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R.SZTEZJDER . *TS. . ZTEW YORK
Victorian
914.228
B776b
1849
Joseph Earl and
Genevieve Thornton
Arrington
Collection of 19th
Century Americana
Brigham Young University Library
BRIGHAM YOUNG UNIVERSITY
3 1197 22888 8688
BONCHURCH,
SHANKLIN & THE UNDERCLIFF,
&n& t&eir Ffrinftto,
BESCmiBEB AIB ILMISTKATEB.
BY
W. B. COOKE
LONDON:
W. B. COOKE, 9, CAMDEN SQUARE, CAMBERWELL;
LEGGATT, HAY WARD, & LEGGATT, 79, CORNHILLj
And Sold by all the Principal Booksellers of the Isle of Wight.
1849.
UPB
TO THE READER.
Actuated by a desire to describe with artistical
feeling the extraordinary district of the Isle of
Wight, extending from Shanklin to Black
Gang, the present work is submitted to the
admirers of that enchanting spot, in the hope
it may convey the impression which the scene
itself is calculated to inspire.
Every endeavour has been made to give a
faithful description, and to point out to the
visitor and tourist all the objects of the most
interesting character hitherto unheeded. No
trouble nor expense have been spared to
render this effort of the "pen and pencil"
worthy of public patronage and support.
The work commences with Bonchurch, its
A 2
4 TO THE READER.
ivy-covered rocks, and its luxuriant foliage.
Then succeeds Shanklin, its beautiful Chine,
overspread by trees and verdure, its pleas-
ing vicinity, and the wild region of the
Landslip at East End. Ventnor and the
Undercliff follow ; and the work terminates
with Black Gang, on whose dark Chine no
vegetation whatever appears, and which, in its
gloomy grandeur, like a giant, seems brooding
beside the vast and barren desolation of the
great Landship at Knowles.
Whose girdled cliffs at sea loom large and high,
Like steps colossal leading to the sky !
And where its yawning cavern, on the shore,
Repeats the thunder of the ocean's roar !
BONCHURCH.
Amongst all the pictorial scenery of the Isle
of Wight, Bonchurch stands pre-eminent in
beauty. Its lofty range of uppercliff, chiefly
formed of the green sand-stone strata, crowned
by the most luxuriant ivy, immediately attracts
the notice, and excites the admiration of every
visitor. Above this craggy wall, rises the
mighty mass of mountain-down, whose smooth
sloping surface so finely contrasts with the
richness of the foliage displayed below, —
trees of the greatest variety, branching out in
the most beautiful forms, while their stems
are clothed with creeping evergreens, that
are clinging to them, or falling in grace-
ful tresses waving in the air. Amidst this
6 BONCHURCH.
exuberant mass peeps forth the white villa,
sunlit and shining, between the dark green
trees. And hark ! the gurgling of the running
brook !
The stranger, while approaching Bonchurch
from Ventnor by the high road, observes, on
the left, the delightful Cottage called St.
Boniface House, thatched,* and embosomed in
trees, and backed by the noble Down, which
rises abruptly behind it. Passing onwards,
the Vale of Bonchurch begins. Here, on the
way-side, to the left, appears a bold, rocky
scene, from whose dark chasm beneath issues
a copious stream of the most pellucid water,
filling a small pond, or natural basin con-
taining gold and silver fish, and so transparent
as to show the aquatic plants at its bottom, in
the most lovely green, while its glassy surface
is here and there adorned by the water-lily,
its white bloom resting on its expanded leaf.
From the upper part of the rock descend a
* In June, 1849, the picturesque thatch has been replaced by
slates.
BONCHURCH. 7
few silvery threads of crystal water, splashing
and sparkling in the morning's sun, exhibiting
at times, in front of the dark chasm, the
prismatic colours of the rainbow.
Proceeding along the vale, we hear the
gushing of the Waterfall, — a recently-formed
cascade, admirably contrived by the spirited
proprietor of Pulpit Rock,* who seems to spare
neither expense nor trouble in improving and
adorning this little earthly paradise. The
stream is abundant, and is so tastefully ma-
naged, as to fall on successive ledges, display-
ing the appearance of a cluster of cascades
playing in various directions. The water then
takes a serpentine course, between banks
overspread by branching shrubs, and flows
beside the road, towards the Pond of Bon-
church, which it replenishes, and then makes
its way by a subterraneous passage, and again
opens on the side of the Old Church, from
* This handsome addition to the heauties of Bonchurch, was
converted from a rude osier-bed into the elegant scene it now
presents. It was completed early in the spring of 1849.
8 BONCHURCH.
whence it runs rapidly towards the cliff upon
the shore, —
When, falling on the beach below,
It mingles with the sea ;
Like mortal life, in varied flow,
To meet Eternity !
Climate.
Situated at one extremity of the kingdom,
great indeed must be the attraction possessed
by Bonchurch and its vicinity, since that place
has been selected for the residence of invalids
by the highest Medical Authorities; and the
importance which is attached to its climate
cannot be more fully proved, than by consider-
ing that persons of the utmost respectability
travel annually hundreds of miles, to avail
themselves of that air, and to enjoy those
alleviations of suffering which are in vain
sought in other parts of Great Britain. A
man must have a strong conviction of the
salubrity of a district who, even under the best
BONCHURCH. 9
medical advice, will leave his comfortable home
and his family, to spend a few months in a
secluded spot like that we are about to de-
scribe. But many strangers to the Island,
hearing of the mildness of the climate of the
Undercliff in winter, conclude that the heat
in summer must be in proportion great and in-
convenient. Such is, however, far from being
the case, the perpetual verdure of the spot,
the abundance of foliage, together with the
influence of the refreshing sea-breeze, which
at Bonchurch is particularly prevalent, render
the summers in this highly-favoured place com-
paratively cool and delicious; and an evening
or morning at Bonchurch, in the hottest months
of autumn, when the sun's direct rays, before
six in the morning and after six in the evening,
are intercepted by the lofty Downs, can only
be properly appreciated when known from
actual experience. There is, perhaps, no other
climate in all England so truly grateful to the
feelings at this season of the year; the lower
houses at Bonchurch being at least one
A3
10 BONCHURCH.
hundred feet above the sea-level, "are but
little exposed to the direct influence of the
sea air, a circumstance which (Sir James
Clark, in his work on t Climate,' says), in a
medical point of view, is of important con-
sideration."
Thus the summer climate of Bonchurch is
rather bracing than relaxing ; and those whose
happy lot it is to be located at the Eastern
end of the great UnderclifF, know the value of
an afternoon's stroll in the Landslip, which,
from its south-eastern aspect, has very little
sun after two o'clock.
Exclusive of the magnificent and sublime
scenery of Bonchurch and its immediate neigh-
bourhood, together with that treasure in its
climate, which is acknowledged by all, the
UnderclifF, until lately, had little to offer as an
attraction to visitors. Five or six years since,
Bonchurch presented comparatively but few
inducements to the winter resident. Comforts
and convenience could then but seldom be
found, in consequence of the small number of
BONCHURCH. 11
good houses at that time erected at the spot.
Its high reputation has, however, not only
drawn increasing attention to its site, but Villas
of the first class have since been built, in situa-
tions, than which, no lovelier spots can be
found in the United Kingdom. These Villas
appear to have been constructed and fitted up
with every attention to the pleasant accommo-
dation of inmates, which exalted taste and
liberality can devise. At that time, also,
Ventnor possessed no fashionable and exten-
sive " Esplanade," to relieve the monotony of a
village walk, — no public institutions, — scarcely
a level of one hundred yards in extent, for the
exercise of those whose affliction would render
the ascent of a hill a serious inconvenience.
Here was the anomaly of a watering-place
without possessing proper facilities for sea-
bathing— no fine sandy shore for Lady Visitors
— nothing beyond the romantic loveliness of
its surrounding scenery to induce the yacht-
loving Englishman to venture a landing on
this iron-bound and rock-defended shore; and
12 BONCHURCH.
when, from mere curiosity, he took a hasty
peep at Ventnor, he saw, at best, a straggling,
though somewhat picturesque Town, which,
beyond two or three good Inns, and some
pleasant and retired lodging-houses, could not
be said to boast of much attraction beyond the
consideration that, in this district, thousands
had been restored to their families, whose well-
timed visits had proved the consummate pene-
tration of that distinguished physician already
named,* who, by his work on " Climate," has
conferred so great a benefit on his countrymen.
Notwithstanding, therefore, the extraordinary
Natural Beauties of this vicinity, it is to the
exhilarating air and climate principally, that
we may attribute the rapid change and im-
provement which this district has recently
undergone.
While the artist and author of this unpre-
tending Volume feels unwonted pleasure in
offering these commendations of the spot, by
an anxious endeavour to embody them by
" pencil and by pen," the gradual but steady
* Sir James Clark.
BONCHURCH. 13
development may be easily traced of the great
capabilities of a tract like Bonchurch and
Ventnor becoming thoroughly adapted for the
residence of the afflicted, by the great altera-
tions and additions already made, and still
in progress, contributing to the comfort of
domestic life, without in any way destroying
or mutilating the magnificent picture, which
Nature, in her most beauteous garb, presents
to the eye of the admiring Tourist. This
charming locality is indebted for these im-
provements to the refined taste and unre-
mitting exertions of Dr. Leeson.*
PULPIT ROCK.
The Magnificent View from its Castellated
Tower described.
This superb scene, in its varied character and
richness of foliage, unquestionably surpasses
any other spot in the Island, and will be ap-
preciated by all who possess any taste for the
* Physician to St. Thomas's Hospital, proprietor of Pulpit
Rock, Rosemount, Orchard Leigh, Mountfield, and other pro-
perty in Bonchurch.
14 BONCHURCH.
sublime and beautiful. The following descrip-
tion may give the reader some idea of its
grandeur.
Immediately adjoining the castellated tower,
though at a somewhat lower situation, appears
the Pulpit Rock itself, forming the boldest
feature in the view — its horizontal ledges
weatherbeaten and honeycombed, while the
interstices between them are marked in the
darkest shade. The crag juts forth beyond its
parent cliff, and seems to be almost suspended
in the air, while, stained as it is by various
coloured lichens, it glows in sunlight in the
richest hue. On its summit is placed a rustic
wooden cross.
The head of this singular rock was formerly
surrounded by a wooden enclosure, to which
wras appended a slight bridge, that gave access
to visitors for beholding the neighbouring
scenery, and hence it took its name. The
prospect now afforded from the castellated
tower above it, is enjoyed with much greater
facility, and yields a still more enchanting and
comprehensive view. It is 400 feet above the
BONCHURCH. 15
sea, while the hills behind it rise another 400
feet, giving to these immense Downs an alti-
tude of 800 feet above the level of the sea.
Looking towards the west, over the Town
of Ventnor, which appears from hence to the
greatest advantage, (its Church and spire pic-
turesquely rising near its Grove,) we observe
the turret of the Tower of Steephill Castle
above a distant group of trees, while, beyond
it, the bold range of Uppercliff is seen stretch-
ing from St. Lawrence as far as the turn of
the coast towards Niton,, a distance compre-
hending the most romantic scenery of the
Island; while the whole is bounded by the
wide-spread sea, in the magnificent curve of a
semicircle of the most brilliant blue.
Immediately below us, are seen the curi-
ously terraced grounds of Pulpit Rock, so
remarkable for their charming variety. By
cutting away and removing a large portion of
the cliff, a lawn of considerable extent has
been obtained, where Nature had previously
presented nothing but a rugged steep. Several
caverns (one of them of a large size and of most
16 BONCHURCH.
extraordinary formation) have been opened, by
removing the earth and fragments of stone
with which they have been filled up since the
disruption of the cliff.
In one of the caverns is a most perfect and
unique specimen of the beak of an Ammonite,
which was removed while excavating the rock
for the building of Rosemount, a villa con-
tiguous to Pulpit Rock. From hence the
handsome Villa, named Pulpit Rock, is seen
below. A mossy lawn of the finest verdure,
sloping to the south and west, bounded on its
northern side by overhanging rocks, amidst
which, geraniums, mignionette, verbenas, petu-
nias, and a variety of other greenhouse plants
flourish all winter long. Parterres of fragrant
flowers, and walks adorned at their sides by
the choicest shrubs, add to the charming va-
riety of the scene ; whilst winding paths, along
terraced slopes, lead to sequestered alcoves,
rocky grots, and shady bowers ; and beneath
are seen trees of luxuriant growth overhanging
the vale. In a flower-garden belonging to these
extensive grounds, is a fine old Italian-marble
BONCHURCH. 17
Vase, which formerly embellished the gardens
of the late Earl of Dysart, whose thatched
Cottage then stood where Steephill Castle now
lifts its embattled Tower.
The western Pathway from the tower de-
scends through a woody steep to the foot of
the Pulpit Rock, where is placed a sheltered
seat commanding a most lovely view of Bon-
church; the immense variety of luxuriant
evergreens and ivy rendering the prospect,
even in winter, ever verdant, giving it the
appearance of perpetual summer.
The eastern descent from the tower leads to
a most picturesque natural Archway, through
which a pathway has been constructed, which
enables persons to observe how the rocks
hurled from the solid cliff, have been arrested
in their downward course, so as to form this
singular specimen of Nature's masonry.
Near the grape-vines which are here trained
against the rock, may be noticed the fouf-foot
bed of freestone, (much prized for building
purposes,) whose outline is strongly marked
by deeply-indented adjacent ledges, resulting
18 BONCHURCH.
from the very soft nature of the intervening
strata, and the hard and unyielding character
of the beds of Rag, which lie above and below.
Higher up, the worn, weather-beaten, and far-
projecting crags of flinty strata, termed Shatter-
wit, forcibly arrest the attention of the beholder,
and contribute much, by their rugged masses, to
impart a romantic grandeur to the scene, remind-
ing us of the wild penciling of Salvator Rosa.
A romantic and delicious spring of the purest
crystal water gushes forth in the lower part of
Pulpit-Rock Grounds, falling into a small re-
servoir containing gold and silver fish.
Between the ivy-clumps situated on a level
with the House, we have a glimpse of the
Entrance Gates of Pulpit Rock, the piers of
which are surmounted by two finely moulded
Newfoundland Dogs, after Landseer's cele-
brated picture, entitled, " A Distinguished
Member of the Humane Society."*
* We have great pleasure in noticing, that access to these
grounds was immediately granted, on delivering our card to the
gardener.
BONCHURCH. 19
Looking towards the sea, beyond the luxu-
riantly-wooded grounds of Uppermount, the
villa of Samuel Dick, Esq., (whose fine Scotch
firs and diversified foliage overhang the Pond,)
we observe the handsome Italian Tower of
Mountfield, occupied by S. M. Saxby, Esq ,
whose Battery, with a flag-staff, is situated near
the sea. Here, on festive occasions, we have
frequently seen colours, of all hues and all
nations, gaily streaming in the air ; and hence,
at times, valuable information of arrivals, &c.
has been transmitted to the Admiralty and
Lloyd's.
The whole of " Beautiful Bonchurch" is com-
manded from this elevated point of view.
Beyond Rosemount, a delightful terrace of
houses extends to the eastward, situated below
the craggy, ivy-crowned cliff, amongst which
may be noticed Thorncliff, the residence of the
Rev. J. Fielden, and that of Henry Sewell, Esq. ;
then, two picturesque dwellings, called " Gothic
Houses;" and on the south side of the Terrace,
nearly opposite the Hotel, is the charming Cot-
20 BONCHURCH.
tage of Lady Hampson, called Cliff Den. In
a cleft of the cliff, is a flight of rude steps, hewn
in the rock, leading to the Down above — an
ascent rather too ruggedly formed to be commo-
dious. At the farther end of the range of houses,
is Ribbands' s Hotel, one of the very best con-
ducted in the Island, and most beautifully
situated. Below these appears the new Church,
(of wlfich a separate description is contained in
this volume,) its simple turret of a single bell
appearing amongst the trees to the greatest
advantage. Beyond the Church, to the south-
east, are the grounds of East Dene, the pro-
perty of Captain Swinburne, R.N. A little
further to the right, Undermount Rock,* sur-
mounted by a flag-staff, is discerned amongst the
clustered foliage in the grounds of H. Gould,
Esq., who at present is converting that part
of c* Bonchurch Ridge" into pleasure-walks,
* Undermount Rock. — It is strange that a recent author
should have been deceived as to this remarkable isolated rock,
who supposes that its strata indicate an inverted position. It is,
however, not difficult to show that such is decidedly a mistake.
From its section of what is called the Freestone Bed, every
quarryman will, at a glance, pronounce it to be in strict con-
formity to the position of the strata in the cliffs above.
BONCHURCH. 21
where, it is to be hoped, free access will be
allowed to the passing tourist, who may be
anxious to enjoy a cursory glance of this por-
tion of the enchanting neighbourhood. Further
on, towards the west, is Orchard Leigh, and
still further, are seen Woodlynch, the property
of the Rev. James White; Under-Rock Villa,
belonging to E. Peel, Esq. ; and Westfield, the
seat of George Curtis, Esq.; while, above the
whole of this beauteous landscape, with its
varied line of sea-coast, spreads the mighty
and expanded ocean, sweeping around the
lovely Panorama, nearly as far as Portsmouth,
on the Hampshire Coast,
Orchard Leigh.
This handsome residence, the property of
Dr. Leeson, is situated nearer to the sea,
in a most delightful spot, close upon the
ridge that forms the south side of the vale,
and stands amidst green knolls and undulating
mounds, whose rocky fragments are jutting
from them, and in some parts overhang the
winding paths. Here the fir, the maple, and
22 BONCHURCH.
the ash thrive in great luxuriance, while be-
tween their boughs appears the dark blue sea,
giving a beauteous contrast to the light-green
banks, partially adorned with flowers oi every
hue, and here —
The warblings of the nightingale
Tn sweetest notes resound,
" And glow-worms light, at summer's eve,
A thousand lamps around !"*
The Collection op Fossils at Mountfield,
Bonchurch.
We are much indebted to the kindness of Mr. Saxby and
his son, for a sight of their valuable collection of fossils,
decidedly the best we have ever seen. Perhaps this choice
collection is not surpassed by any in Europe, for the
variety of species from the upper and lower Greensand.
While in the British Museum we look in vain for Isle of
Wight fossils, and in other public collections we see
plaster casts of imperfect lower Greensand specimens ; at
Mountfield the geologist will find such fossils as the
Perna Mulleti, Scaphites Gigas, Scaphites Hillsii, &c. in
fine preservation and perfection. There is also a fine series
of yet unnamed Pteroceras, Rostellarias, enormous Crioce-
* This is literally true. On a summer's night the banks of
Orchard Leigh are often resplendent with the lustre of the
glow-worm's light, whilst the sweetly thrilling notes of the
nightingale are heard amongst the trees; and here the Bee-orchis
with various other scarce and interesting native plants are found
growing on the verdant slopes of the mound facing the sea.
BONCHURCH. 23
rases, &c. A magnificent Clathraria, fossil Lobster, and a
splendid series from the " Cracker Group ;" also a great
variety of very beautiful fossil leaves from Alum Bay, very
fine Astacoids, and the unique Nautilus Saxbii {Morris)
from the lower lobster-bed of the Greensand. Among
other rare specimens, we also here find some highly in*
teresting remains of fossil insects, fish, &c, from the Lias
and Wealden, presented by their talented and persevering
discoverer, whose Archoeoniscus Brodiei (named after
him) cannot fail to excite admiration in the lover of
natural history. Of this fossil here are specimens in
admirable preservation; and, indeed, the one, showing
the eye not larger than a small pin's head, exhibiting,
under the microscope, the minute lenses, as distinctly as
in a recent insect, may well excite astonishment.
Here is also the only specimen in England of the
" Rossia Owenii," a kind of Sepiola, which was taken on
the shore at Bonchurch, in the winter of 1848.
We may be excused in saying that Mountfield itself,
in its complete scholastic arrangements, as a specimen of
a gentleman's private boarding-school of the highest class,
is an object of interest.
From the path of the Battery at Mountfield a remarkably
fine view of the Bonchurch Crags is obtained, taking in
the whole extent of its cliff, with the Downs above.
While excavating and preparing the grounds of Mount-
field for the building of the House, some cinerary urns
were found, containing bones and ashes, indicating this
spot to have been a Roman Station.
The Venerable Archdeacon Hill possesses a scarce
Saxon coin, found between Bonchurch and Shanklin.
24 BONCHURCH.
BONCHURCH DOWN.
The Ascent near Ribbands's Hotel.
Hint to Visitors.
The genial softness of the air of this spot during the
winter months may tempt strangers to visit the High
Downs, in order to obtain an extended view over the
Island. To invalids, when the wind is northerly, this is
attended with some hazard. The glow attained by exer-
cise in the ascent, will often, on reaching the summit, be
suddenly checked by a keen northerly blast, and severe
colds are thus often caught by the inexperienced. The
ascent of the Downs from Bonchurch is not at any time
difficult, and when a rest upon the grassy slope is sug-
gested by fatigue, the lovely picture presented by Bon-
church below, its luxuriant foliage, its picturesque surface,
and its magnificent sea view, of more than a semicircle in
extent, together with the exhilarating sea breeze, which
almost constantly steals along the southern face of the
Downs, never fail to refresh the mind and invigorate the
body. For a more detailed account of this range of
Down, the reader is referred to our description of that of
St. Boniface, which follows the account of Ventnor.
Persons desirous of riding on the Downs, may do so by
an ascent at Ventnor, as also by a road leading from the
hill just above Shanklin.
BONCHURCH. 25
The New Church at Bonchurch.
While descending to the valley, by the steep declivity
called Bonchurch Shute, we observe on the right, the
New Church recently erected. The Old Church in this
vicinity, so famous and interesting from its antiquity, being
too small to accommodate the numerous families who
now make Bonchurch their place of resort in the summer
season, a very liberal subscription has been raised from
the inhabitants and others, for the purpose of building a
sacred edifice adapted to the increasing number of visitors
at this delightful spot.
It was built in 1848, from the designs of Mr. B. Ferrey,
architect, whose talent is at present engaged on the
handsome church of St. Stephen, Westminster, founded
an£ endowed by Miss Burdett Coutts.
It is remarkable for its neat and simple character, and
is covered with a roof of dark red tiling. It is designed
in the Norman style of the eleventh century, and con-
sists of a Nave, a Chancel, and one Transept. The main
walls are built of the rough stone of the locality, in range
work, the windows, doors, and other dressings being of
wrought freestone. A simple gable turret, somewhat
similar to that of St. Lawrence Undercliff, has been built
for the reception of a single bell.
The interior of the Church possesses an air of charming
simplicity, the fittings are remarkably neat, and the whole
reflects the greatest credit on the talented Architect, who
has displayed considerable skill in its effect and its adapta-
B
26 BONCHURCH.
tion to the situation it holds, so well chosen for a church
amidst luxuriant trees ; and where the mighty wall of the
Uppercliff is seen above, crowned by the range of lofty
swelling Downs.
The first stone was laid on the 24th of June, 1847, by
the late lamented and highly esteemed Rev. William
Adams, who died in the large white house, called Winter-
bourne, contiguous to the Old Church. It was conse-
crated on Monday, Dec. 11th, 1848, on which occasion
was received a handsome collection of £72.
On arriving at the bottom of the " Shute," (a term
applied in the Island to all steep and sudden descents of
the road,) and passing through a wicket on our left, the
tourist who may delight in ancient research, will be
pleased by a visit to the Old Church.
It is gratifying to every lover of antiquity to find that
no attempt has hitherto been made to mutilate or enlarge
this ancient structure. Let us hope the same good taste
may continue to prevail, and to preserve in its original
state this venerable memorial of " times gone by."
The Old Church at Bonchurch.
The venerable church at this place is highly interesting,
not only as a picturesque object, but also as a monument
of ancient times. It is situated not far from the Under-
mount Rock, at the deflection of the footpath that leads to
the Landslip at Eastend ; and is surrounded by fine old
trees, whose shadowy tints harmonize well with the sombre
hue of its antiquated walls. Though this ecclesiastical
BONCHURCH. 27
edifice is small, it comprises a nave, or body, and a chancel,
the former being surmounted by a square turret at the west
end, and having a south porch. To the roof of the turret
is fixed a stone cross ; another stands on the top of the
porch, and a third at the apex of the gabled wall between
the nave and chancel. Every part of this building dis-
plays marks of considerable antiquity; but the chancel
and porch are of a later date than the body of the church ;
for in the former are two windows with ogee-arched heads,
and the doorway has a pointed arch, while the tops of all
the windows of the nave are semi-circular. A glance
through a small window beneath the turret, at the west
end, affords an interesting view of the interior, with the
little plain altar, on which stands the sacred symbol of
the Christian faith, carved in black oak. It was brought
from one of the demolished churches in Normandy, and
was placed at Bonchurch about the year 1820.
While these sheets are in the press, a subject of great
interest to antiquarians is engaging the attention of the
Island. Mr. Saxby having obtained permission from the
Venerable Archdeacon Hill (whose love of the antique
will secure to the public the preservation of so interesting
a relic,) to search for certain " fresco" inscriptions, which
from casual conversation with a working mason, Mr.
Saxby suspected to exist under the plaster upon the walls
of this ancient Church ; the search has been most suc-
cessful, and several mural paintings in body colour, which
must have been hidden for many centuries by whitewash,
are now brought to light.
In this sequestered spot, near to the old elms that spread
B 2
28 BONCHURCH.
their branches in front of the churchyard, are deposited
the mortal remains of the late Rev. W. Adams, (son of
Mr. Serjeant Adams,) author of " The Shadow of the
Cross," and other religious tracts, which have most de-
servedly attracted general notice. On the tomb is placed
horizontally a stone cross, extending the whole length of
the grave, and around it, in the old English letter, is the
following inscription : —
Militant mams, J&.9L, late Uicar of %t. \$ttzx in tf)e
lEast, antr Jfalloto of Jftaton College, ®xfortt, fceceasetr
January 17$, 1848.
"patient in tribulation, continuing instant in ^rager."
The cross is elevated about six inches above the tomb,
so as to cast its shadow upon it, whilst a small willow is
spreading its pendent branches around it.
The Rev. William Adams died at Bonchurch, in his
thirty-third year. He was educated at Eton and Oxford,
where, as well as his elder brother, he obtained the highest
honours of the University, having taken a double first-
class degree. His tracts evince the pure and earnest piety
of his mind, blended with sentiments of the most Christian
feeling towards his fellow-men. He was cut off in the
midst of a career of usefulness, by pulmonary consump-
tion, arising from a neglected cold.
The following lines were suggested on a visit to his
tomb : —
&
Ma
id
* I'
BONCHURCH. 29
Weep, pendent willow, ever weep,
Upon this consecrated ground —
The grave of him who waits in sleep
Till the archangel's trumpet sound. —
A Pilgrim of the " Cross," sincere,
Who traced its peaceful " Shadow" here.
Near to the Old Church, and facing the meadow that leads
to the Landslip, delightfully situated amidst sheltering
trees, and opposite the sea, is the gothic mansion called
East Dene, the property of Captain Swinburne, R.N. It
was built for Mr. Surnam from a design by Mr. Beazly,
architect, and was afterwards the seat of Mr. Cartwright.
It is embellished with handsome antique furniture, chiefly
in the character of the Elizabethan age, procured at a vast
expense ; each article possessing considerable historic in-
terest, as for instance, the bedsteads of Sir Walter Raleigh,
and that of King John, and an organ of very ancient date,
said to have been used by Queen Elizabeth. The fittings
are also in a corresponding taste, and of the most unique
character.
On returning from the Old Church to the Valley, we
pass on our right the Lodge Entrance to Uppermount, the
seat of Mr. Dick, and on our left, is the remarkable crag,
called Undermount Rock, already described in these
pages.
Proceeding along the road towards Ventnor, we soon
arrive at
The Pond.
A beautiful pool of water situated at the foot of the
hill, that, like a brilliant mirror, reflects from its surface
30 BONCHURCH.
every surrounding object. It belongs to the villa of Up-
permount, and was originally an osier-bed. This great
ornament to the village exhibits another of the improve-
ments made by Mr. Hadfield. The road on its side, over-
arched by stately elms, has a very striking and picturesque
effect ; while, on the opposite side of the water, rises the
hill, richly clothed with verdure. Here the light-blue
pine, the darkly tinted fir, the feathery larch, and the
broad-leafed sycamore, are contrasted in the most beautiful
variety, and backed by a quickly- rising, hanging wood ;
while the whole scene is reflected by the pellucid lake,
displaying an inverted landscape, whilst a pair of snow-
white swans and other aquatic birds are seen gently
skimming its glassy surface. The pond during the last
fifty years has not been frozen over more than six
times of sufficient strength to bear the weight of a
man— another proof of the superior mildness of this
favoured spot. As we proceed towards Ventnor, along
the embowered road on the margin of the Pond, a beautiful
peep of the new Waterfall presents itself between the
trees, which seem to form a distant verdant arch, beneath
which the cascade is seen to play its waters over the rocky
ledges of the slope. The Pond belongs to Uppermount,
and is 180 yards in length, the whole of the water flowing
from it, passes through some subterraneous channel be-
neath the high ridge on the southern side of the village,
makes its appearance again by the Old Church, whence
a gurgling rivulet conducts it to the sea-cliff, over which
it tumbles, forming a highly pleasing waterfall.
A road opposite the Pond leads, by an easy descent, to
BONCHURCH. 31
the sea, passing Orchard Leigh, belonging to Dr. Leeson ;
Westfield, the large marine residence of G. Curtis, Esq. ;
and Mountfield, the residence of S. M. Saxby, Esq. ; to
Horseshoe Bay, where a delightful stroll may be enjoyed
upon the shore, at any time of the tide, beneath the pic-
turesque and rugged sea-cliffs; a delightful promenade
being in course of construction, which leads from Horseshoe
Bay to the Waterfall on the Beach. Persons who only
remember this shore as being nearly impassable from
rocks, and inaccessible at high water, will be agreeably
surprised at the great improvement which has lately been
accomplished by the enterprise of the village builder, Mr.
Joliffe.
In addition to the former sandy bathing place, another
clearance since the winter has been made by him, espe-
cially for the accommodation of Ladies, who may bathe
here with the utmost possible privacy.
A footpath also leads above the cliffs on the east, to-
wards the Landslip, and on the west as far as Yentnor.
Having surveyed the picturesque shore of Bonchurch,
we return to the village, and pursue our course along it,
and then taking the road on the right, leading towards
Ventnor, we soon observe the delightful retreat called
St. Boniface House.
Distinguished by a handsome lawn in front, and em-
bosomed in trees, this Cottage Residence attracts the
notice of every one who passes it. The House is com-
pletely sheltered from the northerly winds, by the Down
32 BONCHURCH.
of St. Boniface, which rises immediately behind it. It
was embellished by the late Colonel Hill, who displayed
great taste and incurred considerable expense in the laying
out of the grounds. This pleasant dwelling was formerly
one of the chief attractions in the vicinity of Bonchurch,
since which time, new roads have been formed in front,
which have considerably tended to lessen the rural cha-
racter it then possessed. It has been built upwards of
half a century, and still maintains that charm of exquisite
simplicity so well suited to the character of a Cottage
Ornee. It is the property of Major Popham Hill. Con-
tiguous to it, (where a private road winds beside the
lawn,) commence the handsome and extensive grounds
appertaining to Pulpit Rock.
We shall now conduct our readers to Shanklin, which,
although of a totally different character to that of Bon-
church, possesses charms entirely its own — vast undulating
fields of cultivated land — umbrageous foliage studded with
white villas, and a magnificent prospect of the blue waters
sweeping around the curving Bay of Sandown, whilst in
the distance are seen the bright Culver Cliffs shining like
pearl upon the sapphire's hue.
It is to be hoped the following Poem will not be re-
garded as giving a too florid description of its lovely
and interesting Chine.
A SUMMER'S DAY AT SHANKLIN.
b3
The following Stanzas, comprising " A Summer's
Day at Shanklin," are respectfully submitted to the
reader, as presenting a more pictorial illustration
than can be well expressed in prose. Fidelity of
description has been strictly adhered to, interspersed
with a few artistic hints. The incidents introduced
have been witnessed by the writer during his frequent
visits to the Island.
A SUMMER'S DAY AT SHANKLIN,
Away, away, how blithe the day,
How splendidly things shine !
Away, away, with hearts so gay,
We'll off to Shanklin Chine !
From lovely Ryde along we go,
'Twixt hedge-rows, elms, and pines,
Till Brading's Haven, seen below,
Bright as a mirror shines !
And now a streak of heav'nly blue,
Far spread beyond the lea,
Brilliant as sapphire in its hue,
Denotes the boundless sea !
36 a summer's day at shanklin.
And Sandown's beauteous curving Bay
Its crescent form expands,
. Where Culver's tow'ring cliffs display
Their heights beyond the sands.
In native grandeur rising high,
Array'd in purest white,
'Midst azure tints of sea and sky,
Magnificently bright !
And O ! how joyously and gay
From yonder field of corn,
Springs forth the lark with thrilling lay
To greet the summer's Morn !
But now a gloom involves the skies
In hue of threat'ning red —
Dark clouds of fearful form arise,
And o'er the ocean spread —
While ships at sea — the homeward bound,
All haste to " take in sail,"
A distant moan — a wailing sound
Forebodes the coming gale !
a summer's day at shanklin. 37
The Culver Cliffs, that shone so gay,
Are all enwrapp'd in gloom —
As when fond hopes are torn away,
The cypress shades the tomb !
The whirlwind now, with direful sweep,
O'er ocean holds its course,
Where foams the surge — the mighty deep
In anger feels its force.
The surf drives on the sea-beat shore,
And whitens all the strand,
Whilst murky shadow widens o'er
The hills and distant land.
Terrific is the tempest's sway,
And fierce the wind's wild howl ;
The stormy clouds that shroud the Bay
In deepest darkness scowl,
When bursting forth, a vivid flash
Strikes terror to the soul —
And with a dread and mighty crash,
Loud pealing thunders roll !
38 a summer's day at shanklin.
And now the wind's infuriate power
Beats down the pelting rain,
A dense and overwhelming shower
Falls, deluging the plain ! —
Subdued at length, the storm gives way,
In thunder-clouds it flies ;
Triumphant is the orb of day,
And splendour fills the skies !
And, see ! transcendent in its glow,
To gladden and to cheer,
Heaven's glorious sign to earth below —
What beauteous tints appear !
The fields are all in em'rald green,
The warbling notes in tune,
Refulgent sunbeams crown the scene —
The scene of summer's Noon.
Again a clear cerulean hue
Is o'er the ocean spread,
Whilst Dunnose, rising into view,
Lifts up his giant head !
A summer's day at shanklin. 39
Sweet Shanklin now, delightful spot,
Where branching elms embower
The villa and the rural cot,
And jasmine spreads its flower.
Thy sacred Pile, of olden style,
Might well our steps delay;
But now the magnet of the Isle
Attracts us hence, away
To that famed dell, where ev'ry grot
Presents unfading grace —
Where beauty's choice Forget-me-not
Adorns her fav'rite place.
Approaching close upon the Chine,
All hail, thou Old Oak Tree !
In friendship, true to life's decline,
The ivy claspeth thee !
Ere we descend the Chine's steep side,
Observe upon the shore,
The giant cliffs that stem the tide,
With level lines traced o'er.
40 a summer's day at shanklin.
In dusky hue, ranged tier on tier,
Huge sand-stone masses lie,
Whilst proudly hence their forms appear,
Vast, picturesque, and high !
Now pass we by the rude thatch'd Cot,
Where strangers seek the Key,
'Midst fishing-gear and lobster-pot,
Spread round the Old Oak Tree.
There little Kitty joins in prate,
The hen clucks on the floor,
While youngsters, clatt'ring, throng the gate,
The magpie chats the more.
Down the steep Chasm, yon rustic bridge,
Above the current's flow,
Conducts us to the pathway ridge
That threads the Chine below.
The tide receding from the shore —
A shore of shining sand,
Shows boat and grapnel, mast and oar,
Reflected on the strand,
a summer's day at shanklin. 41
While distant sails in glowing light
Are glitt'ring on the view,
Like orient pearls of purest white,
Set on " the waters blue."
How striking is this bold ravine
To startle and to please —
Here, frowning rocks of sullen mien,
There, steeps o'erspread with trees,
And whilst the cliffs we wend along —
Cliffs sterile and severe,
See ! where below, the slopes among,
Exub'rant wild flowers peer,
All blooming in their simple dye,
Diffusing sweets so free —
Their fragrance to the butterfly,
Their honey to the bee.
Now Ev'ning spreads its richest light
In all its golden glow,
On rock and tree, and tufted height,
While blue mists rise below,
42 A summer's day at shanklin.
And yonder lovely Cottage scene,
Where clust'ring roses twine
Around the casements seen between
The myrtle and the vine.*
A rustic Villa crowns the dell,
With ivy-mantled Tower —
There contemplation loves to dwell,
And muse on life's brief hour.
The steepy cliffs we wind around,
The Cascade to survey,
Whilst echoing rocks respond its sound,
Like thunder far away.
'Midst pendent trees the waters gush,
Augmented by the shower;
Over the moss-grown rocks they rush
With concentrated power,
And then meand'ring as they go
To mingle with the sea,
Like human life in varied flow,
To meet Eternity.
* Honey-moon Cottage.
A SUMMERS day at shanklin. 43
When by the moon's soft silv'ry beam
Is seen the bright Cascade,
It glitters like a fairy stream
O'er rocks involved in shade,
Whilst trees that overhang the dell,
Strange mystic shadows throw,
Enchantment seems to cast a spell
On all we see below,
To charm, to yield delight, and breathe
Of purity and love,
The very rocks that lie beneath —
The hanging shrubs above,
To give an earnest of that state
Most pleasing to the soul,
Where pride's vain pomp confers no weight,
Nor riches hold control —
Where sublunary cares and woes,
And pining sorrows cease,
And Heaven, all merciful ! bestows
It's never-ending peace.
44 a summer's day at shanklin.
Returning from th' embower' d retreat
Beside the moon-lit vale,
What sounds melodious — warbling sweet,
Hark ! 'tis the nightingale !
And lo ! the silent heavens — the glow
Of countless stars, that shine
Through boundless space, in endless flow
Of Harmony Divine !
Now balmy Night invites to rest,
To home we bend our way,
Till lovely morn on ocean's breast
Dart forth its golden ray,
Then, while the lustre of the sky
Lights up the hills and plains,
We'll stray to where yon fragments lie,
And desolation reigns !
For there 'tis said, strange forms abound,
And ivy- wreaths bedeck
The giant brows that scowl around
The Landslip's mighty wreck !*
W. B. C.
* See Poem on the Landslip — page 68.
45
SHANKLIN.
A rural beauty, modestly attir'd.
There are many views of great beauty in the
Isle of Wight, and among them are the
sylvan and rural scenes of Shanklin and its
vicinity. The village itself is delightfully
situated, the little, antique Church, emblematic
of quiet and repose, the pleasant cottages em-
bowered in shady groves, with the noble pros-
pect of the sea, whose blue waters bathe the
foot of the mighty promontory of Dunnose,form
a strikingly romantic picture; but these are only
accessories to the grand feature of the land-
scape, the curious Chine, one among several
such objects occurring on the coast of this
island, but decidedly the most beautiful and
magnificent, while that of Blackgang is the
most distinguished for gloomy grandeur and
sublimity.
Shanklin is situated on the south-eastern
coast of the island, within three miles of the
46 SHANKLIN.
commencement of the Undercliff, exhibiting,
in a striking point of view, the most prominent
peculiarities of its wonderful scenery. Its
vicinity to several highly attractive objects,
natural and artificial, renders this village a
most convenient spot, whence visitors may
make excursions in search of gratification from
the survey of the beauties and sublimities of
nature and art, situated in its immediate
neighbourhood.
" As we approach the village of Shanklin,"
says Sir Henry Englefield, " its appearance is
equally singular and interesting. It is seated
in a small vale, hanging towards the sea,
though at a great distance above that level :
the houses are detached from each other, and
almost buried in groves of the most luxuriant
and flourishing elms; and nearly every cottage,
being commonly let out by its occupant in
lodgings, during the summer season, is sur-
rounded by a neat garden, full of flowering
shrubs ; the whole spot presenting a most
cheerful and uncommon character. The little
Church, which is of a pretty form, stands
SHANKLIN. 47
on a broken knoll, open to a beautiful pas-
ture, with groups of elms carelessly dis-
posed about it, and it is backed by the high
hill of Dunnose, whose lower parts are covered
with thickets or open groves hanging down its
steep sides. From among these, in one part,
a range of rocks starts out from the face of the
same great stratum to which the Undercliff
owes its existence and beauty. Although these
rocks are too much broken by perpendicular
fissures, so as to interrupt their general mas-
siveness, yet still they have a great degree of
beauty, and form a bold and fine feature in the
landscape."
The village of Shanklin has of late been
much oftener visited by tourists and travellers
than heretofore, and has become a more fre-
quent place of resort for invalids than formerly:
hence several new buildings have been erected
for the accommodation of strangers.
Within a few years past, a range of lodging-
houses, with gardens attached, has been erected
on the beach, pleasantly situated under the
cliffs, and protected from the overflowing tides
48 SHANKLIN.
by a substantial sea-wall. Here are bathing-
houses and every facility afforded for the
healthful exercise of sea-bathing. The sands
are extensive, and the view from them com-
mands the whole semicircular sweep of San-
down Bay, terminating on the east with the
white Culver Cliffs rising magnificently above
the level sands, while westward of the Chine
arises a range of perpendicular sand-cliff, ex-
hibiting its huge strata in horizontal lines, and
imposing a character of gloomy and awful
sublimity on this portion of the shore. A
walk along the beach, at low water, beneath
these towering cliffs, as far as Luccombe, is
worthy the attention of every visitor. Inquiry,
however, as to the state of the tide, ought pre-
viously to be made, so as to ensure a safe
passage beyond the distant, rocky point seen
from the sands at Shanklin, projecting towards
the sea.
There is one feature contributing to enhance
the ornamental character of the domestic build-
ings, which, though by no means peculiar to
Shanklin, well deserves to be noticed here.
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SHANKLIN. 49
This is the profusion of flowers, flowering
shrubs, and odoriferous plants with which
almost every inhabited spot in the island is
embellished. The most humble of the cottages
in the Isle of Wight are adorned with roses,
jasmines, and honeysuckles; and often large
myrtles, which, on its southern coast, bear the
winter out of doors. They have vines every-
where about the houses, and often fig-trees,
whose luxuriant foliage overhangs the entrance
of the cot, or forms an agreeable shade to the
garden alcove.
The manor or lordship of Shanklin is men-
tioned in the Domesday Book, under the ap-
pellation of Sencliz, whence the modern name
must have originated. From the same record,
we learn that soon after, if not before, the Nor-
man conquest, there was a church at this place.
But, according to Sir Richard Worsley, it was
only a chapel-of-ease dependent on the rec-
torial establishment of Bonchurch. The parish,
however, appears to have anciently been a part
of Brading ; and there, it seems, the inhabitants
c
50 SHANKLIN.
still bury their dead ; and an annual pension of
ten shillings is payable from this chapelry to
the Rector of Brading, as an acknowledgment
of ecclesiastical superiority. The chapel is said
to have been built, or rather rebuilt, by one of
the family of De l'lsle, who were lords of the
Isle of Wight in the thirteenth century; and
by this benefactor it was endowed wTith fifty
acres of land, together with the tithes of many
of the tenants of the manor. As to parochial
assessments for civil affairs, Shanklin is consi-
dered as a separate parish. The old manor-
house, reduced to the rank of a farm-house, is
situated near the church.
In the carriage-road leading from Shanklin
to Bonchurch, the road winds across the steep
ascent impending over the promontory of Dun-
nose, but still seems only to skirt the foot
of the mountainous heights of Wroxall and
Shanklin Downs. On gaining the ascent above
Luccombe, a surprising scene, of vast extent
and beauty, is displayed. Hence appears the
deep expanse of shore, from Dunnose to the
extremity of the white Culver Cliffs, with a
SHANKLIN. 51
boundless prospect of the sea in front. The
whole sweep of the beauteous curve of Sandown
Bay is seen, its golden sands laved by " the
waters blue;" and in the distance beyond it,
the shores of Sussex are sometimes visible,
nearly as far as Beachy Head. The distant
heights of Hampshire and Portsdown Hill ap-
pear over the bay, to the north, between Bern-
bridge and Brading Down, whilst the ridge of
Downs stretches across the island, as far as the
eye can reach.
The top of Shanklin Down, according to the
Ordnance survey, is seven hundred and ninety-
two feet above the level of the sea. From the
loftiest part of this eminence, a most extensive
and truly magnificent prospect may be obtained,
on a clear day, including, at least, one half of
the island, and even stretching beyond it across
the English Channel, and taking in the Solent,
and a wide expanse of the southern coast of
Britain.
But the grand attraction of Shanklin is the
Chine, visited annually by multitudes, by whom
c 2
52 SHANKLIN.
it is deservedly regarded as a singularly beau-
tiful and curious specimen of the peculiar coast
scenery of this island. It is alike interesting
to the geologist and to the admirer of the pic-
turesque; for here the former may study, with
advantage, the structure and arrangement of
the rocks and rocky strata which constitute the
basis of this sea-girt country, whilst the latter
may trace the remarkable features of scenery,
unrivalled for variety and beauty.
The Chines, as they are provincially termed,
are breaks or openings towards the sea, in the
rocky barrier by which a considerable portion
of the southern shores of this island are de-
fended. " The term, Chine" says Sir Richard
Worsley, "is applied to the backbone of an
animal, both in the manege and in culinary
language, which forms the highest ridge of the
body. Echine, in the French, is used in the
same sense ; andBoyer has the word chinfreneau,
for a great cut or slash. Hence the word ' chine'
might be thought peculiarly expressive of a
high ridge of land, cleft abruptly down; and
SHANKLIN. 53
the several parts of the southern coast denomi-
nated ' chines,' all correspond with this descrip-
tion." All the chines have the accompaniment
of small streams running through them, from
the summits of the cliffs down to the shore.
Hence it may be inferred, that they are caused,
at least in part, by the operation of land-springs,
which, in the course of ages, have loosened and
partially washed away the sub- stratum of the
more solid rock-work, and occasioned it to sub-
side at certain points, and thus form irregular
fissures, or gaps, now traversed by the streams
which have apparently contributed to their
production.
At a considerable height from the shore,
stands the village of Shanklin, and above it>
several springs from the lofty range of Wrox-
all and Shanklin Downs, unite to form a rapid
current, which, taking its devious course through
the softer parts of the soil, amidst towering
trees and underwood, has given to this chine
the winding form, to which much of the interest
and beauty of the scene must be attributed.
54 SHANKLIN.
The rivulet becomes gradually deepened till it
reaches the village, after which it assumes a
more formidable aspect, rapidly increasing till
it reaches the Head of the Chine, where it
falls over a rocky ledge which forms the Cas-
cade, a perpendicular descent of thirty feet,
after which, having traversed the chasm in a ser-
pentine direction, between the steep slopes of
underwood, for about a quarter of a mile, it takes
its course across the sandy beach to the sea.
The cliff at this point is about two hundred and
fifty feet in height, and the chasm is not less
than three hundred feet in width from one
summit to the other. The dimensions of the
Mouth of this Chine have, however, been va-
riously stated by different observers, but the
preceding statements appear to be most correct.
The view from the beach below the Chine
presents to the beholder a winding ravine, ex-
tending inland, the rocky sides of which, in
some places, exhibit the bare cliffs towering in
all their native grandeur ; in others, the surface
is richly clothed with branching trees and un-
SHANKLIN. 55
derwood, ferns and lichens, and herbs and wild
flowers of several kinds. In the foreground of
the picture is a newly-built Bathing-house, oc-
cupying the site of a fisherman's cottage which
lately stood there, and which so frequently
afforded a very pleasing and picturesque object
for the sketch-book. Higher up, charmingly
situated on a ledge in the ravine, is Chine Cot-
tage, a lodging-house, adorned with various
flowering shrubs, which render it so attractive
to visitors. This pleasing retreat is distin-
guished at Shanklin by the cognomen of Honey-
moon Cottage.
Above it, is seen the well-known venerable
"Old Oak Tree," whose wide-spreading branches
are clad by the most luxuriant ivy, and are
overshadowing the thatched roof of the public-
house called Chine Inn, and its excavated
skittle-ground. Here strangers apply for the
key of the wicket leading to the interior of the
Chine and the Cascade.
Looking up the chasm from the sea-beach,
the picturesque villa of J. C. Cameron, Esq.,
56 SHANKLIN.
called Tower Cottage, appears on the height,
partially covered with ivy, presenting a highly
ornamental and prominent object in the back-
ground of the view.
After extending, for some distance, in a
direct line from the beach, the Chine takes an
abrupt turn to the left, and becomes much
narrower; its sides are then almost perpen-
dicular, and but little foliage, or vegetation of
any kind, occurs to clothe the surface of its
sandy rocks. The chasm continues winding
in the ascent, and diminishing in breadth, till
at length it terminates in a very narrow fissure,
from which the stream already mentioned
abruptly descends as a cascade. The quantity
of water in this rivulet is generally inconsider-
able in dry weather, although a constant flow
takes place, but after heavy showers of rain, or
sudden thaws succeeding thick falls of snow,
the usually quiet mountain-stream becomes an
impetuous torrent.
The following are the interesting remarks of
the late Rev. Legh Richmond : — u On tracing
SHANKLIN. 57
upwards the course of Shanklin Chine, the
scene exhibits a mixture of the grand and
beautiful not often exceeded. I walked up by
a steep pathway that winded through the trees
and shrubs on the side of one of the precipices.
At every step, the extent of the prospect en-
larged and acquired a new and varied cha-
racter, by being seen through the trees on each
side. Climbing up a kind of rude, inartificial
set of stone stairs in the bank, I passed by the
singularly situated cottages which I had viewed
from beneath, and arrived at the top of the
precipice. From this point the abyss, occa-
sioned by the great fissure in the cliff, appeared
grand and interesting. Trees hung over it on
each side, projecting not only their branches,
but many of their roots, in wild and fantastic
forms. Masses of earth had recently fallen
from the upper to the lower part of the pre-
cipice, carrying trees and plants down the
steep descent. The character of the soil, and
the increasing influence of the stream at bottom,
seemed to threaten further slips of land from
c 3
58 SHANKLIN.
the summit. From hence the gentle murmur
of the cascade at the head of the Chine stole
upon the ear without much interruption to the
quietness of the scene. Every object com-
bined to please the eye, and direct the traveller's
heart to admire and love the Author and Creator
of all that is beautiful to the sense, and edifying
to the soul."*
The Parsonage at Shanklin is situated
near Williams's hotel, on the road leading to
the church, and presents the style of a beautiful
cottage ornee, picturesquely thatched and em-
bellished with a profusion of creeping plants
and flowers. In these grounds are flourishing
the most luxuriant myrtles, breathing their
delicious fragrance in the open air, and the
whole is surrounded by magnificent trees.
A respectable Circulating Library, combined
with the Bookselling business, established by
Mr. Johnson, contributes much to the pleasure
and amusement of visitors. It presents a very
picturesque appearance, in the cottage style,
* Story of the Young Cottager.
SHANKLIN. 59
and is situated in the centre of the village,
near the Chine, opposite to Williams's hotel.
Here is constantly on view a choice collection
of Isle of Wight pebbles and British and
foreign shells for sale.
There are two handsome hotels at Shanklin,
that of Daish's, at the entrance of the village
from Ryde, and Williams's, (now conducted by
Mr. Hale.) The Crab, a small inn, affords,
also, very comfortable accommodation.
In the neighbourhood of Shanklin, there is a
most delightfully-sequestered situation, called
by the islanders, North America. At a short
distance from Daish's Hotel, as you proceed in
the direction of the village of Lake, will be
found a thoroughfare, between some newly-
erected houses on the left of the road, leading
to the meadows, where a path presents itself,
inclining to the right ; from this path you de-
scend into the valley, and at length arrive, by
another track, at a large farming establishment,
through the grounds of which you pass on, still
bearing a little to the right, till you come to a
60 SHANKLIN.
cottage, in a very dilapidated condition, on the
left. Passing this cottage, you proceed in a
straight line through a rugged field, or uncul-
tivated space, till you enter the situation in
question. This beautiful and lovely spot is
not mentioned in any of the numerous Guide
Books, and seems to be almost as little known
to the great body of tourists and visitors, as to
those intelligent persons, who undertake to ex-
hibit the " Lions of the Garden of England."
Amongst the various beauties of the island,
this spot, as well as its continuation, extend-
ing over the grounds beneath Shanklin Down
and Cook's Castle and leading to the Wood
above Appuldurcombe House, is as much en-
titled to honourable mention as any of the
localities so enthusiastically described by those
who take ample credit to themselves for "pic-
turing" (as they state) all that is deserving of
particular notice in the Isle of Wight.
To Shauklin's charms, its rural cot,
Its Mountain-Down and Dell,
Though mem'ry oft may trace the spot,
One grieves to bid farewell !
61
A WALK FROM SHANKLIN TO THE
LANDSLIP AT EAST END.
Now rosy morn invites to stray,
" Over the hills and far away."
One of the most interesting walks in this
charming vicinity, is the tour to the Landslip
at East End, which is only a mile and a half
from Shanklin, and nearly adjoins Bonchurch.
On leaving Shanklin, a little beyond Wil-
liams's Hotel, a turning on the left leads over
a small bridge, across the running brook which
supplies the Waterfall of the Chine. Proceed-
ing beside an extensive pasture field, we gra-
dually ascend from the Vale of Shanklin.
Here we are often induced to cast a glance
at the village below us, embosomed in trees,
and studded with white villas, glistening in
the morning's sun. The rugged ridges of the
tufted cliffs, forming a singular border along
the line of coast that stretches towards San-
down ; where the white Culver Cliffs, in bril-
62 A WALK FROM SHANKLIN
liant light, are seen towering above the distant
point of the Bay, whose blue waters form a
beauteous and graceful curve within the margin
of its golden sands.
The distant downs of Ashey and Brading,
with that of Bembridge, which is situated above
the Culver Cliffs, appear to be veiled in the
morning's mist, w7hile in the opposite direction,
and nearer to us, is seen Shanklin Down,
rising in dark and stately grandeur, its shadowy
height intercepting for the present our view
towards the interior of the Island.
" With plodding steps the ploughman goes,
And turns the stubborn soil —
The field overspread with furrows shows
The drudgery and toil !"
After passing these rich and fertile fields, on
crossing a stile, we are suddenly surprised by
an immediate change of scene — a change from
the beauties of cultivation to those of a more
sublime character, displaying in part, the wild
and varied features of the Back of the Island.
In the foreground of the view, numerous
TO THE LANDSLIP. 63
grassy mounds are seen sloping towards the
sea-cliffs, whilst in the middle distance appears
the deep and rugged ravine of Luccombe
Chine, its fishing huts picturesquely situated
beneath its dark, dun-coloured cliffs, whilst
the interior of the Chine is richly clothed with
foliage, that partially obscures its precipitous
waterfall. An embattled Tower is seen above
the Chine, forming a "look-out," or prospect
station to Luccombe Chine Cottage, belonging
to J. C. Cooper, Esq., whose ornamental
grounds occupy a considerable portion of the
slope of the Chine. The Villa above, seen
from hence, and backed by the trees of East-
End- Wood, is Rose Cliff, the seat of E. M.
Frere, Esq.
The Landslip is not visible from this point
of view, it being screened by the wood that lies
before us, and through which wre are about to
pass.
Descending the sloping grounds of Luccombe
by a beaten track, we pass the gate of Luc-
combe Chine Cottage, and through an enclosed
64 A WALK FROM SHANKLIN
field, we enter the wood at East End, which
leads immediately to the Landslip. Its devious
path, winding through the thicket of small
branching trees and brushwood, where —
" Huge fragments jutting forth, display
Their crowns of evergreen."
One of these fallen rocks, in the midst of the
wood, is aptly converted into a seat for the
accommodation of pedestrians, and here silence
and solitude seem to fix their reign. Proceed-
ing a little further, the scene suddenly opens,
and the stranger is at once struck with the
stupendous devastation spread around. A
portion of the mighty rocks that have slipped
from their bases appears leaning in towering
grandeur, against the parent cliffs that still
maintain their station, above the chaos below
them, resembling an extended line of fortifi-
cation, from whose yawning clefts protrude
large trees, whilst among the detached heaps,
huge roots of holly, ivy, and other evergreens
are entangled and interspersed, presenting a
TO THE LANDSLIP. 65
fine contrast to the gray and hoary tinge of
the vast rocky fragments with which the scene
abounds. Wild flowers of various hues have
sprung up amidst the verdure, peering in their
native beauty amongst the ferns of this romantic
tract.
Not a trace of human habitation is here to be
descried, scarce a track, but of the cattle that
graze the waste, or of stragglers from the
sheep-walks that have made their way from
the downs above. The hawk, the wild pigeon,
and the lapwing, the inmates of the cliff, ap-
pear to be the rightful occupiers of the spot,
or share it with the crow and chough, who
frequent these scattered heaps, and feast upon
the carcasses of luckless sheep and cattle that
often fall over the rugged precipices of this
desolate region and are dashed upon the rocks
beneath.
The greater portion of the Landslips must
have occurred at least 1500 years ago, and any
further alteration in the ground between Bon-
church and Niton is prevented by the immense
66 A WALK FROM SHANKLIN
masses of chalk and rock which have been hurled
over in gigantic confusion towards the sea, now
forming a complete barrier against any further
working out of what is termed blue slipper, a
very soft stratum, full of springs, which gra-
dually undermining the upper green sand- stone,
(whose strata are about a hundred feet in depth,)
has occasioned the mighty disruption of the
cliffs, and at various periods has produced a
succession of luxuriant and most romantic
terraces, forming the present extraordinary
region, the Undercliff.
In a quarry belonging to Mr. Page, situated
at the western extremity of Ventnor, a skeleton
of a female was discovered a short time since,
which from an armlet, now in the possession
of S. M. Saxby, Esq., of Mountfield, Bon-
church, evidently belonged to the Romano-
British period, and seems to have been depo-
sited there in consequence of the lady having
been buried by the sudden convulsion of the
rocks.
The whole ground of the Undercliff between
TO THE LANDSLIP. 67
Bonchurch and Niton, a distance of about six
and a half miles, seems destined to maintain
its present position till " the great globe
itself" shall pass away, while the eastern and
western extremities are still undergoing, on a
smaller scale, the undermining process. At
its eastern end, the surface of a field, opposite
to East Dene, the seat of Captain Swinburne,
has been recently considerably diminished from
this cause, in 1848. The land between the sea-
cliff and the pathway has been entirely swept
away, and may be now seen in confused
masses lying on the beach.
All the Undercliff seems formerly to have
been tenanted by numerous herds of red deer,
whose large antlers are continually being dug
up in its vicinity.
The immense mass of ruin scattered at East
End, is the result of two Landslips — one of
them in 1810, of thirty acres ; the other in 1818,
of fifty acres.
68
THE LANDSLIP AT EAST END.
From Shanldin, over cultured land,
Along the fields we go,
The village lies serenely bland,
Embower'd by trees below.
How softly breathes the mild sea-air,
The warbling notes, how blithe !
And cheerful is the sound from where
" The mower whets his scythe !"
The Culver Cliffs, in dazzling white
Appear the Bay to crown,
The hills are all in hazy light,
And sombre Shanklin Down.
While beauteously the fields of corn
In golden waves display
The freshness of the breeze of morn
That ushers in the day !
THE LANDSLIP AT EAST END. 69
And now the lands of tillage pass'd,
Behold how wild the scene
Unfolds to view in pristine cast,
The Isle's unaltered mien !
Where spreads the landscape far and wide
On undulating ground —
Where Luccombe overlooks the tide,
And murky cliffs abound
With sloping mounds, and rising Downs,
Hill, woodland, vale, and lea —
Where Dunnose in stern grandeur frowns,
And lo ! " the wide, wide sea !"
A beaten track we wend along,
Above the hollow Chine,
While rude thatch'd huts are seen among
Boat, capstan, net, and line,
And scatter' d rocks, all darken' d o'er,
Stain'd by the sea-weed's dye,
Where the poor fisher wades the shore,
His prawning net to ply.
70 THE LANDSLIP AT EAST END.
And see ! yon steep and tow'ring Downs
A noble curve display,
That sweeps around the dell it crowns
In shadowy array.
And now a wood we traverse — lone —
All solitary — still,
Save where is heard in sweetest tone,
The casual streamlet's rill,
Whilst overarch'd by branch and spray,
Its devious path we wend —
Lo ! sudden ruin and dismay
On ev'ry side extend !
Rocks crush' d by rocks — a direful wreck
Spreads all the waste around !
What earthly power could stem or check
Its force — its progress bound ?
Dunnose, beneath thy headland brow,
Proud cliffs that once stood high,
Now, as by Earthquake's overthrow,
In scatter'd fragments lie !
THE LANDSLIP AT EAST END. 71
The cliffs that still maintain their ground,
Like frowning ramparts show,
Or castellated forts around,
To thwart the daring foe.
The peasants of the island tell,
Of deep and thund'ring roar,
When this stupendous barrier fell
All headlong on the shore ;
Of waves' recoil, and their rebound
Against the cliff's huge brow,
That roll'd its giant bulk, and found
The foaming surge below7 !
Yet midst this wild chaotic scene,
Of aspect stern and bold,
Hath Nature blent her richest green,
With gems of blue and gold. —
A piercing cry now rends the air,
Above the rocks so gray —
See ! the fierce hawk is soaring there,
To pounce upon his prey !
72 THE LANDSLIP AT EAST END.
Whilst round and round he wheels his course,
Still screaming as he flies —
Now downward with resistless force
He darts, — his victim dies !
Each trembling limb with wild delight
He tears with savage joy,
Impatient to renew his flight
Still further to destroy.
And hark ! amidst the solitude,
The humming of the bee,
The gull's wild shriek, so harsh and rude,
While plaintive moans the sea !
A gath'ring gloom pervades the sky,
And overcasts the whole —
The birds to clefted ledges fly,
And distant thunders roll !
East End, thy fall'n heights convey
An emblem sad — severe —
How have the mighty slipp'd away
Like thy lorn region here !
W. B. C.
73
APPULDURCOMBE PARK.
On approaching the noble mansion of Appuldurcombe,
the seat of the Earl of Yarborough, it appears to be sur-
rounded by an amphitheatre of lofty Downs, here and
there diversified and enriched by clumps of luxuriant
trees, casting their deep shadows on the sloping surface
of the hills. The principal entrance to the Park is by
way of Godshill, through an elegant gateway of the Ionic
order of architecture, in the form of a triumphal arch,
built of Portland stone.
The massive grandeur of the building, and the variety
and beauty of the adjoining scenery, have often deservedly
excited the admiration of visitors qualified properly to ap-
preciate the charms of nature and art. The Rev. William
Gilpin, who wrote professedly on Picturesque Beauty,
says of this place — " Here everything is uniformly grand ;
the house is magnificent, and it is magnificently furnished.
The grounds, too, are laid out in a style of greatness equal
to the mansion." Mr. H. Penruddocke Wyndham, Sir
Henry Englefield, and other writers, have expressed
similar opinions relative to the stately and delightful fea-
tures of this favourite spot.
The old house of Appuldurcombe (of which there is a
view in Sir Richard Worsley's " History of the Isle of
Wight") occupied the site of an alien priory, or cell to
the Abbey of Montisburg, in Normandy, founded in the
twelfth century, by Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon
D
74 APPULDURCOMBE PARK.
and Lord of the Isle of Wight, who gave to the Norman
monks this estate, on which were resident a prior and two
other brethren of their order. King Edward III., during
the war with France, removed the inmates of Appuldur-
combe to Salisbury ; and Henry V., on declaring war
against the French, seized all the alien priories in the
kingdom, retaining their revenues in his own hands. But
his successor, Henry VI., in the twentieth year of his
reign, restored the monastic establishment here, and gave
the estate to the nuns of Aldgate, London, who held it
till the suppression of monasteries, by Henry VIII.
The manor and estate of Appuldurcombe was long held
on lease from the Prioress of Aldgate, by the family of
Fry. The last of this family to whom it belonged, dying
without issue, left the leasehold property to his widow, a
daughter of John Hacket, Esq., of Woolverton ; and she
re-married Sir John Leigh, of More, in Dorsetshire, by
whom she had a daughter, her sole heiress, who became
the wife of Sir James Worsley, of Worsley Hall, Lan-
cashire, and the estate thus passed to the Worsleys about
1512. When the dissolution of monasteries took place,
about 1537, this estate, doubtless, was purchased of the
King by Sir James Worsley ; and it subsequently became
the principal seat of his family. Richard Worsley, Esq.,
of Appuldurcombe, was created a Baronet in 1611; and
from him the property descended to Sir Robert Worsley,
who, in 1710, laid the foundation of the present man-
sion, on the same spot with that which preceded it.
The original design for this structure was published in
the " Vitruvius Britannicus," by Colin Campbell. The
APPULDURCOMBE PARK. 75
building, however, remained for many years unfinished ;
and the merit of having completed it, with some variations
from the original plan, is due to Sir Richard Worsley,
who, in 1785 — 1787, travelled through parts of Italy,
Greece, Turkey, and Egypt, and collected, with much
taste and judgment, numerous valuable relics of antiquity,
now forming the grand ornaments of his family seat. Sir
R. Worsley, who was M.P. for the borough of Newport,
governor of the Isle of Wight, comptroller of the King's
household, &c, died at Appuldurcombe, in 1805. His
only son having died before him, this estate devolved on
his sister, the wife of John Bridgeman Simpson, Esq.,
whose only daughter conveyed it, by marriage, to Charles
Anderson Pelham, Earl of Yarborough, commodore of the
Royal Yacht Squadron, who died on board his vessel, the
Kestrel, when off the coast of Portugal, May, 1847. He
left a son, his successor, C. A. Lord Worsley, several years
M.P. for one of the divisions of Lincolnshire; a second
son, Captain Dudley Pelham, R.N. ; and a daughter, Lady
Charlotte Copley.
Viewing Appuldurcombe as we approach it over Week
Down, or over that of Shanklin, by Cook's Castle, it ex-
hibits a variety of fine landscape scenery, and affords a
noble prospect of the mansion and surrounding country.
On the knoll ascent behind the house stand beech-trees of
unusual magnitude, with venerable oaks, forming part of
a well-wooded back-ground to the view. The building,
which may be considered, in its architectural design, as
rather ponderous than elegant, may be described as having
four fronts of the Corinthian order, the pilasters, cornices,
D 2
76 APPULDURCOMBE PARK.
balustrades, and other ornamental portions, being con-
structed of Portland stone. The grand entrance is on the
eastern side, where there are two projecting wings ; and
in the front of which stretches a noble lawn, richly deco-
rated with exotic trees and flowering shrubs. On the
southern side is a colonnade, whence there is a delightful
view. The entrance-hall, fifty-four feet in length, and
twenty-four in breadth, is embellished with eight Ionic
columns, stained or painted in imitation of porphyry. On
the first and attic stories are more than twenty bed-cham-
bers, with corresponding dressing-rooms. u Whichever
way we turn our eyes in this hall, the most precious pieces
of ancient sculpture, without mutilation, or paintings of
the Roman or Venetian schools, claim our attention.
These are all fixed on the walls of the room, and are
arranged with so much elegance and harmony, that their
disposition could not be amended. The other rooms on
this floor are also superbly furnished, and decorated with
some fine pictures, and many excellent drawings of the
cities, countries, and ruins of the east."
Among the pictures in this collection are some of the
admirable productions of Holbein, Vandyke, Lely, Knel-
ler, and Reynolds, together with those of Guido Rheni,
Spagnoletti, Schiavoni, and the Carracci ; also two large
landscapes by Zuccarelli, the school of Athens by Tres-
ham, and Sir Thomas Lawrence's celebrated picture of
Kemble in Coriolanus. And here are portraits of Henry
the Eighth, and his son Edward when an infant, by Hol-
bein, and portraits of Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, and
the Earl of Essex. And as a fine specimen of modern
APPULDURCOMBE PARK. 77
sculpture, a highly- finished bust of the late Lady Yarbo-
rough, by Nollekens.
As the limits to which our descriptive notices are re-
stricted preclude the possibility of any detailed account of
the treasures of ancient art collected by Sir Richard Wors-
ley, we refer those who wish for further information to
the catalogues, in English and Italian, published by the
collector, under the title of " Museum Worslieanum."
On the summit of the hill behind the house stands an
obelisk of Cornish granite, seventy feet in height, erected
in 1774, in commemoration of Sir Robert Worsley, the
founder of Appuldurcombe House, by his grand-nephew,
the last Baronet, who completed and furnished it. On a
rocky cliff, about a mile from the park, to the east, is a
structure, called Cook's Castle, an artificial ruin, erected
for effect, like the fragmentary piles near Virginia Water,
in Windsor Great Park.
Appuldurcombe Park is situated seven miles south-east
of Newport, and about a mile from the village of Gods-
hill. Persons wishing to see the interior of the man-
sion must obtain admission -tickets, which are readily
furnished to respectable applicants by Thomas Sewell,
Esq., of Newport. The appointed times for viewing this
place are Tuesdays and Fridays, between the hours of
eleven in the morning and four in the afternoon.
78
GODSHILL.
This very quiet and picturesque village is situated within
a short distance from the principal entrance to Appuldur-
combe. The cottages are neat, with small gardens attached
and adorned with a variety of flowering shrubs. A com-
modious inn has recently been erected here. The parish
dates back beyond the compilation of Dooms-Day Book,
and is one of the six churches bestowed by William Fitz-
osborne on his Abbey of Lyra in Normandy. The Church
has a handsome tower adorned with pinnacles, and has
five bells and an antique clock, and being erected on a
lofty and steep knoll, is conspicuously visible from every
part of this wide and extensive vale. The inside is kept
very neat, which a long range of Gothic arches equally
divides into two similar aisles. Another aisle crosses the
church from North to South ; and in the north part of it,
is a superb monument of marble, erected to the memories
of Sir Robert Worsley and his brother Henry, whose
busts are finely sculptured, and placed upon the sar-
cophagus of the monument. Several other monuments
of the Worsley family, and of the still more ancient pro-
prietors of Appuldurcombe, are to be seen within its walls.
Godshill has a grammar-school, founded and endowed by
Sir Richard Worsley, in addition to a large free-school.
79
SANDOWN.
Passing the barracks and the new Church of Sandown,
we descend to its beautiful Bay, where along it are ranged
numerous cottages and dwellings, several of them of light
fantastic forms, delightfully situated for the benefit of
the sea-air during the summer months, and where every
convenience is afforded for the benefit of sea-bathing.
The spot, however, is deficient of trees, and this deficiency
is always felt the more on leaving the umbrageous and
shady groves of Shanklin. Sandown is, however, rising
in estimation, judging from the rapid increase of its
buildings.
Sandown Church.
The new district-church of the increasing village of
Sandown has been lately erected on a commanding site,
presented by Sir William Oglander. It is a simple and
unpretending structure in the early decorated style, and
consists in plan of Nave and Chancel, with one Aisle and
a Porch which forms the lower part of the Tower, which
is finished with a spire standing on a bold broach. The
interior is impressive and characteristic. It contains sit-
tings for 450 persons, one half of which are free.
The Church, contrary to the usual practice, is placed
North and South. It is to be regretted the shape of the
ground should have occasioned this deviation from the
general rule. It was erected from the designs of Mr.
Woodman, a young architect.
80 SANDOWN.
Sandown Fort,
Is a regular quadrangular fortification with a bastion at
each angle, and surrounded by a moat. This is the only
fort of any consequence in the island, and was constructed
to defend the most vulnerable point upon this part of the
coast left open by Nature to the descent of an enemy. It
was built with the materials of one of Henry the Eighth's
castles, which was demolished by the incursions of the
sea. During the American war, this fort was attacked by
privateers, but without success.
At a little distance from this fort, situated above the inn
on the west side of the cliff, where the shore begins to
rise, is the Cottage of the late celebrated John Wilkes,
who here ended his stormy political life in the year 1797.
YAVERLAND.
{Distant from Shanklin about four miles.)
Among the objects of antiquity in the Isle of Wight,
the parish church of Yaverland is particularly deserving
of notice. This structure, indeed, is altogether incon-
siderable in its dimensions, and in certain parts only dis-
plays the workmanship of an early period, yet it is interest-
ing as being probably the most ancient building of the
kind now existing in this island. It consists of a nave or
body, and a chancel. The entrance door-way on the
south side was originally square -headed ; but it is now
YAVERLAND. 81
surmounted by semi-circular mouldings, forming an arch,
which springs from the imposts of pillars, with capitals
not alike on both sides. The outer moulding is the zig-
zag or chevron, common in Norman architecture ; and
within it is another of an unusual form, which is charac-
terized by Sir Henry Englefield as "resembling in its
effect those rows of birds' heads sometimes met with in
arches of this style." The space between the square of
head of the door- way and the arch just described is orna-
mented with a kind of chequer- work or tracery inter-
spersed with roses. A part of this decorated surface has
been cut away to make the door-way higher, the ground
on which it stands doubtless having been raised since the
Church was built. The nave of the Church is divided
from the Chancel by an arch of a similar character with
that of the door-way, but more highly ornamented and
in better preservation. It springs from slender pillars,
hatched on the surface, as if to represent the trunks of
pines or fir-trees. The arch is adorned with a double
chevron moulding, within another which may be termed
an interlaced or diamond-shaped moulding. " On the
north side of this arch, there is the remainder of a small
staircase, opening into the chancel below, and passing
through the wall of separation. This evidently led into a
pulpit, situated nearly where the present wooden one
stands, but of the original pulpit, which probably was of
stone, there is not any part now discernible. The stair-
case appears coeval with the wall, and it is a very curious
and perhaps singular remnant of ecclesiastical antiquity,
bringing to remembrance the amlones, or reading-desks,
d3
82 YAVERLAND.
attached to the choirs, or absides of the earliest Chris-
tian churches."* This fine old arch forms the only
entrance from the nave into the chancel of the church.
There is, on the south side of this edifice, a window, which
appears to he of a later date than the parts above de-
scribed ; and the present window, at the east end, is the
work of a still more recent period.
Yaverland is twice mentioned in Domesday Book, under
the name of Evreland; and there were two manors or
estates there, one of which belonged to the King, and the
other to William Fitz-Azor. One or both these mansions
afterwards became the property of a family named De
Aula ; and in the reign of King Edward the First, the
estate passed to Sir William Russell, through his marriage
with Eleanor, the daughter and heiress of Thomas De
Aula. In the time of Queen Mary, it was purchased by
German Richards, and the last proprietor of his family
who held it gave it by will to the Rev. Mr. Wright, and
in case of his death without issue, to the members of Exeter
College, Oxford, to whom Yaverland now belongs. Sir
Richard Worsley says, one of the lords of the manor of
the family of De Aula built the church of Yaverland, in
the parish of Brading, and endowed it with the tithes of
his demesnes. This statement is probably correct, for a
pension is payable from Yaverland to the mother church
of Brading. In the valuation of livings, drawn up by
order of Cardinal Beaufort, in the reign of Henry the
* Sir H. Englefield: Description, &c. of the Isle of Wight,
p. 72.
YAVERLAND. 83
Sixth, this is mentioned as a chapelry, exempted from
taxation on account of inability.
This sacred edifice may be said to have been miracu-
lously preserved from destruction on Ash Wednesday,
1833. During a violent tempest on that day, several large
trees, situated near the church, were blown down, and
although they fell close to the building, it sustained no
other injury than a broken tile.
The Manor House of Yaverland,* built in the reign of
James the First, stands near the church-yard, on an emi-
nence open to the south. It is a large stone structure, of
the form commonly called a half H, or having projecting
wings. A carved doorway, leading from the hall to the
staircase, bears on it the date 1620. It has long been oc-
cupied as a farm house.
This venerable mansion, with its gable attics, antique
windows with stone mullions, and its ornamented chimneys,
has an appearance of a highly picturesque character, and
with the little ancient church, which is nearly surrounded
by fine old elms, presents a scene well worthy of the pencil
of the artist and amateur ; whilst from this spot is a noble
and commanding view of Sandown Bay, stretching its
curving shore along the sandy cliffs of Shanklin, and ter-
minating in the distance with that dark and towering pro-
montory, with the landslip below it —
" Where Dunnose in stern grandeur frowns
Upon the dark blue sea."
* The late Rev. Legh Richmond, who, in 1798, undertook the
charge of the adjoining parishes of Brading and Yaverland,
has given an interesting description of this spot in Part IV. of
" The Dairyman's Daughter."
84
BEMBRIDGE DOWJST,
Situated above the Culver Cliffs " is inferior only," as
Mr. Roscoe says, " to those of Arreton and Ashey, and
presents a rich diversity of extensive views. To the
south and east, spreads the boundless ocean, while the deep
blue waters of Sandown Bay form a beautiful contrast
with the land scenery of the west. Below the observer
extend the vast chalky precipices of the Culver Cliffs, four
hundred feet above the level of the sea. If adventurous
enough, he may visit a spot on his return, called the Her-
mit's Hole, which penetrates twenty feet into the rock,
and about thirty feet below the highest point of the cliff.
The pathway is exceedingly narrow, and any obstacle oc-
curring, would have puzzled us not a little, either how to
proceed onwards or to retreat.1'
"A singular incident, said to be well authenticated,
occurred to a person whose curiosity led him to visit this
hollow cavity alone. He met a sheep on the narrowest
part of the ledge, but instead of disputing the passage,
wisely laid down upon his face, permitting the animal to
pass over him — a plan, doubtless, agreeable to both
parties."
Earl or Yarborough's Obelisk.
On the summit of Bembridge Down, was erected, in
1 849, a lofty obelisk, as a memorial of esteem and respect
to the memory of the late Charles Anderson Pelham,
Earl of Yarborough, Commodore of the Royal Yacht
Squadron, by subscriptions from members of the Club.
The ground was given by Sir Graham Eden Hammond.
It is built of granite, and is seventy-five feet high, and
fourteen feet square at the base, the whole forming a
THE CHURCH AT BEMBRIDGE. 85
simple and grand monument, and will be used as a sea-
mark. It was designed and erected by Mr. Peter Holt,
the government contractor for the extensive works in
Portsmouth Dock -Yard.
Bembridge Church.
Although Bembridge is out of the usual track of
visitors, yet we presume a description of this newly
erected edifice will gratify some of our readers.
The church has been rebuilt, from the designs of Mr.
T. Hellyer, architect, to whose taste and talent the town
of Byde is indebted for its handsome church of Trinity.
It is erected on the site of the old one, which, although
built only a few years since, was so dilapidated as to
endanger its safety. It is of simple composition, in the
early English style, with a chancel of somewhat later
date, and consists in plan of a nave and south aisle, with
north and south porches.
The interior effect is well sustained, and so faithfully
has the spirit of the old building been felt, that many per-
sons have taken the structure for an old one restored.
The roof of the nave is very striking, and displays some-
what of a novel character in modern church architec-
ture, although frequently met with in buildings of the
date which served as a model in this instance ; it is of the
canted form, and every pair of rafters trussed, which pro-
duces a beautiful and varied perspective.
The tower is a simple and well-proportioned mass,
surmounted by a broach spire of graceful outline, and it
serves as a landmark for vessels at sea, to which purpose
the Trinity Board subscribed one thousand pounds.
The interior dimensions are as follow : — Nave, 52 by
86 THE CHURCH AT BEMBRIDGE.
21 feet ; aisle, 60 by 17 feet ; chancel, 22 by 17 feet. The
church contains sittings for 560 worshippers.
The interior is excellent throughout. The low circular
shafts, with their elegant arches, the well-shaped chancel
arch, and the exceedingly beautiful and highly pointed
opening into the tower at the west end, are all pleasing
and satisfying ; and there is a character of solemn re-
verence, and of extreme, yet not exaggerated simplicity,
which leaves little to be desired to fill up the ideal of
what a village church should be. The wood- work of the
church is excellent ; the seats are low and uniform ; there
are no needless and unsightly pew-doors, nor other un-
christian distinctions. The holy table is simple and mas-
sive, and of correct design. The altar-rails are well
carved in oak, and of early English date. The desk is
very rich and elegant. The pulpit deserves all praise ; it
is of rich perpendicular design, and placed on a stone base,
formed into a projecting bracket in front, and ascended by
stone steps. It is unusually low, but quite high enough,
and commands the church effectually. This admirable
pulpit is at the base of one of the piers, and is visible from
every part. The font is very beautiful, circular, and pa-
nelled with a rich and elegant arcade of early English de-
sign, adorned with Christian emblems.
Beading Church.
This large and venerable pile, with its massive tower
and steeple, said to be built in the year 704,* has been
* The first converts to Christianity in the Island are said to
have been here baptized, and frequently skeletons of gigantic
size (supposed to be the remains of ancient Saxons) have been
discovered in the cemetery.
BRADING CHURCH. 87
pronounced to be the oldest church in the Island, and
possibly some part of the building may claim an earlier
date than that of Yaverland, or old Bonchurch. It con-
sists of a body, chancel, and side-aisles. The massive
round pillars of its interior, which support the pointed
arches, present a fine study for the antiquary. There are
some curious old tombs in the communion place, rnd also
in the chapel of the Oglanders, the burial place of that
family, which is separated from the rest of the church by
an old oak screen.
In the adjacent cemetery are several well-written epi-
taphs, of which we shall select two : the first of consider-
able poetical merit, from the pen of the late Rev. Mr.
Gill, curate of Newchurch. This pleasing composition
was considered worthy to be set to music by the late
eminent composer, Dr. Calcott, whose melody displays a
most beautiful and plaintive style.
ON MRS. ANN BERRY.
Forgive, blest shade, the tributary tear
That mourns thy exit from a world like this ;
Forgive the wish that would have kept thee here,
And stayed thy progress to the seats of bliss.
No more confined to grovelling scenes of night,
No more a tenant pent in mortal clay ;
Now should we rather hail thy glorious flight,
And trace thy journey to the realms of day.
The other epitaph, of great simplicity, is inscribed on
the tomb of an infant of the name of Dyer.
88 BEADING CHURCH.
This lovely bud, so young, so fair,
Call'd hence by early doom ;
Just come to show how sweet a flower
In Paradise would bloom !
Nor must we pass over the humble tomb which is
situated at the back of the church, on its south-east
corner. Its inscription, of equal celebrity, from the pen
of the Rev. Legh Richmond, tells us that —
JANE, THE YOUNG COTTAGER, LIES BURIED HERE.
At the back of the church stood the house* where for
some time resided this highly-respected clergyman,f who
officiated here as curate, whose talents and labours, and the
beauty and piety of his writings, have left recollections not
easily to be effaced. "The Annals of the Poor," containing
the "Negro," the "Young Cottager," and the "Dairy-
man's Daughter" have laid the groundwork for the best
of all national educations, by inculcating sentiments of
humility and piety towards Heaven; while patience,
gentleness, and mutual love and truth are inculcated as
duties men owe to one another, and as the purest incense
they can oifer up to their Creator." — Roscoe.
* A new Vicarage House in the Tudor style has been erected
in 1849, contiguous to the site of the old building, — from the
designs of Mr. Hellyer, architect, Ryde.
■f The Rev. Legh Richmond, one of the brightest ornaments
of the Church, after many years of extensive usefulness and
unwearied exertion, died with a full hope of immortality, May 8,
1827, aged fifty-five years, leaving a widow and eight surviving
children to mourn their irreparable loss.
BRADING CHURCH. 89
A grave-stone with the following memorial was erected
in 1822 in the churchyard of Arreton, marking the spot
where repose the remains of Elizabeth Wallbridge, The
Dairyman's Daughter, from the pen of her faithful
biographer, the Rev. Legh Richmond : —
Stranger! if e'er by chance or feeling led,
Upon this hallow'd turf thy footsteps tread,
Turn from the contemplation of the sod,
And think of Her whose spirit rests with God.
Lowly her lot on earth — but He, who bore
Tidings of grace and blessings to the poor,
Gave her, his truth and faithfulness to prove,
The choicest treasures of his boundless love, —
(Faith that dispell'd affliction's darkest gloom —
Hope that could cheer the passage to the tomb —
Peace, that not hell's dark legions could destroy —
And Love that fill'd the soul with heavenly joy.)
Death of its sting disarm'd, she knew no fear,
But tasted heav'n e'en whilst she linger'd here.
O, happy saint ! may we, like thee, be blest, —
In life be faithful, and in death find rest.
Brading Haven.
The extensive marsh of Brading consists of eight hun-
dred and fifty acres. The Haven, at high tide, presents
the appearance of a beautiful lake, and gleams like a
mirror in the mid-day sun. Sir Hugh Middleton, the
memorable projector of the New River, near London, once
endeavoured to exclude the entrance of the sea, by an em-
bankment of a peculiar construction ; but after repeated
90 BRADING HAVEN.
attempts, the scheme proved abortive, and it was given up,
after an expenditure of 7000Z. At high water there is
sufficient depth to convey small vessels to the quay, and the
haven supplies the inhabitants with several kinds offish. At
low tide, the change is astonishing, exhibiting then a
dreary tract of mire and wet sand, enlivened only by a
small stream, called the Eastern Yar, which runs through
it, and which takes its rise near the back of the island,
between Whit well and Niton, at the further end of the
Undercliff.
The beauty and brilliancy of the haven at high tide
has a very striking effect, while passing it on the road
from Kyde to Shanklin ; its margin then appears as if
surrounded by winding silvery rivulets, wending their
course around luxuriant verdure of the brightest green.
In the vicinity of this haven is the famous roadstead of
St. Helen's, where our men-of-war and merchantmen are
seen to ride in perfect safety, while taking in provisions
previous to their adieu to Old England.
The earliest charter of Brading is dated in the reign of
Edward VI. The common seal is encircled with this
motto — " The Kinge's Towne of Bradynge."
The town of Brading has nothing to recommend it
either to the eye of the artist or the stranger. The only
attractive feature of the spot consists in its ancient, massive,
and picturesque church.
Having now described the whole of the scenery in the
neighbourhood of Shanklin, we proceed by the Carriage
Way, through Bonchurch and Yentnor to the Undercliff
— the footway to Bonchurch through the Landslip having
already been described.
91
SHANKLLNT TO BONCHURCH, BY THE
CARRIAGE-WAY,
A distance of three miles and a half.
On leaving Shanklin, the road passes by the Rectoral
residence of the Rev. Archdeacon Hill, situated on the
right, at the head of a short turning above Williams's
Hotel. Here the most luxuriant myrtles are seen
flourishing in the open air around the simple yet tastefully
designed thatched Cottage. On resuming our walk, the
high road is lined by fine oaks, elms, and various other
tree3 growing in this romantic dell, which forms the
inland continuation of the celebrated Chine, and where the
stream that supplies it is seen to flow. The little village
Church is now before us. Proceeding through the Turn-
pike-gate, we observe on the left, a gate leading across an
open field, where on the slope of its rising ground above,
are some magnificent ash trees spreading their branches
in the most graceful forms. One of the springs by which
the Chine is fed, is discerned while passing through this
gate, (the path itself being a short cut for pedestrians in
order to avoid the circuitous winding of the high road on
the side of the lofty Down.) The botanist will here be
delighted by many of Nature's gems studding the verdant
slopes with their varied hues.* On reaching the top of
* A friend in the summer of 1848, gathered from the side of
this road, opposite to where the ash trees stand, a single stem of
foxglove, on which were blooming 126 separate flowers.
92 SHANKLIN TO BONCHURCH
the field, and crossing a stile, we regain the high road, and
from this elevated point a most magnificent view presents
itself, comprising the whole vicinity of Shanklin, whose
white cottages are seen to be studding the valley, inter-
spersed with groups of clustered trees. Above it, spreads
the beauteous Bay of Sandown, crowned by the white
Culver Cliffs. The new Church of Sandown (of which a
separate description is given in this work) forms a con-
spicuous feature in the view. Between the Downs of
Brading and Bembridge, appears Brading Haven, glisten-
ing in a brilliant silvery light. Beyond it, across the
Solent Sea, is seen Portsmouth, with its batteries and
bastions, and Portsdown Hill rising above ; while in the
distance extends a range of the Sussex coast, stretching
along the horizon, towards Brighton and Beachy Head,
till lost and blended with the sea and sky.
In the evening is seen from hence the floating light,
called " The Nab," which is fixed at the extremity of a
dangerous reef of rocks, and projects far out at sea, pre-
senting the appearance of some unknown planet, to
bewilder those who are not acquainted with its beneficent
intention.
It was our good fortune to behold this noble view on a
day when the boundless ocean exhibited its wide expanse
in a colour of the most intense blue, vying in splendour
with the famed Italian seas, whilst, inland of the Island,
the undulating ground was covered with extensive corn-
fields, waving their golden treasures in the breeze.
On turning the angle of the road, we sweep round the
brow of an immense amphitheatre of Down. From hence,
BY THE HIGH ROAD. 93
Luccombe Chine is seen below us, breaking into the view
from the sea. The rugged character of this Chine — the
varied features of the swelling ground, together with the
loft j, verdant slopes of the Mountain-Down, never fail to
impress upon the mind of the beholder the grandeur of a
first glance of the wild sublimity of the Back or the
Island.
At this point commences that vast southern ridge of
chalk hills above the green sandstone strata, which extends
from hence to Black Gang Chine, forming that northern
wall of protection which has rendered the climate of the
Undercliff so peculiarly mild and salubrious.
A descent of the road shortly brings us to the approach
towards Bonchurch. At the point immediately before we
reach the Hotel, the whole of this wondrous scene, in all
its beauty, suddenly bursts upon the sight.
Bonchurch.
" All hail, lovely Bonchurch, thy hills and thy dales,
Where grandeur reposes, and beauty prevails !"
Here the spectator should take a station on the rocky
eminence belonging to the hotel, on which a flag-staff is
raised, and where garden-seats are placed, from whence
visitors may advantageously contemplate the delightful
scene.
From this point of view the distance extends to Vent-
nor and Steephill Castle, and Ribbands's Hotel appears
immediately in the foreground. Beyond it, a number
94 BONCHURCH.
of picturesque villas and lodging-houses extend in an
irregular line, with gardens in front, which communi-
cate with the private road leading to Pulpit Rock Villa
and Rosemount ; whilst, on the side of the road opposite
to the hotel, is a handsome Cottage, called Cliff Den,
the residence of Lady Hampson. In this magnificent
panorama, the attention of the traveller is principally
attracted to that portion of the view —
" Where bold and craggy cliffs impend,
And form a barrier wall ;
Where ivy-shoots with holly blend,
Or in loose tresses fall."
At the further extremity of the upper cliff, appears the
curious projecting rock, named " The Pulpit," surmounted
by a rustic wooden cross, where, from its castellated
tower, may be obtained a more elevated prospect of re-
markable grandeur, whose magnificence has already been
amply described in page 13.
Previously to the year 1840, this spot was claimed
by Nature as her own — a wilderness complete, whose
rugged masses of rock, seen from the vale, appeared to
be scattered in countless numbers over the heights, in-
termingled with luxuriant trees, evergreens, and under-
wood, exhibiting altogether a character of rude simplicity,
totally unlike the works of man. Now studded with white
villas, it assumes the air of an inhabited and richly orna-
mented scene.
In the distance, the steep and towering Down of St.
Boniface is seen to rise precipitously in all its native
BONCHURCH. 95
grandeur, crowning the undulating hills of Yentnor, and
overlooking all the buildings of the town, while the mighty
ocean is spread before us — how magnificent is the scene —
" When the sunbeam at eve paints with gold, rock and tree,
And the far distant sails shine like gems on the sea!"
While descending to the valley, by the steep declivity
called Bonchurch Shute, we observe on the right, the
New Church, of which a separate description has already
been given. At the bottom of the declivity, the road on
the left leads to the Old Church and the Landslip. To
the right it passes by the ridge on which is situated Un-
dermount Rock, and the lodge entrance to Mr. Dick's
villa, and through the village leading along the edge of
the Pond, where we are immediately struck with the
beauty of the hanging wood on the opposite side, its fine
Scotch pines so beautifully reflected in the pool ; while in
the distance, between the avenue of trees, is seen the
newly-formed Waterfall.
Admiral Hobson.
We cannot close our account of Bonchurch without
noticing it as the birthplace of an individual, who, from a
humble station in life, by a prompt act of heroism, laid
the foundation of fame and fortune, eventually becoming
an Admiral of the British Fleet.
In the reign of Queen Anne, an orphan boy was
apprenticed by the parish to a tailor at Niton, a village
about five miles distant. An adventurous disposition led
96 BONCHURCH.
him boldly to dare the narrow road to fame. Seated
one day at his master's shop-board, a squadron of men-
of-war was seen off Dunnose. Young Hobson, attracted
by the sight, and urged by the enthusiasm of the moment,
made to the shore, unobserved by the inhabitants, who
had collected to enjoy so grand a sight, and leaping into
a boat, pushed off to the squadron, and entered as a
volunteer on board the Admiral's ship. The interval of
time before reaching the fleet, must have been of intense
anxiety, whilst plying his oars with unwearied activity —
bereft of parents, and no friend to guide him, striving in
a solitary boat, against the swelling waves around him —
An orphan lone — he feels the stern decree,
And casts his die upon the world's wide sea !
The boat afterwards beat ashore, having been turned
adrift, and his hat, which in his hurry he had left behind
him, was found upon the sands, whence it was thought
that he had perished. The next day, (a most extraor-
dinary fact,) the squadron fell in with the French fleet,
an action ensued, in which the young sailor, after promptly
obeying orders in battle of two hours duration, asked the
sailors the object for which they were fighting. " For
that white rag at the enemy's mast-head, to be sure," was
the seaman's answer. " Oh, if that's all, I'll see what I
can do," when, concealed by the smoke, the youth climbed
the shrouds unperceived, and at the moment the two
Admirals were engaged yard-arm and yard-arm, made
his way along the main-yard, and gaining that of the
enemy, he mounted to the main-top-gallant-mast head,
BONCHURCH. 97
and carried off the flag, returning with it to his own
ship, while the British sailors were shouting " Victory."
The French crew, daunted by the apparent striking of
their flag, were dismayed, and thrown into confusion,
and forsook their guns. After the battle, the Admiral
hearing of this bold and heroic exploit, ordered him
to the quarter-deck, where, instead of receiving, as was
expected, a reprimand, he was immediately promoted, and
under the auspices of his Admiral, rose rapidly, while no
one at home, hearing of the valiant exploits of Admiral
Hobson, ever conjectured he was the old tailor's apprentice-
boy at Niton.
Years rolled on, when, upon a summer's day, a gentle
tap was heard at the humble cot in which still re-
sided the old tailor and his wife, and a party of naval
officers, who had just arrived at Spithead, made their
appearance at the cottage door, requesting to be allowed
to rest themselves, and to be accommodated with some
homely fare, such as the place might at the time afford.
The good old wife, surprised, and yet delighted with the
affability of the grand officers of the British navy, imme-
diately supplied them with a plain dish of eggs and bacon,
of which the host and hostess were invited to partake,
and no excuse allowed ; wine had been brought by the
party.
The cup went round, and all was mirth and glee —
He sung a verse — " the Perils of the Sea."
"Why, Bichard," exclaimed the old dame, "that's the
very song our Hobby used to sing," at the same time
E
98 BONCHURCH.
turning her head to hide the starting tear : — " And who
is Hobby ?" inquired the gallant Admiral. — " Ah ! Sir,"
replied the old man, " he was our lost apprentice-boy —
drowned many years ago ; — my wife is often talking of
him — poor unlucky lad!" The noble sailor, rising from
his seat, assured them he could tell something about him,
saying-
Give me your hands my friends — and wish me joy —
/ am that poor and long-lost orphan-boy.
And it is recorded that ample instances of the liberality
of Admiral Hobson were subsequently spoken of by the
aged inmates of the humble cottage at Niton.
Ventnor now lies before us. On approaching it, we
observe on the left, a tasteful and picturesque building,
erected in the Italian style, with a small bell turret. It
was originally intended as a School, but has since been
converted into an Hotel, and forms a very attractive ob-
ject as we enter the town from Bonchurch. The Church
of Yentnor seen in the distance, is favourably situated on
the rising ground contiguous to the Grove and its um-
brageous trees. But the boldest feature of the place is
the gigantic Down of St. Boniface, which here assumes
an air of considerable grandeur, rising immediately behind
the town, and forming a complete shelter against the cold
northerly winds.
99
VENTNOK.
See Ventnor rise ! — its undulating hill
Spread o'er with dwellings, and its pleasing Mill
By waters turn'd, which ever gushing pour
Between the cliffs, and tumble on the shore ;
Its Church and spire, its rocky Bay and Cove,
And the vast Down, that proudly towers above.
A few years since, Ventnor contained only a group
of huts for fishermen, an old water-mill, and a little
thatched inn, called " The Crab and Lobster," a humble
house of refreshment, where the branches of a wide-
spreading fig-tree afforded a welcome shade to the tra-
veller while regaling on its open lawn in front. What a
change is now presented ! The huts have vanished — the
old mill turned into a new one — and " The Crab and Lob-
ster," though diminished in eclat, is upon the constant qui
vive, surrounded as it is by anxious competitors, who are
all upon the sharp look-out The High-street of Ventnor
now passes between that little inn and the sea.
The most prominent characteristic of Ventnor is the
steep and lofty Down of St. Boniface, which rises abruptly
behind it, and completely overlooks the town. Ventnor
appears to most advantage when seen from the heights of
the neighbourhood ; it then forms a mass, whereas, from
any other point, the view becomes distracted, in conse-
quence of its numerous buildings being erected in all di-
E 2
100 VENTNOR.
rections, while the general deficiency of foliage is very
striking, particularly after having passed through Bon-
church and Shanklin, where it abounds. We must, how-
ever, except that portion in which is situated the Grove,
close to which is erected the church, presenting, with its
decorated spire, a highly ornamental object.
The first time we visited Yentnor was upon a fine
summer's evening. We entered it from the heights above,
by the Newport road, fortunately riding on the outside
of the coach, having hitherto proceeded the whole journey
without a single glimpse of the sea. The sun was shining
in all the evening splendour of a subdued purple light.
Suddenly the view burst upon the sight ; the town ap-
peared below spread out like a map, the windows of the
houses were blazing like an illumination, the church, with
its spire, finely contrasting with the dark tints of the grove;
while, on the left, rose the stately Down of St. Boniface,
and beyond it, in the distance, appeared the rich foliage
of Bonchurch, its white villas peeping between the trees.
The boundless ocean distended before us like a sky of in-
tense blue, and the distant vessels upon it shining like
gems of the brightest golden hue. Ventnor seen under
so beautiful an aspect could never be forgotten.
The most interesting part of Yentnor is decidedly that
in the vicinity of Grove Road, which commands a fine
view of the open sea, and has the advantage of being
enriched by the luxuriant foliage of the Grove. At this
spot, is situated a handsome Yilla, called Elm Grove House,
its sloping lawns, winding walks, and flowering shrubs,
being laid oat with the greatest taste. It is the property
VENTNOR. 101
of Mr. Drew, and is at present occupied by Albert Ham-
brough, Esq., eldest son of John Hambrough, Esq., of
Steephill Castle.
The Church of St. Catherine, "Ventnor.
The poor shall bless — the grateful heart shall prize
The pious gift that points towards the skies.
This sacred edifice was erected in the year 1836. The
first stone was laid in the month of June of that year by
Mrs. Hambrough, in the presence of a large concourse of
people from the surrounding neighbourhood. It was
built from the designs of Mr. Robert Ebbles, architect, of
Tettenhall Wood, near Wolverhampton.
The increase of inhabitants at this celebrated Watering
Place, and the great influx of strangers, rendered it de-
sirable to build a new Church, and, it is owing to the mu-
nificent liberality of John Hambrough, Esq., of Steephill
Castle, that it has been erected at his own entire expense,
at a cost of 337 1Z. Mr. Hambrough has also endowed it
with the sum of 1000/., the interest of which, with the
pew-rents, forms the stipend for the clergyman, at present
the Rev. John Noble Coleman.
The Church is of the early English style, with plain
lancet windows. It has an ornamented tower and spire
110 feet high, and stands upon an elevated spot 224
feet above the level of the sea. Its dimensions are fifty-
nine feet long, and thirty-six feet six inches wide, clear of
the walls, and it contains 505 sittings, 179 of which are
free and unappropriated. The site on which the Church
102 VENTNOR.
stands, together with the stone, was presented by Major
Popham Hill. In the year 1843 side galleries were added,
containing space for 200 sittings, entirely free, for the
use of the poor of the district.
A Chancel was appended to the Church in 1 849, whereby
the edifice is considerably enlarged, and the general eifect
greatly improved. Vestry rooms are also attached to the
chancel.
The handsome Parsonage House, situated on the cliff
near the sea, was also erected at the expense of Mr.
Hambrough, who bought the plot of ground on which it
stands. The expense of this dwelling for the incumbent
clergyman amounted to 2000Z.
The new Water-Mill, the Parsonage, and the Schools
at Ventnor, were all erected from the designs of the same
architect, Mr. Robert Ebbles.
There are Circulating Libraries with Reading Rooms
at Ventnor, which are supplied daily with the London
papers, the first of which established at the spot was that
of Spary's, the Post Office, where, for the great conveni-
ence of visitors, money-orders are issued and paid. Mr.
Spary is also engaged in House Agency.
A little beyond the Church, nearly opposite Moor's
Library, is a remarkable jutting Rock that overhangs the
road. A few years ago, a blacksmith's forge was situated
at its side. We remember it on a beautiful moonlight
night, when the furnace was darting its red and fiery rays
against the impending ledge of the crag, finely contrasting
with the mild splendour of the silvery moon, while the
blue smoke was curling and rising about the shady side
VENTNOR. 103
of the rock. It was an effect worthy of being depicted
by the magic pencil of Rembrandt.
In the year 1848 a new and excellent plan was adopted
for the purpose of supplying Ventnor with the purest
water, from a spring which rises on the side of St. Boni-
face Down. The water is conveyed by pipes to the tops of
nearly all the houses without requiring the least power
of machinery. The supply is abundant, and contributes
greatly to the comfort of the inhabitants. Thus by a for-
tunate and ingenious contrivance is the pellucid stream
partly directed to the use of the town, instead of being
wasted, as heretofore, by flowing into the sea.
The climate of this part of the Island, during the winter
months, is admitted by the most eminent physicians to vie
with that of Torquay in Devonshire, and the western parts
of Cornwall. This favourable circumstance, together with
the nearness of Bonchurch and Ventnor to the great me-
tropolis, are of considerable advantage to the invalid. It
is also well known that persons leaving Liverpool at six
in the morning, may reach the Undercliff by nine in the
evening of the same day. And a further great accommo-
dation to the public is now in progress. The want of a
secure landing-place at the back of the Island has long
been felt as an inconvenience. However, there are at pre-
sent some operations going on upon the shore at Bonchurch
which excite considerable local interest, and every hope is
entertained that before the end of the present year effec-
tive arrangements will enable steamers passing round the
Island, to land passengers without risk or disappointment.
It is stated by persons residing near the sea at this spot,
104 VENTNOR.
that great natural changes are now taking place in this
locality, which, by a little management, may render the
shore at Bonchurch and Ventnor more highly attractive.
So great a quantity of sand and shingle is known to be
travelling along the coast from the westward, that every
southerly or westerly gale adds to the comfort of those to
whom a stroll along shore may yield delight. It is sur-
prising to see the great improvement which has lately
taken place in this respect between Bonchurch and
Dunnose Point, where many thousands of tons have
foundered from the face of that bold promontory. And
although great facilities already exist for sea-bathing,
every advantage has recently been taken of the increased
quantity of sand accumulating on the beach. A spirited
proprietor of bathing machines at Bonchurch has, during
the last winter, to a considerable extent, cleared away the
rocks near the waterfall on the shore, in order to form a
private, but extensive bathing place for ladies.
Ventnor Cove.
A great and long- desired improvement has lately been
effected at this spot. In 1848, a substantial sea-wall, ex-
tending along the whole front of the Cove, from its east
end to that of its west, has been constructed, forming a
very handsome Esplanade above the beach ; thus afford-
ing to visitors a delightful marine parade, free from the
inconvenience of shingle or wet sand.
About fifteen years ago, this Cove presented to the eye
of the artist, one of the most interesting nooks in the Is-
VENTNOR. 105
land, and had previously afforded an excellent subject
for the pencil of the late talented painter, Luke Clennell.
It was in this neighbourhood and at Puckaster Cove,
that George Moreland availed himself of those rugged
beach scenes which he applied to pictures of " Smugglers
landing their cargo."
On its beach was situated a cluster of old thatched
fishing huts upon a raised bank, faced by rude stones
overhung by sea- weed — a few slight stems of trees,
stripped of their bark, serving as poles for sustaining lines,
on which were suspended fish for bait.
While sturdy fishers, active on the shore,
Spread the loose net — where lobster-pot and oar
Were piled around the weatherbeaten door.
In front of the huts, two or three large capstans were
fixed upon the beach, where some huge coils of rope were
lying, ready to haul up the boats, while a flight of sea-
gulls, screaming and hovering in the air, gave great
animation to the scene, —
These were its charms — but all these charms have fled,
Now, green Verandas deck the spot instead !
Looking from the high road of Ventnor, down upon the
Cove, we observe it to be filled with lodging houses and
baths — a winding road leading to them, — the new
Esplanade forming a handsome feature in the view, while
the detached rocks, dashed by the flowing wave, still
afford a very pleasing variety to the scene. Adjoining
E 3
106 VENTNOR.
the Cove is Mill Bay, whose copious stream, descending
to the beach, is heard at a considerable distance. In Mill
Bay is a house, built in the Italian style, with a tower,
rather outree for the situation it holds, so near the beach
— but this is not the only odd thing at Ventnor —
Where tier on tier, upon its rising ground,
Houses of all invented shapes are found.
There are two principal Hotels in this town, " The
Marine," and " The Ventnor," — the former overlooks
the Cove. The Crab and Lobster now ranks as a second-
rate house.
St. Boniface Down, Ventnor.
Every person who fears not a little fatigue, and whose
health and spirits will allow it, should ascend this eminence,
taking due precaution suggested in the hint we have
already given in the description of Bonchurch Down,
and he will meet an ample reward in the gratification he
will enjoy. The ascent of the acclivity is facilitated by
the footsteps already worn in the turf. To reach it, he
must proceed along Grove Road, passing Elmgrove House,
where the road becomes very steep, and he will soon
arrive at the foot of the Down. The worn footsteps on
the hill will direct him in his way.
On the top of this eminence he will have an extensive
view of the ocean, in a wide sweep of thirty miles — •
Ventnor from thence appearing below him to the greatest
advantage. While ascending the Down, he will observe
VENTNOR. 107
the grand curve it forms at the hollow Combe towards the
left, taking the shape of a horse -shoe. When arrived at
the summit, he must take the direction of the curve above
the valley. A slightly beaten track upon the upper part
of the Down may easily be traced, and on arriving at the
opposite side, a noble view presents itself across the
Island, with the mansion and grounds of Appuldurcombe
and its conspicuous obelisk. The summit of St. Catherine's
Hill, with its tower, (the highest point in the Island,)
may be discerned above the hills in the hazy distance on
the left, while beyond the extensive vale below, appears a
distant glimpse of the Solent Sea, and the harbour of
Cowes.
In the course of this little tour, an amazing difference
may be observed in the surface of the Down. That
portion which was ascended having the appearance of the
smoothest lawn, while, towards the opposite side, it is
covered with wild heath, tufted, and tangled together,
bearing myriads of blue flowers. The deep valley in the
hollow, appearing thence in all the grandeur of pristine
Nature, while the town of Ventnor presents a handsome
feature in the view, as seen between the green slopes of
the mountain-down.
The descent from this eminence will be found rather
more difficult than the ascent, in consequence of the
steepness of its pathway.
108 VENTNOR.
The Spring on St. Boniface Down, called
The Wishing Well.
A spring issuing from the slope of the Down at a
considerable height, has given cause for various conjec-
tures, and must still remain unexplained as a natural
phenomenon. It may be observed on the precipitous
height by the freshness of the green turf that denotes
its downward course. A steep and rough path, or rather
rude- worn steps lead to it. Many a pilgrim exploring its
source has discovered the true meaning of the name —
earnestly wishing himself safely back again.
This spring is situated nearer to Bonchurch than to
Ventnor.
Steephill Castle.
From Ventnor to Steephill the view of the sea is inter-
cepted by a high ridge or mound, extending nearly a mile
in length, as far as the Lodge Gates of the castellated
mansion of John Hambrough, Esq., which we pass on
the right. Here the road descends, and is completely
shaded by the branching trees which grow luxuriantly on
its skirts. At about a distance of a quarter of a mile from
the Gates, on looking back, an excellent view of this hand-
some edifice is obtained. It was erected on the site where
formerly stood Steephill Cottage, which was built by the
Right Hon. Hans Stanley, who was Governor of the
Isle of Wight, towards the end of the last century, and
it afterwards became the residence of the late Earl of
STEEPHILL. 109
Dysart. The present proprietor commenced this noble
structure in 1831, which was completed in 1833. The
designs for it were made by James Sanderson, architect,
who constructed the Town Hall at Ryde, and who was
unfortunately cut off, in the midst of his professional
career, in 1834. It is built in imitation of a baronial
castle of the fourteenth century, during the reign of
Edward I., and presents an embattled fagade, with a
Gothic portal, and oriel windows, having towers with
battlements at the angles, and another rising in the centre,
surmounted by a turret similarly ornamented.
The interior of the building displays much taste and
elegance in the general design and ornamental appendages;
it having been the object of the architect to combine, as
far as possible, the features of an ancient baronial fortress
with those architectural arrangements which are conducive
to comfort and convenience among the higher classes of
society in modern times. The principal apartments are
most splendidly fitted up, and decorated with antique fur-
niture, especially the Hall, the Drawing-room, and the
Library, the windows of which are ornamented with
stained glass, and the sides and ceilings display elaborately
carved mouldings and cornices.
In the pleasure-grounds, where nature has been lavish
in decorating the sylvan scene, the hand of art has since
been employed, with the utmost taste and judgment, in
making appropriate additions and improvements ; so that
what was before merely a beautiful wilderness, has been
transformed into a delightful garden. The undulating
ground, sheltered by tall trees, and defended on the north
110 STEEPHILL.
by the bold wall of the Uppercliff, has been laid out in the
most admirable and judicious manner. Near the house*
everything wears the aspect of artificial elegance ; while
the part extending to a distance westward exhibits shady-
lawns and tangled shrubberies, which have all the freedom
of native woods and wilds. Within this noble domain are
greenhouses, in which lemon and orange trees, with other
exotics, flourish in perfection, as luxuriant as in their
native climes. Further away, towards the entrance to the
grounds from Ventnor, are an excellent kitchen garden, a
hot -house for forcing vines, pine-beds, and other arrange-
ments for producing various luxuries for the table. Here,
too, is a room containing a collection of minerals and
fossils from the vicinity, among which are some fine
specimens of the cornu ammonis. It is evident that no
expense has been spared by the spirited and munificent
owner, to make this delightful place the general theme of
admiration and surprise, by the unrivalled combination of
every excellence which art or genius could devise.
The views from the lawn, the windows, or from the
summit of the building, take in a great variety and wide
scope of beautiful scenery; the open Channel is seen
in front, while on one side the prospect extends to St.
Lawrence, and on the other to St. Boniface Down and
Bonchurch.
The grounds were laid out by Page of Southampton,
under the superintendence of the refined taste of the pro-
prietor. The consummate skill with which this has
been executed has been testified by a very competent
judge.
ST. LAWRENCE. Ill
Mr. Paxton, the eminent gardener of the Duke of
Devonshire, has stated, that of all the places he had
ever seen, none were superior to the view from the draw-
ing-room windows ; and that although he had travelled
over the greater part of Europe, and surveyed the most
celebrated garden scenes, there was no place with which
he was so much gratified, as with the grounds of Steep-
hill.
Shortly after passing Steephill Castle, the Coast-guard
station, with its Look-out, and small forts erected on the
shore cliff, are seen towards the sea. A little further on
the left is situated the
Cottage of the Hon. Capt. Dudley Pelham, R.N.
built in the Elizabethan style, the dark roof of which, with
its ornamented chimneys, is just visible amongst the
trees. At the side of its rustic gate is the gardener's
lodge, nearly covered with ivy ; and a picturesque well,
beneath a simple thatch, has a pretty effect on the road-
side. We now descend into a shady dell, where, in a
deep recess on the right is the celebrated
Well of St. Lawrence.
This very attractive object, surmounted by a cross,
presents the appearance of a hermit's cell, and is enclosed
in a Gothic Portal of very chaste design, partially over-
run with ivy. Simplicity of style has, with great pro-
priety, been made the characteristic of this little edifice.
112 ST. LAWRENCE.
The Well itself is a fountain of ever-flowing liquid
crystal, the gentle murmurs of which, harmonizing with
the whisperings of the surrounding foliage, amidst which
the fluttering zephyrs play, produce the most tranquil
and soothing sensations. The water, as it issues from the
rock, passes through a dolphin's head, and falls in a con-
tinuous stream into a large shell, from which it descends
to the water-course beneath the road, and makes its way
to the sea.
As the Diamond in brightness all gems doth excel,
So no water 's more crystal than this limpid Well.
The Marine Villa of the Earl of Yarborough.
This delightful residence, the marine Tusculanum of
the Worsleys, is situated opposite the Well of St. Law-
rence. On entering its gates, the following inscription
appears upon its walls : —
" Forsake the tawdry tinsel of the great,
The peaceful cottage beckons a retreat,
Where true content each solid comfort brings —
To kings unknown, and favourites of kings !"
Secluded, and almost hidden by the surrounding foliage,
the villa can scarcely be seen by the passing stranger.
The reader may, however, form some idea of it from the
following description.
In the deep recess of the village of St. Lawrence, be-
tween the road and a pleasant sandy cove, bounded by
white cliffs, and faced by a small battery of brass cannon,
ST. LAWRENCE. 113
on a verdant lawn, embowered in delightful shades, stands
this Marine Villa; a retirement alike of elegance and
comfort, totally sequestered, yet rich in every ornament
of nature and art.
The villa was erected and furnished in a splendid style
by the late Sir Richard Worsley, and presents a scene of
considerable beauty. The architectural decorations con-
sist of an entrance gateway designed by Inigo Jones,
which once graced Hampton Court ; a pavilion designed
from the Temple of Minerva at Athens, fitted up as a
banqueting room or saloon ; and a model of the Temple
of Neptune at Corinth containing an orangery and conser-
vatory. Some of the ornamental objects which formerly
decorated the spot, have been removed to Appuldur-
combe. Here the founder planted, at a great expense, a
vineyard, which affording but an inadequate produce, a
few terraces under the slope of the lawn now alone re-
main, where the vines are trained and kept in excellent
order.
On another part of the villa, is the following quotation
from Shakspeare's As You Like It.
" And this our life, exempt from public haunt,
Finds tongues in trees ; books in the running brook ;
Sermons in stones — and good in everything."
Village of St. Lawrence and Church.
After passing the Well, the road suddenly ascends, and
becomes narrowed between stone walls and lofty elms,
and we enter the little romantic village, where we observe
several of its rural cottages nearly overrun with ivy.
114 ST. LAWRENCE.
After passing through it, we observe, on the top of the
ascending road on the left, the little church, and on the
right, the neatly-built gothic Vestry Room.
On approaching the church, we are struck with
its very charming simplicity — its single bell suspended
within the small gothic arch of its ivy- covered turret —
and its churchyard kept in the most beautiful order, many
of the tombs overspread with flowers, and even those
which denote the spot where —
" The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep"
have every care and attention bestowed upon their mossy
mounds.
The Church, situated beneath the great wall of the
Uppercliff, (which appears above it like an immense range
of towering rampart,) is said to have been the smallest
parochial one in England. It was originally only twenty
feet in length, by twelve in breadth, and only six feet in
height to the eaves ; but the Earl of Yarborough caused
it to be lengthened a few feet, to adapt it to the increased
population of the village. It is chiefly distinguished by
a cross on the gable of the east end, and an open turret
on the opposite extremity. As to its date, in the absence
of all record, it would be useless to speculate.
This parish was anciently called St. Lawrence under
Wath. It became a part of the property of the family of
Worsley in the time of Henry the Eighth ; and the estate
descended to the late Sir Richard Worsley, whose grand-
daughter, (ultimately the sole heiress,) married the late
Earl of Yarborough.
ST. LAWRENCE. 115
The greater part of the parish consists of a slip of land
extending about a mile and a half along the sea-shore, and
secluded from the adjacent country, which lies very high
above it, by a range of steep rocky cliffs on the north,
abutting in the most picturesque forms upon the Under-
cliff, upon which huge fragments frequently fall from the
heights. It is here that the tourist travelling from
Ventnor, first observes the grand, wild, and native charac-
ter of the region of the Undercliff.
A little beyond the Church of St. Lawrence, an irre-
gularly trodden pathway, called Kedgone, may be seen
leading up the cliff. Here many pedestrians prefer as-
cending to the margin of the Uppercliff, and thence
pursue their walk as far as Cripple Path (a spot hereafter
described) where they descend to continue their route
along the high road of the Undercliff. This plan is
certainly desirable, as it affords the opportunity of viewing
the luxuriant region that lies below them, bounded by the
mighty ocean spread beyond the whole. In all cases
we certainly advise every one to ascend the cliffs at
Cripple Path, to enjoy its magnificent and marvellous
scene, and then to return again to the road, and resume
their journey along the Undercliff.
116
THE UNDERCLIFF.
Passing along the Under cliff from St. Lawrence, the
scene becomes more wild and majestic. The range of the
Uppercliff rises with imposing grandeur, and the series of
declivities between its base and the sea (which widens
considerably as we approach Mirables) is covered with
numberless fragments of rock fallen from above. Here,
we may observe at every turn of the road a curious
variety in the contour or profile of the projecting Upper-
cliff, not two of them being alike ; and when seen by
twilight, as they lie massed in shadow against the glimmer-
ing sky, they may be fancied to resemble gigantic heads,
some looking towards the heavens, others drooping to the
earth, or scowling on the sea. We recommend all who
have a taste for sublime scenery to avail themselves of the
opportunity of beholding this extraordinary region by
moonlight, when the mighty sheet of waters spread in
front, reflects from its rippling waves a gleam of silvery
and resplendent light.
The Undercliff, as we have already noticed, may be
regarded as commencing at Bonchurch on the east, and
extending westward to Knowles or Rocken End, in the
vicinity of Black Gang, a line of nearly six miles. A
perpendicular precipice stretches along its entire length.
At the summit are extensive fields and Downs. The space
which is spread below this lofty rampart varies in width
THE UNDERCLIFF. 117
from half a mile to a mile, and comprises the Undercliff,
which reaches to the sea. In this tract enormous blocks
of rock lie scattered about in all directions, half hidden
by tangled brambles, and partially overrun with ivy and
other evergreens, and here and there interspersed, are
highly cultivated spots, some of which, of two or three
acres in extent, with inclosures of luxuriant vegetation,
where at intervals we observe the handsome villa and the
ornamented cottage peering from between the foliage, the
blue smoke curling amidst the branches of the clustered
trees.
The formation of this remarkable coast having already
been described in these pages, it is unnecessary to repeat
it — ages have rolled on since the mighty disruptions of
the cliff, the most recent of which must have occurred
many centuries ago, and the undulating terraces of the
Undercliff are the result of such repeated landslips, which,
in this locality, are not likely to happen again, as the
enormous masses of chalk, which, in those convulsions,
have been hurled down towards the sea, now form sub-
stantial barriers against any further escape of the under
stratum of the Uppercliff, called Blue Slipper.
We must not omit to notice, that, between Steephill
Cove and St. Lawrence is a line of highly picturesque
and lofty cliffs, leaning forward over the sea shore in the
most threatening attitude ; and the passage is obstructed
by numerous rocks, some of immense size, which have
fallen from the cliff. This place, called Western Lines,
extends about half a mile, and affords an excellent spot
for the geologist to explore, and to study the peculiar
118 THE UNDERCLIFF.
kinds of rocks which form this part of the coast. Few
persons, however, visit it, it being out of the beaten track.
Pursuing our tour from St. Lawrence, we shortly pass
on our left the entrance gates of
Old Park,
The seat of J. Walkinshaw, Esq., the piers of which,
formed of large blocks of sandstone roughly put together,
are partly covered with ivy. The house, situated at some
distance from the gate, is a substantial building of good
design. The private road leading to it, winds through an
extensive plantation of firs, and a sheet of water, a dairy,
cornmill, and bathing-house, contribute in giving variety
to the grounds. — We now approach
Mir able s,
The charming villa of Mrs. Arnold, who has resided here
many years, and has attained a very advanced age. The
house is partially seen between the stems of an umbrageous
mass of lofty trees, casting their deep shadows across the
road. Above their tufted heads innumerable rooks hover
over their high-built nests, and caw in the air. The
dwelling, which is almost entirely screened from view,
is in the simple cottage style, with a veranda facing the
sea. One of the apartments is of a superior description,
and is adorned with some excellent pictures. This opens
to a lawn gently undulating to the shore, and is sur-
rounded by a shrubbery intersected by serpentine walks
THE UNDERCLIFF. 119
and enriched with beds of fragrant flowers. The plea-
sure grounds, although small, are so admirably contrived
as to appear of considerable extent, and are cooled by a
perennial flow of limpid water. A neat dairy is attached,
and over its tiled floor glides the pellucid stream, imparting
a refreshing and delicious sensation during the summer
season.
All the seats and villas of the Undercliff are held in
seclusion, and the tourist can obtain but a partial glimpse
of them, unless favoured by special leave to enjoy a sight
of the artificial embellishments of their varied situa-
tions. The grounds of these villas generally form their
principal attraction, and as these chiefly face the sea,
the stranger has no access to them. The principal beauty
of the Undercliff, however, consists in that portion which
exhibits its primitive state, where Nature reigns triumph-
ant, imparting a much higher gratification by the dis-
play of her native charms, than any adornment the hand
of refinement can possibly confer.
Now the gently falling shower
Raises ev'ry drooping flower,
Ferns and blooming heaths abound,
Breathing freshness all around ; —
And here, upon a summer's night,
The mossy banks bespangled bright,
Are glitt'ring with the glow-worm's light !
On passing Mirables, where the road ascends, we
observe the grandeur of the projecting mass of the Upper-
cliff as we wind beside its front. The road on either side
120 THE UNDERCLIFF.
is here fenced by a slight iron palisade, in which, on the
right hand, is a latch gate opening towards the steps of
Cripple Path.
Here we advise the tourist to ascend the rugged cliff,
(the pathway to it being perfectly safe,) and to enjoy
from the margin of the fields above, the extraordinary
region spread beneath him. This elevated position com-
mands the whole of the Undercliff from St. Lawrence to
the Lighthouse at Niton, and presents to the eye a sin-
gular picture of native wildness, blended with partial
cultivation, and a rich display of landscape scenery — the
whole bounded by the mighty ocean, on whose bosom are
floating the widely-extended shadows of the clouds, whilst
the lofty wall of rock, like a stupendous rampart, seems
to threaten, and to frown upon the peaceful scene below.
Looking from this height towards the left, we see the
distant undulating grounds of the vale of St. Lawrence.
Then succeeds Old Park. The tall clustered trees of
Mirables next appear. Immediately opposite to us, is
the delightful seat called The Orchard, where a circular
fish pond is seen within its grounds. Beyond it, towards
the west, is Puckaster Cottage, the residence of Mrs.
Vine, and in its vicinity are descried the picturesque
fishing huts of Puckaster Cove. Still further towards the
west, is the Lighthouse at Niton, rising like a handsome
lofty pillar near the shore ; whilst in the immediate
vicinity of Cripple Path, on the right of the road, is the
pretty cottage called Beauchamp, above which impends
THE UNDERCLIFF. 121
the craggy towering Uppercliff. This scene, under the
influence of certain effects of light and shade, presents one
of the most splendid views in the Island, and should never
be omitted to be visited by any one making the tour of
the Undercliff. We now descend, and resume our journey
along the high road, passing on our left
The Orchard,
The Seat of Sir Willoughby Gordon, Bart.
A handsome stone structure standing upon a verdant
terrace facing the sea, and resembling, on a small scale,
the terraced slopes of an Italian Villa. The parapet on
the margin of the terrace is decorated at intervals with
handsome vases, filled with the most beauteous and
fragrant flowers, presenting an appearance of considerable
splendour. On the lawn below it, is a circular fish-pond
with a fountain, throwing up jets of the purest crystal
water. The grounds, enriched by a great variety of
exuberant foliage, display in their general arrangement,
the greatest taste. From the terrace descends a flight of
steps, (leading to the pleasure garden,) overarched by a
canopy of luxuriant fig trees, whose twisted branches and
broad dark leaves form a delightful shade. The Orchard
is generally considered to be the most handsome seat in
this part of the Undercliff.
Nearly opposite to it, we observe
122 THE UNDERCLTFF.
Beauchamp,
A neat and pretty cottage, built of stone, and situated on
the right hand of the road, immediately under the im-
pending Uppercliff. A lawn of the finest verdure slopes
towards the road, whence a good view of it is obtained,
and where its green mounds appear to the greatest ad-
vantage. The grounds although small, are adorned with
some noble firs, pines, and a variety of other trees. We
next skirt the margin of one of the most beautiful cottage
retreats in the Island, situated on the left of the road,
called
Puck aster Cottage,
The charming residence of Mrs. Vine, designed in the
best taste as a cottage ornee, with a semicircular front
facing the sea. It was originally thatched, but is now
covered with a roof of dark -red ornamented tiles. Around
its rustic pillars are clinging the most elegant creeping
plants, the whole presenting a scene of great beauty.
In the grounds are two immense fragments of rock
jutting forth amidst fragrant shrubs and flowers, whilst
a magnificent Laurustina hedge, bearing a profusion
of bloom, nearly surrounds the pleasure garden. The
interior of the house displays great taste, its principal
room containing drawings by first-rate artists, selected
from a large collection made by the late James Vine, Esq.
Amongst them is one of Black Gang Chine — the waves
beating on the beach, and boatmen pushing off to sea.
THE UNDERCLIFF. 123
This fine drawing was made expressly for Mr. Vine by
the late talented artist Luke Clennell.
In the vicinity of this cottage is Puckaster Cove, (to
which a lane leads down towards the shore,) presenting a
very picturesque subject for the pencil ; where a few huts
upon the beach are used to deposit nets and fishing gear.
The best scene, however, of this kind is afforded at
Luccombe Chine, where the poor fishermen of that locality
reside with their families, a spot which reminded us of
the following lines, partly translated from the ancient
Greek poet Moschus
The Fisher's Home.
See yonder huts upon the rocky shore,
Of thatch so rude — and weatherbeaten door,
Where net and line are loosely spread around ;
'Tis there the fisher's humble home is found.
Sad is the doom, and irksome is the lot,
To hold life's tenure on a fragile boat —
To plough the restless deep — its dang'rous way,
And oft pursue in vain the finny prey.
Thus the poor fisher toils upon the sea —
A sea of trouble and adversity.
Ye who for worldly thrift or pleasures roam,
Reflect upon the fisher and his home.
At Puckaster Cove, Charles II. landed, after encounter-
ing a violent storm at sea in 1675, as recorded in the
register at Niton, and attested by Thomas Collinson, at
that time Rector of Niton.
In the immediate vicinity of Puckaster Cottage, is a new
F 2
124 THE UNDERCLIFF.
and large establishment called " The Undercliff Boarding
House," to which " The Victoria Baths," for sea-bathing,
are attached.
Pursuing our course, the " Well House" is situated at
the foot of the descent of the road on the left, and we pass
on our right a tastefully built white house, with an Italian
tower, called " La Rosiere," the property of Joseph Lobb,
Esq. ; and thence shortly arrive at the cross-road, which at
the turnpike strikes off to the right and left, the former
leading to Niton and the latter to the Sandrock Hotel and
Black Gang.
A handsome villa called " Westcliff" faces us as we pro-
ceed towards the turnpike. It was the residence of the
late Mr. Holford, who bequeathed an immense fortune.
Its fine hanging plantation of trees and shrubs, rising to
the summit of the precipice behind it, imparts considerable
richness and beauty to the scene. We next reach —
The Sandrock Hotel,
A delightful spot, situated on a rising ground towards
the uppercliff, and commanding a fine view of the sea. It
was originally built as the private residence of a gentle-
man of taste and fortune, who greatly admired the
wild scenery of the Undercliff. It was afterwards pur-
chased to be converted into an hotel — hence, it has
more the appearance of a decorated villa, rather than
that of a house of public resort. On its green sloping
lawn are large fragments of rock, which long since
have fallen from the impending precipice. The grounds
THE UNDERCLIFF. 125
are kept in beautiful order, and are enriched with flower-
beds, and with choice creepers clinging to the rocks.
The veranda in front of the house is supported by ten
rustic pillars, entwined by twisted branches of ivy over-
running the top, affording to the visitors a delightful
shelter from the rays of a mid-day sun, and where may be
enjoyed to perfection the sea-breeze in the open air.
Proceeding, we come to a branch of the road on the
left, which leads by Buddie Farm, to the new houses
called St. Catherine's Place, and to the Lighthouse,
where, near the latter, is the Old Farm of Knowles.
The main road ascends towards Mount Cleves, a modern
built house, the villa of John Mortimer, Esq., and thence
continues to Black Gang Chine Hotel, which is situated
near the summit of the Chine.
Previous to pursuing our main route, we advise all
travellers on reaching this spot to avail themselves of the
Opportunity of enjoying the gratification of a visit to —
The Light-house near JSTiton,
A very handsome and conspicuous object, presenting
the appearance of a lofty column. From the gallery of its
lantern may be seen a magnificent view of the bold scenery
near Bocken End, comprising the termination of the
Undercliff in this direction, and especially while looking
towards Gore Cliff. It was built from the designs of
Messrs. Walker and Burgess, of London, and was com-
menced in 1838, completed in 1840, and lighted on the
first of March in that year. Its height is 100 feet from the
126 THE UNDERCLIFF.
surface of the ground, the lantern being nearly thirty feet
more, and its foundation (which is formed of solid masonry)
twenty-seven feet below the surface of the huge rocks on
which it is built. The diameter of its foundation is thirty
feet, and every precaution has been adopted to secure its
stability. It is cased with Portland and Purbeck stone,
and the turret which surmounts it is formed of Cornish
granite. The burners consist of four concentric wicks,
surrounded by six refractors on Sir David Brewster's
principle, 228 glass mirrors, and at the back, four spherical
reflectors. The Trinity Board having spared no expense
in adopting the most scientific principles in its formation,
it may be considered as one of the most perfect Lights on
the coast.
The great importance of it in this dangerous place
may be estimated from the fact, that since its erection,
no loss of shipping has occurred during the night;
whereas, in former years, every winter produced its dis-
asters, no less than fourteen vessels have been known to be
wrecked in one night in Chale Bay. This Light has been
plainly seen at sea to the extent of thirty miles. The
visitor will be agreeably surprised at the remarkable echo
in the interior of the tower, while ascending its spiral
staircase to the top.
By express directions from the Trinity Board, the
public are admitted freely to inspect it, and no one will
regret a trifling donation to the Light Keepers, where so
much civility is shown and such gratification afforded.
Rocken End is a dangerous reef of rocks in the vicinity
of the Light House, and stretches from the shore far into
THE UNDERCLIFF. 127
the sea. It consists of vast masses of rock which have
probably lain there ever since the mighty disruptions
which have severed them from the land at the time of the
formation of the Undercliff.
Returning from the Light House, we retrace our
steps, and ascend the high road leading towards Mount
Cleves, and here we approach that mighty scene of devas-
tation—
The Gkeat Landslip at Rocken End.
The stern character of desolation at this spot impresses
the mind with wonder, while contemplating the vast ruin
spread around. In the month of February, 1799, during
a hard frost, a tract of land constituting a farm called
Pitland's, separated itself from the line of coast, and
descended towards the sea. The portion thus removed
amounted to about 100 acres. Its movement was observed
in its progress for two successive days, proceeding nearly
in a direct line towards the beach. Curious changes
took place on the surface of the travelling farm — trees
and rocks shifting their position, exhibiting a picture of
wild confusion, while in several places the earth sank as
much as thirty feet below its former level, and a cottage
which had been tastefully fitted up, was thrown down and
buried in the fissures. The savage appearance of this
Landslip differs from that at East End, near Bonchurch,
and partakes in its features (like Black Gang) more of
the sublime and awful — there is scarcely any vegetation
to soften its severe aspect, whereas that of East End is
128 THE UNDERCLIFF.
intermingled with foliage, and its fallen fragments adorned
with ivy, holly, and various evergreens.
We conclude our account of this extraordinary spot
with the following extract from Mr. Roscoe's Isle of
Wight: —
" A scene of wild yet picturesque desolation, as if the
Titans or other old giants of the earth had been playing
at football, knocked everything out of its place, and then
mingled all together in sportive play, leaving the whole
just as we see it— 'a mighty mass in dread disorder
hurled.' "
A stroll down the Landslip, amongst the gigantic frag-
ments, if time allow it, will afford the tourist considerable
gratification. It may be reached by a road leading down
to a villa built in the Italian style, with a small turret,
called " South Sea House." Descending this road, and
passing a stile or two made in the walls on the declivity,
the footpath may be easily traced. A picturesque water-
fall is seen gushing from the cliff, and its stream hurrying
amongst the fallen rocks towards the sea. In the distance
below, towards the west, appears a handsome marine
villa, and directly beyond the remote dark sea-cliff, is the
mouth of the celebrated ravine, Black Gang Chine.
The Sandrock Chalybeate Spring is situated on the
precipitous descent of the cliff, representing a Hermit's
cell. The Dispensary Cottage attached to it, we pass on
the road. The spring was discovered in 1809, by Mr.
Waterworth, a surgeon of Newport. It is a tonic of the
most powerful kind, and has been found singularly effica-
cious in the cure of indigestion, nervous affections, and
general debility. For more particular information on the
BLACK GANG CHINE. 129
properties of this water, the reader is referred to a letter
by the discoverer, and to the " Report" of Dr. Lempriere.
Proceeding about another half mile, we arrive at Black
Gang Hotel, where a welcome repast awaits us previously
to visiting the Chine.
Black Gang Chine.
A mighty waste, repulsive and severe
Through all the various changes of the year ;
But doubly awful when the wintry gale
Drives the huge billows o'er the rocks of Chale —
Those fatal rocks, whose iron-girdled forms
Have mark'd the fury of a thousand storms,
And, midst the wildness of conflicting waves,
HwTd countless victims to their wat'ry graves !
An earth of leaden hue pervades the Chine,
Its rocks on tiers of dusky clay recline;
Huge belts of stone the murky heights surround,
And on each zone embedded earths abound ;
The girdled cliffs at sea loom large and high,
Like steps colossal leading to the sky,
Resting their bulk upon the steeps below,
Where scarce a blade of grass is seen to grow ;
Stern in their aspect — threatening in their brow.
A gloomy cavern yawns upon the shore,
Where hollow sounds presage in sullen roar
The storm's approach, — and from that dismal cell
Arise the echoes of " the last farewell" —
Despair's dread cry of mental agony,
Blent with the thunders of the raging sea!
f3
130 BLACK GANG CHINE.
This Chine, though it does not, like Shanklin, present
those features of natural scenery which at once charm as
well as surprise the spectator, yet it is not less deserving
of notice as an object of picturesque sublimity. In its
general character, Black Gang Chine forms a striking con-
trast to that of Shanklin ; for the rocks here, instead of
being clothed with rich and beautiful foliage, and flowers
of varied hues, exhibit to the eye of the observer their
naked surface, as they tower in gloomy grandeur toward
the sky.
The Chine of Blackgang terminates toward the west
that tract of coast called " the Undercliff," and consists of
an irregular opening, or vast fissure in the side of St.
Catherine's Hill, the most considerable eminence in the
southern part of the island.
No vegetation appears on the surface of this rude and
dreary glen, whose flanks are continually undergoing de-
gradation and decay. They are chiefly composed of very
dark blue clay, through which extend at intervals hori-
zontal strata of yellow sand-stone, from twelve to fifteen
feet in thickness, which split naturally into cubical blocks,
giving the front of the rocky barrier the appearance of
vast courses of masonry, built at certain heights, to sus-
tain the fabric of the mouldering hill.
On descending to the shore, we may perceive that a
stratum of iron-stone forms a cornice on the sea- cliff, from
the edge of which the stream of water falls vertically about
seventy feet. As the substratum of the rocky barrier is
of a softer material than iron-stone, consisting of black in-
durated clay, the continual action of the descending stream
BLACK GANG CHINE. 131
has scooped in it a hollow recess forming the cavern on the
beach, the sides of which shine faintly, from damp, and
are tinged of a deep green by aquatic lichens, or stained
by ferruginous exudations, owing to the gradual decom-
position of the iron-stone.
The silver thread of water falling over the cavern on
the beach is sometimes twisted into fantastic curves by the
eddying breeze, borne aloft through the air, and then dis-
sipated in misty spray. The stream, however, presents a
variety of interesting aspects, as beheld from different
points, and under different circumstances. After sudden
heavy rains, or the melting of snow, the quantity of water
is vastly augmented, and the usually insignificant rill be-
comes for a time a mighty cataract, the appearance of
which will clearly indicate the powerful effect it may pro-
duce on the rocks among which it takes its course. Occa-
sionally, when a south wind causes a heavy swell on the
shore, the echoing sound of the lashing billows, reverbe-
rated from the gloomy cave behind the falling water of
the mountain stream, has a truly awful effect, like a
chorus of bellowing monsters of the deep issuing from the
obscure profound of the mysterious recess.
The impression on the mind produced by viewing this
place arises from a combination of circumstances. The
rushing sound of the waves, echoed and re-echoed from
the wall of irregular rock -work — the apparent insecurity
of the blocks and boulders— the gloomy aspect of the
gaping Chine, and its dreary cave — altogether cause sen-
sations more easily conceived than described.
The coast of this part of the island has too often been
132 BLACK GANG CHINE.
the scene of wreck and ruin to the mariner. One of the
latest events of this kind was the destruction of the
Clarendon, which took place in October, 1836, and in
consequence of it the New Light House, near Niton, was
erected, since which no wreck has taken place in the night,
at this spot.
This vessel was a West Indiaman of 345 tons burthen,
which sailed from Basseterre Road, in the island of St.
Kitt's, on the 27th of August, in the above year, under
the command of Captain Samuel Walker, with a lading of
sugar, rum, turtle, and other produce of the West Indies.
The crew, including the officers, consisted of sixteen men,
and there were on board the vessel the following pas-
sengers : — Lieutenant Shore, of the 14th regiment of
foot, his wife, and four daughters, the youngest an infant ';
Walter Pemberton, Esq., a planter of St. Kitt's, and his
daughter ; Miss Gourlay, (the daughter of Captain Gour-
lay, R.N., of Southsea ;) Mr. Sheppard, a planter ; and a
corporal of the 14th, the servant of Mr. Shore. The
passage homeward was rather stormy; but the ship
arrived in sight of the Scilly Islands in safety, on the
9th of October, and proceeded onward up the English
Channel.
Circumstances appeared favourable till the night of
Monday, the 10th of October, when a heavy gale came
on, attended with extreme darkness ; and with the first
dawn of daylight, the crew, to their utter dismay, per-
ceived land right ahead, towards which the ship wTas
rapidly driving. This was the coast in front of Black
Gang Chine, at the southern extremity of Chale Bay.
BLACK GANG CHINE. 133
Although aware of their danger, there was no confusion
among the sailors, but all did their duty with alacrity,
and a press of sail was carried, to work off the shore ;
but the sea ran so high, and the in-set of the flood was so
strong, that the ship " went bodily leeward," though the
master, 'til the last extremity, exerted himself to the
utmost, in the hope of keeping clear of the shore.
The vessel was not more than double her own length
from the beach, when she touched the shingle twice,
though not heavily ; and at each shock were heard, amidst
the howlings of the storm, the despairing shrieks of the
people on board.
On beam-ends thrown — the breakers on her lee,
She lies the victim of the tearing sea.
And now the madd'ning waters hold their sway,
Tow'ring above in overwhelming spray,
Like fountains rising in triumphant play.
A giant surge comes rolling o'er the main,
Strikes her dark hull, and splits the ship in twain;
With sudden crash her frame and deck divide,
Her pent-up cargo bursts upon the tide.
Masts, blocks, and spars are dash'd the rocks among,
And o'er the beach in wild disorder flung.
The tide receding from the peopled strand,
Now strewn with weeds and heaps of driven sand,
Leaves it, alas ! with ruin overspread,
And here and there the bodies of the dead,-—
Leaves them, though rescued from devouring waves,
To be the tenants of unthought-of graves.
134 BLACK GANG CHINE.
All on board were lost, except the second mate and two
sailors, who, having jumped overboard just before the ship
parted, were washed on shore, and saved by the spirited
efforts of those persons who had repaired to the beach to
perform the hazardous duties of humanity. The bodies of
the passengers and seamen, who had been involved in one
common ruin, were found on the shore, in the course of a
day or two after the shipwreck. Those of the crew were
buried together in a large grave, in the village cemetery
of Chale, the large mound of which still remains ; and a
vault was opened at the south-east end of the churchyard
belonging to the parish of Newport, in which, on the 13th
of October, were solemnly interred the mortal remains of
the unfortunate Lieutenant Shore and his family. The
bodies of Captain Walker, Mr.Pemberton and his daughter,
and Mr. Sheppard, were entombed in the churchyard of
Chale. The corpse of Miss Gourlay was carried to a
distance from the scene of the wreck, and at length thrown
on the coast at Southsea, near Portsmouth, (an extraordi-
nary circumstance,) opposite to a cottage, the residence of
her father, Captain Gourlay, of the Royal Navy.
From the summit of Black Gang, a fine coast view is
commanded towards the west, where Freshwater Cliffs
are seen to rise in the most stately grandeur, about 700
feet above the sea. At the extremity of these magnificent
chalky heights, are situated the Needles, although not
visible from hence, being hidden by the lofty cliffs. To
enjoy a view of the superb scenery of that locality, every
tourist is earnestly recommended to make a steam-voyage
round the Island, if it were only to view the Needles and
FRESHWATER CLIFFS. 135
Alum Bay from the sea, which indeed will impress the
mind with a higher degree of grandeur than any other
part of the Island. The Needles' Rocks, which are seen
isolated in the Bay, resembling the " gigantic grinders of
a stupendous jaw," are perfectly white, their summits
covered with aquatic birds, and their dark weedy bases
dashed by the driving waves; whilst in rounding the
Needles' Point from the open sea, Alum Bay is seen im-
mediately to adjoin the stupendous white cliffs of the
Needles, and presents to the eye a most extraordinary-
scene —
Where Alum's Cliffs, in beauteous glow,
Their various hues display, —
Red, blue, and green, and yellow show
Their tints amongst the clay.
At times so richly bright and fair,
In all their silky dyes, —
'Twas Iris surely planted there
Her colours from the skies !*
Another good view of the Needles is obtained from the
elevated point of the Down, just beyond Freshwater
Light House, but from thence they become more distant,
and their position more foreshortened. That spot is,
however, well worth visiting, as Scratchell's Bay, and
its magnificent Arched Alcove, are seen from it to great
advantage.
* These cliffs have been compared by Sir Henry Englefield to
" the upright stripes on the petal of a tulip." They may perhaps
be better described as being seen through the prismatic colours
of the rainbow.
INDEX.
PAGE
Adams, Rev. W., author of " The Shadow of the
Cross," "The Old Man's Home," &c 28
Ammonite, beak of, (unique,) found at Pulpit Rock . 16
Appuldurcombe Park and Mansion 73
j collection of pictures at .... 76
Archway at Pulpit Rock, a singular specimen of
Nature's masonry 17
Beauchamp 122
Bembridge Church 85
Down, and singular occurrence at . . . 84
Black Gang Chine 129
Blue Slipper, cause of Landslips, described . . . 66
Bonchurch 5, 93
, Air and Climate of 8, 12
view of it from Pulpit Rock 19
ditto from Ribbands' Hotel 93
Down, its ascent, and advice in ascending
it 24
, altitude of 15
138 INDEX.
PAGE
Bonchurch, Yale of 6
Old Church, and the ancient frescoes re-
cently discovered on its walls . . . 26, 27
New Church, lately erected 25
Pond 29
Shute 26, 95
Shore, and waterfall on the beach ... 31
, facility of bathing at 31
Brading Church 87
Haven 89
New Vicarage House — (note.) 88
Carriage-way from Shanklin to Bonchurch ... 91
Cinerary urns, found at Mountfield 23
Clarendon, the, wreck of 132
Cliff Den, Bonchurch — Lady Hampson . . . 20, 94
Cook's Castle 60, 67
Cottage of the Hon, Captain Dudley Pelham . . .111
Cripple Path — splendid view from it described . .120
Culver Cliffs 48, 61, 92
Dairyman's Daughter (Elizabeth Wallbridge) . . 89
Dunnose 47, 83
East Dene, Bonchurch, and its valuable antique
furniture 20, 29
Epitaph on Mrs. Berry 87
on the Dairyman's Daughter, by the Rev.
Legh Richmond 89
VPB
INDEX. 139
PAGE
Fossils, choice collection of, at Mountfield, Bon-
church 22
Fisher's Home, the 123
GoDSHILL 78
, monuments of the Worsley family at . . 78
Glow-worms, myriads of, at Bonchurch and the
Underclhf— (note.) 22, 19
Great Landslip at Rocken End, near Black Gang . 127
Hobson, Admiral, singular instance of heroism . . 95
Honeymoon Cottage 55
Horseshoe Bay, Bonchurch 31
Landslip at East End 61
Poem on ditto 68
great ditto, near Black Gang 127
Landslips still occurring 67
Lighthouse at Niton 125
La Rosiere 124
Luccombe Chine 63
Cottage 63
Marine Villa of the Earl of Yarborough . . . .112
Mill Bay, Ventnor 106
Mirables 118
Mount Cleves 125
Mountfield, Bonchurch, S. M. Saxby, Esq. . . 19, 23
140 INDEX.
PAGE
Mountfield, rare collection of Fossils at .... 22
, Cinerary urns found at 23
Newfoundland Dogs, Bonchurch, moulded after
Landseer's picture . 18
North America, a spot so called 59
Obelisk on Bembridge Down, to the memory of the
late Earl of Yarborough 84
in commemoration of Sir Richard Worsley,
at Appuldurcombe 77
Old Oak Tree, Shanklin Chine 55
Old Park 118
Orchard, the, Seat of Sir Willoughby Gordon,
Bart 121
Orchard Leigh, Bonchurch . 21
Pond at Bonchurch, described 29
Puck aster Cottage, Mrs. Vine 122
Cove 123
Pulpit Rock, view from it described ...... 13
, grounds of 15
Red Deer, in former times, tenanted the Undercliff 67
Ribbands' Hotel, Bonchurch 20
Richmond, Rev. Legh 88
Rocken End 126
Rose Cliff, Luccombe 63
INDEX. 141
PAGE
Rosemount, Bonchurch ........... 19
Sandown 79
Bay 51, 79, 84
-* -Church 79
Fort 80
, Wilkes's Cottage 80
Sandrock Chalybeate Spring 128
Hotel . . 124
Shanklin, Village of 45
Chine 51
, head of 54
Cascade 56
Parsonage 58, 91
Church 46, 91
Houses on the Beach 47
Manor House, now a farm 50
Down 51
, Carriage-way from Bonchurch to . . . 91
, " Summer's Day" at 35
as described by the Rev. Legh Richmond 56
Skeleton of a female, with an ancient armlet, found
at Ventnor 66
Skeletons, gigantic, found at Brading 86
St. Boniface Cottage, now called St. Boniface House, 31
Bonchurch Down • 94, 106
Steephill Castle 108
St. Lawrence Village 113
-Well Ill
142 INDEX.
PAGB
St. Lawrence Church 114
Summer's Day at Shanklin 35
Tomb of the Kev. W. Adams, at Bonchurch ... 28
Tower Cottage, Shanklin Chine 55
Ventnor 99
Church 101
Cove 104
Esplanade 104
Victoria Baths for sea-bathing, near Puckaster
Cove 124
Undercliff 116
Boarding House and Victoria Baths . 124
Undermount Villa— H. Gould, Esq 20
Rock 20
Under-Rock Villa— E. Peel, Esq 21
Uppermount — Villa of Samuel Dick, Esq. . . 19, 29
Waek from Shanklin to the Landslip at " East
End 61
Waterfall (newly formed) at Bonchurch . . . 7, 30
Ditto on the Beach at Bonchurch ... 31
Week Down 75
Western Lines 117
Westcliff Villa 124
Westfield — George Curtis, Esq. 21
INDEX. 143
PAGE
Wishing Well 108
Woodlynch — Rev. James White 21
Yarborough, late Earl of 75
Obelisk, erected to his memory . . 84
Yaverland — ancient Church of 80
Manor House * 83
THE END.
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