that one or more years may elapse during which the sailing route around cape Horn will be apparently free from ice. Such was the case throughout the period covered by the years 1870-1878, with the exception of a few bergs seen far to the east of the Falkland islands during the winter of 1875. On the other hand, at long and irregular intervals, the number and size of the bergs become so enormous that vessels !N"E. of the Falklands are compelled to forsake the ordinary homeward-bound path for a more westerly route. This was the case during the year 1832, again in 1854, and notably so during the years 1892-93.
As given by the most reliable authorities, the mean ice limit for this region- runs northeastward from cape Horn through latitude 50° S., longitude 52° W., as far as latitude 42o S., longitude 35^ W., the occurrence of ice north of the fortieth parallel being rare. The accom- panying chart shows this average limit, as well as the limits according to the reports received by the U. S. Hydrographic Office, of the numer- ous ice fields encountered by mariners in those waters during the exceptionally severe years of 1892 and 1893. All of these reports agree in describing the icebergs seen during these years as colossal in height and extent, and herded so closely together that any attempt to force a passage through the main body of the drift was attended by grave danger, many vessels being more or less damaged by collision and at least two lost.
During the month of April, 1892, the bark Colby, in sailing from 540 S., 430 W., to 440 S., 330 W., encountered almost continuous ice. Throughout June, July, and August following, ice in an almost com-
'^t mass covered the area included by the parallels 40° and 45° S. and
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ICE LIMITS. 7
the meridiana 30^ and 40° W.; beyond 46° W. the ocean was prac- tically free from ice, a single vessel, the ship Brumcraig^ reporting ice west of this meridian December 29, 1892. The statement of the captain of the Drumcraig is as follows:
^'December 29, in latitude 49o 34' S., longitude 45o 63' W., a large ice island appeared ahead, about 12 miles distant. Hauled ship to the wind and stood south, being unable to weather the north end of it. At noon found more ice and several large detached bergs ahead. Wore ship, and stood Wl^W., the wind having shifted to SW. The large island was fully 300 feet high and 25 or 30 miles long, extending as far as we could see. At 6 p. m. sighted two more large bergs bearing N^E. The deck thermometer stood at 41° throughout. At daylight the next day kept away to the north, and at 10 a. m. got close in among more ice, in all nine large bergs, the northernmost berg being like an island, the north end of which we were unable to see. At 4 p. m. hauled out to the westward for the night, and the next day, in latitude 47^ 25' S., longitude 46^ 15' W., kept to the westward and saw no more ice.''
At the close of February, 1893, the area of extensive ice fields had taken a roughly elliptical shape, extending from 45^ S., 33° W., to 52^ S., 520 W., and about 300 miles in width from north to south. The reports show that the individual bergs had spread to the westward far beyond the ordinary limits. Thus the Afon Law^ May 6, 1895, saw three bergs in latitude 46^ 50' S., longitude 59^ W., and the ship Deck- montj on the same date, one large berg in latitude 45^ 50' S., longitude 580W.
In December, 1893, reports of ice again became frequent over a belt 200 miles in width and extending from 51^ S., 47° W., to 42o S., 41o W., thus considerably to the north and east of the position of the main body during February, March, and April. These reports generally record the appearance of two or more bergs. The final chapter in the history of this extraordinary field of ice is given in the report of the master of the brig Bochra : " On April 30, 1894, latitude 26^ 30' S., longitude 25^ 40' W., observed a piece of ice 12 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet high. It was very white and seemed to be perforated. We passed quite near it. The sea was smooth and several people saw it.''
In each case of their occurrence it has been noted that these vast fields of ice both appear and disappear with great suddenness. The absence of reports in the neighborhood south of cape Horn shows that if these bergs did come from a point to the westward, they must have followed a path south of the ordinary course taken by vessels. It is, however, probable that their origin could be traced to some point to the southward, probably Graham Land.
Ice in the immediate vicinity of cape Horn itself is rare, although isolated bergs are sometimes seen in the region south of the fifty-fifth parallel and west of the seventieth meridian. The year 1868 was an exception to this. In that year, east and west of cape Horn from longitude 60^ W. to 87° W. vessels encountered many ice islands and
^ COAST OF TXEBBA DEL TUEGO.
bergs^ som(B of them of great keiglit. It is noted tbat dnrii]^ tiiat year (1868) no ioe was seen 'S^E, o£ tbe FaUdands.
The chart of ice limits also gi^es I6r the month of March, April, and May the isotherms or lines of equal temperature of the mxr§ae% water. These, however, are of doubtftd vahie to the navigator in announcing the proximity of ice, as practical experience has shown that the temperature of the surface is little affected thereby. The report of Captain McMillan, of the ship Dudhopcj is especially interesting in this connection :
^^Garefdl thermometric observations of air and water were regularly taken, but our approach to ice, always from windward, was not onee indicated by any appreciable change of temperaiture, in either air or water. On passing to leeward of the bergs, a fall of a few degrees was generally observed in the air. On one occasion we passed within 200 yards of a berg, and found the temperature to be the same there as at several miles distant* This would go to show that in thick weather, or in any other, even temperature and thermometer at normal height should not be accepted as immunity from ice. Care and a most vigilant lookout are the only reliable safeguards. To depend on the thermometer would mean disaster, as I am convinced that a ship would be too close to the ice to extricate herself by the time the thermometer would indicate its presence.''
Soundings.-^Soundings extend to 30 miles from the coast. The depth of water varies from 60 to 200 fathoms, with a bottom of fine white or speckled sand, between 10 and 20 miles from the land. . From 5 to 10 miles distant the average depth is 50 fathoms, though varying from 30 to 100 fathoms, and in some places no bottom at 200 fathoms. Inside of 5 miles from the coast the soundings are very irregular, gen- erally less than 40 fathoms, but in some places deepening suddenly to 100 fathoms or more, while in others a solitary rock rises nearly to the surface of the water. In the large sounds inside the seaward islands the water is much deeper than on the outside.
An outer bank of soundings extends along the whole coast and which appears to have been formed by the continued action of the sea upon the shore, wearing it away and forming banks with its sand. There is much less risk in approaching this coast than is generally supposed. East of cape Horn the water is not so deep as to the westward, neither is the land so high.
Anchorages. — Opposite to the eastern valleys, where the land is covered with wood, and water is seen falling down the ravines, good anchorage is generally found. These valleys are exposed to heavy squalls, which come from the heights. The best of aU anchorages on this coast is where good holding ground is found on the western side of high land, and protected from the seas by low islands or other barrier. It never blows so hard against high land as /row it.
Where the land is composed of sandstone or slate, anchorages abound; but where it is of granite it is difficult to find soundings. The
ANCHOlUaBS — NATITES— MISSION STATIONS. 9
^
diffeiresioe between tiie two ean be told by the latter being very barreBt and ragged and of a gray or white aqafiearanee, while the former are dark colored and have smoother outlines and are generally cohered with vegetation.
Between the islands, where there is no snrf or swell worthy of notice, the water is deep and the bottom irregular. A small vessel may run among the islands in many places and find good anchorages, but she runs into a labyrinth from which escape may be difficult, and, in thick weather, dangerous.
Off the KE. coast the soundings are regular, and good anchori^ may be found near the land on any part of the coast during westerly winds.
ZfatiTe8.-^The natives of Tierra del Fuego are known as Onas. They appear to be an intermediate race between the large*sized Patago- nians and the stunted Fuegians. They have no canoes and live largely on the produce of hunting. They have always shown great hostility to Europeans, but the explorations of late years have probably modified their animosity.
In the southern part of Tierra del Fuego the presence of mission^ aries, combined with an Argentine port at Success bay, have made it quite safe for shipwrecked crews to land.
Mission stations. — ^The South American Missionary Society have now (1894) two mission stations in the region about cape Horn. The headquarters station is at Tekenika, near Packsaddle bay, in latitude 650 23' S., longitude 680 ig/ w. (approximate), and the other at Ushu- waia, on Tierra del Fuego, in the Beagle channel; in addition, the Bev, Thomas Bridges is permanently established at Harberton, on the same coast. The mission station on Wollaston was abandoned in 1891 as being an unsuitable locality for a permanent residence. These stations may be used as places of refuge and relief to mariners shipwrecked hereabouts.
Since these mission stations have been established a great change has been effected in the character of the natives generally, and the Yahgan natives from cape San Diego to cape Horn, and thence round to Brecknock peninsula, can be trusted. j^ The natives of 'New Tear sound also are in friendly communication
with the mission station at Tekenika, and all the natives around Nassau bay, and in the Beagle channel, would in all probability assist \ shipwrecked mariners to the mission stations.
Shoald a vessel be abandoned to the westward of cape Horn, the boats should endeavor to reach Tekenika. If circumstances x^revent their passing between Hardy peninsula and Hermite islands and they are driven to leeward, the best course will be east of Navarin island for the Beagle channel. Should it be advisable, boats may proceed to the head of the Bomanche channel, where there is a pass over the moun- it tains to Tekenika.
Passages. — After passing the entrance of the Bio de la Plata,
10 COAST OP TIEBRA DEL FUEGO.
keep within 100 miles of the coast, on accoant of meeting with strong westerly winds and smooth water. An easterly gale never comes on without ample warning.
If intending to call at the Falkland islands, endeavor to get sound- ings off cape Corrientes, or as soon as possible after passing the parallel of 390 S., and keep on the edge of the bank. If a direct course be attempted, there is danger of being driven to leeward of the islands by the frequent southwesterly winds.
If bound to Magellan strait, or around cape Horn, make the land to the southward of cape Blanco, and keep it just on the horizon until cape Virgins is sighted or passed. At present the large majority of vessels round cape St. John, and authorities differ as to the advisability of passing through Le Maire strait, although by so doing it is possible to save the time employed in beating 60 miles, generally dead to wind- ward. The difficulties attending this passage are the tidal currents, the danger of becoming becalmed under the high coasts, and the willi- waws, or sudden squalls, which sweep down the canons on the western side. Careful consideration of a large number of logs tends to show that these dangers have hitherto been exaggerated, and that during clear weather the strait offers a fairly safe route when proper precau- tious are taken. The navigator should plan to be at cape San Diego at the beginning of the ebb tide, which sets toward the south through the strait, and easterly along the north coast of Staten island and Tierra del Fuego. The entrance to the strait is generally approached with a northerly or westerly wind, which, during the flood tide, tends to produce a heavy cross sea. The ebb tide begins at the time of new and full moon, in the neighborhood of 7 o'clock, or about three hours after high water ashore.
It is unwise to approach cape San Diego too closely, and the course should be held if possible through the middle of the strait. Captain Fitzroy, E. !N"., who surveyed this strait, seems to think there is neither risk nor difficulty in passing through it; the chief danger is the failure of the wind. Captain Berry, of the American bark Mohican^ has made, since 1858, 23 voyages to the westward around cape Horn, 22 of them through Le Maire strait. In 1882 he beat his vessel through under reefed topsails. The passage of the strait should, however, not be attempted when there is any liability of encountering a SW. gale upon emerging, as under these circumstances it will generally be necessary to put back and round cape St. John. For this reason the barometer should be carefully watched in approaching.
A recent comparison of 32 passages to the westward around the Horn made by certain vessels following the outside route, and by others simultaneously passing through the strait of Le Maire, showed the latter to have an average advantage of two days seventeen hours from 500 S. in the Atlantic to 50° S. in the Pacific.
In passing to the eastward of Staten island the only danger to be avoided is the heavy tide race off cape St. John.
P PASSAGES. 11
Although the days are short and the weather cold, June and July are perhaps the best months for making a passage to the westward, as the wind is then in the eastern quarter. April, May, and Jun0 are prefer- able, fair passages having been made in these months by keeping nearer the land and sighting Diego Eamirez islands. August and September are bad months; good passages are said to have been made at this season of the year by going as far south as the parallel of 60^. December and January are the best months for making the passage to the eastward, sighting cape Horn and the Falkland islands in ' order to keep clear of ice.
Standing to the westward after passing Staten island, the vessel should be kept on the starboard tack, if the westerly wind holds, until latitude 60^ S. is reached before attempting to run down the longitade; after crossing the meridian of 82° W., stand to the northward.
On the parallel of 60^ S. some authorities believe that the wind from the eastward prevails more than from any other quarter.
Caution. — Off cape St. John, the eastern point of Staten island, a heavy tide rip extends for a distance of 5 or 6 miles or even more to seaward during the flood tide. When the wind is strong and opposed to the tidal stream, the overfalls are overwhelming and very dangerous, even to a large and well-found vessel. Seamen must use every ])recaution to avoid this perilous area.
Cape Horn, northward. — Sailing vessels, after rounding cape Horn and bound to ports on the west coast of South America, should, when westward of the meridian of cape Pillar, or 75^ W., take every oppor- tunity of making westing until the meridian of 82° or 84° W. be reached, thence steer direct, or as nearly so as is consistent with mak- ing use of the steady winds which prevail in the offing, for the intended port, being careful not to get to leeward of it on approaching the land.
If bound to the gulf of Panama keep about 60 miles from the coast north of Guayaquil, and after crossing the equator, steer for Galera island, at the same time taking care, especially in the dry season, to stand in-shore with the first northerly winds. By so doing vessels will most probably have the current in their favor along the coast; whereas by keeping in the center or on the western side of the gulf, a strong ^ southerly set will be experienced.
After making Galera and clearing the San Jos^ bank, the navigation between the Pearl islands and the main is clear and easy, with the advantage of being able to anchor should the wind fail and the tide be against the vessel. As a rule this passage should be taken, but with a strong southerly wind the navigator is tempted to run up the bay, in which case he should still keep on the western shore of the Pearl islands, where anchorage and less current will be found should the wind fail, an event always to be expected in these regions.
Tierra del Fuego, the largest island of the archipelago which clus-
J^ ters round the southern and western shores of Patagonia, is about 150
miles from north to south, and 250 miles at its broadest part from east to
12 TIERRA DEL FUEOO— «KMtTHEA8T COAST.
west. In its southern part Monnt Sarmiento and the Darwin range rise to heights of 6^000 feet above the sea level and are olothed in per- petual snow; the remainder of the island is more of a generally undu- lating character, with large plains and ranges of hills; the interior is unmapped, but has recently been partly explored by gold prospeeftors, who have had moderate success.
Northeast coast — ^From cape Espiritu Santo whitish cliffs extend^ with but few breaks, about 23 miles to Nombre head. The land is sev- eral bundred feet high and quite destitute of wood, and, except being more green in appearance, resembles the coast of Patagonia. Between Nombre liead and a range of higher and more hilly land which ends south of cape San Sebastian the land is so low that it can not be seen from a vessel's deck until within the horizon.
In March, 1889, H. M. S. Ohampion visited this coast. Between San Sebastian and Good Success bays natives were seen at most parts of the coast. Some Europeans engaged in gold mining were seen at Nombre head, about 10 miles northward of San Sebastian bay, where there were several buildings and a flagstaff flying the Argentine flag* Also near cape Medio some Europeans were found searching for gold.
The coast is visited every three months by an Argentine Government vessel.
The Yangan ludians of these parts may be trusted to guide those in distress to the refuge stations.
San SebaBtian bay. — ^A long ridge of shingle extends 9 miles soath- ward from I^ombre head, ending in a sharp point. Arenas, which may be closely approached. The bight inclosed between this point aud cape San Sebastian is the large bay of the same name, affording good anchor- age from all but easterly winds, which seldom blow with any strength. Within the point, which is steep-to, the bottom is uniform, with depths decreasing gradually. There is no hidden danger on the north side of the bay. On the south side, off cape San Sebastian, it is otherwise; a rocky ledge extends under water to the northeastward, and the cape requires a berth of 4 miles in rounding. There is no kelp upon the ledge, which upon the west side shoals suddenly from 12 to 4 fathoms; the ebb tide sets over it about 2 knots an hour. The bay is easy of access, and with good holding ground; there is no wood, but water may be procured from an indifferent watering place.
Cape San Sebastian is a bald, cliffy headland of a dark color. Inshore of it the land rises to nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. At 5 miles southeastward of the cax)e is another small cliff, about one mile seaward of which is a rock above water; between the latter cliff and the cape the land is low. Hence to cape Sunday the shore is rather low, irregular, hilly, and fronted by a shingle beach, but hilly at the back.
Cape Sunday, 17 miles from cape San Sebastian, is a prominent headland, of a reddish color, rising 250 feet above the sea; the coast in its vicinity is free from danger. The Eio Grande, 11 miles south of
CAPE PBNAtt — CAPS SAK DIEGO. * 13
oape Sunday, divides the Pampaa region from the wooded region ia the south. The river is not navigable, and has numerous rocks, some of which dry at low water, neac its mouth.
Cape Penas, at 17 miles SE. of cape Sunday, is about 100 feet high^ with dangerous rocks, on which the sea nearly always breaks, extend- ing 2 miles seaward from it; these rocks should be carefully avoided^ especially at night. The bay formed to the southward of the cape appears to afford anchorage; but the appearance is deceitful, a£» it iii shallow and strewed with rocks. The hills hereabout are high smd psfftially wooded, and the view of the country is pleasing.
Cape Santa Inez, at 12 miles SE. of cape Penas, cape Medio, at 11 miles SE. of Santa Inez, and San Pablo, 8 miles fe>rther east, are high, bold, and fronted by steep clif^, 200 or 300 feet in height. Henoe to cape San Diego the water is not so deep as to prevent a vessel anchoring during westerly or southerly winds.
Tides. — ^It is high water, fall and change, at cape Penas atOh. 42m.; spring rise 12 feet.
Clumipion rock is about one mile from the nearest shore and 1^ miles from cape Medio, which bears S. 58^ E. (S. 77^ B, mag.). There is a depth of about 8 feet on the rock at low water, with 6 fathoms close to seaward.
Orosko table, 4 miles inland, is a remarkable table-topped moun- tain 1,000 feet high. To the eastward of it are three mountains, the Three Brothers, the western one being similar in appearance to Orosko. They form an excellent landfall for vessels bound through the strait of Le Maire or around Staten island.
Policarpb 6ove, situated 43 miles SE. of cape San Pablo, is a deceiving place; it looks like a harbor, but is fit only for a boat. False cove, at 6 miles farther east, will hardly give a boat shelter. Oape San Yincente^ 8 miles east of False cove, is a dark, low, bluff point, backed by wooded hills, 200 or 300 feet in height. Some rocks and foul ground extend i mile from the cape.
Thetis bay is an anchorage which may be taken by a vessel intend^ ing to go through Le Maire strait, but detained by wind or tide. The tidal currents set strongly across the bay in line with the heads. There is much kelp in the bay, but so far as known no dangers have been dis- covered among it» With the wind and tidal currents opposite each other, a great sea rolls into the bay. In leaving it to round cape San Diego a good offing must be obtained in order to clear the heavy tide races off that cape*
R^tige station. — ^The Argentine Government has a refuge station in tills bay, with suf^cient staff and material to assist vessels in dis- tress, or to afford succor to shipwrecked persons.
Cape San Diego is low, ending in a small bluff. The rocky ledge off the eastern point of this cape is more dangerous than has been sup* posed. The tide races are so violent here that soundings can not be taken so frequently and accurately as desirable. In the middle of the
14 GOOD SUCCESS BAY — STATEN ISLAND.
race depths have been found to vary from 60 to 70 fathoms to 9 and 5 fathoms; it will, therefore, be prudent to give the cape a berth of at least 5 miles. A vessel was seen to founder in this race, but whether from striking on a rock or from being swamped was not known. The bark Hermine, in passing through the strait^ struck three or four times, with the NB. extreme of the cape bearing N. 38° W. (N. 57^ W. mag.), distant, by estimation, If miles, or nearly in the position marked 5 fathoms on the chart. The vessel was drawing 16 feet, which will be accepted for the present as the depth of the shoal.
The shoal is steep-to, no soundings at 10 fathoms being obtained directly before and after the vessel struck.
When subsequently in the race, at IJ hours' flood, spring tides, the vessel sustained severe damage from the heavy seas that came on board.
Good Success bay is a small inlet where there is a good anchorage for vessels. The best berth is in 10 fathoms. Do not anchor too far in toward the sandy beach at the head of the bay, for during SB. gales dangerous rollers set right into the bight. North and South heads are heights of about 1,200 feetj with strong winds it is subject to squalls, which, during westerly gales, are very violent. This is an excellent place for vessels of any draft to put into for fresh water or wood. In the win- ter season, when easterly winds are common, anchor nearer the mouth of the bay than during the summer season.
About 6 miles S. 34^ W. (S. 15° W. mag.) from South head of Good Success bay are some rocks appearing like a ship under sail.
Statein island. — This island lies off the southeasterly extremity of Tierra del Fuego, and, like all the islands in this part of the world, is so deeply indented with bays as to form nearly four distinct islands. It is 38 miles long and separated by Le Maire strait from the mainland. The island is mountainous, the peaked summits of which, rising to a height of 3,000 feet, are covered with snow throughout most of the year. It offers a. good landfall for vessels bound to and from the Pacific. The harbors are the continuation of the valleys, and are surrounded by high land, with the water in them deepening toward the center. The coast consists everywhere of rocky cliffs, varying in height from 200 to 500 feet.
The best harbors are on the north side of the island. All the anchor- ages, though well protected when once gained, are difficult of access from the force of the tidal currents setting across the mouths of the inlets, the great depth of water, and variableness of the wind, which finds its way down the ravines of the mountains in various directions.
New Year islands afford protection from westerly winds. The anchor- age is under the lee of the north island in 17 fathoms, but on account of the rapidity of the tidal currents, the uncertainty of the eddies, and rocky bottom it is so difficult to keep a vessel clear of her anchors that navigators are advised not to use this berth except in cases of necessity.
With a boisterous and humid climate, and a low, but very uniform,
STATEN ISLAND. 15
temperature, vegetation flourishes with such surprising beauty and lux- uriance that the rugged aspect which the island seems to wear at a dis- tance is changed into perpetual and unbroken verdure. The antarctic beech is the common tree.
Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in port Vancouver, at 4h. 30m., and is very nearly the same in all parts of the island^ springs rise 8 feet.
The tidal streams are rapid, and as they meet with obstacles from the manner in which the headlands jut out at right angles to their direc- tion, the natural consequence is, especially when the wind is strong and contrary, a rough cross-breaking sea which is impassible by boats, and even dangerous to a vessel of considerable size.
There is also reason to believe that the meeting of the current coming round cape Horn with that through the various channels of Tierra del Fuego contributes to the unusual agitation of the sea in the vicinity of Staten island. The flood stream flows to the westward along both shores of Staten .island. On the south shore there is a remarkable undertow, which renders it dangerous for boats to stretch across the mouth of the deep bays, as it is difficult to close again with the land, and for this reason the sealers invariably follow the circuitous route of the shore.
The west-going stream at Staten island, meeting the current east- ward round cape Horn, is quite sufficient to account for the agitation exhibited by the sea in the neighborhood of Staten island, even in moderate weather, without taking into account the prevalence of the violent westerly gales.
When bound eastward of Staten island, the state of the tide must be considered, as the flood stream sets strongly from the southeastward toward the island.
Caution. — ^With the east-going stream there are dangerous overfalls off the east point of Staten island, especially with easterly winds; vessels should keep at least 10 miles east of the island when easterly winds prevail.
St. John harbor, the easternmost in the island, extends 3 miles in a southwesterly direction, with an average width of f mile, and may be easily recognized from a distance by mount Eichardson, at the base of which it is situated. On nearing the entrance a remarkable cliff, like a painter's muUer, appears on the eastern shore, which is high and steep, the ridge over it being 850 feet above the sea. Allowance must be made in steering toward the harbor for the set of the stream, which at all times runs rapidly across the mouth; it is, however, less sensible when within the line joining cape Furneaux and cape St. John, inside which, in case of necessity, or to await the turn of the tide, an anchor may be dropped in 20 to 30 fathoms. The mouth of the harbor is about J mile, having 25 fathoms in the center. The west point must be given a good berth, as there is a rock standing oft' it at some
16 PORT COOK— POST BA^L HALL.
distanoe. The shores with t^ts exo^tion are bold, and immediately within the west point is a sm^l bay where anchorage may be obtained in lO'&thoms.
The most sheltered place is at the head of the bay, where a berth may be taken ap in 20 fathoms, sandy bottom , and moor with an open hawse to the SW., from which direction the gnsts of wind are violent. There is a beach of sand at the head of the bay where a vessel might be hove down for repairs.
The shores of the bay are lined with kelp, its edge bdng almost inva- riably in 8 fathoms and generally near the shore, which is an excellent indication of tiie unsafe parts.
Snpplies. — ^Wood and water are plentiful and easily procured; cel- ery imd wild fowl may be obtained, and in the propw season (October) a good supply of penguins' eggs may be had.
Refiige station. -^A station has been established by the Argentine Gtovemment in this harbor, provided with a lifeboat for the assistance of shipwrecked mariners.
Light. — On Laserre point, the western entrance point of St. John harbor, is a lighthouse from which, at 200 feet above the sea level, is shown a fixed white light visible 14 miles, between the bearings S. 3¥^ E. (S. 630 E. mag.) and S. 59o W. (S. 40° W. mag.) over an arc of 93o.
Port Cook is 8^ miles west of St. John harbor. It extends in a southerly direction 2J miles, with an average width of nearly i mile, and from the good anchorage at its entrance, the greater steadiness of the prevailing winds, and the facility of communication with the south side of the island by means of the low isthmus separating it from port Vancouver, is the most eligible harbor in Staten island for a vessel in want of shelter. The mouth, however, is not more than 400 yards across, with a depth of 6 fathoms, abreast a small island close to Wales point, the eastern entrance point of the port, thence within the depths increase to 16 and 20 fathoms; the best anchorage is in 12 to 15 fathoms at the head of the harbor. Oare is necessary when approaching to avoid a rock awash lying IJ miles N. 18^ B. (north) from Wales point.
Port Basil Hall, 5J miles west of port Cook, can not be recom- mended for a large vessel, but it is considered' a good port for small craft. The head of Port Basil Hall is separated by a narrow neck of elevated land from the head of Few Tear harbor, though the mouth is 2^ miles west of the entrance to I^ew Year harbor. The former is a convenient anchorage, and well sheltered from all winds, though the depth of water and contraction of its mouth by two detached rocks rendw it difficult of entrance without a commanding breeze and favor- able tide. There are three rocky patches nearly in the middle of the entrance, but all the danger is pointed out by the kelp and by the tops of the rocks which show at half tide; they must be passed on their eastern side, where it is sufficiently wide to admit of working in mod- erate weather.
PORT PARRY. 17
The best anchorage is in 7 to 10 fathoms, between a small green island on the western shore and a fine sandy beach north of it; this island may be passed on either side, taking care to avoid a rocky ledge that extends from its SB. extremity. Although the williwaws common to all the harbors of Staten island also exist here, yet the comparative lowness of the southwestern shore renders them less violent than in many of the others; and the Kew Year islands, though at a distance, afford some protection to the harbor from the sea.
There is anchorage also on the eastern side of the bay, just within the entrance, but it can not be compared with the other, being exposed to the swell that rolls in from seaward, and open to the influence of the prevailing westerly winds.
The best directions for entering this harbor, after passing the rocks, are to steer for a remarkable peaked hill, the eastern one of two hills near the head of the bay, until another peak on the western shore ( which stands by itself) comes into view, after which the course may be shaped so as to pass the island on its northern side, where the best anchorage is found.
Supplies. — Wood and water are abundant; fish of a large size are found among the kelp.
Fort Parry is the first opening to the westward after passing the Isew Year islands. Mount Buckland, on the eastern side, has a quoin- shaped appearance, which renders it a prominent object. There are several small rocky islands off both points of entrance, but they are bold and steep and there is no danger in approaching them.
The inner harbor has an entrance but 150 feet in breadth, with an average depth of 8 fathoms water. After clearing this narrow gorge bring the eastern point of the outer entrance in line with the eastern point of the gorge, in order to clear two rocky patches that lie on either side within the gorge.
Directions. — If intending to anchor in the outer harbor the western shore must be kept aboard, but if standing in for the inner one hug the eastern shore until abreast of the white ravine. Do not attempt sail- ing through the gorge unless favored with a leading wind ; with baffling winds the better way would be to furl all sail and tow or warp through. There is good anchorage in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, southward of a small grassy island on the eastern shore of the inner harbor, after which the water deepens to the head of the bay. Here a vessel may moor with an open hawse to the SSW. opposite a sandy beach.
There is a rocky patch with 4 fathoms on it nearly in the center of the outer port. The depth of water in the western arm is an objection to it as a place of long continuance for a vessel, but the bottom is good, and both wood and water may be procured, though the swell that rolls in on the rocks would be very destructive to the boats on landing; there ia, however, a convenient place for the employment of a hose
1943— No. 89 2
18 POET HOPPNEB.
when watering. The hawse should be open to the westward, in the event of mooring.
This is a favorite resort for the sealing vessels when in want of repairs or as a place of shelter while their boats are absent.
Supplies. — Wood and water may be got on board with facUity opposite the anchorage at the head of the inner harbor, and good clams are found in the sand at low water.
Fort Hoppner is the last harbor to the westward. Like the preced- ing, it is divided into two harbors ; in the mouth of the outer one there is a high rocky island which is a protection against the NW. winds. Qn the lee side of this island anchorage may be had for the space of i mile in from 20 to 8 fathoms. To the SE. of the island, however, there is a continuation of rocky patches, two pinnacled rocks of which show above water and are surrounded by kelp.
I^ear the head of the outer harbor there is also anchorage close to the shore, which on the western side is high and precipitous. The gorge is not more than 25 to 30 yards wide, with depths of 2 to 4 fathoms in it, yet the sealers sometimes haul their small schooners through, into the inner basin, where they are moored by hawsers to the rocks, secure from all winds and in depths of 20 to G fathoms. The tidal stream rushes through the narrow opening with great velocity; it would be prudent, therefore, not to commence warping in until the last quarter flood.
A stream flows into the head of the inner basin from the mountains by which the whole harbor is surrounded. In the outer harbor there are no soundings in the middle at 40 fathoms, and it is by no means so convenient or secure as either of those previously mentioned. Wood and water are tolerably plentiful.
Flinders, Crossley, and Franklin bays. — The west coast of Staten island forms the eastern side of Le Maire strait; it is high, rugged, and deeply indented by Flinders, Crossley, and Franklin bays. Flinders bay, between cape St. Anthony, the NW. extreme of Staten island, and cape Beaulieu, at 5 miles southward of it, is about 3 miles deep. Anchor- age may be found in the small coves on the eastern side of this bay, and also in Crossley bay, which lies about midway between cape Beau- lieu and Middle cape at 2J miles SW. of it; these bays are, however, open to the prevailing winds, unprotected from the sea, and can by no means be recommended. There is a good landing place in a small cove about midway between Middle cape and cape South at 3 miles south of it.
Caution. — Heavy tide rips are found off capes St. Anthony, Middle, South, and St. Bartholomew, which form the high projecting horns of the above-named bays; they extend 5 or 6 miles to seaward, and the north-going stream has a velocity of from 5 to 7 knots. A reef is said to exist in the rip just north of cape South, distant 3 miles from the coast.
^ LE MAIRE STRAIT. 19
Black Mary harbor. — ^From cape St. Bartholomew, the SW. ex- treme of Staten island, the southern shore trends in an EKE. direction about 15 miles to York bay, in the KW. corner of which lies Black Mary harbor, where there is stated to be depths of 5 to 13 fathoms, but little is known about it.
Port Vancouver. — From cape Webster, the eastern entrance point of York bay, the shore trends in a northeasterly direction 7 miles to Port Vancouver, which is the only well-sheltered harbor on the south ^ side of Staten island. In the western arm of this bay is a secure
[ anchorage in 11 to 16 fathoms, sandy bottom, close to a small fresh-
! water stream and near a convenient wooding place. All dangers (a
rocky islet on the east side of the entrance and a small reef off the ^ south point) may be avoided by not hauling in for the anchorage until
j a reinarkable white ravine on the south shore becomes visible. A ves-
sel must moor with open hawse to the westward. The port may be easily recognized from seaward by the Dampier islands, on the east side of cape Webster.
Back harbor, 7 miles east of port Vancouver, has a good holding ground and affords a secure shelter from NW. winds, but as it is open to the heavy rolling seas due to the SW. winds, the scarcity of wood, and difficulty of getting water (in consequence of the surf) this harbor is not recommended.
Le Maire strait— The soundings in this strait are reported to be regular near the southern entrance, 70 to 30 fathoms sand; toward the north the depths decrease, and two miles from cape San Diego the bottom is very irregular, as previously mentioned. The eastern side of the strait is bounded by the irregular bays and rugged capes of Staten island. As the strait is wide and free from obstacles, with the exception of the rocky patches extending from cape San Diego and the irregular soundings there, which produce the race already described vessels may pass through with caution. The tidal currents are regu- lar and will assist a vessel materially in her passage if taken at the right time.
It is recommended that vessels from the northward should not attempt the passage of the strait until one hour after high water. Mr. Gray, master of the British bark Shun Lee^ states that it is his practice on arriving near the strait to wait 5 or 6 miles to the northward until a little after high water. Also, that in March, 1881, he entered the strait at that time of tide, and although it was blowing a gale from the SW., the ship drove through rapidly.
After rounding cape San Diego, giving it a berth of at least 5 miles, keep over toward the Tierra del Fuego shore, for in case the wind or tide should change or fail, Good Success, Valentyn, and Aguirre bays are near at hand, where anchorages may be had. The two latter, being much exposed to the south, are not fit for more than temporary berths during northerly or westerly winds.
20 NEW AND LENNOX ISLANDS.
Avoid closing iu on the Staton island side of the strait on account of the heavy tide races and the almost absolute impossibility of finding anchorages there; also^ the reef^ said to exist, 3 miles off the eoast in the rip just north of cape South.
Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Good Success bay at 4h« Sm*; springs rise 6 to 8 feet. It is slack water in Le Maire strait at or near the time of high and low water in Good Success bay. In Le Maire strait the flood stream makes to the northward about one hour after low water, and the ebb to the south- ward about the same time after high water, and the strength of the stream is from 2 to 4 knots near cape San Diego and from 1 to 3 knots in mid-channel, more or less, according to the wind. The streams in the strait are regular, and assist a vessel materially in her passage if taken at the right time.
South and "^est coasts. — The coast from Good Success bay trends in a southerly direction 8 miles to cape Good Success, thence in a westerly direction 34 miles to cape San Pio. Gape Good Success is high and bluif, with rocks above water close to, while at 2 miles NE. of the cape and close to the shore there is a rocky islet which appears as a ship under sail.
On the west side of cape Gk)od Success there is an opening nsuned Valentyn bay, and at 10 miles farther west lies Aguirre bay, the west- ern arm of which is named Spaniard harbor.
Slogget bay, 20 miles west of Aguirre bay, has in the middle an islet, at one mile S. 3^ E. (S. 22^ E. mag.) of which there is a rock marked by kelp. During SE. gales the sea breaks on this rock.
Neither of these bays nor Spaniard harbor is fit for more than tem- porary anchorage during northerly or westerly winds.
Bell mountain, 2,600 feet high, between Yalentyn and Aguirre bays, resembles a large bell, and may be seen in clear weather from a long distance seaward. It is very useful as a sea mark and is often the last remarkable object visible before the weather thickens up for a storm.
New and Lennox islands. — "Sew island, 10 miles south of Sloggett bay, is 8 miles long, north and south, and 5 miles across. Lennox island is 7 miles west of New island. These islands may be approached with confidence, keeping a good lookout for kelp and using the lead. There are no known shoals and the water is not so deep as to the westward of cape Horn,* neither is the land so high. On the east side of Lennox island there is a cove of the same name, where small vessels may find good shelter, but large vessels will have to anchor in Rich- mond road, where there is protection from all but SE, winds. Sound- ings in the vicinity of jS^ew islands are quite regular and the shore steep-to. Gt)od temporary anchorage will be found under the lee of this isiland during westerly winds.
Goree road, between Lennox island and Navarin island, 3 miles west of it, is an excellent anchorage place for all vessels. There is no
^ BEAGLE CHANNEL. 21
difficulty in either entering or leaving it, and good water and wood may be obtained with as little trouble as in any harbor on the coast. As far as known, the kelp in this harbor, as well as that found off Guanaco point, does not grow upon rock, but upon loose, detached stones.
Islet— In Goree road, one mile S. 68° W. (S. 49^ W. mag.) of Middle point, Lennox island, is a small, rocky islet.
Puerto Toro is a Ohilean settlement on the east coast of Navarin k. island, just north of cape Bees, in latitude 55^ 5' S., longitude 67^ 6' W.
The entrance is about J mile wide and the t)ort is protected from winds.
Picton island lies in the mouth of Beagle channel and north of Lennox island. A very thick patch of kelp extends for 3 miles off cape Maria, the SE. point of this island. Dei)ths of from 7 to 12 fathoms have been obtained about 2 miles off shore in this kelp. Garden island, a small island, is on the north shore of Picton, and just SE. of it is Ban- ner cove, snug and well sheltered, where good anchorage will be found in about 13 fathoms.
Beagle channel is a narrow passage running west between ranges of snow-capped mountains. It averages IJ miles in width, and in general has deep water, but there are many small islands, with rocks off them, scattered through'out the entire length. Although easy of access it is quite useless for a vessel to attempt its passage, but boats may profit by its straight course and smooth water. The first open- ing, Murray narrows, leads to the southward into Ponsonby sound. Twenty-seven miles beyond this opening the channel divides, the southern arm falling into Cook bay, and the other into Darwin sound and thence through Whaleboat sound and Desolate bay to the Pacific.
The tidal currents average about one knot an hour throughout the whole length of the channel, the flood to the eastward and ebb to the westward.
Haberton harbor, 11 miles west of Picton island on the north shore of Beagle channel, runs KW. about J mile, and has anchorage in 8 fathoms, mud, near the middle of the harbor, 300 yards within the entrance.
Mr. Bridges, late of the South American Mission Society, has been granted land in this harbor and has established a settlement.
Qable island, 3 miles west of Haberton harbor, has a shoal with 15 feet, bottom black mud, extending 700 yards from its SW. side.
Anchorages. — ^The eastern part of Beagle channel, as far as Gable island, has moderate depths, with good holding ground, and vessels may anchor in case of need. Chasseurs bay, between Euclume and Marteau islands, has anchorage in about 13 fathoms, mud, midway between the islands. The eastern end of Marteau island is a white cliff. This anchorage appears to be a good one, and has not the incon- venience of the strong current which is met with at Packewaia bay, south of Gable island.
Ushuwaia (Ooshooia) Mission station, on the north shore of
22 LAPATAU BAT — ^NASSAU BAT.
Beagle channel^ in Ushuwaia bay, 34 miles west of Haberton barbor, and KNE. from Morray narrows or northern entrance to Ponsonby sound, may be used as a place of refdge and relief to mariners ship- wrecked in the vicinity of cape Horn,
There is an Argentine military post on the opposite side of the har- bor to the mission station.
Anchorage may be obtained in 6 to 8 fathoms, sand and mad, at the head of the bay.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Ushuwaia bay at 3h. 58m. ; springs rise a>bout 7 feet.
Lapataia bay, 7| miles west of Ushuwaia, is 2 miles long and ^ mile wide. Bound islet, 370 feet high, stands in the entrance, and has a small pyramid on the summit. The anchorage is in 15 fathoms, sand and mud, about one mile westward of the south entrance point of the bay.
cove, on the south shore of Beagle channel, at 10 miles
west of Lapataia bay, and 4^ miles SE. by £. from Divide i>oint, the east extreme of Gordon island, is ^ mile in extent, and affords anchor- age in 11 fathoms, mud, in the center of the cove.
Flenriais bay, on the north shore of the SW. arm of Beagle channel, 13 miles west of Divide point, affords anchorage in 12 fathoms, stctne, with' the east extreme of Senecal islets bearing SW., distant 1,100 yards.
Rafales bay. — ^Anchorage was also found in this bay just NE. of cape Keklao, the west extreme of Glou^ peninsula (Hoste island), but it is not recommended.
Romanche bay, on the north shore of Gordon island, in ISW, arm, at 17 miles west of Divide point, runs in a southerly direction for 2| miles, thence westerly one mile, with generally deep water. At 2^ miles from the entrance there is anchorage in 15 fathoms, sand and mud, with a peaked hill 2,950 feet high, bearing N. 60o W. (N. 79° W. mag.), nearly one mile distant. Immediately within the west entrance point of Bomanche bay is Morning cove, having anchorage in 11 fathoms.
Voilier cove, at 3^ miles westward of Bomanche bay, is about i mile in extent, with depths of 7 to 11 fathoms. Anchorage maybe obtained in 10 fathoms, sand and mud, with the entrance points of the cove bear- ing, respectively, 'N. 51o W. (N. 70^ W. mag.) and :N^. 68° E. (N. 39o E. mag.). At 400 yards northward of the entrance to the lagoon, at the head of the<x)ve,i8 a kelp patch, about equal distances from the shore around and 500 yards SSE. of the above mentioned anchoring ground.
Baleines bay, on the north side of O'Brien island and 32 miles west of Yoilier cove, has anchorage in its SW. corner, in 7^ fathoms, broken shell.
Nassau bay is between Nav-arin island on the north and WoUaston islands on the south. It extends to the NW. through Ponsonby sound and the Murray narrows to Beagle channel, has many anchorages on
w
HERMITE ISLANDS, 23
each coast, and the only known dangers are some small islands and rocks which are easily avoided by daylight. The northern shore is low, particularly near Gaanaco point, whence the coast changes its level land and low earthy cliffs for rocky heights. In Ponsonby sound there is anchorage with good holding ground on the east side of But- ton island, northward of a chain of flat wooded islets extending from the SE. point of the island.
Anchorage can also be obtained in Douglas bay, but close to the shore. The holding ground is good, but is exposed to westerly winds and sea.
Terhalten and Sesambre are two small but high islands about 6 miles south of Lennox island. They are one mile apart in a NW. and SE. direction. Off the SE. side of Sesambre, the southern island, there is a reef marked by kelp.
The Evout islands lie in the fair way to Fassau bay, at 10 miles SE. of Sesambre.
The Bamevelt islands lie 15 miles south of Evout islands. The chart and sketches are a sufficient description for the appearance of the coast from cape Good Success to cape Horn.
Caution. — In.Kassau bay the compasses are much affected; they become very sluggish, and might cause serious errors if not carefully attended to.
Remarks. — ^When standing to the westward it might be preferable to work through Nassau bay and out by False Oape Horn, instead of by the open sea around cape Horn, as is the usual course. The charts of that vicinity are tolerably reliable, the water much smoother, and good anchorages near at hand. When blowing too hard to make any way to the westward it is some satisfaction, when at anchor, to know that one's position is being maintained instead of drifting to leeward and perhaps suffering damage from the heavy seas. Moreover, there is less current through the bay than in the open sea near cape Horn.
Hermite, or Cape Horn, islands are composed of greenstx)ne, in which hornblende and feldspar are more or less prominent. Their shores are bold and steep-to; the mountains are sharp pointed, with steep ascents, and, being thickly overgrown with shrubs and evergreen ^ trees from their bases to within about 300 feet of their summits, render
them diflScult of access.
Hermite island, the westernmost of the group, is high and rugged at the east side, but sloping toward cape West, which is quite low. Wollaston and Herschel islands are mountainous. The passages between them are deep and free from dangers; what few rocks there are show themselves above water or are well marked with kelp. Some rocks extend 400 yards southeastward from Chanticleer island, at the entrance to St. Martin cove, but no dangers exist to the southward; these islands may be approached tolerably close. Mount Hyde, on the ^ largest of the Wollaston islands, is 2,211 feet above the sea and is the
highest land in this group.
24 CAPE HORN — PORT MAXWELL.
Deceit isUmd is the easternmost of the Hermite gronp^ and from tbe eastward its appearance is not unlike Diego Bamirez. Off cape Deceit, its SE. point, are several rocks above water, and 2 miles 8E. of the cape there is a cluster of pinnacle rocks 30 to 40 feet above the sea.
South Sea pass, between Deceit and Herschel islands at one mile west of it, is obstructed by a cluster of barren islets. The best channel through has been found nearest to Deceit island.
Cape Horn is the extreme southern point of Horn island. It is 1,391 feet high, and presents a remarkable appearance when seen close- to, showing high black cliffs toward the south. Off the west of the cape are some rocks on which the. sea always breaks. Also off the east point of Horn island there are small rocks above water.
St. Martin cove, on the east side of Hermite island, bears from cape Horn K. 49° W. (N. 68o W. mag.), distant 12 miles, and is further marked by Chanticleer island, lying about 1 J mile S. 85^ B. (N. 76^ B. mag.) from South head. In this direction there are no dangers that are not visible, and the cove is easy of access with KB., B., or SB. winds, but with the westerly ones that prevail here it is quite the reverse, and vessels must then anchor off the entrance in 22 fathoms and warp into the cove to a convenient berth in 18. fathoms, sandy bottom, J mile from the head of the cove and about midway fipom either side. This berth is quite secure, although the williwaws rush down with great violence. These gusts strike the spars aloft without bring- ing much strain on the ground tackle.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in St. Martin cove at 3h. 40m., rise 8 feet, bat the observations for tide were uncertain on account of the swell.
Supplies. — Wood and water are in abundance in every part of St. Martin cove, but can not always be procured, from the steepness of the shores and the heavy swell that sometimes sets in. The water is highly colored by the vegetable matter through which it percolates, but no inconvenience was found in its use except a somewhat unpleas- ant taste. The wood was very much twisted and stunted in growth, and did not appear fit for any other purpose than ftiel.
The shores are skirted with kelp, among which a good supply of fish may be caught with hook and line.
At the head of the cove, and a few feet beyond the reach of high- water spring tides, abundance of celery is to be found, as also in many other places in the cove.
Port Maxwell, about 2 miles north of St. Martin cove, is a secure anchorage, rather out of the way, but untroubled by mountain squalls or williwaws. Though it has four openings, only two are fit for ves- sels— ^those to the north and east. The best berth is in 16 fathoms, sand. This harbor is decidedly good, though it requires a little more time and trouble to make.
The north channel is the better for sailing vessels, but care must be taken of the rock with 3 feet over it, 750 yards KNE. of Maxwell
^
}
FRANKLIN SOUND — PACKSADDLE BAY. 25
island, also of other rocks lying in mid'Channel, one of whicli dries at half tide.
Franklin sound, between Wollaston and the Hermite islands, is clear of obstruction, and apparently has no other danger than those shown on the chart.
Vessels can anchor in the two bays on the east side of Herschel island; the northern of the two has a white sand beach.
Scourfield and Hately bays are on the ]!^B. side of Wollaston island, but the water is deep for anchorage. r Middle cove, 4 miles northward from Hately bay, though small, is
secure; but when it blows the squalls from the high land are violent.
Gretton bay is an extensive body of water open to the NB., with convenient depths for anchoring. There is a narrow but deep channel, named Washington, connecting the head of this bay with Franklin sound. The flood current sets to the northward through this passage. Victoria channel joins Gretton bay with Beaufort bay; it is narrow and full of rocks.
Daedalus rock, 3 feet under water, IIT. 46^ E. (N. 26^ B. mag.) of Daedalus island, distant ^ mile, and Hazeltine rock, 16 feet under water, N. 68° B. (N. 49° B. mag.) of the same island, and distant about 2 miles, are dangers to be avoided in entering this road from the north- ward. Other rocks are reported to the south and west of Hazeltine rock.
Banner shoal, 1,400 yards S. 60o B. (S. 79° B. mag.) from Dillon point, the NW. extreme of Gretton bay, is marked by kelp; it has 2f fathoms over it, with 7 fathoms midway between it and the shore.
North road, in the northern part of Gretton bay, is easy of access, comparatively well sheltered, and a very good stopping place for a ves- sel working through IN^assau bay.
Otter anchorage, between Otter and Diane islands, is easy of acceiss and fairly well sheltered.
Seagull anchorage, small but well sheltered, is formed by the islands fronting Victoria channel. It is only fit for small vessels of light draft. The best berth is in 4 fathoms west of Gun point.
Romanche anchorage is between Otaries and Bayly islands, and forms the approach to Seagull anchorage, lb Hardy peninsula. — Navarin and Hoste, the two large islands form-
ing the south shore of Beagle channel, are separated by Ponsonby sound, which opens into Nassau bay. Harda peninsula, a projection of Hoste island, affords several anchorages on its eastern side. Its southern extremity, False Cape Horn, is a very remarkable headland, and from the east or west resembles a large horn.
Facksaddle bay, on the N"E. side of Hardy peninsula, is sheltered from NW. winds by an island resembling a packsaddle. It is safe and roomy, but not so convenient as Orange bay, 5 miles to the southward.
Mission station. — !N^ear Packsaddle bay a mission station has been ^ established at Tekenika, where shipwrecked seamen will receive assist-
ance from the South American Missionary Society. The attention of
26 OBANQE BAY — ^DIEGO RAMIREZ ISLANDS.
mariners is called to the advantage of this mission station as a place of refuge to the crews of vessels wrecked or abandoned in the vicinity of cape Horn, and to the fact that the natives of Kew Year sound, soath side of Hoste island, are in friendly communication, overland, with Tekenika station.
Orange bay is considered one of the best harbors on the coast; although it is open to the eastward, Wollaston islands are a protection against the heavy sea from that quarter.
Off the bay anchorage depths extend to 2 miles from the land. The opening of the bay is 4 miles wide, and in that part are 18 or 20 fath- oms, fine speckled sand. Two islands, the larger having a down-like appearance, lie in the middle; behind them is the harbor, a square mile of excellent anchorage, without a rock or shoal, well adapted for a large fleet, and where they could be supplied with any quantity of wood or water. The best watering place is in Water cove, on the north side of the bay. In the two creeks at the south side there is good anchorage for small vessels, in 20 to 5 fathoms, fine speckled sand. The land in the vicinity is low, comparatively speaking, and the williwaws are con- sequently not violent. A vessel may close the shore to a moderate distance in every part; therefore, no directions are necessary to point out the way to the best berth, which is marked in the plan. Off the north point of the bay there are several small islets which must not be approached too closely.'
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Orange bay at 3h. 36m.; springs rise about 9 feet.
Schapenam bay, the nextinlet south of Orange bay, is 1^ miles wide, having near the middle a small black rock above water. A quantity of kelp, lying over a rocky bottom, is seen at the head of the bay, and a large waterfall marks the place distinctly. There is an anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms near its south point, but it is not recommended. The land behind is high and rugged; two singular peaks which resemble sentry boxes show themselves. !N^ear the shore the land is low com- pared with other parts of the coast, and has not the iron-bound, forbid- ding appearance of the more westerly shores. From the heights sudden, very strong squalls blow during westerly winds. Being generally a weather shore and regular soundings extending along it, there is no difficulty in approaching or choosing an anchorage.
Rice bay, 2 miles south of Schapenham, is inside a small island, and, although smalljs landlocked and a safe anchorage. Depths of 6 fathoms were found in this anchorage.
Lort bay, 5 miles south of Schapenham, is about 2 miles wide, with a fair anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. Bocks above water lie off the northern shore.
Diego Ramirez islands cover a space of nearly 5 miles in a north and south direction. North rock is about 56 miles S. 59° W. (S. 39° W. mag.) of cape Horn. The height of the principal island is 687 feet.
r
ILDEFONSO ISLANDS — ^TALBOT PASSAGE. 27
A vessel may pass between the northern group and that to the south- ward. Detached rocks lie off the southern island; all the outer ones are above water. The southern or Boat island has a cove at its north- ern corner where boats can land, and where water may be procured on the point close to the eastward of the landing place.
Ildefonso islands extend in a KW. and SE. direction for 5 miles and rise above the sea level about 100 feet. The SB. point of the islands is about 42 miles distant and bears S. 78o W. (S. 58° W. mag.) of False Cape Horn. They appear to be the remains of a mountain ridge broken through in many place's by the sea. Vessels may pass close to them, for there is no danger.
Coralie cove. — South of Hardy peninsula in Bomanche channel is Coralie cove, where a vessel might obtain temporary shelter, but the space is confined.
JXevr Tear sound, on the west side of Hardy peninsula, is a large tract of water studded with islands and extending about 20 miles in a NW. direction, terminating in four arms ; these arms are very deep, but mostly end in coves, where a vessel could moor. An arm extending to the NB. is separated from Ponsonby sound by an isthmus about J mile across, over which the natives haul their canoes. Between False Cape Horn and Kew Year sound there is a tract of broken land fronted by islands; between these islands and Hardy peninsula there is a channel i mile wide, affording two anchorages, sheltered from SW. winds.
Indian bay, within the entrance of the sound, on the western shore, is not recommended ; the bottom is rocky, with deep water.
The French Government vessel Bomanche discovered two anchorages on the east side of Morton island at 36 miles W. by N. of False Cape Horn, but the water is very deep and they are not recommended. Mount Beaufoy, 1,739 feet high, on Henderson island, at the entrance of New Year sound, is a sharp- pointed hill, visible at a great distance; from its summit the Diego Ramirez islands were seen, though upwards of 50 miles distant. A dangerous reef lies 2 miles S. 6° B. (S. 25o E. mag.) from Brisbane head, the south point of Henderson island.
Clearbottom bay, at the north end of Morton island, is small and affords indifferent shelter in strong westerly winds. Wyatt cove, in the SE. part of Hind island, is a better place, but is not sheltered from southerly winds.
Leading hill, on Hind island, is a remarkable double-peaked height, which is visible from a distance of 18 or 20 miles 5 it points out the entrance to Duff* bay.
Neither Rous sound nor Trefusis bay to the westward afford anchor- age places. There are no known sheltered coves fit for anchorage in the Wood islands; passages and broken land lie behind them to the northward,
Talbot passage, separating the Wood islands on the west side of Trefusis bay from Hoste island, is only 4 mile wide in the narrows;
28 CHRISTMAS SOUND — ^LONDONDERRY ISLANDS.
several rocks and islets obstruct the SE. entrance, and this passage should not be attempted by a sailinf]^ vessel. There is an anchorage in An got cove, at the entrance of Talbot passage, under the lee of Garo- Kne island, the easternmost of the Wood islands, but it can not be recommended.
Christmas sound has no hidden dangers. Little and Great Black rocks being in plain view on entering. Adventure cove is the easiest of access, but it is so small that it will afiford shelter for not more than one vessel at a time.
Waterman island may be recognized by its remarkable heights, the southern one being named, by Captain Cook, York Minster, from its fancied resemblance to that building. He describes it as a ^'wild looking rock." There are several rocks and islets close to the eastward of this height. One lies 2 miles S. 75o B. (N. 84° E. mag.) of the extremity of the Minster, on which the sea breaks violently; a vessel may pass close to it. Off the Great Black rock are several breakers caused by rocks under water. Among these islands there is but very little current.
Capstan rocks, 8 miles west of York Minster and 4 miles south of the western point of Waterman island, are about 20 feet out of waten with breakers extending ^ mile north and 3 miles westward of them. They should be given a berth of 6 miles when passing westward of them.
March harbor, on the east side of Waterman island, is large, with good holding ground, but there are many rocky places, and on a sunken rock marked by very thick kelp there is only one fathom.
Port Clarke, about one mile to the northward of March harbor, is secure when inside, but, from its situation, is exposed to very violent squalls. It is accessible only to steamers. The passage to it from the northward is obstructed by rocks, so that the coast of Shag island must be kept close aboard until abreast the entrance. When entering the port the south shore should be neared ; vessels moor in the inner part of the harbor, on a mud bottom; good holding ground.
Webb inlet, on the SW. side of Hoste island, has two arms; one extends 18 miles in a NE. direction and terminates at a low isthmus; the other arm extends about 3 miles in an easterly direction.
Cook bay is the large space between Waterman island and London- derry islands at 12 miles west of it, but broken land, islets, and break- ers surround and make it unfit for the approach of vessels. On the east side of this bay there is an entrance to Beagle channel, and to the NW. a passage to Whaleboat sound, but both are unfit for sailing ves- sels, excepting with a fair wind.
Londonderry islands consist of a group about 28 miles in extent. Treble island, the southeasternmost of the group, is remarkable, having three peaks, and is visible from a considerable distance; near it are some straggling rocks, shown in the chart. Phillip rocks, lying about
STEWART ISLANDS— OAMDEN ISLANDS. 29
6 miles southwestward from cape Alikhoolip, the sonth cape of these islands, are dangeroas, thoagh above water, because so far from the shore and so low. Between these rocks and Treble island the space isfouL
Gilbert and Stewart islands, the next groap westward of London- derry islands, have between them an open space, named Adventure passage, with deep water.
Doris cove, on the KE. side of the eastern Gilbert, is a safe anchor- age for small vessels, with no hidden dangers in the vicinity.
SteiTirart harbor is just north of the high and remarkable western promontory of Stewart island, cape Castlereagh. Though not large, this harbor is an excellent place for small vessels, having three open- ings and being easy of access with any wind. The anchorage is in 6 fathoms of water under the lee of Shelter island. Two rocks just awash at high water lie nearly in the middle of the harbor, and a rock on which the sea breaks lies about one mile west of the middle opening. There is no other danger. Wood and water are plentiful and easily obtained.
Desolate bay, between Stewart Island and Camden islands, has pas- sages leading into Oourtenay, Thieves, and Whaleboat sounds. Eocks, breakers, and islets abound, making these waters unsafe tor vessels. Cape Desolation, the south point of Basket island, is a prominent rugged headland with many peaks.
Burnt island anchorage, 6 miles north of Stewart island, is shel- tered from prevailing winds, and anchorage may be obtained in 11 fathoms ; good holding ground off the !N^E. x>oint of Burnt island. There is a patch of kelp close to the anchorage, in which a least depth of 5^ fathoms was found. Kelp extends i mile in an easterly direction from the SE. point of Burnt island.
Camden islands lie off Brecknock peninsula, the western extreme of the main island of Tierra del Fuego. The islands have several pas- sages between and to the northward of them, with deep water and anchorages opposite most of the valleys, where small vessels could ffnd shelter. Brecknock pass is wide, free from danger, and is to be pre- ferred when entering or leaving Barbara channel so as to avoid passing Furies rocks. >
(H. O. Chart No. 452a.)
Townshend harbor is a safe anchorage, with Horace peak pointing out its position. After passing the rocks, on which the sea breaks vio- lently, off the entrance of Pratt passage, the navigator, in working into this harbor, must depend upon the wind lasting, as there are no soundings in less than 50 fathoms until just off the anchorage place. The holding ground is excellent, and, though tremendous squalls come off the high land to the westward, there is no fear of the anchor starting.
The Furies. — In the space between London and Fury islands, rocks
30 MELVILLE SOUND— COCKBURN CHANNEL.
show themselves in every direction, the East and West Furies being the most remarkable. They lie on a northward and westward bearing from cape Schomberg, the former 4 and the latter 9 miles from that promontory. In a line between them, and 3 miles from West Furies, is a solitary rock, from which mount Skyring bears N. 12^ B. (N. 9^ W. mag.) 12J miles. The Tussac rocks are 4J miles N. 72o E. (N. 51° E. mag.) of the West Furies, with no outlying dangers. Vessels standing in with a. westerly wind should i3ass near the West Furies and steer for these rocks. After passing them there are no known dangers in the entrance to Oockburn channel.
Melville sound is completely filled with rugged and desolate islands. Among the Magill islands, on the SE. side of Melville sound, there are several coves and anchorages. Mount Skyring, on Mount Skyring island, is 3,000 feet high.
Port Tom, on the SE. side of Mount Skyring island, is good and well sheltered, except from the violent squalls off the high laud. It is more safe and secure than Fury harbor.
Fury harbor, on the SE. side of Fury island, has but little shelter and bad holding ground. From its nearness to the Furies and Tussac rocks, where seals are found, this harbor is much frequented by the sealers.
North cove, on the NE. side of Fury island, is a snug temporary anchorage for small vessels.
Bynoe island, 3 miles north of Skyring, affords anchorage on its NE. side; and Hewett bay, on the west shore of Barbara channel, is a good stopping place either for entering or leaving the channel.
A patch of kelp about 2 miles long, NW. and SE., was observed by the Chilean corvette Magallanes in 1878 about a mile south of the west- ernmost Bynoe islapd; a depth of 13 fathoms Iv^as obtained near the north and 11 fathoms near the south side of this patch. When passing between Mortimer and Kempe islands, on the north side of Melville sound, no bottom was obtained at depth of 30 fathoms in the bights of the Mortimer island shore.
The Magallanes anchored in 14f fathoms between some patches of kelp extending from the SE. and S W. points of an island IJ miles west of Mortimer island. A short distance west of this anchorage there is a large patch of kelp with several sunken rocks.
Cockbum channel, having the same entrance into the Pacific as Barbara channel, runs in an easterly direction along the south side of Clarence island for 40 miles and into Magdalen sound in Magellan strait. In working through this passage the south shore ought to be preferred, as it is usually a weather shore, and it seems to be better provided with coves and inlets in which a vessel may find it convenient to anchor. King and Fitz-Eoy islands, as well as Kirke rocks, are bold and steep-to.
Prowse islands, on the south shore of Cockburn channel, are numer- ous, and skirt the coast for several miles. There are anchorages among
1
^ DYNELEY SOUND — STORMY BAY. 31
these islands; behind them the land trends in and forms a deep sound. A vessel in want of anchorage should send a boat, and wait in the off- ing until good anchorage be found; and when about to enter one of these deep-water bays, a boat should always be ready to carry a hawser ashore. It will frequently be necessary in sailing vessels to tow up to the head of the harbors, for, from the height of the land, the wind generally fails or becomes baffling. The distance across the channel between Prowse islands and Barrow head on the north side of the L channel is scarcely IJ miles.
Dyneley sound, the first opening on the north shore of Cockbum channel, extends for more than 9 miles in a northerly direction, and is joined to San Pedro sound on the south shore of Magellan strait by a channel having 5 fathoms in the narrows. On the west side of Dyneley sound there is a group of islands, affording several anchorages.
Eliza bay, just within the entrance to Dyneley sound on the south- ern shore, affords shelter from northwesterly and southwesterly winds. Ill entering steer midway between Baynes and Dyneley island until a large patch of kelp (having several rocks awash at low water) is seen; this should be passed at a distance of 100 yards; thence steer for an island on the west side of the bay and anchor in 16 or 17 fathoms. There are several patches of kelp in Eliza bay in not leas than 6 fath- oms of water. Small vessels may anchor in either of two small inner bays, sheltered from all winds. Vessels entering the bay without local knowledge should have a boat ahead sounding.
Mercury sound is separated from Dyneley sound by an island, the southern part of which is Barrow head.
Park bay, on the east side of the entrance to Mercury sound, affords a good anchorage in 12 fathoms, sand and mud. It and Stormy bay have the same disadvantage, as they are on the lee side of the channel and consequently difficult to leave. There is, however, more room to work out, and no dangers to encounter but what are visible. At the head of the bay a narrow isthmus, not more than 500 yards across, separates it from Mercury sound, which has not been examined; it is represented on the chart from an eye sketch.
Captain Montt remarks that the best anchorage in Park bay is in 12 l» fathoms, shell, in the center of a cove west of the innermost island of
I the bay. This cove is about 400 yards wide and 300 yards deep, with
' 6 to 17 fathoms water. Anchorage may also be obtained in 17 fathoms
between the island and a small point farther in the bay; there is, how- ever, a patch of kelp in the vicinity having 2 to 4 fathoms. North- ward of the cove there is a small cascade. Wood is plentifdl in Park bay.
Stormy bay, the next opening west of Park bay and 7 miles SE. of it, is a very wild, unsheltered place, unfit for any vessel to enter. At the anchorage the water is deep, 17 to 20 fathoms, and the bottom rocky. In the bay are numerous shoals, but though they are all marked
32 BABIPABA QUASNEh — ^BSDFOBD BAT.
by kelp, they narrow the channel so much as to render the entrance and exit both intricate and difficult for any but a small and handy yessel.
Warp bay, the next opening, and just west of cape Turn, though small and exposed to southerly winds, is a convenient stopping place.
Adelaide passage, between the broken land of Clarence island and the Magill group, is about 13 miles long, connecting Gockburn and Barbara channels.
Tides. — In Barbara channel the flood stream was found to set to seaward or to the southward, as was also the casein Gockburn channel; but the whole system of tides in this great archipelago requires a care- ful investigation.
Barbara channel, leading into Magellan strait at English reach, has its southern entrance so encumbered with islands and rocks that no one direct channel can be specially recommended, and the chart must be referred to as the best guide for its navigation. For small vessels there is neither danger nor difficulty; and there are numerous anchor- ages that they may reach without trouble. The rocks off the entrance of this channel should only be passed during daylight and in clear weather, so that a vessel may be st^eered more by a good eye at the masthead than by any chart. Four remarkable mountains point out the entrance distinctly. The peaks on Kempe island are high, and show three points. The peaks on Fury island are high smd divided. Mount Skyring is high, and has a single peak. Mount St. Paul, from near Fury island, appears like the dome of the cathedral, the name of which it bears.
The channel separates Clarence island from Santa Ines, the next large island west of it, and is about 38 miles long from Magill islands in the Pacific to Charles islands in Magellan strait.
Hewiftt bay is the first anchorage on the western shore of the south- ern entrance of Barbara channel; there is anchorage in 9 fathoms in its north part. Between Hewitt and Nort bay the channel is so strewed with rocks and shoals, some only showing at half tide, that much cau- tioii is necessary in its navigation ; all patches of kelp should be avoided. The tidal currents are much stronger to the northward of !Nort bay than to the southward.
The country hereabouts has a more agreeable appearance, being better wooded with beech and cypress trees.
"Brovm bay, two miles northward of Hewitt bay, is more extensive, and affords shelter in a small cove at the north entrance in 8 fathoms, sand.
Nort bay, four miles north of Brown bay, is tolerably secure for small vessels, but is not to be recommended.
Bedford bay, on the western side of the narrow part of Barbara channel, at about 9* miles north of Nort bay, has good holding ground, with depths of 20 to 8 fathoms, and well sheltered from the
» BABBARA CHANNEL — ^SHAG NAEBOWS. 3*
prevailiDg wiuds. At its entrauce are several patches of kelp, the eastern one having 4 fathoms of water on it.
Natlazid bay, 5^ miles northward of Bedford bay, has from 8 to 15 fathoms over a sand and mud bottom. Its position may be known by two rocks, named Hills islands^ which lie one mile northward from the anchorage. Between Bedford and Kutland bays, and, indeed, so far as Shag narrows, the channel is open, and may be navigated without apprehension. There are many bays and inlets which, though not here described, might be conveniently occupied j but all would require to be previously examined, for though they all trend far enough into the land to afford good shelter, yet in many the bottom is foul and rocky and the water too deep for anchorage. The western, being the wind- ward shore, should of course be preferred.
Broderip bay, 3^ miles northward of Kutland bay, has in its northern part some good coves, and a very convenient one at its eastern extremity. This cove extends to the northward for about ^ mile, affording good anchorage in 10 fathoms, sufficiently well sheltered and distant from high land to be free from williwaws. Bound the cape north of this cove is Icy sound, a deep inlet with a glacier of considerable extent, from which large masses of ice are constantly falling and drifting out of the inlet. The water is deep, and the anchorage should not be chosen when there are so many better places.
Dean harbor, the next opening north of Icy sound, is a considerable inlet, trending in under the same glacier, and extending to the head of Smyth harbor, as well as to a great distance into the interior. If of a favorable depth, it might afford good anchorage, but it has. not yet been examined.
Field bay, nearly 2 miles east of Icy sound, is too much exposed to southerly winds to be recommended as a stopping place, unless the wind be northerly. Jutland bay is a more convenient place to start from with a view of passing the Narrows.
Shag Narrows, west of Cayetano island, is the only navigable pas- sage between the channel and Magellan strait. Although the breadth of the opening is at least one mUe, the eastern portion is so filled up ! with rocky islands and shoals that the actual navigable passage is not
W more than 120 yards across at the northern part, and the width at the
southern end scarcely J mile. The whole length is not more than 2 miles. It is formed on the western side by a projecting point of high land, and on the opposite side by three islands, the northern one of which is Wet island, and the southern mount Woodcock. All the space to the eastward of the last-mentioned one is so foul that the pasr ssCge is as difficult as it is dangerous.
Tides. — In these narrows at full and change the stream commences to set to the southward at 12h. Through them the tidal streams, attalsb ^velocity as great as 7 knots, but the sides of the rocks being ste^p-tO)
b 1943— IS^o. 89 3
34 SHAG NARROWS — SMTTH HARBOR.
no danger need be apprehended in passing them, notwithstanding the want of room for working ship. At Wet island the stream of the ebb divides, one part setting round the island to the eastward, while the principal volame sets through the Karrows. In the same manner the southern or flood stream, after passing Wet island, sets to the SE. round the eastern side of mount Woodcock.
Directioiis. — ^To avoid the danger of being thrown out of the Nar- rows, it is only necessary to keep the western shore aboard ; where there are no indentations the tide will carry a vessel along with safety. At the northern end of the Narrows, on the western side, there is a shelv- ing ledge with only 5 fathoms water; and there is an eddy, but as soon as the vessel is once within the Narrows (that is, inside Wet island), the mid-channel may be kept. When shooting this passage in a sailing vessel, it would be better to furl the sails and tow through, for if the wind be strong, the varying and violent squalls would be very incon- venient, sometimes baffling, and sometimes almost laying the vessel upon her beam ends, though every sail be furled. It will be necessary to have a couple of boats out, ready to tow the vessel's head round, and also to prevent her being thrown by the tide into the channel to the southward of Wet island.
For a sailing vessel requiring to pass through Barbara channel, from the northward, it would be advisable to stay at Fortescue bay, on the north shore of Magellan strait, until a favorable opportunity should offer; for with a 8W. wind it would not be safe, even if practicable, to pass Shag Narrows.
If anchorage be desirable on leaving the narrows, there is none to be recommended until the coves between Smyth harbor and cape Edge- worth be reached. Of these, Dighton bay is the best; the anchorage is. off the sandy beach in 20 fathoms. Warrington cove, the next to the northward, also offers good shelter and anchorage, but both are exposed to easterly winds.
Edgeworth shoal, lying ^ mile SE. of cape Edgeworth, is so thickly covered with kelp as to be easily seen when approaching it; there is not more than 2 feet of water over its shoalest part.
Smsrth harbor, the first opening north of the narrows, is about 4 miles long in a westerly direction, from ^ mile to one mile wide, and sur- rounded by high land. The water is deep, excepting in Earle cove, on the north side, where vessels might lie, if necessary; but it would prob- ably be a very wild place in bad weather. The hills at the head of the bay are capped by glaciers that communicate with those at the head of Icy sound; and all the mountains between this place and Whale sound, in the strait, appear to be entirely covered with a coating of ice.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Smyth harbor, at 12h.; springs rise 6 or 7 feet.
Agnes islands, the group to the NW. of the Magill islands, and those in their neighborhood, do not require any description. They are
m NQIS; ISUOIDS— CAPE QLOUCESTEB. 35
SO fortified by oatlyiag rocks as to be mifit places for the approach of any vessel. iN^orthward of them is Stokes bay, and to the eastward a number of islands, between which lies the S W. entraoee to the Barbara channel. A vedsel ought not to get entangled in these labyrinths ; if so it will be necessary to navigate by eye, for neither chart, directions, nor soundings would be of much assistance, and in thick weather the situation would be most precarious.
Noir islandi 17 miles in SWi direction from Kempe island, is the out- lying islet of this labyrinth; it is about 600 feet above the sea, with a ^ remarkable neck of land to the SW., having on its extremity a rock
resembling a steeple or tower. One mile south of this point there is a sunken rock, over which the sea occasionally breaks ; two other breakers are in the bight close to the point.
Noir road, on the east side of Noir island, is an excellent roadstead, with a sandy bottom, where vessels may lie secure from all westerly winds. Wood and water are easily obtained. On the south shore of this island there is a cove which would be safe for boats in any weather. A rock lies in the road, and another, which is very dangerous, lies 4 miles to the eastward, as shown on the chart.
Tower rocks. — ^The Tower rocks, lying 7 miles south of Koir island, are high and steep-to, and may be passed tolerably close on either side.
Caution. — Between cape Schomberg on London isle and Koir island lie many reefs, and a great number of detached outlying rocks, which render this part of the coast extremely dangerous and unfit for vessels. Ko chart could guide them; they must trust to daylight and clear weather, with a good look-out, if necessary, to enter or leave Baj*bara channel.
Milky Way is the name given to the space lying between Koir island and those to the northward and eastward. All this ground is more or less strewn with rocks just awash or a few feet above water, and on them the sea breaks continually. It is advisable to avoid all this part of the coast.
Grafton islands are high, extending KW. and BE. about 20 miles, and the remarks on the general character of this coast are applicable to them. Between them are several sheltered inlets, but the best and W easiest of access is Euston bay. Northward of these islands lies Wake-
field passage, made use of sometimes by sealing vessels. Hope harbor is sometimes used by these vessels.
Isabel island, the BE. of the group, has an anchorage, but is only fit for small craft. There are several rocks off the south point of this island. The Kennal rocks are 3 miles to the southward and from them 3 miles farther K 56° W. (N. 78^ W. mag.) is a rock just awash.
Cape Gloucester, the western extreme of Charles island, the largest
and westernmost of the group, is a prominent headland, and can not
easily be mistaken. At a distance it appears to be a high detached
^ island, but on approaching it a low connecting isthmus will be seen.
36 TIEBRA DEL FUEGO — ^WE8T COAST.
A rock on which the sea breaks lies nearly a mile to the northward and westward^ there is no other danger, and the cape may be passed dose to, it being steep.
Eiiston bay is one of the best anchorages on this coltet, as it can be approached and left without risk with any wind. When coming from the westward after rounding cape Gloucester, Ipswich island will be seen to the southward and eastward, distant 7 miles. In rounding Ipswich island, give it a good berth to clear some rocks under water, upon which the sea does not always break.
After clemng these rocks, pass close to Leading island, and then steer for the opening of Laura harbor, which will be seen under a high peaked mountain. There is water in the bight for a moderate-sized vessel, but it is bettei* suited for a small vessel. Large vessels should anchor in the bay. This bay is large, with a bottom even and good, exposed only to SE. winds, which come on gradually and seldom blow hard. The depth varies from 5 to 20 fathoms; a large patch' of kelp lies across the entrance to the harbor, but there is no danger beneath it except in one spot, where there are only 4 fathoms.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Euston bay at Ih.; springs rise 6 feet.
(H.O. Chart No. 445.)
Fincham islands lie 21 miles NW. of cape Gloucester, the space between being known as the Breaker coast, a long stretch of wild coast line fiill of rocks and breakers exposed to all the strength of the westerly gales. It is utterly unfit for the approach of a vessel.
Cape Tate, about 8 miles N W. of Fincham islands, is rather high and rounded at the summit. There are numerous clusters of rocks off it to the westward and northward, only visible when near the land. They are known as the College rocks. This part of the coast is very dangerous and should be avoided.
Landfall islands, 10 miles NW. of cape Tate, were named by Captain Cook from seeing them first when he visited this coast. Cape Schetky is a remarkable double-peaked height; there are some rocks just awash about a mile off it. Off cape Inmau, another prominent headland, there are several detached rocks on which the sea breaks violently. The outer one is not more than 2 miles from the shore, and shows itself plainly.
Iiatitade bay is a good anchorage, although exposed to a swell thrown in by heavy NW. winds. Between the Landfall islands there is a snug berth in security with smooth water for a vessel drawing not more than 12 feet. She must moor in not less than 10 fathoms as close to the western shore as possible, with an anchor to the eastward in the event of the wind coming from that quarter. Wood and water are plentifril.
TideB.—lt is high water, full and change, in Latitude bay at 2h. ;
i^rings rise 4 feet.
P» OTWAY BAY — WEATHER AND LEE ROCKS. 37
Otway bay is an extensive body of water Bnrronnded with broken land, islands, and rocks. Passages lead from thence to Magellan strait through Dynevor sound and Sea Shell channel to Abra of Sarmiento. Sea Shell channel is a navigable passage, and may be usefal to a vessel embayed in Otway bay. See page 91.
Week islands, nearly 6 miles l^W. of Landfall islands, are sepa- rated from Desolation island by Murray passage. At their south side is a roadstead, with good holding ground in 18 or 20 fathoms, coarse . gravel and sand with patches of rock, but, being exposed to southerly
' winds and to those from the west, can not be recommended as an
anchorage.
Saturday harbor. — ^Between the islands a small vessel may find a snug berth in Saturday harbor, quite secure but difficult of access, in 24 fathoms, good holding ground. As before said, the eye must be the chief guide in entering most of these places; they are of one descrip- * tion — iulets between high ridges of land, having, generally, deep water, and kelp marking the rocky places. Flaws of wind and violent gusts off the high land render the approach difficult, and to a large sailing vessel impracticable.
Cape Sunday, the western point of Graves island, the largest of the Week islands, is a high and^^rominent headland with several islets and dangerous rocks off it. Barrister bay opens out just after passing this cape. It is too much exposed to be of any use as an anchorage place.
The coast from abreast Graves island trends in a northwesterly direction 28 miles to cape Deseado, the west extreme of Desolation island, thence 2 miles northeasterly to cape Pillar. At about 15 miles northwestward of Week islands is the highest cape hereabout, and remarkable. A rocky islet, named Black islet, lies one mile off the cape^ and 2 miles to the southeastward of this islet there is an opening between a group, named Cotesworth islands and Desolation island, which has not yet been examined.
Soundings. — ^The 50-fathoms line appears to extend about 20 miles off shore along this southwestern coast of Tierra del Fuego, the bottom being coarse sand.
Dislocation harbor, at 5 miles NW. from Cotesworth islands, is a ^ place of refuge for an embayed or distressed vessel, but unfit for any
other purpose. The position of the harbor is pointed out by the heights, named Law and Shoulder peaks; they are the most remarkable on that part of the coast. Its entrance is rendered difficult to the eye by rocks, on which the sea breaks violently, and by two rocks under water, on which the sea does not always break. Water may be easily obtained; the boats can lie in a stream which runs from the mountains. Wood is plentiful.
Weather and Lee rocks lie off Dislocation harbor, respectively
If. 620 W. (N. 840 W. mag.), distant 2f miles, and S. 19° W. (S. 3o E.
to luag.), distance 3^ miles from the entrance, which is narrow, exposed
38 CAPE PILLAB — ^TIDES.
to the prevailing wind and swell, so that a vessel once in the harbor may be kept there for days.
DirectLoiui. — To find the entrance of Dislocation harbor, steer for the peaks, look oat for the Weather and Lee rocks, both several feet above water, the sea breaking violently on them, and when within 4 miles of the shore the opening will be seen distinctly from the masthead. In going in, avoid the two rocks at the entrance, and anchor in the inner- most part. The prevailing winds send in a swell; the x>lace is, however, quite secure, but only a small ship can get ont again without a fair wind. Four small vessels may lie in security. The bottom is very even, from 15 to 25 fathoms, fine white sand.
Judge and Apostles rocks are from 5 to 50 feet above the sea, bat many breakers near them indicate an extensive reef. The outer rock is 4 miles from the land.
Cape Pillar, the northwestern extremity of Tierra del Fuego, forms the southwestern point of entrance to Magellan strait. It is a ' bold cliff, and may be recognized from the westward by four peaks, the most soathem being the highest. The shore is steep-to, there being a depth of 60 fathoms at one mile from the pitch of the cape.
Ohurruca's description of it is:
<<Gape Pillar, though conspicuous for its height, is more so on accoant of the two peaks which rise from its summit, with an inclination to the NW.; the eastern and higher one belongs to a moan tain from which the cape springs, but the western one is a kind of tower, the base of which we saw on the shore west of the cape, and is of a form to which the name ^pillar' might reasonably be given. The extremity common to the strait and to the Pacific ocean is a large detached rock, 310 feet high, which shows the disposition of the strata, of which it and the oape are formed. That part of the cape which is washed by the waters of the strait presents a round hill, not very high, while the western part, exposed to the force of the Pacific ocean, exhibits large excava- tions, made by the sea in the rooks."
Tide& — ^At cape Horn it is high water, full and change, at 3h. 30m. ; at York Minster at 3h. ; and at cape Pillar at Ih. At the intermediate places the time gradaally changes between those limits; and the rise varies from 4 to 8 feet.
The tides on the coast between cape Horn and cape Pillar are regular as regards their rise and fall and time of high water; but not so with respect to the velocity and direction of the stream. Properly speak- ing, there appears to be no tidal stream but rather a constant current setting from cape Pillar to the soatheastward toward cape Horn. With the rising tide this current is accelerated, and with the falling tide retarded. Bat more observations are required.
Althoagh off cape Horn the current is strong between it and cape Pillar, it is by no means regular; sometimes, with a strong wind and flowing tide, it runs 2 knots or more, at others it is hardly worth notice. Daring the survey of this neighborhood by H. M. S. Beaglcy the carrent was never found to set to the westward at any time of tide or with
1
CURRENTS. 39
any wind. A strong current sets, at times, along the outer coast of the Hermite islands and through St. Francis bay, which divides Horn island from the rest of the group, varying from J knot to 2 knots, according to the wind and tide; and in the bay changes its direction with the change of tide.
In the channel between False Cape Horn and the Hermite islands a current is found setting into Nassau bay, and rather toward the Her- mite islands, at a rate of 2 knots, with the flood tide, and about J knot with the ebb. As this current sets rather toward West cape, a good berth must be given to it in passing.
CHAPTER II.
MAGELLAN STRAIT.
General remarks. — ^The distance throagh the strait, following the vanous channels, from cape Virgins to cape Pillar, is abont 310 miles.
When passing through, an entire change in the aspect of the coun- try, and most likely in the weather, will be experienced in its varions parts. From cape Virgins to cape Negro the land is comparatively low, covered with grass, but not a tree visible. The depth of water throughout this portion of 100 miles rarely exceeds 30 or 40 fathoms; there are many shoals and banks; the tidal currents are very rapid, with a rise of water in the eastern part of 44 feet, and in that of the western of not more than 7 feet; and with anchorages in almost all parts except in the narrows.
About cape Kegro wood commences and the land gradually becomes higher. The forest is denser and the mountains more lofty as cape Froward is approached, and these characteristics continue as far as the eastern part of Long reach. From this point, though mountains still border the strait, trees become smaller and smaller, until toward the western end of the strait the shores are absolutely bare and rocky, the ravines only showing a stunted though dense and humid vegetation.
The scenery from cape Froward westward is excessively grand and savage; glaciers descend nearly to the sea in some places and frequently crown the precipices, but it is but rarely that the voyager sees the land- scape to advantage.
South of Sandy point the shores are for the most part steep-to and little tide exists. The depth of the water is considerable, and the principal difficulties in navigation are all but continuous, strong west- erly winds accompanied by thick driving rain or snow and the scarcity of suitable anchorage at convenient distances for large steamers.
In clear weather, from the Second Narrows, the high mountains on Dawson island and mount San Felipe will be seen to the southward, forming an apparent barrier, blocking up the passage, and over the latter the summit of mount Tarn stands out in bold relief. The view presented by these mountains from abreast Sandy point is magnificent, and the spectator feels as if he were entering upon a totally new description of country from that passed in coming from cape Virgins.
Eastward of cape Froward the country is not only habitable, but
40
m NATIVES — ^WINDS. 41
comfortably so, whUe the comparatively level land is available for the pasturage of sheep and cattle, and for the cultivation of roots.
Westward of cape Froward the land is a mass of abrapt mountains, mostly of granite or slate, bare on the upper parts, but covered either with thick moss or dense beech forest on the lower slopes. Peat mosses saturated with moisture fill all hollows, and it may be truly said not a square yard of useful land is to be found. Natives. — ^Fuegians will rarely be met with eastward of cape
. Froward, and generally are not seen east of English reach.
^ The Patagonians have retired to the north, and the Onas tribe of
Fneglans who inhabit the main island of Tierra del Fuego are not canoe Indians, and are, moreover, very shy of showing themselves to any strangers who may land, though they are by no means timid in the ordinary sense of the word.
From cape Froward westward, and throughout the western channels to the gulf of Penas, the Indians appear to be of tlie same families, or at any rate to have friendly relations with each other on both sides of the strait. Indeed, the same faces have been recognized at port Gal- lant, Fortune bay, and Messier channel. Usually very few of them will be seen by a vessel passing -through the strait, but it is extraordi- nary how rapidly a hundred or more will get together if they see an opportunity for attacking boats, small vessels, or a wrecked party. How the rendezvous is known is a mystery, but fires are seen smoking all along the coast for miles, and out of every creek a canoe will be seen shooting toward the ^allying point.
There is none of the graceful gliding of the North American, or of the New Zealand, canoe in these miserable boats. Instead of being propelled by paddles, they are rowed by oars, rudely made of some pieces of board tied on to the end of a pole. The canoes also, instead of being hollowed out from the trunk of a large tree into a pretty shape, or made of bark, like those of Canada, are simply planks tied together with fiber, without the slightest regard to form. On the bottom in the middle is a small fire, and on each side there will be found six or eight men, women, and children, according to the size of the boat. They are generally almost naked, the women appearing to care less about cloth-
^ ing than the men, and either will sell you any seal skin they have for
a little biscuit or tobacco.
J There is one striking difference between these people and the Pata-
^ gonians; the Patagonians will drink as much rum or other firewater as
they can get, and when near a settlement are always more or less drunk. The western natives, called Fuegians, can not be induced to drink spirits, wine, or beer.
' Winds. — Westerly winds are most prevalent throughout the year,
and at the eastern end of the strait there is generally a strong breeze with heavy squalls between NW. and SW. A cloudy, overcast sky,
1 and probably rain, while the wind is northward of west, but when the
wind draws to the southward of west the weather usually becomes
42 MAGELLAN STRAIT.
clear and bright. The general course of the wind seems to commence at KB. or K., with misty weather or rain, shifting quickly to NW. and freshening while the barometer falls. It frequently remains two or three days between north and west, the weather clearing when it inclines to west, and when it draws to the northward mist and rain increasing and the barometer falling; with this wind a decided rise in the barometer is a sure sign of a shift to SW., which shift invariably takes place before the wind lulls for any time, or fine weather can be expected.
In summer the wind generally dies away from the SW., but after uncertain durations from that quarter, and before the N. or NW. wind begins again, an hour or so of light easterly or northeasterly wind will probably be experienced, showing that the wind has gone round the right way through the SE, quarter. As winter advances the SB. wind becomes more prevalent, and instead of dying away at SW. it will frequently vary between SSW. and SB. for two or three days. Sometimes it continues round to E. or NB., still blowing hard, and with wet, gloomy weather, not preceded by the interval of fine weather experienced on the coast before a gale comes on from the SB.
This shifting round is, however, like the easterly gales on the coast, of rare occurrence. As a rule the SW. wind is the stronger and the squalls heavier than from the NW., and no certain warning is given of this shift. Sometimes the barometer precedes it, but more generally accompanies it. Frequently heavy banks of white cumulus clouds, with hard edges, and appearing very rounded and solid, will be seen rising from the SW. or southward, but this is offcener the case when a SW. wind is about to spring up from a calm or light air than as indica- tive of a gale shifting to SW. or S.
The shifting of the wind from SW. to NW. is generally, if not always, accompanied by a falling barometer or its ceasing to rise, as it does during the whole time it blows from SW. The change of wind usually accompanies the change in the barometer, and the mercury merely ceasing to rise may indicate the subsidence of the S W. wind. If the wind shifts from N. to NE., the same bad weather may be expected that is mentioned as usual when it draws round from the southward to the east, and generally, when the wind veers, make preparations for bad weather, even though the barometer does not fall.
Northerly winds are often preceded by low flying clouds, with a thickly overcast sky, in which the upper clouds appear at a great height. Sometimes, but very rarely, with a light wind between NNE. and NNW., a few days of fine weather may occur; but this can not be predicted, as it occurs sometimes with a very high barometer, and at other times with a very low one.
Barometer. — As regards the usefulness of the barometrical readings in these waters, authorities differ. Captain King, E. N., arrived at the conclusion, after remaining nearly one year at port Famine and some
^ SEASONS. 43
time in the eastern part of the strait, that the barometer can not be considered so unfailing a guide as in other latitudes, and that <^ although the rise and fall do sometimes precede the change, yet it more frequently accompanies it." He also states <^that after a fall of barometer with NW. or northerly winds, a SW. gale may be expected when it ceases to fall; still it frequently falls without this change." In the month of JunCy at port Famine, his barometer fell to 28.17 inches, and afterwards gradually rose to 30.60 inches, which was followed by cold weather, in which the thermometer stood at 12^ F.
Captain Wharton remarks that a very low barometer is frequently followed by a heary fall of snow. Lieutenant-Commander Caldwell, U. 8. S. Pinta^ at port Grappler, in March, 1884, says:
^<We had fine weather, although the barometer fell to 29.29 inches. From the new snow on the mountains in the morning I think there must have been a westerly gale which did not reach us." The same of&cer in his report says: "I believe the* barometer is of little or no use; its changes accompany the weather as a rule, and a change of a few miles in position seems to affect its height; besides, with a given height of barometer one may have either good or bad weather; for example, at port Gregory we had calm, fine weather, barometer 29.47; and again, not far away (Sandy point), a NW. wind, force 6 to 8, barometer 29.58. March 14, at port Bueno, wind NW., force 3 to 6, barometer 29.33, and next day at Molyneux sound, wind ifrom the NW. with a force of 7 to 11, barometer was 29.45. On March 16, same place, wind W!N^ W., force 1, barometer registered 29.32, followed by southerly winds and calmd. At port Grappler on March 17 it was calm, with the barometer at 29.79, and the next day at English Narrows the barometer was 29.78 and wind jfrom WN W. with a force of 5 to 6. No doubt the conforma- tions of the land produce local areas of high and low pressure. The only case where I can certainly say that the barometer gave warning of a shift was in the gulf of Penas."
Seasons.' — The summer season is far preferable for making the pas- sage thj^ough the strait in going either way. The strongest winds are experienced during the equinoctial months, though the heaviest gales do not occur at the equinoxes. Toward the middle of May the weather
t» becomes colder, and the snow, which has been covering the summits of
the hills perhaps for some time, will be seen to advance down the slopes; it, however, varies very much. The coldest weather is in June, July, and August. A mean of six years' observations gives June as the coldest month four times, July once, and August once. Even in these winter months, though there are occasional cold days, the gen- eral temperature at Sandy point for several years is about 36^ F. December, January, and February are the warmest; the days are then long, and the sun, when out, has some power, the mean temperature for several years being 54^.
^ Eastward of Sandy point the weather on shore is very fine, though
44 MAGELliAK STRAIT.
rather windy, daring summer; the temperature is pleasant, the air bracing and healthy. Between Bandy i)oint and caj^e Froward the prevailing weather is clear and bright, with strong winds between N W. and SW., heavy rain occurring only with the wind north of N W., or the occasional easterly gale.
Westward of cape Froward the weather is undeniably very bad, and it is probable that no portion of the globe frequented by man experiences, the whole year round, worse weather, Winter and sum- mer alike, rain, snow, hail, and wind are absent only for very brief periods. The total rainfall is doubtless greater in some other places, but it is confined to certain seasons, whereas in these regions it is impar- tially distributed throughout the year, and there is absolutely no fine season.
The change in the weather on passing cape Froward is generally very striking.
The remarks about the weather which deal with the outer regions of Tierra del Fuego apply very closely to what may be expected in the strait west of cape Froward, but the narrowness of the channel and height of the mountains give local influence great force, and it is impossible to follow the regular changes in the direction of the wind, which Captains King and Fitz-Roy sx>eak of, in the open sea.
Kelp. — Wherever kelp is seen, the bottom is generally sure to be more than usually uneven and foul, with no mud. Keep a good look- out for " fixed kelp,'' the weed which grows on every rock that is cov- ered by the sea, and not very far below its surface. Lying ux>on the water the upper leaves and stalks show almost as well as a buoy. Long stems with leaves lying regularly along the surface are usually attached to rocky places or else to large stones. In passing to wind- ward of patches or beds of kelp (that side from which the weed streams away with the current), give the place a wide berth, because the part which shows is not over the rocks, but to one side of them. Where the current is very strong, the kelp is quite run under and kept down out of sight, and can no longer be depended on as a warning. When a clear 8i)ot is seen in the middle of a thick bed of kelp, one may be sure to find there the least water. ^' Drift kelp,'' or that which is floating, may generally be known by its irregular, huddled look. Parallel ridges of kelp have usually deep water between them.
Fogs are of rare occurrence and of short duration in the eastern part of the strait, though sometimes they set in thick for a few hours without any warning during calm weather. There are instances of dense fogs lasting two or three days at Sandy point in the winter sea- son. Thick, rainy weather is the ordinary condition of the weather in the western part.
Squalls blow with great force and suddenness all over the strait, making it unadvisable to set light sails, even when the weather seems most promising. No boat should be sent any distance from the vessel
■» TIDES AND TIDAL STREAMS. 45
in any part of the strait without two or three days' provisions on board, and if in the eastern pai't, water aud firewood.
Lightning and thunder are very rare except in very bad weather, when violent squalls come from the S. and SW. These storms are ren- dered more formidable by snow and hail of a large size.
Refuge stations. — The beacons on Dungeuess, Direction hill, Baxa point, and Sandy point are so constructed as to serve as refuges for shipwrecked persons; they afford shelter; closed by sliding doors.
^ Tides and tidal streams. — The direction in which the tidal stream
is setting is of the greatest importance when navigating the eastern part of the Magellan strait. Before entering upon the direction and strength of the stream, it is well to state that, with very slight local vari- ations in harbors, there are two regular tides in the twenty-four hours. The charts show the strength of the stream at ordinary springs and its direction at the different anchorages, and the seaman must make the same allowance for it as he would in any other tideway. In pass- ing through the strait from the eastward, it should always be borne in mind that the time of high and low water gets later as the undulation proceeds westward, until Eoyal road is reached; and the consequence is that the west-going stream changes later, a circumstance which con- siderably facilitates the navigation from east to west, and makes it easy for a vessel starting from Possession bay, or even Dungeness, in time to catch the first of the west-going stream in the First narrows to get to Boyal road or Sandy point in a day, unless the wind is strong against her. This refers to nine months of the year.
During the depth of winter (June, July, and August), when there is little more than eight hours daylight, this would be difficult without weighing, and very likely coming to, in the dark. The seaman acquainted with the navigation need not, however, hesitate to do this. Another very important point is that the west-going and east-going streams continue running in the channel for three hours after high and low water, respectively, by the shore, that is, the west-going stream begins three hours before high water and continues running until three hours after high water. There are some exceptions to this rule, as mentioned in Lomas and Gregory bays, close round St. Catherine point,
S and at Spiteful anchorage. The wind in the wide part outside and
between the Narrows seems also to have some influence, especially at neap tides, but for practical purposes three hours may be taken.
To the northward of cape Virgins the streams set WW. and SB. along the coast; the same will be found on the outer edge and outside the Sarmiento bank. This current sweeps up along the eastern shore of Tierra del Fuego to the south point of Sarmiento bank, where it divides, one part continuing on uj) the coast and the other entering the strait. In the same way the stream of the ebb in coming out of the
I strait is met and turned to the southward by the tidal stream sweep-
^ ing down the coast and across the entrance in the same direction.
46 ICAOELLAN STRAIT.
The navigator mast not be deceived by this, for it makes the stream of the flood on the north end of the bank api)ear to ran out of the stnut, while toward the south end it varies with the time of the tide.
Thus it will be seen that in the vicinity of cape Virgins and Espirita Santo it is high water, full and change, between 8h. 30m. andOh. a. m., while the west-going stream is still running into the strait and to the northward past cape Virgins. The main stream continues running westward at full and change until near noon, though the water is fiEdl- ing everywhere. About noon the direction of the stream changes (there being no appreciable slack water in the channel), and until near 3h. p. m. the water continues falling, while the stream of tide is run- ning to the eastward until after 6 o'clock.
Thus it is easy to deduce the best time for entering the strait, or quitting Bungeness or Possession bay, the object being to get well up toward the ^N^arrows on the last of the east-going stream, so as to get the ftiU force of the west-going stream through the Narrows as soon as it makes; for there, as has been said, the wind, if from the westward, will very likely freshen. Care must be taken, however, to ascertain the vessel's position constantly, as the east-going stream sets toward the Orange bank, as it is approached. A full-powered vessel will have no difficulty in stemming the stream only, either east or west of the Nar- rows, though in strong westerly winds even such a vessel had better await the turn at Dungeness, as far as which the east-going stream through the strait tide will be the fair one in coming from the northward. A vessel with auxiliary steam power must, of course, be guided by cir- cumstances. Through both Narrows the stream runs straight, but at each entrance the volume of water which has been pent up between such narrow walls naturally seeks to spread itself out, and consequently causes a strong set toward the banks on either side of the end toward which the stream is running, and a corresponding indraft at the other end. Thus, a vessel, on opening either Narrows, will find herself set in to the northward or southward, according as she has come along the north or south side of the Narrows. If two vessels go westward, one along the north and the other the south side of the First Narrows, as they come to Baxa and Barranca points, one will find herself set on to the Satellite patch, and the other on to the shoal of Baxa point.
This is, of course, felt much more in the First Narrows, where the stream runs from 5 to 8 knots during springs, with no slack water, than in the Second Narrows, where the stream runs from 3 to 6 knots during springs, and very little set will be found from Gracia point into Eoyal road. The navigator must not be alarmed by the strong tide ripplings, which will be seen in many places where no danger exists, especially at the west end of the First Narrows, off cape St. Vincent, in Lee bay, between Elizabeth and Magdalena islands, and on both sides of the Walker shoal. Though this affects the surface of the water, and a vessel upon it, the mass of water seems to keep the main
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GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 47
channel well scoured out, making the outer edges of the banks, or those on the sides of the channel, steep-to, and seeming to indicate that, though the precise depth of water on the shoalest parts of the banks may vary, their general position and direction will not. This does not refer to deep harbors or bays where eddies may exist or spits be formed by rivers.
General directions. — The passage is safe for steamers, but vigilance and caution are necessary.
The best authorities say that it is not advisable for a square-rigged vessel of any size to attempt the passage from east to west with sail only, even should she be so fortunate as to make the strait and pass through both Narrows with an easterly wind, for it is highly improbable that it would last through the whole strait, and she would certainly find herself beating through channels varying in width from 10 to 2 miles, in thick, wet weather, with fhrious williwaws, so variable in their direction as to prevent making a single straight course, and with most of the harbors very difficult both of ingress and egress.
During the summer months, from November to May, a sailing vessel might pass through from west to east with almost the certainty of a fair wind all the way, though nothing but smooth water would be gained by it.
For a vessel with full or auxiliary steam power the difBculties and dangers in navigating the strait either way are the same that are expe- rienced in narrow channels and close harbors of the same latitude else- where. Here they are more marked by the prevalence of bad weather and the generally foul and rocky nature of the anchorages. It is prob- able that at whatever season of the year a vessel may make the pas- sage at least one gale of wind will be encountered.
During the summer mouths a vessel with moderate steam x)ower should not, under ordinary circumstances, be more than five days making the distance between cape Yirgins and cape Pillar, even if compelled to anchor every night.
The difference in the duration of daylight in summer and winter nat- urally forms an important consideration in this navigation. The time of full moon is the best for making the strait, as the tide serves at that time for passing the Narrows.
In winter a vessel should leave Sandy point some hours before day- light to insure making Fortescue bay the same evening. It will be well to have daylight before getting as far as Georgia reef.
Note. — ^The following directions should be used with U. S. Hydro- graphic Oflace charts Nos. 443, 444, and 445 j
Directions : Eastern entrance to cape Froward. — Before enter- ing the strait, the tides should be carefully considered. An anchor might be dropped, if necessary, to wait for the tide on Sarmiento bank, but it is quite exposed, and the holding ground indifferent. It would, if possible, be much better to get under Dungeness spit. The best
48 MAGELLAN 8TBAIT.
route to the strait is to pass over Sarmiento bank, which can be done with safety between half* flood and half ebb.
A vessel bound westward should quit either of the above anchorages as soon as x>ossible after the strength of the SW. wind is over, and reach Possession bay, Spiteful, or Plumper anchorages. This may be effected by a steamer of ordinary speed against the tide, for westerly winds will generally be found to freshen as the west-going stream com mences. Westerly winds usually fall considerably about sunset, and by being ready to take advantage of this, a vessel may frequently get through the First Narrows before dark. In the event of fog or thick, rainy weather, an anchor may be dropped anywhere between Dunge- ness and Possession bay, or, should it be necessary, to wait the change of the stream before entering the First Narrows,
From a position about one mile south of Dungeness, a course should be shaped about N. 81o W. (S. 79° W. mag.) for 30 miles, making due allowance for tidal influences, to lead nearly 2 miles clear of a detaohed 2-fathom patch, the northernmost of the dangers off Great Orange bank; and when cape Orange bears 8. 31^ W. (S. ll^ W. mag.), or mount Aymond N. 36° W. (N. 56^ W. mag.), the course may be altered to S. 540 W. (S. 349 W. mag.), which will lead about midway between that part of Great Orange bank off Anegada point and Direction bank on the western shore.
In the above route from off Dungeness a bearing of Direction hill will ensure keeping clear of Great Orange bank, and Sutlej hill open south of Direction hill, S. 800 W. (8. 65o W. mag.), leads a little over one mile south of Narrow bank; but it is to be remembered that in a region of proverbially bad weather, such intricate navigation, and strong tidal streams, increased caution is necessary, and determining a vessel's position frequently becomes an absolute necessity.
Delgada point and Direction hill in line bearing N. I60 E. (N. 5^ W. mag.), also mount Aymond and Direction hill in line bearing N. 30 B. (N. 170 W. mag.), will be good marks for checking the position in run- ning through the First Narrows. Nuiiez head will be recognized as a triangular cliff 95 feet high.
Both shores of the First Narrows are steep-to, but it is better to keep on the north side, as Anegada point dries out a long way. From a position midway between Nuiiez head and Meudes x)oint, a 8. 37^ W. (8. 170 W. mag.) course should be steered for 10 miles, then with Dixon hill astern on a N. 7Go E. (N. 56° E.mag.) bearing steer 8. 76o W. (8. 560 W. mag.), which will lead to the southward of both Triton and Tribune banks and up to the 8econd Narrows. If it be blowing strong from the NTN^., or if intending to anchor in Gregory bay, 8. 82^ W. (8. 620 W. mag.) will be the better course. The Cone on the north side of the 8econd Narrows bearing 8. 880 W. (8. 68^ W. mag.), and well open south of cape Gregory, leads south of Tribune bank.
It is assumed that the southern passage between the Narrows is
r
L
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 49
\
taken* The northern passage should never be used unless when seek* ing anchorage before reaching Gregory bay, or coming from the west- ward and desirous of anchoring as near the First Narrows as possible.
It may be remarked that a vessel having got into the First N'arrows on the last of a fair tide, must not be deceived in the strength of the opposing stream by being able to make good way. With ordinary power she may easily steam against the tide by keeping close in shore while actually in the N'arrows, and it is not till she gets into the entrance and almost through that she will meet with the full force, which requires a very powerful vessel to stem at springs, unless aided by a fair wind.
Proceeding through the Second narrows after having passed Half- way shoal, when the Cone will bear N. 3° W. (N. 23^ W. mag.), a vessel should incline to the north shore to avoid being swept into Lee bay by the west-going stream, or to get out of the strength of the east-going stream, both of which make with great strength off cape St. Yincent. A vessel navigating the south side with a fair tide should steer from San Isidro point to Gracia point, easing away gradually for Elizabeth island, as she passes Sweepstakes foreland, and when cape St. Vincent bears S. 20° W. (S. mag.), a course may be steered either for the Queen channel, the passage through Royal road, or the New channel, east- ward of Santa Marta and Santa Magdalena islands.
Large vessels should use either Queen or New channel. Vessels drawing over 18 feet should not attempt the passage through Eoyal road.
Although New channel is broader and deeper than Queen channel, it is not so frequently used by steamers, and except for a sailing vessel
working through, or when blowing so hard from the SW. as to neces- sitate keeping fore and afb canvas on a steamer. Queen channel is decidedly to be preferred.
If intending to pass through Queen channel, from a mid-channel position in the western part of the Second Narrows, with cape St. Vincent bearing S. 20^ W. (S. mag.), steer for the NW. extreme of Elizabeth island, which shows as a bluff, observing that Sylvester point (a low shingle point), the NE. extreme of the island, in line with Alfred point bearing S. 34^ W. (S. 14^ W. mag.), leads westward of the 2.fathom patch lying N. 37^ E. (N. 17o E. mag.), distant 2^ miles from Santa Marta island, and when the east extreme of Santa Marta island is in line with the west extreme of Santa Magdalena island^ bearing S. 3^ W. (S. 17o E. mag.), steer S. 25° W. (S. 6o W. mag.), pass, ing Sylvester point at J mUe distant, until cape St. Vincent is just open east of Santa Marta island, bearing N. 48^ E. (N. 28^ E. mag.), keep the latter mark ou astern until the south extreme of Santa Magdalena island bears S. 75° E. (N. 85° B. mag.), when alter course to S. 25^ W. (S. 50 W. mag.), taking care to keep Sylvester point well open of Alfred point, until cape Porpesse bears N. 42° W. (N. 62o W. mag.), when all dangers will be passed^ and a course can be shaped for Sandy point
1943— No. 89 4
50 MAGELLAN STBATT.
The streams set up and down this channel, and, with the land so closei thick weather need not impede the progress of a ship ; the only possible danger is that of keeping away for the nortli end of Elizab^h island too soon, by which a vessel is likely to be set on the shoal extending northward from Santa Marta island.
If bound through New channel, from a x)osition midway between cape St. Vincent and Gracia point, a S. 3^ E. (S. 23^ E. mag.) course leads straight through New channel, which in no part is less than 3 miles wide. Bear in mind that cape St. Vincent in line with the Cone bearing N. 12° (S. 8° W. mag.) leads to the westwsurd of New bank and east of the shoal ground off Santa Magdalena island. The objections to this passage are the tides, which for 2 or 3 miles south- ward of cape St. Vincent run east and west directly across the course, rendering a vessel liable to be set either on to New bank or the shoal already mentioned as extending from Santa Marta island* The strength of the stream here is also much greater than would be expected from the expanse of water, and reaches fully 6 knots at springs, even when not aided by the wind.
As a vessel proceeds, the west-going stream inclines more and more southward till when approaching the foul ground, which is marked by kelp off Santa Magdalena island, it will be found setting SW., or toward the danger. Though Santa Marta and Santa Magdalena islands and the hills on Elizabeth island will generally be visible, yet it may be difficult to determine the ship's position in thick weather. The dangers on the outer edge of the bank off* Santa Marta and Santa Magdalena islands render it unadvisable for a vessel of any size to pass between the islands, or between them and the Walker shoal.
In all this navigation the method of ascertainiug the vessel's posi- tion by sextant angles, with a station pointer or piece of tracing paper, is recommended^ the method is not only more accurate but quicker when a person becomes accustomed to employ it. ^ In the channel through Eoyal road and Pelican passage there are several shoals. Its only use is for a vessel intending to anchor in Boyal road and wishing to get as far on as possible before anchoring, so as not to lose ground in the morning.
After passing through either of the above channels, the western Bhores of Broad and Famine reaches should be kept aboard. From abreast Sandy point a S. 3^ W. (S. 17^ E. mag.) course will lead down clear of Georgia reef until cape San Isidro is seen, east of St. Anna pointy when a vessel may steer along the land at a convenient distance to cape Froward.
As a rule, between Sandy point and cape San Isidro the wind will be off the land, more or less abeam, often in heavy squalls but with clear sky. As the latter is approached and the vessel gets under the high land that commences at mount Tarn a zone of calm will often be passed through.
GENERAL DIBECTIONS. 61
As cape Froward is approached, sooner or later, as the wind is far to the south or not, strong winds will be met which nearly always blow down Froward reach, and from thence onward head winds must be expected generally right down the line of reach, sometimes far enough to the south to set fore and aft sails.
At cape Froward the squalls are exceptionally heavy; the seaman will frequently find a change of weather to heavy rain or snow, and may expect that the shores will often be invisible.
It is seldom, however, that there are not occasional clearings which enable the navigator to fix his position.
SAILING VESSELS.
Dungeness to Laredo bay. — The following directions are only for fore-and-aft rigged sailing vessels for reaching Sandy point from the eastern entrance of the strait:
Working up from Dungeness, beat along the north shore with west- erly or northwesterly winds. By keepiug on the north side until well to the westward of cape Possession, the wind will be a leading one for the First iN'arrows; and if it should shift to the SW., Schooner anchorage will be close at hand, where a vessel will be quite safe and out of the strength of the tide. With a SW. wind stand well over to the Lomas bank, and then with a rising tide a good stretch can be made to Plumper anchorage, or, if to windward of that place, another tack will fetch Schooner anchorage.
The first slant of wind, or calm with the tide, should be taken ad- vantage of to clear the Karrows, after which the passage is compara- tively easy* Between the N^arrows, Satellite patch and Triton bank are the only dangers which would bring a small vessel up, and for this it is only necessary to take care not to bring Gregory shoulder to bear southward of F. 81o W. (8. 79° W. mag.), or the summit of cape Greg- ory southward of S. 88o W. (8. 68° W. mag.), when in the neighbor- hood, or White Gap peak, if visible, bears between 8. 26^ E. (8. 45° E. mag.) and 8. 30 E. (8. 50^ E. mag.).
In the Second Narrows, when standing to the northward, do not pass inside a line joining cape Gregory and Garcia point, and with a SW. wind and flood tide cape St. Vincent should not be passed within 2 miles, although it is intended to pass through the 'New channel.
To pass through the Queen channel, a good stretch must be made into Eoyal road until the NE. point of Elizabeth island bears about 8. 20O W. (S. mag.), when stand round it.
With a light or failing wind, it is absolutely necessary to keep over toward the north shore of the Second Narrows as the western end is neared, and rather anchor in Eoyal road, or even in the edge of the bank off Gracia point, than to try to pass Santa Marta island without a commanding breeze.
After passing the north end of Elizabeth island, Santa Marta should
52 MAGELLAK STRAIT.
not be opened to the northward of cape St. Vincent until past Hawk clifif. An anchor may be dropped in the bight between Sylvester point and Hawk clifif to hold i)08ition. If bound to Laredo bay, cape Negro should be rounded as close as prudence admits.
Sandy point eastward. — From Sandy point a vessel should keep well out before hauling along the coast to avoid the shoal water of the spit, and if intending to anchor in Laredo bay, a good berth should be given its southern point. Bear iu mind that the change in the time of tide and turn of stream, which assists the west-bound ship, acts against one east bound, though in some measure compensated for by the prevalence of westerly winds. It will sometimes be found advantageous to leave Sandy point iu the afternoon or evening and anchor for the night iu Laredo bay, so as to be ready to take advantage of the first of the east-going stream in the morning. This will, of course, depend on the age of the moon. At Elizabeth island it is high water, full and change, soon after 9h. 30m. a. m., and consequently the east-going stream would not commence running until Oh. 30m. During the summer mouths it is daylight between 2h. and 3h. a. m., and therefore a vessel leaving Laredo bay at daylight would have plenty of time to get to Gregory bay, or farther with a fair wind, before the turn of the tide at Gh. a. m., as there is little difference of time between Elizabeth island and Gregory bay. She can then anchor during the west-going stream, and, weighing with the commencement of the east-going stream, which will begin to run at noon on the same day in the First ITarrows, will get to Dungeness or out to sea that night. Even in the short days, much may be done by a judicious consideration of these all-important tides, but the seaman must be guided by the age of the moon when on the spot. With a strong, fair wind, a vessel may, to a certain extent, defy the tides, but it is always better, if possible, to take advantage of them. After leaving Laredo bay and proceeding by Queen channel, give cape Porpesse a wide berth, and do not bring cape Thorax to bear westward of N. 59° W. (K 790 W. mag.) until Alfred point bears N. 28o E. (N. 80 E. mag.), when steer for the point on that bearing. When the south extreme of Santa Magdalena island bears S. 73° E. (N. 87° E. mag.), cape St. Vin- cent should be seen just open east of Santa Marta island; keep these marks on until the south extreme of Santa Magdalena island bears S. 390 E. (S. 590 E. mag.), when alter course to pass 800 yards east of Sylvester point, whence steer for Gracia point, edging away for the Narrows as Marta bank is passed and cape St. Vincent bears N. 79^ E. (N. 590 E. mag.).
Then steer for the Narrows; a course about N. 59^ E. (N. 39° E. mag. leads through. When abreast of cape Gregory, a vessel intend- ing to anchor in Gregory or St. Jago bays should steer northward, and when the north extremity of the sandy land of the cape is in line with the western extremity of the high table land (Gregory shoulder), the
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 53
vessel will be near the anchorage, but the nummock shoald be well open to the northward of the cape, over the grassy valley, before anchoring. Prom this position Yalle point and the hillocks near it will be dis- tinctly visible, and the vessel can be kept for the anchorage under it or edged away to pass northward of the banks.
A vessel, however, bound direct for the First Narrows, from 1^ miles, south of cape Gregory, should steer N. 70° E. (N. 56° E. mag.), which will lead southward of Tribune and Triton banks. Advancing east- ward, Sutlej and Dixon hills will be the first land seen, and in clear weather mount Aymond will also appear a little to the eastward of the I former. The land forming the entrance of the Narrows, being low, will
not be perceived until some time after Dixon hill and others on the Fuegian side, which appear as islands; but as it is closed, the summit of Barranca point and Nunez head on the north side and Mendez point on the south will be seen.
When Sutlej hill bears N. 3° W. (N. 23° W. mag.), or Barranca cliflF N. 20O E. (N. mag.), and Dixon hill East (N. 70^ E. mag.), the ship will be in mid-channel 4^ miles from Barranca point, and thence a N. 46^ E. (N. 250 E. mag.) course will lead straight through the First Nar- rows. Gare must be taken to keep in mid-channel till Barranca point bears N. 59o W. (N. 79^ W. mag.), as theebb stream sets rather toward Satellite patch, if a vessel gets to the westward. Nuiiez head shows as a triangular cliff, and is a good mark. As Nunez head is approached Direction hill and the peak of cape Orange will appear, and when abreast of them cape Possession will be seen as an island on the star- board bow.
When Direction hill bears N. 69° W. (N. 79° W. mag.), and cape Granges. 6^ E. (S. 25^ E. mag.), mount Aymond, if visible, bearing N. 140 W. (N. 340 W. mag.), steer N. 69° E. (N. 49° E. mag.) for cape Pos- session for 9 J miles, until mount Aymond bears N. 48° W. (N. 68^ W. mag.) when a S. 8I0 E. (N. 79^ E. mag.) course clears the strait. Should it be intended to anchor in Possession bay, a N. 48^ E. (N. 28^ E. mag.) course maybe steered from the Narrows, until mount Aymond bears N. 48° W. (N. 68° W. mag.), when steer into the bay, observing ! to keep Daniel point open of cape Possession until the moment of doing
W so. The same regard must be had to the tides in crossing Sarmiento
bank as when entering the strait.
Directions continned — Cape Froward westward. — From cape Froward westward through the strait there is no necessity to wait for the turn of the tidal stream, although there are' i)laces, as Crooked reach, where the current will materially affect the speed of a vessel.
All the coast from cape San Isidro onward on the mainland side as far as Crooked reach is steep- to and should be kept aboard with an easterly tidal current by low-powered vessels, as there is an eddy cur- rent well inshore while east of cape Holland. From cape Gallant keep in mid-stream as far as cape Crosstide, which must be kept aboard to
54 MAGELLAN STRAIT.
avoid Anson rock, but exercise great care hereabonts on aooonnt of the strong eddies. It is in this part of the channel that the tidal currents are strong, especially the ebb stream, which reaches a yelocity of S} knots an honr.
The tides meet at cape Grosstide. East of this cape the currents obey the same law as in the eastern part of the strait, bnt west of the cape and throughout Long reach the streams tnrn abont the time of high and low water. Consequently, an hour before high water say, the streams are meeting one another, while an hour after high water the tide is running up through York road into Jerome channel on the east side at the same time that from cape Jerome it is ebbing away to the west of Borja bay.
For three hours after low water the flood coming from the west will add its force to the ebb stream turning out of Jerome channel and down English reach.
Anson rock can be cleared by keeping the notch on G«pe Quod open south of Big Borja island, and Crooked rock by keeping over toward El Morion until Beware island opens off cape Quod, after which take mid-channel.
Up Long reach steer a mid-channel course. The easterly current seldom runs more than IJ knots up to the vicinity of cape Cooper Key, where it is stronger on the flood. There is generally an easterly set in this part of the strait, due to the wind.
After passing Shelter island a lee may often be had as far as cape Cooper Key by keeping on the north shore, where it is quite free from dangers. From the last-named cape up to cape Monday the same will be found by keeping on the south shore, there being no dangers on that side 300 yards from the outer points and islets.
If clear, Tamar island will be visible; abreast of Arathoon bay it will appear as an island with two peaks. Steering a mid-channel course, cape Providence will open when passing Shelter island; Conway knob on Cordova and cape Upright on the south shore will appear round cape Monday when off* Canoe inlet.
A head sea will often be met about cape Monday, and there it ought to be decided whether there is time to reach port Tamar in case it gets worse, as there is no way of getting out of it, except by turning into the Cripples and Sylvia channels.
A small vessel will often find this the best plan, though if she can make good headway in the main strait, it will be better of course to remain in it. These channels, though narrow in parts, present no diffi- culty, as a mid-channel course is easy to keep. The only dangers are the rocky patches between Providence island and the Tamar peninsula, in very thick weather.
To pass through the Cripples channel, edge round the west end of Santa Anna island and steer N. 23° W. (K. 45o W. mag.).
Kichardson island will be soon made out, standing out from the land
DIRECTIONS — ^ANCHORAGE. 65
and showing under the north end of Providence island, and as the ship comes np to it the shore of Munos Oamera peninsula must be closed about Thomas bay until Webb point is in line with the north hill of Eichardson island, which leads clear of the kelp patches on the port hand. When abreast of the first islets south of Richardson island, keep mid-channel. (See page 105.)
As Cummins point is passed haul up N. 12° W. (N. 34^ W. mag.) for the channel between Vince and Pike islands. The sharp Passage island will be seen through this channel.
The west point of Vince island passed, steer N. ll^ B. (K. ll^ W. mag.), to leave Entrance island on the port hand.
If intending to keep the main strait, but induced to give it up on arrival off cape Providence, course can be made for Sylvia channel, north of the Maze islands.
Brown point, in line with York hill, will lead east of Providence bank until cape Providence bears N. 68^ W. (W. mag.), when course can be altered as requisite to round Brown , point, and so on to Sylvia channel.
Sylvia channel requires no special directions; a mid-channel course is easily kept. Directions for the anchorage will be found on page 108.
Caution. — When proceeding to the Pacific, vessels should not attempt to clear the strait in one day from Fortescue bay, except full- powered steamers. Endeavor to reach Playa Parda or port Tamar before dark, so as to be ready for an early start on the following morn- ing, and get a good of^ng during the day. As the westerly gales come on suddenly, it is impossible to run back and find an anchorage during a dark night.
Remarks on the anchorage in the strait west of cape Froward. — As a rule the anchorage space is limited and the bottom is either v^y uneven, composed of masses of rocks with mud in the intervals between, or else consist of small stones and gravel. The former type prevails. The heavy williwaws cause the vessel to shear about a great deal, and the consequent grinding and jerking of the cable among the rocks is in some cases quite startling.
Over such uneven bottom it is very difficult to pick a good berth, but whenever possible avoid having a ridge between the anchor and the vessel, for then the surging will be at a maximum. Still, the anchors should always be placed in the deepest water, as there mud is usually to be found.
Many anchors are broken while in use in these anchorages either from heavy jerks when the arm has caught in a crevice, or when let go by striking crown down on the hard rocks. The latter risk may be avoided by easing the anchor down to the bottom.
When williwaws begin, pay out plenty of cable if the harbor space admits of it.
It is very astonishing how the wind gets into these anchorages, so
56 ICAGELLAN STRAIT.
perfectly landlocked do they appear^ and with the wind from many points a vessel will lie quiet in them^ while the squalls pass overhead. Each harbor, however, has some weak point, as a gully, or a cliff from which the wind is deflected^ and the same harbor which one navigator may report as having afforded him x>6rfect shelter in a gale another may find, from the wind being a few points different in direction, a per- fect pandemonium of squalls and columns of spray. It requires a con- siderable experience of an anchorage before a trustworthy opinion of its value can be formed; it must be proved with strong winds from all points.
The more open anchorages, and apparently the least protected to windward, often prove the best, as far as tbe squalls are concerned.
The best anchorages for large vessels are at Fortescue bay, Borja bay, Field anchorage, and port Tamar.
EASTERN ENTRANCE TO FIRST NARROWS— NORTH SHORE.
(H. O. Chart No. 443.)
Caution. — The eastern entrance to Magellan strait should be ap- proached with great care. The velocity of the tidal streams, the vari- ability of their direction off cape Virgins, and the absence of good marks to fix the ship's position make the determination of position and the steering along an intended track very uncertain. Several reports have been made of vessels striking outside the limits of the dangers charted eastward of cape Virgins, but there is no evidence to show where they struck, and as the accidents occurred at night and no bear- ings are given, it seems probable that they all touched on the shoals extending from cape Virgins.
Landmarks. — ^The hills on the south shore are not well defined, with the exception of cape Orange and those in its immediate vicinity, the others visible from the channel being 10 miles inland, and not, as they appear, near the water. From the southern side of the channel, also, it is difficult to distinguish the good marks on the north shore, such as cape Possession, Direction hills, or mounts Dinero and Aymond, which are useful for obtaining a ve^sePs position when in the fairway or on the northern side of it.
Sarmiento bank does not extend nor change, the general outline of its outer edge being kept in that position, following the general line of the coast from the northward, by the rapid current which sweeps along it. The ridge of the bank is shingle, while inside of it is coarse sand and gravel mixed. As a rule the shoaler the water the coarser the bottom. Coming from the eastward, or in a large vessel, it will be better to cross this bank well to the southward of Nassau rock, and the time of tide between half-fiood and half-ebb currents.
If the wind is too strong for entering, or for any other reason it is not advisable to do so, the best anchorage is off Condor cliff in 8 fathoms, about 2 miles north of cape Virgins, with the cape bearing S. 20° W. (S. mag.) and the cliff S. 88o W. (S. 68° W. mag.).
NASSAU ROCK — ^DUNGENESS. 57
Rock reported. — Jane 30, 1890, the German steamer Cleopatra was lost on a rock off cape Virgins, eastern entrance to Magellan strait, on which the French steamer Ville de Strasbourg and, presumably, the English steamer Magellan had previously struck.
According to the dat^ furnished by the captains of the Cleopatra and Ville de Strasbourg^ this danger lies about 7 miles northeastward from cape Virgins, in (approximately) latitude 52^ 16' 30" S., longitude 680 12' W.
Nassau rock, a small pinnacle with 3 feet over it at low-water springs, lies S. 53^ E. (S. 73^ E. mag.), 3J miles from cape Virgins. There is a little kelp on the rock, but not enough to mark it, and except in gales the sea does not break until nearly low water. At extraordinary low spring tides Nassau rock is dry.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, on Sarmiento bank, 8 miles SE. of cape Virgins, at 8h. 10m.; springs rise from 36 to 42 feet.
Cape Virgins, the north point of the eastern entrance of Magellan strait, is 135 feet high, and is the best point to make, and usually the
I first land seen when approaching the strait from the eastward. On it
i there are several houses. In clear weather the cape is visible from a
distance of 20 to 25 miles, and when made from the northward, between the bearings of south and west, will appear as an extreme of land. Bungeness spit, 5 miles SW. of cape Virgins, will not be visible until
I much nearer. When cape Virgins bears westward of N. 87^ W. (8.
780 W. mag.), mount Dinero, 8 miles farther west, will show as a small
! nipple, opening clear of it.
Capes Virgins and Espiritu Santo have certain points of resemblance, both being marked with white cliffs forming the seaward termination of a range of moderate-sized hills extending into the interior ; both have low shingle points connected with them.
All over this eastern portion of the strait the most remarkable difference takes place in the appearance of the land according to the light in which it is seen. Virgin reef, which at half tide is scarcely perceptible, as then the tidal
; stream is slack, dries J mile ESE. from cape Virgins. There are 4 or 5
fathoms close outside the reef, but a vessel should not pass near, as
fan the height of the cape makes it difficult to judge the distance from
shore.
Dungeness is a low spit, extending 3^ miles from the foot of the low range of hills uniting cape Virgins with mount Dinero. The beach on both sides of the ness is of shingle; and above high- water mark the spit is covered with long coarse grass and a thick undergrowth of scrub, forming a kind of network with the long kelp, which is blown up by the heavy gales and dried in the summer sun. Prom the quan- tity of this weed which covers the spit, as well as from the large i)ieces of wreck found all over it, sometimes more than a mile from either
^ bea<)h, it seems evident that at times in easterly gales the sea must
break over its whole extent.
58 MAGELLAN STRAIT — ^EASTERN ENTRANCE.
Beacon. — A pyramidal- shaped beacon (refdge), 52 feet liigli, painted in red and white alternate bands and sormonnted by a red ball, stands on Bungeness, 150 yards from high-water mark. It is visible in clear weather a distance of 12 miles, and may be seen as soon as cape Vir- gins has been passed. It has been fitted up as a station of refuge for shipwrecked mariners. This and the other beacons recently fitted np serve only as a shelter.
Lightbuilding.T— A lighthouse is now in course of construction on Dungeness.
Wreck. — The wreck of the British ship Hungost^ wrecked May 10, 1804, lies If miles N. 26° W. (N. 46° W. mag.) from Dungeness beacon.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Dungeness at 8h. 30m.; springs rise from 36 to 44 feet; neaps, 30 feet.
Anchorages. — There is a good anchorage on either side of the spit and very convenient for vessels bound either way to await a change of wind or tide or stop for the night. The bottom is of stiff blue mud, that on the east side being thinly overlaid with stones.
As long as the wind does not haul to the southward of S8W. the east anchorage is the better of the two; for, though the squalls may come very hard across the spit, there is no sea until the wind hauls. From this position, if the chain must be slipped or parts, it is very easy to weather the 3-fathoms patch and pass on either side of Nassau rock.
Zealous anchorage, on the west side, is perhaps the better, as the curve of the spit enables a vessel to anchor well under the north shore out of the strength of the tide.
A large vessel should not anchor inside of a line between the beacon on the ness and mount Dinero, but anchor so as to have a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms at low water; and it must not be forgotten when anchor- ing anywhere in the eastern part of the strait that allowance must be made for 7 fathoms rise and fall of tide when eastward of the First Narrows, and when westward it will be much less. In Zealous anchor- age a vessel will be sheltered until the wind veers to the southward of west and will have no difficulty in clearing the ness should it blow hard from S W. There are two conspicuous sand patches on the fiuje of the cliff from which Dungeness projects, which appear like roads; the easternmost of these should bear about N. 31° E. (N, 11° E. mag.) from the anchorage.
Mount Dinero. — When southward of cape Virgins, mount Dinero, a conical hill 270 feet high, and 8 miles to the westward of the •cape, will be seen. From thence the land continues between 200 and 400 feet high, rather level topped, and generally covered with grass and scrub to cape Possession, 14 miles farther west.
Xhis part of the coast is fronted by a shore of mud and stones, with rocky ledges, which dry at low water, from J to J mile off the points. About 3 miles eastward of cape Possession there is a remarkable bare sandy patch.
■» WALLIS SHOAL — PLUMPER ANCHORAGE. 59
Wallis Shoal, with 9 feet water, lies WNW. i W. 10 miles from Dungeness. It is connected with the mainland, and no vessel should pass north of it. Gape Virgins, bearing N. 79° E. (N. 69^ E. mag.) and well open south of Oliff hill, leads outside this danger. Mount Aymond, seen southward of cape Possession, and bearing !N". 65o W. (N. 85° W. mag.) also leads south of Wallis shoal.
Cape Possession, a bold perpendicular headland, 385 feet high, with a deeply furrowed face, is the center of a wavy line of cliffs; and is higher, and has a darker-colored base, than either of the adjoining ones. The laud behind it dips so much that the cape makes as an island at 15 or 20 miles distant on either side.
Beacon. — February, 1896, the beacon on cape Possesion consisted of a small tower painted red and white in horizontal bands and not visible more than 4 miles. No dependence can be placed on beacons on cape Possession for leading through the First Narrows.
Possession bay, extending from cape Possession to the entrance of the First Narrows, affords anchorage, in most parts, though open to winds from the southward.
StonoTitrall anchorage, in Possession bay, has a good bottom of stiff blue mud, is well sheltered from the east, and, being free from the strong tidal currents or high seas, is a safe place. During westerly winds a convenient anchorage will be found in the western part of the bay off Tandy point. Care is necessary in making this anchorage to avoid being set upon Narrow bank.
Water may be obtained IJ miles west of Tandy point from a small pond just inside the high line of the beach. The next watering place is in St. Jago bay, where watering is easier, owing to the heavy surf which usually breaks on the beach in Possession bay.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Possession bay at 8h. 35m. ; springs rise 36 to 42 feet.
Narrov7 and Plumper banks, in the western part of Possession bay, are separated by a channel i mile wide with 5 fathoms water, and over, in it. The least water on Narrow bank is 13 feet, near the center. It may be crossed between half flood and half ebb streams, but this should not be done except in case of necessity, especially with the ebb, ^ as the tide falls rapidly and the stream sets strongly across. Plumper
bank is composed of fine sand and dries at low water.
Bnoy. — A red conical buoy surmounted by a staff and white ball is moored on the south side of Narrow bank.
Caution. — The buoys in Magellan strait are not to be relied upon, as they are frequently out of position or missing. The beacons are often reported down.
Plumper anchorage, SE. of Plumper bank, is not recommended,
although it may be used as a stopping place when unable to pass the
Narrows and anxious not to lose ground.
m If intending to anchor here keep mount Aymond, bearing N. 19° W.
(N. 39° W. mag.), making allowance for the tide, till Direction hill bears
60 MAGELLAN STRAIT.
S. 880 W. (S. 680 W. mag.)? when there will be about 13 fathoms at low water. The anchor must be let go immediately that depth is obtained as any delay may put the vessel in 2 or 20 fathoms, according to the tide.
Mount Ayxnond, 1^ miles inland, is 857 feet high, and has near it to the westward four sharp, rocky summits, named Asses ears. The mount forms an excellent mark when advancing toward the First Nar- rows from the eastward, and can also be seen for some distance west- ward of them. The appearance of the ears changes much according to their bearing; on some bearings all are seen, and on others only one.
Direction hills will be seen as soon as cape Possession is passed; they appear, as do the hills near cape Orange, like islands. When approached on a W. i S. bearing, about 10 miles distant, they show on a lighter background of about the same apparent elevation ; the northernmost and highest hill, 224 feet above the sea., is the best object to steer for on the above bearing, in order to gain the fairway of the First Narrows.
Beacon. — A pyramidal-shaped beacon (refuge), 62 feet high, painted in red and white horizontal bands, and surmounted by a red ball, stands on the northern and highest Direction hill.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, under Direction hills at 8h. 53m. ; springs rise 38 feet, neaps 23 feet.
EASTERN ENTRANCE TO FIRST NARROWS— SOUTH SHORE.
Cape Espiritu Santo, the southern point at the eastern entrance of Magellan strait, is a steep white cliff about 190 feet high, and is the seaward termination of the range of hills (Sierra Balmacedos) which extends across the northern part of Tierra del Fuego from cape Bou- queron. Gap peak is the highest part of this range.
The cape does not show as an extremity until the vessel is inside of the strait. When seen from seaward it appears as the highest part of a line of white cliffs indented by bays, which give it the appearance of having had gaps cut in it. As the land is raised a remarkable detached lump of cliff, appearing like an island, will be seen in the bay to the southward of the cape. The land must not be approached closely, as eastward from the cape the low- water line extends a mile off, while farther north it dries 1 J miles from shore.
Boundary beacon. — A triangular pyramid, 16 feet high, and painted red, has been erected a little more than a mile northwestward from cape Espiritu Santo. The beacon is at the edge of the cliffs, about 55 yards from the sea, and serves to mark the boundary line between Chile and Argentina. It may also be of some service to mariners navi- gating in the vicinity, though it is only visible short distances.
Catherine point is similar in appearance to Dungeness; it seems very low when the tide is high, but the difference which a change of level from 30 to 40 feet makes in the appearance of such spits must not be forgotten when estimating the distance.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Catherine point, at 8h.
SDTLEJ ANCHORAGE — FIRST NARROWS. 61
6m.; springs rise 30 feet. In Lomas bay off Catherine point the tidal streams turn at high and low water by the shore.
Sutlej anchorage, about midway between cape Espiritu Santo and Catherine point, is good for large vessels. The great advantage of this anchorage is that there is no lee shore with the prevailing wind.
It is not advisable to bring Catherine point to the westward of N. 820 W. (S. 780 W. mag.) in picking out a berth, as north of that line the tide is so strong as to cause a vessel to be tide-rode even in a gale, and to roll heavily.
Lomas bay, between Catherine point and cape Orange 23J miles to the westward, is a large bight almost entirely filled by banks which dry at low water.
The bay is not recommended as an anchorage on account of its approach being rendered intricate by the surrounding banks and also its distance from the fairway.
Great Orange bank. — From Catherine point a bank composed of fine dark sand extends nearly 3 miles westward and follows the trend of the coast at 4 to 5 miles distance in the bay; thence curving with the coast to the NW. as far as Anegada point it forms the Great Orange bank, the north extreme of which terminates in a point about 8| miles NE. of cape Orange. Owing to the rapidity of the tidal streams through the First Narrows, its northern edge from Anegada point is abruptly cut off in line with the south shore of the Narrows.
Buoy. — A red conical buoy with staff and ball is moored on the edge of Great Orange bank; too much reliance must not be placed on this buoy.
Spiteful anchorage, eastward of Great Orange bank, will be found very secure in westerly and southwesterly gales. The strength of the tidal currents is its only disadvantage, though much strain is taken off the cable during the flood current, with which westerly winds gen- erally freshen. Here the tide turns one and one-half hours after high and low water.
Although a vessel may approach cape Orange on a west bearing to a distance of 8 miles, the unevenness of the bottom and strength of stream setting across this line render it unadvisable to do so.
Cape Orange, about 8^ miles SE. of Direction hills, terminates in a sharp conical hill 152 feet high, and is unmistakable. As the cape is approached a remarkable white patch of cliff will be seen on its east face.
Beacon. — A triangular pyramid 36 feet high, painted white and sur- mounted by two red cages, has been erected on cape Orange. This beacon is on the slope of the hill marked 152 feet on the charts, but the data furnished states that it is 203 feet above the sea.
FIRST NARROWS.
North shore. — The channel is 10 miles long, KE. and SW., and 2 miles wide, with cliffy shores and an average depth of 40 fathoms.
62 MAGELLAN STRAIT — FIRST KARB0W6.
Delgada point, on the west side of the nortii entrance, has a small
settlement on it.
Anchorage. — ^There is a good anchorage in the bight between Del- gada point and Malvinas point, sheltered from prevailing winds and out of the strength of the tide. The bottom is stiff clay. It is at all times a safe berth for small vessels and to be preferred to Possession bay.
Directions. — In standing in for it, keep Malvinas point bearing N. 70O W. (W. mag.) and anchor when Delgada point bears S. 37° W. (S. 170 W. mag.), 600 yards off shore. The water shoals suddenly from 30 fathoms to 3 fathoms, when the vessel will be out of the tide. The houses serve as excellent landmarks, both for Delgada point and anchorage, which is directly in front of them.
Landing can be effected on this point, and at the next point westward there is a hard sand bank suitable for beaching vessels.
Nunez head will be recognized as a triangular cliff.
Barranca point may be known by its low cliffs, the only ones in this vicinity. It is on the west side of the south entrance to the First Narrows.
BeacozL — ^A beacon has been erected on the summit of Barranca point. The beacon consists of iron framework 33 feet high, pyramidal in shape, and surmounted by a spherical cage. The lower part of the beacon is painted red, the cage white.
Satellite patch, nearly one mile S. 34^ E. (S. 54^ E. mag.) of Bar- ranca point, is usually marked with kelp, but with both the tide and wind strong it is run under from half-flood to half-ebb streams. The outer edge of this patch is steep-to, but its inner edge joins Barranca point. There is a least depth of 3 feet on this patch at low water.
Barranca bank extends a mile SW. from Satellite patch, nearly in line with the coast, and occupies the whole NE. part of St. lago bay.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in the First iNTarrows at 8h. 57m., and the strength of the stream is from 5 to 8 knots. There is no slack water, the stream changing three hours after high and low water.
South shore. — From Anegada point the South shore trends in a southwesterly direction 7 miles to Mendez point, 102 feet high, thence more southerly 3J miles to Baxa point; this shore affords no anchorage except in the bight between Anegada point and Espora point at 3f miles S W, of it, where a small vessel may anchor out of the strength of the tide.
Angle hill, 124 feet high, at 2 miles south of Anegada point, is con- spicuous, having the same apparent elevation and conical appearance as cape Orange, only more regular in outline.
Baza pointy when bearing S. 14^ E. (S. 34° E. mag.), appears as an extreme point of land on the south side of the west entrance to the First Narrows, and may be known by being the fourth clifif from the southward.
FIRST TO SECOND KAHBOWS. 63
Beacon. — A pyramidal beacon (refiige), 52 feet high, painted in red and white horizontal stripes, and sormounted by a red ball, stands on Baxa point. >
ShoaL — The steamer Oulfof 8t Fmcew<, drawing 18 feet, when edg- ing inshore to escape the strength of the adverse stream through the First !N"arrows, struck on a rock, not shown on the charts, off Baxa point.
Gulf of San Vicente rock, with 18 feet of water or less on it and deep water close to the westward, lies approximately IJ miles N. 36° W, (J'^ (N.^o W. mag.) from Baxa poind, between the soundingfc 8 and 32 fathoms and outside of the 10-fathom line shown on the charts.
Dixon hill, 232 feet high, 3^ miles east of Baxa pointy can not be seen until it is open south of the point, unless from an elevation of 26 or 30 feet, when the top of the hill will be visible, over Baxa point bearing S. 670 E. (8. 870 B. mag.). Dixon hill will be seen in clear weather from the westward at a distance of about 20 miles, and may be known by having two mounds slightly rounded, the southern being a little higher and darker and apparently only half the breadth of the northern.
FIRST TO SECOND NARROWS-NORTH SHORE.
(H. O. Chart No. 444.)
St. Jago bay, on the west side of Barranca point, affords anchorage in 6 to 11 fathoms, water. In easterly winds the best anchorage is on the west edge of Barranca bank, where the kelp forms a breakwater. Indeed, the kelp is often most serviceable in this respect in these large bays, as the water is almost invariably smooth in it or under its lee. During westerly winds the best anchorages are under Y alle point or in Gregory bay.
Standing westward, if, on passing Barranca point it is plain that Gregory bay can not be reached, the vessel should continue the mid- channel course until 2 miles past Satellite patch with the stream of the ebb (one mile with the flood stream), and then haul in for Gregory shoulder. This will lead between the two banks, when the land may be closed if it is desired to anchor. Irregular changes in the soundings must be expected, as the bottom is very uneven all over the bay. Valle point is steep, and with the hills at its back can not easily be mistaken.
Triton bank, on which the depth is 7 feet at low water, lies nearly in the track midway between the First and Second !N"arrows, and is com- posed of sand, being an exception to the general rule of the shoalest parts, which are almost invariably formed of shingle. The tide streams set strongly over it and there is usually a ripple near the shoalest spot.
Bnoy. — The southern edge of the bank is marked by a black conical buoy marked Triton in white letters and surmounted by a cage^ it can not be relied upon.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in St. Jago bay at 9h. 27m. j ^ springs rise 20 feet, neaps 15 feet; and on Triton bank at 9h; springs
rise 15 feet.
64 IfAQELIiAN 8TBAIT.
Tribune bank, midway between Triton bank and cape Oregory, has 3^ fathoms on it, and vessels hauling in for an anchorage in Gregory bay should keep the Gone, a hill 135 feet high, at 3 miles south of the Hummock, well open of cape Gregory, bearing S. 88° W. (8, 68^ W. mag.), till Gregory shoulder bears F. G5^ W. (N. 85^ W. mag.), in order to clear it. Here, as elsewhere, allowance must be made for the tide.
The banks Tribune, Triton, Barranca, and Satellite, though treated as separate banks for the purpose of description, are more properly one continuous ridge, connected by the 10-fathom line of soundings. The rapid tide as it sweeps out of either narrows seems to be divided here by the opposite one, which it forces backward, and as it sweeps into the bays on either hand it deposits its load of sand and shingle on the banks.
Cape Gregory, 22 feet high, rises to a sandy hill of 209 feet about a mile to the northward.
Gregory bay affords anchorage in 12 to 13 fathoms between 2^ and 3J miles NE. of the cape.
On account of the prevalent gales it is advisable to anchor well under the north shore. If the south shore of the Second Narrows is visible. Sweepstakes foreland, just shut in by cape Gregory, is a good mark for anchoring. In weighing for the westward with the tide, stand well out into the Narrows before keeping away, to avoid being swept round into shoal water to the southward and westward of the cape.
A house on the beach, 2J miles ST. 15^ E. (N. 5° W. mag.) from the cape, is a very good mark for anchoring. The U. S. S. Finta, in March, 1884, found excellent holding ground in 9 fathoms of water and well sheltered from the prevailing winds; the berth was easily taken up at night by using the lights of the house (cattle ranch) as a guide, keep- ing them on a bearing K 81^ W. (S. 79o W. mag.).
There are now buildings and sheep pens on the shore back of Greg-. ory bay, and there is also a stone house under the bluff back of cape Gregory.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Gregory bay at 9h. 30m. ; springs rise 21 feet, neaps 12 feet. The time of the turning of the flood stream here with reference to the Second Narrows seems doubtful. It has been stated that it turned two and one-quarter or three hours ear- lier at the anchorage than in the Narrows; though several trials have shown this to be the case sometimes, it is not always so, and it is prob- able that the turning of the stream depends on the wind and the posi- tion in which the ship is anchored.
Appearance of the land. — ^When abreast Triton bank, Sntlej hill, at 10 miles west of Direction hills, will begin to show out clear of the range at the back, forming a good mark; in some lights Useful hill (176 feet), 12 miles west of Barranca point, one of several peaked hillocks in this vicinity, will also be seen as a small double hill close to the shore over Valle point, the west entrance point of St. Jago bay; and in clear weather Gap peak will be seen on the south side of the strait.
FIRST TO SECOND NARROWS. 65
Under ordinary circumstances Gregory range, westward of St. Jago bay, appears quite level, and the ground seems to rise in a regular slope from the water's edge to the top of the ridge 5 but if brought into relief by light, or when covered with snow, the whole face of the range will be seen to be a series of ridges and deep ravines, and a row of small hills will appear fringing the coast, between which and the commence- ment of the ascent to Gregory range there is a long valley.
Except in thick weather, before passing. Triton bank, cape Gregory and the Hummock, 260 feet high, will be seen on the north shore appear- ing like islands, and a remarkable conical hill, Sharp, may be seen on the Fuegian side, which is a good guide until St. Simons head comes into view.
Even in thick weather the west shoulder of Gregory range will be seen frequently through the mist. A bearing of it will show the prog- ress made. If the lead is attended to and attention paid to the courses no danger need be apprehended, for if soundings are obtained less than 12 fathoms, after hauling up for the Second Narrows, it is evident that the vessel is too far to the northward, and should be edged away a little. Unless a vessel is a long way out of her course that depth will not be found to the southward; moreover, the latter could hardly happen, owing to the set of the tide streams.
FIRST TO SECOND NARROWS— SOUTH SHORE.
Philip bay comprises the whole of the south shore between Baxa and St. Isidro points. In it are several anchorages, but they are more exposed to the prevailing winds than those in St. Jago bay. The land on the south shore of Philip bay is low, with a row of small hills like those on the north side fringing the coast, behind which the land grad- ually rises toward the range of high ground which has been said to extend from cape Espiritu Santo to cape Boqueron, and of which Gap peak, 925 feet high, forms the only point useful to the mariner. In some lights the coast hills stand out clearly, but generally the land appears to slope from the beach to the back range.
St Isidro pointy the south point of the eastern entrance to the Second Narrows, is low and sandy with a reef off it. The shore flat, which extends out about 6 miles from the center of Philip bay, is only f mile from the shore off St. Isidro point, and the water deepens sud- denly from 12 feet to 37 fathoms.
Barnacle reef/ 3 miles east of St. Isidro point, has on it 16 feet water and is the only rocky ledge between the First and Second Narrows.
Anchorages. — In the KE. part of Philip bay anchorage sheltered from SE, winds may be obtained in 5^ fathoms, with Baxa point bear- ing N". 170 E. (N. 30 W. mag.), distant 3J miles 5 or farther to the south- ward in 10 fathoms water, with the point bearing K. 23° E. (N. 3° E.
1943— No. 89 6
66 MAQELLAK STRAIT — SECOKD NABROWS.
mag.) and Black hill (104 feet high) at 5^ miles sonth of BaxaxHHnt, beariDg S. 84^ E. (N. 76^ b. mag.). When leaving this anchorage for the westward with a fair tide steer for Gregory shonlder until well out in the fairway, to avoid being set down on the foul ground at the head of the bay.
In the bight east of St. Isidro point good anchorage may be obtained, well sheltered from southwesterly winds. Proceeding for this anchor- age, steer in with Double peak, a hill over the 8W. part of the bay, bearing 8. 25^ W. (8. 6o W. mag.), which will lead over the tail of Barnacle reef in 9 fathoms, and when the Cone on the north shore of the Second Narrows bears N. 67^ W, (N. 87° W. mag.) a vessel may anchor in 14 fathoms, sand and shell. This will be found a convenient stopping place if caught by the ebb stream too late to cross to Gregory bay or to reach Eoyal road.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Philip bay at 9h. 29m.; springs rise 17 feet. The west-going stream makes three hours before high water by the shore, and runs till three hours after.
SECOND NARROWS.
North shore. — ^The Second iN^arrows are about 12 miles long 8W. and NE. and from 4 to 6 miles wide. The north shore recedes between cape Gregory and Gracia point and is bordered by a bank with shoal water extending out to the line joining the cape and point. These shoals consist of a sand bank that dries at low water, with its east end IJ miles W. by 8. of the cape, while 5J miles WSW. of the cai)e is Halfway shoal, a mile in length, with S^ fathoms on it. Susannah cove, inside these shoals, is only fit for boats. At Gracia point the bank extends off J mile, with 6 feet over it, and is steepto.
Tides. — It is^igh water, full and change, at Gracia point at lOh. 17m. ; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 7 feet.
South shore. — The south shore is higher than the Patagonian and is straight and steep-to. Prom San Isidro point the shore of the Second Narrows trends in westerly direction 6 miles to St. Simon head, 226 feet high, thence curving gradually to the southward for 5J miles to cape St. Vincent, 184 feet high, the SW. entrance point of the Second Narrows.
SECOND NARROWS TO CAPE PORPESSE— PATAGONIAN SHORE.
(H. O. Chart No. 445.)
Oaz7 harbor, IJ miles westward of Gracia point, has a narrow entrance and a space within for anchorage J mile in extent. All the rest is dry, or nearly so, at low water.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Oazy harbor at lOh, 18m. j springs rise 7 feet, neaps 6 feet.
TArhitsand bay, adjoining Oazy harbor, affords anchorage in 2 to 4 fathoms, well sheltered from westerly winds.
PECKET HABBOR — ELIZABETH ISLAND. 67
Pecket hnrbor is 5 miles westward of Oazy harbor, and tHoagh tliiB anchorage groxmd is confined, a steamer, with care, may pass in and out. With westerly winds a disagreeable sea gets up quickly in this harbor, and makes it dangerous for boats. The distance between the two points forming the apparent entrance is 1^ miles, but between Perno point on the north side and Plaid island at one mile within the entrance the whole space is shoal, upon the greater part of which the sea breaks in a moderate breeze, while the navigable channel between Plaid island and Puno point (a sand spit steep-to) on the south is only about 200 yards wide.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in the harbor 9h. 30m. ; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 6 feet.
The tide loses some of its force on entering the harbor, in which, though the flood tide is strong^ the ebb is not much felt.
Royal road is between Elizabeth island and the main. essels may anchor in security out of the strength of the currents in any part of the roads, although the berth off the north end of Elizabeth island is preferable.
The Middle ground, with 2^ fathoms least water, lies nearly mid- way between Pecket harbor and Elizabeth island. The north extreme of Elizabeth island, in line with the south side of Santa Marta island, leads southward of the Middle ground.
A vessel of moderate size may pass eastward of the Middle ground, keeping along the west side of Elizabeth island at i mile distant until cape Thorax bears about S. 52° E. (8. 72° E. mag.) and the passage is well open, when steer for cape Porpesse, to avoid being set into the shallow water off Shoal haven. Laredo bay is preferable to the anchorage north off cape Porpesse in SE. winds.
When the wind and current are opposed to each other a dangerous race ensues for boats in Pelican passage between Thorax cape and the mainland.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Eoyal road at 9h. 47m, j springs rise 8 feet.
Elizabeth island is 8 miles WE. and SW., with an average breadth of 2 miles, and is composed of ranges of hills extending in ridges nearly in the direction of its length. The highest elevation is 178 feet near the south end of the island. A bank with 4 fathoms least water and 16 to 20 fathoms close-to, extends in a southeasterly direction one mile from Tern point, the SB, extreme of the island.
Anchorage. — If unable to make Laredo bay or Sandy point, good anchorage will be found in 7 fathoms of water off the northern end of the island. When using this anchorage allowance must be made for the set of the currents, especially after dark. Should Elizabeth island seem very close without soundings the vessel is sure to be too far to the eastward, and must edge away to the westward until a proper depth is found.
68 MAGELLAN STRAIT.
The anchorage on the east shore of the island is abreast of a remark- able gap between Sylvester and Alfred points, bottom of coarse sand and shell, in 8 to 10 fathoms.
Santa Marta island. — ^Marta bank, with 2 to 9 fathoms water, and 15 to 26 fathoms close aronnd, lies 3^ miles sonth of Second Narrows, and 1^ miles east of Sylvester point. It is 5^ miles long, north and south, with an average breadth of abont i mile. In the middle of this bank stands Santa Marta island, rising in perpendicular cliffs 96 feet above the sea, flat topped, and sloping slightly to the eastward. A reef, which dries, extends ^ niUe from it in a northeasterly direction. As the east-going stream sets strongly across this bank, it is recommended to keep well on the Elizabeth island shore in passing.
Marta Bank buoy. — ^A conical red buoy, surmounted by a staff and white ball, is moored in 6 fathoms, eastward of a 2-fathom patch named Baja Marta, near the NE, extreme of Marta bank. The position of the buoy is unreliable.
Santa Magdalena island has four or Ave small hills by which it can not fail to be recognized, especially when coming from the westward, the highest of which, at the SW. end, rises 136 feet perpendicularly from the water. The 10-fathom line extends nearly 1 J miles north and south, and 2 miles east of this island, and should not be closed inside this line by passing vessels. Kelp and tide ripplings mark the edge of deep water on the !NE., and sometimes these may be seen to the SW.
Shoals. — ^A sunken danger lies about one mile from the KW. side of Santa Magdalena island. The German steamship Setos is reported to have struck on this shoal, which, from bearings taken at the time, but of objects that leave a considerable doubt as to the exact position, lies with the S W. extreme of Santa Magdalena island, bearing S. 15° W. (S. 50 E. mag.) approximate, distant about 1^ miles. The danger is probably of* small extent, as immediately after striking (the vessel heeling over) soundings of 9J fathoms were obtained.
A shoal of 3 fathoms lies with the SW. point of the island bearing S. 30 W. (S. 170 E. mag.), distant 1,100 yards; a shoal of 4i fathoms lies with the same point,- bearing S. 31^ E. (S. 51° E. mag.), distant 1,200 yards; and a shoal of 3 J fathoms with the NE. point of the island bear- ing K. 530 W. (K 730 W. mag.), distant IJ mUes.
Wreck. — The wreck of the steamer Atlantique lies sunk in a posi- tion with Santa Magdalena island north extreme bearing K. 72° W. (S. 8S^ W. mag.), distant 1,133 yards, and Santa Marta island summit K 140 W. (N. 340 W. mag.).
Caution. — The tide does not run fairly through the channel between Santa Magdalena and Santa Marta islands, and as rocky heads may exist on. the banks surrounding both the islands bordering it, on which much kelp at times grows, it should never be used at night.
Walker shoal, with 3J to 9 fathoms over it and from 20 to 37 fath- oms around, lies between Santa Magdalena and Elizabeth islands. It
SECOND NARROWS TO MAGDALEN SOUND. 69
is aboat 4 miles KB. and SW., and from ^ to 1 mile wide. The north- ern and broadest part of this shoal is separated by a narrow chan- nel, with depths of 13 to 17 fathoms, from a smaller shoal If miles long and J mile wide, which lies parallel to Walker shoal, and on which the depth is from 4f to 9 fathoms.
The stream runs from 3 to 5 knots between Walker shoal and Santa Magdalena island.
Buoy. — ^A conical buoy, painted red, with the word Walker on it in white letters, surmounted by a staff and globe, painted white, has been placed on the southwestern part of Walker shoal. The position of the buoy is unreliable.
ShoaL — About 2J miles off cape Negro, and SW. of Walker shoal, the U. S. revenue cutter Grant encountered an extensive kelp patch not shown on the charts. The commander of the Chilean gunboat Condor stated that he sounded over this patch and found 8 to 10 feet of water. Thib shoal lies in a position very dangerous to vessels using the Queen channel, or running out from the anchorage in Laredo bay.
Channels. — For the channels in and around those islands and shoals, and the directions for them, see page 49
SECOND NABBOWS TO MAGDALEN SOUND — TIEBBA DEL FUEGO
SHOBE.
(H.O. Chart No. 445.)
Lee bay. — On the south side of cape St. Vincent the land recedes and forms a deep bight named Lee bay. The bay is 9 miles wide between cape St. Vincent and the south entrance point but Xew bank, with 7 feet least water, extends from cape St Vincent half way across the entrance.
Anchorage in the bay is not recommended.
GKente Grande bay is shoal and unfit to enter, and the shore around it is low and dangerous. Gente point, about 5 miles south of the bay, and the land near it, is also low, and the strong tide setting along shore is an additional reason for avoiding the vicinity of this point.
Quartermaster island, 68 feet high, lies across the entrance to Gente Grande bay. A long spit dries upward of a mile from the NE. end. The south end of the island is composed of sand covered with grass, eastward of which anchorage may be had in 5 to 7 fathoms, with the extremes of the island bearing about K. 17o W. (N. 37° W. mag.) and S. 710 W. (S. 610 W. mag.).
Coast. — ^The coast from Gente point trends south 21 miles to cape Monmouth, thence southeasterly 10 miles to cape Boqueron, a precipi- tous headland, forming the abrupt termination of the high land extend- ing across the country from cape Espiritu Santo. The shoulder of this range over the cape forms a most conspicuous mark from the neighbor- hood of Sandy point.
70 MAGELLAN STRAIT — ADinRALITT SOUKD.
There are no oatlying dangers along this part of the coast^ and the water shoals gradually to the shore.
Forvenir bay, 2 miles north of cape Monmoath, is avaUable for small craft. With the assistance of a pilot, or by buoying the channel, a vessel drawing 13 feet could enter at high water, otherwise the chan- nel should not be attempted. The entrance is 1,200 yards wide, with 2 to 3^ fathoms, but i mile farther in the width considerably decreases, and there is only 0 feet water.
After a sharp turn to the northward round a sandy point the Nar- rows are reached between the north shore and a long sand spit project- ing from the opi>osite side, leaving a passage 100 yards wide, with 4 :fatboms in the center.
Inside it opens out to a basin 2 miles long and i mile wide, but a great part of it is shallow, and banks obstruct the deeper portions. The Sylvia anchored in 4 fathoms just outside the entrance on a stiff- clay bottom. The tide runs very strong in the entrance.
Porvenir bay is the headquarters of the gold diggers working the hills behind it; a small Chilean military establishment is maintained here. There is communication between this settlement and Punta Arenas by a small steamer.
nselesB bay, to the eastward of cape Boqueron, is more than 30 miles deep, from 12 to 20 wide, and entirely exposed to the SW. The northern shore affords no shelter, but on the southern side there is an indentation of the coast line under the hill named Nose peak, which may possibly afford a sheltered anchorage.
Admiralty sonnd, at 23 miles south of Useless bay, extends 43 miles to the eastward into the island of Tierra d^l Fuego. It is 9 miles wide at the entrance, and gradually diminishes to 3 miles. On its north side the shore is straight, but the south side has three deep inlets, named Brookes, Ainsworth, and Parry harbors. The sound terminates in a bay, affording anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms, but is much exposed to NW. winds, which, from the funnel shape of the sound, probably blow with great strength. On the north side of the bay is mount Hope, a lofty, detached mass of rock, but to the south- ward of it lies a considerable tract of low land, over which the view is unobstructed for a considerable distance, being bounded only by a distant mountain in an easterly direction.
Port Cook, on the south shore of the sound, just within the entrance, is convenient and useful. It is sheltered by an island, high and wooded; the anchorage is off the rivulet on the west side, in 9 fathoms. Brookes harbor south of port Cook is spacious, but not good; the water is deep, and the anchorages, being in coves, are not easy of access. Ainsworth harbor, 12 miles east of Brookes harbor, has anchor- age at its head on the west side. The mountains at the back of the harbor are capped by an enormous glacier that descends into the sea. Parry harbor, 10 miles east of Ainsworth harbor, is abopt 5 miles deep
DAWSON ISLAND — PORT VALDEZ. 71
and 3 miles wide; at the entrance on the west side there are two coves, either of which offers a convenient stopping place for a small vessel.
Dawson island is 45 miles long north and south and 18 miles across the broadest part. Cape Valentyn, its northern extremity, is low, with a small hammock near the extremity, and becomes visible from the fairway of the strait when between Freshwater bay and port Famine. A bank with 3 and 4 fathoms marked by kelp extends from the east extreme of the cape in a northwesterly direction for 2 miles. The tides rush over the bank, forming, in a contrary wind, races probably at times dangerous to boats. The bank has only been partially examined.
Preservation cove. — Stabenrauch point is 10 miles SW. of cape Valentyn, and south of the point is Preservation cove, small, and with an islet off its south point affording protection for landing in most states of the weather if the wind be not west of north.
St Peter and St Paul rocks lie 1^ miles SW. by W. from Stu- benrauch point. They are about 10 feet above high water, and when joined at low water are 400 yards in extent. The ground between these rocks and Stubenrauch point and from the latter in a northwesterly direction is foul.
Lomas bay, 5 miles south of Preservation cove, is a deep bight, bottom of stiff, blue clay, suflBciently sheltered from SW., but quite exposed to NW. and westerly windi^, which during the winter are the most prevalent.
Port San Antonio. — From the south-entrance x)oint of Lomas bay the shore trends westerly 3 .miles to Joachim point, and at 3| miles south of this point lies port San Antonio, which has the appearance of being well sheltered, but during a fortnight that the Adventure was there, so much inconvenience was experienced, and even risk, from the violence of the squalls that they were obliged to secure the ship with three anchors. Some diflftculty was also found in leaving the port on account of the baffling winds, as well as the narrowness of the channel (North passage).
The port formed by the channel between Dawson island and the two adjacent islands of North and San Juan is scarcely i mile across, and in it, particularly at the north end, are several islets. From the west end of North island a reef extends i mile, and to the southward there are two small islets, which may be passed on either side. North island is separated from San Juan island by a narrow and impassable strait.
As there are so many better anchorages on the opposite shore of the strait, this port should not be resorted to unless in great necessity.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port San Antonio at 12h. ; springs rise from 6 to 8 feet.
Port Valdez, at 2 miles south of port San Antonio, is a deep inlet extending in a SB. direction, but is not at all inviting to enter. From the appearance of the hills, which on both sides of this port rise to an
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MAGDALEN SOUND — LABYRINTH ISLANDS. 73
these mountains the summit of the range is occupied by an extensive glacier, the constant melting of which feeds innumerable cascades which pour large bodies of water down the rocky precipices overhang- ing the south shore of the channel.
Magdalen sound is the next opening west of Gabriel channel. Approaching from the northward it appears to be a continuation of the strait, and it is not until after passing cape San Isidrothat Froward reach opens out. Magdalen sound extends in a southerly direction for 20 miles and is bounded on either side by high and precipitous hills, particularly on the western or Clarence island shore. Anxious point, the eastern entrance point of the sound, is a low, narrow tongue of land, with an island off it. Abreast this point, on Clarence island, there is a steep mountain, called the Vernal (or summerhouse) from a remark- able lump of rock upon its summit.
Hope harbor, on the south side of mount Yernal, is a convenient stopping place for small vessels passing through Magdalen sound. The entrance is narrow, with kelp across it, indicating a rocky bed, but not less than 7 fathoms were found on it. Inside it opens into a spacious basin, with anchorage in 4 fathoms, sheltered from all winds excepting the squalls off high land, which must blow with furious violence during a southwesterly gale.
Stokes inlet, at 2^ miles southward of Hope harbor, has at its entrance the three Rees islets. The inlet extends 3 miles in a southerly direction, with deep water; there is a cove on its north side, but neither as good nor accessible as Hope harbor.
Mount Boqueron, the extremity of which is Squally point, the east entrance point of Stokes inlet, is a very precipitous mountain, about, 3,000 feet high, having on its summit three small but remarkably con- spicuous peaks. The squalls that blow down the sides of this moun- tain during a SW. gale are most furious, and dangerous unless little sail be carried.
The sound here is not more than 2^ miles wide. On the opposite shore, within Anxious point, an inlet extends to the SB. for 2 or 3 miles but it is narrow and unimportant.
ShoU bay is a small bight, 5 miles southward of Squally point. There is a reef off it which is marked by kelp, and a rock close to Ariadne point, the south entrance point of the bay.
At 2 miles south of Ariadne point there is a rocky islet lying nearly in the middle of the sound.
Lab3arinth islands, consisting of two large and several small islands, lie in the entrance of a bay about 3 miles south of Sholl bay. Drew harbor at the head of the bay is protected by the Labyrinth islands, and has depths of 10 to 12 fathoms. North entrance, with 13 fathoms water, lies between the northernmost of the group and a projecting point of Clarence island. South entrance, with 8 to 12 fathoms water, lies between Jane island, the southernmost of the group,
74 HAQELLAN STRAIT.
and the soath side of the bay. Small vessels may find good anchorage among these islands.
Transitioii bay, the next opening sonth of Iiab3rTinth islands, is deep, but of little importance. At cape Tarn, 4 miles farther south, the channel narrows to 2 miles, and the shore tarns snddenly to the westward into Oockburn channel.
Keats Bound, on the opposite shore, extends to the eastward for 6 or 8 miles, and is between 4 and 5 miles wide. Southward of Keats sound, there are no objects worth noticing, excepting mount Sannieuto, already described, and Pyramid hill, 2,500 feet high.
BROAD AND FAMINE REACH— CAPE PORPESSE TO CAPE
FROWARD.
Laredo bay. — From cape Porpesse the shore trends in a southerly direction f mile to cape l^egro, on the south side of which lies Laredo bay, the easternmost anchorage in the strait, where wood can be obtained. This bay affords a secure anchorage when there is any west- ing in the wind; and with easterly winds, which are uncommon, and seldom blow with violence, no danger need be apprehended if the ground. tackling be good, as the depth of water is 7 fathoms, and the bottom sand and mud.
When entering, keep well over to the north shore, as there is a ledge of rocks off the southern point; but cape Porpesse should not be passed too closely, as shoal ground extends off f mile in an easterly direction. There is a 15-foot patch in the center of the bay. Gape St. Vincent, seen open of the east extreme of Santa Marta, bearing N. 51° B. (K 31^ E. mag.), leads outside the 5-fathom line of soundings. The best anchorage is in the NW. part of the bay, with Hawk cliff (which will appear as the eastern extreme of Elizabeth island) just open of cape Negro. No tide of any consequence will be found inside Laredo bay. Between cape Negro and Quarter Master island on the opposite shore may be called the western limit of strong tides in Magellan strait.
Caution. — In leaving the bay a vessel should be careful to avoid the 8-foot shoal marked by kelp and reported as lying about 2 J miles S. 76^ E. (N. 840 E. mag.) fix)m cape Negro.
Tide& — It is high water, full and change, in Laredo bay at llh.; springs rise 7 feet When to the southward of Laredo bay the tidal streams are scarcely felt; but to the northward they are strong, and must be carefully guarded against during the night or in light winds. A vessel in mid-channel between Laredo bay and Gente Grande bay on the eastern shore would be set by the ebb tide, if the wind failed, directly among the dangers surrounding Santa Magdalena island.
Catalina bay, about 8 miles south of Laredo bay, has no good anchorage. Just north of it there is a conspicuous white clay patch in the cliff, which is an excellent mark for determining a vessel's position. In some lights this patch looks like a ship under sail when to the northward of it.
SANDY POINT ROAD — TIDES. 75
Sandy Point road. — Sandy point, the south extreme of Gatalina bay, is a low projection covered with grass, with a few trees on its inner part, and extends more than a mile from the general direction of the coast. To the northward and northeastward the water is deep close-to, but to the southeast less than 3 fathoms will be found a mile from the point.
Beacon. — A pyramidal-shaped beacon (refuge) 52 feet high, painted in red and white bands and surmounted by a red ball, stands on Sandy point.
Bnoy& — ^A red conical buoy with staff is moored in 4 fathoms on the eastern edge of the shoal extending from Sandy point. Its position is unreliable.
A mooring buoy for the use of the Chilean station ship is moored in Sandy Point road SSE. of the lighthouse.
Funta Arenas or Sandy point, 2^ miles SSW. of Sandy point, is a Chilean settlement 5 population in 1894 about 4,000. It is built on the summit of a bank 35 feet high. A river runs past the settlement on the north side charged with sand from the hills, down which it runs with great force in the rainy season.
Off the Biver point, at the mouth of this river, shoals extend east- ward for a mile.
The place is healthy at all seasons; no epidemic diseases. There is a captain of the port and a health oficer, but no method of enforcing any regulations. The port is free; no regular pilots, but sometimes they may be obtained for the lateral channels.
Supplies. — Ships' stores of all description, live stock, fresh meat, ,and vegetables can be obtained; also wood and fresh water. Pish may be taken with the seine at the commencement of flood tide on the sand beach near Eiver point.
CoaL — Cardiff coal can be obtained from the hulk, where 1,200 tons are usually kept in stock. Vessels may go alongside the hulk in safety, but should not drop an anchor. From 150 to 180 tons can be put aboard per day; otherwise coaling is slow, and done by lighters towed by a vessel's own boats. Price in 1895 about $16 per ton. The hulk is moored over the wreck of the Doterelj which has 6 fathoms over it.
Communications. — The P. S. N. C. steamers call four times a month — twice from England and twice from Valparaiso. The Kosmos Line call regularly. A small steamer'communicates with Porvenir bay.
Observation spot. — The observation spot is at the old boathouse, and, according to the latest determination, is in latitude 53o 10' S. and longitude 70° 54' (6" .24) W.
Light. — A fixed white light, 26 feet above the sea level and visible 10 mile§f, is shown from a framework on end of pier.
The coal hulk shows two red lights at night when vessels arrive.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Sg-ndy Point road at 12h. ; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 4 feet.
76 KAGELLAN STBAIT.
Anchorage. — The anchorage is good and well sheltered from the prevalent westerly and southwesterly winds. Easterly or southeasterly gales rarely blow home to make it unsafe.
Directions. — A vessel making for the anchorage in Sandy Point road should not close the land until the lighthouse bears N. 70<^ W. (West, mag.), when it may be steered for on that bearing and anchor in 5 to 8 fathoms, water. A large vessel should anchor in 10 fathoms upon the same bearing. Anchorage may also be obtained in 5 to 6 fathoms farther south with the lighthouse bearing N. 23^ W. (N. 43^ W. mag.). Vessels should give Sandy point a wide berth, and not depend upon the red buoy as marking the clearance of the bank.
Landing. — As soon as the wind has any easting in it a surf sets in on the beach, and unless at the pier, landing will frequently be found difficult or impossible in the winter months when it is perfectly fine in the channel. When it is too rough for boats to land a black disk is hoisted on a pole near the lighthouse.
Fresh'water bay. — Punta Santa Maria, 13 miles southward of Sandy point, is the north entrance point of Agna Fresca or Freshwater bay, and may be known by the land suddenly trending into the bay. It has also a high bank close to the beach, with two patches bare of trees. All the points to the northward are low and thickly wooded. As the bay opens, the bluff point at its southern extremity becomes visible. There is also a remarkable round hill (Center mount), 990 feet high, a short distance westward of the bay, and a valley southward of it, through which a small river runs into the sea. This bay (theBahia de Eomay of the Spaniards) is now an offstation of the Chilean settle- ment at Sandy point. There were 62 inhabitants, chiefly Swiss, in 1878, forming a small settlement, the houses being visible from the sea. There is also a Chilean military post.
Anchorages. — Between Sandy point and Punta Santa Maria good anchorage may be obtained in 10 and 12 fathoms, sand and shell over clay, f mile from the shore. At the edge of the kelp which fronts the shore there are depths of 5 and 6 fathoms, so that with the wind off- shore a vessel may anchor close to the coast by keeping outside of the kelp. The holding ground in Freshwater bay is good, but with Sandy point and port Famine so near it is not likely to be required.
Supplies. — Vegetables can be readily procured from the settlers between the months of November and April; beef can always be obtained. Wood is plentiful and good for steaming purposes. Good water can be obtained from the rivulets.
Directions. — Rounding into Freshwater bay from the northward, keep from f to ^ mile from the coast in 10 or 12 fathoms, and having passed Punta Santa Maria, steer toward the bluff' southern point of the bay until the south beach under Center mount bears N. 48° W^. (N. 68^ W. mag.), when the vessel will be clear of the kelp. The north side of the bay is foul round the edge of the kelp, and should not be approached
PUNTA CABRERAS — ^PORT FAMINE. 77
into a less depth than 6 or 7 fathoms. Steer in with Center mount on the above bearing, or a little southward of it, and anchor in 9 to 10 fathoms, sandy mud over clay, with the extremity of Punta Santa Maria bearing K. 12° E. (S. 8^ W. mag.), Center mount (south pitch) N. 870 W. (S. 730 W. mag.), and the entrance to the river S. 64° W. (S. 340 W. mag.). A good berth may be obtained much nearer the shore in 6 fathoms, toward which the depth gradually decreases.
Punta Carreras. — South of Freshwater bay the coast is bold (though a small vessel may anchor outside the kelp), and trends in a southerly direction 11 miles to Punta Carreras, which is low, but may be recog- nized by a sawmill upon it. Georgia reef, extending one mile SE. by S. from Punta Carreras, dries for a considerable distance at low water, and is marked by kelp to its extremity. Cape San Isidro, seen open eastward of Santa Anna point, and bearing S. 17^ W. (S. 3° E. mag.), leads eastward of Georgia reef.
Carreras bay, between Georgia reef on the north and Askew point, a conspicuous bluff, on the south side of the bay, affords a confined though good anchorage in 14 fathoms, muddy sand, off the center of the sandy beach at the head, taking care to "let go" immediately that depth is obtained, with the large house bearing N. 81° W. (S. 79° W. mag.). Nearer to the inshore end of Georgia reef the bottom is shelv- ing, and a vessel would tail very close with a SE. wind. In 1884 there was a sawmill here, and it is a convenient place to load timber, as the beach is very steep, and, excepting with easterly winds, no swell fetches on to it. As a stopping place it is not to be compared with Port Famine.
Askew point, bearing S. 54° W. (S. 34^ W. mag.), will lead in clear of Georgia reef.
Santa Anna point, 2 miles south of Carreras bay, has a large clump of trees on its extreme end, and will be distinguished soon after leaving Sandy point. Mount San Felipe, 3 miles westward of Santa Anna point, is 1,455 feet high.
Arauco patch, with 5 fathoms over it, is 450 yards S. 42° E. (S. 62° E. mag.) irom the extreme of Santa Anna point.
Tidal streams. — All along this coast the strength of the stream is not great, but frequeutly, with a southerly wind, there is in the offing a set to the northward quite independent of the stream. In winter the tides occasionally rise high and overflow a considerable portion of the land immediately behind the beach.
Port Famine affords good anchorage on the south side of Santa Anna point. Landing can almost always be effected (except in easterly gales) on one side or the other of the port. The Sedger river flows into the south part of the port, and is fronted by a bar which dries at low water, but can be entered by boats at half tide. The water is fresh at J mile above the entrance. Drift timber of large size is plentiful.
Supplies. — ^The fishing is variable, depending not only on the state
7S MAOELLAK STRAIT.
of the tide, but also on the direction of tbe wind. Usaally it is a very good place for hauling the seine, and the smelt are abuudant and fine. Ducks and geese, with occasional snipe and plover, will idso be found.
Tides. — It is high water, fiQl and change, at port Famine at noon; springs rise 6 feet, the ebb setting to the northward and the flood to southward; the range is irregular, depending upon the prevalence of the wind, northeasterly and easterly winds causing high tides, while winds from the opposite directions have a contrary efitot.
I>ireotloxl& — In standing in give Santa Anna point a berth of at least 800 yards; but if under sail only, and the wind is scant, give it a good wide berth on account of the eddy current wjiich sometimes sets toward it. Steer in toward the head of the bay for the summit of mount San Felipe, keeping it on over the rivulet, which will be known by a small break in the trees on the WW. end of the clear bank on the south side of the bay. The bank is conspicuous, being clear of trees and covered with grass. Keep on this course until the mouth of the Sedger river is open, taking care not to shut in the points of its entrance, anchoring in from 9 to 7 fathoms as convenient.
At night under steam a vessel will be able to feel her way to an anchor- age after passing Santa Anna point, by steering K. 35^ W. (K. 55^ W. mag.), straight up the middle of the port, anchoring as soon as 14 or 15 fathoms is obtained. In summer the best berth is toward the west side iu 9 fathoms, and in winter in the center of the bay. The strongest winds here, as well as elsewhere in the strait, are from NW. to S W. ; it blows hard sometimes from the south, and occasionally a fresh gale out of the valley to the southward of mount San Felipe. Unless the vessel be very large or a long stay be meditated, single anchor is quite sufficient, or moor with a kedge to the SE. The ground, though best in the middle, is good all over the port, being stiff, tenacious clay, in some places overlaid by sand.
Voces bay, immediately to the southward of port Famine, has anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms off Second river, but the shelter is not so good as in port Famine, and it would only be used when several vessels were in company. Second river, which has a shoal entrance, comes from some distance up the valley. Between Voces bay and Tree point, at 6 miles further south, the water is too deep for anchorage, even close to the beach. At 1 J miles south of Tree point, on the ITE. side of cape San Isidro, anchorage may be obtained in 9 to 10 fathoms, which might be useful to a vessel of small power, unable to make headway against the violent squalls which sometimes come around the cape; or for any vessel running into a fog, which sometimes, though rarely, is experi- enced in this locality.
A small colony, for the purpose of cutting timber, was established in Voces bay in 1882.
Light. — On the shore of Voces bay from a window in a house is shown a light visible one mile.
CAPE SA]^ I&IDRO-^BOtrCHAGE BAY. 79
Cape San Isidro has a low, but conspicuous, rounded hillock at its extremity, covered with trees, and forms the termination of a ridge, the summit of which is mount Tarn, the most conspicuous mountain near that part of the strait on the west side. A rocky patch, covered with kelp, extends 400 yards off the cape, with a rock awash at high water at its outer end.
From cape San Isidro the coast trends 8 W. about 7 miles to Glascott point, and in the stretch are several small bays in which a vessel might find anchorage.
Wreck. — ^A wreck of an iron vessel, with one mast standing and one inclined, lies close to cape San Isidro, and was seen a long distance. The wreck will probably mark the cape for many years.
Mount Tarn. — From abreast of Elizabeth island mount Tarn, 50 miles to the southward, is readily distinguished, whence it appears to be the most projecting part of the continental shore. When viewed from the northward its shape is peaked, and during the summer it has generally some patches of snow a little below its summit, but in the winter months its sides are covered with snow for two-thirds down. From abreast and to the southward of port Famine it appears saddle- shaped^ its summit is really a sharp ridge extending nearly a mile NW. and SE., with a precipitous descent on the NE. and a steep slope on the SW. sides. The highest part, near its NE. end, is 2,685 feet above the sea.
Eagle bay, south of cape San Isidro, is f mile dfeep and affords anchorage at its head, but it is only useful for small vessels, steadied by warps to the shore. The williwaws at times are violent. A small reef extends 200 yards from the SW. point of the bay, and on it is an islet. Two streams empty into the bay, but the water can not be preserved long.
Grun bay, next to Eagle bay, only affords anchorage for ar single vessel near the shore at its S W. part in 8 to 9 fathoms, stiff clay. Two rivulets empty into the bay, from which water can be easily procured A round hill of moderate elevation separates it from Indian bay.
Indian bay. — From the south entrance point of Gun bay the shore trends in a westerly direction about one mile to Indian bay, and then curves round toward an islet covered with trees, between which and the shore there is only a boat passage. A rock about 12 feet high lies to the SE. of the islet, and either north or south of it anchorge may be obtained in 7 to 9 fathoms good holding ground, sufficiently sheltered from the prevailing winds.
The north side of Indian bay is shoal, caused probably by the alluvial deposit from the stream nearly in the center. A patch of kelp projects 400 yards from the SE. point, but has 9 fathoms over its middle.
Bonchage bay, next south, is smalt and the water deep, except near the head, where anchorage may be obtained in 8 fathoms, day.
80 ICAGELLAN STRAIT.
Cape Remarqnable, which has a precipitous round-topped bluff projection, wooded to the summit, separates Bonchage from Bournand bay.
Bournand bay is somewhat better sheltered than its neighbor from the southerly winds by Nassau island; the anchorage is at the SW. end of the stony beach, off the rivulet, in 8 fathoms of water, stiff mud.
Bougainville bay, known as Jack harbor by the sealers, forms a snug basin, in which a vessel might careen with perfect safety. From its small size, great depth of water, and eijual height of land it is rather difficult of access, but a vessel may anchor in 12 fathoms and steady herself by warps to the trees along the sides of the cove. It is com- pletely sheltered from all winds.
Nassau island is covered with trees. Unless close to the shore, the channel between it and the mainland can not be seen, but the island may be recognized by its terminating in a x>oint of needle-shax>ed rocks. When rounding cape San Isidro, San Brigida point, 60 feet high, at the south extremity of the island, will appear as a small island. There is little or no advantage to be gained by going through Nassau channel between the island and the mainland, as it is so very narrow and the currents very irregular.
San Nicolas bay is the best anchorage between cape Ban Isidro and cape Froward both from its dei)th of water, extent of anchorage ground, and its being more easily entered and quitted. It is well sheltered from winds between north and SW. A large vessel standing to the westward will do well to stop here unless sure of reaching Fortescue bay before dark.
Nearly in the center of the bay is Sanchez island, small, and covered with trees, between which and the shore there is a passage of 7 fath- oms. The shore is fronted for its whole length by a shoal bank, which much reduces the apparent extent of the bay. This bank extends ^ mile from shore, its edge is steep-to, and is generally distinguished by a ripple, which, with a moderate breeze, breaks at half tide. This is not a good place for procuring water.
The best anchorage for a large vessel is about midway between Glascott point and Sanchez, with a bottom of mud or clay. Small ves- sels may stand farther in to 9 fathoms, clay bottom. This berth is sheltered from all westerly winds. Vessels standing in under sail are recommended to keep plenty of sail on, in order to shoot into a good berth, on account of the high land of Nodales peak, which becalms, and to avoid the drift of the river current, which sets over to the eastern side of the bay. It is not probable that the river current would affect a vessel when between the islet and the point.
In selecting an anchorage, care is necessary not to run in too far and fall upon the bank; but unless the SW. side of the bay is hugged closely, and as long as the outer extreme of Sanchez island is not brought to the eastward of E. by N., a vessel will be safe.
GLASCOTT POINT — SNUG BAY. 81
Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, in San Nicolas bay at 60m. ; springs rise 6 feet.
Glascott point, the southern boundary of San Nicolas bay, is the extreme of a high range of hills extending back for some distance. On its summit are several sharp points, Nodales peak being the most con- spicuous. From Glascott point the coast trends in a southwesterly direction nearly straight to cape Froward, a distance of 7 miles, the laud at the back continuing mountainous and woody. Punta Sampaio, formed by a beach of shingle, covered with trees to within 20 yards of the water's edge, and distant nearly 3 miles from cape Froward, is the only projection. Between this point and the entrance of a rivulet, which waters the only valley in this space, there is an anchorage i mile from the shore in 11 fathoms, which might be occupied during a westerly wind; but with the wind more southerly it would be too much exposed to be safe.
Cape Froward is the southern extremity of the continent of South America, and lies nearly in the middle of Magellan strait; it rises abruptly 1,200 feet above the sea. The hill which rises immediately above the cape was called by Sarmiento the Morro de San Aguedo. Mount Victoria, immediately behind, is 2,910 feet high.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at cape Froward at Ih.
FROWARD AND ENGLISH REACHES— CAPE FROWARD TO JEROME
CHANNEL.
west of cape Froward. See page 53.
Anchorges, remarks on. See page 55.
Snug bay, 5 miles west of cape Froward, is an excellent berth, although the anchorage is quite open. The water from the Rio D'Oro has deposited a large bank of even, muddy bottom, which forms a good holding ground. The lead will only bring up broken shell. There is plenty of room and no williwaws.
The best berth is in 8 fathoms, about 400 yards ea^t of Lambert islet. There is room for several vessels to the northVard and eastward of this berth, with equally good holding ground. The islet is a good guide for anchoring. The outer edge of the anchorage bank is steep-to. The easterly tide current is quite strong at the anchorage, with S W. winds,
"Wreck. — The 3-fathom shoal about 800 yards northwestward from Lambert island is marked by the wreck of an iron steamer.
Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in Snug bay at 40m.; springs rise 8 feet.
Coast — ^The coast from Snug bay to Woods bay is straight and steep-to. A low-powered steamer will often be able to creep along inshore at a distance of about i mile, where she will find some shelter and less current than further out, when the wind is straight down the reach.
1943— No. 89 6
82 MAOELLAK STRAIT.
Cape Holland is bold and high, and although projecting but diglitly it is a conspicuoas headland (darker than any land in the vicinity), as it is formed by an isolated ridge 1,125 feet high, parallel to the strait, and presenting precipitous cliffs with steps thickly cov^^ with trees to seaward, while inland it slopes away to lowlands. There is no point to localize this cape, the cliffs beiug abont 4 miles long and the shore nearly straight. It is steep-to, and the tidal currents strong off it. When the wind is ail north of the line of the reach there is less current within J mile of it than farther off.
Woods bay, 8 miles west of Snug bay, and protected Arom ttie pt^ vailing winds by the high land of cape Holland, is a convenient stop- ping place. Small vessels may enter the cove at the head of the bay by skirting round the edge of the kelp that extends about 200 jrm^s off the east extreme of the cape, but care must be tak^i to avoid the Esk rock, on which the depth is only 4 feet water. The best anchor- age for large vessels is in 8 to 10 or 11 fathoms, with the cape beaaring K 690 W. (West, mag.), distant 600 to 1,000 yards.
If proceeding to the inner anchorage, steer for the gap or lowland behind the cape, and as the south point is neared keep a hillock with a conspicuous clump of trees on it, at the inner end of the bay, hi line with a remarkable peak, 1 or 2 miles behind, bearing N. 24^ W. (N. 450 W. mag.), and anchor in 17 or 18 fathoms. The bank on the FE. side of the cove shoals suddenly, and must be avoided. When the stream is running to the eastward, a long vessel might find some diffi- culty in backing out clear of Boxer spit on the north side of the eove.
San Josef river empties itself into Woods bay and is clear &>r 2 miles within the entrance, beyond which it was not explored. It was then about 30 yards wide, running between banks abont 16 feet high, in thick forest, and is doubtless blocked by snags a little beyond this point.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Woods bay, at 34m.; springs rise 8 feet.
Cordes bay. — ^From Woods bay the shore trends in a westerly direction 12 miles to Gordes bay. In fine weather an anchor may be dropped in Andrews bay on the west side of cape Holland or near cape Coventry, about 4 miles farther west, but there is no shelter from the prevailing winds. Oordes bay may be known by Mussel island, a small, bright green island on the east side of the eatraBce, and sdso by mount Three Peaks, detached from the surrounding Mils at the head of the bay; the westernmost and highest of these i^eaks is 8,700 feet» The entrance between West point and Mussel island is nearly 4* mile wide between the reefs; from it the bay continues a mile, but is vmeh contracted by shoals covered with kelp. The bay has not been thoroughly examined. Temporary anchorage in 7 fathoms may be bad at the entrance, with Mussel island bearing N. 56° E, (N. 34° E. oaa#.) and West point N. 47° W. (N. 68° W. mag.).
PORT SAK MIGUEL— PASSAGE POINT. 83
t'ort San Iffiguel is a large lagoon opening from the head of Oordes bay, running in a KB. direction about 2 miled, and about § mile wide. The entrance to the lagoon is not safe for vessek drawing more than 6 feet.
Fortedcud bay id one of the best anchorages in the whole length of the strait. It is spacious, well sheltered, easy of access, and of mod- erate depth* It is not advisable to anchor too close to the west side, where the williwaws are more uncertain in their direction^ The holding ground also is not so good as in the eastern part of the bay.
Beacoxi. — A beacon 33 feet high, consisting of iron frame work pyramidal in shape and surmounted by a ball^ all painted white, stands a little inside of Southwest point.
Port Gkdlatit, the inner harbor, forms a snug little port, perfectly sheltered and with excellent anchorage in from 3 to 3^ fathoms^ bottom of mud. There are Only 2J fathoms in the channel at low water, but before entering the depth ought to be verified by soundings from a boat% The banks on the western side off the east shore of Wigwam island are but imperfectly known.
CautioiL-^Standing in for Fortescue bay give cape Gallant a good berth, as the western tidal stream^ during springs, sets strongly toward the cape, and the same care is necessary when rounding Peterel point if bound to the eastward, for the east^n stream sets directly toward and around it.
!lHdeSk — It is high water, fcQl and change, at port Gallant, at 34m. ^ springs rise 8 feet. Id this part of the strait, as the channel becomes narrowed by the islands, the tides are more felt and run as much as 3 miles an hour. It is reported that close in shore the stream runs con- trary to that in mid-channel.
Ckarlea lullands, between Fortescue bay and Barbara channel, consist of three principal and some smaller islands.
Opposite to cape Gallant, and on the eastern island of this groUp, near its FW. end, there is a conspicuous white rock named Wallis Mark.
Bay ai the Three Pasaea. — This bay is formed by the three great- est of the Charles islands, and may be Used for shelter in a contingency^ There is a shoal of 2 fathoms off Jacquinot point in mid-channel of the Northern {^ass, and there is a depth of about 32 fathoms in the center of the bay. Vessels enter by the Korth or West pass^ the Southeast pass being too narrow.
Wren island, the southeastern of the ^oup, is a small rocky islet risiiig abruptly in two pes&s. Near it to the SE. are the Oanoas, two single rocks above water. The next islands to the westward in succes- sion are Monmouth and James islands, with Bupert rocks and island. At I ^lle SW« of Wren island is a sunken rock.
Passage point, the east entrance point to EUzabeth bay, is 8 miles westward of cape Gallant. The 12-foot shoal off this point is well marked by kelp.
84 MAGELLAN STRAIT.
A rock with a depth of 2J fathoms over it lies with Passage point bearing N. 29o W. (N. 50o W. mag.) distant about 400 yards, at the tail of the kelp as charted. At slack water the kelp attached to the rock is visible.
Elizabeth bay has a fair anchorage about i mile from the eastern beach, in from 13 to 16 fathoms, sandy bottom. In easterly winds it is a very good anchorage, but it is open to the prevailing winds, which, however, do not throw in much of a sea. There is a remarkable bare patch on a hill over the anchorage, which, when coming from the west- ward, shows conspicuously, and should not be brought to bear eastward of N. 890 E. (N. 680 E. mag.), the line which clears the rocky ridge extending off from a low x>oint ^ mile west of the anchorage.
The tidal streams are not strong in the eastern part of this bay, but they develop quite a strength in the western part, where there is an indifferent anchorage in 14 or 15 fathoms near the edge of the kelp, about 260 yards from the beach.
Caution. — It is reported that Passage point extends with submerged isolated pinnacle rocks farther to the southward, in the channel of the reach, than shown on the chart. Therefore, in passing this locality vessels should give the point a good berth.
Tork road. 5 miles west of Elizabeth bay, is off the mouth of the Batchelor river. As the tides set strongly through both Crooked reach and Jerome channel, a vessel lying here in light winds will be sheared about most uncomfortably, and in strong winds it is subject to violent gusts down both these channels also; but for these objections there would seem to be a fair anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand and mud, with Batchelor river seen weU open. When anchoring or leaving the roads care must be taken to keep the river's mouth well ox>en until at least i mile off shore from the west point of the bay, as very shoal water extends a considerable distance from the point. With Elizabeth, Tilly, and Borja bays so near, York road is not recommended.
A rock awash, marked by kelp, lies about 200 yards from the eastern shore of York road, with Little Bonet island on the south shore of the strait bearing S. 72° W. (S. 51° W. mag.) and Batchelor river entrance K lOo W. (N. 310 W. mag.).
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in York road at 2h.; springs rise 9 feet. The set and change of the stream in this part of the strait are uncertain on account of the meeting of the waters of Jerome channel with those of the strait through English and Crooked reaches, which occasions many ripplings. The streams run about 3^ knots an hour. There is an eddy all along the north shore of the strait in this part.
Jerome channel— For description of this channel, Otway and Sky- ring waters, see page 112.
Anson rock, a dangerous pinnacle, on which the depth is 18 feet, with deep water close-to, lies well out in the strait abput 4 miles west
CARLOS III ISLAND— PORT BEAUBASIN. 85
of York road in the bend north of cape Crosstide. It is small in extent, and is marked by kelp, which shows only at slack water, as it is run under by the tide.
The south extreme of Borja island, in line with the nick in cape Quod bearing N. 83o W. (S. 76o W. mag.), leads south of Anson rock.
Carlos III island, separated from Ulloa peninsula by David sound and joined to Rupert island by a reef called Lucky Ledge, is high and covered with trees. The cove to the northward of Whale point, the southeastern extremity, has an anchorage in 15 fathoms, but the hold- ing ground is very bad.
Mussel bay, on the KE. shore of the island, is of considerable size and well sheltered, but the bottom is uneven and stony and the water deep. Dessant rocks, with one fathom over them, lie about 600 yards off the eastern point
Bonet islands, the highest of which is 136 feet above the sea, lies 2^ miles westward of Mussel bay off the north shore of Carlos III island. A shoal of 4 fathoms lies about 400 yards west of the larger Bonet island.
The neighborhood of Bonet islands is not adapted for anchorage, as there is no shelter and the water very deep, added to which the tidal streams between the islets are very strong.
Tilly bay, one mile east of cape Crosstide, is very conveniently placed for a vessel unable to stem the strong currents and violent squalls which often come with great force through Crooked reach and sweep around the cape. It is the first opening east of the cape. A moderate-sized vessel must anchor in the middle of the bay or a little farther in, where 18 to 20 fathoms, bottom of mud, will be found. When entering this bay great care must be paid to the helm, as the currents set strongly across the entrance. In this bay, as in many others of the western anchorages of the strait, there seem to be points of rocks projecting up through the mud.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tilly bay at Ih. 30m.; springs rise 6 feet. The description of the north shore of the strait is continued on page 100.
SOUTHERN SHORE— MAGDALEN SOUND TO CAPE PILLAR.
(H.O. Chart No. 445.)
Clarence island, on the south side of Froward reach, extends from Magdalen sound to the Barbara channel j and the whole length of its northern coast is indented by sounds stretching deeply into the island.
Port Beaubasin, at the western side of entrance of Magdalen sound, is sufficiently pointed out by the small rocky islet called Periagua, and by mount Vernal. The outer part of the port decreases in breadth gradually to the entrance of the harbor, which is formed by two project- ing points, a short distance apart, and is very shoal, the deepest water being only 2J fathoms. Inside, in the basin, there are 5 fathoms. It is
S6 MAGELLAN 8T9A11V— MOUNT FONIX
a vory snug plaee when onoe in, but iioesesaes no advantageyOiiioeitii on the wrong side of the strait for vessels bound to the westward, as the northerly wind, which would be favorable to proceed, would preyent a Teasel sailing out.
Inman bay, Hawkins bay, Staples inlet, and port Shell are all deep inlets, surrounded by high precipitous land.
Lyell aonnd penetrates 9 miles into Olarence island to the westward of Greenough peninsular, and is separated from port ShoU by a ridge of hills only 1^ miles wide. In the entrance of the sound are two con- spicQOus islands, though one of them is very small, called the Dos Hermanos, Kempe harbor, 1^ miles within the entrance of the sound, on the western side, is rather difficult of access, but perfectly secure. Stokes creeks on the same side and more to the southward, also offers good anchorage, but, from its being out of the way, ean be of no utility.
Masaredo hmj and Oaacade harbor are of less size, and therefore more attainable, but of the same character with Lyell sound, vis, deep water surrounded by high land. The latter is known by a cascade from which it derives its name.
Hidden harbor, at 1^ miles westward of Cascade harbor, has a narrow entrance, but if required offers a good shelter. It is not safe for vessels drawing over 10 feet. Just before opening into the harbor a ridge of rocks dries nearly across at low water, leaving to the north a passage 70 yards wide, thick with kelp^ and with 2| fathoms as deepest water in the center.
San Pedro sound extends in a southerly direction for nearly 13 miles, and has two inlets branching off into the land to the westward, and to the eastward a channel with a depth of 6 fathoms in the Narrows, join- ing the sound, with Dyneley bay. There is a small anchorage on its western side, 1^ miles within the entrance, called Murray cove, and another close to it, which is even more sheltered.
Murray cove is not fit for vessels more than 120 feet long. It is deep to the head, where there is anchorage in 16 fathoms, but a large kelp patch contracts the swinging room.
Fresh'water cove, at 4 miles westward of San Pedro Sound, is a confined and indifferent place.
Bradley Cove, on the western side of Bell bay, is a very convenient anchorage. It bears WSW. from Taylor pcnnt, the entrance point on the east side of the bay, and will be known by a small, green, round hillock that forms its north head. The anchorage is in 17 fathoms, and the vessel may be hauled in by stern fasts or a kedge into 9 fathoms in perfect safety.
Fond bay, on the west side of Bell bay entrance, has good shelter, but is too confined for anything but small sealing vessels.
lySount Fond, 2,500 feet high, is a conspicuous double-peaked hill, and is visible from the eastward as soon as it opeins off cape Froward.; the mount has a double summit, only one of which is visible from the eastward.
SmON BAY — DAVro SOUND. 87
Sinoii bay, 5 sailes west of Pond bay, is atudded with islands and rocks. To tho southwand it commanicates with the Barbara ehanneL on both sidea of Burgees island. The eaftternmost of these channels, named Toms pass, ia tolerably large, but, from tiie irregularity and foree of the tides, it i^ not to be preferred to the more direct i>a8sage through the Shag narrows on the western side of Oayetano island, for there is no good anohorage in St. Michael channel (which leads to it^ between St. Michael point and Oayetano), and it is bounded by a steep and precipitous coast. Gonzalez narrows, on the western side of Burgess ialand, is not more than 30 yards across, and, from the foree of the tide and tbe fall of the rapids, would be dangerous even for a boat to pass.
Slupton and MaUersh covas, on the eastern side of Simon bay, are both surrounded by high land, and the depths being great, neither of th^n afford anchorage. Off the head that divides them are the Castro islets, on the north side of the largest of which there is a couTenient oovQ with a moderate depth of water. In the Gastellano group there are five good-sised islands ; they lie in the center of the bay, but possess no anchorage.
lliUar acrra, on the east side of Gayetano island, at about 3 miles southward of Elyira point, the north extreme of the island, is the only good anchorage in Simon bay. It has three rocky islets off its entrance and a conspicuous mount on its eastern point. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms, good bottom, and entirely sheltered. Wood and water are plentiftil.
Part Langara, the next opening south of Millar cotc, is rather more than a mile long, | mile wide, and trends in a KW. direction. The water is deep, excepting at the head of the x>ort and in a cove on its northern shore, in either of which there is good anchorage. At the former the. depth is 8 fathoms and in the cove 5 fathoms.
Barbara channel See page 32.
Qhoiaaffd baj, situated 5 miles WW. of Barbara channel, does not seem to be in the least inviting. It is a large, deceptive bay, fuU of islets and patches of kelp, under which there are rocks, while between the islets the water is deep and unfit for anchorage. Fash bay, 4 miles to the KW., is equally unserviceable.
Wbala aoimd, on the south side of Ulloa peninsula, is the first opening west of Hash ba^, and runs westerly 8 miles, and terminates in a valley bounded on each side by high mountains. There is anchor- age only in one part of it, on the western side of Last harbor; and although this harbor appears large, the anchorage is small and close to the shore. Whale sound is too far out of tho way to be of use to the navigator.
I>amd soiuiid, between Garlos III island and Ulloa peninsula, has in its northern psurt deep water, but in the narrow part of the sound there are depths of 10 to 30 fathoms, and possibly an anchorage. In a passage like this, however, between high land the squalls would be violent and anchorage unsafe.
88 MAGELLAN STRAIT — SWALLOW BAT.
El Morion (the Helmet), formerly called San David head, on the XJlloa peninsula shore, at 2 miles BW. of cape Oroestide, is a granitic rock 1,100 feet high, the outer face of which is perpendicular, bare, and of a light-clay color. It may be distinguished for a considerable dis- tance from the westward, and forms an excellent landmark. El Morion is remarkable, also, for a large white patch on its face.
Crooked reach is comprised between the entrance of Jerome chan- nel and cape Quod. The coast and bays on its north side are described on page 100.
Butler bay is directly west of El Morion, and easily accessible to small craft. The anchorage is near the west shore of the bay oyer a rocky plateau covered more or less with mud, where vessels are shel- tered against the surf and wind. Fresh water may be obtained from a cascade behind the low hills which border the south coast of the bay.
Chance bay, the next opening west of Butler bay, looks like a good place at first sight, but the rocks and islets at the west end are all joined by kelp, being, in fact, a continuation of rocky ledges, rendering the anchorage unfit for a vessel of any size.
Mass bay is very deep. It shares also in the objection to other bays on the south side of this reach, that they are exposed to the full force of all the winds down Long reach.
Wliite bay has an anchorage in 15 fathoms, mud, for small vessels; it is perfectly secure.
Long reach extends from cape Quod to Havannah point, 36 miles in a northwesterly direction. The weather in this reach is frequently so thick that, although the distance across it is only 2 to 3 miles, one shore is found concealed from the other by the mist; but the rain squalls often blow along the land when it is comparatively clear in the middle.
There is less rain with the wind from the S W. quarter than the NW., but it is very capricious.
A clear, bright morning is usually followed by a stormy and wet day, the change generally setting in before noon.
Although such weather is common in all the western parts of the strait, and perhaps in Long reach more than in the others, the naviga- tion by a steamer presents little difficulty on tJhis account. The high land is commonly obscured, as well as the points at a distance of 2 or 3 miles, but they can almost always be seen sufficiently far off to avoid running on them, and between the driving squalls a view is generally obtained for some distance. The shores on either side of this reach are less verdant than to the eastward of cape Quod. The hills are generally bare of all vegetation above, but below they are covered with trees and shrubs, though not of large size.
Snow sound, on the south shore of Long reach, is of no importance to the navigator; it ends in two arms surrounded by high, perpendic- ular black rocks.
Sivallow bay is 1 J miles westward of Snow sound. The anchorage is under the eastern side of Carteret island, which separates Swallow
CONDESA BAY — HAVERGAL BAY. 89
and Condesa bays. On the west side of the entrance is Fitz-Roy rock, which covers some time before high water, and lies about 200 yards off Carteret island, but between this and the Wallis islets the passage is clear. After entering, the kelp marking Fisgard rocks will be seen 400 yards eastward of Duntze point, nearly in the middle of the bay, and may be passed on either side, the anchorage for large vessels being about 300 yards inside them. A smaller vessel will find anchorage off Grant point, or even farther up the bay.
The drawback to Swallow bay ia that the bottom is one of the rock- iest in the straits and the grinding of the cables excessive, and in consequence it is not recommended.
Swallow bay may be easily recognized by a large cascade falling down from the center of the mountains at* the head of the port, to the southward of which there are two higher mountains, the summit of the eastern being peaked and the western one rounded. Coming from the eastward it will be recognized as the next opening to Snow sound. The passage inside Carteret island between Swallow and Condesa bays is full of large bowlders, and is only navigable for boats.
Quantities of fish may be taken with a net in the small coves at the head of the bay.
Condesa bay has not nearly so much room in it as Swallow bay; the anchoring ground, obstructed by islets and rocks, is suitable for small vessels only.
Stevrart bay, at about one mile westward of Condesa bay, is so much obstructed by rocks as to be useless to large vessels. A patch of 2 fathoms lies nearly in the center of the entrance. • It is not to be recommended as an anchorage, for, though it is sufficiently sheltered from wind and sea, yet the rocks in different parts of it render the passage in and out very hazardous. Every danger in it is pointed out by rockweed, but it is so much narrowed thereby as to require the utmost vigilance.
Cape Hunter, about 3^ miles west of Stewart bay, is the east entrance point of Snowy inlet. It has a rock to the north of it close to shore.
Sno^Ty inlet trends to the southward and is about IJ miles wide. It is deep and as far as known the shores are clear. Its extent is not known.
A little over 3 miles up the western side of the inlet there is a large glacier, which descends from the snow field surrounding mount Whar- ton, 4,350 feet high, to within 150 feet of the sea level. It marks Hav- ergal bay.
Havergal bay is divided into two parts by Arthur island. There is anchorage in both the West and East bays, but the latter is by far the better. West bay, being the largest, was first used by the Sylvia, but experience showed that heavy williwaws occurred from opposite direc- tions, so that if anchored on the flat of 10 fathoms it was necessary, when allowing room for swinging, to have the anchor so near the edge
90 MAOTlJiAN STRAIT — ^ABATHOaN BAT.
of tbe deep T^ter tliat tbe bight <tf the Qhain was liable to eatoh when the vessel was sheering about. The flat is composed of moddy sand QTer loose stones, and did not seem good holding ground*
The water in the other part of this hay is inconveniently deep, bat there is stiff mud between the roeks at the bottom and the anchor will hold well.
Taeht bay, a cove in the West bay, is too small for anything larger than a schooner, and the holding ground is not overgood. A small leg of the glacier comes down a gully in the cliff S W. of Yadit bay, and the stream from this has pushed forward a flat delta, which spoils the bay.
East HuTargal bay.— ^oed anchorage was found in this bay in 22 fathoms, stiff black mud, with no rocks, and though the squalls also change their direction here from north to south, they were not so heavy as those in West bay, more immediately under the cliffis of mount Wharton. There is not much room to spare, but the wind always blows either in or out of the bay. It is, for a moderate-sized vessel, a fSftr better anchorage than Swallow bay, and it is well worth while turning down for a couple of miles to pass a quiet night if possible. A large vessel should go to Field anchorage on the opposite shore.
The entrance, nearly 200 yards wide, has a little kelp on the island side, off Johnson point, which is low.
The anchor should be dropped with Ling point in line, with the sum- mit of Moraine hill bearing a 30^ W. (3. 8<> W. mag.), and I^et-go point in Yacht bay seen just over the low isthmus in the center of Arthur island, bearing N. 67o W. (N. 79° W. mag.).
Oare must be taken to anchor in the right spot, as if too £ax up the cable will catch on the edge of the shoaler rocky ground.
With the wind northward of west in the strait, the squalls in Haver- gal bay will be from the northward; when well souiA of west, they will come from about south, and for the points immediately about west^ the wiUiwaws come from the north and south indiscriminately.
Ohink creek, the western entrance of Snowy inlet, and Humphrey cove, 1 J miles west of the inlet, are of no importance.
Radford hill is a conical mound and stands near the shorei Stella Island is farther up the coast, to tbe east of which is a small bight of no importance. It might afford anchorage for a small vessel; rocky bottom.
Arathocm bay, about opposite Glacier bay, is a large and deep open- ing with two arms. The western one is useless as an anchorage. Near the end of the eastern arm is Marsh basin, a considerable area of even, stony bottom, with light mad and 10 fathoms water over it. The entrance to this bay is wide, quite clear, and steep- to. Steer mid- chaunel until Doyle point is approached, when keep over on the star- board hand to clear the one-fathom rock to the eastward* This rock is marked by kelp, and there is a channel 400 yards wide between it and Doyle point.
MAB8H BASIN — KOOKY WUV!^. 9i
Kelp ^xte^^s Beariy J mUe SB. from Df ev patot »nd must b^ ayoidied. Henry point, at the entrcuioe to Marsh basing m free from OQtlyiu§^ danger, and the channel here is 300 yairds wJi(}e^ with 10 fatthoma lea^t water,
Mar9)i basiii is a mile ip length and. f mile w\i% and is anrroqndeid by lofty mountains.
The water in the basin is very deep, exeept in the SE. corner, wh^re there is anchorage in front of the entran^^ to an inner basin, wbioh is also deep. Steele islet is just inside the entrance of this inner basin and is covered with trees. It will be seen under a mass of glacier that has fallen from the cliffs of mount Wharton.
Wbito rocks off the east shore of the an^^orage are about 5 feet above water. Greek point is the point on the north side of the cove at the SW. corner of Marsh basin^
Anchorage. — ^The best position for anchoring is in 10 fathoms, with Steele islet seen clear of both points of the narrows to the inner basin bearing 8. SX^ B-. (S. 63Q E. ma^.) md White rocks 8, ago K (K 73o E, mag.).
Volage bay or Bates cove, to the eastward of Abra channel, is avail- able only to small craft. It is long and narrow and appeari;^ perfectly sheltered. The high mountains which border the bay rise nearly per* pendicular, which is an indication that the banks are steep and the entrance dear. In 1383 the French ship Volage anchored in 13 fathoms in about the middle of the bay. A narrow passage leads from the bay to the cove at its southern end, where there is excellent shelter. A creek, or rather a cascade, flows from a small lake baok of tho bay and empties into the cove*
Sea Shell or Abra Channel may possibly be of service to a vessel embayed in Otway bay, enabling her to run into the strait. Abra island, which stands in the center of the eastern entrance, is 300 feet high and covered with vegetation. The entrance is 2 miles wide, but it soon narrows to f mile.
Rock. — ^A rock with a depth of 1^ fathoms on it, and well marked with kelp, lies in the fairway of Abra channel, with center of Maycoek island bearing N. 56^ W. (N. 77^ W. magO? distant f mile, and summit of Francis island N, 32^ E. (N. lOo 13. mag,).
Village point, at the west entrance of Abra channel, so called on account of a collection of Fuegian wigwams in the little bight just, to the west, is a fine, bold headlands
Rooky inlets 3| miles west of Village point, is narrow. If miles long, and at the bottom of an open bay formed by the projection of Gasper X>oint.
Ellen islet, smaU and rocky, lies 1,200 yards south from Oasper point facing the entrance of Bocky inlet, and 1,200 yards eastward of Ellen islet is shoal ground with two rocks awash at low water. A vessel entering Eocky inlet should pass north of both Ellen islet and these rocks.
92 MAGELLAN STRAIT — PORT AN008T0.
Harry x>oin^9 ^^^ north entrance point to Bocky inlet, has kelp off it for more than 200 yards, to which a berth must be given. After passing Harry point the channel is quite clear.
The anchorage at the head of Kocky inlet is 300 yards wide, the depth of water where the anchors are dropped 17 and 13 fathoms, gravelly mad and shell, and a ship using it must moor to be safe. It will probably be but seldom entered, as it would be most likely better to run back to Playa Parda cove if Port Angosto can not be reached.
When the large waterfall on the south side bears S. 46o B. (S. 68° B. mag.), drop the first anchor midway between the two shores, and moor with 60 fathoms of chain on each anchor; with the other anchor also in mid-channel toward the head in about 13 fathoms. Williwaws are strong, but are either up or down channel.
The bight between Gasper point and Harry point is too deep and rocky for anchorage.
Underhill bay, 3 miles west of Casper point, has no anchorage in it. The cove on the north shore inside the island would do well enough for a schooner, but is rocky and too small for anything over 200 tons.
Cormorant inlet, at 1^ miles west of Underhill bay, is a large, strag- gling sheet of deep water, with no anchoring ground for a vessel larger than a sealing scliooner, except in Mostyn cove, at 3 miles within.
Pritchard islands are a group of small islets lying at the entrance of Cormorant inlet. Sealers anchor under the island and in a little bay west of Grave island, but in both places on foul ground.
Lewis bay, just west of Cormorant inlet, runs in a westerly direc- tion under mount Possession. It is too deep and small for anchorage.
Moystyn cove appears to be a very fair anchorage, but very little is known about it. To reach it, steer mid-channel into the inlet south of Wellard island, and after turning to the westward keep on the north shore, t>o avoid a large patch of rocks and kelp in the center of the inlet. The entrance is narrow, and kelp is found on both sides, but 6 fathoms was carried in and out by the Sylvia on two occasions. Though kelp lies off all the north shore inside, the opposite side is clear, and there seemed to be plenty of room to swing when at anchor.
The coast for 2 miles to Port Angosto is much broken up and indented, but no bay is large enough for anchorage except Brooke cove, which would give good protection to a small crafb.
Port Angosto affords good anchorage, with room enough for a large vessel, but for small craft it is not so comfortable as Playa Parda cove. As regards williwaws, there is not much to choose between them, as with gales from certain points the squalls are very heavy in both places. The bottom is rocky and uneven, having stiff clay in the inter- stices, in which the anchor holds well. In ordinary winds the puffs come from all directions, and the anchor may become very foul if a vessel remains.
When it is quiet it is perhaps better to lie with a short scope, to avoid
POET ANGOSTO— CANOE mLET. 93
foaling^ but if puffs commence the cables should be at once veered as much as the vesseFs length will allow, as the williwaws are quite strong enough to bring heavy strain on the gear.
Port Angosto'a weak point is to the south, and consequently it is winds from south of west that find their way in. The north shore of the harbor is so precipitous that no wind can come from that direction, consequently in bad weather a ship will always lie with her head to the southward or 8W., and care must be taken when anchoring not to let go too soon. During winter the head of the port is frozen over.
Thin streamers of kelp grow up from rocks in 9 fathoms for some distance west of the thick mass springing from the shallow water off Hoy point.
The south waterfall is always conspicuous, and is fed by a lake of considerable extent.
The best mark for Port Angosto is mount Possession, a conical mountain 1,635 feet in height, nearly separated from the ranges behind by a dip at the head of Lewis bay, and which generally stands well out in front of the other land. It is immediately to the eastward of Port Angosto, and a large beacon now stands on its summit.
Beacon. — A beacon, 8 feet high and surmounted by a red disk, is erected on Entry island.
DirectionB. — When entering port Angosto, steer a mid-channel course. Kelp, with a rock awash in it, extends 100 yards southeastward of Entry island, a small, moss-covered islet on the north side of the entrance. Kelp also extends off Wise point, the south-entrance point. On passing Passage island the large waterfall will be seen. This is the southern of the two cascades marked in the plan (the other is some- times a mere trickle), and on rounding Hoy point can be steered for on a bearing of 8. 61^ W. (S. 39^ W. mag.) for the anchorage in 15 fath- oms. A cast of 8 fathoms may very likely be got just before arriving on the spot, and if the anchor is being eased down, care must be taken that it is not lowered too far before this ridge is passed, or the anchor may catch.
The anchor should be placed as nearly as possible in the position indicated on the plan. A bearing of the second projection south of Hoy point, a smooth, low piece of rock, will be found convenient to check the position for bringing up. When the anchor is let go. Hoy point should be iu line with the south extreme of Passage island.
In the winter months ice forms in the interior harbor to an extent rendering the free handling of vessels impossible.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Oh. 40m.; springs rise 4 feet.
Half Port bay is a small indentation one mile west of Port Angosto and immediately east of Ganoe inlet.
Canoe inlet is very deep until the hammer-shaped head is reached, but the entrance to this, east of the island that nearly blocks the pas- sage, is very narrow, and the basins iuside are too confined for anything
94 MAGELLAN STHAIT-HroBDOVA PAfiS.
bat afimall vessel. Th« western basin is barred by tooks Mid kelp; tbe center x^ne has a rockj bottom, but the eastern one, having a maddy bottom in 6 fathoms, would be good for small craft.
Bavia point has a rather remarkable conical-shaped mossy hill at its e:stremity, 125 feet high. A rock awash and snrronnded by kelp lies abont 206 yards to the u<»*thward and eastward of tiie point.
Indian tnlet» the next opening, is deep and ns^ess to navigation.
Byron bfty, under cape Monday, is too confined for other than small schooners* They will find shelt^ by anchoring close under the cai>e. The bottom is rocky and a kelp patch with 5 &thoms lies dOO yards west of the islet oif the eastern point.
Cape Monday is a bold cape forming the western limit of Long reach. The flat sommit of tlie ridge which forms it and which drops abruptly to the sea is 925 feet high.
Sea reaoh, forming the western portion of Magellan strait, runs UW. by W. and SB. by E. for 58 miles. On the northern shore, between capes Tamar and Philip, it opens into Smyth channel, and tiience by other channels into the gulf of PefLas. In a heavy gale or strong breeze a short sea may be experienced in the wider parts of the strait^ especisdiy westward of cape Froward, but on opening this reach a heavy swell will be met coming from the Pacific. This will be found to a certain extent even on the cs^mest days, and with strong westerly winds it becomes a serious drawback, giving a good indicc^ion of what may be expected outside.
It has been remarked that the south^m side of Sea reach is the most rainy.
Medal bay is a small port one mile west of cape Monday.
It has a small island at the entrance which forms two channels, the easternmost of which is only deep enough for boats, but the western is 25 fathoms wide. It is strewed half way across with kelp, but between the kelp and the island is a very narrow passage of 6 fathoms. In the kelp is 3 £athoms, and inside the port the depth is 9, 8, and 7 fittfaoms, sandy bottom, with 4 fathoms at the sides.
The port is semicircular, of about 300 yards in diameter, and there- fore too small to be of service to modem vessels, to say nothing of the narrowness of the entrance.
At the bottom of the bay, between cai)e Monday and Medal bay, is a similar but still smaller haven, wiCh an entrance just wide enough to admit a boat.
Cordova island, 715 foet high, lying at the entrance of Oordova mlet, is rocky, and 4 miles west of cape Monday. On its northern point is a remarkable hillock named Conway knob.
Luiz cove, a two^^armed bight in the north shore, is deep and useless as an anchorage.
Cordova pass, leading eastward of Oordova island into Oordova inlet, is i mile wide at the entrance, narrowing to | mile at the sduth point of the island.
COBDOYA INLET — SENTINEL ISLAND. 95
A small islet lies a little to the eastirard of raid-diaanel, and aoxne rocks beyond it are still nearer the eastern shore at the narrowest part.
Anchorage may be found off a neck near the south point of Oordoya island in 19 fathoms^ but the bottom is rocky and the bank ste^^ aad in all probability it wo^ld be a dang^erous places
Kelp lve& off the south point of 0<»rdova idand, but there are 20 fathoms in mid-channel.
Cordova inlet, a wide and long soAnd trending to the southi^ard, is one mile wide at the entrance, but narrows to ^ mile 3 miles inside, again widening to the southward.
It is very deep, and the western shore is indented by bays, but tMy are all unfit for anchorage. The inner part has not been examined.
Baker cove apx>ears well sh^tered and series as a harbor, but is anything but a quiet one, for the entrance facing the N W. lets in the furious gusts from that quarter, and once in they seem quadrui^ed in force, so that it can not be recommended, but may, perhaps, afbrd a berth to some belated small vessel.
The entrance is one mile south of Oordova passage on the east side of Cordova inlet, and is about 100 yards wide, with an abrupt wall of cliff on the south side. On the north is also a steep mounitain side, but two short low points form the actual coast line.
A ship should moor, on account of the liability to foul the anchor more than firom want of room^ dropping the first anchor in the cent^ of the basin in 14 fathoms, with the entrance pmnts just touching and the other toward the head of the cove in 10 £a.thoms. With S W. winds the gusts are from the north, being deflected by the mountains. With a strong W!NW. wind it would not be agreeable for a stranger to run in through the narrow entrance with the wind aft.
Williwaw bay, on the west side of Oordova inlet, 5 miles within the entrance, has two arms inclosed by steep and lofty mountains. It is not a safe anchorage.
Upright bay, between Cordova inlet and cape Upright, at 2^ miles west of it, is to be avoided. The bottom is rocky and irregular, and several patches of kelp with rocks in them were found in it.
Port Upright is at the head of Upright bay, and having a bad entrance, deep water, and rocky bottom, can not be considered a fit place for a vessel.
Delusion bay, on the eastern side of Upright bay, is too deep to be of use.
Cape Upright^ a flat-topped and square-faced headland, 880 feet high, is the termination of a promontory which separates Oordova inlet and Wallis sound. Several islets and rocks lie around it,
SentUiel island, 62 feet high, is small and rocky, and lies 700 yards east of cape Upright.
It shows just clear of the cape to a vessel approaching fi^m either an east or west direction when on the south side of the strait. Foul ground extends 200 yards firom the island.
96 ICAGELLAN STBAIT — ^POET CHUBRUCA.
Ildefonzo bay is an indentation on the north face of the Upright promontory, and is | mile across. A line of rock rons out fron its cen- ter, terminating in Midge rock, 10 feet above high water and 600 yards outside the west point of Ildefonzo bay.
It is not fit for anchorage.
Alquilqua is the name of the bight included between cape Upright and Santa Gasilda point. The shore is much broken up and indented, with rocks and islets off it. Oft* them* the tidal currents cause much rough water and rippliugs, and this, combined with the fact that the wind generally draws in toward the shore, makes it an undesirable locality.
Coughtry islands, west of the Upright promontory, are mostly low, but one rises in a rounded hill to 165 feet. They are from ^ to 1^ miles offshore, with rocks awash off their seaward face.
Wallis sound runs into the land to the SE. from the eastern part of Alquilqua bay. The sound has two bays on its western shore, but they are too deep to be of service, having also rocky bottoms and patches of kelp.
A patch of rock which nearly always shows or breaks lies midway between the Coughtry and Chapman islands, in the fairway into Wallis sound.
Chapman islands cover a space of 2 miles in the western part of Alquilqua bay. They are generally about 100 feet high, and on the strait side seem steep-to and clear of danger.
Fort Uriarte, at the western end of Alquilqua bay, from the entrance being narrowed by a rock in the middle and from the amount of kelp scattered about in it, is not to be recommended.
Santa Casilda point is low, but immediately backed by a steep mountain.
Fuchachailgua is one of Sarmiento's Indian names, and is appa- rently identical with Cordova's Canal de la Tempestad. It is a long, narrow, and deep inlet, and is quite useless.
Echinique point, at the western entrance of Fuchachailgua inlet, is backed by precipitous mountains.
Port Santa Monica is a small port with a very narrow entrance. A boat or small schooner drawing not more than 6 feet can enter it, and once inside, will be in a small basin with 7 fathoms of water.
Fort Chnrruca, 12 miles WKW. of cape Upright, is surrounded by high mountains with bare precipitous sides. Mount Hart Dyke, 3,500 feet high, at 4 miles westward of port Churruca, is covered with snow, and wh^n abreast the port, if clear, one of the glaciers from this will be seen high in the mountains overhanging one of the creeks of the port on the western side, with mount Campbell, a very sharp peak 2,644 feet high, just to the left of it, and up the inlet of Churruca.
Mount Cunningham, 2,542 feet high, in the first line of mountains on the eastern side of the entrance, is also a remarkable sharp peak as seen from the north and east, and is further to be distinguished by
NASSAU ANCHORAaE — DARBY COVE. 97
another peak of almost the same shape and height a mile to the eastward of it.
The grandeur of the scenery in the inner basins is scarcely to be sur- passed, but the gloom caused by the height of the precipices, the color of the bare slate rock, and the almost continual pall of cloud that rests on the higher peaks is most depressing.
The port is more than usually rainy, and frequently it is enveloped in mist and rain. Nassau anchorage has a little more space than is found in Port Tamar. Eeports from various officers who have of late years visited Port Oherruca recommend it as an anchorage, and state that it is to be preferred to Port Tamar. Oldfield anchorage is very cramped, and should the williwaws be long and strong, there is scarcely room to swing.
When there are bad williwaws at one anchorage the other enjoys immunity from them, and there doubtless are many days in which a calm will prevail at both anchorages.
Passing in mid-channel through the entrance, Diegues island, off the outer point, will be seen on the starboard beam, and Diaz island, off the first inner point, a little on the starboard bow. Oarranza islands will be ahead, and the channel west of them, through the first narrows, will not open until nearly abreast Diaz island. A little farther, Casilda island, small, will be seen in mid-channel, and should be left to star- board. The first inner basin will now open, with Oldfield anchorage on the port hand and a long arm lined with cliffs to starboard. Continue a south course, and passing through another narrow 300 yards wide, Nassau anchorage, the second inner basin, is reached. Holland point, the west entrance point, has a shoal with 15 feet over it extending nearly 100 yards into this entrance.
Nassau anchorage has a very uneven rocky bottom. After bottom is obtained with the lead the anchor may be placed near the position marked on the chart, but it is almost impossible to say what depth may be found. The height of the cliffs to the south and west will make that shore seem much closer than it really is.
The islet north of Digby point, just showing west of the latter, is a good line, and a bearing of one of the points leading to the Lobo arm will check the distance in. The eastern part of the anchorage is very deep.
Oldfield anchorage is at the east corner of the first basin. A vessel should steer in on an east course for the south point of the bay, and anchor in about 18 fathoms when the point on the starboard beam bears about south. There is not room for a large vessel at this berth on a squally day.
Darby cove, about | mile west of Port Ohurruca, has a rocky bot- tom, judging by the amount of kelp in it. It is not large enough for anything but a small craft.
The coast, west of Port Ohurruca, is for 2 miles broken into, a 1943— No. 89 7
98 MAGELLAN STRAIT — ^TUESDAY BAY.
succession of bays, with low rocky promontories between them. None of them afford shelter to large vessels.
WodsiT^orth bay, 4 miles west of Port Gharmca, is similar in plan, though on a smaller scale, and with no anchorage worth much mention. Its entrance is i mile wide.
The highest waterfall in the main strait, 1,000 feet, falls into Wods- worth bay, and is visible from the strait.
The coast west of Wodsworth bay is fronted with islands and rocks for 2 miles, one of the latter being i mile from the shore.
Feliz bay, under Felix point, is large, but open to prevailing winds, and, from the kelp in it, of a rocky bottom.
FeUx point, 8 miles west of Port Churruca, shows well on approach- ing from either side. It makes as a ridge with two x)eaks on it, the southern being the higher; the other, just above the iK)int, is 630 feet high. Eocks and foul ground stretch off Felix point for 400 yards.
Valentine harbor, at 6 miles west of Felix point, has a narrow entrance between kelp-covered rocks, and the anchorage very con- fined. Hauling round cape Valentine, there are some islets extending i mile from it, with several rocks off them, which, however, are all marked by kelp.
Cape Cuevas, about 2 miles If W. of cape Valentine, is the extrem- ity of an island close to the shore, and about 450 feet high. To the eastward, between the two capes, the coast forms a bay studded with islands, while to the westward it is broken into several small bays.
Truzillo bay, at 3 miles west of cape Cuevas, is the first good anchorage west of Port Ohurruca. It is well sheltered, but has deep water rather near the shore, and did not seem so good as Tuesday bay, which is close-to.
Tuesday bay, the next bay westward of Tru?illo, is well sheltered, and easy of access for the largest steamers, though the entrance is rather narrow for a sailing vessel to work in. Gape Cortado, which may be said to form its western entrance, is unmistakable and marks the port well.
Vessels proceeding westward should not pass Tuesday bay without a certainty of well clearing the strait before night, as it is the western- most safe port, and only 13 miles from cape Pillar.
There is a passage on either side of Kodales islets, a cluster sur- rounded by foul ground in the middle of the entrance, but that to the northward is the straighter and better of the two. These islets are 36 feet high, and will be seen for some distance outside, and the Quar- termasters off the north entrance point always break. There is anchor- age in St. Joseph bay, but it is very deep, except close to the shore and the best berth for a large vessel is in 20 to 22 fathoms on the south side of the bay, and for small craft, in Christmas anchorage, between the kelp at the western extremity, in front of a small sandy beach. The holding ground is not good.
TUESDAY COVE — ^PORT MERCY. 99
The Sylvia anchored in 20 fathoms, J mUe S. 80o E. (N. 78o E. mag.) off Cascade point.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tuesday bay at Ih.; springs rise 6 feet.
Tuesday cove, immediately outside Tuesday bay, is well sheltered and might do for sealers, but is altogether too small for anything larger.
Cape Cortado (cut off) is a perpendicular rock well deserving its name. It is quite steep-to. This cape is unmistakable going either way along the southern shore, and if a vessel is far out in the strait a remarkable needle mountain, over the head of Port Tuesday, marks it well.
Coast. — From this to cape Pillar the coast the whole way is foul and dangerous. Eocks above water extend off Mercy harbor to a distance of 2 or 3 miles, and a wide berth should therefore be given. Going to the westward from Tuesday bay a vessel should not steer westward of N. 340 W. (K. 560 W. mag.) until she has passed Port Mercy; and com- ing from sea should be very careful not to get down on the southern shore. If the land be visible, cape Cuevas should be kept outside cape Cortado, or Cortado never brought to bear eastward of S. 34^ E. (8. 56^ E. mag.). After passing Mercy harbor, Cortado will show as a near extreme, and cape Cuevas, though really an island, as said, shows like a promontory joined to the mainland by a low neck, over which will be seen another point which projects beyond it.
Hamilton head, 2 miles west of cape Cortado, is an abrupt cliff headland. It is similar in profile to cape Cortado, but not quite so per- pendicular. It is much higher, and, projecting farther into the strait, shows as the extreme when seen from the eastward unless very close to the shore, Cortado being to the left. Coming from the west, the latter is more conspicuous.
Skyring harbor, 3 mUes west of cape Cortado, is perfectly sheltered when once inside, but there are several rocks off its entrance and it is very narrow and confined. Having got in there on one occasion in the Nassau during a heavy gale, great difficulty was experienced in getting out again, owing to the limited space and the fury of the williwaws.
Fort Mercy. — At 3J miles westward from the western point of Sky- ring harbor is Mercy head, the eastern point of entrance of the harbor of that name. This port, the Puerto de la Misericordia of Sarmiento and the Spanish harbor of Wallis, is the most dangerous harbor in the whole strait and one to be carefully avoided. When once inside the port the anchorage is fair, but the off-lying dangers are such as to ren- der its entry extremely hazardous.
With such a good harbor as Tuesday bay within 9 miles no vessel is justified in going into port Mercy.
In 1857 the Chilean Government sent the steamer Afaria Isabella to relieve the crew of a bark which had been wrecked here, and the steamer was also wrecked in the entrance. H. M, S. ISutlej, in February,
100 MAGELLAN STRAIT— CBOOKED BOCK.
1863, having got in safely, was almost lost inside. Still later, in 18^, the P. S. N. Company's steamer Santiaffo was lost on a rock outside those marked on the chart of that time, and on which the Nassau nar- rowly escaped being lost a fortnight before. Should circumstances, however, render it necessary to enter this dangerous place, abreast the first bight ronnd Misericordia point is as good a bertk as any other.
Here, as in many ports, it will not be found advisable to get too close up to the weather corner of the harbor with a view of being shel- tered from the strength of the squalls, as they are usually less felt when a little farther off.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Mercy at Ih. 22m.; springs rise 4 feet.
Cape Pillar, the south point of the western entrance of Magellan strait, is a high cape showing from the eastward as a double nipple. See page 38.
CROOKED, LONG, AND SEA REACHES— NORTH SHORE— JEROME
CHANNEL TO WESTERN ENTRANCE.
Crooked reach. — For south shore see page 88.
Boxja bay. — From St. Jerome point the shore trends westerly 4 miles to Borja bay, which may be known by Borja island, off the west entrance point of the bay. The afichorage is sheltered from the westerly and southwesterly gales which usually prevail, and is open only to south- easterly winds, which very rarely blow here, and still more rarely with violence. No surf or swell obstructs the landing anywhere, and there is plenty of wood and water. A number of boards with ships' names upon them will be seen on the eastern side of the bay near a rivulet, and these form a good mark for picking up an anchorage by not bring- ing them eastward of K. 77^ E. (K 56^ E. mag.). The shores of the bay may be approached to 100 yards close to the edge of the kelp. The williwaws are at times very heavy, but they need not be feared, as there is no sea and the holding ground is excellent. Vessels over 300 feet long occupy nearly the whole of the bay when swinging.
As vessels nearly always ride head to the northward of west in this bay, long ships find little difficulty in backing out into the strait.
Directions. — In a long steamer, stand in slowly, midway between Isabel point and Despair island, steering N. 41^ W. (N. 62^ W. mag.) for the head of the bay, until Little Borja island opens well out west- ward of the largest of the eastern low-lying groups of Ortiz islands bearing S. 21° W. (S. mag.) (the vessel's bow will then be in 14 or 16 fathoms and the stern in 24), when the anchor should be let go, veering to about 75 fathoms, on account of the sudden gusts.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Borja bay at Ih. 15m. ; springs rise 5 feet.
Crooked rock, between Borja bay and cape Quod, has 3 feet water on it, with 4 to 6 fathoms at the distance of 100 yards on its east and south sides. It is marked by kelp, but vessels running during the
CAPE QUOD — GUIRIOR BAY. 101
night, or by day in thick weather, should keep well over on the south- ern shore where no danger exists. From the center of this rock, the north extreme of Little Borja island (distance 1,400 yards) is in line with south ex.treme of Big Borja island, bearing N. 77^ E. (N. 56^ E. mag.). The summits of the Borja islands in line, N. 60^ E. (N. 39^ E. mag.), lead about 400 yards eastward of the rock, and Beware island, seen well open south of cape Quod, leads south of it.
The cove^Bahia de Cimeros (Swan bay) and the Ancona de Tamasco of the Spaniards, between Borja bay and cape Quod, are not suitable anchorages.
Cape Quod, 2 miles west of Borja island, is 800 feet high, and is unmistakable when coming from the eastward j but when from the westward at night or thick weather, care must be taken not to mistake False Cape Quod for it. The capes are very similar, but cape Quod has a small island, named Beware, 25 feet high, about J mile west of it.
Long reach and south shore. — See page 88.
Barcelo bay, the next opening west of cape Quod, has no safe anchorage. The west part is too small, and has a kelp patch nearly in the middle, while the east part is open and deep, having 25 fathoms close in among the kelp, and too close to the beach to be of any use. The easternmost part of all has a sandy beach at its head, but it is quite exposed.
Osorno bay, about one mile west of Barcelo bay, is of no service, being too deep, as well as open to all westerly winds.
Langara bay, the next to the westward, is small, and the bottom is muddy sand over rocks; it can not be recommended even as a stopping place.
Lion sound, at IJ miles west of Langara bay, extends 2J miles in a northeasterly direction, and terminates in a small basin, in which there is a depth of 12 fathoms.
Arce bay, the next opening west of Lion sound, is i mile across the entrance and nearly J mile deep, with 6 to 18 fathoms water. On the east side of the bay an arm extends in a northeasterly direction ^ mile, near the entrance to which lie two small islands.
G-ood LuQk bay, | mile west of Arce bay, affords anchorage in 15 fathoms, but the holding ground is not good, and there is no shelter from southerly winds. A small islet lies off the west point of the bay, to which it is joined at low water. Foul ground marked by kelp extends SE. of the islet.
Vallena cove, at 2 miles NNW. of Good Luck bay, is exposed to the SW. Tt has not yet been examined for anchorage. With the usual winds it is under the lee of cape Notch, and possibly a ship might anchor there.
Guirior bay, between Vallena cove and cape N^otch, extends 2J miles north, and is about one mile wide. There is no possibility of anchor- ing, except in the bight at the extreme head, off' a low waterfall, that is visible as a white spot from the strait. Here, northward of a patch
102 MAGELLAN STRAIT — CHANNEL BOCK
of kelp covering a one-fathom rock, is a muddy bottom at 26 fatlioms, but there is not room for any but the smallest craft. The deep passage is to the eastward of the kelp.
Cape Notch is very remarkable when passing either way. A per- pendicular mass of rock 590 feet high rises from the shore on the side of the ridge forming the peninsula, from which it is separated by a deep notch. The shore of the cape is steep-to.
Skinner islets, i mile off the western shore of Notch peninsula, are four in number, and little more than rocks. A sunken rock marked by kelp lies 300 yards westward of them.
Pauline bay, between the Notch peninsula and Hill point, is so foul and rocky that it would be most unadvisable to anchor. At the bot- tom of this bay, NW. of the peninsula, is the entrance to Notch cove. Ohope island, 80 feet high, is in the center of the bay, and being cov- ered with thick moss and grass always shows green. The peninsula NW. of the island is high and rocky and shows like an island from all directions.
Notch cove is a most perfect harbor, but the entrance is somewhat intricate; it is not therefore suitable for a mere stopping place for the night, but in case of repairs being necessary to a vessel not over 230 feet in length, it is probably the best place in the western part of the strait.
Southerly point, at the entrance of Notch cove, and the islets off it form an outer narrow 200 yards from shore to shore, with a navigable channel 80 yards wide, with 6 fathoms least water, the edges of which are clearly marked by kelp.
Steering through this narrow a large and deep basin will be entered in which there is no anchorage, with a line of small islands across the entrance to the inner harbor.
The inner narrow is between the eastern one of the small islands (Westley) and the mainland. The passage is 200 yards wide, but Chan- nel rock, with only 2 feet of water over it at low water, lies nearly in the center. This can be passed on either side, but the channel to the eastward is the best one.
Channel rock does not show and generally has no kelp on it, though 4 or 5 fathom places in the channel are marked by kelp. The rock is very small, with 5 and 6 fathoms water close to it all round. The shore on the eastern side is fairly steep-to, and kelp marks the limit of about 4 fathoms very well.
Leading mark. — When the eastern extremity of Westley island bears about North (N. 22^ E.) a small wooded island (Max) will open out inside the narrows. On the peninsula behind it are several rounded hills, the highest of which (Dome hill, 166 feet high) may be readily dis- tinguished. Beacon mound, the next summit to the right of and a little in front and lower than Dome hill, kept in line with a remarkable white patch on a low cliff at the water's edge N. lOo W. (N. 32o W.
HILL POINT — PLAYA PARDA COVE. 103
mag.), will lead eastward of Channel rock in 5 fathoms water. Dome hill, kept a little open of the right extreme of Max island, will also clear the rock.
It would be advisable for a stranger to anchor a boat on Channel rock before attempting the narrows.
When Levy point is abeam, steer for the passage between Max and Westley islands, which is quite clear.
After passing Max island keep a little to starboard to avoid a rock 70 yards off the middle of Lally island, and then steer mid-channel, rounding Proctor point in the same manner, when the harbor will open out. Anchor in the center of the cove in 12 fathoms water, mud bot- tom, with Maunder point bearing East (S. 68^ E. mag.).
Kelp, with shoal water, stretches offshore a little north of Proctor point, which is avoided in a mid-channel course.
The passages between the other islands are shoal.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in iSTotch cove at Ih. ; springs rise 5 feet.
Hill Pointi between Pauline and Glacier bays, is steep and bold.
Glacier bay is an indentation If miles deep and about § mile wide. Eock island, bare, divides the bay into an inner portion, which is very deep, and therefore useless, and an outer bay, Field anchorage, which, though open to the SW., affords a good berth to a passing vessel.
Field anchorage affords a large area of anchoring ground. Some small islands lie in the middle toward the KW. shore, and between them and the southern side is a smooth sand and mud bottom, with from 6 to 12 fathoms water. It is quite easy of access, there is plenty of room, and the holding ground is good.
It is open to the SW., but no sea rolls in, and the absolute immunity from Willi waws makes it as quiet an anchorage as any in the strait.
Little point, in line with the summit of Eock island, on a bearing BT. 720 E. (N. 50O E. mag.), leads in clear to the anchorage. The anchor should be let go on this line when the rocks to the south of Hat island are in line with the west extremity of Boyce island, bearing N. 12° W. (N. 340 W. mag.).
On entering, the first depth will be about 6 or 7 fathoms for a distance of 400 yards, when it will suddenly deepen to 12 fathoms as the anchor- age place is reached. An inside berth in 12 fathoms is better than one farther out, as it is more protected and the holding ground is stiffer.
Ginn cove, about 4 miles NNW. of Field anchorage, is small, and affords no shelter. A deep ravine extends back into the hills from Ginn cove, up which the lower part of a glacier may be seen. The range at the back of this part of the coast is crowned with perpetual snow, and culminates in mount Wyndham, 4,000 feet high.
Flaya Farda cove, the entrance to which lies IJ miles NW. of
* Ginn cove, has an inner anchorage land locked and well sheltered, but
very confined, with depths of 6f to 6J fathoms, mud. Many winds
104 MAGELLAN STRAIT — STAR COVE.
pass harmlessly overhead, leaving the cove in perfect calm, but, like all the landlocked harbors, it has its weak points, and cases have been known of the williwaws being furious and from all directions. It should not, therefore, be used by a vessel over 180 feet in length unless absolutely necessary.
When the winds inside are light they are from different quarters, but it is not necessary to moor for one night only; and as a steamer will have her fires banked, another anchor can always be dropi>ed where required.
Middle point, on the east side of the cove, just within the entrance, is steep-to, and should be kept aboard when entering, the opposite side being rocky and more shallow.
The east entrance point to the inner anchorage is also steep-to, and should be kept aboard to avoid Svetland rock, a pinnacle nearly in mid-channel, with 16 feet on it, 25 and 27 feet close-to, and 6J fathoms between it and the eastern point of entrance.
The width from shore to shore here is only 80 yards, and the naviga- ble passage 40 yards for vessels that can not pass over Svetland rock.
Anchorages. — The outer anchorage, south of Middle point, is very
rocky and should not be used. The inner anchorage is in about (i
. fathoms, with Wooding point on the west side of the entrance, or the
rocks awash north of it, seen well open of the eastern x)oint of the
narrows.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Playa Parda cove at Ih. 8m.
Flaya Farda inlet extends from the entrance to Playa Parda cove in a northwesterly direction 2 miles, and is J mile wide, with deep water throughout. The sandy beach, with flat land behind at the head, looks as if it should be fronted by shallow water, but the water is, on the contrary, deep to within 100 yards.
Shelter island is conspicuous. Standing well out from the land on the west side of the entrance of Playa Parda inlet, it has a well-marked summit 385 feet high, and is (covered with vegetation.
There are depths of 19 to 42 fathoms close around the island, but the channel to the NW. has not been suflBciently examined to be certain that it is clear of danger.
Turtle rock, above water, lies nearly J mile from the NE. side of the island, and a rock nearly awash, buoyed by kelp, lies 600 yards from the NW. point of the island.
Marion cove, 1^ miles west of Shelter island, is very small, but is well protected. The water is so deep that there is scarcely room for even a small vessel to veer enough cable to be safe. The bottom is irregular and rocky, with depths from 24 to 30 fathoms, where a vessel might anchor.
Star cove, IJ miles west of Marion cove, is useless as a port, being too small and much encumbered by rocks.
POLLARD COVE — ^RICHARDSON ISLAND. 105
Pollard cove, 3 miles westward of Star cove, is also too narrow and steep for an anchorage. It is 1 J miles long and 400 yards wide, running into the land in a northeasterly direction.
Cape Cooper Key, just westward of Pollard cove, is rounded, so that from abreast it can not be localized, but it appears a conspicuous, bold headland when approaching it from either way, and more espe- cially from the eastward, after rounding cape Quod, it will be visible in clear weather as the apparent termination of Long reach.
From about Star cove the hills assume an even more desolate aspect than before. A little westward of cape Cooper Key the hills on the shore line dip to a comparatively low peninsula, which forms Bell bay.
Bell bay is too deep and rocky for an anchorage.
Hannant bay, just west of Bell bay, has deep water all over it. At the head of this bay sealing vessels anchor among the kelp, but nothing larger can use it.
Among the rocky summits NE. of Hannant bay there is one crag of a distinctly darker tint than the others, whose general color is a light gray.
Black rock, just awash at high water, lies J mile offshore off the west point of Hannant bay, and is marked by kelp. The west end of Santa Anna islands kept open off the extremity of Havannah point will clear it to the southward.
Havannah point, the northwestern limit of Long reach, is a sloping point of bare white rocks. A rock awash lies close to the shore off its southwestern extremity.
Light proposed. — A lighthouse is proposed for Havannah point.
Sea reach and south shore. — See page 94.
Santa Anna islands, in the entrance to the gulf of Xaultegua, have their shores steep-to and appear free from dangers 5 they are com- posed of bare and very white granite. Their summit is 890 feet above the sea.
Bla2:land island, a small rocky island partly covered with moss, is between the Santa Anna islands and Havannah point. It is 100 feet high and steepto on the west side, but rocks extend a short distance from its east and northeast sides.
MnfLoz G-amera peninsula (King William IV land) forms the north shore of this reach. It presents a succession of high jagged peaks over 3,000 feet high with deep ravines and precipitous cliffs. There are several inlets, but all are too deep and narrow to be of any service.
Richardson island, the largest and most conspicuous of a group lying off Munoz Gamera peninsula, is If miles long, and is mostly low, but has two hills. The southern, 325 feet high, appears conical from the east. The northern is a square-topped hill, 380 feet high. The island is everywhere covered with deep moss with low tangled trees on the sheltered sides. Islets and rocky shoals extend one mile in a south- easterly direction from the island, but the latter is marked by kelp.
106 MAGELLAN STRAIT— CAPE PROVroENCE.
Cripples channel is the passage between Bicbardson island and the mainland. It is useful for a low-i)owered vessel tbat can not contend with the wind and sea, so often found in sea reach.
It is the beginning of a smooth-water route to port Tamar, pass- ing north of Providence island. The channel (3 miles long) has an average width of 600 yards, but is only 300 yards wide in the narrowest part, which is quite clean and deep. At the eastern end there are many kelp patches off either shore, but these are all visible and can be avoided by keeping a mid-channel course.
The water is too deep for convenient anchorage, but the Sylvia rode out a heavy gale anchored in 35 fathoms, with the north hill of Rich- ardson island bearing West (S. 68^ W. mag.). The wind was steady without squalls. The kelp patches SE. of Richardson island are the principal dangers to be avoided, and approaching from the SE., the left part of the northern hill of Richardson island (square-topped) in line with Webb point bearing K. 43^ W. (N. 65° W. mag.), will lead up clear. When abreast the islets SE. of Richardson island keep mid- channel.
There is a 4-fathom patch, marked by kelp on the south shore of the narrows, but by keeping in mid-channel it is easily avoided.
Maze islands, KW. from Richardson island, with an unnavigable channel between, are, as their name denotes, a labyrinth of islands and rocks. A conical hill, 220 feet high, rises at the eastern end. The remainder of the group are low, especially at the western part.
Big island is a rocky mass 670 feet high, one mile north of Cummins point, the north point of Cripples channel.
The Inshore passage, KW. of Cripples channel, is between Pike and Vince islands. Off the SW. extreme of Vince island is a rock 80 yards from the shore ^ otherwise the passage, ^ mile wide, is deep and clear.
Northbrook sound is a deep fiord, running between the mountains for 10 miles to the ENE., and terminating in a picturesque basin, into which the streams draining a large glacier, which descends to within J mile of the shore, discharge themselves.
This glacier is fed by the same snow field that supplies those stretch- ing down to Glacier and Icy sounds, at the head of Beaufort bay. No anchorage was found in Korthbrook sound.
Another smaller inlet, unexplored by the Sylvia^ trends E. by S., having its entrance east of Big island.
Providence island, about 1^ miles west of Maze islands, is 4^ miles long north and south and 4 miles across the north side, between which and the mainland is Sylvia channel. It is mountainous, and when seen from the strait appears as an undulating ridge with several peaks on it, the highest of which is 1,510 feet above the sea.
Cape Providence, the south extreme of Providence island, is a bold headland with deep water close-to on the east side, but a small rock
CELERY ISLAND — SYLVIA CHANNEL. 107
lies about 200 yards from the shore, a short distance west of the cape, and will only be seen from the eastward when tbe south extreme bears west of K 490 W. (N. 710 W. mag.).
Celery island, 32 feet higb, small and moss covered, lies ^ mile from the shore, with cape Providence bearing S. 60° W. (S. 38° W. mag.).
Providence bank. — From Celery island for 1 J miles to the south a rocky bank of foul ground extends, with two (and possibly more) rocks nearly awash on it.
To pass southward of Providence bank, Jones peak, on Tamar island, must be kept well open south of cape Providence, bearing nothing to the westward of N. 49° W. (N. 71o W. mag.).
To pass eastward of Providence bank. Brown point (the northwest- ern extreme of Maze islands), in line with York hill (a conical eminence 1,000 feet high at the eastern extreme of Providence island), bearing K. I80 E. (N. 40 W. mag.), will lead east of the bank until cape Provi- dence bears K. 68° W. (West mag.), when the course can be altered to port to clear Brown point.
The passage between the Maze islands and Providence bank may be useful to vessels unable to reach Port Tamar before dark, as, if neces- sarj'', anchorages may be found under Providence island at the risk of the loss of an anchor, or a course may be shaped for Sylvia channel.
Anchorage. — On the eastern side of cape Providence the water is very deep and the shore bank is steep and rocky. A vessel can anchor in several places close under the land, but there is no room to swing, and the williwaws are exceedingly heavy, though the water is perfectly smooth.
Anchorage under Providence island is not recommended. For a moderate- sized vessel the anchorage in Sylvia channel is much to be preferred, and such anchorage should be sought before anchoring in Sylvia cove if there be time before dark.
Sylvia cove, on the eastern side of Providence island, 2^ miles from cape Providence, is f mile deep and but little over 200 yards wide. It afforded protection to the Sylvia while her boats surveyed the vicinity, but, moored as she was, there was not room to swing in all directions. It is not fit for a vessel more than 150 feet long.
Fairway rock, 3 feet above high water, and surrounded by kelp, lies in the center of the entrance, and can be passed on either side, but the eastern passage is the better, for then the course is straight N. 34° W. (N. 5G^ W. mag.). Shallow water extends some distance south, and a patch of 2 fathoms extends 100 yards north of Fairway rock.
Sylvia channel, 5 miles long, is the passage between the mainland and Providence island, and is the continuation of the inshore route. It is 250 yards wide at the narrows, and has an excellent anchorage for a moderate- sized vessel, clear of rocks, and with no williwaws. Though the mountains are lofty, they slope gradually to the shore, and the land immediately on either hand is, for the strait, low.
The eastern entrance is partly blocked by a cluster of small i^ands
108 MAGELLAN STEAIT — ^SYLVIA CHANNEL.
(Passage islands), having a deep channel to the northward of them. The highest of these has a well-marked sammit, which will be easily made out when approaching from Cripples channel or from the southward.
Entrance island is the eastern one of the Passage group. It is 70 feet high and steep-to, forming with the mainland the commencement of the channel, here J mile wide.
Coombes rock is a small rounded knob of granite 2 feet above high- water mark. It lies 150 yards from the south shore and 700 yards K. 57° W. (N. 790 W. mag.) from Weston point, with kelp and shoal water extending 150 yards to the northward and westward of it. A mid-channel course is easy to keep, and will clear all dangers.
At Hayes point the land on the north side opens into a large bay full of islands, and at the low western end of Providence island a number of islands continue the southern shore of the channel.
Ward island, the western limit of this channel, has a group of rocks not more than 12 feet high about 200 yards to the westward; they can be rounded within 200 yards. This island is covered with moss and stunted trees.
Channel peak is a conspicuous object on the mainland near the west end of the channel. It is an isolated conical mountain 1,450 feet high. There is another mountain of similar shape, but higher, to the KE. of it, with a deep dip between them.
Anchorage. — ^The anchorage in Sylvia channel is in the narrow east- ern part, in from 15 to 17 fathoms water, bottom of gravel, stones, and mud. . It is on the southern side of the channel, 450 yards K. 24° W. {N. 460 W. mag.) of Coombes rock. If clear, Channel peak ought to be seen a very little open of Poulter point. There is a stream on the south shore which usually shows as it trickles down the hillside in a small cascade. This should bear about S. 38° W. (S. I60 W. mag.) when the anchor is dropped.
Although there is not much room to swing to the westward, it is very improbable a vessel will do so, except in a calm, when with a slack chain the ebb stream may cause her to do so.
The Sylvia was anchored here on several occasions and in all sorts of weather, and found it one of the best berths in the strait; no williwaws, very little jerking of the cables, and the wind steady in direction.
They found that generally the current ran strongly to the eastward, but in calm weather the tidal stream made itself felt, and sometimes set in the opposite direction. The turning of the stream did not seem always to agree with the time of high water, and doubtless it is much affected by winds which may be blowing in the main strait while it is calm at the anchorage.
Coast. — ^The coast from the west end of Sylvia channel to Port Tamar is much broken up and is faced by innumerable islets, rocks, and kelp patches. The land is lower, but rises in one place to a height of 1,170 feet/
SULLENS ROCK — ^MOUAT ISLANDS, 109
Sullens rock is marked by a large patch of kelp. It is an impedi- ment to the free navigation of the channel. It lies N .6S^ W. (West, mag.), distant about 800 yards from Ward island.
Steed rock is a patch of 2 fathoms marked by kelp about one mile S. 52° W. (S. 30O W. mag.) from Sullens rock. It is midway between the west shore of Providence island and the mainland.
Directions. — A vessel may pass either east or west of the above rocks, but it is advisable to keep east, especially in thick weather.
After rounding Ward island and the rocks off it, the west point of it kept bearing K. 46^ E, (N. 24° E. mag.), right astern will lead eastward of Steed rock until Eound island is in line with the summit of Beloe heights, above Port Tamar. The course may then be changed so as to bring cape Tamar a little on the starboard bow, Beloe summit has a large beacon on it.
Tamar peninsula. — Monson bay is a bight on the eastern shore of this peninsula; it is quite large and might afford good anchorage, but it is too far out of the way.
Round island, 260 feet high and 3 miles east from cape Tamar, is readily known by its haycock shape and white patch on the south side. Its steep sides are covered with thick bushes. As foul ground extends off this island for some distance, give it a berth of at least one mile.
Fricker island is somewhat similar in appearance to Eound island; but as it is higher and quite close to the shore there ought to be no dif&culty in discriminating between them.
Coast. — The bay northward of Fricker island was not thoroughly examined, as neither the approach to it, nor the bay itself, seemed to offer any inducement to spend time on it with Port Tamar so close.
West of Eound island, a line of shoal patches, marked by kelp, extends to Port Tamar, some of which are f mile from the shore. There appears to be a passage inshore of these from Eound island, but it was not examined closely, as it would be of little service. Vessels entering port Tamar should pass west of these shoals.
Fort Tamar. — Eeports from various steamer captains describe this anchorage as a very bad one and only to be used in case of absolute necessity, while port Ohurruca, on the opposite shore, is highly recom- mended. It is on the south side of Tamar peninsula and there is no difficulty in entering. Unless the wind is very far to the south no sea will enter Port Tamar; in the latter case the amount of sea is very insignificant.
Beloe heights have several small summits on them, the highest, 735 feet high, being marked with a beacon. The hill over cape Tamar is rounded, and 840 feet high. When seen from the eastward the peaks of Tamar island will tower above Tamar peninsula, but Beloe summit will show on the sky line just to the right.
Mouat islands will generally be visible from a distance of 3 miles. The one with the observation spot is the highest, 40 feet high, and
110 MAGELLAN STRAIT — ^ASTR^E ROCK.
covered with vegetation, the larger one to the west being only 15 feet in height. Dolphin island is a bare rock and shows well.
There is a sandy beach at the western part of the bay, a very rare thing in these parts.
Directions. — Approaching Port Tamar from the eastward, care mnst be taken not to close the land too far east of the port, on account of the Percival and other reefs; as these are, however, marked by kelp there is no real diflBculty to be apprehended.
There is a remarkable white vertical patch, abont one-third of the way up the green side of the hilly land at the western part of the i)ort. This patch, in line with the eastern of the Mouat islands bearing N. 52^ W. (N. 749 W. mag.), leads southward of all dangers, and where John point bears N. 4° E. (N. 18° W. mag.) steer for it on this bearing, leav- ing the 4^-fathom patch west of Dolphin island on the starboard, and the 2^-fathom patch on the port hand.
These rocks are marked by kelp, the latter having a large mass on it, which can be rounded moderately close.
Caution. — Do not mistake the white spot on the cliffs inside of John point for the tombstone stripe.
Anchorage. — The best anchorage is in 15 fathoms, with the tombstone patch seen north of Spencer island, and bearing N. 80^ W. (S. 78° W. mag.), and Sentry island shut in by the large Mouat island. Stiff clay lies in the hollows between the rocks. Do not drop the anchor in less than 15 fathoms.
There is a second berth NW. of the Mouat islands for small vessels, but it ought not to be used if there is room in the other part of the bay.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in this part of the strait at Ih. 40m. The rise in Port Tamar is 6 feet, and a little less in jwrt Ohurruca.
The flood stream sets to the eastward and attains a velocity of about IJ knots an hour. The stream of the ebb is not so strong, but when against the wind there are overfalls and ripplings southward of Tamar island.
Tamar island, off the west side of Tamar peninsula, and separated from it by Ehoda pass, has two peaks visible in clear weather from abreast Arathoon bay on one side and cape Pillar on the other. The southern, Taylor peak, is square and flat topped, 1,380 feet high. The northern, Jones peak, has a sharp summit and is 1,405 feet high.
Eocks and islets skirt the shores of Tamar island for IJ miles off to the south and at J mile to the west. Falgate island, the highest, is 60 feet above water.
Astr^e rock, the outmost danger off cape Tamar, has 16 feet water over it; it is well marked by kelp. It lies f mile S. 55© W. (S. 33'=> W, mag.) from Falgate island and S. 10^ W. (S. 12° E. mag.) from the western extremity of Tamar island. Round island kept open south of cape Tamar will lead south of the rock.
RHODA PASS — SIB JOHN NAEBOROUGH ISLANDS. Ill
Rhoda pass is not navigable for ships. It leads into a large bay formed between Tamar island and peninsula, but farther progress north is barred by a shallow ridge with islets and rocks across the channel. Several rocks lie at the south entrance to Ehoda pass.
Beaufort bay lies between Tamar island and cape Phillip, distant 8 miles. It is a deep bight, and has two arms, the easternmost of which extends to the NE. and contains Glacier and Icy sounds. The western arm is the commencement of Smyth channel.
Parker island, 7 miles westward of cape Phillip, is 6J miles long, of irregular shape, and 1,050 feet high at the highest part. The channel between the island and mainland has not been examined.
Cape Parker, the SW. extreme of Parker island, is a long, sloping ridge with three remarkably symmetrical sugar-loaf hills on it, one behind the other, rising in heijght from the southern one, which is 370 feet high. These are only conspicuous from the eastward.
A rock, 10 feet above water, lies J mile S. 22^ W. (South, mag.) of cape Parker, and 2J miles K. 79° W. (S. 79^ W. mag.) from the cape is a rock awash, which generally breaks.
Lecky harbor, on the SE. side of Parker island, has not been exam- ined, but the space inside the reef of it appeared small, and had two rocks above water in it.
Coast. — The coast north of Parker island, from cape Phillip to Barr point, at 14 miles west of it, is from 1,000 to 1,300 feet high, and is broken by several large openings trending to the northward. From Barr point the land recedes to the north and west, forming a very large bay, the shores of which were estimated from the summit of Westmin- ster Hall, which lies off its mouth, to be 15 miles distant. It contains numerous islands.
Westminster Hall is a precipitous mass of granite rock 1,120 feet high, 9 miles W!N"W. from cape Parker. It is clear on the east and south sides, but to the west and north a chain of islands and rocks commences, which borders the strait as far as cape Victory at 28 miles NW. of Westminster Hall. The Sylvia obtained several casts of from 16 to 22 fathoms, sand and stones, off the east side of Westminster Hall, and perhaps a vessel could anchor here under the lee in an emer- gency, but a heavy swell would come round the island, which is not large enough to afford shelter. Westminster Hall has a remarkable appearance from east or west.
Sir John Narborough islands. — This chain consists of eight or nine large islands and a large number of small ones. Behind these islands there appears to be a channel, and among them several anchorages, but none to be recommended, especially as on the south coast there are two or three much better, safer, and easier of access. The northwestern point of the group is cape Victory, in latitude 52^ 16' S., longitude 74^ 55' W., which may be considered as the north point of entrance at the west end of Magellan strait.
112 MAGELLAN STRAIT — OTWAY WATER.
This is all a dangerous coast, as well from the great number of rocks, upon which the sea breaks very high, as from the tides which near the edge of the line of shoals frequently set in among them.
Cupola, 100 feet high, is the highest of the numerous outlying islets off Sir John Narborough islands.
The Beagle ran in among the breakers, and anchored near Observa- tion mount (which was not recognized from the Sylvia) for the purposes of the survey; but no one, except for discovery, should approach this dangerous coast.
Lob Evangelistas, consisting of four rocky islets and some detached rocks and breakers, lie 11 miles SW. from cape Victory. They were thus named by the early Spanish navigators, but they were called the Islets of Direction by !N"arborough, from their forming an excellent mark from the western mouth of the strait. The islets are very rugged and barren, and suited only to afford a resting place or breeding haunt for seals and oceanic birds, but a landing place may be found on one of them, and anchorage among them if necessary. The largest and highest (170 feet) may be seen in tolerably clear weather from a vessel's deck at a distance of 15 miles. The southernmost, is, from its shape, named the Sugarloat
By the latest determinations Sugarloaf is considered to be in latitude 520 25' S., longitude 75° 4' 15" W.
Light — A fixed white light, varied by a bright fla^h every half minute^ is exhibited on the largest or western islet of Los Evangelistas at an altitude of 190 feet above the level of the sea and 36 feet above the ground. The light is visible 20 miles in clear weather.
Tides are here very variable, and sometimes set toward the rocks that front cape Victory and the Narborough chain. It is high water, full and change, at Ih., and the tide rises about 5 feet.
Captain Stokes experienced a current of about 2 knots when 4 or 5 miles west of cape Pillar and somewhat southward of it.
CHANNELS OFF THE NORTH SHORE OF THE MAIN STRAIT.
Jerome channel runs in a northwesterly direction 9 miles, with an average width of IJ miles. Arauz point at the entrance is low, with foul ground extending nearly 400 yards from it in a westerly direction. On the north side of this point the shore recedes and forms a bight 2 miles across between the entrance points. The southern part is named Arauz bay and the northern Three Island bay. A kelp patch extends 400 yards in a SE. direction from the west point of this bay. Wood and Seal coves, on the western shore of the channel, are small and appear to afford but indifferent anchorage.
Terran islands, two in number, nearly mid-channel, are of equal size, wooded, and about 30 feet high. Kelp patches extend i mile in a SE. and J mile in a K W. direction from the islands.
The Alert passed westward of these islands and the passage appeared clear of danger.
Otway water. — ^The eastern shore of Otway water from abreast
CUTTER ISLANDS — FITZ-ROY CHANNEL. 113
Terran islands trends in a northerly direction about 9 miles to cape Charles, thence more easterly 6^ miles to Stokes point, the west entrance point to Wickham bay. Between Cutter cove, at 3 miles north of Ter- ran islands, and cape Charles the mountains are high and rugged.
Cutter islands are two in number. The westernmost is a small, grassy island about 10 feet high; the easternmost is 100 feet high.
Tree island, the westernmost of two small islands lying near the shore, 3J miles northward of Cutter cove, has a single tree on its summit. Eocks and kelp extend about 200 yards in a westerly direction from Tree island.
Corona islands, about 3 miles northward of Tree island, consist of three islands, the easternmost of which, Sugarloaf, lies nearly in mid- channel, is conical in shape, 500 feet high, and wooded. The southern- most island is 60 feet high, and the westernmost is high and saddle- topped, but lies so close to the shore that it can not be distinguished from the mainland when seen from the southward. It is, however, easily recognized from the northward.
The western shore of Otway water rises gradually to the back range of hills, and is a dense forest between Bending cove, abreast cape Charles, and Shellnote point, at 35 miles NE. of it. Childs bluff, the NE. entrance point of Bending cove, is about 100 feet high, cliffy, and wooded on the top. Islets point, 2 J miles NE. of Childs bluff, is low and rocky, with shoal ground extending nearly ^ mile from the shore. From Villiers point, at 5J miles NE. of Islets point, to Martin point, 4 miles farther to the northeastward, several detached rocks and islets lie near the shore. A reef is reported to extend one mile from Sunshine point. Lackwater point, 19 miles NE. of Martin point, is a low, sandy spit, with several bowlders on the beach. Shellnote point, which is also low, has on it a round clump of trees.
Englefield and Vivian islands, about 400 feet high, flat-topped, and wooded, lie about 3J miles from the shore between Martin and Sunshine points. A spit extends J mile in a NW.. direction from the KW. point of Englefield island (the northern).
Fitz-Roy channeli leading from Otway to Skyring water, is much narrowed by shoals which extend from most of the points, some even to mid-channel, making the navigation intricate. The difficulty is increased by the tide, which runs through the channel with a velocity of 3 to 4 knots per hour.
Hall point, the SW. entrance point of Fitz-Eoy channel, is a low, rocky spit. Bolton bluff, one mile northward of Hall point, is a brown slope without vegetation, and opens to view when bearing north. A bank, with 16 to 18 feet water, and 8 fathoms close-to, extends nearly a mile from Bolton bluff.
The eastern shore of Fitz-Eoy channel is about 40 feet high and slop- ing; the western shore is low, with the exception of Fenton point, the north entrance point of Beagle harbor, 1943— If 0. 89 8
114 MAGELLAN STRAIT — BKTRINa WATER,
Beagle harbor is reported to be very shallow at the head. The Alert anchored in 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, with Fenton point bear- ing N. 320 E. (I^. no E. mag.), Sandy spit 8. 18© E. (8. 39© E. mag.), and Donkin point 8. 47© E. (8. 68© E. mag.).
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in the harbor at 30m.; springs rise about 5 feet.
Directions. — Standing in, the Alert passed Hall point at a distance of 1 J miles, and when it bore N. 69° W. (West mag.) the course was changed to K. 21^ E. (North mag.) for George point, until Sandy point (one mile within the entrance on the western shore) bore N. 18o W. (N. 390 W. mag.), when it was steered for on that bearing, and 6 fathoms was the least water found. The flood stream, commencing a mid -channel course, was kept, with depths of 9 to 11 fathoms, until abreast of Don- kin cove, on the eastern shore, from which point a reef, with 12 to 14 feet water, extends more than halfway across.
Half a mile north of Eeynard point is the narrowest part of the chan- nel, being not more than 300 yards between the shores. The navigable portion of this part of the channel is contracted by a bank extending from the eastern shore, and by another bank extending from the low point just north of it on the western shore. The tidal stream in this part was so strong and in such a disturbed state that the edges of the shoals could not be made out. The stream of the flood sets from the bight on the eastern shore toward the shore south of Haase point on the western shore.
When rounding Turn point, which is very low, care is necessary with the stream of the flood not to be set into the shallow bight on the west- ern shore just south of Bowlder reef. This reef, a portion of the north- ern edge of which uncovers, extends as far as the middle of the channel.
After passing Turn point keep near the eastern shore. Solitary bowlder, in line with the south low shoulder of Beagle hills bearing S. 630 E. (S. 840 E. mag.), leads north of Bowlder reef, thence steer toward Swan bay to avoid a reef which extends more than halfway across the channel from the western shore. In the northern entrance depths of 4 fathoms were obtained in mid-channel north of Bennet point, the N W. entrance point of Fitz-Eoy channel.
Skyring ivater. — Hoppers bluff, on the eastern shore of Skyring water, at 3J miles iNTNW. of Bennet point, is a black, cliffy projection, while all the coast near is grass land, from which spits extend seaward with large bowlders. At 2f miles west from Bennet point, on the south- ern shore, there is a conspicuous white bowlder, which can be seen from Isabella point, on the northern shore of Skyring water.
The Alert y^hen proceeding from Fitz-Eoy channel to Las Minas bay steered K. 75° W. (8. 84^ E. mag.), with Bennet point and the highest part of Beagle hills in line bearing 8. 75° E. (N. 84o E. mag.), with depths of 4 fathoms, until Hoppers bluff bore N. 40 W. (N. 25° W. mag.). The soundings then gradually increased until Hoppers bluff
ANCHORAGES — PORT ALTAMIRANO. 115
bore IT. 90 E. (N. 12o W. mag.), when a depth of 10 fathoms was attained, after which no bottom with the hand lead. The course was now altered to N. 69° W. (West mag.), and when Isabella point, which is a green, smooth point, bore N. IQo W. (N. 31° W. mag.), steered N. 58© W. (K 790 W. mag.) for Las Minas.
Anchorages. — The Alert anchored in Las Minas bay in 6 fathoms, mud, with Julio point, the west point of the bay, bearing N. 52° W. (N. 730 W. mag.), the pier in the bight F. 2© W. (N. 23° W. mag.), and Hurtado point, a cliffy point on the east side of the bay, N. 69^ E. (N. 480 E. mag.). This anchorage is open to the SW. winds, which generally blow strong.
Landing. — The coal shed and jetty are at Julio point, where it is best to land; the pier in the bight is exposed to the sea.
CoaL — The coal from the Marta cbal mines at Las jVIinas bay proved to be of inferior quality, and great difficulty was experienced ia keep- ing steam, though the boiler power was sufficient to give such coal every advantage. It was subsequently tried in combination with Lota and Welsh coal, but the results, though much better, were not satisfac- tory. The difficult navigation of Fitz-Eoy channel would prevent passing vessels from visiting the mines for a supply, and would raise the cost of transport to a convenient port in Magellan strait so much that it would equal the price of good English coal.
Tides. — The time of high water is somewhat irregular, and the rise is about 5 feet.
Fort Altamirano is 6 miles west of Las Minas. It is a small but secure harbor, having good holding ground in 9 fathoms, mud. Eocky spits extend nearly 4 mile from both entrance points.
Cockbum channel. See page 30.
Barbara channel See page 32.
CHAPTER III.
PATAGONIAN CHANNELS AND THE OUTER COAST; MAGELLAN STRAIT
TO CAPE TRES MONTES.
PATAGONIAN CHANNELS.
Qeneral remarks. — ^The southwestern coast of Chile, between Magel- lan strait and the gulf of Penas, is fronted by a succession of islands of considerable extent, between which are good navigable channels, afibrd- ing a smooth water route of 300 miles, denominated the Patagonian channels.
This route is mostly used by vessels designed to avoid the heavy seas and bad weather so often experienced on passing into the Pacific from the western end of Magellan strait.
The large full-powered mail steamers generally at once gain the open sea at cape Pillar, as experience has shown that time is thus saved to them; but vessels of less engine power, to which punctuality and dis- patch is not so much an object as avoiding possible danger, will find the Patagonian channels the best route.
The general features of these channels are high, abrupt shores, with innumerable peaks and headlands remarkably alike in character, their bold, rugged heads giving an appearance of gloomy grandeur rarely seen elsewhere. The shores are generally steep-to and the channels, for the most part, open and free, while the few dangers that exist are usually marked by kelp. The tides are regular and not strong, except in the English narrows.
In no case are these channels more than 5 miles wide, and average about 1^ miles. In Mayne channel the navigable width is reduced to 500 yards; Guia narrows are ^ mile wide, but in the navigation of these there is no difl&culty or danger for the largest vessels.
It is at the English narrows in Messier channel that the passage is most contracted. Here it is only 200 yards wide, but it presents no great difficulty or danger (excepting to very long vessels) unless a vessel goes through with the wind and tide, which should never be attempted if the wind be strong.
In these narrows the tide runs 6 knots at springs; and as the chan- nel is winding it is, during springs, always advisable to await slack water, for which purpose the anchorages in Eden harbor on the south and Halt bay or Gray harbor on the north side of the narrows are conveniently situated. 116
GENERAL BEMABES. 117
Through the whole extent of the channels the chart and eye must be the principal guides, as it is impossible to give a description of channels so narrow and tortuous with sufficient exactness to guide a mariner without them.
The following description is intended only for steamers, which alone should attempt to make this passage. With care, those of the largest class may go. through with perfect safety.
The usual route followed, and that recommended to vessels bound northward, is by Smyth channel, Barmiento, Inocentes, Ooncepcion, Wide aud Messier channels to the gulf of Peiias.
Trinidad channel, which leads to seaward from the northern end of Concepcion channel, is exceedingly useful to pass out to the Pacific from the Patagonian channels, in case it is desirable to avoid the possible delay occasioned by English narrows in Messier channel. Alert harbor, at its western end, will afford shelter t© a number of large vessels.
From Trinidad channel vessels can gain the gulf of Peflas by Picton, Stosch, and Fallos channels, but that route, although having some advantage in avoiding English narrows, is not considered so safe as the well-known route by Wide and Messier channels.
Anchorages may always be had if judgment be exercised and the vessel not pushed on till too late in the day to pick one up; and, even should no anchorage be obtained, the shores, excepting in one or two places, are so bold and steep-to that a vessel may safely remain under way all night under ordinary circumstances of weather.
The surveying vessel Nassau^ on one occasion, was caught in this way by the nonexistence of an anchorage, and continued on her course under easy speed all night without any danger as far as the land was con- cerned, though the floating ice out of Eyre sound gave the ship some severe blows. In the event of being so caught, and not liking to con- tinue on the course, it is advisable to send a party on shore to keep a fire burning all night, and the sea is seldom so heavy as to prevent boats landing on one shore or the other in safety.
A moderate-sized vessel will find an anchorage every few miles throughout the entire length of the inner or recommended route, the longest run between any two being 27 miles.
After leaving Port Ohurruca or Port Tamar, large vessels may anchor in Mayne channel. Isthmus bay, Puerto Bueno, Wide bay, Molyneux sound, Henderson inlet, Senaret harbor. Port Grappler, Eden harbor (for English narrows). Gray harbor (for English narrows, bound south), Connor cove, and at the anchorage outside Island har- bor. The longest run between Isthmus bay and Puerto Bueno is 77 miles; that between Senaret harbor or Henderson inlet to Port Grap- pler is 51 miles; no other distance between any successive anchorage exceeds 36 miles.
Caution. — As there has been no complete survey of the channels between Magellan strait and the gulf of Peiias, the navigator is cau- tioned that, although the charts and directions may be considered
118 PATAGONIAN CHANKEL8 — BHOLL BAY.
sufficient guides by daylight, he must not trust too implicitly in them during thick weather, as in some few instances the bearings from head- land to headland are not strictly accurate, and the buoys and beacons are not to be depended on.
Wind and "weather. — Except where an opening occurs the true wind is rarely felt, and is forced by the high mountains into a kind of funnel, up or down which it always blows. The prevailing wind is from the northward, and sometimes blows with great fury, but of course in so confined a space there is never any sea sufficiently high to be danger- ous to a vessel, or even to a boat. The principal feature in the weather here is not in the strength of the wind, but the almost peri)etual rain.
Day after day there is this steady downfall, unless the vessel is so fortunate as to arrive in one of those rare breaks of lovely weather which sometimes happen. Then it will seem as if this is one of the most interesting of navigable waters, with smooth sea, well-sheltered anchorages, and surrounded by the most glorious scenery; but these occasions are extremely rare.
As far as the rain is concerned one season is as bad as another, but the warmth and length of daylight in the summer render that season far the better for such navigation.
Supplies. — The only food supply that can be depended upon with any certainty is mussels. These are to be obtained everywhere and are very good of their kind. In the summer a few berries may be picked up, or bought from the Indians when they are met with. Fish are in abundance, but it is very difficult to find a beach on which to haul the seine. With a trammel net they may be taken in most of the quiet coves.
The evergreen and antarctic beeches are almost the only kind of tree, covering the mountain sides everywhere from the water's edge to a line several hundred feet above. Among these is a thick, tangled under- growth growing from a soft, spongy moss, treading on which one sinks to the knees. For steaming purposes the wood found in the northern parts of these channels is better than that found in the south.
H. O. Chart No. 446.
Straggler islands are a cluster of small islands lying in the north part of Beaufort bay, between Tamar island and the entrance to Smyth channel, in steering for which they must be left to starboard. The western islands are low and small, 40 feet being the height of Boston island, the northwestern of the group, and off which rocks and kelp extend | mile.
When visible, mount Joy, a long flat-shaped hill on the west side of Smyth channel, just open west of Fairway island, bearing N. 22° E. (Korth mag.), will lead to the entrance of Smyth channel.
Shell bay, under the NE. side of cape Phillip, the western entrance point of Smyth channel, may easily be recognized, as cape Phillip and St. Annes peak, the latter rising 1,690 feet, are excellent marks.
SMYTH CHANNEL. 119
Although in this bay the anchorage is confined and it has several out- lying rocks, vessels are secure when inside, and it will be found an advantageous stopping place for steamers proceeding through Smyth channel.
Nearly f mile southeastward of point Henry, the south point of the bay, is Flat rock, 5 feet above high water, but this will not be distin- guished until it is open of cape Phillip. As the shoal water off* it extends more than a mile to the southward, care should be taken to sight the rock before closing the land too much.
Northward of Flat rock, at 800 and 1,200 yards, are two detached rocks just awash at high water, with shoal ground J mile beyond them to the northeastward, and one mile East (N. 68° E. mag.) of Flat rock is a 4|-fathom patch named Freycinet reef. Foul ground extends J mile SSE, of Freycinet reef, but nothing less than 10 fathoms was found. Flat rock should not be approached within 1| miles on its eastern or northern side.
Directions. — After rounding Tamar island, steer North (N. 22^ W. mag.) for 4 or 5 miles before edging away to the northward, as with the prevalent strong westerly winds a vessel is liable to be set to the east- ward, then steer N. 22^ E. (North mag.) until St. Annes peak is distin- guished, when keep a point to the eastward of it until the other features of the land can be made out. Off Robert i)oint (the north point of ShoU bay) is a group of small rocky islets, which may be steered for on a N. 120 W. (N. 340 W. mag.) bearing until within J mile of them, when a larger islet (Moss) westward of Robert point will appear; then keep close along the shore of Moss islet until its western extreme bears N. 61° E. (N. 390 E. mag.), distant 300 yards, which is the best anchorage for a large vessel. A small vessel may feel her way farther in. There is a channel into the bay from the southward inside Flat rock, but it has not been examined. In calm weather it would be necessary to moor here, but with westerly winds single anchor with a long scope of chain is preferable.
The williwaws over the land blow with terrific force, but the water is perfectly smooth, and the Nassau rode out two very heavy gales in this bay at single anchor. In an easterly gale vessels should not go into Sholl bay, as it is perfectly open, but should either run out of the strait before it or stop at port Ohurruca.
Kelp has grown up in Sholl bay since the Nassau's survey, and it is difficult to get in to the anchorage without passing through some of it.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Sholl bay at llh. 45m.; springs rise 6 feet.
SMYTH CHANNEL.
Smyth channel extends 45 miles in a general northerly direction to Victory pass and then 30 miles northwesterly into Nelson strait.
Appearance of the land. — On the western shore of Smyth channel, at about 2} miles north of cape Phillip, is St. Annes peak, 1,690 feet
120 SMYTH CHANNEL — ^I^ENOUARD ISLAND.
high, termiDating in a sharp conical point. St. Agnes peak, about 2 miles eastward of St. Annes, has a roanded top and is 1,064 feet high. Mount Joy, 1,426 feet, 5^ miles northeastward of the latter peak, has a flat summit, and when seen from abreast Straggler islands appears divided into three parts by two small notches, the western side of the summit appearing a little higher than the eastern.
Fairway islets can be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles; the largest is so much higher than the others that they only show when open of it. There are four peaks, which are well defined when either northward or southward, the highest being 115 feet.
Lynch rock, lying a little more than 600 yards ft*om the north extreme of the largest Fairway islet, is awash at low water. The kelp extends from the islands almost to the rock.
Deep harbor, the first anchorage on the western shore of Smyth channel, at 3 miles northward of Fairway islets, is of very little service to vessels of the present day. The entrance is J mile wide and the anchorage about ^ mile within the first head off the entrance of a lagoon, in 30 to 35 fathoms. On entering there is a kelp patch on the starboard hand, and the shore is fronted for a short distance by rocks.
Viel islands are on the east side of Smyth channel, 3 miles north- eastward of Fairway islands. When seen from the southward they appear as one only, high at the north extremity and terminating in a low point at the south; when abreast Deep harbor, the several islands forming the group can be distinguished.
Three Peaks island, on the western shore, abreast the center of Viel group, is small but remarkable, showing on some bearings three distinct peaks, the highest of which is 60 feet.
Burgoyne bay, 4^ miles northeastward of Deep harbor, and on the opposite shore, affords anchorage, though it can not be called good on account of its depth; there is no danger, however, which either does not show, or is marked by kelp. The bottom is very uneven, varying from 40 to 12 fathoms, but near the shore in some parts a vessel can anchor and secure with a stern hawser to a tree, as it is perfectly land- locked. Hugh head, a barren height, 200 or 300 feet high, over the north side of the bay, marks its entrance.
Qreen islands, 5 miles northward of Deep harbor, may be recog- nized by their green appearance against the barren background of Benouard island.
Pylades bay, on the east side of the channel, abreast Green islet, has anchorage on the southern shore, between two islands, the north- ern one of which appears as a promontory; the depth is 16 fathoms, with good holding ground. The head of the bay is sheltered from all winds except those from the west. A shoal of 9 feet extends from the southern shore, rendering that part only fit for small vessels.
Renouard island, about a mile from Green islet, is high, rugged, and barren, with two peaks 850 and 650 feiBt high. The higher or west- ern peak is not so well defined as the eastern one. Prain and Buckley
ANTOINE BAY — ^ALERT ROCK. 121
points, on tne east side of the island, are low, but show out well against the land of Sivel promontory and Simpson island, north of it.
Antoine bay, on the eastern shore, 1 J miles north of Pylades bay, has no danger in it, but there is no room for anchoring except by going to the head of the bay and making fast to the shore.
Sivel promontory, just north of Antoine bay, appears to form part of the islands Renouard and Simpson when viewed from the southward.
Good and North bays, on the western shore, abreast Eenouard islands, are both unfit for long vessels, as indeed are all the anchorages between Sholl and Otter bays, and a vessel going northward should not pass Tamar or Sholl bay without being sure of reaching Otter bay.
Directions. — Renouard island may be passed on either side, but the eastern passage is preferable; then between Shoal island, just off the extreme of Sivel promontory, and Evans group; between Richards and Simpson islands; thence N. 12^ W. (N. 34^ W. mag.), leaving Pearse and Alert rocks and Shearwater islets on the starboard hand. From cape Colworth until Otter islands are approached there is no danger. On rounding the west side of Shoal islands give them a good berth, as the tidal currents sometimes set strongly toward them.
Beacon. — A white pyramidal beacon, surrounded by a cage painted red, is erected on the highest part of Shoal island.
Evans group are midway between Renouard and Richards islands, the highest being 60 feet. They are barren and of a whitish color, with kelp off their eastern extremity, outside of which the Avater is deep.
Simpson island, on the eastern shore, north of Sivel promontory, has a well-defined peak 726 feet high, showing above the range of hills extending from north to south of the island. Along its western shore are several small islets or rocks surrounded by kelp.
Isabel island, off the NW. point of Simpson island, is small and of a whitish or gray color; it has a fringe of kelp along its western side, with several small islets between it and Simpson island.
Richards island has several small rocks along its eastern side, with a remarkable islet close to cape Henry. It is rugged and barren, and of the same grayish color as nearly all the land in the vicinity. Approach- ing this island from the north, the two hills (349 and 435 feet) near its north and south extremities have the appearance of two hummocks.
Shearvcrater islets, about one mile from Richards island, consist of five small islets, with several rocks between, well marked by kelp, some awash and some above water. These islets, apparently not over 30 feet high, form a good mark, when seen from the north, for pointing out the position of Alert and Pearse rocks. Shearwater islets appear peaked when first seen from abreast of the Sparkes islands in Retreat bay.
Pearse rock, lying 600 yards SW. of Shearwater islets, is small and awash, surrounded by kelp, and sometimes difficult to distinguish. A good berth should be given it when passing.
Alert rocky lying about 600 yards NW. of Shearwater islets,* has
122 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — ^MAYNE CHANNEL.
tbree heads showing above water, with a fringe of kelp around it, and is difficult to distinguish when approaching from the north.
If the weather be thick, and Alert rock has not been made out, close the land north of cape Oolworth, or stop the engines until the weather clears.
Retreat bay, on the western shore, at about 3 miles north of Bich- ards island, is large and well sheltered, but the water is too deep for a good anchorage, no bottom being obtainable at 30 fathoms until so close to the shore that a large vessel could not swing.
Hose harbor, on the eastern shore abreast Retreat bay, is entered through a long narrow passage, and looked most tempting at first sight, but is useless on account of its depth.
Tandy bay, on the eastern shore, 3^ miles north of Hose harbor, has anchorage for small vessels on its northern side in the kelp, but both it and Oake bay on the west shore abreast Tandy bay are so near the better anchorage of Otter bay that it would be rarely necessary to make use of them.
Dashixrood point is the termination of a high range of hills gradu- ally sloping down to the water on the east side of the south entrance to Mayne channel, and is easily recognized when approaching it from the south. A rock barely awash at half flood lies about 40 yards from the point.
Conner islets are nine in number, the largest of which is only 40 feet high and 200 yards across. They are dark colored, and from the southward look like several small haycocks. These islands are excel- lent marks for Otter bay and the channels.
The ridge, with depths of from 5 to 12 fathoms, extends from Dash- wood point to the Otter islands. It is steep-to on either side, has an average breadth of about 400 yards, and affords temporary anchorage in 6^ fathoms near Dashwood point; also in 6^ to 7 fathoms about h mile south of Otter islands.
Otter islands consist of five islands and several small islets sepa- rating Mayne and Gray channels at their south entrances. The largest is Campbell island, 190 feet high and J mile long north and south. Most of the islands are covered with small trees of stunted growth.
As Otter islands are neared from the southward Conner islands will show on the port hand and the summit of Campell island will be seen over the lower land of the island in front of it.
Mayne channel, about 8 miles in length, leading eastward of Otter and Summer islands, though shoaler than Gray channel, is generally preferred for vessels not drawing more than 25 to 26 feet.
Otter bay, formed by the three southernmost Otter islands, has very good anchorage in 6 to 7 fathoms, well sheltered, but confined for a large vessel. When entering the bay the eastern shore of Cunningham island should be kept aboard until well inside, then two or three small islets will open on the starboard hand, and the boat channel to the
OTTER BAY — SAN JUAN SHOAL. 123
northward between Cunningham and Campbell islands will also open. As soon as the small islets are seen steer for them, and anchor when the SW. and NW. extremes of Cunningham and Campbell islands are in line.
On account of the increased growth of kelp the pilots for these channels do not take heavy draft Vessels into the anchorage, but anchor them on the ridge under Bedwell island. In standing in for this berth, keep the west i)oint of Bedwell island and the highest point of Campbell island in range.
There is no ship passage between Otter and Summer island. Most of this part dries at low water.
The western shore along this part of the channel is high and steep, but the eastern shore is very low as far as the base of mount Burney, which is 5,800 feet high and always covered with snow.
Bradbury rock, about 6 feet above water, lies 3 miles within the south entrance of Mayne channel on the east side of the track ; the rock appears when seen from the north, wedge-shaped and dark, the high part of the wedge being to the eastward. There is also a small rock awash near the NW. and one near the SE. end; kelp extends some distance in a southerly direction from the latter.
Suxnmer island, on the west side of Mayne channel, is 120 feet high, with two islets about 200 yards from the N W. shore of the island. From Henderson point kelp extends for J mile, and with the kelp extending from Long island on the opposite shore forms the narrowest part of the channel; the deepest water is near the Summer island kelp.
Buoy. — A red buoy is moored in 31 feet water on the edge of the ridge which extends from Summer island to Long island. This buoy lies about 200 yards westward of the usual track for vessels, but 100 yards southward of a 4f -fathom patch marked by kelp.
Caution. — The buoys and beacons in the Patagonian channels are not to be depended upon.
Long island, on the east side of Mayne channel, is 3^ miles long and f mile across at its widest part. A range of hills of a red color extends from the SE. point to about f mile from the NW. point; the highest hill, 532 feet high, is near the southern extremity. The island is bar- ren with the exception of Green point (NW. point) and the coast close to the water's edge, where there are a few stunted trees or bushes. After passing Summer island, Long island should not be approached nearer than | mile.
Hartwell bay, eastward of Long island, may afford anchorage among its numerous islands, but it is out of the way.
San Juan shoal, a patch of 13^ feet, lies with the south extreme of Baverstock island bearing N. 79^ W. (S. 79° W. mag.). Green point N. 690 E. (N. 370 E. mag.), and east extreme of Cutler island K. 15o E. (N. 70 W. mag.). A red conical buoy, surmounted by staff and globe, marks its western edge.
124 PATAGOKIAN CHANNELS — ^BANNEN AND QRAT CHANNELS.
Bcumen channel, the imssage east of Long island, is contracted nearly in midway to about 200 yards wide by Alzerreca bank, which extends from the eastern shore.
Abreast a narrow projection 200 yards BE. firom Green point and aboat 20 yards from the shore lies a reef (dry at low water) having a shoal marked by kelp extending i mile in a northeasterly direction. From Peligrosa point a shoal marked by kelp extends in a south- westerly direction, and apparently joins the shoal extending from the reef near Long island. There is, however, between these shoals a channel 400 yards wide, with 10 fathoms water in the center and 4f fathoms on either side.
Directions. — A vessel bound northward through Mayne channel wUl first obtain soundings on the ridge, and after crossing it the water deepens until the bank between Summer and Long islands is reached. The channel over this bank lies midway between the two islands and has in it 5^ fathoms water. The bank appears to have silted up, as 10 fathoms was the least watermark in the old chart by Skyriug.
As Bedwell island is passed Bradbury rock will show, and when passed it should be brought right astern, bearing S. 23<^ E. (S. 45^ E. mag.), and the ship steered N. 23° W. (N. 46° W. mag.) until the shoal water between Summer and Long islands is past, or keep Bradbury rock and the middle and highest of the Francis islets in line. After passing the narrow part of Mayne channel, to avoid the shoal grbund off Long island steer for Baverstock peak until the summit of Cutler island is in line with the gap in the hills made by Isthmus bay, bearing N. 160 E. (N. 6o W. mag.), and keep the mark on until Green point bears S. 79° E. (N. 79^ E. mag.). Going south the northernmost of the Francis islets off Fortune bay, or Boget head if the former can not be seen, should be brought right astern, bearing N. 23^ W. (N. 46° W. mag.), and a S. 23^ E. (S. 45^ E. mag.) course steered for the shoal water until within about a mile of Bradbury rock, when a vessel should haul to the southward, so as to pass midway between the east side of Bedwell island and Dashwood point, keeping Bradbury rock in line with SE. extreme of Long island, bearing K 29^ E. (N. 7^ E. mag.).
Anchorage may be had for a night on the bank, in mid-channel, between Summer and Long islands in 6 or 7 fathoms.
Q-ray channel, leading westward of the Otter and Summer islands, is deeper than Mayne channel, but narrower and more intricate. In fine weather, however, a vessel may, if necessary, pass through it in safety by keeping clear of the kelp by which all the dangers are marked.
Directions. — The two kelp patches off Vereker and Foley islands can be passed on either side, and going northward the left extreme of Hoskyn islet should be steered for until within 600 or 800 yards; then keep for the right extreme of Orlebar island until the narrow is passed. A N. 330 E. (K. 11° E. mag.) course will then lead clear of Glitter rock and up the channel.
FORTUNE BAY — ^HAMPER BAY. 125
Fortune bay, on the SE. side of Baverstock island, is a fair anchor- age for a small vessel, bat too confined for a large one. Keep Low island to the northward, and take care, both on entering and leaving, to give Adeona rock a wide berth, as the kelp extends a long distance off it.
"Lovfr Island beacon. — ^A small beacon has been erected on Low island, Fortune bay.
. Cutler island, 248 feet high, has very high conspicnous land rising in a conical form from a small hammock near the east side and sloping to a point at- the KW. extremity. The north side appears well wooded, while that of the west is barren and of a white color.
Sim rock lies close to its SE. side, and two islets near the west.
Cape Palmer, the SE. point of Eennell island, is low, covered with small trees, and has several flat- topped islets off its extremity 5 within the low point forming the cape the land rises to a considerable height.
Isthmus bay is one of the best anchorages in the channels. It may be known on approaching it from the northward by a remarkable white patch on the land about J mile NW. of Selfe point. The bay is perfectly safe for the largest vessels. The reefs are all marked by kelp, and Labouchere rock breaks when there is any sea. The most secure berth is in the inner bay in 14 to 16 fathoms, bottom of sand.
If not deemed desirable to go far in, a ship passing 300 yards off Trivett point and steering N. 11° E. (N. 11° W. mag.) for J mile will find good anchorage in 20 fathoms, mud, with Selfe point bearing about S. 790 W. (S. 570 W. mag.); or if preferred she may go 200 or 400 yards farther in on nearly the same course.
Beacons. — A beacon 33 feet high, consisting of iron framework pyr- amidal in shape and surmounted by a ball, all painted white, stands a little outside of ^elfe point. There is also a beacon on a hill 60 feet high, about 130 yards east of the point.
Mallet bay, at the head of Isthmus bay, is too shoal to be of much service. The chart must be the guide into this bay.
The same applies to Welcome bay, and port Mardon, its inner basin on the western shore of the channel.
Sandy bay, on the eastern side of the channel, at 3 miles north of Isthmus bay, affords anchorage by passing southward of a long patch of kelp, with 4 fathoms on it, which extends from the northern point nearly in line with the south point. Within this there are 18 to 20 fathoms, but for a large vessel it is not ropommended.
Inlet bay, on the west side of the channel at about 3 miles north of Welcome bay, also affords anchorage, but with Isthmus bay so near these bays are hardly required.
Island bay, on the western side of Hunter island, is said to offer g6od anchorage both to the northward and southward of some islets which lie off it.
Hamper bay, at the SW. end of Piazzi island, has also anchorage in 7 to 15 fathoms. This part of Smyth channel widens to 3J miles,
126 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — ^DIXON COVE.
but at 6 miles farther on, near Geres island, it narrows to 2 miles; hence to the mouth of the channel, where strong NW. winds send in a heavy sea, no anchorage is known, but a small vessel in want of shel- ter would no doubt find some by sending a boat in search.
Victory pass, separating Zach peninsula from Hunter island, con- nects Smyth channel with Collingwood strait and Sarmiento channel on the north, and with Union sound to the SE. The latter leads to the Ancon Sin Salida (or No Thoroughfare cove) of Sarmiento, and thence through Eirke narrows to Obstruction sound and Last Hope inlet, all of which have been carefully examined in the hope of finding an opening into Skyring water.
Brinkley island has a well-defined peak near the SE. end, sloping toward the !N W. The island is of a brownish color, with a few stunted trees on it.
Bessel rock, about 10 feet above water, lies nearly midway between Zach peninsula and Brinkley island, and is quite out of the channel.
Cloyne reef, on the west side of Victory pass abreast Brinkley island, is a circular rocky shoal, just awash and thickly covered with kelp. With strong winds the sea breaks heavily on it, but in thick weather it may not be made out until close upon it. As the shore of Brinkley island is steep-to a vessel should steer for it until the reef is made out and then pass between it and the island. The passage between it and Hunter island is only 600 yards across, but when the reef is in sight the passage is safe, and with a low-powered vessel, if the wind is down the channel, it is advisable to keep that side so as not to be set farther to leeward than necessary.
A spindle is erected on Cloyne reef in place of the beacon formerly marking it.
William bay, on the west side of Hunter island, is well sheltered and affords a good stopping place for boats, but there is not room in it for a vessel of any length.
La Place islands, off the SE. point of Newton island, are a group of low, flat-topped islands, covered with bushes and trees. The largest, La Place island, forms the eastern side of the north channel to Bixon cove.
Dizon cove, between the south end of Newton island and La Place islands, is about 500 yards in extent, and has a passage in and out at either end. It is much more sheltered than Columbine cove, and its only objection is the depth of water, the anchorage being in 24 fathoms, but the holding ground is good, consisting of clay, sand, and mud. Coming from the southward, this cove opens as soon as Eoss point (Hunter island) is passed, and Catalina island may be passed on either side; coming from the northward, follow the coast of Newton island for the opening, which will appear between it and the largest of La Place islands, and enter the cove from the northward. If the usual northerly wind be blowing with any force, however, it will be better to pass east- ward of La Place group altogether and enter the cove from the south- ward, head to wind.
COLUMBINE COVE — OCCASION COVE. 127
Columbine cove, 3 miles northward of Dixon cove, is the next anchorage. Ward peninsula^ which forms the north side of the cove, is a rocky knob joined to the mainland by a sandy neck covered with trees. It is fairly sheltered, but at times the williwaws down the steep mountain side over it are furious. When blowing hard a vessel should not anchor in the cove, the best berth being in 15 to 16 fathoms water, a little outside a line joining Powlett and Slader points. Excellent wood for steaming purposes may be obtained.
Shingle road, on the north side of Ward peninsula, affords anchor- age under the northern point in 18 fathoms, and a little farther out in 25 fathoms, but with very little shelter.
SARMIENTO CHANNEL. (H. O. Charts 446 and 446a).
This channel communicates with Smyth channel through CoUing- wood strait and Victory pass, and stretches 70 miles to the northward, between Piazzi island and Staines peninsula, thence to the eastward of Vancouver and Esperanza island to the entrance of Peel inlet on the east side of the channel, where it unites with Estevan channel, and both merge into the Inocentes channel through Guia narrows. From Oollingwood strait to Sarmiento channel the passage takes a sharp turn to the westward for about 4 miles between Newton and Carrington islands, but as St. Bartelome point, the south extreme of Carrington island, is steep-to, this bend need not be necessarily lengthened by keeping mid-channel.
In the southern end of Staines peninsula is a large harbor, but the water is too deep for anchorage.
Occasion cove, on the Piazzi island east shore at the foot of Alfredo hill, north side of Lecky retreat, affords anchorage in 13 fathoms, stone and shell, with Eamillete islet bearing East (N. 69^ E. mag.).
The anchorage is, however, only fit for a stopping place in fine weather, and no other anchorage could be found in Lecky retreat.
On the opposite side of the channel, just south of Lecky retreat, there are two openings, but they appeared full of rock and kelp, with- out any promise of anchorage 5 and as Skyring says that he and Mr. Kirke carefully searched that part for anchorage, it is to be presumed that none exists. There is a kelp patch off the northern of these open- ings, which must be avoided; it lies about S. 66^ W. (S. 45° W. mag.), J mile from the KW. point of the inlet.
Directions. — ^Vessels proceeding into Occasion cove should, when abreast Lecky retreat, steer to pass between Titus islets and Ohatas rocks, which extend 150 yards from the north side of entrance, thence for a high hill at the head of Lecky retreat, bearing S. 46^ W. (S. 25° W. mag.) ; and after passing Eamillete islet, steer for Alfredo hill, which will lead to the anchorage. In the kelp surrounding Titus islets, 4| to 7 fathoms water were obtained.
128 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — 8ABMIENT0 CHANNEL.
A kelp patch is in midchannel between Titus islets and Ghatas rocks, upon which the least depth found was 6 fathoms.
About 3 miles north of Occasion cove is a well-sheltered bay, with anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms, mud. Two islets mark its entrance, and there is a large kelp patch and several rocks southward of it
When entering, keep the northern shore aboard to avoid a small kelp patch nearly in the middle, and when in, hard-a-port and anchor in depth as above.
Hamilton point — About 7 miles north of Lecky retreat, on tbe north side of Hamilton point, there is a fairly sheltered bay that may be used as a stopping place. It is, however, rather confined and exposed to the northward, but afibrds anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, mud.
Between Lecky retreat and Hamilton point the shore is fronted by numerous isl9.nds.
Double Peak island, midway between capes San Mateo and St. Vincent, is a good mark for determining a vessel's position, especially at night, as it shows out well from the background. The two peaks lie in a NW. and SE. direction. The NW. peak, 960 feet high, is the higher of the two.
Themis inlet is on the east side of Vancouver island, 4 miles north of Don Pedro point. Mr. Hanham, of the yacht Themis^ anchored in this inlet inside the islets off the NE. point of it. He says: <*Go south of the island and go easy, and a good anchorage will be found, taking care not to shut in the rocks south of the western point of the entrance.''
Evans Island rocks. — On the east side of the channel, 2f miles northward of cape San Mateo, the south extreme of Evans island, there is a rock that covers at high water about 200 yards offshore ; also another on which the sea breaks, 3^ miles farther northward, about 200 yards offshore.
Mayne harbor, on the eastern side of the channel, 5 miles KE. of Themis inlet, has an inner and outer anchorage, of which the inner one is preferable, but both are safe and landlocked. The entrance is eastward of all the islands off its mouth. A vessel may anchor either in 13 or 14 fathoms of water in the outer bight, or go on to the inner one and select a berth in 7 or 8 fathoms, mud.
On the west side of the entrance to this port lies a rock having about 2 feet of water over it and 3J to 4J fathoms close around. From this rock the SE. point of Eclipse island bears S. 30o W. (S. 9° W. mag.), distant nearly 200 yards.
A shelf with 13 feet of water over it, sometimes marked by kelp, extends 150 feet off Lecky point, on the east side of the entrance to the outer anchorage. Vessels must be very careful to preserve a mid-chan- nel course, not only to avoid the shelf, but also some detached spots off the islands. Wood for steaming purposes may be had in abundance.
Anchorage will be found outside the harbor between Eclipse island and Eichard point, in 26 fathoms, sandy bottom, but without much shelter.
SAN MARCOS POINT — LATITUDE COVE. 129
San Marcos point, 15 miles northward of Mayne harbor and 4 miles SE, of Puerto Bueno, may be known by a remarkable round- topped mountain with a cascade at the base, a little north of the point. The land between this point and cape San Antonio, 10 miles farther on, is high nearly all the way.
Delgada point, 2i miles from San Marcos point, has a reef with 3 feet least water and 16 to 22 fathoms close- to extending about 50 yards from it. Kelp is said to show at low water on this reef.
Puerto Bueno, 2 miles north of Delgada point, is an excellent port, in which a vessel may find good anchorage in 8 to 9 fathoms in the middle of the harbor or in 4 to 5 fathoms nearer the shore. It has an inner and outer harbor, both safe, the former, of course, most sheltered.
The entrance is between Pounds island and Hankin point. A small vessel may enter between Hoskins and Pounds islands, but there is little to be gained by going in that way. Hecate rock occupies an awkward position in this passage.
There is a large fresh-water lake just above the inner harbor which empties itself by a small cascade into a little bight at its head.
Schooner cove, just north of Hoskins island, is adapted for boats or very small vessels; it has a sandy beach at its head.
Bonduca island, near the center of the channel, 4 miles north of Puerto Bueno, is low, with two small islets off its north end, connected with it by reefs a few feet under water. There is also a reef off* the south end of this island, with a rock above water.
Cape Charles, the SW. point of Chatham island, is the most promi- nent of the many headlands in that vicinity. The cape is high, rugged, and barren. From abreast the cape the high north end of Esperanza island will appear over the isle de dos Ganales on the west side of the channel, and Cocked Hat island, about 1,500 feet high, Goscheu island, also very high, on the east side abreast the isle de dos Canales.
Europa point, on the north side of cape Charles, is low, but steep.
Reported rock. — A rock was originally reported to lie S. 63^ W. (S. 420 W. mag.), f mile from Europa poiut, and indications of shoal water in that locality were again reported. This rock was not found by vessels which made a close examination of the neighborhood.
Latitude cove, in latitude 50° 51' S., on the west side of Sarmiento channel, is nearly 200 yards wide at its entrance, with 14 to 17 fathoms water. About J mile within the entrance there is a small bay in which the deepest water is 22 fathoms, bottom ooze. At the head of this bay there is a beach, but the shores on either side are rocky and steep.
Entering Latitude cove, keep toward the southeastern shore, where the water is deepest, and to avoid the rocks off Blanca point when within the entrance steer about S. 44^ W. (S. 23° W, mag.), passing nearly 200 yards west of Eliza point. On nearing this point a remark- able cascade will be seen to the westward, between which and Eliza point, anchorage may be obtained in 18 to 20 fathoms water, X943— No, 89 9
130 PATAGONIAH CHANNELS — ^INOCENTES CHANNEL.
Gnia (Ouide) narrows are between Hanover and Chatham islands, and connect Sarmiento and Inocentes channels. They are 6 miles long and from 1 to 1^ miles wide, except at the north end, between Por- poise i)oint, which is a low and sharp point on the west side, and Guard island on the east, where the breadth is about 400 yards, but there is no danger, the shores being steep-to on either side. Sometimes the tide sweeps strongly around the i)oint, therefore it would be advisable to keep nearer Guard island in passing through.
Ladder hill, 1,285 feet high at the SW. entrance to Guia narrows, is conspicuous when approaching the narrows from either eud, having the appearance of being cut in large steps.
There is a little cove under the hill in which II. M. S. Malacca spent a night, but it is quite unfit for anything but a schooner or gunboat, and not good for these.
Unfit bay is too deep for anchorage, but in fine weather a vessel can make fast to the shore by hawsers.
Tides. — The stream of the flood in the narrows runs to the eastward and the ebb stream to the westward at the rate of 2^ to 3^ knots an hour at springs, strong overfalls exist on the ebb stream of springs just outside the western entrance of the narrows. North of these narrows the flood stream sets to the southward, while in Sarmiento channel it sets to the northward.
INOCENTES CHANNEL.
' This channel commences at the Guia narrows, and is 18 miles long to the north extreme of Inocentes island, where it joins Conception chan- nel. The south side of the channel is formed by a succession of high cones sloping to the NW. and ending in the Clements group. On the north side are three precipitous headlands with deep inlets between; the land then trends to the northward, and the foreground consists of islands rising to about 400 feet in height.
Rayo cove, immediately southward of Porpoise point, is a small and deep cove. When entering the eastern shore must be kept aboard to allow room for roundingto. The anchorage is in from 27 to 33 fathoms, rocky bottom, and can not be recommended; shoaler water of from 5J to 13 fathoms, sand bottom, will be found on the western side of the cove close eastward of some islands, but there is not room to swing.
Port Ochovario, on the northern shore nearly oi)posite Eayo cove, is a narrow fiord between lofty mountains, useless for general purposes. An anchorage in 22 fathoms, coarse sand, can be obtained at its head, off a conspicuous bluff on the southern shore, but should only be used in case of absolute necessity.
Paroquet cove, on the north shore at 2f miles west of Port Ocho- vario, affords anchorage in 30 fathoms, sand, but it is fit only for small vessels. The entrance may be recognized by three small islets off its eastern entrance point, and a rounded wooded hill at the head of the bay. The surrounding land is low and wooded.
JUAN ISLAND INOCENTES ISLAND. 131
Juan island, on the north side of the chaouel at 1^ miles west of Paroquet cove, will be immediately recognized as a double island, with a long low depression in the middle and forming a bluff point at its southern end.
Wide bay, east of Juan island, is deep and rocky, but well sheltered and useful to vessels bound north meeting with a stroug head gale on roundiug Juan island. To enter it, the coast of Juan island should be kept aboard to avoid Eamses rock, lying in the middle of the bay with 5 feet water over it. When near the head the water shoals quickly from 40 to 20 fathoms, and anchorage will be found with Green islet, a small rocky islet 15 feet high, bearing N. 21° E. (North mag.), and a low hill on the NE. part of Juan island N. 71° W. (S. 88o W. mag.). There is ample room in this bay for large vessels, but the bottom is rocky.
Edixrards rock, on the north side of the channel at 2^ miles from Juan island, lies in a direct line between the SW. extreme of Juan island and Wheeler islets. Although it is reported as being awash at low water, the U. S. S. Pintaj in 1884, passed close to the position at half tide, and although a very heavy sea was running there was no break- ing of the water to mark it. There is very little kelp over it.
Robert island, at 2^ miles NNW. of Juan island, is double-peaked^ shaped like a saddle, and very conspicuous when seen from the north- ward. The southern and eastern coasts of Robert island were searched for anchorage without success.
Wheeler islets i'rom the northward and westward appear as one long islet covered with small trees. They are useful in thick weather in mark- ing the entrauce of Inocentes channel, as they are often seen when the higher land is hidden. They are 3^ miles eastward of Inocentes island.
Artillery bay, 4^ miles ENE. of Inocentes island, is of no impor- tance. Taylor rock, 3 feet high, is the westernmost of several islands in the entrance to the bay.
Inocentes island has its southern extremity very low, with several low islets and rocks lying off it. The land rises gradually from the south point to the NW. end, forming a fiat ridge. Diana hill is flat- topped, and is easily recognized from both north and south.
Captain von Gloeden, commanding the German surveying vessel HydnCj in 1880, reports that small vessels may find anchorage during northerly winds in a bay at the south end of this island. The depths found on approaching the bay were from 6 J to 14 fathqms. The Hydne anchored in 14 fathoms, sand and stones, with Hope island bearing N. 40 E. (N. 170 W. mag.), and the SW. point of Inocentes island K. 740 W. (S. 850 W. mag.). A small opening was found between the reefs, about 50 yards wide, having a depth of 13 J fathoms; some of these reefs are dry at low water and all are covered with kelp. There are 3 J to 9 J fathoms water in the bay.
Vessels should pass to the eastward of Inocentes island, as Infernet rocks, about 2 miles westward of Inocentes island, are very difficult to make out in thick weather.
132 PATAOONIAN CHANNEIi — CONCEPCION CHANNEL.
West chcuinel, at 7^ miles westward of Inoceiites island, separates Duke of York island from Madre islands. The channel is narrow, bat appears wide, owing to the land on the north side being very low. The sealers rei)ort the passage fall of islets and rocks and anfit for navigation. At 3 miles within the eastern entrance an arm extends to the northward and joins Monteith sound; it also probably commani- cates with a passage (Grove soand) which was traced from Molyneux sound 12 miles in a SW. direction.
Caracciolo bay, on the north side of West channel, 5^ miles west- ward of Anunciada point, the N£. extreme of Duke of York island, affords anchorage in 14 fathoms, gravel bottom, in the center of the bay, and it is reported to be a safe* refuge in bad weather.
CONCBPCION CHANNEL.
This channel separates the Ma<lre islands from the mainland. It commences at Inocentes island and terminates at Brassey pass, the junction of Trinidad and Wide channels, a distance of 30 miles, with an average breadth of 5 miles in the southern and 2^ miles in the north- ern part. On its west side are many inlets, but the only good anchor- ages are Molyneux sound and Tom bay. The Alert, when surveying, anchored in Port Bermejo, Monteith sound, and in Walker bay, and these served her purpose, but can not be recommended as good anchor- ages. Indeed, the SE. coast of Madre islands south of Molyneux sound should not be approached within a mile, except in case of necessity, as the soundings are very irregular and the coast studded with rocks and small islets. For a sealer and such small craft there ^re many useful berths in that part.
EASTERN SHORE.
Tapering point, about 4 miles NE. of Inocentes island, is a long, low, and wooded point, with a depth of 150 fathoms ^ mile west of it.
A patch of 7 feet marked by kelp lies N. 18° W. (N. 39o W. mag.), distant IJ miles from Tapering point, and S. 5lio W. (S. 31^ W. mag.), ^ mile from the western Chance island. From it a bank having 15 fathoms least depth extends one mile SW.
Chance islands, If miles north of Tapering point, being low and wooded, are difficult to distinguish when seen on with the land east- ward of them. Vessels passing through Ooncepcion channel should not approach this coast within a distance of at least 2 miles.
Eardley bay is a deep inlet, at 1^ miles north of Chance islands. Kocky islet, 3 feet high, with a clear passage NW. of it, lies in the entrance. At the head of the bay depths of 23 fathoms, rock, were obtained, but in an exposed and confined situation. There is a creek at the northern part of Eardley bay, but a rock bars the passage to all but very small craft.
Childers bluff is easily made out from either direction, showing out as a bold headland. The summit has two steps and is thickly wooded.
HUGH BAY — ^PORTLAND BAY. 133
At the base of cape Ghilders lie two wooded islands (Charles islands), 90 feet high, which appear from the southward as one island. Prom the northward they look like a wooded bluff with a rounded top.
Hugh bay, 2^ miles north of cape Ghilders, has good anchorage in 20 to 26 fathoms water, bottom of mud. It is well sheltered from all but northwesterly winds, and even with this wind no sea sets in. The entrance is obstructed by a group of rocks and islets, dividing it into two passages. It can be entered on either side of these rocks and islets, but the northern entrance is the better. Outlying rocky patches, marked by kelp, must be guarded against by keeping close to the north shore if using the northern passage or the south shore aboard if the southern passage is used.
Directions. — Stand midway between South Culling island and Gull rock, and from thence to the eastward of Middle inland. The wind being generally astern, a vessel will have room to roundup into the anchorage. As there are no good leading marks, it is best to judge the distance by the eye. When using the southern passage keep Stud island close aboard. Bone island (a low rock), touching the south side of Euff rock, bearing S. 46^ E. (S. 67^ E. mag.), clears the sunken dan- ger S. 890 W. (S. 680 W. mag.) of Gull rock. The Alert anchored in 21 fathoms water, bottom of sand, with Wigwam point bearing N. 12° W. (N. 330 W. mag.), during fresh winds from the NW. to SW., but suffered no inconvenience from wind or sea.
Cape San Andres, the west extreme of Canning island is 5 miles north of Hugh bay. The cape is a low promontory, with a flat-topped range 1,000 feet high IJ miles to the eastward of it. It forms the northern entrance of Andrew sound, which has not been examined. The cape may be passed in safety at a distance of i mile.
Moraine islands, If miles north of cape San Andres, are two wooded islands, the southern and larger being 150 feet high and the northern one 52 feet. At J mile northward and eastward from the northern island is a bare rock, 4 feet high, with foul ground between them. Vessels should not pass southward of these islands. Two large kelp patches extend some distance into the channel.
Gteorge island, the next large island north of Canning, is distin- guishable from the southward by the tall, rounded summit, 2,003 feet high, near its eastern end.
Portland bay, formed by Portland island, 104 feet high, and the SW. extreme of George island, affords a good and convenieut anchorage for vessels of moderate size.
Directions. — It may be entered from either the SE. or NW., but the former is preferable, as a current generally sets to the SE. through the bay. Approaching it from the southward a small islet, Tall Tree islet, with a group of tall, straight trees on its summit, will be seen. Keep this islet bearing K. 44^ B. (N. 23° E. mag.) until Green point bears N. 32° W. (N. 53o W. mag.), then change course to N. io W. (N.
134 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — MONTEITH SOUND.
220 W. mag.), passing between Entry rock and Green point into the anchorage. Care mast be taken when avoiding the shoal off Green point that the current does not take the x)ort bow and set the vessel over Entry rock. In entering from the NW. when the passage is open, Tall Tree islet will be seen through, bearing 8.52° E. (S. 73o E. mag.); then steer in midway between Portland and George islands in not less than 6 fathoms.
Anchorage. — A good berth for a vessel to lie at single anchor is in 7 to 11 fathoms stiff, blue clay, with Green point bearing 8. 32° W. (S. no W. mag.) and Entry rocks 8. 46^ E. (8. 67o E. mag.), but if going to remain a vessel should moor in a berth 200 yards farther to the westward. A group of small islands and rocks lie one mile to the eastward of this bay, fronting a deep bay in George island, at the head of which a vessel may moor in 18 fathoms water, bottx)m of rock; but being foul and uneven, this place is not recommended.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Portland bay at noon; springs rise 4 feet. At J mile west of Portland island the current always runs to the southward.
Cape Clanricarde, one mile north of George island, has a small islet off it, and hence northward to Lecky inlet the sliore is steep-to, with no anchorage in the small indentations of the coast line.
Lecky inlet (in Wide channel) is marked by a high cone over Squire point, the north entrance point of the inlet. When approaching from the northward, this cone appears as a long hogback. No anchorage has been found on the shores of the inlet.
Arthur islands lie off the south entrance jwint of Lecky inlet; between them and the shore is a deep passage without anchorage.
WESTERN SHORE.
Port Bermejo, at the 8E. extreme of Madre island, is a small anchor- age among the islands north of cape Cortes; it may be recognized by a bright sandy beach, which has a pool of fresh water inshore of it. The Alert found this anchorage useful in a heavy gale from the NW., but it is only fit for moderate-sized vessels; it affords but indifferent protection.
A rock with only 6 feet of water over it, and not marked by kelp, lies in the fairway of the southern passage. Vessels, therefore, should not attempt to enter south of 8helter island. On closing the coast three small wooded islands will be seen. 8teer for Eat island 8. 89^ W. (8. 68° W. mag.), and pass mid-channel between it and Cat island; then haul to the southward, and anchor in 9 to 13 fathoms, bottom of sand, off the sand beach.
It is possible this may be the harbor mentioned in Sarmiento's narrative.
Monteith sound, at the head of Landslip sound, has good anchor- age. To enter, vessels should pass 400 yards south of 8nout point, and
MOKTEITH SOTIND — ^MOX^YNEUX SOUND. 135
Steer North (N. 21o W. mag.) up Landslip sound. A reef extends half way across the sound from the eastern shore between two low islands. Keep the west island close aboard, and when past it steer for Turn point, gradually hauling into the sound, keeping the north shore aboard. Anita rock and two kelp patches on the port hand just west of Turn point show well.
Anchorage. — Tlie anchorage is in 15 to 20 fathoms, mud, with Sun- day mountain bearing I^orth (K 21° W. mag.), distant f mile. From the anchorage a channel leads into Passage inlet, but it is only fit for boats. Passjige inlet then joins West channel.
Caution. — ^The passage at Turn point leading north of Hocico de Caiman is foul, and should not be attempted.
Hocico de Caiman (Alligator's snout) island is mountainous, the summit forming a cone, 1 ,191 feet high, sloping down to a low point at f mile north of port Bermejo. When seen from the northward a small nipple shows about half way down on the east face of the cone, which then slopes down to a low point. Numerous islands lie north of Hocico de Caiman, extending to Walker bay. Between them is Snare bay, a foul and useless bight. Vessels should not approach within one mile of this portion of the coast.
Wake island, 40 feet high, forms the south entrance point of Walker bay. Anchorage in 22 fathoms, mud, for small vessels may be found in Wilson cove, 200 yards westward of Wake island; it is, how- ever, exposed to northerly winds, and can not be recommended, but might prove useful on occasion.
Fox point, IJ miles north of Wake island, is difficult to distinguish when approaching from the southward, but is readily recognized from the northward by Walker step, a flat-topped hill, 437 feet high, with a steep fall on the eastern side near the summit, which then slopes down to the point.
Mussel rock, which dries 3 feet at low water, lies J mile off Fox point, and 400 yards northward from this rock there is a shoal patch marked by kelp with 8 feet water on it.
Walker bay, between Wake island and Fox point, is deep, but anchorage fit only for very small vessels can be obtained on the north shore under a conspicuous cone, 1,884 feet high. The best anchorage is in the north part of the bight between Lapis and Parker points, but the water deepens rapidly to 45 fathoms 400 yards off Parker point. Fox and Lapis points may be passed 200 yards distant in 13 fathoms. Mussel rock and the patch northward of it are steep-to, and vessels can pass on either side, but the northern entrance will be found most convenient.
Coast. — The coast between Walker bay and Molyneux sound is clear with the exception of a rock, awash at high water, resembling a boat, 200 yards off Galeotilla point.
Molyneuz sonnd, 4 miles north of Walker bay, is broad and exten- sive. A branch named Grove sound, leading to the SW., probably
136 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — ^DON PEDEO INLET.
•
joins WeAt channel, as it does not connect with Walker bay. The sound is connected with Temple inlet by a clear channel west of Dram- mond Hay island. Off the north shore, nearly one mile from the entrance, is a convenient anchorage, one of the easiest of access in the channel. The serioas objection to it is the heavy squalls which come down the extensive sound to the westward, striking a vessel with full force. The U. S. S. Pinta rode out a heavy gale with two anchors down, wind from the IfW., varying in force from 4 to 11.
Dangers. — ^A rocky patch with 8 feet water on it, about 200 yards in j
diameter, lies J mile south from Michael point (the northern point of entrance to Molyneux sound), with a clear passage 150 yards wide between. Another patch lies J mile east from Michael point, having 12 feet water on it. Vessels on entering should keep to the southward of these patches, which are both marked by kelp, but do not show well.
Buoy. — On the southern edge of this rocky patch south of Michael point a buoy is moored iu 24 feet water. The buoy is cylindrical in shape, and is painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Miguel on it in white letters upon a black ground.
Fawn rock, on which H. M. S. Fawn struck in 1870, lies jS^. 47^ W. (N. 68° W. mag.), distant 900 yards from Michael point, and is steep-to.
Buoy. — On the SW. side of this rock a buoy, cylindrical (vertically) in shape, painted red, surmounted by a tripod and framework globe, painted white, is moored in 12 fathoms water.
Directions. — Vessels on entering should keep to the southward of the shoal patches off Michael point, which are marked with kelp, but do not show well. If the buoy is in place, pass well south of it. Approaching the sound the high hUl, 1,392 feet high, over Eogers point must not be brought southward of West (S. 69^ W. mag.) until Michael point bears North (N. 21° W. mag.), when head up the sound, keeping the south shore aboard; and when Liomulo island bears N. 7° W. (N. 280 W. mag.) steer for it on this bearing; when Fawn rock is passed steer N. 10° E. (N. 11° W. mag.) for the anchorage. A small rock, with 18 feet water over it, lies 150 yards south of Eomulo island.
Dnimmond Hay island, forming the north shore of Molyneux sound, is high, rising to a cone 1,451 feet high in its south part. The east coast, is clear with the exception of the shoals oft* Michael point previously i
mentioned. "
Temple inlet, between Drummond Hay island and Ohaine island at i mile north of it, affords good anchorage in 15 fathoms, on a bottom composed of mud between rocks, on the north shore 2J miles within the entrance; but a sharp turn to the northward, over a rocky ledge, between two islets, is against its general usefulness. The eastern islet will be readily recognized by a single tree and a few bushes on it, differ- ing in this respect from all adjacent islands. The chart is the best guide.
Don Pedro inlet, north of Ohaine island, has an anchorage in 27 fathoms, muddy bottom, one mile from the entrance; it communicates by a boat passage with Temple inlet.
TOM BAY — TIJZARD ANCHORAGE. 137
Tom Bay anchorages, 2 miles north of Don Pedro inlet, inclnde Tom bay, Senoret harbor, Tizard anchorage, and Henderson inlet. These anchorages are a short distance from the main channel, and the strong gales from seaward through Oaffin pass seldom reach them. They are therefore freer from strong winds than other ports near, and, having convenient anchorages for vessels of all sizes, are very valuable.
Tom Bay. — From the southward this bay is not easily recognized from the numerous openings south of it. The navigator's best course in thick weather is to run the distance by patent log from Inocentes island, and when nearing Tom bay, David islets, 50 feet high, showing as two round, wooded knobs, will be seen. In clear weather mount Bromley, 1,110 feet high, marks the bay, appearing as a smooth, round- topped hill. Clements hill, 670 feet high, about 1^ miles north of the anchorage, is also a good mark, showing as a flat-topped hill, the west- ern part being the highest. From the northward there is no difficulty in making out the bay. This anchorage has been much used by the steamers of the Kosmos company. The usual anchorage, between Center Island and Station patch, is very irregular and rocky. Station patch, well marked by kelp, extends about 300 yards SE. from William point. It has 3 fathoms over it.
Senoret harbor, opening into the south part of Tom bay, extends nearly 3 miles in a westerly direction, with an average width of 600 yards. The entrance is narrow, and in heavy weather appears to break right across. Center rock, awash at high water, is at the end of the spit off Center island, and narrows the entrance to 70 yards.
Kingfisher rock, with 13 feet of water over it, lies at the head of Senoret harbor, and a shoal extending northward for 150 yards from Yiel point contracts the channel between the rock and point to 100 yards.
Beacons. — There are two temporary beacons on the north shore of Child island, just west of Mather island, and one on the main, about 300 yards farther west, to act as a leading mark for entering. Should the beacons be down, vessels should not attempt to enter without first marking the edge of the shoal off Center rock.
Directions. — If the beacons are up, room must be taken outside to bring them in line bearing almost west, which will lead in mid-channel between Mather island and Center rock. If the beacons are down, mark Center rock and bring the north extreme of Child island to bear N.880 W. (S. 710 W. mag.), then a mid-channel course between Mather island and Center rock, in not less than 7 fathoms; when Center rock is abeam, change course to IS". 60^ W. (N. 81^ W. mag.) and anchor as convenient. From Kob point to the head of the harbor the bottom is stiff mud ; outside of Nob point it is rocky. Perfectly sheltered anchor- age in 11 to 17 fathoms will be found at the head of the harbor.
Tizard anchorage, just north of Tom bay, affords excellent shelter for small vessels in 11 fathoms, muddy bottom, secure from all winds. The entrance is between Parry island on the south and Wingate island
-^ I
138 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — ^HENDEBSON INLET.
on the north, from which Murray patch extends 150 yards in a south- easterly direction. Care should be taken not to mistake the rocky pass between Parry island and Stratford island, just south of it, for the passage in.
The entrance is obstructed by a rock, with 16 feet water over it at low-water springs, lying mid-channel between Rat and Maine islands.
Directions. — Having closed the port, steer for Wingate island, bear- ingN.69oW. (West mag.) till the east extreme of Stratford island bears S. ICO w. (S, 50 K. mag.), then close the north shore of Parry island to avoid Murray i)atch, which is well marked by kelp. Keep the kelp bordering the shores of Parry and Rat island tolerably close aboard, to avoid the IG-foot rock in mid-channel, which will give not less than 4 fathoms water. When abreast the west extreme of Maine island steer for the anchorage.
Anchorage may tie obtained in 16 fathoms, mud, with the south extreme of Wingate island bearing If. 83^ E. (N. 62° E. mag.), and Datum i^oint, the west extreme of Stratford island, S. 10^ E. (S. 31o E. mag.).
Inner aoichorage. — If intending to proceed farther up, steer K 74^ W. (S. 85° W. mag.) between Single Tree and Unit islands. Pass between Scot island and a rock with a peculiar bush on its summit, off Bond point, and anchor in 12 fathoms, mud, with Bond point bearing S. 80° E. (N. 790 E. mag.) and Observatory islet S. 40 E. (S. 26o E. mag.). A reef extends NW. 200 yards from Observatory islet. The Alert gener- ally used this anchorage when surveying the locality, and rode securely during several strong gales.
Henderson inlet, the northernmost of the Tom bay anchorages, has the easiest entry and is strongly recommended for vessels requiring to anchor in this vicinity.
Directions. — Close Mehegan point, the northern entrance point of the inlet, which is steep-to, and bring the north point of Fletcher island to bear IIT. 58^ W. (N. 79^ W. mag.), and steer for it on that bearing, leaving all the islands to port. Burnt Forest hill in line with Spero rock K. 490 W. (N. 70^ W. mag.) also leads in. Pass between Capato point and Wingate island, taking care to avoid Murray patch, and to keep 100 yards north of Fletcher island. Anchor in 15 fathoms, sand and rock, with the west point of Fletcher island bearing S. 7° E. (S. 28^ B. mag.) and White cliff S. 8O0 E. (N. 79o E. mag.).
Oaution.r— A shoal that uncovers at low water lies 950 yards west- ward of the White cliff; vessels should not, therefore, have too much way on when passing Fletcher island.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tom bay at noon ; springs rise 4 feet.
On Datum point, the west extreme of Stratford island, a lead plug, at the point of a large broad arrow mark, was let into the south side of a flat-topped granite rock facing Wigwam point. The mean level of
TRINIDAD CHANNEL — ^REMARKS. 139
the sea is 5 feet 6 inches below the top of this lead plug. The rise of tide is much affected by the wind, a SW. wind apparently keeping the water in Concepcion channel. In Senoret harbor an under current runs in opposition to the surface current to a depth of 6 fathoms. The sur- face currents in the inlets never exceed J knot an hour.
Day bay, 2 miles north of Mehegan point, has confined anchorage in 18 fathoms.
Brazo Ancho, the NE. point of Madre islands, is low, but the land at the back rises abruptly to a height of 1,215 feet, formiug a conspic- uous object when seen either from the northward or southward
TRINIDAD CHANNEL. (H. O. Charts Nos. 446a and 447.)
G-eneral Remarks. — ^The frequent tempestuous weather and heavy seas experienced off the western entrance to Magellan strait render the entrance into the Pacific by that route at times difficult, even for vessels of great steampower. The weather and the sea in Trinidad channel and its offing, 160 miles north of Magellan strait, are generally more moderate, and hence it offers a favorable route for vessels pro- ceeding into the Pacific ocean when 4;hat by Magellan strait can not be advantageously used. It is also an excellent channel by which to pass out to the Pacific from the Patagonian channel, when the delay occasioned by the English narrows in Messier channel will be avoided.
The channel is 38 miles long from the eastern entrance of Caffin pass to Primero point, the south extreme of Corso peninsula; clear, with deep water, and high hills along the southern shore, while low land and clus- ters of islands mark the northern side.
As in the main strait, off cape Pillar, the water at the western entrance of Trinidad channel is shoal, from 17 to 40 fathoms; hence there is often a short rough sea even in fine weather. Inside, the water is deeper, and generally the swell does not come beyond cape Candelaria.
Although the water in Trinidad channel is deep, there is a ridge across the channel between Arragon island (on the west side of the entrance to port Henry) and Oorso peninsula, on which the least water obtained was 17 fathoms, 8 miles westward of Seal rocks, but the aver- age depth is from 30 to 40 fathoms. This ridge was not extensively examined; it is, however, probable that no dangers exist beyond those charted, as even in the roughest weather, with a heavy swell, no break- ers were observed. The water deepens on the western side to 40 fathoms.
The south shore is broken iiito several fiords, most of which are deep. There are two anchorages, Puerto del Morro and port Henry. Port Eosario is a small and indifferent anchorage.
The north shore is low and wooded, but high hills rise at the distance of 1 or 2 miles inland. The more northern ranges are snow capped.
140 PATAGONIAK CHAKHELS — ^TRINIDAD CHANNEL.
The anchorages are Port Charraa and Kathleen anchorage, in Brassey pass, and Alert harbor. On the south side the characteristics are rag- ged pinnacles and hills, gray from the large masses of limestone exx>osed. At first sight these appear snow capped. Horn peak is readily made oat. Bugged head is not readily distinguished. . Eastern peaks are very conspicuous and appear as if they formed the southern entrance of the channel; they are crowned by three pinnacles. When closer the Organ Pipes can be distinguished; when north of Bugged head it will be known by a pyramidal mass of rock off it and a x)eculiar projection on its side.
Though recommended as a safe channel to pass out to sea by, it should not be entered from the Pacific in the dark or in thick weather when the high land of Corso on one hand and Three peaks and Eastern peaks on the other can not be made out. The sea sometimes breaks 4 miles from the land, and in thick weather a vessel would be among the breakers before sighting the land. In fine weather, when the peaks are visible, there need be no hesitation in entering this channel.
Most dangers are marked by kelp, but this must not be depended upon, as the kelp is sometimes torn off in a heavy sea.
Wind. — The wind is almost constant from north to west and accom- panted by rain. The direction of the wind is, however, altered in the channels, and nearly always blows down them from the northward. Gales are frequent and generally come with squalls and thick weather; breaks of fine weather occur sometimes, but they are rare and short. Thunder and lightning are rare.
Barometer. — The barometer is a usefal guide, but its changes often accompany rather than foretell the changes of weather. A steady barometer, whether high or low, is a better indicator of fine weather than a high unsteady glass. The mean barometer for seven months was 29.79.
Iris island, i mile SE, of Brazo Ancho point, is a small grassy islet 20 feet high. The two small rocks SW. of it are steep-to and may be passed 200 yards distant on either hand. The passage between Iris and Cecil islands is clear and can be used in safety.
Topar island, dividing the eastern entrance of Trinidad channel into Caffin and Brassey passes, is 2,150 feet high and wooded about 800 feet up, the sammit being a bare rocky table top. The shores are free from reefs and outlying dangers, but afford no anchorage. On the west side is Loveless bay, deep and open to the prevailing westerly winds. Moreton island, lying ^-niile off* the SE. shore, is about 40 feet high and wooded. Some rocks, well marked by kelp, lie J mile !NT^E. from the island, but are out of the track of navigation.
SOUTHERN SHORE.
CaflEui pass, leading from Goncepcion to Trinidad channel south of Topar island, is IJ miles wide, with 116 to 190 fathoms near the center.
GOET ISLAND — ^PILOT ISLAND. 141
Gort island, 90 feet high, 400 yards north of Brazo Ancho point, is steep-to and can be passed at 200 yards, but ve&sels should not pass between it and Brazo Ancho point.
Brazo peninsula. — From Brazo Ancho point to Delgado sound, 5 miles farther !NW., there is no anchorage. Vessels should pass to the southward of both Gunn rock and Medio island, and if the weather be thick and misty it is advisable to close the coast of Brazo peninsula, which is steep-to and free from danger.
Gunn rock, with 7 feet water over it, and irregular soundings of 20 to 100 fathoms within a short distance around, lies nearly | mile S. 380 E. (S. 590 E. mag.) from the SE. extreme of Medio island. It is the only danger in Oaffin pass, and being well marked by thick kelp is easily avoided.
Medio island, in the western part of Caffin pass, is 150 feet high, ^ mile long NW. and SE., and thickly wooded. On the south side of this island, within a short distance of its SE. extreme, lie two rocks, 3 feet high, with 70 fathoms close- to. The island may be passed at a distance of 400 yards on either side.
Rice rocks, lying 1^ miles westward of Medio island, are always above water. When the swell is heavy they look alarming, seeming to extend a long distance into the channel and breaking heavily, but being in a line with islands and about ^ mile from the shore they are out of the direct track of vessels.
Redbill islands are a group of low islands and rocks obstructing the entrance to Delgado sound. The space between the islands is rocky, but the northern or channel side of them is free from off-lying dangers and may be approached to within i mile.
Webster rock, with 4 feet water over it, lies about f mile NW. of Eedbill islands. It lies in the fairway of Delgado sound, and being but slightly marked with kelp it is dif&cult to make out. Cohen rocks lie about midway between Webster rock and Eedbill islands.
Delgado sound is a very deep inlet. The Pan de Azucar, 880 feet high, is a remarkable sugar-loaf hill marking the entrance. The head of this sound, apparently the Puerto Delgado of Sarmiento, is unfit for vessels of the present day. At the extreme head is a log portage used by the Indians for hauling their canoes into Tom bay.
ZSast bay is a narrow inlet, at the head of which, under mount Yereker, is Stowaway cove, a very snug place, where the Alert remained quiet during a week of very bad weather. The approach is very narrow, and the anchorage in 12 fathoms, soft mud, is confined; but if a hawser is made fast to the shore, to prevent swinging, no incon- venience will be felt.
Ancon del Sudueste, on the west side of Delgado sound, is a deep, narrow fiord, ending in a succession of lakes. There is no anchorage fit for any but the smallest craft.
Pilot island, the next large island west of Goppinger peninsula, rises
142 PATAGONUN CHANNELS — I'EINIDAD CHANNEL.
to a height of 1608 feet, and is one of the most prominent objects in the channel. Cape Oaudelaria, 520 feet high, the northern extreme of the island, appears, when seen from either eastward or westward, as a conical hill, wooded at the base only.
Division islands. — ^Between Dinwoodie point (the NW. extreme of Coppinger peninsula) and Pilot island is an opening 2 miles wide, hav- ing in it a group of islands (the highest 382 feet high), apparently forming two sounds. These islands are named the Division islands, and terminate at Cook point in a bluff which is steep-to, and can be passed at a distance of 200 yards.
Fairway patch, lying midway between Cook point and Carson point, the east extreme of Pilot island, has 20 feet water on it and from 7 to 10 fathoms close around. From the shoalest part of this patch the west extreme of Morgan island is in line with the east extreme of Grant island, bearing S. 41^ W. (S. 20^ W. mag.). To pass between Cook point and Fairway patch (the route recommended), keep Gordon hill near the south end of Pilot island open west of Division islands S. 460 W. (S. 250 W. mag.) till Cook point bears S. 69o E. (East mag.).
Puerto del Monro, formed by an indentation on the eastern shore of Pilot island and Grant island, is about one mile in extent NE. and SW., 200 to 400 yards wide, having in it depths of 6 to 19 fathoms, bottom chiefly mud. The mountains on the western side of Puerto del Morro rise from the shore to a height of 1,008 feet. This port, the only safe anchorage upon the south shore for a large vessel between Tom bay and port Henry, although convenient in fine weather, is exposed to williwaws, which blow with extreme violence in bad weather. The most sheltered position is in 13 fathoms sand and rock, with the west extreme of Grant island bearing S. 18° E. (S. 39^ E. mag.) and the NW. point of that island N. 68^ E. (N. 37^ E. mag.). The northern channel between Grant island and Birch islands, though only 100 yards wide, is the best, and has not less than 5 fathoms: it wiU be seen open when bearing S. 77o W. (S. 56o W. mag.).
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Puerto del Morro at llh. 45m. ; springs rise 5 feet, and no stream is felt.
Cockle cove, 3 miles south of cape Gandelaria, is unfit for vessels drawing more than 15 feet water or more than 170 feet long, but for vessels of that size it affords a snug retreat, free to a great extent from the williwaws experienced at Puerto del Morro. The cove is, however, a long way out of the main channel, and, as it is necessary to moor, is of little use as a stopping place for a single night.
Directions. — From midway between Cook point and Fairway patch steer S. 47o W. (S. 26^ W. mag.) one mile, then S. 18© W. (S. 3o E. mag.) IJ miles. Avoid the reef that extends from Henby islets to the southward aud the eastward. The entry is between two wooded islets 40 feet high. Steer in between these islands, named North and South Gate, and pass mid-channel between Center island and the north shore.
ANTON BAY — ^POBT ROSABIO. 143
The channel has a depth of 5 fathoms, but is narrow, and requires careful navigation. Moor in 6 fathoms, soft mud, with Observatory islet shutout by Center islet N. 83o E. (N. 62© E. mag.); 36 fathoms on the starboard anchor to the NW. and 25 fathoms on the port anchor to the SE. will be found quite sufficient. At ^ mile south of the anchorage is a boat passage leading into Lamero sound. With the exception of these two ports there is no fit anchorage around the Division islands.
Supplies. — Excellent fish may be netted in the cove at the mouth of a small fresh- water stream a short distance west of the Gate islands.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Cockle cove at llh. 45m. j springs rise 5 feet, and no stream is felt.
Anton bay, on the north coast of Pilot island, is 1^ miles from cape Candelaria. Eastward. of the islands forming the bay the ground is foul, and has uncharted rocks lying among depths of from 11 to 14 fathoms.
Hernando islands, in the entrance of Lamero sound, are a group of islands and rocks. The largest, 540 feet high, has a remarkable square cleft in the summit and slopes down to a low, projecting point on the north shore, which is free from outlying dangers. There is no £^nchorage among these islands.
Lamero sound extends to the SE. for 7 miles, and then appears to end iii a chain of lakes, only to be entered by boats of light draft. Odl the west side near the NW. entrance are two conspicuous peaks — mounts Silvertop, 1,478, and Graham, 1,677 feet high. The former being of white, shining limestone, is very prominent. Mount Graham has a black summit.
. Port Rosario, 2 miles west of Lamero sound, affords but a very indifferent anchorage; iv. is about J mile in extent, with general depths of 19 to 25 fathoms. The port will be recognized by two islands, respectively 300 and 500 feet high, and wooded to their summits, which lie to the northwestward of the anchorage. Oft' the northern island is a small bare rock 10 feet high, against which the swell breaks furiously. The entrance, 300 yards wide, is between Baker islet and Peach rock, 4 feet high, black and jagged, with a patch of kelp in 12 feet water, 400 yards within.
Directions. — Close the port when Peach rock bears S. 4^ W. (S. 17° E. mag.) and steer in S. 10^ W. (S. 11° E. mag.) between the rock and Baker islands; when midway between them alter course S. 7^ E. (S. 280 E. mag.) for J mile to avoid the shoal patch of 2 fathoms, then N. 770 W. (S. 820 W. mag.) for the mound over Short point.
Anchorage. — It is the best to moor in 18 fathoms, sand and mud, with Short point bearing N. 61° W. (N. 82o W. mag.) and the east extreme of Baker islands iN". 44^ E. (N. 23° E. mag ). The space here is confined, but it is to be preferred to the rocky bottom farther out, and shelter is obtained from the furious squalls which sweep over the g^ap at Buxrage pass*
144 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS — TBINIDAD CHANNEL.
Cave bay, the bight south of Byatt island, has not been examined. From its situation it would be exposed to the full strength of the west- erly winds, and is therefore quite unfit for anchorage. It is connected with port Eosario by a narrow passage named Burrage pass.
Wolsey sound, 4 miles west of i)ort Bosario, is a deep fiord 3 miles long in a southerly direction and about ^ mile wide. East of Wolsey sound, distant 1^ miles, is the entrance to Granmer sound. These sounds are connected on the south side of Latimer island by a channel having in it numerous islets and rocks, among which indifferent anchorages can be obtained. There is no ship passage into Granmer from Wolsey sound, nor anchorage within the former if entered from the northward.
Directions. — Enter Wolsey sound midway between Fisher island and cape Gardinal. A rocky islet lies SE. one mile from the entrance, in the middle of the passage joining the two sounds; pass between this islet and the SW. point of Latimer island, off which a shelf extends 100 yards, and anchor close under the south shore of Latimer island in 9 to 17 fathoms, rocky bottom.
The coast from Wolsey sound trends in a westerly direction for 2 miles to the Seymour islands at the east side of entrance toportHenry« The \9rh0le of this distance is fronted by numerous rocks and breakers extending nearly J mile offshore.
Eastern peaks, the northern one of which is Three peaks, 2,310 feet high, rise abruptly from the coast and are wooded nearly to the sum- mit, which is of dark bare rock with three distant peaks, the northern peak being lower than the other two. These peaks are clearly dis- tinguishable from cape Oandelaria, also from seaward, and being con- spicuous they are an excellent mark to the navigator.
Port Henry is a valuable but somewhat confined anchorage, fit for vessels wishing to anchor for a night when the weather is fine; when stormy the williwaws are severe and a heavy swell sets into the bay.
The port extends in a southerly direction ^ mile and is 600 yards wide. About J mile within the entrance a point projects from the western shore half the distance across the port; southward of this point a channel leads north of Jane island into Aid basin.
The entrance is easily made out from both the eastward and the westward. From the former, Seymour islands, a group of low wooded islets and rocks, and Arragon island, a round grassy mound 120 feet high, are sufficient guides; from the latter, it maybe known by its being the first opening east of Bugged head. The white sand between Maple and Parr points is also conspicuous. It is the first sand beach on the south shore after entering the channel, having a low sandy cliff at the back, and a round, rocky, and wooded mount at its western end. When off the port the sharply serrated ridge of the Organ pipes, 2,329 feet high, is a good guide.
Anne l^reaker, off the entrance to Port Henry, is a most dangerous
SENTRY ISLET — AID BASIN. 145
rock, nnmarked by kelp, and in ordinary weather seldom breaks. A rook, with 5 fathoms water over it, lies 200 yards north of Anne breaker. Engged head, seen open westward of Arragon island, bear- ing S. 440 W. (S. 230 W. mag.), will keep a vessel to the northward of these dangers.
Sentry islet is a bare rock, 10 feet high, and is the northern islet upon the west side of entrance. Its eastern side is steep-to, but foul ground extends 400 yards to the northward and westward.
Iiovr island, 700 yards SB. of Sentry islet, is 30 feet high. A dan- gerous rock lies N. I80 B. (N. 3° W. mag.), about 200 yards from it, and another S. 52o B. (S. 73^ E. mag.), distant 50 yards.
Kelly rock, at 700 yards NE. of Low island, has 7 feet water on it, and 7 to 9 fathoms close around, and with a patch of coral, having 4 fathoms water on it, lying N. 2° W. (N. 23o W. inag.), 200 yards from the rock, form the oater dangers in Howard bay on the eastern side of the entrance. Foul ground extends over the whole space inshore of them. '
Anchorage. — The best berth is in 7 to 14 fathoms, sand, fair holding ground, with Low island bearing K 7° E. (N. 14^ W. mag.). Maple point N. 6O0 E. (N. 39o E. mag.), and Observatory rock N. 49° W. (N. 70O W. mag.).
Directions. — When off Port Henry, with the Organ pipes bearing S. I60 W. (S. 50 E. mag.), Harbor peak, a cone 1,640 feet high, con- nected at half its elevation with a loftier range, will be seen ; also the sand beach before mentioned. Keep Eugged head open west of Arra- gon island, bearing S. 44° W. (S. 23^ W. mag.), until Harbor peak is in line with the east extreme of the sand beach S. I80 E. (S. 39° E. mag.), which leads in mid-channel till Low island bears West (S. 69^ W. mag.), when a S. 32^ W. (S. 11^ W. mag.) course will lead into the anchorage.
Aid basin, the continuation of Port Henry to the southward, is a completely landlocked harbor, with anchorage in 15 to 24 fathoms, soft mud, but the entrance between Jane island and Bluff peninsula is only 60 yards wide 5 a ledge with 4 fathoms over it extends across, and on the northern side lie two sunken rocks nearly 200 yards apart, the eastern rock about 65 yards and the western rock within a few yards of the «hore. None but a small vessel could use this channel and nothing is to be gained by entering Aid basin, as it is impossible to judge of the weather outside, and from the formation of the land it is often raining heavily in the basin when it is clear and fine at port Henry.
There is a lake at the head of Aid basin and wood is in abundance.
Tides. — ^It is high water, fall and change, at port Henry at noon; springs rise 5 feet, and the stream is not felt.
Coast. — ^From Arragon island the coast trends 2J miles SW. to Eug- ged head, thence SSE. 4J miles to cape Hawksworth. The whole coast is fronted by low islets and rocks at some distance offshore. Landing 1943— No. 89 10
146 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS.
is impracticable on account of the heavy sarf, and the coast should not be approached within 5 or 6 miles. South of cape Hawksworth a deep sound extends to the eastward, on the south shore of which is April peak. Ragged head. — See page 172.
NORTH SHOBE.
Brassay pass, north of Topar island, connects Wide and Trinidad chaunels, and is wide and free from danger. Between cape Somerset, the southeastern cape of Wellington island, and Camel island, 3^ miles farther west, are three inlets, named, respectively, Hastings and Wil- shere fiords and Port Gharrua, the two former having no anchorage with them.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Brassey pass about noon. At spring tides the streams run through the pass 1^ knots per hour, flood to the eastward and ebb to the westward.
Port Chamia, in the western arm of the second inlet, 2f miles west of cape Somerset, affords a convenient and sheltered anchorage, in 7 fathoms, mud, f mile within the entrance. The arm extends north for 1^ miles, and has at its head a large waterfall 434 feet high, near which grow some large trees which might serve for spars. The west shore of the port is formed by lofty and precipitous mountains, over which the squalls pass without reaching the anchorage.
Directions. — At the entrance there are 26 fathoms water, deepening inside to 40 fathoms, again shoaling to 26 fathoms when Celery islet is abeam. Vessel should proceed slowly, as the next cast will be 7 fath- oms. Anchor with the east side of the cliff in line with Brown point bearing N. IQo E. (N. lio W. mag.), Celery islet S. 63° E. (S. 84o E. mag.), and the small beach on the west shore S. 71^ W. (S. 50° W. mag.) Two rocks, dry at low water, extend from the east shore 100 yards into the anchorage, with 6 fathoms close off' them.
Kathleen anchorage is 5^ miles from cape Somerset, and is easily recognized by Camel island, 1,380 feet high, which forms the southern shore. From abreast Emma point, the east extreme of Camel island, the inlet extends in a westerly direction with deep water, till Mabel islet on the south shore is abeam, when 29 fathoms will be obtained, shoaling to 15 fathoms 2 miles from the entrance, abreast an opening into Trinidad channel, through which Sentry islet will be seen. Ves- sels should not proceed above Skua islet. The best berth is with Skua islet bearing N. 74° W. (S. 85o W. mag.) and the east point of Seaward entry S. 32° W. (S. 11^ W. mag.), in 15 fathoms clay. The bottom is composed of rocks, with stiff', blue clay in the spaces between. The squalls are severe, but the water is always smooth. In the middle of the anchorage ground is a rock of small extent, on which 5 fathoms least water was obtained. From the anchorage, the state of the weather and sea in Trinidad channel can be conveniently noted.
On the west shore, 2^ miles from the anchorage, are a few acres of good, straight trees, with but little or no undergrowth, most of which
SEAWARD ENTRY — ^NEESHAM INLET. 147
would make a topmast, and could be got into the water with little trouble. On the east shore, IJ miles from the berth, good large wood, fit for steaming purposes, may be had.
^ Seaward entry is narrow and filled with kelp, having a rocky ledge with 24 fathoms of water extending across. The sharp turn at Sentry islet and the rush of tide through the pass forbid its use even by small craft.
Windward bay, on the SW. side of Camel island, is a poor place with a rocky bottom and a bad holding ground.
Coast. — From cape Somerset to Cordova point, at 4f miles west of it, the coast is broken by deep fiords between rugged and snow-capped ranges about 3,000 feet high. The most prominent is Double peak, or Notre Dame mountain, formed by two snow-capped peaks 3,433 and 3,610 feet high, connected some distance below their summits by a flat ridge. Camel island is very conspicuous from the westward, showing as a solitary square lump, with two mounds upon the summit. The southern face is a precipice about 800 feet high. Mount Bethune, 1,339 feet high, on the north shore of Kathleen anchorage, is very similar. That port forms a deep gap between them, which shows very distinctly from the westward. Cape Somerset and mount Ellen falling abruptly into the sea form prominent capes, and are both steep-to.
Surges island, at one mile west of Camel island, is about 25 feet high, thickly wooded, and has no ship channel north of it. A rock, always above water, lies i mile south of the island.
Petley islands, 80 feet high and wooded, lie nearly one mile south of Cordova point. Their south shores are steep-to, and may be passed at J mile distant. A cluster of bare, low rocks lies J mile N. by W. of the western island*^
Brazo del Norte, at 7J miles north of Petley islands, is about 3 miles wide at its junction with Trinidad channel; thence it trends in a northerly direction for 33 miles, where it terminates in several deep fiords of no use for navigation. These fiords have in some, instances an indifferent anchorage at the head.
The eastern shore is formed by lofty mountains with deep inlets between them. The western shore is lower, and has numerous indenta- tions and inlets. Cathedral mountain on the east shore, a conspicuous peak, 3,836 feet high, resembling at a distance the spire and roof of a church, is usually hidden by clouds, but when clear is visible from the gulf of Trinidad.
Malaspina islands are an extensive group of islands and rocks situated at the western entrance of Brazo del Norte. The south shores are free from danger, and may be closed to within a distance of J mile. North of Meidel islands is a boat passage, with a small bight at its eastern entrance, in which there is ancliorage for small vessels in 10 fathoms, bottom of sand and shell. This berth is sheltered from the northward and westward.
Neesham inlet, 2^ miles NW. of Malaspina islands, is very small, and the bottom is too rocky to be of use as an anchorage. The entrance to
148 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS.
the inlet is marked by Schweers island, lying south of it. The inlet extends 3^ miles northward, ending in a small creek. On the west shore are several passages into Picton channel, but all are unfitted for navigation.
Van ifflnndft, 3 miles west of Malaspina islands, form two distinct groups, occupying a space of 3 miles east and west. The east group is the higher of th§ two. Peak island, 90 feet high, having a pointed summit, is the most conspicuous of the whole group. * Coming from the eastward it is the first Van island seen, and is visible about 12 miles. Between the two groups are several rocky islets and sunken dangers. The western group is low and wooded, and free from danger on the north and south shores, but double rock, 10 feet high, and several other rocks over which the sea breaks heavily extend f mile westward from the western island. Mount Nares, the highest land over Alert harbor, bearing K. 4o W. (N. 25° W. mag,), leads west of these dangers in about 96 fathoms.
Picton channaL — See page 166.
Rameses islands, at the south point of Mornington island, are low, with several small peaks about 150 feet high.
Danger. — The channel between Eameses and Van islands has much foul ground; extreme caution is therefore necessary if this passage is used, and the navigator is recommended to keep the north shore of Van islands, not more than f mile distant.
Coast.^ — From Eameses islands the coast trends in a northwesterly direction 2 J miles to Alert harbor, with foul ground in the bight between. In clear weather the summit of Pilot island (on the south shore), in line with the east extreme of the West Van group, bearing S. 350 E. (S. 560 E. mag.), will lead westward of' all dangers.
Alert harbor is easy of access, with good anchorage and shelter. Being so close to the entrance of Trinidad channel, it is especially valuable to a vessel in distress, and it is at all times to be preferred to port Henry.
It is easily distinguished by Castle point, a steep white limestone cliff, 150 feet high, wooded on the summit, and Knocker and Button islets in the middle of the entrance, the latter showing as a round, wooded knob. Cone hill, 416 feet high, is wooded and has a clear grassy patch on its eastern slope; the latter is the best mark. Fairway rock, 30 feet high, is bare and rugged, and shows well at a distance of 5 miles. Innes point is a cliffy bluff*.
Directions. — Approaching this harbor,Castle point, bearing N. 10^ B. (N. 110 W. mag,), leads eastward of the Challenger breakers up to the entrance between Fairway rock and the rock awash west of Black rock. To avoid this danger close Fairway rock, taking care not to open Cone hill eastward of Knocker island until Fairway rock bears S. 66^ W. (S. 450 W. mag.), thence steer N. 12o W. (N. 33^ W. mag.) for Fielden point to avoid a sunken danger which lies S. 46^ E. (S. 67° E. mag.) of
ALEBT HARBOR — ^BOSSI BIGHT. 149
Batton island. When Innes i>oint is passed the harbor is clear. There is no passage between Castle point and Spider island, just south of it, nor between Fairway rock and Aldrich islands, near the West Entrance point.
Anchorage. — There is good anchorage in 12 to 23 fathoms, mud, between Knocker island and Currant point, nearly 2 miles north of it, the holding ground improving toward the north shore. A good berth for a large vessel is with Fairway rock, seen between Knocker and Button island, bearing S. 18° E. (S. 39^ E. mag.), and the islet north of Fielden point, K 89^ E. (K 680 E. mag.).
Mackerel anchorage, at the head of Alert harbor, is a secure retreat for small vessels, being perfectly landlocked, with good hold- ing ground. The chart will be the best "guide to this anchorage.
Large quantities of mackerel and mullet were netted at the entrance to the fresh- water stream at the head of the inner harbor by the Alerfa crew. They also were very successful with the seine on the sandy beach SW. of May islands.
Directions. — When off Innes point the entrance to the channel leading to the inner anchorage bears N. 29° W. (N. 50° W. mag.), dis- tant 2 miles, and Salient point, on the west shore of the entrance, will be distinguished. Mid rock, 12 feet high, near the middle of the nar- rows, between the outer harbor and Mackerel anchorage, with foul ground extending the whole distance to the east shore, will be seen when off Salient point. Pass 70 yards west of Mid rock, 150 yards off Caution point and 100 yards off Turn point, thence northward to the anchorage in 15 fathoms, mud.
Tides. — It is high water, fiill and change, in Alert harbor at 12h. 15m.; springs rise 7 feet 5 no stream is felt.
Cape Gamboa. — The coast from Alert harbor to cape Gamboa, 4 miles westward, is much broken, and rocks under water extend in some places for one mile off shore. Step hill, 150 feet high, is shaped like a quoin ; the S W. side, being steep and of a light gray color, shows well to seaward. A long, sandy beach lies just west of this hill, and is the only prominent one in the neighborhood.
Seal rocks, 5 feet high and about 6 miles N. 84^ W. (N. 75o W. mag.) of Van islands, are a dangerous cluster of rocks J mile in extent. Three heads show above water and always break; in ordinary weather the breakers can be seen from the deck at a distance of 8 miles. There are two sunken dangers, on which the sea usually breaks, lying to the eastward of the Seal rocks, the eastern one being a mile distant from them. Vessels can pass either side of the Seal rocks, but the southern passage is recommended.
Bossi bight, between cape Gamboa and Primero point, 13 miles farther west, is apparently shallow and full of rocks and small, bare islets through which no passage could be discovered. In southwesterly gales the breakers extend the whole distance across from cape Gamboa
150 PATAQOKIAN CHANNELS.
to Primero point. In the 'KE. part of the bight is an inlet, apparently leading toward Payne bay in Picton channel. On the shores of the bight are several peculiar hills, like huge towers, thickly wooded.
Corso peninsula forms the west shore of Bossi bight and the north entrance point into Trinidad channel. It is connected with Momingtou island by a low isthmus intersected with lagoons, and with no apparent passage even for a boat into Spartan bight.
Mount CorsG, about 5 miles north of Primero point, has a smooth, rounded summit, 1,420 feet high, connected by a wooded range with several other hills, all conical in form. On tbe south side it slopes grad- ually down to a plain terminating in Primero x>oint, a long, low, shelving point, off which numerous islets and rocks extend 1^ miles aud breakers 2^ miles south. This vicinity is exceedingly dangerous, and should be studiously avoided. The west side of Corso peninsula is fronted by a long beach having numerous Islets off it, and outlying sunken rocks. The lead gives no warning of these dangers, which rise almost per- pendicular from a depth of 30 to 40 fathoms. They are unmarked by kelp, and, unless the swell be heavy, do not indicate their position by breakers. Mariners must, therefore, be very careful when approaching this dangerous portion of the coast.
Cape Fakenhaxn, the western extreme of Mornington island, 9^ miles north of Primero point, is a low, rocky point off which lies a cluster of rocky islets. • The summit of the cape, Spartan cone, is very conspicuous from seaward. Breakers were observed about 5 miles westward of cape Pakenham.
As this portion of the coast has not been closely examined, strangers should be on their guard when approaching the channel from the west- ward. Being, however, as correctly defined as the approaches to Magellan strait and Messier channel, mariners bound to the southward and arriving off the gulf of Trinidad in fine weather should not hesi- tate to take advantage of the favorable opportunity to enter the channel and continue their passage in smooth water.
PASSAGE THROUGH TRINIDAD CHANNEL.
From the eastward. — ^Vessels must steer over for the Madre islands, passing north of Inocentes island. In thick weather, though the hill- tops are obscured, the lower land can often be made out. The separa- tion of two cascades, resembling a hayfork, about J mile south of Eogers point, is a good mark to steer for. The slope of the high hill over Rogers point also shows well through the rain.
The channel, being wide and clear, can be navigated at night if required. Having passed eastward of Iris island J mile, steer K 1° W. (N. 220 W. mag.) for IJ miles for the entrance of Oaflan pass; steer thence N. 53° W. (N. 74° W. mag.). When 12§ miles are run the vessel is off' cape Candelaria, bearing S. 2° E. (S. 23o E. mag.), and distant IJ miles. From this position a distance of 13 miles on a course N. 80^
TRINIDAD CHANNEL. .151
W. (S. 790 W. mag.) will place the vessel between Seal rocks and port Henry; thence the course is N. 86° W. (S. 73^ W. mag.) to sea. Three Peaks, 2,310 feet high, 2 miles east of port Henry, kept northward of S. 690 E. (East mag.), will lead south of the dangers off Primero i)oint. It is advisable to make a good offing at once. As the west coasts of Momington and Oampana islands have sunken dangers a long way off- shore, the navigator must not be in a hurry to haul to the northward.
From the ■wrestwrard. — The land should not be closed nearer than the meridian of 76^ W. until latitude 49^ 58' S. is reached, when the channel may be approached on that parallel until either Horn or East- ern peaks are made out. The triple summit of Eastern peaks, of a black color, is the most prominent object when closing with the chan- nel. Mount Nares, 2,447 feet high, when seen from the westward of Corso peninsula, bearing S. 80^ E. (N. 79° E. mag.), appears as a flat- topped, conical mountain. From the same position cape Gamboa shows as a long ridge falling steeply into the sea, consequent on the lowland at the base of the mountains not being visible from that distance. If the weather is clear the range of snowy mountains on the east shore of Brazo del Norte will be seen, conspicuous among them Cathedral moun- tain. Three Peaks bearing S. 69^ E. (East mag.) will lead into the entrance of the channel in 40 fathoms, sand. When mount Gorso bears K 100 E. (N. 110 W. mag.), steer S. 82o E. (N. 77^ E. mag.) for 11 miles, passing between Seal rocks and Port Henry. The water will shoal to 24 fathoms, when Eugged head bears S. 249 E. (S. 45^ E. mag.) ; it then gradually deepens to 50 fathoms, when Seal rocks bear N. 7° W. (N. 28° W. mag.), after which the channel is deep and clear. From abreast Seal rocks steer a S. 77° E. (N. 82° E. mag.) course for 12 J miles, when cape Gandelaria will bear S. 2^ E. (S. 23^ E. mag.), distant li miles; thence steer S. 63^ E. (S. 74^ E. mag.) between Medio island and Brazo peninsula, passing eastward of Iris island at | mile distant; thence a course may be steered through Goncepcion channel.
Inocentes island appears from the east entrance of Trinidad channel as a flat- topped mound with low land on either side of it. Both shores of Goncepcion channel are mountainous, the most remarkable being Singular peak, on Ghatham island, a peculiar mass of rock on the summit of a mountain 3,060 feet high. Ghilders bluff is also readily recognized.
Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, in Trinidad channel about noon 5 springs rise about 6 feet. The flood stream runs to the eastward and the ebb to the westward. The turn of the stream depends on the recent winds. Southwesterly winds hold the flood up in both Trinidad and Goncepcion channels. The stream runs about J knot per hour, except in Gaffin and Brassey passes, where it runs 1 J knots at spring tides. Off cape Somerset there are tide ripples.
Supplies. — ^Like all other parts of the Patagonian channels, wood' and water are everywhere abundant. Timber for spars can be obtained
152. PATAOONIAN CHANNELS.
in Fort Gharrua and Notre Dame fiord. Fish were netted in large quantities at most of the ports described. The method adopted with success in the Alert was placing a trammel net across the entrance of the small coves into which ran a fresh-water stream at high water, at which time the fish are close to the beach feeding; then driving the fish into the net. During the months of October and November great num- bers of brent geese frequent the grassy shores of the x>orts, and are fair eating. Wild celery can be obtained in most parts, and forms an agree- able addition to the table when cooked like spinach. It was found round most of the deserted wigwams in great profusion.
The natives are to be met with on the outer coasts in great numbers during the sealing season in December and January. Although they are harmless and inofiensive while in the vicinity of a vessel or armed boats, they are not to be trusted.
WIDE CHANNEL. (H. O. Chart No. 447.)
Wide channel (Brazo Ancho of Sarmiento) commences at Brazo Ancho point, the NE. extreme of the Madre islands, where Trinidad and Concepcion channels meet Wide channel, and extends 38 miles to the northward, from Topar to Saumarez island, with a breadth varying from 1| to 3J miles.
The navigation of Wide channel is often impeded by drift ice from Eyre sound; numerous large pieces of ice have been seen in this chan- nel in June.
G>age inlet, about 12 miles NNE. of cape Somerset, extends 2 miles NW.; it is narrow and deep, with shores rising to precipitous moun- tains. At one mile within the entrance is Medio islet, south of which the i)assage is full of sunken rocks. At 400 yards above the islet the inlet is only 65 yards wide, and there the tide runs strongly; when through the narrows, there is a small bay on the north shore, having confined anchorage and not room to swing. There is a similar anchor- age at the head of the inlet. Taking into consideration the intricate navigation. Gage inlet should be avoided.
Refuge cove, about If miles northward of Gage inlet, is adapted for small vessels only, having anchorage in the center of the cove in 6 to 7 fathoms.
Sandy cove, at the south entrance point of Antrim inlet, 6J miles north of Refuge cove, is not recommended, the bottom being rocky and irregular, and the anchorage too close to the shore. In the northern part of the cove is a rock marked by kelp, and another in the south- ern part that uncovers at low water.
There is anchorage in 14 fathoms in the center of the cove, but the anchor is liable to drag into deep water.
Antrim inlet extends nearly 4 miles FW. and terminates in two large basins, connected by boat passages, in which are whirlpools.
WIDE CHANNEL. 153
Elena cove is a sheltered anchorage at the head of Antrim inlet, the channel being deep.
A rocky ledge extends from the east shore of the cove to the middle of it, and vessels should not pass south of the ledge, but anchor between the enia*ance xK>ints of the cove in 14 fathoms.
Ringdove inlet, on the east side of Wide channel, abreast Antrim inlet, is 1 J miles wide between the entrance points ; the outer part of the inlet extends KE. 4^ miles to Herminia island^ on either side of this island there is a deep channel, 200 yards wide, leading to the inner part, which extends about 6 miles farther inland.
Good anchorage will be obtained in Eichmond or Chacabuco coves, formed by Jones islands and the eastern side of the x)eninsula termi- nating in Hyacinth point, the south entrance point to the inlet.
Wood and ixrater. — Water can be obtained on the east side of Ring- dove inlet from the cascades of mount O^Higgins, at the foot of which landing may be effected. Wood can be obtained from Rosa island.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Chacabuco cove at 40m.; springs rise 5 J feet.
Saumarez island. — Wide channel, divided by Saumarez island, com- municates with Eyre sound to the NE. There is a passage on either side of Saumarez island, but Grappler reach, the eastern, is the wider of the two, passing close to Bold head, an immense dark mass of rock rising abruptly from the sea to the height of 1,000 feet ; abreast of this head is the entrance to Eyre sound, which is 35 miles long.
Chasm reach, the passage west of Saumarez island, though narrow is perfectly clear and deep. The southern entrance may be known by a remarkable patch on the face of the rock on the western side, which can be seen as soon as Button island is passed. The distance by this passage is 2 miles shorter than by the other way, and in the autumn, when the ice comes down, its navigation is safer than the eastern pas- sage; even going to Port Grappler it would be almost as short, but except for avoiding ice it has no advantage. The current in this reach is not very strong.
Veto inlet appears to have a good entrance and probably fair anchorage.
Shoals. — n. M. S. Amethyst struck on a shoal that was found to extend from 200 to 800 yards from the north point of Saumarez island. The shoal has two rocky heads with 12 feet, least water. The kelp in this neighborhood was visible only a short distance.
There is a depth of 14 fathoms between the eastern rocky head and Saumarez island.
A small kelp patch was observed from H. M. S. Gannet in a cove in Angle island, just within the new entrance to Chasm reach, about 60 yards from the shore.
Tides. — The flood tide in the vicinity was observed to set NE. and the ebb south, toward the shoals.
154 PATAGONIAN CHANNELS.
Port Micaela, on the NE. shore of Saamarez island, may be recog- nized by the white sand beach on the opposite shore bearing N. 88^ E. (K 670 E. mag.) of it.
There is a sunken rock in the south part of the port, and the bottom is irregular. There is anchorage in the center in 17 to 20 fathoms, but Port Grappler is far preferable.
Port G>rappler is an excellent, well-sheltered harbor in the Exmouth promontory, opposite the KE. side of Saumarez island. Clou^ island, in its entrance, shows so distinctly that it is impossible to mistake the position of this harbor. There is a passage on* either side of the island, but the eastern one is the wider and better. The best anchorage for a large vessel is 600 yards inside Glou6 island in 8 to 9 fathoms, mud; but a small vessel may pass Diamond island and anchor in 4 to 5 fathoms off Allard point. The holding ground all over the harbor is excellent, but above Diamond island the shoal water extends farther from the shore and the anchorage ground becomes confined.
Indian reach. — The southern part of Messier channel, for 25 miles between Saumarez island and English narrows, is named Indian reach, in which are several islets and straggling rocks, with deep water between.
Caution. — The buoys and beacons in Indian reach can not be depended on to be in position.
Port Horacio, on the west shore of Indian reach, 6 miles north of Saumarez island, has not been surveyed, and although affording anchor- age for small vessels, several sunken dangers are known to exist.
Dolores reef, the greater part of which covers at high water, lies nearly 350 yards from the SE. point of Elliott peninsula or the SW. entrance point to Grau cove. It is about 65 yards in extent and joined to the peninsula by a ledge of rocks, having from 6 to 12 feet water over it and 15 to 19 fathoms close around.
G>rau cove, on the SE. side of Elliott peninsula, is a sheltered anchorage nearly 600 yards wide at its entrance, and about J mile deep. The shores of the cove are free from outlying dangers, and anchorage may be taken up in the center in 16 fathoms, rocky bottom.
Fantome island. — H. M, S. Fantome found anchorage for a night under Fantome island, J mile SSE. from Crossover island on the west side of Indian reach, in 28 fathoms sand, shell, and rock, with the extremes of Fantome island bearing K. 18^ W. (N. 39° W. mag.) and N. 160 E. (N. 50 W. mag.). From an examination it was found that anchorage may be obtained nearer Fantome island.
Covadonga group consists of several small islands, situated nearly in mid-channel between Crossover island and Port Eiofrio. They are all wooded with the exception of South rocks, which lie 1,800 yards north from Crossover islands, are 8 feet above high water, and marked by a perch, consisting of a staff and barrel, painted in red and white bands; it is not easily made out.
ABTAO ROCK — LACKAWANA COVE. 155
Abtao rock lies 250 yards south of South rocks. It has 12 feet of water over it. A barrel buoy, painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Abtao on it in white letters upon a black ground, is moored in 14f fathoms water, with Perch islet bearing IN". 2o E. (N. 19o W. mag.), distant 400 yards.
Sister islands are two small islands 25 feet high, eastward of the Covadonga group, having a safe passage between them and the shore of Exmouth promontory.
Penguin rock, 600 yards N. 45° B. (N. 24° E. mag.) of Toro island, uncovers about 2 feet at low water.
Vaudreuil rock, 1,500 yards N. 4^ E. (N. 17^ W. mag.) of Toro island, is very dangerous. It is but slightly marked by kelp and difficult to distinguish at all times. It has not been seen to uncover at low- water springs. The lead is no guide, there being a great depth of water within a distance of 400 yards of it.
A perch with a white ball and black vane stands on the rock; it is difficult to distingiiish.
Port Riofrio, 4 miles north of Crossover island, is a useful anchor- age for a vessel unable to reach Eden harbor before dark. Covadonga rock lies in mid-channel of the entrance, but lies just covered at high water.
Directions. — Steer between Alvaro point and Covadonga rock with the cascade bearing N, 77° W. (S. 82^ W. mag.). After passing the rock, haul to the northward and anchor 300 yards north of Harbor point in 21 fathoms, mud.
There is no passage for vessels through Manuel passage between Marta island and the west shore.
Supplies. — Fish are plentiful in the bight south of Yitalia islands; also south of Cascade point.
Oorgon reef, on the western side of the reach, 800 yards off shore and If miles north of Alvaro point, covers at high water. Vessels should keep the east shore aboard when passing this danger.
A triangular beacon, surmounted by a tripod and cage, all painted white, stands on Gorgon reef.
G>uia islands are low islets close off Clarke point. A beacon is erected upon the northernmost islet, which will be useful as a mark to clear Gorgon reef.
Directions. — The eastern channel between Sister islands and Ex- mouth promontory is to be preferred, especially in thick weather, when it is difficult to judge the distance from South rocks.
If using the West channel, care must be exercised in rounding South rocks, as the ebb stream sets directly on to them and over the 12-foot patch lying to the southward of them.
Lacka'wana cove, just south of Eden harbor, is perfectly sheltered, with an entrance only 50 yards across. There is a rock with 2 fathoms of water over it in the middle.
156 PATAQONIAN CHANNELS.
Eden harbor is formed by a groap of tliickly wooded islands on the western shore of Indian reach, at 3^ miles north of Port Biofrio and affords good anchorage in 8 to 12 fathoms. Vessels from the northward m^j enter throngh East channel between Morton and Dalce islands, but the better entrance is throngh South channel, midway between Charles island and Hammond reef. When in the entrance, Jenkins hill, 445 feet high, kept in line with the west extreme of Eden island bearing N. 16<^ W. (N. 37° W. mag.), leads clear of both Hammond reef and the rocks extending from Charles island. The best anchorage is between Eden island and a small beach NW. of it in 12 to 14 fathoms, taking care not to get too close to Bare rocks, marked by a beacon, off Eden island. This anchorage is available for large vessels awaiting slack water in English narrows. Farther in is Malacca cove, perfectly sheltered, but very confined, with anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud.
Hammond Reef buoy, painted red, is moored eastward of Ham- mond reef, in a depth of IG fathoms, with Greville point bearing N. 81<^ E. (N. 60O E. mag.), distant 500 yards.
Charles Inland beacon stands on the summit (153 feet high) of the island. It is 33 ieet high, pyramidal in shape, with a ball on top, the whole painted white.
Hermia rock. — The German steamer Hermia struck on a rock with 12 feet of water over it, off William xK)int. It is said to lie 335 yards south of the point. Vessels using this channel should exercise caution, as the rock is surrounded by deep water.
Wreck. — ^The wreck of a steamer, apparently recent, with bow and masts out of water and topmasts standing, was noted south of William point, entrance to Eden harbor, apparently on the rock whereon the German steamer Hermia struck (1894).
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Eden harbor at 15m.; springs rise 6 feet.
Level bay, opposite Eden harbor, can scarcely be called an anchor- age, and certainly does not deserve the name, as the bottom is anything but leveL With Eden harbor so near it is quite useless.
Duke of Edinburgh sound, east of the southern entrance to English narrows, was explored by the officers of the Chilean vessel of war Magallanesj and is said to be free from dangers. No bottom with 35 fathoms could be found in the middle of the sound, or any anchorage ground round the shores. The hills in the vicinity of the sound rise to about 700 and 1,000 feet, except at the northern extremity, where the land is low.
ENGLISH NARROWS.
Directions. — Excepf when passing Mid Channel island these narrows present no difficulty, and even in the narrowest part, 200 yards in width, there is no danger unless a vessel goes through with wind and tide, which should never be attempted if the wind is strong.
ENGLISH NARROWS. 157
The tides run 6 knots at springs in this part, and as the ohannel is winding, it is, daring springs, always advisable to await slack water.
After passing Memphis shoal and Adam island in the southern entrance, the eastern shore should be kept aboard. Give Kitt island a wide berth, as there is a small rock lying about 200 yards off it, and then keep about 300 yards off Chinnock island to avoid Lookout shoal. After passing Chinnock island keep over toward the eastern shore to clear the rocky patch (Mindful shoal) off Croft island. When clear of this danger the vessel should cross gradually to the western shore and follow it around while passing Mid Channel island. Should the tidal current be setting to the southward care must be taken not to let it cant the vessel's head inshore. If the current is running to the north- ward the helm must be ported quickly after passing the island so as not to be set on Caution shoal. If the eastern channel is taken the island shore must be kept close aboard, as Danger shoal extends for some distance from Cedar point.
After Clio islet and Cedar point are passed the channel is perfectly clear the whole way to the gulf of Penas, but the tidal currents have considerable strength until Cavour and Lamarmora islands are passed.
From the northward. — In making the narrows from the northward the same care must be taken to avoid the shoal water off Olio islet and Cedar point, and, as stated before, the passage should not be attempted with the wind and tide, if the former is very strong. At the back of Moat island there is a remarkable grayish patch resembling a castle, which, if yteered for after passing Direction islands, will lead to the northern entrance.
Regulation for vessels passing through. — As in passing through English narrows it is advisable to wait for slack tide, and as, conse- quently, vessels bound in opposite directions (being unable to see each other) might meet in the critical part of the channel, it has been arranged between certain companies, whose vessels constantly use the Inner Patagonian route, that when nearing the English narrows ships should either fire a gun or sound their steam whistles; and that should ves- sels bound north meet vessels bound in the opposite direction, the ships bound north shall wait until the southward-bound vessels have cleared the Narrows.
As this appears to be a prudent course to adopt in view of the difficult navigation and limited time of slack water, all mariners should regulate their movements in accordance with it.
A note to the above effect will be placed on the Hydrographic Office charts. -
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in English narrows at 15m.; springs rise 6 feet.
The streams of the flood and ebb are considered to run for about three- quarters of an hour after high and low water by the shore, but they have much greater force than elsewhere in the channels. At springs
158 PATAQONUN CHANNELS.
the Btream has a velocity of 6 knots an hoar past Mid Channel island. At the northern entrance the flood stream sets across the channel from the "KW, point of Gavour island. Care shoald be taken to avoid being swept on the shore of Lonely island.
Memphis shoal, on the eastern side at the south entrance to English narrows, is an isolated shoal, about 273 yards in length by 164 yards in width, with a depth over it varying from 13 to oO feet, gradually deepening all around. The shoal is surrounded by kelp, which is only plainly seen at change of tide. It lies 750 yards N. 55^ E. (S. 34° E. mag.) of Eve point (Bishoi)p island).
Port Simpson. — On the western shore of English narrows, and about 8 miles NNW. of Eden harbor, is IJeauchamp inlet, IJ miles long west and east, and ^ mile wide at its entrance; at i mile within the entrance there is a depth of 40 fathoms near the center, and 0 to 11 fathoms, mud bottom, near the entrance of Port Simpson, which lies between Henry and Bobert points at the head of Beauchamp inlet, and is 150 yards wide, with 6 to 10 fathoms water; the navigable channel is, however, contracted to about 100 yards by the rocky shoal extending from Robert point on the north side.
Port Simpson affords secure anchorage in 8 to 24 fathoms, mud bottom Just inside the entrance, and about midway between Stoddart jwint on the south and a remarkable white patch on the face of a cliff on the north shore, there is a depth of 24 fathoms, decreasing to 9 and 7 fathoms abreast of Hellen point, thence 9 to 4 fathoms to the head of the port, where there is a stream from which good water can be obtained. Over the bar of this stream there is a depth of about 7 feet at high water.
Wood suitable for steaming purposes can be had, that of the best quality just eastward of Hellen point. ^
Florida shoal is in the western part of Beauchamp inlet. The east- em extreme of this shoal has a depth of 12 feet over it and lies 750 yards N. 44o E. (N. 23° E. mag.) of Eobert point. About 100 yards northward and eastward of this position there are 22 fathoms or more of water, but immediately to the westward it shoals suddenly to 3 fathoms, and then 2 fathoms, forming an extensive detached bank extending to the shore northward and westward. The spot on which the Gulf of Florida touched is on the edge and just northward of the eastern extremity of this bank.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Port Simpson at 15m.; springs rise about 6 feet.
Lucas covOi on the eastern shore opposite Beauchamp inlet, is a good anchorage for any but very large vessels. If night comes on, or too strotfg a tide current and wind forbid the passage of the Narrows, it will save the return to Eden harbor. The entrance is south of Chin- nock island, which, although it is very much narrowed by the kelp which extends off the south point of the island, has 4 fathoms in the channel, and no danger if the southern or mainland shore is kept aboard.
ENGLISH NABROWIS. 159
The anchorage is in the center in 10 to 11 fathoms water, bottom of mud. There is anchorage outside the cove in about' 20 fatlioms water.
Lookout Shoal buoy, cylindrical in shape, painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Lookout in white letters on a black ground, lies in 26 feet water on Lookout shoal.
Mindful Shoal buoy, cylindrical in shape, painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Mindful in white letters on a black ground, has been moored in 24 feet water on Mindful shoal.
Zealous Shoal buoy, conical in shape, painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Zealous in white letters on a black ground, and surmounted by staif and globe painted white, lies in 7 fath- oms water, with the center of Zealous islet bearing K. 61° E. (N. 40^ E. mag.), distant 200 yards.
Caution. — On the 22d of December, 1872, at the period of neap tides, H. M. S. Zealousy on her passage to the southward tlirough the English narrows, at about an hour before low water by the shore, was swept by the ebb tide from the southward onto a sunken rock, with 17 feet, lying about 100 yards to the southward of Zealous islet, off the eastern shore. The islet lies nearly J mile south of Mid Channel island.
Information has been received that the wreck of the steamer Roma (the masts of which do not show even at low water), lying northward of Zealous islet, presents a danger to shipping passing through English narrows. The exact position of the wreck is not known.
MajHners are therefore recommended, wlien proceeding through this part of the English narrows, to keep on the western shore, and in steamers to regulate their speed, in order to have the vessel fully under command, bearing in mind that the ebb tide sets strongly on to Zealous islet from tte opposite side of the channel.
Large vessels waiting the tide in English narrows should anchor in Eden harbor if from the southward or in Gray harbor if from the northward.
Mid Channel island. — Close to the south end of Mid-Channel island are detached rocks (Hall rocks) awash, and beyond these kelp extends for some distance.
The channel on either side of the island may be used, but a large vessel should take the western, which is the wider and deeper of the two and the least affected by the tide.
Beacons. — Two beacons have been erected on Mid Channel island, one on the north point, replacing the old beacon, and the other on the south point of the island.
The North beacon, about 11 feet high, consists of an iron tripod, the north face covered with iron plates, and the two corresponding legs, or supports, being prolonged, forming a V above the vertex.
The South beacon, about 14 feet high, is similar to the North beacon, its south face being covered, but the prolonged legs are bent, forming a circle above the vertex.
Both beacons are painted white.
160 PATAGONIAN CHAIWELS.
Caution shoal, having 13 feet over it and from 6 to 8 fathoms close aroand, lies 300 yards S. 64^ E. (B. 85^ E. mag.) from Clio island. As this depth could not be found, although close examination of the locality has been made, its existence in that position may be considered doabtfuL
ShoaL — A shoal, with a depth of 15 feet, was found about 150 yards SE. of the south extreme of Patagonia island, where 4| fathoms has heretofore been shown. The kelp on this shoal does not always show, owing to the strength of the tides.
Buoy. — A buoy, conical in shape, painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Caution in white letters on a black ground and surmounted by a staff and globe painte<l white, lies in 11 fathoms water, with the north extreme of Olio islet N. 69^ W. (West mag.), distant about 275 yards.
Cavour island. — The beacon on the summit of Cavour island is painted in red and white bands; the framework globe above it is white. This beacon is intended for a refuge beacon. It may be seen in clear weather from the northward for a distance of about 20 miles.
Caution. — The buoys in the Patagonian channels are frequently out of place or missing, and reliance should not be placed upon them, nor upon the beacons.
•
Hoskyn cove, on the west side of the northern entrance of English narrows, would answer tlie same purpose to the southward bound ves- sel as Lucas cove does to those northward bound. It is formed by Lamarmora island, joined to the mainland at low water; a remarkable round islet (Loney islet) showing as the extreme on the west side afber passing the narrows, marks its entrance unmistakably. The best anchorage is in the middle of the cove in 13 fathoms, mud, or when Loney islet is shut in by John point, where, though a considerable tide is felt when near the time of high water, a vessel may lie in safety. Care must be taken when entering or leaving, as the tide sweeps rap- idly past Loney islet, and catches the vessel's bow or stem, while her other end is in the dead water occasioned by the island.
At 300 yards East (N. 69o E. mag.) from Elizabeth point, the south entrance point of Hoskyn cove, is a rocky patch, on which the least water found was 9 fathoms, with kelp extending about 100 yards beyond it. John point on the northern shore is steep-to. The only drawback to Hoskyn cove is the very strong tide which sweeps past its entrance, but for a moderate sized vessel it is far preferable to Halt bay. Just outside the cove the channel is only 300 yards wide, but both shores are steep-to, and after passing this narrow part Messier channel opens out.
MESSIER CHANNEL. (H. O. Charts Nob. 447 and 447a. )
Remarks. — From the north entrance of English narrows to the out- let of Messier channel at Taru bay in the gulf of Peiias, a distance of 75 miles, the land on both sides of this channel is mountainous, with
f
MESSIER CHANNEL. 161
lofty snow-capped peaks. It is quite open, has several bold headlands, indentations, and islands, but free from all impediments.
The navigation is perfectly easy in moderately fine weather; the real difficulty of it consists in the almost perpetual rain, thick weather, and strong gales, with very heavy williwaws, which come down the steep mountain sides with a force which must be felt to be believed.
Entrance rock is low and flat, on the north side of the entrance to Magenta bay, and 1,400 yards ESE. of Thomas island. From the prom- inent position of the rock it is a good mark for pointing out the direction of the north entrance to the English narrows.
Thomas island is on the west side of the south entrance to Messier ch^.nnel; the island, when seen from the north, may be known by a well-defined peak near the center, terminating in a low point near the eastern extremity.
Moat island, about 600 yards NW. of Thomas island, has three peaks lying in a north and south direction j the center one is the highest (380 feet).
Halt bay, on the eastern shore, at the commencement of the Messier channel, has been much used by ships passing through; but the water is very deep and the space confined, so that Gray harbor and Hoskyn cove should entirely supersede it.
G-ray harbor affords excellent anchorage at the head of Liberta bay, 2 miles SB. of Halt bay, where a vessel may lie in security in 16 to 17 fathoms, with a bottom of stiff mud. Large vessels must moor.
Coming from the southward the Armingen islands may be rounded close-to and the KE. part of Liberta bay steered for until the entrance to the harbor opens. Erom the northward the eastern shore should be followed past Halt bay into the harbor. Julia island and Green islet, on the south side of Liberta bay, must not be approached too closely, as there are rocks lying about 200 yards off each of them. At the head of Gray harbor is a large lagoon which may be entered by a boat at high water.
Beacon. — On a rock about 150 yards WKW. of Green islet stands a red beacon surmounted by a globe.
Buoy. — Talisman rock, nearly J mile within the entrance of the harbor, is marked by a buoy, cylindrical in shape, and painted red and white in vertical stripes, with the name Talisman on it in white letters upon a black ground. This buoy is moored in a depth of 3^ fathoms, with the southeastern point at the head of the harbor bearing S. 38^ E. (S. 590 E. mag.), distant 350 yards.
SOUTH REACH.
Seymour inlet, on the western shore, nearly 3 miles I^W. of Moat island, is about J mile wide at the entrance, with two islets just inside the south point.
Daly island, nearly J mile north of Seymour inlet, is 175 feet high, 1943— No. 89 11
162 PATAGONIAK CHANNELS.
and when seen from the north its ontline appears to be rounded near the center, and the east and west extremities bluff points.
Ommanney point, on the eastern shore, 2^ miles NE. of Daly island, is low, rocky, and wooded.
BCarcQS island is a small flat-topped island 05 feet high, with some stanted1t>ushes on it, 4 miles north of Daly island.
Cotopazi rock, near the middle of the Beach, at 3^ miles north of Marcus island, has 19 feet on it at high water, is 100 yards long and 50 yards broad; kelp above water is perceptible only when the water is smooth. Midge island, its breadth open eastward of Direction island, leads clear of Gotopaxi rock.
Buoy. — ^A buoy, cylindrical in shape, painted red and white in ver- tical stripes, with the name Gotopaxi in white letters on a black ground, lies in 5^ fathoms water with the SW. point of Williams island bearing 8. 79° E. (N. 80° E. mag.), distant about 1| miles. Vessels should pass between the buoy (if in position) and Williams island.
Direction islet, 118 feet high, small and thickly wooded, lies nearly in mid-channel 15 miles north of English narrows. A ledge, with from 13 to 23 feet over it, extends 400 yards in a northerly direction from this islet.
Latorre (Adalbert) channel is a continuation of what was formerly known as Search inlet. It trends westwardly 18 miles, and joins Fallos channel. At 12 miles from its eastern entrance the channel is divided by Eiquelme (Ejiorr) island, the southern arm being named Albatross (Erhardt) channel, which is not recommended, having in its narrower part rocks and islets.
Estero Ultimo empties into Latorre channel and can be navigated by any sized vessel, but is otherwise unimportant.
Schroeder ground, 2^ miles south of Search inlet, at the entrance of Estero ultimo, affords anchorage in about 10 fathoms water.
Port Albatross (Kaiser harbor), on the east side of Albatross (Erhardt) channel, at 2 miles SW. of the east extreme of Biquelme island, has anchorage at its head in about 10 fathoms, but is too con- fined for large vessels.
Heinrichs fiord, on the north side of Latorre channel, just within the western entrance, affords anchorage in 16 fathoms mud, about If miles within the entrance; anchorage may also be obtained in about 20 fathoms about f mile within.
Thornton peninsula has a bold, rocky appearance, with a table- topped mountain in the center, wooded to the summit, upon which is a straggling line of trees. A rock that dries 2 feet lies about 400 yards from its NW. point.
VThite Kelp cove, 10 miles north of Direction islet, on the north side of and about one mile within Lion bay, is very confined, and not nearly so good as Connor cove, which is close by. No other anchorage could be found in Lion bay.
CONNOR COVE — ^ISLAND HARBOR. 163
Connor cove, on the same shore, 2 miles north of Lion bay, is a con- venient anchorage, apparently without danger. The anchorage is in the middle in 13 fathoms, stiff mud. A large vessel would have to moor to have swinging room.
Boyle rock, which lies rather more than a mile off Connor cove, is awash at low water, and is well marked by kelp.
Middle island has two peaks, the northern about 2,200 feet high and the southern about 2,100, very conspicuous from the northward, being visible as soon as a vessel enters Messier channel. Its shores are steep-to, and it can be passed on either side.
V7aterfall bay, 11 miles north of Middle island, lies at the entrance of Yandermeulen inlet on the east side of the channel. It affords very indifferent anchorage, with scarcely any shelter. Time should be so arranged that a vessel might reach Island harbor or Connor cove, which are preferable anchorages.
Cockshead, the west entrance point of Waterfall bay, appears as a steep cliff with a smooth top when seen from the southward.
Island harbor, on the eastern shore, 12 miles northward of Cocks- head, is a small but landlocked anchorage, and convenient for vessels entering or leaving Messier channel. There is good holding ground, plenty of wood and water close at hand, and at times abundance of fish. Its position is marked by Lizard island, a short mile to the southward, and near the entrance are two small islands named Brown and Phipps islands. A bank or bar of rocky ground stretches across from Phipps island to the main on each side, having 8 fathoms on it in mid-channel, and shoaling gradually to 3 or 4 fathoms on eitUer side close to the rocks.
The island may be passed on either side, but the north passage is the straighter. There is a patch with 2J fathoms on it about 100 yards south of Phipps island, and a group of rocky islands surrounded by kelp off the south point of the main.
The anchorage is in 19 fathoms, rather more than 100 yards north of Phipps island. A small vessel may go into the inner basin and anchor in 10 fathoms close to the large waterfall at the head of the bight, but her stern must be secured to the trees, as there is not room to swing. There is an anchorage outside of the harbor in 15 fathoms of water, with Fleuriais point bearing N. 7^ W. (N. 28^ W. mag.) and the south point of Phipps island N. 60o E. {^. 39o E. mag.).
The commanding officer of the U. S. S. Finta (in 1884) reports that Island harbor is a bad anchorage in bad weather and is difficult to get out of owing to a torrent, and the wind always causing the vessel to ride with head up the harbor; there is scant room to turn without a spring. The land is low to the northward and westward and very high in the opposite direction; therefore there is little protection from prevailing gales. They rode out two gales there, force 5 to 12, dragged two anchors, and had to steam up to them most of one day and all of
164 PATAOONIAN CHANNELS.
one night. They lighted the harbor with ^< mnning lights.'' The water was smooth enough, but some of the sqnalls were terrific.
Cortes Ojea (Albatross) channel joins Tore and Fallos channels. It runs for about 12 miles in a soathwesterly direction, and is through- out wide and deep, its navigation offering no difficulty whatever.
Toro channel connects Hornby sound with Cortes Ojea channel. It is deep throughout, and without anchorage. In its northern part the width is between one and 2 miles and diminishes gradually toward the Deutsche narrows at its southern end. Toro and Cortes Ojea channels separate the two large islands named Prat and Serrano, resi)ectively.
Deutsche (German) narrows, at 13 miles south of the entrance to Hornby sound, are only 200 yards wide from shore to shore, through which the streams were found to run 2 knots, and to turn irregularly. The channel eastward of Guia (Pommer) island, in the south entrance of the ]S'arrows, was observed to be full of kelp, so that vessels must keep the western shore aboard after passing through to the southward.
Dreising bay, about 3 miles westward of Deutsche narrows, affords anchorage in 16 to 18 fathoms water, about one m41e within the entrance.
In Schlucht pass, at 2 miles west of the northern entrance to Alba- tross channel, anchorage was obtained in 14 fathoms, at 300 yards east of Bachem point.
Estero Enganoso (Otto fiord) empties into Hornby sound. It runs in a northwesterly direction and its first 8 miles are navigable for any draft, but farther on it becomes too narrow for handling a ship of even small size. It is of no importance to navigation.
Barbarossa channel is the channel northward of Prat (Prince Heinrich) island, joining Hornby sound, with Fallos channel near its north end and southward of Ursula island.
Millar island, on the west side of the channel, and about 6 miles inside the north entrance, has a range of mountains extending from end to end. The highest, 2,400 feet, is very conspicuous when approaching from the north.
Fatal bay, on the western shore of Messier channel, about 10 miles north of Hornby sound, being quite unsheltered, with 25 fathoms close to the rocks, does not deserve the name of an anchorage. Immediately inside Fatal bay is a small cove with a narrow entrance, and deep water inside.
Baker islands, consisting of three large and several smaller islands, are on the east side of the northern entrance to Messier channel. Zealous island, the northwestern of the group, is about 3,000 feet high; the western shore of this island is fronted by several small islands.
Hale cove, on the west side of Orlebar island, has sheltered anchor- age in 16 to 17 fathoms, mud, and is marked by two small islets off its entrance. Passing inside the outer islands, which lie about a mile from it, the two small islets will be seen, and as they are passed the entrance to this harbor will open out. Anchorage may be had outside the cove, but it is not well sheltered »nd the bottom is rocky.
SCOUT CHANNEL — GUAINECO ISLANDS. 165
Marks. — In Hale cove are three patches of gray bare rock on the side of mount Orlebar, nearly abreast of the auchorage, but farther in over the head of the cove and higher up is one remarkable, vertical, long, white stripe. This single stripe is the most noticeable mark in the harbor, and is seen from the southward before the entrance was opened.
Scout channel, off Hale cove and between Scylla and Scout islands, is a safe passage, with a width of 50 yards and the shores quite steep-to. It may be useful for a vessel much pressed for time when coming from the northward, as she would save about 1^ miles.
Penguin island, on the west side of the entrance to Messier channel, has a flat top about the same height as the foreshore of Wellington island, and appears from seaward to form apart of the lowland extend- ing from it.
Vessels using the Southwest pass should keep the Wager island aboard.
Sombrero island, on the east side of entrance to Messier channel, is 1,345 feet high and has a remarkable rounded appearance when seen from seaward. On approaching it a low and regular foreshore will be seen.
Tarn bay, in which the channels from Magellan strait open into the Gulf of Penas, is about 15 miles wide, having the Ayautau islands on its eastern side 5 miles from the mainland. On the coast abreast the islands there is a port called by the missionary voyagers San Poli- carpo, but it is exposed to the westward.
Ayautau islands, the largest of which is about 570 feet high, serve as an excellent mark to steer for in making the Messier channel from the gulf of Penas, all the small islands of the western point of entrance being low, while the eastern shore shows an abrupt mountainous out- line. Directly the entrance is passed both shores are of the same high rugged character, with numerous peaks and capes, but all alike in char- acter, and succeeding each other so rapidly that it would not be easy to distinguish them separately, nor, indeed, is it necessary, so perfectly clear is the channel at this part. The space between the islands and the mainland appears to be foul.
Ouaineco islands, off the north end of Wellington island, are 20 miles in extent, and consist of two principal and many smaller ones. The westernmost is called Byron island and the easternmost Wager island. They are separated by Bundle pass, at the north of which is Speedwell bay. Bundle pass is only J mile wide, bilt clear in the whole extent of its channel, excepting the northern entrance, where it is guarded by many detached rocks, which render the entrance to Speedwell bay rather difficult.
Wager and Byron islands are both high, and, with the Ayautau islands, mark the entrance to the channel well. Wager island may be recognized by motint Anson, 1,230 feet high and conical, and Wager mountain^ 1,700 feet high, with a fl^t top, about 2 miles south of mount
166 PATAGONIAK CHANNELS.
Anson. Both are easily made oat from the westward at a distance of 30 or 40 miles.
Port Ballenas. — If after reaching Tarn bay the vessel should be met by a strong foul wind, or the still more common occnrrence of a heavy westerly sea into the galf of Penas, and she has not time to reach port Otway, a fairly good anchorage may be had under the lee of Wager island, in what is believed to be the Puerto Ballenas of Machado, who was a i»lot in the days when Ohile was a Spanish colony. This anchor- age is the first deep indentation on the SK. side of Wager island. The space is confined and the bottom uneven and rocky, but it is quite sheltered by the island from all northerly and northwesterly winds, and no sea can get up there. A depth of 11 fathoms may be had on the west side oft* a small islet, with just room to swing.
Puerto Chico, 2 miles to the westward of the SE. point of Wager island, is a cove 600 yards deep and about as wide, in which small craft can find shelter. The head of the cove is full of kelp. Probably port Ballenas and Puerto Ghico are identical.
Tides. — In the northern part of Messier channel the tides are regu- lar, running 6^ hours each way. The flood stream sets northward and the ebb southward, but their strength is so small as not to aftect navigation.
G-nlf of Peftas.— See page 173.
THE OUTER ROUTE, EASTWARD OP MORNINQTON AND CAM-
PANA ISLANDS.
(H. O. Charts 447 and 447a.)
From an exploration by the Imperial German vessel AlbatrosSj in 1883-84, as an alternative to the route by Wide channel, English nar- nows, and Messier channel, it was proved that ships can gain the gulf of Penas by Trinidad, Picton, Stosch, and Fallos channels. The latter route is slightly longer than that hitherto adopted. Captain Pludde- man, who explored this route, states that it is preferable for large ves- sels. This opinion from the officer who has made a survey of it must be considered with respect, and no doubt in moderate weather is amply justified, but an examination of the chart shows that the bar across the northern end of Picton channel has a greatest depth of 34 feet in a pass, 350 yards wide at the most, which is bounded on either side by much shoaler water, and has no prominent leading mark.
Seeing that this bar is inadequately protected from the heavy sea setting on the coast in ISW. gales, it would appear that the report previ- ously made by the officers of H. M. S. Alert, "that the heavy sea would break on the bar in bad weather/' can not be disregarded, and the possibility of difficulties and delays at this spot points to the conclusion that the inner route is on the whole preferable.
channel, with an average breadth of 1^ miles, extends to the
THE OUTER ROUTB. 167
northward and westward for about 20 miles, with bold shores inter- sected by inlets on either side, and deep water in mid-channel. Morn- ington island, the western shore, then becomes low and dips gradually to the northward till it ends 36 miles from Trinidad channel in an extensive area of rocks, islets, and disconnected breakers, with no prominent islets fit for leading marks to guide a vessel through the channels to the sea.
The seaward face of the land consists of numerous reefs and rocks extending the whole distance from cape Pakenham to Vorposton island at 20 miles farther north, where there is an apparent break of 6 to 7 miles. The reefs commence again at cape Montague and extend thence apparently to Western rock. Picton channel, which has at its southern end a depth of 145 fathoms, shoals toward its northern end to the bar above mentioned.
Payne bay is on the west shore, 15 miles from the south entrance. The Alert rode out a heavy gale for two days here in 9 fathoms, sand. SW. of Payne bay a narrow opening, having 2 fathoms water in mid channel, leads into an extensive lagoon, apparently extending to Bossi bight.
Clara bay, at the northern entrance to Seaview channel, on the northern shore of Mornington island, has extensive anchoring ground in 6 to 16 fathoms on a bank extending southward and eastward from Emma island; also on that extending NW. from Gerd island. 'No anchorage could be found either in Eversfield or Cohen fiords, on the opposite side of the channel.
Flotten (Fleet) harbor is formed by islands and shoals, just south of the bar at the northern end of Picton channel, f mile SW. of Latitude island; the anchoring ground is about one mile north and south, by i mile wide, with general depths of 8 or 9 fathoms, fine sandy bottom.
The passage in is close south of Latitude island; shoal ground, marked by kelp, extends ^ mile from Tang island on the south side of the passage in.
Bar. — Shoal ground extends quite a mile northward, and ^ mile northeastward of Latitude island; the deepest part over the bar is 34 feet on the west side, the limit of the safe passage being well marked by kelp. The passage having the above depth is at the most 350 feet wide, having shallower water on either side. The swell is heavy and would probably break in bad weather.
Spengler bight, 4^ miles northward of Latitude island, has an anchorage in 5 fathoms, just inside of some rocks at the entrance. At the head of the bight is a portage used by Indians to transport their canoes into Klippen fiord.
Stortebecker breaker is the northern known danger on the west- em side of Picton channel.
Iiadrillero (Stosch) channel, north of Picton channel and on the west of Wellington island, is a continuation of the route by way of
168 PATAOONIAN CHANHEL8.
Picton channel. It is the lower part of Fallos channel, and extends to the Knick, a distance of aboat 25 miles, and has several arms or fiords.
Estero Desengano (Falscher arm) is the last of the esteros which empty into Ladrillero channel before the junction of the latter with the ocean. It extends for about 15 miles in a southeasterly direction, and terminates with an anchorage in about 16 fathoms, mud bottom, with good holding ground. On its east side are the esteros Chico, Roberto, Maldonado, and Adelaida, all of which are without anchorage and unim- portant to navigation. On the west side, near its entrance, is estero Pedregoso (Rocky fiord), a narrow inlet with many islets, and rocks awash, which make it very dangerous. On the same side farther south are four small esteros in which vessels of any size can find anchorage. The best of these is Port Seguro, nearly opposite to the estero Adelaida. It is perfectly sheltered and has good holding ground in 16 fathoms of waiter, mud bottom.
Labyrinth channeL — The esteros Inutil, Dona Ana, and Solitario empty into Labyrinth channel, which is otherwise unimportant. On the eastern shore of Dona Ana estero is Puerto Bueno, well protected, with good holding ground in about 7 fathoms water, but it is of very limited dimensions.
Heman Gallego channel connects Machado and Ladrillero channels and separates Angamos island from Singular peninsula. It runs in a southeasterly direction and is easy to navigate, except near its junction with the Machado, where several islands cut up the channel into passes of 200 to 400 yards in width. The channel is deep throughout and offers no anchorage.
Kosmos harbor, at the southern end of Staude island, 10^ miles from the seaward entrance to Ladrillero (Stosch) channel, affords anchorage in from 11 to 17 fathoms, but the space is confined.
Outlying rocks are found 300 yards off either point of entrance, and the soundings over the harbor appear irregular.
A small anchorage was found by the Albatross in Wilcke fiord, but none could be discovered around Stubbenkammer island.
Fallos channel was explored from the northern entrance for 30 miles by Mr. Kirke, of H. M. S. Beagle, who says '4ts average breadth is from 1^ to 2 miles, deep and clear of rocks, and abounding in anchorages for small vessels."
From the Knick, where Ladrillero (Stosch) channel terminates, Fal- los channel trends in a northerly direction for 65 miles, where it joins the gulf of Penas. It has the great disadvantage of having no anchorage for large vessels near the entrance from that gulf, in case of meeting a NW. gale.
The esteros of San Jos6, Artigas, Sofia, Corto, and Triple have their mouths in Fallos channel. They are navigable for any class of ships, but near their heads narrow down so as to make the working of a ship difficult. They are unimportant to navigation, having no practicable
THE OUTER ROUTE. 169.
anchorage. Doiia Elvira bay, in Don Jose estero, is spacious and per- fectly sheltered against the winds, but so deep that it can not be used as an anchorage. The Chilean steamer Toro found no bottom at 40 fathoms in the center of the bay.
Preussische bay is on the western shore of the Knick, and is divided into three arms, named, respectively, Konigs harbor, Bachem bight, and Tiefe bay. The Albatross steamed up Bachem bight, which was found obstructed by rocks.
Konigs harbor, the southwestern arm of Preussische bay, is one mile long in a westerly direction and J mile wide in the widest part. There is well- sheltered anchorage in about 16 fathoms. When steering up Preussische bay for Konigs harbor, care must be taken in vessels of heavy draft to avoid Preussische bank, having 26 feet over it and lying in the middle of the fairway, 1,200 yards eastward of the harbor entrance.
Port Choros is 2 miles inside the estero Molnscos (Havana inlet) or Eiguelme (Knorr) island. It is sheltered against all winds excepting those from the southeastward, but it has no good holding ground. It is recommended for smaller craft only.
Puerto G-rande is on the west side of Fallos channel, obliquely opposite the entrance to Cortes Ojea channel, and is spacious enough for the largest vessel. In its center there is 29 fathoms of water over -a bed of mud, but anchorage can be obtained in 19 fathoms nearer the northwestern shore. The port is preferably entered by the pass north of Goicolea island, in which there is 7^ to 11 fathoms of water. In the pass south of the island there is much kelp, and it does not appear to be clear.
Three deep ravines converge at this port which, in bad weather, give passage to strong winds, making the anchorage insecure. For this reason the port can be recommended only in good weather.
Castillos channel (Hesserman fiord) is less than a mile wide where it connects with Fallos channel, but afterwards widens out to 2 miles and more. About 10 miles from its junction with Fallos channel it connects with a small gulf in which are the mouths of various channels running in a southerly direction, among them Sotomayor channel.
Sotomayor channel (Pawelsz fiord) was entered, and as far as the vessel went up it was found deep and clear. According to Machado, it connects with Dyneley bay, and through Castillo channel and Bastian fiord with Fallos channel.
Machado channel branches from Fallos channel near the Knick and separates Angamos island from the continent. It runs in a south- erly direction for nearly 30 miles, diminishing in width as it reaches farther south. In its narrow part it is perfectly straight and not diffi- cult to navigate. The five esteros emptying on its east side are unim- portant and without anchorage. On the western side of its southern end is port Abrigado, with excellent anchorage in about 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, and good holding ground.
170 I^ATAGONIA — ^WEST COAST.
Albatross harbor, on the eastern shore of Fallos channel^ at 22 miles SE. from cape Byiioe and 6 miles nortli of Albatross channel, was used by the Albatross. The outer harbor was found to be too deep for anchorage, but there is g^od anchorage in the inner harbor.
Jungfemgnmd anchorage is describe<l as a temporary anchorage at the mouth of a channel between innumerable islands, situated 3 miles east of cape Bynoe. It is not recommended, and no other safe anchorage could be found in the neighborhood.
OnlfofPtfaa. See page 173.
The outer coast from Magellan strait to the gulf of Penas will now be described.
PATAGONIA— WEST COAST.
and "weather. — The climate of the coast of Chile between Magellan strait and the gulf of Penas is cold, damp, and tempestuous. The prevailing wind is from !NW, ; but if it blows hard from that quar- ter the wind is very liable to shift suddenly round to the westward, and blow still heavier, raising a mountainous and often a cross sea. These westerly gales, however, do not generally last long, but shift round to the southward, when the weather, if the barometer rises, will probably clear up. Should they, however, fly back to the NW. again, and the barometer remain low, or oscillate, the weather will doubtless be worse. Easterly winds are of rare occurrence, and, like winds from the southward, are accompanied with fine, clear weather; whereas west- erly winds bring with them a constant fall of rain and a quick succession of hard squalls and showers.
Should a vessel be near the coast during these northwesterly gales, it would be advisable to make an offing as quickly as possible, in order to guard against that sudden shift to the westward which is almost certain to ensue. A knowledge, however, of the anchorages in Trini- dad channel, Port Barbara (for small vessels), Port Otway, and St. Quentin sound has very much reduced the dangers of the lee shore, and a refuge in either of them will often be preferable to passing a night on this coast during a severe gale.
The barometer falls with northerly and westerly winds, but rises with southerly. It is at its minimum height with NW. winds and at its maximum when the wind is SE. The temperature is rarely so low as 40^, excepting in the winter months. At Port Otway, in the gulf of Penas, the maximum and minimum for nineteen days in the month of June (winter) were, respectively, 51^ and 27°.
Tides.— High water on most parts of this coast takes place within half an hour on either side of noon, at full and change. The stream is inconsiderable, and the rise and fall rarely more than 6 feet.
(H.O. Chart No. 446.)
The coast between cape Victory, the NW. entrance point of Magel- lan strait and ]^elson strait, a distance of about 30 miles, is much
LECKY MOIOJMENT — SCOUT BOCKS. I7l
broken and intersected by cbaunels leading between the islands of Qnecm Adelaide archipelago. At 6^ miles NNE. of cape Victory there is a remarkable pyramidal hill named Diaua peak, 3,350 feet high, which in clear weather is visible from the entrance of Magellan strait. Between cape Victory and cape Isabel, at 27 miles NNW. of it, there are several dangerous rocks. The westernmost of these rocks, on which the sea breaks, is reported to lie S. 45^ W. (S. 23^ W. mag.), 7J miles from Beagle island.
Lecky monument, about II miles KKE. from cape Victory, is a remarkable isolated, pillar-shaped mountain, 3,600 feet high, forming a conspicuous landmark when approaching Magellan strait from the northward.
Cape Isabel, in latitnde 51^ 50' S., longitude 75^ 9' W. (approxi- mate), the western cape of Queen Adelaide archipelago, is a steep, rocky promontory of great height, with a peaked summit and a sharply serrated ridge, having two detached columnar masses of rock.
Beagle island, about 450 feet high and about 4^ miles south of cape Isabel, is precipitous.
Cape George, 1,000 feet high, the southwestern extreme of Cam- bridge island, is a bluff. point, with a number of detached rocks off its south and southeast shores.
Between capes George and Isabel is ifelson strait.
Lecky Lookout, on Cambridge island, is about 3,800 feet high, and, from its superior height to that of any other mountain in the neighbor- hood, is an excellent mark for determining the vessel's position.
(H. O. Chart No. 446a.)
Cape Santa Lucia, the western point of Cambridge island, is high and precipitous, with an islet about 3 miles to the southward.
San Bias channel. Duck and Duncan harbors, and the rocks, reefs, and part of the coast line are laid down on the charts from the oral information received from masters of sailing vessels and from distant observations on board of H. M. S. Beagle.
Dangers. — ^Two dangers have been reported as lying nearly in line between cape Santa Lucia and cape Santiago : A sunken rock, which breaks occasionally in a high sea in (approximate) latitude 51^ 11' S., longitude 75° 28^' W.; Cordillera reef, just awash, on which the sea breaks heavily, in (approximate) latitude 50^ 58' S., longitude 75° 33' W.
Duncan rock is in latitude 51o 10' S., longitude 75o 27' W.
A conical islet is southeastward of Duncan rock, in latitude 51^ 13' 10" S. and longitude 75o 25' W.
•V7hite Horse island is in latitude 51° 7' S., longitude 75o 10' W.
Scout rocks, SW. of Duke of York island, and about 10 feet high, are reported to be identical with Virago rocks, shown on charts in lati- tude 60O 46' 45" S., longitude 75° 32' W., and that the true position is between the two and nearer to that given for Virago rock.
172 PATAGONIA — ^WEST COAST.
Caution. — Navigators are cautioned that the coast and the off lying dangers between Magellan strait and the gulf of Peiias have not been closely examined, and that therefore the charts are necessarily imper- fect. Too close an approach to this dangerous and inhospitable shore 18 not advisable.
Cape Santiago lies nearly 48 miles NNW. of cape Sunta Lucia, and is the southwestern extremity of Duke of York island, which is separated from Hanover and Madre islands by Concepcion strait and the West channel.
The channels separating Duke of York, Hanover, and Madre islands comumnicate with the inshore channels at Inocentes island, but very little is known about either.
Madre island. — The general direction of the coast line of this island is north and south, with low islands and rocks from 5 to G miles off- shore until just north of April peak, where a deep sound extends to the eastward. Horn peak, about 2,500 feet high, is a very conspicuous object when seen from the northward. All this part of the coast has a different appearance from the shores of Trinidad channel, beiug nearly clear of vegetation and of a light-gray color. This is remark- able from seaward, and is a good guide when closing the land from the westward.
Trinidad channel See page 139.
(H. O. Chart No. 447.)
Rugged head (cape Three Peaks of the old charts) is a detached mass of rock of a pyramidal form lying at the base of the Tudor range. It is not easily made out when seen from the westward, but from the north or south it appears as a round-topped island, and may be further recognized by a peculiar mass of rock resembling a shoe on the slope of the range.
The remarks about the precautions necessary in approaching the coast south of the gulf of Trinidad are equally applicable to that north of it.
The seaward face of the land consists of numerous reefs and rocks extending the whole distance from cape Pakenham to Vorpaston island, where there is an apparent break of from 6 to 7 miles. The reefs com- mence again at cape Montague. Off cape Montague a low, rocky reef extends for more than 6 miles.
The coast north of cape Montague is broken in many places. There are many rocks, several being at least 10 miles distant, with deep water around them; many are dry, some awash, and others show only by the breaking of the sea.
Cape Dyer is the NW. cape of Campana island.
Reported danger. — A sunken danger, upon which the sea was seen breaking, was reported from the steamship Cotopaxi in 1875 to be approximately in latitude 49o 31' S., longitude 76o 46' W.
PORT BARBARA GULP OF PENAS. 173
VTestem rock, in latitude 49^ 5' S., longitude 75° 50' W., is a conical- shaped rock, about 9 miles NW. of cape Montague, the SW. extreme of Gampana island. At 3^ miles north of this rock, in latitude 49^ V S., longitude 75^ 60' W., there is a reef on which the sea breaks heavily.
Dundee rock is an islet 5^ miles west of cape Dyer. One mile northward of this rock there are 24 fathoms of water, and the depth gradually decreases on approaching the shore. This rock is an excel- lent mark for making Port Barbara, bearing from its entrance S. 66^ W. (S. 450 W. mag.), distant 8^ miles.
Rock. — A rock upon which the sea almost always breaks lies mid- way between Dundee rock and the shore, approximately in latitude 480 5|' S., longitude 75° 34' W.
Port Barbara is south of Breaksea island, by which it is sheltered. Between it and the anchorage ground are depths of 3J to 4f fathoms. It is only adapted to small vessels.
Anchorage is found both in Sand bay and Mud bay, but the outer part of Sand bay is occupied by a sandy and shallow flat, so that only very small vessels can get far enough in to obtain shelter from the swell.
Mud bay, the eastern of the two, has 21 feet of water at the entrance, but 400 yards farther south has anchorage in 16 fathoms, mud.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Port Barbara at 28m.; springs rise 6 feet.
Directions. — When standing in for this port from the southward and westward, as soon as cape Dyer bears S. 23° W. (S. 2^ W. mag.) the vessel will be close to some rocks, which must be left on the port hand. The depth will be 11 fathoms when passing them at a distance of J mile. Here the channel is one mile wide, gradually narrowing as Break- sea island is neared, until at Wreck point, round which the port opens, the breadth is not much more than 200 yards. There are several rocks in this passage, but the anchor may be dropped and the vessel warped clear of them in case of being becalmed.
Flixm sound, a deep opening 2^ miles eastward of Port Barbara, trends 4J miles in a southerly direction.
Bynoe point, with the Bynoe islands extending 2 miles from it, forms the western head of the Fallos channel. There is a clear j^assage between the point and the islands, bounded on either hand by rocks and breakers.
Southwest pass. — The Guaianeco islands {see page 165) are sepa- rated from Wellington islands by a clear, but in some parts narrow, passage, the width of which at its SW. end is contracted by rocks to IJ miles, and at the south extreme of Byron island it is scarcely one mile. The north point of Wellington islands is cape San Roman, round which the Messier channel trends away to the southeastward.
(H. O. Chart No. 447a.)
Gulf of Peflas, between Guaianeco islands and Tres Montes penin- jsula, is about 45 miles across, and, from a line joining the two, extends
174 PATAQONIA — ^WEBT COAST.
eastward the same distance. There are many inlets and soands in the galf, bat a large x>ortion of its shores are unsorveyed. The Patagonian channels open into the southern part of the gnlf.
Boca de Canales, on the eastern shore of the gnlf of Penas, as well as all this part of the coast, is from Machado's account. It nms in a SE. direction for 11 miles and then divides into two arms, one turning to the eastward for 15 miles and the other II miles to the south ward, where they terminate. They are merely deep and narrow arms of the sea, running between steep sided ranges of mountains. The shores are rocky, afibrding neither coves nor bights, not even shelter for a boat, and are entirely unproductive.
Two miles off cape Machado there are two rocks which the pilot care- fully and correctly describes, as he also does the rocks and breakers that extend from the south head for nearly 3 miles. The Beagle twice occupied an anchorage under the Hazard islands, and on both occasions was detained many days by bad weather.
Excepting this very bad and exposed anchorage there is no other in this channel, and Captain Stokes, commanding H. M. S. Beagle^ describes it as being extremely perilous. He says: '^The anchors were in 23 fathoms, on a bad bottom, sand and coral. The squalls were terrifically violent. Astern, at the distance of 100 yards, were low rocks and islets, upon which a furious surf raged, and on which the ship must have been inevitably driven if the anchors, of which three were down, had started."
Jesuit sound. — Between the Boca de Ganales and Jesuit sound the coast is more unbroken, and lower than usual. In latitude 47° 17' S. lie some reefs, which project 2 miles to seaward; but behind them there was an appearance of a bight which might, perhaps, afford anchorage. Jesuit sound is unfit to be entered by any ship. It terminates in two inlets, Benito and Julian. The former is bounded on either side by high mountains, and terminates in low land, with a rivulet that origi- nates in a large glacier; the latter ends in high mountainous laud, with streams of water between the hills; one part of it is cliffy, and it has on the SW. side a long sandy beach. In its entrance a large island makes the passage on either side very narrow, and both of them are rendered still more so by rocks and islets.
Xavier island, which is separated by Gheape channel from the main and the entrance to Jesuit sound, is 11 miles long, in a northeasterly and southwesterly direction, 4 miles wide, high, and thickly wooded with lofty trees.
Anchorages. — The only two anchorages which it affords are on the eastern side. They are noticed and named by Machado, the northern one port Xavier* the southern Ignacio bay. Port Xavier is by far the better place, being secure from the prevailing winds, with 17 fathoms at 800 yards from the shore. The south end of the i)ort is a sandy beach, backed by tall beech trees. The shore to the south of the port,
KELLY HARBOR — SAN EttTEVAN GULF. 175
for the jfirst 4 or 5 miles, consists of a higb, steep, clay cliff, with a nar- row stony beach at its base, rising into mountains of 1,200 to 1,400 feet high, which are covered by large and straight-stemmed trees. The remainder of the coast to Ignacio bay is low and slightly wooded with stunted trees, and its whole extent is lashed with a fiirious surf that totally prevents boats from landing. Ignacio bay affords anchor- age in 9 fathoms. The western coast of the island is lined by reefs extending 2 miles off, upon which the sea breaks high.
Kelly harbor, in the NE. corner of the gulf of Pefias, between Cheape channel and San Bstevan gulf, takes a northeasterly direction for 8 miles, and the land about it is high, rugged, and rocky, a peak on the south side being 1,540 feet high, but by no means destitute of ver- dure. The interior shows many lofty peaked and craggy ranges of snow-covered mountains. The points of entrance are 2 miles apart, and are thickly wooded and low compared with the adjacent land. Between them the channel is from 35 to 40 fathoms deep, over a mud bottom, and to within 200 yards of the rocky islets that fringe the shore for the breadth of J mile.
On approaching the harbor the very muddy appearance of the water is somewhat startling. This discoloration is due to the streams pro- duced from an extensive glacier that stretches many miles inland.
For standing in the course is S. 47° E. (S. 67° E. mag.) until on the line between the inner north point and an islet off the south shore fronted by several wooded islets, then haul up along the north shore, keeping it close aboard, and anchor in 20 fathoms with the two points of entrance shut in with each other, and when within 300 yards of the sand spit which extends off* the western end of a high and thickly wooded island.
The holding ground is excellent. Shelter, wood, and water are the only advantages offered by the harbor. Environed by lofty mountains and ice filled valleys and ravines, it is chill, damp, and dreary. A few birds and a small number of hair seals were the only living animals seen by the Beagle.
The glacier is a good leading mark for this harbor, being a large mass of ice lying on the low ground to the northward. When in the fairway of the port the Sugarloaf in Holloway sound will be seen in line with the extremity of the land to the northward of Purcell island bearing nearly ]S^. 70^ W. (West mag.).
San Estevan gulf. — The entrance to this gulf is 10 miles northward of the I^E. extreme of Xavier island, between Oirujauo island and a long sandy beach on which a furious surf breaks, curving round to the NW. toward the entrance of San Tadeo river. Dead Tree islet lies in the center of the entrance.
Anchorage.— The gulf is one of the best harbors on the coast, being easy of access and with moderate depths of water, good holding ground, and a clean bottom, The best berth is about 2 miles N. 3§o
176 PATAGONIA — ^WEST COAST.
W. (N. 560 W. mag.) from Dead Tree islet, in from 4 to 6 fitthoms, sandy bottom.
Cinqano peninsnla is connected with Forelins peninsula by an isth- mus covered with small trees. On the northern side of the isthmus is a shallow bay of no service to ships. The missionary priests describe a port on the peninsula called San Tomas.
San Qnentin sound. — San Estevan gulf divides into two branches— San Quentin sound, which extends for 10 miles westward between the main and Forelins peninsula, and Aldunate inlet, which runs in 8 miles to the FW. San Quentin sound terminates in continuous lowland, with patches of sandy beach, over which, among other lofty mountains one named the Dome of St. Paul is seen. The shores are thickly wooded with shapely and well-grown trees; the land near the beach for the most part, is low, but rises into mountainous peaks, some of which, in the interior, are 1,600 feet high, but not craggy.
San Tadeo river.— The mouth of this river is easily distinguished, on entering San Estevan gulf, by the sand hills on each side of its entrance and by the eastern trend of Cirujano peninsula, bearing S. 40O W. (S. 20O W. mag.). A sandy beach extends east and west of it for many miles, the land being low and marshy and covered with stumps of dead trees. The river has a bar entrance, much of which must be nearly dry at spring tides. A heavy swell breaks upon it for its whole length, so that no opening or swatch way is left, and, except in very fine weather, it is extremely hazardous to cross. At the mouth the breadth is not more than J mile, but within the entrance it opens to a basin of some extent, and at 3 miles up it is 300 yards wide after which it gradually narrows.
About 7 miles witbin the entrance the stream is divided into two arms; the northern arm, or Black river, takes a northerly and the other an easterly direction. The former is a strong and rapid stream quite uninfluenced by the tide, which, however, is found for a short distance up the eastern arm, but beyond that the current down becomes generally as strong as in Black river. Its banks are comparatively barren to those of Black river, where the wood is very thick. The courses of both arms are very tortuous, and the bed of the river was so choked with trunks and branches of trees as to prevent it being properly explored, as well as the discovery of the Desecho, the place where the Indians carry their canoes across the isthmus of Ofqui.
With reference to a supposed passage through from San Estevan gulf to Ohonos sea, the result of a Chilean expedition entirely dis- proves its existence.
Forelius peninsula is a strip of land 10 miles long by 3 miles wide, forming the southern shore of San Quentin sound. It terminates in an isthmus of low, sandy land scarcely a mile wide.
Purcell islands consist of one large and five small islands. The large island is moderately high, thickly wooded, and about 6 miles m
TRES MONTES GULP — ^PORT OTWAY. 177
circuit. These islands are separated from the SW. part of Forelius peninsula by a good channel, 2 miles wide. About mid-channel, and nearly abreast the east end of the island, there is a rock only a few feet above water.
Bad bay, 8 miles N W. of Purcell islands, is open to the 8W. and to a heavy rolling sea. In clear weather cape Tres Montes can be seen from the mouth of this bay.
Tres Montes gulf, westward of Bad bay, is 16 miles by 12, and includes the Marine islands, one of which, the Sugarloaf, a mountain 1,840 feet high, is very conspicuous. Upon the maiu, about 6 miles north from the Sugarloaf, is another equally remarkable mountain, 2,284 feet high, which was named by Byron the Dome of St. Paul.
At the K W. part of the gulf is Hoppner sound, about 5 miles across, and a deep inlet penetrates 7 miles to the SW., reaching to within 2 miles of the exterior coast, from which it is separated by an isthmus of low and thickly wooded land. The Marine islands leave but little room for entering the sound, but the southern channel, though narrow, has plenty of water. On the SW. side of Marine islands is Holloway sound, leading to Port Otway, an inlet extending 5 miles inland in a southwest direction.
Neuman inlet, at the northeast part of Tres Montes gulf, extends 17 miles inland, where it terminates, being separated from Puelma inlet by an isthmus about one mile wide. It is unserviceable, as the water is too deep for anchorage.
Port Otway. — The entrance of Port Otway is on the south side of Holloway sound, about 15 miles northeastward of cape Tres Montes, and may be readily known by its being the first opening after passing cape Stokes, which forms the eastern extremity of the peninsula of Tres Montes. Off the mouth are the Entrance isles, the easternmost of which is Logan rock, having a resemblance to the celebrated rock near the Lands End in Cornwall, the name of which it bears. It is broad and flat at the top, decreasing to its base, which is very small, and connected to the rock upon which it seems to rest.
Immediately within the entrance of Port Otway on the western shore there is a sandy beach, over which a rivulet discharges itself into the bay, and just off that beach anchorage may be had in 9 or 10 fathoms, the most convenient berth that the port affords, well sheltered, but the bottom is stony.
It is reported, 1884, that there is shoaler water than formerly in the above-mentioned bay, soundings of 3 fathoms having been obtained by H. M. S. Kingfisher.
Two miles within the entrance the port opens into a large, deep inlet, with two arms extending southwest and southeast respectively. This inlet contains anchorages all over it, but they are inconvenient on account of the great depth of water. An island also lies in the mouth, with a narrow passage about 200 yards broad on each side of it. The
1943— No. 89 12
178 PATAGONIA — ^WEST COAST.
eckstem one is shoal. There appears to be an anchorage in a small bay outside and south of the harbor.
As a place of refuge, or for any maritime purpose not requiring very dry weather, few ports on any uninhabited coast can be better adapted than Port Otway, its situation making it very valuable for vessels bound either way.
Of this harbor Lieutenant-Commander Tanner, United States Navy, says: ^^ Port Otway is by far the best harbor for all classes of vessels that we found in the straits or western Patagonian channels, and the facilities for obtaining wood and water are unsurpassed."
Directions. — In this latitude, where changes are so sudden, it will frequently happen that a vessel quitting the Messier channel in the morning finds herself caught in a westerly gale, or with a very threat- ening night coming on before she can clear the gulf of Peitas. In this case Port Otway is a safe harbor, which may be made in the heaviest weather without fear, the shores of the mainland as well as of the islands being steep-to.
Vessels bound to the southward in the thick tempestuous weather, which is the normal state in these regions, may reach this port when it would be very imprudent to run for the lee shore on the south side of the gulf. Under these circumstances the vessel should try and make the land about cape Tres Montes, and after sighting it follow the coast round to the first opening which presents itself; but in doing this do not pass too closely to cape Stokes and the next point to the southward of it, as there are some rocks ofi' them. Wood and water are plentiful here as everywhere throughout the channels to the southward.
The rock off the cape next west of cape Stokes is about 60 feet high, and the outer rock, which lies about i mile northeastward of cape Stokes, is rugged and of a dark color.
Cape Stokes should not be approached very closely in thick weather,
as the outer rocks off it are low ; the cape is about 500 to 600 feet high.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Otway at llh. 37m. j springs rise 6 feet.
Cape Stokes anchorage is about 1^ miles to the northward of cape Stokes, and during westerly winds good anchorage may be obtained in about 12 fathoms, with the outer rock bearing S. 4° W. (S. 16° E. mag.), cape Stokes S. 32^ W. (S. 12^ W. mag.), and a gully next north of cape Stokes N. 330 W. (N. 53° W. mag.).
Cape Tres Montes is the southern extremity of a peninsula of the same name. It is a bold and remarkable headland, rising from the sea to the height of 1,500 feet, with no apparent dangers beyond a distance of 400 yards from the shore.
Off the point between cape Tres Montes and cape Stokes there is a singular, high rock, which when seen from the SE. looks like a brigan- tine under sail.
The tops of the hills in the vicinity of cape Tres Montes are often
CAPE TRES MONTES. 179
hidden by clouds or thick squalls, when the lower land can be seen from a distance of 2 miles or more.
The peninsula of Tres Montes is separated from that of Tatao by a remarkable cut, which is a good landmark when the summits of the hills are obscured.
Easterly current. — Instances have occurred of ships being placed in great danger from a strong easterly current in the neighborhood of cape Tres Montes 5 great vigilance must therefore be exercised when making this landfall.
From cape Tres Montes to Chiloe mariners should also be on their guard against a strong set toward the land, which frequently occurs.
CHAPTER IV.
COAST OF CHILE-CAPE TRES MONIES TO CHACAO NARROWS-CHONAS
ARCHIPELAGO AND CHILOE ISLAND.
The winds of the coast of Valdivia and of the archipelago to the south are usually from the NW. and SW. quadrants. Northeasterly winds are damp, and precede bad weather, whereas those from the southward and the eastward are dry and bring good weather. They are not strong, however, and are of short duration, though cases have been recorded in which they blew with considerable violence. The winds from the south to the west prevail in the summer, and those from the north to the west during the winter.
From the beginning of spring, that is, the end of March, until Sep- tember, the winds rise in the NE., blowing gently at first, but freshen- ing as they veer to the northward; they increase rapidly to a gale, especially when they pass quickly to N W. ; the atmosphere becomes damp and disagreeable. Sometimes the wind oscillates at first between north and NE. From NW. the wind passes to SW., sometimes by degrees, at others with a sudden shift; very often it changes forward and backward between NW. and SW., and backs to north for several days, but during such change it never goes back to the eastward of north. When it goes back from SW. or WSW. to NW., bad weather must be expected. In this case it generally comes again from the S W. at sunset, and the change is then so violent and unexpected as to endanger the masts of vessels.
Before the shifts from N W. to SW. a clearing in the sky is generally observed between west and SW., or a simple rent in the clouds to the SW. This is a sure sign and mariners should be warned by it. This phenomenon resembles the bull's eye of the cyclonists, and was called by the Spaniards el cjo de torro. When the wind from the NW. is very fresh and it rains very hard at the same time, a sudden change may be expected to the west and SW. This usually takes place about sunset. It may happen that the shift occurs during a heavy rain, or so quickly after its announcement that there is no time for preparation, but this is rare.
From S W. the wind passes to south without any diminution of its force; then to SE., where it also often retains its strength, especially on the coast, during the months of June, July, and August; it dies out between SE. and east and rises again in the NE., after a calm of more or less duration. During these changes the barometer stands high.
180
WINDS. 181
The winds from the NE. are very seldom fresh, and do not increase much until after passing the north or NNW. x>oints. When the winds blow from the north or NE. the vessels of the archipelago of Ohiloe do not leave their anchorages, as the mariners know that the strongest squalls and the heaviest rains come from those points.
From September to March the winds from the SW. quadrant pre- dominate. They sometimes blow heavily, but with a clear sky and fine atmosphere. When the wind blows from the south and SE. it becomes cold and the weather fine. The wind dies out at SE., and after a calm, with a clear sky, the wind springs up light from the JSE.; it then becomes cloudy and rain commences to fall heavily. This gen- erally lasts for two days, sometimes longer, until the winds change slowly against the sun to the southward of west, after which the fine weather sets in again.
During the spring and summer lightning is an indication of strong wind, and it often precedes a sudden shift. During the winter light- ning is also common, and indicates changes of the wind.
When the change of weather takes place during the night sparks of electricity are seen in the atmosphere toward the horizon, and reports similar to those of a rifle are heard. Thunder is rarely heard at sea, but it is frequently over the thick forests of Ghiloe and on the con- tinent. Certain physical, thermometric, and barometric phenomena accompany the changes of the wind. After calms of short duration, which are accompanied by a high barometer and clear sky, the atmos- phere between north and east becomes very clear, and a bluish or light-green tint is observed in the sky in those directions. The mer- cury then commences to fall slowly and the temperature rises a little, according to the season. These phenomena together are a sure indi- cation of a blow from the north to west in a few hours. A dark band rises to the northward, the sky becomes covered with a thick mantle of clouds, and the KE. breeze freshens as it changes toward the north. At this point the wind has almost reached its full force, as it only increases a little when passing the NW. point. It generally remains variable between WNW. and NW. for a little while before it shifts gradually or suddenly toward west, WSW., and SW. During the greatest force of the squall it does not rain, but sometimes drizzles lightly. The atmosphere is very hazy, and the clouds ^pass from north to south. As soon as the rain commences it becomes necessary to watch the horizon in the west and SW., in order not to be surprised by a sudden shift of wind.
As long as the barometer falls the weather remains bad and the wind continues steady from the NW. If, however, the barometer remains at a stand during the time that the wind is strongest, double attention must be paid, as the change of wind is near. Sometimes this is announced by a sudden rise of the mercury, but this latter phenome- non ordinarily happens simultaneously with the shift of wind.
182 COAST OP CHILE.
With FE. and 'SW. winds the barometer sometimes falls as low as 28.27 daring the strongest part of the gale. In an ordinary gale the barometer does not fall below 28.78. In case the shifb of wind is only momentary, the barometer rises a little, then remains fixed for a short time, and afterwards, when the wind has jumped back to NW., it again falls rapidly.
It happens sometimes that during a fresh SW. wind the barometer falls slowly. In that case it is certain that the wind will shift in a squall to N W. and lO W., and that it will rain heavily when the wind is about to jump bacK to SW. or west. During these squalls the tem- perature is notably lower than during those which begin at the NE. and north, from which circumstance it can be supposed that they have a different origin from the former. These blows are fresh and short, and generally die out in the west or south toward sunset. The dura- tion of the gales commencing from l^E. is uncertain; ordinarily they do not last longer than twenty-four hours, but they have continued two, three, four, and even ten days.
It is, therefore, evident that the gales on this part of the coast of Ohile follow the same laws as those of high southern latitudes. The sudden shifts which occur from NNW., NW., and WNW. to west, WSW., and SW. prove that these gales come generally from the west- ward or some point farther to the north. If the wind, after shifting to SW., jumps back to NW., the vessel must have drifted to the center of a cyclone of small velocity, or two cyclones must be following each other closely; but in all cases navigators should never lose sight of the fact that they are in a revolving gale, in which the wind turns with the sun and varies to the observer in the opposite direction.
Between Concepcion and Oopiap6, during the spring season of the year, the weather is usually fine and the winds generally vary between SSE. and WSW. They sometimes alternate with winds between NI^W. and west. In the summer the breezes are from south to SW., and are accompanied by fine and dry weather. In the fall the north wind is most frequent, but after a calm it frequently blows from KW. It is during the winter, from the end of May to September, that rain and northerly gales are most frequent; when the south wind sets in the weather becomes fine. Thunder and lightning are very rare.
It can be generally stated that there are two sets of winds on this coast; both are well defined, but are of unequal duration. The winds from the north and NE. are frequent in the winter, from the end of May to the middle of September. From September to the end of May, however, the southerly winds predominate, and they often blow with great violence. These winds sometimes blow from a little to the west- ward and sometimes from a little to the eastward of south.
During the three months of the bad season frequent calms and light and variable breezes from the west to SW. are experienced. These alternate with gales from the north, which cause heavy rains, not only on the coast, but also a considerable distance to seaward.
WINDS. 183
During the fine season, while the south winds prevail, the sky is gen- erally clear, and there is but little rain even in the summer; however, there are at times strong northerly winds, accompanied by heavy rains, that last for two or three days. These exceptions are more rare to the northward of Coquimbo than to the southward.
During this season of the year the south wind sets in about 11 a. m., sometimes later. It freshens rapidly, and often renders the anchoring of sailing vessels difficult. It is called the sea breeze, although it actually blows along the coast. It generally dies out toward sunset, though sometimes it lasts until midnight. At sea, between 25^ and 350 S., this breeze sometimes obliges vessels to take two reefs in their topsails. It is less strong than near the land, but it does not die out during the night. It will be observed that as the land is approached the breeze is stronger during the day and lighter during the night; or, when very near the land, that it falls calm during the night, then a light land breeze springs up from the eastward. This comes from the Cordil- lera, and only lasts a few hours. It is almost always accompanied by a clear sky. If during this breeze the sky becomes cloudy, it is a sure sign that the breeze at sea is very light or that it is calm. It is also an indication of rain. A cloudy sky in the winter is a sign of an approach- ing wind accompanied by rain.
The shifts of wind generally take place against the sun, as on the southern portion of the coast, the most violent coming from a i)oint between north and west. It is well, then, for vessels to seek shelter behind the rocks or land which make out to the westward. During the summer it is best to anchor near the land, so as not to be driven to sea by the squalls from the southward. In winter it is best to anchor farther out on account of the northerly winds.
In the region under discussion the approach of north winds is very well marked. The sky is overcast, and there is little or no wind, unless it may be from the eastward; the swell sets from the northward and the tide is stronger than usual; the distant land is remarkably distinct and elevated by refraction, and the barometer falls. All northerly winds are by no means gales, and sometimes a whole winter may pass without a northerly wind which merits that name; at other times they are of frequent occurrence. The northerly gales never last longer than one day and one night, and ordinarily not so long. They shift to the westward, with the weather still cloudy and with the strength of the wind undiminished, and moderate as it hauls to the southward. It is very difficult to fix the northern limit of these winds. It is certain, however, that they are much less dangerous at Coquimbo, although strong northerly winds and heavy seas have been known at Huasco and at Copiapo. The English ship Conway experienced a heavy north- erly gale in 25^ S. latitude and 90^ W. longitude.
At Valparaiso these winds do not set in until the middle of May, and they continne until September, decreasing continually in intensity. They have occurred, however, in April.
184 COAST OP CHILE.
The foregoing remarks apply to a belt extending from 180 to 240 miles to seaward.
Proceeding to the northward from Valparaiso the intensity of the rains diminishes, and the harvests depend upon ttie humidity of the year. The southerly winds, which predominate during nine months of the year, are dry and fatal to the cultivation exposed to their influence. When the year is unusually moist the grass is abundant and the cereals yield forty and even seventy fold, but when it is dry the cattle even have to be taken to the Cordillera. In certain localities, as in the vicinity of Valparaiso, the nightly dews moisten the ground and favor vegetation.
The bai'ometer in summer varies between 29.92 inches and 30.32 inches; in the fall between 29.53 inches and 30.04 inches; in the winter it falls as low as 29.14 inches. As in the preceding region, it falls with north and rises with south winds.
Currents. — The waters of the South Pacific ocean, in a belt of which the mean latitude is about 50^, run in an oblique direction KE. toward the west coast of South America; thence as a cold river along Ghiloe to the Galapagos islands, while another branch, separating opposite the gulf of Peiias, forms the Cape Horn current.
The northern branch of this current is called the *' Humboldt cur- rent, or the current of Peru." It runs to the NE. to about the latitude of the island of Mocha, and then continues to the northward.
This direction (NE.) drifts vessels toward the coast, and when they are but a short distance from the land they should take this current into account, as it has caused several shipwrecks. Its change of direction from the iN'E. to north takes place about 180 to 240 miles from the coast.
From the island of Mocha the current follows the trend of the coast; that is, a direction between north and NNE. Its direction varies a little with the wind; its diameter is about 120 miles abreast of Valparaiso, and it increases gradually. This current, aided by the wind, carries enormous masses of sand along the coast of Araucania and as far north as Valparaiso. This is deposited at all capes projecting to the westward and in all the bays and harbors penetrating to the eastward.
The temperature of the water in the Humboldt current is 39^ in 470 S. latitude, and this increases farther to the northward. In the latitude of Valparaiso it is 52°; in that of Coquimbo, 57^; of Cobija and of Arica, 64o. The observations of Dupetit-Thouars have proven, however, that these numbers are means, as the temperature of the current follows the variations of that of the surface. The velocity of this current varies greatly on the coast of Chile and Peru; it is gen- erally greater near the land than at sea. Between Valparaiso and Cobija it runs at the rate of 26 miles per day; 15 miles per day is about the average velocity. The current is sometimes altogether arrested and sometimes reversed. Lartigue, and afterwards Fitz-Roy, observed the current to run south in different latitudes after strong
CUBRENTS — ^TIDES — WEATHER. 1 86
northerly wind; but, according to Fitz-Roy, this does not prove any- thing definitely. The Enssian Admiral Litke observed no currents to the northward until north of Ooncepcion, and then very feeble, although he kept near the shore, the Avinds being light and variable from NE. to NW. During one day he had the current running to the southward. Between Cape Pillar and Valparaiso Admiral Fleuriot de Langle observed a NE. current in the spring, a WSW. current during tiie sum- mer, E. J N. during the fall, and WN W. during the winter. From this we conclude that the southerly current is rare, the northerly ones much more frequent, and that the latter run alternately to the eastward and westward of this point. The last-mentioned observer speaks of strong and frequent currents to the westward during the summer.
Tides. — To the northward of Chiloe the rise and fall of the tide is never more than 6 feet, the general limit being 4.9 feet. Is is not, how- ever, the same for the archipelago of Ohiloe and Chonos. When the flood tide sets in it runs around both the north and south end of Ohiloe at the same time. The former runs with great force through the Straits of Chacao into the Gulf of Ancud, where it produces violent eddies. After running around the Gulf of Reloncavi and around the archipelago of Calbuco its general course is south. During this time the otlier branch, in running to the northward, passes through the channel which separates the Guaitecas from Chiloe. These two tides meet in the lati- tude of the Desertores and Cbaulinec islands, and counteract each other. The ebb tide runs to the northward in the Gulf of Ancud and to the southward in the Gulf of Corcovado.
It will be readily understood that at certain points near the limit of the two floods there are very high tides. At the Carelmapu islands, opposite San Carlos de Ancud, the rise and fall of the spring tides amount to 10 feet; in the Straits of Chacao it is 14 feet; in the Cove of Oscuro, 22 feet, and at Huildad, 16 feet. If, in addition to this, the influence of the wind is considered, the irregularity of the tides on the east coast of Chiloe is not astonishing.
Weather. — Snowstorms are unknown on the seacoast; hailstorms are only of short duration, and the hailstones small. They occur mostly in the spring, and, contrary to the ordinary rule, during the'night. Hail- storms never occur with north winds, or at least not until the wind is on the point of changing to the west or southward of west.
Frost occurs frequently during the spring, but never on the coast. It is only observed in the interior of the mainland or on the large island of Chiloe.
Waterspouts are often seen along the coast of Chiloe and Valdivia when a calm sets in after a squall from the NW., and also when the wind is about to change to the west.
The geographical position of Chile causes the greatest variety of climate; rainy and stormy in the south, in the north it is subject to calms, the sky is clear, the country dry, with a great want of water.
186 COASt OF CHILfi.
Passages. — ^There are bat two ways to make passages on the coast of Chile. When going to the northward steer direct to the place, or as nearly so as is consistent with making use of the steady winds which prevail in the offing; and if bound to the southward, steer also direct to the place, if fortunate enough to have a wind which admits of it, but if not, stand out to sea by the wind, keeping every sail clean full, the object being to get through the adverse southerly winds as soon as pos- sible, and to reach a latitude from which the ship will be sure of reach- ing her port on a direct course. Every experienced seaman knows that in the regions of periodic winds no method is more inconsistent with quick passages than that of hugging the wind.
Ships bound southward from Peru during the Northers should be careful not to get to the southward of their port. Those standing in for the shore during the summer months, when about 100 miles from the coast, will often find the wind heading them, in which case they need not tack as the wind will haul to the westward on approaching the land.
Signals. — The following are the signals used on the coast of Chile by vessels requiring the services of a pilot, also those to be used by ves- sels in distress and requiring assistance.
Pilot signals. — By day. — A flag with a white border, flying from the masthead, or the signal PT of the international code.
By night — Burning a blue light every quarter of an hour, or show- ing a white light at short intervals, such light being shown alwve the upper works for the space of one minute each time.
Note. — Any shipmaster permitting any of the above signals to be shown, such signal not being intended as a pilot signal, or shall use other signals for this purpose, is liable to a penalty.
Distress signals. — By day. — A gun fired at intervals of one minute, or the signal N C of the international code.
In imminent danger: A checkered flag with a ball or shape either above or below it should be shown.
By night. — A gun fired at intervals of one minute, or a flare or flashes shown at short intervals, or the firing of signal rockets.
Note. — Any shipmaster permitting any one of these signals to be made other than for the purpose of calling for assistance in distress is liable to pay indemnification for all trouble, risk, and loss sustained in sending such assistance.
Port charges. — Hospital dues. — Ten cents per registered ton on aU vessels, loaded or in ballast, payable once in each calendar year.
Light dues. — Ten cents per registered ton, incurred by vessels dis- charging cargo, and payable on discharge of same. If only 25 tons or packages are discharged, the charge is 25 cents on each package or ton,
(H. O. Chart No. 1315.)
Gulf of Peiias. — See page 173.
Cape Raper. — Cape Elena is about 6 J miles NW. of cape Tres Montes, and cape Eaper, about the same distance NNW. of cape Elena, is
SAN ANDBES BAY — PORT SAN ESTEVAN. 187
higher than cape Tres Montes. The side toward the sea is barren and ends almost perpendicularly. The three sand beaches between these two capes can not be approached, owing to the constant heavy swell and breakers. The rock lying IJ miles to the northward of the cape is light gray, and stands out well from the dark background of the main- land. On the reef lying one mile to the westward of the rock the sea has been seen to break.
San Andres bay. — Gape Gallegos, 15 miles northward of cape Raper, is a bold promontory, barren to seaward, and rising abruptly from the water, and eastward of it is San Andres bay, containing no good place for large ships, but it has secure anchorage for small vessels in Christmas cove, which is not ^ mile across, but is sheltered from all winds except those from the northward. Though apparently much exposed to this quarter, the danger from such winds is more apparent than real, as they do not become very strong till they are some points to the westward of north, and much sea would not be raised until then.
Between Christmas cove and Cone inlet, at 2 miles farther east, seal- ers report a perfectly sheltered anchorage in 4f fathoms, suitable for vessels of less than 300 tons, opposite the islands fronting Cone inlet.
Cone inlet extends in a southeasterly direction about 3 miles to the foot of a remarkable cone 1,300 feet high. It is quite sheltered, and not a bad stopping place for a steamer inside the islet in its entrance with her stern secured to the shore, but there is no room to swing; for a sailing vessel it is so narrow as to be difficult of access and still more difficult to quit. Even with a NW. wind no swell penetrates the interior of the inlet, and there is a natural dock at the inner part on the NE. side. On the northern side of San Andres bay, at the head of a deep bight, there is a large basin named Useless cove, being unfit for any kind of craft.
Pringle point, at 5 miles NNE. from cape Gallegos, forms the north side of San Andres bay, and between it and Eescue point, 18 miles to the KE., the land is considerably lower. There may be anchorage in Stewart bay, at 6 miles ENE. of Pringle point, but it was not examined.
Cliff cove, locally known as Barranco cove, forms an excellent port, capable of sheltering a large number of vessels in 4| to 20 fathoms, mud bottom.
OflF the southern entrance point is a small islet, with rocks upon which the sea always breaks, extending 200 yards from it.
Port San Estevan, 20 miles NE. from Pringle point, has very good anchorage in 10 fathoms water under Eescue point. Fresh water may be easily obtained in the stream at the head of the inlet, or from runs near the anchorage. Dark hill, 2,150 feet above the sea, at about 5 miles east of Eescue point, is a good object for recognizing this port. There is no hidden danger, provided the rocks at the point have a berth of 200 yards given them. A vessel should anchor close to the west shore, under shelter of the reef oif Eescue point.
Cat cove, about 2 miles east of port San Estevan, is said to form a
188 COAST OF CHILE.
good harbor. Enteriug this cove, pass south of all the islands at the entrance.
TJaboma ialanclii, — There is fairly sheltered anchorage in 5 to 6 fath- oms, sand, good holding ground, off the northeastern one of these islands.
Hellyer rocks are a cluster of outlying dangers scarcely above water, on which the sea breaks, lying almost north of Rescue point and 6 miles from the nearest land, Duende island.
Cape Taitao is 25 miles north of Port Estevan, the intervening coast being broken and rugged. The cape is one of the most remarkable promontories on this coast; it makes like a large island, pointed at the summit; is nearly 3,000 feet high, rugged, barren, and steep, and has several rocks above water around it; none, however, more than one mile offshore.
Anna Pink bay. — About 5 miles eastward round cape Taitao is An na Pink bay, within a cove of which one of Lord Anson's squadron, the Anna Pinky took refuge from westerly gales. She anchored under Inch- emo island, but drove from thence across the bay, and after slipping or cutting her cables brought up in Port Refuge, in the SE. part of the bay, where she lay for some time in security refitting.
Probably the Amia PinJc did not in the first instance go near enough to Inchemo island, for there is good holding ground in 15 or 20 fathoms on its east side, with Penguin islet bearing N. 20° E. (North mag.) and highest part of Inchemo island S. 68o W. (S. 48^ W. mag.).
On Inchemo island a number of goats were found.
Canaveral cove, on the south side of entrance to Port Refuge, though small, is very convenient for refitting or for executing any repairs.
Patch cove, to the SW. of Oailaveral cove, is small and unfit for vessels exceeding 200 tons.
About 6 miles N. 68o E. (N. 48^ E. mag.) of Inchemo are the Inchin or San Fernando islands, and next to them, to the northward, are the Tenquehuen, Menchuan, and Puyo islands, among which, no doubt, there are many good anchorages and abundance of fresh water, wood, wild herbs, and fish usually found on these coasts. The western extremity of Menchuan island is low, and, having several rocks near it, a good berth should be allowed in passing.
The archipelago of Chonos and Quaitecas consists of a multi- tude of islands extending from Wickham, or Pulluche channel, on the south, which is the northern boundary of the peninsula of Taitao, to the Gulf of Oorcovado on the north. These islands, lying in groups of from twenty to fifty, are of various forms and sizes, some having a circumference of 70 miles, others of only a few yards. The largest is Magdalena. It contains mountains and volcanoes covered with snow. Melchor, Traiguen, and Rivero are among the largest of the islands. The three principal channels, which run nearly east and west, are Kinualaca channel, to the north of Melchor island; Darwin channel, to the northward of Rivero and Traiguen islands; and Wickham, or
CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO — WINDS. 189
PuUuche channel, the southern boundary of the archipelago. These connect with the Moraleda channel on the eastern side of the archi- pelago, which runs nearly north and south, and with the channels Errazuriz and Costa, which are to the westward and eastward of Trai- guen island. On the coast of Taitao, as also throughout the archi- pelago, there are numerous bays and coves where vessels of heavy .tonnage can find refuge. The depth of water varies, but in general the water is deep well up to the land. The general aspect of the islands, which seem to rise suddenly out of the water, is abrupt, moun- tainous, and rugged. To the south some resemble a sugar loaf; to the north they are in the form of plateaus or elevated table-lands. The peaks of Ouptana, 2,950 feet, are constantly covered with snow, and in their vicinity are mineral waters.
Population. — There is no fixed population. During the spring and summer the woodcutters visit these islands to cut wood and hunt the seal. They discovered in the caves which are not reached by the high tides large deposits of guano, which is now being exported.
Climate. — The climate is severe, especially in the winter; the changes in the temperature are very abrupt; showers mixed with hail, accom- panied by furious squalls, occur frequently, as do also heavy snow- storms, which render the navigation of the narrow channels dangerous. Earthquakes are rare. In the summer there are some beautiful days, and the sun even dries up the brooks, causing a want of fresh water; but this is rare.
It is estimated that from 156 to 192 inches of rain fall annually. On an average day it is rare to see the horizon farther than 5 miles, the atmosphere is so thick and saturated. The climate is not unhealthy; local diseases are rare, and epidemics unknown.
Winds. — ^During the summer and spring the winds from the NE. and the SB. quadrants are very rare, the winds generally blowing from the NNW., WSW., and south. The winds generally die out during the evening, especially those from the north and south; the winds from the SW., on the contrary, freshen, or at least keep their force, in the evening. The shifts to the SW. generally take place about sunset. During the morning the NW. winds predominate. Generally speak- ing, the winds from the NNW., WSW., and south are about equally divided. Calms are also as common during the morning and at noon as any of these winds; during the evening they are about twice as frequent; in other words, the calms occur one day out of six in the forenoon, one day out of seven during the day, and one day out of three during the evening.
The NW. and the SW. winds deposit all the evaporation of the Pacific ocean on the cordillera, which causes the frequent rains. In the estuaries, as that of the Eio Aysen, it rains less, though 11 inches has fallen there during one night. The calms and the NE. or NW. winds bring the heaviest rains. There are only passing showers with
190 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO.
the west or SW. winds, but it invariably rains in torrents daring SE. winds.
Vessels at anchor must keep a good lookout for the shifts from 'SW. toSW.
Sometimes the wiud after shifting suddenly from NW. to west returns to NW., as it does more to the northward, when it blows with more violence than before; in fact, there are two gales following close to each other.
During the winter the gales are accompanied by thunderstorms, and the traces of the passage of the lightning are frequent on the declivities of the mountains.
Kelp. — In the different channels of the Chonos archipelago the dangers are generally marked by kelp, and in the quiet bays it will frequently be found growing in deep water, where the bottom is rocky. A good lookout should be kept from aloft, as strong currents frequently draw the kelp under water.
Tides."— In the channels which have an east and west direction the flood sets to the eastward and ebb to the westward. In those having a north and south direction the flood generally sets to the northward and ebb to the southward.
Outside this archipelago the currents are weak; inside they attain great velocity, which varies much with the direction of the wind, the age of the moon, and the tidal hour.
Gheneral instructions. — The following general instructions will be an assistance in the navigation of the channels of the archipelago:
1. Every dangerous submarine rock is marked by seaweed, or is visible from aloft; strong currents, however, submerge the seaweed.
2. The seaweed, in smooth bays, commences generally in 7 fathoms of water where the bottom is of large rocks, and in 3 fathoms where the bottom is of small stones or pebbles; it does not grow on sandy or shell bottom, or on leeward points which are washed by a heavy sea.
3. In the channels transverse to the coast the flood tide runs to the eastward, the ebb to the westward, and those parallel to the coast trending to the northward and southward; the flood in general runs to the north and the ebb to the south. In the large channels border- ing the Cordillera the tides increase in velocity as the cordillera is approached.
4. It is recommended to the navigator coming from seaward to anchor or tie up as soon as possible after entering the channel, pre- ferring the northern shore, and send boats to seek pilots acquainted with the channels. These are readily found during the summer. Too much confidence should not, however, be placed in them; they are generally unacquainted with the soundings, and are only useful in indicating the channel. With experienced lookouts and the usual precautions there is much less risk in this navigation than is usually supposed.
WICKHAM CHANNEL — DARWIN CHANNEL. 191
KoTE. — The following descriptions of the various ports and waters of the Ohonos archipelago and the island of Chiloe are taken, for the most part, from old accounts and surveys, and should not be implicitly relied upon.
Wickham or FuUuche channeL — This arm of the sea separates the peninsula of Taitao from the Ohonos archipelago, and is the south- ernmost entrance to the archipelago. It opens to the eastward of the Bay of Anna Pink, between Inchemo and the Skyring islands on the south and the Inchin and Tenquehuen islands on the north. It con- nects with the several channels running to the northward through the Archipelago.
The Wickham entrance is shown distinctly on the chart. After pass- ing the islands Black and Bister, which leave to starboard, steer for Clemente island, bear toward it and steer to the southward and east- ward. On arriving to the east of Clemente island be careful not to take the Williams channel, which runs to the NE. and has a group of islands at its entrance. Farther on, after passing between the island of Guer- rero and the small island of Eicardo, is the entrance of the Pulluche channel. After doubling a rock, on the summit of which are several dead trees, an anchorage will be found from whence pilots can be sought. Farther within the channel the tides run with considerable velocity; with a favorable current it is desirable to keep in mid-channel.
After passing the Utarupa channel and the SW. point of Humos island, the Pulluche takes the name of Ohacabuco channel, which it keeps to the Costa channel. .«»
Harchy bay is on the north shore of the Chacabuco channel, near its intersection with the Errazuriz channel, at the SE. end of Humos island. The anchorage is exposed to SW. winds, but is somewhat pro- tected by a line of shoals having on them from 1^ to 4J fathoms of water. The two small islets called Observatory cays are a part of these. It is better to anchor in the western part of the cove in 10 fath- oms, about the same distance from the shore. Wood and water can be obtained here.
ShoaL — The local pilots report a shoal, consisting of bowlders, awash at low water spring tides, in the southern part of Errazuriz channel, between Humos and Bojas islands.
Analao islet, 130 feet high, in the middle of Darwin bay, off the entrance to Darwin channel, is flat topped and steep.
Danvin channel is considered the best passage, as it is less tortuous than the others, and has a good anchorage at each end, viz, Yallenar road outside and Port Lagunas inside. Neither from out nor in can the channel be mistaken; from outside no great error can be made in the distance from cape Tres Montes, and as the land is closed Vallenar and Analao islands will be distinguished, and the entrance itself shows clear and bold, with high rocky sides, but without rocks or islets.
Port 7ates. — On the south side of Darwin channel, and about 3
192 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO.
miles east of Isabel point, is the entrance to William channel, which is about i mile wide and trends soath for 3 miles to Port Yates, where anchorage may be had in 12 or 14 fathoms, sandy bottom.
Tides. — In Darwin channel the flood tide is east and the ebb, the west-going stream, runs about 1^ miles an hour at springs; the strong- est tide and overfalls are felt in that part of the channel between Marcacci island and Macchia Lunga point, where at times it runs 3^ miles an hour.
It is high water, full and change, in Port Yates at 38m.; springs rise 10 feet.
Directions. — Proceeding to the eastward, the channel trends in a SE. by E. direction for about 8 miles, whence it turns a little to the northward. A white rocky islet (10 feet high ) will then be seen standing well out in the channel. This islet must be left on the starboard hand. The channel then turns to the ENE. for about 8 miles, and a deep indentation, with several islets in it and leading north, will be opened. This must be passed, and the coast will now trend about ESE. J E. until another large island is passed, and then the principal channel northward will be opened, the distance from the entrance being about 30 miles.
Proceeding through Darwin channel to the westward, keep the southern shore aboard till the channel seems trending to the WSW., when cross to the north shore, and the white islet will show up nearly in mid-channel. Leaving this on the port hand and keeping to the westward, the swell from the Sea will soon be felt.
Proceeding northward from the eastern end of the channel there are several anchorages known to the sealers and whalers, who frequently run in for shelter. The whole space has not been thoroughly surveyed, and the islands are so numerous that it is impossible to give such descriptions as would guide to the principal anchorages.
Port Italiano is an anchorage on the northern shore of Darwin channel, 15 miles eastward of Alfred point. The port is formed by Schiaffino islets, about 40 feet high, which shelter the anchorage from the prevailing westerly winds; at the same time there are none of the violent squalls so common in the neighborhood.
The anchorage is in from 27 to 33 fathoms, over a mud bottom, and is the only anchorage between Port Yates and Port Lagunas.
Erraziiriz channel. — There is temporary anchorage in 15 fathoms, rocky bottom, at 600 yards southward of Eaimapu islets.
Zilefantes inlet. — Port Traiguen, at the eastern entrance to Aldunate (Tuahuencayec) channel, is said to form a well-sheltered and spacious anchorage in 8 fathoms, sand, suitable for all class of vessels. When approaching from the southward, the best anchorage will be found immediately the remarkable cascade on Sisquelan peninsula has been passed, and opposite to a sandy beach.
Elefantes gulf. — Between Iclai inlet and Garrao point the anchor
COSTA CHANNEL — GUAMBLJN ISLAND. 193
may be dropped iu 4 to 10 fathoms, when within a distance of one mile fiom the land.
Costa channeL — ^A rocky shelf, with 18 feet water over it and marked by kelp, lies in the northern part of Costa channel, in lat itnde 45^ 24J' S., longitude 73o 393' W- (approximate). Another rock, 22 yards in diameter, with 8 feet over it, lies in latitude 45° 40' S., longitude 73° 37^' W. (approximate).
Moraleda Channel rock. —A dangerous rock, with 13 feet over it, lies about midway between Genova point and Barba island; it is not marked by k^lp.
Fort Lagonas, on the west side of the south entrance to Moraleda channel, is described as good, spacious, and well sheltered, and adapted for large vessels. The Veitor Fisani anchored in 12 fathoms, sand and shell. No inhabitants were seen, but good water and wood for steam- ing purposes were obtained. Fish are plentiful. When bound for Port Lagunas through Darwin channel vessels should pass eastward of Barba, Pescetto, and Santa Maria islands. A large white beacon is erected on the last-named island as a guide to the port.
Tide& — It is high water, full and change, in Port Lagunas at Ih. 10m.; springs rise 7 feet.
Vallenar road, eastward of Yallenar islands, on the north side o^ Darwin bay, is pointed out by the mountain of Isquiliac, 3,200 feet high, which is rugged and triple peaked. It is an excellent roadstead, easy of access and egress. The best anchorage is iu about 12 fathoms, near the observation spot, a small islet lying off the southeast extreme of Three Finger island.
Angamos rock consists of an isolated rocky patch, having its great- est length in a !N1TW.-SSE. direction, with a least depth found on it of 9 feet of water. The depth increases more rapidly on the eastern side of the rock than on its western side. The rock lies on the follow- ing bearings:
The most easterly of the Three Finger islets, K. 60^ W. (N. SO'^ W. mag.); eastern extreme of Vallenar island, S. 31° W. (S. 11° W. mag.) ; the most westerly of the Isquiliac islets, S. 14° B. (S. 34° E. mag.).
A buoy has been placed to mark this danger, which is not indicated by the presence of kelp. Tbe buoy is not to be depended upon.
Tides. — It is- high water, full and change, in Vallenar road at 18m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Onamblin, or Socorro island, about 30 miles northwestward of the Yallenar islands, has good anchorage under the eastern side. It is 9^ miles long, from 400 to 700 feet iu height, comparatively level, and thickly wooded. Generally its shores are sloping and covered with verdure. There are some remarkable cliffy breaks, which show dis- tinctly against the dark woodland.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at GuambUn island at 12h.
J943— jS^o. 89 ^13
194 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO.
Advertnre bay, to the eastward of Ouainblin island, is about 35 imileB across the entrance. It is encumbered by dangerous outlying rocks, and offers no good anchorage that is easily accessible. Paz and Liebre islands, in the middle of the bay, lying 8 miles offshore, are remarkable from their conical form, but they afford no shelter.
Narborough oh Ipun island, 15 miles FE. of Guamblin island, resembles it in character, and differs totally from the neighboring islands, which are high, rugged, and generally barren to seaward, while Guamblin and Narborough are comparatively low, level, and fertile. An abundance of vegetables and live stock might be raised on them for the supply of shipping. They are both easy to approach or leave, and the rocks which lie around their more exposed points are all distin- guished by the sea always breaking on them, and may, therefore, be easily avoided.
Scotch'well harbor, at the SE. part of Karborough island, is not only a valuable place of refuge, but a secure and agreeable place for wooding, watering, or refitting. This harbor should be approached from the northward. Although the passage south of it was examined and appeared to have no hidden dangers, it is narrow, and there may be undiscovered rocks. In a bay just north of Scotch well harbor there is good anchorage in 12 to 16 fathoms, over clay and sand. A consid- erable number of seals were seen both on Karborough and Guamblin islands.
Ninualaca channel is one of the principal ones leading into the Archipelago from seaward. It opens between the islands James and Melchor. On James island are three peaks called Sullivan, 4,167 feet high. The peaks can be seen a long distance. There is a small inlet at their foot on the south side.
Port Concha is to the westward of the channel, near the open sea. It is formed to the westward by a small detached island and to the northwest by a contracted channel. This port is narrow for ships, and in its northern part there is but little water j it terminates in a beach of white sand and low, swampy country. The tide is very strong around the island.
After leaving Port Concha there is no anchorage for a considerable distance on the north coast of the Kinualaca channel. Six miles from the entrance of Ninualaca channel is an island which divides it into two equal parts. It stops the sea, but increases the current on either side. The island is clean, there being over 50 fathoms of water within 250 yards of it. The same is the case near the land on the sides of the. channel. The island must not be approached nearer, however, as a shoal surrounds it which is covered by only 2 to 3 fathoms of water. Opposite this, on the north side of the channel, is a spacious bay, in which the water is too deep for anchorage. Boats only can land in the small inlets.
Gatos inlet is half way between the ocean and Moraleda channel.
CISNES ESTUART — ^PORT MELINKA. 195
This is the first anchorage on the north coast of Ninnalaca channel. Three miles before reaching this, opposite a white spot on the north coast, there is a rock in the center of the channel, which is only covered during very high tides. There is very little kelp on it; vessels can i)ass safely within 250 yards of it; at that distance there are 12 fathoms of water.
Cisnes estuary is ^ mile to the eastward of Gates inlet. There is a good anchorage, in 12 to 15 fathoms of water, on the ]SW. side of its entrance about 250 yards from the land, but it is not well to get too near the visible reef. On entering this estuary, which is 5 miles long, hug the eastern point, where there is 8 or 9 fathoms of water, which depth continues to its end; near the reef the depth is much less.
Quaitecas islands. — ^The cluster of islands between Karborough or Ypun island and the Guaitecas islands offer no anchorages so easy of access to a stranger as those previously mentioned. Coves fit for small craft abound, but to notice each of them would tend to confuse the reader. The four northern isles of this cluster are high, about 6 miles in length each, are separated by nearly equal spaces, and preserve a remarkable parallelism in an east and west direction.
Port Lo^7 is on the north side of the northern and largest of the Guaitecas islands, and is one of the best harbors on the coast, in which a number of large ships might lie conveniently in from 7 to 13 fathoms.
Approaching Port Low from the westward, the Guaitecas islands will appear in a hummocky ridge. At the KE. point there is a remark- able flat-topped island, and the 8W. part diminishes into low land. When seen from a considerable distance the flat-topped island and the hummocky ridge are still conspicuous. This hummocky ridge appears to be the middle of a group of islands. On the left, looking to the SE., there is a high, single-knobbed hill inland, which looks as if quite insulated; and as far again to the left is the flat-topped island mentioned above, beyond which there appears to be an opening; the low land to the westward makes like many islands.
On nearing the port a good berth must be given to the numerous rocks that lie along the north and KW. shores of the Guaitecas islands, and allowances made for the stream of tide which is felt off the Guaca- nec islands, and causes a race off Ghayalime point. The farthest out- lying rock is to be guarded against in approaching the port from the southwestward; but the sea always breaks on it, and as a precaution against being drifted too near in light winds, it is advisable to keep to the northward of a line drawn N. 70° W. (West mag.) from the north point of Guacanec island.
Supplies. — Port Low furnishes the usual supples; water of excellent quality, wood, fish, shellfish, wild herbs, and a few potatoes.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Port Low at 40m. ; springs rise 7 feet.
Port Melinka, so called by the Chilean Government, but Puerto
196 CHONOB ABCHIFBLAGO.
Arena by the sealers, is on the SE. side of Guaiteea Grande island, and runs up close to Port Low. There is a small establishment for sealing, also for cutting railway sleepers. The north entrance lies between the SE. point of Ascunsion island and Westhof island, on a course of about S. 20^ W. (South mag.) until a few houses on the north side of the bay come in sight, when haul up for them and anchor in from 15 to 7 fathoms, stony bottom, with Meliuka i>oiut bearing !N^. 76<^ E. (N. 560 E. mag.) The holding ground is said to be better farther out iu 20 ^thorns. The anchorage in the weatern part of the harbor is preferable; the depth is 16 fathoms, over a bottom of sand and mud; the space is, however, somewhat limited. The x>ort is completely shel- tered.
Port BaUena. — On leaving Melinka to enter the Moraleda channel the first anchorage is Port Ballena. This port, on the island of Mul- chey, is an excellent harbor, sheltered from all winds, and the sea never rises iu it. Its entrance is free from danger, all the rocks being visible; the shore can be passed within 100 yards. Oysters are found here.
Port Nassau. — On the western shore, under the SE. point of Fran- cisco island, protected to the southward and to the westward by small islands, is Port l^assau, with a depth of 1^ to 31 fathoms on a sandy bottom. The bottom of the western portion of the anchorage is rock.
Port Frances. — Passing outside of Gayo Blanco and the group of islets extending from it to t)ie southward and westward. Port Frances, or Espineira, lies west, the best anchorage being as near as the sound- ings will admit to Transito island. A good anchorage is about ^ mile from the island, in about 15 fathoms, bottom mud, outside the small island, which here protects the anchorage to the northwaord. Inside the entrance, and a little to the southward of mid-channel, is Janequeo rock, usually submerged. It lies about J mile from the NE. point of the island, which forms the southern protection of the anchorage. By keeping well over to the northern .side, near the islet, the rock is avoided.
Port Tangbac or Americano. — To the southward of the entrance to Mnualaca channel, with its oi)ening on the southern end of the island of Tangbac, is Port Tangbac or Americano. Passing to the southward of the islets off the southeastern point of the island, large vessels should anchor at the foot of the Americano mountain in from 15 to 19 fieithoms of water, bottom sand; on the opposite side of the channel the bottom is rock. There is anchorage here for but two or three vessels, as the bank is very steep. Farther in there is a well-protected basin, called La Darseua, with from 6 to 8 fathoms of water, but across its entrance there is but 15 feet. There are some apple trees here, and fish and shellfish are abundant.
Port Perez lies in the ISTW. angle of a spacious bay comprised between the northern i)art of the estuary Aysen and the five islets called Five Brothers The anchorage is in from 20 to 30 fathoms,
PORT CHACABUCO — CHILOE ISLAND. 197
sandy bottom. Yessels slioald moor upon indications of bad weather, us the anchorage is exposed to strong winds, though protected from the sea.
Port Chacabuco, at the eastern end of Aysen estaary, is perfectly sheltered, but is subject to heavy squalls from the mountain gorges.
Traigaen island is situated between Darwin and Pulluche channels, and forms the western side of Costa channel. It is one of the largest islands of the archipelago. A rocky shelf lies in the northern part of Costa channel off the island.
There are numerous other islands, channels, anchorages, etc., south of Traiguen island; they are of no special importance to navigators.
Quafo or Nomans island, westward of the Guaitecas islands, dis- tant about 20 miles, and the same distance southwestward of Chiloe island, is without a harbor, except for boats; the highest part. Weather point, or the KW. head, is 800 feet above the sea. Beefs extend 3 miles seaward to the north and west. The island is comi)osed of indurated clay (tosea), which may be cut with a knife like chocolate. It is low in the middle and high again at the east extremity, is well wooded and formerly had many sheep on it. Bmall and Sheep coves are two laud- ing places on its eastern shore.
Shoal. — ^Local pilots report a shoal, over which the sea breaks, about midway between the SB. point of Guafo island and Quilan island.
Chiloe island. — This large and fertile island (also called Grande island), does not jiresent to the eye the wild and rugged features which mark the great islands along the western coast of Patagonia, and up to the Chonos archipelago. Lower land, softer outline, and continued forest of the thickest description characterize Chiloe island, but the coast of the mainland opposite, including the cordillera, is as steep and Tugged as that to the southward, and in height it exceeds them considerably, though more thickly wooded. In Chiloe island no land exceeds 3,000 feet in ii eight, while its average elevation is not above 500 feet. The adjacent island of San Pedro, off its SE. end, rises to 3,200 feet.
' Chiloe island, with the archipelago, of which it fbrms the principal part, and the smaller islands in the Gulf of Ancud, are divided from the continent to the eastward by Corcovado and Ancud gulfs. The island extends about 100 miles north and south, and its greatest breadth east and west is 38 miles. The northern extremity of the island is separated from the mainland by Chacao narrows. The whole island is clothed with wood, durable, and affording excellent timber, which is largely exported. Ancud, at the north end of the island, is the capital of the province, and it is the only place deserving the name of "town^ in the province.
Aiiiong the numerous islands between Chiloe and the main, and along the eastern coast of Chiloe island, except at its southern end, there are many excellent harbors, where supplies of provisions may be found.
198 CHILOE ISLAND.
Oysters, poaltry, and an abundance of good x>otatoe8 can be obtained cheap at the small villages, but since a regular packet and trade has been established at San Oarlos such supplies are little, if any, cheaper than at Valparaiso.
General remarks on the route inside of Chiloe. — ^The passage of the frigate Numancia has proved that the route inside of Chiloe is x)er- iectly practicable. It should not, however, be attempted, except with the object of avoiding violent north winds.
The inhabitants of Ohiloe and the islands in its vicinity have but two occupations, woodcutting and fishing. Woodcutting is the usual occupation of the men, and fishing that of the women and children.
As the tide rises and falls some 10 feet, it leaves large tracks of beach and banks uncovered, which abound with masses of shellfish; placing these in reservoirs washed by the tide, they are kept for winter pro- vision. The curanto, a dish peculiar to this island, is made of them.
The quantity of shellfish is diminishing around the inhabited islands.
Caution. — Great care is necessary when navigating between Chiloe island and the mainland, and reliance should not be placed on the charts, as the locality has not been surveyed.
Pilotage. — The price of pilotage does not vary with the distance. For a vessel drawing 6 feet or less, $40; from 6 to 10 feet> $50; from 10 to 15 feet, $70; from 15 to 20 feet, $90; from 20 to 23 feet, $110; 23 feet and over, $130. (1871.)
Directions. — With strong northerly winds, a vessel having rounded cape Tres Montes, and intending to pass inside Chiloe island, should steer a course to pass outside Guamblin island, and then for Guafo island, which latter should be closed to within 5 miles before keeping away into the chamiel. If this be not done she will be liable to be set down by the strong tides (which at times are said to run from 3 to 4 knots between Guafo and the Guaitecas islands) on to the dangerous lee shore of the latter group; whereas, by keeping well under the southern shore of Chiloe island, she can haul close round for port San Pedro after passing Canoitad rocks.
Port San Pedro. — San Pedro island, off the SE. end of Chiloe island, is the highest land in the archipelago, pyramidal shaped and wooded to the summit. It is separated from Chiloe island by Port San Pedro on the north and by Guamlad passage on the west. Port San Pedro is a small but secure harbor, which may be known by a white rock lying near the NE. point of entrance. When entering or leaving, if the tide be low, care should be taken to avoid the 3-fathom bank extending two-thirds across the entrance from the south shore.
Leading mark. — A promontory on the north shore of the harbor, in line with the next point to the westward of it, bearing N. 81^ W. (S. 80^ W. mag.), leads between White rock and the shoal off the south side of the harbor.
Anchorage. — The best anchorage is off a sandy beach on the north
CANOITAD ROCKS — CAPE QUILAN. 199
shore, nearly one mile west of White rock, in 7 to 10 fathoms, sand, with the south point of entrance bearing S. 31° E. (S. 50° B. mag.), White rock bearing N. 81o E. (N. 62^ E. mag.) and the leading mark on.
Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, at Port San Pedro at 30m. ; springs rise 9 feet.
Cudaguapiand Canoitad rocks. — Off the soathern shores of Chiloe island there are many outlying rocks, and it is therefore a coast to be avoided. Abreast of Olleta point, and to the southward of San Pedro island, are the Gudagnapi and Canoitad rocks. The latter, about 40 feet high, are distant 4J miles from the nearest part of Chiloe island, and as the tide sets toward them they are dangerous in the night or during calms. The sea will generally be seen breaking on them from a distance of 7 or 8 miles.
Bound northward from Port San Pedro, a vessel should keep out 9 or 10 miles N. 87o E. (S. 6S^ B. mag.) before hauling to the northward, as Laitec shoal, with only 2| fathoms water on it, extends from 3 to 4 miles SE. from Laitec island.
Great caution must be used when rounding Centinela point and the dangers off it. Vessels may pass between Chaulinec and Quehui islands, and there is anchorage southward of the latter island. Pass westward of Quenac island, giving its SW. point, off which there is a kelp patch with 3 fathoms in it, a berth of at least J mile, then steer to pass to the eastward of Idenna island and between Linlin island and the shoal patches with IJ and 2 fathoms nearly midway between Linlin and Meulin islands ; from thence steer for Tenaun point, southward of which is another anchorage close off a small village with a church.
Leaving Tenaun point, the passage west of Chauquis islands can be taken, and thence all is clear till Chacao narrows are entered. If it be deemed desirable to anchor in port Huite, the passage inside Caucahue island is deep and clear, and excellent anchorage will be found inside the port. There is also anchorage southeastward of Tres Cruces pointy the NE. extremity of Chiloe island.
The passage above given is safe for any sized vessel, and the advan- tage it possesses over the wider one eastward is that much of the strength of a northerly wind is avoided by keeping so much under the lee of the islands, as well as a disagreeable chopping sea which gets up in the wider part.
Quilan island, off the south of Chiloe, has a long hill at either end. The roadstead to the eastward of the island is unsafe. The south coast of Chiloe, being, as before mentioned, full of rocks, must be avoided and passed at distances varying from 4 to 8 miles. There are many submarine rocks around the island Yencouma, and to the eastward of the southern extremity of Quilan the sea breaks over them with great violence. San Pedro and Quilan islands are not inhabited.
Cape Quilan, the SW. point of Chiloe, is wooded. In its vicinity are cliffs of a light-yellowish color, about 300 feet high. Although
200 CHILOE ISLAND.
theie are many trees, the adjoining land is less wooded than the east- ern and more sheltered parts of the island. The pro€le of the land is rounded, without rapid descents, and lies very often horizontally; it is an undulating country formed of hills and valleys. The cliffs at the edge of the sea are irregular, and do not extend very far. Prom cape Quilan to Pirutil head, 34 miles north, the coast maintains the same aspect. Between these there is no anchorage of any kind; there is hardly a x)lace sufficiently sheltered for landing a whaleboat.
Cucao bay, 5 miles northward of Pirutil head, is bounded by a low beach, always lashed by a heavy surf. Cucao heights are the highest land in the island,; they are wooded to their summits, and are from 2,000 to 3,00C feet high.
Cape Matalqui, about 34 miles northward of Pirutil head, has a remarkable appearance from 8e«award; the heights over it rise about 2,650 feet, and make in three summits; or, from the south westward, as two paps, forming an excellent mark. Off all this coast, from cape Quilan northward, there are no outlying or hidden dangers.
Sealers state that there is a small cove with good landing at all times, eastward of Matalqui islets, 3 miles l!JJ". 65^ E. (N. 46^ E. mag.) of the point of the same name.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, off cape Matalqui at 12h.; springr> rise G feet.
Appearance of land. — From cape Matalqui, about 15 miles north- ward, is Cocotue head; between them is Chepu inlet, behind which low land alone is visible, so that the Cocotue heights, elevated about 1,000 feet, and the Matalqui paps appear as islands from seaward.
Bay of Cocotiie. — The heights which end in Oocottie head give the name to a bay to the northward, between them and the peninsula of Lacui. This bay is dangerous and always exposed to the prevailing winds; in its center are two groups of islands and sunken rocks, while its shores north and south are rugged and full of visible and hidden dangers.
The east coast of the bay is low, foul, and sandy, and backed by low hills, at the foot of which are swamps and small la.goons. It offers no shelter to vessels, though at certain seasons of the year, during calms, some of the small coves to the north and south can be used by fishing boats.
The swell from NW. causes a slight current, which sets toward the shore, and which might become dangerous to vessels near the shore during calms or in light winds.
North shore. — Lacui peninsula. — Between Cocotue and Cauca- gaupi heads a low isthmus joins Lacui peninsula to the rest of Chiloe island. This part of Chiloe has been thought to have some resemblance to the Isle of Wight. Caucaguapi head, the west extreme of Lacui peninsula, cape Guabun, at 3 miles farther north, and Huechucucui head, the NW. extreme of the peninsula, are bold, cliffy promontories;
GUAPACHO SHOAL — CORONA HEAD. 201
the latter is a high, steep, and barren bluff. The above three head- lands are the first seen when making the land near the port of San Carlos.
Eastward of Huechncueni head is the bay of the same name, in which the depths are ft*om 7 to 11 fathoms, decreasing to 4 fathoms near Pedehuin point. Between this latter point and the head is Qnilquiab bight, affording wood and water, also landing in moderate weather.
Guapacho shoaL — In the NE. part of Iluechucucui bay is Guapa- cho shoal, a circular extent of rocky reefs J mile in diameter, whose center is 3 miles N. 80^ E. (N. 62o E. mag.) of Huechucucui head and IJ miles S. 87o W. (S. 69o W. mag.) of Guapacho point. This reef must be avoided, especially during the night, as the land back of it is low and can not be distinguished.
Caution. — The tide rips are very strong oft' the end of the shoal, and a ship, unless she be very carefully handled and well under command, is liable to sheer about in a manner that becomes dangerous with a strong NW. wind; whereas by giving the point a berth of 1 or IJ miles this will be avoided.
Osorio rock is N. 69^ W. (N. 87° W. mag.) of Guapacho point, dis- tant 1,1S0 yards from the point, with 2^ fathoms of water over it; between it and Guapacho shoal the deptli varies from 6 to 10 fathoms; between it and Guapacho point the depth is but 6 fathoms. It should be avoided by sailing vessels going out of Ancud or Chacao channel with light winds, as the current may set in the direction of the rock at the rate of 3 to 4 miles per hour, according to the state of the sea.
Guapacho point is a light-yellow, rounded cliff, barren on top and broken toward the sea. The low west extremity of Guapacho is some- times called Tenui; it probably advances -farther to seaward than it formerly did. Vessels passing must take into account the tides, as they run very strong in this vicinity, and should give Guapacho point a berth of IJ miles.
Corona head is 1^ miles from Gilapacho point; the coast between is rocky and rises in perpendicular cliffs. Rocks extend 200 yards sea- ward from the head, with from 16 to 20 fathoms close to them. There is a signal station on the head, from which messages are transmitted to Ancud. Ingles bay, southward of Corona head, is the quarantine ground.
Light. — ^A fixed white light, varied every two minutes by a flash, is exhibited from the lighthouse on Corona head. From the lighthouse Huechucucui head, seen over Guapacho point, bears N. 83° W. (S. 79° W. mag.). The light is elevated 224 feet above high water, and is visible in clear weather from a distance of about 12 miles. The light- tower is 32 feet high, circular, and painted white.
Caution. — The mariner will observe that the above bearing, N. 83^ W. (S. 790 W. mag.), of Huechucucui head from the light passes to the
202 CHILOE ISLAND.
southward of Guapaclio point. Vessels, therefore, approaching Port San Carlos from the southward, after rounding Huechucucui head, at least a mile off, should steer N. 63^ E. (N. 45^ E. mag.) to avoid Osorio rock and Guapacho shoal, until the light bears S. 27^ E. (S. 45^ E. mag.) or abeam, when they can haul to the southeastward, and act according to circumstances.
Port San Carlos de Ancnd. — ^Agoi point is 3 miles SSE. from Corona head. 'There is a forjb on the hill above the point and a signal staff.
A rock, the position of which is doubtftd, is said to exist § mile N. 440 W. (K 620 W. mag.) from Agui point.
Light. — A fixed white light, visible about 2 miles, is exhibited from the signal staff on Agui point, and is useful as a guide to the anchorage.
Pilots. — There are several pilots at Ancud, who board vessels on the usual signal being made, weather permitting.
Nuiiez bank. — A red buoy, surmounted by a white flag, is moored in 3^ fathoms on the northeastern edge of the rocky bank that extends between Agui and Balcacura x>oints. Vessels should on no account pass westward of the buoy.
San Antonio bank. — A bell buoy, painted black, is moored in 11 fathoms at low water near the NW. edge of San Antonio bank.
Cochinos islet, 200 feet high, has two peaks on it and a shoal of 2 fathoms extends one mile off its east point. A sunken rock lies 400 yards westward of the north point of the island and sometimes breaks.
Mutico pointy 2 miles southeastward from Cochinos, has a patch of rocks, Mutico patch, lying NNIV. of it about a mile. All the bottom in that vicinity is irregular; patches of kelp are seen frequently, but they seem to be attached to large stones as well as rocks.
From Pihuin point, 3 miles I^E. of Mutico, a rocky patch extends about i mile and forms the termination of a bank extending from the shore between it and Mutico point, and is connected with Ingles bank.
The port. is on the SE. side of Lacui peninsula; its entrance, between Cochinos island and Agui point, is about 2 miles across, and from Cochinos island the port extends to Arena point westward, with an average breadth of one mile.
Westward of Arena point, Quetalmahue inlet extends 5 miles.
Ancud was named by the Spaniards successively Port Ingles and San Carlos; the Chileans gave it its present name in 1834. It is built on two small elevations, separated by a narrow gorge containing a brook, which empties near the mole. The houses are small and of wood. The plaza, on which there is a flagstaff, is on the southern hill. There is telegraphic communication with Valparaiso by way of Port Montt. On the cliffs over the sea near Ancud very thin veins of coal have been traced.
At Arena point there is a strong, well-built stone storehouse, and opposite to it is the church, also of stone.
PORT SAK CABL08. 203
Light — ^A Bmall fixed red light is shown on the large mole at Ancnd.
Anchorage. — The anchorage off the town of Ancnd is not safe, but a vessel of not more than 12 feet draft may stop there for a time in fine weather. In this case the best berth is in 3 fathoms water, sand and mud, at 800 yards NW. of the pier.
The best anchorage for a large vessel, especially during the Norther season, is off Balcacura point, in 7 or 8 fathoms, sand or mud, with Agui point bearing N. 18° E. (North mag.), and point Arena S. 76° W. (S. 570 W. mag.).
The most frequented anchorage is 1,000 yards SE. of Arena point, in from 6 to 9 fathoms, bottom fine sand; it is, however, an uncomfortable berth when the wind and tide are opposed, and northerly winds throw in a swell.
A 2-fathom patch is said to exist off Arena point, but could not be found. The pilot stated that it had been frequently dragged for in vain.
The anchorage of El Dique, situated one mile westward of Arena I)oint, is the most secure; the depths are from 3^ to 5 fathoms.
Supplies. — Fresh beef is plentiful; sheep and pigs can be obtained in small numbers. Poultry is abundant, and moderate in price. Vege- tables and dry provisions are scarce and dear. Oysters are plentiful.
Goal for steamers can only be obtained occasionally, and then in small quantities.
Artificers can be employed for repairs, but the prices are very high, both for labor and material.
Landingi etc. — On a small point to SW. of the town is a government mole. The dock alongside of it is partially obstructed by sand and rocks. It is not well to try to land here after half tide or before half food, as the sea breaks between these two limits. Boats can land with safety behind the small mole, but during low tide they can only laud outside, where there is always a sea with west winds. The shores are well peopled, the fields are well cultivated, and a short distance in the interior there is wood valuable for construction.
Dofia Sebastiana islet, 174 feet high, lies NE. 4 miles from Guapacho point. From the islet a bank named Achilles bank extends 4 or 5 miles westward, over which there is considerably disturbed water, rippling and swelling during a calm, but during a gale breaking in high short seas. This bank or ridge extends westward with Ohocoi head in line with the islet. There are 6 fathoms at low water on it, at 3J miles from the islet, and 4 fathoms at 2 miles. The vicinity of both Sebastiana and Oarelmapu islets to the northward must be given a wide berth, as the tide sets strongly near them — at times in races.
Carelxuapu islets form a rocky chain about 2 miles long, lying 2^ miles northward of Sebastiana islet; the ]N^W. islet is 140 feet high. These islets should never be approached from the westward within 4 miles.
Ingles bank. — ^The western end of this bank lies about 2 miles south
204 CHILOE ISLAND.
of Sebastiana islet. It is a very dangeroas shoal, with only a tew feet of water over some x)arts, the bottom being sand, or sandstone, or of hard tosca, over which the tide runs with great strength.
The bank extends 5 miles in an easterly and opposite direction, and is connected with Ghiloe island, between Mutico and Pihnin points, by Huicha bank.
Ooronel point, open north of San Gallan i)oint, leads northward of Ingles bank, and the SE. Carelmapn islet, open west of Doiia Sebas- tiana, leads to the westward.
Chocoi heady at If miles eastward of Dotia Sebastiana islet, is steep. Vessels should not use the channel between except under great neces- sity, or without the aid of a local pilot.
Cami)ana bank, drying at low water, lies ^ mile eastward of Dona Sebastiana islet.
Near Oareliiiapu point the passage appears free from danger, but the water is deep, and to the eastward of the point a long shoal extends nearly J mile from the shore.
Tides. — It is high water^ full and change, in Port San Oarlos at 14m.; springs rise 6 feet.
Directions. — Vessels bound to Port San Oarlos from the westwaM should steer for Guapacho point, keeping it to the southward of S. 60^ E. (S. 780 E. mag.) until the lighthouse bears S. 37° E. (8. 65° E. mag.), to avoid Osorio rock and Guapacho shoal, and thence along shore to an anchorage near Arena point under Balcacura heights, rounding Corona head and Agui point at about } mile distant, to avoid Achilles and Ingles banks.
Agui point and Balcacura head are foul 600 yards off, and a shoal, on which the Nunez bank stands, extends from point to point at the dis- tance of i mile from the shore. Cochinos islet, kept midway between Huihuen heights and Mutico point, bearing 8. 37^ E. (8. 55^ E. mag.), forms a good mark from Guapacho point to the entrance of the port.
Chacao narro^^s are entered from the westward after passing Ingles bank. They are about 11 miles long and from one to 2J miles wide. On their north side, that of the mainland, are Carelmapu i>oint and Chocoi head, steep cliffs, in front of which runs a powerful stream of tide. The state of the tide, which runs with great velocity, and there being sufl&cient wind to keep a vessel under command, are the principal points to consider when about to pass these narrows. A temporary anchorage may be had on the south side between Peguenum and Quintraquin points, off' Lacao island, and also on the east side of Quintraquin point; and, on the whole, as the tide, strong as it is, sets to each side of rather than toward the Petucara rocks, the passage is not so formidable as it appears to the Chiloe boatmen.
There are two channels into these narrows, one on each side of Ingles bank. The northern one is the better; the southern, which leads from Port San Carlos, is a dangerous passage for a stranger to tak^ unless with the assistance of a local pilot.
i CHACAO NARROWS. 205
Entering Chacao narrows from the eastward. — Tres Graces point may be roundel at i mile distant and a course steered for Eemo- liuos point, edging out as it is approached, and on to San Gallan point. From abreast San Gallan point steer for Gareliuapu point, bearing in mind that the ebb tide sets strongly round Peguenum point to the south westward. Cardmapu point may be passed at i mile distant, when a West (8.720 W. mag.) course until midway between Dona Sebastiana islet and Goronsb head will clear every known danger j and Port San Garlos, or anchorage, may be steered for, as before directed.
From the westward. — After passing Garelmapu bay, keep along the north shore until Tres Gruces point bears S. 20° E. (S. 38^ E. mag.), to pass east of Seluian rock, when, if going to the southward, a course may be sh.aped.
Peguenum pointy the SW. point of Ghacao narrows, is low, with yellow sand dunes backed by wooded land.
Amazonas shoal.— About 2 miles S. 60o W. (S. 42° W. mag.) of Gareliuapu point there exists a reef of rocks and gravel extending about one mile in the direction NW.-SE. At the center of the reef there is a depth of 5 fathoms, but it is presumed that there is even less water on the reef, as it is known that the steamer Amazonas touched on some part of this shoal.
Topaze rock. — ^At the entrance of the l^arrows, H. M. S. TopazCj
drawing 22 J feet, touched at half ebb. The shoal is one mile 8. 29^ W.
,(S. 11^ W. mag.) of Garelmapu point, with Ghocoi head bearing N. 57^
W. (N. 75° W. mag.). At the moment the vessel touched no bottom
was obtained with 10 fathoms of line.
This rock is reported to lie one mile farther south and to join MuUer and GuiJlerma rocks.
San Gallan point, opcM southward of Goronel point, leads between Topaze and Guillermo rocks, but if overlapping they lead on the Guil- lermo rock.
The south extreme of Ghocoi head, in line with the northern extreme of D.oua Sebastiana islet, bearing N. 66^ W. {N. 84° W, mag.), leads north of Topaze rock.
Esmeralda rock, with not more than 2 fathoms over it at low water, is situated upon the I^W. extremity of Huicha bank.
Buoy.. — A red conical buoy, surmounted by a white cone, is moored in 15 feet water close to this rock.
Guillermo rock is stated to have 9 feet water over it and to be on a bank, of 3f fathoms, named Knoll bank, and lying 2 miles westward from Peguenum point.
Buoy. — ^A red spherical buoy, surmounted by a white ball, moored m 3lS feet of water clo^e northward of the rock. There is a depth of 8 fathoms of water 1X0 yards northward of this buoy. The buoy is liable to drift.
lAuUer rock, with 12 feet water, lies 2 miles S. 26° W. (S. 8° W, mag.) of Garelmapu point.
206 GUILOE ISLAND.
Peguenum rocks, nearly f mile from Pegaenom point, consists of a rock which is uncovered at low water, and another lying directly to the westward of it.
The easternmost rock uncovers an hour or two before low water; it is part of a reef which runs NE. and SW. for about 400 yards. The western extremity of the reef rises in two jioints, which are 2 feet above the water at low tide. Close to this rock on the NW. and 8E. sides are 9 fathoms of water, whereas in the direction of the reef there are only 4^ fathoms at a distance of 05 feet from it.
At 400 yards to. the westward of the former is the other reef men- tioued; it is about 200 yards long in an east and west direction. On its lowest part, the eastern extremity, there are but 3 feet of water at low tide. On the western extremity is another rock, which has 6 feet of water over it. Both of these rocks are covered with seaweed, which can only be seen at slack water, as the currents are too strong at other times.
According to the last Chilean researches, these shoals are connected by a chain of rocks of very irregular shape. During the strong flood (4 to C knots) very violent eddies are produced off Pegueiium i)oint, from the irregularity of the bottom. Between the point and the chain of rocks shoal water extends about one-third of the distance.
•Wreck rock.— About one mile S. 70o W. (S. 52o W. mag.) of the western Peguenum rock is a rock covered by 9 feet of water. It is sup- posed that the steamer Prince of Wales was lost on this rock. Its bearings are Peguenum and Quintraquin points in line and the !NW. extremity of the heights of Huihuen shut in by the eastern extremity of Cochinos island.
Valparaiso bank. — It is stated by the local pilots that a bank of shingle, upon which breakers are seen at low water, lies 2f miles S. 86^ W. (S. GSo W. mag.) off Peguenum point.
" Lacao bay. — Eastward of Peguenum point, between it and Quin- traquin point, is the island and the shoal bay of Lacao. Quintraquin point is a bold, cliffy point, steep-to; to the eastward of it there is good anchorage in from 9 to 11 fathoms, sand and shell, J mile offshore.
Anchorage. — The local pilots anchor vessels, waiting tide, in from 3J to 4f fathoms good holding ground and out of the strength of the stream, at 400 yards ENE. of the north point of Lacao island, but strangers should not shut San Gallan point in by Quintraquin point, as the water shoals suddenly and a reef, which dries at low-water springs, extends nearly 800 yards from the north end of Lacao island. The berth used by H. M. S. Nassau was with San Gallan point just open and north point of Lacao island S. 53° W. (S. 35^ W. mag.).
It should be remembered that the tidal streams turn from one-half to three-quarters of an hour later at the first-mentioned anchorage than in mid-channel of the narrows.
Supplies. — Sheep, potatoes, butter, and milk can be obtained from Lacao island.
SAN GALLAN POINT CHILEN BLUFF. 207
San G-allan point is steep, with a remarkable clump of bnshes on its summit. The north shore opposite is low, except near Ooronel point, where there are cliffs about 100 feet in height, behind which the land rises to about 200 feet, and is thickly wooded. Between San Gallan and Santa Teresa points the distance across the narrows is just one mile in a N. 30^ E. (K. 12^ E. mag.) direction j it is the narrowest part from shore to shore, and J mile farther eastward the Petucura and Seluian rocks divide the channel into two narrow passages, either of which may be used. A light is proposed for this point.
Petucura rock. — Excepting the great strength of the tide, which may prevent a sailing ship from being under command, the only dan- gers to be encountered in the eastern part of Chacao narrows are Petucura and Seluian rocks. Petucura rock, awash at half tide, lies in mid-channel; a line drawn from the extremity of Ooronel point to the ^extreme of San Gallan point, and a line between the summit of Santa Teresa point and the summit of Chacao head, cross each other at the southern part of the rock.
Seluian rock, more dangerous to large ships than the Petucura rock, lies S. 65o B. (S. 83^ E. mag.) from it, distant J mile. There is 12 feet on the rock at low water. Eound this rock, as well as round the Petucura, there is deep water, except to the eastward, in which direc- tion a rocky ridge extends J mile. The stream runs very strongly over and past these rocks during the ebb as well as the flood tide.
Tres Cruces point, bearing S. 20^ E. (S 38o E. mag.), leads eastward of the Seluian rock.
Chacao bay. — At the eastern entrance of the Chacao narrows, between Coronel and Tres Cruces points, the depth is about 60 fath- oms, but in Chacao bay, on the south side of the entrance, there is anchorage in about 10 fathoms J mile NE. of Chacao head, with Tres Cruces point bearing S. 72o E. (East mag.). The holding ground is not good; being of gravel and pebbles, vessels are liable to drag. When entering or leaving the bay care must be taken to avoid the reef extend- ing 600 yards northward from the shore of Chacao blufl:; the reef dries at low spring tides.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Chacao narrows at 50m. : springs rise 16 feet, neaps 7 feet. The strength of the streams between Guapacho and Doiia Sebastiana islet is from 3 to 4 knots, and gradually increases in rate until the maximum of 9 knots at springs is attained off Remolinos point. There is no slack water in the narrows.
In Chacao bay an eddy sets in a contrary direction to the stream in the narrows, at from 1 to 3 knots; the line of separation is that drawn from Tres Cruces point to Remolinos point.
Western shore. — El Anela is the name given to the anchorage 3 miles southward of Tres Cruces point; the depths are from 11 to 16 fathoms about f mile offshore.
Chilen bluff, the east extreme of a peninsula which projects from the south side of Manao bay, at 5 miles south of Tres Cruces point.
208 CHILOE ISLAND.
rises suddeiily to about 150 feet. A sboal of sand and pebbles extends i( mile eastwai-d from the bluflf. At J mile XW. of Cliilen bluli' there is auotber bluff of tbe same height, with a rocky point projecting, and between this aud the latter bluff boats may find a good cove.
Heavy overfalls are souietimes felt about one mile off Chilen bluff, which is about the southeastern limit of the Narrows' tide. To the northward of the bluft' the Chacao narrows and Ancud gulf tides usually meet.
Ancla de Manao, on the southern shore of Manao bay, affords tem- porary anchorage in 11 to 10 fathoms, water. Wood and fresh water can be easily obtained at this anchorage.
Hueihuc port, on the south side of Chilen bluff, affords anchorage in 13 to 16 fathoms, sand.
Port Linao, at 2^ miles SW. of Chilen bluff, has good anchorage in from 6 to 8 fathoms at the head and abreast the Chapel. Gueldan cove, at the NW. part of the port, is said to be the best anchorage during winter. A reef of rocks exteuds above a mile off the NE. point of Guapilinao head, on the south side of entrance. Deeper water is reported in the harbor.
MEaipo bank. —This rocky bank, with 4.j fathoms, is said to lie about 5 miles north of Queiiiao point and about 4 miles SE. of Chilen bluff. It was unsuccessfully searched for in 1893.
Queiuao point. — About 4 miles from Guapilinao head is the small village of Lliuco. The land between is about 200 feet high, with steep, wooded cliffs; to the eastward of the village it is low, aud continues so until near Queiiiao point, when it rises to about 200 feet. This point is low and stony, with shoal water extending fully a mile off.
Between Guapilinao and Queniao point, about G miles SE., there is a projecting stony beach, which at low water dries out nearly a mile from shore.
The 3 fathom shoal off Queniao point, indicated on the chart as a detached shoal, is connected with that i)oint, the depths between being very shallow. Vessels when passing should not approach the x>oint nearer than 2 miles.
Pido rock, position doubtful, is just above water, and lies about f mile NNE. i E. from Lliuco chuch. It is dark, and can be seen for a long distance.
Fort Huite is also called Oscuro cove. At 1^ miles southwestward of Queniao point there is a sandy spit with 12 feet water on it about J mile from the shore, when it deepens suddenly to 8 and 12 fathoms nesur the shingle spit which forms this small but valuable port, protected from the southeastward by Caucahue island, distant about one mile. This port may become of great use, as the rise of the tide is large; the water is deep close to the shore and there is no swell. Any similar place on the west coast of South America is not at present known. The entrance is about 600 yards wide, and the point of the spit steep-to, but
PORT TUBILDAD QUICAVI LAGOON. 209
the west side of entrance is a rocky point, with stones lying 100 yards off it. The length of the port is f mile and its breadth GOO yards ; there are 7 fathoms Water within 50 3rards of low- water mark, and from 12 to 16 fathoms in the middle, over a bottom of mad and sand.
Vessels entering should keep close to the south side, under Lobos head, a steep bluff about 250 feet high, forming the north point of Gaucahtte island, behind which the land falls suddenly, and is very low for a short distance, after which it rises again. In this port a ship may be laid ashore, hove down, or thoroughly repaired with safety and ease.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Huite at 55m. ; springs rise 20 feet, neaps 13 feet. The flood tide off the port sets to the northward, and strongly at springs.
Fort Tubildad, at 2 miles SW. of Unite, affords commodious and well-sheltered anchorage in 16 to 27 fathoms.
Port QuenchOi situated at about 3 miles south of Tubildad, affords an excellent beach for r^airiug vessels. Carpenters, but no other workmen, can be engaged here. Spring tides rise 21 feet. Sheep, poultry, and vegetables can be procured in small quantities; potatoes and fresh water plentiful.
Caucahue strait. — Ohogon point, the south entrance point of Gaucahue strait, is a bluff about 200 feet in height, and has a shoal which shows at low water, extending ^ mile seaward. It is a long mile to the southward of Quintergen point, the south extreme of Gaucahue island, which last is low and stony, with a shoal spit of about ^ mile in length. Between them lies Gaucahue strait, and in the entrance there is no bottom with 50 fathoms. Vessels bound to Port Huite from the southward may pass inside Gaucahue island.
Shoal. — In the fairway of the south entrance to Gaucahue strait lies a shoal almost circular in shape and about 130 yards across. The least depth found was 1| fathoms.
It is stated locally that vessels should pass southward of this danger.
Qtticavi bluff.— Between Ghogon point and Quicavi bluff, the next point to the southward, the coast recedes, and in the middle of the bight is the entrance of the Golu river, which appears too small for anything but boats to enter. A flat extends about ^ mile off the latter point, and near its extreme there is Lilecura rock, which shows at half tide. There is a tide race between the Ghauquis islands and Quicavi bluff.
Lilecura Rock beacon. — A beacon, painted red Uiid white, in hori- zontal stripes and visible about 2 miles, has been erected on Lilecura rock.
Quicavi lagoon. — About one mile to the southward of Quicavi bluff is Quicavi lagoon ; boats entering after the flrst quarter of the flood can remain afloat in some parts of it even at low tide. This lagoon can be recognized by a narrow border of pebbles, on which there is a grove of trees, and from which a reef runs out to the eastward of Quicavi hill. Behind it the land, thickly wooded, rises to an elevation of 250 feet.
1943— No. 89 14
210 CHILOE ISLAND.
The rise and fall of tide is 20 feet; in the lagoon the channel leading to it has that depth, and at low water is almost dry.
Chauquis islandB. — Eastward of Qaicavi blnff are the six islands forming the Chauquis group, divided by a deep channel, running nearly north and south, and 1^ miles wide in its narrowest part. The western island, 350 feet high, is the highest; the HE. island has a round hill upon it, and the other parts are much lower. The islands are inhabited by Indians.
Beefs extend from the NW. points of both the eastern and western islands; the latter to the distance of 1^ miles, and at its extreme end there are 10 fathoms water, with the west bluff of Meulin island a little open of the low point under the bluff of the western Chauquis. Fool ground extends about a mile from the S£. side of the easternmost island of the group. A small island named Tao and the Dugoab reef lie southward of these islands.
Good anchorage is reported off the SE. coast of Tac island. Dugoab reef extends farther eastward than formerly charted. The passage between the reef and islands should not be attempted.
Between Quicavi bluff' and the Chauquis islands a ship may navigate safely if a mid-channel course be preserved.
Rock. — A rock, awash at low water springs, has been reported as lying in the fairway SE. of Tac island with Chumeline x>oint bearing approximately S. 72^ E. (East mag.), distant 5 miles.
Fiimulinan reef lies 4 miles north of the western Chauquis and ex- tends i mile in a l^W. and SE. direction. Bocks show at low water, and at high water with light winds they do not break and are not easily seen.
Tenaun point — From Quicavi bluff to Teuaun point the coast is flat for J mile from the beach. A reef dries at low water more than J mile from the shore, and it is shallow for nearly i mile, then deepens suddenly to 10 fathoms. The reef does not run off the extreme pointy but from a bluff a little to the northward of it.
The point is low and thickly wooded for about J mile, when it rises suddenly to a range about 200 feet high.
Anchorage. — There is good anchorage with northerly winds off the village on the south side of Tenaun point, a good mark for which is the lai'ge church. Coming from the northward a ship should proceed down the channel until the church bears K. 66° W. (K. 83° W. mag.), then haul in to S. 87° W. (S. 69° W. mag.) until the church bears N. 4o W. (K. 220 W. mag.), when it may be steered for, and by carefully sound- ing a good berth may be had in from 15 to 10 fathoms.
H. M. S. Nassau anchored with the extreme of Tenaun point in line with the south extreme of Chauquis island. With the church bearing K. 40 W. (N. 220 W. mag.), distant f mile, there are 10 fathoms.
Tides. — The flood tide sets close round Tenaun point, and then across the channel toward the Chauquis islands; the ebb runs to the SW. close round the point, and at the beginning of the springs its rate is 2 knots.
PORT CALEN — CHAULINEC ISLAND. 211
L — ^A vessel proceeding to the southward from Tenann Point anchorage should keep well on the west side of the channel to avoid an extensive shoal with 8 feet on it, nearly midway between Lin- lin and Meulin islands. By keeping the west point of Ohaulinec island well open of the west point of Quena^ island, this shoal would proba- bly be avoided 5 also one off the west side of Quenac island that is marked by kelp, on which the Nassau obtained 2J fathoms and 17 fg,th- oms close-to.
The shoalest part of this shoal is i mile offshore, y^ith the southern part of Quenac island bearing S. 83o E. (N, 79^ B. mag.).
Caution. — ^At the middle of Ihe narrow channel separating this island from Chiloe island, and northeastward of the north extreme of Linlin island, there is a shoal of stones and gravel on which several vessels have touched.
The local authorities do not consider that the soundings are correct as indicated on the chart between Linlin island and Meulin island. They also state that the three shoals indicated in that locality are not correctly placed on the chart, and caution mariners accordingly.
Ports Calen and Quetalco. — Five mUes to the westward of Tenaun point is Port Calen, which is sheltered from the prevailing winds. Two miles farther is Quetalco, which has capacity for a large number of vessels with a moderate depth throughout. It is perfectly sheltered from the north and west winds, which are so frequent in these localities during the entire year. Vessels can await in these ports until a storm subsides; or, if bound to the southward through Dalcahue channel, await high water.
Linlin island' is low in the center, gradually rising to a round hill terminated by a bluff both to the northward and southward; but off all the points there are spits of shingle. To the southward of Linlin is the smaller island of Idenua; both these islands are inhabited and well cultivated, but there is no anchorage for ships.
Quenac, Meulin, and Caguache islands. — On Oaguache island there is a round hill 250 feet high, which commands a good view of the neighboring islands. The north side of the island is low; the south side slopes suddenly to the beach, and off' the iNTE. point is Tenquelil isle, joined to Gaguache island by a reef on which there is only suffi- cient depth for a boat at low water. All these islands are inhabited and cultivated. The town of Quenac is on the north coast of that island; it was formerly the principal one of the district, and has a church, schools, post-office, etc., but the anchorage is indifferent.
Tiquia reef, lying 2 miles east of Oaguache island, is about 1^ miles WW. and SE., J mile broad, and dries at low water. There is a deep passage between it and the neighboring islands.
Chelin, Quehui, Alao, Apiao, and Chaulinec islands. — Between Quinchao and Lemui islands lie the islands Ohelin and Quehui; the IsE. extremity of the latter is named Imel, and is connected with it
212 CHILOE ISLAND.
only by a narrow isthmns. Off line! tliere is a shingle bank that dries at low water, and which considerably narrows the channel between Imel and Chaolinec.
Besides Chanlinec there are two smaller islands named Alao and Apiao, and reefs extend off the north ends of each of them, from the latter as £ftr as 2^ miles. At the 8 W. end of Alao island, close to the entrance of the channel, between it and Chanlinec island, there is a small harbor or cove, formed by a low i>oint, suitable for coasters or for a vessel drawing not more l^n L3 feet; the point is sto^to and the cban^el on that side clear.
There is good anchorage off the south side of Qnehoi ii^nd^ in 7 to 10 fathoms, sand, about i mile off shore, with the extremes of QnAni island bearing N. 19o B. (North mag.) and 8. 75° W. {8, 66o W. mag.) and the west point of Chanlinec island N. 70^ E. (N. 51^ E. mag.)* There is also a well- sheltered place for small craft on the "KW. side of the island.
Dangerous shoals.— About i mile 8. 26<^ E. (8. 45^ E. mag.) of Chaulinec island there is a reef that breaks occasionally at low water.
A shoal on which there is a depth of 2| fathoms, soft bottom, lies with the west extreme of Chaulinec island bearing N. 2° E. (N. 17° W. mag.), distant 3 mites, and the center of Imel island bearing 1^. 23^ W. (N. 420 W. mag.).
A dangerous shoal lies with the eastern point of Chaulinec island bearing K. 19^ E. (^orth mag.), distant about Of miles. As no par- ticulars of this shoal are given, mariners should exercise the greatest caution when navigating near its reported vicinity. Position as given, latitude 42o 47' 8*, longitude 73o 18' W.
Desertores islands lie 5^ miles SE. of Chaulinec island, and in mid- channel between them and Chaulinec there are 95 fathoms, coral and broken shell. Talcan, the largest of these islands, is 9 mUes long and 4 miles broad and has a deep inlet at its SE. end.
The smaller islands, Chulin, Chuil (Chiut), Nituel, Imerqnina^ and Kayahue, do not afford any shelter for vessels except at the northern end of the latter, which is divided by a narrow channel, with from 2 to 10 fathoms in it, but useless except for boats; some rocks lie i mile off the SB. point.
Driver rock lies one mile eastward firom Chuil island; this rock is small and dries at low water.
A reef, which is probably awash at low water, is reported to lie about 2 miles 8 W. of Chuil island; the reef is said to be nearly 200 yiurds loi]^ in an east and west direction and about 30 yards broad.
Many rocks lie scattered off the 8 W. and southern part of Talcan to the distance of a mile, and off its north point a shoal extends as far as 1^ miles, with 4 to 6 fathoms on it. At 2 miles from this point there is a rock about 10 feet above the sea, ^quented by seals.
Vessels seeking anchorage among these islands should be cantious in approaching them, in consequence of these rocks.
TALCAN INLET — QUINCHAO CHANNEL. 213
Shoalfi, — between GhuUu and Talcciu islands there are two sboals not indicated on the charts. One, a rock, lies 1,200 yards K. SIP W. (S, 74P W. mag.) from Lobos roek. The other ^ a patch of rocks marked by kelp, lies midway between Lobos rock and the south point of Chalin islajid.
Lobos rock is one shown on the charts as a rock awash in latitude 420 40' S., longitude 73° W.
The south x>oint of Ohulin- island extends in a SE. direction 1,093 yards farther than shown on the charts, and the channel between it and the rocky patch described above is very narrow and not to be recommended. About 2 miles west from the north point of Ohiut island there is a jock with 13 to. 16 feet of water over it at low water.
Talcan inlet, at the SE. of Talcan island, haa a varying depth of 12 to 7 fathoms, and for 2 miles within the entrance either shore may be approached to about 200 yards; the land on both sides rises gradually to about 200 feet, and is thickly wooded; at the head it is low, and the shore flat aud muddy.
Just outside the entrance of Talcan inlet, between the points, there are several patches of kelp, and about ^ mile beyond the line of the points there is a reef of rocks which dries at Ic^w water; a small channel leads to the northward of the^ into the bay, with 9 and 7 fathoms water until near the entrance of the harbor, which is almost blocked up by kelp. The deepest water, at 200 yards outside the entrance, is 3 fathoms.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Talcan island at Ih. 3m.; springs rise 15 feet.
The streams run about 4 knots, at springs through the channel at the entrance to Talcan inlet.
Solitario reef, — This dangerous reef^ which uncovers at low water, lies 5i miles 8. 62© W. (S. 43° W. mag.) from the NW. point of Nayahue island, or nearly in mid-channel between Ghiloe and Desertores islands.
Quinchao chaxmel and Dateahue pass. — Quinchao island, the largest of the group lying in the bay south of Tenaun point, on the shore of Ghiloe, is about 17 miles SE. and NW.
Quinchao channel narrows gradually to the westward as far as the NW. point of the island; it then turns suddenly to the SW. into Dal- cahue pass, and is not more than a mile wide. On the Ghiloe shore is the small village of Dalcahue.
To the east of the turn in the channel, about ^ mile, there are sound- iligs right across in from 4 to 10 fathoms, mud; but the north shore is shallow and should not be apx>roached nearer than one^hird of the breadth of the channel; the shoal which commences there runs round the bay abreast of the village of Dalcahue, and, off the sawmills of that place, extends halfway across the channel. The deepest water is 4 fathoms, and runs close to the shore of Quinchao. The tide runs through the channel about 4 knots at springs.
Shoals. — A rocky shoal, marked with kelp, extends about one mile eastward from Gheguian point, the south point of Quinchao island.
214 CHILOE ISLAND.
A rocky Bhoal, aboat 2 miles in extent, with 10 feet of water over it, lies about 2 miles fi*om the northwest ix>int of Alao island, on its align- ment with the western side of Qaenac, and about 2 miles from the most eastern point of Quinchao.
Rilau cove. — ^The Dalcahue pass opens to the southward into a broad bay named Eilau. On the Ohiloe side is the small cove and vil- lage of the same name. In the cove there is anchorage in from 11 to 18 fathoms. As far as its eastern point the shore is steep- to,, but a flat named Aguantao there commences. It is of shingle and large stones, and dries at low water from | to ^ mile off, continuing to the eastward as far as the low shingle point, where it ends in a spit extending above a mile to the SE. The KE. side of the spit is shoal to some distance, but on the SW. side it deepens suddenly to 3 fathoms.
Tides. — The ebb stream sets strongly across Aguantao reef to the SE. toward the channel between the islands of Lemui and Chelin. Between Lemui and the main the stream was scarcely perceptibie; what little was found appeared to set to the eastward. Spring tides rise 18 feet.
Castro inlet — From Aguantao reef to the entrance of Castro inlet, 9 miles in a W8W. direction, the channel is from 2 to 3 miles wide; in the middle of the channel there are 42 fathoms of water, muddy bot- tom. The eastern point of the inlet is low and stony, but it can be passed within J mile in 12 fathoms. The western side of the entrance is formed by Lintinao islet, which is united to Chiloe by a sand spit which is dry at low water; from the exterior of this islet a stony point runs out to the eastward 200 yards; the southern portion of this point is steep-to.
To the southward of Lintinao islet is the small harbor Quinched, where a vessel bound to Castro can await a favorable time to run up, in case she found the wind baffling in the first two reaches; this is gen- erally the case with north winds, though they may be strong outside; and no anchorage can be found in either of these reaches until too near the shore for safety. The depths in the fairway to Castro are reported to have decreased considerably.
Quinched. — The village of Quinched is about 3 miles to the west- ward of the entrance to Castro inlet. The country is well cultivated and thickly peopled for 3 or 4 miles on either side of the inlet.
Directions. — At J mile above the second reach of Castro inlet the east coast can be approached within 100 yards, but the other side is flat and shoal to within ^ mile of the beach, and the soundings decrease too rapidly to admit of navigating by the lead.
Going up or down, the eastern shore should be kept, not leaving it more than two-thirds the width of the channel.
The eastern shore is composed of steep wooded slopes, rising to about 160 feet above the level of the sea. The western shore rises gradually, forming several level steps, which increase in height to 400 or 600 feet.
CASTRO HAKBOR — ^DETIF HEADLAND. 215
Behind them, at a distance of 5 miles from the beach, there is a range of hills about 1,000 feet high and thickly wooded.
Anchorage. — About 2 miles below Castro is a small cove, on the east shore, in which a vessel can anchor in case of necessity. There are 20 fathoms between the points, but it shoals suddenly as soon as the line connecting these points is passed. Castro point is a level plateau, about 98 feet above the sea level, and separates the small har- bor in the north from the Gamboa river to the south. It is terminated by a low, pebbly point, steep-to on the north side, but on its southern side a bank commences, which follows the western shore of this part of the inlet.
Harbor. — The .small harbor of Castro, to the northward of Castro point, is i mile long and ^ mile wide. Between the points are 7 fath- oms, but this depth decreases gradually to 3 fathoms ^ mile inside. The best anchorage is very near the south port. The northern side is shoal 100 yards from shore. In steering for the harbor a vessel must keep along the east shore until off the port, and then steer a course perpendicular to the entrance. By this the bank to the southward of Castro point, which extends i mile out, will be avoided.
The town of Castro is near the exterior part of Castro point. It con- sists of several small streets with wooden houses. The few inhabitants are poor. Fresh provisions can be obtained. San Carlos de Ancud and Castro, 38 miles apart in a straight line, are connected by a road through the forests. It can only be used in dry weather.
Lemui island forms the southern side of the channel leading to Castro inlet. Puqueldon, the principal village, stands on the north shore of the island and on the east bank of a narrow creek not deep enough to afford shelter for a vessel. There is, however, anchorage off Puqueldon for two moderate-sized vessels. It is open to the northward.
Supplies. — Sheep, fowls, eggs, and vegetables can be obtained at Puqueldon.
Ichuac cove is at the west part of Lemui island, near which the shore is rocky and steep- to. At the entrance to the cove there is no bottom with 20 fathoms, but halfway up it there is good anchorage for a small vessel in from 10 to 7 fathoms, mud. There is a small village and chapel here. A seam of coal has been found, but has not been examined. It is difficult to land. At high tide the water rises to the trees; at low water it leaves a muddy beach.
Detif headland, the southeastern extremity of Lemui island, termi- nates in a perpendicular cliff to the westward, about 150 feet above the sea, surmounted by a round hill 250 feet high, which falls gradually to a low neck of land about J mile long, and again rises to the same height. A stony flat extends f mile off the point. It is steep-to on the western side, but extends eastward to the next point, about IJ miles off. At 100 yards from the end of the shoal there are 7 fathoms, and at 400 yards no bottom with 30 fathoms.
216 CHILOE I8LAKD.
Apabon reof. — From Apabon point, the north extreme of Detif headland, a reef extendi} 3^ miles to the eastward. Near its oater end there is a rock 6 feet above high water, and generally visible from the anchorage under Quehui island. At low water the reef uncovers for about ^ mile on each side of it From this rock a reef (locally known as Inche rock) extends 4 miles in a southerly direction toward Lelbon point, considerably contracting the channel to Lemui. The reef is com- prised of sand and rock, is marked by kelp, and has variable depths over it. Xear its southern extreme there are 9 feet at low water.
Caution. — No vessel should attempt to cross the Apabon reef, al- - though there are depths of 6 to 9 feet at low water between the dry rock and the shore, because the tide sets over it strongly and irregularly.
Tal point. — Outside of Yal point are two low shingle islands, which are connected by a spit covered at low water.
Off the NE. extremity of the exterior island a dangerous ridge ex- tends about ^ mile in 2 fathoms of water; its extreme x>oint seems to extend about J mile farther out.
Tal bay and cove. — One mile south of Tal x>oint is a steep hill, which forms the southern point of Yal cove, and a little in the interior from this point is a flat hillock covered with trees.
The entrance to Yal cove is to the northward of the steep hill. Both poinds of this small harbor are steep-to, and there is no bottom with 20 fathoms in the middle of the channel between them, but halfway in good anchorage will be found in 5 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom.
The steep hill forms also the north point of Yal bay. Between the points of this bay, which is 2 miles wide, there is no bottom with 64 fathoms. There is no anchorage in the outer bay of Yal until within J mile of the hill, where there are 23 fathoms; the depth thence decreases to low-water mark. It is not a good anchorage, however, and vessels should only use it in cases of necessity. On the west side there is a hillock resembling that to the eastward, but less elevated; when com- ing from the south both will be recognized, and they form excellent landmarks for the cove. The land behind them is low and thickly wooded. Terao point, the southern extremity of the bay, is low but steep-to; a little to the southward of it the shore is flat J mile off.
Tides. — The ebb tide at springs sets SE. about 2 knots off Aboni point.
Cape Aitai, about 3 miles to the SE. of Lelbun point, is low and rocky. Some rocks on a reef which extends from it to the southeast- ward dry at about 2 miles from the shore, but there is a x>assage for boats between and inside them. About 209 yards outside the outer rock there is 5 fathoms, and from thence the reef before mentioned trends in toward a sandy point with a clump of bushes, about 3 miles to the northward of Queilen point.
Shoals. — A shoal reported in 1882, with 12 feet water, and about one mile in extent north and south, lies with Lelbun point bearing S. 78^
QUEILEN POINT — ^TRANQUI ISLAND. 217
W. (S. 59^ W. mag.) and fclie center of Imel island bearing N. i^ \^, (N. 230 W. mag.).
At 4 miles S. 68<=> E. (S. 87o E. mag.) from this shoal a roek was reported in 1889.
The Chilean Government has given notice of the reiK)rted existence of a shoal, apparently of some extent, and marked by kelp, lying in the northern part of Oorcovado gulf, with Oentinela point bearing South (S. 190 E. mag.) and cape Altai West (S. 71o W. mag.), distant about 6J miles. A depth of 9 fathoms was obtained, but there appeared to be very little water on other parts of the shoal.
Queilen point is a long, narrow strip of land, very low, and covered with tr^es, except in one spot about 200 yards wide, J mile from the point, where the sand extends across. The beach on the SE. side slopes gradually, and at J mile off there is 2 fathoms water; off the point there is 7 fathoms within 100 yards. At 3 miles eastward of the point the small island of Acui rises from its low SW. point to a cliff, 200 feet high on the KE. side, from which some rocks stretch off nearly 2 miles; but the whole island is surrounded by a shoal of rock and shingle with kelp, part of it drying at low water, and extending off the west point about one mile. The channel between Queilen point and Tranqui island is about one mile wide, and the ebb sets through it to the westward about 2 knots at neap tides.
Tranqm island, 13 miles long, in an ESB. and WNW. direction, and about 3 miles broad, lies south of Queilen point, and protects Queilen cove and Compu inlet. A ridge of hills traverses the island ; it is about 300 feet high in the highest part, which is nearest the NW. end, and ^om thence it slopes gradually toward the east, and terminates in a low point named Oentinela. The north shore slopes gradually, and is well wooded; the island is thinly inhabited. There is a small bay named Ohauco at the NW. point of the island, where the channel turns suddenly to the southward, and off the bay is an islet. This bay affords anchorage in 15 fathoms.
Niunancia reef, on which the sea breaks, is reported to lie with Oen- tinela point bearing S. 56^ W. (S. 37° W. mag.), distant 2J milea. Large vessels and strangers should not navigate between this rock and Oen- tinela point, from which a depth of 16 feet was found over a rocky bottom.
A large patch of kelp has been seen at 5 miles NNE. of Numancia reef. In this position a rocky shoal is sSiid to exist, which partially uncovers at low water.
Bien Conocido shoaL— This shoal, composed of sand and gravel, with a least depth of 8 feet on it and 49 fathoms around, extends about one mile in an east and west direction, and lies with Oentinela point bearing S. 58o W. (S. 39^ W. mag.) and Oorcovado peak 8. 40° E. (S. 59o E. mag.). This shoal is stated to be connected with Oentinela point by foul ground covered with weeds.
218 CHILOE ISLAND.
The commaBder of the Chilean steamer Toro reports seeing^ a rock, showing 1^ feet at low water, near the position assigned to Bien Gono- cido bank.
The rock lies on the following bearings: Gorcovado volcano S. 50^ E« (S. 690 E. mag.) ; Gentinela point 8. 62° W. (8. 43° W. mag.). - Queilen channel. — After rounding Queilen x>oint, by keeping along the inside of the spit it will lead to the small harbor or cove of Queilen, the entrance to which is about ^ mile wide; but the shores on either side should not be approached within 200 yards, at which distance there are 3 fathoms, and 13 fathoms in raid-channel.
The cove is about % mile long and equally broad, but the west side is shallow for ^ mile. There is good anchorage in from 13 to 14 fathoms, with the chapel bearing 8. 73o E. (N. 88^ E. mag.) and about 700 yards offshore.
Fresh provisions and good water can be obtained at Queilen.
On the north shore, about one mile westward of the cove, there is a small cove named Deticu, 1,200 yards long, with an island off it named Ghagualin. This cove affords anchorage for a vessel in from 10 to 13 fathoms. The island may be approached to within 200 yards, where it shoals suddenly from 10 to 3 fathoms.
The flood tide runs close round the points, and then strikes across toward the north shore, outside the small island, within which there is very little tide. In the narrow channel it runs at least 4 knots at neap tides, sweeping round the rocky points.
At one mile west of Deticu cove, and separated from it by a head- land, is a similar cove named Quetu, affording anchorage in from 9 to 12 fathoms, sand. Pailad inlet, at one mile west of Quetu cove, extends 2 miles in a NNW. direction. The shore is steep and rocky, and, except at the entrance, has not depth of water suf&cic nt for other than small coasters.
Compu inlet, at the west end of Queilen channel, is 5 miles long and affords good anchorage for vessels of all sizes. From Yeculinao point, the south point of the inlet, a rocky shoal extends one-third of the distance to Tranqui island, but the passage is deep near the island side.
Cuello point is on the Ghiloe shore, at the entrance of the SW. channel, which runs between it and Tranqui island.
One mile SE. from this point there is a stony reef named Ghagua, extending in a NW. and SE. direction about J mile. Part of this reef dries at spring tides. The shallow part has kelp on it, but the shoal extends beyond the kelp about 200 yards each way. Inside, at the distance of J mile, there are 4 fathoms, which deepens to 12 fathoms about J mile from the shore.
Chaulin island, 4} miles SE. of Guello point, is low. A dangerous, rocky shoal extends 5J miles from the east extreme of this island, on which the rocks are visible when the swell is running.
HUILDAD INLET — CHILIN ISLAND. 219
inlet. — Its entrance, 5 miles SSE. of Cnello point, is bat 460 feet wide. Inside of the ridge, which makes out from the north shore, it widens to about J mile. One mile from the entrance it con- tracts again to 400 yards, when it opens into a large basin one to 2 miles wide and 4 miles long. In the outer harbor is a good anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms. The shores are steep- to, excepting along the inden- tation, which is behind the ridge of pebbles, and where there is shoal water 300 yards from the beach. In the strait between the two harbors there is 4^ fathoms, 40 yards from either shore, and 20 fathoms in mid- channel. On the south shore is a church with several houses. The other buildings are scattered along the shores of the harbor, but prin- cipally on the southern shore. The land around them is cleared. If it is desirable to await a change in the wind or weather at Huildad, the outer harbor is preferable, as the i^W. squalls are very heavy in the inner one, while the outer is entirely sheltered.
Tides. — At the entrance of the inlet the ebb tides run nearly 4 knots during the springs, but slacken considerably inside. In the strait the tides are almost as strong as at the entrance.
Huildad shoal, lying to the southward of the entrance to Huildad inlet, between it and Chaiguao point, extends over one mile from the shore, and is nearly covered with kelp ; the tide at its outer edge runs about IJ knots at springs. The shoal terminates to the southward in a long stony reef, which commences J mile inside Chaiguao point and extends SB. ; some of the stones are dry at low water about one mile from the point, and at spring tides the whole of the reef is dry as far as the outer stones. There is a channel between the south end of the reef and the N"E. side of Cailin island, with deep water close to the reef.
Tides. — In this channel the flood sets to the eastward across the reef at least 3 knots at springs; after passing the reef it meets the outside tide coming from the southward.
Cailin island. — Between Chaiguao point and San Pedro passage there is a deep bay fronted by Cailin, Laitec, and Colita islands, with the small cove of Yalad, NW. of the latter.
Cailin is 5 miles long NW. and SE., and about 4 miles broad. The northern coast is steep-to. After rounding the north point of the island, a low point of pebbles, there is an inlet which runs into the land about 4 miles SE., and terminates in three small coves. This inlet affords good anchorage, in from 13 to 16 fathoms, especially on the K'W. side; near the head the water shoals suddenly. The SB. coast of the island is composed of cliffs about 100 feet high. At their foot is a beach of pebbles. A reef with 4 fathoms at its edge extends 1 J miles from the beach.
Strangers should not attempt to use the channel between Cailin island and Chaiguao point. The soundings as indicated on the chart are misleading.
220 ANCUD OULF.
Ree£ — A reef extendn aoathward from Gailiii island, Darrowfaig greatly the chaunel between the island and Laitec or Liligoapi island. Besides this, the chaunel is very dangerous.
Fort QoAllon, on the Ghiioe shore, 2^ miles west of the north extreme of Oailin, is sheltered from the SB. by Lua point. It afifords good anchorage in moderate depths, and is an important place iji the export of timber. Yalad cove, at 4 miles WSW. of Lua point, also afiords good anchorage in from 10 to 14 fathoms. Vessels must pass west of the small island of Linagua, in the entrance; the passage east of the island is fit only for boats.
Snppliea — Oxen, sheep, poultry, and eggs can be obtained at Quel- Ion; the venders prefer to barter provisions for articles of clothing rather than for money.
Tidttft. — It is high water, full and change, at port QueUon at 12h. 40m. ; springs rise 14J feet.
Laitec island is 0 miles long NW. and SE., and about 3 miles in breadth, and is separated from Oailin island by a channel 2 miles across, at the southern entrance of which there are 20 fiikthoms water, but within the ground is foul; off its SB. end there are a few rocks, but no danger was visible beyond i mile, where 4 &thoms was found.
Laitec shoal. — A. dangerous shoal, on which the least water found by H. M. S. Nassau was 2f fathoms, and where the sea breaks heavily with SW. gales, lies 2^ miles off Laitec island. From the shoalest part found the SE. extreme of Laitec island bears K. 38^ W. (IS. 67<^ W. mag.), and White rock, at the entrance of port San Pedro, bears S* 710 W. (S. 620 W. mag.).
Colita island i^ low and thickly wooded, about 4 miles long and 1^ miles broad. The channel between it and Chiloe is very narrow,, and is not fit for a ship. Tbe land behind rises gradually from the coast and forms a range of hills above 1,000 feet high. Between Golita and Laitec islands the passage is 1^ miles broad. The tide sets about one knot through the channel north of the is]ands. Port San PediQ is described at page 198.
Oulfs of Ancud and Corcovado. — The coasts of the continent in the gulfs of Ancud and Corcovado, together with the shores of the interior sounds of the Ghonos archipelago, have only been partially surveyed. They were explored by Moraleda in 1795, from whose charts, as also from the Chilean surveys and other authorities, the coast line has been laid down on existing charts.
Pama bay, to the eastward of Coronel point, is entirely open to the southward, but sheltered against KW. winds; it should therefore be used only by vessels waiting for a favorable opportunity to pass through the strait of Chacao. Kear Tique point the breakers extend i mile from the beach, and the shoal continues along the shore to the southern part of Auque point. At that point a dangerous spit, | mile long, makes to the SE. into the Abtao channel. The eddies seen between Ohilen bluff and Tique point are called the Raya de Tique.
ABTAO ISLAN1>— QUIHUA ISLAND. 221
Abtao isl^md forms a narrow ridge about 3 miled long and 766 yards extreme width. The NW. part is the highest, 154 feet high, and ends in Pilqaeu hill. This is the only spot on the island where fresh water can be found. In the SW. the island terminates in a long, low, and very narrow tongue of land, named Quilque point, with a spit extend- ing 1,200 yards west from it. From the 'NW. point some rocks make out about 400 yards, close to which there are 12 fathoms; banks make out from the East and SE. extremities of Abtao, called Huenugnapi and Nahuelguapi; the latter projects about one mile and is covered with weeds; at its edge there is 5 fathoms.
Abtao channel is narrow and winding, but deep and navigable by any vessel. Sailing vessels, however, should not use the channel unless with a fair wind. The island shore should be kept aboard when clear of the spit off Quilque point. There is anchorage anywhere in the channel. At high water, when the banks are covered, it would be v6ry difficult to enter without a pilot; but at low water the passage shows distinctly, and with proper precautions might be used without a pilot.
Port Abtao or Chayahue. — The Abtao channel at its northern part is about i mile across, and on the western shore is a small bay named Port Abtao, which affords anchorage in from 10 to 20 fethotids.
The port id sheltered from all winds except easterly, has good holding ground, and can accommodate several ships.
Iidgartija island, 1^ miles ISB. of Abtao Island, is a round hummock, about 100 yards in extent, surrounded by a bed of shingle, which is covered at hi^ water except at the north point, where a narrow spit remains dry tor 300 yards. A shoal extends 2 miles off its SE. end, drying for a distance of one mile from the island at low water. The southern extreme, with 1^ fathoms on it, is named Cola bank.
Lami banks. — ^Between Lagartija island and Quenu island, at 5| miles farther east, lie the Lami banks, dry in several places at low watOT; the northern edge of these banks is parallel to the shore at the distance of about 1^ miles; in mid-channel there is 35 fathoms.
Vessels should not attempt to navigate between the several shoals denominated the Lami banks.
Z^gattya channel lies between the shoals south of Lagartija island and the shoal extending to the SE. of Abtao island. The narrowest part of the channel is J mile wide, and it is the passage used by all large vessels bound to port Montt.
Buojrs. — ^A black conical buoy is moored in 18 feet water on the SB. extremity of the sunken ridges extending SE. of Abtao islandi
Abreast this buoy on the east side of the chahnel lies South bank, with 2 fathoms least water on it.
A red xjan buoy is moored in 13 feet at low water on the west side of Middle bank.
Quihua is a large and rugged island, separated from the continent by a lotig, sinuous, and narrow branch of the sea called San Antonio channel. It is deep at the entrance, having about 14J fathoms; the
222 ANCUD GULF.
channel is dry for ^ mile at nearly all tides, and is only navigable for boats daring high water. The tides enter at both ends and lose themselves in the numerous estuaries.
Tabon island, at the western entrance to Beloncavi sound, is very irregular, and formed of a series of detached peaks, connected by small ridges of pebbles, several of which are covered at high water, when three separate islands are formed. From its western extremity a stony reef extends NW., and is dry at low water | mile from the shore. Another reef extends one mile southwestward from the west extreme of the island. Half a mile southward of the east point of Tabon there is anchorage in 15 fathoms, named Lin anchorage. The inhabitants are occupied in agriculture and cutting timber. Firewood is scarce,
Tabon shoal, of sand, shell, and pebble, about one mile long and steep-to, is said to dry at low spring tides and to be situated about midway between Tabon and Ohidguapi islands.
Amnistia or Shearwater bank, about 3 miles to the southward of Tabon, is a bank of rocks and stones, covered by 11 feet of water. It was reported by H. M. S. Shearwater ^ and has a diameter of about one mile.
Bank. — About 10 miles to the southward of the east point of Tabon and 15 miles east of Queniao the charts show a large bank of about 4 miles diameter, which uncovers at low water.
Quenu is a small island 110 feet high, of the same character as Tabon. A reef of rocks makes out to the westward from Pinto, the northwest- ern point of the island, for ^ mile, and terminates in three rocks, which only uncover at low water; the bank uncovers almost entirely. Eight hundred and seventy yards from this point there is only 3 fathoms of water. Between this bank and Lami banks the channel is one mile wide, with 35 fathoms of water, muddy bottom.
The passage between Quenu and Galbuco islands is clear. Vessels pai^sing through it must keep in mid-channel, steering due east. Martin point is cleaner than the southern points of Galbuco, but it must on no account be brought to bear to the northward of east.
The eastern and southeastern points of Quenu are foul to a distance of 330 yards ; from there the water is very deep. On the southern point, Eumen, there is a small chapel.
Quenu is a small, picturesque, and fertile island. It produces pota- toes, apples, grain, strawberries, and cattle; but the island is poor, as it is badly cultivated. It is entirely cleared of wood ; firewood is imported, and dear.
Galbuco is a small, highly cultivated island, and has the same aspect as the preceding ones. In connection with the island Quihua and the continent it forms Caicaen channel. The banks off the town and the point reduce the navigable portion to 225 yards in width. The NE. shore of the island, called Pecuta, where the town is built, uncovers for a distance of 200 yards. Olose outside of this low- water mark there
CHIDGUAPI ISLAND— HUITO INLET. 223
is 6 fathoms of water, and beyond the depths increase to 17 and 24 fathoms.
■
Anchorage. — Vessels anchor ^ mile NE. of the town of Galbnco, with the entrance of Hnito inlet nearly shut in, in 15 fathoms of water; bottom fine sand mixed with mud.
The town of Oalbuco has deteriorated considerably since the founda- tion of the colony at Port Montt. It is about 26 to 30 feet above the sea, and built on very uneven ground. Mail steamers to and from Port Montt call at Galbuco.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Galbuco at Ih. 22m. ; sxiiings rise from 15 to 20 feet.
Chidguapi island is low and almost entirely under cultivation Between its western part and Quenu the average depth is 30 fathoms. The island is from 80 to 100 feet high and is divided into two parts. The ground is very much cut up and the shores are alternately low and high; there are isolated rocks 440 yards from its western point. The island has been cleared of wood and no cattle are raised on it.
Fulnqni island is the largest and most eastern of the islands between the Ghacao narrows and Beloncavi sound. It is thickly wooded; on the eastern side the patches of clear land are very few, but on the other side, where the land is lower and swampy, they are more numerous. The south point is low and rises gradually to a ridge 300 feet high, which traverses the island from north to south near the eastern shore.
There are four bays on the western coast of the island : Ghope bay, the southern one, has anchorage in the entrance with good holding ground. Ghauquiar bay, about J mile north of Ghope bay, has 14 fath- oms at the entrance and 10 fathoms, mud, at the head of it. Quinched bay, east of Ghaullin island, and Puluqui bay, just north of it, are blocked by shoals. The inhabitants of Puluqui are occupied in fishing, in cuttiDg wood, and in cultivating potatoes, wheat, flax, and grass. The island is thickly wooded, the inhabitants are scattered over it, and there is no center of population. The agent of the government lives at Ghechil.
Chaullin is a small island opposite the estuary of Huito and about one mile to the NE. of the town of Galbuco. It is low, scantily wooded, and abounds in shellfish. The want of fresh water prevents the culti- vation of this fertile island.
Huito inlet is about 800 yards wide at the entrance, and extends from Port Galbuco in a W, NW., and northerly direction about 4 miles, with a depth of 18 fathoms at its entrance, decreasing gradually to 3^ fathoms at the distance of one mile inside and nearly abreast of El Eosario on the north shore, oft* which and the first projecting point on the south shore of the inlet are banks extending out, narrowing the channel to about 200 yards across. After passing the shoal water off El Eosario the depth increases to 20 fathoms; from thence it decreases gradually to the head of the inlet.
224 ANCUD GULF.
Anchorage. — A vessel may anchor in mid-channel just inside the entrance of Haito inlet in 14 to 17 fathoms. There is also anchorage to the westward of El liosario in from 12 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom.
Water can be taken in at the many springs or from the torrent at the bottom of the inlet. This inlet is gloomy, thickly wooded, and bordered by steep hills. There are some few cnltivated spots, near which huts are built. Northward, and near the neck, is El Bosario, consisting of a few small houses around a chapel.
Rulo inlet. — About one mile NE. of Pelu point, the northern point of Huito inlet, is Metrencue point, near which there is a small dry rock; around this Eulo inlet opens, having at its entrance a width of 1^ miles, its depth being nearly 2 miles. It is surrounded by hills of moderate height, which are cultivated. This bay is somewhat shoal. There is 5^ fathoms at the entrance and about 3 at its head. The interior lagoon is almost entirely dry. On entering the inlet vessels must keep close to Metrencue point to avoid the bank of San Agustin, which makes out from the SE. point of the bay.
Tetttii island. — Tautil island has a mean breadth of 105 feet. The ground is level and favorable for agriculture. It is about 72 feet high. Its western coast is cut up and near it are many detached rocks. It containB drinkable water and several hiits.
The coasts of the island are flat and rocky. The shores on the east- em part uncover to a distance of 200 yards, and on the NW. extremity 535 yards. To the SE., in the direction of San Eamon point, or in the narrowest part of tlie channel, a bank makes out about 328 yards to the middle of the channel. At its edge is 3 fathoms at low water.
This island lies in the passage between the continent and Puluqui, where it forms two channels.
The channel on the side of the continent is narrow and shoal, and remains dry on its southern portion from half tide. No vessel can pass through it. A tongue of sand and pebbles unites this island with San Agufiitin. The remainder of the channel is formed by low and stony beaches, and at its northern entrance there is a bank of detached rocks, which is awash at low water and must be avoided by boats which may attempt this passage.
Calbuco channel shoals gradually between Puluqui island and the main, and in the narrowest part, between the north point of Puluqui and Tautil islet, where it is about ^ mile wide, there are 3^ fathoms in mid-channel, but at 200 yards from St. Eamon point there are 6 to 6 fathoms; in hauling round the point it then deepens to 8 and 16 fathoms. Vessels bound to Port Montt from Ancud generally use this channel, but they should at all times pass westward of ChauUin island, for the pasisage east of that island is unsafe.
Centinela (Soldado) point, the southeastern point of Puluqui, is low, shingly, and thickly wooded; the highland rises about 200 yards inshore, and a flat extends 200 yards from the point. About one mile
BELONCAVI SOUND — HUELMO ISLAND 225
to the northward of the point there is a small cove, the entrance of which is very narrow and too shallow for a boat after half tide; bat inside it is about ^ mile across, with 8 fathoms in one part.
Reloncavi sound, in the NE. part of Ancnd gulf, extends 20 miles to the northward, and is aboat 12 miles across from east to west. The Sound has three entrances. The first is the strait of Tautil just described; the second is between the island Queullin and Nao islet; the principal one, however, is the strait between Centinela point and Queullin, which is 2 miles wide. In the strait between Centinela x>oint and Queullin there is no bottom with 60 fathoms, and no bottom in the Sound with 120 fathoms, except in the vicinity of the islands and banks. Generally speaking, vessels anchor under the lee of the islands or along the coast on either side, according to the wind. The tide runs from 1 to 2^ knots in the strait between Puluqui and Queullin, accord- ing to the age of the moon ; in the narrowest part there are some eddies.
Guar island is separated from the continent by the Guar passage, which is one mile wide. Its NW. x)oint is formed by the small island Mallina, united to it by a narrow bank of pebbles, which uncovers at one-third ebb tide. Mallina rises gradually toward the northward and terminates in a cliff. It is inhabited and cultivated. From its NE. part a bank makes out which is dry at low water. It abounds in shell- fish and is the rendezvous of the fishermen of the vicinity.
On the SE. side of the Guar island are two inlets, named, respec- tively, Ghipue and Ghanqui, affording anchorage, but in rather deep water.
Quetrulauquen inlet on the north coast, and on the other side of Mal- lina, and Oolhue inlet on the NW. coast are suitable for boats only.
Dangers. — San Jos6 shoal lies If miles to the northward of Queullin, with the clear space of about 3 miles between it and Puluqui island. The shoal dries at low spring tides.
Pucari shoal, which dries in the middle upward of 6 feet at low water, lies 2 miles south of the east extreme of Guar island. The neighborhood of this shoal has not been closely examined, but the local pilots state that Eosario shoal and Pucari shoal are identical. The passage between Pucari shoal and Guar island is 1,200 yards wide.
Janequeo shoaL— At 4^ miles S. 68^ E. (S. 86^ E. mag.) of Bedonda point, or in the direction of and nearly midway to Oaicura islands at the entrance of Eeloncavi inlet, is the Janequeo shoal, but its exact position is not known.
Huelmo bay is to the northward of the point of the same name. The largest vessel can enter it. The surrounding hills attain an eleva- tion of 180 to 230 feet, and some streams of excellent water run from them. The shores are low and rocky, and there are some houses.
Huelmo island is at low water connected with the continent on the west side. Sloops and large boats can pass through the channel at
1943— No. 89 15
I 1 M I
226 ANCUD GULF.
high water. The northern extremity is high and wooded ; the south coast is more even. From it a chain of reefs extends to the eastward for i mile, and ends in a dark-colored rock called Lobos, which is dry at half tide. Between it and the coast is another rock above water called Huelmo. It is of a whitish color, inclined to the westward, and is always uncovered. It resembles a boat under sail.
Uque bay. — ^The unexplored bay of Ilque is between Gapacho and Ilque points. It is surrounded by hills from 200 to 215 feet high, on which are some houses. The chapel of Ilque is at the head of this bay.
Ilque point — It is presumed that Ilque i>oint was confounded with Gapacho point on the old charts. A chain of rocks, uncovered at low water^ extends from its eastern part for about i mile.
Anchorage of Hueqaillahna. — To the northward of point Ilque a large bay opens. Its shores are sloping and covered with bowlders. The opening of the bay is 3^ miles wide and nearly 2 miles long. In its S W. part is the anchorage of Huequillahue.
Maillen island. — There is a passage between the main and this island, but shoal patches lie off its SE. and J^W. points.
Gapiraguapi islet lies i mile south of Maillen, with which it is connected by a sand bank, dry at low water.
The channel between Maillen and Panitao point is clear and safe; the least water in mid-channel is 5 fathoms.
Port Montt — ^At 3^ miles north of Maillen is Tenglo island, sep- arated from the coast by a narrow passage, at the north end of which is Port Montt, a prosperous town established by the Ghilean Govern- ment in 1853. The anchorage is good, but open to the southward.
The least water in the channel is 2 fathoms, but about the middle of it a rocky shoal extends from the island, which, together with a sharp turn, makes its navigation by ships undesirable. At the east end of the channel is a good beac|,^ing place named El Dique.
This port is only 15 miles from the German colony on the banks of the Llanquihue lake, of which it has become the seaport. The Pacific Steam Navigation Gompany's steamers call here every month.
The town of Port Montt in 1885 contained about 3,000 inhab- itants. The principal export is timber for building purposes. There is telegraphic communication with Valparaiso; also with Ancud.
Pier. — A pier is constructed near the center of the town at the west' end of the plaza. It is a convenient landing for boats and can be used at low water.
Light — A fixed red light is shown from the landing pier head. It is visible 3 miles.
Anchorage. — H. M. S. Shearwater anchored on the bank, which extends i mile southward from the town in 17 fathoms, fine dark sand. The bank is very steep-to, and should be approached with caution, for the beach at low-water springs dries more than 200 yards, and then suddenly drops in 7, 10, and 15 fathoms j and should the anchor be let
PORT MONTT — DIRECTIONS. 227
go in less than 15 fathoms with a long scope of cable out the vessel would probably tail onto the beach with southerly winds.
The mark for being on the bank, and a good one for anchorage, is the low shingle beach at the entrance of the little harbor (formed by the KE. end of Tenglo and the main) touching the dark house to the southward of it. This little harbor has 5 fathoms in it, fine sandy bottom, and is sheltered from all winds. The Pacific Steamship Navi- gation Company's steamers always anchor in it, and beach their vessels for repairs, etc. There is not room for moderate-sized vessels to swing, consequently they must make fast astern with a hawser to the shore.
H. M. S. Topaze in 1869 moored in the passage between Tenglo island and the main, and remained with a hawser to the shore, having room to swing one way.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Montt at 48m. 5 springs rise 18 to 20 feet, neaps rise 14 to 15 feet.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions and water can be obtained in large quantities, but there are no ships' stores or coal for steamers.
Directions. — Chacao narrows to Port Montt — ^There are two routes between Ghacao strait and Port Montt, one outside and the other inside of the islands.
The one outside of the islands, to the south of Tabon and through the strait between Puluqui and QueuUin, is very inconvenient on account of the fogs, squalls, and rains which shut in the shore. Amnistia bank, south of Tabon, and the banks in the center of the gulf of Eeloncavi, badly explored and doubtfully located, are serious obstructions to this navigation. Sailing vessels alone are forced to make this tedious passage.
The inside route is recommended as preferable, but a pilot should be taken either at Ancud or Montt. Steamers can pass between Abtao and the continent through the Abtao channel. The buoys recently placed in the channel between Abtao and Lagartija render this channel preferable. The track used by steamers after clearing the narrows is through Lagartija channel, between Abtao and Lagartija to the north of Lami banks; then between Calbuco and Quenu islands, to the town of Calbuco, but at high water between Calbuco island and the main; then along the NW. side of Puluqui island, between it and Tautil island, and along the west side of Guar island to Port Montt, passing east of Maillen and Tenglo islands,
Reloncavi inlet is deep throughout, but has good anchorage in Sotomo bay, also at the head of the inlet in Ealun bay in from 14 to 19 fathoms, mud. Violent squalls come off the high land.
At the north entrance of the inlet is a hill, called the Morro del Horno; it is the beginning of a perpendicular shore bordered by moun- tains, which are all overlooked by the double peak of Cuitue. The shore is cut by inaccessible small creeks, and trends first to the east- ward, then to the NE. The sides of the mountains are covered with a
228 ANCUD GULF.
thick forest of alerce. Morro Ohico is a small poiut which forms the southern entrance of the inlet of Beloncavi.
Sotomo bay. — Aboat 15 miles from the entrance of Beloncavi inlet and on the western shore is Sotomo bay, where a vessel may anchor between Toro and Observation cays, in aboat 30 fathoms, mad bottom ^ mile offshore.
Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, at Sotomo bay at 55m. ; springs rise 18 feet.
Allien island. — Farther to the southward is the Aalen channel, formed by Aulen island and the continent. It is nearly dry daring the ebb of the equinoctial springs; in some places it has a width of 300 yards, but it contracts greatly at its southern entrance. The island is nearly 2 miles in circumference, is low and wooded, and has at its northern extremity a bank of 550 yards extent.
To the southward of Aulen is Garamufiien cove, which can be used by boats. The point, which is the southern limit of the cove, is extended by a bank 650 yards.
Allien or Trentelhue point, which is 2 miles SW. of Aulen island, is the western extremity of the continent. It ends in a narrow tongue of sand, which uncovers at low water, and is joined to an islet called Nao.
Nao islet — It is dangerous to approach Nao islet from the north- ward ; its length is 430 yards from east to west, and its breadth 275 yards from north to south. In connection with Aulen point it forms an extended anchorage, which is sheltered from SW. winds.
The channel between Nao and QueuUin is clear. It is about f mile wide,, and vessels of any size can pass through it.
QueuUin island is to the westward of Kao; the western part of this island and Puluqui form a clear channel 2 miles wide, which leads to the entrance of the gulf of Beloncavi.
Coast of Gualaihue. — ^The Gualaihue coast extends between Aulen point and the estuary of Oomau ; it inclines rapidly to the SE., and, like that of Oontao, is low and wooded. About IJ miles from Aulen point is Eolecha cove, and farther to the southward Queten cove. The latter, which is sheltered from north and south winds, offers a good temporary anchorage for all vessels.
About 3 miles farther to the SE. is Ohauchil point, from which a bank projects 530 yards 5 it abounds in shellfish, and is the resort of fisher- men. From Ohauchil the coast inclines a little to the east, forming the coves of Lleniman and Ghenua, which are completely open to the south ^ in the former the tide recedes nearly J mile. Poyeguapi point is rocky.
Santo Domingo bank lies off Lleniman cove about IJ miles from the coast; it only uncovers at low- water springs; the part which is then dry has an extent of about 330 yards; it is formed of sand and round stones. The channel between the bank and the continent has a depth of about 24 fathoms in the middle*
COMAU INLET — ^POET PALENA. 229
cove is at the entrance of the inlet of Gomau and to the eastward of Gaalaihne point.
Comau or Leteu inlet. — At Onalaihue point, the northern point of the entrance of Comau, a group of small islands commences, through which it is said there is a passage, as also some interior ports; but the proper passage is between the island Llancahue and Morro Gomau, the southern point of the inlet, and either to the north or the south of the small island Liliguapi. This island is clean, but a little over J mile to the eastward of it are the Ballena rocks, which are above high water, and are dangerous for those who take the northern or Marilmo channel; to vessels taking the southern or Gomau channel it is less dangerous.
After passing the Ballena rocks, Gahuelmo inlet is seen to the KE., and to the SE. Gomau inlet. The latter is 18 miles in extent. From Liliguapi it extends SE. for 15 miles and ends in a funnel-shaped bay 3 miles in diameter; its depth is 22 fathoms. In the NE. corner, at the head of this bay, vessels can anchor in 15 fathoms, off a sand beach, to the southward of which the river Bodudahue empties.
Vessels can also anchor in Leptepu creek.
Coast to southward of Comau inlet. — ^From Gomau inlet the description of the coast is taken from Moraleda, and therefore is doubt- ful. The high coast runs from WSW. to point Ghulao, then to the south, with several bends. It is indented by the inlet Eenihue, which extends into the coast about 6 or 8 miles. Thirty-five miles from Ghu- lao point is point Lieuleu, which lies opposite the east point of Talcan island, and is separated from it by a channel hardly 2 miles wide, with a depth of 85 fathoms; bottom coral and broken shell.
Mount Vilcun is about 2^ miles south of point Lieuleu and in the shape of a sugarloaf. It can be seen over the SE. extremity of Talcan; is thickly wooded to the summit and rises directly at the edge of the sea. To the southward of this mountain is a deep inlet with a small island before its entrance.
At 13 miles east of Mount Yilcun is the volcano of Ghayapiren, 8,000 feet high; 26 miles SSW. of the latter is the mountain Gorcovado, 7,510 feet high ; and 18 miles south of this is Yanteles, 6,725 feet high . These mountains are from 6 to 12 miles from the coast. From abreast of them the coast trends nearly south for 21 miles to Gape Gorcovado, where there is a temporary anchorage.
Tictoc bay is 30 miles farther south. According to Moraleda's charts it is formed between a small archipelago and a small indentation in the continent. To reach it when coming from the north the coast of the continent must be followed, leaving all the small islands to star- board. Gare must be taken to avoid some rocks in the channel J mile from the continent, and to pass close to the islet which is opposite the foul point of Tictoc. The anchorage is in 22 fathoms, soft mud, under the northern part of the continent.
Fort Falena. — Guala point separates the bay of Tictoc from the
230 CORCOVADO GULP.
inlet of Palena. This tortuous inlet is about 5 miles long, but the per- fectly sheltered part is only 3 miles long and i mile wide. All its NE. shore is bordered by high mountains^ sandy at the summits, and cov- ered with snow. Its S W. shore is an immense swamp, partially covered duriug high water. The anchorage is beyond the first turn, about 3 miles from the entrance, in 16 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom. Every- where that it was examined the SW. coast was found to be shoal 400 yards out, whereas the N'E. shore is steep-to.
Port Santo Domingo. — From Palena the coast is foul to 4 miles from the shore. It trends SS W, for 20 miles, where a channel which is formed by the large island Refujio and the continent commences. In it are two groups of islands. About 3 miles from the entrance is Port Santo Domingo, where vessels anchor in 25 fathoms, 400 yards from the shore, behind a swampy point which is often inundated during the rainy season or during north winds. Vessels can moor head and stern a little farther in, between an island called Long island and the conti- nent, under Calvario peak, in Of fathoms. The coast of the island is clear. The channel is only 200 yards wide. There is a shoal with 3 J fathoms water over it.
The description (taken from the surveys of Moraleda) of this part of the coast ends here.
Tidal ivave. — The tidal wave from the oceain sets against Ghiloe island from the westward. The body of water impelled round the south end of this large island drives the waters of Corcovado gulf north- ward in those of Ancud gulf, at the NW. part of which they meet the stream through Ghacao narrows. Very little stream is felt in the middle of either of these gulfs, but there is a considerable rise and fall, viz, from 10 to 20 feet, and more or less stream along shore and among the islands.
About one mile south of Tres Cruces point, at the eastern entrance of Chacao narrows, there is a stony point, to the southeastward of which the tide is scarcely felt; and in Manao bay, just south of the stony point, there is no stream. Abreast of that bay the north and south tidal stream usually meet.
The tides on the east coast of Ohiloe island are irregular, being much influenced by the winds. The time of high water at Castro and other places is earlier in going to the southward; yet at Huildad, which is more than 30 miles south of Castro, it was high water three-fourths of an hour later than at Castro, but at the time it was blowing a heavy NW. gale at Huildad. The average time of high water at full and change in the north part of the archipelago is probably about Ih., which decreases gradually to about 15m. near the south end. It appears to be seldom regular, and was found to vary half an hour in two following tides. The rise was also very irregular, as the tides often rose higher when they were taking off. The night tides were always higher than the day tides during the Beagleh visits.
PORT HUITE — TIDES. 231
In Port Huite the rise and fall on one occasion at neap tides was 18 feet, and the next springs it only rose 16 feet. By the marks on the shore the rise and fall at some high tides had been above 24 feet. The greatest rise and fall is at this place, and it is the best in the gnlf for heaving down, or for cutting docks. The only other place that would answer well for that purpose is the outer part of Huildad inlet, on the west side of which there are 9 fathoms close to the shore, and the coast is composed of rocks, which would answer better than the sand and ^ shiDgle of Port Huite, but the rise and fall is only 15 feet at spring
tides, which would be too small for large vessels. Port Huite may therefore be considered preferable.
CHAPTER V.
COAST OF CHILE-CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
(H. O. Chart No. 1315.)
DirectionB. — Oontinuing along the coast to the northward of Chiloe, the islets Dona Sebastiana and Garelmapu should be avoided, as the tides sometimes produce violent eddies near them, and when the swell from seaward meets the ebb tide it produces an ugly short sea to the NW. of these islands.
Vessels should keep close to Corona head and avoid Sebastiana. By avoiding a sand bank i mile SE. of the eastern x>oint of Dona Sebastiana there is plenty of water between it and Ohocoi head; ves- sels can also pass to the eastward of the Garelmapu islets, but the westerly swell is so heavy and the tide so strong that the passage should not be attempted without a local pilot, a good working breeze, and a favorable tide. These islands should not be approached to the westward nearer than 3 J miles.
Coronades gulf. — Between Huechucucui head and Godoi head, at 15 miles north of it, the coast recedes and forms Goronades gulf.
Coast. — About 6 miles to the eastward of the westernmost of the Garelmapu islands is the entrance of the MauUin river, opening between Morro Amortajado and Quenuir point.
To the southward of the entrance to Maullin river is the peninsula of Amortajado, of a yellowish color and peculiar appearance. The land, which from Ghocoi head is covered with small hills, is low at the com- mencement of this peninsula, after which it rises rapidly for the first third of its length, when, after falling again, it rises and ends in a pyramidal promontory, vertical toward the sea, bare of vegetation, and stony at its extremity. The top of the peninsula is covered with bushes. A chain of rocks extends from it about 300 yards, the last of which is under water. The extremity of Amortajado is 8 miles from Ghocoi head.
Fuelma bay. — Doubling Amortajado to the eastward, the bay of Puelma is to the south; it has from 3f to 7 fathoms in its entrance, and shoals rapidly toward the land. A small vessel can anchor tem- porarily in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, to the eastward of and as close as possible to the northern point of the peninsula. To the SE. are some coal mines, near which flows the San Pedro Nolasco river.
232
PANGAL POINT — GODOI POINT. 233
Pangal point. — On the south side of Maullin river is a low sand beach 2J miles long, which ends in Pangal point. This beach, behind which are masses of sand and plains which extend to the foot of the Cordillera of the Andes, is entirely exposed to the swell of the ocean. The breakers commence 400 yards and often farther from the shore, the water being shoal to a distance of J mile.
Maullin river empties in the NE. part of the Coronades galf, and is one of the most important rivers in the Chilean republic, having its source in the Llanquihue lake, near the foot of the Andes. The river is navigable for 26 miles from its mouth for vessels of not more than 9^ feet draft, but small boats with short oars can go 20 miles beyond. The approach to the river from seaward is a shallow, wild place, exposed to a heavy, breaking sea, and unfit for vessels except during fine weather.
Maullin is a small town 2^ miles &om the south entrance point. Timber is exported in the small coasters, which are the only vessels that enter Maullin river.
Changue point, Nl^W. of Pangal point, limits the interior entrance to the Maullin river, whose navigable breadth is contracted between this point and Pangal point by a chain of rocks above water. The two southern and principal rocks are called the Dos Amigos. Between these and Pangal point are some submerged rocks which obstruct the channel, which is here but J mile wide, and has 2 fathoms at low water.
The Quenuir river empties into the Maullin, between Changue and Quenuir points; its volume of water influences considerably the current at the entrance of Maullin river.
False Godoi point, north of Morro Amortajado, is marked by a small islet, Javier Igor, 400 yards to the westward. It is of a yellow gray color.
Fort G-odoL — From Godoi point the coast, turning eastward, forms a large semicircular bay, known as Port Godoi. It is badly protected from the prevailing southerly winds, but accessible in fine weather. The landing place is in the NW. corner of the bay.
At about 1 J miles northeastward of Godoi point is a precipitous head named Varillasmo, from which a sandy spit extends eastward with shallow water, which should not be approached nearer than one mile. The anchorage is in 4^ fathoms, gray sand. Wood, water, fish, etc., can be procured at the houses near the lauding place. In Port Godoi strong southerly and westerly winds cause a heavy sea, which breaks with great violence and makes the anchorage dangerous.
Oodoi point is distant about 5 miles from Carelmapu islets, and has several sandy beaches and small rocky points in the vicinity, the whole of which are unapproachable on account of a heavy surf. Eocks and breakers extend 1,200 yards south of the point. At f mile S. 71^ E. (S. 890 E. mag.) of the point is Solitaria rock, always above water. At 1^ miles N. 60^ W. (N. 78° W. mag.) are two sunken rocks which
234 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
break only during stormy weather. This point should, therefore, not be approached under 2^ miles.
Estaquillas point, at 7| miles from Godoi point, is steep, and promi- nent on account of the islets and rocks at its extremity. One mile from this x)oint is a bay which bears the same name. It is full of islets and rocks, rising like columns from the bottom, and besides being exx)Osed to prevailing winds is of no use to vessels seeking shelter.
Parga cove, 1^ miles to the southward of Estaquillas point, is of little importance, being only of small extent, with a foul entrance, and not more than 65 yards wide. According to the opinion of pilots it is sheltered from all winds, but being scarcely seen from the offing can not be entered without their assistance. South of Parga cove is a small cove with a sandy shore, named Playa del Garbon, where boats can land in moderate weather with wind from the southward, but, like the preceding, the assistance of a pilot is indispensable, as the entrance is full of rocks that are awash.
Seams of excellent coal are found in the neighborhood.
Llico bay. — Three miles northward of Estaquillas point is Llico bay, taking the name of the river which empties itself there. The bay has from 10 to 12 fathoms in the center, stony bottom, is exposed to a heavy swell, and is without shelter.
Llico river is said to be navigable for a distance of 20 to 22 miles, and contains plenty of fish. The bar at its mouth breaks heavily, and can not be approached with boats of any description.
Capitanes point — The coast from Llico bay trends !N1^W. 9 miles to abreast of Parga rock; the whole distance is very rugged and hilly, with high mountains covered with larch trees inland. Oapitanes point is 4J miles NNW. of Parga rock. At the extremity of the point is a small peninsula the cliffs of which ai*e of a yellowish color, having the appearance of an island when seen from the south. It is the most con- spicuous point to the southward of cape Quedal. Coasters recommend it as being the best point to make for during westerly winds when bound to Ancud. From Capitanes point south the coast has a more rugged appearance than that to the northward. One mile off shore the depth varies from 14 to 24 fathoms, fine white rock. There, are several small streams along this part of the coast.
Cape QuedaL — From Capitanes point the coast continues for 8 miles in a northerly direction, with a slight curve, as far as cape Quedal. The whole coast is rugged, but without any ofiflying danger. Cape Quedal, the most prominent point along this part of the coast, is high, precipitous, and clear. At J mile distant the depth varies from 18 to 20 fathoms. Northeast of the cape is a small cove with a sandy beach, where two streams flow into it. The entrance is much exposed, and inaccessible on account of the heavy surf.
San Pedro point, at 4 miles NE. of cape Quedal, is moderately high, with sunken rocks extending 300 yards from it. At J mile west-
SAN PEDRO BAY — CAPE COMPASS. 235
ward of the point are the Farallones de San Pedro rocks, having between them and the shore a clear channel with depths of 7 to 13 fathoms.
Anchorage. — The most sheltered anchorage on the coast between Ancud and Corral will be found on the east side of San Pedro rocks, in 7 to 8 fathoms, sand. Except with the wind between NW. and West, no difficulty would be experienced in leaving the anchorage.
San Pedro bay, between cape Quedal and cape San Antonio, is 7 miles wide and 2 miles deep, with moderate depths, but it is exposed to the swell from NW. The Lliuco river flows into the NE. corner of this bay.
Manzano cove, immediately east of San Pedro point,, is small and only fit for coasters. The shore is fringed with rock and kelp.
It has been stated that vessels in this cove have ridden out violent gales. During summer the sea is not so heavy and the wind not so strong, being broken by cape San Antonio. Next east of cape Hua- yusca is the cove of the same name, affording good landing. A rock and small shoal lie at the entrance. The cove east of Huayusca cove is inaccessible on account of a constant and heavy swell.
Cape San Antonio, 7 miles NNE. of cape Quedal, projects only a short distance^ it is high, and covered with vegetation. The rocks facing the shore are of a dark gray color, and the hills behind range from 1,150 to 2,300 feet in height. A ridge of rocks extends south- westward for about J mile, with sunken rocks at the extremity. Along the shore for 2 miles northward are numerous rocks appearing above water, some of which lie 400 yards off.
Condor cove. — About 10 miles north of cape San Antonio is Con- dor point, NE. of which is Condor cove.
The north and south shores of the cove are rocky, steep, and well wooded, but inaccessible on account of the heavy surf. North of a sandy beach, near a round rock, there is a good landing place for boats. In the center of the entrance is from 20 to 22 fathoms, diminishing to 10 fathoms inside and 4 fathoms near the beach. The cove affords shelter from southerly winds, but is exposed to winds from the westward.
The best anchorage in Condor cove for steamers is in 9 to 10 fathoms, and for sailing ships a little farther outside, in order to be in a position to weigh from at the first signs of bad weather. The holding ground is good, but vessels should on no account attempt to ride out a gale from between north and west during the winter season, nor rely too much upon the strength of their cables.
Chalguaco cove and river are a mile north of Condor cove. The river forms a lagoon to the southward, separated from Condor cove by a narrow isthmus. The banks of the river are well wooded and produce excellent timber.
Cape Compass, 3J miles north of Condor point, is the most con- spicuous headland between cape Quedal and Galera point.
236 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
Gape Compass is rocky, precipitous, and well wooded near the som- mit. At i mile off this cape are depths of 12 to 17 fathoms, sand.
Ranu cove is immediately east of cape Oompass, where the coast forms a sudden bend, the opening being 3 miles across from north to south and one mile deep. Inside, in the middle of the cove, are three small rocks. In the center is a high, steep point, with Hueyelhne river flowing through a sandy beach close northward of it, and Ranu river through a similar beach to the southward. The north part of the cove is foul, the breakers there extending more than i mile off shore, but the south part offers some shelter to ships during southerly winds in 10 to 11 fathoms, sand, with cape Compass bearing S. 79^ W. (S. 61° W. mag.), and the rock N, 30^ W. (N. 48° W. mag.). There is no landing in any part of the cove.
Muicolpue point — From Banu cove the land trends about !NXE. 6 miles to Muicolpue point.
Muicolpue cove, just to the eastward of Muicolpue point and nearly 9 miles north of Banu cove, affords good shelter for vessels of any draft during southerly winds, but is quite exposed to westerly winds, which cause a heavy sea. The anchorage is in 11 or 12 fathoms, sand, and the holding ground good, with the entrance of Muicolpue river on the southern shore bearing about SE. distant i mile.
The hills in the rear are of moderate height and well wooded. The landing place is in the southern part of the cove. The point which protects it from the southward is rocky, with some stones near it.
Manzano bay is the next bight north of Muicolpue point. The east- ern shore consists of yellow sand, with a projecting rocky point in the center, and some rocks near it. A large river empties into the north- ern, and another, a little smaller, into the southern part, but both are inaccessible.
The depth of water at the anchorage varies from 7 to 15 fathoms, with good holding ground of sand.
The roadstead, being badly sheltered and the landing dangerous, can only be used when the sea is calm, which seldom occurs.
Bandera bay is a little over 6 miles from Manzano cove. The SW. point of the bay, which is precipitous, with some rocks lying a short distance off, is named Pucatrihue point.
The bay is open from NN W. to S W., and the anchorage exposed to the ocean swell even in fine weather. The depth of water varies from 18 fathoms in the middle to 7 fathoms near the shore, the bottom fine white sand with large stones, particularly in the south part of the bay, which affords the best shelter. Lauding is dangerous on account of the heavy surf.
At 1 J miles south of Pucatrihue point is a small cove with a river flowing into it. This cove appears to offer shelter for boats.
Covadonga rock, on which the sea breaks occasionally, is 2^ miles S. 130 W. (S. 50 E. mag.) of Pucatrihue point, and IJ miles S. 86© W.
MILAGEO COVE BUENO BIVER. 237
(S, 68^ W. mag.) of Pulame point. At J mile north, south, and west of the rock 27 and 28 fathoms was obtained, with rocky bottom.
Milagro cove, at about 7 miles northward of Pucatrihue point and 5 J miles south from the south point of Bueno river, has an isolated con- ical rock, named El Farallon, § mile westward, which offers a good land- mark.' This cove is sheltered from the southward, but the anchorage is not good. The Zehuilauquen river enters the sea on the eastern sandy shore, but is not navigable, although of considerable width.
The best anchorage is in 9 fathoms, sand, with Milagro point bearing S. 130 W. (S. 50 E. mag.), and the east part of the sandy shore S. 46° E. (S. 640 E. mag.). In the KE. part of this cove, behind a group of low rocks, where the Trahuilco river empties, is a small cove, Trahuilco, well sheltered from SW., where water and wood can conveniently be obtained.
Three miles south of El Farallon is a small sandy cove which was not surveyed, but appears to afford shelter for coasters.
Bueno river. — To the southward of Lamehuapi point the coast trends eastward, forming a small bay, into which the Bueno river empties.
The bay is entirely unprotected against the prevailing winds and is subject to a heavy swell. The depth of water varies from 4 to 8 fathoms outside the bar, with bad holding ground. Bueno river has its source in lake Banco, at the foot of the Andes, and is notable for its depth of water. The northern point of the entrance is rocky, with some scattered stones extending nearly 100 yards off* it, narrowing the mouth of the river. The entrance is obstructed by a bar of shifting sands ^ fhe pas- sage across which, as well as the depth of water, depends upon the season. The greatest depth over the bar is 7 feet during the summer and 15 feet in the rainy season, but the heavy swell makes it unap- proachable at times. Small steamers cross the bar in fine weather and go up beyond Trumao, a distance of about 50 miles, but sailing vessels should not attempt crossing, as the current frequently runs at a rate of from 3 to 5 miles an hour.
Signals. — ^A white flag at the signal masthead will indicate that the bar is clear.
A man stationed on shore, holding a white flag raised in a vertical position, that the channel will be found in the center of the bar. The same flag inclined to the right, that the channel is to the north; and inclined to the left, that the channel is to the south.
A red flag hoisted on the signal mast indicates that the bar is impass- able.
A blue flag with white diagonal stripes on the signal mast indicates wait for high water.
If the signals are made from a vessel on the river, the vessel entering must steer for her, as she will be in the direction of the channel.
Ko vessel should attempt to enter until the signals are made.
238 OHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
Lamehuapi point is 2^ miles north of Baeno river. To this point and as far as Lamehuapi cove a ragged coast trends north, with high wooded hills iu the rear. One mile from the shore the depth of water varies from 17 to 20 fathoms, fine black sand.
Lamehuapi cove is well sheltered from the soath, bat quite exposed to westerly winds. It is spacious, has a uniform depth, with good anchorage for many vessels in 6 to 9 fathoms, black sand. East of a conical hill there is excellent landing during southerly winds, and it is the only x)lace which can be approached. The cove can be made out by a conspicuous wooden building with a stream to the eastward of it above the beach.
HueicoUa cove, about 5 miles northward of Lamehuapi cove, is of moderate depth, varying between 6 and 7 fathoms, sand. It is of little importance on account of its being exposed to westerly winds. Hueicolla point, on the south side of the cove, however, offers some shelter from southerly winds; J mile !N^. 5o W. (N. 23° W. mag.) of it is an isolated rock, on which the sea constantly breaks, and in the chan- nel between this rock and the point is 6 fathoms water. The land- ing place is not good. East of the anchorage is the mouth of Hueicolla river, which is not navigable. Two miles north of the cove is a small rocky point with 17 to 18 fathoms; 600 yards from it, to the NE. of this point, is the mouth of Oolun river.
(H. O. Chart No. 1314.)
G-alera point, called by the Indians Buchuchen, at 5 miles l^TW. of Hueicolla cove, is the most prominent point on the coast of Val- diviaj it is low, wooded, slightly undulating, covered with a thick rank vegetation, and has rocky projections extending about 200 yards from the shore without offlying dangers. The point is backed by the Val- divia hills, three in number, 1,550 feet above the level of the sea, form- ing good landmarks. South of Galera point the coast forms a slight bend eastward, with a black sandy shore, which is nearly straight, for 4 miles in a SSE. direction.
Light — The lighthouse, a tower 62 feet high and painted white, stands on the most projecting extremity on the south side of the point, and exhibits from an elevation of 180 feet a fixed and flashing white light, showing a flash every minute, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 22 miles.
Quadie cove. — Between the northern extremity of Galera point and cape Falsa, 2 miles to the northward, the land recedes, forming a bay about 800 yards deep, having in its entrance 10 to 12 fathoms, decreas- ing gradually toward the shore. Within the bay there are several rocks on which the sea breaks heavily.
Guadie cove, on the south side of this bay, is the only accessible part, having in it depths of 7 to 2^ fathoms, the latter being close to the shore. The hills in the vicinity of this cove are covered with vegetation,
VALDIVU. 239
having at the foot of them remarkable white sandy beaches, where landing may be easily effected in ordinary weather.
At the head of the cove there is a road leading through a thick wood for a distance of about 2 miles to Galera Point lighthouse; there is also a road to Port Corral, Yaldivia.
The best anchorage for a small craft in Guadie cove is in 2J fathoms, sandy bottom, near the southern white beach, in the SW. part of the cove. Large vessels having occasion to visit this place should anchor in 13 to 18 fathoms, outside aline joining Galera point and cape Falsa, but should be quite prepared to proceed to sea on the first sign of bad weather from the westward.
Firewood and good water can be obtained in Guadie cove.
Cape Falsa, or False Galera point, forms the western projection of the Yaldivia hills. There are no hidden dangers round it, beyond the stony spit above water extending about one mile seaward.
Chaihuin gap and river. — Chaihuin gap is between cape Falsa and Chaihuin point, 5 miles ENE. of it, and immediately south of Chaihuin point is the river bearing the same name. The bar at its narrow mouth can be crossed by boats in calm weather, but should not be attempted without previous knowledge of its condition. Once the bar is passed, small boats can go up the river for 15 miles with the flowing tide.
Chaihuin point is a rocky bluff with wooded hills in the rear. A rocky shoal extends 1 J miles seaward of the point. Between the point and Morro Gonzalo, 9 miles farther NE., the coast forms a slight bend with four projecting rocky points. The central and most remarkable one is named Palo Muerto, and has a shoal extending 800 yards offshore.
Soundings. — Between Port San Carlos de Ancud and Yaldivia sound- ings extend some miles into the of&ng, though the water is deep. At 2 miles offshore there is usually about 40 fathoms water, at 3 miles about 60, and at 5 miles from 70 to 90 fathoms, over a sandy and muddy bottom.
Fort of Valdivia. — From Chaihuin point the coast trends round in an easterly and northerly direction 9 miles to Morro Gonzalo, between which and Punta Juan Latorre, at about 3 miles KE. of it, lies the entrance to the port of Valdivia, which is apparently spacious and really secure, but the portion affording sheltered anchorage for large vessels is somewhat confined.
Sailing vessels bound for the port of Valdivia with SW. winds should make Galera point, but with NW. winds the land should be made about Bonifacio head. Winds between Korth and N W. frequently bring bad weather and fogs, the latter sometimes lasting two days, and appear to hang about the entrance to the port.
Making the land at night should be avoided, for a slight mist will obscure the light on Niebla bluff.
Caution. — It should be borne in mind that Chaihuin gap is said to resemble the entrance of Valdivia bay and has frequently been mistaken
240 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
for that place. However, in clear weather it can easily be distinguished, as the conical hill seen in the middle of C.^haihuin gap is much higher and more pointed than the hill in Yaldivia bay. Besides, the remark- able shape of Morro Gonzalo differs entirely from the features of the coast south of Chaihuin gap.
Morro G-onsEalo. — The southwestern entrance point of port Yaldivia is a steep, yellowish cliff, 525 feet high and covered with vegetation. At ^ mile ENE. of Morro Oonzalo is Peiia Sola, an isolated rock with- out offlying dangers, but connected to the shore by a reef and kelp. Three-quarters of a mile eastward of the head is Palo Muerto i>oint, low and rocky, with breakers extending 600 yards offshore, with 2 fathoms close-to. Between the point and the head are three small coves named Loberia, Molino, and Balleua. All are narrow and rocky, with break- ers extending more than 200 yards from the shore, but landing can be effected in them when the sea is calm.
San Carlos point, about a mile ESE. of Palo Muerto point, is the extremity of a rocky peninsula a little over 400 yards in diameter and 43 feet high, with a fort on its summit. The isthmus is low and stony, with a small cove on the east side, where landing can be effected in fine weather.
English bay. — Between Palo Muerto point and San Carlos point the coast forms a rocky bay, with 2 to 3 fathoms in the center, in which, ^ mile SW. of San Carlos, is a small, sandy beach, affording landing under favorable circumstances.
Amargos point, with a battery on it, at about one mile SE. of San Carlos point, is low and rocky, having a large detached flat rock at its extremity named PeDa del Conde.
Choromayo (Avanzada) point, at 400 yards from Amargos point, is steep and rocky; on the flat summit is a small battery, which is not easily seen from seaward.
Amargos bay. — Between the two last-mentioned points the coast forms a small bay with a sandy shore, where there is a rivulet of good water. A vessel could anchor in the bay, but would be exposed to the swell which is thrown in by WN, winds.
Atrial rock, about 200 yards off Choromayo point, is just awash at low- water neaps and about one foot above water at low-water springs, and is steep-to.
Beacon. — ^A perch surmounted by a cylinder painted red is erected on the rock, and it should be borne in mind that the ebb stream from the river sets toward it.
Laurel point is 600 yards south of Choromayo point, the coast between being rocky. At Laurel point the coast changes its direction to the westward and forms Port Corral. The rock, with 2i fathoms water over it, charted as lying 200 yards off Laurel point, is said not to exist.
Port Corral is recommended on account of its excellent shelter,
VALDIVIA. 241
affording anchorage for 25 or 30 vessels, which should, however, moor north and south, as the currents run strong. A heavy sea is said to set in during Northers. The merchant shipping lie with their sterns hauled close in, thus giving plenty of room in what would otherwise be a lim- ited space. It is one of the principal ports of the Republic. Large assorted cargoes are consigned to this port from Europe. Steamers stop here regularly, and communication with Yaldivia is carried on by river steamers.
Supplies. — Fresh and dry provisions can be obtained at moderate prices. Water is excellent and abundant in the west part of the har- bor;, also timber for shipbuilding; but coal for steamers is scarce and in limited quantities.
Beacon. — A square white beacon stands on Laurel point, and an imaginary line joining this beacon and the outer bastion of fort Corral indicates approximately the 18-foot line of soundings and the inner limit of the anchorage.
"Wharf. — A wharf about 50 yards long, extending 30 yards beyond high-water mark, is situated 200 yards SW. of Laurel i)oint, and is chiefly used by local steamers.
Light — A fixed red light, elevated 16 feet, is shown on the head of the mole at Port Corral.
•
Tres Hermanas (Mancera) bank. — This extensive bank is nearly in the center of Valdivia bay. Its western edge is about J mile from Laurel point and the same distance from fort Corral. Tha depth of water on the bank diminishes gradually, except on the south and SW., where it is deeper and steep-to. The shoalest part near the SW. edge has about one foot of water over a bottom of fine sand and shell. With NW. winds and an ebb tide the sea breaks heavily over and around the bank, and at such times no boat should attempt to cross the port. The bank is extending to the KW.
Buoy. — A buoy is moored on the northwestern edge of Tres Her- manas bank in 19 feet of water. Its position is uncertain.
Mancera island rises in the center to a hill 300 feet high. The plain surrounding the hill is cultivated and has some houses. At the north- ern extremity of the island is a village and on the north point a battery protecting the channel leading to Valdivia river.
The best landing place is at La Cal point, on the NE. side of the island, where there is a natural pier.
San Juan bay. — About IJ miles SE. from fort Corral, following a high and rocky coast, is Eania (Trinidad) point. From here the coast turns south, forming San Juan bay, about 2 miles in length, and one mile wide. The bay is of little importance to navigation. Its sides are barren and rocky. The south shore consists of sand and mud, and can only be approached at high water. The depth at the entrance of this bay is about 18 feet, diminishing to 6 feet and 3 feet i mile from the shore. Three small rivers empty into the bay, called, respectively, Eio 1943— No, 89 16
242 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
San Juan, Bio Catrileafn, and Bio de Los Llanos. The two latter are the most important and are navigable by boats.
Fronton point is steep and covered with vegetation. Some rocks extend about 200 yards off the TSW, pointy visible daring low tides. The channel between this point and Mancera island is shallow, having a rocky shoal situated eastward of the latter. This passage is only fit for vessels drawing not over 6J feet water.
Mouth of Rio Toma Qaleones. — The northern point of the entrance is Olaro point and the southern Fronton point, distant i mile from each other and a similar distance eastward of Mancera island. The former point is low, with steep, black cliffs to the westward. The center of the muddy bank, Simon Beyes, off Garbonero head, appears above water only at spring tides. Vessels drawing 10 feet can ascend the Bio Torua Galeones.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Corral at lOh. 35m. ; springs rise 5^ feet. The flowing tide generally runs at the rate of one mile an hour in mid-channel, increasing off Niebla point and Pefia del Conde to 2 miles per hour. During the rainy season, with westerly winds, the flood tide is scarcely perceptible, but the force of the ebb tide, increased by the«falling rivers, obtains a velocity of 3 to 4 miles, increasing near Morro Gonzalo to 5 and 6 miles an hour, which grad- ually decreases in its course southward, but passing round Galera point still with perceptible force.
Current. — The currents at the entrance of Valdivia bay and adja- cent coas*t are somewhat irregular, depending upon the season, tides, and prevailing winds.
Juan Latorre point, the north point of entrance of Port Valdivia, 3 miles KE. of Morro Gonzalo, is steep and rocky, with a shoal extending ^ mile from it.
Molino point, one mile SE. of Juan Latorre i)oint,is steep and fronted by stones extending 300 yards off shore. The northern extremity of Molino point is called STumpulli, and the southern is properly Molino I)oint. On the south side, where a sandy beach begins, is a landing place in fine weather. Molino point is also called Ancla point.
Niebla point is 1^ miles south of Molino point. The wide, sandy bay between has two small, i*ocky points near the center. The cliffs at Niebla point are perpendicular, of a reddish-yellow color, 115 feet high, with a level summit, and are fronted by black rocks always visible above water. The i)oint is easily recognized by the white lighthouse, the barracks, and the battery upon it. East of the point is a small cove full of rocks and named La Huairona, which is the landing place leading to the castle.
Light. — A square tower 8 feet high, painted white, stands on the western extremity of Mebla point, from which a fixed white light is exhibited at 121 feet above high water, that in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 8 miles.
VALDIVIA. 243
Semaphore. — A semaphore is erected northward of the battery on Niebla point and on the NE. side of the lighthouse.
Valdivia river. — This name applies only to that portion of the Eio Calle Oalle between Port Corral and the city of Yaldivia, and north- ward of Isla del Eei. The channel is winding, full of banks, and is navigable only for small vessels with the assistance of a local pilot. In places the banks completely bar the river and only admit the pas- sage of vessels drawing 9f feet.
Four beacons, each 13 feet high with a ball in the center, are placed on the prominent points of the sand banks below Islote islet, which is one mile south of Yaldivia city. Proceeding up the river the red beacons must be left on the port, and the black on the starboard side.
The channel east of Islote islet is the deeper, the southern entrance of which is marked by two beacons. Vessels of 9| feet draft should pass between these beacons.
Two black beacons have also been placed in Guacamayo river, one on the northern extremity of Yenados island and the other one mile to the northward of the island. Proceeding up the river these beacons must be left on the starboard side.
The positions of the beacons are altered as changes in the channel take place.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the city of Valdivia at llh. 35m. ; springs rise 4 feet.
City of Valdivia. — About 9 miles up Valdivia river, on the left bank, is the city of Valdivia, founded by Pedro de Valdivia, a follower of Pizarro, in 1552. Woods clothe every hill about the town, and all the adjacent country is hilly, the island about Valdivia ranging to 1,000 feet in height.
There is telegraphic communication with the ports of Chile.
Supplies. — Water is plentiful and provisions abundant.
Morro Bonifacio, about 8 miles north of Morro Gonzalo, is bold, and has depths of 11 to 13 fathoms at J mile off^ increasing to 25 fath- oms at a distance of 2 miles. The higher part of the head is well wooded. East of it extends a range of mountains, the Cerro de Oncol, attaining the elevation of 1,998 feet. Between Molino point and morro Bonifacio the coast forms a slight bend eastward, with three projecting points and sandy beach between them. Loncoyen point is steep and rocky, with some offlying stones northward of it. There is a bad land- ing place which bears the same name as the point. Kext follows La Mision point, with a small mound at the extremity j it is steep and rocky, like Molino point, and owes its name to a mission established there, called Mision de Jesu Cristo Oruciflcado. Korth of it is also a landing place for boatSj but it is worse than that of Loncoyen.
Between La Mision point and morro Bonifacio the coast forms a semicircle bending eastward,' with some small projecting rocky jijoints, the most conspicuous of which is Calfuco point.
244 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
Bonifieicio cove. — North of Kocara point, the NW. point of morro Bonifacio, is Bonifacio cove, which is divided in two by a rocky ledge. Neither are of importance, as the water is deep and SW. winds send in a heavy swell.
Chongnngo point, aboat 3 miles NE. of morro BonifiEMsio, is high, rocky, and wooded.
Chanchan point is 12 miles NE. of Chungaugo, and in the stretch are several points and coves, the most prominent being Jnlejie point and Ourin and Huezhui coves, but they are of no importance to naviga- tion, as they have no shelter and ire exposed to the prevailing wind.
Maiquillahne point, the next point NE., is low, but may be recog- nized by several I'ocky islets extending one mile in a NW. direction from the point, the largest of which is named Loberia islet. Bocks and breakers surround these islets, which must be approached with caution.
Maiquillahue cove, just within Maiquillahne point, is exposed to the West., NW., and North winds; nevertheless, it is well sheltered from SW. winds by the islets extending from Maiquillahue point. The best anchorage for a large vessel is in 8 fathoms, with Eonca i>oint bearing N. ICO E. (N. 2o W. mag.), and the outer rocky islet N. 78o W. (8. 84o
W. mag.).
The coasting vessels use this cove as a harbor of refuge during the southerly gales which prevail in summer.
Maiquillahue bay is about 4 miles across, between Maiquillahue point and Ronca point on the promontory of Queule; the surroundings are regular between 8 and 10 fathoms over a bottom of fine black sand.
Mehuin or Lingua river, flowing from east to west, empties itself into Maiquillahue cove, and is navigable for about 7 miles with small craft, but its course is obstructed by trunks of trees. At the mouth of the river is a bar of sand and sunken rocks, over which there is only If feet at low water. After the bar is passed, small craft may ascend to the first rapid in depths of 6 to 6 feet.
Ronca point is the steep cliflfy extremity of Queule promontory, which, when seen from the north or south, appears like an island. The southern part is called Loberia point and the northern Choros point. Martinez rock lies about 250 yards to the northward of the latter
point.
Queule bay offers an excellent anchorage east of Eonca point, over a bottom of sand, except during westerly and northerly winds. It is much frequented by steamers and sailing vessels, particularly during winter, the latter anchoring farther out in the bay.
Queule river runs for some distance nearly parallel with Tolten river, and then turns more to the southward. Its width varies from 100 to 300 yards. The tide reaches 40 miles up the river, but the cur- rent does not exceed the rate of one mile an hour. The river empties just north of Ronca point, which shelters it from the swell.
Nuigue point, 4 miles north of Ronca point, is lofty and thickly
TOLTEN RIVER — IMPERIAL RIVER. 245
wooded. Eock above water and reefs extend one mile seaward of the point, which should be given a good berth.
Coast — At l^uigue point the coast changes its character, becoming low and sandy, but with occasional cliflfs. The highlands, which to the southward of this point border the ocean, here retreat 5 or 6 miles, leaving a level and apparently fertile country as far as abreast of Mocha island. This coast for nearly 60 miles has off its whole extent compar- atively shoal soundings, 10 fathoms at 2 miles distant, 20 at 4 miles, and everywhere a sandy bottom. A heavy surf breaks everywhere, even in fine weather.
The summits of the Andes are visible for a great distance northward and southward whenever the weather is clear, and the active volcano of Villa Eica, eastward of Tolten, is said to be visible from a distance of 60 miles off the land.
Tolten river. — The entrance of this river, 8 miles north of Ronca point, is scarcely discernible 2 miles offshore. The depth of water over the bar is 9 feet, but the breakers are almost constant, so that only vessels drawing less tban 6 feet can enter. After the bar is crossed the depth gradually increases to 25 feet farther up the river. In the dry season, January to April, the stream of the ebb runs at the rate of 5 miles an hour, and merely slackens a little on the flood, but is never reversed. The banks of the river are well wooded with fruit trees and timber for shipbuilding.
The town of Tolten is about 2 miles up the river.
Coast. — From Tolten river northward the coast is sandy, undulating, and of moderate height, and terminates at mount Gholfii. Five miles south of this mount is a large isolated round rock, named £1 Barco, and north of the rock, or 3 miles before reaching the mouth of the river, is a small bay, where a lagoon named Budi sometimes opens, but which is generally closed.
Imperial river is about 27 miles northward of Tolten river. South- ward of Cauten head the chain of mountains to the eastward form an irregular semicircle, with a sandy beach, at the extremity of which and at the foot of mount Choliii, the first hill of this range, is the mouth of the river. Vessels should approach the river with mount Cholni bear- ing N. 63^ E. (N. 450 E. mag.) until the entrance is distinguished.
From the mouth to the confluence of the lagoon of lake Mocha it is about 400 yards wide. There are some shoals near the left bank, but close to the right bank is 18 feet water, with a tide running from 2 to 3 miles an hour.
The bank forming the bar of the river crosses the mouth fipom north to south, leaving a channel SW. of mount Oholni, and another west of it.
The mouth was, in 1869, practicable for sailing vessels and steamers drawing not more than 12 feet water. During rainy seasons it is navi- gable for vessels of greater draft.
••» k.
246 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
The river is navigable for the same sized vessels for about 18 miles from its mouth.
As the influence of the tide reaches to about 21 miles from its month smaller vessels should be able to go much farther; however, the upi)er part of the river has not been explored.
The SVV. channel has at present the best entrance.
Directions. — In entering the Imperial river vessels should keep near the southern shore to avoid tlie sudden change in its course, and have an anchor ready in case of need.
In going up keep in the middle when about a mile from the lagoon, and steer straiglit for the hill at the angle where it joins the river. At the base of the hill is excellent anchorage, sheltered from the north.
Cauten head is a bold, cliffy headland, about 9 miles NNW. of the mouth of Imperial river. It is about 300 feet in height, with 20 fathoms 2 miles off shore^ and apparently steep-to. From thence cliffs, more or less broken, extend 10 miles to Manuel point.
Cape Tirua, 8 miles north of Manuel point, has a small islet close to it, and in a bay just to the northward is the mouth of the Tirua river, whence a communication used to be kept up by the Indians of the mainland with those who resided in Mocha island.
Mocha island is about 7 miles long by 3 miles in breadth, and is about 18 miles off the coast, with which it is connected by a bank hav- ing on it less than 20 fathoms of water. Westward of the island the water is deep, a matter which nn'ght seem of minor consequence, as this island is so good a landmark; but occasionally there is thick weather for days together on this coast. The island is lofty, over 1,100 feet high, and, therefore, a prominent landfall for the navigator. It should not, however, be approached too freely, as dangerous rocks lie off its west and south side. The most outlying are 3 miles south of the island. During the flood tide these rocks are particularly dangerous, as it sets toward them from the southwestward. Sometimes the ebb stream is scarcely felt for days together, and then the flood stream has the effect and appearance of a continuous northerly current.
Mariners navigating in the vicinity of Mocha island are warned that a strong northeasterly set may be experienced, and for which (espe- cially at night or in thick weather) due allowance should be made.
Illimani reef, lying southward of Mocha island, has a depth of about 9 fathoms at a distance of 600 yards eastward of it, and is stated to lie with Chales point bearing N. 3^ W. (1^. 20o W. mag.), distant 3^ miles. Shoal. — Captain Gonzalez, of the Chilean navy, reports the exist- ence of a shoal about 2 miles oft' the west coast of Mocha island, which is apparently the western extreme of the foul ground extending off the middle point of that island.
From the shoal, which circumstances did not permit to be examined, the hill on the middle point of the west coast of the island bears (approximately) S. 59° E. (S. 76o E. mag.), distant about 2^^ miles.
MOCHA ISLAND. 247
Hassler bank is in latitude 37^ 52' S. and longitude 74o 10' W. A
depth of 13 fathoms was obtained by the U. S. S. Hassler in 1872.
^This position is 30 miles J^. 18© W. (N. 35^ W. mag.) from Mocha island.
Lights. — Two lights are exhibited on Mocha island. The west light on the slope of the hill Torrecillas, western side of the island, is a flashiug white light showing one flash every 15 seconds, and the east light, a little to the southward of Anegadiza point, on the eastern side of the island, is a flashing white light showing double flashes every 30 seconds.
In clear weather the west light is visible 15 miles, the east light 18 miles.
The lighthouses are round towers, 25 feet high, painted white, their superstructures green, surmounted by lanterns and cupolas of copper.
The anchorages off Mocha are indifferent; one on the NE. side, the other near the SB. point. The anchorage near the SE. point affords shelter during Northers just in front of the first little hills. The other anchorage is off English creek in 13 to 20 fathoms, over a sandy bottom. Good shelter may be found from a strong southerly wind; nearer the shore it is rocky. There are several cottages, and cattle may be seen grazing. Landing is not difficult, and cattle and water may be obtained.
Tirua bay, on the north side of cape Tirua, is exposed and dangerous, neither is there any landing for boats.
Port Quidico or Nena, about 9 miles northward of cape Tirua, takes its name from a small river which empties into the south part of the bay. It is open to the northward, but is sheltered from the southwest- ward by high land and Nena point extending northward, with a rocky bank nearly f mile in the same direction. Inside the bay, about COO yards eastward of the river, at the foot of a hill, is the best landing place.
The anchorage for steamers is east of Fen a point, in 6 fathoms, bottom sand and shell, but sailing vessels should anchor farther to tlie northward and be prepared to weigh when the wind veers to the north.
The coast — Between Quidico or Nena and Morguilla point, 26 miles, the coast forms a large bight with a sandy shore, unfit to be approached, and is lashed by a heavy surf extending more than a mile off. Two rivers empty there, the southern named Lleuller and the northern Paicavi. Both appear to have formerly been navigable, but are at present inaccessible from seaward.
lylorguilla point, 33 feet high, is a peninsula, nearly round, about one mile in diameter, covered with vegetation, and connected to the shore by a sandy beach. North and south of the point are two small rocks frequented by ^eals. Eastward of the northern rock is the small cove named Ouraco, which can only be approached in calm weather.
Tucapel point. — From Morguilla point to Bocarripe head, 11 miles, the coast trends northerly and northwesterly, thence northerly 2 miles
248 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
to Tucapel point. The projecting rocky x>oint8, Chimpel and Lorcura, divide the sandy shore, along which are scattered nameroas rocks, one of which lies | mile off Chimpel x>oint.
Tncapel point, 624 feet high, is precipitous to the westward, bat slopes toward the soath.
The country in the interior is fertile and beautiful. Hill and dale, woodland and pasture are everywhere interspersed, while numerous streams irrigate the soil.
Easterly current. — An easterly current of one mile an hour or more prevails between Ghiloe island and Lota point. Its direction appears to vary between NE. and SE. according as the wind is northerly or southerly, but it is always toward the land. Several vessels have been placed in dangerous proximity to the shore by its effects.
Occasionally with a KW. wind a strong ESE. current may be experi- enced off Tucapel point.
CautioxL — A vessel standing in for this coast should never run into a fog, as the fog bank seldom extends more than 4 or 5 miles from the land.
Port Lebu, on the east side of Tucapel point, takes its name from the river which empties itself there. The bay containing the port is about 2 miles wide and one mile deep, with depths of about 7 and 8 fathoms, sand, which gradually diminishes toward the shore. The port is shel- tered from the SW. swell by a ridge of rocks extending about J mile northward from Tucapel point. The best anchorage for steamers is 200 yards eastward of the highest part of the rocky ridge, but sailing ves- sels should anchor a mile farther north, in order to be in a position to weigh, in case of a gale from the northward.
There is no difficulty in communicating with the shore at Lebu, except during strong northerly winds, and boats of moderate draft can enter the river or land in a small cove at the entrance.
The mouth of the river lies south of the anchorage, and is about 100 feet wide; its southern shore is composed of stones, the northern of sand. The least depth at low water is 5 feet. The tide produces a current running from 4 to 6 miles an hour, which diminishes farther up the river, where it widens considerably.
In former days there was a settlement called Tucapel Yiejo at the mouth of this river.
City of Lebu. — The city of Lebu is on the left bank of the'river near the mouth. It is the capital of the province of Arauco, and is a military station. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company steamers call fort- nightly, also local coast steamers. There is telegraphic communica- tion with the principal places in Chile. The population in 1885 was about 3,000.
Lebu has made great advancement during later years, principally due to the coal mines and its being a rich agricultural district.
Tides,— It is high water, full and change, at Port Lebu at lOh. 30m. ; rise, 6 feet.
MILLONHUE POINT — PIURES COVE. 249
Millonhue point, surrouDded by rocks, forms the south extreme of Camer9 bay and the north point of Port Lebu. Between the rocks is a small cove named Viel, with 6 fathoms in it, affording a good landing place sheltered from southwesterly winds.
Ranguil bay, in the SE. part of Carnero bay, is an exposed and unsafe anchorage. There are coal seams in the neighborhood, but they are not worked at present.
A heavy surf beats along the northern part of Eanguil bay, but boats can always land on the southern coast by passing between a number of rocks which border the shore there for a distance of J mile.
Carnero bay. — From Millonhue point the shore recedes and forms the spacious bay of Carnero, exposed and unfit for sailing vessels.
Carnero head, the northern limit of Carnero bay, is a cliffy bluff, 14 miles north of Millonhue point.
ITanez cove. — Southeast of Carnero head are two small islets named Pichiguapi and Uchaguapi, the northern of which is connected with the shore by a sandy neck, which has formed during late years. Yanez cove is sheltered from the westward by these islets, and from the ' northward by the headland, and affords excellent anchorage for coast- ers; bottom sand. There is a pier just eastward of Sandy point, the west extreme of the bay, in connection with a railway to the coal mines 7 miles distant. The mines are worked by an English company, and coal of a good quality can be obtained. There is also a small pier on the north end of Uchaguapi island. A tug can be obtained.
There is discolored water, probably a shoal, at J mile SW. of Liles point, the SE. extreme of the bay.
Steamers should anchor east of the northernmost islet. Some fresh provisions and poultry can be obtained. Water is plentiful, and can be easily procured from the Tralicura river at the head of the bay.
Maule shoal, lying about 8 miles north of Millonhue point and 3 miles westward of Lacobe point, is a sunken danger, which appears to extend toward Lacobe point. There is sufficient water to pass between it and the shore, but all vessels are recommended to pass well to the westward of it.
Fiures cove, about 3 miles north of Carnero head, affords shelter for vessels of light draft, but they should not attempt to enter without local knowledge. Between Carnero head and Piures cove there are two small bights, but they afford no shelter.
Dangers reported. — Heavy breakers are reported to have been seen during westerly gales over an apparently shoal patch situated 4 or 5 miles westward of Carnero head. This has been repeatedly looked for and not found.
Between Carnero head and Lavapi^ point, at 13 miles NNE. of it, several outlying dangers have been reported at different times to exist. The southernmost, awash at low water, is said to lie 2 miles S. 34^ W. (S. 17° W. mag.), from cape Eumena and one mile from the coast. The Chilean vessel of war Pilcomayo in 1892 passed close to the assigned
250 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
position of this rock at low water without seeing it; there was, how- ever, a distinctly marked breaker observed. Another rock, sitaated 2f miles West (S. 73° W. mag.) from cape Eomena, the existence of which was snpposed to be doabtful, was seen well above water dariog low tide from the Pilcomayo^ when a depth of 22 fathoms, rock, was obtained at 300 yards west and 20 fathoms about f mile l^W. of it.
HaU rock is charted at about 2J miles N. 28° W. (N. 45© W. mag.) from cape Eumena. The rock is visible at extreme low water, with a heavy swell from the westward. Hall rock is dangerous, beiug almost in the direct way of vessels going through the channel between Santa Maria island and the mainland. A rocky patch of 4 fathoms water, over which the sea in moderate weather breaks heavily, lies with Lavapi<5 point N. 69° E. (N. 42^ E. mag.) about § mile ofifshore.
Raimeuco cove. — About 4 miles NE. of cai)e Eumena is a small rocky i)oint, east of which is the cove. It is small, but the anchorage is well sheltered from the southward, although unprotected from the north. Two small banks are visible in the SW. part. The cove is surrounded by high hills containing coal.
Lavapi6 point is 8 miles NE. of cape Eumena. The point is low and rocky, and surrounded by reefs which extend some distance from it and upon which the sea breaks. In the vicinity of Lavapi^ point are two small coves called Trana and Tranco, the latter being SB. of Observation point. The village of Lengna de Yaca is north of it.
Rocks. — A rock awash, on which the sea breaks heavily, lies about J mile NNW. of Lavapie point, and a rocky patch of 2f fathoms lies j% mile N. 280 E. (N. lio E. mag.) of Observation point.
Cockatrice rock lies about 3 miles S. 85° W. (S. 68° W. mag.) of Cochinas point.
This rock was unsuccessfully searched for by the Pilcomayo, when a depth of 24 fathoms 'was obtained over its assigned position; 26 fathoms, sand, at 2J miles SW., and no bottom, with 30 fathoms at J mile NW. of the rock. Later information states that the rock does exist at about the position assigned to it, and that at extreme low water with a heavy westerly swell the rock is visible.
Meteor rock, on which the sea does not always break, is said to lie about 1 J miles S. 17° W. (South mag.) of Oochinos point, the south point of Santa Maria island, and to have on it 13 feet, with 9 to 11 fathoms close-to.
This rock was not found during the survey by the Chilean vessel of war Magallanes in 1886, but a patch of 6J fathoms was found at f mile NE. of its assigned position. It was also unsuccessfully searched for by the Filcomayo in 1892. This rock is also said to exist at about the position assigned to it and to be visible at extreme low water with a heavy westerly sweU.
Caution. — In consequence of the foregoing reports it is recommended to observe great caution in using the Boca Chica channel between Lavapi^ point and Santa Maria island.
SAKTA MARIA ISLAND. 251
Vessels bound to or from Arauco bay are cautioned not to approach the shore between Garnero bay and Lavapi6 point within 4 miles, not only in order to pass outside Hall rock, but to avoid the foul ground and kelp which extends a considerable distance off the land.
Current. — The coast current from the southward divides on Santa Maria island, one branch turning eastward through Boca Chica about J mile per hour.
With the ebb tide in Arauco bay the surface current sets out of Boca Ghica about 2 knots.
Santa Maria island is comparatively low and dangerous, with numerous outlying rocks and shoals. The western coast is cliffy, and the eastern part of the island is formed of sandy dunes terminating in Delicada point, the east extreme of the island. Dormidos de Afuera is the most outlying of these dangers, and lies 2J miles NNW. from the northern part of the island. They are sometimes unmarked by break- ers, and it is not safe to pass over the foul ground between them and the island; neither is it prudent to approach the western side of Santa Maria nearer than 3 miles.
Light. — On the summit of hill near the north end of the island is a cylindrical lighthouse supported on a tripod from center of keeper's dwelling. The light, white, shows a flash of 15 seconds' duration every minute. It is 258 feet above the sea level, and is said to be visible from 38 to 40 miles, although it has not been seen from deck, in clear weather, from, a distance of 28 miles. It is obscured between the bearings N. 16o W. (K 330 W. mag.) and K. 60 E. (N. lio W. mag.).
Santa Maria road. — Off* the SE. side of Santa Maria island there is a tolerable roadstead for small vessels during NW. winds, over good holding ground; but the only place really sheltered is quite close to the eastward of Cochinos point; a swell, however, rolls in, and when heavy the sea breaks a long way out. Cochinos point should not be neared under 2 miles, and in passing round Santa Maria to the eastward a wude berth must be given to the shoal, which now extends off* foward the SE., and it will not be prudent to bring Cochinos point to bear southward of west (S. 73^ W. mag.) until 4 miles to the eastward of it. At 3 miles east of the point there are but 4 fathoms at low water. From thence the shoal turns to the northward, round Delicada point, off which the water deepens suddenly to 10 and 20 fathoms. The land- ing in the bight between Cochinos and Delicada points is at Aguada point and at Engorda point; the latter is the better of the two. On the NE. side of the island there is anchorage during southerly winds in Tres Cuevas bay, SE. of the point of the same name. Landing is dangerous on the sandy beach on the east side of the island, on account of the heavy blind rollers; boats should not be beached except from
an anchor. English roads, at the NE. extreme, is the best anchorage,
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and has a good landing place. Water is good and abundant, also plenty of wood and vegetables, but little else Arauco bay is the name given to the large bight east of Lavapi6
252 CHILOE I8LAKD TO COQUIMBO BAT.
jyointj the SW. limit of the bay, and duriBg southerly winds affords good anchorage thronghout, bat it is everywhere exposed to northerly winds and sea, except in Llico bay. Vessels proceeding through to Boca Cbica should give Lavapie point a wide berth, as there are rocks awash at i mile NXW. of it. Arauoo, once so renowned but now only a small town of 3,450 inhabitants (1885), and a garrison of Chilean troops, stands a short distance firom the sea in the bight of the bay. Provisions are abundant and cheap, but the landing is very difficult for boats.
Llico bay, southeastward of Lavapie point, has tolerably good anchor- age in 4| fathoms water rather more than a mile from the west shore of the bay, but is not quite sheltered from NW., and is liable to heavy squalls oft' the heights over cape Eumena when it blows strong from the southwestward. A reef awash extending ^ mile in a SE. and NW. direction, and lying ^ mile offshore, is 1^ miles SE. ^ E. of the anchorage.
Supplies. — Beef of excellent quality may be obtained in small quan- tity. The only vegetables to be procured are potatoes and pumpkins.
Tnbnl river. — For 3 or 4 miles on each side of Tubul river the coast is steep and clifty, with high hills. The Tubul was formerly capable of receiving vessels of considerable burden, but the earthquake of 1835 raised its bar so much as to prevent access to other than boats. It is supposed that the bar will not remain. The neighboring country is beautiful and fertile. Off Pichicui point, the outer point of the long cliff west of Tubul river, and a mile from the land, there is a rock named El Fraile, on which the sea always breaks unless the water is unusually still.
Laraquete beach extends 10 miles to the northeastward from the Tubul cliffs; and 2 miles oft' it is from 8 to 10 fathoms water, over sandy bottom. The Oarampangue river, 4 miles east of Tubul river, is not navigable at its mouth, being choked by sandbanks, though 2 miles inland it is deep and rather wide.
Laraquete bay, at the east extreme of the beach of the same name, is frequented by vessels loading coal, which is brought by railway from Maquehua, on the banks of Oarampangae river. The holding ground is good, hut the anchorage is exposed to the westerly winds. The land- ing place is within the mouth of Laraquete river.
Vessels are loaded by means of lighters; 500 tons of coal can be put on board in ten hours, except in bad weather, when all loading is stopped.
Fresh provisions and water can be obtained.
The population of Laraquete (1894) amounts to 500.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Arauco bay at lOh. 15m. ; springs rise 6 feet.
Lota bay has become of mucli importance in consequence of its coal mines and the considerable export of coal. It affords anchorage in from 5 to 8 fathoms for large ships, and is safe all the year round.
LOTA. 253
The bay may be known by the lighthouse on Lota or Lutrin point, also a long iron jetty with a wheel and drop on the outer end for coaling purposes.
At the jetty head the depth is from 18 to 21 feetj vessels of deep draft have to complete coaling by means of barges.
From the point projecting from the middle of the north shore of the bay the breakwater or mole extends in the direction S. 10° E. (S. 27^ E. mag.), and is being formed from the scoria of the neighboring smelt- ing works. It is about 400 yards long and has reached a position where the chart shows a depth of 5J fathoms. A wooden landing pier about 65 yards long has been constructed in the eastern part of the bay inside the mole and abreast the customhouse.
The anchorage is generally so filled by shipping that no direct rules for anchoring can be given.
The winds blowing strong between NW. and West bring in a consid- erable sea, at times entirely suspending the loading.
The Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers, also those of the Kosmos company, call regularly, and there is telegraphic commu- nication with all the principal ports in the Eepublic.
Supplies. — ^Fresh meat at about 9 cents and bread and vegetables at about 3 cents are to be obtained j also good fire bricks.
CoaL — Good steaming coal can be obtained at about $5 per ton. It is, however, a quick-consuming fuel. Vessels can load 800 tons from the drop in one day. The port charges are $4. The coal mine is only a few fathoms from the inner end of the jetty.
There are excellent piers at Lota, with tramways, on which coal is conveyed in wagons to barges and taken to the shipping in a very short time. Mooring buoys are placed for ships to secure to.
The population is about 12,000, most of whom are coal miners.
Lights. — On Lota or Lutrin point stands a cylindrical lighthouse, 43 feet high, painted white, from which at 164 feet above high water is exhibited a revolving white light every fifteen seconds, visible in clear weather from a distance of 18 miles.
The light is obscured from the northward by the Chambique J)luffs.
Two fixed red lights, placed a few yards apart, are shown from the outer extreme of the old iron pier in the western part of the bay. These lights are elevated about 39 feet above the sea, visible in clear weather from a distance of about 2 miles, and kept in line indicate the direction of the pier.
At the extremity of the new wooden pier, in the eastern part of the bay in front of the customhouse, a white light and a green light are exhibited; each elevated 13 feet above the sea.
These two lights are of very little importance, as they are lighted irregularly and can only be seen a short distance.
Chambique bay is immediately north of Lota point; vessels load coal here from the mine, but it is considered a dangerous anchorage: westerly winds throw in a very heavy sea.
254 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
Ziotilla bay, nearly a mile north of Chambiqne bay, affords anchor- age in about 7 fatboms, bnt is very mneh exposed.
Flaya Blanca anchorage, | mile N£. of Lotilla bay, has in it depths of 6^ and 7 fathoms.
Flaya Blanca rock, with 16 feet water over it, lies mneh in the way of vessels bound to Playa Negra anchorage, at 1^ miles north of Playa Blanca anchorage. From the rock, Playa Negramole bears X. 49^ E. (y. 32^ £. mag.) and the eastern end of Cuervo island S. 8^ W. (S. 7^ E. mag.).
Coronal bay, at the northeastern part of Araueo bay, is a place of export for coaL Coronel is considered the best winter anchorage in the bay.
Anchorage. — ^ secure berth will be found in 9 fathoms, with Puchooo point, the N W. extreme of the bay, bearing between N. 85o W. (S. 78^ W. mag.) and S. 84^ W. (S. 67^^ W. mag.), about J mile distant, and Puchoco pier bearing N. 6° W. (N. 23^ W. mag.). Strong sea breezes raise a swell, which prevents coal lighters from being brought alongside. There is no wharf that a vessel can lie alongside of.
CoaL — ^There are two piers at Coronel, with tramways and wagons; the mines belong to the Puchoco company, and, if need be, 500 tons of coal can be furnished alongside any ship in the bay in the space of twelve hours. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers take all their coal from Coronel; it is not uncommon to see 80 or 90 colliers at anchor off Puchoco, besides steamers, taking in coal. The price of coal is from $5 to $G per ton. About 5,000 tons are kept in stock.
Coronel town contains about 10,000 inhabitants aud is about one mile eastward of the Puchoco wharves; there is an old pier running out from the town, but it is seldom used.
There are four lines of steamers calling regularly at Coronel, includ- ing the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers, the South American company, and Kosmos Line. A steamer also trades to xK>rt Montt.
There is telegraphic communication with Europe and all parts of Chile; a railway to Concepcion is proposed.
The United States is represented by a consular agent.
HospitaL — Coronel has a general hospital.
Snppliea — Fresh provisions and stores are abundant; slight repairs to steamers' machinery can be effected.
Directions. — ^The land just eastward of Coronel x>oint is of moderate height, terminating regularly in a low point, with several black cliffs just under the high part. Coronel point may be distinguished by its having a small house on its extreme, and just south of it as the old framework of some mining shaft; these together, when coming from the ITW., point out the position of Coronel, for, with Puchoco point bearing S. 29^ E. (S. 46^ E. mag.), the ships and anchorage do not come into view until within a short distance oft' it; and, besides, on • this bearing the extreme of the land west of Lota town is in line with
CORONEL CONCEPCION. 255
Puchoco point, and the smoke of the mines of both places is blended, making it confusing to a stranger bonnd to Coronel.
At all events, the house and shafting above described are good marks to know Coronel point, and when abreast of it and well outside the breakers two chimneys will be seen on Puchoco point, with some houses just north of the chimneys, and a few trees; also, shipping standing in or out of the bay, and others at anchor, indicate the near approach to Coronel bay. It is not advisable to shoal to less than 10 fathoms when rounding Puchoco point, when the ship may be steered for the anchor- age off Puchoco pier, or off the town of Coronel.
Vessels likely to remain should anchor well in the bay, off the town pier, where they will be well sheltered from North, NW., and West winds, and are not so much exposed to the heavy rolling swell that sets in when blowing hard.
Vessels only requiring coal can anchor oft* the Puchoco new pier in 9 fathoms, with the pier bearing K. 23° W..(N. 40^ W. mag.) and Puchoco point N. 78° W. (S. 85° W. mag.). In this position coaling can be car- ried on with great rapidity. Great attention is required to the lead in standing into this anchorage, for the deep water runs close up to the 5-fathom line. Landing on the beach is attended with some danger at times, as the sea breaks with violence on it, and should not be attempted, as there are landing steps at the pier.
Boca Maule rock, one mile NW. J N. from the south extreme of Puchoco point, and ^ mile from the shore, is about 50 yards in extent, with 4 fathoms water over it; midway between this rock and the shore there are depths of 9 and 10 fathoms.
Bio Bio river. — ^The situation of this great river, together with San Vicente and Concepcion bays, may be known by the remarkable hills about 800 feet high, named the Paps of Bio Bio, 817 feet high, which are 13 miles north of Coronel point. There is no danger near the Paps except a few rocks close to the shore. Bio Bio river is not accessible on account of sandbanks.
Between Coronel and Collinto points the sea is much discolored by the water from Bio Bio river.
Concepcion, capital of a province of the same name, is situated on the right bank of the river 6 miles from its mouth. Population in 1885, about 24,000.
San Vincente bay, on the north side of the Paps of Bio Bio, is entirely open to the NW. winds and to the western swell, but there is anchorage sheltered from W8W. winds in the southern corner of the bay in from 5 to 6 fathoms, where also is a landing place, and good water may be obtained. Formerly this bay was much frequented by whaling vessels.
Marullo bank, about i mile off shore, in the !NE. part of the bay, is nearly 200 yards in diameter, and has 3 feet over it at low water. The sea generally breaks over it.
Burdoes rock is N. 85^ W. (S. 78^ W. mag.), and distant 400 yards
256 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
from Marullo rock, with 6 fathoms between them. It is small and has 13 feet water over it at low water,
Tumbes peninsula extends from Lobos x>oint to Tnmbes point. A short distance off the coast there are many straggling rocks, some under, some above water, prominent among them beiug Sugarloaf rock, lying about J mile offshore, 2 miles southward of Tumbes point.
Quiebra Olla or Breakpot rock is a mile WNW. of Tumbes point. No vessel should pass between Olla rock and Tumbes point, as there are several sunken rocks in the vicinity; outside Breakpot rock there is no known danger, but the west side of Tumbes peninsula should not be approached to within a distance of 2 miles.
Concepcion bay. — Between Tumbes point, the NW. extreme of Tumbes peninsula, and Loberia head, 6 miles to the KE., is the entrance to Concepcion bay, the finest port on this coast, being about 6 miles square and having anchorage ground everywhere, and well sheltered. Mount !N"euke,.4J- miles to the eastward of Loberia head, the highest land in the vicinity, is 1,790 feet high.
Quinquina island, 3 miles long north and south by nearly a mile wide, lies in the entrance of Concepcion bay, and, with the shoals south of it, protect the anchorage oft' the town of Talcahuano from the North- ers. Vessels may anchor near Arena point, at the SE. extreme of Quiriquina island. Several rocks extend off the north point of the island, the northernmost of which, the Pajaros Mfios, lies nearly 400 yards off and is well above water.
Light — The lighthouse, 36 feet high, standing on the northern point of Quiriquina island, is circular and colored white. Prom the lantern is exhibited, at an elevation of 213 feet above the sea, a revolving white light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every thirty seconds, the dura- tion of flash being nine seconds, and that of eclipse twenty-one seconds, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 15 miles.
Approaching Concepcion bay. — Loberia head maybe distinguished even on a dark night, being a high dark bluff with several rocks lying off it, against which the sea breaks with great fury during a north- westerly gale 5 as also along the coast northward of Parra point. These breakers, with those on Pajaros Nines rocks, are generally lumi- nous at night, and, combined with a roar, will warn the seaman of his approach.
A stranger making the light on Quiriquina island at any time may enter Concepcion bay and get secure anchorage, bearing in mind the lighthouse is J mile southward of the Pajaros Nines rock. This can be done by running down with the light bearing 8. 6^ W. (S. 11° E. mag.) until Loberia head bears East (N. 73° E. mag.), when the course can be altered to S. 28^ E. (S. 45° E. mag.) until soundings are obtained in 17 to 10 fathoms or the light on Qniriquina island bears N. 50° W. (N. 67° W. mag.). Should the wind be from the NW. a ship may be hauled to the southwestward and anchored anywhere under Quij-iquina island, taking care at night not to approach it too closely. With a»
CONCBPCION BAY. 257
NW. wind the sea is often in a phosphorescent state, rendering the light difficult to make from a distance.
Ships bound to Concepcion bay from the southward and westward in thick weather should not reduce the soundings under 45 fathoms, nor approach Quinquina light at night until it bears southward of S. 73^ E. (East mag.); Loberia head may then be steered for, and the bay entered by the Great channel.
There is a passage into Concepcion bay on either side of Quiriquina island, but the best for those not locally acquainted is to the eastward of the island, where the soundings are regular with from 17 to 22 fathoms.
Quiriquina channeL — The western channel, named Quiriquina, is not considered a fit place for a large ship to go through, as the tides are irregulai* in their direction, and during springs ttiey run through the narrow part with great velocity. The channel is one mile wide between the NE. part of Tumbes peninsula and the island, with deep water on the island side, but the Buey rocks, which project from the NE. shoulder of Tumbes, reduce the available passage to the breadth of 800 yards.
The Great or Eastern channel is 2 miles wide, and has no danger at a reasonable distance from Pajaros Niiios point, but Loberia head should not be approached under one mile, to avoid Concepcion rock, and when navigating betwen Loberia head and Tom6, vessels should keep at least one mile from the shore. There is less tidal stream in this wide passage.
Concepcion rock, about i mile westward of Loberia head, is a pin- nacle rock with 19 feet on it at low water. The sea breaks over it in bad weather, but under ordinary conditions of swell it is not discernible, and is therefore dangerous.
Zealous rock, 800 yards southward of Huique head, is a detached rock, nearly awash at low water, with 4 fathoms between it and the shore, and 5 fathoms afc a distance of 400 yards outside.
Fort Talcahnano, at the SW. angle of Concepcion bay, is the safest and best on this part of the coast for a large ship, being protected from all winds. Merchant ships anchor off the pier in from 4 to 5 fathoms, good holding ground, and there is nothing to prevent the landing or receiving of cargoes at all times. The railway extends to Santiago, and thus this port is brought into direct communication with the interior.
Bepairs to machinery can be effected at the Government works at Concepcion, distant 9 miles by railway.
There is a hospital where seamen are admitted free of charge.
Dock. — ^A dock has been built at Amarilla point, about IJ miles north of Talcahuano.
The works consist of a mole or breakwater extending from Amarilla point, 612 yards, in the direction S. 72° E. (S. 89o E. mag.), to Marinao rock.
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CONCEPCION BAY — COLIUMO BAY. 269
best mark now is to stand in with Lookout hill on a S. 78^ W. (S. 61^ W. mag.) bearing, and to anchor as convenient by the chart; ves- sels must be careful to avoid this bank when running out from the anchorage.
Marinao rock is on the northern extremity of Marinaobank; the rock dries 3 feet at law water, and has on it an iron rod surmounted by a ball painted black. It is, however, not easily seen when against the land.
La Viuda rock lies about 400 yards north of Talcahuano custom- house, and is awash at low water. On the center of the rock is a pole 15 feet high, painted white, which is useful as a guide for making the pier.
Rundle bank, lying | mile SW. of Parra point, on the east side of the bay, is 600 yards in extent north and south, with 4 feet water 3 fathoms around and 7 fathoms at 200 yards westward of it. The bank is connected with Parra point by a shoal on which the least water found in 1872 was 1^ fathoms.
Loberia head, bearing ^N^. 3^ E. (N. 14° W. mag.), leads nearly ^ mile westward of Bundle bank in 14 fathoms.
Tome bay, in the NE. part of Concepcion bay, is about IJ miles across, J mile deep, and affords good and safe anchorage in 8 to 12 fathoms.
Light. — ^^A fixed red light is exhibited from the-Mole head at Tom^ bay at an elevation of 26 feet, visible in clear weather from a distance of 7 miles.
Tome. — This thriving seaport has a nice appearance from the anchor- age, and the town covers a large extent of ground. There is also a good pier with two cranes at its end, capable of lifting 2 tons each. The P. S. ^. steamers, also those of the South American Company, call regularly. Population about 5,500.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions and vegetables can be obtained; water is supplied from a tank vessel at $2 per ton.
DirectLons. — Should it be required to anchor at Tom^, steer in with the conspicuous white church spire (the only one in Tom6) in line with the end of the pier, until the extreme of the land of Huique head is in line with the extremity of Loberia head; with these marks the best anchorage can be obtained for a large vessel in lOJ fathoms, mud, good holding ground; great care is required in anchoring here, as the water shoals suddenly.
These remarks apply to daylight, as it is presumed that no stranger would take up a berth at Tom6 at night, without the aid of the moon, and the weather fine. At the commencement of the !N W. gale, a second anchor should be let go, as Huique head affords little protection.
Coliumo bay. — From Loberia head the coast trends in a northerly direction, 4 miles to Cullin point, thence easterly about J mile to Coliumo head, the west entrance point to Coliumo bay. Coasters may anchor here in security in from 5 to 10 fathoms, but there is not much
260 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
shelter for large ships daring northerly winds. The best anchorage is in Eare cove, south of Goliumo head, offering good landing for boats and a convenient watering place.
Large vessels should anchor in 6 fathoms at 600 yards eastward of Falucho head.
Coast. — At 3 miles northward of Goliumo head is Burca point, and 6J miles farther northward is Coicoi point, steep and rocky and having a reef upon which the sea breaks lying nearly 600 yards westward of it. Immediately south of Coicoi point is the unnavigable Itata river.
Monte del Zorro point is about 7 miles northward of Coicoi point, and about 5 J miles farther north is Achira point, having a rocky shoal named Miramar lying off it.
Miramar rocks extend ^ mile in a north and south direction, and are 600 yards wide. They lie 1 J miles north from Achira point, and nearly one mile from the shore adjacent.
At 5 miles northward of Achira point is a conspicuous rock named Iglesia de Piedra, off a small point; between this point and Achira point is Cobquecura bay. At one mile northward of Iglesia de Piedra is Maquis point, forming the south limit of Buchupureo road.
Cautdon. — Too much reliance should not be placed in the position of cape Carranza and the coast, thence southward to Concepcion, as it has not been thoroughly surveyed.
Buchupureo road is visited by a few vessels yearly for the purpose of shipi)ing wheat. "The holding ground is not good, but a fair berth will be found in 15 fathoms with the flagstaff bearing S. ll^ E. (S. 27^ E. mag.), distant f mile. The roads are exposed, and vessels should proceed to sea on indications of strong winds. Buchupureo may be recognized by the Iglesia de Piedra, also by a red-colored road on Maquis point. Supplies are scarce. Vessels can communicate with shore by the international code of signals.
Calan (Nugulhue) point, 4 miles north of Maquis point, the most salient point between Concepcion bay and cape Carranza, having a small mound at the extremity, is readily recognized from both north and south. From this point the coast extends 16 miles to Puchepo point, low and sandy, with the mountains of Pelados rising 1,312 feet about 3 miles eastward. Foul ground, on which the sea breaks in ordinary weather, extends about i mile westward of Calan point.
Curanipe road is a mere curve in the coast immediately north of Puchepo i)oint; it affords little protection from southerly winds, and the swell is always heavy; the best anchorage is in 17 to 18 fathoms, at f mile N. 6o W. (N. 22o W. mag.) from Trarao point. The holding ground is bad, and vessels should always be prepared to put to sea. Landing is always dangerous. Supplies are scarce. Communication with shore by the international code.
Chauco bay is the name of the exposed bight between Puchepo point and cape Carranza.
Cape Carranza is about 10 miles north of Puchepo point. The cape
MAULE RIVER. 261
is surrounded by rocks and the Carranza rocks extend about 5 miles to the northward. The cape should be given a wide berth.
Light. — A lighthouse is in course of construction (1896) on cape Car- ranza. It is to be 56 feet high, and a circular white tower, with a green dome, lantern, and gallery. It stands on point Santa Ana, locally known by the name of Santos del Mar, about ^q mile northward from cape Carranza.
The light is fixed and flashing white, showing a flash every thirty seconds. It will be elevated 170 feet above the sea and visible 18 miles.
Manle River. — Between cape Cfarranza and cape Humos, a bold and remarkable headland at 17 miles NNE. of it, the cx)ast recedes and forms Las Canas bay, and at 4 miles K. 38° E. (N. 22^ E. mag.) from cape Humos there is a remarkable rock named the Church (de la Iglesia) from its appearance, and at one mile N. 61° E. (N. 45° E. mag.) of this rock is Lobos rock, a remarkable whitish colored rock 80 feet high, at the entrance of the Maule river. There is no mistaking the entrance, for on the south side the land is high and the shore rocky, while on the north side a long low sandy beach extends beyond eyesight. Kot far from Church rock a remarkable bare space of gray sand may be seen on the side of a hill, but generally the heights between cape Humos and the Maule are covered with vegetation and partially wooded. The highest hills in the vicinity range from 1,000 to 1,300 feet; those actu- ally on the coast between cape Humos and the river from 500 to 900 feet.
But for the bar to Maule river there would be a thriving trade to this place, and, notwithstanding this disadvantage, the town of Con- stitucion, on the south bank of the river a mile from its mouth, may flourish hereafter by the help of small steamers and some engineering assistance at the bar. A most productive country surrounds it, abounding with internal and external wealth, aud a fine river that communicates with the interior is navigable far inland.
Anchorage. — A ship may anchor in fine weather in from 6 to 8 fath- oms, sandy ground, one mile !N", 30^ W. (N. 46^ W. mag.) of Church rock. Steamers may lie securely in about 7 fathoms i mile S. 83^ W. (S. 07^ W. mag.) of Lobos rock. There is no hidden danger, but an exten- sive sand bank north of the river shelves out to seaward, and should have a wide berth. Behind this sand there is a flat several miles in extent, which in front of the high ground reaches to within 5 miles of a remarkable valley, named the False Maule, from its having been taken for the entrance of that river. ,
Lobos rock, the south point of entrance to the river, forms a steep cliff with a beach on each side. Entrance point is sandy. Boats some- times land on the outer beach, under Lobos rock; but the surf is always high and treacherous, and the sandy beach is so soft and steep that it is extremely difficult to haul up even a whaleboat. There is a landing place opposite the cemetery in the sandy bay between Church rock and Lobos rock, but it is only available in fine weather. Balsas should be provided, and the boats anchored near the beach safe from the surf.
262 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
The northern entrance to the river is a low, sandy spit named Quivolgo beach, SE. of which rises Mutrun hill, 846 feet high, surmounted by a semaphore.
Bar. — The sands of the bar are constantly changing. From May to October the scoured channel is near Lobos rock, and during the freshets has 18 feet in it, but the remainder of the year the channel is found farther northward, and has only from 8 to 10 feet at high water.
When approaching the river, a white flag at the masthead of the semax)hore indicates that the bar is practicable, and a pilot will direct the vessel by flags from the inner side of the bar.
A black ball at the top of the semaphore indicates that the bar is impracticable.
Inner anchorage. — The inner anchorage is in from 16 to 26 feet immediately south of Mutrun hill, in the hole or La Poza.
The town of Constitucion contains handsome buildings, both public and private, and has a population of about 6,500.
There is a small tug and a staff of Government pilots.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Maule river at lOh. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet (approximate).
The ebb stream runs at an average of 2 miles per hour on the bar, and the tidal influence ceases at 8 miles from the mouth.
Reported shoaL — A rocky shoal, with from 7^ to 25 fathoms, has been reported about 18 miles off the mouth of the river in, approxi- mately, latitude 35o 18' S., longitude 72° 48' W.
El Fefion, at 22 miles NNE. of the Maule river, is the northern entrance point of the Mataquito river (False Maule), which formerly emptied 4 miles southward of this point.
Iloca point, about 3 miles north from El Peiion, is rugged and rocky, with a house in ruins close to it.
Duao point, on which the Pacific Steam l^avigation Company's steamer Valdivia was wrecked, is about 4 miles to the northward of Iloca point.
Llico road. — From Duao point the coast extends 8 miles in a north- easterly direction to Llico road, which may be recognized from seaward by the brown, sandy heights eastward of LKco. The anchorage is in about 16 fathoms, sand and mud, J mile N. 40^ W. (N. 56^ W. mag.) from the outlet of Vichuquen lagoon, keeping Oordonal point open of the line of coast; although the anchorage is exposed to all winds from north round by west to south, the holding ground is good, but during a norther it would be advisable to proceed to sea.
Caution. — The bar at Llico is generally dangerous; vessels, there- fore, should not communicate with the shore in ships' boats, but wait for the boats of the place, which will be sent off when the bar is safe, at a charge of $9.
Supplies. — Bullocks, sheep, pigs, and fowls can be obtained, but vegetables are scarce and dear. Quinces and grapes are plentiful.
The Vichuquen lagoon abounds in fish and wild fowl.
LOR A POINT — ^PUPUYA ISLAND. 263
Tides. — ^It is liigli water, full and change, in Llico road at lOh.; springs rise 4 to 5J feet.
CdhuiL — Lora (Sirena) point, 12 miles K. by E. of Llico, is rugged and rocky at its foot, but has no outlying dangers. Lobos point, 8 miles northward of Lora point, is moderately high ; at 4 miles NE. of Lora point is the outlet of Cdhuil lake. The coast between Lora point and C^huil is rugged and rocky, having high land at the back; but between C4huil and Lobos point it is formed of sand hills, also having high land at the back.
Fichilemu point, 3 J miles NB. of Lobos point, is a low, rocky point with foul ground off it; the coast between is sandy, and can be approached only in fine weather. A small cove is situated one mile NE. of the point, in which is the village of Pichilemu.
Topocalma point, 17 miles KE. of Lobos point, is an inaccessible bluff promontory 406 feet high, with a gully on its east side. The north side of the point is rugged, with several rocks near it. On the south is Pena de Lobos, a high islet close to the shore.
Topocalma road is a small indentation of the coast north of Topo- calma point, and may be recognized from seaward by the yellow sand hills south of St. Domingo point and the high land to the eastward covered with trees. The anchorage is in 17 or 20 fathoms, sand and mud, about J mile north of Topocalma jwint, and exposed to all winds from north round by west to south. Foul ground exists on this part of the coast.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Topocalma road at 9h. 55m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet.
St. Domingo point, the summit of which is 334 feet high, is the south point of Tuman bay. There is 6 fathoms close-to on the north and west sides of the point, with no outlying dangers.
Tiiman bay is just north of St. Domingo point. From the north side of this point a broken ridge of sand extends parallel to the shore for a distance of 2 miles, with a deep passage inside, nearly 100 yards wide in some places, in which the coast current runs from one to 3 miles an hour to the northward.
Anchorage. — There is anchorage in the south part of Tuman bay, about i mile north of St. Domingo point, in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand, sheltered from the southerly winds and swelL
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tuman bay at 9h. 55m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet.
Farallon del Infiemillo is an islet in the form of a pyramid, dark colored, and lying close to the shore, 3 miles north of St. Domingo point. It is easily recognized when nearing Topocalma point, which is the best point for a vessel to make when bound for Tuman bay.
Fupuya island, at 2f miles NNE. from Farallon del Infiernillo, and 4 mile off shore, is a large, steep, whitish colored rock, with a flat top, sloping to the WSW. There is no passage except for small coasters between the island and the mainland.
264 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
Matanza cove has several small islands aud rocks in its vicinity. It may be recognized by a ravine with a small cove named Matancilla, on the north side of which is a bouse with its north side painted white and its roof red. The hills north of the ravine are high and green, while those south of it are composed of sand. Some cargoes of wheat have been shipped at Matanza.
Navidad bay, about 4 miles NE. of Matanza, has no good anchor- age, and is much exposed. Barranco point is the north point of the bay. Perro point is at the entrance to Bapel river.
Bucalexnu head, a bold cliff 300 feet high, is 3 miles north of Bar- ranco point.
Rapel shoaL — At 2 miles west of Bncalemu head lies Bapel shoal, sometimes, but erroneously, called Topocalma shoal. It is nearly a mile in extent, and shows three rocks just above water, on which the sea breaks in all weathers. The water is deep all round, the soundings gradually increasing from 10 to 50 fathoms. Vessels should by no means approach the land in the neighborhood of this shoal, as the heavy south westerly swell sets upon this dangerous part of the coast, as well as the prevailing current, which sometimes runs upward of one knot an hour round Topocalma point toward the shoal.
Toro point, 5^ miles l^E. of Bncalemu head, has a few rocks close off it. The water here is shoaler than on the coast farther southward, there being 15 fathoms at one mile from the shore. Eastward of Toro point there is a bight, which contains a sandbank lying one mile offshore. Possibly there may be a sheltered anchorage between this sandbank and the shore.
Toro shoal, IJ miles northward of the west extreme of Toro point, is a rocky shelf extending 500 yards in an east and west direction. The sea nearly always breaks over the shoal, and there is a channel 1,600 yards wide, with from 9 to 12 fathoms water between it and the land.
Another rocky shelf lies 1,300 yards 8. 35o E. (S. 51oE. mag.) of Toro shoal, and the same distance from the northerji part of Toro point. The sea always breaks on this small patch, which has been named Intermedio'shoal.
CoroniUa rock. — Mr. Clement Mossop, master of the bark Goronilla^ states that the rock reported to lie 3 miles north from Toro point, but the existence of which was doubtful, has again been seen, the CoroniUa having passed within 300 yards of that danger. This rock, upon which it is considered the sea seldom breaks in fine weather, has an estimated depth of 4 feet at low water.
Maipo river. — The coast from Toro i^oint trends 24 miles northward to White Eock point, forming a slight bay, and midway is the mouth of the Maipo river, across which a bar extends, and stretches for nearly 2 miles to the northward parallel to the shore, and renders the river inaccessible from seaward. Northward of the river's mouth is a small fishing village, and some storehouses for grain, whence it is transported to San Antonio by a tramway.
PORT SAN ANTONIO — ^ALGARROBO ROAD. 265
' Port San Antonio, also known as Puerto Viejo, is 3 miles north- ward of Maipo river, and immediately under a pointed hill named El Centinela (the Sentinel). The available anchoring space is small, and has irregular depths.
Yessels should approach with the southern part of the town on a N. 660 E. (N. 510 B. mag.) bearing, and obtain the services of a local pilot to pick a berth, in consequence of the many lost anchors and cables.
It should also be borne in mind that with strong southerly winds the current sets 2 knots to the northward.
When leaving the port, great care must be used not to be set on to El Toro rock, a sunken danger lying 200 yards west of cape San Antonio, by weighing with a scant or light wind.
The town contains about 600 inhabitants. Provisions, water, and marine stores are plentiful. Wheat is largely exported, also wool and barley.
San Antonio de las Bodegas, north of El Oentinela, is also called Puerto l^uevo. It is an exposed bay during the winter season, and should be avoided at that time, but during the summer months it affords anchorage for a number of ships, in moderate depths and good holding ground. There are two landing places for boats, also a pier for landing cargo. Provisions and water are scarce.
Beacon. — ^A pyramidal shaped beacon 52 feet high, painted in red and white horizontal stripes, and surmounted by a red ball, is erected on Sentinel hill, 498 feet high, between ports San Antonio and San Antonio de las Bodegas.
Cartagena beach, northward of Las Bodegas, is quite exposed to southwestern winds. Tres Cruces point is low and rocky.
Talca pointy 6 miles KW. of Tres Cruces point, is a remarkable stack of rocks 110 feet high, appearing like a castle, having a glossy surface when seen from the northward, but looking black from the southward. This rock should not be mistaken for that named White Bock point, lying 4 miles to the north of it.
Talca cove is situated just north of the point, but it is only fit for
small coasters. Quisco cove, similar to Talca cove, is northward of a point of the
same name 2 miles north of Talca cove.
Fena Blanca (White Rock point), 4 miles northward of Talca point, a flat- topped rock, 52 feet high, is a good landmark. The sides are pre- cipitous and of a whitish-gray color, which shows well against the darker background. The rock is joined to the mainland by a spit, which covers only with extraordinary high tides.
Reported danger. — A sunken rock is said to lie from 4 to 5 miles off from Talca point, and about 24 miles south of Curaumilla point.
Algarrobo road has depths of 7 to 16 fathoms, and anchorage may be obtained in 15 fathoms, with Algarrobo village bearing S. 30^ E. (S. 450 E. mag.), distant one mile, and Pajaros IJinos island in line with White Eock point.
266 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
Los Farallones are a cluster of rocks abont one mile north of White Eock point, with 5 to 11 fathoms^ rocky bottom close around, and 13 to 7 fathoms between them and the mainland. At 1,300 yards K. 780 E. (N. 630 E. mag.) from Los Farallones lies a shoal with 4J fathoms, on which the sea breaks during westerly gales.
Another shoal in the fairway to the anchorage, and having 3| fathoms, rock, lies 500 yards 2^. 7° W. (N. 22o W. mag.) of Pajaros :^riuos island.
G-allo point is a steep cliff 229 feet high 7 miles north of White Bock point; between it and White Eock point are two sandy bights divided by a rocky point. In the corner of the northern bight, named j
Tunquen, a boat might find shelter in a northerly wind, but there is I
no place for a sailing vessel. Steep cliffs extend 6 miles north of Gallo point to Quintal road.
Qnintai road. — ^Loros point, 167 feet high, at 2f miles KNW. of Gallo point, has a small cove NE. of it, protected by an islet, and is a good landing place, except in !NW. winds; KE. of Loros point is Quintal road, having indifferent anchorage in about 14 fathoms. There is a small stream of fresh water, but no other supplies are to be obtained. El Fraile rock, above water, lies 1,600 yards NW. of Loros point.
(H. O. Chart No. 1220.)
Cnrama head. — ^From Quintal road the steep cliffs extend to Cu- rauma head, a remarkable promontory at 5 miles farther north, and one that demands special notice, because it is generally the first land made out distinctly when approaching Valparaiso from the southward. The head itself is a high cliff; and above it the land rises steeply to the two high ranges of Ourauma, the higher one rising 1,830 feet above the sea, about 2 miles inland and NE. of the head. Usually, when first made out from seaward, the high part of the range of Curauma appears directly over the head, and then, if tolerably clear weather, the Campana de (Bell of) Quillota, 6,200 feet high, is seen in the distance. If the Andes should be also visible the volcano of Aconcagua will at a glance be distinguishable by its superior height, said to be 23,200. feet.
Curauxnilla point. — Projecting from the heights over Curauma head is Curaumilla point. This point, low by comparison with the neigh- boring land, though not so really, is rugged and rocky; the western part of the point terminates in a rocky islet named Los Lobos, 164 feet high and of a yellowish color, and conspicuous from a distance. i
Light. — On the summit of Curaumilla point is a circular white light- house, from which at 318 feet above the sea level is shown a fixed and flashing white light every minute. It is visible 16 miles. The light was destroyed by an earthquake in March, 1896, and a provisional light is now exhibited. This light is a flashing white light, visible 10 miles. The flashes are of ten seconds' duration and the eclipses five seconds, but regularity in the operation of the light can not be depended upon.
Semaphore. — linear the lighthouse there is a semaphore station fur- nished with the International Code of Signals and in telephonic communication with Valparaiso. ^
LA LAGUNA BAY — ^VALPARAISO BAY. 267
Iia Lagiina bay is the name given to the large bight included between Curaumilla point and Anjeles point. There is good landing with off shore winds in Grande cove, one mile eastward of Curaumilla point, and anchorage off the cove in from 27 to 38 fathoms. The bay is bor- dered by cliffs and is free from any outlying dangers.
Ai\jeles point is the NW. extremity of the laud forming Valparaiso bay.
Light. — From a circular, white lighthouse on Anjeles point is shown a fixed white light showing a flash every two minutes. The flash is preceded and followed by a short eclipse. The light is elevated 180 feet and visible 16 miles. In coming from the southward, the. light does not open off Curaumilla point until it bears eastward of N. 45^ E. (K 30O E. mag.). '
Buei rock, breaking only in heavy weather, is about 20 feet in extent; has 11 feet over it at low water, with 5 fathoms close around. It is J mile If. 640 W. (N. 79^ W. mag.) of Anjeles point and 300 yards from the nearest land.
About 130 yards inshore of Buei rock there are several detached patches which uncover and border a shelving rocky ledge that extends in a northwesterly direction from the shore between Anjeles point and Magazine cove to the distance of about 200 yards.
Buoy. — ^An automatic whistling buoy, painted red, is moored in 22 fathoms NW. of Buei rock, with the flagstaff at fort Yerbas Buenas bearing S. 49° E. (S. 64o E. mag.) and the flagstaff at fort Talcahuano S. no E. (S. 260 E. mag.).
Caution. — ^Vessels entering Valparaiso bay should not approach Anjeles point to a less distance than 800 yards, nor come into less than 25 fathoms, until the lighthouse bears S. 18o E. (S. 34° E. mag.). Curaumilla point, well open of the land west of Magazine bay, leads northwestward of Buei rock.
Baja rock is a small rock above water, with deep water outside and 3 fathoms close to it, lying 750 yards S. 77^ E. (N. 88o E. mag.) from Anjeles point. A vessel may pass this rock at 200 yards distant, and then steer into the bay.
Buoy.-^An automatic whistling buoy, painted red, is moored close southward of Baja rock.
Valparaiso bay is of a semicircular form and capable of accommo- dating a large fleet. It is well sheltered except toward the north, and during the prevalence of winds from this quarter in the winter season, accompanied as they always are by a heavy rolling sea, the shipping is much exposed, and serious accidents often take place.
Ester rock, with 3^ fathoms on it and 10 to 12 around, lies in the eastern part of the bay, with Andes fort (Caleta point) bearing S. 32° W. (S. 170 W. mag.), distant 1,300 yards, and Gruesa point K. 680 E. (N. 530 E. mag.).
Fo'vtrder buoy. — ^A mooring buoy for the use of vessels loaded with explosives has been placed in the eastern part of Valparaiso bay about
268 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
1 J miles from Viiia del Mar beach. The buoy is moored in 33J fathoms on the following bearings : Fort Callao point S. 56^ E. (S. 70° E. mag.) 5 Gruesa point 8. 22^ W. (S. 7° W. mag.).
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Valparaiso bay at 9h. 32 m. ; springs rise about 5 feet.
Light. — On the outer end of the landing jetty and opposite the Commercial Exchange is an iron column, from which is exhibited a revolving red, white, and blue light every sixteen seconds. It is elevated 39 feet and visible 4 or 5 miles.
Directiona — All vessels bound to Valparaiso should endeavor to make the land about Curaumilla* point. Sailing vessels should by no means approach the coast in the neighborhood of the Bapel shoal, as tne heavy S W. swell sets down upon this dangerous part of the coast, as well as the prevailing current, which sometimes runs upwards of a knot an hour past Topocalma x>oint toward the shoal. In thick weather, or approaching the land at night, the greatest attention should be paid to the deep-sea lead, as soundings may be struck from 2 to 6 miles, and even in some places 12 miles off the land. A sunken rock is said to lie about 24 miles south of Curaumilla point, and from 4 to 5 miles off Talca point, but its existence is very doubtful. During the winter months northerly gales are experienced, and a current sets to the southward a mile an hour at intervals.
During the morning and forenoon, although a vessel may have a fine breeze outside, she will generally lose it on opening Valparaiso bay 5 in this case the best course to adopt is to make the most use of the breeze by passing around the Baja rock at about 200 yards, and then steering direct for the shipping, shortening sail if the wind heads her and trust- ing to her way to gain the anchorage. In the afternoon, with southerly winds, care must be taken to reef in time, for, however moderate and steady the winds may be in the ofi&ng, squalls, which are not to be dis- regarded, blow down from the high land in the bay. When outside, should the wind require only a single reef in the topsails, if close hauled, probably treble-reefed topsails and foresail will be quite enough in the bay; and if it is blowing strong in the ofi&ng from the same quarter, close reef- topsails over reefed courses, or over reefed foresail only, will be as much sail as can be carried. Should a vessel find it blowing too hard to work up to an anchorage she had better stand out and remain under easy sail off Anjeles point till it moderates, which it does generally in a few hours.
Sailing vessels from the southwestward should be careful not to close Anjeles point at night, as the wind then fails, and there is often a set toward the shore.
In the event of a vessel approaching with a northerly wind, likely to blow strong, she should keep an offing till the wind has shifted to the westward of KW., which it always does after some hours of strong northerly winds.
Caution. — Vessels making the land to the southward of Valparaiso,
VALPARAISO. "^269
with westerly winds, should use great caution, either when running to the north or close hauled, as leeway, the heavy western swell, and a current with the wind all tend to set a ship inshore.
Anchorage. — The best anchorage in Valparaiso bay is closeoff the cus- tomhouse in from 15 to 20 fathoms, or in the SJV. part of the bay; but the holding ground of sand and shingle is not so good in shoal water.
The man-of-war anchorage is 400 yards from the shore, off the cus- tomhouse, taking care to keep clear of the moorings laid down for the Chilean squadron, the chains of which are laid north ^nd south; also to avoid the wreck of an iron vessel lying nearly 400 yards eastward of Duprat point.
Merchant vessels are berthed by the harbor authorities and are moored in lines, and in consequence of the numerous moorings, and also several sunken wrecks lying in the anchorage, it is recommended to employ a local pilot.
During the summer, the closer inshore the better; but during winter, on the outside of other vessels, if it can be managed, so as to be safe from their driving during a northerly gale, which sends in a heavy sea.
There is a fine mole, 990 feet long, alongside which the largest steamers can load and discharge cargo; tramways and cranes are along its whole length; the largest crane will lift 50 tons. The depth of water along- side at low water is 43 feet on the east and 36 feet on the west side.
Valparaiso stands at the foot of a range of cuestas or hills, 1,000 to 1,400 feet high, on one of which there is a signal staff to give notice of the approach of shipping. The city formerly consisted of one long straggling street, not far from and parallel to the beach. Of late years it has been enlarged and greatly improved. Large buildings have been erected, and other improvements are still in progress.
The United States is represented by a consul and vice-consul.
Hospital — There are three hospitals in Valparaiso. The one named Garidad, situated in the quarter El Almendral, is for seamen of all nationalities. There is also a home for sailors.
Supplies. — Valparaiso is the best port for supplies and repairs on the west coast of South America. Beef, vegetables, and stores of all kinds are plentiful and comparatively cheap. The water supplied is brackish and unwholesome. Ships, when possible, should distill all drinking water for their own use.
Goal can always be obtained, both English and Ghilean. Welsh coal varies from $8 to $15 per ton and Ghilean about $6 per ton. Ships are coaled by means of lighters.
Repairs. — There are foundries and workshops where extensive repairs to boilers and engines can be made. There are also all facilities for the repair of wood or iron ships.
Pilots. — ^There ate pilots whose special duty is the berthing of ships. The fees are according to the tonnage.
Docks. — There are two floating docks, respectively capable of receiv- ing vessels of 4,000 tons and 2,200 t^ns burden.
270 CHILOE ISLi^ND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
The Santiago dock is 298 feet long, 68 feet wide at the entrance, and has 19 feet over the sill, or will lift a vessel of 6,000 tons.
The Valparaiso dock is 265 feet long, 60 feet wide at the entrance, and has 15 feet over the sill, or will lift a vessel of 2,500 tons.
The largest vessel yet docked is 3,000 tons register.
Tugs. — There are several steam tugs for towing vesselc and. for weighing anchors; also for sweeping for lost anchors, for which they have all necessary appliances.
Mail services. — Panama to Valparaiso the mail steamers run twice a month, touching at all the principal ports on the coast. The whole "voyage, including stoppages, is accomplished in rather more than sev- enteen days.
Liverpool and West Coast, via Magellan strait; twice a month from both ends of the line, touching at Bordeaux, Lisbon, Eio de Janeiro, Montevideo, Sandy jjoint, and Valparaiso.
Telegraph to all parts.
Time signal — The time ball on the I^aval College at Valparaiso is hoisted half-mast five minutes before noon, mastheaded two and on^-half minutes before, and dropped at local mean noon, equivalent to 4:h. 46m. 34s., Greenwich mean time. If the ball should not drop exactly at noon, it will be hoisted immediately and dropped five minutes afterwards. If for any reason the signal should fail completely, the ball will be slowly lowered.
The time can be signaled at any hour of the day when requested for a ship, except on Sundays and feast days.
Position. — According to the latest determinations the monument at the landing is considered to be in latitude 33^ 2' 7'' S., longitude 71^ 38' 36'' W.
Northers. — ^A norther, as it is called, often passes over without doing damage, but at intervals the effects are most disastrous, and all the ill- secured or ill-placed vessels are driven ashore. To ride out a norther, one anchor with a long scope of cable is recommended, a spare anchor ready, and the ship ready for sea, with steam up. Some prefer riding near the shore, on account of the undertow j but in such a position there is more risk of being fouled by driving vessels, besides feeling the sea considerably. In the summer southerly gales blow in furious squalls off the heights. Clear weather and a high barometer presage strong southerly winds; cloudy weather, with a low barometer, and dis- tant land being remarkably visible, such as the hill over port Papudo and the heights over Pichidanqui bay, are sure indications of northerly winds.
These gales are usually experienced in June, July, and August, and have been experienced during other months.
Earthquakes. — A great earthquake occurred at Valparaiso on the morning of July 8, 1872. The shocks felt exceeded in intensity those felt in 1867, and were felt severely in Limache, Quillota, and Calera.
VALPARAISO — ^WEATHEE SIGNALS.
271
\i
for h
m
se?-
roil m
ois lalf k
OD.
be br
it
The earthquake was observed to come from the east, and was felt as far south as Cnrico.
Weather signals. — The weather signals shown by the harbor authorities are hoisted on the flagstaff of the Bolsa Oomercial :
Barometer.
Indies. 30.05 . . . .
30.00 . . . .
29.95 . . . .
29.94
29.90
29.85.
29.84
29.80
29.75
29.74
29.65
29.60 .
Signal.
. . At masthead
..At half-mast
Lowered
At masthead
At half-mast
. Lowered
. . At masthead
At half-mast
.Lowered
At masthead
.At half-mast
. . . Lowered
Signification.
^
s^Fine.
y
\
^Variable.
y
\
> Eain.
y
^
> Storm.
y
The pennant used is white with a round red spot on it.
272 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
From the 1st of May to the end of Angnst vessels must keep down topgallant yards and masts. Vessels in the tiers should be moored with two bow anchors (105 fathoms on each) and one stern anchor with 90 fathoms of chain. During the remainder of the year bow chains must be at least 90 fathoms and stern 105 fathoms.
During the above-named months vessels lying at single must let go a second anchor as soon as the bad- weather signal is hoisted.
Concon cove, eastward of the point of the same name, and 7^ miles NE. from Anjeles point, is 3 miles wide and 1 J miles deep, and divided in the center by Blanca point.
The best anchorage is in 11 fathoms, sand, on the middle of a line joining Ooncon and Blanca points. It is exposed to westerly and IfW. winds, but the holding ground is good.
Concon rocks lie 3^ miles north from Goncon point, and, though always aboye water, should have a wide berth given to them during light winds, as there is usually a swell and a current setting toward them from the southward.
There is a passage 1 J miles wide between the rocks and La Isla, east- ward of them and close inshore, with 10 fathoms in mid-channel.
The coast from abreast La Isla trends in a northerly direction 4 miles in a sandy beach named Rotoque, off which there is 6 to 8 fath- oms at a distance of one mile, and from Eotoque point, the north extreme of this beach, the land curves round in a northwesterly and northerly direction 4J miles to Liles point, the west entrance point of Quint ero bay.
Artesas point, the projection a mile SSW. of Liles point, has some foul ground off it, and should be given a good berth.
Malenas bank is 1,600 yards W. by N. of Liles point, and 6 fathoms was the least water found upon it when surveyed; it has, however, been seen to break heavily, and, as a shoal head may exist, it should be carefully avoided.
A bank of rocks, on which the sea breaks heavily in bad weather, lies about 1,200 yards ]S"W. by W. from Malenas bank. The bank is about 100 yards long in a NE. and SE. direction, and has a depth of 11 fathoms on it, and 19 to 27 fathoms, rocky bottom, between it and Malenas bank.
Quintero bay. — The land between Ooncon point and this bay, 10 miles to the northward, is rather high and rugged, and all this coast has a barren and weather-beaten aspect, trees being visible here and there only. During the winter and spring alone is there verdure near the seacoast. Quintero bay is roomy, and during southerly winds sheltered, but quite open to the NW. It affords spacious and good anchorage in the summer months, and some even prefer it to Val- paraiso. The best anchorage is in 13 fathoms, J mile east of Liles point, the west point of entrance. Some shelter during northerly winds may be found at the KE. corner of the bay, under Yentanilla
QUINTERO BAY — HOECON BAY. 273
X)oint, and also fresh water when the season is not very dry. The eastern shore of the bay is in shape a semicircle and is a beach. known as Herradura.
' The bay is not liable to such violent SE. squalls which are so fre- quent in Valparaiso. The anchorage has a -more convenient depth of water, and renders the harbor more capable of improvement than Valparaiso.
There is, however, little more protection from a norther in one place than in the other at present, and ships lying at Quintero in the winter season should have good anchors and be prepared to veer plenty of cable.
Tortuga rock. — This dangerous rock, steep-to, and showing only at low water, lies 250 yards offshore in the SW. part of the bay.
Durazno rock, 6 feet above water, 450 yards northward of Tortuga rock and 200 yards offshore, has an indifferent landing place just south of it.
Loncura rocks extend 400 yards in a northerly direction from the point of the same name, in the SE. part of the bay.
South Tortuga rock, awash at low-water springs, with 21 to 24 feet near it, lies about 250 yards from the land and 450 yards 8. 24^ E. (S. 390 E. mag.) of Tortuga rock.
El Corral is ^ small rocky bank with 4 fathoms over it and 6 fathoms around; it only breaks in heavy seas. The bank lies midway between and on a line joining the landing at Molle cove with the outer Loncura.
Ventanilla point is 2^ miles KE. of Liles point, and is the north point of Liles bay. The point is bluff with a small island close to. Eocks extend off from it 400 yards in a southwesterly direction.
Ventanilla cove, just east of Ventanilla point, has from 4 to 8 fathoms water, sandy bottom. There is lauding in good weather near the storehouse, where a small stream empties.
Quintero rocks, at 4 miles north of Liles point and 1^ miles west- ward of Horcon head, the north point of Quintero bay, are above water, but low, straggling, and dangerous. They are of a dark color, and are about J mile in extent. These rocks are locally known as the Isla de Gampicha.
The passage between the rocks and Horcon head is 1,800 yards wide, and has from 8 to 10 fathoms water over a rocky bottom; vessels using the passage should keep mid-channel.
Horcon head, the dividing point between Quintero and Horcon bays, has a remarkable hole in the extreme point of the cliff; the cliffs are about 80 or 100 feet high, and the land immediately behind them is higher and level. Inland are considerable heights, and in the distance the Cordillera of the Andes.
Horcon bay. — About a mile east of Horcon head there is a landing place between projecting rocks; good water and plenty of fish may be procured as well as firewood, and fresh provisions in small quantities. 1943— No. 89 18
274 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUDiBO BAY.
The roadstead is good daring sontherly winds, that is, in effect, daring nine months oat of the twelve, and there are 10 to 15 fathoms watet ^ mile north of the landing place, over a clean, sandy bottom.
Zapallar cove, abont 9 miles north of Horcon head, is ^ mile in extent east and west and 700 yards wide. The anchorage is protected from SW. winds by Litis islet, 130 feet high, also called morro del Potrerillo. The shores of the cove are rocky, except the eastern, which is unapproachable at all times.
The best anchorage is in the center of the cove in 11 fathoms, sand; vessels entering with SW. winds are becalmed by Litis islet, and should then anchor and warp in. Northwest winds throw in a heavy sea.
The landing place is on the southern shore of the cove, at a stony point, in a creek leading to the village, and may be recognized by a mole, which is used for loading and discharging lighters. Pigs, sheep, and poultry can be obtained, but beef and vegetables are scarce; water is good but scarce, and can be obtained in the NB. extremity of the cove.
Coast — At IJ miles N. ^ W. of Zapallar cove is Panulcillo point, the intervening coast being rocky; thence the coast trends IJ miles northward to Pite point, the western jwintof Papudo bay. Pite point is low and rocky, with numerous islets and rocks extending in a northerly direction from it, and it should be given a berth of at least 4 mile.
Port Papudo. — ^The shore is steep and free from outlying dangers. The high-pointed hill over port Papudo, named El Gobemador, or the Oerro Verde, 1,020 feet high, is an unfailing landmark for this small open bay. In its SW. part a small pier is run out, named Muelle Frances, to 'facilitate the embarkation of corn, wood, and copper, which are shipped here for Valparaiso. Through this port all the coal used in the copper and silver mines of this territory is discharged.
Fish may be taken by the seine. Water may be had from the SB. side of the port, but is scarce and of indifferent quality; wood and small quantities of fresh provisions may be obtained.
The country around Papudo is more fertile than at Valparaiso or anywhere to the northward of it; and there is reported to be a greater degree of moisture.
The best anchprage is at the southern part of the bay in 12 fathoms, with the pier bearing South (S. 15° E. mag.), distant 600 yards. It is safe during nine months of the year, but quite the reverse during the winter. The NE. point of the shore forming this bay is named Lilen, off which rocks extend 200 yards, having a passage between them leading to a good landing place. At J mile l^W. of Lilen point is Lobos island (low and rocky), to the eastward of which no vessel ought to pass.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port Papudo at 9h. 25m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Iiigua bay. — At 5 miles to the northward of Papudo, and eastward of a low rocky point, is Ligua bay, into which flows the Ligua river,
LIGUA BAY — PICHIDANGUI BAY. 275
not navigable; nor does the bay afford anchorage for any but the smallest craft, chiefly on account of the usual heavy swell.
At 400 yards NW. by N". of Ligua point is a dangerous sunken rock, upon which breakers are only seen in bad weather, or with a heavy swell.
At 2 miles K. by W. of Ligua point is Guallarauco point, having a small cove of the same name just east of it, where there is a landing place and good water; thence the coast trends 2 miles NNW. to Pichi- cui point, steep and rocky, and having a sand beach between.
The coast in the vicinity of Pichicui should not be approached nearer than 2 miles, to avoid Bogota rock.
Bogota rock, with 12 feet water, and 12 to 14 fathoms close around it, lies about 1,600 yards S. 47° W. (S. 32^ W. mag.) of Pichicui point, with 19 to 23 fathoms inside.
Cruz de la Ballena point, 3 miles northward of Pichicui point, has a remarkable small islet near it, and at 4 miles NN W. of this point is a high steep point named Puquen, which, being perforated perpendic- ularly, the lower part being below the sea, throws the sea into the air in a column of spray, and makes a noise that is heard some distance.
MoUes point, 6 miles NW. by N, of Cruz de la Ballena point, has foul ground extending 800 yards from it in a southerly direction.
At 1,400 yards eastward of Puquen point is Molles cove, fit only for coasters in fine weather.
From Molles point to Salinas point the broken dark-colored rocky shore trends north for 8 miles.
Fichidangui bay may be recognized by La Silla or Santa In^z, a saddle-topped and conspicuous hill 2,000 feet high, 2 miles SE. from the bay, and is an excellent mark.
Pichidangui is used occasionally for loading copper ore. There are only a few fishermen's huts near the harbor, but at the village of Quili- mari, behind the nearest hills, supplies can be obtained.
Locos island lies off Salinas point, the south point of the bay, and Casualidad rock, with 9 feet over it at low water, lies 350 yards N. 54^ E. (N. 390 E. mag.) from the north point of the island, with deep water between. There is neither ripple nor weed upon the rock, but it breaks when the swell sets in. The rock is small and in a dangerous position.
Directions. — La Silla or Santa In^z brought to bear S. 44^ E. (S. 59^ E. mag.) will lead up to the entrance, which shows plainly on approach- ing the land. Care must be taken to avoid the Casualidad rock. As the north point of Locos island is bold-to, by keeping it close aboard the rock will be avoided, and with the sea breeze a good berth can be fetched by hauling sharp up. The best anchorage is close to Locos island, on the eastern side, in about 5 fathoms water.
Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in Pichidangui bay at 9h. 20m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Caution. — When sailing along this part of the coast care should be
276 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY,
taken to avoid a few oatlying rocks which may be seen by day close to Salinas poiut.
Tapado shoali on which the sea breaks heavily, lies nearly 2 miles N. feo W. (N. 21° W. mag.) of Quelen point, the northern point of Pichidangai bay, and | mile from the shore. The channel between Tapa<)o shoa] and the mainland is foul, but at a distance of about 100 yards to the northward, westward, and southward of the shoal there are depths of 24 to 28 fathoms.
Changes point is low and rocky, with some breakers near it. From it Lobos point bears IN". 8° E. (N. 7° W. mag.), distant about 3 miles.
Negro bay. — Between Changes and Lobos points the coast inclining eastward forms a spacious bay, with an uneven and rocky shore. Its name is derived from the river which empties there. South of this river is a steep rock near the shore. Immediately to the south of the latter is a small bight where boats can land. North of the river is Pur- gatorio point, and northeastward of the same is another small bight and landing place for boats. Between Purgatorio and Lobos points the coast is bordered by many rocks and breakers, and being exjiosed to the constant SW. swell is dangerous to approach. During calm weather there is landing eastward of a little hillock named Cachina, frequently used by fishermen.
Lobos point is a small, round headland 75 feet high. At 400 yards S. 820 W. (S. 67^ W. mag.) of it is a dangerous rock of the same name, and about J mile N. 52^ W. (N. 67° W. mag.) of the point is a shoal on which the sea breaks in bad weather. The point should not, therefore, be approached under one mile.
About J mile S. 19° W. (S. 4° W. mag.) of Lobos point are some small islands named Negro islands. Between these and the coast are dan- gerous breakers, with a narrow but deep channel.
Vilos point derives its name from the village near it. Between this point and Lobos point is Quereo bay. It is of no importance, there being neither anchorage nor landing place, and the shore is bounded with stones and breakers to a distance of 400 yards in a NW. direction.
Huevos island. — At 800 yards W. by N. of Yilos point is Huevos island, rocky, barren, and of a yellowish color, the north side of which can be approached in calm weather. The channel between it and the shore is narrow and encumbered with rocks, on which the sea breaks, and should not be attempted by any vessel or even a boat. A little over 200 yards S. 60o W. (S. 45° W. mag.) of the south extremity of the island is a rock above water, with deep water close-to.
A rocky shoal, upon which a depth of 6 fathoms has been found, and over which the sea breaks in westerly gales, extends f mile northward from Huevos island.
Conchali bay. — Between Yilos point and cape Tablas the coast recedes, forming the spacious bay of Conchali, with two anchorages, which can be used according to the prevailing weather. In the center
VILOS BAY. 277
of the bay are two precipitous islands; one, the most central, named Isla Blanca, and the other NW. of it named Isla Yerde. Eastward of Isla Blanca is another rock, much smaller, notable for its blackish color, and named Eantasma, and a short distance NE. of it are three rocks above water.
Verde island is connected with the shore by a dangerous reef, on which the sea breaks heavily. Half a mile S. 60^ W. (S. 45^ W. mag.) of this island is a dangerous rock above water. There is a clear pas- sage for ships between Yerde and Blanca islands.
Vilos bay. — Northeastward of Huevos island, and IJ miles distant, is Chungo point, sandy, and of a whitish color, but rocky at its extrem- ity. Between these is Yilos bay, with an anchorage capable of con- taining many vessels, which lie at single anchor. The SW. swell reaches the anchorage, causing vessels to roll, but the holding ground is good.
The best anchorage for ships of moderate size is in 9 fathoms, sand and shell, !N^E. of the highest part of Huevos island, with the flagstaff of the port office at the western extremity of the town of Yilos, bear- ing S. 15^ W. (S. mag.); but a little to the SE. of this anchorage are two small banks of sand and stones having 2 and 2^ fathoms over them, respectively, and a rocky shoal named Chacabuco, having 4 J fathoms on it, lies with the port-office flagstaff bearing S. 6° E. (S. 21o E. mag.), distant 1,300 yards. With strong NW. winds, or with a swell from SW., the sea breaks on Chacabuco shoal.
Yessels of light draft anchor nearer the shore, but the bottom is irregular and sandy, with large stones.
The landing place is an iron pier extending from the middle of the town. When there is any swell no stranger should attempt to land without local assistance.
Caution. — During winter, with westerly windsj the swell is very heavy in Yilos bay, and the sea breaks between Huevos and Blanca islands. In anticipation of such, and to avoid losing anchors and being driven on shore, sailing vessels should put to sea. Steamers will find shelter during NW. gales in Nagu^ cove.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions can be obtained at moderate prices; vegetables are plentiful during the summer season, but scarce during winter. The water collected in pits near the village is brackish.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Yilos bay at 9h. 44m.; springs rise 5^ feet.
Playa de Agua Amarilla. — At 1 J miles northwestward of Chungo point is Penitente point, precipitous, 233 feet high, with a remarkable rock at its extremity, and having a hill behind it 390 feet high. Between these two points is a small bay, with a beach of loose yellow- colored sand, named Playa de Agua Amarilla, the sea breaking heavily on it. Near the southern extremity is a small cove named La Ballena, fiill of stones and useless to shipping. Behind the beach is a small
•»-•».
278 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAT.
lagoon where the scanty waters of the Chonchali river collect. The valley eastward is beautiful, fertile, and irrigated, a state which greatly contrasts with the arid condition of the neighboring hills,
Nagu6 cove, N. by W. of Penitente point, is about 1,000 yards in extent, having depths of from 4 to 10 fathoms, sand, decreasing gradu- ally toward the northern shore.
Tbe cx>ve is much too small for sailing vessels and entirely exposed to southwesterly winds. The lauding place is north of Conchas point, close to the rocks, and in the west part of the cove, but should not be attempted in bad weather. This cove is of considerable importance, being tbe only one where vessels find real shelter from northwesterly winds, which prevail during winter.
Nagu6 has excellent water, fish and cockles are plentiful, fowls, eggs, and vegetables can be obtained, and partridges are numerous.
Conchas point, the western point of Kagu6 cove, is surmounted by a sandy hill 105 feet in height. Its shores are rocky, from which extends a ridge of sunken rocks toward Verde island, with a passage for boats only. South of this point is a small cove bearing the same name. A short distance west of it is a second named Palitos. Both are only frequented by fishermen's boats in calm weather, and can not be recommended as landing places.
Penitente rock.— This rock lies awash at 1 J miles S. 37o W. (S. 22° W. mag.) of cape Tablas; between the rock and the cape is a wide, deep, and clear channel. Hfear this rock, but toward the SW., are two other small rocks; round the group the depth varies from 15 to 30 fathoms. Penitente rock is about 2^ miles distant from Huevos island, with an average depth of 40 fathoms between them. From the anchor- age of Vilos bay the rock bears N. 64° W.(N. 79^ W. mag.), distant 3 miles.
Cape l^ablas. — From Conchas point the coast forms the southern shore of a projecting and dangerous headland named cape Tablas. The perpendicular cliffs of this headland, which are surrounded by breakers, are 226 feet high. At ^ mile S. 37° W. (S. 22o W. mag.) of the cape lies a rock above water, and other dangers exist at a short distance from the point.
Tablas bay. — Eastward of cape Tablas the coast forms a bay of con- siderable extent, the best anchorage in which is in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the east extreme of Lilenes island bearing N. 15o B. (li^orth mag.), and the rock El Morito off cape Tablas bearing S. 64^ W. (S. 790 W. mag.). The depth of water varies from 20 fathoms at the entrance to 4 fathoms near the breakers along the shore. The anchor- age is good, well sheltered, and calm with southerly winds, but is exposed to winds between north and west.
The landing place is S. by E. of the anchorage, eastward of a small rocky point with a white rock at its extremity, but it can not be recommended on account of rocks and the usual swell.
There are neither provisions nor water for shipping unless obtained
PECHONOS POINT — CHIGUALOCO COVE. 279
from Kagu^, distant about ^ mile, but game is abundant, especially partridges.
Pechonos point, 256 feet high and forming the northern extreme of Tablas bay, is rocky and precipitoas; breakers extend 400 yards off shore from it.
Lilenes island, 2 miles K. by E. of cape Tablas, is high, nearly round, of a grayish color, and about 400 yards in diameter. The chan- nel between the island and Pechonos point is 800 yards wide, with from 8 to 11 fathoms, bottom sand and stone.
At J mile N. 61° W. (N. 66° W. mag.) of Lilenes island, and 2 miles N. 150 E. (North mag.) of cape Tablas, is Cebollin rock, on which the sea breaks at high tide, but which appears at low water; there are 16 fathoms at less than 200 yards around the rock ; between it-and Lilenes island the depth is 24 fathoms, rock.
Chigualoco bay. — At 6^ miles N. by E. of cape Tablas is Loberia point, low, and having a rock S W, of it. The coast between these two points forms the spacious bay of Chigualoco. The anchorage there is bad, being entirely exposed to the prevailing SW. and West winds. The coast is everywhere bordered by breakers extending 300 yards off shore, excepting the cove named Boca del Barco.
Boca del Barco cove, at 4f miles NE. from cape Tablas, has a good landing place in its SW. part on a gravel beach. In the middle of the cove is a rock, visible, and two more under water NW. of it. The depth varies from 8 to 15 fathoms, mud. Vessels loading in this cove anchor 600 yards westward of Salina point in 12 or 13 fathoms, sand and stone. The SW. swell makes the anchorage uncomfortable, but it is in every way preferable to Chigualoco cove.
Chigualoco cove. — ^Between Boca del Barco cove and the high part of Loberia point a rocky shoal named Bajos de Chigualoco lies J mile offshore, and is connected with the land by a submerged reef extend- ing in a NE. direction. Northeastward of it is the cove bearing this name, but, as already stated, it is nearly useless and dangerous to approach on account of the heavy breakers. The anchorage, in 7 to 12 fathoms, sand, is entirely exposed to the northward, but with NW. windsit is said to be sufficiently sheltered by the before-mentioned shoal.
The village of Chigualoco is NE. of Chigualoco cove.
The coast is low, rocky, and sloping toward the shore 5 IJ miles inland the hills rise to a height of 2,000 to 2,500 feet.
The landij^g place is ^. i E. of Bajos de Chigualoco, near a point slightly projecting, of a dark color and surrounded with rocks, named La Mula IVfuerta. Between this point and Loberia point are two coves separated by tlie small point Las Conchas; the first, named Mostaza cove, has a landing place in fine weather, but a pilot is indispensable. SW. by S. of it are breakers extending over J mile southji^ard of Conchas point.
The cove "SW. of Mostaza cove is unapproachable and of no im- portance.
280 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
Loberia point is of moderate height, rocky, and surrounded with breakers extending. 300 yards offshore. The coast continues 6 miles in a northerly direction until joining Huentelauquen cove, and is pre- cipitous. Half a mile off shore the depth varies from 15 to 18 fathoms, sand and stones; 1^ miles off, from 30 to 35 fathoms, and at a distance of 3 miles there are from 60 to 70 fathoms, mud.
HuenteHauquen cove is a small semicircular cove^ of no importance. The neighboring district is prosperous and fertile.
Pozo point bears from Huentelauquen cove K. 8^ E. (N. 7^ W. mag.), distant one mile. It is precipitous, and numerous rocks extend some distance off; the summit of the point is smooth and barren. Toward the SE. is a small cove where boats can obtain a landing in case of need.
A bank of 5J fathoms lies with Pozo point bearing N. 37^ E. (N. 22° E. mag.), distant 1,300 yards. In bad weather the sea breaks over it.
Choapa river. — This river, which separates the province of Acon- cagua from that of Coquimbo, empties into the sea immediately north of Pozo point, close to Its steep and rocky shore; the water supply is greatly reduced by the many canals made for irrigating the neighbor- ing district, so much so that during the summer months the river has not strength to break through the beach, and sandbanks form across the mouth. The open plain through which the river passes, more than 1 J miles wide, is fertile and well cultivated.
Ventana point, at about one mile from Pozo point, is low, project- ing, and dangerous, on account of the rocks which extend J mile in a SW. direction from it, and are not always visible. The shore between Ghoapa river and Ventana point is backed by sand hills, which, trending NE., join the hills farther inland.
Oscuro or Totoral covOi about 10 miles N. by W. from Yentana point, in latitude 31© 27' S., longitude 71° 36' W., extends nearly 800 yards in a NE. direction; it is 350 yards broad between the entrance points and 200 yards at its NE. extremity; midway between the entrance points there is a depth of 25 fathoms, sandy bottom, decreas- ing gradually to 5 fathoms near the head of the cove and 10 to 11 fathoms a short distance from the north and south shores.
From the shores of the cove, which are rocky, except at its head, where there is a sandy beach (approachable only in fine weather), the hills rise gradually toward the interior.
About 2 J miles south of Oscuro cove there are two detached rocks, above water, 150 yards from the shore; and from Burro point, the north entrance point of the cove, two sunken rocks, on which the sea breaks heavily, lie 150 yards in a southerly direction.
Anchorage. — Near the middle of Oscuro cove small vessels can obtain anchorage in 11 fathoms, sandy bottom; the cove is easy of access for vessels under sail, but on leaving the anchorage they should be towed out during the morning calms.
OSCURO COVE — LIMARI RIVER. 281
The landing place is just within the SE. entrance point of the cove.
Supplies. — At the Totoral estate, about one mile from Oscuro cove, a small supply of provisions can be obtained. Between the houses and the cove there is a stream of good water; there is also a small watering place about 100 yards from the beach.
Wood can be obtained in St. Abunda ravine. Partridges and doves can be shot.
Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, in Oscuro cove at 9h.; neaps rise 4J feet, springs 6J feet.
Mala cove, situated 1 J miles NNW. J W. of Oscuro cove, is smaller, open to the westerly winds, and has no landing.
Maitencillo cove, in latitude 31^ 17' S., is small, and fit for balsas only. At certain times a boat may land, but there are many hidden rocks. Its situation is pointed out by a large triangular patch of white sand, having an artificial appearance, on the face of the steep clifis which here line the coast; this mark is made by the sand and is drifted by the eddy winds against the north side of the cove.
A rocky shoal extends J mile seaward from a point one mile south of Maitencillo cove. It is about one mile long north and south, and is awash.
Coast. — The points of Yano have several rocks off them, and the whole interval of coast between them and Maitencillo, 10 miles south- ward, is composed of blue rocky cliffs about 150 feet high; the land above the cliffs rises to between 300 and 400 feet. The coves named Durrumbe and Sierra are mere indentations in the coast. The latter is slightly sheltered from SW., but neither of them are of any impor- tance. At 6 miles farther to the northward lies the deep valley of Teniente, with a sand hill on its northern side close to the shore, and at the mouth of the valley there is a small sandy beach.
Mount Talinai is a remarkable hill 2,300 feet high, about 3 miles in- shore; it is thickly wooded on the top, but the sides are quite barren.
Pilcomayo rock is awash, and lies about | mile off shore, in latitude 30O 53' S.
Fiedra de Lobos point, about 4 miles south of Limari river, has a reef extending one mile S W. by 8. from it, and named Piedra de Lobos.
Limari river. — The coast from Maitencillo cove extends in an un- broken line 33 miles N. by W. to the next opening, which is that of the Limari river.
The bay into which the river flows looks large from seaward, but it was found to be inaccessible. The north point of the bay, about one mile 'N. 30° W. (N. 45^ W. mag.) from the river's mouth, has a danger- ous reef lying one mile N. 75^ W. (West mag.) of it.
The land near Limari river rises suddenly to a range of hills about 1,000 feet high, which runs parallel to the ex>ast, and extends 2 or 3 miles north and south of the river. The summits of the* hills between Mount Talinai and 8 miles north of Limari Eiver have conspicuous
262 CHILOE ISLAIO) TO OOQUIMBO BAT.
straggling trees upon them. The north entrance jwint of the river is low and rocky ; the south point is a steep slope with a conspicuous white sandy patch on its side. The mouth is about J mile wide, but the surf breaks heavily right across; inside it turns a little to the NE. and then again to the eastward through a deep gully in the range of hills before mentioned.
Totoral point, a small peninsula with a high, sharp rock rising from its center, is 23 miles north of the Limari river and 9 miles south of Lengua de Yaca point. All this coast is rocky.
Totoral cove is just southward of Totoral point. It is caUed Totoral de Lengua de Yaca, and has a sajidy beach at its head. The entrance is so blocked by small islets and rocks, both above and below water, that it is impracticable for anything but boats, apd for them only in good weather. The outer breaker is about 400 yards from shore, but but when calm the swell sets directly in.
Lengua de Vaca point is very low and rocky, rising gradually in- shore to a round hummock 860 feet high, about 2 miles southward of the point. There are rocks nearly awash about 200 yards from the point, and at 400 yards there is but 5 feet water.
Bolivar rock. — This rock, upon which the steamer Bolivar, drawing 18 feet, struck in 1876, lies with Lengua de Yaca x)oint bearing S. 14o E. (S. 280 B. mag.), distant about 1 J miles.
Tongoi bay. — After rounding Lengua de Yaca point the coast is rocky and steep for about 2 miles from the point, where there is 15 fathoms about J mile off shore. About 3 miles from the point a long sandy beach commences, which extends the whole length of the bay, about 7 miles, as far as the peninsula of Tongoi; the southern part of the beach is named Playa de Tangue and its eastern part Flaya de Tongoi.
Anchorage. — Off the SW. end of the beach, near Tangue, there is anchorage about ^ mile offshore, in 5 to 7 fathoms; the bottom is a soft, muddy sand in some places, but in others it is hard. With south- erly winds the bay is smooth and the landing good, but a heavy sea sets in with a northerly breeze. This anchorage was once frequented > by whaling vessels. The hamlet consists of a few houses, but no sup- plies can be obtained, and the only water to be had is brackish; about 2J miles to the eastward there is good water, but it is at some distance from the beach, and the landing there is generally bad. All the way from Tangue to the peninsula of Tongoi there is anchorage in any part of the bay within 2 miles of the shore, in 7 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom.
Fort Tongoi is formed on the south side of Tongoi peninsula, and affords good anchorage for small vessels during northerly winds, abreast of the small viUage on the point, with the western extreme of the peninsula bearing K. 42^ W. (N. 56^ W. mag.), in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, with clay underneath; but no vessel, however small, should go into less than 4 fathoms, as the sea breaks inside of that depth when;
PORT TONGOI — SALIENTE POINT. 283
blowing hard from the northward. The best anchorage for large ves- sels in port Tongoi is in 7 fathoms water, with Eange peak and Church spire In line bearing N. 45^ E. (N. 31° E. mag.) and Chimney in line with Morgan rock K. 9° E. (N. 5o W. mag.).
With a strong southwesterly breeze the sea across the bay would render any vessel unable to remain at anchor in this berth south of the peninsula; but Barnes bay, on the north side, is completely sheltered from southerly winds.
The peninsula of Tongoi appears as an island from Lengua de Yaca point. The smelting works chimney near the west extreme is a promi- nent feature, and the red glare shows well at night.
The town of Tongoi stretches in one long street the whole length of the south side of the peninsula, and is connected by railway with the celebrated copper mines of Tamaya. The owners of the mines have embanked part of the shore with copper slag, and have constructed a pier provided with cranes, alongside of which small coasters load and discharge.
The company's copper ships are laden and unladen by launches. A steamer of the company runs from here to Herradura, and can be employed for towing. A trade in the shipment of ores to Herradura^ America, England, and Hamburg is carried on here by the company.
Cousino rocks, with 12 feet water, and 5 to 9 fathoms close around, lie S. 510 W. (S. 370 W. mag.), nearly 150 yai'ds from Err^zuriz point, the west extreme of Tongoi peninsula. ^
Morg^ rock, which covers at high water, lies with the smelting works chimney bearing N. 9^ E, (N. 6^ W. mag.), distant 200 yards.
Supplies of all descriptions can be obtained at Tongoi. Water is brought from a place situated about i mile eastward of the town, and is of good quality. Large stores of coal are kept for the smelting works, but are not generally available for steamers.
Tide& — It is high water, full and change, at port Tongoi at 9h. 10m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Mount Huanaquero, nearly 4 miles to the KE. of Tongoi peninsula, is a treble-peaked mountain, 1,850 feet above the sea, which forms a conspicuous mark on this part of the coast. The coast to the westward of this mountain is broken and rocky, affording no shelter for anything but a boat; to the northward there is a deep bay, well sheltered from southerly and westerly winds, but open to the northward; the anchor- age is in moderate depths, good holding ground, which decrease grad- ually to 10 fathoms about ^ mile from the shore. The best landing is in the 8W. part of the bay, where there are a few fishermen's huts. Between this and port Herradura there is no place fit for a vessel.
Saliente point, at 15 miles NNE. of Tongoi peninsula, is low and rocky, but rises to a high range of mountains to the eastward. Two sunken rocks, upon which breakers have been seen, lie about i mile off Saliente point, which should be given a good bertii. Care must be
284 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
taken in foggy weather not to mistake this point for Tortuga point, the north point of Coqui»iibo peninsula.
Port Herradura de Coquimbo, at 13 miles to the northward of Huanaquero point, is a small landlocked harbor, separated from the SW. part of Coquimbo bay by an isthmas of about one mile in breadth. The entrance between Herradura point on the south and Miedo point on the north is only 700 yards wide, but vessels of any size may freely enter with a leading wind by keeping the southern shore aboard, in order to avoid the rocks extending about 100 yards off Miedo point, and when in, may anchor in any convenient depth on a bottom of sand covering very tenacious marly clay.
Knowsley rock. — This dangerous rock has only 2 feet water on it at low-water spring tides, with 4 and 5 fathoms close to and around it and 2 fathoms between it and the shore. It lies near the northern shore, with Cerro Alegre, a conspicuous round hill in the N"E. corner of the port, bearing ]^. 69^ E. (N. 45° E. mag.) and the inner eastern point of entrance li^. 67o W. (N. 81o W. mag.), distant 300 yards.
Buoy. — The rock is marked by a red beacon buoy moored in 6 fath- oms on the SE. side. The two easternmost chimneys of the smelting woriis in line, will lead close to the southward of Knowsley rock.
Rock. — About J mile SE. of Knowsley rock, and near the anchorage, there is a rock with about 15 feet water and 4 J fathoms around; from the center of this rock the western chimney at the smelting works bears ]S^. 31o E. (N. 17° E. mag.), distant 700 yards.
]S'oTE. — ^The position of the rock above given must be considered approximate, and caution should be used api)roaching the anchorage.
Anchorage.— In the SW. angle of the bay ships will find shelter from all winds, in 7 fathoms, with the water so smooth that they may carry on any repairs with the utmost security during summer; or a good berth may bo had, in 8 fathoms, in the NE. corner of the port, 400 yards off the shore, abreast of Ouayacan, with the islet off Miedo point just showing.
With ]S"W. winds the swell finds its way into the port, causing a large ship to roll so much as to interfere with refitting or repairs during winter. Sailing ships sometimes find diflSculty in getting out, as the entrance is narrow and the wind draws through it into the bay, which, with the heavy swell that rolls on the coast and the deep water outside, makes it rather difficult for a deep-loaded ship, unless with a leading wind, which seldom prevails more than a few hours in the fore- noon, and is mostly light and uncertain ; a steam tug can be engaged to tow vessels out at a charge of from $30 to $50. Pilots can be obtained from Coquimbo.
Guayacan has large copper-smelting establishments belonging to a Chilean firm, and is the NE. part of Port Herradura, about J mile by land from the port of Coquimbo.
Supplies of nearly every description can be obtained at prices a
COQUIMBO BAY. 285
little higher than at Yalparaiso. Good water may be obtained from wells just east of the ruins of the town of Herradura, or will be brought alongside in a tank boat at $2 per ton. Both English and Chilean coal may be got from the smelting works for steaming purposes.
Coquimbo peninsula separates Port Herradura from Goquimbo bay. Its highest part, near the center, is 517 feetj Flagstaff hill, at its SW. part, is 365 feet, and Signal hill, ne^r the NE. part, overlooking the town and bay of Coquimbo, is 495 feet above the sea.
Tortuga point — From Miedo point the outer coast of Coquimbo bay trends about NE. by N. 2^ miles to Pelicanos head, the NW. point of Coquimbo bay, 600 yards westward of which is Tortuga point.
Lights. — The lighthouse on Tortuga point is square, built of wood, painted white, with a green top, and is 25 feet high. It stands about 200 yards within the extremity of Tortuga point, and exhibits at an elevation of 98 feet above high water a fixed and flashing white light, showing a flash of five seconds' duration every fifteen seconds, the par- tial eclipse lasting ten seconds, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 12 miles between the bearings of N, 74^ E. (N. 60^ B; mag.) through South to S. 64^ W. (S. 50^ W. mag.) 5 it is obscured coming from the southward.
A small light is shown from the extremity of Lynch mole at Coquimbo.
The light shows fixed red toward the road and white shoreward. 'It is an ordinary lantern light hoisted on a mast standing before a hut on the outer end of the mole.
The light is elevated about 26 feet above the sea, and is visible from a distance of about i mile.
Pelicanos rock. — The western shore of Coquimbo bay is high and bold, particularly at Pelicanos head, the northern extreme of Coquimbo peninsula, a few yards eastward of which lies this isolated rock, 26 feet high, having 4^ fathoms within a boat's length of it.
Dorsetshire rock is a sunken pinnacle rock, with 9 feet on it at low- water spring tides and deep water close outside it. Vessels bound to the anchorage oft* Coquimbo on rounding or passing Pelicanos rock should not approach it under 200 yards, nor in thick weather come under 15 fathoms, and should stand to the eastward toward La Serena until the conspicuous Church spire near the center of the town of Coquimbo comes in line with the extreme of Observation point, bearing S. 170 W. (S. 30 W. mag.), when they may haul in for the anchorage.
Havannah rock, north of Dorsetshire rock, is a patch of 6 fathoms, on which the lead would not rest.
Psgaros rocks. — The Pajaros Mnoa and Outer Pajaros are two rocky islets, with reefs and outlying rocks around them, lying to the NW. of Tortuga point, at distances of J and one mile, respectively, Outer Pajaros, 35 feet high, being one mile N. 40° W. (N, 54^ W.mag.) from Tortuga point. It is necessary in going into Coquimbo bay to give these i^ets and rocks a good berth in case of falling calm, lest
286 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUDiBO BAT.
the vessel should be obliged to anchor, the ground near them being rocky; and for these reasons all sailing vessels are advised to pass outside of them.
Pilcachos rocks lie to the sonthwestward of Pajaros Ninos rock, the outer one being above water. These rocks, together with the Pajaros Ninos, form the northern side of the Inner passage.
Inner passage. — The passage between Outer. Pajaros and Pajaros Nines rocks is not recommended for any vessel, but the Inner passage, between the !NW. part of Coquimbo i>eninsula and the Pilcachos and Pajaros Ninos rocks, is a clear passage, and suitable for steamers. On rounding; Pelicanos head the Pajaros Nifios rocks should be brought to bear S. 70o W. (8. 56° W. mag.), and kept on that bearing until Coquimbo church comes on, with Observation point bearing S. 17<^ W. (S. Z^ W. mag.), which latter mark leads eastward of the foul ground off Pelicanos head.
Tides. — ^It is high water, fall and change, in Coquimbo bay at Oh* 8m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Coquimbo bay is a much-frequented port, and the anchorage in the SW. part of it is well sheltered and secure at all seasons. It is 7 miles across north and south from Pelicanos head to Teatinos point, its north limit, and 3 miles deep.
Coquimbo is the chief mercantile port of north Chile, and is about, IdO miles to the northward of Valparaiso. The population in 1885 was about 6,000. The town has a convenient mole, to the westward of which is a smelting establishment and a wharf for loading and unloading copper, in which metal the hills in the neighborhood are very rich. Coquimbo has the same means of communication as Valparaiso, as all the packets touch here. A steamer of the Mexican and South American company occasionally tows ships in and out.
The United States is represented by a consul.
Winds. — The winds at Coquimbo are in general moderate and south- erly, or chiefly off shore, during the greatest part of the year, and are interrupted for short intervals only in winter by strong breezes from the NW.
Signals. — Ships approaching port Herradura or Coquimbo bay are signaled either from Flagstaff or Signal hills, each having a flagstaff with a yard across.
Supplies. — ^All kinds of provisions can be obtained, and plenty of good water is supplied by a tank vessel. Coal can be obtained, also, at about $11 per ton. The Coquimbo and Serena Eailway Company have a good foundry and fitting shop, where repairs to machinery of a moderate nature can be effected.
La Serena, the capital of the Province of Coquimbo, has 17,000 inhabitants; it stands on the iN'E. side of the bay, and is connected with Coquimbo by a railroad.
There is no landing at La Serena in consequence of the heavy surf, except in balsas, but its distance is only 6 to 7 miles from Coquimbo,
COQUIMBO. 287
The weather here is uniformly fine. In the summer it never rains, but in the winter months there are usually three heavy showers, lasting from sixteen to thirty-six hours each. Before rain the whole country is a barren, sandy desert, looking as hopelessly arid as the African Sahara. In a week or ten days after rain the ground is covered with verdure and flowers.
Fogs. — There is one point that should be noticed, which is the occur-/ rence of fogs here and all along this coast as far north as the river Guayaquil, particularly during the winter months. These fogs are fre- quent, sometimes very dense, and are a great source of anxiety to the navigator. This is especially the case on the Peruvian coast, where clear weather is an exception to the general rule.
Refitting. — Coquimbo bay is much to be preferred to port Herradura during the winter months, especially for ships requiring a refitting or extensive repairs.
Northers seldom blow, and when they do there is no danger if anchored near the berth recommended.
Landing. — Fogs cause much delay to boats proceeding to and from the ship in Coquimbo, and, as a rule, no boat should leave the ship without being provided with a compass.
Pilots can be obtained at a cost of $2 for a vessel of 200 tons, $3.50 for one of 1,000 tons, and $4 for vessels of over 1,000 tons.
Directions. — The land is remarkable and easily recognized 5 Flag- staff and Signal hills can be easily made out at a moderate offing. Coming from the southward, Lengua de Yaca hills form a good land- mark. In approaching the bay, a vessel must guard against being swept to the northward by the prevailing swell, current, and wind, which almost always come from the southward. After rounding the Pajaros rocks, a vessel should keep off the rocky ground between them and the Pelicanos rock. If the lead be kept briskly going when approaching either the eastern shore or the bottom of Coquimbo bay the chart will be a sufficient guide, as the water shoals gradually toward the beach, which is low and sandy.
At night. — This port may easily be entered at night with the aid of the light on Tortuga point and of the constant light shown by the smelting furnaces. Coming from the southward, run along at 3 miles from the land until the lights at the town of Serena bear S. 87o E. (K 790 E. mag.), then steer for them on this bearing, which will clear the Pajaros rocks; and when the furnace lights open off Pelicanos rock, bearing S. 17^ W. (S. 3^ W. mag.), the vessel can haul into the bay and anchor in 8 fathoms. Should the lights at the town of Serena be obscured by mist, the lights of the shipping at anchor in Coquimbo bay will sometimes serve as a guide to the anchorage, after losing sight of the light on Tortuga point.
Anchorage. — A good berth for a large ship during the winter months is, in 9 Mhoms, with Pelicanos rock bearing K. 34^ W. (N. 48o W. mag.)
288 CHILOE ISLAND TO COQUIMBO BAY.
and Ooquimbo church spire S. 46^ W. (8. 31o W. mag«). The best anchorage is in 6 fathoms, in the SW. angle of the bay; the holding ground is excellent; a large vessel should not shut in Pelicanos rock by Observation point. Vessels of war stationed on this part of the coast will find Ooquimbo a much better and safer place to remain in during the months of June, July, and August than Valparaiso.
Merchant shipping is berthed off the customhouse by the harbor authorities.
CHAPTER VI.
COAST OF CfllLE-COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE SAMA-THE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ, MAS AFUERA, ST. AMBROSE, AND ST. FELIX.
(H. O. Chart No. 1220.)
Teatinos point, the northern extreme of Ooqoimbo bay, is bold and rugged, the land behind it rising in ridges, which gradually become higher as they recede from the coast to Gobre mountain, 1,598 feet high. Poroto point, which makes as the north extremity of the bay when coming from the. northward, is low and rocky. Arrayan cove, 4 miles to the northward, is merely a small bight, behind a rocky point, affording shelter and landing tor boats during southerly winds, but is jantirely opjen to northerly.
Mount Juan Soldado is 3,900 feet high, its northern side is steep, and at its foot is Osorno bay, which does not aftbrd any shelter for the smallest vessel.
Tilgo island, in latitude 29^ 32' S., is low, rocky, and is separated from the shore by a channel about 200 yards wide, fit only for boats. The island, except when very close, appears to be only a projecting point; i mile west of it there is a large white rock. Eastward of Tilgo island on the mainland is the valley and hamlet of Yerba Buena.
PiyaroB islets are two rocky islets, 100 to 150 feet high, lying about 12 miles off this coast, bearing N. 25o W. (N. 39° W. mag.), distant about 23^ miles from the light on Tortuga point; the northernmost islet is much smaller than the other, and has a reef extending i mile from it in a SW. direction. A reef that sometimes breaks extends consider- ably to the southward of the southernmost islet.
Light. — On the southern Pajaros islet stands a white lighthouse, from which, at an elevation of 14S feet above the sea, is exhibited a flashing white light, showing one flash of ten seconds' duration every minute, the light being totally eclipsed between the flashes. The light should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 13 miles. It is obscured by the northern islet between the approximate bearings S. 180 E. (8. 320 B. mag.) and 8. 22© E. (8. 36o E. mag.).
TotoraliUo bay, about 3 miles northward of Tilgo island, faces the XW., and has three small islets off the west point, the largest of which has a flagstaff on it.
Zoraida rock, the existence of which is doubtful, is said to be about 20 yards long north and south, with 14 feet water over it, and to lie
1943— No. 89 19 289
290 COQUIMBO BAY TO MOURO DE SAHA.
with the northernmost of the three islets off the west point of the bay, bearing S. 56° W. (8. 42© W. mag.), distant 600 yards. A ridge of pin- nacle rocks is said to extend in a NE. direction from Zoraida rock, so that it shonld be given a good berth on this side.
Directions. — ^Vessels shonld ronnd the north islet closely, as it is steep-to, and anchor abont 400 yards eastward of'* the largest island, in 9 to 12 fathoms, sand; the bottom in all other parts of the bay is rocky.
The best entrance for small vessels is between the southernmost island and the point, where there is a channel about 200 yards wide, with 8 to 12 fathoms water. The dry rock off the point on the mainland shonld not be approached nearer than 100 yards, as a sunken rock lies nearly that distance westward of it. There is no channel between the islets, the space being blocked by breakers.
The landing is indifferent, although there are three piers for loading and discharging lighters; both with NW. and SW. winds the swell often interrupts that work.
The village of Totoralillo is chiefly dependent on the Mexican and South American company, who own copper-smelting works here. A small steamer belonging to the company runs occasionally to Herradura. No fresh provisions can be obtained; water is scare and •of inferior quality.
Temblador is a small cove to the NE. of Totoralillo, but the landing there is bad, and it is not so well sheltered.
Chungungo island, low and rocky, lies about 5 miles northward of Totoralillo cove and a mile off shore. It serves to mark the small cove of the same name one mile NE. of it; there is a rocky jwint abreast of it, and a little way inshore a remarkable saddle hill, with a nii)ple in the middle, which to a person coming from the southward appears as the end of the high range that runs thence to the eastward of Totoralillo, and is from 1,600 to 1,800 feet high.
Mar Brava point. — ^At 3 miles northward of Chungungo island there is a large white sand patch, which is seen distinctly from the westward; it is at the south end of Choros beach, which runs for 7 or 8 miles to the NW. to cape Ohoros, which is low; a heavy surf always breaks upon Choros beach.
Choros islands, three in number, lie oft* cape Choros. Gaviota island, the easternmost, is low, and so nearly joins the shore of the mainland that nothing but a boat can pass. The channel between this inner island and the other two islands is obstructed by a reef extend- ing from Gaviota island SW. one mile; the westernmost Choros island, named Pelas Damas, is the largest, about 2 miles long; the top is much broken, and the SW. end resembles a castle; there is a small pyramid off the south point, and breakers lie about J mile from the shore. About i mile to the westward of the northern island there is a rock nearly awash.
Choros bay, on the north side of cape Choros, and sheltered fiom
TORO REEF-^-CAPB LEONE8. 291
the southwestward by Gaviota island, affords anchorage in 6 fathoms, i mile off the northeastern part of Gaviota island.
Toro reef, lying 6J miles S. 14° E. (8. 28^ E. mag.) of the western Ghoros island, is dangeroos, being only awash, but breakers are gener- ally to be seen on it.
Carrizal point, about 8 miles "KKW, of cape Ghoros, is low and rocky, with a remarkable round hummock; to the southward of it is the little cove of Apolillado, where there is no shelter from westerly winds, and the landing is bad; there are two small rocky islets off the south point of the cove.
Carrizal bay, to the northward of Garrizal i)oint, is not fit for ves* sels; a heavy surf breaks about J mile from the shore. The north side of the bay is formed by a rocky point, with outlying rocks and breakers all round it. There is a landing place in the bay near the SB. comer where the rocky coast joins the beach, but in bad weather the surf breaks outside of it.
Chanaral bay. — Eastward of the north point of Garrizal bay is Gaviota bay, in which there is an anchorage of 11 fathoms at 800 yards K 370 B. (N. 230 E. mag.) of the point. The bottom is rocky and there is no landing. Northward of the north point of Gaviota bay is Ghana- ral bay, which is well sheltered from north and south winds, but the swell sets in heavily from the SW., which makes the landing bad. The best landing is in a small cove on the north side of thie bay, but it is bad when there is any swell. On the beach, in the bight of the port, there is usoaUy too much surf to land.
The land round Ghafiaral bay is low, with ridges of low hills rising from the x>oints; their tops are rugged and rocky, and the land is sandy and barren. A range of high hills will be seen several miles from the shore, but between them and the coast there are several smaller hills. The village of Ohanaral is about 3 miles from the port, and is said to consist of about twenty houses; there are none near the port.
Chafiaral island, about 4 miles westward of Ghanaral bay, is nearly level, except on the south end, near which there is a remarkable mound with a nipple in its center. There are rocks nearly J mile from the south point of the island and one about the same distance off the K W. point. On the north side there is a small cove, where boats can land when the wind is from the southward,* and there is anchorage close off it, but the water is deep. A sealing schooner was lost in this cove from a Iforther coming on while she was at anchor.
Cape Leones. — ^The coast between the north point of Ghanaral bay and cape Leones is low. Gape Leones has several rocks and reefs extending from it a distance of ^ mile; there is also a reef which projects nearly a mile from the shore a little to the northward of Ghanaral bay.
Immediately east of the cape is Inglesa cove, having a sandy beach at the head on which landing may be effected in fine weather.
292 COQUIMBO BAT TO MOBBO DE SAliA.
Cape BascunaiL — From cape Leones the coast treoda northevly fcut 5 miles to Pajaros i)omty and from thence about ]^. by B. 3 miles to eape Bascunan^ which has a small rocky islet about 400 yards off it. The land inshore rises gradually to a low ridge about i mile from tibe sea; the high range is about 3 miles inshore.
Saroo bay is well sheltered from southerly winds, and tfa^re is aQchorage in from 8 to 12 fathoms about i mUe from the shore, but the landing is bad.
Quebrada Honda bay, the next bay NE. of Sarco bay, affords some shelter from southerly winds; a deep gully runs inland from its BE. corner, at the mouth of which there is a sandy beach, Vith anchorage ^ mile off, in from 8 to 12 fathoms, but the landing is not good* In this bay is the village of Sarco, where there is a oopper^smeUing establish- ment and a pier for loading barges.
Fena Blanoa oore^ — ^To the northward of Quebrada Honda bay the high land comes close to the coast; the sides of the hills are covered with yellow sand, the summits are rocky, and the whole coast has a miserable, barren appearance. About 4 miles to the northward <tf the deep gully there is a projecting rocky point at the foot of the high range of hills, with a very remarkable black, sharp peak near its terminatimi. At 2^ miles northeastward of this projecting point is PeiiaBlancaeove, which to vessels coming from the westward will api)ear like a small sandy bay, as the foot of the mountains just here is sand; with the exception of one or two huts there is littie to be seen till dose in; it can not easily be mistaken for Sarco if a vessel makes out Alcalde poinb^ which is 8 miles K. ^ E. of Pefla Blanca. It is best to moor in about 10 fathoms, placing the port anchor to the southward, the starboard anchor to the westward, and the stern anchor to the eastward, as the swidl mostly comes in from the westward* The landing is indifferent; these is a pier close to the huts.
Supplies. — Goal can be obtained in small quantities ; fresh provisfams are procurable, but require twenty-four hours' notice.
Alcalde point. — ^The coast to the northward of Pena Blanca treads about NNE., and is very rocky for about 6^ miles, when it trends to the westward to Alcalde point, forming a deep bay, in the KE. corner of which is a small beach named Tontado. Alcalde point is a rocky promontory forming the seaward termination of a projecting spur of the coast range. The point is rocky, with small detached rooks close-to ; inshore it rises a little, and there are several small rocky lumps pro- jecting out of the sand, one of which from the southward shows very distinctly, is higher than the rest, and forms a sharp peak, a lltlde inshore of which the land rises suddenly to the break of the high range.
Ouasco pointy 6 miles northward of Alcalde point, is low and rug- ged, with several small islands between it and Port Guasco, one only of which is of any size, separated from the shore by a very narrow
PORT GUA8CO. 293
cbannd, so as to appear &om seaward to be the x)oint of the mainland; it ahows distinctly as an island when coming from the south ward, but from the northward is confused with the other rocks behind. To the SW« of the island there are several other small rocky islets, the western <nie being peaked and 209 feet high.
A little inshore of the S W, extreme of the bay there is a short range of low hills, forming four rugged peaks, named the Spinsters. The eastern and highest is 605 feet high. They show distinctly from the southward and westward. The land falls again inside of them for a short distance, and then rises suddenly to a high range, running east and wesl^ and directly to the southward of the anchorage. The top of tiie range forms three round summits, the easternmost of which, being 2,075 feet, is a little higher, and the middle one a little lower than the other; they all form part of the Oerro de Guasoo.
At 44 0^^ 2^S- by E, from the inner port is another range of hills. The highest is 2,180 feet above the sea, on the south slope of which there is a sharp peak, 1,492 feet, rising immediately above a valley that eonveys a small stream of exicellent water to the sea. A heavy surf breaks on its bar. There is a narrow lagoon, or small streamlet, in the valley near^ the port, but the water is brackish.
The country around presents a more barren appearance than any part of this coast, the ground being everywhere covered with small stones, mixed with sand, out of which projects masses of craggy rocks.
Fort Ouasco is to the eastward of a point with two large rocks off it, lying 3 miles JS. 59° E. (N. 45° E. mag.) of Guasco point. Although an inconvenient anchorage, it is one of the places at which the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers call, as it is the port of Yallenar, a eonsiderable town in the interior. There is a customhouse, and a smelting establishment i mile from the landing place, where a good deal of copper is manufactured. The large smelting establishment, with its four tall chimneys, is a conspicuous object.
SnppUas. — Fresh provisions and water can be obtained, but the water is difficult to get for shipping.
Light.-*-A lantern light showing fixed red seaward and white shore- ward, and visible about one mile, is exhibited at the outer of the two landing piers at Port Guasco. A fixed white light is shown on Outer rock when a steamer is expected.
Anchorage. — ^Although a safe place for any vessel, owing to the moderate depth of water and good holding ground, Guasco is anything but a good place for dispatch. From May to September northerly winds prevail, causing great delay in landing or shipping cargo«
RoUers^ — Heavy rollers frequently set into the bay, generally at the full and change of the moon, when it is impossible to land or ship cargo.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Guasco at 8h, 30m«; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet.
294 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE SAMA.
Lobos point, about 10 miles north of Port Gaasco^ is ragged, and lias several small hammocks. To the southward of the point there are some small sandy beaches, with rocky points between them, bat a tremen- dous surf breaks throughout, allowin g no shelter even for boats. A little inshore of the point there are two low hills, and within them the land rises suddenly. In the bay to the northward of the point there are several small rocks. About 6 miles north of Lobos point there is a reef which extends J mile off a low, rocky point, the outer rock of which is high and detached from the others.
Herradura de Carrizal bay. — About 11 miles northward of Lobos point is another rugged point with several sharp peaks on it, and about IJ miles northward is the small bay of Herradura (distinguished from the other Herraduras, on the coast of South America, by the additional name of de Carrizal), which can hardly be made out till quite close. Between the rugged point and Herradura there are breakers J mile from the shore.
Off Herradura point, the west point of the bay, there is a patch of low rocks, which, in coming from the southward, appears to extend right across the mouth of the bay; but the entrance faces the NW. and lies between that low patch and a small islet to the NE. of it, and there is no danger at 100 yards from either of them. The bay curves in about J mile to the eastward of the islet, and is sheltered from both northerly and southerly winds, but with a strong northerly breeze a swell rolls in round the islet. It is rather small for large vessels, and they would not be able to lie at single anchor in the inner part of the cove, but there is room enough to moor across at about J mile above the islet in 4 fathoms, fine sand.
The landing is better than in any place between it and Ooqnimbo, but the want of water is a very serious inconvenience. There is a small lagoon about one mile off in the valley at the head of the bay, but it is worse than brackish; yet the peons who work at shipping the ore make use of it. A deep valley, which runs in from the head of the port and separates the high ranges of hills, is a good mark to know the place. The range to the southward of the valley is the highest near the coast, and is distinctly seen both from the northward and southward. There is a small nipple on the highest part of it.
Port Carrizal Bego, about one mile to the NE. of Herradura de Carrizal, is small, but well sheltered from southerly winds by a reef of rocks extending in a northerly direction from the west point of the bay and terminating in a small (Carrizal) island 20 feet high. It is a rising place, having three large smelting works. The mines, which are distant about 20 miles and connected with the port by a railway, employ upward of 3,000 men. It is found more convenient to get the ores from the mines to this port than to Guasco. It will in future be the shipping port.
A good deal of trade is carried on, importing coal and exporting copper. The railway runs to Carrizal Alto.
PORT CARRIZAL BAJO. 295
Conqnest rock is small in extent and has a depth of 19 feet at low- water spring tides, with 4^ fathoms close on the southern side and 9 fathoms on the northern side. It lies with the northernmost rock (above water) north of Carrizal island S. 78o W. (S. 66° W. mag.), dis- tant 140 yards. There is another rock, with 16 feet water, about 100 yards K 69^ W. (K 82o W. mag.) of Conquest rock; both of these rocks lie just within the edge of the 6-fathom line of soundings.
A shoal spot, with 18 feet over it at low water, lies in a position from which the north extreme of Carrizal island bears S. 33^ W. (8. 20° W. mag.), distant 200 yards.
Arequipa rock is about 30 yards in extent, with 26 feet on it at low water and 7 to 10 fathoms (over sand) around at the distance of about 100 yards. . It lies with the north extreme of the island, on the west side of entrance to the port, bearing S. iP B. (8. 17° B. mag.), distant 500 yards, and where a depth of 6 fathoms has heretofore been charted.
The rock is always dangerous, however, even for light-drafb vessels^ when there is any swell.
The lower gate of the cemetery, in line with a conspicuous peak bear- ing 8. 490 E. (8. 620 B. mag.), leads on Arequipa rock. Bither corner of the cemetery in line with the same peak leads clear of it on each side, respectively.
Anchorage may be obtained in 6 to 7 fathoms, sand, in the outer part of the bay. The inner anchorage is sheltered from 8W. winds by the reef of rocks and the small island off the west point of the bay. The holding ground is good, but it is not advisable to approach the eastern shore to a less depth than 5 fathoms; rocky patches should be avoided. Northwest winds seldom blow home, but send in sufficient swell to stop the lading of vessels.
Vessels are berthed eastward of the above-mentioned island in 4f fathoms, and are moored head and stern, with head to the northward. The services of a pilot can be obtained.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions can be obtained, but no ship's stores. Water of an indifferent quality can be obtained from the railway com- pany for $4.50 per ton, and must be shipped in boats from a pipe at the end of the pier. Both Bnglish and Chilean coal can be procured.
Ordinary repairs to machinery can be effected at the workshops of the railway.
At Carrizal Alto, about 25 miles by rail from the port, there is a Government hospital.
The coast northward of Carrizal Bajo is bold and rugged, with out- lying rocks 200 yards off most of the points. About 7 miles north of Carrizal Bajo there is a high point, with a round hummock on it, and several rugged hummocks a little inshore. To the northward of this high point there is a cove, sheltered from the southward, where coasters anchor, but it is not fit for large vessels. There is another cove similar to it about a mile farther north. A short distance northward of this
iv*:.^.
296 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE SAliIA.
cove a high rocky point terminates the high part of the coast, and north of that point is the small port named Matamoros.
Fort Matamoros is well sheltered from southerly winds, and the landing is good. Jn its inner* part a vessel drawing not more than 10 or 12 feet might moor, sheltered from northerly winds, in 3 or 4 fathoms, but with a northerly wind there would be a heavy swelL There is anchorage farther out under the point, in 8 to 10 fathoms, but a vessel should not go nearer the shore than 8 fathoms, as the bottom in less than tiiat depth is rocky. During the summer months this would be a good port for small merchant vessels, but there is no fresh water. Al»*east of it the high range of hills recedes from the coast, which is low, with some moderately high rocky hills a little inshore.
Totoral B^jo cove. — Korthward of Matamoros 2 miles is the low rocky point of Totoral, to the northward and eastward of which there is a small deep bay, at the mouth of the valley Totoral Bsyo. In this bay apparently there is anchorxi^e for a vessel, but on account of the heavy surf on the beach and the bad landing it has not been examined. To the northward of this the low hills are not rocky, but covered with yellow sand, except near the summits.
Figonal cove. — ^Korthward of Totoral Bajo 6 miles there is a remark- able rocky point called Pena Blanca, with a detached white rock off it, and a hump with a nipple on it a little inshore. Northward of this lies the small eove of Phonal, which, when coming from the southward, may be easily known by the above nipple and by a small island (Oima Ouadrada) with a square-topped hillock in its center, off the point to the northward of the cove. A range of hills, higher than any near this, rises directly from the north side of the cove; and in the valley about a mile from it there is a range of small rugged hills, rising out of the low land.
There is a small village at Pajonal, but the water is bad.
There is a dangerous breaker about 800 yards westward of the south extreme point, but it shows only when there is a heavy swell.
The anchorage is better sheltered from southerly winds than any to the southward, except Herradura de Carrizal, and there ought not to be much swell, as Oachos point and Gima Ouadrada island to the north- ward project considerably to the westward. The southerly swell rolls into the mouth of the cove, but along the south shore it is smooth and the landing pretty good. The best anchorage is about half way up the cove, near the south shore, in 5 fathoms; near the head it is shallow.
Salado bay. — Gachos point, about 4 miles northward of Pajonal and 13^ miles northward of Totoral point, has an island and several rocks off it. Both the island off Gachos point and Gima Guadrada island, 2 miles to the southward of it, may be passed at i mile, but there is no passage inside them. From Gachos point the coast recedes and forms the si>acious bay of Salado. Glose round the point is the large cove of Ghasoo, which at a distance looks very inviting, but one mile
"1
MEDIO COVE— POET C0PIAP6. 297
ff om its head there is only 3 fathoms, with rocks all round, some above water aud others sunk, which, from the bay being well sheltered from the southward, do not show. There are two patches off the eastern point that are always uncovered,
Medio cove. — In the depth of Salado bay is Medio cove, quite dear of danger. At its south corner is good anchorage in 7 fathoms, well sheltered from southerly winds, but open to northerly; the water is quite smooth with a southerly wind, and no swell could ever reach it unless it blew from the northward. There is a cove 2 miles KE. of this where a vessel may anchor, but it is not so well sheltered. There are no inhabitants in Salado bay. Fresh water can not be obtained.
S€Uado point. — ^The land at the back of Salado bay is low, but to the northward of the northernmost cove it rises to a ridge of sand hills, running east and west, and terminating at Salado point, which is steep and rocky, with a cluster of steep rocky islets off it. To liie northward of the point the coast is rocky and broken, with rocks a short distance from the shore for about 4 miles then a rugged point named Barranquilla, with a high sharp-topped hill a little inshore, which, from the southward, shows a dauble peak.
Barranquilla cove.— Directly to the northward of BarranquiUa point is the cove named Barranquillai. Small coasters ship copper ore here, but it is quite unfit for larger vessels. There is a landing place at the head of the cove, and there is fresh water near it. The best anchorage is in 5 fathoms, 100 yards from the shore; farther out it is too deep. Medio cove, to the southward, is much superior to Barran- quilla and might be a much better place to embark the ore.
Dallas point. — ^From Barranquilla to Dallas point, 10 miles to the KNW., the coast is rocky and broken, without any place sufficient to shelter the smallest vessels. Dallas point is all black rock, with a hum- mock on its extremity, and coming from tilie southward it appears to be an island; the land rises to a range of low sandy hills, with rocky sum- mits. The patch lying one mile off Dallas point is awash, and the channel between it and the point appears to be wide enough for 'any vessel, though the reef off the point projects so far as to show in a high sea, a breaker ^ mile out; but at i mile farther there are 11 fathoms. When the swell is not high the breakers off the point would not show; they appear to be detached from the reef which joins the point.
Port Copiapd (Puerto Viejo de Copiapd). — ^Detached reefs extend nearly 4 miles in a N. 16° W. (N. 28^ W. mag.) direction from Dallas point, and inside them, in the bight of the bay, is Port Copiap6, but the roadstead off it is bad, the swell rolls in heavily, and the landing is worse than in any port to the southward. Its position may easily be known by the Morro, a remarkable hill, 850 feet high, nearly level at l^e top, with two small hummocks near its eastern extremity, 11 miles northward of Port Copiap6. The east fall is very steep. The end of another range of hills shows to the northward. To the SW., apparently
298 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE SAMA.
forming part of the same range, is another hill, the west side of which forms a steep bloff. In coming from the southward these hills will be seen in clear weather before the land about the port can be made ouL
This port is now almost deserted, the trade being transferred to Oaldera.
Anacachi rock. — ^The chief dangers to be avoided in steering for the anchorage off Gopiap6 are the Oaja Grande, Janequero and Anacachi rocks. Between these and Dallas point are several other small but dangerous patches of rock. Anacachi rock lies about J mile JS". 36° W. (N. 490 W. mag.) of the Caja Ohica, and has only 10 feet on it at low water.
Caja Grande is a bed of rocks under water, about f mile long, north and south, and ^ mile broad; its position is apparent from the heavy breakers on it whenever a swell sets into the bay.
Caja Chica, 2J miles N. 32o W. (N. 45© W. mag.) of Dallas point, is a small rocky shoal, having in its center one large sharp-topped rock always above water.
Janequero rock lies 1,000 yards N. 32© W. {If. 46o W. mag.) of Oaja Grande, and has 8 feet of water on it at low water. It is very small and steep-to.
Isla Grande, lying 700 yards off the north point of Oopiap6 bay, is remarkable, having a small nipple on each extremity; that on the east- em end is the higher; and just to the westward of the middle of the island there is another small, round nipple.
The channel between this island and the main is clear of danger in the middle, but such a heavy swell rolls through that it is scarcely fit for any vessel. Off* the north end of the island there is a reef project- ing under water 400 yards length to the eastward; but at 200 yards from the reef there is 7 fathoms. The mainland abreast the island appeared to have no danger off its points, and the rocks to the southward of it are inside the line of the northern points. To the northward of the island there are several small rocks, one of which is high, but there is no danger at J mile from them.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Oopiap6"at 8h. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Directions. — ^The morro de Copiap6, a remarkable hill a short dis- tance inland, 11 miles northward of Copiap6, which may be seen 20 or 30 miles off in clear weather, kept open westward of Isla Grande, will lead well to the westward of all the dangers off Oopiapd. The passage between the Caja Ohica and Oaja Grande is very dangerous on account of the Anacachi rock; the Oaja Ohica should be given a berth from 800 to 1,200 yards, but unless the wind is steady, and to be depended on, this passage should not be taken on any account. Neither should the passage between Dallas point and the southern shoals ever be taken by a sailing vessel; for should the wind fail, which, when so near the high cliffs in the vicinity, is a common occurrence, she would be placed in a dangerous position.
i
MEDIO POINT — PORT CALDERILLA 299
The best passage is to the northward of the G^ja Grande, and to avoid these rocks when coming from the southward, steer for Isla Grande on a IS. 58^ E. (K. 45^ E. mag.) bearing until the northern end of the sand- stone rocks, to the northward of the town of Copiap6, bears at least S. 54P E. (S. 67^ E. mag.); then haul in for that mark; and when the huts bear S. 36^ E. (S. 49° E. mag.), steer toward them, and anchor where convenient.
Coming from the northward, vessels will most probably have to work in, in which case the shore may be approached to i mile and Isla Grande to within that distance. When approaching the Gaja Grande stand no nearer to it, nor any of the shoals, than to bring the western end of Isla Grande to bear N. 9© W. (N. 22o W. mag.), or the bluff part of Dallas point S. 9o E. (S. 22o E. mag.).
Anchorage. — ^A long scope of cable should always be given in Oopi- ap6 road, and it might be prudent to drop another anchor under foot, as the rollers often set in with little warning, and the bottom is bad holding ground. The soundings are regular, from 12 fathoms at f mile off shore to 3 fathoms close up to the beach, but the bottom is chiefly a hard yellow sand, with occasional patches of yellow sandstone rock. The inshore anchorage for a large vessel is in 6 fathoms, with the Caja Ghica bearing S. 81^ W. (S. 68^ W. mag.) and western extremity of Isla Grande N. 25° W. (K. 38o W, mag.).
Medio point, 4 miles northward of Isla Grande, is very rocky; on the SW. point there are two rugged hummocks, and several rocks and islets close to the shore, but no danger outside of them. From this to Morro point, 5 miles to the northward, the shore is steep and clif^, with remarkable patches of white rock in the cliffs to the southward of the point, which is steep, with rugged lumps on its suipmit. The morro de Gopiap6 rises suddenly a little inshore about midway between Medio and Morro points.
(H. O. Chart No. 1219.)
Port Calderilla. — ^After passing Morro point, Ingl6s bay opens to the SE., and in it are several small rocky patches; and at the north end of the long sandy beach there is^a piece of rocky coast, off the extreme point of which there is a small island. Port Galderilla is just to the northward of this island, round the peninsula of Galdereta, off which, about 200 yards, there is a rock awash at high water, but it always shows. After passing this rock the land is steep-to, and may be approached to within 200 yards. There are several coves in the port, in the first of which, on the starboard hand going in, there is anchorage for small vessels, but the bottom is stony and bad; there is a low island to the eastward of this cove, and about halfway between it and East point will be found the best anchorage with southerly winds. Small vessels may go much closer into the bight to the SE. of the island, where the landing is good.
The cove in the KE. corner of the port is well sheltered from north- erly winds, and no sea could ever get up in it, but the landing is not
300 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORBO I)E 8AMA.
good; the best there is at a rocky point at the soath end of the lOS. beach. This KE. cove is by far the best in the port, bat it has no fresh water. The sonth cove is too shoal for a vessel of any size to go higher up than abreast of East point, where she will have 4 and 5 fathoms i& mid-channel. The bottom in the port is hard sand, and may be seen, in 12 fathoms water.
Fort Caldera is a fine bay, fairly sheltered, bat more open than port Galderilla. l^orthers sometimes blow into the bay, throwing a good deal of sea into its soathem angle; bat they are seldom of snfficient strength to be dangerous. Oabeza de Yaca point is also some protec- tion, and the NE. corner of the bay is quite defended. The land is entirely covered with loose sand, except a few rocks on the points; the bottom of the bay is low, but the hills rise a little inland, and the ranges become higher as they recede from the coast. To the eastward there is a remarkable sharp-topped hill, the sides of which are covered with sand, with two low paps near it.
A sailing vessel should be carefril in approaching Oaldera without sufficient wind, as both current and swell will tend to set her on the rocks north of 'Francisco point.
The jetty is 740 feet long, with 20 feet water alongside the outer extreme and about 18 feet at the sides near the end. Boats should be cautioned of a rock, with little water over it, near the steps. The rail- way communicates with the city of Copiap6, about 60 miles distant.
The United States is represented by a consular agent.
Wreck. — The wreck of the Blanco Encalada lies in 6 fathoms water f mile K 85^ E. (N. 62© E. mag.) of the signal station. A green light marks the wreck, and it is shown from a lantern attached to one side of an iron Staff placed on the wreck. On the side of the staff opposite the lantern there is an iron cage marked Blanco in white letters. The cage, staff, and lantern are painted green.
There are no buoys marking the wreck.
Light— A lighthouse 42 feet high stands on Oaldera point, the west entrance point of port Oaldera; it is square, and painted white. Fnmi the lantern is exhibited, at an elevation of 121 feet above high watery a fixed and flashing white light, the flashes taking place at intervals of one and one^half minutes, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 15 miles.
On the night of the mail steamer's arrival a red light is shown from the mole head to enable her to haul alongside for coaling.
The glare from the smelting works can be seen a long distance seaward.
Chango rock. — This pinnacle rock, about 16 feet in extent, with a depth of 3^ fathoms on it at low water and from 16 to 27 fathoms close around, lies with Oaldera church bearing S. 15^ E. (8. 28^ E. mag.), Signal station S. 8^ W. (8. 6° E, mag.), and Oaldera Point lighthouse 8. 470 W. (S. 340 W. mag.). In heavy weather the sea breaks upon the rock.
PORT CALDERA — OBISPITO COVE. 301
Pidpo rock.— This suuken danger, lying K. 80© W. (S. 87o W. mag.), distant 1,700 yards from Negro point, and upon which the sea breaks in heavy weather, is about 6 feet in extent, with a depth of 4^ fathoms on it at low water and from 10 to 22 fathoms close around. From the rock Oaldera church bears 8. 6o E. (S. 19° B. mag.) and Oaldera Point lighthouse S. 28o W. (8. 15° W. mag.).
Anchorage. — ^A good berth for a large ship is in 12 fathoms, with Francisco point bearing North (N. 13^ W. mag.) and the signal station 8. TOO V7. (8. 670 W. mag.).
Supplie& — Fresh provisions and vegetables can be obtained. Fresh water is brought down by rail from Oopiai)6. Either English or country coal (from $5 to $6 per ton) can always be obtained. Repairs to machinery can be effected by the Gopiap6 Railway Company.
Telegraph. — Telegraph communication exists between 8antiago, the capital of Chile and Copiapo, from which city a line extends to this port.
Hospitals. — ^At Copiap6, the chief town of the province, there are two hospitals. Vessels on their arrival are charged with a tax of 1(^ cents per ton for hospital dues, which serves for a term of one year.
Rock. — ^A rock, with 3| fathoms of water over it, lies one mile from the nearest land, with Caldera Point lighthouse bearing 8. 19<^ W. (8. 6^ W. mag.) distant ^^^^ mile&.
Cabeza de Vaca point, 11 miles north of Francisco point, is a remarkable point, and has two small hummocks near its extremity; inside of them the land is nearly level tor some distance, and then rises into several low hills, which form the extremity of a long range. Between Caldera and Cabeza de Yaca there are several small bays with rocky points between them, off all of which there are rocks at a short distance. There is no danger within ^ mile of the Cabeza. To the northward of it there is a small rocky bay named Totoralillo, off the north enlarance point of which is a small islet and a bare rock outside it, terminating in a reef; about i mile N. by W. of the reef some heavy breakers are seen whenever there is much swell.
Obispito cove. — To the northward of Totoralillo the coast is steep and reeky for 3 or*4 miles, with a high range of hills ranning close to the shore. The rocks forming the south point of Obispito cove are somewhat remarkable for their blackness, but on the south point of a small cove to the southward of it there is a white rock. And tp the northward of this the land is low and rocky, with breakers about ^ mile from the shore.
The best anchorage appears to be in the KE. corner, 400 yards off shore, in 9 fathoms, sand, the house bearing 8. 77^ E. (East mag.) or 8. m> B. (8. 780 B.,mag.).
There does not appear to be any danger in entering Obispito, but it is not a good place for loading; being quite open to the 8W., a heavy sea sets in with the ordinary coast wind, making it bad for boats, and the cargo having to be brought off in balsas through the surf, occasions
302 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORBO DE SAMA.
great delay in loading a large vessel. {Sometimes as mach as 45 tons of ore are shipped in one day, bnt the average is about 25 tons.
Obispo cove. — Northward of Obispito cove 2 miles there is a point with a small white islet off it, to the northward of which the coast trends to the eastward and forms the small cove of Obispo, in which there is a high sandhill with a stony summit. The anchorage in this cove is not fit for any vessel, and the landing is bad.
Port Flamonco. — A little inshore of ObisiM) cove, and to the north- ward, a higher range of stony hills trends close to the coast for about 7 miles, where it terminates in low rugged hills a short distance inshore of a brown rough point, off which is an islet, appearing Irom the sea like a white patch on the point. Port Flamenco, lying to the northward of this point, is sheltered from southerly winds, and also from the north- ward, as the north point projects far enough to prevent a heavy sea running in.
On the north side of the port the land is low. The north point is low and rocky, with a detached hill rising out of the lowland a little inshore, lo the northward there is another hill much like it. In the depth of the port the land is low, and a deep valley runs back between two ranges of rugged hills. The hills are all covered with yello^ir sand from their bases to about halfway up their sides; the tops are stony, with a few stunted bushes.
The landing is good in the SE. corner of the port, either on the rocks or on the beach of a small cove in the middle of a patch of rocks a little more to the northward. The port is inhabited by a few fishermen, engaged in salting conger eels.
Flamenco is connected by road with the copper and silver mines of Tres Puntas, 52 miles to the eastward. It is visited by coasters and occasionally by larger vessels for the purpose of shipping ore.
Drinkable water can be procured near the huts, and guanacos may be shot. Pumas abound.
Las Animas point, or Los Infioles, is about 10 miles north of Port Flamenco. It is low and rocky, and has a reef extending 1,000 yards from it in a "NW. direction. One mile eastward of the point is the bay of the same name, badly sheltered, but frequented by coasters.
There is anchorage in 7 fathoms in the center of the bay, } mile off shore.
The north point of the bay is a steep rock, with a round hill rising directly from the water's edge. Immediately north of this point the bay of Ghanaral de las Animas opens.
Chafiaral do las Animas bay. — The north point of this bay is low and rocky, with a high range a little inshore. To the northward of the point the hills and coast are both comx>osed of brown and red rocks, with a tew bushes on the summits of some of the hills; the sandy appearance that the hills have to the southward ceases, and the pros- pect is, if possible, still more barren.
Large quantities of copper ore are exported from OhanaraL
CHANARAL DE LAS ANIMAS BAY. 303
It is said that Ghafiaral is the worst place on the coast, but the follow- ing remarks may be of use to strangers : A short distance north of Las Animas point is a clay-colored, granite point (Bryson point), around which there is a deep cove. About J mile EKE. of this point is another point fomewhat similar, but whiter toward the extremity, named Piedra Blanca; 800 yards EI^E. of Piedra Blanca is a black rugged point named Piedra !N"egro. Halfway between these points, and at 400 yards from the shore, is the best anchorage off the loading place, in 7 fathoms, black sand.
Two rocks are reported to lie in a K. 49° W. (N. 62o W. mag.) direc- tion from Bryson point, at the respective distances of about 350 and 550 yards. The outer rock has about 14 feet over it at low water, the inner about 8 feet. Both rocks appeared to have a smooth surface and to be composed of soft granite. Vessels should not round Bryson point at a less distance than ^ mile.
A dangerous rock, with 8 feet on it at low water, lies 150 yards out- side the outermost rock above water, off Piedra Negro point. Vessels should not lie in this bay with less than 45 fathoms of cable out, as rollers frequently set in.
All over Ghanaral bay the depth is about 10 fathoms, and shoal water extends some distance to seaward. At 5 or 6 miles off the bay, with Las Animas point bearing 8. 13° W. (South mag.) and Sugarloaf North (N. 130 W. mag.), there are 38 fathoms. Vessels may, therefore, under most circumstances, stand into the bay with a certainty of finding an anchorage in easy depth, which would be better than to attempt to tow off if caught near shore by the wind dying away.
At the bottom of Ghanaral bay is a deep ravine, but without water. This ravine forms a funnel through which the wind rushes with great strength from the sea by day and from the land by night, which does not tend to improve the anchorage.
Snpplies. — Fresh provisions, including vegetables, may be obtained ; also distilled water. Fish are abundant in the bay.
English and native coal for steamers can be purchased at a little higher rate than at Valparaiso, but shipping it is slow and troublesome.
Telegraph to Galdera and Taltal.
Pan de Azucar island (Sugarloaf), 600 feet high, lies nearly 9 miles northward of Ghanaral de las Animas bay about i mile from the shore. In coming from the southward there is seen a similarly shaped hill on the main, a little to the southward of the island, for which it may be mistaken; but the island is not so high and the summit is sharper.
A bank about i mile in length, upon which are 4 or 5 rocks which show above water, extends from the island to the NW. The outer and highest is about IC feet above the sea. When coming from the south- ward this rock must be rounded in order to approach the anchorage.
Between Ghanaral de las Animas and Pan de Azucar island the coast is rocky and affords no shelter; but there is a small bay to the southward of the island, which might afford some shelter from northerly
304 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO D£ SAMA.
windSy thoagh with southerly it would be exposed, and the landiug is bad. There are two piers for loadiug goods and copper ore.
Anchorage. — When the outer rock bears N. 80<^ E. (K. 68^ E. mag.), a point of land on the main, consisting of jagged peaks 250 feet high, will be seen. This point forms the west extreme of a small bay hav- ing a clean sandy beach. Vessels anchor in this bay opx>osite the village of Pan de Azucar. The depth at the anchorage is about 11 fothoms, and vessels should not have too short a scope of cable, or they may drag to seaward during the fresh land breeze, which blows from sunrise to 9 a. m.
There is also anchorage in the middle of the passage between Pan de Azucar island and the m,ain, which is about ^ mile wide. There is 5 fathoms in the shallowest part. The water in the northern end of this passage is smooth, and a vessel might anchor off the point of the island, sheltered from southerly winds, in 6 or 7 fathoms; but outside of 8 fathoms it deepens suddenly to 13 and 20 fathoms about ^ mile from the island.
Current. — ^The current generally sets to the north at a usual rate of J knot per hour, but increases considerably with strong 8W. winds, and at times has a tendency to set toward the coast. With continued NW. winds the current is checked and sometimes runs southward.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions are scarce and dear. Only distilled water can be obtained, and it is expensive. Abundance of fish may be taken with either net or hook. English and native coal may be obtained.
Esmeralda cove. — ^This cove, which is adapted to the small vessels engaged in the coasting trade, is eastward of an island in latitude 25^ 54' S., or about 5 miles southward of Ballena point. This cove must be approached with caution, as some rocks lie in the vicinity; the island must be rounded Hb the northward, and anchorage will be found in 8 fathoms.
Ballena pointy about 19 miles north\f ard of Pan de Azucar island, has some small rocky islets off it. Between Pan de Azucar island and this point the rocky coast recedes slightly, with a range of mountains, more thim 2,000 feet high, close to the shore. At 4 miles northward of Ballena point there is a small bay named Ballenita, having Tope Blanco or White4opped islet J mile off the west point. It affords no shelter. Two or three small patches of sandy beach, on which a heavy surf breaks, appear on the rocky shore, and the hills, which come close to the water, have a rugged appearance.
Lavata bay. — Northward 7 miles from Tope Blanco islet is Lavata point, cliffy and with rooks projecting from jts base. This point shel- ters the bay of the same name from SW. winds.
Close eastward of the point is Gifiincho cove, affording good anchor age in from 8 to 9 fathoms.
At 2 miles eastward of Lavata point is Cifunoho bay. There is little information about this bay.
TORTOLA ISLETS — PORT TALTAIj. 806
Torto!^ islets.— Northward of Latata point 6 mildsili^r^ls a jydiitt whicli, till close, appears to be an island, bnt it is joined tQ thci sh^orte by a low shingle spit. Its summit is ragged, V^ith sevel*al stdep peaks from it; and several rocky Islets that lie s^^iittered off the p6iht «te named the Tortola.
Olose north of the point is a iiarrow cove where t6S8^!s load copper ore. The anchorage is in 6 fathoms.
Isla Blanca bay. — San Pedro point, nearly 3} miles northward of Tortola islets, is ragged, with a high round hummbek a little way inshore. To the eastward of this point there is a deep bay, nftkhed Isla Blanca.
The bay is rocky and does not afford good tochbrage. Several rocks lie off San Pedro point. North of it there is a reef projecting^ mile from the shore; also, another retef projects in a northerly directibii frbin the shore at about i mile farther eastwa^rd. In the bottom of the bay there are several small white islets, d>nd two or three i^mall saiidy coves, none of which are large enough to afford shelter fbr a vessel.
Taltal point, about 8J miles NE. of San Pedro poitit, is the northern boundary of Isla Bltoca bay. The point is low sixid had tl¥0 conspicu- ous knobs on it.
A reef extends about i mile in a WW. direibtiOn from the point, whidi should be given a good berth, for the current sets toward it, ahd during heavy weather breakers have been seen as far as 1,4^ yards -froin the point.
Between Taltal point and Grande point, 17 miles to the northward, the shore recedes, forming a long bay, named Nuestra S^nora bay. Grande point is reported to lie 3 miles farther west than shown on the chart.
Fort Taltal, immediately east of Taltal point, is 1 j- miles aicrbss and I mile deep. The port affords secure ahchorage, sheltered from the prevailing wind in 5 to 10 fathoms, from 400 to 600 yards off the beach in the south part abreast the town.
There is one hospital at Taltal.
There are copper foundries here, large quantitiies of that metlbl beiug exported, also jcargoes of nitrate and saltpeter. The*e are two piers for loading and unloading goods, and the landing is easy and convenient.
Supplies of all kinds can be obtained at Taltal. The port abounds with fish. Coal fbr steamers can be obtained, and repairs to d' moderate extent can be executed at the works.
During winter water may be procured from a stream that empties just southward of a point near the middle of a port, but it itsan always be obtained from the distilling apparatus.
Hneso Parada cove, 2^ miles EKE. from Taltal pointy is small, with an excellent landing place.
About 1^ miles N. by E. from Hueso Parado cove Is a iKrhtte islet^
1943— No. 89- ^20
306 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORBO DE SAMA.
and a short distance inland there is a hill of a brighter color than others near it.
OUva road is about 8 miles KNE. of Taltal point, near the center of Nqestra Seiiora bay. The roadstead is quite open and a heavy swell fetches in. Vessels load here with saltpeter.
The anchorage may be recognized by a large wooden anchor placed on a hill near the beach. This mark should be steered for, bearing S. 80O E. (N. 880 E. mag.). Vessels must moor in from 22 to 26 fathoms, as in less depth the bottom is rocky and many anchors have been lost.
An iron pier 500 feet long facilitates the loading of lighters.
Excepting beef, no supplies can be obtained. Water is troublesome to get and of indifferent quality.
Tides and currents. — ^The only' place on this part of the coast at which the time of high water was satisfactorily determined was at GuascQ, where it is high water, full and change, at dh. 30m. The rise at neap tides is 4 feet and at springs about 2 feet more. In consequence of the swell on all this coast it is difficult to get the time of high water at or near the truth. The rise everywhere appeared to be 5 or 6 feet. The tide at Guasco was carefully observed in a cove without swell, yet from the small rise the exact time of high water could not be ascer- tained, the water remaining at the same level above half an hour.
It is said by coasters that there is usually a set toward the north of about ^ mile an hour.
JUAN FERNANDEZ, MAS AFUERA, ST. AMBROSE, AND ST. FELIX
ISLANDS.
It may be convenient to the seaman to have a brief description of the islands of Juan Fernandez, Mas Afuera, St. Ambrose, and St. Felix, which belong to Chile.
Juan Fernandez island, lying about 370 miles westward of Valpa- raiso, is generally called by the Spaniards Mas a Tierra, or nearer the mainland. It is of an irregular form, about 12_ miles in length, but scarcely 4 miles across in its widest part. Its northeastern half is composed of alternate craggy ridges and fertile valleys, and mostly covered with wood, while the southern division, which is comparatively ;flat and low, is nearly barren. When seen from a distance the moun- tain El Yunque (the anvil), about 3,000 feet high, so called from its ahape, appears conspicuously placed in the midst of a range of pre- cipitous mountains. It is wooded nearly from the summit to the base, whence a fertile valley extends to the shore. There are four families residing on the island (1892).
Snpplies.-^The island is fertile. Fresh water is good and easily pro- cured; wood can be purchased; also, beef of excellent quality, pigs, poultry, and vegetables. Peaches grow wild in large quantities, and fruit can be obtained at a moderate cost. The bay affords abundance of fish. Crayfish may also be taken in large quantities.
JUAN FERNANDEZ ISLAND. 307
Cuxaberland bay is on the northern shore of the island, about 3 miles from its eastern extremity. It is sheltered from all winds but the north, which is said never to blow home with any violence. It affords safe anchorage for vessels of any size, and when approaching it from the southward a vessel may pass round either end of the island, accord- ing to circumstances; but she should not come nearer the shore than one mile, to avoid the eddy winds down the valleys. In the event of rounding the eastern end, which is the better, when off Bacalao point, Cumberland bay will open out, and also some caverns, which will be seen on the face of the first highland rising from the beach. When the western part of West bay shuts in with the western point of Cum- berland bay, deep soundings will be obtained. The next cast will probably be 25 fathoms, and there a ship may anchor on a bottom of fine dean sand, about J mile from the beach.
The marks for the best berth are a small rock, which just shows at high water, off the west point of the bay, K. 14o W. (N. 31o W. mag.), and the ruins of the fort S. S4P W. (S. 67^ W. mag.). When approach- ing the bay from the westward keep about one mile from the shore, and when the caverns are well open run in toward them and anchor as above directed.
All vessels visiting this bay should moor, placing the inshore anchor in about 16 fathoms and the off shore anchor in 35 fathoms. A vessel will then be in a good berth, with a southerly wind, and have room to veer should the wind come in from the northward. In the summer season, or from November to May, southerly winds prevail, and at times heavy gusts rush down from the valleys. The bottom being sand, a good scope of cable on the southernmost anchor is necessary. A kedge astern will serve to keep the hawse clear.
The wind- appears to blow out of Cumberland bay like a fan and in violent gusts, so that beating in is sometimes not only difficult but unsafe, and some years since a Spanish frigate was lost in attempting it.
Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, in Cumberland bay at 9h. 30m.; rise about 4 feet.
* Mas Afuera island. — The summit of Mas Afuera is about 4,000 feet high. This elevated peak is near the center of the island. Mas Afuera is about 8 miles long north and south, and 5 miles broad. The east side of the island is about 5 miles long north and south. On the SW. side there is a remarkable rock with a hole through it (Perforated rock). About 1^ miles to the northward of this rock a low point pro- iect« (Low point), having a reef, on which the sea continually breaks, extending about f mile in a westerly direction. The island appears to be otherwise free from detached dangers.
Anchorages. — ^The best anchorage (Cateret anchorage), it is consid- ered, will be found on a bank extending from the NW. side of the island, having 30 and 20 fathoms, fine black sand and shell*
308 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE 8AMA,
Las Oasas ancborage is off the center of the eastern side of Mas Afnera, and another anchorage named Sanchez is 2^ miles north of Las Oasas. Sanchez anchorage has depths from 22 to 27 fathoms at 400 or 600 yards from shore, and may be recognized by a white patch on a hill close to it. Neither of these anchorages are safe during easterly winds.
The fishermen state that there is anchorage all aroand the island except on the SE. side.
There is plenty of wood and water all aroand the island, but they are not to be procured without much difficulty. Large fragments of the rock have fallen from the highland, and upon these there breaks such a surf that a boat can not safely come within 200 yards of the shore. There is, therefore, no landing here but by swimming from the boat having moored her without the rocks, nor is there any method of getting out the wood and water but by hauling them to the boat by ropes.
€k)ats are found on the island. Fish are plentiful.
St. Ambrose and St. Felix isles lie westward from Oopiap6, distant nearly 500 miles. In former years immense herds of seal frequented their shores, but these have almost all disappeared.
St. Ambrose, 1,500 feet high, is composed entirely of volcanic scorisB, arranged in horizontal strata very marked, and intersected by vertical dikes of basalt which have the appearance of streams flowing from the summit when viewed at some distance; vegetation is scant, and the island is without water. Though frequented by sea birds, the sides are too steep and rugged for guano to collect.
Off the east end of the island is a remarkable rock, named Bass rock, 197 feet high, with small rugged rocks to the eastward of it again. There is a pinnacle also off the west end.
There is no anchorage off* the island, 20 to 30 fathoms having been obtained less than 200 yards off shore.
Landing was effected at two places on the north shore, and, with southerly winds, might also be effected in most of the coves on the north shore. The island is steep and rugged, and ascent to the summit would be both difficult and dangerous.
St. Feliz, lying 11 miles west from St. Ambrose, consists of two islands connected by a reef. The southern island is inaccessible, and about 600 feet high. The West and SW. sides of the northern island are steep cliffs, slewing down to beaches on the NE. side. There is a landing place just to the eastward of the KW. bluff*. About IJ miles N. 64° W. (N. 790 W.mag.) from the north point is a remarkably formed islet 170 feet high, which from its form has been named Peterborough cathedral.
THE MAINLAND.
Nuestra Senora bay. — The coast from Taltal point trends to the northward round !N"uestra Senora bay to Grande point, a distance of 17 miles. This point rising to 1,572 feet above the sea, when seen -from the SW. appears rounded, terminating in a low, rugged ridge, with
PAPOaO ROAD — COLORADA COVE. 309
several hummocks on it, and surrounded by rocks and breakers to the distance of ^CtQ yards.
Paposo road.^— At 9^ miles north of Grande point lies Bincon point, having off it a large white rock, and between these points, in latitude 259 2< B., is the village and roadstead of Paposo. It is a poor place, immediately east of £kuanillo point, and containing about 450 inhabit- ants. The hats are scattered, and difficult to distinguish, from their being the same color as the hills behind them. Yessels touch here oocasionally fdr dried fish and copper ore.
A vessel bound for Paposo should steer for Grande point, so as not to be set to the northward of the roads. Guanillo point is a low white head, and the best anchorage for large vessels is about 600 yards west of it in 20 to 22 fathoms, fine sand. Small vessels and steamers may anchor nearer the point in 15 fathoms.
The anchorage is quite exposed, and subject to a heavy swell that breaks all along the shore excepting in the little bay at the landing place in the south corner of the road.
Fresh beef may be had occasionally, but no other supples. Water can be brought &((»n a distance, but is difficult to ship on account of the heavy surf;- it can also be obtained from the village of Junquillar^ about 2 miles north of Paposo.
Caution. — The plan of Paposo road should be used with caution, as the ground i mile north of Guauillo point is foul nearly 600 yards off shore.
El Paposo, shown on charts in latitude 25^ 46' S., longitude 70° 43' 20" W., should not be confused with this port. El Paposo is only a watering place, and derives its name from the silver mines in the vicinity,
Rmcon point is the north point of Paposo road, and consists of t^ree low points backed by high mountains. A little more than one mile SW. by W. of the point is a white-colored islet surrounded by other rockS) and named Kincou rocks. The passage between the rocks and the shore is clear and deep, but the current sets strongly to NjSTW.
Plata point, 23 miles N. by W. of Grande point, is similar to it, and terminates in a low spit, off which lie several small rocks, forming a bay on the northern side, with from 17 to 7 fathoms water j rocky, uneven. ground. From this point to Jara head the coast trends in a direct line 52 miles, and has a steep, rocky shore, surmounted with hills from 2,000 to 2,500 feet high, and numerous intervening points, affording shelter for the trading launches of the coast.
Colorada cove, 3^ miles north of Plata point, is about 150 yards in extent, and affords good anchorage for sniall vessels in 3 fathoms, sandy bottom, in the center of the cove. Large vessels can anchor in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, about 400 or 600 yards N. by E. of the cove, but only partially protected from the SW. swell.
Bnitre rock. — ISesarly one mile to the northward of Oolorada cove is
310 . COQUIMBO BAY TO MOERO DE SAliA.
Buitre point, about i mile to the northward of which lies Bnitre rock, with one fathom on its shoalest part; it is steep-to. Midway between the rock and the mainland there are 10 to 12 fathoms rocky bottom. The sea breaks heavily on Baitre rock.
Dos Reyes (Miguel Diaz) point, 10 miles north of Plata point, is low and has a dip in the middle, where there is a spring of good water.
Botqa cove. — Immediately north of Dos Eeyes point is a small bay, in the south part of which is Botija cove. It offers no shelter, and land- ing is not practicable. There is water in the cove, but it is brackish.
Blanco Encalada road, formerly named Kemienda cove, is about 17 miles to the northward of Buitre point. It is protected from the southward by a peninsula, nearly circular in shape, i mile in diameter, 30 feet high, and connected with the coast by a sandy isthmus about 3 feet above high water and 200 yards long. Bocks above water extend 250 yards in a northerly direction from the north side of the peninsula, having near their extremity a rock with 2 feet water, on which the sea frequently breaks. Kelp extends about 200 yards from the eastern shore of the cove.
The best anchorage is in 8 or 9 fathoms, fine sand, with the extremity of the rocks extending from the peninsula, bearing 8. 76^ W. (S. 65° W. mag.), distant about 400 yards, the depths decreasing gradually to the SB. part of the cove.
At the head of the cove there is a good landing place on the sandy beach.
Blanco Encalada would be an important place for loading coppef and saltpeter, which abound in the neighboring districts, but neither wood nor water can be obtained.
El Cobre bay, 29 miles north of Plata point, is a place of export for copper. The anchorage is partly sheltered from southerly winds by Moreno point, the SW. point of the cove, having a reef extending about 200 yards northward of it.
Large vessels may anchor in 16 fathoms 600 yards north of the house, but small craft lie closer, in 7 fathoms. There is a convenient landing pier, and also a distilling apparatus.
Approaching El Cobre bay, a zigzag road on the hill immediately over the port is a good mark. Two miles north of the port are two white- topped islets, and just north of them is a large black point, with a patch of brown sand to the northward of it. The sandy point forming the port is also unlike any point near it.
Agua Salada cove, in latitude 24P IV S., about 4 miles to the north- ward of El Cobre bay, may be recognized from seaward by a large yellow patch on the side of the mountain northward of the cove.
Anchorage may be obtained in the cove in 12 fathoms, sand and stone, but landing is difficult.
Agua Dulce cove, 4 miles to the northward of Agua Salada cove, affords but indifferent shelter, with deep water, and a bottom of stone, sand, and shell. The mountains rise abruptly from the rocky shore to
JARA HEAD ANTOFAGASTA. ^ 311
a height of 2,000 feet, having on the north side of the cove a detached peak about 3,000 feet high, named Agua Dulce.
The best anchorage is in 19 to 20 fathoms, with the southern white rock a little open of the coast. Small vessels may anchor in 13 fathoms nearer the shore. Landing is difficult.
Landmark. — A white beacon is erected on a rock 65 feet high, on the shore, in latitude 23° 58' 12'' S. This mark was formerly the bound- ary between Chile and Bolivia, but is now merely a landmark.
Jara head is a steep rock with a rounded summit 700 feet high. On its northern side there is a snug cove for small craft. This place is visited occasionally by sealing vessels, which leave their boats to seal in the vicinity j water is left with them, and for fuel kelp is used.
Bolfin cove, 1^ miles E. by K. of Jara head, affords anchorage for several large vessels in moderate depths, sheltered from SW. winds. Landing is good at all times.
No supplies whatever can be obtained.
Coloso cove, in latitude 23^ 47' S., longitude 70° 30' W., affords anchorage in 10 fathoms about 400 yards from shore, near the middle of the cove.
Moreno bay commences nearly 4 miles N. by E. J B. of Jara head,- the intermediate land being high and rocky, with a black rock lying off it. At 22 miles ISWW. from the head is the SW. point of Moreno peninsula, sloping gradually from the summit of mount Moreno and terminating in two nipples at Tetas point.
Mount Moreno, 4,161 feet high, is a conspicuous object on this part of the coast. Its summit is inclined on its southern side, but to the northward ending abruptly over the barren plain from which it rises.' It is of a light-brown (moreno) color, without the slightest sign of vegetation, and is split by a deep ravine on its western side.
Antofagasta road, in Moreno bay, is a place for export of nitrate and silver ore.
Antofagasta is connected by railway with the mines at Salinas, and by telegraph with the northern and southern porta.
From recent observations and telegraphic measurements, the obser- vation spot near the railroad station at Antofagasta may be considered to be in latitude 23o 38' 39.3" S., longitude 70o 24' 39" W.
The United States is represented by a vice-consul.
Supplies. — The only fresh water to be obtained is condensed. Pro^sions, excepting fresh beef, are scarce and dear, being brought from the southern ports. Coal can generally be obtained. Eepairs to machinery can be effected by the railway company.
Lights. — ^A fixed white light is exhibited from the small tower of the customhouse, at an elevation of 30 feet, visible in clear weather from a distance of 3 miles.
A short distance south of the town the electric lights at the works are conspicuous.
Paita rock is the outermost of the rocks off the town. A red buoy.
3X2 GOQUIM30 fiAT TO MOEBO D£ SAMA.
4
witb. tbe word i^t; ia large wbit^ letter^, i&. moored in, .9 iathoms a short distance west of tb«i rock. Yqssi^ mast pajaa west^ward of the buoy,
Aadiorage,— tA lai^e wJute anchor has been painted on the ridge at the back of the town, which, brought to bear S. 76Q ]@> (S. 87^ E. mag.)) wlllleP'dto the best aQcborage, about 1,200 yards &.om the shore, in ftom }5 to 2Q.^thQias.. The holding ground is not good rand is fiill of lost aqfiliors and pajtil^:
The anchorage for xnen-of-war is with the white anchor bearing about S, 79P £• (Sa^jt mag.) and the customhouse tower @. 51^ £. (S. 6^? E. mag.). Merehfmt vessels are berthed by the harbor authorities and are. moored with two anchors to the SW, and one astern. They, are loaded and di^arged by means of lighters.
TMa anchorage is nnshelt^ed jaud ^e^posed to the heavy SW. swell almost invariably experienced on this part of the coast, the swell being more severely felt at the full and change of the.moon,'aud'also more frequently in the mouths of May, June, and July.
Wiadii.— The wind is nearly always from. seaward during the day, with calm nights, and land winds in the morning. The latter winds are uncertain, but at times they blow with great violence. Keitber the swellinor the wind,however, have been experienced of sufficient strength to cause ani^iety respecting the safety of vessels at anchor.
IMriiGltipii8.t— Antofagasjta should be approached with great caution on account of the detached rocks off the porL The reefs extend 600; yards from the shore, forming an inner harbor or. cove running WW. and SiB,,, about 600 yards longr in which small vessels load and dis- charge^' This cove^ name^d La Poza, is 70 yards wide at the entrance, in which a depth of from 9 ito 18 feet wqj^ found. A red buoy is moored in the channel in 18 feet water, and vessels must pass south of it.
The channel is. at times impassable in consequence of the heavy swell which rolls over the reefs and breaks completely across, and boats should at all times use caution. Strangers should on no account attempt to enter the cove at nighty as serious accidents attended with loss of life hdive already occurred. The rocks obstructing the. channel have been blastedyiand there is not less than 3 feet over them at low water.
Ohimba bay. — About 5 miles northward of Antofagasta is the small islet named Guaman, 23 feet high, and eastward of it is Chimba bi^.
The cove affords shelter to small; craft in from 7 to 8 fathoms. The pasisage between Guaman islet and the mainland is shallow and rocky. Ko supplies or. fresh water can be obtained.
Jorge bay. — From Gfaimba bay the coast trends !N^W. into Jorge bay, cli% as far as. the !NE. part of the bay, then sandy. Two miles northward of Guaman islet are a group of rocks named Loberia, and at 1^ miles fiArther northward a reef named La Portada extends from the shore. There. is a landing place in tha 'SW. corner of the bay, under the lee of a sandy spit, and about one mile north of the spit is a salt lagoon abounding with fiish.
ABTAO COVE — CON8TITUCION HABBOB. 313
Abtao cove. — The SE. extreme of Moreno peninsula ia Jorge point, and immediately NE. of the point is Abtao cove. This cove is l,30.ft yards wide by 500 yards deep, and, opening to the eastward, is Well sheltered at all timiBS, with no swell; it is inhabited by fishermen only.
The depths in the cove decrease from 22 fathoms in the entrance to 5 fathoms near the shore, sand and shell bottom. The best anchorage is in 12 fathoms in the center, about 400 yards off shore.
Mount Moreno.^— Water. — Mount Moreno, 4,161 feet high, is the most remarkable feature of this part of the coast.
About the middle of the coast south of mount Moreno ia Eoca Blanca, and f mile N. 34P W. (N. 45° W. mag.) of it on the coast is a spring of excellent fresh water named "Moreno." The spot may be recognized by the ruins of a atone house near it. The spring, whi:ch affords a supply of about 600 gallons daily, was formerly the supply of Antofa- gasta and Mejillones del Sur, and boats may be laden during fine weather, especially in the morning.
Tetas point, the SW. extreme of Moreno peninsula, has two hills on its extremity, is rocky and barren, but free from outlying dangers. The current ia slack between this point and Abtao cove.
Barrancas cove has fair anchorage for coasters, but larger vessels must anchor in 27 fethoms, about i mile from Tetas point. This cove is a favorite fishing ground, and there is tolerable landing.
Errazuriz cove, 3 miles north of Tetas point, is a mile in extent and fairly sheltered. The anchorage is from 6 to 8 fathoms, and there ia good landing in the aouth part of the cove.
Constitucion harbor is situated immediately under mount Moreno, about 5 miles north of Tetas point. It is a small but snug anchorage, formed by the mainland on one side and by Constitucion island on the other. Here a vessel might haul in to the land and careen without being exposed to the heavy rolling swell which sets into most of the ports on this coast. The landing is excellent, and the beat anchorage is oft* a sandy spit at the !NE. end of the island in 6 fathoms water, muddy bottom, but it would be advisable to moor securely, as the land breeze, called "paracas,'' is sometimes strong, especially at night. Farther out the holding ground is bad.
When running in, the island or weather side should not b^ hugged too closely, as a number of sunken rocks lie off the low cliffy points, some only being buoyed by kelp. A mid-channel course would be the best, provided the wind allows a vessel to reach the anchorage before men- tioned. Neither wood nor water is to be found in this neighborhood, therefore provision must be made accordingly.
Tides. — It ia high water, full and change, at Gonatitucion harbor at lOh.; aprings rise 4 feet.
Lagartos bank. — At 4 miles north of Gonatitucion ialand ia Lagartoa point, off which lies a rocky bank of the aame name. On this bank stands Lagartos island, nearly ^ mile long, 200 yards across, and 16 to 19 feet high. It is composed of rock covered with shell of white
314 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE SAMA.
appearance, and is visible from a distance of 5 miles. Bocks extend some distance both NW. and southward of this island.
At 850 yards N. 28o W. (1^. 39o W. mag.) from the KE3. extreme of Lagartos island is a rock always dry, having shoal water between it and the island, where the sea constantly breaks. The boilers of the wrecked steamer Lima lie upon this reef and are always above water.
Esmeralda rock is the name applied to a sunken rocky shelf, lying 1,400 yards southward of Lagartos island. This shelf is about 400 yards in diameter, connected with the shore, and marked by kelp and breakers. As this danger extends farther seaward than Lagartos island, a wide berth must be given when coasting in this neighborhood.
Bandurria cove, a small cove frequented by coasters, is 2 miles north of Lagartos point. At 3 miles SE. by E. of the cove is mount Bandurria, 1,630 feet high.
Monro Joxjino, at 12 miles north from Gonstitucion island, is a steep bluff, which terminates the range of table-land joining mount Moreno. On the northern side of this headland and extending to the SE. is the cove named Herradura de Mejillones, affording no shelter.
Korth, 9 miles from morro Jorjino, is Baja or Low point, surrounded with sunken rocks, and 5 miles farther !NE. is Leading bluff, a remarkable headland, which, with mount Mejillones, a few miles to the south, is an excellent guide for the port of Oobija. The bluff, about 1,000 feet high, faces the north, and being entirely covered with guano, has the appearance of a chalky cliff. There is an islet named Blanco, about J mile to the KW. of the bluff, connected with it by a reef.
Abtao rock, | mile N. 20^ W. (N. 31° W. mag.) from Blanco islet and nearly 2 miles west of Angamos point, has 8 feet on it. Two other rocks lie between Abtao rock and the islet, a little to the north, and NW. of the isolated rock above water, which lies to the northward of Blanco islet.
Mount Mejillones has the appearance of a cone with the top cut off, and stands conspicuously above the surrounding heights. In clear weather this is undoubtedly the better of the two marks, but as the tops of the hills on this coast are frequently covered with heavy clouds. Leading bluff is a surer nlark, as it can not be mistaken, for besides its chalky appearance it is the northern extremity of the peninsula, and to the eastward of it the land suddenly falls back.
Important discoveries of guano were made in 1862 around the base of mount Mejillones.
Mejillones del Sur bay. — To the eastward of Angamos point is the spacious bay of Mejillones del Sur, Vessels bound into the bay should give Abtao rock a wide berth, as it does not show by breakers.
The anchorage is in 10 fathoms, about 700 yards N. 23° E. (H. 12© E. mag.) of the landing pier of the town of San Luciano; closer in the water shoals rapidly, and is bad holding ground. Heavy squalls come off the highland of Mejillones.
CHACAYA POINT — COBIJA BAY. 315
About 3 miles S. 11^ B. (S. 22^ E. raag.) pf Angamos point are some piers, connected by rail with the guano beds. Here the vessels load- ing guano anchor in from 8 to 12 fathoms, but the water deepens very suddenly.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions can always be obtained, being imported by the coast steamers. Water is obtained from the condensers. Fish are plentiful.
The town is connected with Arica to the north, and also with the southern ports, by telegraph.
Chacaya point is the first rocky coast F£. of Mejillones del Sur bay; it is free from outlying danger.
Gualagnala point is northward of Ghacaya point 13 miles. The coast between is high, and the shore steep and clean. Some rocks extend a short distance from Tames point.
Gualaguala cove is ]^E. of the point. There is sheltered anchor- age in 10 fathoms, sand, good holding ground, at about 100. yards from the shore.
There is a small settlement having a wooden mole for loading the copper ore of the district. Supplies are scarce; water is not good, and is limited in quantity.
Michilla point and cove.— The point is NNE. of Gualaguala. It is a little salient, with rocks and islets around it. The cove is just NE. of the point. It is 2 miles wide and about i mile deep, with anchorage in 12 fathoms, sand.
Tames point is one of the prominent points in this neighborhood. Korth of Michilla point 2^ miles is Huaqne point, low, and projecting a little, with a detached small black island 300 yards off the point. From Tames point to Huaqne point there are no landings.
Tames cove is immediately to the NE. of the point. The cove is open and small, with anchorage in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, 600 yards offshore. There is a pier in the cove and a small building. Tames ravine, where there is a spring of fresh water, is east of the cove. The mineral is reported as being nearly exhausted.
False or Guasilla point is 5 miles N. by W. of Tames point. It is marked by two islets lying J mile off the coast.
Cob^a bay is just east of Gobija point. It is also called Puerto la Mar. The exports consist of copper, tin, guano, and wool.
Directions. — On the slope of Gobija point there is a white stone which shows very plainly in relief against the black rocks in the back- ground. The national flag is usually hoisted on the flagstaff at Gobija point. In going in there is no danger; the point is steep-to, and may be rounded at 200 yards distant. It is, however, by no means an easy place to make; the hills rise directly from the coast, and form an almost unbroken ridge 2,000 to 3,000 feet high, having no sufQciently marked feature to point out the position of the town at their base. The white church with two towers, in the center of the town^ is an excellent
316 COQUIMBO BAY TO MORRO DE SAMA.
mark. The best way is to make the coast some miles north or south (if iu a sailing ship, south) of the port, and run down close in till the houses are seen. If coming from the southward, after having passed Leading blufi* (which should alyrays be made), it would be advisable to shape a course so as to close the land about 9 miles to the southward of the port, and then coast along until two white-topped islets off False point are seen. At 1^ miles to the ndtthward of them is the port.
Anchorage. — ^The best anchorage is with Oobija point bearing S. 690 W. (S. 480 W. mag.) in about 9 fathoms, sand, from 200 to 400 yards off the town. Mail and coasting steamers belonging to the Pacific Steam Navigation Company call here.
Landing is effected at the pier, but when there is a heavy swell it requires great care, for the sea rolls over a ledge of rocks on the NB. side of it.
Supplies. — Good water is scarce, as rain never falls. An occasicmal rill (caused by condensed fog) runs down a ravine to the northward of the town. The water generally in use is distilled, of which there is a constant supply. There are wells, but the water from them is brack- ish, and will not keep in casks. Fresh meat, fruit, and vegetables can always be procured.
Tides. — It* is high water, full and change, at Oobija bay at 9b. 54m. ; springs rise 4 feet.
Gatico cove, also known as Copper cove, lies 3^ miles northward of Oobija. It is 3 miles across from Oatico point on the south and Grande point on the north, and is a convenient place for taking in ore, there being anchorage a short distance from the shore. The mole is fitted with a steam crane for shipping the copper ore, which is placed in bags on balsas, and conveyed to boats moored near the shore. In this way 60 tons per day can easily be put on board.
The cove is easy of access. There is good anchorage in 13 fathoms 500 yards N. lOo W. (N. 21© W. mag.) of the mole. Kearer than this, or more to the southward, the bottom is rock. No supplies can be obtained.
Durections. — ^There are no good marks for making &atico cove, the hills being constantly covered with mist halfway from summit to base. The white church at Oobija is, however, a conspicuous object, and in clear weather will be a good guide. If bound here from Oobija, stand along the coast, about 800 yards distant, until the pier opens, then round Rocky point at 300 yards distant, or as convenient, and anchor as above.
If bound from the northward, after making Oobija church steer for it on a S. 23° E. (S. 34P E. mag.) bearing, until the ranches on the south side of Gatico cove are visible, then bring the northernmost detached rancho on with the pier head, 8. 69^ E. (S. 70° E. mag.), and stand in, anchoring as before. The ranches and pier will not be seen until within 3 or 4 miles of the land.
Caution. — A heavy swell sets into this cove, and, with the constant
GRANDE POINT — ^AGUA DULCE POINT. 317
light SW. ^nds and calms, renders it difiBctilt for heavily laden sailing vessels to get out. They should never attempt it without the aid of boats to tow, for before they could claw off the land under sail alone the swell wduld probably set them ashore.
Grande point is somewhat rocky and crowned with flat-topped hills. It fihonld not be approached within one mile.
San Pedro cove, immediately to leeward of Grande point, offers some accommodations, but 220 yards !N^W. of its pier is a submerged rock. No supplies can be obtained.
Banduirria point — ^The point, about 3 miles north of Grande point, is rocky and foul. On a line joining the two points and a little south of Bandurria is a detached dangerous rock.
To the south of the point is Ohinos cove, which has a good landing place.
Ghianillo coTOi also named Guanillo del Sur, affbrds good anchorage in 7 fathoms, sand and broken shell, 400 yards KW. from the pier. The mining establishment and smelting furnaces are near the shore, and the metals are conveyed over a tramway along an excellent pier to a chute, under which boats can lie with perfect safety at all times. A large distilling apparatus supplies water to the establishment and the persons engaged in the mines. At 400 yards N. 21° W. (N. 32^ W. mag.) of the pier is a rock which dries at low water.
Ampa point is 3 J miles north of Bandurria point. It is low and rocky and projects about i mile. It should not be approached within one mile.
Between Gnanillo and this point the coast is very foul, with scattered breakers for nearly J mile from shore.
Ampa gnlly, in which is found veins of copper, lies- east of the point. Half a mile to the northward of the point is a small landing place called La Gaviota.
Copaca point and cove. — ^The point is about 8^ miles to the north- ward of Grande, and is low, rocky, and foul; it is somewhat prominent with knolls at Its extremity. A little to the northward of the point is the cove, which has a good landing place on a beach of sand and shell.
The cove abounds in fish, and water may be obtained in the vicinity.
A little over one mile to the southward of the point are two good landing places — Higuera and Copaca Vieja cove.
Alala point and cove. — The point is 2^ miles to the northward of Copaca point, and forms the western extremity of a chain of hills terminating in knolls, the most notable being conical, about 325 feet high. The point is remarkable when running up or down the coast. Outside the point are breakers, and the coast is foul to Copaca point.
To the southward and eastward of the point are two white islets.
Alala c6ve opens immediately to the NB. of the point. The landing place is on a sandy beach, and is good. On the shore are wells of excellent water.
Agua Dtilce point, 2^ miles northward of Alala, is the extremity
318 GOQUIMBO BAT TO MOBBO DE SAMA.
of a chain of hills. It is of medium height and cliffy* To the KE/of the point is Tk good watering place.
Blanca point is 4 miles north of Agaa Dalce. On the north side of the point is Blanca cove, an indifferent anchorage, in which vessels occasionally load with copper ore.
Algodonales bay, about 4 miles north of Blanca point, is sheltered from the southward by Algodonales point, and may be recognized from seaward by a gully leading down to it and by two paps on the heights to the northward of the gnlly of Mamilla, which is about 7 miles to the northward of the bay. Algodonales point and the rocks in the vicin- ity are white with guano. When approaching from the southward the smoke of the smelting works will be seen apparently seaward of the land, the point not appearing until afterwards. About a mile south of the point there is a broad, light stratum on a spur 1,500 feet high.
There are three places in this bay from whence ores are shipped — Bellavista, Tocopilla, and Duendes, and around are valuable mines in all directions.
Tocopilla, which stands in the southern angle of the bay, is a place of some importance. The principal mines and the smelting furnaces belong to an English company, who have erected a pier, along which is a tramway, to facilitate the embarkation of metals and to convey coal and merchandise to their establishment. There is telegraphic commu- nication with the other principal ports of the Eepublic and a railway to Toco.
Fresh meat and vegetables in moderate quantities can be had at a moderate price; and though there is a spring of good water at the gully of Mamilla, 7 miles to the northward and IJ miles from the beach, that generally used is distilled, three large distilling apparatus supplying the wants of the place. The coasting steamers belonging to the Pacific Steam Navigation Company call here weekly. Coal can be obtained.
Landing is at times difficult, but can generally be effected at the railway pier.
Loch Breadon or Tocopilla rock has a depth over it of 14^ feet of water, with from 29 to 36 feet around. It is a pinnacle rock, forming the extremity of a rocky ridge separating from the shore, and is about 262 yards from land, exactly on a line passing through the cemetery and the north side of Algodonales point.
Duendes is in the northern part of Algodonales bay, about 1^ miles northward of Tocopilla. The smelting establishnents at this place were destroyed by an earthquake in 1878. Nitrate is shipped here, being brought from the mines, 54 miles inland. A mole is run out into 12 feet at low water, and although a heavy swell sets in at full and change of the moon, and occasionally at other times, the landing and discharging of cargoes can generally be effected.
There are two dangerous rocks in the anchorage — ^the Duendes, with 16 feet water, which lies N. 56^ W. (N. 67° W. mag.) J mile from the pier,
CAPE PAQUICA LOA RIVER. 319
and the Nightingale, with 6 feet. The latter is marked by a large buoy, on which a flag will be hoisted when a vesselis entering the port. The pier is sheltered by a large white rock, off the extremity of which is a smaller one just awash.
Cape Faquica or San Francisco is a projecting headland about 11 miles north of Algodonales point, having on its north side a large bed of guano. The. anchorage north of the point, 200 yards off shore, is not good ; there is generally a high swell, and a heavy surf breaks on the rocks. There is better anchorage farther NE., but it is not suitable for vessels loading guano. The guano is placed in bags, and run down a slip into launches moored outside the surf. Landing is difi&cult, and frequently dangerous.
Arenas point, low and sandy, with a rocky outline, is 16 miles north of cape Paquica. Between it and cape Paquica is a small fishing vil- lage near a remarkable hummock. Anchorage may be obtained under Arenas point in 10 fathoms, fine sandy bottom.
Lautaro point is 5J miles KNB. of Arenas point. The coast between affords no landing except about a mile south of Lautaro point, where there is Colipi landing at the foot and to the north of a high mount. Lautaro point, a rugged mount, is 230 feet high, with a white summit. The point is clear of danger.
Lautaro cove, KE. of Lautaro point, is 500 yards wide and 250 yards deep. Anchorage, sandy bottom, may be had in 12J fathoms 500 yards north of the point. The landing place is a sandy beach, and recom- mended for its quietness. There are no inhabitants in the locality, and both provisions and water are scarce.
Loa river. — The gully and river of Loa, 12 miles north of Arenas point, were formerly the boundary line between Bolivia and Peru. Loa is the principal river on this part of the coast, but its water is extremely bad, in consequence of running through a bed of saltpeter, as well as from the surrounding hills containing copper ore. A chapel on the north bank, J mile from the sea, is the only remains of a once populous village. At Ghacansi, in the interior, the water is tolerably good. In the summer season the river is about 15 feet broad and a foot deep, and runs with considerable strength to within J mile of the sea, where it spreads, and flows over or filters through the beach, but does not make a channel or throw up any banks.
The best distinguishing mark for the Loa is the gully through which it runs, and that may easily be known from its being in the deepest part of the bay formed by Arenas point on the south and Lobos point on the north, as well as from the hills on the south side being nearly level, while those on the north are much higher and irregular. There is good anchorage, but rather exposed to the sea breeze, with the chapel bearing N. 11° B. (North mag.) i mile from the shore, in from 8 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom. Landing may be effected under Ghileno point, 3 miles to the south ward»
820 COQUIMBO BAT TO MOBRO D£ SAMA.
Chipana bay, — At 5 J miles S^NW. from Loa river is False Ohipana point, the west extreme 6f Chipana bay. NE. of the point there is fair sknchorage in 6 to 9 fathoms, and a good landing place close under the point; but at full and change of the moon a heavy swell sets in, and a boat would scarcely be able to land with goods at those times.
After making the land in the latitude of the Loa, a large, white double pateh may be seen on the side of a hill near the beach, and a similar one a little to the northward. On discovering these marks (whieh are visible 6 to 12 miles), a course should be shaped directly for False Chipana point. No danger need be feared in entering, for, though the land is low, it may be approached within J mile in from 10 to 6 fathoms. This anchorage is better than that at Loa.
The anchorage eastward of the long kelp-covered reef which extends 800 yards to the northwestward of the north point of the bay might perhaps be preferred, but the landing is not so good there.
Guanillo point, 7 miles to the northward of Chipana bay, has a considerable quantity of guano on and near it, from which the name of the point is derived. Guanillo is the second point north of the low promontory forming Chipana bay, and may be recognized at a distance of 20 miles by a conspicuous broad white patch facing the sea. The point is steep-to, and with a commanding breeze may be rounded by a sailing vessel at the distance of i mile.
Guanillo del Norte cove. — ^The anchorage is just north of Guanillo point, in 14 to 16 fathoms, rocky bottom, J mile from the shore. As heavy rollers set into the cove occasionally, a nearer berth is not recommended.
Vessels bound into the cove should endeavor to make the land to the southward of the point.
The landing place is at the north angle of the point, but it is bad in consequence of some rocks on the beach in the vicinity.
Coast. — Eocks and breakers extend a considerable distance from the coast between Guanillo point and Cbomacbe point. This coast should be given a wide berth.
Chomache point has a long reef extending one mile oft' it, and on the reef a cluster of rocks shows a few feet above water, the outer end being marked by breakers. Yessels should not approach this part of the coast too closely.
In a bight north of Chomache point, where there are some guano patches, vessels may anchor near the land in from 9 to 13 fathoms.
Lobos or Blanca point is bold, and may be known by the two white Pajaros islets, 20 feet high, IJ miles south of the point, and ^ mile from the shore, and by the bell- shaped peak of mount Carrasco 9 miles to the northward of the point. Pajaros islets and Lobos point are steep-to, and may be passed at a convenient distance^ soundings will not be obtained until near the anchorage.
There is a very large deposit of guano here, which is overlaid by a strata of limestone, the stone having to be first cut away to obtain it.
i
by
it.
LOBOS POINT — PATILLOS PORT. 321
Lobos Point anchorage. — About f mile north of Lobos point are some rocks a few feet above water, and midway between these rocks and Lobos point there is anchorage in 18 or 20 fathoms, rocky bottom, i mile from the shore. In this berth Pajaros islets will be shut in by Lobos point. This anchorage is considered better than that of Guanillo, but is not so capacious. Small vessels load at a berth close to the rocks NE. of the point, anchoring in from 9 to 13 fathoms. Landing is com- paratively good on the point. There is no water here; the few inhab- itants send to Loa river, whence the water is brought by balsas.
Fabellon de Pica, directly under Carrasco peak, is 1,043 feet high, covered with guano, and may be known by its remarkable bell-tent shaped appearance and strong contrast with the barren, sunburnt brown of the surrounding hills. A cove one mile across is formed by Pabellon de Pica and a hill, 50 feet high, to the northward, also covered with guano. East, a little southerly, a few miles inshore, is the bell- shaped mountain named Carrasco, 5,492 feet high.
The only landing place is on a smooth sandy beach, sheltered by 4 small islets and several rocks, i mile north of the hill, 50 feet high, where lighters may go in, be moored in safety, and load easily.
Anchorage. — ^There is anchorage in the cove formed by Pabellon de Pica and the hill, 50 feet high, in 12 and 18 fathoms rock with patches of sand and shell, but it is advisable not to anchor in less than 14 fathoms on account of the heavy rollers that occasionally set into the bay.
There is also anchorage in 14 fathoms, J mile S. 78o W. (S. 67° W. mag.) of the landing place, where several vessels may ride.
Chanabaya is a small cove, a little northward of Pabellon de Pica. The mines here were destroyed by the earthquake of 1877.
Patache point. — ^At 14 miles N. by W. from Lobos point is the low, rugged, projecting point of Patache, having an islet J mile off it. There is anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms close inshore in Patache cove to the northward of it.
Heights of Oyarvide.— From Patache point to Gruesa point, at 28 miles farther north, the coast is low and rocky, which is the termination of a long range of table-land, named the heights of Oyarvide, or the Barrancas (ravines), from its cliffy appearance. It has numerous rocks and shoals off it and should not be approached within 3 miles, for the frequent calms and heavy swell peculiar to this coast render it unsafe for nearer approach. Inland of these heights, 28 miles to the northward of mount Carrasco, is mount Oyarvide, 6,800 feet high.
Patillos islets and port — A few hundred yards off shore, 5 miles northward of Patache point, are three small white islets that can be seen from a great distance. To leeward of the islets is the port, with anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms, 600 yards off shore, from whence saltpeter is shipped* There is a pier for loading goods, and a good landing place.
1943— If 0. 89 21
322 COQUIMBO BAY TO MOBKO DE SAMA.
Tapes islets and cove. — At 2^ miles northward of Patillos islets is Yapes point, and a short distance from it lie a gronp of islets. North- ward of and near the point is Yapes cove, which, though small, affords anchorage in from 9 to 10 fathoms, 400 yards to leeward of the islets, and from it frequent shipments of saltpeter are made.
Vessels entering the cove should keep nearer the islets to avoid a reef extending 600 yards from the north shore.
Caramucho cove is an exposed anchorage with bad holding ground.
Chucumata cove, 11 miles north of Patillos, affords anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms, slightly sheltered from the southward.
Ligate cove is merely an indentation in the coast, offering no shelter.
Gruesa point, also called Larga point, at the NW. extreme of the
headland of Tarapac4, is low but cliffy, with three white patches on its
northern side. NE. of the point are three dark-colored rocks above
water, at 1,200 yards off shore. Foul ground extends seaward from the
point, and the pilots warn sailing vessels not to approach it within 3
miles. From Gruesa point northward the coast forms Ghiquinata bay, in
which are seen three sand hills, forming a valuable landmark.
Los Jemelos rocks are two sunken rocks lying 1^ miles K. 59^ W. (N. 70O W. mag.) of Gruesa point. The SW. rock has a depth of 16 feet over it.
Molle cove, at 6 miles north of Gruesa point, may be recognized by a zigzag road leading down the heights toward its head^ anchorage may be obtained near the shore in 9 to 10 fathoms, l^o vessels visit this port to load nitrate, and the wharves are falling into decay. Land- ing is often inconvenient on account of the heavy swell. Ko supplies of any description can be obtained.
Miami rock is a cluster of sunken rocks, Mdth 16 feet over it, marked by kelp, and upon which breakers are occasionally seen. It lies 200 yards N. 31o W. (N. 42o W. mag.) from the SW. point of Molle cove.
Playa Larga. — Between the NW. point of Molle cove and Gabancha point the coast is a low sandy beach named Playa Larga, interrupted by a rocky patch about J mile wide. Farther inland there is a ridge of yellow sand, the summit of which is 886 feet high.
Cabancha point and cove. — Gabancha point is low and rocky. The cove to the north of the point offers some shelter from SW. winds, and has several landing places.
Iquique island, 10^ miles K. by £. of Gruesa point, at the south part of Iquique road, has a passage inside only fit for small craft or boats. The island is surrounded by rocks extending about 200 yards, and on the west side 600 yards from the shore.
A pinnacle rock, which dries 2 feet at low water, lies 300 yards N. 28^ W. (N. 390 W. mag.) from the east extreme of Iquique island.
Lights. — A cylindrical lighthouse, 72 feet high, painted white, stands near the center of the island, and exhibits, at the elevation of 95 feet.
IQUIQUE. 323
a fixed and flashing light showing a flash every thirty seconds. The light is visible in clear weather 18 miles.
A red electric light, visible in clear weather from a distance of 6 miles, is shown from the extremity of the railway pier, and a green light from the extremity of each of the three piers eastward of Iquique island.
Iquique road may be recognized from seaward by a dome- shaped moanta*in, about 3,000 feet high, situated a little to the southward of the anchorage. This mountain, which can be seen from a distance of 20 or 30 miles, has, just under and a short distance to the northward of it, a zigzag road, which can be seen at a distance of 12 miles. Ves- sels bound to Iquique should make the land well to windward, as the wind generally fails on nearing the anchorage.
Approaching from the northward, the bend of the line of railway upon the mountain is conspicuous; also, a sand hill with a sharp peak, south of the town.
Directions. — Vessels bound for Iquique should run in on the parallel of Gruesa point, until the white patches on that point are discerned, but the coast should not be approached under 3 miles, when a course should be shaped for the northern of three large sand hills. Stand boldly in on this course until the church steeple (the cemetery dome at the back of the town is the most conspicuous mark for making the port) appears, when, or shortly after, the town will be seen, and Iquique island, under which is the anchorage. Care must be taken in rounding Iquique island to give it a good berth. Vessels have attempted the crooked passage between the island and the mainland and thereby got into danger, from which they were extricated with some diflBculty.
Wrecks. — The wreck of the Esmeralda lies in 17 fathoms, with Piedras point N. 7^ W. (E. 18o W. mag.) and liTegra point S. 71^ E. (S. 820 E. mag.).
The wreck of an iron* vessel lies in 12 fathoms, with Iquique light- house bearing S. 44o W. (S. 33o W. mag.) and Kegra point N. 67^ B. (N. 560 E. mag.).
A bark lies sunk, with the wharf lighthouse bearing S. 75^ E. (S. 86° E. mag.), distant 950 yards.
Buoy. — A conical buoy, painted black and white in horizontal stripes, is moored over the bow of the wreck.
Monro point is well marked by a tall iron chimney, painted red. Breakers extend 200 yards from this point in heavy weather.
Anchorage. — The anchorage is good in 8 fathoms, with Piedras point bearing North (N. 11° W. mag.), the outer point of Iquique island S. 67° W. (S. 56o W. mag.), and the church steeple S. 3© E. (S. 140 E. mag.). The best anchorage for vessels of war is in 13 fathoms, with the lighthouse bearing S. 22° W. (S. 11^ W. mag.).
Tides. — It is high water, fuU and change, at 8h. 45m. ; springs rise 6 feet.
Bravezas.— This name is given to the remarkable agitation of the
324 COQUIMBO BAT TO MOBBO DE SAMA.
sea, which frequently takes place at Iquique during the months May to August; landing is then difficult, as also at spring tides. An un- usually heavy swell, which lasted two and one-half hours and caused considerable damage to piers, etc., occurred on September 21, 1885.
Hurricane. — On September 17, 1891, a hurricane raged, causing great damage to the shipping; during the last half, hour it was accompanied by rain. Such an occurrence had been previously unknown in Iquique.
Landing. — The best landing place for the town is at the custom- house mole. There is also a good landing place on Colorado beach^ near the southern extremity.
In bad weather the best landing is to the northward of Morro point. The channel is then dangerous, and boats should pp»ss westward of the island and enter Southwest channel.
Pilots. — An experienced pilot will meet vessels, if necessary, berth them, and also conduct them out of the port.
Supplies. — There is neither vegetation nor drinkable water naturally produced; but owing to the active trade all kinds of provisions are to be obtained, though at high prices. Abundance of coal for steamers can be purchased at a reasonable rate, and is supplied to vessels by means of lighters. There are two foundries where repairs of an unim- portant nature can be made to machinery. The water is obtained from Arica; the water steamer calls three times a week. There are also several water condensers.
Communication. — ^There is a railway irom Iquique to Fisagua; also to Noria, the principal saltpeter works in the neighborhood, and a tele- graph line to Callao and Valparaiso.
Two lines of steamers call at Iquique, viz, the Pacific Steam Navi- gation Company's mail steamers and the vessels of the South American Steamship Company. There is a hospital, where seamen of all nations are treated gratuitously.
ConsiiL — A consul and vice consul represent the United States.
Fiedras point is 912 feet high. The rocky heights in the rear of the point attain 2,300 feet. Eocks and breakers extend more than 600 yards seaward of the point.
Colorada point and cove. — About 11^ miles northward of Piedras point, and to the leeward of Colorada point, is an unsheltered cove with from 9 to 13 fathoms, whence saltpeter is shipped. Cololue islets are two in number, covered with a thin layer of guano. They lie some hundreds of yards off Colorada point. .
Union rocks are stated to lie about one mile N. 32° W. (N. 43^ W. mag.) of Cololue islets.
Buena cove, at the foot of a bluff about 19 miles north of Iquique, is exposed, but iree from danger, arid has good holding ground.
The railroad and large buildings at the top of the bluff are good landmarks, and vessels calling to load nitrate may stand boldly in to
MEJILLGNES DEL NORTE COVE — ^JUNIN COVE. 325
>;rithin one mile of the beach. A swell usually sets .in. There is a land- ing pier for small boats, but caution is necessary. No supplies can be obtained. The anchorage is good in from 8 to 10 fathoms about 400 yards from the pier.
The cove is now the loading place for nitrate of soda in place of Mejillones del Norte cove, which place has been deserted. The loading pier is 250 feet long, and the nitrate is taken in lighters from the end of it. Surf seldom delays loading.
Light. — ^A fixed red light is shown from the customhouse. It is visible about 3 miles.
Mejillones del Norte cove is 21 miles north of Piedras point. It is i mile in extent, and may be known by the gorge of Aurora, a little to the southward. Peninsula island, forming the south horn of the cove, has white patches on it, and there are white rocks lying 700 yards to the SW. of it.
The warehouses here have been closed, and the people have moved to Buena cove, where the nitrate is now shipped. The place is siDall and without resources.
Directions. — Entering the cove, give the north point of Peninsula island a berth of at least 200 yards, in 9 to 11 fathoms, to avoid two sunken rocks, the outer one of which, with 9 feet on it, lies about 130 yards North (X. 11^ W. mag.) from the point. It will be prudent to have an anchor ready when working in. On account of the swell and in consequence of the current and calms it is often necessary to use boats for towing to the anchorage.
Anchorage. — ^A good berth is in 10 to 12 fathoms, to leeward of an islet in front of the huts. The anchorage is somewhat confined, there being only room for three or lour latge vessels to lie without mooring head and stem.
Junin cove, about 10 miles northward of Mejillones cove, is recog- nized by a conspicuous mountain road leading up to the mines. It has no protection from the swell, and is very inconvenient to load or dis- charge cargo at. The anchorage is in 18 to 26 fathoms, sand, with the customhouse bearing about S. TO^E. (East mag.) and the turn of tbe road above mentioned about N. 11° E. (North mag.). Vessels should always moor head and stern to ride to the constant swell from the southward.
Junin possesses a large establishment for the export of saltpeter. Water for drinking purposes must be obtained from condensers.
Huaina Pisagua bay. — At 6 miles NW. from Junin cove is Pichalo point, a projecting ridge, 2 miles long, at right angles to the general trend of the coast, with a number of hummocks on it. Bound to the northward of this point is the bay and village of Huaina Pisagua, which is connected with Iquique in the saltpeter trade, and resorted to by vessels for that article. When rounding Pichalo point a neces- sary precaution is to shorten sail to topsails should the wind be ever so light outside, as sudden gusts are frequent. A sunken rock lies
326 COQUIMBO BAT TO MORRO DE SAMA.
about 100 yards off Pichalo point, aud should be looked out for, as it is necessary to hug the land closely, in order to insure fetching the anchorage off the village, for baffling winds are frequent, and may throw the vessel near the shore. The water is smooth and the shore steep-to.
A railway connects the port with the works at Sal de Obispo, also with Iquique. Goal can be had in small quantities. Fresh provisions and water are expensive.
Anchorage. — Pisagua point, the north extreme of Huaina Pisagua bay, bears from Pichalo point, its south extreme, N. 33^ E. (N, 22o B. mag.), distant 2^ miles, the shore between receding 1^ miles.
The bay is surrounded by high land and is exposed to frequent heavy gusts from SE. through South to SSW. ; vessels should, therefore, use good ground tackle, to prevent dragging off the bank, which is steep-to. The general anchoring ground is from 9 to 15 fathoms. A good berth is with the^^extreme of Pisagua point N. 5^ E. (K 6^ W. mag.), 400 yards off the village, in 10 fathoms, by which a sunken rock of 4 feet water lying near the shore will be avoided. The rock is marked by an iron staff. There is a mooring buoy laid about 600 yards north of the houses.
Pisagua bay is northward of the point of the same name. There is anchorage in from 6 to 10 fathoms, but very close to the shore, off the village. Pisagua river makes a conspicuous break in the shore, north of Pisagua point. During nine months of the year no water is found in its bed. Though a scanty supply may always be had from the wells dug near it, yet no vessel should trust to renewing her stock at this place, for, besides its unwbolesomeness, the difficulty and expense attending its embarkation would 'be great.
Gorda point is 18 miles north of Pichalo point, and has some rocks always visible, extending about one mile from it. To the eastward the land rises very high. Camarones gorge is 7 miles north of the point.
The coast from Pisagua bay to Gorda point, at 15 miles farther north, consists of low, broken cliffs, with a few scattered rocks off it, and ranges of high hills near. Gorda point has some rocks always visible, extending about one mile from it. To the eastward the land rises 2,520 feet.
From Gorda point northward there is a long, line of cliffs, with only two breaks (quebradas) as far north as Arica. These breaks in the cliffs, or gullies, as they are called by the sailors, are remarkable, and very useful in making Arica from the southward. The first is Cama- rones gorge, 7 miles north of Gorda point, about a mile in width, lying at right angles to the coast, with a stream of water running down it and a quantity of brushwood on its banks. It forms a slight sandy bay, but not sufficient to shelter a vessel from the heavy swell. Yitor gorge, 29 miles north of Camarones and 15 south of Arica, is about f mile in breadth, and having a high, bold point namAl cape Lobos jutting out to the southwest ward J has a tolerably good anchorage for small vessels
ARicA. • 327
off it. This gorge traverses the country in a similar manner to that of Gamarones, and has likewise a small stream passing through, with verdure on its banks.
Arica road. — ^Vessels bound to Arica should endeavor to makeVitor gorge, and when within 9 or 10 miles of it Arica head, 600 feet high, will be seen, and appears as a steep white bluff, with a round hill inshore named monte Gordo, 880 feet high. (Jpon a nearer approach the low island of Alacran will be observed, joined to Arica head by a reef of rocks. To the northward of this island is the roadstead, one of the best anchorages on the coast, although the frequent heavy swell renders a stern kedge advisable. There is no danger in entering; the island may be rounded at 100 yards length in 7 or 8 fathoms.
If a ship be overtaken by darkness or a calm when nearing Arica, it would be advisable, if in soundings, to anchor with a kedge. Should this precaution be neglected the ship will be found to leeward of the port next morning, and probably be unable to make it during the day.
Anchorage. — The best anchorage is in from 8 to 9 fathoms, ^ mile N. 330 E. (N. 220 E. mag.) of Alacran island, and it is recommended not to bring the western summit of Alacran island to the westward of S. 390 W. (8. 280 W. mag.), nor to anchor south of the telegraph buoy or coal hulk.
The submarine telegraph cable is laid through the anchorage and is marked by two red buoys. Vessels must anchor clear off the cable.
There are two mooring buoys just within the 4- fathom line of sound- ings abreast English jetty, and one abreast the customhouse jetty. South and east of these buoys the ground is foul, and from April to October the Sea breaks across from Alacran island to the customhouse wharf. South of the island the sea breaks continually.
The wreck of the arinor-plated vessel Manco Capac lies in 7 fathoms, about 1,100 yards NNE. of the town and 650 yards from the nearest shore. The least water over the wreck is 6 fathoms, and vessels should avoid anchoring near it.
In June, July, and August the rollers are so heavy at times as to stop all traffic in the port.
Landing. — ^Boats land at the extremity of the wharf.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Arica at 8h. 5 springs rise 3J feet.
Arica was formerly a flourishing town, but has been destroyed by successive earthquakes. It is now a place of considerable importance, and has a population of about 4,000. The principal commerce consists in the importation of foreign goods for Bolivia and the exportation of soda, tin, wool, hides, and metals. The city of Tacna is the capital of Moquehua, to which the port of Arica also belongs. They are con- nected by a railroad 45 miles long, affording daily communication, the journey occupying about two hours and a half. There is also tele- graphic communication between Arica and Tacna. On a clear day Tacna can be plainly seen from the sea, though more than 20 miles off,
328 . COQUIMBO BAT TO MORRO DE SAMA.
the valley rising gradually to it. To the eastward also rise some of the highest peaks of the Andes. Indeed, few scenes can vie in magnificence with the view on a clear day from between the morro de Sama and Arica, where the coast, being low and the country sweeping back in one unbroken ascent to the stupendous snowy masses of the Andes, displays the endless variety of their outlines and the grandeur of their vast pro- portions to great advantage; even the volcano of Arequipa, more than 90 miles off, is often seen.
The United States is represented by a vice-consul.
Position. — The church spire (Iglesia matrix) is considered to be in latitude 18o 28' 43" S., longitude 70o 20' W.
Supplies. — At Arica fresh provisions and vegetables, with all kinds of tropical fruit, may be had, but are usually dear; the water is good, and may be obtained from the small jetty erected by the water company, whose works are close to the railway terminus. Coal may be procured at times, but this is quite uncertain.
Climate. — Fever and ague are said to be prevalent in the hot sum- mer months. This in all probability arises from the bad situation which has been chosen for the town, the high head to the southward excluding the benefit of the refreshing sea breeze, which generally sets in about noon. There is one hospital at Arica.
Arica to southern ports. — From Arica, the coast being nearly north and south, vessels bound to the southward should make an offing of not more than 45 to 60 miles (so as to insure keeping the sea breeze), and work upon that meridian till in the parallel of the place to which they are bound. But on no account is it advisable to make a long stretch off; for as the limit of the trade wind is approached it gradually hauls to the eastward, and great difficulty will be found in even fetching the port from which they started.
The coast — Arica is situated in the depth of the bight, on the west side of the continent of South America, from whence the coast, which has preserved a general direction N. 8° E. (N. 3^ W. mag.) from the western entrance of Magellan strait, takes a sudden turn to the north- westward. For 20 miles, as far as the Juan Diaz river, is a low sandy beach with regular soundings. It then gradually becomes more rocky, and increases in height till it reaches the morro de Sama, where it attains the elevation of 2,500 feet. This is the highest and most con- spicuous land near the sea about this part of the coast, and at a dis- tance appears, from its boldness, to project beyond the neighboring coast line.
Off Juan Diaz heights, 28 miles NW. by W. from Arica, the sound- ings are regular. At 2 or 3 miles off shore the depths are from 14 to 27 fathoms, mud.
Azapa valley, seen at the head of and beyond the town of Arica, rises gradually into the interior. The river which flows through it is scantily supplied with water, but the valley, nevertheless, poduces an abundance of excellent fruit, its olives being particularl renowned.
HOBRO DE SAMA. 329
Chacayuta valley joins that of Azapa and extends north of Arica with a very notable ascent. Toward the interior the lofty and perpet- ually snow-covered mountains of Tacora are seen.
The coast hereabouts is sandy and low. The sea always breaks upon it very heavily, on which account there is no safe place for lying-to.
Quiaca point is a low sandy tongue, with cliffs making off to the northward, from where the tongue joins the beach.
Monro de Sama is very conspicuous on account of its elevation of 3,890 feet above the level of the sea. From its summit it descends gradually toward the sea in a convex form, and can be recognized from a great distance without mistake, as it is the highest land about this part near the sea. The rocks off the morro are very near it and visible.
Sama point is the prolongation of one of the spurs of the mountain which shoots from the morro and descends into the sea.
Sama cove. See page 334.
CHAPTER VII.
COAST OF PERU-MORRO DE SAMA TO THE GDLF OF GUAYAQUIL.
(H. O. Charts Noa. 121«, 1178, 1177.)
General Description. — Peru extends on the seacoast in a north- westerly direction 1,300 miles, with a breadth varying between 50 and 600 miles. It is divided into ten departments, with a population of about 3,000,000, consisting of descendants of the Spaniards, Indians, negroes, and mixed races.
The country is naturally divided into three regions : The first, between the Apdes and the sea; the second, composed of the table-lands of the Andes, and the third, situated to the eastward of these mountains and forming part of the valley of the Amazon.
The country between the Andes and the sea is very contracted, and is traversed by torrents. There are vast sandy plains called arenalesj which are barren and without irrigation; but if a valley is watered by even the smallest stream vegetation flourishes. Eain is almost unknown, but is replaced by fogs and dews.
The country is generally healthy, the most common maladies being bilious and inflammatory diarrhea, colic, smallpox, and hydrophobia.
Products. — Peru is rich in mineral and vegetable products. The mines of precious metals and (Quicksilver yielded considerably even before the Spanish conquest, and if the production has now dimiuished it is more especially due to the high price of labor. The mineral king- dom is represented by iron, copper, tin, coal, granite, and porphyry, to which must be added iodine, which is drawn from the mother water of saltpeter, nitrate of soda, borate of lime, and sulphate of alumina. The nitrate of soda is found between the two chains of the Cordillera around the lake of Titicaca in quantities sufficient to supply the demands of one-half the world.
The borate of lime is found in the western part, opposite the Cordil- lera of the Pampa de Tamarugal, under a bed of salt and hard earth from one to 3 feet thick, in fine siliceous sand. Like the guano, it is a monopoly of the Peruvian Government.
Labor is always largely repaid where the country is even slightly watered. In the hot region sugar, rice, tobacco, yams, olives, sweet potatoes, and cocoa nuts are produced. In the colder climate grapes, wheat, and potatoes. Corn is the principal nourishmeut of the inhabit- ants. Cotton grows well, and is hardly inferior to that of Georgia or Egypt. There are many tropical fruits and vegetables. 330
WINDS. 331
Probably the most important of all the agricultural products of Peru is the qninqaina tree, the bark of which is gathered, dried, and sent to the ports for exj^rtation.
There are a few deer, bat the animals from which hides and wool are obtained, as the llama, alpaca, gaanaco, vicuna, are numerous, as are also European animals which have become acclimated to Peru.
Guano is found on many parts of the coast, especially on the southern portions, and all the islands along the coast are more or less covered with it.
The coast is generally straight and precipitous, and is beaten, espe- cially in winter, by a heavy SW. to SSW. swell. There are but few coves in which small v<essels or boats can find shelter from the waves.
The swell is less heavy in the summer, and the communication with the shore therefore easier; 10 or 15 miles to seaward this swell is not experienced. The lines of the cliffs are sometimes broken by sand beaches of great exteut, especially to the northward, but the surf is equally violent.
Immediately back of the coast is the Cordillera of the Andes. Its proximity to the coast and its elevation change all the water courses into torrents.
The rivers are generally ftill in the summer months, and often over- flow in February and March. They fall in the winter months, and are nearly dry during August and September. As it seldom if ever rains, it is difficult to procure fresh water. None is found within a radius of 40 miles of Iquique. The wells on the shore often give brackish water; nearly all the water used is distilled, and consequently expensive.
Winds. — The prevailing winds on the shores of Peru blow from 8SB. to SW. — seldom stronger than a fresh breeze, and not often, on certain parts of the coast, more than sufficient to enable shipping to make a passage from one port to another. This is especially the case in the district between Oobija and Callao. Sometimes during the summer for three or four successive days there is not a breath of wind, the sky beautifully clear, and a nearly vertical sun. The zone between morro Ohala and the port of Iquique is most subject to them.
Land and sea breeze. — On the days that the sea breeze sets in it generally commences about 10 o'clock in the morning; light and vari- able at first, but gradually increasing till 1 or 2 o'clock in the afternoon. From that time a steady breeze prevails till near sunset, when it begins to die away, and soon after sundown all is a dead calm. About 8 or 9 o'clock in the evening light winds begin to come off the land, and con- tinue until sunrise, when it again falls calm until the sea breeze after midday. All winds from SB. to BSE. are called the terral, or land winds; those from SB. to SSW., or from seaward, the virazon, or sea breeze.
The virazon is lighter in proportion as it comes up later or as it blows more directly from seaward; it then dies out earlier. The land and sea breezes are often separated by an interval of calm.
332 COAST OP PERU.
The coast of Peru is never visited by storms or hnnicanect. The barometric variation is insignificant; there is no thunder or lightning; the rains which take place from June to Aughst are so inconsiderable that they hardly deserve the name of showers. When sailing a short distance from the coast, the sky and horizon have often an appearance so dark and threatening as to alarm those who do not know the want of significance of such signs in these latitudes ; the most violent squalls under these circumstances do not necessitate taking in the topsails or courses. When the sea breeze is only a little fresh it always scatters these dark mists.
During the winter (from April to August) light northerly winds may be expected frequently, and are generally accompanied by thick fogs or dark, lowering weather; but this seldom occurs in the summer months, although even then the tops of the hills are frequently enveloped in this mist.
Korthward of Gallao the winds are more to be depended on; the sea breeze sets in with greater regularity and more vigor than on the southern parts of the coast, and near the limit of the Peruvian terri- tory (about Paita and off cape Blanco) a double-reefed-topsail breeze is not uncommon.
Sudden gusts. — ^It is to be remarked that although these moderate winds are the general rule on the coast of Peru, yet sudden and heavy gusts often come over the high land after the sea breeze sets in; and from the smallness of the ports they are attended with some inconven- ience if precautions be not taken in duly shortening sail previous to entering them.
Weather.— The only difference between winter and summer as far as regards the winds is the frequency of light northerly airs during the former months; but in the winter the difference in climate is far greater than one would imagine in so low a latitude. In the summer the weather is delightfully fine, with the thermometer (Fahr.) seldom below 70O, and often as high as 80^, in a vessel's cabin ; but during winter the air is raw and damp, with thick fogs and a cloudy, overcast sky. Cloth clothing is then necessary for the security of health; whereas in summer the lighter one is clad the more conducive it is to comfort and health.
The devrs at night in the province of Piura (Paita), where the fogs are less dense and occasional rains are noted, are caused by the land winds which sweep along the perpetual snows of the Andes.
Earthquakes. — The coast of Peru is subject to frequent earthquakes, though some of them are light and hardly felt on shipboard; others have been fearful, especially the memorable earthquakes of October 28, 1746, and of August 13, 1868.
Tides. — The action of the tide is feeble along the whole coast, the rise and fall being at no place more than 7 feet.
Currents. — ^The waters of the South Pacific ocean form a current on
CURRENTS — PASSAGES. 333
the west coast of South America, which extends as a river of cooler water from the latitude^ of Ohiloe* to the equator, along which it sets to the westward. From its becoming more evident in the warmer latitude of Peru, it has been denominated the Peruvian current. Its westerly set is felt on the coast between Arica and Pisco, especially to the southward of the latter port. Its greatest force on the American coast is between Paita and the Galapagos, where vessels have occasionally been drifted 50 miles to the WNW. in twenty-four hours.
The general set of the current on the coast of Peru is along the shore to the northward from | to one knot, and yet occasionally it sets to the southward with equal or greater strength. The periods at which this southerly movement takes place can not be foreseen with any degree of certainty. Neither the seasons, the age of the moon, nor any of those causes to which we so freely ascribe the currents of other coasts seem to have any influence here. The oldest navigators in the coasting trade can neither predict these changes by their exi)erience nor con- nect them by the closest observation — they only know that they will suddenly take place, and endeavor to profit by them accordingly.
{Southerly sets are frequently experienced immediately preceding or during northerly winds; but this is far from being always the case, and no general rule can be found to hold. However, it appears natural that there is some connecting link between them, for at times the cur- rent is found to change, and to set to the southward after a fresh wind had for several days been blowing from that quarter. Again, no ine- qualities or irregularities in the coast line seemed to have any effect on the main body of the current, and every fresh observation 'made serves to awaken fresh curiosity, without helping to elicit the source of these singular but interesting anomalies. These irregular currents may be connected with the causes of the remarkable meeting of oceanic currents about the Galdpagos.
Passages. — With regard to making passages in sailing vessels along this coast, little difficulty is found in going to the northward. A fair offing is all that is requisite to insure any vessel making a certain port in a given number of days. But in working to the southward some degree of skill and constant attention are necessary.
Passages. — Callao to Valparaiso.— For a sailing vessel bound from Gallao to Valparaiso there is no question but that by running off* with a full sail the passage will be made in much less time than by working inshore, for she may run quite through the trade, and fall in with the westerly winds, which are always found beyond it. But for the inter- mediate ports (except Ooquimbo) the case is different, as they lie con- siderably within the trade wind, and must be attained through that medium alone. A very dull sailor might indeed do better by running * through the trade and making southing in the offing, so as to return to the northward along the coast, than by attempting to work to wind- ward against a trade wind which never varies more than a few points.
334 COAST OF PEBU.
The average passage in a well-conditioiied merchant vessel from Guayaquil to Gallao occupies from fifteen Jto twenty days, and from Callao to Valparaiso about three weeks.
Commodore E. A. Powell, H. M. S. Topaze (1867), says: "Ships mak- ing the passage from Callao to Valparaiso wUl generally have to pass through a calm belt. When they meet with it the best plan is to use steam, or they may be six or seven days rolling about before getting through it.'' The belt of calm is generally found on the edge of the trade wind between September and April as far south as latitude 31^ S., and between April and September at latitude 18° S.
In making the passage from Vancouver island to Valparaiso in November, in 1872, H. M. S. Scylla went to the parallel of 41° S. before making her easting, making a good passage of forty-six days.
For the intermediate i)orts it may be recommended to work along- shore, as above directed, as far as the island of San Gallan, from whence the coast trends more to the eastward, so that a long leg aud a short one may be made (with the land just in sight) to Arica, or to any port between it and Pisco.
When proceeding from Callao to Pisco it is recommended to stand oft* the land at night and toward it during the day until to the southward of latitude 13^, when it is advisable to keep within 4 or 5 miles of the shore down to Pisco. The currents are uncertain at the Chincha islands, but generally set to the northward about 1^ knots an hour.
(H.O. Chart No. 1218.)
Sama cove. — On the western side of morro de Sama there is a cove formed by Sama point, 45 miles from Arica, where coasting vessels occasionally anchor to unload guano for the interior, and three or four miserable looking huts, the residences of fishermen. It would be impossible to land in the cove, except on a balsa, and even then with difficulty. Should a vessel be drifted down here by baffling winds and a heavy swell, which has been the case, she should endeavor to pass the morro (as a number of rocks surround it) about a mile to the west- ward, where anchorage may be obtained in 16 fathoms.
Ite cove, about 4 miles NW. of Sama cove, is a landing place, and may be recognized by the block houses, with a road immediately behind them, perpendicular to the coast, and showing well against the dark- colored hills. A reef of rocks projecting from the north side breaks the heavy swell and shelters the passage. During the autumn and winter the heavy sea makes it unapproachable.
Korth of the rocks above mentioned, as far as Locumba river, there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, sand, or with Sama point bearing S. 34P E. (S. 450 E. mag.), and the conspicuous road N. 16° E. (K 5^ E. mag.).
Tike point. — To the NW. of Sama point 9 miles is a low, rocky point named Tike, and 3 J miles farther northward another such point named cape Picata. Both are small, with nothing remarkable about them,
Locumba river. — ^This small river, with low cliffs on each side, issues
COLES ponrr — ^yebba buena point. 335
between Sama aud Tike points. Like most of the streams on the eoast, it has not strength to make an outlet, bat is lost in the shingle beach at the foot of the cliffs. From Febrnary until June there is abundance of water, but during the remainder of the year it is nearly dry. Eeg- ular soundings, which continue as far as Coles point, may be obtained at a distance of 2 miles off shore, in from 15 to 20 fathoms.
Coles points — The shore between Sama and Coles points, 30 miles to the NW. by W., is alternately sandy beach, with low cliff', and moder- ately high table-land a short distance in the interior.
Coles point is a remarkable low, sandy spit, running out from an abrupt termination of high table-land. Near its extremity there is a cluster of small hummocks, and at a distance it appears like one island. Off the point to the SW. there is a group of rocks or islets.
This point should be carefully avoided by vessels running along the coast, as at night it is difficult to see, and if inside they may be among the foul ground to the northward of it before they can haul out.
Considering the rocky nature of the locality aud the swell which is constantly thrown upon this part of the coast, it would be extremely imprudent for a vessel to attempt to pass between Coles point and the islets off* that point.
Ho road is 5^ miles NE. by K. of Coles point. At the village and roadstead of Ilo, water is scarce and wood is brought from the interior, so that it is not on any account a suitable place for shipping.
Facocha cove. — The best anchorage in Ilo road is in 13 fathoms, about li miles to the southward of Ilo, off the village of Facocha; it may be known by the buildings along the beach and the mole.
The mole affords every facility for landing, and Pacocha is the ter- minus of a railway leading from the rich valley of Moquegua, distant 55 miles.
When steering for Ilo road the shore should not be approached nearer than one mile, as many sharp rocks and blind breakers exist; anchor- age may be taken abreast of the village of Pacocha as convenient.
English cove, 2| miles south of Pacocha cove, affords the best land- ing, but boats are forbidden that cove, to prevent the contraband trade carried on there.
Sopladera point, 5 miles north of Ilo, has some scattered rocks near it which show above water.
Chuza cove, just north of Sopladera point, is easily known by the olive groves extending close to the coast. The anchorage is in 9 or 10 fathoms, 600 yards off shore. Drinkable water can be obtained from a waterfall. Landing can be effected north of the point.
Terba Buena point and cove. — ^At 3^ miles from Sopladera point the coast projects slightly, forming Yerba Buena point. One mile farther north is a cove of the same name, which affords anchorage at about 400 yards off shore in 8 to 10 fathoms water. Landing is diffi- cult on account of the heavy surf, but can be effected at times by
338 COAST OF PERU.
beaching on the sandy shore to leeward of the point, where drinkable water may be found.
Pacay cape and cove. — ^At 22 miles NW. by IS. from Ilo is a high, rocky projection named cape Pacay. To leeward (or northward) of the cape is Pacay cove, with anchorage in 18 or 20 fathoms, rocky bottom, 800 yards off shore. Guano is landed here for agricultural purposes of the country, but the place is difficult of access on account of the breakers.
Jesus islet, 3 J miles KW. of cape Pacay and i mile from the shore, is high, free from danger, and having a slight covering of guano is easily seen.
Cocotea cove, just north of Jesus islet, affords anchorage in 8 to 13 fathoms, suitable for coasting vessels with guano tor the country, but generally a heavy sea sets in.
Cape Peje-Perro is a little promontory 3 miles !trw, by W. of Coco- tea cove. There is neither shelter nor easy landing on account of the heavy swell and constant surf on the beach.
Tambo valley. — From Ilo the coast trends to the northwestward for 37 miles, with a cliffy outline as far as the valley of Tambo, which is of considerable extent, and may be easily distinguished by its fertile appearance, contrasting strongly with the barren and desolate cliffs on either side, those to the eastward maintaining their regularity for sev- eral miles, while to the westward they are broken, and from the near approach of the hills the aspect is bolder.
Mejico point, the outer extreme of the low land of the Tambo valleyi is covered with brushwood to the water's edge, and projects consider- ably beyond the general trend of the coast, but there is no safe anchor- age; neither is it prudent to approach, as there is always a heavy swell, breaking some distance off shore.
There are from 5 to 6 fathoms at one mile, and 20 to 27 fathoms at 3 or 4 miles off Mejico point. At 2 miles southward of the point sound* ings may be obtained in 10 fathoms, muddy bottom; from that depth, in the same direction, it increases to 20 fathoms; but on each side of the bank there are 50 fathoms.
Arequipa volcano (Volcan Misti). — In clear weather the volcano of Arequipa, 20,200 feet high, can be seen at a distance of 100 miles from the coast through the Tambo valley. The mountain is of conical form and perpetually covered with snow.
Mejia cove, 7 miles NW. by W. of Mejico point, is an unsheltered anchorage in 10 fathoms 1,100 yards off shore; there is constantly a heavy surf. In Chute cove, just east of Mfjia cove, a moderate quantity of drinkable water may be obtained.
Port Mollendo, in latitude 17^ 1' S., is the port of Arequipa. It has advanced considerably in importance during late years since the con- struction of the railway connecting Arequipa with the coast. This railway crosses the Andes at an elevation of UfidO feet, and extends
MOLLENDO — ^AEEQ UIPA. 337
to Puno, on lake Titicaca. Water is brought to Mollendo from Are- quipa in iron pipes. There are telegraph and cable lines here, and thft trade has so increased that usually from two to five vessels are in port, while half a dozen steamers call weekly with freight for the interior. The houses are of wood. Population about 3,000. There is no tug.
The United States is represented by a consular agent.
Anchorage. — ^The anchorage is very rongh and landing at times is impracticable. Anchor just outsight the fleet of lighters. Steamers lie to the southward. At the anchorage there are from 20 to 25 fathoms of water, and one anchor with about 75 fathoms chain is suffi- cient. A strong stern mooring is necessary to keep the ship's head to sea. A mooring lighter will lay out or lift these moorings at a charge of about $17.60 (25 sol). There are no mooring buoys.
Toro rock breaks heavily with an ordinary sea, and the channel between the rock and. shore is not passable for boats.
Landing. — ^A whaleboat should always be used to land. Pass between Toro and Spar rocks, and land at the railway wharf where there are steps.
Supplies. — Watering is done by ship's boats irom a pipe at the wharf. Fresh beef is obtainable at 9 or 10 cents a pound. Groceries, fruit, and all kinds of vegetables are dear. Ko salt provisions. Sand ballast, the only kind procurable, is delivered on board at about 94 cents a ton.
Lighters. — ^The loading is done by lighters, and at times it is seri- ously interfered with by the heavy swell; in winter it is often entirely prevented. Steamers arriving monopolize the lighters.
Directions. — After making Tambo valley (Mejico point being low, and not readily seen), steer in toward the southerly extremity of the white patches of ashes on shore; these patches are not conspicuous southward of Mollendo.
Do not mistake the islands off Islay for the Mollendo island, which is hardly discernible, and is now joined to the mainland. Vessels have steered for the Islay islands, fallen to leeward of Mollendo, and only reached the latter port with difficulty, the wind and current being against them.
Arequipa, the second in importance of the towns of Peru, 50 miles "KE. of Mollendo, stands on the elevated plain of Quilca, at a height of 7,850 feet above the sea.
Chiguas cove is a small bight, 3 miles west of Mollendo, where coasters can anchor in fine weather.
Guerreros valley. — This Is the largest valley opening between the mountains in the interior. The railway to Arequipa passing along its side, is distinctly seen.
Islay pointy at 5 miles west of Mollendo, projects slightly toward the sea, under some whitish patches on the mountain sides; the point makes as a dark belt, and may be readily distinguished. Several high^
1943— No, 89 ^22
338 COAST OP PERU.
rocky islets are scattered about the x>oint for a short distance, one of which, named Lecky island, makes as a conspicuous round islet from seaward.
Alvizuri islets. — The three white islets lying to the northwestward of Islay point mark the entrance into Port Islay; they are of moderate height, white, and &ee from offlying dangers. Between these islets and the rocks off Islay point there is a channel 250 yards wide, with from 11 to 18 fathoms. The passage inside the islets may be used with advantage, but a sailing vessel without local knowledge should pass outside Alvizuri islets, which may be rounded at a prudent distance, as there are 23 fathoms close to the westward of them.
St Malo rock, i mile south of Islay point, or 400 yards south of the southernmost islet off it, is a rock awash, for which a lookout should be kept. The sea nearly always breaks on it, and it is therefore easily
seen. To clear St. Malo rock the westernmost islet should not be
*
brought to bear to the westward of N. 18° W. (N". 28° W. mag.) when south of the rocks off Islay point.
Islay road, formerly the port of Arequipa, is capable of containing 20 or 25 sails. The town is built on the west side of a gradually declin- iDg hill, sloping toward the anchorage, but since the building of the railway from Port MoUendo to Arequipa this place is almost deserted*
Islay road is a better anchorage than Port Mollendo, and were the railway carried to the former it is probable the trade would revive. In 1888 Islay was reported as no longer inhabited.
Landing. — The swell is sometimes so heavy as to make landing diffi- cult even at the pier. Formerly none but active men in a well-managed boat could land during the prevalence of these rollers, which are gen- erally bad about full and change of the moon^ especially during the equinoxes.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Islay bay at 8h. 50m. j springs rise 7 feet.
Directions. — ^Vessels bound to Islay from the southward should make the land abreast of Tambo, beiug conspicuous, and which may be seen from a distance of 9 to 12 miles. The course should then be shaped toward a gap in the mountain to the westward. Through this gap lies the road to Arequipa, which winds along the foot of the hill from Islay.
As the coast is approached the foot of the hills will be seen to be covered with white ashes, not found on any other part of the coast. This peculiarity commences a little to the westward of Tambo and continues as far as Oornejo point. When within 10 miles of Islay point Alvizuri islets will be plainly seen, and should be steered for.
These islets are the best marks for making Islay. Those to the northward oft' Cornejo point, however, are similar when first seen, but the dark bay to the northward of that point and the road to Arequipa, which shows plainly when approaching Islay, will be a sufficient guide
ISLAY DIRECTIONS. 339
to distingaish them. There is also a rather remarkable bell-topped mountain (mount Islay, 3.340 feet high) to the NE. of the town, which is useful in making the port when the fog hangs on the lowland.
Sailing vessels have frequently been in sight to the westward of the port, yet from the set of the current, i knot, and at full and change often as much as one knot to the westward, they have been prevented from anchoring for several days.
Care must be taken in closing Islay i)oint to avoid St. Malo rock.
It is the custom to go to the westward of Alvizuri islets, but with a commanding breeze, after a first visit, it would be better to run between them and the next islets, which enables a vessel to choose her berth at once, for the wind heads on, passing the outer island, and obliges a ves- sel to bring up and use warps, or endangers her being thrown by the swell too near the main shore.
The mark to run inside Alvizuri islets is Brennan point and Flat Eock point in line bearing N. 30^ E. (N. 20^ E. mag.). Pass close to Flat rock, or the vessel will get off the bank, and anchor directly the town is well open in 20 fathoms, with Flat rock bearing South (S. 10^ E. mag.) and Brennan point K 65^ E. (N. 45° E. mag.).
Vessels from the eastward should observe the same directions, allow- ing for the KW. current of one mile an hour.
Islay from the "westward.-i-Run in on the parallel of 17o 5', which will lead about 3 miles to the southward of Islay point, and if the longitude can not be trusted, Oornejo point, being the most remarkable land, and easily seen from that parallel, should be recognized in pass- ing. If the weather be clear the valley of Quilca will be seen, which is the first green spot west of Tambo. Cornejo point, however, must be searched for, and when abreast of it Islay point will be seen topping to the eastward like two islands off a sloping point. The bell-topped mountain before mentioned will also be visible if favorable weather, and shortly after the town will appear like black spots in strong relief against the white ground, when a course may be shaped for the anchor- age as before.
Anchorage. — The best anchorage is just within Flat Rock point, off the landing place, in 10 or 12 fathoms. A hawser is necessary to keep the bow to the swell, to prevent rolling heavily, even in the most sheltered part.
Moorings for steamers are laid down in 30 fathoms, shell, with the landing place bearing S. 74° E. (S. 84° E. mag.), and the west end of the largest Alvizuri island S. 50° W. (S. 40o W. mag.).
La Fuente islet. — On the NE. side of the pier there is a lofty islet named La Fuente, which separates the port of Islay from Matarani cove.
Matarani cove is at the foot of a gully formed by this part of the coast, and has a small, sandy beach in front of it. This cove is the best anchorage in the bay, but it is not suitable for vessels which have to discharge at the pier^ on account of the great distance from the
340 COAST OF PEBU.
same. It is from 11 to 15 fathoms deep very near the land. The land- ing is at the foot of a hill which leads toward the place. In the middle of the cove is seen a small pointed rock named Burt rock, abont 10 feet high.
Coast — Between Port Islay and Oornejo point, 14 miles farther N W., the coast is an irregular, black cliff, 50 to 200 feet high, bounded by scattered rocks to the distance of 200 yards. About 3 or 4 miles NW. of Islay is Mollendito cove, the residence of a few fishermen. There is a similar cove named Santa Ana a little to the eastward of Cornejo point.
Cornejo point is about 200 feet high, and has the appearance of a fort of two tiers of guns, and is of a reddish color, sometimes appear- ing white. The coast to the westward of the point is dark, and forms a bay; to the eastward there are low black cliffs, with ashes on the top, extending halfway up the hills.
Off the western extreme of Oornejo point there are three small rocks, upon which the sea always breaks, and they should' be given a good berth. A rock with 13 feet of water on it lies one mile S. 22o W. (S. 120 W. mag.) of the point.
Nonato gully, one mile northward of Oornejo point, is fronted by a cove of the same name, ^ mile long, from 80 to 130 yards wide, and which affords good anchorage for small vessels.
Between 400 and 600 yards from the entrance of !N"onato cove is a rock, with 5 J fathoms water, and 10 to 20 fathoms close-to. It lies on the following bearings, namely, Oornejo point, S. 15^ E. (S. 25° B. mag.), and a bluff head in the cove on the south side S. 63° E. (S. 73^ E. mag.). There is reason to suppose that there is very little water on this rock, and great caution should be used when in the vicinity.
Guata cove, 3 miles north of Cornejo point, affords anchorage for small craft. At the head of the cove there is a well of brackish water.
Aranta cove, 3 miles KW. of Guata cove, may be known by a small white islet to the southward of it. The bottom is stony in 19 to 21 fathoms, 300 yards off shore. There is frequently a heavy swell, and no shelter at any time for a large vessel.
Quilca valley. — At 12 miles NW. of Oornejo point is the valley and river of Quilca, off which vessels occasionally anchor. This anchorage is much exposed, and the bank steep. A red buoy is laid down to indicate the best anchorage for steamers.
Watering is sometimes attempted by filling at the river and rafting off, but it must always be attended with diflSculty and danger.
The valley is about | mile in breadth, and differing from the others, which are level, has a rapid descent. The village of Quilca is on the west cliff of the valley, about J mile inland, and has a chapel or church, but it is not readily distinguished.
Quilca cove is not easily recognized. Its west entrance is a dark red cliff, about 200 feet high, with a flagstaff on it. A depth of 22^
PANO POINT — ^ATICO POINT. 341
fathoms was obtained about 300 yards S. 6° W, (S. 6° E. mag.) from the red cliff. Landing is good in the cove, and anchorage may be obtained, for coasters only, in 6 fathoms.
Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, at Quilca river at 8h.; springs rise 6 feet.
Pano point is about 9 miles WKW. of Quilca cove. All the inter- vening coast is very bold.
Monte Fuerte, 6 miles NW. of Pano point, is near the seaj and resembles the curtain of a fort when seen from outside. It is a remark- able point, and easily distinguished.
Camcuia valley. — ^The coast between Quilca and Gamana valley, 17 miles to the westward, is nearly straight, with alternate sandy beach and low broken cliff, the termination of the barren hills immediately above. The valley is from 2 to 3 miles broad, and apparently well cul- tivated. The village stands about one mile from the beach, but, being small and surrounded with thick brushwood, is scarcely perceptible from seaward. On approaching from the eastward uionte Fuerte, will be seen near the sea. This is an excellent guide till the valley becomes open.
Gamana valley produces quantities of olives, in which there is a large trade, as also with olive oil, with the interior and ports on the coast. The water of the river is good throughout the year.
Anchorage. — There is anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, about one mile south, or in from 7 to 11 fathoms 1^ miles off shore in front of the village, with monte Fuerte bearing Korth (K. 10 ^Wl mag.) ; but landing would be dangerous at all times for ship's boats.
Ocoila valley, the next remarkable place, 23 miles westward of Gam- ana valley, is smaller and less conspicuous than the latter, but.similar in other respects, with a constant supply of good water. An islet lies at the southern extremity and several rocks near the end of the cliff, on its eastern side. There is no safe anchorage nor convenient landing; but ships have ridden temporarily in 19 fathoms, sand, 2 miles S. 22^ W. (S. 120 W. mag.) of the middle of the valley.
Fescadores^^oint, 11^ miles westward of Ocona valley, is a project- ing bluff; it has a cove on its eastern side surrounded by islets. North- ward of the point there is a cove having good shelter, with anchorage in from 6 to 11 fathoms. Gfhe point may be recognized from the south- ward by four dark cliffs from 600 to 1,000 feet high, the westernmost being the highest and the easternmost the lowest; the point is com- paratively low, and extends from the second cliff from the eastward. About 3 miles to the westward of Pescadores point is a large tract of sandy ground, which contrasts with the cliffs in the vicinity.
Flora rock, which dries 1^ feet at low water, lies with Pescadpres point bearing N. 19? E. (N. 9^ E. mag.), distant one mile; no bottom was obtained with 40 fathoms midway between the rock and the point.
Atico point. — ^The coast from Pescadores Doint trends about WNW.
342 COAST OP PERU.
for 26 miles to Atico point, a rugged peninsula^ with a number of irreg- ular hillocks on it, and barely connected with the coast by a sandy isthmus. At a distance the point appears like an island.
Atico road. — There is a tolerable anchorage on the western side of Atico point in 19 or 20 fathoms at Atico road, and excellent landing in a snug cove at the inner end of the peninsula. By keeping 200 yards off shore no danger need be feared in running into this road. The valley of Atico lies 4J miles to the eastward, where there are about thirty houses, scattered among trees which grow to the height of some 20 feet.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Atico road at 8h. 53m.; springs rise 5 feet.
Chala point. — From Atico point the coast (low and broken cliff, with hills immediately above) continues its northwesterly direction 9 miles to Loboso point, which is a little projecting, with black rocks forming its western termination. About 8 miles farther on is Capa point. The coast then forms a curve toward Ohala point, 49 miles distant from Atico point. In the interval are several sandy coves, but none service- able for shipping. Chala point, high and rocky, is the termination of the morro Chala. This mountain shows prominently, the highest part attaining an elevation of 3,740 feet; on the east side there is a valley, separating it from another but lower mountain, with two remarkable paps, and on the west it slopes suddenly to a sandy plain. The nearest range of hills to the northward is considerably inshore, making morro Chala still more conspicuous.
Saguas cove. — At 30 miles ^W. from Atico point is the small cove of Saguas. Anchorage is found in 8 to 15 fathoms 600 yards off shore. There is no shelter from the heavy SW. swell, which makes landing frequently impossible. The bed of a dried torrent is seen in the ravine extending from the valley.
Port Chala. — At 12 miles eastward of Chala point is a small cove with 15 to 20 fathoms, protected by some offlying rocks, where the Pacific Steam Navigation Company have established a port of call for their steamers, but it is a difficult place even for a boat to land. The wharf was destroyed some years since, and it is not known whether it is rebuilt. Ko vessel should go within the rocks, as the heavy rollers will sometimes come in without warning, and then it is all broken water.
Port Chala is the nearest port to the city of Cuzco. Of recent years business has been opened up with the interior. There are several good veins of copper in this vicinity, some of which have been worked. The place is destitute of all necessaries; even water is difficult to obtain.
Unsafe cove is merely a slight indentation of the coast, about 3 miles to the northward and westward of Port Chala.
Faqu^a point. — At 18 miles NW. by W. of Chala point is Paquija point, which appears like a rock on the beach. Between these points there is a sandy beach with little green hillocks and sand hills, and two
TANACA COVE — PORT SAN JUAN. 343
rivulets running from the valleys of Atiquipa and Lomas. These val- leys are seen at a considerable distance. Half mile west of Paquija point is a small white islet and a cluster of rocks.
Tanaca cove. — From Ghala point the coast trends NW. 7 miles to a small cove, having depths of 7 to 8 fathoms, at 700 to 800 yards off shore. It is entirely without shelter, the beach is covered with rocks, the sea breaks heavily, and the holding ground is bad.
Atiquipa valley is 3^ miles to northward and westward of Tanaca cove. Through it iiows the river of the same name between planta- tions until close to the sea. The beach in front of the valley is low and sandy. There is no safe anchorage nor good landing for boats, owing to the heavy surf.
Ocopa cove is small. The bottom is rocky in 7 to 9 fathoms ^ mile from the beach. The country appears cultivated, but the place is with- out shelter; the heavy swell makes landing dangerous, and is therefore not suitable for shipping.
Lomas or Chavina valley, 6 miles ISTW. by W. of .Atiquipa valley, is wide, covered with vegetation, and bounded north and south by high mountains. A rivulet flows through the valley, but there is neither anchorage nor safe landing.
Lomas point — From Paquija point to Lomas point a sandy beach continues 10 miles, with regular soundings in from 20 to 22 fathoms at 2 miles from the shore. The point projects at right angles to the general trend of the coast, with rocks a short distance off it, and, like Atico point, is nearly an island. Although low, it may easily be distinguished from the adjacent coast by its marked difference in color, being a bla^ek rock.
Lomas road. — On the west side of Lomas point is Lomas road, the port of Acari, which affords a good anchorage in from 5 to 15 fathoms, and there is tolerable landing. A few fishermen reside here, and it is used as a bathing place by the inhabitants of Acari, which, from the information obtained, is a populous town 27 miles inland. All supplies, even water, are brought here by those who visit it. The fishermen have a well of brackish water, scarcely fit to use. Boats occasionally call here for otters, which are plentiful at particular seasons.
A heavy SW. swell and strong gusts are frequent in the road. It will therefore be prudent to enter under topsails, to let go a good anchor, and run a long scope of chain.
Lobos or Sombrero point. — ^This is a small point 7 miles north- westward of Lomas road. It is formed by high hills projecting into the sea, off which are various rocks at a short distance; the sea breaks upon them all.
Penotes point, 13 miles ISIV. by W. of Lomas point, has a chain of rocks extending one mile seaward just eastward of it. The outer rock just covers, but the inner ones are about 40 feet high.
Port San Juan. — ^At 23 miles N W. by W. of Lomas point is a good
344 COAST OP PEBU.
harbor, indeed mncli better than any other on the SW. coast of Pera^ and might be an excellent place to ran for if in distress. It also offers a fit place for a vessel to undergo any repairs or to heave down in case of necessity, without being inconvenienced by the swell; but all materials must be brought, as well as wood and water, none being found there. The shore is composed of irregular broken cliffs, and the head of the bay is a sandy plain. The port may be recognized by the morro de Acari, a remarkable sugarloaf hill, 1,660 feet high, rising very steeply from the cliff on the north side of the bay. Korth of it there is a small peak not quite so high. Yery lofby mountains lie to the north, as well as in the interior.
Directioxi bluS — ^At 9 miles to the southeastward of Port San Juan, a short distance from the coast, a high bluff head forms the termination of a range of table land, which is called Direction bluff, 1,000 feet high. Between this bluff and the port the land is low and level, with few exceptions, and has a number of rocks lying off it to the distance of i mile.
San Juan point is the southern point of Port San Juan. Its most projecting part, about f mile farther south, is named Steep point on the charts. About one mile east of San Juan point, and near the southern shore of the port, stand two hummocks with a very large base but of little height, the one farthest from shore being the larger, about 340 feet high, aud named Needle hummock. When northward or southward of these hummocks they are apt to be taken for islets, as the side where they connect is very low. Off' Steep point lies a small black rock, always visible, with a reef of rocks extending J mile to the northwestward; nearly If miles to the SB. lies Coutt islet, which also shows distinctly.
Directions. — A passage may exist between the reef above described and Steep point, but prudence would forbid its being attempted. The sure plan is to pass to the southward of the reef, giving it a berth of 200 yards, and not close the shore until well within San Juan point, off which lies a sunken rock. Then haul to the wind and work up to the anchorage at the head of the bay, and come-to in any depth &om 5 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom. In working up, the northern shore may be approached boldly, as it is steep-to, and has no outlying dangers.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port San Juan at 5h. 10m.; springs rise 3 feet.
Fort San Nicolas, 8 miles KW. of Port San Juan, is quite as com- modious and free from danger as Port San Juan, but the landing is not so good. San I^icolas (Harmless) point, the south horn of the port, sepa- rating it from Port San Juan, may be rounded at J mile. There is a small islet off its western extremity and there are a number of scat- tered rocks to the southward of it, but they all are visible. There are no permanent inhabitants. Steamers visit the port to ship cotton, cochi- neal, and other products of the neighborhood.
CAPE NAC^ — ^DONA MARIA POINT. 345
Anchorage. — The usual berth is in from 6 to 15 fathoms, on the southern side of the bay, near the shore, where boats may be beached in safety with care.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port San Kicolas at 5h: 15m.; springs rise 3 feet.
Cape Nazca. — At 8J miles NW. of St. Nicolas point is Beware point, high and cliffy, with a number of small rocks and blind breakers in its immediate vicinity. From thence the coast is alternately cliffs and small sandy bays, for 14 miles in the same direction, to cape Kazca. The cape, 1,020 feet high, may be readily distinguished, having a bluff head of a dark-brown color, with two sharp-topped hummocks, moder- ately high, at its foot.
Changuillo river flows into the sea 3^ miles SE. of cape Kazca, where some fields are in cultivation. There is no anchorage off the river.
Caballos Nazca road. — ^The coast to the westward of cape I^azca falls back to the distance of 2 miles, and is composed of white sand hills; in the depth of this bight is Caballos road, a rocky, shallow spot, and should only be known to be avoided. Boats can not effect a landing; the wind comes around the cape in heavy gusts which, with a long ground swell, makes it doubtful if two anchors would hold.
Caballos road is uninhabited, and only visited by vessels which go to load cotton, cochineal, wines, and other products of the neighboring estates. Generally strong southerly winds prevail from 10 a. m. till midnight.
Vessels entering should select the morning, and be prepared for strong gusts. After rounding two small points inside cape l!^azca the flagstaff* should be seen; but if it be down the place where it stood would be a guide for anchoring, being a small hill or mound on the beach.
The most sheltered berth from wind and sea is in 6 fathoms, sand, with the flagstaff S. 78o W. (S. 68o W. mag.), about 300 yards distant. Vessels should moor with 70 fathoms of cable. The work of loading, etc., must be done when the wind subsides, and sometimes at full and change of the moon the winds continue through the night.
Dona Maria point. — From cape Kazca the coast continues in the same northwesterly direction for 28 miles to Dona Maria point, which is low, rugged, Jind surrounded by rocks and bowlders. From Caballos road, the coast to a short distance west of the lea river, 7 miles distant, is a sandy beach, with ranges of moderately high sand hills; from thence to Dona Maria point it is rocky^ with grassy cliffs immediately over it, and some small white rocks off' the shore.
Several vessels have anchored northward of Olleros point, at 15 miles northwestward of cape Nazca, to load local produce; the depths are 7 fathoms at 600 yards off shore, and there is no shelter whatever. There are two rocks S. 56^ W. (S. 46^ W. mag.) of the point, which is low and sandy.
346 COAST OP PERtr.
La Mesa de Dona Maria is a remarkable flat-topped mountain, 2,160 feet high, which may be seen in clear weather at a considerable dis- tance from seaward, and from its height and x)eculiar shape is a good mark for this part of the coast.
Los InfiemilloB are a number of rocks making out from Dona Maria point. Conspicuous among them is a black rock, in the form of a sugar- loaf, about 50 feet high and lying nearly a mile from the northern end of Dona Maria point.
There are 54 fathoms at 2 miles distant, and the rock should not be passed under that distance.
Mayro rock is reported to lie IJ miles K 62o W. (N. 72o W. mag.) of Infiernillos rock.
Azua point, 10 miles KKW. of Dona Maria point, is a high bluff with a low rocky point off it. Between it and Dona Maria point th<ttre is a sandy beach, interrupted by rocky projections and a small stream run- ning from the hills. Dardo head is the KW. point of Viejas island, forming the southern point of the northern entrance to Independencia bay.
Independencia bay is in latitude 14^ 18' S. This extensive bay, 15 miles long, is bounded on the west by the islands of Viejas and of Santa Eosa, and on the east by the mainland, which is moderately high, cliffy, and broken by a sandy beach, at the end of which is the small fishing village named Tungo, inhabited occasionally.
Approaching the coast mount Garretas on the mainland and Lecky cone on Viejas island, both nearly the same height, are good marks. Mount Quemado, 2,070 feet high and very conspicuous, slopes gradually to the water's edge, and is much lighter in color. A few miles inland are Garrasco heights, 3,000 feet high.
Santa Rosa islets. — ^At the southern extremity of Viejas island there is a remarkable black lump of land in the shape of a sugarloaf, off which lies the white level islets of Santa Eosa, the SW. side of which is studded with rocks and breakers; but there is no danger a mile from the shore. The passages between Santa Eosa islets and Vieja« island are choked by rocks.
Serrate channel — The bay has two entrances : The southern, named Serrate channel, is formed by Santa Eosa islets on the north and Que- mado point on the south. It is f mile wide, with depths of 10 to 20 fathoms.
Tnqillana channel^ the northern, is formed by Garretas head on the north and by Dardo head on the south. It is 4f miles wide, and clear.
Current. — After strong southerly winds the current sets to the north- ward across Trujillana channel with considerable strength. Due allowance must be made for this current, especially when leaving the bay under sail, that the vessel is not set down on Garretas head.
Anchorage. — There is anchorage in any part of this spacious bay; the bottom is quite regular, about 20 fathoms all over, excepting off the
RALINILLO COVE — ^PISCO BAT. 347
shingle spit on the NE. side of Yiejas island, where a bank extends to the northward, on which there is 5 and 6 fathoms at If miles from the island; and this is the best place to anchor, for on the weather shore, near Quemado point, there are such sudden gusts off the high land that great difficulty would be found in landing; whereas, at the spit, a vessel is not inconvenienced by the wind.
Landing. — There is a snug cove or basin within the spit at the l^B, side of Yiejas island, where boats may land, or lie in safety at any time.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Independencia bay at 4h. 60m.; rise 4 feet.
Mount Wilson, 1,420 feet high, is near the shore, about 41 miles northward of mount Carretas.
Salinillo cove is in latitude 13° 59' S. Salt is exported from this cove, being shipped in small lighters, which are, however, frequently capsized by the heavy sea, breaking in 5J fathoms at times. The anchorage is in 8 fathoms, ^ mile N. 10^ E. (I^orth mag.) of Zarate island; the holding ground is bad.
Valdivia rock lies one mil6 S. 77o W. (S. 67° W. mag.) from Zarate Island; the sea breaks over it at long intervals.
Boqueron de PiscOc — From Carretas head the coast trends to the north and N W. for 20 miles to Huacas point, the SE. point of entrance of the boqueron de Pisco, and the shore between is a deep, angular bay, with the island of Zarate near its center. The boqueron is formed by the mainland on the east, and the island of San Gallan, 2f miles distant on the west, and has deep water. Mount Lechuza, on the east side of the boqueron and about IJ miles northward of Huacas point, rises 1,581 feet above the level of the sea. It is of light color, and at its greatest height is sharp pointed.
(H. O. Chart No. 1178.)
San Gallan island. — This island, about 2 miles in diameter, is 1,3G8 feet high, is of a light color, with a bold-cliff outline. There is a deep valley dividing the hills, which, when seen from the SW., gives it the appearance of a saddle. The south end of the island terminates abruptly, while its northern end slopes more gradually, and off it there are some detached rocks, the northernmost of which is 180 feet high and has the appearance of a ninepin.
Pineiro rock, south of San Gallan island, is much in the way of vessels bound to Pisco bay from the southward. The rock covers at times, but when it blows hard and the weather tide is running there is such a confused cross sea that the whole space is covered with foam, rendering it difficult to distinguish. At such a time the mainland shore should be kept well aboard until past the rock.
Pisco bay. — This extensive bay, formed by the peninsula of Paracas on the south and the Ballesta and Ohincha islands on the west, is the principal port of the province of lea. The town of Pisco is built on
348 COAST OF PERU.
the eastern side about a mile from the sea. Qaantities of a spirit named pisco are annually exported to different parts of the coast; sugar is also an article of trade, but pisco is the staple commodity. Supplies can be obtained on reasonable terms. Wood is scarce. Pisco is in communication with lea, the capital of the province, by means of a railway; also by telegraph.
Paracas bay. — There is excellent anchorage in Paracas bay. A good berth for a large ship is in 7 fathoms, with Blanca island (El Novillo) in line with Eipio point, distant 1,200 yards. Care must be taken not to shut in Blanca island with the point. In this berth there is more shelter and a convenient landing. There is good anchorage off the watering place, 2 miles south of Paracas village, in 4 fathoms. There is no surf, and the wells are near the beach.
Landing. — The iron pier, 600 yards long, extending in a westerly direction from the north end of the town of Pisco, renders landing and communication with the shore comparatively easy; but when the swell sets in during an afternoon a confused sea is driven through the piles on which the pier is erected, making landing in small boats difficult. Fresh water may be obtained from a pipe leading along the side of the pier. There is a depth of 18 feet at low water at the extremity of the pier.
Light. — ^At the end of the pier in Pisco bay stands an octagonal tower, painted white, from which is exhibited, at 46 feet above the sea, a fixed white light, which can be seen in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. It illuminates an arc of 180° seaward, 90° on each side of the axis of the pier.
San Andres. — ^About 5 miles north of Paracas is the small hamlet and fishing village of this name. It is used as a summer resort by the inhabitants of the interior.
Tres Marias islets are three small pointed rocks, free from danger, lying in a north and south direction in the northern part of the channel or boqueron. The northern islet is IJ miles to the southward of Bal- lesta islands and the southernmost islet is 2J miles SW. by N. from cape Paracas.
Salcedo rock, with only 3 feet on it at low water, and 4 fathoms close- to, lies 600 yards N. 33o E. (N. 23^ E. mag.) from the northern- most of the Tres Marias islets.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Pisco bay at 7h.; springs rise about 4 feet.
Anchorage. — On the east side of Blanca island there are 12 fathoms, muddy bottom; and from this depth the water decreases gradually to the anchorage. A good berth is in 4 fathoms, muddy bottom, with the church open of the road, bearing K 87^ E. (N. 77^ E. mag.) f mile off shore; or for receiving or discharging cargo, a convenient berth is in 4 fathoms on the S W. side of the pier, but vessels drawing more than' 17 feet should anchor farther out to protect themselves from the frequent
PISCO BAY. 349
heavy swell and rollers. From noon till sunset traffic is often inter- rupted by a strong southerly wind, known as the par ocas. A heavy surf beats on the beach, with rollers to the distance of J mile oif.
Directions. — When approaching from seaward, the coast about Pisco may easily be known by the island of San Gallan and the high penin- sula of Paracas at the back of it, which make like large islands, the land on each side being considerably lower, and falling back to the east- ward, so as not to be visible at a moderate distance. As the shore is approached the Chincha and Ballesta islands will be seen, which will confirm the position, there being no other islands lying off the coast near this parallel.
Vessels bound from the southward for Pisco bay, or the Ghinchas, should endeavor to make the land about Oarretas head, as a current of from 12 to 20 miles a day will generally be found setting along this part of the coast. From thence a course should be shaped for the boqueron, which, though narrow, is bold-to on both sides, and is the best passage into the bay, as it is usually free from fog, and the wind blows right through it. The description of Pineiro rock should be attended to, as from the broken sea before mentioned it is so difficult to make out that in a fast steamer there would hardly be time to clear it. By keeping close to the Paracas side, however, it will be avoided. When hauling into Pisco bay round cape Paracas, care must be taken to avoid some shoal ground to the NE. of the cape, which looks dangerous. Vessels have had to haul to the northward in less than 4 fathoms from turning the point too sharp. The safest plan is to run one mile past the cape, when a K. 50^ E. (N. 40° E. mag.) course should be steered for Blanca island, which should not be passed too closely on its southern side, and then toward the church of Pisco, which will lead directly to the anchorage.
Coming from the northward. — ^After passing the Chincha islands stand in boldly to the anchorage. The water shoals quickly on that side of Blanca island, but there is no danger whatever. Vessels hav- ing to ballast in Paracas bay should work up and anchor under Eipio point, on the NE. side of the peninsula. They can lie close to the shore, and boats may land with expedition.
Chincha islands. — These three small islands have been of the utmost Importance to Peru. The immense quantity of guano exported from thence brought a large revenue. It is, however, reported (1881) that the guano deposits are completely worked out.
North island. — On the NE. side of the island are two sunken rocks, with 6 and 7 feet water on them, lying nearly 400 yards from the shore. The east point of the Middle Chincha kept open of the SE. point of North island until the Northwest rock opens of that island will clear these dangers.
Although the depth of water off the Ohincha islands is great, there being upward of 40 fathoms at f mile from the shore, the anchorage
350 COAST OP PERU.
may be considered secare, as it never blows strong, except from the southward. The best anchorage is in the passage between !N^orth and Middle islands, in 18 or 19 fathoms, white sand and shell.
South island is separated from Middle island by a channel 400 yards wide. The anchorage is neither good nor adapted to large ships, as the water in the center of the channel is shoal and a namber of rocks are scattered about. A good lookout should be kept for reefs that lie 400 yards S. 68^ E. (S. 78° E. mag.) of the east part of the island, as the sea does not always break on them, and 500 yards eastward of the east end of the island there is a patch of 12 feet with 7 fathoms inside it.
The best anchorage in the channel between Middle and South islands is at the eastern entrance. The 8W, side is filled with rocks, and should not be approached.
Ooleta (Sugarloaf) islet lies f mile to the southwestward of the South Chincha island. It is the highest of three islets, being 170 feet high, surrounded by rocks on which the sea always breaks.. Half mile SE. of Sugarloaf is a small hummock named Flat rock.
Pisco river. — ^Two and one-half miles north of the Pisco warehouses is the mouth of Pisco river, which has a large quantity of water during the summer, but is apt to be perfectly dry in winter.
Caucato heights. — North of Pisco river are some hills, commencing on the beach and extending inland, known to the natives as the Altos de Caucato (Caucato heights). They are the only hills near the sea at this part.
Port Caucato. — Korth of the heights the coast forms a small bend, called Port Caucato. The anchorage is unsheltered; there is a heavy swell, and the surf, which always beats upon the beach, usually renders it impracticable to land in ships' boats. Launches are, therefore, taken from Pisco for that purpose. Anchorage is in 4 to 5 fathoms at i mile from shore.
Chincha river.^From the Caucato heights northward the coast con- tinues low and sandy for about 8 miles to the Chincha river, which has usually an abundance of water from January to May, but is almost dry during the rest of the year.
Port Tambo de Mora is 15 miles north of Pisco, and will be recog- nized by the range of cliffs of a light color extending from Topara river to the roads. Upon the lower part of these cliffs, at a distance of IJ miles south of the river, is a conspicuous clump of underwood j also a noticeable white house upon the beach.
The steamers, which frequently call here, anchor in 4| fathoms, with the white house bearing S. 6So E. (S. 78° E. mag.).
Landing is always dangerous, and should not be attempted in a ship's boat.
Cerro AzuL — From Pisco a low, sandy beach with regular soundings off it trends in a northerly direction 12 miles, as far as Chincha river, and from thence to Canete river, 27 miles to the NW., the coast is a line of clay cliffs from 430 to 640 feet high. From this river to Fraile point
LOBERIA POINT — SANTA MARIA BAT. 351
a beautiful and fertile valley fringes the shore, and to (he northeast- ward of Fraile point stands the town of Cerro Azul. The valley of Canete produces rum and sugar, for which it is resorted to by coasters. The anchorage is N. 57 o W. (K 67^ W. mag.) of the bluff that forms the cove, | mile distant, in 7 fathoms; nearer the shore the water is shoal, which causes a long swell.
Landing.— The landing place is on the northern side of Fraile point, on a stony beach, where a heavy surf, however, constantly breaks. A wooden pier connected with the works of Quebrada and Oasa Blanca also affords facilities for landing and commerce.
Cauete, the capital of the province of that name^ is situated 5 miles from the coast. It carries on considerable trade with neighboring towns,
Loberia point — This point is about 5 miles north of Gerro Azul. It projects but little, and off it are three rocks, above water, which form on the north a small cove, in which there is no convenient landing.
Malpaso de Asia point, 9 miles to the northward of Loberia point, is a small, cliffy point detaching itself from a low and sandy beach.
Asia island, lying one mile off* shore, 17 miles N. 28° W. (N. 38o W. mag.) of Cerro Azul, is round, white, and about one mile in circumference, with some rocks extending from it to the shore. The coast between it and Cerro Azul forms a bay, but scarcely affording anchorage. The coast line is partly a rocky and partly a sandy beach; inshore are heights of about 1,400 feet, declining gradually toward the coast.
Chocalla point, 3 miles north of Asia island, is but slightly project- ing, and is formed by black rocks with white patches. To leeward of the point is a bight in which there is no conveuient place for lying-to on account of the heavy surf. This bight is bounded on the north by a hill 580 feet high, known as Alto de Salazar (Salazar height).
Mala river and valley. — At 1^ miles north of Salazar height is the mouth of the small Mala river. It flows through a rough valley which opens in this part. There is no place to lie-to on account of heavy breakers.
Calavera Head. — ^Low cliffs with sandy beach continue for 8 miles from Mala river northward to Calavera head, an isolated mount which projects toward the sea, and is composed of black rocks with white patches. On the west side it is steep and terminates in a sharp crest.
Port Chilca — ^At 20 miles NW. by "S. from Asia island is Chilca point. It has several rises on it, and terminates in a steep cliff', with a small, flat rock close off it. The valley of Chilca lies 3 miles to the eastward of the point, and the snug little port of Chilca, protected from the sea by Chilca island, IJ miles to the northward of the point. This is a safe cove, but very confined. Anchorage is good in any part of it, in 5 to 7 fathoms, and landing tolerable. There is a small village at its head.
Tides. — It is high^ water, full and change, at Port Chilca at 5h. 30m. ; springs rise about 4 feet.
Santa Maria bay is about 5 miles northward from Chilca island.
352 COAST OP PERU.
On tlfe SB. side of the bay is Ourayaco cove, where landing may be effected and anchorage obtained in from 12 to 17 fathoms, 400 yards off shore. A sunken rock, with 12 feet on it, lies 200 yards K 32o W. (S. 420 W. mag.) of the rocks off the west point of the cove.
Cruz de Palo cove is a little less than half the distance between Ohilca and Lurin.
Pachacamac island. — ^From Ohilca the coast forms a bend for 13 miles to the valley of Lurin, off which lie several islands, the north- ern and largest one, i mile in length and about 200 yards broad, being named Pachacamac island. Two small islets, named, respectively, San Francisco and Sauce, lie south of and near to Pachacamac, but are inaccessible on account of the heavy breakers. San Francisco islet is most remarkable, being 350 feet high, like a sugarloaf rounded at the top. The group lies nearly parallel to the coast in a KW. and SE. direction.
Viuda rocks, at the northern extreme of Pachacamac islands, is a small reef in two parts, on which the sea always breaks.
Corcovado reef, nearly a inile long, is one mile to the southeast- ward of San Francisco island. The sea u&ually breaks over it, but vessels bpund to Lurin should keep a lookout for it.
Pescadores landing is a mere indentation in the coast 1,600 yards wide. A reef extends 600 yards seaward from the south point of the cove. Landing can be effected occasionally.
Anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms can be obtained about a mile off shore, but a heavy swell is thrown in.
Lurin river. — To the north of Pachacamac island is the Lurin river, which is well supplied with water from February to May; but during the other months it has not sufficient force to make its way into the sea. The valley, however, which it waters appears fertile, and well cultivated when seen from the offing. South of the river, about i mile from the shore, stands the town of Lurin.
Solar point. — ^From Lurin to Solar point the coast trends NW. for about 11 miles, and is a low sandy beach with moderately high hills a short distance into the interior. This part of the coast is known as the Playa de Oouchan (Oouchan beach).
Morro Solar, the summit of the southern point of the Ohorillos, is a remarkable cluster of hills, 890 feet high, standing on a sandy plain. When seen from the southward it has the appearance of an island in the shape of a gunner's quoin, sloping to the westward, and falling very abruptly inshore. Its sea face, however, terminates in a steep cliff, named Oodo point, with a sandy bay on each side, the one to the south being named Solar bay and that to the north Salto del Fraile bay. In the latter there is tolerable anchorage in from 5 to 9 fathoms near the land and a convenient place for lying-to. Off Solar point there is a small islet with some rocks lying about. Off Ohorillos point, 2 J miles to the northward^ a reef of rocks projects about 400 yards. Around
CHORILLOS BAY — CALLAO BAY. 353
this reef, on the NE. side of a hill name Salto del Fraile (Friar's leap), lie the town and road of Ghorillos.
Chorillos bay. — The town of Ghorillos is built on a' cliff at the foot of one of the slopes of the morro Solar, and is used chiefly as a bathing place for the inhabitants of Lima. Should circumstances render the road of Oallao a dangerous berth, vessels may go to Chorillos bay, though in every other respect an unfit place for anchoring, as the bot- tom is hard sand, with patches of stone and clay mixed together, called tosca, and the heavy swell that sets around the point, causing almost a roller, brings a vessel up to her anchor and throws her back again with a sudden jerk, which endangers dragging the anchor or snapping the cable. There is cable communication with Valparaiso and Iquique.
Anchorage marks. — Sailing vessels anchoring in Chorillos bay should keep Solar point open off Codo point. By so doing they will ride in 7 or 8 fathoms and not have so much swell as there is farther in.
Steamers may anchor nearer the town in 6 fathoms, but the islet off Solar point should not be shut in by Ghorillos point.
Landing. — The landing in the bay is bad. Ganoes built purposely, and dextrously managed, are the usual means of communication, though, no doubt, there are times when a ship's boat may land without danger, yet seldom without the crew being thoroughly drenched. When the swell is not too heavy landing may be had at the pier, on the end of which there is a flagstaff'.
El Barranco. — ^A village with a church named El Barranco stands on the edge of the high level land 1^ miles north of Ghorillos. The neighboring beach offers no safe landing on account of the continuous breakers.
Miraflores. — This place is 2 miles north of El Barranco. Its build- ings can be clearly distinguished from Ghorillos. Both Miraflores and El Barranco are on the railroad from Lima to Ghorillos, and are used as summer resorts.
Callao point — From Ghorillos the coast takes a sweep, with cliffs diminishing in height, to Gallao point, which is a shingle bank stretch- ing out toward the island of San Lorenzo, and which with it forms the extensive and commodious bay of Gallao. The beach between Mira- flores and Gallao point is known as the La Mar Brava (the boisterous sea), on account of the heavy surf which constantly breaks there and which makes it inaccessible during the greater part of the year.
Horadada islet is 3 miles off shore, on a line between Ghorillos and Fronton island, 6 miles from Ghorillos and 3 miles from Fronton, near the middle of the bay. The islet, 70 feet high, may be known by its having a hole through it. Several rocks are scattered a short distance around it. At i mile there is no danger, but in passing the soundings should not be reduced under 9 fathoms.
Callao bay. — Gallao is well known as the seaport of the city of
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364 COAST OF PEEU.
Lima, which stands at the foot of the mountains 7 miles to the eastward, being but 500 feet above the level of the sea, and the ground having a gradual ascent. It is well seen from the anchorage in clear weather, and has a very imposing appearance. The town, castle, and forts of Oallao extend about 2 miles along the beach that fronts the bay. The castle is now used as a customhouse.
Oallao bay is formed by Gallao point and the long spit that stretches off from it toward San Lorenzo island. A part of this spit, termed the Whales Back, just shows, the sea breaking violently along its ridge. This roadstead, having the island of San Lorenzo protecting it from the long swell from the ocean and the prevalent southerly winds, becomes a fine harbor.
The port of Gallao, as well as the Oovernment, and indeed the whole country of Peru, has profited much by the vast quantities of guano exported from the Ghincha and other islands. All vessels that come here for this purpose are obliged to clear at Gallao on their arrival and departure.
Position. — According to latest determinations, St. Lorenzo light- house is considered to be in latitude 12^ 4' 3" S., longitude 7iO 15' 44" W.
Wharf accommodation, etc. — ^There are several piers forming commodious basins, in which vessels lay alongside the wharves and dis- charge cargo by means of steam cranes. A railway connects the port with the capital. A mole, named Muelle Darsena, is used for the dis- charge of corn and flour. A railway leading to the neighboring town, Eellavista, has a terminus here.
There are also moles belonging to the dock company. Pacific Steam Navigation Gompany, and others, in the vicinity of which are the ware- houses, factories, etc.
The mole in the eastern part of the bay forms the terminus of the great railway which traverses the Andes. The station at Oroya is 12,000 feet above the sea and is distant 160 miles from Gallao.
Vessels can be coaled alongside a wharf at which the depth is 24 feet at low water, or from the coal hulks.
There is ample means for the repair of either ships or machinery.
Landing. — The custom-house is at the entrance to the mole. At the south end there is a basin with steps for men-of-war. No shore boats are permitted. Boats are not allowed to lie at the steps but must haul out to buoys provided.
Port Regulations, etc. — Pilotage is not compulsory at Gallao, con- sequently there are no charges fixed by the authorities for such service; no payment should be made to any pilot for services rendered in the bay of Gallao, unless such services have been voluntarily called for by the master of a vessel entering.
By article 41 of the Port Regulations it is directed that before the captain of the port has made his visit to merchant vessels entering
CALLAO. 355
the bays such vessels shall not communicate with any boats whatever, including those belonging to the customhouse.
Article 43 sets forth that on ships entering ports, (Peruvian) and! while under sail or steam, port captains will make the official visit, and point out the place of anchorage they should occupy.
In the second paragraph of article 124 it is stated that sailing vessels will not be visited after sunset save in exceptional cases.
In article 129 of the same regulations it is laid down that if any ves- sel arrives during the night, and, by reason thereof, anchors outside the situation corresponding to the order established in said regula- tions, the captain of the port, on making his visit the following day, shall direct that the required change be made, and designate the position the ship ought to occupy.
Statistics, etc. — ^The population in 1886 was about 25,000. The prin- cipal exports are hides, copper, silver, and cocaine. The imports are general merchandise, coal, and agricultural machinery. The duties on all imports are very high, ranging from 30 to 50 per cent.
Climate. — Oallao may be said to enjoy uninterrupted fine weather at all seasons of the year. From October to the middle of December the temperature varies from 64^ to 68^j and during the summer months from 69° to 74°, the temperature of the sea water in the bay being generally about 60°, or about 12° to 14P below the average summer temperature of the air. The heat is seldom oppressive 5 the sea breeze from SSB. to SE. sets in regularly between the hours of 11 a. m. and 2 p. m. with the force of a royal breeze, when the anchorage is cool and pleasant; the nights are generally cool, sometimes even chilly, although the sea breeze seldom lasts after sunset, and the crews of ships prefer sleeping in hammocks to sleeping on the ui)per deck, as they are often compelled to do from the heat on the coast of Mexico or at Panama.
The early mornings are frequently damp and misty. In December and March fogs are common, lasting about a week at a time; northerly winds are rare, light, and accompanied by gloomy weather.
In May cloth clothing is worn with comfort, and people return to Lima from Chorillos.
A nauseous smell, usually called the painter, is frequently experi- enced by vessels in this port. It dei)osits on white paint and whitewash a thick slime of a chocolate color, washing off from the former, but spoiling its after appearance. Some ascribe it to the vast number of small dead fish that are washed in by the swell and deposited in the sand ; others suppose it to proceed from the mud at the bottom of the sea or to be of volcanic origin ; this latter is probably the cause.
Yellow fever. — Occasionally visitations of yellow fever occur. In 1868 the number of deaths at Callao amounted to 60 daily and at Lima from 250 to 280 daily, when Chorillos was but slightly visited.
During that period the weather was unusually hot, being 82^ In the
356 COAST OF PERU.
shade, and the temperatare of the sea increased from 60^ to 74^. In such cases the anchorage at entrance of the boqueron, off the factory, will be found healthy, as there is nearly always a breeze, and crews of ships may be landed on San Lorenzo for exercise without danger.
Supplies of all sorts may be obtained at Callao for shipping, fresh provisions, as well as vegetables, with an abundance of fruit. Water is brought off in tanks and pumped on board at $2 per ton, but it is not considered good; it can also be obtained from pipes on the mole, but it is best to condense all drinking water. Abundance of coal may be had at moderate prices. Wood is scarce, mostly imi)orted, and dear. All kinds of stores, etc., are to be had, though far from reasonable.
Fish are plentiful, and there are good places to haul the seine at Lorenzo island.
There is a hospital where seamen can be received.
Floatixig dock. — The floating dock is 300 feet long on the blocks, 76 feet wide inside, and is capable of taking a vessel of 21 feet draft, and has docked a vessel of 4,350 tons displacement.
There are four steam pumps, each capable of discharging 6,000 gallons per minute; it can be sunk in two hours and pumped out in the same time. A wooden gate at the entrance enables the vessels of less than 300 feet over all to take the blocks without apparently striking on them. This is important, as frequently at full and change of the moon a heavy swell sets into the bay, although sheltered from the prevailing south- erly winds. If circumstances permit, it will be found advantageous to enter the dock during the morning before the breeze commences. The dock company has generally all it can do.
Telegraphs. — There is submarine- telegraph communication between Callao, Iquique, Valparaiso, Santa Elena, San Juan del Sur, and Salina Cruz.
Lights. — On the north point of San Lorenzo island is an octagonal lighthouse. The light is poor, and not a reliable light to run for. It is 946 feet above the sea, and is rarely visible 12 miles. From the harbor, at a distance of 5 miles, the light is almost invisible at times. It is often enveloped in a thick fog or haze which hangs over the land.
Between the bearings of N. 25o W. (N. 35o W. mag.) and N. 60o W. (N. 70° W. mag.) it is hidden by the peak of the island, and when just open, bearing K. 63^ W. (K. 73° W. mag.), leads through the boqueron in 4^ fathoms.
On the head of the south mole at entrance to the harbor is a fixed white light, and a red light is shown at the landing place.
The faces of the Lima railway station clock are illuminated.
A lighthouse is in course of construction on the largest of Palomi- nos rocks, southward of San Lorenzo. When Palominos light is exhib- ^ ited, the light at present shown on the north point of San Lorenzo, will be discontinued.
Lima, the capital city of Peru, stands on a plain at the foot of some granite hills, chiefly on the southern bank of the BimaC; which river
CALLAO. 357
flows into the sea 2 miles north of Callao. In the range of mountains, which extends north and SE. of the city, two conspicuous peaks, one 3 miles to the north and the other 8 miles to the SB., rise, respectively, 3,000 and 3,420 feet high, and are visible from the anchorage in Gallao bay.
The United States is represented by an envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary in Linia, and by a consul and vice-consul in Callao.
San Lorenzo island is 4J miles long, NW. and SE., one mile broad, and rises to an elevation of 1,220 feet above the sea. Off its SE. end at 800 yards lies a small but bold-looking island, 521 feet high, named Fronton, almost connected with San Lorenzo by a reef. Its northern extreme, or cape San Lorenzo, on which stands the lighthouse, is clear of danger, and round it is the usual passage to the anchorage of Callao.
Directions. — Sailing vessels, when founding cape San Lorenzo, should not close the land nearer than J mile, for within that distance there are light baffling airs, caused by eddy winds round the island.
Should there be occasion to work to windward to reach the anchorage ' in Callao road, the long spit that stretches off from Callao point, and a rock, said to lie off* Galera point on the island of San Lorenzo, are so far to the southward that the vessel need scarcely apprehend borrowing on them; but great caution is required should darkness overtake a ship before she gained the anchorage.
During the months of January and February, when the freshets come down the Rimac river, large quantities of sand and bowlders are carried into the sea, causing the shoal water on the north side of Callao bay to be extended seaward.
Vessels of 23 feet draft should not approach the shore in this vicinity nearer than 1^ miles.
Approaching from the northward, care must be taken to avoid the wreck of the transport Loa^ sunk in 15 fathoms, with Carabaillo river entrance bearing East (N. 80° E. mag.), distant 4 miles.
Anchorage. — Ships may lie with the greatest safety in any part of Callao bay and in any depth of water, on clear ground and gradual soundings, from 20 to 3J fathoms up to the wharves and landing place. A good berth for a small vessel stationed at Callao is in 5^ fathoms, with San Lorenzo lighthouse bearing S. 86° W. (S. 70° W. mag.) and Bound island S. 24o W. (S. 14° W. mag.) and 1,200 yards off shore.
If desirable, a berth may be had at the entrance of the boqueron, off San Lorenzo island, to the northward of the factory, in 7 fathoms; but care must be taken to anchor clear of the remains of the sunken dock lying about 500 yards S. 80^ E. (East mag.) of the point on which the factory stands; the wreck has 14 feet over it.
Occasionally heavy rollers set into this otherwise quiet anchorage without any apparent cause, breaking with great violence on the steep shingle beach, sometimes injuring the embankments of piles that protect
358 COAST OP PERU.
the foandations of the railway and other works; bat landing is seldom interrupted at any of the piers.
Port charges. — Mole dues.— Twelve cents per register ton every time ship enters port, and 75 cents per ton weight or measnrement on all cargo discharged or embarked.
Tonnage dues. — Twenty cents per ton register every six months.
Light dues. — ^One and one-fourth cents per register ton. dues. — Four cents per register ton. rocks, 140 feet high, he about 3 miles SW. of the SE. extreme of San Lorenzo island, with 18 fathoms inside them.
Boqueron of Callao. — The above is the obvious route to Gallao, but there is another which, with common precaution, may be used with advantage to vessels coming from the southward by passing through the boqueron between the island of San Lorenzo and Gallao point. There is no regular tide, yet a little drain of current is always felt, sometimes to the NW. and sometimes to the contrary. Should the stream be adverse, and it falls calm wtile in the channel, there is anchorage. With a heavy swell from SW. there is a strong northerly current through the boqueron. When there is a freshet in the liimac there is a strong current across the bay.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in this channel at 5h. 47m.; springs rise 4 feet.
Directions. — After making Fronton island, steer so as to keep its southern end about a point open on the port bow, until Gallao castle is seen, which, with its two martello towers, stands on the inner part of the shingle bank that forms the point; then steer for that castle, bear- ing !N^. 10° B. (North mag.), until the scar is in line with a large house northwestward of Seabird point, bearing N. 63^ W. (N, 73o W. mag.). This will lead through in not less than 5 fathoms, passing about 600 yards westward of the SW. spit of Gamotal bank. The lighthouse, in line with the large square house, leads over Fronton shoal in 4 fathoms.
When the western martello tower in the castle comes in one with the northern part of Gallao point, she will be off the pitch of the Gamotal bank, and may haul gradually round to the northward till that tower opens clear of the breakers on the spit, when a course may be shaped for the anchorage, taking care not to come nearer the Whales Back than the depth of 6 fathoms, as the SW. side is steep-to and dangerous, and its position is often changed by the heavy surf.
The SW. spit of Gamotal bank, composed of course, white sand and broken shell, is dangerous and steep-to, the water deepening from 22 feet to 10 fathoms in a ship's length. The heavy surf also, that sets in about full and change, frequently alters it, making the channel much narrower.
Vessels drawing more than 18 or at the most 20 feet should not attempt this channel unless well acquainted with it, the leading marks being more frequently obscured than otherwise.
C ARAB AILLO RIVER— ANCON BAY. 359
Carabaillo river empties into Callao bay 5 miles north of Eimac river. It carries more water than the Eimac, notwithstanding the heavy drains made upon it for the irrigation of the adjacent valleys.
It is shoal near all this part of the coast, and not prudent to approach within one mile for 9 miles north of Callao, as, by the discharge of the rivers, sand has accumulated in their vicinity, and in all this distance there is but 1^ to 2 fathoms of water.
Cerro Monton de Trigo. — At 9^ miles to the northward of Gallao an isolated, sharp-pointed mountain of moderate height is to be seen upon the low beach. It derives its name, Monton de Trigo, from its resem- blance to a wheat stack, and owing to its position is noteworthy.
Bernal point. — Bernal point, in front of the Monton de Trigo, is a small and low sandy tongue, which projects but little. It is of no importance.
Hormigas de Afnera. are a small cluster of rocks 31 miles westward of San Lorenzo island. The largest, 25 feet high, is about f mile in circumference. There is no sign of vegetation; it is merely a resting place for birds and seals. Landing may be effected, if requisite, on its north side, but with difficulty. The northern rock (above water) is one mile from the southern, or highest. From it a reef extends a short •distance to the northward, and frotn the southern rock breakers extend to the southeastward about 300 yards. Being somewhat in the way of vessels bound to Gallao from the northward and of those leaving that port for the westward, care should be taken not to approach these rocks within one mile, for fear of being overtaken by one of those dense fogs which are so frequent on the Peruvian coast. The water is deep close-to around, and no warning would be given by the lead, and the current usually sets to the northwestward at the rate of J mile an hour.
The coast. — From Callao the coast is a sandy beach, trending in a northerly direction 13 miles, until it reaches Paiicha point.- It then becomes higher and breaks into cliffs, and maintains this character for 4 miles, as far as Mulatas point, around to the eastward of which is Ancon bay.
Pescadores islands.— To the West and SW. of Mulatas point are the Pescadores islands, ten in number, the outer of which is the largest. A sunken rock lies to the eastward of the large islet, otherwise there appears to be no danger among the group; they are steep-to, with 10 to 30 fathoms near them. The easternmost islet, named Splitario, is i mile off shore, with a passage for coasters inside it.
Hormigas de Tierra, or the inshore Hormigas or Ants, are two rocks above water, about one mile l^W. of the largest qf the Pescadores islands. Caution is required in approaching Ancon bay from the west- ward, as the lead would give no warning of these rocks.
Ancon bay. — The bay is not easily made out from the southward until abreast Mulatas point, but there is no difficulty in finding it, as the ship's position can be ascertained by bearings of Pescadores islands
360 COAST OP PERU.
and a direct coarse steered for it; the passages between the islands are clear of dangers.
Anchorage may be taken up in from 5 to 7 fathoms 600 or 800 yards NW. of tbe town. The bay affords shelter from all winds except those between KNW. and West. Ancon is a rising town, and is connected by railway with Lima, also with Ohancay to the northward.
Provisions of all kinds must be brought from Lima, and water is scarce.
Tomacalla point. — North of Ancon bay the hills approach the coast, leaving in some places not even a path at their base. Several detached rocks lie a distance of 400 yards to the northward of this point. In calm weather boats can make a landing on a small beach north of the point.
Pasamayo point. — ^North of Tomacalla point the coast continues high and rocky 3^ miles, to Pasamayo point. North of this point is a small cove which is inaccessible on account of the heavy surf.
From Pasamayo point northward the coast is a low and sandy beach; 3 miles northward of the point is the Pasamayo or Ghancay river, which is tolerably well supplied with water in summer.
Chancay bay, at 12 miles NN W. of Mulatas point, is a confined place, and fit only for small coasters. It may be known by the bluff head that forms the point, and has three hills on it in an easterly direction.
At the head of the bay are two small coves, the eastern of which has the more convenient landing. The little promontory which sepa- rates them is of a blackish color and surrounded by rocks, some of which appear above water. Vessels intending to remain for several days should have an anchor astern, with the head toward SW., to avoid the inconVenient rolling. The town stands on the plateau IJ miles distant, and is connected by rail and telegraph with the capital.
From Chancay a shingle beach named Playa Grande, with a few broken, cliffy points, extends to Salinas point. The hills are near the coast, and from 400 to 500 feet high.
A sunken wreck lies in 11 fathoms water 1,700 yards N. 4^ W. (N. 140 W. mag.) of Ohancay head.
Salinas point, at 27 miles NW. of Chancay head, is the southwestern extremity of the broad promontory of Salinas. Off its southern point there is a reef of rocks J mile from the shore, and at its northwestern angle, named Bajas point, there is an islet 20.0 yards distant. There are two coves in the sea face, but they are fit for boats only. The southern cove, named Herradura de Salinas, has 7 fathoms 600 yards off shore, but there is always a heavy swell.
Misteriosa rock lies midway between Salinas and Bajas points, nearly one mile off shore.
This sunken danger, on which the sea sometimes breaks, lies nearly in the track of vessels bound from Callao to Huacho. Care should be taken when passing its neighborhood to preserve a proper oflBng.
bay. — Eastward of Bajas point is Salinas bay of large,
SALINAS BAT — HUACHO BAT. 361
dimensions and aflfording roomy anchorage. The remarkable Tound hill of Salinas, 899 feet high, rises at a short distance from the coast, from a level, sandy plain, and at the south side of the plain lie the Salinas or salt lakes, which givQ the promontory its name, and which are visited occasionally by people from Huacho.
Playa Chica is in the easternmost part of Salinas bay, and off it is the best anchorage, in 4 to 8 fathoms near the shore. Shipments of the famous Huacho salt are made from here. There is a pier, and large boats can lie alongside at all tides. The loading proceeds rapidly, as there is always an abundance of salt. The salinas are 5 miles south of it, and are connected with this place by a tramway. There is a fair supply of water, and provisions can be obtained from Huacho.
Huaura islets is the name of a chain of islets extending 14 miles in a SW. direction from Salinas point. The largest, named Mazorca, is I mile long, 200 feet high, and yellow with guano. Sealers occasion- ally frequent this island, as there is a landing place on its north side. The southwesternmost, named Pelado islet, is about 150 feet high and conical. Between it and Mazorca a safe passage exists, and may be used without fear in working up to Oallao. Between Mazorca islet and Salinas point are several other islets, with passages between them clear of danger.
Two of these passages are generally used; the inner one is between the mainland and Tambillo island (which is rather a blind object at night), but the outer one between the Mazorca and Pelado islets is much used, being 6 miles wide and quite free from danger. Pelado islet is generally the first seen at night, forming a good mark for vessels bound to Huacho.
Huacho bay. — From Salinas bay the coast is moderately high and cliffy, without any break for 5 miles, as far as the small bay of Huacho, which lies NE. of Huacho head; the anchorage is good in 5 fathoms just within the two rocks off the northern part of the head. The hold- ing ground is good, but a heavy swell sets into the bay at times from the westward, rendering a stern anchor necessary.
Coming from seaward, the best distinguishing marks for Huacho bay are the three Beagle mountains, 4,000 feet high, in the near range, each having two separate peaks. They rise inland about 8 milQs, and on closing the coast mount Salinas tx) the southward, as well as the island of Don Martin to the northward, will be seen; about midway between them is Huacho bay, under a light-brown cliff, the top of which is covered with brushwood. To the southward the coast is a dark, rocky cliff
Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, at Huacho bay at 4h. 45m. ; springs rise 3 feet.
Town. — The town of Huacho is built about a mile northward of the bay, and when seen from seaward has a pleasant appearance; it is con- nected by telegraph with Lima, to which town large daily supplies of provisions of aU kinds are sent.
362 COAST OF PERU.
Supplies. — ^Fresh provisions, vegetables, and fruit are abandant; wood is also plentiful, and a stream of fresh water runs down the side of the cliff into the sea. Landing is tolerably good, and there is a pier for loading and unloading goods.
Population (1880) about 6,000.
Carquin bay is 2 J miles NNW. from Huacho bay, but is scarcely as large, and is useless to shipping on account of the constant heavy sur£ Garquin point is low and flat, but one mile north of it is a steep cliff with a sharp-topped hill over it, off which are some rocks above water, and Garquin islet is a short mile distant.
Don Martin island. — Korthward of Garquin islet 4 miles is Don Martin island, and northward of the point, abreast of it, is Begueta bay, no place for a vessel, being full of rocks and breakers and having nothing to induce one to go there.
Tomas point — From Begueta bay the coast is moderately high, with sandy outline to Atahuanqui point, 8 miles Nl^W. of it. This is a steep point with two mounds on it, and is partly white on its south side; there is a small bay on its north side, fit only for boats. Between this point and the south part of Tomas point, at 3^ miles farther north, the coast fonns a sandy bay, low and shrubby, with the town of Snpe about a mile from the sea. Tomas point is similar in appearance to Atahuanqui point, without the white on the south side.
Supe bay, to the northward of Tomas point, in latitude 10^ 50' S., is a snug little bay capable of containing four or five sail, and is the port of Supe and of Barranca. These places produce chiefly sugar and com, cargoes of which are taken by the coasting steamers. At the south end of the bay there is a fishing village, which is used by the inhabitants of Barranca during the bathing season. Supplies may be obtained, but water is scarce, the greater part of which is brought from Supe.
Landmarks. — ^Mount Usborne, 8,060 feet high, the highest and most remarkable mountain in the second range, is the best guide ^by which to recognize Supe bay. It bears from the anchorage N. 60° B. (1^. 50^ E. mag.). It is something of the shape of a bell, and has three distinct rises on its summit, the highest at the north end. On that side it shows distinctly, there being no other peak within a considerable dis- tance. Mount Darwin (Pico de Pativilca), 6,800 feet high, 20 miles N. by W. and 8 miles from the shore, is next in height. It is a sharp cone and light in color. In Supe bay there is a white rock off Barranca head, its northern point, and can not be mistaken, for there is no other like it near this part of the coast.
Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Supe bay at 4h. 45m.; springs rise 3 feet.
Directions. — ^When entering no danger need be apprehended. Tomas I)oint is bold, with regular soundings from 10 to 15 fathoms, extending I mile. Off Patillo point there are a few rocks, but there is no neces- sity for hugging the shore closely, as a vessel can always fetch the
BARRANCA HEAD — HUARMEY BAY. 363
anchorage by keeping at a moderate distance while standing in. The best anchorage is in 4 fathoms, with Tomas point shut in by Patillo point, about 200 yards from the rocks off that point and rather more than J mile from the village. Anchorage for large ships may be obtained farther out, in 6 or 7 fathoms, though but little sheltered from the swell.
Barranca head and bay. — Barranca head, 2^ miles !N'NW. of Tomas point, projects slightly, and just northward of it is Barranca bay, which is useless on account of the heavy surf that constantly breaks and the dangerous nature of the coast. One mile !^r. 12o W. (N. 22° W. mag.) of Barranca head several breaking rocks lie about 400 yards off shore.
The spit at Barranca (Pativilca) river entrance is reported to be grad- ually extending to the westward. Vessels navigating this part of the coast should not approach the Barranca river spit within the distance of 3 miles, especially in thick or hazy weather.
At the extreme north of the Pativilca valley are two notable objects near the sea, one named La Fortaleza, from the ruins of an Indian fort, and Horca hill (cerro de la Horca), a dark-colored rock, over a projecting point of the coast.
The coast from Supe bay is a clay cliff, about 100 feet in height, to Barranca river; it then becomes low and covered with brushwood to the foot of Horca hill, 6 miles farther north ; here it again becomes hilly near the sea, with alternate rocky points and small sandy bays, which continue for the distance of 18 miles to Jaguey point.
Santander point. — Two and one-half miles to the northwestward of Horca hill is a low, rocky point of a dark color, with an islet very near its western extreme. The point is clear, and can be passed close-to.
Port Bermejo lies 17 miles NW. of Supe bay. The anchorage is good, but exposed to the westerly swell; the bay being shallow, large vessels are not sheltered by the point.
In the middle of the shore of the bay there are some red cliffs, divided by a white mound, which forms an unmistakable landmark.
Directions. — When from the southward, give Bermejo point a wide berth, as foul ground extends 400 yards all round. The best anchorage is with the white mound above mentioned bearing S. 62° E. (S. 62° E« mag.) and Bermejo point S. 13° W. (S. 3^ W. mag.), in 5J fathoms, sandy bottom.
Callejones point, 7 miles I^TW. of Port Bermejo, is an elevated salient point; the rocks in its immediate vicinity are all visible.
Jaguey point, nearly 6 miles NW. from Callejones point, is low and surrounded by rocks, over which the sea constantly breaks.
Gramadal bay, on the north side of Jaguey i)oint, is a wild-looking place, with a heavy swell rolling in; but it is visited occasionally for hair seal, with which it abounds; there is anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the bluff that forms the bay bearing S. 12° E, (S. 220 E. mag.), about i mile from the shore; landing is scarcely practicable.
Huarmey bay. — ^The coast northward of Gramadal bay maintains
364 • COAST OP PERU.
its rocky character, with deep water off it for 9 miles, as far as Bnfad^o cliff, which is steep, having two paps 1,620 feet high on it a little in- shore. From Bofadero a rocky cliff from 200 to 300 feet high, with a more level country, extends for 12^ miles to Lagarto head, which is also a steep cliff, with the laud falling immediately inside it, and rising again to about the same height. Eastward of this head is Huarmey bay, considered a tolerable roadstead in comparison with other places, hav- ing anchorage everywhere in from 3^ to 10 fathoms, over a fine sandy bottom.
Firewood is the principal commodity, for which it is the best and cheapest place on the whole coast. There are also some saltpeter works, but little business is done in that line. The town is an oasis in a sandy desert, and lies in a northeasterly direction, about 2 miles from the anchorage, but is hidden by the surrounding trees; near the anchorage there are a few houses temporarily inhabited.
Harbor islet, rocky, of a whitish color and moderate height, is near the middle of Huarmey bay, about 1,600 yards from shore, with 8 fathoms 200 yards from it.
Directions. — When coming from seaward, the best way to make Huarmey bay is to stand in on the parallel of lOo 6' S., and when within a few miles of the coast a sharp-peaked hill with a large white mark on it will be seen standing alone a little north of the bay: the break in the hills through which the river runs is high and cliffy on each side. The land is also much lower to the northward of Lagarto head; there is a large white islet at the north part of Huarmey bay.
In sailing in, after having passed Lagarto head, Harbor islet will be seen toward the middle of the bay; steer for it, that the vessel may not border on the southern shore, for there are many straggling rocks extending from the points; and when sufficiently northward to shape a mid-channel course between Harbor islet and the point opposite it to the southward, do so, and it will lead to the anchorage. In standing in, in this direction, the water shoals gradually to the beach, but. the southern shore must on no account be approached nearer than J mile.
Anchorage. — The best anchorage is in 4 fathoms, about i mile from the landing place on the beach. This landing place does not seem to be so good .as a steep rock on the outer side of the bluff, where the sandy beach commences; but probably it is the most convenient for loading boats. The sea breeze sets in so strongly occasionally that it is difficult for boats to pull against it; this is particularly the case under the high land, whence it comes in sudden gusts and squalls.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions, vegetables, and fruit are plentiful nn ] moderate, but water is not to be depended on.
For several months after March a plentiful supply of water may be obtained from the river. In the summer season great drought is sometimes experienced.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Huarmey bay at about 6h.; springs rise 2 feet.
CULEBBAS COVE — CASMA BAY. 365
The coast from Huarmey bay trends in a northwesterly direction 9^ miles, to Gulebras point; the intervening coast is a mass of broken cliffs and innumerable detached rocks, with moderately high land near the shore. From this point the coast to the northward is broken into small sandy bays, and the Erizos rocks, 3 miles to the northward, and the Conejos islands, 5 miles to the northward, lie about f mile off sbore.
Culebras cove has a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms 500 to 600 yards from the south shore. There are some houses and a flagstaff in front of them. The beach is low, and boats effect a landing in the eastern corner, where the breakers are not so heavy. Some cotton is exported from here. The place is without resources.
Colina Redonda point and cove. — Northward 5 miles from Guleb- ras point are the white cliffy islets of Conejos, and from thence the coast curves inward, forming a bay, which terminates at Mongoncillo point, 7 miles farther north. A straight shore of 10 miles then extends toward Colina Bedonda point, having two hummocks, and which, when seen from the southward, appears like an island. On its north side is a cove bearing the same name, having temporary anchorage near the south shore in 8 fathoms.
" Mount Mongon, 3,900 feet high, is the highest and most conspicuous object on this part of the coast, although its lower part is often envel- oped in fog. When seen from the westward it has a rounded appear- ance, though with rather a sharp summit; but from the southward it shows as a long hill with a peak at each'end. It is said there is a lake of fresh water on the range between these peaks, and that its valleys abound with deer; but the truth of this depends on report.
Casma bay. — From mount Mongon a range of hills trends parallel to the coast, which is high and rocky, with some white islets lying off', to Calvario bluff, a steep and rocky headland, forming the southern head of Casma bay, at 10 miles N. by W. of Colina Eedonda.
Cotton of a superior quality is grown; also coru. These, with fire- wood and charcoal, form the articles of exx)ort.
The best distinguishing mark for Casma is the sandy beach in the bay, with the sand hills inshore of it, contrasting strongly with the hard dark rocks, of which the heads at the entrance are formed. There is also a small black islet (Black rock) lying IJ miles S. 83^ W. (S. 74o W. mag.) of North cheek. This rock is of a very dark color, some feet above water, steep-to, with 17 fathoms midway between it and the shore.
Casma bay is a snug anchorage, something in the form of a horse- shoe. The two entrance points are called cheeks.
The best anchorage is with the inner part of South cheek bearing about S. 120 E. (S. 21© E. mag.j, J mile off shore, in 7 fathoms, for by not going farther in a vessel escapes in a great measure the sudden gusts of wind that come down the valley with great violence.
There is a pier with convenient landing opposite the houses.
Quito rock, on which the steamer Quito struck, has on it a depth of
366 COAST OP PEEU.
12 feet, and lies with Galvario bluff bearing N. 6o E, (N. 3° W. mag.) 2J miles, and White islets S. 43© E. (S. 52° E. mag.). Yiuda island, about 6 miles north of Oasina bay, seen well open west of Black rock, leads westward of Quito rock.
Rock. — A rock with a least depth of llj feet water on it, steep-to witlk deep water around has been reported as lying about 1^ miles S. 240 W. (S. 150 W. mag.) of the extremity of Oalvario bluff.
Fergusson rock — Captain Fergusson, of H. M. S. Mentepj mentions a rock on the south side of the bay, ^ mile off shore, having only 9 feet water, and sometimes breaking. It was not seen by the Beagle^ but, as doubtless it exists, it has been inserted in the plan.
The coast from Gasma bay trends in a northwesterly direction 14 miles, and continues bold and rocky to Samancp bay; and midway between them the shore recedes into a deep bight, with two islands, Tortuga and Viuda, fronting it. Neither the bay nor the islands were examined as to their capabilities.
After passing this bight the coast continues in the same direction and with the same aspect 3 miles farther to Los Chinos rocks, which lie about 400 yards off shore, without any offlying danger.
Saxnanco head is a steep bluff with some rocks lying northward of it. North of the Chinos rocks the coast forms a bight IJ miles wide, with a low sandy beach, on which the sea always breaks, and which is, therefore, dififtcult of access; but sometimes boats land easily in the southern part. At the northern extremity of this bight a range of hills with dark rocks extend from the interior range westward to Samanco head. A small islet lies south of the head, but is without offlying dangers.
Bird island. — ^Inside the bay, about % mile from the NE. coast, is an island named Pajaro, or Bird island. It is of ordinary height, and covered with guano patches of whitish color. Some rocks on which the sea breaks extend 400 yards westward.
Lobo or Seal island forms the southern extremity of a mountain range, and the NW. limit of the entrance of Saraanco bay. It is about 400 yards from the shore, high, and bears the same aspect as the rest of the coast (dark rocks with white patches). The rocks near it are all awash, and the sea breaks on them.
Samanco bay is the most extensive on the coast of Peru northward of Callao. It is 6 miles deep, NW. and SE., and 3 miles wide. The entrance is 2 miles across, between Samanco head and Seal island. There are regular soundings all over the bay, with a depth of 20 fathoms at the entrance, shoaling gradually to leeward. At its SE. corner, in a sandy bay named Guambacho, stands a small village (the residence of some fishermen) at the termination of the Nepena river, which, like most rivers on the coast, has not suflBcieut strength to force a passage for itself through the beach, but terminates in a lagoon within a few yards of the sea. The town of Guambacho is about 3
SAMANCO BAY — FEEEOL BAY. 367
miles distant, at the eastern extremity of the valley, and Kepena, which is the principal town, lies to the northeastward about 15 miles. Bice, cotton, cereals, and firewood are exported.
Supplies may. be obtained from the neighboring towns. The water of the river is brackish and unfit for use, but there are wells on the left bank a short distance from the huts. When taken on board this water is not good, but after it has been sometime confined, it becomes wholesome.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Samanco bay at 6h. 30m.; springs rise 2 feet.
Directions. — When at a distance the best mark to distinguish Samanco bay is mount Division, 1880 feet high, with three sharp peaks rising from the peninsula between Samanco and Ferrol bay. There is also a bell-shaped hill, which shows very distinctly, on the south side of the bay. Mount Tortuga, a short distance inland to the eastward, will also be seen. It is higher, but similar in appearance to the BeU mount (Campana de Samanco).
On opening the bay Leading bluff will be seen, a large mass of rock, on the sandy beach at the NE. side, and looking like an island.
Anchorage. — When going in give Samanco head a fair berth in passing. A vessel may then stand in as close as convenient to the weather shore, and anchor off the village in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms, sandy bottom. When rounding the inner points take care of the small spars, for the wind comes off the Bell mount in sudden and variable puffs. A considerable swell sets into the bay, causing a ship to roll unless sprung head on by a stern anchor.
Ferrol bay (Fort Chimbote), northward of Samanco, is nearly equal in size and is separated from it by a low sandy isthmus. The entrance is clear, but 600 yards west of Blanca island there is a reef named Blanca, awash at times, and extending about i mile westward of the island.
The harbor of Chimbote is the northern portion of Ferrol bay, between Blanca island and the mainland to the eastward. Chimbote is an important and rising town, connected by rail way with Huaras, about 100 miles distant.
Fassages to Ferrol bay. — ^There are three passages to the bay available for vessels. The main passage, between Blanca island and Korth Ferrol islet, is IJ miles wide, and free from dangers. The pas- sage between North and Middle Ferrol islets is about i mile wide, with plenty of water, and is used by the steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, but it is not deemed advisable for sailing vessels to use it on account of the swell. The northern passage, between Blanca rocks and Chimbote point, is considered safe for a steamer. The passage between Blanca rocks and Blanca island, between Middle and South Ferrol islets, and between South Ferrol islet and the main- land, should not be used by any class of vessels.
368 COAST OF PERU.
Directions. — ^The appearance of land on entering any of these pas- sages is that of a low sandy beach with high hills and mountains rising in its rear. That portion of the bay north of Middle Ferrol islet, and which would be used by vessels bound to Ghimbote, is perfectly free from rocks and shoals. It is sandy bottom on the eastern side of the bay, but on the western, toward Blanca and at the anchorage, it is partly muddy, with good holding ground.
During the full and change of the moon a swell sets in through the main passage, making it rough at the mole for landing, but never dan- gerous to vessels at anchor. Heavy draft vessels can not lie close enough to obtain shelter from Blanca island, but it is smooth in the southern part of the bay at such times.
Vessels bound to Chimbote, after passing through Main or Ferrol passages, should steer direct for the mole, and anchor at a sh(H:t dis- tance from it, in 4:J or 5 fathoms.
As the prevailing winds and currents are from the southward, ves- sels bound to Chimbote from distant ports should make the land well to the southward of the port, and follow the shore along until opposite the passages, taking care under no circumstances to fall to leeward for with a head wind and current they will be much delayed in beating up.
A mole, 200 feet long, has been constructed, and has the necessary derricks for discharging heavy weights. The prevailing winds come through the main passage in line with the mole, and during the full and change of moon, when the swell is greatest, it will sometimes be difficult to land cargo. The landing place is at the outer end.
Supplies. — Fresh beef and mutton, if ordered, might be obtained. Ballast for vessels can be delivered alongside, or it could be obtained by anchoring near the north end of Blanca island, and loading with the crew.
Mails and telegraph. — The mail is received &om Oallao by steamer weekly, and mails are sent from Santa, which is 10 miles from Chim- bote. The steamers do not touch at Chimbote on their return to Callao. There is a line of telegraph between Santa and Lima.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Ferrol bay at 6h. 30m. ; springs rise 2 feet.
Santa island, at 3^ miles NW. from Chimbote point, is about 1^ miles in length N. by W. and S. by E. It is white colored and has two sharp-pointed rocks, 20 feet above the sea, about ^ mile outside.
Coisca bay. — Northward of Ferrol bay the coast is formed by the Chimbote mountains, with a precipitous shore, without dangers, fol- lowed by a bay with a low beach, named Coisca, inside Santa island, having an anchorage in the SB. part in 5 or 6 fathoms 400 yards off * shore, opposite the fishing village. The place is exposed to a heavy swell, which makes landing difficult. In the north part of the bay is an islet without dangers around it. The valley of Santa commences here, and its cultivation can be seen from sea.
Santa bay, although small, is a tolerable port. The soundings are
SANTA RIVER — CHAO RIVER. 369
regalar from some distance oatside, and vessels may anchor anywhere in a moderate depth of water, but "exposed to the swell.
Santa head makes as an island. Olf the small rocky point which pro^ jects into the sea lies a rock, about 200 yards distant, on which the sea does not always break. Attention is therefore necessary when rounding this point.
The best anchorage is in 4 or 6 fathoms, with the NW. extremity of the head bearing S. 55o W. (S. 46o W. mag.), distant from 600 to 800 yards. Fresh provisions and vegetables may be obtained on moderate terms, but water is expensive.
Santa river. — The town of Santa stands about 2 miles east of the anchorage, and the mouth of the Santa river is 1^ miles north of it. This is one of the largest and most rapid rivers on the coast of Peru; but at its mouth it branches off and becomes shallow, with only suffi- cient strength to make a narrow outlet through the sandy beach, on which there is such a heavy and dangerous surf that no boat could enter the river with any degree of safety.
This part of the coast may be known by the wide spreading valley through which this river runs, bounded on each side by ranges of sharp- topped hills, and in approaching, Santa island will be plainly seen, as well as Santa head, as also by Gorcovado island.
Corcovado island, small but very white, lies 3 miles off the coast, 3J miles northwestward of Santa bay. There are 9 fathoms inside the island, and at about J mile "N. 35^ W. (N. 44° W. mag.) of it there is a cluster of rocks on which the sea generally breaks.
Viuda island, 3 miles N. by W. of Corcovado, is little smaller. At 3^ miles 'N. 44© W. (N. 53° W. mag.) of Yiuda island, and nearly 2 miles off shore, there is a low rock, against which the sea always breaks. There are 9 fathoms close outside the rock, and 8 fathoms midway between it and Viuda island.
Chao point. — From Santa bay to Chao point the coast trends in a northwesterly direction 15 miles and is low, with a sandy beach, and moderately high lands a few miles inshore. The same character of shore continues through some shallow bays as far as the hill of Guanape, 20 miles farther NW., which is rather sharp at its summit, and when seen from the southward it appears like an island. It is about 700 feet high.
Chao islands. — Off Ghao point, at a distance of If miles, are the Ghao islands. The southernmost and largest is one mile in circumfer- ence, and quite white. There are regular soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms at one mile outside of them. The channel between Ghao island and the shore is clear and deep. A group of rocks on which the sea always breaks lies 2 miles NW. J N. of the islands.
Chao river, in the depth of the bight, 7 miles north of Ghao point, has anchorage off it for coasters. There is also anchorage in Goscomba cove, 2^ miles S. by E. of the river, but it is bad and exposed* 1943— No. 89 ^24
370 COAST OP PERU.
Vim river. — ^From Ohao river the coast extends for 11^ miles in a northwesterly direction to Yira river; which contains bat little water and empties into the sea on an inaccessible beach.
Oaaiiape islands, lying 16 miles !NW. from Ohao point, consists of two inlands, with some islets and rocks lying abont them. The southern one, 492 feet above the sea, is the highest and most conspicuous. There is a safe passage between them and the shore, from which they are distant about 6 miles.
During night or fog careful allowance should be made for the cur- rent, as the Guanape islands maybe passed without being seen.
The northern island is slightly larger than the southern. The best anchorage is ^ mile off its NE. extremity in 11 fathoms, sand and mud.
O-oddard shoaL — ^The large rocks NW. of North island are named Sea Lion rocks; vessel^ should not pass between these and the island. A danger named Goddard shoal lies 200 yards JS. 21© W. (N. 30° W. mag.) from Goddard islet; this shoal has only 3 feet water on it, and should be avoided by boats, as the sea rises or breaks over it suddenly, and when least expected.
Onafiape cove. — On the north side of GualLape hill is a small cove, with tolerable landing just inside the rock that lies off the point. The best anchorage is i mile off shore. There is generally a heavy swell, but large quantities of cotton and firewood are shipped.
The coast from Guanape cove continues to be a sandy beach with regular soundings^ in 7 to 10 fathoms 2 miles off shore, and ranges of high, sharp-topped hills, between 4,000 and 5,000 feet high, about 6 miles inland, till interrupted by the little hill of Oarretas, which stands on the beach, with Garita hill 3,720 feet above the sea, overlooking it.
Salaverry, in latitude 8^ 14' S., has risen to some importance since the building of the railway to Trujillo, and thence through the fertile val- leys of Ohicama and Ohimu, terminating at Ascope. Sugar is grown in the above-mentioned valleys, and forms the principal article of export. There is telegraphic communication with lama, and mails for Europe are sent through Oallao.
Approaching the land from the southward, It is advisable to make the Guanape islands, after passing which the coast may be closed to a depth of 8 fathoms; the lead is of great use upon this gradually shoal- ing coast, for the fogs frequently last for days. Oare must be taken not to be carried to the N W. of the i)ort by the current, or many days will be lost in beating up only a few miles.
Oarretas hill, 350 feet high, rises abruptly from the sea; it has a signal staff upon the summit.
Garita hill, with its sharp peaks, is most conspicuous, and is in line with Oarretas hill when bearing K. 35o E. (N. 26© B. mag.).
When approaching from the northward, Huanchaco peak and mount Oampana, 3,450 feet high, are good marks, and when closer in the town of Trujillo is seen; also a large white house about a mile inland 4 miles north of Salaverry.
SAL AVERRY — HUANCH AGO. 371
Anchorage. — The best anchorage is in 6 to 7 fathoms, sand and mnd, with Carretas hill between the bearings of S. 81o E. (east mag.) and N. 770 E. (K 680 E. mag.)? I ^ail^ off shore. Vessels lie at single anchor, and should be prepared for slipping.
It is advisable not to anchor nearer to the shore than ^ mile, for an inshore current occasionally sets to the southward against the wind, especially about springtides, causing vessels to ride uneasily.
Landing. — ^The iron pier has been largely destroyed by heavy seas, and it is no longer possible to use the pier for a landing. Passengers and freight must land from launches on the beach. Landing is not possible with a heavy sea, which causes at times delay for a day or two.
Light. — A fixed white light is shown on the slope of Carretas hill at Salaverry point. It is visible 4 miles.
Supplies. — Fresh meat, vegetables, and fi'uit can be obtained in small quantities. Ships' provisions are to be had occasionally at high prices. Eepairs on a limited scale can be effected.
Water is brought by rail from Trujillo, and is expensive. Notice must be given if any large quantity is required.
Trtgillo is 7 J miles northward of Salaverry, Here commenced the rich valley of Chimu, in which Pizarro built the city. At 6 miles far- ther NW. we find the village and road of Huanchaco. Eice and sugar are the principal productions of the valley, and it is for those articles and spice and for the supply of Trujillo that vessels call at Salaverry.
The United States is represented by a consular agent.
Huaman cove. — One mile north of the Moche river and in front of the city of Trujillo is a small village near the shore called Huaman. The* anchorage is bad in from 5 to 6 fathoms i mile from land. It is unsheltered and exposed to heavy swell.
Huanchaco road is westward of the point of the same name. A few rocks extending from the point shelter the beach in a slight degree, but afford no protection to shipping. The village is under the cliff and not distinguishable until to the northward of the point; but the church, which is on the rising ground, shows very distinctly, and is a good guide when near the coast.
A reef consisting of detached pinnacles, with depth of 10 to 16 feet on them at low water, 600 yards long !NE. and SW. and 350 yards across, lies with Huanchaco church bearing about N. 29° E. (N. 20° E. mag.), distant 1^% miles from its SW. extreme, close outside which the depth is 7 fathoms.
The usual anchorage is with the church bearing about S. 81^ E. (east mag.), distant IJ miles from the shore, in 7 fathoms, dark sand and mud. Vessels often have to weigh or slip and stand off, owing to the heavy swell that sets in; it is also cdstomary to sight the anchor once in twenty-four hours, to prevent its being imbedded so firmly as to require much time to weigh it when required.
A vessel should use a light anchor and a long scope of cable. Many anchors have been lost here.
372 COAST OP PERU.
There is a small pier extending from Huanchaco village, bat the landing is frequently bad, and can not be effected in ships' boats unless the weather be very fine; but there are launches constructed for the purpose, manned by Indians of the village, who are skillful in theur management. They come off on every arrival when the surf admits, and will land passengers safely, for which they charge $6. No more is charged for a cargo of goods, the risk of the surf being that for which you pay. Fresh provisions may be had from Trujillo, but the surf renders watering nearly impracticable.
Chicama river. — North of Huanchaco tor a few miles the coast is formed of very steep earth cliffs so near the seashore that there is very little beach ; low, sandy soil with bushes on it then commences, and continues to Malabrigo road.
There is a heavy surf, with regular soundings in 8 to 10 fathoms, 3 miles distant; 14 miles from Huanchaco is the mouth of Chicama river, which dries up during the latter months of the year.
Brigo cove. — About 3 miles north of Chicama valley is Brujo or San Bai tolome cove. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms one mile from land; ^t is very bad, being full of loose rocks, and is without shelter. The heavy cross sea which breaks upon the shore renders landing in ships' boats impossible.
Malabrigo road is just to the northward of Malabrigo point and 30 miles NW. of Huanchaco. The coast is cliffy for a few miles to the northward of Huanchaco; low, sandy soil with bushes on it then commences, and continues to Malabrigo road.
Malabrigo hill, 790 feet high, rises from the point, and at a distance appears like an island. This anchorage, though badly sheltered, ^is considerably preferable to Huanchaco.
^ The whole road of Malabrigo is very shallow. From noon to sunset a fresh breeze, accompanied by strong squalls, is felt at the anchorage, nor is it advisable when rounding the point and entering the bay to carry topsails. A heavy swell is frequently experienced; vessels will be obliged to moor with two anchors or run to sea for one or two-days to avoid accidents.
There is telegraphic communication with the capital.
Garcia yoao; in Malabrigo road, is the shoalest part of a rocky patch, consisting of pinnacles with sand between. The least water found was 12 feet, with 14 and 18 feet on other parts of the shoal. It is little more than J mile from shore, with Observation point (which may be known by Black rocks off it) bearing S. 32° W. (S. 23© W. mag.) distant 1,800 yards.
Anchorage. — ^Vessels may anchor in Malabrigo road in 4 fathoms, sand, with the center of the village bearing S. 59° E. (S. 68^ E. mag.), distant about f mile, and not bringing Observation point to bear west- ward of S. 6° W. (S. 30 E. mag.) to avoid the above rocky ground.
Rocks. — ^The following rocks have been reported as lying in the entrance to Malabrigo road: A rock with 18 feet water over it and 5
MAC AVI ISLANDS — ^PACASMAYO ROADS. 373
fathoms close-to lies with Malabrigo point bearing S. 17^ W. (S. 8^ W. mag.) and Eanch S. 51© E. (S. 60o E. mag.)
A small patch with a depth of 18 feet over it in a position with Malabrigo point bearing S. 29o W. (S. 20o W. mag.) distant about 1-^ miles. It is possible that these rocks are the same.
Landing is bad, but the fishermen have what, they call caballitos, bunches of reed tied together, and turned up at the bow like a balsa of Chile, but much higher. They are so light that they are thrown from the top of the surf to the beach, when the people jump off and carry them to the huts. It seems that each different bay or road has its own peculiarly constructed caballito, adapted to the surf which it has to go through.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Malabrigo road at 6h.; springs rise 2 feet.
Macavi islands. — These two islands lie 6 miles SSW. from Malabrigo point, with a safe passage of 10 fathoms inside them. The northern or smaller island is the higher. The channel between is about 40 yards wide, but only fit for boats in fine weather, as with the least swell the sea breaks in this passage and renders it dangerous. An iron suspen- sion bridge joins these islands. The guano deposits are exhausted.
The north island is about 100 feet high. The best anchorage is off the NE. part of the island in 9 to 18 fathoms, sand, 100 yards from the north point, on account of the heavy swell from the South and SW. There are no dangers around this island. From 11 to 20 fathoms are found 300 yards off* shore.
There is neither anchorage nor shelter near the southern island.
Arcana (Puemac) point, 12J miles north of Malabrigo, projects but little and should not be passed closer than one mile, as rocks and foul ground extend from it.
Puemac cove lies to leeward of Arcana point. It. has anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms, 600 yards from land, in front of the fishermen's village on the southern side. The anchorage is tolerably good, and although there is a cross sea, landing on the beach is nevertheless practicable.
Pacasmayo point; 7 miles distant from Arcana point, can be clearly distinguished from the vicinity. The coast between the two points is a low sandy beach, on which a heavy surf beats.
Pacasmayo roads is just north of Pacasmayo point and extends eastwardly lor 2J miles.
There is a pier about 1,000 yards long, including the head, 330 feet by 150 feet wide, extending west from the north side of Pacasmayo river. There are cranes capable of lifting 10 tons on the pier and a depth of 4J fathoms at its outer end.
A railway connects the port with Guadalupe and other places, and the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers call regularly. There is telegraphic communication with the principal places in the Eepublic.
The chief exports are sugar and rice.
374 COAST OF PEBU.
Lights. — OrdiDarily a fixed white light is sbowB, but when the mail steamer is expected, two lights placed horizontally are exhibited from a flagstaff at the extremity of the pier. One light is fixed red, the other fixed white, elevated 65 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 3 miles.
Anchorage. — Ps^casmayo is a tolerably good roadstead, under a pro- jecting sandy point, with a flat extending off it to the distance of 4 mile.
Snpplies. — ^Fresh provisions may be obtained from San Pedro, about 6 miles inland. Wood and water may be had at the village on the beach, which is principally inhabited by Indians employed by the merchants of San Pedro.
Caution. — ^There are several shoal heads with about 22 feet water, and 4 to 5 fathoms close around at 600 to 1,000 yards from the pier head, with the lighthouse bearing from N. 69^ B. (N. 60° E. mag) to S. 51o E. (S. 60O E. mag.). Vessels of heavy draft should not have Pacasmayo point bearing southward of 8. 4P W. (8. 6° E. mag.).
Directions. — When coming from the southward or westward, Macavi island should be made or Malabrigo hill will be seen like an island sloping gradually on each side; and a little to the northward mount Arcana over Arcana point, rugged, with sharp peaks. As the vessel approaches, low, yellow cliffs will appear (those north of the road the highest), on the summit of which, on the north side of the point, there is a dark, square building that shows very distinctly.
Jequetepeque river empties 3 miles north of Pacasmayo, but is dry from May to December. The cultivated land extends to the shore and is seen from the sea. IS'orth and south of the valley are some huts inhabited by flshermen, or occupied by families from the interior during the bathing season.
Zana point, 15 miles northward of Pacasmayo point, projects con- siderably, and can be seen clearly from Pacasmayo. Several rocks lie off the point, and no vessel should pass within a distance of 1^ miles from it.
Antarctique rock, having 16 feet on it, with from 5 to 7 fathoms close westward, lies with Zana point bearing S. 71° E. (S. 80° E. mag.), distant 1,160 yards. The wreck of the Antarctique^ which struck upon this rock in 1882, lies in 7^ fathoms, with Zana point bearing N. 83^ E. (N. 740 E. mag.), distant 1,400 yards.
Cherrepe cove is one mile l^E. of Zana point. Coasting craft anchor in from 5 to 6 fathoms, 600 yards off shore, but the swell is gen- erally heavy and landing in boats often impracticable. Sugar is the principal shipment from this cove.
Frogreso cove, 7 miles NNW. of Cherrepe, is used for exportation of wood and other products of the neighboring places, but is frequented only by vessels chartered for this purpose. It has no resources. The anchorage is without shelter, one mile off shore, the swell heavy, and the beach.only accessible by native craft during fine weather.
ETEN HEAD — LAMBAY^QUE ROAD. 875
Et^i head. — From Pacasmayo road the coast trends northwesterly, and continues low, with broken cliffs, for a distance of 33 miles to Eten head, over which is a double hill (the southern one the higher) with a steep cliff facing the sea. The north side of this cliff is white and shows conspicuously.
There is an iron pier, 878 yards long and 32 feet wide, extending from the shore beyond the broken water, where lighters and boats are easily laden. From the pier a railway runs through Monsefu, Ghiclayo, Lam- bay eque, and Ferrenafe, the latter place distant 13 miles. There is telegraphic communication with the principal towns of the Eepublic.
Light. — From a flagstaff at the extremity of the pier a fixed white light is exhibited at an elevation of (jQ feet, which in clear weather is visible from a distance of 3 miles.
Anchorage. — The usual anchorage off Eten head is in 5 to 6 fathoms, good holding ground, IJ miles northwestward of the head, and f mile off shore. In this berth the lighters can conveniently lay off to ships.
A flagstaff fixed on a white pyramid serves at present as a guide to those not acquainted with this part of the coast.
Supplies. — Fresh provisions and water can be obtained, the latter from a pipe on the pier.
The coast north of Eten head is low and sandy and fiiuged with breakers one mile off shore, the noise of which is sometimes heard 8 miles.
Four miles to the northward of Eten head on the beach is the village of Santa Eosa, the residence of fishermen and a bathing resort for the inhabitants of Ghiclayo. The beach is inaccessible, landing in launches or boats being impracticable.
Pimentel road is about 9 miles KNW. of Eten head. The beach is low, and forms a plateau of little depth, on which the sea breaks, mak- ing the anchorage very uncomfortable. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms li miles off shore, with the flagstaff of the captain's house bearing K. 720 B. (N. 63° B. mag.), but it is without shelter and exposed to the constant and heavy swell from the SW. In landing, ships' boats should not be used.
There are no resources of any kind excepting water, obtained from a small rivulet which empties into the sea. The bottom here, as well as at Lambayeque road, consists entirely of moving sand, which prevents the construction of any mole.
Lambayeque road, 14 miles "NJ^W. of Eten head, is one of theVorst anchorages on the coast of Peru. There is a small village on the rising ground, with a white church, off which vessels anchor in 6 fathoms, with the church spire bearing InT. 89° E. (N, 80° B. mag.), IJ miles from the shore. The bottom is hard sand and bad holding ground; it is always necessary to have two anchors ready, for the heavy swell that sets on this beach renders it almost impossible to bring up with one, particularly after the sea breeze sets in.
376 COAST OF PERtt.
A shoal with 19 feet of water on it is reported as lying about 4 miles S. 680 W. (S. 590 W. mag.) from the town of Lambayeqne.
Eice is the chief commodity, but since the building of the pier at Eten head, ships rarely anchor here. The only method of discharging or taking in a cargo is by means of the balsa of this country. It sel- dom happens that any damage is sustained by their peculiar mode of proceeding. Supplies of fresh provisions, fruit, and vegetables maybe obtained, but cieither wood nor water.
Lobos de Afuera or isla Alta are a small group of islands, and lie about 50 miles west of Eten head,* they consist of two principal islands, with a channel 40 yards wide between them, with 4 fathoms in it. They are about 100 feet high, 2J miles in extent north and south, of a mixed brown and white color, and may be seen several miles.
Great care should be used when approaching these islands from the southward, as the currents near them are strong and the islands are generally obscured by fog in the early morning.
They are quite barren and afford no water. The guanOyWith which the islands are more or less covered, is not so good in quality nor so plentiful as that formerly found on the Ohincha islands.
A governor and a small guard reside on the western island, but there are no supplies of any kind to be obtained.
Anchorage. — There is a cove on the north side formed by the two principal islands, though with deep water and rocky bottomj within this cove there are some little nooks in which a small vessel might careen without being much interrupted by the swell.
When making for the anchorage in the NW. bay care must be taken to avoid a rock named Baja de el Chile (Gamarra shoal), in the center of the entrance, a little within the line of the points. A boat should be anchored on the rock.
Eiestra rock, with a depth of 8 feet over it, lies on a line joining the north points of the two principal islands, or with Punta de Yiejas (the north point on the 8W. island) bearing 8. 40o W. (S. 31o W. mag.), distant 700 yards.
The bay on the SE. side is exposed to the prevailing wind, but is ijot considered dangerous. The best anchorage is well up at the head of the cove in from 8 to 20 fathoms.
Puerto Grande, on the east side of the principal northern island, also has fair anchorage for all kinds of vessels a short distance from land in 16 fathoms, with sandy bottom. There is an abundance of good fish around these islands.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at 4h; springs rise 6 J feet, neaps 5J feet.
Lobos de Tierra island or isla Baja, about 28 miles K by W. of Lobos de Afuera, is nearly 6 miles long north and south and 2 miles broad; the south end, from which shoal water extends nearly J mile, is 295 feet high and the north end 100 feet high; there are depths of 5
LOBOS DE TIERRA — ^AGUJA POINT. 377
and 9 fathoms within 200 yards of the NE. extreme, with apparently no outlying dangers.
Rock. — The ship Valdiria in 1893 touched a rock, with a depth of 17 feet on it and 4J fathoms around, lying near the NE. shore of Lobos de Tierra, in a position with the extreme NE. point of that island bearing K 150 E. (N. 60 E. mag.), distant J mile.
Piers. — ^The northern pier of Lobos de Tierra is at the small point 200 yards northwestward of the position of the above rock and the southern pier at the middle of the point at the south end of Juanchu- quita bay.
Anchorages. — Juanchuquita bay, on the NE. side of Lobos de Tierra, affords anchorage in from 6 to 10 fathoms about J mile from the shore; Oanevaro bay, on the west side, in from 10 to 18 fathoms; Vivero bay, on the K W. side, in about 7 fathoms, with the house on the south point bearing S. 2° E. (S. 11° E. mag.). The latter is said to afford the best anchorage on the west side of the island, and is the residence of the Government officials. A 12-foot shoal, position doubtful, is shown on the chart almost in the center of this bay.
Fair anchorage has been found just inside and north of the SE. point of Lobos de Tierra; also good lauding on a sandy beach inside the reef, where there, is a small fishing establishment.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at 4h. 12m. ; springs rise 5J feet, neaps 4J feet.
Currents.— In navigating in the neighborhood of these islands, and especially off Aguja point, great attention must be paid to the longi- tude, as the currents seem to be both irregular and strong. Vessels have been set as much as 36 miles to the westward of their course in twenty-four hours, and at other times as much to the eastward: As a general rule, after a strong breeze from the southward a westerly set may be expected, and also a set off the land when passing from Aguja point to the northward.
Agiqa point. — From Lambayeque road the coast continues low and sandy for 75 miles NW. by W., when an extensive range of table-land of considerable height, with broken rocky points, commences. The coast then trends "HW. for 10 miles to the low sandy tongue named False point, and thence 5 miles north to Aguja point. This point is long and level, terminating in a steep bluff, and has a needle-shaped rock a short distance off it, with several detached rocks round the point.
Danger. — About one mile west of Aguja point is a rock just above water and steep-to. It is so small that it would not be seen at night or in thick weather, so that vessels should give it a wide berth when rounding the point.
(H. O. Chart No. 1177.)
Coast. — At 3J miles NKE. of Aguja point is l^onura point, and 5 miles farther in a NE. direction, is Pizura point, the south point of the
378 COAOT OF PEBU.
bay of Sechnra. Between Aguja and Pizura points there are two small bays, where anchorage might be obtained if required. The land about this part of the coast is much higher, and has deeper water off it than either to the north or south. It may be known by its regularity, and table- topped appearance.
Sechura bay is 36 miles wide from Pizura point on the south to Foca point on the north, and 15 miles deep. On the SB. side the coast shows low sand hills, but as it curves round to the northward it becomes cliffy and considerably higher.
La Salina is in the SE. part of Sechura bay, where a few huts will be seen and at times salt heaps gathered for export. Anchorage may be obtained in 5 to 7 fathoms at 3 miles off shore, and large vessels should not go nearer, as an extensive flat extends nearly that distance.
Vessels bound to La Salina to load with salt should near the coast to windward, and after doubling Pizura point the southern shore of the bay may be. approached.
Piura river. — Near the center of Sechura bay is the entrance to Piura river, on the banks of which, 4 miles inland, is the town of Sechura, inhabited chiefly by Indians. Salt is exported from this river, and is taken over the bar in balsas.
This place may easily be distinguished by Sechura church, which has two high steeples, and shows conspicuously above the surrounding sand hills. One of these steeples has a considerable inclination to the northward, which at a distance gives it more the appearance of a tree than of a stone building.
There is anchorage anywhere off Piura river in 12 to 5 fathoms, coarse sand, the latter depth being more than a mile from the shore. The holding ground is good, but the anchorage is exposed to strong winds and a swell that breaks on the beach. Landing in boats is prac- ticable, but care and skill are required.
The United States is represented by a consular agent.
Foca point — From Piura river the coast trends 1^ W. for 28 miles to Foca point. Foca island, of moderate height, lies nearly one mile off Foca point, the passage inside it being obstructed by rocks.
Saddle or SiUa de Paita — ^From Foca point the coast is clifff, about 20 feet high, and continues so to Paita point, which is 9 miles NKE. Between these points, and at 1^ miles inland from the coast, is the Saddle of Paita, 1,300 feet high, which is a peculiar range of 3 insulated hills, varying in color from bright yellow to black, according to the position of the observer and the sun; only from the KE. they show the Saddle. They are an excellent landmark, and the port of Paita may readily be found by knowing that they are nearly on the meridian of the town, and 6^ miles south of it.
Rocky point. — At 6 miles north of Foca point, Eocky point projects westward, surrounded by rocks and shoals for a distance of ^ mile to the northwestward. Vessels passing here during the night should be
PORT PAITA. 379
careful not to mistake Eocky i)oint for Foca island, as they resemble each other.
Port Faita is the best open port, on the coast. A considerable trade was formerly carried on, vessels of all nations touching here for cargoes. The place is considered extremely healthy.
There are several moles for landing and loading cargo at this port.
The railway extends from Paita to Sulland, and thence southward to Piura, a distance of about 34 miles. The port is also in telegraphic communication with Oallao and Valparaiso.
The town is built on the slope and at the foot of the hill on the SE. side of the bay. At a distance it is scarcely visible, the houses being of the same color with the surrounding cliff. It is the seaport of the province of Piura. The city of San Miguel de Piura stands on the bank of the Piura river, in an easterly direction from Paita and about 30 miles distant. The population of Paita is about 2,000.
The United States is represented by a consular agents
Supplies. — Fresh provisions piay be had at Paita on reasonable terms, but neither wood nor water, except at a high price. The water is brought to the town daily by railway from a distance. No coal or ship's supplies nearer than Oallao.
Port charges. — ^Tonnage dues are 20 cents and light dues 1^ cents per ton.
Light. — On the customhouse mole a fixed red light is exhibited at an elevation of 26 feet above high water. Kot easily distinguished from the lights in the town.
Communication. — The Pacific Steam N"avigation Company and the Gentral and South American steamers alternate in calling at Paita, there being a north-bound and south-bound steamer each week.
Wrecks. — A wreck, with one mast showing above water, lies 350 yards K. 34© E. (N. 26° E. mag.) from Telegraph point.
Part of an old wreck lies in the SW. part of the port, with the cus- tomhouse mole bearinjg about S. 45o W. (S. 37° W. mag.), distant 600 yards.
Position. — ^The west tower of the cathedral is considered to be in lati- tude 6o 5' 2'' S., longitude 81Q 7' 17" W.
Boat landing. — The landings are on the east side of the mole about halfway of its length ; plenty of water at all stages of the tide for ship's boats.
The climate is hot, rain is almost unknown, and all buildings are constructed very lightly.
Directions. — When running for Port Paita with a strong trade wind, care should be taken to have the vessel under snug canvas before haul- ing around Paita point, as heavy squalls occasionally blow off the land. There is no danger in entering. After rounding Paita point, which has a signal station on its ridge, Tierra Golorada bay, which is rocky, will open. This must be passed, as the true bay (the beach of which is
380 COAST OF PERU.
sandy) is around Telegraph point, the eastern point of Tierra Golorada bay and western point of Port Paita. Telegraph })oint ought not to^ be hugged closely, for there are some rocks at the distance of 200 yards, and the wind often baffles.
At night. — When leaving Paita for the southward at nighttime, take care not to mistake Rocky point for Foca island, as they are then much alike, the black rocks of the point, relieved by the sandy bays on each side, showii^g at that time precisely like an island, and should the course be then altered for Aguja point it would most likely lead among the rocks and foul ground to the northward of the island before the mistake is found out.
Anchorage. — After having passed Telegraph point and opened the town of Paita, stand in toward its center, and anchor in 10 to 7 fathoms, mud, tough holding ground; but do not shoal to less than 6 fathoms, as the bank stretches off some distance from the town, toward which the water shoals suddenly.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Paita at 3h. 20m. ; rise 3 feet; springtides are reported to rise 10 feet.
Chira river. — At 9 J miles north of Paita point the Chira river enters the sea. During the summer there is plenty of water; occasionally small boats or balsas can cross the bar. The water is shoal some dis- tance to seaward, the depth of 8 fathoms being 2 miles off shore; the beach is generally inaccessible.
Farinas point, 27 miles NNW. from Paita point, is the western extremity of the continent of South America. The point rises to a bluff 80 feet high, and a reef, on which the sea breaks, extends ^ mile on its western side. About J mile NW. of this reef there is a sunken rock on which the sea breaks in heavy weather. Between Parinas point and Paita the coast is low and sandy, with table-land of a moderate height at a short distance from the beach.
Amotape or Brea mountains. — At about 16 miles east of Parinas point, and thence extending 40 miles to the ^E., is the range named Amotape or Brea mountains, rising from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in height.
Talara point. — From Parinas point the coast trends to the north- ward, becoming higher and more cliffy to Talara point, 12 miles distant. This is a double point, the southern part of which is cliffy, about 80 feet high, with a small black rock lying off it; the northerly part is much lower, and has a few breakers near it. Burro rock, on which the sea at times breaks, is abopt IJ miles southward of Talara point. On the northern side of this point there is a shallow bay, in the bight of which the high, cliffy coast again commences, and continues for 11 miles to cape Blanco.
Talara bay, about 7 miles north of Parinas point, is open to the NW., about 400 yards in width within the 5-fathom line, with a length of about 600 yards, and affords anchorage in 10 to 20 fathoms water. It is formed by a projecting headland about 110 feet in height, inside of which is a flat shore*
TALARA BAY — CAPE BLANCO. 381
On the east and soutlx sides of the bay banks extend some distance from the shore, while the west side is tolerably steep. Abreast Eocky point, the north extreme of the headland which forms the west side of the bay, there is a detached ledge of rocks, with shoal water extending some distance northward.
On either side of the entrance there is a buoy marking the 6-fathom line of soundings, but owing to the shifting nature of the bottom the depths are very variable, and neither the buoys nor the edges of the banks can be relied on.
There are three mooring buoys in the bay for large vessels, and a wharf, which will accommodate vessels of 26 to 30 feet draft alongside.
Talara has a population (1892) of 400, mostly employed at the petro- leum works. The petroleum wells are at Negrito, on the north side of Pariiias point, and the oil is brought to Talara by a pipe, where it is refined and shipped.
Supplies. — Fresh beef of good quality and soft bread can be obtained from the company, but no vegetables. A good supply of fresh water can also be obtained from a pipe on the large pier^ but it is scarcely fit for drinking.
Mails. — There is no regular steam communication, but mails are con- veyed to and from Paita by sailing boats.
Light. — From a lighthouse 70 feet high, painted in red and white bands, on the summit of the west point, a fixed white light is exhibited at an elevation of 160 feet above the sea, visible in clear weather from a distance of 13 miles.
A white light is also shown from a tower 150 feet high at the head of the bay, to guide vessels entering during the night. The lights are private, and may not, therefore, always be relied upon.
Tides. ~ It is high water, full and change, in Talara bay at 3h.^ rise and fall about 3 feet.
Directions. — The entrance to Talara bay is not easily distinguished from seaward ; but as there are no known dangers in the ofBng the land can be approached until the high beacon on the summit of the west point is seen. Proceeding into the bay, a S. 37° E. (S. 45^ E. mag.) course should be steered, passing midway between the buoys in the entrance; and when the beacon on the south beach bears S. 8^ W. (South mag.), steer for it on that bearing until the high beacon bears S. 760 W. (S. 680 W. mag.). A vessel will then Be in a good berth, and may anchor in about 16 fathoms.
Cape Blanco, 24 miles north of Parinas point, is high, and slopes gradually toward the sea. Near its extremity there are two sharp hillocks, and midway between them and the commencement of the table-land is another rise with a sharp top. There are some rocks above water about J mile off the cape, but no danger exists beyond that distance.
Mount OrganoSi about 6 miles 'SB. of cape Blanco, near the coast^
382 COAST OF PBBU.
is a high cliff or mounts the western side of which resembles the pipes of an organ.
Mancora cove, 4 miles north of mount Organos, is to leeward of a small point, for which mount Organos is an excellent guide. There is considerable trade in wood between this place and Gallao, and orders to load must be obtained at Port Paita. Vessels anchor in 4 to 6 fathoms at 300 yards off shore, and load from balsas. Fo supplies can be obtained.
Sal point. — From cape Blanco the general trend of the coast is NE. in nearly a direct line to Malpelo point, which is Q6 miles distant. Sal point, 23 miles from cape Blanco, is a brown cliff 120 feet high. The coast between it and cape Blanco is a sandy beach, with high cliffs as far as the valley of Mancora, where it is low, with brushwood near the sea, the hills being a distant inland. Northward of Sal point the coast is cliffy to about midway between it and Picos point; it then becomes lower and similar to that of Mancora.
Picos point, at 19 miles from Sal point, is a sloping bluff, with a sandy beach, and has a similar point a little to the northeastward; behind there is a cluster of hills with sharp peaks 710 feet above the sea.
Boca de Pan covo, at 4| miles KE. of Picos point, affords anchor- age in 4 to 7 fathoms, close iushore, for vessels engaged in the coasting trade, consisting chiefly of carob wood.
Zorritos settlement and petroleum wells lie about 5 miles NE. of Boca de Pan cove. Good anchorage may be obtained in 3;^ fathoms 600 to 800 yards from the shore.
There are a number of wells, tanks, and houses quite near the beach which are plainly visible to passing vessels.
Light. — A natural gas jet is burned at night in front of the superin- tendent's house and is visible from 5 to 9 miles.
Malpaso cove, at 10 miles from Picos point, is small, but has good anchorage in 5 to 7 fathoms at 300 yards off shore. The head of the cove is between steep hills, on the top of which several houses can be seen from some distance seaward. Coal has been found at this place, but it has not been worked. Large quantities of mineral oil are taken from wells in the neighborhood of this cove.
Malpelo point, the south entrance point of the gulf of Guayaquil, may readily be known by the marked difference between it and the coast to the southward.* It is low and covered with bushes, and at a short distance inshore there is a clump of bushes higher and more con- spicuous than the rest, which shows plainly on approaching. A shoal extends 2 miles seaward of the point.
Tumbez bay. — This shallow bay is between Malpelo point and Payana point, 16 miles to the NE. Here, in the year 1527, the first Spanish colony in Peru was formed at a city named Tumbez.
Tuznbez river. — A new mouth has opened to Tumbez river in lati- tude 3^ 30^' S. The old mouth is now 3 miles farther east, the spit to
TUMBEZ RIVER. 383
seaward having extended. The bar in the new entrance (1894) may be easily passed at half tide in moderate weather by boats.
Abottt 2 miles up the river there is a village named Cockroach, and at 6 miles farther is Belvedere, where excellent river water can be obtained. Tumbez is about 11 miles by the river from Belvedere, but only 2J miles by road. Fresh meat and vegetables can beobtained and sent down to vessels at the anchorage.
The northern branch of the river is the boundary between the states of Peru and Ecuador.
Anchorage. — Vessels anchor anywhere off Malpelo point in 6 or 7 fathoms. The best anchorage is 3 miles eastward of the point in 5^ to 6 fathoms, with the entrance of Tumbez river bearing S. 3^ E. (S. ll^E. mag.), about one mile off shore.
Landing. — During spring tides the river has several mouths. Those nearest Malpelo point are sometimes dangerous, but the widest mouth opposite the anchorage is so safe that boats can pass through easily, and with a knowledge of the channel the town of Tumbez may be reached.
Caution. — ^There are sharks at the mouth of the river, and inside alligators abound. Mosquitoes are intolerable.
Fayana shoals extend 5^ miles to the 'NE. of Payana point, and are dry at low water to a distance of 2^ miles from shore. It is said that these shoals are constantly increasing.
Buoy. — ^A bell buoy is moored on the north part of the shoals.
CHAPTER VIII.
COAST OF ECUADOR-GULF OF GUAYAQUIL TO PORT TUMACO-THE GALiPAGOS, MALPELO, AND COCOS ISLANDS.
ECUADOR.
The Eepublic of Ecuador embraces that portion of western South America which reaches across the Andes from the Pacific into the basin of the Andeis under the equator. It is bounded on the south by Peru, and on the north by Colombia. The territory has an area of about 120,000 square miles, with a population of 1,270,000. The great features of Ecuador are given by the enormous mass of the Andes, which, rising near the Pacific coast, forms the high, cool table-land of Quito, along the edges of which the dome-shaped Chimborazo, 21,424 feet above the level of the sea, the Ilinissa, Pechiucha, Antisana, Gay- ambe, Cotopaxi, and other lofty mountains of the Andes rise in two parallel chains. Characteristic of the high plateau are the paromas or punas, covered with scanty sun-dried grass, but along the inner slope to the Amazon basin is covered with forests and enclosed savannahs.
Rivers. — The rivers of the steep slope of Ecuador to the Pacific are comparatively small and short. The Guayaquil, the most considerablCi is navigable for vessels drawing 19J feet as far as the city, 33 miles from the entrance. The inward slope is watered by some of the great feeders of the Amazon, the Japura, Putumayo, and Kapo being the largest.
Chief toixrns. — Quito, the capital of Ecuador, with a population of about 50,000, is situated on the table-laud at an elevation of 9,500 feet above the level of the sea, and commands splendid views of the snow- clad cones of the Andes. Cuenca, the capital of the southern province of Ecuador, is situated at an elevation of about 8,500 feet above the sea, and has a population of 20,000. Loja, near the southern boundary of Ecuador, is also an important town. Guayaquil is the chief port^ The town lies in the fertile valley of the Guayas, and has a population (1890) of 45,000. The houses are built entirely of bamboo cane, and are considered safer than stronger-built houses, as earthquakes, which are of frequent occurrence, cause little or no damage to such structures.
Productions. — The most important production of the extensive forests of Ecuador is the cinchona (quinine) tree. Its agricultursd products consist of cocoa, nuts, cotton, coffee, orchilla weed, yams, 384
CLIMATE WINDS CURRENTS. 385
tobacco, fruits, sarsaparilla, wheat, etc, Its minerals consist of! gold, quicksilver, lead,, irop, copper, and emeralds.
Institutions and. enterprises. — In Ecuador there are three banks of issue. Two of them are located at Quito, and the other bank of cir- culating issue, the Bank of Ecuador, is at Guayaquil.
Telegraph lines and cables. — There are two telegraph lines. One, completed in 1884, extends from Quito to Guayaquil, owned and to be operated by the National Government; the other, the Central and South American Telegraph Company, whose lines extend from Guaya- quil to the coast, where the line oonneots with the cable, The Central and South American Telegraph Company is incorporated under the laws of thellnited States, and is usually denominated a United States enterprise, though nearly all, if not quite, all, its stock is held by Englishmen, by whom it is managed. The charge betyreeii Guayaquil and liTew York is f 1.77 per word in United States currency.
Communication. — Many lines of steamers can at irregular intervals* The Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers, in connection with the Chilean line, constitute the regular weekly service between Valpa- raiso and Panama.. Two small steamers make bimonthly trips between. Guayaquil and Panama, stopping at intermediate poi:ts.
Port cbargea. — Harbor dues on vessels of under 500 tons re^ster, 2 cents per tonj over 500 tons, IJ cents per ton.
Tonnage dues, per ton, 50 cents^
Light due3, per ton, 37^ cents.
Whalers *and mail steamers are exempt from port charges. 'Climate.— The most remarkable features of the coast of Ecuador are the sudden changes in the aspect and climate of the country. Places separated but a few miles differ widely from each other.
At Guayaquil there are mangrove swamps and impenetrable thick- ets, at Santa Elena aridity «,nd a scanty vegetation, at Salango a moist atmosphere and a soil densely covered with plants, at Manta a desert, and in the bay of Atacama again thick forests and much rain.
Winds. — ^Along the whole coast the wind is generally from south to west all the year round, following in some measure the trend of the shores^ thus, southward of the equator there is more southing and westing in the wind, and northward the reverse. In the latter case the wind veers to the southward as a vessel leaves the coast. The exceptions to these rules are few and generally occur in the fine season.
Currents. — ^Within 60 miles of the land there is a constant current to the northward, of great assistance to vessels bound to Panama.
The waters of the South Pacific ocean form a current on the west coast of South America, which extends as a river of cooler water from the latitude of Chiloe to the equator, along which it- sets to the west- ward. From its becoming.more evident in the warmer latitude of Peru it has b^en denominated the Peruvian current. Its westerly set is felt on the coast between Arica and Pisco, especially to the southward of 1943^^0.8^ 26^
386 COAST OF ECUADOR.
the latter port. Its greatest force on the South American coast is between Paita and the Gal&pagos islands, where vessels have occa- sionally been drifted 50 miles to the NNW, in twenty-four hours.
Passages to and from O-uayaquil. — There is no difficulty in getting to the northward upon the west coast of South America, both wind and current being generally fair. Vessels bound to Guayaquil should make the land at Picos point, which is easily known by its sand dunes. A few miles farther north is the low wooded point of Malpelo. Vessels should pass about 5 miles to the southward of Santa Clara island.
On leaving Ouayaquil, if bound to Gallao, work close inshore to about the islands of Lobos de Afuera, Endeavor to be near the coast as soon as the sun has set, so that advantage may be taken of the land wind, which begins about that time. This will frequently enable a ship to hug the shore throughout the night, leaving her in a good situation for the first of the Seabreeze. After having passed the before-men- tioned islands it is advisable to work up on their meridian until the latitude of Gallao is approached ; then stand in, and if it be not fetched, work up alongshore as above directed, remembering that the wind hauls to the eastward on leaving the coast. Some vessels attempt this passage by standing off for several days, hoping to fetch in on the other taok, but this will generally be found impossible, owing to a northerly current.
Sailing vessels bound from Guayaquil to- Valparaiso should stretch out to sea, crossing the Peruvian current before passing the meridian of 920 W. From this they should push to the southward, not caring about being driven to the westward if southing can be made, as they will have no difficulty in making their easting on the parallel of Valparaiso.
(H. O. Charts Nos. 1391 and 1177.)
The gulf of Guayaquil, into which the river of the same name emp- ties itself, is the largest inlet on the west coast of South America north of Ghiloe island. The gulf extends inland upward of 50 miles, and is 18 miles wide at the entrance, between Payana point on the south and Puna island on the north. It is encumbered with extensive shoals, but with the assistance of a pilot vessels drawing 19 J feet may cross the bar north of Puna island at high water and proceed up the river to the city of Guayaquil, 80 miles from Amortajada island, at the entrance of the gulf, with tolerable facility. The southern shore of the gulf is low, thickly wooded, and fringed with shoals which extend about 3 miles from the coast. The northern or Puna island shore is also low and well wooded, but except at Salinas point the bank does not extend more than 1^ miles from the shore, and there is a range of hiUs named Zampo Palo about 4 miles inland.
Amortajada island, also called Santa Glara, is the best mark for making the gulf of Guayaquil, being high, remarkable, and lying near the center of the entrance, 14 miles from Payana point and 12 miles
GULP OP GUAYAQUIL. 387
SW. from Salinas point, the SW. extreme of Puna island. It is narrow and about IJ miles long, NB, by N. and S W. by S. A spit extends for nearly i mile off its NE. end, and the bottom is foul for about one mile in the direction of Puna. It was named ^^Amortajada or El Muerto" by the Spaniards from its resemblance to a gigantic shrouded corpse, which it assumes from many bearings, especially when the c^enter bears K 86° W. (8. 86o W. mag.).
Amortajada shoals. — ^At a distance of 2 miles in a SW. and one mile in a westerly direction from the south end of Amortajada island are the Amortajada shoals, which consist of rocky patches, some awash, others with 12 and 15 feet of water on them, with 4 to 6 fathoms among them, and 7 fathoms on their outer edge. Vessels approaching the island should keep the lead going and come no nearer than the depth of 12 fathoms.
Light. — The lighthouse on Amortajada or Santa Clara island is an octagonal tower painted white. It stands on the summit of the island, and exhibits, at an elevation of 256 feet above the sea, a fixed and flashing white light, showing a flash of four seconds, duration every twenty seconds, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 22 miles for the flash and 15 miles for the fixed light. In order to main- tain this light, sailing vessels entering the gulf of Guayaquil must pay a tax of 6^ cents per registered ton. Steamers are required to pay half that sum. The light is reported as irregular and sometimes not lighted ataU.
TajBUB, shoals extend 5^ miles KE. of Payana point, and dry at low water to a distance of 2^ mUes from the shore.
Buoy. — ^A bell buoy is moored on the north part of the Payana shoals.
Santa Rosa river. — ^Boca Jambeli, or mouth of Santa Itosa river, is 13 miles ElO). from the NE. extreme of the Payana shoals; there is 8 fathoms in the entrance, which is not quite 400 yards broad, between shoal patches of 16 and 18 feet. The river trends to the southward, with 6 and 7 fathoms in the channel as far as Machala creek, nearly 5 miles within the entrance, beyond which it was not examined. The town of Santa Bosa is 2 nules from a landing place at 20 miles up the river. Korthward of the entrance the soundings are irregular and the patches of shoal water more numerous. The land is low, and tends KE. by K., intersected by many creeks, for a distance of 35 miles, to Yalao Ohico, at the entrance of Moudragon channel.
Light. — ^From a square lighthouse on the west side of Boca Jambeli, an occasional fixed white light is exhibited, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles.
Puna island, 29 miles long NE. and SW., with a breadth of from 8 to 13 miles, occupies the northern part of the gulf of Guayaquil, and is separated from the main by the Morro channel.
At Puna the Guayaquil river commences^ and no vessel should attiempt its passage without a pilot.
388 COAST OP ECUADOR.
Salinas point, the S W. extreme of Pana island, is low and woody. Mad banks, dry at low water, extend 2 mUes on its western and neMrly.: one mile on its southern shore. It is shoal for over 4 miles .fiH>m the point toward Amortajada island and for 10 mUes along the wesitenL . coast of Puna island. This shoal off Salinas point is reported to be extending, and although well defined, should be given a. good bertbin rounding.
The south'bound steamers entering the river use the Korth channel, between Amortajada and Puna islands^ this chaanri is cleaurof dangCBS as far as known.
Ate&a point, the BE. extreme of Puna island, does not appear sandy ^ as its namo implies, but is wooded like the rest of the coast. It is 9 . miles eastward of Salinas point, the shore between being Mnged with shoals, which extend in some places about 2 miles from the land. About 2 miles west of the point is the entrance of a creek called Salinas river. At Arena point the difficulties of navigation may be said to commence.
Light— On Arena point stands a square tower, from whieh is exhib^ ited, at an elevation of 6^ feet above the sea, a revolving red light,tshow> ing a flash of sixteen seconds, eclipse forty 'four seconds, every minute. It should be visible 14 miles. This light is said to^ be- obscured ^i^dien bearing westward of N. 69^ W. (N. 77° W. mag.)
Mala hilL — From Arena point the coast trends N. by £>. 16 milea,- to the foot of Mala hill, which is useful as a leading mark, being doubler topped and visible 16 miles to the southward, making like amoderately high island. The coast of the gulf on the south side of Puna. i^nd is of a similar nature to the southern shore. Between Mala- hill and. the range of Zampa Palo the island is .nearly all m€U)grove:'Swain4i^ intersected by several inlets or creeks, of which .Puna Vie^a, 5 miles northward of Arena point, is the largest, and is said to nearly separate the island.
Espafiiola point, 3^ miles E. by K. from Mala hill, isairemarkaye clif^ point, and forms a useful leading mark to vessels .from thesouthri ward for clearing the Mala bank. To the westward is^thC' hcatset and • plantation of the English consul, and about f mili^ south. of ^the-.point- is a lO'foot patch, with 4^ fathoms close-to. Espanola point >shQnId.4)e^. given a wide berth, as the shoal is extending, from it^
Light. — On .Espafiola point, from a housey is shown. at fUed> white light 131 feet above the sea level. The light is vi«bie ^ miles^ it haa been seen fipom a distance of 16 miles.
Mandinga point. — ^From Espanola point the coast i tcends: to. tha^ north 3^ miles to Mandinga point, a bold bluff, forming the KE.:exts8m6L of Puna island. Just westward of this point is the village of Punay a place famous in the annals >of the buccaneers.. Itis« now>frequeaii^l[p the resort of the principal persons^f the latter ci^^duringt tfaerffainy season.
OULF OF GUAYAQUIL. 389
The coast from Maia hill to Pana village is much higher than any
other on the island/ presenting a line of cliffs fronted with a beach,
forming a pleasant contrast to the swampy mangrove shore to the
southward. Puna is considered more healthy than Guayaquil. Yes-
^seis should moor if intending to remain at that anchorage. Meat and
'Vegetables can be obtained at the village.
Light. — ^A square tower painted light green stands on Maoidinga v^poifit^^ mile east of the village of Puna^ it exhibits, from an elevation 6f 124 feetabove thesea, a fixed white light, which should be visible in .^lear weather from a distance of 10 miles.
Pilots. — ^The only pilot station now in existence at the enta*ance of Guayaquil river is at the village of Puna^ so that although the rate oi pilotage from Arena point has been fixed by the Government of 'Eooador, it- is not< possible to obtain a pilot there. The pilots have adopted » distiBgnisbing flag, marked diagonally, one half yellow, the other red, the yellow color being next to the staff and above the red. When requiring the services of a pilot, the above flag must be hoisted.
-Good pilots may be procured at Paita for the Guayaquil river.
Pilotage is compulsory for all vessels. The rates are: $1.40 per foot, i Pilots are discharged at Puna.
Mala bank is an extensive shoal, consisting of a chain of banks 16 <imles long by on0 broad, with from 2 to 15 feet water on them. It is nearly parallel to the east shore of Puna island, at a distance of about 3J miles. The shoalest part is about 4J miles southward of the north end of the bank; ismd 1^ miles westward of it are three small patches with 18 and 16 feet on them. There is a channel on each side of the '^Malarbank; theeaatern is broader and deeper, yet the western is the one generally preferred by the pilots.
. Baoys. — Five bell buoys are moored, to mark the dangers in the gulf, but no dependence can be placed on their beiug in position.
•Sombreiro buoy, in 6 fathoms, off Payana shoals, with Sombrero islet bearing 8. 62o E. (S. 60o E. mag.).
Arena Point buoy, in 6 fathoms, with the light on that point bear- ing S. 860 W. (S. 780 W. mag.).
Bigo de Aiuera buoy is red, and lies with the summit of Mala hill bearing K 13^ E. (N. 5° E. mag.).
Mala Bank buoy lies in 4 fathoms, with Arena point light bearing S. 680 W. (S. 50O W. mag.).
Oabeao Ncnrte buoy lies dose to the north end of Mala bank, south- eastward of Espanola lighthouse.
Fnna patch is a small bank lying in the route of vessels using the eastern channel when bound to Puna for a pilot. It is about i mile in eiroumference, with only one foot on it in the shoalest part and 4 to 5 : iftthoms close-to.
- Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Amortajada island at 4h.y at Pana village at Oh., and at Guayaquil at 7h., the rise and fall
390 COAST OF ECUADOR.
at springs at each place being 12 feet, neaps 7 to 8 feet. In the gulf the tide appears to set in the same direction as the trend of the shores, from 3 knots at springs to one knot at neaps, the ebb being the strongest.
Off Amortajada the ebb sets to the south and the flood to the east. In all parts of the gulf, in a sailing vessel, it will be well to anchor with light winds and an ebb tide.
Off Puna the flood sets to the K W., and the ebb SSE., about 2| knots an hour at springs; off Guayaquil the stream runs from 3 to 4 knots, following the trend of the shores, but during the rainy season the flood stream only lasts 3 hours and the ebb runs 7 knots.
Another authority adds :
<< Between Mondragon and the city of Guayaquil there is no regu- larity of the tides. This is probably caused by the winds and state of the river. There is a difference of about thirty minutes in the flood and ebb currents, the flood being shorter. The ebb and flood do aot commence until a certain time after high and low water. This interval, which is never less than ten minutes, has an average length of time from twenty to twenty-five minutes, and sometimes the interval is as great as one hour and thirty minutes with the ebb, in which case it is never greater than ten minutes with the flood.
The strength of the current is very variable in the river. It is gen- erally from 2 to 3 knots, and during the rainy season it sometimes runs at the rate of 6 knots. In September, 1884, the flood was observed to run five hours and the ebb seven hours off the city of Guayaquil. This is the dry season."
Approach to the gul£ — Vessels bound to Guayaquil from the south- ward should make the land about Picos point, which is remarkable, having many small sandy peaks. A few miles farther north is Malpelo point, low and covered with trees. Coming from the northward Amor- tajada or Santa Clara island may be made, which is visible about 16 miles, and at first appears like three hummocks, and Zampo Palo, the high range on Puna island, will generally be seen at the same time. Amortajada island should not be approached nearer than 2^ mUes, or within the depth of 12 fathoms, the best track being about 5 miles to the southward of it, in from 20 to 16 fathoms of water. Steamers usually use the !N^orth channel between Amortajada and Puna islands, the shoals off Salinas point being well defined.
Vessels should always go up as far as Puna at low water, as then all dangers will show themselves. The rise of the tide is about 12 feet at springs.
After passing eastward of the south extreme of the Mala bank, steer to the KKE., taking care not to shoal into less than 4 fathoms, and when the houses south of Espanola point are shut in by the same bluff, bearing S. 87° W. (S. 79° W. mag.), the vessel will be northward of Mala bank, and may steer for Mandinga bluff, which may be rounded
GUAYAQUIL RIVER. 391
at the distance of } mile. Sailing vessels working down the golf should not shoal into less than 4 fathoms, and should not cross the Mala bank.
Guayaquil river, the largest river on the west coast of South America, is navigable for vessels drawing 19^ feet water as far as the city, 33 miles from the entrance. The lower part of the river, about one mile wide, is bordered by low mangrove islands, upon which it is scarcely ever practicable to obtain a footing. Large mud banks, dry at low water, extend from these islands, where cranes and herons con- gregate in great variety. There are numerous alligators, and the river is infested with mosquitoes.
Mondragon and Matorillos, although termed islands, are nothiug bat large banks covered with mangrove trees growing in the water and forming a grove of innumerable pillars, at a distance quite ornamental, but from their monotony soon becoming as wearisome as a barren desert, this being the general appearance of the banks of the river. Both to the northward and southward of Mondragon and Matorillos are exten- sive mud flats covered at .half tide. There is a channel to the east of Mondragon and also of Matorillos, but both are barred at their north- ern extremes where they join the main river. The iN'aranjal and Taura rivers empty into the Mondragon channel, down which there is con- siderable trade to Puna.
The western or main bank of the river is of a similar nature to that of these islands, having occasionally small cleared spots on which land- ing may be effected at high water. The first of these is at Puerto de Balsas, just above the bar, about 9 miles north of Puna. Piedra point, 9 miles farther to the northward, is the most considerable and has on it an earthwork fort. There is a small hill over it which is remarkable amid the lowland. At 2^ miles southward of Piedra point, at the entrance of Mondragon channel and nearly in the middle of the river, is a small rock named Baja awash at low water.
The next landing is on the eastern bank of the river, 6 miles above Piedra point, called Estero de Tiramano, and there is also one on the opposite shore at the northern point of Masa island. At Casa de Josephina, 3 miles farther on the western shore, a bank extends from Santay island nearly to the middle of the river as far as the city. There is a passage on either side of Santay island, the western being the only available one for ships.
A patch with only 13 feet water on it, caused by the sinking of a ship, lies directly off the center of the town 300 yards from the quay. The marks for it are the clock tower on the quay, seen midway between the cathedral and San Augustin church, bearing S. 87° W. (S. 79^ W. mag.), and the western Oerro de la Cruz, open westward of San Merced church, N. 420 W. (K 50° W. mag.).
Above the city the river is navigable by river steamers for 80 miles to Bodegas, and by the Dooli branch for 50 miles.
The bar of Guayaquil river lies 6^ miles to the northward of Puna,
392 COAST OP ECUADOR.
between the south tod of Mondragon and Green islands. It is 2^ miles across, and the least depth on it at low water, springs, is 12 feet. A long mud flat, dry at low water, extends from the south part of the bar for 4 miles in the direction of Puna patch. Isla Yerde or Green island, on the western side of the river, has also a bank extending to the south- ward in the same direction, and it is bet widen these banks Uiat the main ' channel lies.
Above Puna the channel and shoals frequently change. The pilots say tfaatl^e ehannel across the bar is constantly shifting. According to the local officials there is 25 feet on the bar at high water, springs, and 11 feet at low water, springs.
City of Ouayaqail is the principal seaport of the Republic of Ecuador. It stands on the west bank of the river to the southward of some remarkable hills called Los Gerros de la Gruz (Gross hills).
Guayaquil has no buildings of architectural importance. The houses are of wood or bamboo a^d mud. The streets are at right angles, but the plan though regular is not carried out^ the area which the town occupies being but half built upon or inhabited. A fine quay or ^^marina" extends aloug the bank of the river the whole length of the town. It is 60 feet broad, capped with stone.
At Guayaquil the regular boat landing is at either end of the muelle, ' a long wooden wharf built on piles, near the governor's house, as shown on the chart.
The office of the <^ptain of the port is across the street from the governor's house at the entrance to the muelle. At short intervals all along the quay (marina) narrow wooden piers run out to floats, or more properly wharf boats,' which are the landing places for the river steamers. Boats can conveniently Itrnd at any of these floats at any tin)e, night or day. Ko regulations or charges.
The movements of vessels are signaled from a mast on top of the office of the captain of the port. Flags are used by day and a combi- nation of lanterns at night.
There aire three hospitals, the Givil, Military, and Oharity.
The medical officer boards vessels at Guayaquil.
The shipbuilding yard is a small concern established only for repair- ing and building river boats and small craft.
Guayaquil is the residence of the United States consul-general and Viee-consul-general; also of the British and German consuls.
Official visiltB by commanders of national vessels should be paid to the governor of the province, commander in chief of the military forces, and the captain of the port.
Salutes are answered by fleldpieces.
Seasons. — Sickness. — There is no adequate sewerage system. The streets, -except a few of the principal ones, are badly kept. The sickly season is the wet or rainy season and the transition period from the wet i^eason to the dry. Malarial fevers, dijirrliea, dysentery, and catarrh are the prevalent forms of disease, l^o late epidemics.
GUAYAQUIL. 393
The mean temperature is about 83o F. It is always hot, arid dur- ing the rainy, season from December to Jane it is stifling. The rest of the ^ear is dry.
Supplies. — Most all the produce of the interior, consisting of every variety of tropical fruits and vegetables, is brought down to the city. Good beef costs from 12J to 18 cents per pound. The water off- the city is fresh at the last of the ebb, bat is considered unfit for drinking.
Fresh water is furnished by the municipality. It is run down in iron- pipes from Agaa Clara (a mountain stream 60 miles inland) to two large reservoirs on Santa Ana hill, just below the military hospital. Thence it is distributed to consumers by regular mains.
Coal. — ^No coal is kept on hand for supplying vessels, bat at the present time the Government has on hand some 2,000 tons, which will be sold in special cases, but ordinarily is not for ss^e.
Cable to Panama and Pesuvian ports.
Port ehargos. — The balsas or rafbs used in place of lighters earry about 15 to 20 tons. Lighterage, $4 to $5 per load. The pay of a laborer is $1.50 per day.
Bill of health, $8. Ballast, $1 to $2 per ton.
Whaling and steamers are free of all port dues.
Directions for Guayaquil river. — ^No stranger bound to Guayaquil should leave Puna without a pilot. Vessels drawing moi^e than 19 feet should wait for a springtide.
It is necessary to moor off the city, taking care to avoid the shoal off the quay.
Floating islands cotne down with the freshets, ooeasioni^ly in num- bers, and necessitate clearing the hawse.
With a sailing vessel the passage up the river is made easy by the . prevailing fair wind.
Monro cbannel is another approach to the Guayaquil river to^ the westward and northward of Puna island, but the entrance is encum- bered with shoals and the land so low that no good leading marks can be obtained. There is but little occasion to use this dangerous passage. The western coast of Puna island is fronted by shoals for a distance of 10 miles. Northward of these is the entrance to the Morro channel.
Estero Salado is a singular creek to the westward of and parallel with the Guayaquil river, the head of it being only 2 miles distant fr()m the south end of the city. It is deep and free from shoals, bat withan extensive bar, only partly examined, on which no greater depth than 7 feet could be found. Like the Morro channel, this creek is of littde value to shipping.
The coast, from the entrance of the Morro channel as far as Oamero point, a distance of 48 miles to the NW., has not been examined. This piece of coast, therefore, should be carefully avoided.
The heights of Chanduy are midway between Pana island and Gar- nero point, distant about 11 miles from the seacoast. Leaving Guaya- quil for the northward, these heights form a conspicuous object. While
394 COAST OF ECUADOR.
m
standing toward Ghanday in 1883 soandings were obtained in 12 fath- oms, decreasing to 9 fathoms with Oamero point N". 9^ W. (N. 17^ W. mag.), distant 9 miles.
Cantion. — The indraught of the Morro channel mast be guarded against. A heavy swell and strong tides wiU be found between Amorta- jada island and Oarnero point. The latter is low and flat.
ShoaL — ^A dangerous shoal (reported in 1893) is said to exist S. 13^ W. (S. 50 W. mag.) 3 miles from Oarnero point.
Santa Elena pointy 11 miles NW. of Oarnero, is an abrupt hill 424 feet high, flat on the top, and forms the southern side of Santa Elena bay. When made either from the northward, southward, or eastward it appears like an island, the isthmus connecting it with the mainland being low. The point projects some distance and appears yellow and bare, neither trees nor bushes being visible, except on the upper edge. On the south side of the point is a rock aa^ash one mile off shore, about 3 miles northwestward of Oarnero point. At IJ miles N". 26° W. {1^. 330 W. mag.) of Santa Elena lighthouse is a shoal with 4^ fathoms on it.
KoTE. — Spanish Ohart No. 48 (1867) shows three rocks (Blanco shoal) nearly south of St. Elena point, distant about 9 miles. British Admiralty and French charts do not show these rocks, nor do the late sailing directions mention them.
Light. — On the hiU over Santa Elena point stands a lighthouse, from which, at an elevation of 470 feet above the sea, is exhibited a fixed and flashing white light showing as follows: A fixed light for fifty seconds, obscured three seconds; flash four seconds, obscured three seconds; and in clear weather should be visible from a distance of 20 miles; has been seen about 30 miles.
Santa Elena bay» formed to the eastward of Santa Elena point, is a good anchorage, with convenient depths. Vessels must not anchor over the submarine telegraph cables, which extend in a northerly direction from the cable house near Ohepillo point.
Santa Elena town is about 8 miles eastward of the point and 1^ miles from the shore, at the foot of a hill about 400 feet high.
Columbia shoals lie f mile off Ballenita point. They consist of two shoals, with from 12 to 18 feet of water on them and 5^ fathoms between them. The anchorage is outside of the buoy which marks these shoals, in about 6 fathoms. Bun in with the buoy in line with customhouse, anchoring about J mile outside of the buoy.
Landing. — There is no regular landing in the bay, the beach abreast the customhouse being the usual place, though apt to be bad, with a mod- erate surf; there is 3J fathoms at low water close to the customhouse.
Supplies. — ^Neither supplies nor fresh water can be obtained here. The Pacific Steam Navigation Oompany's steamers call here once a month. In 1884 the population was something over 1,000. The chief trade is in Panama hats and salt.
Telegraphic cable. — The coast telegraphic cable lands at Ohepillo
AYANGUE POINT — PORT CALLO. 395
point, 1^ miles to the eastward of the lighthouse, and runs out due north from the land for some distance.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Santa Elena bay at Ih. 18m. 5 springs rise 8 feet.
Ayangue point is a rocky peninsula 20 miles to the KE. of Santa Elena point, the coast between forming a deep bay, with alternate beaches and rocky bluflfe. Three miles southward of Ayangue point, at the north extreme of a long beach, is a small creek called Estero Balsa, on the south bank of which is a large village, well marked by a table hill 260 feet high rising to the southward of it, and the hill of Golonche 6 miles inland.
Pelado islet — Three miled to the WW. of Ayangue point is the small rocky islet named Pelado, 72 feet high, with a reef extending about 200 yards from its northern side.
Valdivia. — ^North of Ayangue is a village called Valdivia, at which bullocks can be obtained, but the landing is bad.
Coast — From Ayangue point the coast runs !NKW. for 24 miles to Salango island, clear of shoals, with the two projecting points of Mon- tanita and Tampa. Two miles KW. of the latter, with a clear passage between, are the Ahorcados, a small group of rocky islets. Inland is a high ridge running parallel to the shore, rising to an elevation of 2,400 feet.
Salango island, 524 feet high, is 2 miles in circumference and cov- ered with luxuriant vegetation. The island formerly was an anchorage much resorted to by whalers, who came for water and fresh provisions, which are to be obtained from a neighboring plantation.
There are a few rocks oif the west point of the island, but they are steep-to; the passage between the island and the main should not be used. Large bamboos are found here, and fish are plentiful. The greatest surf prevails with a rising tide.
Anchorage. — ^The anchorage is northward of Salango island, in 15 to 20 fathoms water, on a line from the north point of the bay to the east point of the island, and about i mile from a rivulet on the main shore, which forms the watering place. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company's steamers call at Salango and at Machatillo, 8 miles farther north.
Tides. — It is high water, frill and change, at Salango island anchorage at Oh. 41m. ; rise 12 feet.
The coast between Salango island and Oanoa point, 22 miles farther north, recedes, and forms a bay 8 miles deep. Oallo point is a bluff in the bight of the bay 14 miles NE. of Salango island, with a small islet named Gallo just north and a rock named Daphne just south of it.
Port Callo, about 2 miles KE. of Gallo island, is an open roadstead, but good anchorage may be obtained in 5^ fathoms at i mile from the shore, with Daphne rock seen midway between Oallo island and the mainland.
396 (X)AST OF ECUADOR.
During the winter-season heavy rollers are experienced, rendering commnnication with the shore diffienlt, and at times imposinble.
The shipment and discharge of cargo is performed by comies, but owing to the heavy surf it is difficult and dangerous.
There are only four houses in the port, occupied, severally, by the captain of the port and launehmen. About one mile inland there is an inn for Iravelers from Jipijapa, of which important town Oallo may be considered the seaport. The journey from one place to the other occu- pies 1^ hours on horseback. The principal exports consist of hats, ivory, nuts, hides, small quantities of coffee, and rubber.
La Plata island, 790 feet high, about 19 miles WNW. J W. of Gallo point, is covered with large bushes or low trees ; it presents a brownish, dried-up appearance, cut up by gray furrows. The western side forms precipitous cliffs, off which are a few small islets. The landing is On the beach on the eastern side. The anchorage is in a deep, small, sandy bay, i mile from shore, in 18 or 20 fathoms. Salango bay is x)referable. Wood, and frequently turtle, can be obtained here.
' Light. — ^A fixed white light is shown from a white mast, with keejiet's dwelling near, on the NW. end and snmmit of the island. It is elevated about 750 feet above the sea and visible 10 miles.
CapoBanLoreazo, inlatitndel^ 3' S., is the outer part of a high pro- jection of the coast, terminating in a tongue of land about J mile long, off which Are three detached rocks, one of them resembling a pinnacle; eastward of the cape are some hills, the principal of which is Monte- cristi, 1^29 feet high. The water deepens off this cape, the 100-£s^thom line being only 5 miles from the land, with 40 fathoms at a distance of one mile.
Manta bay. — From cape San Lorenzo the coast trends to theosorth- eastward 8 miles to San Mateo point, 7 miles eastward of which i» the village of Manta, the seaport of the town of Monte Ghristo, situated eastward of the hill of the same name.
The United Sta/tes is represented by a consular agent.
Light. — A fixed white harbor light is shown from a scaffolding 68 ifeet above high water at the north side of the village, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 12 miles.
Directions. — Coming from the southward, bound to Manta bay, it is advisable to make the coast at Santa Elena point, as a strong current generally sets along the coast to the northward and the atmoi^herc^ is usually hazy.
After passing San Mateo point, Manta road will open to view. A berth of at least 2 miles should be given the shore until the bay opens and the lighthouse bears S. 16^ W. (S. 9o W. mag.), for on this bearing, at a distance of about 1^ miles from the shore line, is a sunken rock with from 7 to 8 feet of water over it. The sea seldom breaks over it. The light is of no great service to mark this dangerous spot, as sailing ves- sels can not enter the port at night on account of calms which prevail, and the coasting steamers always wait for daylight before entering.
MANTA BAY — CAEAQUES RIVER. 397
Care must be taken of the sboal patches which extend about f mile from the shore, but there will be no danger if attention is paid to the soaudings.
Anchorage. — The usual anchorage is in 5 fathoms at about f mile from the^hore in good holding ground; but vessels anchor farther out during the rainy season (December to April), as there is usually at that time a heavy swell, the sea breaking iu 16 feet.
Tide&r— It is high water, fuU and change, in Mauta bay at 3h. 4m.; springs xise 6 feet.
Winds and weather. — ^In the dry season the weather is uniform and pleasant. A light breeze prevails from southward from esurly morning until about 10 a. m., when it hauls to the westward, increasing to a fresh breesse until about 4 p. m., and then dies out to a calm^ At midnight a gontie land breeze sets in. The wet season is from January to April, when calms alternate with breezes from the northward.
Laading.)— The landing is abreast the town and is good. Boats will find the landing easier in the morning and evening, as the afternoon sea breezes often produce a high surf.
Siafiplies. — Vessels bound to Manta should be supplied with pro- visions and water, as the latter can not be obtained there, that used by the natives being brought on mules from Monte Ohristo, The few provisions that can be purchased are excessively dear. Beef may be obtained at Monte Ghristo. The best place for watering near Manta is at.Salango bay. It must be done by casks, which must be towed off, as there is always a surf.
Cliarapoto river.. — From Manta the coast trends east 4 miles to Jaramijo bluff, from which it curves to the north for 15 miles to Ghara- poito. river, which flows through an extensive plain bounded by white cliff's 789 feet high. The mouth of the river is barred and landing is difi&eult. Northeast of the. Gharapoto river are the mountains . of BalsamOtf
Qaraqnes rnrer. — At 11 miles northward of Gharapoto river is Bel- laca point, eastward of which is the entrance of Garaques river, shoal aftd di£l<mlt of access^ but much used by coasters, there being a con- siderable: trade in cocoa. Santa Marta bank, a rock ledge on which the sea always breaks, lies IJ miles northward of Bellaca point, with d^thfi of 5 and 6 fathoms in the channel between. There are only 5 feet water in the old channel eastward of this bank, round Playa point, which. is low and grassy, with a small rock which shows just above water oft* it* Northward of this are two banks dry at low water. Manavi cbttDnjel ^long the. northern shore has silted up.
Town. — ^The village of Bahia is about J mile to the southward of. Playa point, from which the river runs in a southeasterly direction, and has been exavuned only 6 miles up.
A United States consular agent resides here.
Siif>plle0.^-FreBh water can be procured by sending^boats 3 miles up the riv«r. Beef can be obtained at the town, and fish are plenttftd.
398 COAST OF ECUADOR.
Tides. — ^It is high wator, fall aud change, at 2h. 30in.; rise, II feet. The tide runs 6h. flood aud 6h. ebb, except in the rainy seanon, viz, January, February, March, and April, when the flood is 5h. and the ebb is 7h.
Cape Pasado is a high round point, apparently split, the land on both sides covered with short trees, that to the southward being bounded by white cliffs. A reef of rocks extends J mile to the north- ward of the cape, and in a small bay formed by them is a fair anchor- age in 6 fathoms, about one mile IS. 30^ E. (N. 23^ E. mag.) from the cape. Fresh water may be obtained in the bay.
Jama point. — ^Between cape Pasado and Borrachos point, 11 miles to the KE., the beach is studded with rocks, with wooded cliffs of a uniform height a short distance inshore. !Near Borrachos point the bare white clifts again make their appearance, fronted with long sandy beaches.
At Jama point, 5 miles farther to the KE., the coast takes a sudden turn to the southeastward, forming a wide but shoal bay, in the bight of which is an extensive plain, with two rivers running through it. The northern shore is bordered by the high land of Guaques, a white patch in which is remarkable from the sea.
Pedemales point (Shingle point), nearly 20 miles KE. of Jama point, is a narrow cliffy ridge with a few rocky islets off it. In the bay, about one mile to the eastward from the point, is the mouth of a small river, on the bank of which is a village, very conspicuous from the sea, but the landing is difficult and the supplies indifferent.
Cojimies shoals. — ^The Gojimies shoals commence 18 miles north- ward from Pedemales point, and appear to be a bar formed by the mouth of a large river. Their outer edge extends 4 miles from the shore, and has the form of a semicircle over 5 miles in diameter, with the depth of 6 fathoms about one mile from the edge, deepening sud- denly to 40 fathoms at a distance of 3 miles. Ko rocks were seen and no passage could be found through the breakers. The land in the vicinity is low and mangroves grow on Zapotal (Mangles) point.
Soundings. — ^The whole coast from cape Pasado to these shoals is fronted by a bank of 5 fathoms water and under, which extends off- shore from one to 3 miles.
Portete river is a stream of some magnitude which has its entrance at 2 miles to the northward of Zapotal point, but with a dangerous bar. Here the cliffs begin again. At 2 miles farther to the northward is a small village eastward of Mompiche point, which in some measure protects the landing, where water, cattle, and especially pigs may be obtained in great abundance.
(H. O. Chart No. 1176.)
Cape San Francisco forms the southern end of a large round bluff which trends in a northerly and northeasterly direction for II miles to Galera point, a low shelving point forming its northern extreme. This bluff* is composed of abrupt cliffs of a moderate height, clothed with
CAPE SAN FRANCISCO ATACAME8 LEDGE. 399
tall trees and generally steep- to, thoagli in some places the rocks lie a little distance off the coast, but the heavy breakers always show their position. The country inland is mountainous and wooded.
Cape San Francisco is the northern and Mompiche point the south- ern extreme of a bay, into which flow several rivers, the largest being the Muisne, about 6 miles from the cape, tracing its course for some distance along the beach, but a bar at' the entrance renders its naviga- tion precarious even for boats. The Banche river, 3 miles NW. of Muisne river, may be known by four remarkable rocks. To the north- ward of these rocks is a small bay, in which is the town of San Fran- cisco, and on its western shore is a little river that may be entered at high water. The landing is at all times good.
Anchorage. — This small bay, having only 2^ to 3 fathoms in it, will not permit a large vessel to go nearer than a mile. The usual anchor- age is about i mile S. 53° W. (S. 46o W. mag.) of the four rocks.
Supplies. — Water and refreshments of all kinds may be obtained on this part of the coast. The Bunche river offers the most convenient place for procuring bullocks, pigs, or vegetables. The small bay under the cape is advantageous for watering, the water being very good.
The coast from G-alera point trends in an easterly direction 7 miles, thence more northerly for about 2 miles to Same point, and consists, as far as Sua point, a distance of about 3 miles farther east, of low white cliffs crowned with trees and fronted by beaches studded occa- sionally with black rocks. Just east of Oalera point there is a small bay with convenient landing. Same and Sua points are remarkable, being small clifiy peninsulas, each connected with the main by a sandy isthmus.
Sua Supplies. — Sua river empties into Sua bay, and about a mile inland is Sua village, where there are extensive plantations of sugar cane, for manufacturing aguadiente. Tobacco is grown on a large scale. Oranges and pineapples are abundant.
Atacames bay and river. — Atacames bay is on the east side of Sua point, which is a good mark for it. On the east side of the bay is the Atacames river, which can only be entered at high water. The landing on the beach is sometimes dangerous.
Atacames village. — On the east bank is the small village of Ata- cames, containing about 600 persons. Vegetables and fruit are to be had in abundance. It has been a great resort for the whalers for water, fresh provisions, and yams. Water is obtained from a river which flows into a cove just around Aguada point, the river being accessi- ble at all times of the tide. On its eastern bank is a small village and plantation.
Atacames ledge. — At Galera point a bank commences, and extends nearly 2 miles from the shore. Off Atacames it juts out to the north- ward and westward, and terminates 7 miles from the land in a danger- ous ledge of coral 1^ miles long "NW. and SE., by i mile broad, with an average depth on it of 12 feet, and 6 feet of water on its shoalest
400 COAST OF ECUADOR.
part. The slioal has extended farther northward than indicated on the charts.
Atacames ledge is dangerous to sailing vessels working to the south- ward out of Panama bay, as both wind and current generally cause them to make the land about Atacames^ care must therefore be taken not to go in less than 10 fathoms, and not to bring Galera point to the westward of S. 41^ W. (S. 34^ W. mag.). Vessels bound to Atacames bay should make Galera point, and run along the land, anchoring about IJ miles north of the former in 6 fathoms, with the town bearing 8. 430 B. (S. 500 E. mag.).
Tidea — It is high water, full and change, in Atacames bay at 3h. 37m. ; rise 13 feet.
Gorda point is a steep bluff with a small reef off it about 8 miles NE. from Atacames, the coast between being low land and beach, with an occasional cliff near the point. . The shoal water of Atacames lodge apparently stretches into this part of the coast, and therefore vessels from Atacames to Eameraldas drawing more than 12 feet water should pass outside it.
Esmeralda? river. — The Esmeraldas river is a very rapid stream, of considerable length, fiill of shoals, and formed by the junction of numerous rivers about 40 miles from its mouth. The entrance of the river is 6 miles to the eastward of Gorda point 5 it is well marked by the narrow and precipitous gorge through which it runs and a small round peak over the eastern point of entrance,
The bottom of the bar of the river is deep and uneven, 84 fathoms being found alongside of 7 fathoms. The stream runs out with great velocity J the water is fresh 2 miles from the mouth. Well-defined light sandstone cliffs extend from Gorda. point to Coqnito point, west side of entrance to Esmeraldas river. The spit off Coquito point extends J mile in an easterly direction from the point. It is covered at half tide, and there are no huts on it. The shoal or spit off East point doeS: not show as a ledge. It is probably similar to the spit off Coquito i)oint, and extends about one mile northward from East point, but does not uncover. There are a number of huts on the west side of. East point about J mile from its extremity^ Bb,q^ of and near these huts iS: a conspicuous tree showing darker green than the adjacent vegetation. This tree and a round hill make good landmarks. The hill is bare of the trees peculiar to the point, and being covered with a light-green vegetation is prominent by contrast.
The entrance to the river between Coquito and East points is very, shallow and the current strong. and always running out. An ordinary boat is liable to get aground at any stage of the tide; also apt to strike a snag or sunken log, of which the riyer is fiill. It is best to go in at low water, keeping, close to the west bank, where the deepest water can be seen. The landing is on the bank abreast the town. There are no licensed pilots. Natives acquainted with the river and roadstead can be found in the town.
ESMERALDAS SAN LORENZO BAY. 401
The latitude of the castomhouse is 1© V 60" N.
It is said that the hydrographic features in the vicinity of Bsmeraldas river are continually changing, and earthquakes are liable to cause most erratic transformations.
Bsmeraldas is about 1^ miles southward of Ooquito' point, and its population is now about 800. There is no town nor any settlement of importance farther up the river.
The United States is represented by a consular agent.
Anchorage may be obtained off the entrance in 8 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom, with Gorda point bearing S. 53^ W. (S. 46^ W. mag.) and Ooquito point S. 37o E. (S. 44o E. mag..).
The small steamers that visit the port anchor on the edge of a deep hole about halfway between the river banks just inside of Ooquito and East points. This anchorage is a very undesirable one, however, and the steamers only nse it while discharging or talking cargo. Whem using it the anchor should be sighted at least once in twenty-four hours.
The holding ground in the roadstead is very good — sticky bine mud.
Light. — ^The lighthouse on Ooquito point 'is about f mile sotfthwest- ward from the extremity of the point. It is a frail structure, consisting of a hut built on piles. The light is in a cupola on top of the hut, but is not to be relied upon, and sometimes is not lighted. Th« light is fixed white, 36 feet above the sea level, and should be visible 9 miles.
Supplies. — The principal trad« at this port is cocoa and tobacco, the latter said to be the best on the coast. A considerable quanitity of grain is produced, also cotton, and a small export of caoutchouc. The. steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Oompany call here once a month each way.
Verde point, the next remarkable place on the coast, is a cliffy bluff with a hill over it, 13 miles eastward df Bsmeraldas river, the bight between forming the bay of San Mateo. The Verde river, at one mile westward of Verde point, has a bar navigable at high water, and a small town named Eio Verde stands on the- eastern bank.
The coast from Verde point trends eastward 13 miles to the Vainillfta river. The shore is lower, with fewer cliffs, but the seveual ^hats and cultivated spots near them give the^oast a more civilized appearance. The cliffs cease altogether at the Vaiuillita river, at which point the low land commences, continuing with only two breaks as far as cape Oorri- entes, a distance of 300 miles.
Santdago riv^er, F^osa karbor, and San Lorenzo bcqr.— The eosait between Vainillita river and Mangles point, at 32 ^miles farther morlSi, is a shallow bight in which are tiiree large openings, apparent^ the mouths of rivers, forming the entrances to a Gonsiderable inlaaid ^na£d- gation, a^d leading to the Pailon, a deep basin of some extent.
Ko vessel should approach this coast within the depth of 10 fathonls, which is generally found at a distance of 4 miles from the land, unless bound into the anchorages. 1943—1^^0.89 2&
402 COAST OF ECUADOR.
Santiago River, 11 miles northeastward of Yainillita river, is of con- siderable width, and formerly had three passages through the breakers, the southern being the best, but they probably alter with the freshets. There are several houses on the southern bank, and numerous cattle were seen. About one mile within the mouth is the village of Tola, firom which there is an inland communication by a channel, with a depth of 3 fathoms for 30 miles.
Posa harbor is 4 miles northeastward of the Santiago river, the coast between being fringed with shoals on which the sea breaks con- tinually and extending 4 miles from shore. The passage into the har- bor is through shoals about one mile wide, with a depth of 12 feet at low water. When inside, the harbor is capacious and secure.
San Lorenzo bay. — The breakers extend to San Lorenzo bay, the best of the three openings, into which the channel is broader, with about the same depth of water. No vessel bound to any of these ports should attempt to enter without a pilot, who can be easily obtained at Tola, the coast being so low and similar that no leading marks can be given, distinguishable by a stranger. There are apparently two more openings on the northern shore of the bight, but they have not been examined. ISo vessels should approach the coast within the depth of 10 fathoms, which is generally found at a distance of 4 miles from the land.
Tides. — ^It is high water, fiill and change, in San Pedro entrance at 3h. 30m.; springs rise 13 feet.
Mangles pointy 39 miles NE. of Verde point, is the SW. extreme of a low narrow island, forming the northern point of Pianguapi bay. The point is low and sandy, and the water is deep off it, there being 38 fathoms within ^ mile of the point, and 100 fathoms at a distance of 3^ miles. Bullocks and fresh water can be obtained from a small village close to the point. From thence the coast runs in a northeasterly direc- tion for 19 miles, low and intersected with esteros, or creeks, said to be the mouths of the Mira river, as far as Boca Grande, which is the largest, and rendered conspicuous by a considerable village surrounded with cocoanut trees.
oalApaoos islands.
(B. A. ChartB Nob.' 1375 and 1376.)
General description. — These islands, situated nearly on the equa- tor, are about 600 miles from the coast of Ecuador, to which politically they belong, but there is no government.
There are six principal islands, nine smaller, and many islets scarcely to be distinguished from rocks. The largest island, Albemarle, is 72 miles in length. The formation of the whole group is volcanic. With the exception of some ejected fragments of granite, which have been curiously glazed by the heat, every part consists of lava or of sand- stone. The higher islands generally have one or more principal craters
galApagos islands. 403
•
toward their centers, with smaller ones on their flanks. It is said there are not less than 2,000 craters among the islands.
There is a^ great similarity in their appearance, which consists of a rounded outline with peaks or extinct craters throughout. A marked difference is observed between the south sides of the islands and the opposite sides. The southern sides are covered with soil and luxuriant vegetation. The northern sides are principally of uncovered lava, from the crevices of which spring a thick undergrowth.
Currents. — The currents are remarkable, for in addition to their velocity, which is from one to 2^ miles an hour, and usually toward the West and KW., there is a surprising difference in temperature of the bodies of water moving within a few miles of each other. On one side of Albemarle island the temperature of the sea a foot below the surface was 80O, but on the other side it was less than 60^. These differences are owing to the cool current coming from the southward along the coasts of Chile and Peru, which, at the Galdpagos, meets a warmer body of water moving from the bay of Panama.
Kear cape Blanco the current leaves the coast and bears toward the Galdpagos islands, passing them on both the northern and southern sides. Here it sets toward the WNW. and West. The breadth of the bed, on the meridian of the Galdpagos, is from 400 to 500 miles; beyond this it widens rapidly and is lost in the equatorial current near 108^ W.
Climate. — ^Although these islands are nearly on the equator, the climate is not excessively hot, which, perhaps, is owing to the low tem- perature of the surrounding sea. The rainy season is said to commence in January and lasts until April. Sometimes for two or three consecu- tive years the fall of rain is slight. This season is, therefore, more characterized by the cessation of the SE. trade winds. During these months calms prevail, varied by occasional squalls from the North and KW., accompanied by thunder and lightning. They are said never to reach the eastern islands, but are attracted by the higher land of Albemarle and Karborough. These squalls are not heavy or of long duration. The long calms and strong currents in the vicinity of the islands during this season render the navigation for vessels under sail hazardous and dif&cult. From the middle of April to the end of December the trade wind blows with regularity, and gales are unknown.
The colonists of Chatham island divide the year into two seasons; wet seasons from July to November, and the remainder of the year is the dry season. The latter is subject to frequent heavy squalls, while in the wet season a continuous flue rain falls, similar to the heavy dews of Peru. Heavy rollers occasionally break upon the northern shores during the rainy season, though no wind of any consequence accompanies them. They are probably caused by the Northers from Tehuantepec and the Papagayos or NB. winds.
Supplies. — In about the year 1845 a number of cattle, goats, horses, and pigs were landed on Charles, Chatham, and Albemarle islands.
404 GALAPAGOS ISLAND&
•
Tbese have greatly increased, and 6,000 of all kinds are now repoxied to be on Chatham island. The cattle are wild, and hard to getaL The ifilands produce sugar cane, cotton, vegetables, and fruit oi all kinds; also grain, except rice. The principal exports are hides^^sagar, and tuwl (pisco). Tortoise oil is no louger exported.
Water is found on many of the islands in the raoiy season, and the watering places at Charles and Chatham islands can be d^ended upou, though that at Chatham island (Freshwater bay) 4)an not be approached at times on account of the surf. Fish are plMitiAil, and can be easily caught where the seine can be hauled.
Chatham (San Cristobal) islaiid, the eastern of the group, ds 24: miles long by 8 miles broad, the peaks at the •southwesteim «nd bein^ nearly 2,500 fbet high. This island has od it a settlement named Pro- greso, with a population (1892) of about 300. The settlement is reached by a good road from Wreck bay, whence it is 5 miles distant. The island has a fertile soil, several good anchorages on its western ooast^ and plenty of water.
There are several acres of land under cultivation, producing fruit, vegetables, and sugar cane; the latter is said to thrive wellsuid to be of excellent quality. There are also several herds of wild •cattle 4ind numerous wild dogs.
Supplies. — ^Fresh meat, fruit, a moderate quantity of vegetables, and .firewood can be obtained on Chatham island.
Freshwata: bay, possessing the watering place before mentioned, de an open roadstead on the south side of the island. The anchoi^i^c^ which is in 20 fathoms, is about 800 yards off the watciring i^ace, a^fine stream falling from a lava cliff about 30 feet high. Ships well provided with ground tackle may lie here and water.
IVreck point is the SW. extremity of the island, and hasr^efs o& it extending to the westward. «The currents off the point are «aid to be strong and uncertain.
Wreck bay (Porto Chico) is a snug anchorage just north of Wreofe point. It is sheltered from the NW. by Schiavoni reef. In smootb weather this reef gives no indication of its existence. There is no piei:, and landing at times is difficult. Care must be used in approaohi^ the bay, more especially from the westward, and in all oases Dalrya»plfi rock, 62 feet high, 2 miles north of the bay, should be closed, and fthe bay entered to the eastward, to avoid Schiavoni reef. These is a store- house at the head of the bay, where the road toProgreso colony 'b^gina.
A rock with 11 feet water over it lies with Lido point beariitg K. 220 E. (K 130 E. mag.), about 400 yards off shore.
The following is from the report of Commander Mdhan, Wibo vifiuted Stephens bay and Wreck cove in the U. S. S. Wachtis^in 1884:
^<The settlement or the hacienda of Senor Manuel I.Cobos is 4iiaQ%B back of Wreck cove. Communication with Guayaquil is maintaned by a small sailing sloop, which makes the r(mnd trip <onoeinithirt{ror
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS. 405^
fortjR days. An excellent road leads from Wreck cove to the house. Pepolatioii at present, 177»
^^wo-thkds of the island is fit for caltivation. Soil is fertile, and produces sugar cane, coffee, hemp, potatoes, corn, bananas, and fruitb
^^Trees are small and used only for firewood.
'^ni^ly of water is- bountiful and very good. It is difficult for ships to get water aboard.
'^Eforses, cattle^ dogs, donkeys, and cats are found. The horses are all domestic, but the others are both domestic and wild. Birds, terrapin,. turtle, iguanas, and snakes are found. Fish abundant.
'<Ko metals on Chatham, but sulphur is abundant on Albemarle. Lime is made on Ohatham.
"The exports amount to $30,000 a year.
"The landing at Wreck cove is good but the harbor is small; vessels call frequently, especially whalers and ships of war."
TidecK — ^Across the entrance of the bay the flood stream sets to the NE. and' the ebb to the SW. Strength of current about IJ knots, the ebb being' a little the stronger. It is high water, full and change, at 2h; ^m-; springs-rise 6^ feet.
Light. — ^A fixed white light is exhibited from a staff 36 feet above the sea level, in Wreck bay, visible 4 miles.
Stephens bay (Forto Gkrande), having good anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms,^ mile from the shore, is about 8 miles to the NE. of Wreck bay. This bay may be easily known by the Kicker rock, a curious mass of stone, 486 feet high, and rising almost perpendicularly. Finger point, onthe NB. side of thel)ay, is a remarkable pinnacle, 516 feet high.
Commander Mahan, United States Kavy, says of Stephens bay :
"The bearings from the anchorage were as follows: Dalrymple rock, S. 580 W. (S. 490 W. mag.); Kicker rock, N. 660 W. (N. 75° W. mag.); Finger point. If. 31° B. (N. 22o B. mag.). The ship rode mainly to the trade wind, blowing from South to SB., but a strong tidal current was observed, bringing the wind alternately on either bow. From observa- tions made it was found that the flood sets NB. and the ebb SW. along the north shore of the island, and when under way with the flood, the bearings showed that the current of the tide nearly neutralized the set of the Humboldt current of the islands. A more satisfactory anchor- age in 12 fathoms than the one taken can be found by standing in to the east side of the bay, Kicker rock bearing K. 69° W. (N. 68^ W. mag.), and (keeping) the west point of the bay on line with Dalrymple rock.^
Sappho cove, at the head of Stephens bay, affords anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms water.
Terrapin road is an open anchorage on the "NW. side of the island, with 12 and 14 i&thoms J mile from the shore,
Hobbs reef is a dangerous ledge extending over one mile from the ISB. point of Ohatham island.
406 oalXpagos islands.
Hood (Espaftola) island, the southernmost of the group, lying 27 miles from Chatham, is small, round, and rugged, covered with small, sunburnt brushwood, and bounded by a bold, rocky shore. It is 640 feet high.
Gardner bay is an anchorage on the ms. shore of Hood island, inside Gardner island, 160 feet high, but care must be taken of Magi- cienne rock, lying near the center of the bay. This rock has only 14 feet of water on it, and lies with the outer part of the island, at the eastern part of the bay, bearing S. 62^ E. (S. 71° E. mag.) § mile; a rocky islet in the SW. part of the bay, S. 60° W. (8. 51© W. mag.), i mile; center of Gardner island, "N. 66° E. (N. 66° B. mag.).
The rock is about 30 feet long in a NW. and BE. direction, 10 feet wide, and has a depth of 8 and SI fathoms on the outside, and 6^ and 6 fathoms inside, and may be avoided by keeping close to the shore of the small island at the eastern part of the bay.
Charles (Santa Maria) island, at 37 miles westward of Hood island, is 24 miles in circumference, and peculiar in its outline, from a succes- sion of round-topped hills, similar in shape, though differing in size, which show on every point of view. The highest and largest of these hills rises 1,780 feet.
Black Beach road, on the western side of Oharles island, affords good anchorage in 10 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom, 600 to 1,000 yards from the shore, fairly protected from the swell by several small reefs lying between it and Saddle point. Vessels should not anchor in less than 10 fathoms, to avoid a rock with 6 feet of water on it, lying some distance from the shore. The highest peak of Oharles island bearing S. 620 E. (8. 710 E. mag.) will lead to the anchorage in Black Beach road, and well to the southward of the 6- foot rock. Landing is always practicable on a small sandy beach between the black rocks.
Supplies. — ^A plentiful supply of firewood can be obtained in the vicinity of the landing place.
Post Office bay, on the !NW. side of Oharles island, is in every way superior, being a sheltered anchorage, with moderate depth of water, easy of access, and only wants fresh water to make it a desirable place for shipping. The anchorage is in 9 fathoms, with Onslow island bear- ing N. 720 E. (N. 630 E. mag.), open at the east point of the bay. The best way of reaching the settlement is to land in Black Beach road at a hut about 4 miles from Post Office bay. The island was uninhabited in 1886.
Supplies. — ^There are said to be upwards of 2,000 head of wild cattle on Oharles island; pigs and goats are also abundant. Water is plentiful at all seasons and could be easily led to the coast by means of pipes.
Shoals. — A patch with a depth of 4 fathoms at low water, spring tides, and 5 to 6 fathoms around, lies with Observation spot bearing S. 390 E. (S. 480 E. mag.), distant 650 yards, and Daylight point N. 87° W. (S. 840 W. mag.).
gaj^Ipagos islands. 407
A patch with a depth of 5 fathoms lies approximately with Observa- tion spot bearing S. 31^ E. (S. 40^ E. mag.), distant 1,200 yards, and Daylight point S. 73o W. (8. 64° W, mag.).
Off the eastern side of Charles island are several outlying islets, Gardner, the outer one, being 4 miles from the shore, and 3 miles S. 64^ E, (S. 730 E. mag.) of this islet is a dangerous rock awash.
Commander Eastman, United States Navy, says:
^^ The anchorage in Black Beach bay is preferable to Post Office bay, if you wish to go into the interior, as the only road from the shore is in that bay, and there is no danger, for the weather is uniformly pleasant. I do not know where a crew could refresh easier than here; it is healthy, I believe, l^o convenience for watering ship here, as the wells are one mile or more uphill from the anchorage at Black Beach road. We experienced no wind but a pleasant southerly breeze, and the anchor- age is as smooth as a pond."
Tides. — It.is high water, frill and change, at Post Office bay at 2h. 10m.; springs rise 6 feet.
Macgowen reef is a dangerous shoal, consisting of one rock awash and another only a few feet under water. It lies on a fine drawn from the south part of Charles island to Chatham island, and rather nearer the latter, with the peak of Hood island bearing 8. 44° E. (S. 53° E. mag.), distant 22 miles. The lead will give no warning of this shoal, 50 fathoms being found within 1^ miles of it.
Indefatigable (Santa Cruz) island, 27 miles northward of Charles, is, after Chatham, stated to be the best one of the group. There is a convenient watering place in a small creek on the ISTE. side. The island consists of one large mountain, and the only anchorage appears to be on its northern side in Conway bay, which may be known by the Guy Fawkes islets, a straggling group lying to the northward of it. There is good landing in this bay for boats.
Duncan (Finzon) and Barrington (Santa Fe) islands are small, the former lying 6 nules off the west, and the latter, 900 feet high, is 10 miles off the SE. of Indefatigable island.
James (San Salvador) island is a high, large, and well-wooded tract of ground, or rather lava. It has abundance of water on the higher lands, but the lower parts are so broken and dry that little ever reaches the coast. On this island is a salt lake, a circular crater, from which salt may be obtained.
Anchorage. — ^The best anchorage at James island is in James bay, on the west side, to the northward of the highest land, a remarkable sugarloaf. Vessels may anchor here in 14 fathoms within a mile of a sandy beach, with Albany island off the crater at the north extreme of the bay, bearing North (N. 9^ W. mag.). Sullivan bay, at the east end of James island, is another anchorage, but it is open with deep water.
Albemarle (Isabela) island is a singular mass of volcanic ejections, and may (with ISTarborough island to the westward) be described as six huge craters, whose bases are united from their own overflowed lava.
408 galIpagos islands.
Tlie sonthem side, which is exposed to the trade wind^ completely intercepting it^ is green and thickly wooded and doubtless has fireali water; bat the heavy swell prevented the examination of this portion of the island^ which is so low as. not to be diaoeiuible. until the mirf is Sevan, on the shore..
The foiir. Croasman i0letS|;the remains of volcanoes, lie near the SE. extreme, and, with Brattle, island, are extremely us^ul in warning vessels of their approach to tiiis dangerous piece of ooastb A Iohr swell setting toward the land and tiie generally light winds are addi- tional reasons for avoiding this shore. There is, however, anchoraigein case of necessity.
Esftex. pointy the SW. extreme of tiie island, is high; and to the neipth of it^ at the foot of the highest crater, is Iguana cove, a wild- looking anGhQrAge,;abounding in iguanas* Northward of Iguana cove is Christopher point, the south extreme of Elizabeth bay, the northern shore: of which is formed by Narborcmgh island. The passage between this island and Albemarle is from 2 to 3 miles wide.
Webb cave;, about 7 miles norUiward of Ohristopher point, is » m<»re convenient anchorage than Iguana cove. The water is smoother and the positi(Hi more sheltered. A depth of 25 fathoms will be found about 200 yards from the shore.
Tag|iSvQove.^-"On the Albemarle side of the above passage is Tagos cove, a snug anchorage formed by the old crater, capable of containing. six vessels with from 6. to. 14 fathoms of w>ater. There are no dangers in entering, and the shores around it ace so steep as< to be almost inaccessible.
About i mile SE. of the southern entrance of Tagus cove, and a fyw feet above high- water mark, a supply of good, fresh water may be obtained from some pools in. the rocks at. the mouth of two narrow gullies, where there is a fair landings
Baaks bay> between Narborough island and cape Berkeley, the NW. point of Albemarle, has no anchorage in it, the water being deep, no bottom with 150 fathoms ^ mile from l^arborough. Albemarle point, the northern point of Albemarle island, has a reef extending one mile off it.
Redonda rock.— At 13 miles U* 76o W. (IST. 84p W. mag.) of Albe- marle point is Bedonda rock, 85 feet high,: barren, and about ^ mile in circumference.
Narborough (Femandina) island is a great volcano 3,720 feethigh, whose base is surrounded by an extensive field of lava,, utterly barren and desolate.
Abingdon (Finta),, Bindloe (Marchena), and Tower. ialaxkd%. respectively, form the northern side of this group. The two former are of a similar nature to the other islands, but the latter is different^ being low and flat.
Anchorage. — There is a fair anchorage in 7 to 15 fathoms; bottom,
IfALPELO ISLAOT) GOCOB ISLAND 409;
sand and roek, 600 to 800 yarde &om the shore, abreai^ of the high cliff on the west side of Abingdon island, at aboat 1^ miles north oi cape Chalmers. The clifis, nearly 1,000 feet high, appear from sea- ward almost perpendicular from the water, bat on a nearer approach a narrow sloping shelf of rock, with patehes of black sandy beaeh, will be seen at their foot.
Directioiis. — ^Making this anchorage^ from the south,, if cape Chal- mers be roanded within a mile, which can be done with safety, a green patch will be seen nearly at the foot of the highest cliff, off which, and 400 to^GOO yards to the north of it, lis the anchorage; soundings will not be obtained until within ^ mile of the shore. Landing can be effected about 1^ miles to the uorUiward of the anchorage.
Culpepper and Wenman, two small rocky and barren islets, lying. N W. and BMsy 20 miles of each otiier, complete the group. Wenman is 75 miles K. by W. f W. of Albemarle point, and consists of three islets ^ and a large rock near together. They appear as one when seen from a distance. Culpepper islet, 550 feet high, has a reef off its SE. extreme. Fish and fur seal are plentiful among these northern islands.
MALPELO ISLAND.
Description. — ^Malpelo island, in latitude 3^ 69' K., lougitude 81o 34' W., and about 250 miles west of the San Juan river, is a barren, high, perpendicular rock, which may be seen in clear weather at the distance of 50 miles, the summit being 846 feet above the sea level. A small quantity of green moss and a few dwarf bushes, which grow in its cracks and gullies, afford the only verdure it possesses. It is sur- rounded by islets, and the whole may extend about 9 or 10 miles from north to south. The center of the island bears a resemblance in several points of view to the crown of a head. The strong currents in the vicinity cause the appearance of breakers, but it is believed to be steep-to, 40 fathoms being found alongside of the island, and 110 at the distance of i mile. The island has never been surveyed.
COCOS ISLAND. (B. A. Chart No. 1936.)
Description. — Cocos island, in latitude 6o 32' 67" K, longitude 87° 2' 10" W., was much frequented by whaleships. It is about 13 miles in circumference, high on the western side, and visible from a distance of 60 miles. Its southern side has not been examined, but it consists of steep rugged cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea. The northern coast is indented into small bays, with rocks and islets lying off them.
Good water is plentiful and easily procured. Fish are abundant but difficult to take, and wild pigs numerous. The cocoanut trees, formerly so plentiful, have been cut down for fuel, and few remain that are acces- sible without some trouble. There is generally a heavy surf.
410 COCOS ISLAND.
Chatham bay, on the NE. side of Oocos island, affords anchorage in about 14 fathoms i mile from the shore, with Oonic island off the eastern horn of the bay quite open of the land, beariDg S. 59^ £. (S. 66<^ E. mag.), and the sandy beach in the bight of the bay, near which is the watering place, bearing 8. 20° W, (S. 13o W. mag.). This bay is open to the north. The prevailing winds are south and SW., with occasional squalls from the NE.; these, however, are of short duration.
IVafer bay, on the west side of Oocos island, about one mile west- ward of Chatham bay, separated from it by a neck of land, is by no means such a good anchorage, having deeper water, and the heavy swell which occasionally rolls in makes landing difficult. Boat rock, small and rugged, lies off the mouth of the bay, about i mile north- ward of Swaine point.
Off Lionel head, the western part of the island, are the two Wafer islets, about | mile from the shore.
Tides. — It is high' water, full and change, in Ohatham bay at 2h. 10m.; springs rise about 10 feet. The ebb runs to the east; the flood, which is weaker, sets to the west.
The current off the island is strong and irregular, but generally run ning to the northeastward at the rate of 2 knots per hour.
CHAPTER IX.
COAST OF COLOMBIA-PORT TUMACO TO MARIATO POINT, INCLUDING
THE PEARL ISLANDS.
G^eneral description. — Oolombia, formerly the Bepublic of "New Granada, has a Pacific coast Hue which extends from Tamaco on the south to Oosta Kica on the north.
It comprises the following nine states: Magdalena, Bolivar, Panama, Oaaca, Antioquia, Tolima, Sautandar, Bojaca, and Gandinamarca. The territory has a coast line on the Atlantic side extending from the isthmns of Panama to the peninsala of Goajira and on the Pacific side as far as the parallel of 1^ 50' IST. The interior extends as far as the upper waters of the western tributaries of the Orinoco on the Venezue- lan and the northern tributaries of the Upper Amazon on the Brazilian frontier. The area of this vast region is about 504,773 square miles.
Chief towns. — Bogota, tlie capital and seat of government, with a population of about 100,000, stands on a plateau of the eastern Cor- dillera at an elevation of 8,700 feet above the sea. Colombia possesses on the Pacific no important town or seaport except Panama, which is an old Spanish town, with a negro quarter, and extensive ruins cov- ered with a thick, verdant clothing of creeping plants. Baranquilla, with a population of about 11,000, is the center of the import and export trade of all the federate states.
Productions. — Colombia possesses extensive forests. Among the trees are mahogany, cedar, fastic, and other dyewoods and medicinal plants. Its mineral productions are gold, silver, platinum, copper, iron, lead, coal, and precious stones. The agricultural products consist of tobacco, coffee, cocoa, plantains, bananas, vegetable ivory, and indigo; also wheat and other cereals.
Port charges. — Tonnage daes. — One dollar on every ton of cargo landed.
Light dues. — Five cents per register ton for the first 100 tons and 2^ cents for each ton in excess of 100.
Vessels carrying ice, brick, tiles, or in ballast are free of tonnage dues; also steamers carrying the Colombian mails.
Wind and weather. — After passing Guascama point the wind becomes more variable and the rain falls more frequently than on the coast of Ecuador. It is a very wet coast where there is abundant rain throughout the year. There are few fine days, as there is but little difference between the rainy and dry seasons. This kind of a climate
iu
412 COAST OF COLOMBIA.
is foand as far as cape Oorrientes, the prevailiDg wind being SW.^ althoagh a wind from KE. is not rare.
Between cape Oorrientes and Panama the prevailing winds are from the northwestward from October to Jane, but frequent sqnalls and wet weather from the 8W. between June and October.
Off the coast between- the imrallels of 2^ and 6° N. the winds are very light, especially in the months of March, April, and May.
Currents. — The Peruvian current divides at cape.Parihas, one branch setting to the westward and the other along this coast. It is about 00 miles broad and sets steadily, at the rate of 24 to 36 miles per day, into the bay of Panama. The meeting of such x>owerful currents as the Mexican, Pacific counter, and Peruvian currents in the great bight at Panama probably accounts for the variable weather, wi^ the tropical squalls and conflicting currents, experienced in that neighborhood.
(H. O. Chart. No. 1176.)
Port Tuxnaco, the boundary town of Colombia, is formed by the three islands of Tumaco, Viciosa, and El Morro, lying at the mouth of Laboza river, and may be recognized by the white cliff on the 1?E. end' of the latter island. The port is increasing in importance, and has con'' siderable convenience for transporting merchandise to the interior. It is well supplied with fruit, and exports timber (chiefly mangrove and cedar), coffee, hides, and ivory nuts.
The population of Tumaco in 1876 was about 1,100.
La Viuda is a small rock lying about If miles NE. of El Morro' island, and is useful as indicating the position of the entrance to port Tumaco. Farallon de Gastillo, about 60 feet high, is a similar rock 200 yards off the north point of El Morro island, to which it is con- nected at low water. There is a channel with 7 feet water in it between Yiciosa and El Morro islands, and also a boat channel from- the boca Grande.
Tides. — It is high water, ftill and change, in port Tumaco at 2hi 33m.; springs rise 12 feet.
DIrectioiiB. — ^The current in the of&ng will be found setting to the northeastward. Vessels bound to Tumaco should make Mangles point, and then run along the land until the cliff of El Morro island is seen^ and when it bears S. 54<^ E. (S. 60^ E. mag.), shape a course so as to pass midway between the Farallon de Castillo and La Yiuda rock^ keeping, if anything, nearer the former. This will lead through, a channel with not less than 12 feet at low water.
Vessels should proceed slowly, bringing the SB. point of Bl Morro island open of Vernicita point, bearing S. 46^ W. (S. 39^ W. mag.), and* steer for it on that bearing ujitil within 400 yards of the point j thence steer toward the southern shore; and when the red-topped house near the center of the town opens out (there is also a small red-topped house close to the south end of the town), steer toward the town, keeping nearly in mid-channel, borrowing a little toward the El Morro shore.
Oare must be taken not to bring the SE. point of El Morro anything
CASCAJAL P0INT — GnOASCEAMA POINT. 413
southward of S. 45^ W. (S. 39^ W, mag.), to avoid the northern end of the shoal ground on the south side of this channeL
Bl 'Morro Chioo, the S W. point of El Morro island, should be rounded at tiie difttaxiee of 100 yards, when, anchor as oonvenient. Vessels should moor in Port Tumaco.
X^ western channel leading to the anchorage is dangerous (18d4), and no longer used by the PiieifLc Steam Navigation Gompany^s vessels.
AikGlliorage.—StraDg€i?s should anchor in Tumaco I'oad in 12 fathoms, with La Viuda rock bearing S. 82^ E. (8. 88° E. mag.).
Caaticm.— ^reat care must be taken when near the extensive banks off Yiciosa and Tumaco islands, after passing Boea Grande, as they are i^eep-to, having 14 fathoms within ^ mile of thcdr edge. The chart, however, will be the best guide.
Cascajal point is 9 miles to the northward of El Morro island, the Ooast between them forming a deep but shoal bay. The point consists of a red-colored clift', with two hills over it, forming a remarkable Mature in this singularly flat country.
The coast from Cascajal point to Guascama point, a distance of about 45 miles in a NNE. direction, is a low and thickly wooded flat, forming the delta of Patia river, which reaches the sea at this })0iBt after a NW. course of 200 miles. A sand spit, which dries at low water, extends seaward 2 miles from San Ignacio bay, 11 miles uovth of Oascajal point. The whole coast between Mangles and Guascama points should be approached with great caution, as, with the exception of Bl Morro island and Oascajal point, it is a dead flat, the tree tops being the first points seen on the horizon. The lead gives but little warning, a depth of 20 fathoms being found within one mile of the banks.
Off Guascama point the bank which fronts the lowland extends 4 miles from the shore, and so runs parallel to the coast of the Ohoco bay the whole way to the Buenaventura river, a distance of 110 miles. About 5 miles eastward of Guascama point is the mouth of the 'Ban- guianga river, into which there is a passage through the breakers nearly a =mfle wide, with a depth of 5J fathoms in it. The coast from this to the Buenaventura river is flat and monotonous, with the single exception of Tortuga peak, a small wooded hill, 21 miles south of the river, and presents a most uninviting appearance, being low mangrove land converted into swamps by the overflowing of the numerous rivers. In clear weather a distant range of mountains may be seen, clothed to their summits with trees.
There are no less than fourteen mouths of rivers on* this length of the coast. These streams, although not large nor deep for a continent, still draining as they do a country of «ome elevation, send a considerable volume of water into the sea; and in the offing, freshets, rolling swells, and numerous trunks of trees are continually met with. The inhab' itants, although not numerous, are yet frequently met with, and during
414 COAST OF COLOMBIA.
the survey in 1846 a house was generally in sight, especially at the entrance of the rivers.
Current. — Inshore the flood sets NNB. and the ebb SW. by S. about 1^ miles an hour, but 40 miles from the coast there is generally a set to the NB.
G-orgona island, 24 miles ISB. by IN', of Ouascama point, is about 5 miles long '^l^E. and SSW. by i mile broad, and remarkable for its three peaks, the highest and center one being 1,296 feet high.
Gorgonilla, a rocky island, about one mile in length, lies ofl:' its SW. end, and 1^ miles to the westward of the southern point of the penin- sula is La Boca, a singular sail rock, 60 feet high. This part of the island should not be approached by a ship, as it is foul'and rocky.
Gorgona is a beautiful island, well watered, and productive where it has been cultivated. Water is good and easily obtained. The current off the island sets to the NE.
Anchorage. — The anchorage is off Watering bay, on the east side of the island, in 30 fathoms, about ^ mile from the shore.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Gorgona island at 4h. 10m.; springs rise 10 feet
Buenaventura river, in the bight of the bay of Ohoco, 75 miles N£. of Gorgona island, is a broad stream navigable by vessels drawiug 24 feet as far as the town, a distance of 10 miles from the mouth. This is a port with great nataral advantages, and promises to become a con- siderable emporium for the commerce of Colombia. There being no communication by land between Panama and Bogota, the capital^ all traffic in the Pacific must go by way of Buenaventura. The roads, however, of the interior are a great bar to its prosperity, being rugged and difficult. The town stands on the south bank, but at present it is a poor collection of houses, with a small barrack, battery, customhouse, and the residence of the governor, inhabited by negroes and mulattoes to the number of about 1,200. It has, however, a considerable trade, importing salt, garlic, straw hats, and hammocks, and exporting rum, sugar, and tobacco. It is not considered healthy, and provisions are scarce and expensive.
The Gulo de Barca and Yigia de San Pablo are two small islands lying close off the north shore outside the entrance. This shore is composed of red sandstone cliffs crowned with trees. The Vigia, which has a triangular shape, is 4 miles westward of Basan point, the north entrance point of the river, and the Gulo de Barca is 2 miles farther to the westward. There is a good stream of water in the sandy bay west of the Vigia, with a depth of 3^ fathoms, within i mile of the shore, and easy landing.
Basan point is low and wooded, with a few houses on it. Soldado point, the south point of entrance, is low and covered with mangroves. The river between these points is deep and clear, with the exception of a small shoal with 2 fathoms on it off Basan point. The northern shore
BUENAVENTURA RIVER. 415
of the river is a low wooded bank with an occasional cliflf, but the southern is a mangrove swamp intersected by small rivers, with the usual mud flat in front. Limones point appears like a bluff, the trees being higher on its extremity. Outside the entrance, southward of Soldado point, is a shoal bay, with breakers extending 5 miles from the land.
Oaptain Mohrman, of the German bark Atlanta j has written some information regarding Buenaventura as late as 1885, and says:
^'Goming from the south one makes Gorgona island and approaches the coast at Agi point to within a distance of 6 or 7 miles. At this distance the low coast is plainly visible, even though no striking laud- marks are to be seen. The current here sets northeastwardly along the coast with a velocity of a mile an hour. Having approached the coast to within the above-mentioned distance, then set the course for Piedra point or Oulo de Barca, on the northern side of the entrance to the bay, where in clear weather the coast comes in sight at a distance of 16 miles, and is easily to be recognized 5 miles distant by the red sandstone rocks. At a distance of 4 or 5 miles to the south Piedra point can be recognized, but Gulo de Barca can not be made out until it is passed. Yigia de San Pablo lies diagonally across, very near the coast, and is the same height. From Piedra point the course leads along the coast at a distance from it of one mile to Basan point.
"Yigia de San Pablo, which can be passed at a distance of 4 to 5 ship's lengths, can be made out clearly 3 to 4 miles away.
"Basan point is low and sandy, but can be made out from Vigia de San Pablo on account of several cocoanut trees and two huts which stand on it.
" Especial attention must be called to the fact that a ship must go within at least a mile of Piedra point and Oulo de Barca, on the north- ern side of the bay, as on the opposite coast, next Soldado point, sand banks, dry at low water, stretch out into the sea for from 4 to 5 miles. The charts at this part are not quite correct.
"During our stay at Buenaventura, from March to April, 1884, the changes from land to sea breeze set in quite fresh usually at 11 a. m. The land breeze, however, was faint and uncertain. . The latter fact often makes it difl&cult for a ship to leave this port. To go from Buena- ventura to Soldado point one is entirely dependent on the current, which runs out with a velocity of from 2 to 3 miles an hour."
Retriever rock, with 2 fathoms over it at low water, lies in the fairway of the north channel into the river, with Basan point lying IST. 560 E (N. 490 E. mag.), distant 1^ mUes, and Soldado point S. 6O0 B. (S. 660 E. mag.).
It is recommended to use the south channel.
Telegraph cable. — The cable is laid from Magdalena point,* north- ward of Palmas islands, passes 400 yards southward of Culo de Barca, thence south wai:d of Vigia de San Pablo, to the shore of Buenaventura.
416 COAST OP COLOMBIA.
NegnUas rodUK lying 8 miles WNW. of Galo de Barca island, and fronting Magdalena bay, tbrm a low and dangeroas reef, about 2 miles in Gurcamference, eonsisting of one large and several d^acbed rocks, nearly eovered at high water. They shoald not be approached under a depth of 10 fatiioms, especially in the thick weather so freqaeutly met with on this coast.
Tides. — ^It is high water, fall and change, off the entrance of the Buenaventara at 4h«, bnt at the town it is said to be at 6h.; springs rise 13 feet. The streams are regular, the ebb setting fairly out of the river, and running 2 knots; the first of the flood comes from the northward, and its rate is rather more than one knot.
DireK}tioiiB. — ^This river may be recognized by the red sandstone cliffs on the north shore outside the entrance, the more remarkable as they are first met with northward of Gascajal point. Large vessels bound for Buenaventura should make these cliffs, and thus avoid the shoal and dangerous bay south of Soldado point, taking care at the same time to avoid Kegrillas rocks. They should not, however, approach the cliffs within 8 miles, nor go into less than 5 fathoms, and anchor with Piedra point, the western extreme of the cliffs, bearing K. 6^ B. (l^orth mag.) and the entrance of the river N. 73° E. (N. 67^ E. mag.), or proceed up the river with Limones point, open north of Soldado point, bearing 1^. 71<=* E. (N. 65^ E. mag.), and anchor midway between Basan and Soldado points in 10 or 11 fathoms.
Small vessels may approach the land, and run along at a distance of i mile from the cliffs as far as Basan x>oint. Anchor after pas^g Arena point. It is a free-port, and vessels are not liable for any tonnage or entrance dues. There are no pilots.
Magdalena bay is a deep and spacious inlet to the northward of Piedra point. It was not examined beyond the enta*ance in the survey of 1846. Unlike the rest of this coast, its shores are cliffs of a moder- ate height, crowned with trees. It may be entered to the eastward or northward of Palmas island, but the passage to the westward between the island and Kegrillas rocks is rather shoal. The northern is the best, between the island and Magdalena point, a good leading mark for which is the northern rock oft* the island on with the south cliff of Mangrove bay, on the eastern shore of the inlet. This will lead to abreast of Magdalena point, from which all is clear, and a course may be steered to any convenient anchorage. The bank on the west side of Magdalena point has extended nearly a mile to the westward.
A rock lies in the middle of the entrance to the bay 1,400 yards from the north extreme of Palmas island, bearing N". S4P W. (West mag.).
Magdalena bay forms a snug-looking harbor, nearly 3 miles wide at the entrance and some 20 m^es deep. It is inhabited by a dozen or 4m^o indianB, speaking Spanish. The bay is studded with islets. The tide runs ebb for «even hours and flood for five.
island is small and bold, with detached rocks off each
SAN JUAN RIVER — CHIRAMBIRA RIVER. 417
extreme; the eastern and northern sides appear clear, but the sound- iqgs are shoal and irregular in the direction of the Kegrillas rocks. The channel between it and the coast to the eastward is 1^ miles wide, and forms a good entrance to Magdalena bay for vessels drawing less than 20 feet. Wood and water may be obtained.
Delta of San Juan river. — ^About 2 miles to the northward of Mag- dalena point the cliffs cease, and the low-river mangrove coast recom- mences, running in a NNW. direction to Ohirambira point, a distance of 25 miles, forming the delta of the San Juan river. The water shoals quickly on approaching the coast, there being 20 fathoms at 3 miles off shore.
The San Juan river is a considerable stream, said to communicate during the rainy season with the Atrato river (which flows into the Atlantic) by means of a canal in latitude 6o 10' N., near the towns of Oitera and Novita.
Chirambira point forms the only harbor and convenient landing place between Magdalena bay and cape Oorrientes. The point has nothing to distinguish it, a rounding series of low spits running one into the other being all that can be seen. There is a considerable set from the river, and the bottom off the entrance is uneven.
Anchorage may be had by vessels drawing less than 15 feet of water inside Ohirambira point, but the passage should not be attempted by a stranger, the tides running with considerable force and the channel not being 600 yards wide. The river is not deep inside, the principal branch only having a depth of 4 or 6 feet at a distance of 3 miles from its mouth; the water, however, is fresh half that distance. There are a few houses on the north bank and a distillery. Beef, pigs, and vege- tables can be obtained, but are dear, and two or three days* notice is required to send up the river for them.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Ohirambira point at 6h. ; springs rise 12 feet. The ebb stream is much stronger than the flood; this, however, does not extend far from the mouth of the river.
The coast from Ohirambira point trends northward to cape Oorri- entes, a distance of 73 miles; it is somewhat similar to that of Ohoco bay, being low land with numerous rivers. It is less shoal and swampy, breakers being found only off the entrance of the rivers, many of which could be entered by a boat taking the ordinary precautions for crossing the bar. The water also shoals more gradually, there being 2 fathoms generally within one mile of the beach, and occasionally much nearer. There is a low table land to the northward of the Usaraga river, about midway between Ohirambira point and cape Oorrientes; two low peaks are also seen to the northward of the Usaraga river abreast the Baudo and Oatripe rivers, about halfway to the cape; these are the only ele- vationsj as the mountain range visible in the bay of Ohoco was not seen on this part of the coast. Houses are frequently found; especially
1943— No. 89 27
418 COAST OF COLOMBIA.
at the mouths of the rivers; inhabitants, however, generally avoid communication.
Cabita bay, on the south side of cape Gorrientes, although open to the southward, forms a good anchorage and watering place. Vessels may lie in 18 fathoms about J mile from the stream in the bight of the bay. On the eastern side of the bay the bold land suddenly terminates, and a beach and low river land commences, and, with the exception of the cliffs north of the Buenaventura river and those of Cascajal point, extend as far south as the Esmeraldas river, a distance of 400 miles. About 5 miles to the SB. of the watering place is the mouth of the Jeya river, to the southward of which is a remarkable perforated rock named Iglesia de Sevira. There are a few houses in the bay, bat the inhabitants are timid.
Cape Corrientes, easily known by the dome-like peaks of Anana, about 1,500 feet high, which rise directly over it, is the first high land north of mount Monte Ohristo, and generally makes like an island from the southward. It is densely wooded from the summit to high- water mark, the almost constant rains giving a bright-green color to the peaks. Alusea point, 8 miles to the northward, forms the extreme of this remarkable promontory. There appears to be a constant north- erly set in the vicinity of the cape.
The coast from Alusea point trends to the northeastward for 14 miles to the entrance of the Nuqui river, a small mountain stream, the shore between being alternate bluffs and sandy beaches, with a fevr small streams similar to the Nuqui. About 7 miles north of the Nuqui is a cluster of high rocks 2 miles off the Chiru river, another of the mountain streams; and '3 miles to the northward of these rocks is the morro Chico, a pinnacle of a similar nature. From thence the coast runs in the same direction, high, rugged, and woody, for nearly 8 miles, to the entrance of Port Utria.
Port XTtria, to the NE. of cape Oorrientes, is a snug creek-like har- bor, about 3 miles long in a northerly direction by i mile broad, with an average depth of 12 fathoms. It is formed to the eastward of a lofty but narrow peninsula, which has two islets and some detached rocks off its south extreme. The entrance to the port is to the south- ward of these, with no hidden dangers, the shore being steep-to. The eastern side is a sandy beach running out to a spit, 2J miles within the entrance. At this point the harbor is only J mile across, but opens out after passing it, forming a commodious basin.
This port will be easily known by Playa Baia, a beach about 4 miles long fringed with cocoanut trees, to the northward of the peninsula, the land behind it being low, and its extreme is the mouth of the little Baia ' river, with a rocky islet lying off it.
Solano point, 12 miles northward of the Baia river, is a long, rocky, tongue-like projection, forming the western side of the deep bay of Solano. Extending 1 J miles from the point is a reef consisting of rocky
SOLANO BAY — OCTAVIA BAY. 419
patches, with deep water between, which should be carefully avoidedi The coast southward of this point is high and rocky, with occasional small beaches. There is a patch of rocks 600 yards from the shore about 6 miles to the southward, and the water is deep — 40 fathoms within a mile of the coast.
Solano bay is a spacious but deep anchorage formed by Solano point on the S W. and a lofty promontory, which juts out some 3 miles, on the north. It abounds in fish, wood, water, and a great quantity of wild cocoanut palms. There are also large groves of vegetable ivory. South of the north point of the bay 2 miles is a small chain of rocky islets called Sugarloaf.
Chili Ghiri bay is about 10 miles KKE. of the Sugarloaf islets. The bay is nearly 4 miles wide and over a mile deep. It is directly open to the westward. The southern half of the head of the bay is a sandy beach, with Chorito river at its southern and Chiri Chiri river at its northern end. Off the Chorito entrance are some rocks and a small islet 4 mile off shore. Along the northern shore of the bay are some outlying reefs, and a spit extends SSE. J mile from the middle point of this shore.
Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, at 3h. 30m. ; springs rise 13 feet.
V
Capica bay, 22 miles northward of Solano point, is one of the best anchorages on the coast. It was one of the points proposed for the junction of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans by means of a canal to the Naipe river.
Anchorage. — ^Vessels may anchor in any part of Cupica bay in con- venient depth of water, the bay being only exposed to southerly winds. The head of Cupica bay is a small beach 4^ miles long, at the western extreme of which is th« Cupica river. On its banks there is a small village J vegetables and fresh provisions may be obtained here. The houses are built on piles.
Cruces point is lofty, with outlying islets extending 2 miles to the southward.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Cupica bay at 3h. 30m.; springs rise 13 feet.
The current in the ofing sets to the northward.
Octavia bay. — From Cruces point the coast trends to the KN"W. 14 miles, as far as cape Marzo, which is of a similar nature, having detached islets extending IJ miles to the southward, and also a bay to the east- ward named Octavia, which, although smaller that Cupica, yet like it possesses convenient depth for anchorage. In addition to these detached islets, there are high, barren rocks of fantastic shapes lying about IJ miles to the southward of them, the passage between being deep and clear.
The coast on the western side of cape Marzo is bold and rugged, but thickly wooded, running in a northerly direction for nearly 8 miles^
420 C0A8T OP COLOMBIA.
where there are detached islets, lying one mile from the coast, with 16 fathoms inshore of them. From thence the coast bends sharply to the eastward for 2 miles, the cliffs ceasing at the mouth of the Gorredor river, a small stream easily entered by a boat, from which a continuous line of beach, with low lands behind it, extends to the N W. for 14 miles, as far as Ardita bay. On this part of the coast are the mouths of two small streams, the Ourachichi and the Ouredo, both of which are barred. This whole coast, like that to the southward, is thinly inhabited, huts being generally found in the bays and in the vicinity of the numerous small rivers. In Ardita bay, which may be known by a small islet lying off it, several canoes were seen; and some little distance inland is a village called Jorado. From Ardita bay to Pinas point, a distance of 32 miles, the coast is high, rugged, and thickly wooded, having deep water close to the shore, with the exception of two small bays about 21 miles to the northward of Ardita. The northern one, Ousgava, has convenient anchorage. There is also a beach directly south of Pinas point.
Pinas bay, about 3 miles northward of Pinas point, is the best anchorage between Octavia bay and Garachine point. It is 2 miles deep by 1^ miles wide, with an average depth of 10 fathoms, but is open to the SW., from which quarter there are occasional squalls in the wet season, which throw in a considerable swell. The head of the bay is a beach, little more than one mile in length, with low land behind it; the sides of the bay are high and rocky. Good water may be obtained from a spring running into the sea at the west extreme of the beach, protected from the sw^ by a small peninsula on its western side.
Anchorage. — ^Vessels may anchor about i mile from the watering place in 8 fathoms. In the wet season they should keep more on the west side of the bay, in 12 fathoms, with the end of the small peninsula bearing about N. by £. Off the western point of the bay are the Oentinelas, two high, barren rocks.
G-arachine or South bay.— From Pinas bay a high, bold, and wooded coast trends 35 miles northward to Garachine point, the eastern entrance point of Panama bay. About 3 miles SW. of the point is cape Escarpado, off which is an islet named Gajuala. The land over Garachine point is lofby. Mount Zapo is a sharp, conical peak rising to an elevation of about 3,000 feet above the sea. Garachine bay, 12 miles across, lying to the ]!s£. of the point, is shoal, the shore being low mangrove land, forming the mouths of the Sambu river, with mud banks, extending 3 miles from the coast. Three mouths open into the bay. At the entrance to the western is the village of Garachine, a small collection of huts. Between Garachine and Patena points is a bank 6^ miles long, with patches of 15 feet of water on it, and 4 and 5 fathoms inside; and 4 miles K 49° W. (K. 64° W. mag.) of the former point is a small patch of 4^ fathoms, with 6 and 8 fathoms close-to. Vessels may anchor close off these points in convenient depths.
OULf* OF PANAMA. 421
GULP AND BAY OF PANAMA.
(H. O. Chart No. 1019.)
General description. — ^By the isthmus of Panama is sometimes understood the whole neck of land between the continent of l^orth and South America^ generally the name is restricted to the narrow cross- ing from Panama to Oolon, or Aspinwall, the two other narrowest crossings being distinguished as the isthmus of San Bias (31 miles) and the isthmus of Darien (46 miles), l^early the whole isthmus con- stitutes a state of Colombia, extending from the frontiers of Costa Bica to those of the state of Ganca. Total population of the isthmus in 1870 was 221,062.
Garacbine point on the east, and cape Mala on the west, may be taken as the limits of what is known as the gulf of Panama. These points lie ENE. and WSW., 103 miles apart. The depth of the gulf within this line is about 80 miles, the city of Panama being at its head, and Panama bay is the space between the main and the Pearl islands.
Climate. — The geographical position of the isthmus of Panama, the absence of high mountains, and the vast extent of forests and other uncultivated parts tend t6 produce a hot and rainy climate, which, with the exception of a few localities, as Ghagres, Golon, and Puerto Gabello, is more healthy and more favorable to Europeans than that of most tropical countries. Diseases of the digestive and integumentary systems are common, and malarial fevers, often of a most pernicious type, prevail throughout the year. The rainy season is the most un- healthy, especially at its end when the weather is changing. Yellow fever has prevailed at times in an epidemic form. On board ship, Panama is the most healthy place on the coast of Gentral America. Vessels of war have remained here many months at a time, their crews continuing in a healthy state.
The wet season commences in May and lasts till November. The rainfall gradusrily increases until it is fairly established in June, and continues through July, August, and September, with strong southerly winds. In December the rains cease; the NW. and N"KW. winds set in, producing an immediate change. During the dry season regular land and sea breezes blow. The sea breeze sets in about 10.30 a. m. from SS W., and generally increases in force until about 3.30 p. m., after which it gradually subsides, and at sundown is quite calm.
About the end of June the rains are regularly suspended for a short time. The average temperature of the year is very high.
Winds. — The navigation of the approaches to the gulf of Panama becomes to a sailing vessel one of the most tedious, uncertain, and vex- atious undertakings known to the seaman. Between cape Gorrientes and Panama the prevalent winds are from the northward and west- ward, with frequent squalls from the SW. between the months of June and October. In the gulf of Panama the winds are regulated by the seasons; the prevalent wind is from the northward. In the fine season.
422 GULP OP PANAMA.
commencing in December, the winda are regular and constant, bringing fine, dry weather. To the southward of the gultthey blow much harder, and off the coast of Veragua a double reefed topsail breeze ia January and February is not uncommon. In April and May the north- erly winds are less regular and have more westings in them, with calms, light sea and land breezes, with occasional squalls from the southwest- ward. In June the rainy season sets in and the southerly winds become stronger, still the FW. wind occurs at times, and vessels sailing from Panama at all seasons will generally have a fair wind until south of cape Mala.
Between the GalApagos islands and the coast westward of the merid- ian of 800 w, and south of the parallel of 5^ K. the winds are between south and west all the year around, and, except between the months of February and June, they are of sufficient strength and duration to make navigation easyj but northward of latitude 5^ N. and between 80° W. and 110^ W. is a region of calms and doldrums accompanied by rains and squalls.
Currents. — The gulf of Panama is subject to irregular currents^ partly caused by the formation of the land and partly influenced by the Peruvian and Mexican streams, according, to the varying strength of each. Malpelo island is surrounded by atrong and rapid currents. These have been observed to set in opposite directions, sometimes to the NE. and sometimes to the 8W. A steady current has been found to set to the northward after passing San Lorenzo point, at the rate of 24 to 36 miles per day, and extending off shore about 60 miles. This stream runs along the coast, following the direction of the land, enters and makes a complete circuit of the gulf and the bay of Panama, and then sets with considerable force, especially in the dry season, to the southward down the western side of the bay.
Alter passing cape Mala it meets the Mexican current from the WNW,, causing tide rips, eddies, and the short, choppy sea met with at the entrance to the gulf.
San Miguel bay. — The entrance to this bay is 6J miles wide between the Paul rocks off San Lorenzo point on the nortt and Patena point on the south. Off San Lorenzo point is Iguana island, and 4 miles to the northward the mouth of the Congo river. From Iguana island the bay expands, being nearly 11 miles across. At 7 miles to the l^E. is Pierce point, a rocky projection on the north shore; the eastern side has plenty of water along it. Off Patena point, which is just separated from the main, there is no known danger. At 2^ miles inside this is Colorado point, bold and rocky with a conspicuous patch of reddish clay on its face, the coast between forming a bay. The land then for IJ miles gradually gets lower to Corales (Hamilton) point, when it falls back to the eastward and bends around again to the north, form- ing a bay 3J miles across, with low mangrove shores, having a village and anchorage in it. There are some ledges of rocks in this bay that
CEDAR ISLAND — ^BOCA CHICA. 423
do not always show. Great caution is necessary in using it, and a boat should first be sent in to point out the deep water.
Buey bank. — ^Buey bank is an extensive shoal, drying in patches at low water, on which a heavy sea breaks. Its inner edge lies liV miles SW. of San Lorenzo point, the passage between having 4J fathoms of water in it and generally a heavy swell. A spit with 12 feet of water extends 1^ miles off the SW. end of the bank, and as 4^ fathoms of water only are found 6 miles SW. of it, vessels should not stand in within that depth.
Marks. — Colorado point kept open of Patena point bearing IS. 50° B. {IS. 450 E. mag.) is a good mark to clear the Buey bank and also for running into San Miguel bay.
Cedar (Washington) island, nearly 3^ miles NE. of Gorales point, is ^ mile in diameter and densely wooded, with several islets and rocks south of it. The channel up San Miguel bay is northward of this island, between it and Jones island, a conspicuous little rock about 20 feet high and covered with grass.
The coast irom abreast Cedar island takes a northerly direction for about 5 mUes to Stanley island. In this space are several little bays lined with mangrove, the points generally being of small elevation, rocky, and covered with bush. The channel is between the coast and a group of islands on the west as far as Strain island, the eastern of the group. This little island is about 25 feet high, covered with trees and scrub, and surrounded by a ledge of rocks extending a short dis- tance off it toward the channel, but connected by mud banks with two islands westward of it.
Barry rock, 20 feet high and covered with cacti, lying about j^ mile from the eastern shore, contracts the channel to f mile in width. Ap- parently there is deep water all round this rock, but the passage on its west side is the most direct. The channel continues of about the same breadth to Virago point, a distance of 2J miles.
Stanley island, a low, wooded island, divides the channel into two passages, both leading into Darien harbor, the principal one, or boca Grande, being a continuation of San Miguel bay in a northerly direction past the west and north sides of Stanley island, and the other, or boca Ohica, between its southern side and Virago point. The latter channel, although much shorter, is too narrow for a sailing vessel to use with safety on account of the rapid tide.
Boca Chica has two dangerous ledges of rock at its outer entrance, one on each side, the passage between them being about i mile wide. The southern ledge (Columbia rock) lies nearly 200 yards west of Virago point, and only shows at low water, springtides. Foly rock, on the north side of the entrance, uncovers at half tide about 400 yards from the shore of Stanley island. The middle of Mary island, the north- ern of the group before mentioned, kept in line with the l^W. extremity of Jorey island, bearing S. 58^ W, (S. 53^ W. mag.), clears the rocks in
424 GULP OP PANAMA.
the entrance to boca Ohica. A small ledge runs oat a short distance from Dona Vista, the SE. point of Stanley island, haying passed which, the vessel will be in Darien harbor, and may anchor as convenient in 5 and 10 fathoms of water, sand, and mnd. The boca Ohica is not recommended unless used at slack water, for daring the strength of the tide it rans 6 or 7 knots, the eddies making the steering difficult.
Boca Grande. — The boca Grande, between the rocks outside the boca Ohica and Milne island on the western shore, is one mile broad, and continues nearly the same width for 1^ miles between Stanley island and the shore. After passing the boca Ohica, steer N. 40^ W. (K. 450 W. mag.), so as to shut in Mkry island by Milne island, and do not approach Stanley island within 600 yards. Milne island, just touching the eastern end of the islands connected with Strain island, bearing S. 3° W. (S. 2° B. mag.), is a good mark for running, and if working, when north of Milne island, tack directly Mary island opens off it on the one side and when Edith island is shut in on the other. The navigable channel at this point is f mile wide, and begins to turn to the eastward round the north end of Stanley island, narrowing to ^ mile between Bay and Jeannette islands on the north, and a large flat rock nearly always uncovered, and a little wooded island about 200 yards off Stanley island on the south; following the channel it bends back to the SE., and continues the same breadth between Ellen and Palay islands on the west and the mainland on the east mto Darien harbor.
Darien harbor extends from the boca Grande for 11 or 12 miles SE., as far as the village of Ohipigana. It is formed by the junction of the Tuyra and Savannah rivers, and the depth of water in it from Palay island as far as the mouth of the Savannah is from 10 to 4^ fathoms, beyond which there is not more than 12 to 18 feet at low water, springs. The shores of the harbor are one continuous line of mangrove, with densely wooded hills from 100 to 300 feet high a short distance inland.
Palma village appears to be built on the best spot, and has an abundance of fresh water.
Anchorage. — The best place is in from 7 to 10 fathoms, off the village of Palma, at about 600 yards from the western shore.
Vaguila rock. — The Yaguila rock, showing at about half tide, lies off the mouth of the Savannah, east If miles from Palma point, with a good channel between it and Savannah point, the west point of entrance to the river.
Produce. — ^AU tropical produce of the western hemisphere can be grown. Mahogany can be had in abundance, also the palm and india- rubber tree. Maize, rice, sugar, coffee, cocoa, yams, and plantains grow almost wild.
Climate. — The climate has its rainy and dry seasons, the former, commencing in May and lasting till November, accompanied by the winds peculiar to the gulf of Panama. The other six months of the year are fine. With common care the country is comparatively healthy.
TUYRA RIVER — PEARL ISLANDS. 425
Tnyra river. — The Tuyra river enters Darien barbor near the village of Chipigana. Above Santa Maria about 25 miles from Ghipigana the river is not navigable for craft drawing 6 feet, except during spring- tides and freshets. The rise and fall of the tide is 15 feet.
Savannah river meets the Loro river a few miles from its source, where the bottom is level with the half tide. From this point the depth increases 3 fathoms at low water^ being found 3| miles to the southward, and from thence to the mouth, a distance of 12 miles, the depth varies from 9 to 2 fathoms, over a soft, muddy bottom. The navigable entrance is nearly a mile wide between Savannah point and Haydon bank, and the shores are low mangrove land, skirted with hills from 200 to 300 feet high within 2 miles of the banks. The anchorage is in 3^ fathoms one mile NE. of Savannah point.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Darien harbor about 4h. 15 m.; mean rise and fall about 16 feet. The tides in the Narrows of Darien harbor run strong, and great care should therefore be taken.
San Jos^ bank. — This dangerous shoal, in the center of which is Trollope rock, with only 2 feet of water on it, lies in the fairway of ves- sels bound to Panama from the southward. The bank has 3^, 5, and 6 fathoms close to the rock and 7 and 8 fathoms on its outer edge; vessels should not «tpproach it within the depth of 10 fathoms.
Marks. — ^The Trollope rock may be easily avoided, either by keeping on the main shore until Garachine point bears to the southward of east or by passing about 2 miles from Galera island, taking care of the shoal patch and rocks off its southern side.
THE PEARL ISLANDS.
The Pearl islands, also known by the name of islas del Bey, Perlas islands, islas del Istmo, and islas del Colombia, form an archipelago on the eastern side of Panama bay, covering an area of about 450 square miles, and consisting of 16 islands and several rocks.
Bey island is the largest, San Jose, Pedro, Gonzales, Gasaya, Saboga, and Pacheca are of secondary, and the rest of minor, importance. There are several fishing villages about these islands, the inhabitants being chiefly engaged in the pearl fishery.
The pearl shells gathered at these islands are what are known as Panama or Bullock shells, and are shipped to San Francisco or Panama in barrels.
These islands are low and wooded, t&e soil fertile, but not much cul- tivated, and the numerous cocoanut groves and bright sandy beaches, intersected by small rocky bluffs, crowned with trees, give them a pleasant appearance.
Pacheca, Saboga, and Contadora islands, with the islets of Bar- tholomew and Ghipre, form the northern part of the archipelago, and between them is a good and capacious harbor. Saboga, the largest island, on the east side of which is a considerable village, has a reef
GULF OF PANAMA.
extendiD^ 1^ miles to the Borthward; CoBtadora has 5 fgithoms dose to its NW. shore, which is low and well adapted lor wharves.
This harbor, whieh is aboat 2 miles long by nearly one mile broad, with an average depth of 9 fathoms, has Saboga on its western side, Gonta- dora on its SE., and Pacheca and Bartholomew on its northern side, and has three entrances.
The Pacheca channel lies southward of Pacheca, between it and the reef extending from Saboga; the Gontadora channel is round the' northern part of Gontadora island, and the Saboga channel, which is shallow and not recomm^ided, is between that island imd Gontadora.
All these channels should be used with caution, as several shoal patches are reported, especially in the Saboga channel, and the sound- ings are changing.
: Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Saboga island at ^. ; springs rise 14 feet.
Chapora and Figaros, the next islands to the southward, have a 4-fathom channel between them, but the ground is foul, and it should not be used. A shoal with 13 feet water lies one mile eastward of Pajaros, and to the southward the bottom is rocky and irregular. No vessel should attempt the passage south of Ghapera island, between it and Eey island.
Caaaya, Bayoneta, and Viveros are the largest of a cluster of islands on what may be termed an extensive reef, about 8 miles l<mg by 5 miles broad, stretching off the N W. point of Bey island. There are also several islets and rocks on the reef, and the passages betweeoi them are all foul, and strong tides set through them at times. A bank 1^ miles long by f mile wide, having only 9 feet water on its shoalest part, lies nearly 4 miles eastward of the north point of Gasaya; and the Garaooles and Gangrejo isletS; with foul ground around them, lie about 2 miles off the NB. point of Viveros island.
Clearing marks-^The whole of the islands stretching to the north- westward from the northwestern point of Bey island should be avoided by vessels bound up Panama bay, by approaching no nearer on their western side than just to open the eastern part of San Jos6 island east- ward of Pedro Gonzales island, bearing S. 6^ B. (S. 11° E. mag.), while on their eastern side they should not open San Pablo, a small islet off the !NE. point of Bey idand, or bring it to bear eastward of S. 31<^ E. (8. 360 E. mag.).
Rey island is 15 miles long b^ 7 miles wide, with several peaks on it, the highest of which is 600 feet. Numerous islets, having deep water between them, lie 3 miles off its western shore, but they should not be approached by strangers within the depth of 10 fathoms. Gocos I)oint, its southern extreme, is a remarkable promontory, jutting out into the «ea, its extreme cliff being crowned by an umbrella tree (1859), which makes it conspicuous.
There are also islands off the eastern shore of Bey island, but they
ST. ELMO BAT — ^PEDRO KSIONZALEB ISLAND. 427
are steep-to and may be approached to within i mile^ with the excep- tion of Ganas island, where there is a d-fathom patch lying outside a sunken rock nearly 1^ miles from shore.
St. Elmo bay, on the east side of Gooos point, has oonvenient anchor- age in from 6 to 9 fathoms and a good stream of water at its head at Lemon point.
San Miguel, the principal town of these islands, is on the north side of Bey island. It is of some size, has a conspicuous church, but is badly situated, landing being difficult at low water. Supplies are uncertain and dear. Vessels having to lie off the town should run in between Garacoles and Ganrejo, using caution, as the bottom is irregu- lar and rocks abundant, and anchor in about 6 or 7 fathoms when the church is shut in behind Afuera, an islet lying off the town, bearing S. 290 E. (8. 340 E. mag.).
Caution. — Gare must be taken in approaching San Miguel, as the bottom is irregular, and rocks abundant.
Galera island is small, lying 7^ miles eastward of Gocos point, like which it is remarkable for its umbrella tree. A cliff' forms its southern side, sloping down to a beach on the north, and to the southward a reef runs off for nearly one mile. This island is generally the first land made by vessels bound to Panama. It should not be approached within the depth of 10 fathoms, but there is a good passage between it and Gocos point, by using which the vessel will be clear of the San Jos6 bank.
Pedro Gonaales island is separated from the rocky islets off the west side of Bey island by a broad deep channel, and has on its north- ern side two bays protected from the north by the islands of Senora and Senorita. The bays named Perry and Magidenne were examined as to their capabilities for a depot for steamers, and although not so .good nor so near Panama as the harbor south of Pacheca island, yet they still have some advantages. Trapiche island, which is connected with the shore of Pedro Gonzales island at low water, springs, by a sandy neck, divides the two bays. Off the east point of Trapiche island is a rocky ledge terminating in a shoal with 14 feet water at neaj*ly 600 feet from the point. Inside this to the southward there is a small anchorage in 4^ fathoms. A large stream of water runs into the sea on the western side of Magicienne bay. This bay is small and shoal, without the advantage of Perry bay, the eastern one, which runs backa mile. Senora and Senorita, including the shoal off their eastern side, lie nearly a mile to the northward of Trapiche island^ with a 7-fathom channel between them and steep-to on both sides.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Perry bay at 3h. 50m.; springs rise 16 feet. The tidal stream is not felt in the anchorage, but there is a considerable set off the island, the flood running to the north- ward, the ebb to the southward being generally the stronger.
.<— Yessels may pass on either side of Senora and Senorita
428 GULP OP PANAMA.
islands, taking care to avoid the shoal eastward of them, and a lookout mast be kept if going into Ferry bay for the shoal off Trapiche.
San Jo86 island, 4 miles south of Pedro Gonzales, is about 6^ miles long by 3 miles broad, and its summit forms a table-land said to be a considerable grazing ground, l^early 2 miles southeastward from Iguana point, its northern extreme, is a large waterfall flowing into the sea and forming an excellent watering place.
On the SE. side of the island is a deep bay, but as the swell sets m there with great violence, it is not convenient for shipping. Off the southern point are a number of rocks of singular and fantastic shapes, lashed by a violent surf. The western shore is bold and clif^ with a small bay near the center.
Passage rock. — This dangerous sunken rock, with 12 and 9 fathoms alongside it, lies near the center of the channel between San Jos6 and Pedro Gonzales island, which otherwise is deep and clear.
The peak next south of the highest on Bey island just open south- ward of Coco islet, one of the outlying islets off the west side of Bey, bearing N. 78^ E. (N. 73^ E. mag.), leads well southward of Passage rock. Vessels should keep between the San Jos6 shore and this mark.
THE MAINLAND.
Brava point forms with San Lorenzo point (page 422), from which it is distant 2 miles, the western point of entrance to San Miguel bay. Both these points are fringed with reefs and outlying rocks, on which the sea breaks with great violence. This fact, together with the prox- imity of the Baey bank, makes this part of the coast dangerous, and it should therefore be avoided even by small vessels.
Farallon Ingles is a small but high island lying at the edge of the shoal off Buenaventura river, about 5 miles northward of Brava point. There is 12 and 15 feet water on its western side. At 4 miles north- ward of the Farallon is Gorda point, bold and woody, with 4 fathoms close-to. There is less swell after passing this point.
The P^jaros are two small, rocky islets, 4 miles "KNW. of Gorda point, with 4 and 5 fathoms off their west sides, but only 12 feet between them and the shore. At these islets a shoal commences with 5 fathoms on its outer edge, which fronts the whole shore of Panama bay as far round to the westward as Ghame point.
Trinidad river, 2^ miles northward of the northern Pajaros, has a low, rocky projection, forming its south point of entrance. A 3-fathom channel was found in this river, extending IJ miles from the point, beyond which it was not examined. The northern bank of the river is composed of mangroves, continuing along the coast as far as Panama. Shag rock, a barren islet, with shoal water round it, lies 2J miles north from this entrance.
Mangne and Majaguay, 7 miles from the entrance of Trinidad river, are high, wooded islets, on the SW. edge of a large mud flat,
GHIMAN RIVER — CHEPO RIVER. 429
which extends from the north bank of the Trinidad river and dries at low water. There is 10 to 12 feet of water to the westward of them.
Chixnan river, northward of these islets, is wide at the mouth, bat shoal, being nearly dry at low water, with small channels for canoes. The entrance is well marked by the Mangue islets and the wooded blufifs on each side. On the eastern side, under a hill, is the small town of Ghiman.
Pelado islet, at 4 miles westward of Mangue islet, directly off the mouth of the Ghiman river, is flat, of small extent, and about 60 feet high. It has no trees, but is covered with a coarse, prickly shrub. It is steep-to on all sides, and forms a useful mark to vessels bound up the bay for Panama, who need not go inshore of it.
The coast between Pelado islet and Ghepillo island, 31 miles to the NW., is low river land with mangrove bushes. There are several small streams, the principal being the Hondo and Gorutu rivers, but both are shoal at the entrance. The land north of these rivers is of some eleva- tion. Golumn peak and Asses Ears, about 12 miles north of Ghiman river, and Thumb peak, at the west extreme of the range, are conspic- uous. Extensive mud banks, dry at low water, are from 2 to 4 miles off the coast. Outside these again the water is shoal for some distance, and vessels standing toward the main should tack in 9 fathoms.
Chepillo island lies off the mouth of the Ghepo river, about 2 miles from the coast, and is one mile long by ^ mile broad, very fertile, being low on the north side and rising by a gentle ascent toward the south, over which is a remarkable tree that forms an excellent mark to ves- sels bound up the bay. The southern point may be approached to one mile, but the other sides are shoal, a reef running off its northern point in the direction of the river.
Chepo xjver comes from some distance in the interior, having its rise near the head of the Savannah river. The entrance to the west- ward of Ghepillo island, through a 10-foot channel, is about 600 yards broad.
At the west bank of this river the mud flat recommences, and con- tinues to Petillo point, just to northward of Panama. A shoal bank lies in front of the flat, and vessels should not stand nearer than 6 fathoms between Ghepillo island and L^anama.
Panama, at the head of the bay, is the capital of the state of Panama. It stands on a rocky x>eninsula, jutting out into the shallow water of the bay, and was formerly a strongly fortified city. It has a fine appearance from the sea, the churches, towns, and houses showing above the ruins of the fortifications, standing out from the dark hills inland, and rendered still more conspicuous by mount Ancon, a hill 590 feet high, nearly a mile to the westward.
Sanitary conditions. — ^The highest and lowest temperature at the canal company's observatory on Naos island was 102° and 66° F. The most sickly parts of the year are at the changes of the seasons. It is
430 GULP OF PANAMA.
considered that the prevailing direction of the wind has some influence npon the sanitary state, that the 1S[W. winds are healthful and the SE. winds have a contrary effect. During the wet seasons the air is loaded with moisture, calms and light variable winds prevail, and it is very oppressive. The sanitary condition is bad. The habits of the people in general are filthy. Yellow fevw, remittent, bilious, and pernicious fevers are endemic, and yellow fever was considered epidemic in July, 1885. No reliable information can be obtained as to the mortality of the port. It has been reported as high as 40 per diem during the sickly season.
Hospitals. — The Foreign Hospital, built and owned by the canal company, is on high ground at the foot of mount Ancon. It is well managed and dean. It has a capacity of 500 beds; cost of occupation |2, and $5 per day for a separate room» A sanitarium on Taboga island is connected with the hospital.
The St. Thomas Hospital, in the city, is subsidized by the Govern- ment. It is not well kept and is dirty. Capacity, small; cost of occupation, $1 per day. *
Peculation. — The population in 1892 was estimated to be 15^000.
Consuls. — The United States is represented by a consul-generaL Great Britain and France have consuls at Panama, and many other countries have hont>rary consular officers.
SnppMes and water. — Provisions and supplies may be had, but it is considered unsafe to buy them, owing to the bad sanitary condition of the place and the consequent danger of infection. Lighters for the transportation of stores may be hired from the railway company. Fresh provisions can be purchased as required. Fresh beef, 12 cents; Vegetables, 10 cents ; bread, 10 cents. All kinds of fruits are obtain- able. Ice can be obtained in large quantities^ Sand is obtoined fh>m Perieo island. Good water can be obtained from th« Pacific Mail Steamship Company at Flamenco island, or from the Pacific Steam I^avigation Company at Taboga island. From this place it is brought alongside and pumped into the tanks 1^ steam pumps. The cost is 2 cents per gallon.
Coaling. laciMtias. — ^The Panama Bailroad Company, Pacific Mail Steamship Company, and the Pacific Steam Navigation Company keep on hand large quantities of coal. Of the difi'erent kinds, Cumberland, Cardifi", Welsh, ISew Castle, and Australian coal can be obtained, though it is said the' steamship companies will not part with any coal when it can be purchased elsewhere. The coal is delivered alongside^ the lighters holding from 150 to 250 tons. The cost per tcm is from $13 to $17. Coal may be obtained directly from the ship or collier, which, greatly lessens the danger of fever.
Telegraph, and postal commnnicatian. — ^Panama is connected with South American and Central American ports by the Mexico, Central, and South American cable, also by a land line to Colon and thence by
PANAMA. 431
cable to Jamaica and the West Indies. The line to the United States goes via city of Mexico and Oalveston, Texas. Postal communication to the United States and Europe is by Pacific mail and other steamers from Colon ; for Central America, Mexico, and San Francisco by the Pacific mail steamers from Panama, and for South American ports by steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Mails from the United States are irregular at times.
Steamer line&-^There are five lines of steamers which make Panama their terminal point, viz :
(1) The line from Panama to San Francisco, twice a month, calling at Central American and Mexican ports.
(2) The line from Panama to Acapulco, Mexico, once a month, calling at way ports.
(3) The line from Panama to Champerico, once a month^ calling at way ports.
These lines are owned and managed by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company of New York.
(4) The line from Panama to Callao, weekly each way, calling at way ports.
(5) The line from Panama to OuayaquJl, once a month and on her return :&om Panama to Tumaco.
The last two lines are owned and managed by the Pacific Steauir Navigation Company of Liverpool, England.
Esportff and port duties. — The commerce and trade of Panama naturally divide themselves into two branches, viz, that which is local- and that which is in transit. The transit trade is also divided into two parts — ^that to and from the United States and that to and from Europe.
The local ex{>orts are india rubber (growing scarcer), gold dust, hides, ivory, nuts, mangan^se^ shells, tobacco, cocobolo (a cabinet wood), tortoise shells, vanilla, whale oil, sarsaparilla, cocoanuts, and fruit.
From South America the bulk of the shipments consist of bark, cot- tim, cocoa, and rubber. From the Central American states,, coffee, sugar, and indigo.
Th^e is a captain of the port, and also a health officer. These officers board all incoming vessels. The quarantine station is near Taboguilla island. Pilots are not required. The police force is inefficient,
Panama is nominally a free port, but import duties are levied on tobacco in all its forms, salted or pres^ved meats, wines and spirits, ale, beer, ginger beer, cider, salt, etc. In shippmg stores for naval ves- sels on the coast to the care of the consul-general at Fa/naina^ it is abso* lutely necessary that they should be accompanied by complete invoices, stating contents of each package, the weight thereof, and tiie cost value.
Small parcels must also be accompanied by a statement of contents and value, addressed to the consul-general or to the person to whose care they are consigned.
432 GULF OF PANAMA.
L — ^A fixed red light is shown on end of railroad wharf, and is visible 3 miles.
An electric light, shown on SE. bastion at Panama, is utilized as a leading light by the Pacific mail steamers, giving them at night the direction of San Jos6 rock by shutting the light out behind the rock.
The light is made on rounding Taboguilla, being then distinctly visible in ordinary weather.
The light is maintained by the city to illuminate the promenade on the wall. It is a fixed light, elevated 64 feet above low water mark, and shown from a pole erected 100 feet north of the corner of the SE. bastion. It is the highest electric light seen from the bay.
Docks and machine shop. — ^There are no docks at Panama, nor any Government docks near by. The Pacific Mail Steamship Company have a small machine shop on Naos island for repairing vessels of their line, and the Pacific Steam Navigation Company have one at Taboga island for the same purpose. The gridiron at Taboga is the only means of repairing vessels' hulls.
Landing place. — The general landing place at high water is around Buey point, inside the NE. bastion, at the market place known as ^^the steps." Great care is required when landing at Panama in steam cutters or other heavy boats, which can only be effected at nearly high water. Boats should pass southward of the outer white beacon, and leave all the other beacons on the port hand when going in.
Official calls and salutes. — ^The only native authorities to be called upon are the president of the state of Panama and the president of the Kepublic, who is seldom in Panama. There are no saluting facilities.
The Panama ship canal, to connect the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, is under construction between Colon and Panama. On the Pacific slope it will descend the valley of the Bio Grande, and be continued seaward to the island of Perico. Total length is 54 miles.
The Panama railway, from Panama on the Pacific to Colon or Aspinwall on the Atlantic, is 47 miles long.
Panama road. — Petillo point, 1^ miles !NE. of Panama, is a black, rocky promontory with two small hills over it, between which is a rivulet admitting boats at high water. Bocky ledges extend 300 yards from the point. The shore between Petillo point and Panama forms a bay nearly J mile deep, its head being mud, edged with a sandy beach. A great portion of the bay is dry at low water, springs. It is termed "El Puerto,'^ and it is here that most of the minor trade of the gulf is carried on by means of large canoes. These canoes, though of clumsy appearance, are well fitted for the navigation of the gulf, and bring most of the tropical productions of the isthmus of Panama.
Buey point, only seen at half tide, forms the southern horn of this bay and the northeastern point of the long rocky ledges that surround the eastern and southern shores of the peninsala of the city. These
GUINEA POINT — FLAMENCO ISLAND. 433
ledges extend 900 yards from the NE. bastion, 1,000 yards from the SE. bastion in an easterly direction, and 500 yards in a southerly direction, forming a bay southward of Buey i)oint on which is easy landing after half flood on the sandy beach. From the commencement of the suburbs, on the southern side, another ledge runs off for nearly f mile, SE. of which are Los Hermanos, three black rocks visible at firjst quarter ebb. Detached rocks with 3 and 7 feet of water between them, visible only at low water, springs, lie off the SB. extreme of the rocks, the outer one being 600 yards from the reef.
G-uinea point, 2 miles SW. of Panama, is the northern extreme of a large, round, hilly projection, which forms the western side of Panama road. Between it and the city of Panama are the mouths of the Grande, San Juan, and Farfan, • small rivers with cultivated banks. The water on this side of Panama road is shoal as far as Tortola and Tortolita islands, which lie 2 miles southward of Batele point, the south extreme of the hilly projection above mentioned. One mile ESE. of Batele point is Ohangarmi island, surrounded by the Pulperia reefs, and SW. of the point are Bruja and Yenado points, rocky and project- ing, with the outlying islets of Cocovi and Cocoviceta. Although these dangers are mostly above water, yet this part of Panama bay should be avoided.
Naos, Perico, and Flamenco, and the ou-tlying rock of San Jos^, are a group of islands forming the south side of Panama road.
The passage between Perico and Flamenco is shoal and should not be used, but that between Flamenco and San Jos6 is deep, and both islands are steepto.
Naos is the headquarters of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. The bay to the NE. forms a convenient anchorage. The isthmus on this side is sandy and steamers of 2,500 tons and upwards have been easily beached. Large vessels drawing over 20 feet may coal at Perico. Coal is brought off' in lighters. Vessels using the anchorage should, after passing Flamenco, keep close round the north end of Perico and anchor when the isthmus opens. Attention must be paid to the state of the tide. As before mentioned, fresh water, coal, and supplies from the mail company may be obtained here.
The dredging of the canal company has practically closed the chan- nel west of Naos island and this has thrown the current down past Perico island. It is now practicable to go with large ships quite near the island, and vessels drawing over 24 feet can anchor to the north and NNE. of Perico.
Danaide rocks. — These patches of conical rocks have only from 15 to 18 feet on them and 3J and 4 fathoms on all sides. They lie awk- wardly in the track of vessels standing in for the anchorage. This spot is a favorite fishing place and vessels should avoid canoes seen in its vicinity, as they are probably fishing on the rocks.
Sulphur rocks.^This dangerous reef, 1,200 yards long by 600 yards 1943— No. 89 ^28
434 GULF OF PANAMA.
broad, has a rock awash in its center with 6 and 9 feet around it and oatlying patches of 12 and 14 feet. The railroad flagstaff on with the center of Ancon bearing N. 89° W. (8. 86^ W. mag.) leads to the northward of the reef in 15 feet, but this passage should not be used at low water, springs. The Hermanos rocks, in line with a round peak over the Grande river, leads to the anchorage in 18 feet.
The Knocker and Taboga rocks have only 6 feet of water on them. The Knocker lies nearly one mile S. 89° E. (F. 86^ E. mag.) of the SE. bastion; the Taboga rock lies a little more than 400 yards to the SW. of the Knocker, with 16 feet of water between them and 12 feet inshore of them. A red can buoy is moored on the SE. side of this rock. No stranger should attempt to pass west of the buoy.
Caution. — The buoys in Panama road are not to be depended upon.
Taboga island, with the islands of Urava and Taboguilla, forms a pleasant group, situated 9 miles southward of Panama. Taboga, the highest and largest, 935 feet above the sea, is well cultivated, with a considerable village on its KE. side. Northward of the village is the morro of Taboga, a small hill connected with the main island by a sandy neck covered at high water.
This was formerly headquarters of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, which still has here some stores, a water tank with abun- dant supply of water, and a gridiron 300 feet long.
The anchorage off the village is convenient, being about 600 yards from the shore in 10 fathoms.
Urava is a small lofty island separated from the SE. point of Taboga by a narrow and shoal channel; off its extreme is the small islet of Terapa.
Taboguilla, 710 feet high, also well cultivated, has some islets off its SW. extreme, and forms the NE. island of the group, having a wide and deep channel between it and Urava.
In the center of this channel is a rock which is said to uncover 4 feet at low springs. The sea seldom breaks over it at high water, and it must be carefully avoided by closing either island, both being steep-to, or vessels may pass south of it by keeping the neck of the morro open, bearing N. 65^ W. (N. 60° W. mag.). Farallon, a small islet, also lies in this channel, but it is steep-to, with 11 fathoms between it and Taboguilla.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Panama road at 3h. 23m.; springs rise from 15 to 20 feet, neaps from 10 to 15 feet.
The flood tide usually sets to the northward and eastward, the ebb to the southward and westward, and runs in strength according to the winds and seasons of the year from J to 1 J knots per hour. The ebb is stronger than the flood. The long swell which occasionally sets into the road always ceases with the flowing tide. It has been remarked by the officers of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company that there is more rise in the small bay north of the town and also in their own anchorage than in the more open parts of the roadstead.
PANAMA — ^DIRECTIONS — CHAME BAY. 435
Commander W. H. Whiting, commanding the TJ. S. 8. Alliance^ reports that, when approaching the anchorage at Panama road, after passing Tabognilla island and before reaching San Jos6 rock, the current caused by the flood tide was found to be very strong, setting the ship nearly a mile to the westward of her course.
The flood tide sets usually through the islands and to the "NW.y while the ebb chooses the same channels, but runs to the south and west. Due allowance should be made for these tidal currents.
Directions. — Panama road, although shoal, may be considered secure. With good ground tackle and common precaution a vessel might lie there all the year round with one anchor down. The bottom, being muddy, holds well. Attention to the tides and soundings will enable a vessel to lie close in at times for discharge of cargo.
The inner anchorage is in 2 fathoms about a mile off shore. The outer anchorage is in 3^ to 4 fathoms about 2 miles off shore. Yessels drawing over 18 feet may round the SB. side of Danaide rocks safely by keeping San Jos6 rock open of the west point of Taboga island bearing S. 37^ W. (S. 32° W. mag.) until the cathedral towers are open to the eastward of mount Ancon. Having passed the Danaide rocks the ship will be fairly in the road and may anchor according to her draft. Hermanos rocks, visible at first-quarter ebb, in line with the hill between Grande and Farfan rivers, bearing S. 84^ W. (S. 79^ W. mag.), lead northward of Danaide rocks. Vessels drawing over 20 feet may anchor to the NE. of Perico.
' The coast southwestward of Panama, between Bruja point and Ghame point, a distance of 16 miles, forms a shoal bay having several outlying banks and rocky islets. Yessels bound to Panama should keep near Taboga island, and not approach this shore within the depth of 6 fathoms. Vique cove, in which is a small village, is 6 miles west- ward from Bruja point. About one mile KB, of Yique is a treble-peaked hill, named Gerro de Gabra, 1,610 feet high, a conspicuous object to vessels bound to Panama, and frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from the eastward. Yacamonte point, the western side of Yique cove, is the only break in the mud flat which fronts this land, extending nearly 2 miles from the shore.
Melones island is a small rocky islet 2^ miles KW. of Taboga, and Melones rock, above water, lies about i mile northward of it. The island is steep-to, but vessels should be carefiil not to pass westward of it.
Chome isalnd, with Perique rock, of a similar character to Melones, is 2J miles southward of Taboga. Yalladolid is a large rock, nearly 2 miles SW. of Ghame island, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to it.
Chaxne bay, at the head of which is a small river of the same name, is nearly filled by large mud banks, the largest, named Gabra Loma, lying in the middle, with Tabor isle on it. Ghame point, the southern horn of this bay, is a low, woody promontory, jutting into the sea, 5 J miles long by ^ mile broad. Between it and Gabra Loma bank is a
436 GULF OF PANAMA.
convenient harbor, 2 miles in length by about f mile wide, with from 8 to 3 fathoms of water iu it and from 16 to 18 feet close to the beach of Chame point. Northwest of the river is a high range named Sierra Cax)ero, and to the southward are the Cerro Ghame^ a group of wooded hills.
Otoque and Bona <gia«iia with Estiva island and Bedondo rocks, 6 miles SE. of Chame point, form a group similar but somewhat smaller than Taboga and Taboguilla, being cultivated, and having a consid- erable village, named La Ooleta, in the bay on the western side of Otoque island.
Otoque and Bona are high and peaked, and form good landmarks for vessels entering this side of the bay. There is anchorage in from 10 to 14 fathoms in any part, of the grqjap, as all dangers are above water.
Parita bay, nearly 20 miles wide and open to the eastward, lies 45 miles to the SW. of Ohame point, and the coast between is a continu- ous beach, named Playa Grande, in front of a low wooded bank. There is a depth of 4 and 5 fathoms about 2 miles off this beach, except S. 220 E. (S. 27^ E. mag.) of the Cerro Chame, where there are only 4 fathoms nearly 7 miles from the land, the bank extending from that to Chame point. To avoid this bank, vessels from Parita bay should shape a course to x>ass about 2 miles southward of Bona island until Taboguilla is nearly touching Otoque, bearing N. 22° E. (N. 17° B. mag.), when they may steer up the bay inside, but nearer to the islands.
The mud fiats are found again on the western side of Parita bay, the coast being a low mangrove shore, intersected by the mouths of no less than five small rivers. The land to the westward is also low, with sev- eral hummocks. At Lisa point, on the south side of the bay, the hard bank with sandy beach in front a^ain commences, and continues as £ir as cape Mala, a distance of 38 miles, the coast trending to the SE.
Iguana island, lying about 9 miles to the northward of cape Mala, is a little higher than the adjacent coast, and thus forms a conspicuous object. A ledge extends about 600 yards from its southern and also from its eastern point, and in 1858 a reef was reported to stretch to the KKE. from its north point, with 15 fathoms in the channel of about one mile in width between it and the main.
Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Iguana island at 4h.; springs rise 15 feet. The flood sets to the northward and the ebb to the SE., the latter being considerably the stronger, especially between the months of December and June.
Cape Mala, which forms the western point of entrance to the gulf of Panama, is a low but clifly point with outlying rocky ledges, having deep water close to them. The land from the NW. slopes gradually down to the sea at this point from a considerable distance, making the exact cape difficult to distinguish, unless the breakers are seen. On opening the gulf around this cape a strong southerly set is generally experienced, especially in the dry season.
CAPE MALA — ^MARTATO POINT. 437
North and South Fraile are two low, barren islets, lying WSW. and SSB. 24 miles from each other and 11 miles SW. of cape Mala. A reef extends aboat 200 yards off the NW. point of the southern islet, bat with that exception they are steep-to, having from 20 to 30 fathoms within J mile of the rocks. This, however, makes them dangerous to vessels keeping under the land of cape Mala to avoid the current in the thick, squally weather of this coast.
Monro Puercos. — The coast from cape Mala trends southwestward, and continues low for 22 miles to Guanieo point. From this point it gradually rises for 7 miles, to morro Puercos, a lofty headland which forms the commencement of a range of high coast land. A 3-fathom patch lies about 3 miles i^E. of the morro, and 4 miles westward of the morro is a reef of rocks above water lying one mile from the shore. I^ortheast of Guanieo point is an open bay, into which two small rivers, the Tomosi and Juera, empty. There is a patch of rocks close to the shore in the KW. part of this bay and another off Raia point at its eastern side.
Mariato point is a bold headland at the termination of the high land which commences at the morro Puercos. The point is 27 miles westward of the morro, and the water off this coast is deep close to the rocks, no bottom being found with 100 fathoms within 3 miles of the shore. At 5 miles KW. of Mariato point is Karanjas island, a rugged and rocky but wooded islet, lying about ^ mile westward of a blnff, northward of which the low land again commences, the coast trending to the northward toward the great bay of Montijo.
Landfall. — Mariato point is a good landfall for vessels bound to Panama from the westward, as by keeping under this land they will avoid the southerly set out of the gul£
Passages. — ^Bonnd to Panama. — ^The passage from the southward into the gulf of Panama is easily made during the greater part of the year by keeping abont 60 miles from the coast north of Guayaquil, and after crossing the line shaping a course for Galera island, at the same time taking care, especially in the dry season, to stand inshore with the first northerly wind. By so doing vessels will most probably have the current in their favor along the coast, whereas by keeping the center or on the western side of the gulf a strong southerly set will be expe- rienced. After making Galera and clearing the San Jose bank, the nav- igation between the Pearl islands and the main is clear and easy, with the advantage of being able to anchor should the wind fail or the tide be against the vessel. As a rule this passage should be taken, but with a strong southerly wind the navigator is tempted to run up the bay, in which case he should still keep on the western shore of the Pearl islands, where anchorage and less current will be found should the wind fail, an event always to be expected in these regions. Between Chirambira point and cape Corrientes the land is low and faced with shoals, caused by the numerous rivers which have their outlets on this part of the
438 COAST OF COLOMBIA.
coast; but after passing cape Gorrientes it may be approached pretty closely except off Solano iK)int, where some rocky shoal patches extend to seaward, as the coast in general is bold-to. Gare, however, should be taken not to ran into the calms caused by the highland^ as it is diffi- cult to get off into the breeze again, and the swell sets inshore, where it frequently happens that no anchorage is to be found till close to the rocks.
In beating up the bay of Panama in the fine season the eastern pas- sage, or that between the Pearl islands and the main, is to be preferred, as, with one exception, it is free from dangers. The water is smooth and a regular tide enables you to make more northing than it would be possible to do in nine cases out of ten against the strong current and short high sea which at this season prevails in the center or western side. During the rainy season a straight course up the bay is prefer- able to entangling yourself with the islands, the current generally following the direction of the wind.
Vessels bound to Panama from the northward should make the island of Hicaron, which lies about 50 miles westward of Mariato point, and from this endeavor to keep under the land as far as cape Mala. If unable to do this they should push across for the opposite coast of the continent, where the current will be found in their favor, or, getting eastward of cape Mala, the safest plan is to shape a course for Galera island and to use the eastern passage. At the same time, if tempted up the gulf by a fair wind, vessels should endeavor to get on the western coast of the Pearl islands, which have the advantages already explained.
Bound from Panama. — ^The great difficulty, however, is the passage out or rather from Panama bay.
The best plan for all sailing vessels, whether bound north or south from Panama, is to push to the southward and gain the SE. trade- winds; by so doing they will not only avoid the doldrums and vexatious winds, but will have the additional advantage of salubrious weather, with the sea at a temperature of 75^ instead of 85^ p.
The passage to the northward has been made by keeping close in- shore after passing cape Mala and navigating by the land and sea breezes, but this should only be attempted by vessels that are well found and manned, unless bound to the ports of Gentral America, when it is the only route.
The passage to the westward during the rainy season is a most tedi- ous affair; calms, squalls, contrary winds and currents, a heavy swell, and extreme heat, as well as an atmosphere loaded with moisture and rain, are the daily accompaniments. It often occurs that 20 miles of westing is not made in a week, and it is only by the industrious use of every squall and slant of wind that the passage can be made.
The following directions, the best for sailing vessels, are by Lieutenant Maury, United States Kavy:
" From Panama bay a vessel should make the best of her way south
PANAMA PASSAGES. 4^9
until she gets between latitude 5° K. and the equator; on this course let her endeavor to keep near the meridian of 80^ W., and from this make a SW. course if the winds will allow. Should the wind be 8W. stand to the southward, but if 8S W. stand to the west, if a good work- ing breeze; if the wind be light and baffting, with rain, the vessel may know that she is in the doldrums, the quickest way to avoid which is by getting to the southward.
"From latitude 2° N., between June and January, vessels may stand off from the coast to the westward and pass northward of the Galapa- gos islands, taking care to keep to the southward of 5^ N. As far as 850 W. they will have South and SSW. winds, but after passing that meridian the wind will haul round to the southward, and vessels bound to the South Pacific may consider themselves fairly in the trade. Ves- sels bound northward, after passing meridian of 105°, may edge away for the Clipperton rock, after passing which they may push to the northward for the northern trade.
"Between January and April it may be better to cross the line between the GaMpagos islands and the coast before pushing to the westward. This may probably take a week, which outlay of time, however, is far preferable to encountering the vexatious weather met in that season north of the Galdpagos.
"In this route it must be remembered that southward of latitude lo N". the wind hauls to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast, and in the meridian of 83^ W. it is frequently found eastward of south; but at the same time vessels in standing off before crossing the equa- tor must take care to avoid being driven to the northward of that latitude. In fact, there are few passages in which so much depends on the skill and experience of the navigator as in leaving the gulf of Panama.
"Vessels bound to the northward in the above season should keep south of the line until westward of 105° W., when a course may be shaped for 10^ K. and 120^ W., in which track they will probably find the northern trade.''
The above difBiculties will be easily avoided by steamers. They may at once proceed to the starting points mentioned before. The best plan will be to steam for the meridian of 85° W. on the equator, from which position a course may be shaped according to destination and season of the year.
INDEX.
A. Page.
AbiDgton island 408
anchorage 408
Aboni point 216
tides 216
ApTA (of Sarmiento) channel 37, 91
island 91
Abrigado port 169
Abtao channel 221
cove 313
island 221
port 221
rock 155,314
Acari morro 344
port 343
Achilles bank 204
Achira point 260
Aconcagua volcano 266
Acui island 217
Adalbert channel 162
Adam island 157
Adelaide passage 32
Adeona rock 125
Admirality sonnd 70
Adventure bay 194
cove 28
pass 29
Afaera islet 427
Agents, H. O., List of 493
Agi point 415
Agnes islands 34
Agua Clara 393
Dulce cove 310
peak 311
point 317
Fresca bay 76
Saladacove 310
Aguada point 251, 399
Agiiantao reef 214
tides 214
Agui point 202
light 202
Agniire bay 20
Aguja point 377
danger 377
Pag©.
Ahorcados islets 395
Aid basin 145
Ains worth harbor 70
Altai cape 216
Alacran island 327
Alala cove 317
point 317
Alao island 211
Albany island 407
Albatross channel 162, 164
harbor 170
port 162
Albemarle island 407
point 408
reef 408
Alcalde point 292
Aldrich islands 149
Aldunate channel 192
inlet 176
Alert harbor 148
anchorage 149
directions 149
supplies 149
tides 149
rock 121
Alfred point 68,192
Alfredo hill 127
Algarrobo road 265
village 265
Algodonales bay 318
point 318
Aligator's snout island 135
Alikhoolip cape 29
Allard point 154
A.lquilqua bay 96
Altamirano port 115
Alto de Salazar 351
Altos de Caucato.' 350
Alusea point 418
Alvaro point 155
Alvizuri islets 338
Alzerreca bank 124
Amargos bay 240
point 240
441
442
INDEX.
Page.
Amarilla point 257
Aviazonas shoal 205
Americimo moantain 196
port 196
Amnistia bank 222
Amortajada island 386
light 387
tides 389
shoals 387
morro 232
Amotape mountains 380
Ampa gully 317
point 317
Anacachi rook 298
Analao islet 191
Anana peaks 418
Anclade Manao 208
Ancla point 242
Ancon 360
bay 359
del Sudueste 141
mount 429
SinSalida 126
Ancona de Tamasoo oove 101
Ancnd 202
gulf 220
tidal wav^e 230
tides 230
Andes fort 267
Andrew sound 133
Andrews bay 82
Anegada point 61
Anegadiza point 247
Angamos island 168
point 314
rook 193
Angle hill 62
island 153
Angostoport 92
anchorage and directions 93
tides 93
Angot cove 28
Anita rock 135
Anjeles point 267
caution 267
light 267
Anna Pink bay 188
Anne breakers 144
Anson mount '. 165
rock 84
Antarotique rook 374
Antofagasta 311
anchorage 312
communication 311
directions 312
Antofagasta light 311
road 311
supplies 311
telegraph 311
winds 312
Antoine bay 121
Anton bay 143
Antrim inlet 152
Ants rocks 359
An unciada point 132
Anvil mount 306
Anxious point 73
Apabon point 216
reef 216
caution 216
•
Apiao island 211
Apolillado cove 291
Apostles rocks 38
April peak 146, 172
Aranta cove 340
Arathoon bay 90
Arauco 252
province 248
bay 251
tides 252
patch 77
Arauz bay 112
point 112
Arcana mount 374
point 373
Arce bay 101
Arditabay 420
Arena point 202,256,388,416
buoy 389
light 388
Arenas point 12,75,319
Arequipa 337
rock 295
volcano 336
Ariadne point 73
Arica 327
head ...-. 327
road 327
anchorage 327
climate 328
landing 327
supplies 328
to southern ports 328
Armingen islands 161
Arragon island 144
Arrayancove 289
Artesas point 272
Arthur island 89
islands 134
Artillery bay 131
INDEX.
443
Page.
Asoope 370
Ascnnsion island 196
Asia island 351
Askewpoint 77
Asses ears 60,429
Astr^erock 110
Atacames bay 399
directions 400
tides 400
ledge 399
river 399
supplies 399
vmage 399
Atahnanqni point 362
Atico point. 341
road •. 342
tides 342
Atlquipa valley 342
Atrato river 417
Atrial beacon 240
rock 240
Aalen channel 228
island 228
point 228
Anqne point 220
Anrora gorge 325
Avanzada point 240
Awaiakirrb cove 22
Ayangae point 395
Ayantaa islands 165
Aymond mount 60
Aysen estuary 196
Azapa valley 328
Azua point 346
B.
Baoalao point 807
Bachem bight 169
point 164
Back harbor 19
Bad bay 177
Bahia 397
deCimeros 101
deRomay 76
Baia river 418
BajaMarta 68
(Low) point 314
rock 267,391
buoy 267
de el Chile 376
B%jasiK>int 360
Bi^odeAfuerabuoy 389
Bajos de Chigualoco 279
Baker cove 95
islands 143,164
Pagci
Balcacura heights 204
point 202
Baleines bay 22
Ballenacove 240
point 304
port *... 196
rocks 229
Ballenasport 166
Ballenitabay 304
point 394
Ballesta islands 347
Balsamo mountains 397
Bandera bay 236
Bandurria cove 314
point 317
Banks bay 408
Bannen channel 124
Banner cove 21
shoal 25
Barba island 193
Barbara channel 32,87
directions 32
tides 32
port 173
directions 173
tides 173
Barbarossa channel. 164
Baroelo bay 101
Bare rooks 156
Barnacle reef. •••.••... 65
Bameabay 283
Bamevett island 23
Barr point Ill
Barranca bank • 62
bay 363
beacon 62
head 363
point 62
port 362
river 363
Barrancas cove 313
ravines 321
Barranco cove 187
point --- 264
Barranquilla cove 297
point 297
Barrington islands 407
Barrister bay 37
Barrow head 31
Barry rock 423
Bartholomew island • 425
Basan point 414
Bascunan cape •• 292
Basil Hall port 16
supplies 17
444
INDEX.
Paga
Basket island 29
Bass rock 308
Batchelor hill 91
river 84
Batelepolnt _ 433
Bates cove 91
Baudo river 417
Baverstock island 123
peak 124
Baxa point 62
beacon 63
shoal off 63
Bayly island 25
Baynes island 31
Bayoneta island 426
Beacon mound 102
Beagle channel 21
anchorages 21
harbor 114
directions 114
tides 114
hills 114
island 171
mountains 361
Beaubasin port 85
Beanchamp inlet 158
Beaufort bay - 25,111
Beaufoy mount 27
Beaulieucape 18
Bedford bay 32
Bedwell island 123
Beguetabay 362
Belenbank 258
beacon 258
Bellavista 318,354
Bellbay 86,105
mount 367
mountain 20
of Quillota 266
Beilaca point 397
Beloe heights 109
Belvedere 383
Bending cove 113
Benito inlet 174
Bennet point 114
Berkeley cape.- 408
Bermejo point 363
port 134,363
directions 363
Bernal point 359
Besselrock 126
Bethune mount 147
Beware island 101
point 345
Bien Conocido shoal 217
Page.
Big Borja island ^ 101
island 106
Bindloe island 408
Bio Bio paps 255
river 255
Birch islands 142
Bird island 366
Bishopp island 158
Bister island 191
Black Beach road 406
hill 66
island 191
islet 37
Mary harbor 19
river 176
rock : 105,148,365
Blanca cove 318
island 277,348,367
point 129,272,318
reef 367
rocks 367
Blanco cape 381
Encaladaroad 310
islet 314
point 320
shoal 394
Blaxland island 105
Bluff peninsula 145
Boat island 27
rock 410
BocaChica 423
channel 250
caution 250
current 251
deCanales 174
de Pan cove 382
del Barco cove 279
Grande 402,424
Jambeli 387
light 387
Manle rock 255
Bocarripe head 247
Bodegas (Guayaquil) 391
Bodudahue river 229
Bogota rock 275
Bold head 153
Bolfin cove 311
Bolivar rock 282
Bolton bluff 113
Bona island 436
Bond point 138
BonduCi* island 129
Bono island 133
Bonet islands 86
Bonifacio cove 244
INDEX.
445
Page.
Bonifacio morro 243
Boqueron cape 70
mount. ^ 73
of CaUao 358
directions 358
tides 358
of Pisco 347
Borjabay 85,100
directions 100
tides 100
island 100
Borrachos point 398
Boesi bight 149
Boston island 118
Boncbage bay 79
Bougainyille bay 80
Boundary beacon • 60
Boumand bay 80
Bowlder reef 114
Boxerspit 82
Boyce island 103
Boyle rock..... 103
Bradbury rock 123
Bradley cove 86
Brassey pass 146
directions 146
tides 146
Brattle island , 408
Brava point 428
Bravezas. 323
BrazoAncbo channel 152
point 139
del Norte 147
peninsula 141
Brea mountains 380
Breaker coast ..^ 36
Breakpot rock 256
Breaksea island 173
Brecknock pass 29
peninsula 29
Brennan point 339
Brenton sound 72
Brinkley island 126
Brisbane bead 27
Broderip bay 33
Bromley mount - 137
Brooke cove 92
Brookes barbor 70
Brown bay 32
— island 163
point 107,146
Bruja point 433,435
Bmjo cove 372
Bryson point 303
Bttcalemo head 264
Pȣe.
Bnchnchen point 238
Bnchupureo road 260
Buckland mount 17,72
Buckley point 120
Budi lagoon 245
Bneirock 267
buoy 267
Buena cove 324
light 325
Buenaventura river 414
directions 416
telegraph 415
tides 416
Bueno river 237
signals 237
Buey bank 423
clearing marks 423
point.... 432
rocks 258
Bufadero cliff 364
Buitre point 310
rock 309
Bunche river 399
Burca point 260
Burdoes rock 255
Burges island 147
Burgess island 87
Burgoyne bay 120
Barney mount 123
Burnt Forest hill 138
island ...-..- 29
anchorage 29
Burrage point 144
Burro point 280
rock 380
Burt rock 340
Butler bay 88
Button island 23
islet , 148
Byatt island 144
Bynoe cape 170
island 30
islands 173
point 173
Byron bay 94
island 165,173
C.
Caballos Nazoaroad 345
Cabancha cove 322
point 322
Cabeza de Vaca point 301
Norte buoy 389
Cabitabay 418
446
INDEX.
Page.
Cabra Loma bank 435
Cachina hillock 276
Cacbos point 296
Caffinpass 140
Caguacbe island 211
Cahuelmo inlet 229
Cahuil 263
lake 263
Calcaen channel 222
Caicnra island 225
Cailin island 219
CiyaChica 298
Grande 298
Calan point 260
Calaverahead 351
Calbuco channel 224
commnnication 223
island 223
port 223
tides 223
town 223
Caldera point 300
port 300
anchorage 301
coal 301
hospitals 301
light 300
supplies 301
telegraph 301
wreck 300
Caldereta peninsola 299
Calderilla port 299
Calenport 211
Calera 270
Calota point 267
Calfaco point '. 243
Callao 353
anchorage 357
bay 353
climate 355
-r— coal 356
directions 357
dues 358
landing 354
lights 356
point..- 353
port regulations 354
supplies 355
telegraph 355
to Valparaiso 333
yellow fever 355
boqueron 358
directions 358
tides 358
CalleCalle river 243
Callejones point 363
Callo islet 395
point 395
port. 395
Calvario bluff 3^
I)eak 230
Camana anchorage 341
valley 341
Camarones gorge 326
Cambridge island 171
Camden islands 29
Camel island 147
Camotalbank 358
Campanabank 204
deQoillota..... 266
island 172
mount 370
Samanco 367
Campbell island 122
mount 96
Canal de la Tempestad 96
Canas island 427
Canaveral cove 188
Candelaria cape 142
Canete 361
river 350
Canevaro bay 377
Cangrejo islet 426
Canning island 133
Canoa point 395
Canoas rocks 83
Canoeinlet 93
Canoitad rocks 199
Capa point 342
Capacho point 226
Capato point 138
Cape (see proper name).
Cape Horn 24
barometer 2
current 5
directions for rounding .... 10
fogs 5
icebergs 6
islands 23
tides 38
winds and weather 2
Stokes anchorage 178
Capiraguapi islet 226
Capitanes point 234
Capstan rocks 28
Carabaillo river 359
Caracciolo bay 132
Caracoles islet 426
Carampangue river 252
Caramucho cove 322
INDEX.
447
Page.
Oaramnfien cove 228
Caraquea river 397
tides 398
town 397
Carbonero head 242
Cardinal cape 144
Carelmapn bay 205
islets 203
point 204
Carlos III island 85
Camerobay 249
head 249
, shoal off 249
point 393
Caroline island 28
Carquinbay 362
islet 362
point 362
Carranza cape 261
caution 261
light 261
islands 97
rocks .* 261
Carrasco peak 321
mount 321
Carreras bay 77
anchorage 77
point 77
Carretas head 346
hill 370
mount 346
Carrington island 127
Carrizal alto 295
bajo 294
anchorage 295
port 294
-. supplies 295
bay 291
island 294
point 291
Carson point 142
CartageDa beach 265
Carteret island 88
Casa Blauca 351
de Josephina 391
Casaya island 426
Cascade harbor 86
point 99,155
Cascaj al point 413
Casilda island 97
Casmabay 365
Casper point 91
Castellano islands 87
Castillos channel 169
Castle point 148
Castlereagh cape 29
Castro anchorage 215
directions 214
inlet 214
islets 87
point 215
town 215
Casualidad rock 275
Cat cove 187
island 134
Catalinabay 74
island 126
Cateret anchorage 307
Cathedral mount 147
Catherine point 60
anchorage 60
tides 60
Catripe river 417
Caucaguapi head 200
Caucahue island 209
strait 209
Caucato heights 350
port 350
Cautenhead 246
Caution point 149
shoal: 160
buoy 160
Cave bay 144
Cavour island 160
Cayetano island 33,87
Cayo Blanco 196
CeboUiurock 279
Cecil island 140
Cedar island 423
point 157
Celery island , 107
islet 146
Center island 137,142
mount 76
rock , 137
Centinela point 217,224
Centinelas rocks 420
Ceres island 126
Cerro Alegre 284
Azul 350
Chame 436
deCabra 435
de Guasco 293
de la Cruz 391
Horca 363
Oncol 243
MoDton de Trigo 359
Verde 274
Chacabuco channel 191
cove 153
448
INDEX.
Chacabuco port 197
suoal 277
ChacanHi 319
Chacaobay 207
bluff 207
head 207
narrows 204
directions 205
tides 207
Chacaya point 315
Cbacayuta valley 329
Chaguareef 218
Chagualin island 218
Chaiguao point 219
Chaihuin gap 239
point 239
river 239
Cbaiue islet 136
Chala 342
morro 342
monnt 342
point 342
port 342
Cbalguaco cove 235
river 235
Challenger breakers 148
Chalmers cape 409
Chambique bay 253
bluffs 253
Chamebay 435
island 435
point 435
Champion rock 13
Chanabaya cove 321
Chaiiarl 291,303
bay 291
island 291
de las Animas bay 302
supplies 303
telegragh 303
Chancay bay 360
head 360
river 360
Chance bay 88
islands 132
Chanchan point 244
Chanduy heights 393
Changarml island 433
Changorock 300
Changes point 276
Changue point 233
Changuillo river 345
Channel peak 108
rock 102
Chanqui inlet 225
Chanticleer island 23
Chao islands 369
point 369
river 369
Chapera island 426
Chapman islands 96
Charapoto river 397
Charles cape 113,129
island 35,83,156,406
beacon 156
islands 133
Ill island 85
Charraaport 146
Chasco cove 296
Chasm reach 153
current 153
shoals 153
tides 153
Chasseurs bay 21
Chatas rocks 127
Chatham bay 410
tides 410
island 129,404
supplies 404
Chauchil point 228
Chaucobay 217,260
Chaulin island 218
Chaulinec island 211
shoals near 212
Chaullin island 223
Chauquiarbay ,., 223
Chauquis islands 210
Chavifia valley 343
Chay alime point 195
Chayapiren volcano 229
Cheape channel 174
Chechil 223
Cheek points 365
Cheguian point 213
Chelin island 211
Chefma cove 228
Chepillo island 429
point 394
Chepo river 429
Chepu inlet 200
Cherrepe cove 374
Chicama river 372
valley 372
Chiclayo 375
Chico morro 228,418
Chidguapi island 223
Chigualoco bay 279
cove 279
village 279
Chiguas cove 337
INDEX.
449
Page.
ChUoa island 351
point 351
port 351
tides. 351
valley - 351
Child island .* 137
beacons 137
Childers bluff 132
cape 133
Childs bluff 113
Chile currents - 184
light dues 186
passages 186
port charges 186
signals 186
tides 185
weather 185
winds and weather 180
Chilen bluff 207
Chileno point 319
Chiloe island 197
caution 198
directions 198
note 191
passage inside 198
pilotage 198
tidal wave 230
tides 230
weather 185
Chiman river 429
town 429
Chimba bay 312
Cbimborazo mountain 384
Chimbote port 367
directions 368
mails and telegraph 368
supplies 368
mole 368
mount 368
point 367
Chimpel point 248
Chimu valley 370
Chincha islands 349
river 350
Chink creek 90
Chinnock island 158
Chinos cove 317
rocks 320
Chipaua bay 320
point, false 320
Chipigana village 424
Chipre island 425
Chipue iulet 225
Chiquinata bay 322
Chira river 380
1943— :N^o. 89 29
Page.
Chirambira point 417
anchorage 417
tides 417
ChirChiribay 419
river 419
tides 419
Chiru river 418
Chiut island 212
Choapa river 280
Chocalla point 351
Choco bay 1 414
Chocoi head 204
directions 204
Chogon point 209
Choiseulbay 87
Cholni mount 245
Chomache point 320
village 320
Chonchali river 278
Chonos archipelago 188
climate 189
general instructions 190
kelp.... 190
note 191
tides 190
winds 180,189
Chopebay 223
island 102
Chorillosbay 353
anchorage 353
point 353
landing 353
Chorito river 419
Choromayo point 240
Choros bay 290
beach 290
cape V 290
islands 290
point 244
port 169
Christmas anchorage 98
cove 187
sound 28
Christopher point 408
Chucumata cove 322
Chuil island 212
Chulao point 229
Chulin island 212
Chumeline point 210
Chungo point 277
ChunguDgo island 290
point 244
Church rock 261
Churruca port 96
Chute cove 336
450
INDEX.
Pftge.
ChnzacoYe 335
Cifanchobay 304
cove 304
Cima Cuadrada island 296
Cirujano island 175
peninsula 176
Cisnes estuary 195
Citera 417
Clanricarde cape 134
Clara bay 167
Clarence island 30,73,85
Clarke point 155
Claro point 242
Clearbottom bay 27
Clemente island 191
Clements group 130
hill 137
Clerkeport 28
Cliff cove 187
hill 59
Clio island 160
Clou^ island 154
peninsula 22
Cloyne reef 126
spindle 126
Cobija bay 315
anchorage 316
communication 316
directions 315
landing 316
supplies 316
tides 316
point 315
Cobquecura bay 260
Cobre mountain 289
Cochinas point 250
Cochinos islet 202
Cockatrice rock 250
Cockburn channel 30
tides 32
Cocked Hat island 129
Cockle cove 142
directions 142
supplies 143
tides 143
Cockroach village 383
Cockshead 163
Coco islet 428
Cocos island 409
tides 410
point 426
Cocotea cove 336
Cocotue bay 200
head 200
heights 200
Cocoviislet 433
Cocoviceta islet 433
Codo point 352
Cohen fiord 167
rocks 141
•
Coicoi point 260
Coiscabay 368
C oj imies shoals 398
Cola bank 221
Coles point 335
Colhue inlet 225
Colina Bedonda cove 365
point 365
Colipi landing 319
Colita island 220
Coliumo bay 259
head 259
College rocks 36
Collingwood strait 127
Collinilo point 255
Cololue islets 324
Colombia 411
chief towns 411
climate 411
currents 412
port charges 411
production 411
rock 423
winds and weather 411
Colombine cove 127
Colonchehill 395
Coloradacove 309,324
point 324
Colorado beach 324
point 422
Coloso cove 311
Colu river 209
Columbia shoal 394
Column peak 429
Colun river 238
Colworthcape 122
Comau channel 229
inlet (Leteu) 229
morro 229
Compass cape 235
Compu inlet 218
Concepcion 255
bay 256
approaching 256
Great or Eastern channel.. 257
Rock 257
Channel 132
east shore 132
west shore 134
Concha port 194
INDEX.
451
Page.
Concbalibay 276
Conchas point 278
Conconcove 272
point 272
rocks 272
Condesa bay 89
Condor oUff 56
anchorage 56
cove 235
anchorage 235
point 235
Cone hill 64,148
inlet 187
Conejos islands 365
Congo river 422
Conic island 410
Conner islands 122
Connor cove 163
Conquestrock 295
Constitucion harbor 313
tides 313
island 313
town 262,313
Contadora channel 425
island 425
Contao coast 228
Conway bay 407
anchorage 407
^knob 94
Cook bay 28
point 142
port 16,70
Coombesrock 108
Cooper Key cape 105
Copaoa point 317
Vieja cove 317
Copiap^bay 298
port 297
anchorage 299
directions 298
tides 298
Copper cove 316, 317
caution, directions 316
point 317
Coppinger peninsula 141
Coquimbo 286
Coquimbo bay 286
anchorage 287
coal 287
communication -. 287
directions 287
fogs 287
landing 287
refitting 287
signals 286
Page.
Coqoimbo bay sapplies 286
tides 286
winds 286
peninsula 285
Coquito point 400
light 401
Corales point 422
Coralie cove 27
Corcovado gulf 220
cape 229
island 369
mountain 217
reef 352
Cordes bay 82
Cordillera reef 171
Cordonal point 262
Cordova channel 95
inlet 95
island 94
pass 94
point 147
Cormorant inlet 92
Comejo point 340
Coronahead 201
light 201
islands 113
Coronades gulf 232
Coronel 254
bay 254
anchorage 254
coal 254
directions 254
point 204,254
supplies 254
Coronilla rock 264
Corral fort 241
port 240
communication 241
current 242
light 241
supplies 241
tides 242
Corredor river 420
Corrientes cape 418
Corso mount 150
peninsula 150
Cortado cape 99
Cortes cape 134
Ojea channel 164
Coruturiver 429
Coscomba cove 369
Costa channel » 193
Cotesworth islands 37
Cotopaxi rock 162
buoy 162
462
INDEX.
Coaohan beach 352
Coughtry islands 96
Courtenay soand 29
Cousifio rock 283
Coutt islet 344
Covadonga group 154
rook 155,236
Coventry cape 82
Cranmer sonnd 147
Creek point 91
Cripples channel 106
Croft island 157
Crooked reach 88, 100
rock 100
Cross hills 392
Crossley bay 18
Crossman islets 408
Crossover island 154
Crosstide cape 85
Cruces point 419
Cruz de la Ballena point 275
de Palo cove 352
Cuaques highland 398
Cucaobay 200
heights 200
Cudagnapi rock 199
Cnello point 218
Cuenca 384
Cuervo island 254
Cuevascape 98
Cuitue peak 227
Culebras cove 365
point 365
CuUin point 259
Culling island 133
Culo de Barca island 414
Culpepper islet 409
Cumberland bay 307
tides 307
Cummins point 106
Cunningham island 122
— mount 96
Cupica bay 419
tides 419
river 419
Cupola islet 112
Curachichi river 420
Curaco cove 247
Curanipe road 260
town 260
Curaumahead 266
Curanmilla point 266
light 266
semaphore 266
Curay aco cove 352
Fag©.
Curico 271
Curin cove 244
Currant point 149
Currents, Agnja point 377
Cape Horn and 6
Pillar, between 6
Cascajal and Guascama^ between 414
Coast of Chile 184
Colombia 412
Ecuador 385
Peru 332
Galapagos islands 403
gulf of Panama 421
Lobos de Afuera 377
Tierra 377
Malpelo island 422
Mocha island, near 246
Tumaco, offing 412
Valdivia and adjacent coast 242
Cutler island 125
cove 113
islands 113
rock 124
Cuzco city 342
D.
Daedalus island 25
rock 25
Dalcahue channel 211
pass 213
villages 213
Dallaspoint 297
Dalrymple rock 404
Da]y island 161
Dampier islands 19
Danaide rocks 433
Danger shoal 157
Daniel point 63
Daphne rock 395
Darby cove 97
Dardo head 346
Darien harbor 424
anchorage 424
climate 424
produce 424
tides .., 425
Dark hill 187
Darwin bay 191
channel 191
directions 192
tides 192
mouut 362
range 12
Dash wood point 122
INDEX.
453
Page.
Datum point 138
Davin islets 137
sound 87
Davis point 94
Dawson island 71
Day bay 139
Daylight point 406
Dead Tree islet 175
Dean harbor 33
Deceit cape 24
island 24
Deep harbor 120
De la Iglesla rock 261
De las Damas island 290
Delgada point 62,129
anchorage 62
directions 62
tides 62
Delgado sound 141
Delicada point 251
Delusion bay 95
Deseado cape 37
Desecho 176
Desertores islands 212
Despair island 100
Desolate bay 29
Desolation cape 29
island 37
Dessant rooks 85
Deticu coye 218
Detif headland 215
Deutsche narrows 163
Diamond island 154
Diana hill 131
peak 171
Diane island 25
Diaz island.... 97
Diego Ramirez islands 26
Diegues island ,97
Digby point 97
Dighton bay 34
Dillon point 25
Dinero mount 58
Dinwoodie point 142
Direction bluff 344
hills 60
beacon 60
tides 60
islands 157
islet 162
islets 112
Dislocation harbor 37
directions 38
Divide point 22
Division islands • 142
Paga
Division mount 367
Dixon cove 126
hill 63
Dolores reef 154
Dolphin island.... 110
Dome hill 102
of Saint Paul 177
Dona Elvira bay 169
Maria point 345
Sebastiana islet 203
Vista point 424
Donkin cove 114
point .-..--.- 115
Don Martin island 362
Pedro inlet 136
point 128
Dooli branch 391
Doris cove 29
Dormidos de Afuera 251
Dorsetshire rock 285
Dos Amigos rocks 233
Hermanos islands 86
Reyes point 310
Double peak 66,128
mountain 147
Double rock 148
Douglas bay 23
Doyle point 90
Dreising bay 164
Drew harbor 73
point 91
Driver rock 212
Dmmmond Hay island 136
Duao point 262
Duck harbor.. 171
Duende island 188
Duendesport 318
rock 318
Duff bay 27
Dugoab reef 210
Duke of Edinburgh sound 156
of Yorkisland 132,172
Dulce island 156
Duncan harbor 171
island 407
rock 171
Dundee rock 173
Dungeness 57
anchorages 58
beacon 58
lighthouse 58
tides 58
wreck 58
Duntze point 89
Duprat point 269
454
INDEX.
Dnraziio rook 273
Dnrrumbo cove 281
Datton island 153
Dyer cape 172
Dyneley bay 86
island 31
— sound 31
Eagle bay 79
Eardleybay 132
Earlecove 34
East bay 89,141
channel 156
Fury rooks 30
— Havergalbay 90
point 300,400
Eastern peaks 144
Echiniqne point 96
Eclipse island 128
Ecuador 384
chief towns 384
climate 385
communication 385
currents 385
dues 385
general description 384
port charges 385
productions 384
rivers 384
telegraph 385
winds and weather 385
Eden harbor 156
tides 156
island 156
Edgeworth cape 34
shoal 34
Edithisland 424
Edwards rock 131
El Anela anchorage 207
Barco rock 245
Barranco 353
Centinelahill 265
Cobrebay 310
Corral bank 273
Dique 203
anchorage 203
Farallon 237
Frailerock 253,266
Gobemadorhill 274
Morion 88
Moritorock 278
Morro 412
Chioo 413
ElMuerto 387
Novillo island 348
Paposo 309
Pefion point 262
Puerto of Panama 432
Rosario 223
Tororock 266
Yungue mountain 306
Elefantes gulf 192
inlet 192
Elena cape 186
cove 153
Eliza bay 31
point 129
Elizabeth bay 84,408
anchorage 84
island 67
anchorage 67
point 160
Ellen mount 147
island 424
islet 91
Elliott peninsula 154
Elvira point 87
Emma island : 167
point 146
Englefield island 113
English bay 240
cove 335
creek 247
narrows 156
buoys 159
caution 159,160
directions 156
regulations 157
tides 157
roads 251
Engorda point 251
Entrance island 108
islets 177
point 261
rock 161
Entry island 93
beacon 93
rock 134
Erhardt channel 162
Erizos rocks 365
Errazuriz channel 192
shoal 191
cove 313
point 283
Escarpado cape 420
Eskrock 82
Esmeralda cove 304
rock 205,314
INDEX.
455
Pago.
Esmeralda rock bnoy 205
Esmeraldas river 400
town 401
anchorage 401
sapplies 401
Espauola island 406
point 388
light 388
Esperanza island 129
Espineira port 196
Espinosa monnt 258
Esplritu Santo cape 12, 60
Espora point 62
Essex point 408
Estaqnillas point 234
Ester rock 267
Estero Adelaida 168
Artigas 168
Balsa 395
Chico 168
Corto 168
Desengano 168
deTiramano 391
DofiaAna 168
Don Jos6 169
EngafioBO 164
Inutil 168
Maldonado 168
Moluscos 169
Pedregoso 168
Roberto 168
Salado creek 393
SanJos^ 168
Sofia 168
Solitario 168
Treple 168
Ultimo 162
Estevan channel 127
Estiva island 436
EtenHead 375
anchorage 375
light 375
supplies 375
Enclnme island 21
Enropa point 129
Eustonbay 36
tides 36
Evangelistas islets 112
light 112
Evans group 121
island 128
rocks 128
Eve point 158
Eversfield fiord 167
Event islands 23
Pago.
Exmonth promontory 155
Eyre sound 163
P.
Fairway island 119
islets 120
patch 142
rock 107,148
Falgate island 110
Fallos channel 168
Falsa cape 239
Falscher arm 168
False Aguja point 377
Cape Horn 25
Quod 101
Chipana point 320
cove 13
Galera point 239
Godoi point 233
Maule river 262
: valley 261
point 317
Faluchohead 260
Famine port 77
directions 78
supplies 77
tides 78
Fantasma rock 277
Fantome island ^ 154
Farallon islet 434
de Castillo 412
dellnfiemillo 263
Ingles island 428
Farallones de Algarrobo 266
Farfan river 433
Fatal bay 164
Fawn rock 136
buoy 136
Felix bay 98
point 98
Fenton point 113
Fergusson rock 366
Femandina island 408
Ferreiiafe 375
Ferrolbay 367
directions 368
sapplies 368
telegraph 368
tides 368
islets 367
Field bay 33
anchorage 103
Fielden point 148
Fincham islands 36
Finger point 405
Firstnarrows 61
456
INDEX.
Page.
First narrows north shore 62
south shore 62
tides 62
Fisgard rocks 89
Fisher island 144
Fitton harbor 72
FitzRoy channel 113
xsland 30
rock 89
Five Brothers islets 196
Flagstaff hill 285
Flamenco cove 302
island 433
Flat rock 119,339,350
point 339
Fleet harbor 167
Fletcher island 138
Fleuriais bay 22
point 163
Flinders bay 18
Flinn sound 173
Flora rock 341
Florida shoal 158
Flotten harbor 167
Foca island 378
point 378
Foley island 124
Folyrock 423
Forelius peninsula 176
Fort Callao point 268
Fortescue bay 83
caution 83
tides 83
Fortune bay 125
Fox bay 72
point 135
Fraile islets 437
point 350
rock 252,266
Frances port 196
Francis island 91
islets 124
Francisco point 300
island... 196
Franklin bay 18
sound 25
Freshwater bay 76, 404
anchorage 76
directions 76
supplies 76
cove... 86
Freycinet reef 119
Friar's leap 353
Fricker island 109
Fronton island 357
I Page.
Fronton point 242
shoal 358
Froward cape 81
tides 81
Fumeaux cape 15
Fury harbor 30
island 30
rocks 29
a.
Gableisland 21
Gabriel channel 72
Gage inlet 152
Gi^uala islet 420
Galapiigos islands 402
climate 403
curren.ts 403
general description 402
supplies 403
tides 405
Galeotilla point 135
Galera island 427
point 238,357,398
light 238
Gallant cape 83
caution 83
port 83
tides &3
Gallegos cape 187
Gallo point 266
Gamboa cape 149
river 215
Gammara shoal 376
Gap peak ..-.. 60
Garachine bay 420
point 420
village 420
Garcia rock 372
Gardner bay 406
island 406
islet 407
Garden island 21
Garitahill 370
Garrao point 192
Gate islands 142
Gatico cove 316
caution 316
directions. 316
point 316
Gatos inlet 194
Gaviota island 290
Genova point 193
Gente Grande bay 69
point 69
George cape 171
I
IKDEX.
457
Pago.
George island. 133
point — 114
Georgiaxeef 77
Gerdisland... 167
German narrows 164
Gidley cove 72
Gilbert island 29
Ginnbay 103
Glacier bay 103
sound Ill
Glascott point 81
Gloucester cape 35
Goddardislet 370
shoal 370
Godoi point 233
port 233
Goicolea island 169
Goletaislet 350
Gonzales narrows 87
Gonzalo morro 240
Good bay 121
Good luck bay 101
Good Success bay 14
'■ tides... 20
cape 20
Gorda point 326,400,428
Gordo mount 327
Gordonhill 142
island 22
Goree road 21
Gorgon reef 155
Gorgona islaud 414
anchorage 414
tides 414
Gorgonilla island 414
Gort island 141
Goschen island 129
Gracia point 66
tides 66
Grafton islands 35
Graham mount 143
Gramadel bay 363
Grande cove 267
island 197
point 308.317
river 433
Grant island 142
point 89
Grappler port 154
reach 153
Grau cove 154
Grave island 92
Gravesisland 37
Gray channel 124
— directions 124
Paga
Gray harbor 161
Great Black rock 28
Orange bank 61
buoy 61
Greenisland 392
islands 120
islet 131,161
beacon 161
point 123,133
Greenough peninsula 86
Gregory bay 64
tides , 64
cape 64
range - 65
shoulder 64
Gretton bay 25
Greville point 156
Grovesound 132,135
Gruesa point 267,322
Guabun cape 200
Guacanec islands 19
Guacaymayo river 243
Guadiecove 238
Guafo island 197
Guaianeco island 165, 173
Guaiteo Grande island . . . ». 196
Guaitecas islands 188, 195
approach 195
climate and winds 189
instructions 190
note 191
tides 190
Guala point 229
Gualaihue coast 228
cove 229
point 229
Gualguala cove 315
point 315
Guallarauco point 275
Guaman islet 312
Guambacho bay 366
town 366
supplies 367
Guamblin island 193
tides 193
Guamlad passage 198
Guanaco point 23
GuaQape cove. 370
hill 369
islands 370
Guanico point , 437
Guanillocove 317
del Norte cove 320
Sur cove 317
point 309,320
458
INDEX.
Paga
Gnapasho point 201
shoal 201
caution 201
Guapilinao head 208
Guar island 225
passage 225
Guard island 130
Guaacama point 418
Guasco 293
^-^ point -.-.-- 292
port - 293
anchorage - 293
light 293
rollers 293
tides 293,306
Guaailla point 315
Guata cove 340
Guayaoan - 284
supplies 284
Guayaquil city , 392
coal 393
^— communication 385
port charges 393
supplies 393
telegraph 386,393
gulf 1 386
buoys 389
— directions 390
lights 387
river 391
bar 391
directions 393
pilots 389
tides 389
Gueldan cove 208
Guerrero island 191
Guerreros valley 337
Guia island 164
islands 155
narrows 130
tides 130
Guide narrows 130
tides 130
Guillermo rock : 205
buoy 205
Guinea point 433
Guiriorbay 101
Gulf of San Vicente rock 63
GuUrock 133
Gun bay 79
point 26
Gunnrock 141
Gusgava bay 420
Guy Fawkes islets 407
H. Page.
Haase point 114
Haberton harbor 21
Hale cove 164
Half Port bay 93
Halfway shoal 66
Hall point 113
rock 250
rocks 159
Halt bay 161
Hamiltonhead 99
point 128,423
Hammond reef 156
buoy 156
Hamper bay 125
Hankin point 129
Hannant bay 105
Hanover island 130,172
Harbor islet 364
peak 145
point 155
Harchy bay 191
Hardy peninsula 25
Harmless point 344
Harrissbay 72
Harry point 92
HartDyke mount 96
Hartwellbay 123
Hassler bank 247
Hastings fiord 146
Hatisland 103
Hatelybay 25
Havana inlet 169
Havannah point 105
rock 285
Havergal bay 89
Hawkcliflf 74
Hawkins bay 86
Hawksworth cape 145
Haydonbank 425
Hayes point 108
Hazard islands 174
Hazeltine rock 25
Hecate rock 129
Heinrichs fiord 162
Hellen point 158
Hellyer rocks 188
Helmet, the 88
Henby islets 142
Henderson inlet 138
caution 138
directions 138
tides 138
island 27
point 123
INDEX.
459
Page.
Henry, cape 121
point 91,119
port 144
anchorage 144
^—directions 145
tides 145
Hermanos, Dos, island 86
rocks 433
Hermiarock 156
Herminia island 153
Hermite islands 23
Hernan Gallego channel 168
Hernando islands 143
Herradura beach 273
de Carrisal bay 294
de Salinas 360
Mejillones bay 314
point 284,294
port 284
anchorage 284
. coal 284
signals 284
supplies 284
Herschel islands 23
Hesserman fiord 169
Hewett bay 32
Hicaron island 438
Hidden harbor 86
Hignera cove 317
Hill point 102
Hills islands 33
Hind island 27
Hobbsreef 405
Hocico de Caiman 135
Holland cape 82
point 97
HoUoway sound 177
Hondo river 429
Hood island 406
Hope harbor 35,72
island 131
mount 70
Hoppers bluff 114
Hoppner port 18
sound 177
Horace peak 29
Horacioport 154
Horadada islet 353
Horcahill 363
Hereon bay 273
head 273
Hormigas de Afuera 359
Tierra rocks 359
Horn cape 24
barometer 2
Pace
Horn capiB current 5
fogs 5
icebergs 6
seasons, winds 2
tides 88
time for rounding 10
peak 172
Hornby sound 164
Hose harbor 122
Hoskins island 129
Hoskyn cove 160
islet 124
Hoste island 25
Howard bay 145
Hoy point 93
Huacas point 347
Huacho 361
bay 361
tides 361
point 361
supplies - 361
Huaina Pisagua bay 325
anchorage 326
Huajne point 315
Huaman 371
cove 371
Huanaquero mountain 283
point 284
Huanchaco peak 370
road 371
anchorage 371
landing 372
village 372
Huarmey bay 363
anchorage 364
directions 364
supplies 364
tides 364
Huaura islets 361
Huayusca cape 235
cove 235
Huechucucui head 200
Hueicolla cove 238
point 238
river 238
Hueihuc port 208
Huelmo bay 225
island 225
Huentelauquen cove 280
Huenuguapi cove 221
Hnequillahue anchorage 226
Hueso Parade cove 305
Huevos island 276
Hueyelhue river 236
Huezhui cove 244
460
INDEX.
Pace.
Hugh bay 133
directions 133
head 120
Huichabank 204
Haihuen heights 204
Huildad inlet 219
shoal 219
tides 219
Haique head 257
Huiteport 208
tides 209,231
Huito inlet 223
Hummockhill 64
Hnmos cape 261
island 191
Humphrey cove 90
Hnntercape 89
island 126
Hnrtado point 115
Hyacinth point 153
Hyde mount 23
Hy drographic office agents 493
publications 487
L
lea 348
lea river 345
Ichuac oove ,. 215
Iclai inlet 192
Icy sound 33,111
Idenna island 211
Iglesia de Piedra rock 260
Sevira rock 418
Ignacio bay 174
Iguana cove 408
island 423,436
tides 436
point 428
Ildefonzobay 96
islands 27
niimani reef 246
Ho road 335
Iloco point 262
Ilquebay 226
point 226
Imel bank 211
island 211
Imerquina island 212
Imperial river 245
directions 246
Inche rock 216
Inchemo island 188
Inchin islands 188
Indefatigable island 407
Independencia bay 346
Independoia. bay anchorage 346
current 346
landing 347
tides 347
Indian bay 27,79
caution 154
inlet 94
reach 154
Infiernillos rock 346
Ingles bank 203
bay 201,299
port 202
Inglesacove 291
Inlet bay 125
Inman bay 86
cape 36
Inner passage 287
Innes point 149
Inocentea channel 130
island 131
Intermedia shoal 264
Ipswich island 36
Ipun island 194
Iquique 323
coals 324
communication 324
hurricane • 324
island 322
light 322
landing 324
pilots 324
road 323
anchorage 323
buoy 823
directions 323
tides 323
wrecks 323
supplies 324
Iris island 140
Isabel cape 171
island 35,121
peint 100,192
Isabela island 407
Isabella point 114
IslaAlta 376
Baja 376
Blanoa 277,305
bay 305
Grande 298
Verde 277,392
Island bay 125
harbor 163
Islas de Campecha 273
Colombia 425
dellstmo 425
INDEX.
461
Page.
IslasdelRey 243,425
Ifllay 338
islands 337
mount 339
point 337
road 338
anchorage 339
directions 338
landing 338
tides 338
Isle de dos Canales 129
Islets of Direction 112
— —point 113
Islote islet 243
Isquiliac island 193
mount 193
Isthmus bay 125
Italiano, port 192
Itatariver 260
Itecove 334
J.
Jack harbor 80
Jacquinot point 83
Jaguey point 363
Jama point 398
anchorage 407
bay 407
James island 83,194,407
Janeisland 73,144
Janequeorock 196,298
shoal 225
Jarahead 311
Jaramijo bluff 397
Javier Igor 233
Jeannette island 424
Jenkins hill 156
Jequetepeque river 374
Jerome channel , 84,112
Jesuit sound 174
Jesus islet 336
Jeya river 418
Jipijapa 396
Joachim point 71
John point 160
Johnson point 90
Jones island 423
islands 153
peak 107
Jorado village 420
Jorey island 423
Jorge bay 312
point 313
Jorginomorro 314
Joy mount 120
Page.
Juan island 131
Diaz heights 328
river 328
Fernandez island 306
supplies 306
Latorre point 242
Soldado mount 289
Juanchuquita bay 377
Judge rocks 38
Juera river 437
Julepe point 244
Julia island 161
Julian inlet 174
Julio point 115
Jungfemgrund anchorage 170
Junin cove 325
Junquillar village , 309
K.
Kaiser harbor 162
Kathleen anchorage 146
Keats sound 74
Keklao cape 22
Kelly harbor 175
rock 145
Kelp point 72
Kempe harbor 86
island 30
Kennal rocks 35
Kicker rock 405
King island ^ 30
Kingfisher rock 137
King William IV land 105
Kirke narrows 126
rocks 30
Kitt island 157
Knick,The 168
Knocker island-. 148
rock....... 434
Knoll bank 205
Knorr island 162
Knowsley rock 284
buoy. 284
Konigs harbor 169
Kosmos harbor 168
L.
La Ballenacove 277
Cal point 241
Cruz de la Ballena 275
Darsena basin 196
Fortaleza 363
Fuente islet 339
Gaviota landing 317
Goleta village 436
462
INDEX.
Page
La Huairona cove 242
Isla 272
Laguna bay 267
MarBrava 353
Mesa do Dofia Maria monntain. 346
Mision point 243
Mula Muerta rocks 279
Place islands 126
Plata island 396
anchorage 396
light 396
Portadoreef 312
Poza anchorage 262
cove 312
Roca 414
Salina 378
Serena town 286
Sillahill 275
Viudarock 259,412
Labouchere rock 125
Labozariver 412
Labyrinth channel 168
islands 73
Lacaobay 206
anchorage 206
island 206
supplies 206
Lacka wana cove 155
Lackwater point 113
Lacobe point 249
Lacui peninsula 200
Ladder hill 130
Ladrillero channel 167
Lagartij a channel 221
island 221
Lagartohead 364
Lagartos bank 313
island 313
Lagnnas port 193
tides 193
Laitec island 220
shoal 220
Lally island 103
Lamarmora island 160
Lambayeque road 375
Lambert islet .81
Lamehuapi cove 238
point 238
Lamero sound 143
Lami banks 221
Landfall islands 36
Landslip sound 134
Langarabay 101
port 87
Lapataiabay 22
Lapis point 135
Laredo bay 74
caution 74
tides 74
Larequete 252
bay 252
beach 252
ooal 252
river 252
Larga point 322
Las Animas bay 302
point 302
Canasbay 261
Caaas anchorage 308
Conchas point 279
Damas island 290
Minasbay 114
Laserrepoint 16
light 16
Last harbor 87
Hope inlet 126
Latimer island 144
Latitude bay 36,167
tides 36
cove 129
island 167
Latorre channel 162
Lauraharbor 36
Laurel point 240
Lautaro cove 319
point 319
Lavapie point 250
Lavatabay 304
point 304
Law peak 37
Leading bluff 314,367
hill 27,36
island 36
Lebu 248
bay 248
coal 248
port 248
river 248
tides 248
Lechuza mount 347
Lecky cone 346
harbor Ill
inlet 134
island 338
lookout 171
monument 171
point - 128
retreat 127
Lee bay 69
rock -37
INDEX.
463
Page.
Lelban point 216
LeMaire strait 19
soundings 19
tides 20
Lemon point 427
Lemui island 215
Lengua de Vaca Mils 287
point 282
village 250
Lennox island 20
Leones cape 291
Leptepu creek - 229
Leteu inlet 229
Letgo point — ... 90
Level bay .J56
Levy point -.* 103
Lewis bay 92
Libertabay 161
Lido point ^ 404
Liebre island 194
Lieuliea point 229
Ligate cove 322
Light, Agni point 202
Amortajada island 387
Anjeles point 267
Antofagasta 311
Arena point 388
Boca Jambeli 387
Bnena cove 325
Calderaport - 300
Callaobay 356
Carranza cape 261
Chiloe island 202,203
Coquito point 401
Corona head 201
Corral port 241
Curaumilla point 266
Dungeness 58
Esmeraldas river 401
Espafiola point 388
Eton head 375
Famine reach 78
Galapagos islands 405
Galera point 238
Gnasco 293
Gulf of Guayaquil 387
Iquique 322
La Plata island 396
Laserre point 16
Los Evangelistas 112
Lota point 253
Mandinga point 389
Manta 396
Mocha island 247
Monttport 226
Page.
Light Niebla point (Valdivia) 242
Pacasmayo 374
Paita 379
Pajaros islet 289
Palominos 356
Panama bay 432
Pisco bay 348
Punta Arenas 75
Quiriquina island 256
St. John harbor 16
Salaverry 371
San Lorenzo island 356
Sandy point 75
Santa Ana point 261
Clara island 387
Elena point 394
Maria island 251
Staten island 16.
Talarabay 381
Talcahuano 258
Tomibay 259
Tortuga point 285
Valdivia 242
Valparaiso bay 268
Voces bay 78
Wreck bay 405
Zorritos 382
Ligate cove 322
Liguabay 274
point 274
river 274
Lileourarock 209
beacon 209
Lilen point 274
Lilenes island 279
Lilesbay 273
point 249,272
Liliguapi island 220,229
Lima 356
Limache 270
Limaririver 281
Limones point 415
Lin anchorage 222
Linagua island 220
Linaoport 208
Ling point '.-... 90
Lingue river 244
Linlin island 211
Lintinao islet 214
Lion bay 162
sound 101
Lionel head 410
Lisa point 436
Litis islet 274
Little Black rock 28
464
INDEX.
Page.
Little Bonet island 84
Borja island 100
point 103
Lizard island 163
Llancahe island 229
Llanquihuelake 226,233
Lleniman cove 228
Lleullen river 247
Llicobay 234,252
supplies 252
river 234
road 262
caution 262
— supplies 262
tides 263
Lliuco river 235
village 208
Loa gully 319
river 319
Loberia cove 240
head 256
islet 244
point 244,280,351
rock 213
rocks 312
Lobo arm 97
island 366
point 343
Lobos cape 326
de Afuera 376
anchorage 376
tides 376
Tierra 376
anchorages 377
currents 377
tides 377
head 209
island 274
point 256, 263, 276, 294, 320
anchorage 321
rock 226,261
Loch Breadonrock 318
Locos island 275
Locumba river 334
Logan rock 177
Loja 384
Lomas bay 61, 71
point 343
road 343
valley 343
Loncoyen point 243
Loncura rocks 273
London island 29
isle 35
Londonderry islands 28
Page.
Loney islet 160
Long island 123,230
reach 88,101
Lookout hill 258
shoal 159
buoy 159
Lora point 263
Lorcura point 248
Loro river 425
Lores point 266
Lortbay 26
Los Chinos rocks 366
Cerros de la Cruz 392
£ vangelistas islets 112
light 112
Farrallones rocks 266
Hermanos rooks 433
lufieles 302
Infiernillos 346
Jemelos rocks 322
Lobos islet 266
Reyes island 258
Lota - 253
Lota bay 252
coal 253
communication 253
supplies 253
telegraph 253
point 253
current 248
lights 253
Lotillabay 254
Loveless bay 140
Low island 125, 145
beacon 125
point 307,314
port 195
directions 195
supplies 195
tides 195
Lua point 220
Lucas cove 158
Lucky ledge 85
Luiz cove 94
Lurin 352
river 352
valley 352
Lutrin point 253
Lyell sound 86
Lynch rock 120
M.
Mable islet 146
Macavi islands 373
Macchia Lunga point 192
INDEX.
465
Pago.
Macgowen reef 407
Machado cape 174
channel 169
Machala creek 387
Machatilloport 395
Mackerel anchorage 149
Madre islands 132,172
Magazine bay 267
Magdalen sound 73
Magdalena bay 416
island 188
point 416
Magellan strait 40
anchorages 55
barometer 42
' buoys, caution 59
cape Froward to Jerome
channel 81
cape Porpesse to cape Fro- ward 74
channels off Main strait. . . 112
caution 55, 56
directions, cape Froward
westward 53
directions, Dungeness to
Laredo bay 51
directions, eastern entrance
to cape Froward 47
directions, general 47
directions, Sandy point
eastward 52
— eastern entrance to First
Narrows 56
eastern entrance to First
Narrows, caution 56
eastern entrance, to First
Narrows, landmarks 56
eastern entrance to First
Narrows, north shore... 56
eastern entrance to First
Narrows, south shore 60
First Narrows 61
First Narrows, north shore . 61
First Narrows, south shore 62
First to Second Narrows,
north shore 63
First to Second Narrows,
south shore 65
fogs 44
— general remarks on navi- gation and anchorage in western part of
strait 40,55
Jerome channel to western
entrance 100
1943— No. 89 30
Page.
Magellan straight kelp 44
Magdalen sound to cape
Pillar 85
natives 41
refuge stations 45
seasons 43
Second Narrows, north
shore 66
Second Narrows, Patago-
nian shore 66
Second Narrows to cape
Porpesse, Patagonian
shore 66
Second Narrows to Magel- lan sound, Tierra del
Fuego shore 69
squalls 44
thunder and lightning 45
tides and tidal streams 45
winds 41
Magenta bay 161
Magicienne bay 427
rock 406
Magill islands 30
Maillen island 226
Maine island 138
Maipo bank 208
river 264
Maiquillahue bay 244
cove 244
point 244
Maitencillo cove 281
Majaguay islet 428
Mala bank 389
buoys 389
cape V 436
cove 281
hill 388
river 351
valley 351
Malabrigo hill 372
landing 373
point 372
road 372
tides 373
Malacca cove 156
Malaspina islands 147
Malenas bank 272
Mallet bay 125
Mallifia island 225
Malpaso cove 382
de Asia point 351
Malpelo island 409
current 422
point 382
466
INDEX.
Page.
Malvinas point 62
Mamilla gorge 318
Manao bay 207
Maiia\i chanuel 397
Mancera bank 241
island 241
Mancora cove 382
Mandinga bluff 390
point 388
light 389
Manglespoint 398,402
MaDgio ve bay 416
Mangiie islet 428
Manta 396
bay 396
anchorage' 397
— directions 396
light 396
supplies 397
tides 397
weather 397
winds 897
Manuel passage 155
point 246
Manzano bay 236
cove 235
rock 258
Maple point 144
Maquehua 252
Maquis point 260
Mar Brava point 290
Marcacci island 192
March harbor 28
Marcheno island 408
Marcus island 162
Marden port 125
Maria cape 21
Mariato point 437
landfall 437
Marilmo channel 229
Marinao bank « 259
rock 259
buoy 259
Marine islands 177
Marion cove 104
Marsh basin 91
Martabank 68
buoy 68
coalmines 115
. island 155
Marteau island 21
Martin point 113,222
Martinez rock 244
Marullobank 257
— — -rook..... •••• 255
Mary iBland 423
Marzo cape 419
Mas Afuera island 307
anchorage 307
Maaa island 391
Mas a Tierra island 306
Mass bay 88
Matalqui cape 200
tides 200
islets 200
paps 20O
Matamoros port 296
anchorage 296
MatanciUa cove 264
Matauza cove 264
Mataquito river 262
Matarani cove 339
Mather island 137
Matorillos bank 391
Manle river 261
anchorage 261,262
bar 262
directions 261
pilots 262
tides 262
shoal 249
valley, false 261
Maullin river 233
town 233
Maunder point 103
Max island 102
Maxwell island 25
port 24
May island 149
Maycockrock 91
Mayne channel 122
anchorage 124
directions 124
harbor 128
Mayro rock 346
Mazaredpbay 86
Maze islands 106
Mazorca islet 361
Medal bay 94
Medio cape 13
cove 297
island 141
islet 152
point 299
Mehegan point 138
Mehuin river 244
Meidelisland 147
Mejiacove 336
Mejico point 336
Mejillones del Sur bay 314
INDEX.
467
Pag©.
Mejillones del Sar Bay anchorage . . . 314
supplies 315
Norte cove 325
anchorage 325
directions 325
monnt 314
Melchor island 188
Melinka point 196
port 195
Mellersh cove 87
Melones island 435
rock 435
Melville sound 30
Memphis shoal 158
Menchuan island 188
Mendez point 62
Mercury sound 31
Mercy head 99
port 99
tides 100
Messier channel 160
tides 166
Meteor rock 250
Metrencue point 224
Meulin island 211
Miami rock 322
Micaela port 154
Michael point 136
buoy 136
Michilla cove 315
point 315
Mid Channel island 159
beacons 159
Mid rock 149
Middle bank 221
cape 18
caution 18
cove 25
ground 67
island 133,163,350
Middle point 21,104
Midge island 162
rock 96
Miedo point 284
Milagro cove 237
point 237
Milky Way 35
Millar island 164
Miller cove 87
Millonhue point 249
Milne island 424
Mindfulshoal 159
buoy 159
Mira river , 402
Mirafloies 353
Page.
Miramar rocks 260
Misericordia point 100
Mission stations 9
Misteriosa rock 360
Moat island 157,161
Mocha island 246
anchorages 247
lights 247
shoal 246
lake 245
Moche river 371
Molendo island 337
port 336
anchorage 337
directions 337
landing 337
supplies 337
Molino cove 240
point 242
Mollecove 273,322
MoUendito cove 340
Molles cove 275
point 275
Molyneux sound 135
dangers 136
directions 136
Mompiche point 399
Monday cape 94
Mondragon bank 391
channel 391
Mongon mount 365
Mougoncilla point 365
Monmouth cape 69
island 83
Monsefn 375
Monson bay 109
Montague cape 172
Montanita point 395
Monte Christo hill 396
'• town 396
• del Zorro point 260
Fuerte 341
Gordo 327
Jorgino 314
Monteith sound 134
Montijobay 437
Montt port 226
anchorage ." 226
communication 226
directions 227
light 226
supplies...! 227
tides 227
town 226
Moquegua valley 335
468
INDEX.
Page.
Moquehua 327
Moraine hill 90
islands 133
Moraleda channel 193
rock 193
Moreno bay 311
mount 311
peninsula 311
point 311
spring 313
Moreton island 140
Morgan island 142
rock 283
Morning cove 22
Momington island 148
Morquilla point 247
Morro Amortajado 232
MorroChala 342
channel 393
r- caution 394
Chico 228,418
de Acari 344
Copiapd 299
Sama 329
San Aguedo 81
del Homo 227
Potrerillo 274
Gonzalo 240
Jarjino 314
point 299,323
Puercos head 437
Solar 352
Mortimer island 30
Morton island 27,156
Moss islet 119
Mostaza cove 279
Mostyncove 92
Mouat islands 109
Mount Skyring island 30
Mud bay 174
Muicolpue cove 236
point 236
river 236
Muisne river 399
Mula Muerta rocks 279
Mulatas point 359
Mulchey island 196
Muller rook ...* 205
Mufioz Gamera peninsula 105
Murray cove 86
narrows 21
patch 138
Mussel bay 85
island 82
rock 135
Page.
Mutico patch 202
point 202
Mutrunhill 262
N.
Nagu^ cove 278
Nahuelgaapi bank 221
Naipe river 419
Nao islet 223
NaoB island 433
Naranjal river 391
Naranj as island 437
Narborough island 194, 408
Nares mount 148
Narrow bank 59
caution 69
Nash bay 87
Nassau anchorage 97
bay 22
caution 23
directions 23
channel 80
island 80
port 196
rock 57
Navarin island 20
Navidadbay 264
Nayahue island 212
Nazca cape 345
Needle hummock 344
Neesham inlet 147
Negra point 323
Negrilla rooks 416
Negrito wells 381
Negro bay 276
cape 74
islands 276
point 301
river 171
Nelson strait 171
Nena point 247
port 247
anchorage 247
Nepe&a river 366
Neuke mount 256
Neuman inlet 177
New bank 69
channel 49
directions 49
island 20
Year harbor 16
island 14
anchorage 14
sound 27
Newton island 126
INDEX.
469
Page.
Niebla bluff 242
light 242
point 242
semaphore 243
Nightingale rock 319
Ninnalaca channel 194
Nituel island 212
Nodales islets 98
peak 80
Noir cape 35
island 35
road 35
Nomans island 197
Nombre head 12
Nonato cove 340
gully 340
Non Entry bay 72
Nonura point 377
Noria works 324
Nortbay 32
North bay 121
channel 388
cheek 365
cove 30
entrance 73
Gate island 142
head 14
island 71,349,370
passage 71
road 25
Northbrook sound 106
Northwest rock 349
Nose peak 70
Notch cape 102
cove 102
tides 103
peninsula 102
No Thoroughfare cove 126
Notre Dame mountain 147
Novita 417
Nuestra Senora bay 308
Nngulhue point 2C0
Nuigue river 244
Numancia reef 217
Numpulli point 242
Nunez bank 202
head 62
Nuqui river 418
Nutlandbay 33
O.
Oakebay 122
Oazy harbor 66
tides 66
Obispito cove 301
Page.
Obispo cove. 302
O'Brien island 22
Observation cay 191,228
mount 112
point 250,285,372,406
Observatory islet 138
rock 145
Obstruction sound 126
Occasion cove 127
directions 127
Ochovario port 130
Ocona valley 341
Ocopacove 343
Octavia bay 419
Offing island 72
Ofqui peninsula 176
O'Higgins mount 153
Oldfield anchorage 97
Olivaroad 306
OUeros point 345
Olleta point 199
Ommanney point 162
Onslow island 406
Ooshooia Mission station 21
Orange bank 61
bay 26
tides 26
cape 61
beacon 61
Organ pipes 144
Organos mount 381
Orlebar island 124,164
mount 165
Orosko table , 13
Oroya 354
Ortiz islands 100
Oscurocove 208,280
anchorage 280
supplies 281
tides 209,231,280
Osorio rock 201
Osomobay 101,289
Otaries island 25
Otoque island 436
Otter anchorage - 25
bay 122
island 25
islands 122
Otto fiord 164
Otway bay 37
port 177
directions 178
tides 178
water 112
Ouredo river 420
470
INDEX.
Page.
Onter Pajaros rooks 285
Oyarvid heights 321
mount • 321
P.
Pabellon de Pica 321
anchorage 321
Pacasmayo 374
anchorage 374
caation 374
communication 373
directions 374
lights 374
point 373
river 373
road 373
supplies 374
Pacay cape 336
cove 336
Pachacamac islands 352
Pacheca channel 426
directions 426
island 425
Packewaia bay 21
Packsaddle bay 25
island 25
Pacocha cove 335
Paicavi river 247
Pailad inlet 218
Pailon basin 401
Paita point 378
port 379
anchorage 380
climate 379
communication 379
directions 379
landing 379
light 379
position 379
supplies 379
tides 380
^rock 311
buoy 311
saddle 378
Pajaro island 366
Pajaros island 426
islets 289,320,428
light 289
Niaos island 265"
point 257
rocks 256
islets 285
point 292
rocks 285
Pajonal cove 296
Pftg«. Pajonal Tillage 296
Pakenham cape 150
Palay Island 424
Palena inlet 230
port 229
Palitos cove 278
Palma point 424
village 424
Palmas island 416
Palmer cape 125
Palominos rocks 358
light 356
Palo Mnerto point. 240
shoal 239
Panama 429
bay 421
canal 432
climate 429
coal 430
dock 432
directions 435,437
dues 431
hospitals 430
landing place.. 432
lights 432
mail service 430
railroad 432
telegraph 430
gulf 421
currents 421
climate 421
passages 437
winds , 421
road 432
steamers 431
supplies 430
tides 434
trade 431
water 430
Pande Azucar 141,304
island 303
anchorage 304
current 304
supplies 304
Paugal point 233
Panitao point 226
Pano point 341
Panulcillo point 274
Paposa road 309
caution 309
village 309
Papudo bay 274
port 274
—tides 274
Paquica cape 319
INDEX.
471
Page.
Paquija point 342
Paracas 348
bay 348
lauding 348
capo 348
peninsula 347
Parga cove 234
coal 234
—7- rock 234
Parifias point 380
Paritabay 436
Park bay 31
Parker bay 135
cap© Ill
island Ill
point 135
Paroquet cove 130
Parr point 144
Parra point 256
Parry harbor 70
island...... 137
port 17
directions 17
supplies 18
Parua bay 220
Pasado cape 398
anchorage 398
Pasamayo point 360
Passage inlet 135
island 93
group 108
Passage point 83
caution 84
rock 428
Passages from the Gulf of Pan- ama 437,438
Patache point 321
Patagonia island 160
tides 170
west coast 170
wind 170
Patagonian channels 116
anchorages 117
caution 117,123
routes 117
— supplies 118
winds and weather 118
Patch cove 188
Patena point 422
Patia river 413
Patillo point 363
Patillos islets 321
port 321
Pativilca river 363
valley 363
Pag&
Paul rocks 422
Pauline bay 102
Pawelz fiord 169
Payana point 383,387
shoals 383,387
buoy 383,387
Payne bay 167
Paz island 194
Peach rock 143
Peak island 148
Pearl islands 425
Pearse rock 121
Pechonos point 279
Pecket harbor 67
tides 67
Pecuta island 222
Pedehuiu point 201
Pedernales point 398
Pedro Gonzales island 427
Peguenum point 205
rocks 206
Peje-Perro cape 336
Pelado islet 361,395,429
Pelados mountain 260
Pelican passage 67
Pelicanos head 285
rocks 285
Peligrosa point 124
Pelu point 224
Pena Blanca cove * 293
coal 292
supplies 292
point 296
rock 265
de Lobos islet 263
del Condo rock 240
Sola rock 240
Peiias cape 13
tides 13
gulf 166,173,186
Penguin island 165
islet 188
rock 155
Peninsula island 325
Penitente point 277
rock 278
Penotes point 343
Perch islet 155
Percival reef 110
Perez port 196
Perforated rock 307
Periagua islet 85
Perico island 433
Perique rock 433
Perlas islands 425
472
tNDES:.
Page.
Pemo point 67
Perro point 264
Perry bay 427
tides 427
directions 427
Peru 330
boundaries 330
climate 332
— currents^ tides 332
— earthquakes 332
— general description 330
-^^ passages 333
■ productions 330
— ^ weather 332
winds 331
Pescadores islands 359
landing 352
point 341
Pescetto island 193
Peterborough cathedral 308
Peterel point 83
Petillo point 429
Petley islands 147
Petucura rock 207
rocks 204
Philip bay 65
anchorage 65
tides 66
Phillip cape 111,118
rocks 28
Phipps island 166
Pianguapibay 402
Piazzi island 125
Picala cape 334
Pichalo point 325
Pichicui point 252,275
Pichidanquibay... 275
directions 275
tides 275
Pichiguapi islet 249
Pichilemu point 263
village 263
Pico de Pativiloa 362
Picos point 382
Picton channel 148,166
island 21
Pidorock 208
Piedra point 391,415
Blanca point 303
Negro point 303
de Lobos point 281
reef 281
Piedras point 324
Pierce point 422
Pihuin point 202
Page*
Pike island 106
Pilcachos rocks 286
Pilcomayo rock 281
Pillar cape 38,100
tides 38
Pilot island 141
Pilquenhill 221
Pimentel road 375
Pifias bay 420
anchorage 420
point 420
Pineiro rock 347
Pinta island 408
Pinto point 222
Pinzon island 407
Pirutilcape 200
Pisagua bay 326
point 326
river 326
Pisco 347
bay 347
anchorage 348
directions 349
landing 348
light 348
river 350
tides 348
Pite point 274
Piura river 378
Piures cove 249
Pizura point 378
Plaid island 67
Plata point 309
Playa Baia beach i... 418
Blanca anchorage 254
rock 254
Chica 361
de Agna Amarilla bach 277
de Tanque beach 282
de Tongoi beach 282
del Carbon 234
Grande beach 360,436
Larga 322
Negra anchorage 254
Parda cove 103
anchorages 104
tides 104
inlet 104
point 397
Plumper anchorage 59
bank 59
Policarpo cove 13
Pollard cove 105
Pommer island 164
Pond bay 86
INDEX
473
Page.
Pond mount 86
Ponsonby Sound 25
Poroto point 289
Porpesse cape 67
Porpoise point 130
Porte te river 398
Portland bay 133
anchorage 134
directions 134
tides 134
island 133
Port. See proper name.
Porto Chico 404
Grande 405
Porvenir bay 70
Posa harbor 402
tides 402
Possesion bay 59
tides.... 59
cape 59
beacon 59
mount 93
Post-office bay 406
shoals 406
supplies 406
tides 407
Poulter point 108
Pounds island 129
Powlett point 127
Poyeguapi point 228
Pozo point 280
Prain point 120
Prat island 165
Pratt passage 29
Preservation cove 71
Preussische bank 169
bay 169
Primero point 149
Prince Heinrich island 164
Pringle point 187
Pritchard island 92
Proctor point 103
Progreso cove - 374
settlement 404
Providence bank^ i— 107
cape 106
island 107
anchorage 107
Prowse islands 30
Publications, H. O., List of 487
Pucari shoal 225
Pucatrihue point 236
Puchachailgua inlet 96
Puchepo point 260
Puchoco point 254
Page.
Pnercoshead 437
Puelma inlet 177
Puemac cove 373
point 373
Puerto Americano 196
Arena 195
Ballenas 166
Bueno 129, 168
Chico 166
de Balsas 391
de la Misericordi a 99
Delgado 141
delMorro 142
tides 142
Grande 169,376
la Mar 315
anchorage 316
directions 316
landing 316
supplies 316
tides 316
Nuevo 265
Toro 21
Viejo 265
deCopiap6 297
Pulame point 237
Pulluche channel 191
Pulperia reefs 433
Piilpo rock -^ 301
Puluquibay 223
channel 223
island 223
Pumulmun reef 210
Puna island 387
patch 389
village 388
supplies 389
tides 389
Puno point 67
Punta Arenas 75
anchorage 76
beacon (buoys) 75
communication 75
directions 76
landing 76
light 75
supplies 75
tides 75
Blanca 318
Carreras 77
deViejas 376
Juan Latorre 239
Playa 397
Sampaio 81
SantaMaria 76
474
INDEX.
PaffA.
PuntaViejft :.. 388
Pupuy a island 263
Pnqueldon village 215
supplies 215
Puquen point 275
Purcell islands.... 176
Purgatorio point 276
Puyo island 188
Pyladesbay. 120
Pyramid hill 74
Q.
Qnartermaster island 69
rocks 98
Qnebrada Honda bay 292
T7orks 292,351
Qnedal cape 234
Queen Adelaide archipelago 171
channel 49
directions 49
Quehui island 211
Queilen channel 218
cove 217
point - 217
Qnelen point 276
Qnellon port , 220
ftnpplies 220
tides * 220
Qnemado mount 346
point 346
Quenac island 211
town 211
Qnenche port 209
Queniao point 208
Quenu island 222
Qnenuir point * 233
river 233
Quereo bay 276
Quetalco port 211
Quetalmahue inlet 202
Queten cove 228
Quetralauquen inlet 225
Quetu cove 218
Queule bay 244
— : — promontory 244
river 244
Queullin island 228
Quicavi bluff 209
hill 209
lagoon 209
Quidicoport 247
anchorage.... 247
Quiebra 011a rock 256
Quihua island 221
Qnilaucape 199
Pftgfj.
Qnilan island 199
road 199
Qnilca cove 340
plain 337
river 340
tides 341
valley 340
village 340
Qnilimari village 275
Quillota 270
Quilque point 221
Quilquiao bight 201
Quinchao channel 213
island 211
Quinchedbay 223
harbor 214
village 214
Quintal road '.. 266
Quintergen point 209
Quiutero bay 272
rocks 273
Quintraquin point 204
Quiriquina channel 257
island 256
light 256
Quisco cove 265
Quito 384
rock 365
Quivolgo beach 262
Quod cape 101
R.
Radford hill 90
Rafales bay 22
Raia point 437
Raimapu islets 192
Raimenco cove 250
Ralunbay 227
Rama point 241
Rameses islands 148
Ramilette islet 127
Ramses rock 131
Ranco lake 237
Range peak 283
Ranguil bay 249
Rann cove 236
river 236
Rapelriver 264
shoal 264
Raper cape 186
Rare cove 260
Rat island 134
RayadeTique 220
Ray island 424
Rayo cove 130
tmiiEX.
475
Page.
Redbill islands 141
Bedonda point 225
rock 408
RedondoTOck 436
Bees cape 21
islet 73
Befnge cove 152
port 188
Befugio island 230
Beloncavi inlet 227
sound 225
Bemarquable cape 80
Bemienda cove 310
Bemolinos point 205
Benihue inlet 229
Bennell island 125
Benouard island 120
Bescne point 187
Betreat bay 122
Betriever rock 415
Bey island 426
Beynard point 114
Bhodapass Ill
Bicardo point ._ 191
Bice bay 26
rocks 141
Bichard point 128
Bichards island 121
Bichardson island 105
mount 15
Bichmond cove 153
road 20
Biestrarock 376
Bilau cove 214
tides 214
reef 214
Bimac river 356
Bincon point 309
rocks 309
Bingdove inlet 153
Bio Calle Calle 243
Catrilenfu 242
de los Llanos 242
d'Oro 81
Grande 12
Imperial 245
directions 245
San Juan 242
Torna Galeones 242
Biofrio port 155
directions 155
supplies 155
Bipio point 349
Biquelme island 162
Biyer point 75
Pageb
Rivero island 188
Robert island 131
point 119,158
Boca Blanco 313
Rockisland 103
Rocky fiord 168
inlet 91
islet 132
point 378,381
Rocura point 244
Rogers point 136
Rogethead 124
Rojas island 191
Rolecha cove 228
Romancbe anchorage 25
bay 22
channel 27
Romulo island 136
Ronca point 244
Rosa island 153
Rosario port 143
anchorage 143
directions 143
shoal 225
Ross point 126
Rotoque beach 272
point... 272
Round island 109,357
islet 22
Rous sound 27
Royal road 67
tides 67
Ruff rock 133
Rugged head 146,172
Rulo inlet 224
Rumen point 222
Rumena cape 250
Rundlebank 259
pass 165
Rupert island 85
rocks 83
a
Saboga channel 426
anchorage 426
caution 426
tides , 426
island 425
Saddle of Paita 378
point,. 406
Saguas cove : 342
Saint Abunda ravine 281
Agnes peak 120
Ambrose island 308
Annes peak.... 118
476
INDEX.
Page.
Saint Anthony eaiM 18
caution 18
Bartelome point 127
Bartholomew cape 18
caution 18
Domingo point 263
Elmo bay 427
Felix island 308
Francis bay 39
Isidro cape 79
beacon 79
Jerome point 100
John cape 11
caution 11
harbor 15
light 16
refuge station 16
supplies 16
Joseph bay 98
Malorock 338
Martin cove 24
supplies 24
tides 24
Michael channel 87
point 87
Paulmount 32
rocks 71
Peter rocks 71
Simons head 66
Vincent cape 66,69
anchorage 69
Sal de Obispo 326
point 382
Saladobay 297
point 297
Salango island 395
anchorage 395
tides 395
Salaverrv 370
anchorage 371
landing 371
light 371
supplies 371
Salazar heights 351
Salcedo rock 348
Salient point 149
Saliente point 283
Salina point 279
Salinas bay 360
hill 361
mines 311
mount 361
point 275,360,388
caution 275
river 388
Page. Salinillo core 347
Salto de Fraile 353
bay 352
Sama cove 334
point 329
Samanoo bay 366
anchorage 367
directions 367
supplies 367
tides 367
head 366
Samba river 420
Same point 399
San Andres bay 187
cape 129,133
village 348
Antonio bank 202
cape 235
channel 221
de las Bodegas 265
port 71,265
tides., 71
Angustin bank 224
Bartolme cove 372
Bias channel 171
Brigida point 80
Carlos point 240
deAncudport 202
anchorage . . 203
boat landing. 203
directions . . . 204
lights... 202,203
pilots 202
supplies 203
tides 204
Cristobal island 404
David head 88
Diego cape 13
race 13
tides 20
Estevangulf 175
anchorage 175
port 187
Felipe mount 77
Fernando islands 188
Francisco cape 319, 398
island 352
islet 352
town 399
anchorage 399
supplies 399
Gallan island 347
point 207
Ignacio bay 413
Isidro cape 79
INDEX.
477
Pago.
San Isidro point 65
Jago bay 63
tides 63
Jos^ bank 425
clearing marks 425
island 428
rock 433
shoal 225
Josef river 82
Jnan bay 241
island 71
point 344
port 343
directions 344
tides 344
river, delta 417,433
shoal 123
Lorenzo bay 402
cape 396
island 357
light 356
point 422
Luciano town 314
Marcos point 129
— — Mateo bay 401
cape 128
point 396
Miguel 427
anchorages 427
caution 427
bay 422
dePiura 379
lagoon 83
port 83
Nicholas bay 80
tides 81
port 344
anchorage 345
tides 345
point 344
Pablo cape 13
islet 13,426
Pedro 374
bay 235
cove 317
entrance 402
tides 402
island 197
Nolasco river 232
passage 219
point 234,305
port 198
anchorage 198
tides 198
rocks 235
PagOL San Pedro rocks anchorage 235
sound 86
Piocape 20
Policarpo cove 165
Quentin sound 176
Ramon point 224
Roman cape 173
Salvador island 407
Sebastian bay 12
cape 12
Tadeo river 176
Tomasport 176
Vincente bay 255
cape 13
Sanchez anchorage 308
island 80
Sand bay 173
Sandy bay 125
cove 152
point 75,114,249
anchorages 76
beacon (buoys) 75
— '■ coal 75
communication 75
directions 76
landing 76
light 75
road 75
supplies 75
tides 75
Sanguianga river 413
Santa 369
bay 368
head 369
island 369
river 369
Ana cove 340
hill 393
-light 261
point 261
Anna islands 105
point 77
Casilda point 96
Clara island 387
light 387
tides 390
Cruz island 407
Elena bay 394
tides 395
point 394
light 394
town 394
landing 394
supplies 394
telegraph 394
478
INDEX.
Page.
Santa Fe island 407
Ines cape 13
hill 275
island 32
Lncia cape 171
• Magdalena island 68
caution 68
shoals 68
Maria bay - 351
island 193,251,406
light 251
punta 76
road 251
Marta 425
bank 68,397
buoy 68
island 68
Monica port 96
Rosa 387
islets 346
river 387
Tillage 375
Teresa point 207
Santandar point 363
Santay island '. 391
Santiago cape 172
river ^ 402
Santo Domingo bank 228
port 230
Santos del Mar point 261
Sappho cove 405
Sarco bay 292
Sarmiento bank 56
channel 127
tides 130
mount 12, 72
Satellite patch 62
Saturday harbor 37
Sauce islet 352
Saumarez island 153
Savannah point 424
• '■ river 425
Schapenham bay 26
Schetky cape 36
Schiafflno islets 192
Schiavoni reef 404
Schlucht pass 164
Schomberg cape 35
. cautioii.. 35
Schooner cove 129
Schroeder sound 162
Schweers island 148
Scot island ; 133
Scotchwell harbor I94
Scourfieldbay.- 25
Scout channel 165
island 165
rocks 171
Scylla island 165
Seagull anchorage 25
Sea Lion rooks 370
reach 94,105
Shell channel 37,91
Seal cove 112
island 366
rocks. 149
Search inlet 162
Seaview channel 167
Seaward entry 147
Sebastiana Dona islet 203
Sechurabay 378
town 378
Second Narrows 66
river 78
Sedger river 77
Seguro port 168
Selfe point 125
beacon 126
Selnian rock 207
Senecal islets 22
Seiiora island 427
shoal 427
Sefioret harbor 137
directions 137
Sefiorita island 427
shoal 427
Sentinel hill 265
beacon 265
island 95
Sentry island no
islet 145
Serrano islands I64
Serrate channel 345
Sesambre island 23
Seymour inlet I61
islands 144
Shag island 28
Narrows 33 37
directions 34
tides 33
rock 428
Sharp hill 65
Shearwater islands 121
bank 222
Sheep cove '. 197
Shellnote point 113
Shelter island 29,104,134
Shingle point 393
road 127
Shipton cove 87
INDEX.
479
Pag©. Shoal hayen 67
island 121
beacon 121
ShoUbay 73,118
directions 119
tides 119
port 86
Short point 143
Shoulder peak 37
Sierra Balmacedos 60
Capero range 436
cove 281
Signal hill 285
SilladePaita 378
Silvertop mount 143
Sim rock 125
Simon bay 87
Reyes bank 242
Simpson island 121
port 158
tides 158
Single Tree island 138
Singular peninsula 168
Sir John Narborough islands Ill
Sirena point 263
Sisquelan peninsula 192
Sister islands 155
Sivel promontory 121
Skinner islets 102
Skua islet 146
Skyring harbor 99
anchorages 115
coal 115
directions 115
landing 115
tides 115
islands 191
mount 30
water 114
Slader point... 127
Slogget bay 20
Small cove 197
Smyth channel 119
directions 119
harbor 34
tides 34
Snare bay 135
Snout point 134
Snow sound 88
Snowy inlet 89
Snug bay 81
tides 81
Socorro island 193
Solano bay 419
point 418
Page. Solar bay 352
morro 352
point 352
Soldado point 224,414
Solitaria rock 233
Soltario islet 359
reef 213
Solitary bowlder 114
Sombrero buoy 389
island ....• 165
peak 165
Somerset cape 146
Sopladera point 335
Sotomayer channel 169
Sotomo bay 228
— : tides 228
South America, west coast currents . 184
bank 221
bay 420
cape 18
caution 18
creek 365
Culling island 133
entrance 73
Fraile islet 437
Gate island 142
head 14
island 350
reach 161
rocks 154
sea pass 24
Tortugarock 273
Southerly point 102
Southwest channel 324
pass 165,173
point 83
beacon 83
Spaniard harbor 20
Spanish harbor 99
Spar rock 337
Sparkes island 121
Spartan bight 150
cone 150
Speedwell bay 165
Spencer island 110
Spongier bight 167
Spero rock 138
Spider island 149
Spinsters peaks 293
Spiteful anchorage 61
Squally point 73
Squire point 134
Staines peninsula 127
Stanley island 423
Staples inlet 86
480
INDEX.
Page.
Star cove 104
Staten island 14
olimate 14
tides 14
caution 15
Station patch 137
Staude island 168
Steed rock 109
Steele islet 91
Steep point 344
Stella island 90
Step bill 149
Stephens bay 405
Stewart bay 89,187
harbor 29
island 29
Stoddart point 158
Stokes bay 35
cape 178
anchorage 178
creek 86
inlet 73
point 113
Stonewall anchorage 59
Stormy bay 31
Stortebecker breaker 167
Stosch channel 167
Stowaway cove 141
Straggler islands 118
Strain island 423
Stratford island 138
Stubbenkammer island 168
Stnbenrauch point 71
Stud island 133
Sua 399
bay 399
point 399
supplies 399
Sugarloaf islet 112,350
islets 419
hill 303
mountain 177
rock 256
Sulland 379
Sullensrock 109
Sullivan bay 407
peaks 194
Sulphur rocks 433
Summer island 123
buoy 123
Sunday cape 12, 37
mountain 135
Sunshine point 113
Supe 362
bay 362
Page. Supe bay directions 362
landmarks 362
tides 362
Susannah cove 66
Sutlej anchorage 61
hiU 64
S vetland rock 104
Swaine point 410
Swallow bay 88
Swan bay 101, 114
Sweepstakes Foreland 64
Sylvester point 68
Sylvia channel 107
anchorage 108
cove 107
T.
Tablasbay 278
cape 278
Table of Orosko 13
Taboga island 434
Gridiron 432
rook 434
Taboguilla 434
Tabon island 222
shoal 222
Tabor isle 435
Tac island 210
Tacna 327
Tacora mountains] 329
Tagus cove 408
Taitaocape 188
Talara 381
bay 380
directions 381
light 381
supplies 381
tides 381
point 380
Talbot passage 27
Talcacove 265
point 265
Talcahuano 258
anchorage 258
caution 258
coal 258
dock 257
fort 267
head 258
Ught 258
pilotage 258
port 257
shoals 258
supplies 258
Talcaniiaet 213
INDEX.
481
Talcan island 213
rocks and shoals 213
tides 213
Talinai mount 281
Talisman rock 161
Imoy 161
Taltal point 305
port 305
supplies 305
Tall Tree islet 133
Tamar cape 109
island 110
peninsula 109
port 109
anchorage 110
caution 110
directions 110
tides 110
Tamaya mines 283
Tambillo island 361
TamboDeMora 350
valley 336
Tames cove 315
point 315
Tampa point 395
Tanaca cove 343
Tandy bay 122
point ,. 59
Tang island 167
Tangbac island 196
poiii 196
Tangue 282
Tapado shoal 276
Tapering point 132
Tarapaca headland 322
Tambay - 165
mount 79
Tatao peninsula 179
Tate cape 36
Taura river 391
Tautil island... 224
- — strait 225
Taylo? peak 110
point 86
— —rock 131
Teatinos point 289
Tekenika mission station ...*..«.^.. 25
Telegraph point ..-.*.- 379
Temblador cove 290
Temple inlet *. 136
Tenaun point 210
— anchorage ••• ». 210
— — caution 211
directions ..* 211
tides 210
1943— Fo. 89 31
Page.
Tenglo island 226
Teniente valley 281
Tenquehuen island 188
Tenquelil island 211
Tenui point 201
Teraopoint 216
Terapa island 434
Terhalten island 23
Tern point , 67
Terranislands 112
Terrapin road 405
Tetas point 313
Themis inlet 128
Thetis bay 13
refuge station 13
Thieves sound 29
Thomas island 161
Thorax^ capo 67
Thornton peninsula 162
Three Brothers 13
Finger island 196
Island bay 112
Passesbay 83
Peak islands 120
Peaks cape 172
Peaks mount 82,144
Thomas island 161
Thumb peak 429
Tictocbay 1 229
point 229
Tiefebay 169
Tierra Colorada bay 379
delFuego 1,11
anchorages 8
barometer 2
thermometer 4
currents 5
-^ fogs 5
general remarks 1
icebergs 6
kelp 1
— mission stations 9
natives 9
northeast coast 13
— passages 12
settlements 9
soundings 8
south coast 20
— ' tidal stream 38
— westcoast 20
^ winds, weather^ ell- mate ».. 1
Tikepoint 334
Tilgo island 289
Tilly Bay 85
482
INDEX.
Page.
TiUy Bay tides 85
Tiqne point 220
Tiqnia reef 211
Tirna bay 247
cape 246
river 246
Titicacalake 337
TituB islets 127
Tizard anchorage 137
directions 138
Tocopilla •.. 318
communication 318
rock 318
Tola village 402
Tolten river 245
Tom bay 137
anchorages 137
tides 138
port 30
Tomacalla point 360
Tomas point 362
Tom6 259
bay 259
directions 259
communication 259
light 259
supplies 259
Tomosi river ., 437
Toms pass 87
Tongoibay 282
peninsula 282
port 282
supplies 283
tides 283
Tontado beach 292
Topar island 140
Topara river 350
Topazerock 205
Tope Blanco islet 304
Topocalma point 263
road 263
'tides 263
shoal 264
Torocay 228
channel 164
island 155
point 264
reef 291
rock 337
shoal 264
Torrecillas hill 247
Tortola island 305
islets ..; 433
Tortolita island 433
Tortuga island . - 366
Pago. Tortuga mount 367
peak 413
point 285
light 285
rock 273
Totoral Bajo cove 296
cove 280,282
de Lengua de V aca cove 282
point 282,296
Totoralillo bay 289
directions 290
Tower island 408
rocks 35
To wnshend harbor 29
Trahuilco river 237
Traiguen island 188, 197
port 192
Trailicura river 249
Traua cove 250
Tranco cove 250
Tranqui island 217
Transition bay 74
Transito island 196
Trapiche island 427
Trarao point 260
Treble island 28
Tree bluff 72
island 113
point 78
Trefusis bay 27
Trentelhue point 228
Tres Cruces point 205, 265
Cuevas bay 251
Hermanas bank 241
buoy 241
Marias Islets 348
Montes cape 178
current 179
gulf 177
I>eninsula 173
: Puntas mines 302
Tribune rock 64
Trinidad channel 139, 172
barometer..^ 140
directions 150
general remarks 139
north shore... 146
south shore^ 140
supplies 151
tides 161
winds 140
point 241
river 428
Triton bank 63
buoy 63
INDEX.
483
Page.
Triton bank tides... 63
Trivett point *. 125
Trolloperock 425
Trnjillana channel 346
Trujillobay 1 98
city 371
Tmmao * 237
Tuahuencayeo channel 192
Tubildadport 209
Tubul cliffs 252
river 252
Tucapel point 247
Viejo 248
Tudorrange 172
Tuesday bay 98
cove 99
tides 99
Tamaco island 412
port 412
anchorage. 413
caution 413
directions 412
Tuman bay 263
anchorage 263
tides 263
Tumbes peninsula 256
point.... 256
Tumbez 383
bay 382
river 382
anchorage 383
caution 383
landing 383
Tungo village 346
Tunquen bight 266
Turn cape 32,74
point 114,135,149
— caution 135
Turtle rock 104
Tussac rocks 30
Tayra river 425
U.
Uchaguapi islet 249
Ulloa peninsula 85
UnderhUlbay 92
Unfit bay 130
Uuionsound 126
rocks 324
Unit island 138
Unsafe cove 342
Upright bay 95
cape 95
port • 95
Urava island 434
Utiarteport 96
PAge.
Ursula island 164
Usaraga river 417
Usborne islands 188
mount 362
Usefulhill 64
Useless bay 70
cove 187
Ushuwaia bay ,.. 22
anchorage 22
tides 22
mission station 21
Utarupa channel 191
Utriaport 418
V.
Vaca point, Lengua de .*. 282
Yacamonte point 435
Vaguila rock 424
Vainillila river 401
Valao chico 387
Valdez port 71
Valdivia 243
bay 239
caution 239
current 242
hills 239
port 239
current 242
light 242
river 243
^ tides 243
supplies 243
rock 347
village 395
Valentine cape 98
harbor 98
Valentynbay 20
cape 71
Valladolid rock 435
Valle point 63
Vallena cove 101
Vallenar island 193
islands 193
road 193
town 293
Valparaiso 269
bay 268
anchorage 269
buoys 267
caution 267
coal 269
communication 270
directions 268
docks 269
earthquakes 270
484
INDEX.
Valparaiso bay light 268
mail services 270
northers 270
pilots 269
position 270
powder buoy 267
sapplies 269
telegraph 270
tides 268
timesignal 270
tugs 270
weather signals 271
bank 206
Van islands 148
Vancouver island 128
port-.^ 19
tides 15
Vandermeulen inlet 163
Vano points 281
Varillasmo head 233
Vaudreuil rock 155
Venado point 433
Venados island 243
Ventana point 280
Ventanilla cove 272
point 272
Veragua coast 272
Verde island 277
point 401
river 401
Vereker island ^ 124
mount 141
Vernal mount 73
Vernicita point 412
Veto inlet 153
Viciosa island 412
Vichuquen lagoon 262
Victoria channel 25
mount 81
Victory cape Ill, 170
pass 126
Viejas islaud 346
Vielcove 249
islands 120
point 137
Vigia de San Pablo island 414
Vilcun mount 229
Villa de Burdoes rock 255
Rica volcano 245
Village point 91
Villiers point 113
Vilos bay 277
anchorage 277
caution - 277
tides 277
P»go.
Vilos bay supplies 27^
point — ...— 276
town 277
Vi&a del Mar beach 268
Vinceisland 106
Viqne cove 435
Virag9 x>oint 423
rocks 171
Virgins cape 57
> rocks off 57
reef _. 57
Viruriver - 370
Vitalia island 155
Vitor gorge 326
Vinda island 366,369
rocks 352
Vivero bay 377
Viveros island 426
Vivian island 113
Voces bay 78
light 78
Voilier cove 22
Volage bay 91
VolcanMisti 336
Vorpostcm island 172
W.
Wafer bay 41©
islets 4K>
Wager island 165
mountain 165
Wake island 135
Wakefield passage 35
Wales point 16
Walker bay 135
shoal 68
step 135
Wallis harbor 99
islets 89
mark 83
shoal 68
buoy 68
sound 96
Wardisland 108
peninsula 127
Warp bay 32
Warrington cove 34
Washington channel 25
island 423
Water cove 26
Waterfall bay 163
Watering bay 414
Waterman island 28
Weather point , — 197
rock 37
INDEX.
485
Page.
Webb cove 408
inlet 28
point...-- — 106
Webster cape. 19
rock - 141
Week islands 37
Welcome bay 125
Weliard island 92
Wellington island 146, 165, 173
Wenman islet 409
West bay 89
cape • 23
channel 132,155,172
Fury rocks 30
point 82
Van gronp - 148
Western rock 173
Westhof island 196
Westley island 102
Westminster hall Ill
Weston point 108
Wet island 33
Whaleboat sound 28
Whale point 85
sound 87
Whales Back spit 354
Wharton mount 90
Wheeler islets 131
White bay 88
cliff 138
caution 138
Horse island 171
islets 366
Kelpcove 162
rock 198
point 265
rocks 91
topped islets 304
Whitsandbay 66
Wickham bay 113
channel 191
island 72
Wide bay 131
channel 152
Wigwam island 83
point 133,138
Wilcke fiord 168
Willesbay 72
tides 72
William bay 126
channel 192
point 137,156
wreck 156
Williams island 162
Williwaw bay 1 95
Page.
Wilshere fiord 146
Wilson cove 135
mount 347
Winds, coast of Chile 184
Ecuador 385
Peru a32
Tierra del Fuego 5
Coquimbo 286
gulf of Panama 421
Windward bay 117
Wingate island 137
Wise point 03
Wodsworth bay 98
WoUaston islands 23
Wolsey sound 144
Wood cove 112
islands 27
Woods bay 82
tides 82
Woodcock mount 33
Wooding point 104
Wreck bay 404
light 405
tides 405
point 173,404
rock 206
I Wren island 83
I Wyatt cove 27
I Wyndham mount 103
Xaultegua gulf 105
Xavier island 174
port 174
Y.
Yacht bay 90
Yalad cove 219
Yalbay 216
cove 216
point 216
Yanez bay 249
Yanteles mountain 229
Yapes cove 322
islets 322
point 322
Yates port 192
tides 192
Yeculinao point 218
Yencouma isle 199
Yerba Buena cove 335
hamlet 289
point 335
Yerbas Buenas fort 267
York bay 19
486
IN):)EX.
P*ge.
YorkhiU 107
minster 28
— ^road 84
Z.
Zach peninsula 126
Zampo Palo 388
■ — range 388
Zafia point 374
Zapallar cove 274
Zapo mount 420
Pago.
Zapotal point 398
Zarate island 347
Zealous anchorage 58
island 164
islet 159
buoy 159
rock 257
Zehnilauquen river 237
Zoraidarock 289
Zorrilos 382
light 382
UST OF HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE PUBLICATIONS, ETC.
NO.
TITLE OF BOOK.
22 45
99
100
104 86
64
73
78
23
25
102
105
15
NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.
General Examination of the Atlantic Ocean. By Capt. Charles Philippe De Kerhallet. Translated by Capt. R. H. Wymau,
U.S.N. 8vo. 1870. Hydrographic Office
Supplement No. 1. 1886. Hydrographic Office
General Directions for the Atlantic Ocean. From the French of F. Labrosse. Second edition. Translated by Lieut. Commander J. B. Coghlan, U. S. N. 8vo. 1873. Hydrographic Office
Nova Scotia, Bay of Fundy, and South Shore of Gulf of St. Law- rence to Miramichi Bay. Compiled by R. H. Orr. 8vo. 1891.
Hydrographic Office
Supplemen ^>. 1896. Hy drographi cOffice
Gulf and River St. Lawrence and Cape Breton Island, including Cape Breton, Magdalen, and Anticosti Islands. Compiled by
R.H.Orr. 8vo. 1891. Hydrographic Office
Supplement. 1894. Hydrographic Office
The Depths that Can be Carried into the Harbors and Anchorages on the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts of the United States. Prepared by Gustavo Herri e. (Pamphlet.) 1893. Hydrographic Office
The Navigation of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. Vol. I. The West India Islands, including the Bahama Banks and Islands, and the Bermuda Islands. Third edition. Com- piled by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1892. Hydrographic Office.... Supplement. Third edition. 1896. Hydrographic Office
The Navigation of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. Vol. 11. The Coast of the Mainland from Key West, Florida, U. S., to the Orinoco River, Venezuela, with the Adjacent Islands, Cays, and Banks. Third edition. Revised by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1896. Hydrographic Office
Newfoundland and Labrador. Compiled by Lieut. W. W. Gil- patrick and Ensign John Gibson, U. S. N. 8vo. 1884. Hydro- graphic Office
Newfoundland and Labrador. Supplement. 8vo. 1886. Com- piled by Lieut. R. G. Davenport and Ensign John Gibson, U. S. N.
Hydrographic Office
Supplement No. 2. 1891. Hydrographic Office
Supplement No. 3. 1895. Hydrographic Office
Winds, Currents, and Navigation of the Gulf of Cadiz, the Western Coasted the Spanish Peninsula, and the Strait of Gibraltar, by Capt. R. H. Wyman, U. S. N. 8vo. 1870. Hydrographic Office. . .
General Examination of the Mediterranean Sea. By Capt. A. Le Gras, I. F. N. Translated by Capt. R. H. Wyman, U. S. N. 8vo. 1870. Hydrographic Office
The Azores, Madeiras, Salvages, Canaries, and Cape Verde Islands. Second edition. Revised by R. C. Ray. 8vo. 1892. Hydro- graphic Office
Supplement. 1895. Hydrographic Office
West Coast of Africa. From Cape Spartel to Cape Agulhas, in- cluding the Islands in Bight of Biafra, Ascension, St. Helena, Tristan da Cunha, and Gough Islands. Second edition. Com- piled by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1893. Hydrographic Office .... Supplement. 1896. Hydrographic Office
Memoir of the Dangers and Ice in the North Atlantic. (Pamphlet.) 1868. Bureau of Navigation... , ,
487
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LIST OF HYDROGBAPHIC OFFICE PUBUCATIONS.
LUt of Hjfdrographio Ofice publicatioiiM, etc, — Continaed.
NO.
TITLB OF BOOK.
PRICK.
93
88
54 55
58
89 84
96
41 415 41a
92 20
85
NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN— Continued.
Ice and loe MoTements in North Atlantic Ocean. By EiiBign Hngb Rodman, U. S. N. (Pamphlet. ) 1890. Hydrographic Office
SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.
East Coast of South America. From the Orinoco River to Cape Vir- gins, including Falkland, South Georgia, Sandwich, and South Shetland Islands. Second edition. Compiled by R. C. Ray,
U. S. N. 8vo. 1894. Hydrographic Office
Sup^ement. 1895. Hydrographic Office
Navigation of the Strait of Magellan. Translated from the French by Commodore J. C. P. de Krafft and Commander William Gib- son, U. S. N. (Pamphlet. ) 1883. Hydrographic Office
Remarks by Capt. M. A. Lef^vre, of the French Navy, on the voy- age of theVandreuil through Patagonian Channels and Magellan Strait. Translated by Lieut. George M. Totten, U. S. N. (Pam- phlet.) 1874. Hydrographic Office
PACIFIC OCEAN.
General Examination of the Pacific Ocean. By Capt. Charles Phil- ippe De Kerhallet, French Imperial Navy. Translated under the direction of CommodoreCharles Henry Davis, U. S. N. 8vo. 1867. Supplement No. 1. 1886. Hydrographic Office
The Navigation of the Pacific Ocean. Translated from, the French of Mons. F. Labrosse, by Lieut. J. W. Miller, U. S. N. 8vo. 1874. Hydrographic Office. Republished 1893
ne West Coast of South America, including Magellan Strait, Tierra del Fnego, and the Outlying Islands. Second edition. Compiled by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1896. Hydrographic Office
West Coast of Mexico and Central America, from the United States to Panama, including the Gulfs of California and Panama. Sec- ond edition. Compiled by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1893. Hy- drographic Office
Supplement. 1896. Hydrographic Office
The Coast of British Columbia. From Juan de Fuca Strait to Port- land Canal, including Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands. Compiled by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1891. Hydrographic
Office
Supplement. Third edition. 1895. Hydrographic Office
List of Reported Dangers in the North Pacific Ocean. 8vo. 1871.
Hydrographic Office
Supplement No. 2. 1891. Hydrographic Office
Supplement to Reported Dangers in the North Pacific Ocean. Com- piled and arranged by Commander William Gibson, U. S. N. 8vo. 1880. Hydrographic Office
List of Reported Dangers in the South Pacific Ocean* Compiled and arranged by Lieut. J. E. Pillsbury, U. S. N. 8vo. 1879. Hy- drographic Office
Supplement. 1891. Hydrographic Office
Ice and Ice Movements in Bering Sea and the Arctic Basin. By Ensign E. Simpson, U. S. N. (Pamphlet.) 1890. Hydrographic Office
Supplement No. 2 to Directory for Bering Sea and Coast of Alaska. 1895. Hydrographic Office
INDIAN OCEAN.
Sailing Directions of the Indian Ocean, the Winds, Monsoons, Cur- rents, and Passages, including also the Java Bea, Sulu Sea, Ara- fura Sea, and the Philippine Islands. Compiled by Lieut. F. £.
Sawyer, U. S. N. 8vo. 1887. Hydrographic Office
Revised Supplement. 1894. Hydrographic Office
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LIST OP HYDEOGRAPHIC OFFICE PUBLICATIONS.
489
List of HydrograplUc Ofice publieatumBy etc, — Contianed.
NO.
24
108
108 Partlll.
108 Partlll. Supp.
108 Part IV.
30 31
32
TITLE OF BOOK.
PSICB.
' /
72
9
13
17
71
106
66
57 90 91
INDIAN OCEAN— Continxied.
General Examination of Indian Ocean, with Direoticms for theNayi-
fation of Torres Straits, etc. By Capt. Charles Philippe De Ker- allet, I. F. N. Translated by Capt. R. H. Wyman, if. S. N. 8vo. 1870. Hydrographic Office
LAKES.
Sailing Directions for the Great Lakes and Connecting Waters.
Second edition. Revised by R. C. Ray, U. S N. 8vo. 1896.
Hydro^ri^hic Office
Sailing directions for Lake Huron, Straits of Mackinac, St. Clair
and Detroit Rivers, and Lake St. Clair. Prepared by Lieut. D.
H. Mahan, U. S. N., assisted by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1895.
Hydrographic Office
Sailing Directions for North Channel of Lake Huron and Georgian
Bay. Prepared by Lieut. D. H. Mahan, U. S. N., assisted by R. C.
Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1895. Hydrographic Office
Sailing Directions for Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, St. Clair and
Detroit Rivers, and Lake St. Clair. Prepared by Lieut. D. H.
Mahan, U. S. N., assisted by R. C. Ray, U. S. N. 8vo. 1896.
Hydrographic Office.. •.•••
LIGHT LISTS.
List of Lights (No. 1) of North and South America (excepting the United States), including the West Indies and Pacific Islands. Compiled by Boynton Leach. 4to. 1896. Hydrographic Office..
List of Lights (No. 2) of South and East Coasts of Africa and the East Indies, including the East India Islands, China, Japan, Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. Compiled by Boynton Leach. 4to. 1896. Hydrographic Office
List of Lights (No. 3) of the West Coasts of Africa, Europe, and the Mediterranean Sea, including the Adriatic, the Black Sea, and the Sea of Azof. Compiled by Boynton Leach. 4to. 1895. Hydro- graphic Office
NAVIGATION BOOKS,
List of Geographical Positions. By Lieut. Commander F. M. Green, U.S.N. 4to. 1883. Bureau of Navigation
The New American Practical Navigator. By Nathaniel Bowditch, LL. D. 8vo. Edition of 1896. Bureau of Navigation
Bowditch's Useful Tables. 8vo. Edition of 1896. Bureau of Navi- gation
Proj ec tion Tables. 8yo. 1869. Bureau of Navigation
Azimuth Tables for parallels of latitude between 61^ N. 61^ S. By Lieuts. Seaton Schroeder and W. H. H. Southerland, U. S. N. 4to. Edition of 1893. Hydrographic Office
Azimuth Tables for parallels of latitude between 40^ N. and 50^
N. For the Great Lakes. 4to. 1894. Hydrographic Office
Supplement to 106. Equation of Time for the years 1894, 1895, 1896, and 1897
Arctic Azimuth Tables for parallels of latitude between 70^ and 80^. Prepared by Lieuts. Seaton Schroeder and Richard Wain- wright, U. S. N. 12mo. 1881. Hydrographic Office
Tables for Finding the Distance of an Object by two Bearings. (Pamphlet.) 1874. Hydrographic Office
The Development of Great Circle Sailing. By G. W. Littlehales. 8vo. 1889. Hydrographic Office
Table of Meridianal Parts for the Terrestrial Spheroid, Compres- sion ?y :j^4K?- By G. W. Littlehales and J. S. Siebert. 8vo. 1889. Hydrographic Office ....•.,.
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LIST OF HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE PUBLICATIONS.
List of Sydrographio Offioe publioaiianB, ete, — Continned.
NO.
109
109a
111
77
101
87
110 65
65a
656
76
97
94
TITLE OF BOOK.
PRICE.
NAVIGATION BOOKS— Continned.
ContributionB to Terrestrial Ma^etism— The Variation of the Compass. Compiled by Lieut. Chaancey Thomas, U. S. N. Svo. j 1894. Hydrographic Office ' $1.00
Contribations to Terrestrial Magnetism — The Variation of the Compass. Compiled by G. W. Littlehales, C. E. 8vo. 1895. Hydrographic Office 1. 00
Tables showing the Local Mean Time of the Sun's Visible Rising and Setting for Each Degree of Latitude between 60° N. and 60° S., and for Each Degree of the Sun's Declination. Prepared by Ensign George Wood Logan, U. S. N. 4to. 1896. Hydrographic Office
METEOROLOGICAL.
Practical Hints in regard to West India Hurricanes. By Lieut. G. L. Dyer, U. S. N. 1887. (Pamphlet. ) Hydrographic Office . . . .
Nautical Monograph No. 5. The Great Storm off the Atlantic Coast of the United States, March 11-14, 1888. By Everett Hayden, U.S.N. 1888. Hydrographic Office
SURVEYS.
The Methods and Results of the Survey of the West Coast of Lower California by the Officers of the U. S. S. Ranger during the season of 1889 and* 1890. By Lieut. O. W. Lowry,* U. S. N., and G. W Littlehales. 8vo. 1^2. Hydrographic Office
SIGNALS.
International Signal Code. Revised and corrected to 1894, includ- ing the semaphore and storm signal service of the maritime coun- tries, the life-saving service and time ball system of the United States. 8vo. 1894. Bureau of Navigation
MISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS.
The Gulf Stream. By Lieut. Commander John E. Pillsbury, U. S. N. (Pamphlet.) 1894. Hydrographic Office
Report on the Telegraphic Determination of Differences of Longi- tude in the West Indies and Central America. By Lieut. Com- mander F. M. Green, U. S. N. 4to. 1877. Bureau of Navigation. .
Report on the Telegraphic Determination of Differences of Longi- tude on the East Coast of South America. By Lieut. Commander F. M. Green, U. S. N. 4to. 1880. Bureau of Navigation
Report on the Telegraphic Determination of Longitude in the East Indies, China, and Japan. By Lieut. Commander F. M. Green, U. S. N. 4to. 1881-^82. Bureau of Navigation
Report of Telegraphic Determinations of Longitudes in Mexico, Central America, and West Coast of South America. By Lieut. Commander C. H. Davis, Lieuts. .1. A. Norris and Charles Laird, U.S.N. 4to. 1885. Bureau of Navigation
Report on the Telegraphic Determination of Longitudes in Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, and on the North Coast of South America, with the Latitudes of the Several Stations. By Lieuts. J. A. Norris and Charles Laird, U. S. N. To which is appended a Report on Magnetic Observations in Mexico and the West Indies. By Lieut. Charles Laird and Ensigns J. H. L. Holcombe and L. M. Garrett, U. S. N. 4to. 1891. Bureau of Navigation
Report of the International Meteorologic Congress at Paris, 1889. By Lieut. Aaron Ward, U. S. N. (Paraplet. ) 1890
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LIST OF HYDBOGRAPHIC OFFICE PUBLICATIONS.
491
List of Hydrographio Office publicationa, etc, — ContiDued.
NO.
TITLE OF BOOK.
PRICE.
MISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS- Continued.
95 The Average Form of Isolated Submarine Peaks, and the interval which should obtain between deep-sea soundings taken to dis- close the character of the bottom of the ocean. By 6. W.
Littlehales. 8vo. 1890. Hydrographic OflSce
98 Report on Uniform System for Spelling Foreign Geographic Names. . By Lieut. C. M. McCarteney, U. S. N., Boynton Leach, and
Gustavo Herrle. (Pamphlet.) 1891. Hydrographic Office
103 Submarine Cables ; Instruments and Implements Employed in Cable Surveys; Theory of Cable Laying; Specifications and Costs; Submarine Cable Systems of the World. Prepared by G. W.
Littlehales. 8vo. 1892. Hydrographic Office
107 Wrecks and Derelicts in the North Atlantic Ocean. 1887 to 1893, inclusive. 4to. 1894. Hydrographic Office
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AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE CHARTS,
SAILING DIRECTIONS, ETC.
AGENffS IN THE UNITED STATES.
Geo. B. Carpenter & Co., Nob. 202-208 South Water street, Chicago, 111.
Rand, McNally & Co., Nob. 166-168 Adams street, Chicago, 111.
H. Channon & Co., Nos. 24 and 26 Market street, Chicago, 111.
The Marine Record Publishing Co., No. 308 Royal Insurance Btiilding, Chicago, HI.
The M. I. Wilcox Cordage Supply Co., Nos. 210-216 Water street, Taledlo, Ohio.
Burrows Brothers' Company, Nos. 23-27 Euclid avenue, Clereland, Ohio.
The Marine Record Publishing Co., Western Reserve Building, Cleveland, Ohio.
The Marine Review, No. 516 Perry Paine Building, Cleveland, Ohio.
Wm. J. Sell, No. 830 State street, Erie, Pa.
H. D. Edwards & Co., Nos. 16-24 Woodward avenue, Detroit, Mich.
J. W. Westcott, foot of Woodward avenue, Detroit, Mich.
Howard C. Bristol, U. S. Signal Observer, East Tawas, Mich.
Kendall Marine Reporting Company, Port Huron, Mich.
Capt. A. O. kruger, Marquette, Mich.
P. M. Church, Sault Sainte Marie, Mich.
A. Hirsch, Duluth, Minn.
John S. Parsons, comer of West Cayuga and Water streets, Oswego, N. T.
Geo. Hall Coal Company, Ogdensburg, N. Y.
Matthews, Northrup & Co , Nos. I7d-183 Washington street, Buffalo, N. T.
Joys Bros. & Co., No. 205 East Water street, Milwaukee, Wis.
Charles S. Barker, West Superior, Wis.
Frank Long, Publisher, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
C. H. Cummings, Eastport, Me.
N. C. Wallace, Millbridge, Me.
Albert W. Bee, Bar Harbor, Me.
Spear, May & Stover, No. 408 Main street^ Rockla&d, Me.
George Bliss, Waldobo>n>, Me.
William O. McCobb, Booth Bay Harbor, Me.
Charles A. Harriman, Bath, Me.
William Senter & Co., No. 51 Exchange street, Portland, Me.
P. A. Chisolm, No. 161 Main street, Gloucester, Mass.
Charles C. Hutchinson, No. 152 State street, Boston, Mass.
Samuel Thaxter <& Sou, No. 125 State street, Boston, Mass.
E. St. Croix Oliver, Vineyard Haven, Mass.
C. R. Sherman & Son, New Bedford, Mass.
George A. Stock well. No. 12 Board of Trade Building, Prorldenee^Brl.
J. M. K. South wick, 94k 185 Thames street, Newport, Rrl.
C. C. Ball, Block Island.
James H. Stivers, No. 72 Water street, Stdningtcm, Com.
A. H. Kellam, New Haven, Conn.
493
494 LIST OF AGENTS.
T. S. 4& J. D. Negus, No. 140 Water street, New York CJity.
R. Merriirs Sons, No. 110 Wall street, New York City. Michael Rapp <& Co., No. 39 South street, New York City.
D. Eggert's Sons, No. 3 Hanover street, New York City. John Bliss &, Co., No. 128 Front street, New York City. Thomas Manning, No. 45 Broadway, New York City.
E. Steiger & Co., No. 25 Park Place, New York City. Frank M. Porch, customhouse, Bridgeton, N. J. Riggs & Bro., No. 221 Walnut street, Philadelphia, Pa.
F. J. Sloane & Co., comer Pratt street and Spoor's wharf, Baltimore, Md. M. y. O'Neal, No. 502 East Pratt street, Baltimore, Md.
J. .1. Chapman, No. 608 Thirteenth street, Washington, D. C.
W. H. Lowdermilk & Co., No. 1424 F street NW., Washington, D. C.
J. H. Hickcox, No. 906 M street NW., Washington, D. C.
Wm. Ballentine & Son, No. 428 Seventh street NW., Washington, D. C.
R. Bell's Sons, South Fairfax street, Alexandria^ Ya.
C. F. Greenwood & Bro., No. 158 Main street, Norfolk, Va.
Vickery & Co., No. 124 Main street, Norfolk, Va.
Frank Stanton, No. 1301 Market street. Wheeling, W. Va.
Godfrey Hart, No. 24 South Front street, Wilmington, N. C.
W. N. Harris, with Geo. Harris & Co., North Water street, Wilmington, N. C.
James Allen & Co., Charleston, S. C.
J. P. Johnson, customhouse. Savannah, Ga.
W. S. Cherry <& Co., No. 89 Bay street. Savannah, Ga.
J. W. Howell, customhouse, Femandina, Fla.
The H. and W. B. Drew Co., Jacksonville, Fla.
Robert Ransom, Titusvllle, Fla.
Brelsford Bros., Palm Beach, Fla.
H. B. Boyer, Key West, Fla.
Alfred Brost, office of lighthouse inspector. Key West, Fla.
Babbitt & Co., Franklin street, Tampa, Fla.
CD. Webster, Nos. 83 and 85 Tarpon avenue, Tarpon Springs, Fla.
Henry Horsier & Co., Nos. 706 and 708 South Palafox street, Pensacola, Fla.
McKenzie, Oerting & Co., No. 599 South Palafox street, Pensacola, Fla.
K. B. Harvey, Punta Gorda, Fla.
Costello & Bates Co., Nos. 24 and 26 Front street. Mobile, Ala.
Jas. I. Friar, Pascagoula, Miss.
L. Frigerio (widow), No. 1019 Canal street. New Orleans, La.
Woodward, Wight & Co., Nos. 38, 40, 42 Canal street. New Orleans, La.
Frigerio & SchuUy, No. 85 Royal street. New Orleans, La.
Chas. F. Trube, Galveston, Tex.
E. M. Burbeck, corner Fifth and D streets, San Diego, Cal.
W. L. Banning, San Pedro, Cal.
StoU & Thayer Co., No. 139 South Spring street, Los Angeles, Cal.
H. A. C. McPhail, Santa Barbara, Cal.
S. S. Amheim, No. 8 Stuart street, San Francisco, Cal.
Dillon & Co., No. 310 California street, San Francisco, Cal.
Louis Weule, No. 418 Battery street, San Francisco, Cal.
H. Lawrenson, No. 6 Market street, San Francisco, Cal.
James E. Matthews, Eureka, Humboldt County, Cal.
Griffon & Reed, Astoria, Oreg.
J. K. Gill & Co., Nos. 28 and 30 First street, Portland, Oreg.
Waterman & Katz, Port Townsend, Wash.
Yaughen & Morrill, Tacoma, Wash.
Boeringer & Co*i Tacoma, Wash.
1
I
•X
n
LIST OF AGENTS. 495
Frank P. Dow, New Whatcom, Wash. Lowman &, Hanford, Seattle, Wash. W. H. Pumphrey, Seattle, Wash. Edward De Groff, Sitka, Alaska.
AGENTS IN FOREIGN PORTS.
T. N. Hibben & Co., No. 69 Government street, Victoria, British Columbia.
Albert Ufford, No. 58 Cordova street, Vancouver, British Columbia.
Garrett Byrne, St. Johns, Newfoundland.
Alex. Bain, Port Hawkesbury, Nova Scotia.
Robert H. Cogswell, Halifax, Nova Scotia.
J. & A. McMillan, St. John, New Brunswick.
Heam & Harrison, No. 1640 Notre Dame street, Montreal, Canada.
Hunter & Grant, Hamilton, Ontario.
T. Darling & Co., Nassau, Bahama.
E. J. D. Astwood, Turks Island.
Edwin W. Wilson, Nos. 41 and 43 Obispo street, Havana, Cuba.
Juan B. Carbo, United States vice-consul, Cienfuegos, Cuba.
J. P. Thorsen, St. Thomas, West Indies.
James Gall, Kingston, Jamaica.
John A. Donnatien, Port of Spain, Trinidad, West Indies.
G. Annciaux, United States consulate, Barbados, West Indies.
Conrad Eimbeck, C. E., Guaymas, Mexico.
Para, Brazil, at the consulate.
Manuel Bottini, Montevideo, Uruguay.
Arthur B. Dallas, Pemambuco, Brazil.
St. Helena Island, at the consulate.
John Newton, No. 5 Calle de la Constitucion, Callas, Peru.
Philip, Son & Nephew, Nos. 41 to 51 South Castle street, Liverpool, England.
Alexander Dobbie & Son, No. 18 Clyde Place, Glasgow, Scotland.
V. & M. Lepetit, No. 15 Rue de Paris, Havre, France.
Eckardt & Messtorff, Hamburg, Germany.
Charles Gaupp & Co., Hongkong, China.
Russell L. Webb, Manila, Philippine Islands.
Dorsey Mohun, Consulate, Zanzibar, E. Africa.
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