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NORTHERN FRANCE

FROM

BELGIUM AND THE ENGLISH CHANNEL TO THE LOIRE

EXCLUDING

PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS

JL

i_^:\

HANDBOOK FOli TRAVELLERS

BY

KARL BAEDEKER

THIRD EMTION

WITH 10 MAPS AND 34 PLANS

LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLLSHER

LONDON: DULAU AND CO ^ 3^7 SOHO SQUARE, W.

1899

All rights reserved

B^p

'Go, little booli, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere :
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all!'

^Ul ; A ttfi"^

PREFACE.

The chief object of the Hjindbook for Northern France,
which now appears for the third time and corresponds with
the sixth French edition, is to render the traveller as nearly
as possible independent of the services of guides, commission-
naires, and innkeepers, and to enable him to employ his time
and his money to the best advantage.

Like the Editor's other Handbooks, it is based on personal
acquaintance with the country described, a great part of
which has been repeatedly explored with the view of assuring
accuracy and freshness of information. The Editor begs to
tender his grateful acknowledgments to travellers who have
sent him information for the benefit of the Handbook, and
hopes they will continue to favour him with such communi-
cations, especially when the result of their own experience.

On the Mi\ps and Plans the utmost care has been bestow-
ed, and it is hoped that they will often be of material service
to the traveller, enabling him at a glance to ascertain his
bearings and select the best routes.

A short account of the ordinary approaches to Northern
France for English and American travellers will be found in
the Introduction.

Heights and Distances are given in English measure-
ment. It may, however, be convenient to remember that ->
1 kilometre is approximately equal to Vg Engl. M., or 8 kil^./^^
= 5 M. (nearly). See also p. xxiii. //

In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-class hotels ---,
and those of humbler pretension. The latter may often be ' /^ -
selected by the 'voyageur en garcon' with little sacrifice of
real comfort, and considerable saving of expenditure. Those
which the Editor believes to be, most worthy of commenda-
tion, are denoted by asterisks ; but doubtless there are many
of equal excellence among those not so distinguished. It
should, however, be borne in mind that hotels are liable to

vi PREFACE.

constant changes, and that the treatment experienced by the
traveller often depends on circumstances which can neither
be foreseen nor controlled. Although prices generally have
an upward tendency, the average charges stated in the Hand-
book will enable the traveller to form a fair estimate of his
expenditure.

To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour-
tesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his com-
mendation, and that advertisements of every form are strictly
excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel - keepers are also
warned against persons representing themselves as agents
for Baedeker's Handbooks.

Abbreviations.

11. = Room, Route. M. = Kngl. milo.

A. = Attendance. ft. = Kngl. foot.
L. = Light. hr. = liour.

B. = Breakfast. niin. = minute.
S. = Supper. fr. = franc.
Dcj. = Dojcuner, Luncheon. c. = centime.
Pens. = Pension,t.e.boardrt«d lodging. | Jl = Mark.

N. = North, Northern, etc. ; pf. = Pfennig.

S. = South, etc. I omu. = omnibus.

E. = East, etc. carr. = carriage.

W. = Wes% etc. | comp. = compare

The letter d with a date, after the name of a per.'^on, indicates the year
of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place .^hows
its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before tlie
principal places on railway-routes and highroads iienerally indicates thoir
distance from the starting-point of the route.

AsteriskiB are used as marks of commendation.

1 G

CONTENTS,

Introduction.

Page
I. Language. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Cus-
tom House. Octroi xi

II. Routes to Northern France xiii

III. Plan of Tour xiv

IV. Railways. Diligences xvi

V. Cycling xix

VI. Hotels, Restaurants, and Cafes xix

VII. Public Buildings and Collections xxi

VIII. Post and Telegraph Oflices xxii

IX. Weights and Measures xxiii

X. Historical Sketch xxiv

XI. Political Geography xxxii

XII. Maps xxxvi

Northern France.

I. To the North of the Seine and the Vosges.

Route

1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris 3

I. From Calais to Amiens G

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville G

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras 15

c. Via Anvin, St. Pol, Prevent, and Doullcns .... 22
II. From Amiens to Paris 24

a. Via Creil 24

b. Via Beauvais 25

2. Amiens 25

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mers) 31

I. From Paris to Beauvais 31

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont 31

b. Via Chantilly and Creil 32

II. From Beauvais to Le Tre'port 3G

4. From Dieppe to Paris 38

a. Via Rouen ... 41

I. From Dieppe to Rouen 41

11. From Rouen to Paris 41

h. Via Gisors and Pontoise 45

5. Rouen 48

6. From Le Havre to Paris via Rouen . . 60

7. Watering-Places between Dieppe and Le Havre .... 65

a. From Rouen (Paris) to St. Valery-en-Caux and to Veules 65

b. From Rouen (Paris) to Veulettes'. Les Petites Dalles . . 66

c. From Rouen (Paris) to Fecamp 67

d. From Rouen (Paris) to Etretat 69

^iii CONTENTS.

Page

lloute Yl

8. From Paris to Cambrai . „,

a Via Creil,- St. Quenlin, and Busigny

b. Via Creil, St. Just, and Peronne . . •

9. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes ... '4

10. From Arras (Paris) to Dunkirk . . ... • ^ • • • •

11. From Douai (Paris) and Valenciennes to Lille and Courtiai »0

I. From Douai to Lille . • gg

II. From Valenciennes to Lille ^^

III. From Lille to Courtrai go

-[0 lj]\\e

d'. From Calais to Chalons-sur-Marne (Bale) via Amiens, ^^

Laon, and Rheims ,;/■.■■

U. From Calais to Nancy (Strassburg) via Lille, Valenciennes, ^^

Hirson, and Longnyon ^ .^^

If). From Paris to Namur (Liege, Cologne) . . • ■ • ■ ■

a. Via St. Quentin and Maubeuge (Mons-Brussels) .... IW

h. Via Soissons, Laon, and Anor _ ...

c. Via Soissons, Rheims, and Mezieres ^^^

16. From Paris to Rheims ^^^

a. Via Meaux and La Ferte-Milon ^^^

b. Via Soissons ' ^7

c. Via Epernay jj^g

17. Rlieims ' " ^^2

18. From Paris to Metz . . • • • ^92

a. Via Chalons and Frouard ^24

b. Via Chalons and Verdun ^26

c. Via Rheims and Verdun • ■ • . • 127

d. Via Rheims and Meziere?-Charleville

19. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg) .... ^3^.

I. From Paris to Chalons-.sur-BIarne ^^^

II. From Chalons-pnr-Mame to ^ancy ^^^

20. Nancy

II. Between the Seine, the Loire, and the Atlantic.

21. From Paris to Cherbourg ^jj^.

22. Cacu l'-^o

2B. Watering-Places in Calvados . . ■ • • • • „ ; . '

a. Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer , Beuzeval-Houlgate, ^^_^

b. J^t^^^iLior,: Lnn,rune, St. A«bin-.nr- Mer . and ^^^

Coursculles ^-^g

24. From Cherbourg to Brest • ■ • ' ' I7q

25. From Paris to Granville • _ .on

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alen^.on. lalaise . .... |o.^

27. From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne .... i^j

28. From Paris to Rennes (Brest) ^"^,4

I. From Paris to Chartres ^gH

II. From Cliartres to Le Mans .^q^

III. From Le Mans to Rennes .-,~^.-)

29. From Rennes (Paris) to Brest . . • • • • • • ■ ■ ^ ~

no. From Rennes to St. Malo. Excursions from St. Malo. Mont ^^ _^ ^

St. Michel. Dinan. . .

CONTENTS. ix

Roule Page

a. From Rennes to St. Mulo 222

1). Environs of St. Malo. St. Servan.Paraine. Dinard. St. Euo-

gat. St. Lunaire. St. Briac 225

c. Excursions from St. Malo. Cancale. Mont St. Michel, Dinan 226

?d. li^rom Paris to Nantes 232

a. Via Le Mans and Angers 232

b. Via Sablt^ and Segrd (St. Nazaire, Lorient, Quiniper) . . 234

c. Via Orleans and Tours 235

32. Angers 238

33. Nantes 245

34. From Nantes to Brest 253

I. From Nantes to Vannes and Auray 253

II. From Aurav to Lovieut and Quiniper 258

III. From Qiiim'pcr to Brest 262

35. From Paris to Tours 262

a. Viil Orleans and Blois . 262

I. From Paris to Orleans 262

II. From Orleans to Tours 265

b. Via Vendome 267

36. Orleans 270

37. Blois 275

38. Tours 279

III. District between Paris, the Vosges, the Jura, and the Loire.

39. From Paris to Troyes and Belfort 291

I. From Paris to Troves 291

II. From Troyes to Belfort 300

40. iM-om Paris to JEpiual (Vosges) 307

a. Via Bk'sme, Bologne, Neufchateau, and 3Iirecourt 307

b. Via Bar-le-l>uc, Neufcliateau, and Mirecourt 30S

c. Via Pagny-sur-Meuse, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt . , . 309

d. Via Toul and Mirecourt 310

e. Via Nancy and Blainville-la-Grande 310

f. Via Chaumont, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt 310

g. Via Jussey and Darnieulles 312

41. From Nancy to Dijon 314

a. Via Toul, Neuldiateau, and Chalindrey 314

b. Via Mirecourt and Chalindrey 315

c. Via Epinal, Vesou], and Gray 317

42. From Epinal to Belfort. Plombieres 318

43. From Belfort to Strassburg 322

44. From Nancy to Strassburg 324

45. From Lune'ville to St. Die' and Epinal .327

46. Excursions into the Vosges from St. Die 329

a. To Strassburg via Saales 329

b. To Schlettstadt via Markirch 331

c. To Colmar via Fraize and the Col du Bonhomme . . . 332

47. Excursions into the Vosges from Epinal 333

a. To the Schlucht via Gerardmer 333

b. To Colmar via the Schlucht and Miinster 339

c. To Miilhausen via Bussang and Wesserling 340

d. To Miilhausen via Cornimont and Wesserling .... 342
c. To Belfort via the Walschc Belchen 344

48. From Belfort (Strassburg) to Dijon 346

a. Via Montbeliard and-Besancon 346

b. Via Vesoul and Besancon ". 347

X MAPS AND PLANS.

Route oFq

49. Besano,on ™

50. From Besan^on to Neucliatel ^0^

51. From Besanr.on (Belfort) to Bourg (Lyons) ^5b

52. From Paris to Dijon ^^^

a. By tlie direct line • 9.^;^

b. Via Troyes and Cliatillon-sur-Seine ^^oi

53. Dijon 5^5

54. From Dijon to Neuchatel and to Lausanne * q^a

55. Le Morvan. Auxerre. Autun ; • • " o^n

a. From Laroche (Sens) to Auxerre(Autun) and Severs . . ^u

b. From Auxerre to Autun via Avallon . •.•;•,.• ; • ^^

c. From Clamecy (Auxerre) to Paray-le-Momal (Moulms) . ^b

56. From Dijon to Nevers ^°^(

a. Via Chagny, Montclianin, and Le Creusot oo'

b. Via Chagny and Autun : • ■• ■ J^^V

57. From Paris to Nevers .: ^^'^

a. Via Fontainebleau and Slontargis (Railway to Lyons via

the Bourbonnais) oqq

b. Via Corbeil and Montargis ^^

c. Via (Orleans and Bourges ^

Index ^0^

Maps.

1 Map of Xorlh-Emiern France, before the title-page.
2! The ^eine, from l^ont de TArche to Le Havre, p. 5
3. The Environs of Paris, p. 100.

^. The Valley of the Mt-use, p. 111. „ ,. . , ^ , 000

5. St. Mala and its JJnvirons, from St. Bnac to Cancalc, p. ^2^.

G. The Ranee, from Dinan to St. Malo, p. 222

7 The Central Vosges Mis., from the Schneeberg to the (.ol dvi B.nilu.mme,

p. 328.
8. The Southern Vosges Mis., from Fraize to Giromagny, p
9 Map of Norih-Western France, after the Index.
10. Roilwav Map of France, at the end of the book.

334.

Plans of Towns.

Page
24
238
391

12.

1. Amiens ■ .

2. Angers . ■

3. Autun 391 13.

4. Bar-le-Dtu- ... 143; 14.

5. DesaiHoii. ■ ■ ■ 348^15.

6. Bids 275 16.

7. Boulogne- siir - 17.
Mer. 6 18.

8. Bourges .... 401119.

9. Brest 219 20.

10. Caen 166 21.

11. Calais 422.

Chalons - sur
Marne .
Chartres
Cherbourg
Dieppe
Dijon
Dinan
Epinal.
Laon .
Le Havre
Le Mans
Lille. .

Page

123. Nmicij .

140 24. Xantes .

195 25. Xevers .

162i26. OrUans

38 27. Paris .

36-^28. Bennea.

222 29. Rheims

;51'2 30. Rouen .

108 31. St. Malo

60,32. St. Quenti

. 200133. Tonrs

S8 34. Troijes

Page
146
245
404
270
1
2t«
118
48
322
104
279
295

INTRODUCTION.

I. Language. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports.
Custom House. Octroi.

Language. A sliglit acquaintance with French is indispensahle
for those who desire to explore the more remote districts of Northern
France, but tourists who do not deviate from the beaten track -will
generally find English spoken at the principal hotels and the usual
resorts of strangers. If, however, they are entirely ignorant of the
French language , they must be prepared occasionally to submit to
the extortions practised by porters, cab-drivers, and others of a like
class, which even the data furnished by the Handbook will not
always enable them to avoid.

Money. The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely
convenient in keeping accounts. The Banque de France issues
Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and 50 francs, and these
are the only banknotes current in the country. The French Gold
coins are of the value of 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 francs ; Silvercoiixs
of 5, 2, 1, 1/2^ and 1/5 franc; Bronze of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centime
(100 centimes = 1 franc). '/Sow' is the old name, still in common
use, for 5 centimes ; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes called 'une
piece de cent sous', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, 1/2 fr. =
10 sous. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek gold coins are received
at their full value, and the Austrian gold pieces of 4 and 8 florins
are worth exactly 10 and 20 fr. respectively. Belgian, Swiss, and
Greek silver coins (except Swiss coins with the seated figure of
Helvetia) are also current at full value; but Italian silver coins,
Avith the exception of the 5-lira pieces, should be refused. The only
foreign copper coins current in France are those of Italy and occa-
sionally the English penny and halfpenny, which nearly correspond
to the 10 and 5 centime piece respectively.

English banknotes and gold are also generally received at the
full value in the larger towns, except at the shops of the money-
changers, where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the begin-
ning of the book shows the comparative value of the French, English,
American, and German currencies, when at par. Circular Notes or
Letters of Credit, obtainable at the principal English and American

xii T. EXPENSES, SEASON, etc.

banks, are the most convenient form for tlie transport of large sums;
and their value, if lost or stolen, is recoverable.

The traveller should always be provided with small change
(petite monnaie), as otherwise he may be put to inconvenience in
giving gratuities, purchasing catalogues, etc.

Expenses. The expense of a tour in Northern France depends of
course on the tastes and habits of the traveller ; but it may be stated
generally that travelling in France is not more expensive than in
most other countries of Europe. The pedestrian of moderate require-
ments, who is tolerably proficient in the language and avoids the
beaten track as much as possible, may limit his expenditure to
10-12 fr. per diem, while those who prefer driving to walking, choose
the dearest hotels, and employ the services of guides and commis-
sionnaires must be prepared to spend at least 20-30 fr. daily. Two
or three gentlemen travelling together will be able to journey more
economically than a solitary tourist, but the presence of ladies
generally adds considerably to the expenses of the party.

Season. Most of the districts described in this Handbook may
be visited at any part of the year, but winter is, of course, the least
pleasant season, while spring and autumn are on the whole prefer-
able to summer, especially when a large proportion of the tra-
veller's time is spent in the cities and larger towns. The bathing-
season at the watering-places on the N. coast generally lasts from
June to September. Excursions in the elevated region of the
Vosges are not possible, or at least pleasant, except in summer.

Passpokts are now dispensed with in France, but they are often
useful in proving the traveller's identity, procuring admission to
museums on days when they are not open to the public, obtaining
delivery of registered letters, etc. Pedestrians in a remote district
will often find that a passport spares them much inconvenience
and delay.

Foreign Office passports may be obtained through C. Smith and Sons,
63 Charing Cross; Bnss, 440 West Strand; E. Stanford, 26 Cockspur St.,
Charing Cross ; or W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet St. (charge 2s. ; agent's foe is. 6d.).

Sketching, photographing, or making notes near fortified places
sometimes exposes innocent travellers to disagreeable suspicions or
worse, and should therefore be avoided.

Custom House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de-
tention at the 'douane' or custom-house, travellers are strongly re-
commended to avoid carrying with them any articles that are not
absolutely necessary. Cigars, tobacco, and matches are chiefly sought
for by the custom-house officers. The duty on cigars amounts to
about 13s., on toba'-co to6-10s. per lb. Articles liable to duty should
always be 'declared'. Books and newspapers occasionally give rise to
suspicion and may in certain cases be confiscated. The examination
of luggage generally takes place at the frontier-stations, and travellers

II. ROUTES TO NORTHERN FRANCE, xiii

should superintend it in person. Luggage registered to Paris is
examined on arrival there.

Octroi. At the entrance to the larger towns an 'Octroi', or muni-
cipal tax, is levied on all comestibles, but travellers' luggage is usu-
ally passed on a simple declaration that it contains no such articles.
The officials are, however, entitled to see the receipts for articles
liable to duty at the frontier.

II. Routes to Northern France.

The quickest and easiest routes from England to Northern Franco
are offered by the express through-services from London to Paris
(see below). The stearcfers on the other routes, which are on the
whole cheaper and may be more convenient for some travellers,
will generally be found fairly comfortable. Particulars as to the days
and hours of starting, which are liable to vary, may be found in
Bradshaw's Continental Railway Quide (monthly; 2s.). Most vis-
itors to France from the United States will probably travel via Eng-
land, but those who prefer to proceed direct have opportunities by
the weekly steamers of the Compagnie Oenerale Transatlantique from
New York to Le Havre, the weekly steamers of the Hamburg- American
Line from New York to Cherbourg, the monthly steamers of the Char-
geurs Reunis from New Orleans to Le Havre, etc.

a. Express Routes from London to Paris.

Via Dover and Calais. Express thrice daily, starting from Chariug
Cross, Cannon Street, Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and St. Paul's stations,
in TV2-IO lirs. •, fares 2l. 16s. lid., il. 19s. 8d., and U. bs. Qd. (3rd cl. by
night service only), return-tickets, valid for one month, 4Z. 14s. 9d., 3^.
9s. lOd., and 2l. — From London to Calais, 3-4 hrs., fares il. 10s. 2c?., 1^
Is. Id., 14s. 6d. — From Dover to Calais, IV4-IV4 lir., fares 10s., ^s.

Via Folkestone and Boulogne. Express twice daily from Charing
Cross and Cannon St. stations, in 8-10 hrs., fares 11. 12s., il. 16s., and il.
Is. 9d. (3rd cl. by afternoon service only), return-tickets, valid for a month,
il. 9s. 9(?., 3;;. 5s. 8<?., il. ITs. 6d. — From London to Boulogne, 3^/-2-iy2hvs.,
fares 1^ 13s. 6rf., il. 0$. iOd., 12s. Qd. — From Folkestone to Boulogne, IV2-
2 hrs., fares Ss., 6s.

Via Newhaven and Dieppe. Express twice daily from Victoria and
London Bridge stations in 9-10 hrs.; fares 34s. Id., 25«. Id., 18s. Id. (3rd
cl. by night service only), return-tickets, valid for a month, 21. 18s. 3d.,
21. 2s. 3d., il. i3s. Bd. — From London to Dieppe, 5V2-6'/2 hrs., fares 1^. 4s.
Id., ITs. id., 15s. ^d. — From Newhaven to Dieppe, 31/2-41/2 hrs., fares 14s.
Id., lis. id.

Via Southampton and Le Havre. Express from Waterloo station
(daily, except Sun.), in 121/2-14 hrs., fares il. 13s. lOrf., il. 4s. 10<f. (no 3rd
cl.), return -tickets, valid for a month, 21. 16s. %d., 2l. Os. 8(f. — From
London to Le Havre, 10-12 hrs., il. 8s. 4c?., il. Os. 10c?. — From Southampton
to Le Havre, 7-8 hrs., fares 235., ITs.

b. Other Koutes.

From Newhaven to Caen via Guistkeham, steamer thrice weekly iu
7 hrs. ; fares about 15s. Qd., 8s. 6c?. — From London to Caen, lli/2-12i/-.' hrs.,
lares 25s., 2ls., 13s., return-ticket 3?s., 32s., 20b.

xiv III. PLAN OF TOUR

Fkom Southampton to St. Malo, steamer every Men., Wed., & Frirt.
in 12 hrs. ; returning every Men., Wed., & Frid. Fares 23s., 17s., return-
tickets, valid for tvi^o months, 35s., 25s. Fares from London to St. Malo,
35s., 25s., return- tickets 525., 39s. iod.

Fkom Southampton to Cheeboueg, every Tues., Thurs., & Sat., in 7 hrs.,
returning every Mon., Wed., & Frid. Fares 20s., 14s., return-tickets, valid
for two months, 33s., 23s. ,- from London to Cherbourg, 29s. 6d., 20s., return-
tickets 45s., 30s.

From Jkesey to St. Malo (3 hrs.), every Mon. & Thurs. (returning
every Tues. & Frid.), and to Granville (21/2 hrs.), every Wed. & Sat.
(returning every Mon. & Thurs.). Fares in each case 8s., 5s., return-tickets,
valid for a month, 12s., 7s. M.; from London to Granville 35s., 25s..
return-tickets 52s., 39s. Qd. The Channel Islands (Jersey) are reached by
daily steamer from Southampton or from Weymouth.

From London to Boulogne direct. Bennett Steamship Co.. thrice
weekly in 9-10 hrs. (6 hra.' river passage) ; fare 10s., return 17s.' %d. —
New Palace Steamers Co.., four times weekly va the season : return-fares
13s. 6(?., lis. U.

To Dunkirk. Steamers every few days from London (Wapping) in
10-12 hrs. (fare lOs., return 15s.); every week from Xe«7/t (25s., return 40s.)
and from Hull (about 24 hrs.); and every fortnight from Liverpool.

Steamers also sail at intervals of a week or longer from Liverpool to
Le Havre; from lAverpool to La Rochelle; from Goole to Boulogne; from
Leith to Calais; etc. (see 'Bradshaw').

m. Plan of Tour.

The traveller is strongly recommended to sketch out a plan
of his tour in advance , as this, even though not rigidly adhered
to, will be found of the greatest use in aiding him to regulate his
movements, to economise his time, and to guard against overlook-
ing any place of interest. English and American tourists are apt to
confine their interest in N. France to the districts through which
they are whirled by the express-trains from the N. seaports to Paris :
but the more leisurely traveller will find much to arrest his atten-
tion and employ his time pleasantly in various parts of the country
coming within the scope of this Handbook. Though N. France is
less richly gifted with natural beauty than those parts of the country
"which border on the Alps or the Pyrenees, it still affords much
attractive scenery in Normandy, Brittany, the valley of the Seine,
the Vosges, and the Ardennes. On the other hand it is extremely
rich in architectural monuments of the greatest importance, con-
taining an unparalleled series of magnificent Gothic churches at
Rouen., Amiens., Beauvais^ Caen, Chartres, Tours, Rheims, Bourges,
Orleans, Troyes, and Laon, while the Romanesque style is well illus-
trated in the abbey-churches of Caen and in many smaller examples.
The ancient Abbey of Mont St. Michel is, perhaps, the most pictur-
esque edifice in France, Among secular edifices may be mentioned
the magnificent Palais de Justice at Rouen, the Renaissance chateaux
of Blois and Chambord, the medic-eval castles of Pierrefonds, Coucy,
Chateau GaiUard, and Rambures , the mansion of Jacques Coeur at
Bourges, and the quaint old houses o( Lisieu.v, Rouen, etc. The art
collections of Lille are worthy of a great capital, and those of Douai,

111. PLAN OF TOUR. xv

Caen, Valenciennes, Rennes, Nantes, Dijon, and Besan^on are also
of considerable value. The busy commercial harbour of Le Havre
and the military ports of Cherbourg and Brest deserve a visit, while
Nancy, the ancient capital of Lorraine, has a special interest for the
historical student. Lastly, mention must be made of the imposing
antiquarian relics of Carnac.

The following short itineraries give an idea of the time required
for a visit to the most attractive points. Paris is taken as the starting-
point in each case, but the tourist starting from London will find no
difficulty in adapting the arrangement to his requirements by begin-
ning at the places most easily reached from England, An early start is
supposed to be made each morning, but no night-travelling is assumed.
The various tours given below are arranged so that they may be
combined into one comprehensive tour of two months (comp. Maps).
The tourist should carefully consult the railway time-tables in order
to guard against detention at uninteresting junctions.

a. A Week in Picardy and Artois. Days

From Paris to Beauvais and Amiens (RR. 3, 1, 2) i-l'/z

From Amiens to Arras and Douai (R. 9) 1

From Douai to Valenciennes and Lille (R. 1 1) Vh-2

From Lille to St. Omer and Calais (RR. U, 1) 1

From Calais to Boulogne and Abbeville (R. 1) 1

From Abbeville back to Paris (R. 1), or to Dieppe (R. 3) to

connect with the following tour 1

b. Three Weeks in Normandy and Brittany. Y)a\s
From Paris to Rouen (or from London to Dieppe and Rouen, R. 4)

and at Rouen (R. 5) V/2-S

From Rouen to Le ffavi'e (R. 6) 1

From Le Havre to Trouville by sea (R. (3) 1

From Trouville to Caen and at Caen (RR. 23, 22) 1-2

From Caen to Bayeux and Cherbourg (R. 21) l-l'/z

From Cherbourg to Coutances (R. 24) 1

From Coutances to Avranches and Granville (RR. 24, 25) .... I-IV2

From Avranches to Mont St. Michel and St. Mala (R. 30) . . . l-l'/a

From St. Malo to St. Brieuc and Guingamp (R. 30) 1

From Guingamp to Morlaix and Brest (R. 29) 1

From Brest to Quimper (R. 34) 1

From Quimper to Vannes (R. 34) 1

From Vannes to Nantes (R. 34) 1

From Nantes to Angelas (R. 81) 1

From Angers to Le Mans (R. 31) 1

From Le Mans to Chartres and Paris (R. 28) 1-2

I6V2-2IV2
c. A Fortnight in the Orleanais, Touraine, Berry,

Nivernais, and Burgundy. ' Davs

From Paris to OrUans and Blois (R. 35) I-IV2

From Blois to Chambord (R. 35) 1

From Blois to Amboise and Tours (R. 35) I-IV2

Excursions from Tours to Chinon and Laches (R. 35) . . . IV2-2

From Tours to Chenonceaux and Bourges (R. 35) 1-2

From Bourges to Nevers (R. 57) 1

From Kevers to Autun (R. 5(3) 1

xvi IV. RAILWAYS. DILIGENCES.

Days

From Autun to Dijon (R. 56) 1

Excursion from Dijon to Besangon (R. 48) 1

From Dijon to Auxerre and Sens (RR. 42, 41) I-IV2

From Sens to Fontainebleau and Paris (RR. 56, 55) 1

11V2'-14V2

d. A Fortnight in Champagne and Lorraine (the Vosges).

From Paris to Troyes (R. 39) 1

From Troyes to Ghaumont and Langres (R. 39) 1

From Langres to Belfort and Besangon (RR. 39, 48) I-IV2

From Besancon, via Belfort, Lure, and Aillevillers, to Plom-

hUres (RR.^ 48, 35, 42) 1

From Plombieres to Remiremont and Bussang {St. Maurice;

RR. 42, 47) 1

Ascent of the Walsche Belchen (R. 47) 1/2-I

From St. Maurice to Epinal and Oirardmer (R, 47) I-IV2

From Ge'rardmer to the Schlucht and Iloheneck (R. 47) . ... 1

From Gerardmer to St. Did, Lundville , and Nancy (RR. 40, 45) I-IV2

From Nancy to Toul and Chdlons-sur-Marne (R. 19) 1

From Chalons to Epeimay (or jS^. Hilaire-au-Temple) and Kheims

(R. 6) 1-2

From Rheima to Laon or Soissons (R. 15) 1

From Laon to Soissons and Paris (R. 15), or from Soissons to
£ao», Tergnier, and Amiens, to connect with Route a. (RR. 15, 1) 1-1 V2

12^16
The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of trav-
ellers, and to him alone the beautiful scenery of some of the more
remote districts is accessible. For a short tour a couple of flannel
shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles of the toilette,
a light waterproof, and a stout umbrella will generally be found a
sufficient equipment. Strong and well-tried boots are essential to
comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided; a
light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome, and its position may
be shifted at pleasure. A more extensive reserve of clothing should
not exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which can be easily
wielded, and may be forwarded from town to town by post.

IV. Railways. Diligences.

The districts treated in this Handbook are served mainly by the
lines of the Nord^ Est^ Quest, Paris-Lyon-MSditerranee, and Orleans
railways, and to a smaller extent by the Government lines (Reseau
de I'Etat).

The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cl. 18 c,
2ud cL 12 c, 3rd cl. 8 c, to which a tax of ten per cent on each
ticket costing more than 10 fr. is added. The mail trains C'fn/ins
rapides') generally convey first-class passengers only, and the express
trains ('■trains express') first-class and second-class only. The first
class carriages are good, but the second-class are often poor and the
third-class on the Nord and Guest lines are rarely furnished with
cushioned seats. Generally speaking, however, the rolling-stock has
been considerably improved within recent years ; and corridor-coaches
{voitures a couloir) are found in some trains on the Est system. In

IV. RAILWAYS. xvii

winter all the carriages are heated. The trains are generally provided
with smoking carriages , and in the others smoking is allowed un-
less any one of the passengers ohjects. Ladies' compartments are
also provided. The trains invariably pass each other on the left, so
that the traveller can always tell which side of a station his train
starts from. The speed of the express-trains is about 35-45 M. per
hour, but that of the ordinary trains is very much less.

Before starting, travellers are generally cooped up in the close
and dusty waiting-rooms, and are not admitted to the platform until
the train is ready to receive them ; nor is any one admitted to the
station to take leave of friends without a platform-ticket (10 c),
which may usually be obtained from the ticket-checker. Tickets
for intermediate stations are usually collected at the 'sortie' ; those
for termini, before the station is entered. Travellers within France
are allowed 30 kilogrammes (66 Engl, lbs.) of luggage free of charge;
those who are bound for foreign countries are allowed 25 kilogr. only
(55 lbs.); 10 c. is charged for booking. On the Belgian, Swiss, and
Alsatian lines all luggage in the van must be paid for. In all cases
the heavier luggage must be booked, and a ticket procured for it;
this being done, the traveller need not enquire after his 'impedi-
menta'until he arrives and presents his ticket at his final destination
(where they will be kept in safe custody, several days usually gratis).
Where, however, a frontier has to be crossed, the traveller should
see his luggage cleared at the custom-house in person. At most of
the railway-stations there is a consigne, or left-luggage office, where
a charge of 10 c. per day is made for one or two packages, and 5 c.
per day for each additional article. Where there is no consigne, the
employe's will generally take care of luggage for a trifling fee. The
railway-porters (facteurs) are not entitled to remuneration, but it is
usual to give a few sous for their services. — Interpreters are found
at most of the large stations.

Dog Tickets cost 30 c. for 20 kilometres (I2Y2 M.) or less, and
5 c. for each additional 3 kil. (1^/4 M.), with 10 c. for booking.

There are no Refreshment Rooms (Buffets) except at the principal
stations-, and as the viands are generally indifferent, the charges high,
and the stoppages brief, the traveller is advised to provide himself be-
forehand with the necessary sustenance and consume it at his leisure in
the railway-carriage. Baskets containing a cold luncheon are sold at some
of the buffets for 3-4 fr.

Sleeping Carriages (Wagons-Lits) are provided on all the main lines, and
the 'Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits' has an office at Paris (Place
delOpera 3). Dining Cars (Wagons- Restaurants) are also run in the chief
day expresses (dej. 31/2, D. 4-5 fr.) ; 2nd cl. dining-cars on the Le Havre
and Le Mans lines (dej. 2'/4, D. 31/2 fr.). Wine is extra <half-a-bottle, 1 1'r.).

Pillows and Coverlets may be hired at the chief stations (1 fr.).

The most trustworthy information as to the departure of trains
is contained in the Indicateur des Chemins deFer, published weekly,
and sold at all the stations (75 c). There are also separate and less
bulky time-tables CLivrets Chaix') for the different lines : du Nord,
de I'Est, de I'Ouest, etc. (40 c).

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. ]3

xviii IV. RAILWAYS.

Railway-time is always that of Paris, but the clocks in the in-
terior of the stations, by which the trains start , are purposely kept
five minutes slow. Belgian (Greenwich or West Europe) railway
time is 4min. behind, and 'MidEurope' time (for Germany, Switzer-
land, and Italy) 56 min. in advance of French railway-time.

Return-tickets (Billets d'aller et retour) are issued by all the
railway-companies at a reduction of 20-25 per cent or even more.
The length of time for which these tickets are available vary with
the distance and with the company by which they are issued; those
issued on Sat. and on the eves of great festivals are available for
three days or for four days if Mon. be a festival. The recognised
festivals are New Year's Day, Easter Monday, Ascension Dayj Whit-
Monday, the 'Fete Nationale' (July 14th), the Assumption (Aug.
15th), All Saints' Day (Nov. 1st), and Christmas Day.

Excursion Trains (^Trains de Plaisir' ) should as a rule be avoided,
as the cheapness of their fares is more than counterbalanced by the
discomforts of their accommodation.

Circular Tour Tickets ^Billets de Voyages Circulaires' ) are of
two kinds, viz. ^h itineraires fixes' (routes arranged by the railway
company), and '?« itineraires facultatifs' (routes arranged to meet
the wishes of individual travellers). The former will often be found
convenient as they are issued at reduced fares, with liberal arrange-
ments as to breaking the journey, but they are not usually granted
to third-class passengers. The latter, though issued for all three
classes, are now subject to a variety of conditions which practically
cancel the ostensible advantages, except in the case of journeys of
considerable length. Tourists, before purchasing one of these 'facul-
tatif tickets, should carefully study the explanatory sections in the
'Indicateur', or apply for information to a tourist- agent or other
authority. Holders of such tickets must present themselves at the
ticket-office of the original starting-place and of every station where
the journey is broken and apply for an ordinary ticket in addition.

The following are some of the expressions with which the railway
traveller in France should be familiar : Railway-station , la gare (also
Pembarcad&re) ■■, booking-ofiice, le guichet or bureau; first, second, or third
class ticket, un billet de premiere^ de seconde, de troisieme classe; to take a
ticket, prendre un billet; to register the luggage, J aire enregiftrer les bagages;
luggage-ticket, bulletin de bagage; waiting-room, salle d'attente; refreshment
room, le buffet (third-class refreshment-room, la buvette}-^ platform, le
perron, le trottoir; railway-carriage, le icagon; compartment, le compartiment,
le coupi; smoking compartment, /wmet/r^ ; ladies' compartment, daj7»«s seules;
guard, conducteur; porter, facteur; to enter the carriage, monter en wagon;
take your seats! en voiture! s.\\%h.X, descendve; to change carriages, changer
de voiture; express train to Calais , le train express pour Calais , re.rpress
de Calais.

Diligences. The French Diligences, now becoming more and
more rare, are generally slow (5-7 M. per hour), uninviting, and
inconvenient. The best seats are the three in the Coupe, beside the
driver, which cost a little more than the others and are often engaged
several days beforehand. The Interieur generally contains six places,

V. CYCLING. xix

and in some cases is supplemented by the Rotonde, a less com-
fortable hinder-compartment, which, however, affords a good retro-
spective view of the country traversed. The Imperiale, Banquette,
or roof affords the best view of all and maybe recommended in good
weather. It is advisable to book places in advance if possible, as
they are numbered and assigned in the order of application. The
fares are fixed by tariff and amount on an average to about 172^
per mile (coupe extra). — For short distances the place of the dili-
gences is taken by Omnibuses, equally comfortless vehicles, in which,
however, there is no distinction of seats. Those which run in con-
nection with the railways have a fixed tariff, but in other cases bar-
gaining is advisable. — Hotel Omnibuses, see p. xxi.

Hired Carriages fVoitures de Louage) may be obtained at all the
principal resorts of tourists at ctcrges varying from 12 to 20 fr. per
day for a single-horse vehicle and from 25 to 30 fr. for a carriage-
and-pair, with a pourboire to the driver of 1-2 fr. The hirers almost
invariably demand more at first than they are willing to take, and a
distinct understanding should always be come to beforehand. A
day"s journey is reckoned at about 30 M., with a rest of 2-3 hrs. at
midday. — Saddle Horses, Asses, and Mules may also be hired.

V. Cycling.

Cycling is a popular amusement in France, and the cyclist's
wants are everywhere fairly well provided for. On and after May 1st,
1899, cyclists entering France with their machines must obtain from
the customs-agent a cycle-permit (60 c), which must be carried on
the person and produced whenever required. If, however, the cyclist
remains more than three consecutive months in France, he musi
apply for an official metal badge, to be fixed on the steering-post.
These badges are delivered free on payment of the necessary fees
and the annual tax (6 fr.). Each cycle must have a badge for each seat,
and must, moreover, be furnished with a lamp and a bell or horn.

Cyclists in France will find it advantageous to join the Touring
Club de France (5 Rue Coq-Heron, Paris), the annual subscription
to which is 6 fr. (5s.), including a copy of the monthly Gazette. Tha
club publishes an Annuaire (1 fr.), with a list of cyclists' hotels,
repairers, representatives, etc., and also a series of Itineraries (5 c.
each). Members of the British Cyclists' Touring Club (47 Victoria St.,
London, S.W.) also enjoy special privileges.

English riders should remember that the rule of the road in
France is the reverse of that in England: keep to the right on
meeting, to the left in overtaking another vehicle.

VI. Hotels, Restaurants, and Cafes.
Hotels. Hotels of the highest class, fitted up with every modern
convenience, are found only in the larger towns and in the more

h*

XX VI. HOTELS.

fashionable watering-places, where the influx of visitors is great. In
other places the inns generally retain their primitive provincial
characteristics, which might prove rather an attraction than other-
wise were it not for the shameful defectiveness of the sanitary ar-
rangements. The beds, however, are generally clean, and the cuisine
tolerable. It is therefore advisable to frequent none but the leading
hotels in places oif the beaten track of tourists, and to avoid being
misled by the appellation of 'Grand-Hotel', which is often applied to
the most ordinary inns. Soap is seldom or never provided.

The charges of provincial hotels are usually somewhat lower than
at Paris, but at many of the largest modern establishments the tariff
is drawn up on quite a Parisian scale. Lights are not generally
charged for, and attendance is often included in the price of the
bedroom. It is prudent, though not absolutely necessary, to enquire
the charges in advance. The following are the average charges :
room 1V2"3 fr. ; breakfast or 'premier dejeuner', consisting of 'cafe
au lait', with bread and butter, l-lYifr.; luncheon or 'deuxieme
de'jeuner', taken about 11 a.m., 2-3 fr. ; dinner, usually about 6 p.m.,
274-4: fr. Wine, beer, or cider (the ordinary beverage of Normandy
and Brittany) is generally included in the charge for dinner, except
in a few towns in the north-west. Beer is not often met with at
table d'hote except in the second-class hotels of such towns as Bou-
logne and Le Havre. The second dejeuner will probably be regarded
as superfluous by most English and American travellers, especially
as it occupies a considerable time during the best part of the day.
A slight luncheon at a cafe, which may be had at any hour, will be
found far more convenient and expeditious. Attendance on the
table d'hote is not compulsory, but the charge for rooms is raised if
meals are not taken in the house, and the visitor will scarcely obtain
so good a dinner in a restaurant for the same price. In many hotels
visitors are received 'en pension' at a charge of 6-7 fr. per day and
upwards (premier dejeuner extra). The usual fee for attendance at
hotels is 1 fr. per day, if no charge is made in the bill; if service
is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected.

When the traveller remains for a week or more at a hotel, it is
advisable to pay, or at least call for the account, every two or three
days, in order that erroneous insertions may be at once detected.
Verbal reckonings are objectionable, except in some of the more
remote and primitive districts where bills are never written. A
waiter's mental arithmetic is faulty, and the faults are seldom in
favour of the traveller. A habit too often prevails of presenting the
bill at the last moment, when mistakes or wilful impositions cannot
easily be detected or rectified. Those who intend starting early in
the morning should therefore ask for their bills on the previous
evening.

English travellers often impose considerable trouble by ordering
things almost unknown in French usage; and if ignorance of the

VI. RESTAURANTS. xxi

language be added to want of conformity to the customs, misunder-
standings and disputes are apt to ensue. The reader is therefore
recommended to endeavou)*'to adapt his requirements to the habits
of the country, and to acquire if possible such a moderate proficiency
in the language as to render himself intelligible to the servants.

Articles of Value should never be kept in the drawers or cup-
boards at hotels. The traveller's own trunk is probably safer ; but it
is better to entrust them to the landlord, from whom a receipt
should be required, or to send them to a banker. Doors should be
locked at night.

Travellers who are not fastidious as to their table-companions
will often find an excellent cuisine, combined with moderate charges,
at the hotels frequented by commercial travellers (voyageurs de com-
merce, commis-voyageurs).

Many hotels send Omnibuses to meet the trains, for the use of
which ^2"^ fr. is charged in the bill. Before taking their seats in
one of these, travellers who are not encumbered with luggage should
ascertain how far off the hotel is, as the possession of an omnibus
by no means necessarily implies long distance from the station. He
should also find out whether the omnibus will start immediately
without waiting for another train.

Restaurants. Except in the largest towns, there are few pro-
vincial restaurants in France worthy of recommendation to tourists.
This, however, is of little importance, as travellers may always join
the table d'hote meals at hotels, even though not staying in the
house. He may also dine tl la carte, though not so advantageously,
or he may obtain a dinner d prix fixe (3-6 fr.) on giving V4~V2 l^r.'s
notice. He should always note the prices on the carte beforehand
to avoid overcharges. The refreshment-rooms at railway-stations
should be avoided if possible (comp. p. xvii) ; there is often a restau-
rant or a small hotel adjoining the station where a better and cheaper
meal may be obtained.

Cafes. The Cafe is as characteristic a feature of French pro-
vincial as of Parisian life and resembles its metropolitan prototype
in most respects. It is a favourite resort in the evening, when people
frequent the cafe' to meet their friends, read the newspapers, or play
at cards or billiards. Ladies may visit the better-class cafes without
dread, at least during the day. The refreshments, consisting of coffee,
tea, beer, Cognac, liqueurs, cooling drinks of various kinds [sorbet,
orgeat, sirop de groseille or de framboise, etc.), and ices, are gen-
erally good of their kind, and the prices are reasonable.

VII. Public Buildings and Collections.

The Churches, especially the more important, are open the whole
day; but, as divine service is usually performed in the morning and
evening, the traveller will find the middle of the day or the after-
noon the most favourable time for visiting them. The attendance of

xxii VIII. POST OFFICE.

the sacristan or 'Suisse' is seldom necessary; the usual gratuity
is 1/2 fr. Many of these buildings are under the special protection
of Government as ^Monuments Historiques\ and the Ministere des
Beaux-Arts has caused most oi these to be carefully restored. It is
perhaps not altogether superfluous to remind visitors that they
should move about in churches as noiselessly as possible to avoid
disturbing those engaged in private devotion, and that they should
keep aloof from altars where the clergy are officiating. Other inter-
esting buildings, such as palaces, chateaux, and castles often belong
to the municipalities and are open to the public with little or no
formality. Foreigners will seldom find any difficulty in obtaining
access to private houses of historic or artistic interest or to the parks
attached to the mansions of the noblesse.

Most of the larger provincial towns of France contain a Musee,
generally comprising a picture-gaUery and collections of various
kinds. These are generally open to the public on Sun., and often
on Thurs. also, from 10 or 12 to 4; but strangers are readily admitted
on other days also for a small pourboire. The accounts of the col-
lections given in the Handbook generally follow the order in which
the rooms are numbered, but changes are of very frequent occur-
rence.

VIII. Post and Telegraph Offices.

Post Office. Letters (whether ''poste restante' or to the traveller's
hotel) should be addressed very distinctly, and the name of the
department should be added after that of the town. The offices are
usually open from 7 a.m. in summer, and 8 a.m. in winter, to 9 p.m.
Poste Restante letters may be addressed to any of the provincial
offices. In applying for letters, the written or printed name, and in
the case of registered letters, the passport of the addressee should
always be presented. It is, however, preferable to desire letters to
be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor intends
residing. Letter-boxes (Boltes aux Lettres) are also to be found at
the railway-stations and at many public buildings, and stamps
(timhres-posie) may be purchased in all tobacconists' shops. An ex-
tract from the postal tariff is given below; more extensive details
will be found in the ALmanach des Posies et Telegraphes.

Ordinary/ Letters within France, including Corsica and Algeria, 15 ^•
per 15 grammes prepaid; for countries of the Postal Union 25 c. (The
silver franc and the bronze sou each weigh 5 grammes ; 15 gramme's, or
three of these coins, are equal to V2 oz. English.) — Registered Letters
(lettres recommandies) 25 c. extra.

Post Cards 10 c. each, with card for reply attached, 20 c.

Post Office Orders (mandats de poste) are issued for most countries in
the Postal Union at a charge of 25 c. for every 25 fr. or fraction of 25 fr.,
the maximum sum for which an order is obtainable being 500 fr. ; for
Great Britain, 20 c. per 10 fr., maximum 252 fr.

Printed Papers (imprimis sou^ hande): 1 c. per 5 grammes up to the
weight of 20 gr. ; 5 c. between 20 and 50 gr. -, above 50 gr. 5 c. for each
50 gr. or fraction of 50 gr. ; to foreign countries 5 c. per 50 gr. The

IX. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. xxiii

wrapper must be easily removable, and must not cover more than one-
third of the packet.

Parcels not exceeding 22 lbs. in weight may be forwarded at a moderate
rate (60 c.-l fr. 25 c) within France. There is also a parcel-post between
France and various foreign countries, parcels up to 11 lbs. being conveyed
at a uniform rate: viz. to Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, 1 fr. 10 c. 5
Spain, Italy, 1 fr. 35 c. ; Great Britain, Austria, Netherlands, 1 fr. 60 c. ; etc.
1 hese parcels must be sealed. All parcels should be handed in at the rail-
way-station or at the offices of the parcel-companies, not at the post-offices.

Telegrams. For the countries of Europe and for Algeria tele-
grams are charged for at the following rates per word : for France,
Algeria, and Tunis 5 c. (minimum charge 50 c.) ; Luxembourg,
Switzerland, and Belgium 12'/2 c.; Germany, 15 c; Netherlands,
16 c. ; Great Britain, Austria-Hungary, Italy, Spain, and Portugal
20 c.; Denmark 24^/2 c. ; Sweden 28 c.; Roumania, Servia, etc.,
28Y2 c. ; Norway 36 c. ; Russia in Europe 40 c; Greece 531/2-5''' c.;
Turkey 53 c. ; New York 1 fr. 25 c. ; Chicago 1 fr. 55 c.

Telephonic Communication between the principal towns, etc.;
enquire at the telegraph-offices.

IX. Weights and Measures.

(In use since 1799.)
The English equivalents of the French weights and measures
are given approximately.

Millier = 1000 kilogrammes — 19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz.
Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 2^/5 lbs. avoirdupois =

2Vio lbs. troy.
Quintal = 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 220 lbs.
Hectogramme (Yjq kilogramme) = 10 decagrammes = 100 gr.
= 1000 decigrammes. (100 grammes = 31/5 oz. ; 15 gr.
= 1/2 oz. ; 10 gr. = 1/3 oz. ; 71/2 gr. = 1/4 oz.)

Myriametre = 10,000 metres = 6Y5 Engl, miles.

Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs = about 5/g Engl. mile.

Hectometre = 10 decametres = 100 metres.

Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe-
rical distance from the equator to the pole = 3,0784 Paris
feet = 3,281 Engl, feet = 1 yd. 31/3 in.

Decimetre (Yio metre) = 10 centimetres = 100 millimetres.

Hectare (square hectometre) = 100 ares = 10,000 sq. metres

= 21/2 acres.
Are (square decametre) = 100 sq. metres.
De'ciare = Y^o are = 10 sq. metres.
Centiare = YiOO are = 1 sq. metre.

Hectolitre = Yio cubic metre = 100 litres = 22 gallons.
Decalitre = YiOO cubic metre = 10 litres = 2Y5 gals.
Litre, unit of capacity, = I3/4 pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts.

xxiv X. HISTORICAL SKETCH.

The following terms of the old system of measurements are still
sometimes used : —

Livre = '/2 kilogramme = ly^o lt>-

Pied = 1/3 metre = 13 in.

Aune = IY5 metre = 1 yd. 11 in.

Toise = l^/io metre = 2 yds. 4 in.

Lieue = 2^/2 miles.

Arpent = IY25 acre.

Setier = I1/2 hectolitre = 33 gals.

The thermometers commonly used in France are the Centigrade
and Reaumur's. The freezing point on both of these is marked 0°,
the boiling-point of the former 100°, of the latter 80°, while Fahren-
heit's boiling-point is 212° and his freezing-point 32°. It may easily
be remembered that 5" Centigrade = 4° Reaumur = 9° Fahrenheit,
to which last 32° must be added for temperatures above freezing.
For temperatures below freezing the number of degrees obtained by
converting those of Centigrade or Re'aumur into those of Fahrenheit
must be subtracted from 32. Thus 5° C = 4° R. = 9 + 32 = 41° F. ;
20° C = 16° R. = 36 + 32 = 68° F. Again, — 5° C = - 4° R.
= 32-9 = 23°F.; - 20«C= - 16«R. = 32 - 36 = - 40F.

X. Historical Sketch.

Merovingians. The history of France, properly so called, be-
gins at the end of the fifth century of the Christian era, when
Clovis I. (481-511), son of Chiideric^ king of the Ripuarian Franks
of Tournay, expelled the Romans from Northern Gaul (ca. 496), em-
braced Christianity, and united all the Franks under his sway. The
Merovingian Dynasty, which he founded and which took its name
from Meroveus, the father of Childeric, rapidly degenerated. The
Frankish state was several times divided among different princes
of the line, and this gave rise to long civil wars and finally to a
deadly rivalry between Eastern France, or Austrasia, and Western
France, or Neustria. The family of Pepin, heads of the 'Leudes'
or great vassals of Austrasia and hereditary 'Mayors of the Palace',
first of Austrasia, and afterwards also of Neustria and Burgundy,
took advantage of this state of affairs to seize for themselves the
supreme power, after Charles Martel had saved the country from
the Saracenic invasion by the great victory of Poitiers (732).

Carlo vingians. The first king of this dynasty was Pepin^ the
Short (ie Bref), who assumed the crown in 752. His son —

Charlemagne (768-814), from whom the dynasty is named,
by his able administration and by his victories over the Arabs,
Lombards, Saxons, Avars, etc., founded a vast empire, which, how-
ever, lasted but little longer than that of Clovis. After the death of
his son —

X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxv

Louis L (le Debonnaire; 814-840), lils realms were divided by
the Treaty of Verdun (843) between Louis the German, who bo-
came King of Germany; Lothaire^ who got Italy, Burgundy, and
Lotharingia or Lorraine ; and —

Charles II. the Bald [ie Chauve; 840-877), who ruled over
France. He and his three successors Louis II. the Stammerer (le
Begue; 877-879), Louis III. (879-882), and Carlomak (879-884)
proved themselves weak and incapable rulers, who were able neither
to protect their kingdom from the inroads of the Normans nor their
regal power from encroachments at the hands of the feudal nobles.

Charles III. the Fat (^e Grosj 884-887), son of Louis the
German and himself Emperor of Germany, succeeded Carloman in
884, but left the care of defending Paris from the Normans to Count
Odo or Eudes, Duke of France and Count of Paris, in whose favour
he was deposed in 887. Odo was the ancestor of the Capetian fam-
ily (see below).

Charles IV. [le Simple; 898-923), son of Louis le Begue, suc-
ceeded Eudes and acquiesced in the establishment of the duchy of
Normandy. He also was overthrown by the nobles, who put iu his
place, first, Robert (922-923), brother of Eudes, and then Raoul
(923-936), Robert's son-in law. Three other Carlovingians then
bore the title of King; Louis IV. (d'Outremer; 936-954), son of
Charles the Simple ; Lothaire (954-986) ; and Louis V. [le Fai-
ntant; 986-987); but these monarchs possessed less real power
than their great subjects Hugh the Oreat^ son of Robert, and Hugh
Capet.

Capetians. Hugh or Hugues Capet, grand-nephew of Count
Eudes, was declared king of France in 987 and founded the Third
or Capetian DynasUj, which furnished France for eight centuries
with an unbroken line of monachs, under whom the country ad-
vanced to greatness and independence.

Robert II. (le Pieux), 996.

Henri L, 1031.

Philip I., 1060. During the reigns of these three monarchs
France suffers from feudal dissensions and wars with the Dukes of
Normandy. William, Duke of Normandy, conquers England, 1066.
First Crusade under Godfrey de Bouillon, 1096.

Louis VI. [le Gros; 1108-37) encourages the growth of the
Communes as a check upon the power of the nobles. Suger, abbot
of St. Denis, the king's minister.

Louis VII. [le Jeune; 1137-80) foolishly leaves his kingdom to
take part in the Second Crusade (1147), and is further guilty of the
great political blunder of divorcing Eleanor of Guienne and Poitou,
who marries Henry Plantagenet, afterwards Henry II. of England,
taking with her as her dowry extensive possessions in France.

Philip II. [Auguste; 1180-1223) undertakes the Third Crusade,
in company with Richard Coeur-de-Lion, 1189. On his return he at-

xxvi X. HISTORICAL SKETCH.

tacks the Englisli possessions in France, occupies Normandy, Maine,
and Poitou, and defeats the English, Flemish, and German troops
at Bouvines in 1214.

Louis VIII. {le Lion; 1223-26) makes fresh conquests in the
S. of France.

Louis IX. [St. Louis; 1226-70) engages in the Seventh and
Eighth Crusades, the former in Egypt, where he loses the battle of
Mansourah and is taken prisoner (1249), the latter against Tunis,
where he dies (1270).

Philip III. [le Hardi; 1270-85) acquires Provence by inherit-
ance.

Philip IV. (le Bel; 1285-1314) continues the struggle with
England. Defeat of Courtrai (1302). Victory of Mons-en-Puelle
(1304) and conquest of Flanders. Financial embarrassments, exac-
tions, debased coinage, disputes with Boniface VII I. ^ suppression
of the order of Knights Templar^ and removal of the papal seat to
Avignon, ThQ Parlement, or court of justice, becomes the central
machine of government, and the Pouvoir Public^ or Legal and Con-
stitutional Power,, grows at the expense of the feudal and ecclesi-
astical powers. The Etats-Generaux, or Estates General, are con-
voked for the first time.

Louis X. (le Hutin or the Quarrelsome ; 1314-16).

Philip V. [le Long; 1316-22) and —

Charles IV. (le Bel; 1322-28) are able administrators, but do
not show so firm a front towards the nobles as Philip IV. AVith
Charles IV. the direct line of the Capetians ends, and the crown
passes to his cousin, Philip of Valois.

House of Valois. Philip VI. (1328-50) defeats the Flemings
at Cassel (1328). The ^Guerre de Cent Ans\ or Hundred Years^ War
with England (1337-1453), begins, in consequence of the rival pre-
tensions arising from the second marriage of Eleanor of Guienne
(see above). Battle of Crecy (1346). Edward III. of England be-
comes master of Calais.

John II. (^e Bon; 1350-64) is defeated and taken prisoner by
the English at Poitiers in 1356. Treaty of Bretigny (1360), con-
firming the loss of the country to the S. of the Loire.

Charles V. (^le Sage; 1364-80). Battle of Cocherel (1364).
The English expelled by Bertrand du Guesclin.

Charles VI. (1380-1422) becomes insane in 1392. Defeat of
the Flemings under Artevelde at Rosbeck (1382). War with the
Armagnacs and Burgundians. The French under the Constable
d'Albret defeated by Henry V. of England at Agincourt or Azincourt
(1415). Paris occupied by the English, 1421.

Charles VII. (1422-61). The siege of Orleans raised by Joan
of Arc (1429). Coronation at Rheims. Joan burned at Rouen as a
\yitch (1431). The English expelled Irom the whole of France ex-
cept Calais.

X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxvil

Louis XI. (1461-83) breaks up the Liyue du BienPaldic^ which
liis hasty and sweeping reforms had called into existence. He sub-
sequently displays greater astuteness, and considers no means un-
fair that aid hini to deal a mortal blow at the feudal system. He
effects great things in administrative reform and territorial unity,
and puts France in a condition to aspire to foreign conquests. His
chief acquisitions are Burgundy, Franche-Comt^, Artois, and
Provence.

Charles VIII. (1483-98) marries Anne of Brittany^ whose duchy
is thereby united with the French crown, and makes a temporary
conquest of Naples (1495), on which he has hereditary claims.

Louis XII. (le Pere du Peuple; 1498-1515), first king of the
younger branch of the House of Valois, conqueror of Milan and (in
alliance with the Spaniards) of Naples. Having quarrelled with his
Spanish allies, he is defeated by them on the Garigliano in 1503,
on which occasion Bayard is present. The League of Cambrai is
formed for the purpose of expelling the Venetians from the main-
land of Italy. The Venetians defeated at Agnadello (1509); but
they succeed in destroying the League, and in forming the Ligue
Sainte for the purpose of expelling the French from Italy. They
defeat the French at Ravenna^ 1512.

Francis I. (1515-47), second-cousin and son-in-law of Louis XII.,
defeats the Swiss at Marignano, and recovers the Duchy of Milan
(1515). Four wars with Charles V. for the possession of Burgundy
and Milan. Francis defeated and taken prisoner at Pavia (1525).
Francis encourages art. The absolute power of the throne increases.

Henri II (1547-59), husband of Catherine de Medicis, accident-
ally killed at a tournament. Metz, Toul, and Verdun annexed to
France (1556). Final expulsion of the English.

Francis II. (1559-60), husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland.

Charles IX., brother of Francis IL (1560-74). Regency of
Catherine de Medicis^ the king's mother. Beginning of the Religious
Wars. Louis de Conde, Antoine de Navarre, and Admiral Coligny,
leaders of the Huguenots; Fran^'ois de Guise and Charles de Lor-
raine command the Roman Catholic army. Massacre of St. Bartho-
lomew, 24th August, 1572.

Henri III (1574-90), brother of his two predecessors, flees from
Paris, where a rebellion had broken out, by the advice of his mother,
Catherine de Medicis (d. 1588); assassinated at St. Cloud by Jac-
ques Cle'ment, a Dominican friar.

House of Bourbon. — Henri IV (1589-1610), first monarch of
the House of Bourbon, defeats the Roman Catholic League at Ar-
gues in 1589, and at Ivry in 1590, becomes a Roman Catholic in
1593, captures Paris in 1594. Sully, his minister. Religious toler-
ation granted by the Edict of Nantes (1598). Henry, divorced from
Margaret of Valois in 1599, marries Marie de Medicis the following
year; assassinated by Ravaillac in 1610.

xxviii X. HISTORICAL SKETCH.

Louis XIII. (1610-43), a feeble monarch, is at first dependent
on his mother Marie de Medicis, the regent: she is banished to Co-
logne, where she dies in 1642. Richelieu, his minister (d. 1642).
English fleet defeated at Re (1627) ; La Rochelle taken from the
Huguenots. France takes part in the Thirty Years' War against
Austria.

Louis XIV. (1643-1715) succeeds to the throne at the age of
five, under the regency of his mother, Anne of Austria. Ministers:
Mazarin (d. 1661), Louvois (d. 1691), and Colbert (d. 1683). Gen-
erals: Turenne (d. 1675), Conde (d. 1686), Luxembourg (d. 1695).

War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Conde (Due
d'Enghien) defeats the Spaniards at Rocroy in 1643, and at Lens in
Holland in 1645. Turenne defeats the Bavarians at Freiburg and
at Nordlingen (1644). Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the
Pyrenees, with Spain (1659).

Death of Mazarin (1661). The king governs alone.

Louis marries Maria Theresa (1660). After the death of his
father-in-law, Philip IV. of Spain, Louis lays claim to the Low
Countries. Turenne conquers Hainault and part of Flanders (1667)
Cond^ occupies the Franche Comte. Peace of Aix-la-Chapelie, in
consequence of the Triple Alliance (1668).

War with Holland, Passage of the Rhine (1672). Occupation of
the provinces of Utrecht and Guelderland. Victories of Turenne
over the Imperial army at Sinzheim, Ensisheim, MUhlhausen (1674),
and Tilrkheim (1675). Death of Turenne at Sassbach (1675).

Admiral Duquesne defeats the Dutch fleet neSiT Syracuse (1676).
Marshal Luxembourg defeats William of Orange at Montcassel
(1677). Peace of Nymwegen (1678). Strassburg occupied (1681).
Occupation of Luxembourg. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes
(1685). Louis marries Mme. de Maintenon (1685). Devastation of
the Palatinate (1688). Marshal Luxembourg defeats the Imperial
troops dXFleurus (1690) and William of Orange at Steenkerke (1692)
and Neerwinden (1693). The French fleet under Admiral Tour-
ville defeated by the English at La Hogue (1692). Peace of Ryswyk
(1697).

Spanish AVar of Succession (1701). Victory of Vendome at Luz-
zara (1702), and of Tallard at Speyer (1702). Taking of Landau
(1702). Victory at Hochstiidt (1703); defeat at Hochstddt. or Blen-
heim (1704), by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene of
Savoy. Marshal Villars defeated by Prince Eugene at Turin (1705),
and by Marlborough and the Prince SitRamillies (1709), Oudenaerde
(1708), and Malplaquet (1709). Peaces of Utrecht (1713) and Ra-
stadt (1714).

This reign is the golden age of French literature , illuminated
by such names as Corneille, Racine, Moliere. Lafontaine, BoiUaUy
Bossuetj Fenelon, Descartes, Pascal, La Bruyere, and Mme. de
Sevigne.

X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxix

Louis XV. (1715-74). Duke of Orleans regent tiU 1723. Louis
marries Marie Lesczinska of Poland (1725). The king takes no in-
terest in public affairs and leads a life of the most pronounced
selfishness and debauchery. The chief power is in the hands of the
Due de Bourbon (1723-26), Cardinal Fleury (1726-43), the crea-
tures of La Pompadour (1745-62) and La Duharry , the king's
mistresses, and the Due de Choiseul (1758-62). Austrian War
of Succession (1740-48). Defeat at Dettingen by George II. of
England (1743). Defeat of the Dutch and English at Fontenoy
(1745), of the Austrians under Charles of Lorraine at Rocoux
(1746), and of the Allies near Laeffelt (Lawfeld) in 1747. Taking
of Maastricht and Peace of Aix-la-Cliapelle (1748). Naval war
against England.

The Seven Years' War (1756-63). Duke of Cumberland defeated
by Marshal d'Estre'es at Hastenheck (1757). The French under
Prince de Soubise defeated the same year by Frederick the Great at
Rossbach^ and in 1758 at Crefeld, by the Duke of Brunswick. The
latter defeated by Marshal Broglie at Bergen (1760). The French
defeated at Minden (1759), etc. Peace of Paris (1763), by which
France loses Canada and her other possessions in North America.
Acquisition of Lorraine (1766) and Corsica (1768).

During this reign the moral ruin of the monarchy is consummat-
ed and financial ruin becomes unavoidable. Voltaire^ Rousseau,
and Diderot are the most influential authors and the great leaders
of the literary revolution.

Louis XVI. (1774-93), married to Marie Antoinette, daughter
of Francis I. and Maria Theresa. American War of Independence
against England (1776-83). Exhaustion of the finances of France;
Vergeimes, Turgot, Necker, Calonne, Brienne, and Necker (a second
time), ministers of finance.

1789. Revolution. Assembly of the States General at Versail-
les, 5th May. Their transformation into a Constituent Assembly,
17th June. Oath of the Jeu de Paume, 20th June. Creation of the
National Guard, 13th July. Storming of the Bastille, 14th July. The
'Femmes de la Halle' at Versailles, 5th Oct. Confiscation of eccle-
siastical property, 2nd Nov.

1790. National fete in the Champ-de-Mars, 14th July.

1791. The Emigration. The royal family escape from Paris, but
are intercepted at Vaiennes, 22nd June. Oath to observe the Con-
stitution, 14th Sept. Assemblee Legislative.

1792. War with Austria, 20th April. Storming of the Tuileries,
10th Aug. The king arrested, 11th Aug. Massacres in Sept. Can-
nonade of Valmy against the Prussians, 20th Sept. The National
Convention opened, and royalty abolished, 21st Sept.

Eepublic proclaimed, 25th Sept. Custine enters Mayence, 21st
Oct. Battle of Jemappes against the Austrians, 6th Nov. ConcLuest
of Belgium.

XXX X. HISTORICAL SKETCH.

1793. Louis XVI. beheaded, 21st Jan. Republican reckoning
of time introduced, 22nd Sept. +. Reign of Terror. The queen
beheaded, 16th Oct. Worship o/'iJcas on introduced, 10th Nov. Loss
of Belgium.

1794. Jourdan's victory at Fleurus, 16th June. Belgium re-
conquered. Robespierre's fall and execution, 27th July.

1795. Conquest of Holland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander
of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Danican,
4th Oct. Directory established, 27th Oct.

1796. Bonaparte's successes in Italy (Montenotte, Millesimo,
Lodi, Milan, Castiglione, Bassano, and Arcole).

1797. Victory at Rivoli, 17th Jan. Taking of Mantua, 2nd Feb.
The Austrians commanded by Archduke Charles, at first victorious,
are defeated by Bonaparte. Peace of Campo Formio, 17th Oct.
Change in the Directory on 18th Fructidor (4th Sept.).

1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pj/ramids, 21st July.
Defeated by Nelson at the battle of the Nile (Aboukir), 1st Aug.

1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney
Smith. Victory of Aboukir, 25th July. French armies repulsed in
Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. Bonaparte returns to France.
Fall of the Directory, 9th Nov. Establishment of the Consulate,
24th Dec. Bonaparte First Consul.

1800. Bonaparte's passage of the St. Bernard, 13-16th May.
Victories at Piacenza, Montebello, Marengo, and Hohenlinden. At-
tempt to assassinate Napoleon at Paris, 23rd Dec.

1801. Peace of Luniville with Germany, 9th Feb. Concordat,
15th July.

1802. Peace of Amiens with England, 27th March. Bonaparte
(with Cambaceres and Lebrun) elected Consul for life, 2nd Aug.

1804. First Empire. Napoleon I. proclaimed Emperor by the
Senate, 18th May; crowned by Pope Pius VII., 2nd Dec.

1805. Renewal of war with Austria. Capitulation of Ulm, 17th
Oct. Defeat of Trafalgar, 21st Oct. Battle of Austerlitz, 2nd Dec.
Peace of Pressburg, 26th Dec.

1806. Establishment of the Rhenish Confederation, 12th July.

+ The year had 12 months: Vendomiaire (month of the vendage, or
vintage) from 22nd Sept. to 21st Oct., Brumaire (brume, fog) 22nd Oct. to
20th Nov., and Frimaire {frimas, hoar-frost) 21st Nov. to 20th Dec, were
the three autumn-months; — Kivose (neige, snow) 21st Dec. to 19th Jan.,
Pluviose (plnie, rain) 20th Jan. to IbthFeb., and Ventose (»en<, wind) 19th
Feb. to 20th March, winter-months; — Germinal (germe, germ), 21st March
to 19th April, Florc'al (Jieur, flower) 20th April to 19th May, and Prairial
(prairie, meadow) 20th May to 18th June, spring-months; — Messidor
(nioixson, harvest) 19th June to 18th July, Thermidor (therme, warmth) 19th
July to 17th Aug., and Fructidor (fruit, fruit) 18th Aug. to 16th Sept.
summer-months. — Each month had 30 days, and consisted of 3 decades
weeks being abolished. At the close of the year there were 5 jours com-
pUmentaires, 17th Sept. to 21st. — The republican calendar was discon-
tinued by a decree of 9th Sept., 1805.

X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxxi

War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstddt, 14th Oct. Entry
into Berlin, 27th Oct. Continental blockade.

1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Battles of Eylau and
Friedland. Treaty of TUsit, 8th July. Occupation of Lisbon,
30th Nov.

1808. War in Spain, in order to maintain Joseph Bonaparte on
the throne. Code Napoleon promulgated.

1809. Conquest of Saragassa, 21st Feb. Renewed war with
Austria. Battle of Eckmiihl, 19th-23rd April. Vienna entered, 13th
May. Battles of Aspern, or Essling, and Wagram, 5th and 6th July.
Peace of Vienna, 14th Oct. Abolition of the temporal power of
the pope.

1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise , daughter of
Francis II. of Austria, 11th March. Napoleon at the height of his
power.

1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and the
Moskowa. Moscow entered, 15th Sept. Retreat begun, 19th Oct.
Passage of the Beresina. — Wellington's victory at Salamanca.

1813. Battles of Lutzen, Bautzen, Grossheeren, Dresden, Katz-
bach, Kulm, Leipsic (16-18th Oct.), Hanau, etc.

1814. Battles of Brienne, La Rothiere, Montmirail, Laon,
Arcissur-Aube, and Paris. Entrance of the Allies into Paris, 31st
March. Abdication of the Emperor, 11th April. His arrival at Elba,
4th May.

1814. Restoration. Louis XVIII. proclaimed king, 6th April.
First Treaty of Paris, 30th May.

1815. Napoleon's return from Elba; at Cannes on 1st, and at
Paris on 20th March. Battles of Ligny and Waterloo, 16th and 18th
June. Second entrance of the Allies into Paris, 7th July. Second
Peace of Paris, 20th Nov. Napoleon banished to St. Helena, where
he dies (5th May, 1821).

1823. Spanish campaign, to aid Ferdinand VIIL, under the Due
d'Angouleme, son of Charles X.

1824. Charles X.

1830. Conquest of Algiers.

1830. Revolution of July (27th-29th) and fall of the Bourbons.

House of Orleans. Louis Philippe elected King, 7th Aug.
Continued war in Africa; consolidation of the French colony of
Algeria.

1848. Revolution op February (23rd and 24th).

1848. Republic. Sanguinary conflicts in Paris, 23rd to 26th
June. Louis Napoleon, son of the former king of Holland, elected
President, 10th Dec.

1851. Dissolution of the Assemblee; Coup d'Etat, 2nd Dec.

1852. Second Empire. Napoleon III. elected emperor by ple-
biscite, 2nd Dec.

1854. War with Russia. Crimean Campaign. — 1855. Capture

xxxii XI. POLITICAL aEOGRAPHY.

of Sebastopol, 8tli Sept. — 1856. Peace of Paris, 30th March. —
1859. War with Austria. Battles of Magenta (4th June) and Sol-
ferino (24th June). Peace of Villa franca, 11th July. — 1862.
Mexican Expedition. — 1867. Dispute with Prussia ahout Luxem-
bourg.

1870. War with Prussia. Declaration of war, 19th July. Battles
in August: Weissenhurg (4th), Worth (6th), Spicheren (6th), Bcrny,
Rezonville, and Gravelotte (14th, 16th, 18th), Beaumont (30th).
Battle of Sedan, 1st Sept. Surrender of Napoleon III.

Republic proclaimed, 4th Sept. Capitulation of Strassburg^ 27th
Sept., and of Metz, 27th Oct. Battles near Orleans, 2nd-4th Dec.

1871. Battle of St. Quentin, 19th Jan. Capitulation of Paris,
28th Jan. The Germans enter Paris, 1st March.

1871. Communist Insurrection, 18th March. Seat of govern-
ment removed to Versailles, 20th March. Second siege of Paris, 2nd
April. Peace of Frankfort, 10th May, resigning Alsace and part of
Lorraine to Germany. Paris occupied by the Government troops,
25th May. — The Communist insurrection finally quelled, 28th
May. — M. Thiers, who had been chief of the executive since 17th
Feb., appointed President of the Republic, 31st Aug.

1873. Death of Napoleon III., 9th Jan. — Marshal MncMahon
appointed President instead of M. Thiers, 14th May. Final eva-
cuation of France by the German troops, 16th Sept.

1875. Republican Constitution finally adjusted, 25th Feb.

1878. Universal Exhibition, at Paris.

1879. M. Jules Grevy becomes President. The Chambers of the
Legislature return from Versailles to Paris.

1881. Expedition to Tunis. — 1882-85. Expeditions to Tongking
and Madagascar.

1887. M. Sadi Carnot becomes President in place of M. Gre'vy,
3rd Dec. — 1889. Universal Exhibition, at Paris,

1894. Assassination of President Carnot, by the Italian Caserio,
24th June. M. J. Casimir Perier elected president two days later. —
1895. Resignation of Casimir Pe'rier and election of M. Felix Faure
to the presidency, Jan, loth and 17th. Expedition to Madagascar
and annexation of that island.

1899. Death of President Faure, Feb. 16th. M. Emile Loubet
elected president, Feb. 18th.

XI. Political Geography.
Population. At the census taken in March, 1896, France, ex-
cluding her seamen and colonies, contained 38,517,976 inhab,,
including 1,027,491 foreigners, most of whom were Belgians,
Italians, Spaniards, or Germans. The annual increase of popula-
tion in France is smaller than in any other country of W. Europe,

XI. POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxiii

only 175,027 persons having been added to her population since
1891.

Constitution and Government. France has been a Republic
since Sept. 4th, 1870. The legislative power is vested in a National
Assembly, consisting of a Chamber of Deputies and a Senate. The
former consists of 580 members elected by universal suffrage for
four years. The Senate contains 300 members, elected indirectly
through electoral colleges and holding office for nine years, one-
third submitting to re-election every three years. The executive
power is confided by the Assembly to a President of the Republic,
elected for seven years, and every act of the President must be
countersigned by one of the ten responsible Ministers.

Civil Administration. France is divided into 86 Departments,
or 87, including the small Territory) of Belfort, forming the sole
fragment of Alsace left to France after the war of 1870-71. The
departments are subdivided into 362 Arrondissement^, 2899 Cantons,
and 36,170 Communes. At the head of each department is a Prefect
(Prefet), over each arrondissement a Sub-Prefect (Sous-Prefet), and
over each commune a Maire, each of whom is assisted by a council.
The cantons have no special civil administration.

The departments were formed in 1790 to replace the 32 old pro-
vinces, the retention of* which perpetuated the diversity of manners
and customs, while they were separated from each other by barriers
for internal revenue and had legal institutions of the most flagrant
discrepancy. As a rule the size of the departments varies between
2000 and 3000 sq. M, ; their names are taken from their chief rivers
or other striking natural features. In the following table we follow
the order of the river-basins, beginning in the N.E. The correspond-
ence between the old provinces and the departments formed out of
them is only approximately exact.

Ancient Provinces & Corresponding

Modern Departments.

Prov.

Depart.

Cap.

Cap.

Prov.

Depart.

Cap.

Cap.

Alsace

Strasshurg

Maine

Le Mans

1 Territory of

jBelfort

Sarthe

Le Mans

Lorraine

Nancy

Maycnne

Laval

Vosges

Epinal

AUVERGNE

Clermont-Ferrand

Meur(he-d-Mos.

Nancy

Puy-de-D6me

Clermont-Ferr.

Meuse

Bar-le-Duc

Cantal

Aurillac

Flandre (Flanders)

Lille

3IARCHE

Ouiret

\Iford

iLille

1 Creuze

IGueret

Artois

Arras

Limousin

Limogei

\Pas-de- Calais

1 Arras

1 Correze

Tulle

Picardie

Amiens

\Haute-Vienne

Limoges

\Somme

lAmiena

POITOU

Poitiers

Champagne

Troyes

Vienne

Poitiers

Haute-Marne

|Chaumont

Deux-Sevres

Niort

Aube

iTroyea

Vendue

LaRoclie-3.-Yon

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit.

XI. POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Prov.

Depart.

Cap,

Cap.

Prov.

Depart.

Cap.

Cap.

■ Marne

Chalons-sur-M.

Adnis

La Rochelle

Ardennes

Mezieres

Saintonge-&-An-

Ile-de-Feance

Paris

GODLfiME

Saintes

\ Seine

Paris

Char en (e

Angouleme

\Seine-d:- Marne

Meulun

Charente-Infir.

La Rochelle

Seine-dr-Oise

Versailles

GDIENNE-<t--GASC.

Bordeaux

Oise

Beauvais

HautesPyrin.

Tarbes

Aisne

Laon

Gers

Auch

NOKMANDIE

Rouen

Tarn-d- Garonne

Montauban

Seine-Infir.

Rouen

Avevron

Rodez

Eure

Evreux

Lot

Cahors

Calvados

Caen

Lot-<k-Garonne

Agen

Orne

Alencon

Dordogne

Perigueux

Manche

St. Lo

Gironde

Bordeaux

BRETAGNE(Brittany)

Rennes

1 Landes

Mont-de-Mars.

IU-&- Vilaine

Rennes

BfiARN-&-NAVARRE

Pau

CStes-du-Nord

St. Brieuc

\Ba!^ses- Pyrin.

|Pau

FinisUre

Quimper

Languedoc

Toulouse

Morbihan

Vannes

\Loz^re

Mende

Loire Infir.

Nantes

Haute- Loire

Le Puy

BOURBONNAIS

Moulins

\Ardeche

Privas

\AUier

IMoulins

Gard

Nimes

NiVERNAIS

Nevers

Eirault

Montpellier

\mivre

INevers

Aude

Carcassonne

Berrt

Bourges

Tarn

Albi

C/ier

Bo urges
Chateauroux

Haute- Garonne

Toulouse

Indre

Franche-Comte

Besangon \

Orl^anais

OrUans

Daubs

Besancon

Loiret

Orleans

Haute-Saone

Vesoul

Eure-i-Loir

Chartres

Jura

Lons-le-Saun.

Loir-d-Cher

Blois

Bourgogne (Burg.)

Di.

ion

TOURAINE

Tours

Yonne

Auxerre

\Indre-<t-Loire

ITours

C6te-d'0r

Dijon

An.iou

Angers

Sa6ne-d-Loire

Macon

\Maine-d:- Loire

1 Angers

Ain

Bourg

Ltonnais

Lyon

Prove ce

Aix

\Loire

St. Etienne

\Bouches-du-Rh.

Marseille

iRhdne

Lyon

Basses-Alpes

,Digne

Savoie

ChamUry

\Var

IDraguignan

Haute-Savoie

Annecy

CoMTft DE FoIX

Foix

Savoie

Chambery

\Ari^ge

iFoix

Dacphine

Grenoble

ROUSSILLON

Perpignan

/stVe

Grenoble

\Pyrindes- Orient.

IPerpignan

<Hautes-Alpes

Gap

CoMTfe DE Nice

Nice

1 DrOme

! Valence

\Alpes-Marit.

iNice

Etat d'Avignon

Avignon

Corse (Corsica)

Bastin

Vaucluse

lAvignon

1 Corse

jAjacoio

Tbe Etat d^Avignon, Savoy, and Nice were not old French provinces,
the first having been acquired in 1791 and the other two in 1860.

Army. Tbe whole of France is divided into nineteen Military
Regions (Regions de Corps d'Armee), each under a general of divi-
sion, while Paris has a separate military government.

Military service is compulsory on every Frenchman, not declared
unfit, between the ages of 20 and 46. The Army is divided into an
Active Army and a Territorial Army, each with its Reserve. On

XI. POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxv

a peace-footing the former consists of 540,000 men and the latter
of 800,000 men, forming a total of 1,340,000. On a war-footing
these totals rise to 1,800,000, 2,000,000, and 3,800,000.

Navy. For naval purposes France is divided into five Prefectures
Maritimes, the seats of which are Cherbourg, Brest, Lorient, Roche-
fort, and Toulon. The fleet consists of about 300 war vessels in
commission, including 26 ironclads and 35 crusers. These are
manned by 71,000 sailors and marines, a total that can be raised
to 120,000 in time of war.

Justice. Each canton contains a Justice de Paix or Justice of
the Peace; each arrondissement a, Tribunal of the First Instance ; and
each department a Cour d' Assises, or criminal court. Above these
are 26 Cours d'Appel, or courts of appeal, in the principal towns, and
the Cour de Cassation, or supreme court of appeal, at Paris. There
are also Commercial, Military, and Naval Courts in places where
such tribunals have been found desirable.

Education. Education is compulsory on all children between
six and thirteen years. In the budget a sum of about 130 million
francs (5,200,000^.) is set down for the Minister of Public Instruc-
tion, nearly two-thirds being allotted to elementary education.

The Higher Education is entrusted to seventeen Universities,
which until 1896 were known as 'academies universitaires'. Two
of these universities (those of Paris and Bordeaux) have the five fac-
ulties of theology, law, medicine, science, and letters; three (Lyons,
Nancy, Lille) have four faculties, eight have three, two have two,
and two (Marseilles and Rouen) have one faculty only. There are
also 'Facultes' of Protestant Theology at Paris and Montauban, and
Roman Catholic Institutes at Paris, Angers, Lyons, and Lille.

Secondary Education is imparted by about 100 Lycees and 250
Colleges Communaux, including 30 lycees and 30 colleges for girls. In
addition to these there still exist about 360 private colleges and 350
ecclesiastical colleges.

There is at least one Elementary School in each commune, irre-
spective of private schools.

The educational work of each department is presided over by an
Inspecteur d'Academie, and each arrondissement has an Inspecteur
d' Instruction Primaire.

In addition to the above-mentioned schools and colleges are
numerous Technical and Special Institutions .

Religion. All religions are equal by law, and three sects, viz.
Roman Catholics, Protestants, and Jews, receive grants from govern-
ment, the items in the budget under this head amounting to 45 or
50 million francs. The overwhelming majority of the inhabitants of
France proper, or about 37 millions out of 38 V2 millions, are reckon-
ed as Roman Catholics. The hierarchy of the Roman Catholic church
embraces 17 Archbishops and 67 Bishops, whose sees are generally

p.*

xxxvi XII. MAPS.

(not always) coextensive with the departments. The sees of the
archbishops are at Aix, Alhi, Auch, Avignon, BesanQon, Bordeaux
Bourges, Cambrai, Chambe'ry, Lyons, Paris, Rheims, Rennes, Rouen,
Sens, Toulouse, and Tours. The regular clergy number about 55,000.

The Protestants, who number about 600,000, are divided into
Lutherans and Calvinists , the former governed by a General Con-
sistory, the latter by a Central Council, both sitting at Paris. The Lu-
therans are most numerous intheE., the Calvinists in the S. provinces.

The number of Jews in France does not exceed 60,000.

XII. Maps.

The best maps of France have hitherto been the Cartes de I'Etat-
Major, or Ordnance Maps of the War Office. One series of these is
on a scale of 1 80,000, and includes 273 sheets, each 2Y2 ft* long and
lY2ft'Wide, while another, reduced from the above, is on a scale of
1 : 320,000 and consists of 33 sheets fl for 16 of the others) or 27
for France proper. These may be had either engraved on steel (2fr.
per sheet) or lithographed (50 c). The engraved maps are con-
siderably clearer in the mountainous regions, but the lithographs
are good enough for ordinary use. The larger scale map is also issued
in quarter sheets (1 fr. engraved; 30 c. lithographed), which are
Intended ultimately to supersede the larger sheets.

As, however, these maps were executed entirely in black and
were, besides, becoming antiquated, the War Office has undertaken
two new series, which are printed in five colours, one on a scale of
1 : 50,000 (not now sold to the public) and one on a scale of
1 : 200,000. The sheets of the latter (IV2 fr. each) are 251/2 in. long
and 16 in. wide, and each corresponds to four of the first-men-
tioned map.

Other maps (all in several colours) are those issued by the Min-
istry of the Interior in 1891-94 (1 : 100,000; 80 c. per sheet), by the
Ministry of Public Works (1 :200,000; 40 r. per sheet), showing the
elevations, and by the Depot des Fortifications (1 : 500,000; IY2 f""'
per sheet).

All these maps may be obtained in the chief tourist-resorts, but
it is advisable to procure them in advance. The following shops in
Paris have always a full supply on hand: Barrere, Rue du Bac 4:
Baudoin, Rue et Passage Dauphine 30.

The cataloiiue of the Service Geoiiraphique de TArme'e (i fr.) contains
key- plans of its maps, including also those of Algeria, Tunis, and Africa
eenerally (parts sold separately 10 c. ; Algeria and Tunis. 25 c.). Barrere's
catalogue (gratis) lias key-plans of the 1:80.000, i:200.(XX). and l:32l).000
maps; and key-plans of the 1:100,000 map may be obtained at Hachette's,
Boulevard St. Germain 9; and of the Public Works map at Delagrave's,
JRue Soufflot 15.

p^

Gmn et nuprim* J».ir

F Ay T IK

tE PRE
CIS RV AI S

yffi'*^''r>4_i ^i* «; '" " X*^-„ braise.

Ba^nolet

NORTHERN FRAN CE.

L DISTRICT TO THE NORTH OF THE SEINE AND THE

VOSGES.

1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris 3

I. From Calais to Amiens 6

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville 6

From Calais to Dimkirk, 6. — From Boulogne to St.
Omer, 10. — From Boulogne to Arras, 10. — From Rang-

du- Fliers -Verton to Berck, 11. — From Noyelles to
St. Valery-sur-Somme; to Le Crotoy, 11, 12. — From
Abbeville to Bethune; to Dompierre-sur-Autbie (Cr^cy),
13 5 to Eu, 14. — From Longpre to Le Treport ; to
Canaples, 15.

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras 15

From Watten to Gravelines, 15. — From Bergnette to

St. Omfer, 17. — From Hazebrouck to Ypres; to Hond-
schoote, 17, 18. — From Bully- Grenny to Brias; to
Violaines, 18. — From Lens to Armentieres; to Liber-
court, 18. — From Arras to Doullens. From Achiet
to Marcoing via Bapaume, 21.

c. Via Anvin, St. Pol, Prevent, and Donllens. . . 22
II. From Amiens to Paris 24

a. Via Creil 24

From St. Just to La-Rue-Saint-Pierre and to Beauvais, 24.

— From Clermont to Beauvais; to Compiegne, 25.

b. Via Beauvais 25

2. Amiens 25

From Amiens to Rouen-, to Beaucamp-le-Vieux, 31.

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mers) ... 31
I. From Paris to Beauvais 31

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont 31

From Beaumont to Creil; to Hermes, 82,

b. Via Chantilly and Creil 32

From Beauvais to Gournay, 85. — From Beauvais to
Gisors, 36.

II. From Beauvais to Le Treport '36

From Eu to Ault and Onival, 37.

4. From Dieppe to Paris 38

a. Via Rouen 41

I. From Dieppe to Rouen 41

From Dieppe to St. Valery-en-Caux and Cany; to Le
Treport, 41,

II, From Rouen to Paris 41

From St. Pierre-en -Vauvray to Les Andelys , 42. —
From Vernon to Gisors; to Pacy-sur-Eure, 43.

b. Via Gisors and Pontoise 45

From Gisors to Pont-de-rArche, 47.

5. Rouen 48

Bakdekek's Northern France. 3rd Edit.

NORTH-EASTERN FRANCE.

Environs of Rouen; Bonsecours, 58. — From Rouen to
Le Havre by the Seine, 59. — From Rouen to Orle'ans,
via Elbeuf, Dreux, and Cliartres, 59.

6. From Le Havre to Paris via Ronen 60

Ste. Adresse. From Le Havre to Etretat and Fecamp,
64. — From Breaute-Beuzeville to Lillebonne (Tancar-
.ville), 64. — From Blotteville to Cleres and to Monte-
rolier-Buchy, 65. — From Barentin to Caudebec, 65.

7. Watering-Places between Dieppe and Le Havre ... 65
I. From Rouen (Paris) to St. Valery-en-Caux and to

Veules 65

II. From Rouen (Paris) to Veulettes. LesPetites Dalles 66

III. From Rouen (Paris) to Fecamp 67

Valmont. From Fecamp to Etretat, 69.

IV. From Rouen (Paris) to Etretat 69

Yport; Vaucottes, 69. — From Etretat to Le Havre, 71.

8. From Paris to Cambrai 71

a. Via Creil, St. Quentin, and Busigny 71

b. Via Creil, St. Just, and Pe'ronne 71

From Montdidier to Albert, 72. — From Cambrai to
Douai; to Bavay (Dour), 74.

9. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes . . 74

From Douai to Orchies and Tournai ; to Pont-a-Marcq, 78.
— From Somain to P^ruwelz via Anzin, 78. — Walks
and Excursions near Valenciennes, 82. — From Valen-
ciennes to IMaubeuge; to Mons, 82.

10. From Arras (Paris) to Dunkirk 82

From Bergues to Hondschoote, 83. — Malo-les-Bains.
From Dunkirk to Furnes, 86.

11. From Douai and Valenciennes to Lille and Courtrai . 86
I. From Douai to Lille 86

II. From Valenciennes to Lille 86

From St. Amand to Blanc-Misseron ; to Tournai, 87.

III. From Lille to Courtrai 87

From Tourcoing to Menin, 88.

12. Lille 88

From Lille to Tournai; to B^thune-, to Tpres, 97.

13. From Calais to Chalons-sur-Marne (Bale) via Amiens,

Laon, and Rheims 97

14. From Calais to Nancy (Strassburg) via Lille, Valen-

ciennes, Hirson, and Longuyon 99

From Armentieres to Berguette and to Comines, 99. —
From Hirson to Amagne-Lucquy, 100.

15. From Paris to Namur (Liege, Cologne) 100

a. Via St. Quentin and Maubeuge (Mons-Brussels) . . 100

From Chantilly to Cr^py-en-Valois. 101. — From Com-
piegne to Roye ; to Soissons; to Villers-Cotterets via
Pierrefonds ; to Crepy-en-Valois; to Amiens, 102, 103. —
From Chauny to Laon via Coucy- le -Chateau, 104. —
From St. Quentin to Guise; to Koisel, 106. — From
Busigny to Hirson, 106. — From Le Cdteau to Cambrai ;

CALAIS. 1. Route.

to Valenciennes, 106. — FromMaubeuge to Mons (Brus-
sels); to Hirson, 107.

b. Via Soissons, Laoii, and Anor 108

From Anizy to Premontre, 108. — From Laon to Li art;
to Valenciennes, 110.

c. Via Soissons, Rheims, and Mezieres Ill

Monthermd and its Environs; the Valley of the Semoy,
112. — From Revin to Rocroi, 113. — From Dinant to
Rochefort. Han-sur-Lesse, 114.

16. From Paris to Rheims 114

a. Via Meaux and La Ferte-Milon 114

b. Via Soissons 115

c. Via Epernay 117

17. Rheims 118

18. From Paris to Metz 122

a. Via Chalons and Frouard 122

From Pompey to Nomeny, 123.

b. Via Chalons and Verdun 124

From Conflans-Jarny to Briey; to Homecuurt-Joeuf, 126.
e. Via Rheims and Verdun 126

d. Via Rheims and Mezieres-Charleville 127

From Bazanconrt to Challerange, 127. — From Amagne-
Lucquy to Revigny. Apremont, 127. — From Sedan
to Bouillon; to Lerouville (Nancy), 131. — From Mont-
medy to Virton, 132. — From Longuyon to Luxembourg,
132. — From Longuyon to Nancy, 133. — Battlefields at
Metz, 135. — From Metz to Strassburg, 135.

19. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg) 136

I. From Paris to Chalons-sur-Marne 136

From Bondy to Aulnay-les-Bondy, 136. — From Lagny
to Villeneuve-le-Comte. Jouarre, 137. — From Chateau-
Thierry to Romilly, 138. — From Epernay to La Fere-
Champenoise (Romilly), 139.

II. From Chalons-sur-Marne to Nancy 142

From Vitry-le-Francois to .Jessains, 142. — From Revigny
toSt. Dizier; to Haironville; to Triaucourt, etc., 143. —
From Bar-le-Duc to Clermont-en-Argonne, 144.

20. Nancy UQ

From Nancy to Chateau-Salins (Vie; Saargemiind), 152.'

1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris.

188 M. to 212 M. Railway in 33/4-II hrs., according to the route selected.
The shortest route is via Boulogne, Abbeville, and Creil (fares 33 fr. 15,
22 fr. 40, 14 fr. 65 c); the longest, seldom taken, via Hazebrouck and Arras
(fares 35 fr. 50 c., 24 fr., 15 fr. 65 c.). The alternative routes given below
may be combined to suit individual convenience. — From London to Calais,
see p. xiii.

Calais. — Stations. Calais- Maritime (PI. C, 2), for the English traffic ;
Calais- Ville, or Gave Centrale (PI. B, 5), for all trains except those of the
Anvin line; Calais-Marie^ or Ancienne Gave (PI. B, 3), not used for passenger
traffic; Gare des Fontinettes (Pi. B, 7); and Calais- St- Pierre (PI. A, 6), for the
Anvin line.

4 Route 1. CALAIS. From Calais

Hotels. Grand Hotel, Place Richelieu (PL B, 4), new, B, IV4, dej. 21/2,
D. 3 fr. ; Terminus, at tiie Gare Maritime; Buffet - Hotel , at the Gare
Centrales de Flandke, Rue Leveux (PL B, 4); Dessin, Rue Amiral-Cour-
bet 5 (PL C, 3) ; du Sauvage, Rue de Guise 22 ; du Commerce, Rue Royale 51
(PL B, 4); DE LoNDKES, Rue de la Cloche 7 (PL B, 3). — Cafes. Bellevue,
de France^ du Globe, Place d'Armes; Grand Caf^, at St. Pierre, corner of
the Boulevard Jacquart and the Rue Lafayette.

Post & Telegraph Offices, Place Richelieu (Calais; PL B, 4) and Boule-
vard Pasteur (St Pierre; PL C, 6).

Cabs. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 90 c., 3 pers. 1 fr. 20, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c.;
per hour, IV2, 2, or 2V2 fr- i double fare after 11 p.m.

Tramways. 1. From the Place d'Armes (PL B, C, 3) to the Pont St. Pierre
(PL E, 6). 2. From the Boulevard Jacquart (PL C, 5, 6) to the former Gare
de St. Pierre (PL A, fi). 3. From the Boid. Jacquart to the Gare des Fonti-
nettes (PL B, 7). 4. From the Pont St Pierre (Pi. E, 6) to the Halte St. Pierre
(comp. PL F, 8). 5. From the Place d'Armes (PL B, C, 3) to the Casino (sea-
baths ; PL A, B, 2), in the season. Fares, 10-15 c. — A tramway also runs
from Calais to Gumes, via Pont-du-Leu, Coulogne, lEcluse-Carri-'e, and
Banc-Valois (p. 22; fares 15-60 c).

Steamboat to Dover (for London, p. xiii), thrice daily; fares 13 fr. 15,
10 fr. 60 fr.

British Consul, C. A. Payton., Esq.; Vice-Consul , E. H. Blomefield., Esq.
— U. S. Consul, C. W. Shepard, Esq.

English Church (Holy Trinity), Rue du Moulin-Brule (PL C,6); minister,
Rev. M. H. Umbers., M. A. — Wesleyan Chapel, Rue du Temple. Services
at both at 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m.

Calais, a town witli 56,940 inhab., including St, Pierre-les-
Calais, and a fortress of tlie first class, derives its chief importance
from its harbour and its traffic with England , to which it is the
nearest port on the French coast. The chalk cliffs and castle of
Dover, 18 M. distant, are visible in clear weather. About 260,000
travellers pass through the town annually; and in addition there is
a brisk trade in timber, coal, etc. Calais contains 1500 English
residents, chiefly engaged in its tulle-manufactories (p. 5).

Calais played a prominent part in the early wars between France and
England. Its harbour was the rendezvous for the fleet of the Dauphin Louis,
whose aid had been invited bv the discontented English barons airainst
King .John. In 1346-47, after the battle of Crecy, Edward III. blockaded tlie
town by land and sea and starved it into surrender after a desperate
resistance of eleven months. He consented to spare the town on condition
that six noble citizens sliould place themselves, clad in their shirts and
with halters about their necks, at his absolute disposal; and it was only
by the urgent intercession of his queen, Philippa of Hainault, that he was
induced to spare the lives of the unfortunate men, at whose head was the
patriotic Eustache de St. Pierre. Calais remained in the hands of the
English for two hundred years, in spite of many attempts to retake it, and
became an important mart of English traders. In 155S, however, the Duke
of Guise with 30.000 men succeeded in finally expelling the small English
garrison (500 men) after a siege of seven days. Queen Mary of England
felt the loss of the town so acutely that she asserted the name 'Calais'
would be found engraven on her heart after her death. In 1560 Mary Stuart
set sail from Calais to assume the Scottish crown; and in 1814 Louis XVIII.
landed here on his return to his kingdom. The Spaniards made themselves
masters of Calais in 1596, but the treaty of Vervins in 1598 restored it per-
manently to France.

The Harbour, which is accessible at all states of the tide, has
been more than doubled in size by extensive new works, recently
completed at a cost of 2,400, OOOL The Old Harbour, with the former

^^

I..

r

/'

^ -=^

1 ....

= /?

JIaltc St Pierre,^— > DuiikPidi

to Amiens. CALAIS. 1. Route. 5

railway-station, lies nearest to tlie Place d'Armes; the imposing
*Neto Harbour farther to the E. The new Gare Maritime (PI. C, 2),
or Maritime Station, where passengers from England find the train
for Paris waiting, is situated on the N.E. side of the Avant-Port
(PI. B, C, 2), and is connected by a short branch-line skirting the
new harbour with the Gare Centrale (see below).

The old Hotel de Ville (PI. B, C, 3), in the Place d'Armes, the
centre of the old town, was erected in 1740 on the site of a former
building of which the tower still remains (15th cent.). It is adorned
with bronze busts (1636) of the Due de Guise, 'liberateurde Calais en
1558', and Richelieu, the founder of the citadel in 1634. On the bal-
cony is a bust of Eustache de St. Pierre. The Hotel de Ville contains
a small Musee (paintings, antiquities, natural history, etc.) ; open 10
to 4 or 5 on Tues., Thurs., Sat., Sun., and holidays. — To the left
is a massive square Watch Tower, the foundation of which is
referred to 810, and which was used as a lighthouse until 1848.

The church of Notre-Dame (PL C, 4), approached by the street
of the same name leading to the E. from the Place d'Armes, was
almost completely rebuilt during the P^nglish occupation of the
town, and it has undergone considerable renovation since 1866,
The N. side is partly concealed by a reservoir; the spire is un-
pleasing. The high -altar, with a fine reredos in Italian marble
(1624-28), decorated with statues, high reliefs, and an Assumption
by Seghers, the iron choir-screen, and a Descent from the Cross by
Rubens (?), in the left transept, are the chief objects of interest
in the interior.

At the end of the Rue de Guise, which begins to the left of the
Hotel de Ville, is the Hotel de Guise (PL B, C, 4), in the English
Tudor style, originally founded by Edward III. as a guildhouse for
the woolstaplers , and presented to the Duke of Guise after his
capture of the town. The Place Richelieu leads hence towards the
Gare Centrale, passing the Jardin Richelieu (PL C, 4), in which a
Monumsnt to Eustache de St. Pierre and his Companions (p. 4), by
Rodin, was erected in 1895. On the opposite side of the street is
the Hotel des Pastes, with the Public Librarxj (20,000 vols.) on the
first floor (open daily, except Sun., 10-1 and 4-9; closed in Sept.).

The Sea-Bathing Establishment (PL A, B, 2) is situated beyond the old
harbour. When the tide is out the water is very shallow for a long
distance from the shore.

The Gare Centrale (PL B, 5), or principal railway-station, lies
between Calais proper and St. Pierre, and has approaches from
both. Near it, on the St. Pierre side, are a pretty Park and the
Place Centrale (PL C, 5), in which a new Hotel de Ville is to be
erected.

St. Pierre-les-Calais is the industrial and commercial part of
Calais. Its prosperity is due chiefly to its extensive manufacture
of tulle and lace, an industry which was introduced from Notting-
ham in 1818. The Church of St. Pierre (PLD, 7), built in 1862-70

6 Route 1. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. From Calais

in the style of the 13th cent., and the Hotel de Vilie (1858-64) are
both situated in the Place Crevecceur. The Church of the Sacred
Heart (PI. B, 6) is a Gothic church of still more recent date.

From Calais to Dunkirk, 29 M., railway in I-IV2 hr. (fares 5 fr. 25,
3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 30 c). This branch skirts the town on the E. and S.E.,
passing the suburban stations of Fontinettes and St. Pierre. The district
traversed is flat and intersected by canals. — 15 M. Gravelines (Casino
Hotel; des Messageries; du Commerce)., an uninteresting town with 5900 in-
hab., is strongly fortified and has a port on the -4a, near its embouchure in
the North Sea. In the middle ages it belonged to the Counts of Flanders.
In 1558 the French were defeated on the sands of Gravelines by the
Spaniards under Egmont, who was assisted by the broadsides of an English
fleet of ten sail; but exactly one hundred years later the town was finally
joined to France. The Spanish Armada was defeated and put to flight by
the English fleet in 1588 off Gravelines. A large quantity of eggs and similar
produce is annually shipped to England from this port. — 18'/2 M. Bour-
bourg is the junction for the line from Watten to Gravelines (p. 15). 21 M.
Loon-Plage is an unpretending bathing-place. — At (28 M.) Coudekerqve-
Branche our line coalesces with the line from Hazebrouck (p. 17). — 29 M.
Dunkirk^ see p. 83.

I. From Calais to Amiens.

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville.

102 M. (IO33/4 M. from the Gare Maritime). Kailwat in 2-573 hrs.

(fares 18 fr. 60, 12 fr. 55, 8 fr. 15 c. ; or 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 30 c). —

From Boulogne to Amiens, 76V2 M., in 13/4-3'/4 hrs. (fares 14 fr., 9 fr. 35,

6 fr. 10 c).

After leaving Calais we pass (1 1/4 M.) Les Fontinettes and (1 1/2 M.)
St. Pierre (see ahovel, with its handsome tower, beyond which di-
verges the line to Anvin (p. 22). — 41/2 M. Frethun. — As the train
approaches (10 M.) Caffiers, we enjoy a fine view to the left. —
151/2 M. Marquise (Grand Cerfj, a small town with important iron
foundries and marble-quarries, is situated in the 'Valine Heureuse',
a favourite point for excursions from Boulogne.

About 51/2 M. and 7 M. to the W. are the small sea-baths of Amble-
ieiise and Audresselles, at the former of which James II. landed in 1639 on
his flight from England. About 51/2 M. to the N. lies Wissant (Hotel des
Bains), another small sea-bathing place, between Cap Gris-Nez and Cap
Blanc-Nez.

21 1/2 M. Wimille- Wimereux. At Wimereux (Hotel de la Manche ;
des Bains; sea-baths) is a ruined harbour, excavated in 1803 at
Napoleon I.'s orders. — The train now comes in sight of the Colonne
de la Grande Arm^e, marking the situation of Napoleon's camp
(p. 10). Beyond a tunnel, '/o M. long, we enter the station of —

251/2 M. Boulogne-Tintelleries (see below), where passengers to
Boulogne by through - trains to and from Amiens alight. Other
trains pass through another tunnel, cross the Liane by means of a
curved viaduct, and enter the Grande Gare of —

251/2 M. Boulogne-Sur-Mer. — Stations. Grande Gar« (PI. D, E, 4),
or central station, on the left bank of the Liane, near the Arriere Port;
Gare Maritime (PI. D, 2), a little to the N., fur the English traffic; Boulogne-
Tintelleries (PI. F, 2), for the express trains between Calais and Paris.

Hotels, ^'ear the baths: Hotkl ues Bains dk Mek (PI. a; D. 1), D.

7 fr.5 SouTH-EASTiiRN HoTEL (PI. a; D, 1), enlarged in 1897 •, dk la Plage

A i B

@yjLO)@NJi s.i.

1 : 16,000

Urave et imprinie par

Paris '* S^ OmET

Wagner i Deljes, Leipzig.

to Amiens. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 1. Route. 7

(PL a; D, 1): de la Marine (PI. b; D, 2), all in the Boul. Ste. Beuve ;
DE Folkestone (PI. c; D, 2), Quai Gambetta 74; de Paris (PI. d; D, 2),
Hot. Windsor (PI. e; D, 2), Quai Gambetta (Nos. 66 & 62); Berry, Rue
de Boston 90, at the end next the douane (PI. D, 2). — In the town:
Hotel des Bains et de Bellevue (PI. f; E, 3), Quai Gambetta and Rue
Victor Hugo 69, R. 3-6, L. & A. IV2, B. IV2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 8-15 fr.;
Christol (PI, g;E, 3), Place Frederic Sauvage 14, near the station; Meu-
RiOE et de lTnivers (PI. i, k ^ E, 2-3), Rue Victor Hugo (Nos. 26 & 35), R. 2-5,
pens. 10-12, omn. 1/2 fr-5 Continental (PI. m; E, 3), Rue Victor Hugo 25;
do Louvre (PI. n; D, 3), near the railway-station; British Hotel (PI. 1;
E, 3), Rue Faidherbe 27, etc. There are also numerous Maisons MeubUes^
Pensions, and furnished apartments.

Restaurants. Casino, d^j. 4, D. 5 fr. ; Edtel de Flandre, Quai Gam-
betta 52, dej. 2, D. 2V2 fr.; 'H6tel du Port, Quai Gambetta 34, dej. 21/2, D.
3 fr. ; others in the Rue Monsigny, near the theatre; also at the above-
named hotels and at the railway-stations.

Cafes. Or. Cafi de Boulogne, Continental, Rue Adolphe Thiers 63 and
53 ; others in the Rue Monsigny, etc.

Cabs. From 6 a.m. to midnight, per drive I'/a fr., per hour 2 fr.: from
midnight to 6 a.m. 2 fr. and 2V2 fr. ; outside the town, per hour 2V2 fr.

Tramway to theEtablissement des Bains from the Coin-Menteur (PI. E,3)
10 c, from the Place Dalton (PI. F, 3) 15 c.

Steamboat to Folkestone (for London, see p. xiii), twice daily; fares
about 12 fr. 60, 10 fr. 10 c — Excursion steamers on Sun. and holidays in
summer, 75 c. for trip of 1 hour.

Bathing Establishment on the beach on the right bank of the Liane
(p. 8). Sea-bath, incl. machine, 1 fr. ; bath in the swimming-bath 50 c.;
subscription for 12 baths 9 fr. or 51/2 fr. ; ladies' bathing costumes 25 c,
drawers 15 c, peignoirs 10 or 25 c., towel 5 or 10 c. — Hot Baths, 1 fr.

Casino. Admission, per day 1 fr., week 10, fortnight 17, month 29 fr. ;
double tickets 19, 32, or 54 fr., etc. Adm. to Theatre, 4 fr. Subscription
to both (16 theatrical performances), 22, 39, or 67 fr. ; double ticket 39, 67,
111 fr. ; etc. See the gratuitous 'Guide Programme'.

Golf Links (18 holes) at Mayville.

Post & Telegraph Offices (PL E, 3), Rue du Pot-d'Etain 12.

British Vice-Consul, H. F. Farmer, Esq., Rue Wissocq 14. — American
Consul, Paul Molenx, Rue de la Gare 8. — Bankers. Banque de France,
Rue Victor Hugo 46; SociM Ginirale. Rue Faidherbe 73; Adam d: Co., Rue
Victor Hugo 6 (also Lloyd's agents). — Merridew^s Library, Rue Victor
Hugo 60.

Physicians. Dr. Carr , Rue Faidherbe 69; Dr. Philip, Rue Victor
Hugo 33; Dr. Docker, homeopath, Rue Marignan 13. — Dentists. Mr. Hill-
man, Rue Ad. Thiers 29; Mr. Manion, Grande Rue 14; Mr. McConaghy,
Rue Victor Hugo 44.

English Churches. Holy Trinity, Rue de la Lampe ; Rev. James Wilson,
M. A. ; services at 11 and 7.30. — St. Johns, Rue des Vieillards ; Rev. W.
W. King Ormsby. — Ifew Wesley an Methodist Church, Grande Rue 70; Rev.
J. Gaskin ; services at 11 and 7.

Boulogne-sur-Mer, so called to distinguish it from Boulogne-sur-
Seiue near Paris, the Bononia (?) or Gessoriacum of the Romans, is
an important seaport and commercial town , situated on the Liane,
with a population of 46,800, of whom over 1000 are English resi-
dents. Its numerous schools enjoy a high reputation. Boulogne is
an important herring-port and exports large quantities of salted
fish; and it is the chief centre in France for the manufacture of
steel pens, introduced from England in 1846. The town is divided
into the Haute Ville, or old town on the height to the E., and

8 Route 1. BOULOGNE-SUR-M]?.R. From Calais

the much larger Basse Ville, including the harbour. The part of the
Basse Ville on the left or W. bank of the Liana, on -which is the
principal railway-station (see below) , is known as Capecure. Its
church of St. Vincent-de-Paul (Pl.D, 4, 5) is a modern Gothic edifice
in the style of the 13th century.

The Harbour, especially the E. part near the Douane (PL D, 2),
presents a very busy scene. Boulogne stands next to Marseilles, Le
Havre, and Bordeaux among the seaports of France. Its commercial
importance is increasing, and in 1879 extensive operations were
begun with the view of enlarging the port, but their completion
has been deferred owing to the lack of funds. Within the port new
stone quays have been built and the harbour deepened to enable
vessels to arrive and start at low water. The Bassin a fiot^ a large
semicircular basin on the left bank of the Liane, was constructed by
Napoleon to accommodate the flotilla which was to convey his troops
to England (see p. 10). The Building Slips and the Batteries defend-
ing the entrance to the harbour are both situated on the W. bank.
The West Pier stretches into the sea for a distance of 765 yds.

The Gare Maritime [PL D, 2), on the quay of the Folkestone
steamers (p. 7), is connected with the principal liailway Station
(PL D, E, 4) by a short branch-line. On the right bank of the
Liane, immediately beyond the Pont Marguet (PL E, 3), is a bronze
statue, by Lafrance, of. Frederic Sauvage (Pl.E, 3), who was among
the first to use screw propellers for steamboats. — Thence the Quai
Gambetta leads to the N. to the Halle (PL E, 3), in the small square
adjoining which is a statue of Edtuard Jenner (1749-1823), the dis-
coverer of vaccination, by Eug. Paul.

The Fish Market is held early in the morning in the Halle (PI. E, 3).
The fishermen and their families occupy a separate quarter ('la Beurriere'')
on the W. side of the town, and form one-tenth of the population. They
partly adhere to the picturesque costume of their ancestors, and they differ
somewhat in character and customs from the other inhabitants of the town.

Farther along the busy quay is the Douane (PL D, 2), or custom
house, near which is a large salt-warehouse.

The *Etablissem€nt de Bains, with its Garden and handsome
Casino (PL D, 1, 2), occupies the rest of the space between the
E. Pier and the cliffs. The garden is open to visitors , but non-
subscribers pay 20 c. for admission on concert- days (subscrip.,
see p. 7). The beach is sandy and very hot in summer. Tlie
Etablissement contains a swimming-bath for use when the sea is
too rough for bathing. — The foot of the cliffs, beyond the casino,
is skirted by the Boulevard Ste. Beuve. named in honour of the
eminent critic (1819-55), who was born at Boulogne.

The East Pier, or Jetee de I' Est (PL B, C, 1, 2), which extends
650 yds. into the sea, is a favourite promenade, especially at full
tide, when the steamers enter or leave the port, and on summer even-
ings. In clear weather the South Foreland lights are visible ; the
revolving white and red light to the N. at Cap Gris-Nez is very di-

to Amiens. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 1 . Route. 9

stinct. — On the cliff is the ruined Tour d'Odre ('Turris ardens';
PL D, 1), a Roman beacon-tower, built under Caligula in 40 A.D.
— The modern Gothic church of St. Pierre-des-Marins (PL E, 2),
with a lofty spire, is in the style of the 14th century.

We now retrace our steps to visit the town. The Rue Victor
Hugo (PL E, 3), running almost parallel with the harbour, and its
continuation, the Rue Nationale, contain the principal shops. The
Rue Adolphe Thiers^ running parallel to the Rue Victor Hugo, begins
at the Place Dalton (PL F, 3), in which rises the church of St.
Nicholas., of the 17-18th centuries. The Graride Rue ascends from
this point to the Haute Ville.

The Museum (PL F, 3), in the Grande Rue, contains ethnograph-
ical and historical collections, some Egyptian antiquities, and a few
pictures (open in summer daily, except Tues., 11-4; in winter on
Sun., Wed., Thurs., and Sat.). The Public Library^ on the second
floor, contains 55,000 vols, and 300 MSS. (open daily, except
Frid., 10-4).

At the top of the Grande Rue, on the left, is the Sous-Prefecture
(PL F, 3), the pretty Square in front of which is adorned with a
colossal bust of Henri II., by David, commemorating the restoration
of the town to France by the English in the reign of that monarch
(1550). In the Boulevard Mariette, farther on, is a bronze statue of
Aug. Mariette (PL G, 2), the eminent Egyptologist, who was a native
of Boulogne (1821-81), by Jacquemart. A little to the N. is a public
park known as Les Tintelleries (PL F, 2), where concerts are given
in summer. A monument in this park, by Thomas, commemorates
the first successful balloon- voyage from France to lilngland, achieved
in 1886 by Fr. Lhoste. Close by is the Boulogne -Tintelleries Station
(p. 6) on the line to Calais.

The Haute Ville (PL F, G, 2, 3) is enclosed by ramparts, dating
from the 13th cent., 430yds. long, 350yds. broad, and flanked with
round turrets, 55 ft. high. Of its four gateways, the Porte des Dunes,
the Porte Gayole, and the Porte de Calais, are still extant, and the
S.W. gate has also been re-opened for foot-passengers. — AVe enter
by the Porte des Dunes, flanked by two massive round towers, within
which, to the left, are situated the modern Palais de Justice (PL F, 3)
and (a'little farther on) the Hotel de Ville (PL G, 3), erected in 1734
on the site of an ancient castle, where the crusader Godfrey de Bouil-
lon was born in 1065.

In the Rue de Lille, which leads from the Hotel de Ville to the
Porte de Calais, is the Cathedral ofNotre-Dame (PL G, 2), a building
in the degraded Italian style, erected in 1827-66 on the site of a
Gothic church which was destroyed in 1793. The lantern sur-
mounting the dome is crowned with a colossal statue of the Virgin,
which forms the most conspicuous point in the whole town. Ex-
tensive *View, comprising the 'dunes', the plateau traversed by the
railway to Calais, in the foreground Napoleon's Column, and in the

10 Route 1. MONTREUIL-SUR-MER. From Calais

distance, in clear weather, the white cliffs of the English coast.
The entrance to the staircase is by a door to the right, in the interior
of the church (adm. 1 fr. ; custodian at the S. portal).

The interior contains an elaborate high - altar, executed in Rome at
the expense of Prince Torlonia; a fine monument to Mgr. HaiFreingue ;
six chapels adorned with frescoes by Soulacroix-, and a Lady Chapel, which
is resorted to by pilgrims. The Crypt (adm. 1 fr.), dating partly from the
12th cent., contains some old tombs and some antiquities found in digging
the foundations of the church.

The Chateau (PL G, 2), in which Louis Napoleon was confined
after the attempted insurrection of 1840, is the ancient citadel of
Boulogne, and dates from the 13th century. It is now converted
into barracks and an artillery depot (no admission). — The Cemetery
of the Haute Yille (beyond PI. G, 2) contains the graves of Sir
Harris Nicolas, Basil Montague, and numerous other Englishmen.

In 1804 Napoleon I. assembled an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000
cavalry on the table-land to the N. of Boulogne, under the command of
Marshals Soult, Ney, Davoust, and Victor, and collected in the harbour
a flotilla of 2413 craft of various dimensions, for the purpose of invading
England and establishing a republic there. The troops were admirably
drilled, and only awaited the arrival of the fleets from Antwerp, Brest,
Cadiz, and the harbours of the Mediterranean, which had been in the
course of formation for several years for this express purpose. Their
union was prevented by the English fleet under Sir Robert Calder; and
the victory of Nelson at Trafalgar, on 22nd Oct., 1805, completed the
discomfiture of the undertaking.

Nai'oleon''s Column, or the Colonne de la Grande- Aitride, a Doric column,
constructed by Marquise, 172 ft. in height, situated 2 M. from Boulogne on
the road to Calais (comp. PI. G, 1), was founded in 1804 to commemorate
the expedition against England, the first stone being laid by Marshal Soult
in the presence of the whole army. The first empire left the monument
unfinished, and in 1821 Louis XVIII. caused the work to be resumed,
intending that the column should commemorate the restoration of the
Bourbons; but it was not completed till 1841, when its original destination
was revived. The summit is occupied by a statue of the emperor, one
of Bosio's finest works. The pedestal is adorned with reliefs in bronze,
representing emblems of war. The view from the top resembles that
from Notre-Dame (custodian 1/2 fr.). Model in the museum (p. 9).

Fkom Boulogne to St. Omer, 40 M., railway in 11/3-2 hrs. tfares 6 fr.
65, 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 20 c). — This line diverges to the left from that to
Paris at (5^/2 M.) Hesdigneul, the third station (p. 11), and ascends the
pretty valley of the Liane. — 10 M. Samer, with 2160 inhab. •, 157-2 M.
Desvres , with 4700 inhab., formerly fortitied. The railway skirts a range
of picturesque hills. — 20 M. Lottinghem carries on the active preparation
of phosphates, exported to England and Brittany for manure. — 2S1/2 M. Lum-
bres, the junction of the line from Calais to Anvin (p. 23); 37 M. Argues,
the junction of a line to Berguette (p. 18). We then pass under the canal
from Aire to St. Omer beside the hydraulic lift (p. 17; to the left), and
join the line from Calais via Arras. — 40 M. St. Omer, see p. 15.

From Boulogne to Arras, 79 M., railway in 21/2-374 hrs. (fares 14 fr.
45, 9fr. 70, 6fr. 30 c.). — At (171/2 M.) Etaples (p. 11) this line diverges
from the railway to Amiens.

23i/'2 M. Montreuil-sur-Mer CHdtel de France)., an ancient little town
with 3560 inhab., is situated on a bill now 9 M. from the sea, though, as
the name indicates, it was formerly on the coast. Montreuil was at one
time fortified, and traces of its citadel still remain. The Churchi» a hand-
some Gothic building, and the Hospital., recently rebuilt, has a fine chapel
in the style of the 16th century. — About II/2 M. from the town, at the

to Amiens. BEROK. 1. Route. 11

village of Neuville-sous-AIontreuil^ is the Chartreuse de Neuville or de Notre-
Dame-des-Pr4s, a large Carthusian monastery resembling the Grande Char-
treuse near Grenoble. The convent of the order, founded here in the 14th
cent., -was partly destroyed and sold at the Revolution, but was repur-
chased and almost completely rebuilt in 1872-75 in the Gotbic style. Ladies
are not admitted except to a waiting-room and chapel at the entrance,
but gentlemen are shown the large cbapel, the refectory, etc., and may
even sleep in the convent, sharing the frugal meals and attending, if they
choose, the religious services of the monks. — From Montreuil-sur-Mer a
line runs to (10 M.) Rang-du-Fliers- Verton (see below), and another to (467;^ M.)
Aire-sur-la-Lys (p. 17) via (25 M.) Fruges (p. 23) and (39 M.) Tltirouanm., a large
village to the S. of the site of the important mediseval town of that name
(the Taruenna of antiquity), which was fortified by Francis I. but destroyed
by Charles V. in 1553 in revenge for the loss of the 'three bishoprics'
(1552).

Beyond Montreuil the Arras line ascends the valley of the Canche to
(38 M.) Hesdin (Hotel de France), a small town founded by Charles V. in
1554, after the destruction of Vieil Hesdin. 2Vi M. farther up the valley.
From Hesdin roads lead to (12 M.) Crecy (p. 13) and to Agineourt (p. 23).
— 43 M. Blangy-svr-Ternoise., 31/2 M. to the S.E. of Agineourt (p. 23). —
49 M. Anvin (p. 23). 52 M. Wavrans. 55 M. St. Pol (p. 23). — The train
ascends the valley of the Scarpe. — 70 M. Mont- Saint- El oi., a village on a
height to the right, with a church with two tall towers (18th cent.) and
other relics of an ancient abbey. The railway then turns to the left, and
joins the line from Paris to Arras. — 79 M. Arras^ see p. 19.

Quitting Boulogne, the train traverses the valley of the Liane.
At (263/4 M.) Outreau the line from the Grande Gare joins that from
Boulogne-Tintelleries (p. 6). To the left are the town of Boulogne
and the hridge over the Liane on the line to Calais. Several large
cement-works are passed. 28Y2 ^- Pont-de-Briques ; 31 M. Hesdig-
neul (junction for St. Omer, see p. 10). From (42V2 M.) Etaples
(Hot. de la Gare ; Rendezvous des Artistes), the junction for Arras
(see p. 10), a diligence plies 8 times daily to (81/2 M.) Le Touquet
or Paris-Plage [Grand Hotel; des Bains; de Paris), a bathing-place
of recent origin. — The train crosses the Baie de la Canche by a
viaduct. 461/2 M. St. Josse. — 49^/2 M. Rang-du-Fliers- Verton.

Fkom Rang-du-Flieks-Verton to Bekck, 41/2 M., railway in 14-18 min.
(fares 70, 55, 40 c). Berck {Gr. Hotel de Berck et de la Plage, de Londres,
de France et des Bains, Grand Hdiel, Hdt. de Paris, Continental, etc.), a small
sea-bathing place with 7000 inhab., a Kursaal, etc., is rapidly growing in
popularity. Two Hospitals for children have been built in this healthy spot.

The name of (53^/2 M.) Conchil-le-Temple is a reminiscence of
the Knights Templar. The Authie is crossed. 56 M. Quend-Fort-
Mahon is the station ion Fort Mahon and St-Quentin- Plage , two
small bathing-places of recent formation. — 60 M. Rue (Hot. des
Voyageurs), a small town, injured by the encroachments of the
Authie and the Male. The beautiful Chapelle du St. Esprit, adjoining
the church, is a relic of an older church dating from the 13-16thcent.

66 M. Noyelles, situated in the midst of a dreary expanse of
sand, is connected by a branch-railway with (7 M.) Forest-VAbbaye
(p.l3). In the vicinity is the ford otBianchetaque, where Edward III.
crossed the Somme before the battle of Cre'cy (see p. 14).

A branch-railway runs from Noyelles, along an embankment washed
by the sea at high tide, to (4 M.) St.Valery-sur-Somme (*H6tel de France),
a town with 3550 inhabitants. From this little port William the Conqueror

12 Route 1. ABBEVILLE. From Calais

set sail for England on Sept. 27tli, 1066. Some of the ancient fortifications
still remain. At low tide the wet sands at the mouth of the Somme may
be crossed on foot (two feiries, 20 and 15 c.) to (3/^ hr.) Le Crotoy (see
below). — From St. Valery the line goes on to (8V2 M.) Cayeux (Hot. des
Bains; du Commerce), a frequented sea-bathing resort.

Another branch-railway runs from Noyelles to (5 M.) Le Crotoy
{Hotel Delant; de la Marine; du Crotoy)^ an unpretending sea-bathing place,
with a small harbour and some remains of its old fortifications.

To the right as we proceed stretches the wide "bay at the mouth
of the Somme, crossed by the branch-line to St. Valery (see above).
Beyond (69 M.) Port-le-6rand we cross the canalized Somme.

74 M. Abbeville (^Hottl de France, Rue de l'H6tel-de-Ville:
de la Te.te-de-Boeu(\ Rue St. Gilles ; *de la Gare; Cafes in the Place
de I'Amiral-Courbet), an ancient fortress and an important cloth-
manufacturing town, with 19,670 inhab., is situated on the Somme,
on which there is a small harbour.

Abbeville was of sufficient importance under Hugh Capet to receive
a girdle of ramparts , and it was the rendezvous for the leaders of the
lirst two crusades. At the marriage of Eleanor of Castile to Edward I.
in 1272 it passed to England, and it remained with little interruption
under English dominion for nearly 200 years. After a short period under
the dukes of Burgundy , it fell finally to France in 1477. In 1514 the
marriage of Louis XII. with Mary Tudor, sister of Henry VIII., was cele-
brated at Abbeville-, and in 1527 Wolsey and Francis I. signed here their
alliance against Charles V.

The most interesting building in the town is the Church of
St. Vulfran, a Gothic edifice of the 15th and 16th cent., completed
in the 17th cent, on a smaller scale. The handsome facade has two
towers terminating in platforms, and three portals in the Renais-
sance style, with richly decorated doors, though deprived of many
of their statues. The exterior of the nave is adorned with elegant
buttresses and two open galleries with balustrades. The windows
are surmounted by truncated gables. To the N. is a tower adjoining
a wall, which was intended, according to the original plan, to form
part of the transept.

The effect of the interior is much less pleasing than that of the ex-
terior. The nave is narrow, and the arches, injured by the sinking of
the foundations, have required to be extraneously supported. Contrary
to the usual rule, the choir is the lea'^t ancient part, dating from the
17th century. The rich triforium in the Flamboyant style is remarkable.
The first chapel on the left has a fine Renaissance altar-piece, and the
third chapels on each side contain good sculptures (15-I6th cent.). The
Chapelle de Notre Dame des Merciers, at the end of the S. aisle, contains
a large gilded Gothic canopy, in front of a recess filled by a sculptured
group of the Madonna upon clouds, surrounded with angels. The altar
at the end of the choir has a curious antependium (15th cent.) painted on
a gold ground. In the sacristy is a silver Madonna of 1621 on a pedestal
of 1568; also a 16th cent, evangelium.

The Hotel Dieu, behind the cliurch. partly dates from the 14-15th
centuries. — The Place de rAmiral-Courbet, farther on, is embel-
lished with a monument to Admir<il Courbet (1819-85), who was a
native of the town, by Falguiere andMercie. — Lesueur, the composer
(1760-1837), who was born near Abbeville, is commemorated by a
bronze statue, by Rochet, in the Place St. Pierre.

to Amiens.

ST. RIQUIER. l.L'diie. 13

In the pul)lic garden at the end of this Place is the Musee d' Ab-
beville et du Ponthieu (open on Thurs., Sun., and holidays, 12 to 4
or 5; at other times on application), containing natural history
collections, paintings, engravings, sculptures, etc. The Public Lib-
rary, in an adjoining building, contains 38,000 vols, and 230 MSS.
— The Eglise du St. Sepulcre, to the left from the Place St. Pierre,
dates from the 15th century.

The Rue Boucher-de-Perthes, the first on the left as we quit the
Place de I'Amiral-Courbet by the Rue St. Gilles, is called after
the* learned geologist and antiquarian of thalt name (1788-1868),
whose house , in this street, is now occupied by the small Musee
Boucher-de-Perthes^ consisting of a library and collections of paint-
ings, sculpture, farniture, porcelain, botanical specimens, flint axe-
heads, and prehistoric implements ijii bone (adm. as to the preced-
ing Musee; closed on Mon.).

The church of St. Gilles, at the end of the Rue St. Gilles,
possesses a beautiful Flamboyant portal. No. 83 in this street is a
handsome old house with caryatides, bas-reliefs, etc.

The Monts de Caubert , to tlie S. of Abbeville, were the site of an
immense Roman camp, capable of accommodating 14 legions, no trace of
which, however, now remains.

From Abbeville to BfeTHUNE, 581/2 M., railway in 2-21/2 hrs. (fares
10 fr. 55, 7 fr. 10, 4 fr. 65 c). — The line crosses the railway from Abbe-
ville to Amiens, and skirts the ramparts on the S.E. side of the town, near
St. Gilles. — 8 M. St. Riquier (Hotel de VAnge- Gabriel), an ancient town,
was formerly highly celebrated fur its abbey, which was founded towards
the end of the 4th cent, and enjoyed the special favour of Dagobert, Charle-
mngne, and Hugh Capet. It has, however, never recovered from its
frequent destruction at the hands of Normans, Burgundians, French, Ger-
mans, and English. In 1536 a determined attack on the town by the
troops of Charles V. was valorously repulsed, chiefly through the bravery
of the women, who mingled with the soldiers on the walls, encouraging
them to resist. One heroine, named Becquetoille, is said to liave captured
a hostile flag with her own bands. The abbey was rebuilt after a fire
in the 18th cent. ; it is now occupied by a seminary and is comparatively un-
interesting. The adjoining "^Church of St. Riquier is, however, a most notable
example of Gothic architecture in the 15th and 16th centuries. The facade
and W. tower are lavishly adorned with sculpture , though the soft nature
of the stone has unfortunately withstood the ravages of the weather very
poorly. The vaulting of the interior deserves special notice, as do also
some of the statues, the fonts, the bas-reliefs on the walls, the choir-stalls,
and the high-altar, with a large wooden statue of Christ by Girardon.
The Salle de la Tre'sorerie is adorned with ten frescoes from the life of
St. Riquier, with inscriptions in old French, and with a kind of Dance
of Death, entitled 'the Three Dead and the Three Living'. The treasury
is still rich.

20 M. Auxi-le- Chateau (Hot. St. Martin), a small town on the Authie, with
the scanty ruins of a chateau, referred to the 12th century. — 28I/2 BI. Frivent;
381/2 M. St. Pol. For these two stations and the connecting railway, see
p. 23. 43 M. Brias is the junction for Bully-Grenay (p. 18). The railway
now descends the valley of the Clarence. Beyond (57 M.) Fouquereuil we
join the Calais and Arras line, IV4 M. on this side of Bithune (p. 18).

Fkom Abbeville to Dompieeee-sue-Authie (Crecy), 19 M., local rail-
way joining the branch from Noyelles (p. 11) at (IO72 M.) Forest-V Ablmje.
It then traverses the Forest of Criaj to (15 M. 5 I1/3 hr. from Abbeville;
2 fr. 70, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 50 c) Crecy-en-Ponthieu (HCtel du Canon-d'Or), a

I 4 Route 1 . CntCY. From Calais

hamlet famous for the victory won on Aug. 26th, 1346, by Edward III. of
England over Philip of Valois, King of France.

The English army, after marching through Xormandy and threatening
Paris, had been compelled to fall back towards the N.E. before a much superior
force. But after forcing his way over the Somme at the ford of Blanchetaque
(p. 11), Edward III. decided to hazard a battle, and selected a favourable spot.
The English, encamped on the field, took up their position betimes, ate, drank,
and rested, and awaited quietly the onslaught of the French. The latter
marched from Abbeville, but the haughty French nobles brooked no discip-
line, and their advance was disorderly and confused. 'The Englishmen', says
Froissart, 'who were in three 'battles' (divisions) lying on the ground to rest
them, as soon as they saw the Frenchmen approach, they rose upon their
feet, fair and easily, without any haste, and arranged their battles'. ,The
first division was commanded by the Prince of Wales — Edward, the Black
Prince, — assisted by the Earls of Warwick and Oxford ; the second was under
the Earls of Northampton and Arundel ; while the third, commanded by Ed-
ward III., was held as a reserve on a little hill surmounted by a windmill
(only recently destroyed), to the W. of the present vilhige. The French king
sent the Genoese cross-bowmen, about 15,000 in number, forward to the at-
tack. But they were wearied with their march, the afternoon sun shone in
their eyes, and they were awed by the rigid stillness which reigned in the
English ranks until the first flight of bolts from the cross-bows fell among
them. 'Then the English archers stepped forth one pace, and let fly their
arrows so wholly and so thick, that it seemed snow.' The Genoese turned
to flee, but only to be met by the French men-at-arms, who at the com-
mand of the enraged Philip, dashed in among them, cutting them down.
The deadly shower of cloth-yard shafts was kept up by the English; the
armour of the knights was pierced, their horses became unmanageable,
many fell both horse and men, and the confusion spread. The Irish and
Welsh who formed a great part of Edward's forces, armed with long knives,
now forced their way into the melee and, stabbing the French horses,
brought many knights to the ground. In the meantime , the Counts of
Alencon and Flanders at the head of their knights forced their way to
the Black Prince's line and pressed him hard. A message was sent to
Edward III., asking for help. 'Is my son hurt, or dead, or on the earth
felled?' asked the king. 'No, Sire', was the reply, 'but he is hardly matched,
wherefore he hath need of your aid'. 'Return to them that sent yoii,
replied Edward, 'and say to them that they send no more to me for any ad-
venture that falleth, as long as my son is alive-, and also say to them that
they suffer him this day to win his spurs ; for if God be pleased, I will
that this day be his, and the honour thereof, and to them that be about him.'

The French finally gave way and fled, leaving the English masters of
the field. King Philip rode with but five barons to the castle of Labroye,
and thence to Amiens. The slaughter was very great. Froissart says that

II princes, 80 bannerets , 1200 knights, and 30,000 footmen were sb'in on
the French side. One of the eleven princes was the blind King John of
Bohemia, whose crest (the now familiar 'Prince of Wales's Feathers') and
motto ('ich dien') were adopted by the Black Prince. Several of his
knights , fastening his horse's bridle securely to their own , had led him
into the light to 'strike one more good blow'; all were killed, and their
horses were found after the battle still tied together. Varimis estimates
are given of the respective forces on this occasion; the English could not
have numbered more than 25,000, while the French army was about
100,000 strong. After the battle Edward III. continued his march to the
N.E., and laid siege to Calais (p. 4). A traditit)n (probably erroneous)
says that this was the first battle in which cannons were used (on the side
of the English), — To the W. of the village is a cross marking the spot
where the body of John of Bohemia is said to have been found.

Another branch-line runs from Abbeville to (28 31.) Eu (p. 86) and
joins the line to Le Tr^port (p. 37).

On leaving Abbeville, the railway passes beneath the line to
B^thune (p. 13). 851/2 M. Pont-Remy, a large industrial village,

to Amiens. ST. OMER. 1 . Route. 1 5

with SL castle, dating in part from the 14th or 15th cent., which
played an important part in the Hundred Years' War with England.
— 84V2 M. Longpre. The Camp de I'Etoile, 21/2 M. to the E.N.E., is
perhaps the most interesting Roman camp in France.

From Longpb*: to Le Tr6port, 351/2 M., railway in IV2-2V2 t>rs. (fares 6 fr.
40, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 80 c). — 41/2 M. Airaines (Poste), on the river of the same
name, Las two interesting churches. About 2V2 M. from (111/2 M.) Oisemont
is the large Chateau de Eambures, a well-preserved mediseval stronghold.
At (25 M.) Longroy-Gamuches we join the line to Le Treport via Beauvais
(p. 38).

The branch-railway from Longpre to (11 M.) Canaples joins here the
line from Amiens to Doullens, Prevent, etc. (p. 23). Near (7 M.) St-Mger-
l^s-Domart, on this branch-line, is Berteaucourt-les-Bames, with a Roman-
esque abbey-church containing interesting sculptures.

We pass under the line to Canaples. — 89 M. Hangest. — 93 V2 M.
Picquigny , a small town with a ruined castle of the 16th century.
Ahout 13/4 M. to the N.E. lies the Camp de Tirancourt or Grand-
Fort, an ancient Roman camp.

96 M. AlUy-sur-Somme ; 971/2 M. Dreuil. The line now emerges
from the valley of the Somme. — 100^4 M. St. Roch, a suburban sta-
tion for Amiens (p. 25). Traversing two short tunnels, and a cutting,
we now skirt the boulevards on the S. side of (102 M.) Amiens (p. 25).

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras.
I2OV2 M. (I22V4 M. from the Gare Maritime). Eailway in 7-71/2 hrs.
(fares 21 fr. 95, 14 fr. 85, 9 fr. 60 c. or 22 fr. 30, 15 fr. 5, 9 fr. 75 c).

Calais, see p. 3. — 1^4 M. Les Fontinettes (p. 6); 2^/2 M- Pont-
de-Coulogne; 51/2 M. Les Attaques. — The line diverges from that
via Boulogne, crosses the Canal de Guines, skirts the canal from Ard-
res to Gravelines, and crosses the canal from St. Omer to Calais.
To the left is the Pont Sans-Pareil, a bridge built in 1752, with four
branches spanning the two last-named canals. — 71/2 M. Pont-£ Ard-
res, whence a diligence plies to (3 M.) the little town of Ardres,
which has another station on the railway from Calais to Anvin (p. 23).
121/2 M. Audruicq. ~ 2OV2 M. Watten.

A branch - railway runs from Watten to (13 M.) Gravelines (p." 6),
joining the line from Calais to Dunkirk at (9 M.) Bourbourg (p. 6).

A marshy district, intersected by numerous canals, is now traversed.

25 M. St. Omer. — Hotels. Hotel de la Poete-d'Oe et d'Angle-
TEKKE, Rue St. Bertin 13; du Commerce, Rue Notre-Dame 4; *des Vota-
GEDES, Rue dn St. Sdpulcre, unpretending but inexpensive 5 de France,
Grande Place. — Cafes, in the Grande Place. — Post & Telegraph Office,
at the corner of the Rue Allent and Rue de Valliele.

St. Omer is an industrial and commercial town with 21,480 in-
hab., situated in a marshy district on the Aa, which joins the Canal
de Neuf-Fosse near the station.

Founded in the 7th cent, by St.Audomare or Omer, Bishop of Therouanne
(p. 11), the town long formed part of Flanders, and was often besieged, pil-
laged, and burnt. It, however, successfully resisted two attacks by the
English (1337 and 1339) and no less than eight by the French. Louis XIV.
captured the town in 1677, since vyhich date it has belonged to France.
St. Omer, like Boulogne, was made the seat of a bishop in 1559, in place

16 Route 1. ST. OMER. From Calais

of Therouanne; but the see was suppressed in 1801. A number of English
families reside at St. Omer, for purposes of education and retrenchment.

Until recently St. Omer was a fortress of the first class, and the
demolition of the fortifications has made way for extensive alter-
ations, begun in 1892. At present the town is entered from the
station hy means of two gates, the Porte de Lyzel to the left, and
the Porte de Bunkerque to the right. Entering by the former, we
pass the arsenal and a square with a bronze statue of Jacqueline
Robins, a heroine of 1710, resembling Jeanne Hachette of Beau-
vais (p. 33). Farther on are the ruins of St. Berlin, the sole relic
of the powerful abbey founded in 640 by St. Bertin, a monk of
Luxeuil. These consist of an immense tower, 190 ft. high, and nine
arches, which belonged to a church begun in 1326 and finished in
1520, on a site previously occupied by two earlier churches. Chil-
deric III. died in this abbey after 752, and Thomas Becket also
found a temporary asylum here on his way to Pontigny in 1164.

The long Rue St. Bertin leads hence to the centre of the town.
On the left is the College St. Bertin, a handsome modern Gothic erec-
tion in brick. Farther on is the Coste Military Hospital, in a building
erected after various fires (the last in 1826) on the site of a college
founded in 1592 by English Jesuits for the training of the Roman
Catholic youth of Great Britain. Dr. Alban Butler (d. 1773), author
of 'Lives of the Saints', was director of this institution, and Daniel
O'Connell was one of its most famous pnpils. On the right, beyond
the Sous-Prefecture, is the Church of St. Denis, rebuilt in 1706-14,
but still retaining its original tower of the 13th century.

The '-^'Church of Notre-Dame, a large and handsome building dating
chiefly from the 13-15th cent., lies to the left, beyond the end of
the Rue St. Bertin. There are four portals: one on the W., one on
the N. side of the nave, near the massive W. tower (160 ft. high), and
one at each end of the transept. The most elaborate is the S. portal,
the tympanum of which is adorned with a Last Judgment.

The church contains numerous works of art. The chapels which
fringe the nave are enclosed by heavy screens of the 17th and 18th cent.,
and contain good i>ainfings and bas-reliefs. In the S. aisle is a group of
the 13th cent., representing Christ between the Virgin and St. John, known
as the 'Grand Dieu de Tlierouanne' because it was brought from the cath-
edral of that town (p. 11) in 1555. The same aisle contains a Descent from
the Cross by Rubens, spoiled by restoration, and two modern tombs of
ecclesiastics. In the nave, to the left, is the tomb of St. Omer. with bas-
reliefs dating from the IBth cent. ; and to the right, the tomb of Eustache de
Croj (d. 1538), Bishop of Arras, with very interesting ,<tatue and ornamenta-
tion. The organ-loft, restored since its erectiim in the ISth cent., deserves at-
tention. The pulpit and the confessionals are excellent specimens of wood-
carving. In the second chapel on the right: G. de Grayer, Job; in the third,
A. de Vuez, St. Aldegonda receiving her nun's veil from heaven. On the same
side, farther on, are some good modern reliefs. One of the finest parts of
the interior is the Chopelle Notre Dame des Miracles, in the S. transept,
the large gilded altar of whirh (18th century) is surmounted by a wooden
figure of the Virgin, executed in the 12th century. On the right is a paint-
ing of St. George and the dragon , by Ziegler ; and opposite the altar is
Christ before Pilate, a large canvas by Van Opetal. Above the latter are

to Amiens. HAZEBROUCK. 1. Route. 17

three small high reliefs, painted and gilded. On the right side of the choir-
screen (reliefs) is a painting by Van i)yck ('Render unto Casar the things
that are Csesar's") and near it, on one of the pillars, an ex voto offering
of Dean De Lalain^ (d. 1533), consisting of a bas-relief in alabaster and
stone, representing the Hebrew Children in the Fiery Furnace. Opposite is
a fine painting with side wings ; and opposite the apsidal chapel is an ex
voto of Delibourg, Christ descending from the Cross to the altar during a
celebration of the Communion. Adjoining the left side of the choir-screen is
the tomb of St. Erkembode, an archaic (perhaps Byzantine) bas-relief dat-
ing from the 7th or 8th century. The N. transept contains monuments and
coloured and gilded reliefs corresponding to those on the S , a clock of the
16th cent., and a group of the Crucifixion. In the chapel to the right are
some interesting 13th cent, slabs. The left aisle anii its chapels also con-
tain votive offerings and painting.

The Rue Notre-Dame conducts us from the chief portal to the
Grande Place. Here rises the Hotel de Vllle, a modem edifice, which
also contains the Theatre and a small gallery of paintings belonging
to the Musee. The Muse'e itself is installed in the old Hotel du Bail-
lage {_18th cent.), in the same square, to the riglU. It includes collec-
tions of natural history, art, faience, and some ancient and modern
sculptures, including a bronze statue, by Raggi, of tlie Duke of Or-
leans, son of Louis Philippe. The Rue de Dunkirque, which leads
hence straiglit across the town to the station, passes at some distance
to the right of the Church of St. Sepulcre, a building of the 13-I4th
cent., with a tower and spire 170 ft. high. In the interior is an
Entombment by Gasp, de Grayer.

About 1^4 M. to the S.E., on the Canal de Neuf-Fosse', is the Ascenseur
des Fontinettes or d'^Arqties (station, p. 10), a remarkable hydraulic lift,
constructed in 1883-88, by means of which canal-b(>ats are enabled to avoid
five locks and thus to shorten their journey very considerably. The structure
consists mainly of two enormous metal caissons, containing sufficient water
to float the boats, and so connected that when one is filled or emptied the
other rises or falls owing to the difference in weight. The dilference of
level thus surmounted is about 40 ft. At the top the caissons are connected
with a canal carried over the railway.

The Direct Line from St. Omer to (KiV^ M.) Berguette is b^j-z M. shorter
than the railway via Hazebrouck, but is not traversed by trains for Arras.
— At (3 M.) Avques we diverge from the line from St. Omer to Boulogne
(p 10). — 12 M. Aire-sur-la-Lys (Clef d' Or; Hoi. d'Angleterre), a fortified town
with 8i50 inhab., is situated at the confluence of the Lys with three other
streams, and at the junction of three canals. The church of St. Pierre
(15- 18th cent.) has a handsome tower, and is richly decorated in the in-
terior. The Hotel de Ville^ with a belfry, dates from the I8th cent.; the
handsome Hotel du Baillagc or Corps de Garde from the 16th century. —
From Aire to Berck via Montreuil-sur-Mer, see pp. 11, 10.

From St. Omer to Boulogne, see p. 10.

Near (^291/2 M.) Renescure the line to Boulogne (p. 10) diverges
to the right. Our line approaches Hazebrouck from the W., leaving
the railway to Dunkirk on the left.

371/2 M. Hazebrouck {Buffet-Hotel, at the station ; du Nord,
Place de la Gare), with 12,570 inhab., on the Bourre., is an impor-
tant railway -junction, at the intersection of lines to Arras, Dunkirk
(p. 83), Lille (p. 88), Calais, and Ypres. The Church of St. Eloi
(16th cent.) has an elegant and conspicuous tower, 260 ft. high.

Fkom Hazebrouck to Ypres, 20 M., railway in l-l'/s Lr. (fares 2 fr. 95,
2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 50 c). — 71/2 M. Godewaersvelde, the last French station,

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 2

1 8 Route 1. LENS. From Calais

situated at tlie foot of the Mont des Cats, on wMch is a modern convent
of Trappist monks. The night may be spent in the convent, and the
follov^ing day devoted to excursions to the JJont Noir and the Mont de Lille,
sandy and wooded hills on the Belgian frontier. — At (9 M.J Abeele, the hrst
Belgian station, the custom-house examination is made. — 20 M. Ypres
(Tete d'Or), v^^lth a very interesting cathedral and cloth-hall. See Baedeker''s
Belgium and Holland.

Fkom Hazebkouck to Hon'dsciiooxe, 22 M., railway via Steenwoorde,
Rexpoede, etc.

Beyond Hazebrouck the train enters the Forest of Nieppe.
411/2 M- Steenbecque ; 44 M. Thiennes^ beyond which two canals are
crossed. — 47 M. Berguette.

Railway from Berguette to Armentlires, see p. 99; to St. Omer, p. 17.

51 M. Litters (Hot. Lemoiiie), with 7800 inhab., has a curious
church in the Transition style. Artesian wells derive their name
from the district of Artois, where the earliest (still pointed out;
65 ft. deep) is said to have been sunk at Lillers in the 12th century.
— At (5772 ^') Fouquereu'tl the railway to Abbeville diverges to
the right (p. 13).

59 M. Bethune (Hotel du Nord; Lion d'Or), a manufacturing
and commercial town with 11,600 inhab., is situated at the junction
of two canals. It -was the capital of an ancient barony and was one
of the fortresses of Artois. The peace of Utrecht united it to France
in 1713. The chief objects of interest are the7:fe^/^rt/, of the 14th cent.,
and the Church of St. Vaast, of the 16th cent., with columns of the
13th century. — Hallway to Lille, see p. 97 ; to Abbeville, see p. 13,

62M. Noeu-v. — 65'/2M, Bully-Grenay has important coal-mines.

Branch railways run hence to {197-2 51.) Brias (St. Pol and Ahbeville;
p. 13) and to (6 M.) Violaines (p. 97).

70 M. Lens (Hotel de France), an ancient town with 17,230
inhab., situated on the Souche:- or Deide^ was formerly fortified, and
was frequently captured in the wars of the 15th, 16th, and 17th cent-
uries. Conde' gained an important victory over the Spaniards in the
neighbourhood in 1648. Lens lies at the centre of the coal-fields
of the Pas de Calais, which have an area of 190 sq. M. and yield
5,000,000 tons of coal per annum, employing 25,000 hands.

Fkom Lkns (Akkas) to AKMENTiiiuKS, 20 M. , railwav in l-P/a hr.
(fares 3 fr. 70 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 65 c). — 37-2 M. Font - a - Vendin, the junction for
(5V2 M.) Violaines (p. 91):, 7 M. Bauvin-Provin., the junction of a line to
mnin - LUtard (see below); 10 M. Don-Sainghin (p. 97); IIV2 M. Wavrin
(p. 97). — 20 M. Armentieres, see p. 99

Fkom Lens to Libekcoukt, II1/2 M.. railway in '/s hr. (see p. 86). —
The line forks at (572 M.) Jlinin-Lietord, an ancient town with 12,0C0 in-
hab., the one branch leading to Libercourt (p. 86), and the other pro-
ceeding via (472 M.) Courri^res, the church of which contains a magni-
licent tomb of one of the Moutmorencv family, and (772 M.) Carvin, an
industrial town with 8600 inhab. (p. 86), to (10 M.) Bauvui-Pi-ovin (see above).

Another local line runs from Lens to (SS'/a 3L) Frivent (p. 23) via
Auhigny (p. 24),

Near (76 M.) Farbus-Vimy the railway to Carvin diverges to
the left (see above). The line now traverses the valley of the Scarpe
by means of a viaduct and embankments, and joins the railway from
Douai before reaching Arras.

to Amiens. ARRAS. 1. Route. 19

83 M. Arras. — Hotels. Du Commerce, Rue Gambetta, dej. 3, D.
31/2 fr., incl, wine; de l'Univers, Place de la Croix Rousjje , R., L., & A.
21/2-5, B. 1, dej. 21/2, I>- 23/.1, omn. ^/-z-^/ih-.; du Petit St. Pol, Place du
Theatre, R. 2, dej. 3, D. 8V2 fr., incl. wine. — Cafes in the Place du
Theatre; Buffet at the station. — Post Office, Rue de la Gouvernance,
near the theatre.

Arras, formerly fortified, with 26,150 inhab., situated on the
right bank of the Scarpe^ the ancient capital of Ariois, is now the
chief town of the Departement du Pas-de-Calais, and the seat of a
bishop. Its grain-trade is very considerable.

Arras was the capital of the Gallic tribe of the Atrebates, under the
name of Netnetacum or Nemetocenna. It seems to have been famous for its
woollen cloth as early as the 4th cent., the madder of which grows lu.vur-
iantly in the neighbourhood, providing an excellent dye material. In the
middle ages the tapestry-hangings of Arras had a high reputation , and
many of them are still preserved, especially in England, where the name
of the town itself was used as their common name. The manufacture
has long been extinct. The town followed the fortunes of the Pays d'Artois,
of which it was the capital, passing by marriage from the house of France
to Burgundy, Flanders, Burgundy again, Germany, and Spain. After
the battle of Agincourt (1415) the English and French signed the treaty
of peace at Arras. It was many times captured and recaptured in the
wars between France and Burgundy and Germany , and in 1477 Louis XI.
punished its repugnance to the French yoke with great severity, changing
the name of the town to 'Franchise'. The Peace of Arras, in 1482,
marks an epoch in French history, determining the N. frontier of France
at the expense of the feudal state of Burgundy. Arras was finally incor-
porated with France in 1640. — Arras was the birthplace of Maximilien
Robespierre (175S-94) and his younger brother Joseph (1763-94), and of
Joseph Lebon, originally a cure, who organized the 'Terror' in Arras and
distinguished himself by his cruelties.

The Station, in the new quarter that has sprung up since the de-
molition of the fortifications, stands at one end of a broad thorough-
fare traversing the town under various names (Rue Gambetta, Rue
Ernestale, Rue St. Aubert, etc.). On the left side of the Rue Gam-
betta rises the pretty modern Tour des UrsuUnes, the spire of which
was overthrown by a storm in 1876. The tower, which is in the
Transition style, was built in imitation of the smaller tower of La
Ste. Chandelle, which formerly adorned the Petite Place. We reach
the latter Place and the Hotel de Ville by the Rue St. Gery, which
leads to the right a little farther on.

The Petite Place and the neighbouring Grande Place are curious
relics of the period of Spanish domination, in the ITth century.
Both are surrounded with uniformly built houses , with arcades
below, supported by monolithic sandstone columns, and curious
gables above. No. 49, Grande Place, dates from the lith century.
Beneath the Grande Place and other parts of the town are huge sub-
terranean magazines and cellars, originally quarries and known as
'boves'.

The *H6tel de Ville, built in the 16th cent, by Jacques Carcn
and restored in the 19th cent., is one of the handsomest in the N.
of France, with a fine Gothic facade, rising upon seven arches of
different sizes. The lateral facades are in an elaborate Renaissance

1*

20 Route 1. ARRAS. From Calais

style; that on the N. is modern. The two large saloons on the -first
floor contain Gothic wood-carving and large chimney-pieces. The
graceful Belfry, which terminates in a crown, is 240 ft. high. The
'Banclocque' or 'Joyeuse', the largest bell, dates from 1728 and
weighs nearly 9 tons.

The church of St. Jean Baptiste (16th cent), near the Petite Place,
contains a Descent from the Cross, attributed to Rubens.

Farther to the N. are the extensive buildings of the former
Abbey of St. Vaast.^ now occupied by the Bishop's Palace, the Grand
Se'minaire, and theMusee. The Oardtnis embellished with bronze
busts of eminent natives of Arras.

The MusEE, including a gallery of paintings and an archseological
collection, occupies most of the groundfloor on the N.W. or garden
side (see below). The public are admitted [10-1 and 2-5) every
Sun. from June to Sept., and on the first Sun. of each month during
the rest of the year (entr. from the garden); for adm. on other days,
visitors apply to the concierge, at the large portal in the Place.

Ground-Floor. Room I, entered from the Place,, contains nothing im-
portant. — R. II is hung chiefly with modern paintings of slight impor-
tance. To the right: No number, Ed. Gelhay., Before the judge; JJaverdoing,
Massacre of the Innocents 5 197. Ziegler, Death of the Doge Foscari, as
he hears the clock strike the hour which begins his successor's reign ^ 130.
Baton, Sea-piece; 7. Berthon, jMass in Auvergne; no number, Thirion,
Wreck of the Vengeur; 69. Feyen-Perrin, Women of Cancale-, 12i. Maigret,
An affair of outposts (1870); 13. Em. Breton, Storm; 156. Sorieul ., Battle
of Quiberon; 26. Colin, Bar of Bidassoa; 77. Glaize, Human folly; 195.
Yvon, Qi-<KSS,x; 151. Sehron, Cathedral of Vienna; 113. Leroux, Death in
Brittany; 119. Em. Livy, Joash rescued from massacre; 198. Zieglev ,
Henri IV and Marguerite of Valois. — On the other side, several large
and badly lighted canvases: II8. Leuillier , Tiger-iiunl; no number, Jl.
Ginois, The six citizens of Calais in the tent of Edward III. of England
(see p. 4); 289. Unknown Artist, Ecce Homo; dO. Monchablon, RocLe Verte;
129. Morel-Fatio, Tortoise Island; 71. Fragonard, The six citizens of
Calais; 150. Schuizenberger, Rape of Europa. — In the centre are some
modern sculptures, casts, and terracottas.

R. III. 47. Denneulin, After vespers ; 159. Copy of Spada, Return of the
Prodigal; 46. Demory, Breton interior; 82. Gros, Helen; 75. Girard, Por-
trait of the artist: 38. Dassy, Portrait of Cardinal de la Tour d'Auvergne,
bishop of Arras; 39. Eug. Delacroix, Martyrdom of St. Stephen; 29. Corot,
Morning effect; 16. J. Breton, Repose.

We next enter the Cloisters, which are devoted to the Archaeological
Collection of sculptures and architectonic fragments, etc. The gallery to
the left contains copies of paintings, plaster casts after the antique, and a
large wooden model of the cathedral (p. 21). The best sculptures are on
the right side, at the end, near the entrance to the remaining rooms of
the picture-gallery.

R. IV. 130. Neefs the Elder, Church interior; 17. Van den Broeck, Last
.Judgment; 78. Goltzins, Golden Age; 63. Van Duck, St. Sebastian; 6. Van
Bergen, Mercury soothing Argus to sleep; 21. Canaletto, Boating-party;
123. iV. ^faes, Anna Maria Schurmann, a learned lady; 10-'. Jordaens,
Bacchanal; 136. /. B. M. Pierre, Rape of Europa; 127. Molenaer , Tavern
scene; 86. Ileemskerck, Tavern scene; 128. Monnoyer, Flowers; 66. Fabri-
tins, The three angels visiting Abraham.

R. V. 19. 'Velver Brueghel, The Earthly Paradise; 137. Jac. Bassano,
Family concert; 218. Flemish School of the lHh cei,t., Susanna at the
bath; '200. Flenmh School. Crucifixion: 142. Daniele da VoUerra, Samson
and Delilah.

to Amiens. ARRAS. 1. Route. 21

R. VI. 199. Flemish School, Felshaziar's feaat; IGO. M. de Vos (?) , As-
sumplion; 241. Flemish School, Adoration of the Shepherds; 169. Tenters
the Younger, Flemish topers; '^3. Ph. de Champaigne, Portrait; 32. Craes-
beke, Card-players; 217. Flemish School of the 15th cent.. Entombment;
216. Florentine School of the 14th cent.. Madonna with saints and angels;
20(3. Flemish School, FortTSiit; 151. Sni/ders,WoU-'h\int:, 292. Venetian School,
Blartyrdom of a queen; 133. Oitdry, Fox-hunt; 158. Snyders, Boar-hunt;
188. Verbruggen the Younger, Children adorning a statue of Pan.

First Floor. On the landing, Blodel of a ship otl'ered by the States
of Artois to the American Colonies in the War of Independence. — The
gallery and two rooms contain collections of sculptures, drawings, tapestry,
porcelain, coins, weapons, nntiquities, and small objects of art. — On the
Second Floor is a Natural History Collection.

The garden is reached through a Vestibule containing casts.

In the same building are preserved the Library (40,000 vols.; 1100 MSS.)
and the Archives Departementales.

The Cathedral, at the N.E. angle of the ahbey-huildings, was
built in 1755-1833 to succeed the old abbey-church. It contains
some good paintings, including a Descent from the Cross and. an
Entombment, attributed respectively to Rubens and Van Dyck (botli
in the ambulatory of the choir), and three small triptychs and a
line Head of Christ in the N. transept. In the S. transept is a St.
Bernard supplicating inspiration from heaven , by Van Thulden.
The high-altar is adorned with a bas-relief in gilded bronze. One
of the chapels contains a Madonna by Corot , and two modern
monuments of bishops.

The first street to the left of the garden of St. Vaast crosses the
busy Rue St. Aubert, near the HopUal St. Jean (to the right), in
front of which is a Statue of Abbe HalLuin (18'20-95), distinguished
for his charity. The street leads on to the barracks, arsenal, etc.
To the left, before the arsenal, the Rue de T Arsenal leads to the
modern Romanesque church of Notre Dame des Ardents, with a fine
pulpit and the tomb of Mgr. Lequette, by Louis-Noel. — The streets
running parallel with the barracts lead to the Boulevard Crespel
and to the Promenades, with their fine Irees. Beyond these is the
Citadel, constructed by Vauban in 1670-74, surnamed 'La Belle-
Inutile', and now partly dismantled. — In the Rue d'Amiens, beyond
the barracks, is the elegant Chapelle des Dames du St. Si.crement,
a modern construction in the Flamboyant style, by Grigny. — The
Rue d'Amiens leads hence back to the Rue St. Aubert; the new
boulevards next the promenades bring us direct to the station.

A branch -railway runs from Arras to (22V-' M.) Doullens (p. 24). —
From Arras to Boulogne, see p. 11; to Douai and Valenciennes, p. 74.

Beyond Arras the lines to Doullens and St, Pol (p. 23) diverge
to the right. From (88 M.) Boisleux a branch-line runs to (16 V2 M.)
Marqulon, whence it is to be continued to Cambrai. — 94 M. Achiet.

A branch-railway runs from Achiet to (20' /'^ M.) Marcoing (Cambrai).
— 41/2 W. Bapaume (Hot. de la Fleur), a small town which gives name
to one of the severest battles fought in the N. during the campaign of 1870-71.
Poth French and Germans claim to have won the battle of Bapaume (Jan.
3rd, 1871), but the latter after the combat fell back behind the Somme.
A Statue of Faidherhe (1818-89) was erected here in 1891. — 10 V- M. V(<lu-
Bertinccurt. Branch to Epehy (p. 7',^. — 2Q^j-z M. Marcoing, see p. 73.

22 Route I. GUInES. From Calais

97 M. Mirawhont; 100 M. Beaucourt-Hamel. — 105 M. Albert
(Tete de Boeuf), an indnstxial town with 6750inliab. on the Ancre,
which forms here a pretty waterfall. The church of Notre- Dame-Bre-
bieres^ recently restored , attracts numerous pilgrims. The village
was called Ancre until the reign of Louis XIII., who presented it
in 1617 to his favourite Charles d'Albert, Due de Luynes.

Branch-lines run from Albert W. to (27 M.) Doullens (p. 24); and E.
via (27 M.) Fdronne (p. 72) to (48 M.) Bam (p. 97).

110 M. Mericourt-Ribemont. — 115 M. Corbie (Hotel du Com-
merce; de France)^ with 4300 inhab., was once celebrated for its
Benedictine abbey, of which the Church of St. P/errc (16- 18th cent.)
still remains, though disfigured at the beginning of the 19th cent-
ury. The imposing portal, with its two towers, is well seen from
the railway.

The Somme is now crossed. — 117 M. Daours, at the con-
fluence of the Somme and the Hallue. On the banks of the latter
was fought the battle of Dec. 23rd, 1870, between Manteuffel and
Faidherbe, which compelled the latter to fall back on Arras.

The Somme is crossed twice. The line to Tergnier diverges to
the left. — 118 M. Longueau^ where passengers to or from Amiens
change carriages, as the through-trains between Arras and Paris do
not run into Amiens station (see p. 74).

120^2 M. Amkns, see p. 25.

c. Via Anvin, St. Pol, Prevent, and Doullens.
11.3 31. Railway in 11 brs. (fares about 19 fr. 90, 14 fr. 55. 10 fr. 26 c).
There are no through-trains or through-tickets on this route, as the narrow-
gauo;e line from Calais to (59 M.) Anvin docs not belong to the Compagnie
du Nord.

The trains start at Calais-Saint- Pierre, see p. 5. — ^2 ^^' Calais-
Fontineltes. At (2 M.) Coulogne the line to Paris via Boulogne
diverges to the right, and the line to Arras to the left. 3 M. LEclme-
Carree; 41/2 M. Banc-Valois.

5V2 M. Guines (Ville de Calais)^ a town with 4270 inhab.,
formerly the capital of the Comtes de Guines and at one time fort-
ified, is connected with Calais by a canal and by a tramway (p. 4).
To the S. extends a large forest. Guines was taken by the English
in 1352 and held by them for 200 years.

7V2M. Andres. — 8V2M. Balinghem was the scene in 1520 of the
famous meeting of the Field of the Cloth of Gold between Henry Vlll..
who had taken up his abode at Guines, and Francis I. of France, who
lodged at Ardres. The interview was so named from the lavish magni-
ficence with which the two kings entertained each other.

The princely lodging at Guines, says Lord Herbert of Cherbury, was
'a square of timber, whereof every side contained three hundred twenty-
eight foot, with a Savage before it, carrying bow and arrows, and the
words Cui adhaereo praeest. The parts of which great building, having
been artificially framed in England, were now put together and afterwards
taken asunder, and brought home. This again was most sumptuously
furnished; especially the chapel; from which a private gallery reached to

0 Amiens. ST. POL. 1 . Route. 23

the strong casfle of Guinea. The house for Francis (near Ardres) was a
building rather great than costly, as being erected with such materials as
could be gotten in haste; his first intention being to lodge in a rich
pavilion of cloth of gold, until the wind threw it down.'

IOV2 ^- Ardres (Paillardieu), a small town, formerly fortified,
lies aliout 3 M. from the railway between Calais and Arras (p. 15).
— Beyond Ardres the train passes several unimportant stations,
and at (31 M.) Liimbres it crosses the line from Boulogne <o St. Omer
(p. 10) and enters the valley of the Aa. — 37V2 M. Merck-St-
Lievin has a fine church of the 13-17th centuries. Beyond (40 M.)
Fauquembergue, a small town with a fine church of the 12th, 13th,
and 15th cent., we quit the valley of the Aa. — 44^2 M. Rimeux-
Oournay is the junction of the Montreuil-Berck line (p. 11).

491/2 M. Fruges [Trois Pigeons, etc.), an ancient place with 3100
inhabitants. To Berck and Montreuil, see p. 11.

About 31/2 M. to the S. of Fruges, and as far to the N.W. of the sta-
tion of Blangy-sur-Tcrnoise (p. 11), lies Agincourt or Azincourt, famous
for the victory won by Henry V. over the French, on Oct. 25th, 1415- The
English troops numbered about 9000; the French not less than 50,000.
The following description of the battle is taken from Jlr. J. R. Green's
'History of the English People". When Henry V.'s 'weary and half-starved
force succeeded in crossing the Somme, it found sixty thousand Frenchmen
encamped on the lield of Agincourt right across its line of march. Their
position, flanked on either side by woods, but with a front so narrow
that the dense masses were drawn up thirty men deep, though strong for
purposes of defence, was ill-suited for attack; and the French leaders,
warned by the experience of Crcfcy and Poitiers, resolved to await the
English advance. Henry on the other hand had no choice between attack
and unconditional surrender. . . The English archers . . . with a great shoxit
sprang forward to the attack. The sight of their advance aroused the
fiery pride of the French; the wise resolve of their leaders was forgotten,
and the dense mass of men-at-arms plunged heavily forward through
miry ground on the English front. But at the first sign of movement
Henry had halted his line, and fixing in the ground the sharpened stakes
with which each man was furnished his archers poured their fatal arrow-
flights into the hostile ranks. The carnage was terrible, for though the
desperate charges of the French knighthood at last drove the English
archers to the neighbouring woods, from the skirt of these woods they
were still able to pour their shot into the enemy's flanks, while Henry
with the men-at-arms around him flung himself on the French line. . - .
The enemy was at last broken, and the defeat of the main body of the
French was followed by the rout of their reserve. The triumph was more
complete, as the odds were even greater than ;.t Cre'cy. Eleven thousand
Frenchmen lay dead on the field, and more than a hundred princes and
great lords were among the fallen'.

Beyond three small stations we reach (59V2 M-l ^'^'^in, the
junction of the line to Boulogne (p. 11), where the narrow-gauge
line ends. 62V2 ^' Wavrans.

651/2 M. St.Pol (Hutel d'Angleterre), a town with 3800 inhab.,
situated on the Ternoise, suffered severely in the wars of the 16th
cent., and did not finally pass to France until the treaty of the
Pyrenees in 1659.

Lines to Arras SltiA Boulogne, see p. 11 ; to Bully-Grenay and Lens, see p. 18.

70 M. Pefit-Hownn. The railway now quits the valley of the
Ternoise for that of the Canche. — 74'/2 M. Frevent C^'Hotel d'Ami-

24 Route I. CLERM0NT-DE-L'01SP:. From Amiens

ens), \vith 4330 inlialD., is the junction of lines to Abbeville (p. 12)
and to Lens (p. 18). The church of St. Vaast (partly 15th cent.) has
good modern stained-glass windows. — Beyond (81 M.) Bouque-
maison the line descends towards the valley of the Authie.

86 M. Doullens (Hotel des Quatre-Fils-Aymon), an industrial
town with 4575 inhab., on the Authie, is the centre of a consider-
able trade in phosphates. The Citadel is now used as a prison for
women. — Branch-line to Albert, see p. 22; to Arras, p. 11.

On quitting Doullens, the railway crosses the Authie, and beyond
(89 M.) Gezaincourt it begins to ascend as it leaves the valley of that
river. We then descend through the undulating and wooded valley
of the Fieffe to (96 M.) Canaples (branch to Longpre, see p. 15).
100 M. Vignacourt, an industrial village, with a handsome modern
Gothic church. — 108 M. Flesselles.

At Naours, 81/2 M. to the N., a subterranean refuge was discovered
in 1888, forming practically a village, with streets V"-^ ^^- i" aggregate
length, flanked with chambers of various kinds.

110 M. Longpre-les- Amiens. The Somme is crossed, and the
Gare de St. Roch passed. — 113 M. Amiens, see p. 25.

II. From Amiens to Paris.

a. Via Creil.
8IV2 M. Railway in 1-74-3V3 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 75, 9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 45 c).
The trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. G, 4).

At (2'/2 M.) Longueau (Buffet) the lines to Arras, Lille, etc.
diverge to the left (p. 22). — 51/2 M. Boves, with a ruined castle
on a hill to the right. (P»ailway to Compiegne, see p. 103.) — The line
follows the valley of the Noye, passing several peat-bogs. 12 M.
Ailly-sur-Noye, witli a church partly of the 13th cent., containing
a fine monument of the 15th century. — 16 M. La Faloise. About
13/4 M. to the S.E. (carr. 2 fr.) are the church of Folleville (15th cent.),
containing the tomb of Raoul de Lannoy (d. 1508), mainly by An-
tonio della Porta, and other interesting sculptures, and a ruined
castle of the same period, the watch-tower of which is still stand-
ing. The line here traverses a chalky district, belonging to the
calcareous system which begins in the Cote-d'Or, forms the Cham-
pagne district, passes into Picardy, and re-appears in the cliffs of the
S. coast of England. — 22'y'2 M. Breteuil-Gare is connected by a
branch-line, 47-2 ^1- long, with the small town of Breteuil (3000 in-
hab.). — 27 M. Gannes. The railway now quits the basin of the
Somme and enters that of the Seine. — 32 M. St. Just or St. Just-
en-Chaussce (Cheval Blanc), with 2380 inhab., is named from its
position at the intersection of two Koman roads.

A branch-lino runs hence to (11 M.) La- Rue St- Pierre, where it joins
il\c line from ("lermont to Beaurais (see p. 25). Local lines also run to
(14 M.) Estrces-Sl- Denis (p. 105) and (12>/-.. M.) Froissi^. — Railway to Cam-
bvni, etc., see K. 6.

40 M. Clermont-de-1'Oise (Ilattl St. Andre , well spoken of),

to Pari.^. LTANCOURT. J . Route. 25

a town with 5781 inhab., is beautifully situated on a hill-slope,
commanded by an ancient donjon, or keep, now used as a prison
for women. The Church of St. Samson dates from the 14-16th cent,
and has recently been well restored. The Hotel de Ville, built in
1320 by Charles IV le Bel, and restored in 1887, is said to be
the oldest town-hall in the N. of France.

A branch-railway runs from Clermont to (36 M.) Becmvais., traversing
the Forest of llez., and passing (23'/2 M.) La-Rue-St-Fierre (see p. 24), Bresles,
and (31 M.) Rocliy-Condi (p. 33). — 36 M. Beauvais, see p. 'i^.

Another branch runs to (23 M.) Compiegne (p. 102), via (13V2 M.) Estr^es-
Sl-Denis (p. 103).

45 M. Liancourt-sous-Clermont (Hot. du Chemin-de-Fer-dii-
NordJ, an industrial town with 4169 inhab., contains the ruined
chateau (17th cent.) of the dukes of Larochefoucauld-Liancourt and
a Statue of Duke Frederic Alexandre (1747-1827), member of the
Constituent Assembly in 1789, distinguished for his philanthropy
and for his encouragement of agriculture. In the church are two
interesting monuments.

49 M. Creil. Thence to Paris, see p. 101.

b. Via Beauvais.

02 M. Railway in 47^-43/4 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 70, U fr. 30, 7 fr. 30 c).

On leaving the terminus at Amiens, the train skirts the boulevards
to the S. of the town, passing through two sliort tunnels and crossing a
viaduct. i'^/^M. St. Roch, a suburban station of Amiens (see below).
Beyond (61/2 M.) Saleux we join the line from Rouen (see p. 31). —
Several small stations, including (14^/2 M.) Conty , a village with
a fine church, dating in part from the 15th cent, and containing
sculptures of the 15th and 16th cent. — 25 M. Crevecoeur^ with meri-
no-manufactures. The railway descends as it passes from the basin
of the Somme into that of the Seine. — 30 M. Oudeuil. — 32'/2 ^•
St. Omer-en-Chaussee. Line to Le Treport, see p. 36. — 37 M. Mont-
mille, with a curious church over a crypt, of the 9th and 12th cent.;
41 M. St. Just-lcs-Marais. The line now descends the right bank
of the Therain^ which it crosses, leaving the lines to Gournay and
Gisors (p. 35) on the right.

43 M. Beauvais, and thence to Paris, see pp. 33, 32.

2. Amiens.

Railway Stations. Gare du Nord or de Noyon (PI. G, 4; Buffet), the
chief stalion and general terminus for all trains. Gare St. Roch (PI C, 4),
to the E., where the lines to Rouen and Beauvais diverge (see p. 15 and
above).

Hotels. Hotel de l'Univers (PI. a; G, 4), Hotel du Rhin (PI. b;
G, 4), both Rue de Noyon and Place St. Denis, fu-a class, R. 3-7, L. 1/2,
A. ^/4-l, B. IY2, dej. 3, D. 4, omn. '/s-l fi*- ; de France et d'Angleteeke
(PI. c ; E, F, 4), Rue de la Re'publique 9, nearer the centre of the town,
R. 21/2-5, L. & A. 2. B. 11/2, D. 4 fr. ; Ecu de France (PL f; G, 4), Rue de
Noyon, mediocre, R., L., & A. 21/2-31/2, B. I-I1/4, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. (with
1/2 hot. of wine i/g fr. extra) j de Paris (PI. d; G, 4), Rue de Noyou, to the

26 Route 2. AMIENS. History.

left of the Gare du Nord, new, 71/2 fr. per day, incl. wine; Eoisst (PI. g;
E, 3), Rue Ste. Marguerite; dd Commerce (PI. e; F, 4), Rue des Jacobins;
DE LA Paix (PI. h; E, 4), Rue Dumeril 17; de Rouen (PI. i; E, 4), Rue
Dumeril 42; Croix Blanche, Rue de Beauvais 44 (PI. E, 4).

Cafes. Dufourmantelle^ Rue des Trois-Cailloux 34, and others in the
same street.

Cabs. For 1-2 pers., per drive 75 c., per hr. l'/2 fr, ; 3-4 pers., 1 fr.
and 2 fr., each 1/4 hr. extra 50 c.

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. E, 8), Place de THotel-de-Ville. Tele-
grapli Office al?o at the Gare du Nord.

Theatre, Rue des Trois-Cailloux 69 (PI. F, 4). — Circus^ Place Longue-
ville (PI. E, F, 5).

Baths. Bains du Logis-du-Roi., in the passage of that name between
Nos. 59 and 61 Rue des Trois-Cailloux.

English Church Service once a month, on the first Thurs., in the French
Protestant Church., Rue de Metz. French services on Sun. at 11 and 8.

Pdtis de Canards., a specialty of Amiens, may be obtained good at
Degand''s, Rue de Noyon 20.

Ainiens, the ancient capital of Plcardy., now that of the Depar-
tement de la Somme, and one of the principal manufacturing towns
in France, with 88,730 inhah., is situated on the Somme and its
affluents the Arve and the Selle. These streams form numerous
canals in the lower part of the town. The principal manufactures
are linen, woollen stuifs, silk thread, cashmeres, and velvet. The
central part of the town is surrounded by handsome houlevards on
the site of the former fortifications, of which the citadel (p. 31) is
the only relic.

Amiens is the ancient Samarohriva., chief town of the Amhiani . cap-
tured by Ca?sar. Christianity was introduced in 801 by St. Firmin, the
first bishop and martyr, who must not be confounded with St. Firmin
the Confessor, a later bishop. The town suffered severely from the in-
cursions of the Normans. Ceded in 1485 to the Duke of Burgundy, it was
bought back in 1463 by Louis XI.; and in 1597 it was surprized by the
Spaniards but was retaken by Henri IV. In 1802 the Peace of Amiens
was concluded here between France, Great Britain. Spain, and Holland.
In Nov. 1870 it was entered by the Germans after the Battle of .Amiens,
which consisted of a number of detached engagements at Yillers-Breton-
neux, to the E., Dury, to the S., and other points in the vicinity (p. 97).

On quitting the station, we cross the Boulevards, which mark
the limits of the old town. Immediately opposite is the Rue de Noy-
on, which we follow to the Place St. Denis (PI. F, G, 4), embellish-
ed with a bronze statue of Ducange^ the eminent linguist (born at
Amiens in 1610; d. 1088), byCaudron. Farther on is the Kue des
Trois-Cailloux (p. Q8). the chief street of Amiens.

The Kue Victor-Hugo leads from the Place St. Denis to the
right, passing the modern Palais de Justice (PI. F, 3, 4), to the —

*Cathedral (Pl.F, 3). one of the most imposing Gothic churches
in Europe, erected in 1220-88 by the architects Robert de Lu-
zarches , Thomas de Cormont, and his son Rinault. Length 470 ft.,
length of transept 213 ft., width of nave 144 ft. The heaviness
of the building is insufficiently relieved by the lofty and extremely
slender spire over the transept, 360 ft. in height, or 145 ft. above
the roof, re-erected in 1529. The two uncompleted towers of the
W. fayade belong respectively to the 13th and 16th cent., the former

Cathedral. AMJENS. 2. Route. 27

being 181 ft., the latter 210 ft. in height, but like the central spire
they are too small for the erlifice. The principal W. Portal, one of
the finest parts of the building, was completed towards the end of
the 14th century.

The *Facade contains three lofty recessed porclies, richly adorned
with reliefs and statues. In the tympanum above the door of the central
porch is a relief of the Last Judgment; 150 statues in the vaulting
represent the celestial hierarchy, while the large statues on each side are
the Apostles and other holy personages. The doors of this central porch
are separated by the ''Beau Dieu cfAmiens'', an admirable figure of the
Saviour, holding the Gospels in his left hand and bestowing a blessing
with his right, while he tramples under foot a lioh and a dragon. At the
sides are the Wise and the Foolish Virgins, and beneath is a double row of
medallions representing the virtues and the vices, different handicrafts, etc.
— The right porch is ornamented in a similar way; above the doors, the
Entombment and the Assumption of the Virgin, beneath, a figure of the
Virgin, and still lower, Adam and Eve; at the sides, the Annunciation, the
Visitation, and the Presentation, the Queen of Sheba, Solomon, theMagi, etc.
The medallions below represent scenes from the life of the Virgin. —
The left porch is dedicated to St. Firmin, the apostle of Picardy. In the
tympanum, the Invention and Glorification of the relics of the saint; between
the doors, a figure of St. Firmin; at the sides, other saints of the district.
The medallions represent the signs of the zodiac and employments suitable
for each season. — The portals are surmounted by beautiful gables, on
the central one of which is a figure of St. Michael. Above are a handsome
gallery, a row of niches containing twenty-two colossal statues of kings of
Judah, a magnificent rose-window 38 ft. in diameter, and (at the top) a
gallery connecting the towers.

The beautiful ^Side Portals are also adorned with numerous fine
statues. The rose- window above the porch of the S. transept represents a
'wheel of fortune'. The N. porch is simpler than the others; and this side
of the church is partly masked by the bishop's palace and other buildings.

The *Interior consists of nave, transept, aisles, and choir, all fianked
with chapels. The fine nave rises to the very unusual height of 147 ft., being
surpassed in this respect by the cathedral of Beauvais alone. The vaulting
is borne by 126 remarkably bold columns, tapering towards the top, so
that the vaulting seems actually wider than the pavement below. The
traveller should not neglect to visit the Triforium, which commands a
good survey of the interior of the church, and ascend thence to the ex-
ternal galleries and the tower.

The ''Monuments of the two bishops who founded the church, one on
each side of the nave, are fine works in bronze of the I3th century. The
wrought-iron screens (iSth cent.) of the choir and chapels are worthnotice.
At the entrance to the choir are large marble statues of St. Vincent de
Paul and S. Carlo Borroraeo, erected in 1755.

The High Beliefs in the .S. transept, representing scenes from the life
of St. James the Great, date from the beginning of the 16th century. Above
are small modern marble bas-reliefs, with the names of members of the
Confrerie de Notre Dame du Puy, a society founded for the encouragement
of literature and art.

The similar Reliefs in the N. transept, of the same period, represent
the expulsion of the money-changers and other events in the history of
the Temple at Jerusalem. Adjacent is a stone trough, the former font, which
appears to date from the 11th century. The tombs of Bishop Sabatier
(18th cent.) and Cardinal He'mard de Denonville (16th cent.) are also in
this transept.

The exterior of the choir-screen is adorned with coloured and gilded
* High Reliefs., representing, on the N. side, the history of John the Baptist,
on the S. side, the lives of St. Firmin and St. Salvius. sculptured in 1489
and 1530.

Behind the high-altar is the tomb of Canon Lucas (18th cent. ),with the
'■Enfant Pleuveur\ a much-admired, but overrated marble angel by Blasset.

28 Route 2. AMIENS. Miisee de Picardie.

The church contains several other interesting monuments, including
a very antique figure of Christ (known as 'St. Sauve'), in a gilt rohe, in
the 3rd chapel on the N. of the nave. — No one should omit to inspect
the beautifully carved '"'Choir Stalls, 110 in number, executed in 1508-22
by Jean Ti-upin and three assistants. There are no fewer than 3650 figures,
the finest being those on the hand-rails of the steps. The subjects are
chiefly Scriptural, but various worldly occupations are also represented.
The pyramidal ornaments above the stalls are 40 ft. high.

At the back of the church rises a mediocre statue in bronze of
Peter the Hermit (PI. F, 3), or Pierre of Amiens, the promoter of
the first crusade.

The Rue Robert-de-Luzarches, beginning opposite the S. portal
of the Cathedral and passing the Palais de Justice (p. 26), leads
back to the Rue des Troix-Caillonx, the busiest street in the town,
with the best shops, the Theatre (PI. F, 4; 1773-79), and the hand-
some Passage de la Renaissance. At the E. end of the Rue des Trois-
Cailloux is the Place Gambetta, in which is a Clock Tower, in gilded
and enamelleld iron, by Era. Ricquier, with the bronze figure of a
girl at the base by Alb. Roze (1897).

Turning here to the left, we follow the Rue de la Republique,
which leads to the boulevard-^. On the right, in this street, is the
Church of St. Remi (PI. E, 4), which has been under restoration
since 1890. The choir and transepts are in the Gothic style of the
13th century. Farther on, also on the right, is the —

*Musee de Picardie (PI. E, 4), a handsome building erected in
1854-64, with a small garden in front. The museum contains
collections of antiquities, sculptures, and paintings; labels are
attached to the principal objects. Admission free on Sun., Tues.,
and Thurs., 12-5 (4 in winter) ; strangers may also obtain admission
on other days, 10-4.

Ground -Floor. — Room I, to the right of the entrance, a kind of
Chapel, painted and gilded in the Romanesque style, contains sculptures of
the middle ages and the l\enaissance, and has some good stained glass of
the 15th and 16th centurios.

Room II (Galerie Lapidaire) contains Roman and other antiquities;
sculptures; bas-reliefs; wood-carvings; glass-case with small objects of art;
porcelain; furniture; tapestry; monks' heads carved in wood (Nos. 90,89,
87), etc. — Rooms III and IV: Roman and Gallo-Roman antiquities, includ-
ing a statue of Diana. — Koom V: Sculptures: 17. Crank, Satyr; 10. Cau-
dron, Archimedes. — Room VI: Mer,)vingian and fureign antiquities. —
Room VII: Greek and Egyptian antiquities.

Room VIII (Sculpture Gallerii). In the middle, to the right: 13. Chre-
tien, Follower of Bacchus (bron/e); no number, Desprez, Girl and the snail ;
45. Loison, The Soul; 40. Lescorne, Clytie ; no number, Ouillaume, Bona-
parte; Dainpt, End of a dream; 27. Dianont, Seated genius; no number,
Chahri^, A child's reverie; Rotilkau, Leda; 102. }faniet, Hesitation. Opposite,
as we return: 41. L^rOqtie, .Amazon : 44. Loison. Daphnis and 'NaVs. On the
cnlrance-wall : 8. Caudron, Louis XIV. entering Aries (bas-relief in bronze).
In the second row and opposite the windows: 14. CU'singer, Leda; 0. 8.
Cmulron, Arena at Aries, Louis XIV. entering Aries (reliefs in plaster):
20. Delahridre, Panther and heron (bronze); no number, Bingel, March of
Rakoczy (terracotta): if. C. dii Passage, Dog^ (terracotta); 49. Rtnoir, Eve; no
number, Lange GngUelmo, Giotto. — At the foot ot the staircase in the
vestibule: IS Cngnot, Corybanfc suppressing the cries of the infant Jti-
piter (bronze); 37. Le Pire, Kaun hunting (bron.e).

Musee de Picardie. AMIENS. 2. Route. 29

Central Saloon. Paintings. From right to left: '70. Ilh-ean, Rising
storm; 180. Schiietz, Miracle; no number, ''Maignan, Dante meeting Matilda;
St. Pierre, Vensero- a,:, 24. 5oMc//fr, Crocodile-hunt; 1. Bachelier^ Bear-hunt;
93. Le Poittevin, Shipwrecked; no number, Demont Breton^ Mill; 83. Lai-
resse. Duchess of Cleves; 64. Granet, St. Louis freeing the prisoners at Da-
mietta; 43. David, Countess Dillon; no number, ''Snlmson^ Arrest in Pi-
cardy ; 61. Girdrne, The Augustan age; 6. liachelier, Lion and dogs; 32. Cana-
lettoh), Venice; 147. G. Van Loo, Bear-hunt; no number, "Murillo, Drinker;
no number, Ziegler, Peace of Amiens ; 155. H. Verne/, Massacre of the Mame-
lukes at Cairo in 1811; hQ. Em. Livij, Free supper of the martyrs; 218.
Fragonard, Picnic. —148. Van Loo, Ostrich-hunt; no number, Maignan, Voices
of the tocsin; "/. Jjefehvve (of Amiens), Laly Godiva; DawanI, Rescue from
a wreck; 138. Tenters the Elder, Village doctor; 103. Van Moer, Studio; 23.
Boticher, Leopard-hunt. — No niimber, Lhermitle, Death and the wood-cutter ;
235. Benner, Sleeping girl ; 80. Jouvenei, Miracubjus draught of fishes.

First Floor. — The staircase is adorned with allegorical mural paintings
by Puvis de Ghavannes ('Ludus pro Patria'; 'Toil and Resf). — The Salle
du Dome is adorned with a ceiling-painting (France crowning distinguished
natives of Picardy) and various paintings in monochrome, by Pel. Barrias.
Puvis de Ghavannes, Chauvin, and Gastine have embellished the adjoining
rooms with allegorical paintings.

Room I (on the right side). To the left : 193, 194. Flemish School
(1518, 1519), Copies of two curious paintings , now preserved in the bishop's
palace; the frames of the copies are the original frames of the IGth century.
207-209. Triptych (15th cent.): Bearing of the Cross, Crucifixion, and Descent
from the Cross ; Sixteen small paintings of the French School, in the style
of Lesueur, representing the history of St. Norbert, and eight others in
honour of Notre Dame du Puy (see p. 2'). Sevres vise; old tapestry.

Room II. Works of the French school of the 18th century. — Room III :
121. Binet^ Landscape; no number, Gneldry, Maceration of metals; 15i. G.
Vernet, Greek horseman combatting a lion; 35. Chintrenil, The m^on; no
number, Guillement, St. Suliac. — 72. Hesse, Mirabeau announcing the refusal
of the States General to obey the King's order f r a dissolution (June 25th,
1789); 231. H. Scheffer, Vision of Charles IX.; several good landscapes;
Sinibaldi, Manon Lescaut; 110. Miiller, Blacbeth ; 27. Breton, The spring;
107. Monvoisin, Joan the Mad, queen of Castile; no number, "Cahanel,
Death of Francesca da Rimini; Benoue, End of the day; 68. Guiaud, Ant-
werp cathedral; no number, Taitegrain, The Mourners of Etaples; Glaize,
Athenian fugitives. — De Winter, During the ''Xeuvaine' (a devotional act
lasting nine days); Ferrier, Mothers cursing war; Boutet de Monvel, Return
from market. The adjoining Cabinet contains engravings.

Room IV: 125. Bestout, Last Supper; etc. — Room V: Chicot, Fisher-
men hauling up their boat. — Room VI: 105. Monchablon, Burial of Moses.
This room also contains a collection of medals. — Room VII: 236 Bonne-
grace, Bashfulne-s vanquished by love; no numbers, Dubufe, Sacred and
Profane Music; Taitegrain, Fisherman; Pibrac, Easter eve; 9. Bellangi,
Return from Elba; 76. Jacqiiand, Condemnation of Galileo. — Room VIII:
No number, Lafosse, .^acob and Laban; 146. J. de Boullongne, The pas-
sions. — 163. Van Vliet, Portrait; 20i. Bolognese School, Gregory XIII. (d.
1555); 143. Titian, Vitellius; no number, ia/osse. Nativity ; 162. Van Vliet,
Portrait of a burgomaster (companion to No. 163); 71. Herrera the Elder,
Miracle of the loaves. — 14. Bloemaert. St. Monica; no numbers, Bril,
Landscape; De Ileem, Fruit; Fr. Buhens, Battle; Biliverdi{1), Judith; below,
Sienese School (15th cent.). Three small triptychs ; *161. Vivarino, Holy P'am-
ily; 119 (above), Porbvs (?), The five senses; 3. Albano (?), Rest on the
Flight into Egypt. — 78. Jordaens, Christ appearing to Mary Magdalen;
165. Zurbarani;}), St. Catharine of Siena; 50. 0. Dolci {!), St. Cecilia. —
Room IX: No number, Vollon, Monkey. — "67. Gui, Last sigh of Christ;
no number, Gambert, Pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Valery; 131. Schneiz,
Sack of Aquileia by Attila; several good landscapes; no numbers, G.
Roussel. The body of Gen. Marceau given to the French army; 109. Mo-
zin, Shipwreck. — No number, ^Foucaucourt , Banks of the Somme; 59.
Claude Lorrain (?), Flight into Egypt ; 142 Thtiilier, Via Tiburtina ; no number,

30 Route 2. AMIENS.

OuMe, Empress Eugenie visiting the cholera patients at Amiens in 1866 ;
28. Cabat^ Good Samaritan ^ 31. Caminade, Death of the Virgin; 22. Zoe«-
c/ter (?), Venus demanding arms for ^Eneas from Vulcan; 10. Bellange,
Waterloo; 115. Parrocel, Cavalry akirmish; 79. Goyant, Rialto Bridge, Ve-
nice; no number, Goyet, Council of war; 36. Cibot^ Charity presiding over
a union of the different bodies of state; no number, G. Brion, The christen-
ing-day. — Room X: No number, Rob. Lefhvre.^ Louis XVIII. ; 234. Bavil-
lot.^ Ponds; to the right, 126. Rigaud, Puget the sculptor; 211. Dubois- l)ra-
honnet, Duchess of Berry; 120. Porion., Marie-Ame'lie, consort of Louis Phil-
ippe; no number, L. M. Van Loo^ Louis XV.

Room XI, parallel to R. 10, contains the '■' Galerie Lavalard, a collection
of works (mostly small) by the old master-, including several interesting
examples. From left to right, as we enter from R. IX: Landscapes and
genre-scenes of the Dutch school; 242. Rihei-a., A mass(V); above, 94, 95.
jPr. Hals., Portraits. — 46, 45 (farther on), S. van Ruusdael^ Landscapes; 6. A.
Cmjp, Shepherds; 71. Va7i Arihois, Landscape; 245. Ribera., St. Francis of
Assisi; 3. Brekelenkamp, Cobbler; 99. Jordaens, Game and vegetable dealer;
229. S. Rosa., Landscape; Rtjera, 246. Musician, 243. St. John the Baptist;
38, 39 (farther on), S. van Rur/sdael, Landscapes ; 12-14. Van Goyen, Sea-pieces ;
108. Sinjders, Game and fruit, etc.; 10. Flinck, Portrait; 244. Ribtra., Por-
trait; 91, 9.\ Fyt, Game; 20. Kaff, Still-life; 230, S.Rosa, Li-ndscape; 56.
Victor., Interior; 9. Everdingen., Landscape; 247. Velazquez., Portrait; 164.
Lai^gilliire, Portrait; 271. Lingelbach, Brigands on the watch. — 131.
Boticher, Women bathing. — 110 (farther on), Snyders, Game and fruit. —
The glass-cases contain medals, assignats, and various souvenirs. — At
the end of the gallery next the staircase is another Cabinet with engravings.

Opposite the Museum is the Prefecture (18th cent.}. A little
farther on, on the right, is the BibLiotheque Communale (PI. E, 4),
containing 80,000 vols, and 572 MSS. (adm daily, except Sun.,
11-4; in winter also 6-10 p.m.; closed in September). The portico
in front is adorned with busts of illustrious natives of the town.

The Rue de la Ropublique ends at the Place Longueville {F\.
E, 5; circus, see p. 26), on the spacious Bculevards ^ which bound
the old town. The Boulevard du Mail (PL F, 4) leads to the left
from the Rue de la Re'publique towards the Gare du Nord.

In a street running parallel with it on the N. is a monument, known
as the Jllustration^ JHcardes (PI. F, 4), by De Forceville, consisting of a
figure of Picardy, surrounded with statues and busts of eminent natives
of that province.

In the opposite direction the boulevards lead to the extensive
Promenade de la Hotoie (PI. A, B, C, 2, 3), at the W. end of the
town, where public concerts and festivals take place.

From the Promenade the Rue de la Hotoie (tramway) leads
directly towards the centre of the town, ending at the Place St. Fir-
min. To the right of this square is the modern churcli of St.Jocjues
(PI. D, 3), and to the left, at the foot of the Rue de Conde, is the
Hotel Morgan, an interesting private mansion of the end of the 15th
century. Farther on is the Jardin des Plantes (p. 31). — The Rue
au Lin, leaiiing straight ou from the Place St. Firmin, brings us to
the Beffroi (PL E, 3), an eccentric edifioe of 174S (restored in 1865),
with a bell weighing 11 tons. The church of St. Germain (PL E, 3),
lying somewhat to the left, dates from the 15th cent., and has a
line tower, a handsome carved portal of the llUli cent., and au an-
cient St. Sepulchre.

POIX. 2. Route. 31

The belfry rises immediately beliiiid the Hotel de Villa (PI. E, 3},
lately enlarged and almost entirely rebuilt. The peace of Amiens
(see p. 26) was signed here.

The six statues on the facade represent eminent men connected with
the town: in the middle, Gaudefroy or Geoffrey, Bishop of Amiens, and
Louis the Fat, who granted the town a charter in Ill3; to the right,
Blairies and Lemattre, killed in the defence of Amiens against the Spani-
ards in 1597; on the left, Chabaut and Leroux, distinguished magistrates
of 1527 and 1650.

The Rue Delambre leads hence to the E. to the Place Gambetta
(p. 28}. In the Rue Vergeaux (Nos. 61-63; Maison du Sagittaire)
and the Rue des Sergents (No 57), both running to the N. from the
Place Gambetta, are a couple of interesting old houses. The streets
farther to the N. lead through the 'Basse Ville' in the direction of
the citadel. To the right rises the elegant Gothic tower of the church
of St. Leu (PL F, 2), a structure of the 15th century.

Farther on, to the left, is the Hotel Bieti (l6-i8th cent.). — The Citadel
(PI. E, 1), dating mainly from the r.ign of ilenri IV (1598), is useless
under the conditions of modern warfare; and in Nov. 1870 it was com-
pelled to surrender in a few days (comp. p. 26).

To the W., before the citadel is reached, lies the Jardin des Plantes
(PI. E, 2), with a natural history collection.

Beyond the Port d'Amont, reached via the 'Basse Ville', is the
Romanesque-Byzantine Church of the Sacred Heart (PI. H, 3), com-
pleted in 1895, by Douillet.

From Amiens to Rouen (and Le Havre), 73 M., railway in 2-4 hrs.
(fares 13 fr. 20, 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 75 c). — The train follows the line to
Beauvais as far as (5 M.) Saleujc (p. 25). Beyond a tunnel, 500 yds. long,
lies (IB M.) Famechoii. — 19 M. Poix (Hotel du Cardinal).^ a prettily situated
little town, has a Gothic church of the 15-16th cent., with a richly
sculptured interior. The train now crosses a curved viaduct, 3U0 yds.
long and 10.) ft. hi>.h (line view). — 311/2 M. Abancourt (Buffet) is the
junction for Le Treport (see p. 3t)). — 35Vi M. Fonnerie. The line now
descends the valley of Bray (p. 46). 40 M. Gaillefonlaine (Hotels) has a
ruined castie and an interesting church (13th cent.). — 441/2 M. Serqueux
(Buffet) is the junction for the line from Paris to Pontoise and Dieppe
(p. 46). 50 M. iSommery. Tunnel, 1600 yds. long. 5S M. Monte ro Her- B achy,
from which there is a branch to Cleres, Motteville, and Le Havre (p. 65).
We now begin to descend rapidly towards Rouen. 68 M. Sarnetal (Croix
Blanche; Lecomte)^ an industrial place with 6750 inhab., prettily situated in
a little valley. Near the Hotel de Ville is the Tour de Carville, a hand-
some belfry of 1512-li. Fine view of Rouen to the right. — 73 M. Rouen
(Gare du Nord), see p. 48.

From Amiens (St. Rocii) to Beaucamp-le-Vieux, 30 M., narrow-gauge
line, traversing a wool-manufacturing district. It is to be continued to
Vieux Rouen on the Treport line (p. 36).

From Amiens to Arras, Douai, Valenciennes., etc., see R. 9^ to DouUens,
St. Pol, etc., see pp. 24, 23; to lilieims via Tergnier, see R. 13.

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mers).

I. From Paris to Beauvais.

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont.
49 M. Railway in I3/4-2V2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c).
Trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. B, C, 23, 24). See also the Map,
p. 100. — To Le Tr&port by this route, 114 M., in 3-61/2 hrs. (fares 20 fr.
60, 13 fr. 95 c, 9 fr.). — Omnibuses plv from the station at Le Treport
to Mers (30 c).

32 Route 3. BEAUMONT. From Paris

From Paris to (41/9 M.) St. Denis, see p. 101 ; and for details as
far as Beaumont, see Baedeker s Handbook to Paris. — We pass the
Fort de la Bridie. Beyond (6 M.) Epinay we cross the Ligne de
Grande Ceinture. Montmorency and its forest appear on the left.

11 M. Ecouen-Ezanville. The chateau of Ecouen, to the right,
built in the 16th cent., is now used as a school for daughters of
members of the legion of honour. — 13 M. Domont.

151/2 M. Montsoult, from which a branch-line, 7 M. long, runs
to Luzarches. The line now descends a picturesque valley and inter-
sects a portion of the Forest of Carnelle. To the right is seen the
magnificent modern Chateau of Franconville. — The train crosses
the Oise and joins the line from Paris via Pontoise (p. 48).

23 M. Persan-Beaumont. Persan is an industrial village to the
left. Beaumont [Hotel des Quatre-Fils-Aymcn, facing the bridge),
a small town with 3450 inhab., is picturesquely situated, 1/2 M. from
the railway, on a height on the left bank of the Oise. The *Church,
reached by a lofty flight of steps, is an interesting building of the
13th century. On the other side of the town is part of the old wall
of the Chateau, with round towers at the corners.

From Beaumont to Cueil, 13 M., railway in 35-40 min. (fares 2 fr. 65 c,
2 fr., 1 fr. 45 c). The train ascends the valley of the Oise. — 8'/-' M. St.
Leu- d'' Esse vent^ the conspicuous chur<.h of which is chiefly of the 12th cent.:,
the largest of its three towers is Romanesque. — 13 M. Creil, see p. 101.

A narrow-gauge line, of no interest for the tourist, also runs from Beau-
mont to (20 M.) Hermes (p. 33).

251/2 M. Chamhly, with an abbey-church (13th cent. ; to the right).
Several small stations. 33 M. iy/fr«(Il6t. Angonin). a prettily-situated
town with 45G0 inhabitants. The whole of this district is engaged
in the manufacture of buttons, brushes, and fancy goods of all kinds.
— 371/2 M. La Boissitre-le-Dtluge. The train now passes through
a tunnel, nearly 1 M. long, and descends the picturesque valley of
the Therain. Beyond (47 M.) Villers-sur- There we cross the The'-
rain, and the imposing cathedral of Beauvais soon comes into sight
on the right. — 49 M. Beauvais, see p. 33.

b. Via Chantilly and Creil.
541/2 5r. Railway in 13/4-21/2 hrs. (fares as above). — To Le Trtj3or< by this
route, 119 M., in ^^jz-Vji hrs. (faros as above).

From Paris to (32 M.) CreiU see R. 15 a. On leaving Creil the
train, returns for a short distance in the direction of Paris, then
enters the valley of the Therain to the right, and crosses the river
several times. — 3372 ^1- Montataire (p. 101); 35 M. Cramoisy, in the
neighbourhood of which are extensive quarries of building-stone. —
37V2M. Cires-les-Mello. The chateau of Mello, on a hill to the right,
dates from the 18th century. — 39 M. Balayny-Saint-Epin.

41 M. Mouy-Bury. Mouy (Hot. du Commerce), to the left, is a
cloth-making town with 3300 inhab. ; Bury, to the right, has a
priory-church of the ll-13th centuries. — 44 M. Heilles-Moitchy.

I

to Beauvais. BEAUVAIS. 3. Route. 33

The fine chateau of Mouchy^ 1 i/oM^- to the left, dates from the period
of the Renaissance. It contains some fine portraits and other paintings,
sculptures by Pajou, Houdon, Oarpeaux, etc., and a valuable library.

— 46 m, Hermes (railway to Beaumont, see p. 32). — 47M. Vlllers-
St-Sepulcre^ so called from a St. Sepulchre in the church, enclosing
a slab from the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. Ruined priory of the
11th century. — 50 M. Rochy-Conde. Branch to Clermont (Soissons,
Compiegne) and St. Just, see pp. 25, 24. On the hillside to the left
is the Chateau of Merlemont^ partly of the 16th century. — The
church of (52 M.) Therdonne has a fine Gothic choir. The railway
now joins the preceding route.

541/2 M. Beauvais (Buffet). — Hotels. De Fkance & d'Angletekre,
Rue de la Manufacture, near the station, R., L., & A. 2V2, B. 1, dej. 3,
D. 31/2, omn. V2 fr. ; Continental, Place de THotel-de-Ville 37, new, R.
2-21/2, dej. 3, D. 3'/2 fr.; Ecu, Rue de TEcu 26, de la Gake, pens. 6V2 fr.,
both unpretending. — Cafes. Bu Chalet, Potard, Place de THotel-de-Ville.

— Cabs. 1-2 pers. per drive 80 c, per hr. IV2 fr. \ 3 pers., 1 fr. 10 c, 2 fr. 5
4pers., 1 fr. 40 c, 2'/2 fr.

Beauvais., an ancient manufacturing town on the Therain, with
19,900 inhab., is the capital of the Departement de VOise and the
seat of a bishop. Carpets, woollen cloths, military cloth, gold and
silver lace, buttons, and brushes are among the chief manufactures.

Beauvais occupies the site of the ancient capital of the Bellovaci, sub-
dued by Ca'sar. Christianity was introduced here about the middle of the
3rd cent, by St. Lucian, who met a martyr's death in the neighbourhood.
Fortllied in 1190 by Philip Augustus, the town was able to defy the attack
of Edward III, in 1346; but about 1420 it was placed in the hands of the
English by its bishop, Pierre Cauchon, who afterwards appeared at Rouen
as the condemner of .Joan of Arc. lu its gallant resistance to Charles the
Bold and his army of 80,000 men in 1472 the women of Beauvais especially
distinguished themselves by their courage, and one of them, Jeanne Laine
or 'Hachette'' by name, captured with her own hands a hostile banner,
now preserved in the Hotel de Ville. The event is still annually celebrated
on the Sun. nearest St. Peter's day (June 29th).

In coming from the station, we cross the spacious boulevards,
and keep straight on by the Avenue de la Republique and the Rue
de la Manufacture. A little to the left is the Manufactory of Tap-
estry^ founded in 1664, i.e. only two years after the state-factory
of Gobelins at Paris, of which it is the only branch. Visitors are
admitted to the small museum and the workshops (more interest-
ing) daily, except,holidays, 8-12 and 1,30-5 p.m. ; on Sun,, however,
the looms are not working.

The Beauvais establishment chiefly makes tapestry for furniture, adorned
with landscapes, flowers, ornamental designs animals, and pastoi-al scenes,
but no historical or mythological subjects. Beauvais tapestry diff'ers from
Gobelins in being woven on low-warp (basse lisse) looms, in which the
warp-threads are horizontal, while Gobelins is woven on high-warp (haute
lisse) looms, with vertical warp-threads. An area of 41/2 sq. inches is the
average daily task of a good workman. The visitor who has previously
seen only faded old tapestry will be struck with the beauty and brightness
of the colours and the delicacy of the shading, each distinct hue being
represented by twenty-four different shades. Silk is sometimes used iu
representing flowers, fruit, and metallic lustre, but the whole of the rest
of the work is in wools, the colours of which are more durable. There

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 3

34 Route 3. BEAUVAIS. From Paris

is, of course, no room for the display of originality, as the works are all
copies of pictures or cartoons.

The Church of St. Stephen, farther on, an edifice of the 12th,
13th, and 16th cent., exhihits a curious blending of Romanesque
and Gothic. It has a large W. tower and a fine rose-window in the
N. transept.

Interioe. By the second pillar on the right is a Mater Dolorosa under
a Gothic canopy ; in the right aisle, Crucifixion of a saint (12th cent.)^ on
the pillars near the choir, eight small paintings on panel (16th cent.) 5 in
the first chapel on the right, a modern Mater Dolorosa; in the second
chapel on the left, an Ecce Homo (15th cent.). Good vaulting and 16th cent.
stained glass in the choir and ambulatory.

Turning to the right as we quit the church, we soon reach the
Kue St. Jean, which leads, past several old timber houses, to the
fine Place de V Hotel- de- Ville , embellished with a bronze statue
of Jeanne Hachette (see p. 33), by Dubray, erected in 1851. The
Hotel de Ville (18th cent.) has its council-chamber adorned with
five paintings from the history of the town, by D. Maillart. To the
right, in the court, is the Library (open on Sun., Wed., & Thars.
12-4, Frid. 7-10 p.m.; closed in Sept.), containing 20,000 vols, and
Jeanne Hachette's banner (p. 33; restored in lb51).

The *Cathedral (St. Pierre), to the N.W., though consisting
merely of a choir and transepts, ranks as one of the finest Gothic
buildings in France. Its proportions are gigantic to the verge of
temerity. The exterior height, to the ridge, is 225 ft. ; the vaulting,
which has twice fallen in because the pillars and buttresses were
too weak and too few, rises lo2 ft. (some authorities say 157 ft.)
above the pavement, while an open-work spire which soared above
the crossing to the giddy height of 500 ft., fell in 1573 because it
was unstayed on the W., through the absence of a nave.

Begun in 1247, the works went on, with interruptions, until after 1578.
Toe choir was perhaps designed by Eudes de Monlreuil, the architect of
St. Lonis; the ^. portal was ereoted at the expense of Francis I. h} Mar-
tin Chambiges, who worked also at Sens and Troyes; the 8. portal is due to
Michel Lalye. The "S Portal (1548), excelling the entire facades of many
other cathedrals both in size and magnilicence, has unfortunately been
stripped of its statues, though it is still richly adorned with carving. It is
surmounted by a double open arcade, a large rose-window, and a fine
gable, while it is strengthened by two buttresses in the form of turrets.
The beautifully carved oaken "Doors are by Jean le Pot- The N. Portal
(1537), though not rivalling the other, is also rich; its carved doors, also
by Jean le Pot., ar>' in better preservation.

Interior. The beauty of the Choir has given rise to the saying that
'the choir of Beauvais, the nave of Amiens, the portal of Rheims, and the
towers of Charlres would together make the fine<t church in the world'.
The piers that have been added for the sake of strengthening the building
are easily distinguished. The choir is upwards of 104 ft. long, and its
windows are 50-55 ft. in height. 'There are few rocks, even among the Alps',
says Euskin in his ''Seven Lumps of Avchilecture\''ih.i\.i\i&\e, a clear vertical
fall as hig has the choir of Beauvais'. The ambulatory is fringed with C/iap-
els. The second on the right is adorned with a modern fresco by A. Grel-
let, representing .leanne Hachette capturing the banner; the apsidal chap-
els contain paintings in grisaille and modern stained glass in the style
of the 13th century. To the left of the choir is the Sacristy., adjoining
Which arc a marble statue of Cardinal Forbin Janson, by X. Cousiou (173S),

to Le Treport. BEAIJVAIS. 3. Route. 35

a Clock of the 16tli cent., which plays sacred music, and two Tapestries
(16th cent.), probably made at Beauvais, representing the fabulous origin
of France, from Ronsard's 'La Franciade\ Another tapestry of this series,
one of 1460, and eight other of the 17th cent., after EaphaeFs cartoons,
are displayed in the transepts. In the left choir-chapel is a modern *' Astro-
nomical Clock, 39 ft, high, 19 ft. broad, and 9 ft. deep ; it is composed of
90,000 pieces, has 52 dials, and gives 80 distinct indications (apply to the
sacristan, 1 fr.; on Sat. & Sun. 50 c).

To the W. of the cathedral is a portion of the original church,
known as the Basse (Euvre, a Romano-Byzantine structure, referred
to the 8th or even the 6th century. It contains tapestry of the 15-
17th centuries.

The Gateway^ flanked by two towers, resem'bling pepper-hoxes,
on the S.W. of the Place de la Cathe'drale, belongs to the Palais de
Justice, formerly the bishop's palace. It dates from the 14th cent.,
the palace itself from the 16th, though the foundations of the latter
are Gallo- Roman work, at one time forming part of the town-walls.
The fine restored Romanesque tower at the back is now partly
concealed by trees. — The ancient building, with remains of an old
Gothic cloister, behind the Basse Q^^uvre is now occupied by a small
'Musee (open free on Sun. & holidays, 12-4, to strangers on other
Tdays also).

The Musee chiefly contains Gallo-Roman antiquities, with a few paint-
ings, natural hi-^tory specimens, and (in the cloister and garden) some inter-
esting architectural fragments and sculptures. In the second room are a
Bearded Mercury (stele), a richly carved wooden altar (17th cent.), several
heads of statues, wood-carvings, chests, and numerous small antiquities.

■ A little to the N. of the cathedral is the Bishop's Palace (1878-82),
rich in works of art.

Several quaint Old Houses are to be found in the streets near
the cathedral; e.g. in the Rue St. Laurent (Nos. 25 and 27), diverg-
ing to the W. from the Rue de I'Eveche, and in the Rue Philippe-
de-Beaumanoir and Rue St. Paul, on the other side of the church.
Farther on, adjoining a savings-bank, is a Gothic house, opposite
which is a corner-turret with a leaden figure of St. Michael, of the
Gothic period. A few yards farther on we reach the Place Ernest-
Ge'rard and the Theatre, to the left from which lie the Place de I'Hotel-
de-Ville and St. Etienne.

A good view of the town is obtained from the Square du Reservoir, a
promenade on a hill, 5-7 min. walk from the station, on the other side
of the Therain. — About 1/4 M. to the !N. of the station is a large tree-
shaded space known as the Jeu de Paume, where a band plays in summer
from 3 to 4 p.m. and tennis-matches take place. The Lycie farther on ad-
joins a hill on which once lay a Roman amphitheatre.

The church of the suburb of Marissel, to the N.E., has a Romanesque
tower, a choir of the 12th cent., a nave and portal of the 16th, and a
magnificent wooden altar-piece of the same date.

From Beauvais to Gournat (Dieppe), 18 M., railway in 50 min. (fares
3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). This route a«cends the ValUe de Bray
(p. 46). - 131/2 M. St. Oermer. The village (Hotel), i^/t M. to the S.W.,
has an interesting Abbey Church, in the Transition style, partly rebuilt at
a later date. The "Sainte Chapelle, a reduced copy of the magnificent
Sainte Chapelle at Paris, was added to the E. end in the 13th century. —
18 M. Oournay, see p. 46.

3*

36 Route 3. EU. From Paris

From Beauvais to Gisoes, 21 V2 M., railway in 1 lir. (fares 3 fr. 90,
2fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c.). — I6V2 M. Trye-Chdteau (p. 47). — 2IV2 M. Gisors,
see p. 46.

From Beauvais to Amiens, see p. 25; to Clermont, Compiigne, and
Soissons, see p. 25 ; to St. Just^ Pivonne, and Cambrai, see p. 24 and R. 8.

II. From Beauvais to Le Treport.

641/2 M. Railway in 2-33/4 lirs. (fares 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 95, 5 fr. 15 c.).

We follow the Amiens line as far as (59 M.) St. Omer-en-
Chaussee (p. 25). Several small stations follow.

78 M. Abancourt (Buffet), before and after wbicb we follow for
a short distance the line from Rouen to Amiens (p. 31). — The
railway descends rapidly. 82 M. Gourchelles ; 83 M. Quincampoix.

85 M. Aumale ( Chapeau-Rouge) , a small town prettily situated
on the Bresle, which was formerly the E. boundary of Normandy.
Henri IV was severely wounded here in 1592 and narrowly escaped
capture by the Leaguers. The Kue Centrale, passing the Hotel de
Ville (16-17th cent.), leads from near the station to the chief build-
ing, the church of St. Pierre et St. Paul, rebuilt in 1508-1610, after
its destruction by Charles the Bold, who burned the town in 1472.
The portals, the pulpit (ITth cent.), the stained glass (IGth cent.),
and a Holy Sepulchre are noteworthy. The title of Due d' Aumale
was borne by the fourth son (1822-97) of Louis Philippe.

We now descend the pretty valley of the Bresle. 97iy2^1- Blangy-
sur-Bresle (Hotel de la Poste), an industrial village with a Gothic
church (12-15th cent); 100 M. Monchaux.

103 M. Longroy- Gamaches is the junction for Longpre (p. 15).
Gamaches ((jrand Cerf), a small though ancient tOAvn to the right,
contains an interesting church of the 12th, 13th, and 15th centuries.

112 M. Eu {Hotel du Cygne, pens. 7^2 fr-; de France, G fr.), a
town with 4800 inhab. , on the Bresle, was a favourite residence of
\,ouis Philippe, who received Queen Victoria at the Chateau here
n 1843 and 1845. The latter was built in the 16-17th cent., though
altered in modern times. Louis Philippe inherited it from his mother,
the Duchess of Orle'ans, in 1821, and restored it with much magnifi-
cence. The chapel has some modern stained glass from Sevres, de-
signed by Paul Delaroche and Chenavard. The tine Park (no adm.),
laid out by Le Notre, commands a view of the sea. — The Church
of St. Lawrence, a handsome Gothic edirtce of the 12-13th cent., is
notable for the curious double arches between the pillars of the
nave. In a small chapel on the right are a Holy Sepulchre and a
Head of Christ (IGth cent.). The Madonna in the apsidal chapel is
said to be one of the earliest works of one of the brothers Anguier,
who were born at Eu in the 17th century. — The Chapelle du Col-
lege, built by the Jesuits in 1622-24, contains the monument of
Henri of Guise, 'le Balafre" or 'the Scarred' (d. 1588), and his wife
Anne of Cloves, with their statues and bas-reliefs. — The Fore^'l
of Eu, 3 M. to the S.W., is a favourite spot for excursions.

to Le Treport. LE TREPORT. 3. Route. 37

Branch-railway to (21V2 M.)" Abbeville, see p. 14.

A Diligence plies daily in summer from Eu to (5 M.) Ault (1 fr.) and
(6 M.) Onival (1 fr. 30 c.). — Ault, or Bourg-d'AuU (St. Pierre; de France;
de Paris. — Lodgings., Casino)., is a small sea-bathing resort at the end of a
narrow valley. — Onival (Continental; de la Plage. — Casino), another
small bathing-resort, lies at the end of the cliffs and at the beginning of
a bank of shingle extending to beyond (5V2 M.) Cayeux (p. 12).

A marshy district, between hills, is now traversed. The rail-
way passes a little to the left of Mers (see below).

113^2 M. Le Treport. — Hotels. Hotel de la Plage, des Bains, de
France, with sea-view, dej. 31/2, D- 4 fr. ^ de l'Europe, not so well
situated, R. from 3 fr.-, de Calais, in the upper part of the town, at some
distance from the beach, dej. 21/2, pens. 6-9 fr.

Sea-Baths. Cabin 30 c, costume 60 c, 'peignoir' 20-25 c, bathing at-
tendant 50 c.

Casino. Adm. for 1 day IV2 fr. ; subscription for a fortnight 14 fr.,
for a month 25 fr. ; 2 pers. 24 and 40 fr. ; 3 pers. 30 and 50 fr.

Omnibus to Mers (30 c.) •, to En (30 c).

Le Treport^ a small town with 4750 inhah., is situated at the
mouth of the Bresle., at the base of a lofty cliff. The town itself
is quite uninteresting, and its small harbour is chiefly used by
flshing-boats. Tre'port, however, from its proximity to Paris , is a
very popular sea-bathing resort, in spite of its small and disagree-
ably shingly beach, which is to a great extent monopolized by the
Casino, recently rebuilt. The space betwixt the cliff and the sea is
very narrow, a fact which reacts upon the streets and the houses,
so that lodging in the town is not recommended, more especially as
the odours emitted by the harbour at low water and the close con-
tact with the fishing population are anything but agreeable. Bath-
ing, lounging on the pier, and the amusements of the casino are
the only alternative distractions to walking to Eu (p. 36) or Mers
and ascending the cliff. An attempt has been made to create
a visitors' quarter on the top of the cliff by the construction of flights
of stairs with 378 steps, but the speculation has hitherto failed and
the streets remain unbuilt.

The only noteworthy edifices in the old town are the Hotel de
Ville, in a tower of the 16th cent., recently altered; a Timber
House dating from the Renaissance period (higher up, to the right,
opposite the church); and the Church of St. Jacques., which rises
above the harbour. The chief objects of interest in the last, which
was built in the 16th cent., are the Madonna at the entrance , the
key-stones of the vaults , the modern stained glass (by Lusson),
the altar-pieces, the Descent from the Cross in painted stone, and the
piscina in a chapel to the right of the choir.

Mers. — Hotels. Grand Hotel du Casino (pens. 9-12 fr.), Bellevue
(pens. 7-10 fr.), both on the beach; des Bains, R. & A. 3-6 fr., L. 30 c,
-B. 3/4^ dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. incl. wine, pens. T-U, omn. 1/2 fr. •, Petit, pens.
7-10 fr.; de Mers; the three last on the 'prairie'.

Sea-Baths. Cabin 30 c., costume 60 c., 'peignoir' SO c, attendant 40 c.

Casino. Adm. for one dav 1, per week 4 fr., fortnight 6^/4 fr., month
12 fr., etc.; 2 pers. V/i, 12, & 21 fr. ; 3 pers. 11, 18, & 3IV2 fr.

3/aM.

38 Route 4. DIEPPE. From Dieppe

distant. It lies at some distance from tlie right tank of the Bresle
and has in consequence no evil-smelling harbour. The space between
the cliffs and the sea is wider than at Le Treport, the beach is
broader and less shingly, and the visitors occupy a quarter by them-
selves. The Casino is a large and handsome building.
From Le Treport to Dieppe, see p. 41.

4. From Dieppe to Paris.

106 or 125 M. Railway in 3i/2-6'/4 hrs. The quickest trains run via
Rouen, though that route is the longest in mileage. — From London to
Dieppe, see p. xiii.

Dieppe. — Hotels. Hotel Royal (PI. a), D. 6 fr. •, Ge. Hot. Francais
(PI. h), well spoken of, pens. 121/2-15 fr.; 6k. Hot. M£tkopole et des Bains
(PJ. d), R. 4-15, L. & A. 13/4, B. 1, dej. 5, D. 5, pens. 12, omn. I-IV2 fr. ;
DES Etkangers (PI. f); Grand Hotel (PI. g) ; all these first-class hotels
are in the Rue Aguado (PL C, D, E, 1), facing the sea and open only dur-
ing the season. — 'Hotel de Paris (PL m; C, 1), Place de Camille Saint-
Saens, opposite the Casino 5 d'Albion et Terminus (PL h; E, 2), Quai
Henri IV, near the steamhoat-wharf ; de la Paix (PL j; C, 2), Grande
Rue 212; Chariot dX)r (PL k; C, 2), Rue de la Barre; des Familles (PL 1;

C, 2), Rue de rH6tel-de-Ville 29. — Hot. du Globe et Victoria (Pl.o;

D, 2), Rue Duquesne 8; du Rhin et de Newhaven (Pl.e; C, 1), Rue Aguado;
■DU Commerce (Pl.n; D, 2), Place Nationale, R., L., & A. 2V2-4, B. 1,
d^j. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 8-9 fr.; Soleil dOr, Rue Gamhetta 4 (PL B, 2), pens,
from 8 fr. Travellers are recommended to ascertain the prices beforehand.
— Furnished Apartments are also easily found in the Rue Aguado.

Restaurants. Cafi-Restaurant du Casino, on the beach, dej. 4, D. 5fr. ;
An Faisan Dori, Grande Rue 74, do'j. 2, D. 2^/2 fr. ; Hdtel des Arcades and
others under the arcades of the Bourse, next the Poissonnerie, D. iV2-2 fr. ;
Buffet, at the Gare Maritime.

Cafes. Caf^ Suisse, Grande Rue 1, and in the Arcades; Caf^ de Rouen,
Cafi dies Tribunavx, both at the other end of the Grande Rue.

Gabs with seats for two pers. IV4 fr. per drive (after midnight 27'.' fr.),
1^/4 or 3V2 fr. per hr.; with four seats l^/z-S and 2-4 fr. respectively.

Post & Telegraph Office (PL 14), Quai Berigny and at the baths in
summer.

Baths (see p. 39). Sea-Bat/>s. Bathing hut or tent 75 c. (6 tickets 8 fr.
60 c), children less. Costume 50, 'peignoir' 25, towel 15, sandals 15 c.;
guide-baigneur 50 c. — Warm Baths (PL 1; C, 1), with fresh or salt water,
in the adjoining annexe, IV2-2V4 fr. — Casino, see p. 39.

Casino. Adm. in the forenoon 50 c., afternoon 1 fr., evening or whole
day 3fr. ; subscription per week 12, fortnight 20, month 35, season 60 fr. ;

2 pers. 22, 36, 6J, and 110 fr. ; 3 pers. 33, 52, 80, and 160 fr. — Theatre,
adm. 1-5 fr.

Steamboats to Newhaven twice a day.

British Vice-Consul, //. W. Lee-Jorlin, Esq., Rue du Faubourg de la
Barre 2. — U. S. Consular Agent, M. Raoulle Bourgeois, <v>uai de Lille 8.

English Churches. Christ Church, Rue Dcmarest; services on Sun.
at 11 and 7 (in summer 7.30); Chaplain. Rev. Dr. Merk, M. A. — All Saints,
Rue de la Barre; services at 11 and 7.30; Chaplain, Rev. F. J. Johnston
Smith, Lh.D.

Golf Links, on the Pourville road, 1 M. from Dieppe (visitors' fees,

3 fr. per day, 10 fr. per week, 25 fr. per month).

Dieppe, with 22,440 inhab., is situated in a valley formed by
two ranges of lofty white chalk-rliffs , at the mouth of the .■\rque$,
which forms a harbour capable of containing vessels of considerable
§ize. The estuary was formerly called the 'Deep', from which the

to Paris. DIEPPE. 4. Route. 39

town derives its name. In spite of the vicinity of Le Havre, Dieppe
still carries on a considerable trade in coal with England and in
timber with Norway and Sweden. Fish is, however, the staple com-
modity of the place. Dieppe is also a fashionable watering-place,
being annually visited by numerous English , as well as French
families. Captured and destroyed several times during the wars
between England and France and afterwards in the religious wars,
Dieppe suffered severely from the plague in 1668 and 1670, and in
1694 the citadel and town were reduced to luins by the English
fleet returning from an unsuccessful attack on Brest (p. 219).

The Gare Maritime (PI. E, 2} and the Steamboat Quays are on
the N. side of the old Avant Port or outer harbour. To the S.W.,
beyond the Bassins Duquesne and Berigny, lies the Central Station
(PI. C, 3) ; and to the E., between the Bassin Duquesne and the
suburb of Le PoHet (PI. E, 3) , inhabited by sailors and fishermen
said to be of Venetian origin, are several basins opened in 1887.
To the N. of the Gare Maritime extends the old Vieux Chenal, or
harbour-entrance; a good view may be obtained from the W. pier.
On the opposite cliffs rises the modern Gothic church of Notre-Dame-
de-Bon-Secours (PI. F, 2). The Quai Henri IV, on which stands
the College (PI. D, 2), built in the 18th cent., leads to the W. from
the Gare Maritime. At its W. end is the Poissonnerie, or Fish- Market
(Pl.D, 2), which presents a busy and animated scene in the morning.

Along the N. side of the town , between the sea and the Rue
Aguado, in which are the principal hotels, stretches La Plage (PL C,
D, E, 1), a handsome marine park or promenade, 2/3 M. long. The
tall chimneys seen in the Rue Aguado belong to t he extensive To-
bacco Manufactory (PI. 9).

At the W. extremity of the Plage is the Casino or Etablissewent
de Bains (PI. C, 1"), a handsome brick and glass structure replete
with every convenience and including a small theatre (adm., see
p. 38). In front of it are placed about 200 small cabins or tents,
used as dressing-rooms, from which the bathers descend into the
water, accompanied by a guide-baigneur, if necessary. In fine weather
the scene is very amusing, and novel withal to the English visitor.

The site of the casino was occupied until the end of the 14th
cent, by a small harbour, a relic of which still exists in the Porte
du Port-d' Quest (PI. 13 ; C, 1), a gateway with two round towers, to
the S. Close by, in the Place de Saint-Saens, is the Theatre (PI. 16;
C, 2); and to the E. are the Warm Baths (PI. 1; C, 1) and the
Hotel de Ville (PI. 8 ; C, 1, 2). — The Musee (PL 11 ; C, 1), in the
Rue de I'Hotel-de- Ville, contains antiquities found in the neigh-
bourhood, local curiosities, a natural history collection, and some
paintings, besides the artistic collections (furniture, bronzes, sculp-
tures, paintings, etc.) and library recently presented to his native
town by Camille Saint-Saens, the composer. Adm. daily, except
Mop., in summer, 11-4, in winter on Thurs., Sat., and Sun., 11-3,

40 Route 4. DIEPPE. From Dieppe

The Rue Sygogne (PI. B, 1, 2), whicli skirts the base of the
castle-hill, is now one of the finest streets in Dieppe, mainly through
the exertions of M. Frosmont , who is here commemorated hy a
handsome fountain.

On a precipitous white cliff at the W. extremity of the Plage rises
the picturesque Castle (Vl.B, 1, 2), with its massive walls,' towers,
and hastions, erected in 1435 as a defence against the English, In
1694, however, it was unable to resist the cannonade of the English
fleet (p. 39). The castle is now used as barracks, and visitors are
not allowed to pass through it to the fine points of view on the
adjoining cliffs. These, however, may be reached by other routes,
farther on.

We regain the town by the Rue de la Barre, which is continued
to the E., to the Qnai Henri IV, by the Grande Rue,

The church of St. Remy (PI. 5; C, 2). not far from the castle,
in a mixed style of the 16th and 17th cent, contains huge round
columns, of which those in the choir have elaborately carved cap-
itals. In the Lady Chapel, and at the entrance to the sacristy, on the
left of the choir, are some good sculptures. The organ-case dates
from the 18th cent. ; the stained glass (by Lusson) is modern.

The church of St. Jacques (PI. 4; C, D, 2), a little farther on.
is an interesting florid Gothic edifice, dating from the 12-16th cent,
and possessing all that 'lace-like beauty of detail and elaborate
finish, which charms in spite of soberer reason, that tells us it is
not in stone that such vagaries should be attempted' (Fergusson).
The 14th cent, portal is flanked with turrets, adorned with statues
in niches; the W. tower dates from the 16th century. The interior
is fine. The bosses of the vaults of the choir and several of the
chapels are sculptured ; and the church also contains other rich
carved work in the Pointed and Renaissance styles, such as the
balustrade of the choir, the screen of the first chapel on the right
(enclosing a modern Holy Sepulchre), the screens of some of the
other chapels, and the fine arches to the left of the choir. The chief
attraction of the interior is, however, the Lady Chap^el, richly
adorned with sculptures and modern stained glass by Lusson, re-
presenting the Death and Coronation of the Virgin, the Vision of
Pope Pius v., the Triumph of Don Juan after Lepanto, the Capture
of Le Pollet by Louis XI. in 1443, and the procession which
followed. The fine wooden staircase in the sacristy, the modern
choir-stalls, the organ-case, and the pulpit are noteworthy.

The Place Nationale, adjoining the church, is embellished with
a fine Statue ofDuquesne(V\. 15 ; D.2), a native of Dieppe, and one
of the most illustrious admirals of France, who defeated tlie Dutch
admiral De Ruyter in 1676. The statue is by the elder Dantan.

The most interesting point in the environs of Dieppe is the ruined castle
of Argues (p. 45), situated 4 M, to the S.E. The excursion may he mado
by train or by carriage (there and btack 5 or G fr.). The *View from the
castle embraces the valleys of the Arques, the Bithune, and the Eaulne.

to Paris. PUYS. 4, Route. 41

About 21/2 M. to the W. of Dieppe, by the cliffs of the Caude-Cote, lies
Pourville (Hotel Graf), a prettily situated little bathing-place at the mouth
of the Scie, which may also be reached by rail or (in summer) by om-
nibus. AtVarangeville, 21/2 M. farther on, is the Manoir <£ Ango., a farmhouse
built in the 16th cent, by the merchant-prince Ango of Dieppe, who enter-
tained Francis I. here, and 1 1/4 M. farther is the Lighthouse ofAillij. From
Varangeville we may go on to (V4 hr.) Ste. Marguerite^ at the mouth of the
Saane, and Qmherville (Hot. du Casino ; des Bains), a small Liathing-place,
reached also by omnibus direct from Dieppe (8V2 M.). — Puys {Hotel de Ftiys^
of the first class; furnished houses to let) is a pretty little bathing-place,
with fine villas, l'/4 M. to the N.E. of Dieppe by the shore (at low tide
only), 2V2 BI. via Le Pollet. It may also be reached by omnibus (3/4 fr. ;
11/4 fr. there and back). The Marquis of Salisbury has a villa here. The
Citi de Limes or Camp de C^sar, on the cliff to the right as we approach,
is said to have been a Gallic 'oppidum'. — Berneval (Hot. .de la Plage;
Grand Hotel) is another bathing-place, 7 M. to the N.E. of Dieppe, to
which a diligence (IV4 fr.) plies in connection with the trains.

Fkom Dieppe to St. Valeuy-en-Caux and ('ant, 33 and 29^/2 M., rail-
way, forming part of a new direct line from Dieppe to Le Havre, which
is to be continued from St-Vaast-Bosville to Les Ifs (p. 67). We follow
the Rouen line imtil beyond the first tunnel (see below), then cross the Scie.,
and proceed to the W. — From (25V2 M.) St -Vnast- Bosville., on the line
from Rouen to St. Valery-en-Caux (p. 65), a branch leads to Canij (p. ()6).

From Dieppe to Le Tk^port , 28 M., railway in IV4-IV2 hr. (fares
5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 30 c). — 21/2 M. nouxmesnil, on the Pontoise line
(p. 45). The line enters the valley of the Eatilne, which it quits beyond
(10 M.) Envermeu, with a handsome church (16th cent.). — 191/2 M. Touffre-
ville-Criel. Criel (Hot. de Rouen; de la Plage), IV4 M. to the N.W., on the
Yeres, has a small bathing-place at the mouth of the river, l'/4 M. farther
on. — The line crosses the Yeres and ascends rapidly. View limited. —
26 M. Eu, see p. 36. — 28 M. Le Triport (p. 37).

a. From Dieppe to Paris vi§, Rouen.

125 M. Railway in 31/2-61/4 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 30 c).

I. From Dieppe to Rouen.

38'/2 M. Railway in I1/4-IV4 hr. (fares 3 fi-. 55, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 70 c).

Soon after quitting Dieppe the train passes through a tunnel
about 1 M. long , and then enters the valley of the Scie^ which it
crosses 22 times. 17 M. St. Victor. The line then traverses a high
emhankment, heyond which the views are attractive. At (21 1/2 M.)
Cleres (Cheval Noir) we intersect the railway from Motteville to
Amiens (p. 65), which unites the Dieppe line with the line to Le
Havre. To the left is the pretty chateau of Cleres (15-16th cent.).
28Y2 M. Monville. The line to Le Havre diverges to the right near
a small viaduct. 32 M. Malaunay. From this point to Rouen the
district traversed is cheerful and picturesque, abounding in cotton
and other factories. — 34 M. Maromme. Then two tunnels.

381/2 M. Rouen, see p. 48.

II. From Rouen to Paris.

86V2 M. Railway in 2V3-41/4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 35, 10 fr. 40, 6 fr. 80 c).
— Alternative route from Mantes to Paris, see p. 44.

Rouen, see p. 48. — The train passes through two long tunnels
and crosses the Seine, aiTording a beaiitifal view of Rouen to the
right. To the left, on the hills which rise from the river, stands the

42 Route 4. LES ANDELYS. From Rouen

church of Bonsecours (p. 58). — 39^/4 M. (from Dieppe) Sotteville^
an industrial suburb of Rouen; 42 M. St. Etienne-du-Rouvray. —
441/2 M. Oissel (small buffet).

A branch-railway runs from Oissel to (6 M.) Elbeuf-Si-Aubin (p. 59)
and (25 M.) Glos-Montfort^ the junction for Serquigny and Pont-Audmer
(see p. 156).

Beyond Oissel the train crosses the Seine. — 481/2 M- Pont-de-
I'Arche (*H6t. de Normandie^ with cafe; des Deux Oares), where the
Seine is again crossed, above the influx of the Eure, is the junction
of a line to Gisors (p. 47). The fine church of the 15-16th cent, has
some admirable wood-carving of the 17-18th, and good stained glass
of the lb-17th centuries.

About 3/4 M. to the W. is the ruined Abbey of Bonport^ founded about
1190 by Richard Coeur-de-Lion, of which the hand.'ome refectory (13th
cent.) and the abbofs lodgings are the chief remains.

To the left is the large Barrage de Poses. — 56 M. St. Pierre-du-
Vauvray. A branch-railway runs hence to (5 M.) Louviers (p. 59).

From St. Pierre-du-Vauvrat to Les Axdelys, 10 M., railway in 30-
40 min. (fares 1 fr. 90 , 1 fr. 30, 80 c). The train crosses the Seine and
beyond (31/2 ^^ ) Muids skirts the right bank of that river. To the rii;ht
appears the castle of Gaillard (see below). 7 M. La Roque; 8'/^ BI. La
Vacherie. — 10 M. Les Andelys, a town with 6000 inhab., on the right
bank of the Seine, consisting of Petit Andely (Hot. de la Chaine d'Or;
Bellevuc, well spoken of), nearest the Seine, and Grand Andely (Hot. de
Paris; Grand Cerf), i/'2 M. from the station. At the former are a number
of picturesque old houses, and the magnificent Church of St. Sauveur (12th
and 14th cent.), with a fine choir with round pillars and a good copy of
the altar-piece by Phil, de Champaigne in Rouen cathedral. — On a neigh-
bouring height are the (10 min.) ruins of the famous casile of "Gaillard,
erected by Kichard Coeur-de-Lion in 1197 to command the navigation of
the Seine and protect Normandy against the French monarchs. Chateau
Gaillard, the 'gay castle', has been described as the greatest monument
of Richard's genius, and it was certainly one of the finest specimens of
a Norman castle, either in England or Normandy. It was protected by
triple lines of outworks and 17 towers, and its walls were 8-14 ft. thick.
In 1204 this almost impregnable stronghold was captured by Philip Augustus
after a siege of five months. The castle afterwards became a state-prison,
and in 1314 was the scene of the murder of Margaret of P>urgundy, wife
of Louis X. It was destroyed by Henri IV in 1663, along with the castles
of several dangerous Is'orman barons. The donjon is still in tolerable
preservation. — The Church of Notre-Dame at Grand Andely dates from
the 18-16th cent., and contains good stained glass, choir-sialls, and various
works of art, including a Blartyrdom of St. Clara, by Q.Varin, the master
of Poussin, and a Last Supper, attributed to Lesueur. The choir has a
square termination. The market-place is embellished with a bron/.e statue,
by Brian (1851), of Nicholas Poussin (151)4-1665), who was born in the neigh-
bourhood. The H6tel de Ville possesses a large painting of Coriolanus by
this artist. — A public conveyance plies between Les Andelys and the
railway-station of Saussay-les-Ecouis (p. 47).

The train now penetrates the chalk-hills by means of two tunnels.
— 64 M. Gaillon r/Zof. d'Evreux); the town, with 3000 inhab.. lies
1 M. to the left. The chateau of Gaillon, erected in 1500 by Cardi-
nal Georges d'Amboise and now replaced by a prison, was one of
the finest in Normandy, and a favourite residence of Francis I. The
lofty facade has been removed to the court of the Ecole des Beaux^
Arts at Paris (see Baedeker s Handbook to Paris).

to Paris. MANTES. 4. Route. 43

751/2 M. Vernon (Hotel d'Evreux ; Lion-d'Or), with 8500 inhab.,
once a strongly-fortified town, possesses a conspicuous tower, erected
in 1123 by Henry I. of England. The Church is an interesting build-
ing of the 12-15th cent., containing several noteworthy works of
art. To the S. stretches the Forest of Bizy ; and on the right bank
of the Seine are Vernonnet (see below) and the Fcrest of Vernon.

From Vkrnon to Gisors, 25 M., railway in 172-8 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 60,
3 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). The trains start from a special station, adjoining the
main-line station. — We cross ihe Seine. Beyond (IV4 M.) Vernonnet,
where there are large quarries, the train enters the valley of the Epte,
and ascends it as far as Gisors. — 6 M. Gasny. Atout 1 M. to the E., on
the right bank of the Seine, lies La Roche-Guyon (Hot. de la Maison-Rouge ;
Hot. Pitre), with a ruined chateau of the 12-16th cent., another partly
modern chateau belonging to the Larochefoucauld family, and a Con-
valescents' Home in connection with the hospitals at Paris. — IO1/2 M.
Bray-Ecos. The village of Bray has a zinc-foundry ; Ecos, about 3 M. to
the W., is interesting on account of the fine Chateau du Chesnoy, dating
from the 15-16th cent., but largely rebiiilt in modern times, and lavishly
adorned with sculptures and paintings from the hand of the proprietor,
M. de Pulligny. — At (I8V2 M.) Dangu is a 16th cent, chateau, surrounded
with an extensive park. Dangu also contains a zinc- foundry. — 22 M.
Inval. To the left, the tower of Neaufies (12th cent.). Our line now ioins
the railway from Pont-de-l'Arche (p. 47). 24V2 M. Gisors -Ville. — 25 M.
Gisors-Ouest.

Another railway runs from Vernon to (IOV2 M.) Pacy-sur-Eure, where
it joins the line from Bueil to Elbeuf (p. 59).

The long tunnel between (82 M.) Bonnieres and Rollehoise cuts
off the wide circuit which the river describes here. The chateau of
La Roche-Guyon (see above) lies about 5 M. distant. A branch from
Bonnieres joins the line to Gisors (see above). — At the chateau of
(84 M.) Rosny Sully, the celebrated minister of Henri IV, was
born in 1559. The Duchess of Berry resided in it from 1818 to 1830.

921/2 M. Mantes (Grand Cerf; Rocher de Cancale), a picturesque
town with 8000 inhab., surnamed ''La Jolie\ has two railway-sta-
tions : Mantes-Station, where many of the trains do not stop, and
Mantes-Embranchement (Buffet), where the route to Caen and Cher-
bourg (R.21) diverges. The Avenue de la Republique, leading from
the latter station to the Place de la Republique, and the Rue Na-
tionale, leading thence to the Seine, are the most important of the
broad streets which characterize this town.

The old tower of St. Maclou, open at the top and adorned with
carved niches for statues (some of which remain), unites the Gothic
and Renaissance styles; it dates from the 14th century. The ad-
joining Hotel de Ville and Tribunal are both ancient but devoid of
interest; between them is a Renaissance Fountain of 1521.

It was at ^e capture of Mantes that William the Conqueror
received by a fall from his horse the injury of which he afterwards
died at Rouen (1087); and that prince is said to have bequeathed a
large sum for the erection of the present Gothic church of *Notre-
Dame on the site of one burned down during the siege. The bulk
of the edifice dates from the end of the 12th cent., though it has
been frequently altered and recently restored. The elegant gallery

44 Routed. POISSY. From Rouen

at the top of the towers, formed hy a douWe "balustrade, is modern.
The W. facade is embellished with a fine rose-window and the triple
portal is richly sculptured, though unfortunately mutilated. The
part to the right dates from the 14th century.

The fme Interior, which consists of a nave, aisles, and choir, without
transepts, is unusually brightly lighted, owing to the absence of stained
windows. In the nave round pillars alternate with clustered columns,
some of which rise as high as the lofty vaulting. The pillars at the end
of the choir, and those supporting the stilted Gothic arches, are specially
noteworthy. The triforium gallery is lighted by small windows from
behind. The towers, from the height of the vaulting of the aisles to the
summit of the nave, open into the church. The five apsidal chapels, and
the large S. chapel, the roof of which is supported by a central pillar,
were added in the 14th century.

A small island in the Seine here is united with Mantes and
with Limay^ on the opposite hank, hy handsome modern bridges.
Another old bridge (12-15th cent.) spans the Seine farther up.

From Mantes to Paris via Argentecil, 36 M., railway in I-I3/4 hr.
{fares 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 85 c"). This line crosses the Seine and follows
the right bank via (1^4 M.) Limay, (7 M.) Juziers^ (IOV2 31.) Meulan, a
prettily situated little town with an interesting church, and (14 M.) Triel,
also possessing an interesting church (13-15th cent.). Fine view of the
Seine, to the right. We skirt the hill of the Hautil (555 ft.), and cross the
Oise just before reaching (2OV2 31.) Conflans-Si-Honorine ^ 1/2 M. from the
other station at Conflans (p. 48). Thence to Paris via (23V2 M.) Herblay,
(251/2 M.) Cormeilles-en-Parisis, and (30 M.) Argenteuil (Soleil d'Or), see
^ Baedeker'' s Paris.

Railway to Caen and Chei'bottrg, see R. 21.

To the left, as we quit the station of Mantes , we obtain a fine
view of the towers of the town. 98 M. Epone-Mezieres; 103 M. Les
Mureaiix, 3/^ M. from Meulan (see above); 106 M. Vemouillet, the
station on the left bank for Triel (see above). The railway now
closely follows the windings of the Seine, on its left bank.

108 M. Poissy (Buffet; Hotel de Rouen^ at the station, near the
bridged, a town with 6980 inhab., was the birthplace of St. Louis
(1215-70), who frequently styled himself 'Louis de Poissy". Here
in 1561 a conference was assembled by order of the States General,
with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman Catholic
and Protestant parties. Their deliberations, however, led to no re-
sult, owing to the strong condemnation of the Huguenots by the Sor-
bonne. — The principal Church is a fine building of the Transition
style of the 12th cent., altered in the 15-16th cent., and recently
restored in the interior. Above the centre rises a well-preserved
bell-tower , terminating in a lofty spire, and at the W. end is a
square tower, surmounted by an octagonal story capped by a small
stone spire. We enter by the double portnl on tlie S. side, an ele-
gant work of the 16th cent., but unfortunately much mutilated. The
interior, which has no transepts, possesses considerable antiquarian
interest. The nave and part of the choir show both Norman and
Gothic arches, and groined vaults, the compartments of which are
separated by arched joists, as in barrel-vaulting. The triforium is
formed by a row of twin-arches. The aisles exhibit vaulting in

to Paris. ARQUES. 4. Route. 45

whicli the pointed arcli is used, and the apsidal chapels have stilted
vaulting. The apse, recently restored, is lighted by five rose-wiudows.
— In front of the church is a bronze statue, by Fremiet, of Melsso-
nier^ the painter (1815-91), nearly opposite his former house. —
Ligne de Grande Ceinture to Paris, see Baedeker a Paris.

Ill M. Acheres, in the forest of St. Germain, is the junction of
the direct line to Dieppe (via Gisors, p. 48). At (114 M.) Maisons-
Laffitte is a chateau built in the 17th cent, by Mansart. In the
vicinity are a Race Course and a Golf Course.

The Seine is crossed before and after (116 M.) IJouiUes. — To
the left is the asylum of Petit-Nanterre, to the right St. Germain and
its terrace. On the left we see the hills of Cormeilles, Sannois, and
Montmorency, then Argenteuil, and the fort of Mt. Vale'rien. Various
railways now diverge to the left and right (see Baedeker s Paris^.
The Seine is crossed for the last time at Asnieres, where the lines
to Argenteuil and Versailles diverge. The train passes Ciichy, inter-
sects the fortifications of Paris, threads a tunnel, and reaches —

1251/2 M. Paris (Gare St. Lazare).

b. From Dieppe to Paris vik Gisors and Pontoise.

108 M. Railway in 33/4-53/4 lirs. (fares IS fr. 00, 12 fr. SO, 8 fr. 30 c).

Dieppe, see p. 38. — 21/0 M. Rouxmesnit, junction for Le Tre-
port (p. 41). — 31/2 M. Arques (Jiotel du Chateau; Henri IV),
a small town at the confluence of the Bethune and the Arques,
is celebrated for the decisive victory won here in 1589 by Henri IV
with 4000 men over the forces of the League, amounting to 30,000
men , under the Due de Mayenne. The imposing ruin of the
Chateau is a favourite resort of visitors from Dieppe. Founded
in the 11th cent, on the border of Normandy by a Seigneur
d' Arques , this castle changed hands frequently during the wars
which raged in this district; the English held it from 1419 until
1449, when it tinaUy passed to France. The castle, which did not
become a ruin till the 18th cent., is now public property and always
open to visitors. Although occupying a secure position on the
summit of a hill, this stronghold was farther protected by a moat
and two walls , the first of which is flanked by four massive towers
of brick and stone, built by Francis I. The donjon is perhaps the
most ancient part. — The Church of Arques , a handsome Gothic
building of the 16th cent., contains a fine Renaissance rood-loft, old
stained glass, etc. • — The Forest of Arques, to the N.E., is another
favourite excursion from Dieppe.

151/2 M- Bures, which has declined from its former importance,
has a tine Gothic church of the 12-13th cent., with a Holy Sepulchre
of the 16th cent, and other noteworthy sculptures. 18 M. Mesnihes
has a fine Renaissance chateau (on the left). — 21 M. Neufcliatel-
en-Bray (Grand Cerf), a town with 4130 inhab. , is noted for its
cheese. The handsome church dates from the 12-16th centuries.

46 Route 4. FORGE S-LES-EAUX. From Dieppe

The town contains a small Musee. — Beyond (26^2 M.) Nesle-
Si-Saire the railway quits the valley of the Be'thune. — 30 M.
Serqueux (Buffet)^ also a station on the line from Amiens to Rouen
(p. 31), in connection with the railway to Le Treport (p. 37).

32 M. ForgeS-les-Eaux. — Hotels. Grand Hotel dd Pabc, at the
Etablissement; Continental, close by, R. & A. 3-8, L. V2, B. l-l^A, dej. 4,
D. 5 incl. wine, pens, from 10 fr. ; Mouton, Lion d'Or, botli in the town.
— Etablissement, Adm. in the forenoon 50 c, afternoon 1 fr., whole day
11/2 fr. ; subscription for a month 25 fr. •, bath 2'/2-5 fr. (including linen). —
Omnibus from the Hotel du Jlouton to Serqueux (see above) in connection
with the trains.

Forges owes its reputation to its cold Chalybeate Springs , first
brought into notice hy Anne of Austria, mother of Louis XIV.,
hut now little frequented. The Etablissement, including a casino
and a hotel, is situated in a small park, about I1/4 M. from the
station. The attractions it boasts are hardly worth the charge made
for admission. The large Place de Breviere, in the town, is embel-
lished with a bust of Brcuierc, the engraver (1787-1869). Adjacent
is a modern Gothic Church, in the style of the 13th century.

46 M. Gournay (Hotel da Nord), a town with 4050 inhab., is
the centre of the Pays de Bray, a fertile grazing country, noted for
its butter. Between the station and the town rises a recently-restored
Church, in the Transition style, containing some good wood-carving.
The street in front of the church leads to the Place Nationale, in
which is a fountain dating from the 18th century. Passing the Hotel
de Ville a little farther on, we turn to the left, and return to the
station by way of the pleasant boulevards. — Railway to Beauvais
(St. GermerJ, see p. 35.

The line now traverses the Vullee de Bray and beyond (60 M.)
Eragny enters a hilly pastoral district, watered by the Epte.

61 Y2 M. Gisors (Buffet; Hotel de I' Ecu- de- France, in the main
street), a town with 4680 inhab., situated on the Epte and two of
its tributaries, was the former capital of the Norman Vexin.

The Vexin (Pagus Vaucassinus) was the mediaeval name of the region
extending along the right bank of the Seine from the Oise to beyond
Jumieges; the N. portion, below Vernon, was the Norman Vexin, a
district often disputed by the English and French, the S. part was the
French Vexin.

The town is divided into two parts by a broad thoroughfare,
called the Hue de Cappeville as far as the P^pte and thence the Rue
du Bourg. The Rue de Paris leads from the foot of the Rue du
Bourg to (7-2 M.) the station oi Gisors -Ville, the terminus of the
line to Beauvais (p. 36). — No. 20 in the Rue du Fosse-des-Tan-
neurs, which runs from the Rue de Cappeville to the Rue de Paris,
is a Timber House in the Renaissance style . with a richly carved
facade. The Hotel de Ville, farther on, was formerly a convent; the
facade on the other side is the more interesting. It contains a small
Mus^e and a library. Behind, at some little distance, is a fine
modern brick Hospital.

to Paris. GISORS. d. Route. 47

The large Church, dating from the 13-16th cent., on the left
side of the Rue du Bourg, is elaborately adorned with sculpture
and presents several interesting architectural features. The W.
portal and towers, for example, form an extraordinary combination
of the Gothic, Classical, and Renaissance styles; while the N. portal,
on the other hand, is a remarkable specimen of florid Gothic. The
finely carved oaken doors (^16 -17th cent.) of both these portals
should be noticed.

The Intekior, which has double aisles, illustrates the same technical
erudition and bad taste. The most interesting objects are the carved and
twisted pillars, on the S. side; the antique stained glass; the stone organ-
loft; a Tree of Jesse in the 1st chapel on the S. side; a sculptured 'cadaver'
erroneously attributed to Jean Goujon (in the 3rd chapel); the vaulting
and bosses in the aisles and side-chapels ; the balustraded gallery in the
S. transept; the arcading at the end of the S. aisle; 12 ancient painted
panels behind the high-altar; the reliefs in the last chapel of the N. aisle;
and the curious capitals in that aisle.

The Rue du Bourg terminates in a small square , embellished
with a statue , by Desboeufs , of General de Blamont (1770-1846),
a native of the town. Beyond is an attractive promenade, skirting
the outer wall of the castle.

The Castle, built in the 12th cent, by Henry II. of England, oc-
cupies the top of the hill on which the town is built. Little of this
once strong fortress now remains except its outer ramparts, which
have also been converted into shady promenades, and the donjon,
rising on an artificial mound. The outer wall is protected by a moat
and 12 round towers. The large 'Tour du Prisonnier', near the donjon,
contains a dungeon, the walls of which have been curiously carved
with a nail by some whilom captive. On this side is also a small
court-yard, between a large round tower and a square tower.

From Gisors to Pont-de-l'Arche (Rouen), 33^/2 M., railway in ca. 2 hrs.
(fares 6 fr 5, 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 65 c.) This line traverses a monotonous
district, with numerous textile factories. — IV4 M. Gisors-VUle (p. 46).
10 M. Etripagny (Hot Pouchet), a small town on the Bonde, with a loth cent,
chateau. — 16 M. Saussay -Ves- Ecouis. Ecouis, 3^/2 M. to the W., has a
remarkable church founded in 1310. Diligence from the station to Les
Andelys (IV2 fr.), see p. 42. — From the station of (20 M.) Minesqueville-
Lyons a diligence plies to (41/2 M.) Lyons-la- Foret (Licorne), pleasantly
situated in the centre of the F6ret de Lyons {S6b sq. M.). — The line now
descends the valley of the Andelle. — 25 M. Radepont, a village with a
ruined castle and a chateau of the 18th century. — 33V2 M. Pont-de-V Arche,
see p. 42.

From Gisors to Beauvais, see p. 35; to Vernon, see p. 43.

631/2 M. Trye - Chateau , a village with a ruined castle and a
Gothic church containing some good sculpture.

661/2 M. Chaumont-en-Vexin (Hot. St. Nicolas) is situated on
the slopes of a hill, on which the French kings built a castle (now
almost wholly destroyed) to aid them iu their struggles with the
English for the possession of Normandy. The village has a pretty
church of the 15-16th centuries.

As the train ascends to (70 M.) Liancourt-St-Pierre we have an
extensive view to the left. 74 M. Chars, junction for Magny-en-

48 Route 5. ROUEN. Hotels.

Vexin (Grand Cerf), an industrial village, 8 M. to the W., with an
interesting Renaissance church.

861/2 M. Pontoise {Hotel de la Gave, de Pontoise, both at the
station), a town with 8000 iuhah., picturesquely situated on a
height on the riglit hank of the Oise. The town dates from the days
of the Romans, and from an early period played a somewhat impor-
tant part in French history, owing to its position as capital of the
French Vexin (p. 46) and its proximity to Paris. It was frequently
involved in the wars of the kings of France with the kings of Eng-
land and the dukes of Normandy, and also in the civil struggles of
later date. The only remains of its fortifications are the walls of the
ancient chateau, which protected the town on the side next the river.
For farther details, see Baedekers Paris. — Railway to Creil via
Beaumont, see p. 32.

We cross the Oise. — 87 M. Eragny-Neuville. Fine view to the
left. Beyond (90 M.) Con/lans-Fln-d'Obe we cross the Seine, near its
confluence with the Oise. To the right diverges the railway to Rouen.

From (921/2 M.) Acheres to (106 M.) Paris, see p. 45.

5. Eouen.

stations. Gare de VOnest Rive Droite or de la Rue FeWe (PI. C, 1), tbe
chief station (Bufi'et), for all trains to Le Havre and Dieppe; Gare de I'Ouest
Rive Gauche or de St. Sever (PI. D, E, 5); Gare du Nord (PI. G, 2), for
Amiens (p. 31); Gare d' Orlians (PI. C, D, 5), Place Carnot, for Elbeuf,
Dreux, Chartres, and Orle'ans (p. 59).

Hotels. Grand Hotel d'Akgleterre (PI. a; C, D, 3, 4), Cours Boiel-
dieu 7, R. 3-10, L. 3/4. 1, A. 3/4-I, i). 5 fr. ; -00 NoRu (PI. c; C, 3), Hue de
la Grosse-Horloge 91: de Pakis (PI. d; D, 4), Quai de Paris 51; *de France
(PI. e; D, 2), Rue des Carmes 99, R., L., &: A. from 4, dcj. 27-', D. 3 fr. ;
all these of the lirst class; if meals are not ordered in the house, the
charge for rooms is sometimes raised (arrangement should be made before-
hand). — *H6tel de la Poste (PI. f ; C, 2), Rue .leanne d'Arc 72, R., L.,
& A. from 3, D. 31/2 fr. — Hotel d'Albion (PI. b ; C, 4), Quai de la Bourse
16, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. incl. wine-, do Dauphix.et d'Espagne (PI. i; D, 3), Place
de la Republique, with restaurant, dej. 21/2, D. 8 fr. ^ du Square, Rue
.Jeanne d'Arc 91, pens. 6V2 fr., well spoken of; de la Cote-de-Baleixk
(PI. g; I), 3), Rue du Bae 18-20; Lisieux (PI. h; 1), 3), Rue de la Savon-
nerie 4; du Chemin-de-Fek de Dieppe (PI. k; C, 1), Rue Verte, R. 2^/2-5,
B. 11/4, doj. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; Victoria (PI. j ; C, 1), same street, near the station
on the right bank, unpretending.

Restaurants. ■'Restaurant Franqais, Rue Jacques-le-Lieur 10, behind
the Hotel d'Angleterre, a la carte, expensive, also dej. 3, I). 4fr. ; Pomet,
(^uai dc Paris; Hoti'l du Dauphin, see above; A la Porte de Paris, Quai de
Paris, dcj. 2, D. 2V2 fr. ; de Paris, Rue de la Grosse-Horloge 95, popular,
dcj. IV2, D. 13/.,-2fr., also a la carte.

Cafes. J)e la Bourse, Boieldieu, Victor, all in the Cours Boieldieu;
Iloudard, Quai de Paris 58; du Conwierce, Quai de Paris and Place de la
Republique, etc. — Brasserie -Restaurant de VEpoque, Rue Guillaume-b-
Conquerant 11 (PI. C, 2, 3), with a small garden.

Cabs. Per drive, IV-' fr., per hour, 2 fr. ; at night (12-6 a.m.), 21/2 or
3 fr. — Each trunk 20 c.

Electric Tramways (comp. Plan). 1. From the Pont Corneille (PI. D, 4)
to the Carrefour du Champ-des-Oiseaux . via the quays, the Rue Jetmne
d Arc, and the Gare de la Rue Verte (PI. C, i). — 2. From the Pont Corneille
to Maromme (p. 41), via the quays. —3. F>om the Place de VHdtel-de-ViUe

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History. ROUEN. 5. Route. 49

(PI. D, 2) to Sotteville (p. 42) or to Petit-Quevilly (p. 59), via the Pont Cor-
neille. — 4. From the Place Beauvoisine (PI. D, 1) to the Jardin des Plantes
(p. 53), via the Hotel de Ville and the Pont C rneille. — 5. From the
Place de la Cath&drale (PI. D, 3) to the Place des Chartreux^ via the Pont
Buieldieu and Rue St. Sever. — 6. From the Qiiai du Mont-Riboudet (1'1.B,3)
to Darnital (p. 31), via the Boul. Cauchoise, Hotel de Ville, and Place
St. Hilaire (PI. G, 1). — 7. From the Avenue Pasteur (PI. A, 3) to the Rue
de Lyons-la- Forit (Gare du Nord-, PI. O, 2, 3), vin the Hotel de Ville. —
8. Circtilar Line via the quays and houlevards. — Fares: within the town,
15 c. 1st class, 10 c. 2nd cl.^ outside the town, iU and 5 or 15 and 10 c.
The halting-places are marked by white posts. — Cable-Tramway to Bonse-
cours, see p. 58.

Steamboats. To La Bouille (p. 59) in IV2 br., ■ from the Quai de la
Bourse, 5 times daily (7 times on Sun. and holidays) in summer; fares 80 c,
60 c, returning by rail from La Londe or La B'uille-Moulineaux (p. 59), or
vice versa, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. (omnibus to station extra). Stations,
see p. 59. — A service also plies upstream to Oissel (40 c.), via Eauplet^
Amfreville-Mi-Voie^ La Polerie-Belbeuf^ St. Adrien, and Port-St-Ouen. — To
Eauplet in connection with the cable-railway at Bonsecours, see p. 58. —
To Le Havre, see p. 59. — To London direct, see p. >iv.

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue Jeanne d Arc 45 (PI. C, 2),

Theatres. TMdtre des Arts (PI. D, 3, 4), Quai de la Bourse (adm.
60 c. 51/2 fr.); TMdtre Francois (PI. C, 3), Vieux March^ (3/4-6 fr.) ; Folies
Bergdre (PI. E 4) He Lacroix (V2-2V2 fr.).

English Library & Reading Room, Rue Beauvoisine 26.

British Consul, Lieut. H. E. 0 Weill, R. iV., Rue Beauvoisine 49. —
American Consul, Chas. P. Williams, Esq., Rue Thiers 38; Vice-Consul,
E. M. J. Dellepiane.

English Church. All Saints, He de la Croix, services on Sun. at 11
and 3. Chaplain, Rev. Thomas Campbell. — Wesleyan Church, at the corner
of the Rue Grand Pont and the Rue Madeleine; services on Sun. at 11
and 6.30.

Rouen, formerly the capital of Normandy , now that of the De-
partment of the Seine-Inferieure, and the seat of an archbishop,
with 113,220 inhab., is a very important cotton -manufacturing
place, sometimes not very aptly called the Manchester of France.
It is the richest of French cities in mediaeval architecture, though
the construction within the last forty years of handsome streets like
those of Paris has swept away most of the quaint old houses, that
abounded in the former crooked and picturesque but not very healthy
streets. The old walls of the town, which bade defiance to Henry V.
of England in 1415 and to Henri IV of France in 1592, have been
converted into boulevards planted with trees.

Rouen is the Rotomagus of the Romans. The Normans, under Hasting
(some say Ogier the Dane), penetrated thus far in 841, in their first in-
vasion of France; and returning in 876 under Rollo, made themselves masters
of the district and established a duchy here in 912. This was the nucleus
of the duchy of Normandy, which sent forth William the Conqueror in
1066. The last Duke of Normandy was King John of England, who mur-
dered his nephew, Arthur of Brittany, in the castle of Kouen, and was
dispossessed by Philip Augustus in 1204. Rouen was retaken by the Eng-
lish in 1419, and retained until 1449. In 1431 it was the scene of the con-
demnation and burning of Joan of Arc (see p. 50). The town suflered
severely in the later religious wars ; Catholics and Calvinists alternately
held the upper hand and rivalled each other in cruelty. In 1592 the
townsmen successfully resisted Henri IV; but they opened their gates to
him four years later, after he had abjured Protestantism. The Revocation
of the Edict of Nantes inflicted a severe, though temporary, blow on the
prosperity of Rouen. — Among the famous natives of this town are Pierre

Baedekeks Northern France. 3rd Edit. 4

50 Route 5. ROUEN. Palais de Justice.

Corneille (1606-84), the dramatist, his brother Thomas (1625-1709), Jomenei
(1647-1717), G'^Hcau?^ (1791-1824), the painter, and Boleldieu (1775-1834),
the composer. Lord Chancellor Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, died in exile at
Rouen in 1674.

Quitting the Gare de la Rive Droite (PI. C, 1) , we turn to the
left by the Rue Verte, whence we see to the left the fine tower
(partly modern) of St. Romain (PI. C, 1), a church of the 17-18th
cent. , with a richly decorated interior. Farther on we cross the
boulevards and enter the wide and handsome Rue Jeanne d'Arc^
which runs in a straight line to the Seine. At the point of inter-
section is a bronze statue, by Lefeuvre, of Armand Carrel (1800-
1836), a distinguished publicist. To the left is the Tour de Jeanne
d'Arc (PI. C, 1), the donjon of a castle buUt by Philip Augustus
after the expulsion of the English in 1204, which was the scene
of the trial of Joan of Arc ; the tower in which she was imprisoned
was pulled down in 1809. — On the E. side of the Jardin Solferino
(PI. C, 2), farther down the Rue Jeanne d'Arc, is the Muse'e des
Beaux-Arts (p. 54).

The *Palais de Justice (PI. C, D, 2, 3), built by the architects
Roger Ango and Roland Leroux in the florid late-Gothic style, re-
sembles the handsome town-halls of Belgium, although consisting
of two stories only. The central part of the edifice and the project-
ing wings form an entrance-court, enclosed by a railing. The left
wing, the Salle des Procureurs or des Pas-Perdus, erected in 1493,
is a spacious hall with a high-pitched waggon-roof of timber,
formerly used as an exchange. The central part was erected six
years later, for the Cour de I'Echiguier, the supreme tribunal (Parle-
ment) of Normandy, and its facade is very richly ornamented. The
assizes are now held here. The lavish decorations of the interior
are almost entirely modern. The Salle des Assises has a fine cassetted
ceiling in carved wood. The courts are open to the public when
in session, and at other times visitors apply to the concierge, who
lives in the right wing, a modern addition (fee). — Behind the
Palais de Justice, Rue St. L6 40, is the Hotel des Societes Savantes,
containing a good Commercial Museum, open daily, except Sun.
and holidays, 9-12 and 2-4 or 6.

Returning to the Rue Jeanne d'Arc, we descend it to the first
street on the left, which brings us to the Tour de la Grosse Horloge
or Bejfroi (Belfry ; PI. C, 3). erected in 1389 and restored in 1692.
The clock, which has two large sculptured dials, is placed on a kind
of Porch of the 16th century. In the basement of the tower is a
fountain, with figures of Alpheus and Arethiisa, and beneath the
porch are bas-reliefs representing the Good Shepherd. The Rue
Thouret, to the left, beyond the tower, leading past the former
Hotel de Ville (16th cent.) to the Palais de Justice (see above), is
named after J. C. Thouret, tfeputy from Rouen to the Tiers-Etat in
1789; his bust is on the left — Opposite the end of the Rue de la
Grosse Horloge rises the —

Cathedral. ROUEN. 5. Route. 51

*Cathedral, or Notre-Dame (PI. D , 3) , one of the grandest
Gothic edifices in Normandy, although remarkably unsymmetrical
in plan. The principal parts date from 1270-80. The central portal
of tlie * W. Facade was erected by Cardinal d'Amboise, the favourite
minister of Louis XII., at the beginning of the 16th cent., and is
profusely decorated in the florid style. The sculptures over the
chief entrance, of no great merit, represent the Genealogy of Christ,
with the Beheading of John the Baptist on the left, and the Virgin
and saints on the right. The two unfinished towers of the fagade are
of unequal height. The *Tour de Beurre, the loftier and more
beautiful , 252 ft. in height, derives its name from having been
erected with the money paid for indulgences to eat butter during
Lent. The other, the Tour St. Romain, is 245ft. high; with the ex-
ception of the highest story, it dates from the 12th cent., and is thus
the oldest part of the whole building. The beautiful Central Tower,
over the transept, is surmounted by an incongruous iron spire (since
a fire in 1822), which reaches the height of 465 ft.

The two side-portals, dating from the 15th cent., are of great
interest, especially that on the N., called the *Portail des Libraires
from the book-stalls that once occupied the court. The sculptures
on the tympanum (unfinished) represent the Besurrection and the
Last Judgment, those on the archivolt, saints and angels, the
others, grotesque subjects. The S. portal is known as the Portaii de
la Calende, from a brotherhood that used to assemble here on the
'Calends' or first day of each month. The sculptures above the en-
trance represent scenes from the Passion ; the others correspond to
those of the N. portal.

The Intekior of the church (447 ft. in length; transept 177 ft. in length;
nave and aisles 105 ft. in width; 92 ft. in height) is in the early-Pointed
5t)le, and possesses three fine rose-windows in the nave and transepts.
The choir has double aisles, and the transepts are divided into middle
and side aisles by columns and arches of the same design as those in the
nave. The axis of the church slop* s a little towards the E. end. 'Above
the pillars and arches of the nave runs another line of both in place of
a triforium; above this again are two galleries one above the other; and
higher yet, and crowning all, is seen the clerestory with its windows, so
that there are five horizontal divisions in the walls of the nave, which
has no parallel in England.' (Winkler^s '■French Cathedrals''). Part of the
stained glass dates from the 13th century. The first chapel on the right,
in the Tour de Beurre, contains a large altar-piece, representing the Cru-
cifixion and the Martyrdom of St. Stephen, and also several monuments of
the 13th and 14th centuries. The last chapel on the S, side of the nave
contains the tomb of Rollo (d. 927), first Duke of Normandy, and the cor-
responding chapel on the N, side that of his son William Longue-Ep^e
(d. 943). From the N. transept a beautiful Gothic staircase, with open
tracery, ascends to the chapter-library (p. 52). The modern pulpit in the
nave and the organ-case (i7-lSth cent.) should be noticed.

In front of the Choir is a poor rood-loft of the 18th century. The iron
screens of the chapels are closed except during service (apply to the
sacristan; fee). In the S. ambulatory is an ancient mutilated figure in lime-
stone, 7 ft in height, of Richard Coeur-de-Lion (d 1199), discovered in 1838;
his heart is interred below. Its original resting-place in the choir is in-
dicated by a small marble tablet. In the N. ambulatory is a correspond-
ing (modern) figure of Henri/ II. of England (d. 1189), who also is buried

4*

52 Route 5. ROUEN. St. Maclous.

in the choir. The high-altar is a sumptuous modern work in marble and
gilt bronze.

The beautiful *Lady Chapel contains several magnificent monuments.
The Gothic chapel-like tomb to the left on entering is that of Duke Pierre II.
de Briz6 (d. 1465), seneschal of Normandy. Adjoining is the monument
of his grandson, Louis de Brizi (d. 1530), also seneschal of Normandy, erected
by his widow, the well-known Diana of Poitiers (d. 1566), mistress of'Henri II,
and attributed to Jean Cousin and Jean Oovjon. — Farther on is the Monu-
ment of Cardinal de Croy (d. 1844), erected in 1857. — The most imposing
of all is the magnificent ""'il/owwmen< of Cardinal George d''Amboise (d. 1510),
the powerful minister of Louis XII., and his nephew, who was also a
cardinal, by Roland Leroux, erected in 1518-25, but modified after 1541
when the second kneeling statue was added. In the centre are kneeling
statues of the cardinals, and behind them a bas-relief of St. George and
the dragon and statues of Christ, the Virgin, and ?ix saints. The six sta-
tuettes below represent the virtues, those above the Apostles. The whole
is remarkable for its exquisite finish and is ranked among the chefs-
d'oeuvre of the Renaissance in France. — The altar-piece, an Adoration of
the Shepherds, is by Phil, de Champaigne,

The C/iapter Library (comp. p. 51) contains the Treasury of the cath-
edral, open to visitors in summer (small fee). The objects of interest here
include the leaden coffin of Richard Coeur-de-Lion. Flemish and Aubusson
tapestry, reliquaries including the 'fierte de St. Romain' (see p. 53), vases,
books and MSS., monstrances of the 14th cent., a portrait of Card. York,
the last of the Stuarts, etc.

Visitors may ascend to the top of the spire, on applying to the con-
cierge at the Portail des Libraires (2 fr. for 1-4 pers. ; 50 c. each additional
pers.); 812 steps. View like that from the Eglise de Bonsecours (p. 58),
but more extensive.

Opposite the main entrance of the cathedral is a handsome build-
ing of the 16th cent., by Roland Leroux, known as the Bureau des
Finances. The old Cour des Comptes (16th cent.l, to the left of the
main portal, has been partly unmasked by building-operations in 1897.

The extensive pile immediately behind the cathedral is the Arch-
bishop's Palace (partly 15th cent.). It has a doorway by Mansard and
contains four paintings by Hubert Robert. — Proceeding towards the
W. from this point and crossing the Rue de la Republique, we reach
the church of —

*St. Maclou (PI. E, 3), a very rich example of the florid Gothic
style of the 15th century. The modern spire above the crossing, com-
pleted in 1869, is 255 ft. high. The W. *Portal, a very elaborate
piece of work, has a pentagonal porch. The exquisitely carved
reliefs on the wooden *Doors are ascribed to Jean Goujon; and in
the Last Judgment of the tympanum bas-relief Mr. Ruskin finds a
'fearful grotesqueness' worthy of the united powers of Orcagna and
Hogarth. The chief points of interest in the interior are the Gothic
staircase leading to the organ (16th cent.), the stained glass (15-16th
cent.), and the organ-case and other carvings.

At No. 188, Rue Martainville, a short distance from the church, are
the Cloisters of St. Maclou, an ancient cemetery enclosed with arcades,
now converted into school -buildings. On the pillars still linger some
sculptured fragments of a Dance of Death.

We now return to the Rue de la Re'publique and descend it to
the left. At the corner of the Rue Alsace-Lorraine, to the left,
stands the Maison Sauton-Goujon, a large modern edifice in the

Quays. ROUEN. 5. Route. 53

Renaissance style, with elaborate carving. The Rue desHalles, lower
down, leads to the right to the Anriennes Halles (PL D, 3), where
there is a curious monument of the Renaissance in the shape of the
Cliapelle St. Romain (1542-43), a covered terrace, under which runs
a vaulted passage. The ancient ceremony of the 'leve'e de la flerte',
or raising of the reliquary of St. Romain by a condemned prisoner,
who thus obtained pardon, used to be performed here every year
on Ascension Day. Passing under the archway of the chapel, we
soon reach the quays.

The Quays extend for I72 M. along the banks of the Seine, here
upwards of 300 yds. in breadth. The river is even at this distance
from the sea (80 M.) affected by the tide, and a harbour of con-
siderable depth and capacity has been formed at Rouen by means of
dredging, extending, and embanking the channel of the river. The
Pont CorneiUe, or 'Stone Bridge' (PI. D, 4), constructed in 1829,
passes over the lower end of the He Lacroix, where there is a Statue
of CorneilLe (p. 54), by David d' Angers. Farther down is the Pont
Bo'ieidieu (PI. D, 4) , a handsome iron bridge, erected in 1885-88.
Still farther down a ^Pnnt Transbordsur\ or moving bridge slung
from two lofty towers, is under construction. Above the Pont Cor-
neille is the Porte Guillaume-le-Lion (PL E, 3), a relic of the old
walls (1749), with sculptures by CI. Le Prince. The church of
Bonsecours and the monument of Jeanne d'Arc on the hill beyond
are well seen from the quays.

On the opposite bank lies the suburb of St. Sever, in which are
the Gare de la Rive Gauche (p. 48; PL D, E, 5), and the Gare
d' Orleans (p. 48; PL C, D, 5).

This suburb offers few attractions to the tourist. The Rue La Fayette
and Rue St. Sever leading directly frim the above-mentioned bridges, con-
verge at the modern church of St. Sever. The Jardin des Plantes (tram-
way), about '/'- M. thence, is uninteresting. The street to the right
in front of St. Sever, and then the Rue St. Julien, to the left, bring us
to the modern Romanesque church oi St. Climent., in front of which is the
Monument of the A^bd de la Salle (1651-1719), founder of the society of
FrJres de la Doctrine Chretienne or 'Ignorantins'. The society is sometimes
spoken of as the Freres de St. Yon, from the house in Rouen which was
their headquarters from 1705 till 1770 and where the abbe died.

Parallel to the Quai de la Bourse, which extends along the N.
bank to the W. of thePontBoi'eldieu, stretches the Cours Bo'ieidieu., a
favourite promenade, where a band plays occasionally in summer.
At one end is the Theatre des Arts (PL D, 3, 4), and at the other
a bronze Statue of Bo'ieidieu (p. 50). Adjacent are the Bourse or
Exchange (PL C, 4), an 18th cent, building, and the new Hotel des
Telegraphes et Telephones. At the W. end of the Quai de la Bourse
is the Douane (PL C, 4).

We leave the quay and re-enter the town by the Rue Jeanne
d'Arc (comp. p. 50). On the left rises the pretty little Gothic church
of St. Vincent (PL C, 3), built in the 16th cent., with a tower added
in the 17th, It has double aisles, but no transept. The W. entrance,

54 Boute 5. ROUEN. Hot. du Bourgtheroulde.

witli its graceful porch, and the S. portal, with its line wooden
doors, should he noticed.

The "Stained Glass (IBth cent.) in the aisles and ambulatory of this
church is the finest in Rouen. The windows at the ends of the N. aisle,
hy Engrand and Jean le Prince^ ofBeauvais, are considered the best; they
represent the Works of Mercy and the Glorification of the Virgin. In the
chapels on each side of the choir are some good wood-carvings (Kith cent.),
and in the sacristry are eight tapestries of the same date (shown on request).

Farther to the N., on the same side of the street, is the handsome
Tour St. Andre (PI. C, 3), a relic of an old church of the 15-16th
centuries. It stands in a small square, on one side of which the front
of a timher-dwelling of 1520 has heen re-erected. View from the
tower, ascended by an easy staircase (always open; fee).

The Rue des Ours, running to the W. from this point, leads to
the small Place de la Pucelle (PI. G, 3), long supposed to he the
scene of the burning of Joan of Arc (comp. below). The place is now
occupied by a paltry figure of Joan over a fountain.

The *H6tel du Bourgtheroulde (PI. C, 3), on the W. side
of the Place (No. 15), erected at the close of the 15th cent, in the
style of the Palais de Justice, is adorned with numerous reliefs, some
of which represent the interview on the 'Field of the Cloth of Gold'
(1520 ; p. 22). The graceful hexagonal tower is decoratedwith sculp-
tures, and the windows are also very beautiful. The building is
now occupied by a bank, but the court open to the public on week-
days (on Sun. apply to the concierge).

A little higher up than the Place de la Pucelle is the Place du
Vieux-Marche (PI. C, 3), where Joan of Arc was burned in 1431,
on the spot marked by a cross on our plan.

The house in which Corneille was born is No. 4, Rue Corneille, to the
S.W. of the Place (PI. B, 3); his dwelling-house, now iniblic property, is
situated at Petit-Couronne (p. 59), ^^/-z M. tj the S.W.

From the N.AV. corner of the Vieux Marche' the Rue Oauchoise
leads to the Place Cauchoise (Pi. B, 2), with a monunieut to Pouyer-
Quertier, minister of finance in 1871, by Guilloux (1894). Thence
the Rue Thiers leads back to the Jardin Solferino, with the Muse'e.

The Musee-Bibliotheque (PI. C, 2), a handsome modern edi-
fice by Sauvageot, with little ornamentation, was opened in 1888.
In front of the entrance facing the garden are seated figures of
Michael Anguier and Nic. Poussin, and on the basement, to the
right, is a medallion of G. Flaubert (1821-80), the author, a native
of Rouen. The *Musee des Beaux-Arts is open daily from 10 (Mon.
from 12) to 4 or 5; gratis on Thurs., Sun., and holidays, other days
1 fr. The great staircase in the vestibule ascends to the ceramic
collections. To the right and left on the groundfloor are the sculp-
ture rooms, and beyond them the collections of ancient (right)
and modern (left) paintings. Sticks and umbrellas must be given
up (no fee). Catalogue 1 fr.

Sculptures. Room to the Left. 972. £". Lerour, Rachel; 9-^0. Pellet,
Eloah; 970. Leharivel-Durocher, Young girl and Cupid; 974. Mansion, Nymph

Musee. ROUEN. 5. Route. 55

of Diana; 989. Lefhvre-Deumier, Morning-star; 988. Simari, Orestes; 991.
Vasselot^ Chloe ; busts and casts. — The Room to the Right chiefly con-
tains casts, many of which are from the monument of Gen. Bonchamps
bv David d"" Angers, and frnm that of the painter Gericault (p. 50) by Etex.
931. Seated figure of P. Corneille by Caffieri; 981. Bacchanal, bj Pradier.

Paintings. Old Masters. 1. Large Room. To the left: no number,
De Troy, Susanna and the elders; 320. Largillihre, Portrait; 498. Rigaud,
Louis XV.; De Troy, 562. Ascension, 563. Assumption; 476. J. B. Pierre,
Ascension; Patel, 464. Summer, 465. Spring; 241. Halli (Rouen), Nativity;
548, 542. Stella, Bacchanals; ll3. /. B. Corneille, Raising of Lazarus; 500.
Rizzo, Hagar and Ishmael; 676. Italian School, Madonna and Child; 499.
Rizzo, Isaac blessing Jacob; 34. Berghem, Concert; 613. School of Rubens,
Adoration of the Shepherds; 455. Netscher, Concert; 429. P. van Mol, Generos-
ity of Scipio; ICO. A. van Everdingen, Landscape; 551. Tiepolo, A game of
cards ; 422. P. Mignard, Mme. de Maintenon. In the centre, bronze figure
of Cupid, by Marqueste. — The two Small Rooms next the garden contain
portraits of Albert of Austria and his wife by Van Thulden (552, 553), a
landscape by Huysmans (264), and other Flemish works.

II. Large Room. To the left: 570. Velazquez, 615. Flemish School,
Portraits; Ribera, 494. The Good Samaritan, 493. Zachariah; 621. Flemish
School, Portrait; 236. Guercino , Visitation; no number, Sjmnish School
(17th cent.), St. Peter weeping; 537. Solimena, Columbus receiving the
Papal Bull before his second voya'je to America (1493); 88. Valerio Castelli,
Madonna; 81. Ann. Garracci, St. Francis of Assisi; *472-474. Perugino,
Adoration of the Magi, Baptism of Christ, Resurrection (predelle of the
Ascension at Lyons); '-572. Veronese, St. Barnabas healing the sick; *5. Cara-
vaggio. Philosopher; 172. Dolci, 'Caritas Rumana'"; 573. Veronese, Vision. —
510. Steen, Wafer-seller; 430. Van Mol, Head of an old man; *210. Gerard
David., Madonna and saints ; 303. de Keyser, The music lesson ; 274. Jor-
daeiis, Head of an old man; 362. Lemonnier, Plague at Milan ; 491. Restout,
Presentation in the Temple; 365. Lemonnier, same subject; *556. Tilborg,
Village-feast; *G48. School of Fontainebleau, Diana bathing; 564. Fr. de
Troy, Duchcsse de la Force; 421. Mignard, Ecce Homo; 367. Le Nain,
Nativity; 149. L. David, Mme. Lelirun; 481. Poussin, Venus and vEneas ; 284.
Jouvenei, Death of St. Francis; 536. Snyders, Boar-hunt; 160, 16'2. Deshays,
Martyrdom of St. Andrew; 309. Lahire, Adoration of the Shepherds.

The III. Large Room contains 31 works by Jouvenet, who was a
native of Rouen; also: H. Robert, bOo, 504. Monuments and ruins ; Lahire,
310. Nativity, 312. Descent from the Cross; 165. Desportes, Stag-hunt; 457.
Oudry, Deer pursued by hounds; 631. Poussin, St. Denis. — Small End
Room. Unimportant works of the French School. — I. Room to the Right,
on the side next the street. Drawings by Giricault and other masters. —
II. Room to the Right. Works of the Italian School. 54, 675. Unknown
Artists, Madonnas; 20. Bassano , Adoration of the Shepherds; 686. School
of Pinturicchio , Madonna in glory; 55. School of Botticelli, Vestals; 705.
Unknoicn Artist., Mass ; 608, 607. Zitccarelli, Landscapes ; 85. Agostino Gar-
racci, Christ appearing to Mary Magdalen ; 4. Garavaggio, St. Sebastian and
Irene, etc. — The Gallery on the other side of the large rooms contains
ancient and modern drawings , a few fine crayons (Girl surprized , by
Machard) and four paintings including (19) a Circumcision attributed to
Bassano. — The staircases at the end of this gallery lead to the other
wing of the building.

Modern Pictures. Small Room at the end (to the right in approaching
from the Sculpture Room). Works by Euphimie Muraton. — Large Room.
To the left: 249. Hermann, Dogs; 177. Dubufe, Study; 147. Daubigny,
Landscape; 495. Ribot, Alonso Cano on the scaffold; 148. Daubigny, Banks
of the Oise; 196. Flameng, Taking of the Bastille; 239. Guillemet, Beach
at Villers (Calvados); 97. Chaplin, Game at lotto; 604. Ziem, Constantino-
ple; 489. Renoitf, The Pilot; no number, Phil. Zacharie, The Temptation;
58. L. Boulanger, Mazeppa. — 25. Bellangi, Charge of cavalry at Marengo;
539. Sorieul, Episode on the retreat from Moscow ; no number, Gormon,
The victors of Salamis; 265. Ingres, 'La Belle Zelie'. — 192. G. Ferrier,
Death of St. Agnes; 16. Barillot, Cattle; 419. Merson, St. Isidore of Madrid:

56 Route 5. ROUEN. St. Ouen.

116, 115. Corot, Views of Ville d'Avray; 214-220. GMcault, Studies, Portrait
of Eug. Delacroix; 106. Clairin, Massacre of the Abencerrages ; 152. E. Dela-
croix, Justice of Trajan; 605. Ziem, Landscape; 507. Eochegvosse., Andro-
mache; 5\b. P/iil. Rovsseau, TheCheeses; 649. /'e^owse, The Seine atPoses; 376.
Leroy, Christ at the house of Lazarus ; 548. Tabar, Death of Brunhilda; 169.
Bidterle, At'tlie shrine of St. Georges; 544. Stevens, Dog's work; 124. D. Court
(of Rouen), B dssy d'Anglas presiding at ihe Convention. — Gallery ad-
joining the street: 466. Patrois, Joan of Arc led to the stake; 146. Danian,
Quoit - players ; 155. Dimarest, The last voyage; 224. Glaize, The miserly
housekeeper; no number, /. Leman, Portrait-group in a studio; 125. Court,
Portrait ; several landscapes ; 223. Oiraud, Bowls at Pont Aven (p. 260). —
Small Rooms overlooking the garden. 119. Courant, 41. Berthilemy, Sea-
pieces; 527. Sautai, Dante in exile. — Gallery adjoining the Sculpture
Room. 531. Lebron, Street in New York; i^. Defaux, Banks of the Loire;
11. Avictt, Charlotte Corday ; 24. Bazin, Louis XlV. dissolving the Parlement;
403. Maignan, Clevis II.; 376. Lesrel, In a iiambling-house; 134. Court, Sketch
for the picture of Blirabeau and Dreux Breze, at Versailles.

The Second Flook (open Sun. and Thurs. only), reached by the staircase
beyond the last room, contains a Collection of Engravings and a supplement-
ary Picture Gallery, consisting chiefly of modern works of secondary im-
portance.

The Ceramic Collection, occupying six rooms on the first floor, consists
mainly of an extensive series of Rouen faience of the 17-18th centuries.
The best period of the manufacture is represented in Room I. — The stair-
case from the vestibule (p. 54) is decorated with a group of Hercules
and the Hydra, by P. Puget, and with paintings ('Inter Artes et Naturam'),
by Puvis de Chavannes.

The Municipal Library (adm. daily, 10-5), in the building at the
back of the Muse'e, contains 132,000 printed books, 3500 MSS., 2700
medals and coins, and about 2000 portraits of eminent Normans.

At the angle of the Muse'e adjoining the Rue Thiers is the Mon-
ument of Bouilhet (1824-69), poet and dramatist, a fountain with
bust by E. Guillaume. Opposite is the desecrated Church of St. Lau-
rent (15-1 6th cent.), with an interesting tower.

Behind St. Laurent is the church of St. Godard (PI. I), 2), dating
partly from the 16th century. The nave and aisles of this church are
of equal size and nnvaulted; the former terminates in an apse of
three sides. Most of the fine stained glass is either modern or
restored. The chapels to the right and left of the choir each contain
a good window of the 10th century. The choir itself is decorated
with mural paintings by Le Ile'naff, and contains a gilded canopy.

If the afternoon is advanced, visitors should go direct from this
church to the Museum of Antiquities (closed at 4 or (); p. 57); other-
wise they may follow the Rue Thiers to the Place de CHold-de- Ville.

Here stands the church of **St. Ouen (PI. 1), E. 2), one of the
most beautiful Gothic churches in existence, surpassing the cath-
edral, both in extent and in excellence of style. Most of it was built
in 1318-39, by Alex, Berneval; but the W. Portal, Hanked by two
towers 282 ft. in height, and unfortunately a little too small, was
erected in 1846-52. The *7bu"cr over the transept, 268 ft. in height
and flanked with graceful turrets, is surmounted by an octagonal
open-work lantern, terminating in a gallery (called 'La Couronne
de Normandie') which commands a line prospect. The N. Fagade,
which is adjoined by the Hotel de Ville (p. 57), has no lateral portal j

Fontaine Ste. Marie. ROUEN. 5. Route. 57

but the S. *Portail des Marmousets, so called from the heads with
which it is adorned, deserves minute inspection. The reliefs over
the door represent the Death and Assumption of the Virgin. Above
this portal is a magnificent rose-window, still higher is an arcade
with six statues, and the whole is crowned with a pediment bearing
a statue of St. Ouen [d. 678), Archbishop of Rouen.

Interior. The proportions of the church (453 ft. in length, 84 ft. in
width;, transept 138 ft. in length; 1U6 ft. in height) are remarkably pleas-
ing. There are no lateral chapels oft" the nave. The walls appear to he
almost entirely displaced by the numerous windows, 135 in number, all
lilled with stained glass (14-16th cent.). The unusually lofty triforium is
exceedingly beautiful. In the nave and transepts are three fine rose-
windows, also filled with siained glass. The graceful and light effect
produced by the interior is largely due to the absence of non-structural
ornamentation. None of the few works of art in the church are par-
ticularly noteworthy, except, perhaps, the tombs of two abbes of St. Ouen
in the Lady Chapel. — The verger (fee) shows the choir-chapels, some of
which contain goud 16th cent, tapestries, and points out several spots
which command fine views of the interior. The fine hammered iron rail-
ing round the choir was executed by Nic. Flambart in 1"( 38-47. The gor-
geous modern Gothic high-altar was designed by Sauvageot. The whole
of the interior is reflected in the benitier near the W. door. — The visitor
should not omit to ascend to the triforium and the outer gallery (1 fr.
each pers.).

The Hotel de Ville (PI. D, E, 2), on the N. side of the church,
a building in the Italian style, was formerly part of the monastery of
St. Ouen. It contains handsome staircases, portraits of illustrious
natives of Rouen, and statues of Corneille, Joau of Arc, and Louis XV.
In front of the edifice rises a mediocre Equestrian Statue of Napoleon I.,
by Vital-Dubray. At the back of St. Ouen's and the Hotel de Ville
is a public garden, embellished with statues. The Chamhre aux
Clercs^ a Norman tower of the 11th cent., adjoins the church on this
side, and probably formed part of an earlier church.

A little beyond the garden is the church oi SI. Vivien (PI. E, 2), dating
from the 14-16th cent., with an organ-case of the 17th cent., a marble
altar-piece of the 18th cent., etc.

We now ascend the Rue de la Re'publique to the N. , passing
the Lijcee Corneille (PI. D, 1), the chapel of which dates from the
17th century. The facade of the latter fronts the Uue Bourg-l'Abbe.
At the top of the Rue de la Re'publique is the large *Fontaine
Ste. Marie (PI. D, 1), by Falguiere and Deperthes. The group on
the top consists of a figure of Rouen, seated in an antique ship, and
surrounded by genii and symbolical figures.

To the left is an old convent, containing the Museum of Anti-
quities and the Museum of Natural History (PI. D, 1).

The ^Antiquarian Museum (open daily, lU to 4 or 5, except on Mon.
and Sat.) comprises sculptures and wood - carvings of the middle ages;
beautiful stained-glass windows and other articles from churches and sup-
pressed monasteries; Roman mosaics and other antiquities; weapons; fine
iron-work; coins, medals, etc. Among the most interesting objects are a
wooden ' Ciborium of the 16th cent., an enamelled Goblet by P. Raymond,
a ''Chimney -piece in carved wood, painted and gilded (16th cent.), a large
"Mosaic found at Lillebonne (p. 64) in 1S70, another mosaic of Orpheus
and the animals, etc.

58 Route 5. ROUEN. Environs.

The Museum d'Histoire Natukelle, the entrance to which is a little
lower down, is open daily, 10 to 4 or 5 (on Mon. from 12). The col-
lection of birds on the second floor is noteworthy.

The church of St. Patrice (PI. C, 2), in the Rue St. Patrice,
contains ^Stained Glass dating from the 16-17th cent., little inferior
to that in St. Vincent (p. 54). The allegorical window at the end
of the N. aisle, attributed to J. Cousin, is considered the best.

St. Gervais (PL A, 1), about 3/^ M. farther W., is a Romanesque
church rebuilt in 1872-74, with a curious old crypt of the 4th cent-
ury. William the Conqueror died in the priory to which the church
belonged in 1087 (comp. p. 43),

Environs of Rouen.

From Eouen to Bonsecoues. — Steamboat from the Stone Bridge to
Eauplet (2nd station) at 15 and 45 min. past each hour^ Cable Railway from
Kauplet to the top, returning at 15 and 45 min. past each hour. Fares,
to Eauplet 15, to the top 35, down 30 c, return-fare 60c. — Omnibus
direct, starting at the Stone Bridge, 50 c

There are, several cafes and restaurants near the church: Casino, dej.
21/2, D. 3 fr. ; A Ma Campagne, Route de Paris 75, to the left as we come
from the church, d6}. 2, D. 21/2 fr. \ etc.

Bonsecours, situated 011 a hill on the right bank of the Seine.
2 M. above Rouen, is a favourite resort for the sake of the view, the
church, and the monument to Joan of Arc. The expedition is best
made by means of the steamer and cable-railway (see above), which
lands travellers near the church and the monument. The road, by
which we may return, passes to the right of the church.

The Church or Bonsecours, a pilgrim-resort, built in 1840-42
in the pointed style of the 13th cent., with modern stained glass in
a contemporary style, is richly decorated in the interior with poly-
chrome paintings. The gilded bronze altar, the statues in the sanctu-
ary, the choir-stalls, pavement, pulpit, and organ are noteworthy.

The Monument of Joan of Arc, perhaps more a commercial
speculation (adm. 25 c. ; closed 12-1.30) than a work of patriotism,
consists mainly of three elegant little Renaissance buildings, by
Liscli, connected by a platform. The principal chapel, with a dome
surmounted by a St. Michael, encloses a statue of Joan of Arc, by
Barrias ; the other two have statues of SS. Catharine and Margaret
(by Pepin and Verlet), whose voices are supposed to have first in-
spired Joan.

The *View from the platform embraces the city, the course of
the river for many nules above and below Rouen, and in the distance
the verdant hills of Normandy.

Canteleti, picturesquely situated on the road to Le Havre, 41/2 M. to the
W. of Rouen, has a chateau built by Mansart. About 2 M. farther on is
St. Martin-de-Boscherville, with the magnificent ruined .4ft?)^y 0/ 5<. Oeorges-
de-Boschervillc, dating from the ll-12th centuries. 'Ihe'Church, still in toler-
able prei^ervation, retains .^ome mural pointings of the 12th cent., as well
as some stained glass of the 16th. The Chapter House was added in the
17th century. — Duclair (p. 65) is 5 M. from St. Martin.

A pleasant steamboat-excursion may be taken to La Bouille, a small
but busy town, I2V2 M. below Eouen, see p. 58.

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Environs. ROUEN. f). Route. 09

From Rouen to Le Havre by the Seine, about SO M., steamboat every
second day in summer (daily from July loth to Sept. 15tli), in T'^hrs.;
fare 6 fr., 4fr. ; return-ticket available by railway in one direction and
valid for three days, 13 fr., 9 fr. ; restaurant on board, dej. 4, D. 5 fr.,
incl. wine. This trip is recommended in fine weather, at least as far as
Caudebec (p. 65) ; but only one of the steamboats (the 'Eclair') has a deck-
saloon (1st cl. only). The steamers start from the Quai de la Bourse
(PI. C, D, 4) , and passengers may embark or disembark in small boats
(50 c.; 25 c. each for a party) on giving previous notice, at La Bouille
(p. 58), Duclair (p. 65), .lumieges (p. 65), Ouerbaville-la-Mailleraye, Caudebec
(p. 65), Villequier (p. 65), Quillebeuf (Tancarville ; p. 64), and Eonfleur
(p. 172). Le Havre (Quai Notre-Dame), see p. 60.

From Eouen to Orleans, via Elbeuf, Dreux, and Chartres, 145 M.,
railway in 63/4-83/4 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 20, 16 fr. 35, 11 fr. 75 c). To Elbeuf,
14 M., railway in 1/2-^/4 br. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 40, 80 c). The trains start
from the Gare' d'Orleans (p. 48), and follow the left bank of the Seine, at
some distance from the river. — 2 M. Petit-Quevilly ; 872 M. Grand-Quevilly.
51/2 M. Petit- Couronne, with Corneille's dwelling-house (p. 54), now a museum
(adm. 10-4). Before and after (91/2 M.) La Bouille-Mouliiieau.v we enjoy a fine
retrospective view of Rouen. The train next traverses three long tunnels
and a viaduct, and once more skirts the left bank of the river.

14 M. Elbeuf {Grand Hotel, Place de THotel-de-Ville), a cloth-manu-
facturing town with 2U,540 inhab., on the left bank of the Seine. The
churches of St. Jean., near the Place de la Mairie, and St. Etienne, about
1/4 M. to the S.W., both dating from the Renaissance period, contain good
stained glass of the 14-15th centuries. The Gare d'Elbeuf-St-Aubin (p. 42)
lies on the right bank of the Seine, about I72 M. from the Gare d'Elbeuf-
Ville or d Orleans (for Rouen, Dreux, Chartres, and Orleans), on the opposite
bank. — Branch under construction to (14 M.) Le Neubotirg (p. 156), whither
an omnibus (2 fr.) plies at present. Steamboat to Rouen.

Beyond (21 M.) Tostes the line enters the Foret de Louviers., and beyond
(28 M.) St-Germain-de-Louviers the Eure is crossed. — 2GV2 M. Louviers
CMouton; Grand Cerf), an imiiortant cloth-manufacturing town with 10,200
inhab., is situated on the Eure. The G>ithic church of Kotre Dame has a
magnificent S. portal of the 15th century. Branch to >S'^ Pierre -du-Vauv7-ay,
see p. 42. — Between Louviers and Di-eux the railway follows the valley
of the Eure, which presents no striking scenery. From (3OV2 M.) Acqnigny
a line runs to Evreux (p. 155) ; and from (^51/2 M.) Pacy-sur-Eure (Lion
d'Or) another runs to Vern(m (p. 43). — 52 M. Bueil is also a station on
the line from Paris to Cherbourg (p. 155). 541/2 M. Iv7'y-la-Bataille, famous
for the victory gained in 1590 by Henri IV over the League, celebrated
by Macaulay in a stirring lay. A pyramid commemorates the event. In
the neighbourhood are the ruins of a castle and some remains of an abbey
of the 11th century. — 58 M. Ezy-Anet (H.)t. de Diane). The famous Chateau
d'Anet, 1 M. to tlie S.E., was built in 1548-1552 for Diana of Poitiers by
Philibert Delorme at the command of Henry II. Only a few remains of
the original building are preserved, including the portal, one wing forming
the present chateau, and the chapel, which still retains some sculptures
by Jean Goujon and a marble mosaic. There is also a second chapel built
by Diana, in which she was buried, but her monument is destroyed. —
60 M. Croih-Sorel. At St. Roch, on the opposite bank of the Eure, is the
large paper-mill of the firm Firmin-Didot of Paris. — 71 M. Dreux (Buffet),
see p. 182. The line now ascends the valley of the Blaise, passing several
small stations. — 97 M. Chartres (Buffet), see p. 185. — Traversing the
level plains of the Beauce (p. 264), our line intersects the railway from Paris
to Vendumc and Tours (see p. 267) at (II3V2 M.) Votes. It also crosses the
Nogent-le-Rotrou and Orleans line (see p. 199) at (129V2 M.) Patay, where
Jeanne d'Arc and Dunois overthrew the English in 1429, and which was
the scene of obstinate contests between the French and the Bavarians in
1870. — 146 M. OrUans, see p. 210.

From Rouen to Amiens, see p. 34; to and from London via Le Havre
and Southampton, see pp. 64, xiii.

60

6. From Le Havre to Rouen (Paris).

From Le Havre to Paris, W/2 M., Railway in 31/2-774 irs, (fares
25 fr. 55, 17 fr. 25, 11 fr. 2oc.)j to Rouen, see p. 64. — From London to
Le Havre, see p. xiii.

Le Havre. — Hotels. -Geand Hotel Fkascati (PI. B, 4), on the beach,
far from the centre of the town, R., L., & A. from 4, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. ;
Manor House (PI. a 5 B, 4), Rue Jeanne d'Arc 3 ; Continental (PI. b; C, 4),
opposite the Jetce, these three of the first classy de Bordeaux (PI. d; C, 3),
Place Gambetta, R.,L.,& A. 4-6, B. l'/4, dej. 31/2, D. 4 fr. incl. wine, pens.
10-12 fr.-, DE Normandie (PI. e; C,3), Rue de Paris 106 and lOS, R. 2-», D.
31/2 fr.; d'Angleterre (PI. f; C,2), Rue de Paris 124 and 126, R. 2-5, L. 1/4,
A. 1/2, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. incl. cider, pens. B-lUfr.; Toetoni (PI. g; C, 3),
Place Gambetta, with cafe (see below), R. from 3, pens. 8fr. ; Richelied
(PL h; C, 3), Place Richelieu (office of the railway-omnibus), dej. 1/2, D. 3 fr.
incl. cider; Aigle o'Or (PL j ; C, 4), Rue de Paris 32 and 34, R. 2-5, L. 1/4,
A. 1/2, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. incl. wine, pens. 10, omn. 1/2-I fr. ; des Armes-
de-la-Ville-du-Havre (PL k ; 0, 4), Rue d'Estimauville 26; des Negociants
(PL 1 ; C, 3), Rue Corneille 5, pens. 9 fr. ; de l'Amiraute (PL i ; C, 4), Grand
Quai, R. from 3, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; des Indes, Grand Quai 65, R., L.. & A.
3-i, dej. 21/2, D. 31/2 fr. incl. cider; de Rouen, Rue de Paris 82, dej. 2, D.
21/2 fr.; DE Dieppe, Rue de Paris 76, dej. IV2-2, D. 2-21/2 fr. —' Grand
Hotel Parisien, Oj'iposite the Station, R. from 2, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr.

Restaurants. At the Hotel de Bordeaux (see above): Tortoni, in the
Arcades of the Place Gambetta, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. incl. wine; Hot. de V Aigle
d'Or, dv'j. 2V2, D. 3 fr. incl. cider; Plat d^ Argent, Place Richelieu, dej. 1^/4,
D. 21/4 fr., beer or cider included.

Cafes. Tortoni (see above) and others in the Place Gambetta; Caf^ de
VHCtel Frascati, on the quay; Grand Cafi International, Guillaume Tell,
Place de LHotel-de-Ville; Cafe de Paris^ Place Richelieu, etc.

Cabs. In the town, per drive 1 fr. 25 c., per hr. 2 fr. (after midnight
2 & 3 fr.); on the heights as far as the octroi-limits, per drive 1^/4, per hr.
2V4 fi'- (after midnight 21/2 and 3 fr.): to Ste. Adresse (Le Carreau), per
drive 13/4, per hr. 2^/4 fr. (3 fr. at night). Trunks, 20, 30, or 50 c.

Electric Tramways. 1. From the Jetie (PJ. B, C, 4) to Graville (p. 64),
via the Rue de Paris, the Hotel de Ville ('section"; see below), the Rue
Thiers, and the Hond-Point, at the N. end of the Rue de la liepublique
(PL G, 1). — 2. From the Jetie to the Station (PL F, 2), via the Hues Aug.-
Normand, Gustave-Cazavan, and de Bordeaux, the Place Gambetta, and (:^uai
d'Orleans. — 3. From the Jelie to La Hdve (see PL A, 1 : p. 64), via the
Rue Auguste-Normand and Boul. Maritime. — 4. From the Hotel de Ville
(PL C, 2) to La H've, via the Boul. de Strasbourg and Boul. 3Iaritime. —
5. From the Rond Point (PL G, 1) to Ste. Adresse (beyond PL A, 1), via the
Cours de la Republique, the Station, Boulevard de Strasbourg, Hotel de^'ille,
Rue St. Roch, and Ifue d Etretat. — 6. From the Station (PL F, 2) to Sanvic
and Bliville, via the Boul. de Strasbourg, Boul. Maritime. Rue Guillemard, etc.
— 7. From the Grand Quai (PL C, 4) to the Grands Bassins (I'l. G, 5), via
the Rue de Paris, Hotel de Ville, Boul. de Strasbourg, the Siation, Rue
Laffitte, etc. — 8. From the Station (PL F, 2) to the Abattoirs and the
Chuntiers de la Miditerranie (near the Seine), via the Rue Laftitte. — 9. From
the Boul. Amiral-Mouchez (K. of Place Amiral-Courbet ; PL G, 4) to Sanvic
(comp. PI. A, 1), via the Rue Bellot, the (luays, Hotel de Ville, Rue Thiers,
Rue des Penitents, etc. — 10. From the P.ace Thiers (PL D, 1) to A'otre
Dame (PL 0, 4), via the Rue du Champ-de-Foire, the Bassin de la Barre,
and the Rue Faidherbe. — 11. ^rom the Place Gambetta (PL C, 3) to the
Cimetihre Ste. Marie (N.E.) via the Rue Kd. Larue, Rue Thiers, Rue des Peni-
tents, etc. — Fares: 1st cl. 15 c, 2nd cl. 10 c, within the town, 5 c. extra
with 'correspondance'; outside the town, 10 c. or 5 c. extra.

Cable Railways. Fnniculaire de la Cdte, from the lower station, ±tue
Gustave-Flaubert 5.ibis (PL D, 1), to the upper station, Rue de la C6te4i;
fare 10 c. — Funiculaire Ste. Marie, from the Rue de Normandie, neai- *be

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LE HAVRE. 6. Route. 61

end of the Cours de la Re'publique (PI. G-, 1), to the Cimetiere Ste. Marie
(p. 64).

Steamboats, starting from the Grand Quai (PI. C, D, 4), to ffonfieur
(p. 172) twice a day, in 3/4 hr. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 10, 60 c.); to Rouen, daily
or every second day in summer, in 7-8 hrs. (p. 59); to Trouville (p. 173),
three or four times daily during the season, in 3/4 hr. (fares 3 fr., 1 fr. 60,
85 c.); to Caen (p. 166), daily, in 3-4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 50 c., return
ticket 7 fr. 30, 5 fr. 30 c). — Steamers also to Southampton, London, New
York (twice weekly), etc., see pp. xiii, xiv.

Porters ( Commissionnaires) meet the boats from Honfleur, Trouville, etc. ;
landing or embarking a trunk 10 c; trunk from the quay to the station,
50 c. (l)argain necessary), other packages 10-40 c.

Omnibus to Etretat (p. 70) in 3-3V2 hrs., starting from the Place du
Vieux-Marche at 7 a.m. and at 4 p.m. (fare 3 fr. 60, 8 fr. 10 c). See also p. 71.

Post & Telegraph Office (PL C, D, 2), Boul. de Strasbourg 108. —
Branch Oflice, Rue de Paris 1.

Baths. Sea Baths : Frascati, incl. costume and towel 60 c. ; ladies, 50 c,
with costume 1 fr. ; guide-baigneur 50 c; less for subscribers. — Fresh
"Water Baths: Baivs Notre-Dome, Rue de Paris 22, near the quays.

Casinos. At the Hotel Frascati; adm. 1 fr. ; subscription for the sea-
son 30 fr. Casino Marie Christine, at Ste. Adresse (p. 64); adm. 1 fr.

Theatres. Grand Thidlre, Place Gambetta; ThMtre-Cirqtie, Boul. de Stras-
bourg 155. — Cafe -Concert: Folies-Bergere, Rue Lemaitre 54 (PI. B, 3).

Bankers. Banque de France (PI. C, I), 1, 2), Rue Thiers 22; Cridit
Lyonnais, Boul. de Strasbourg 73 and Place de THotel-de-Ville 24; Soci&t&
Oin&rale, Rue de la Bourse 27 and Place Carnot.

British Consul, E. Cecil Hertslet, Esq., Rue Ed. -Larue 5; vice-consul,
J. S. Rowell, Esq. (also Lloyd's agent). — American Consul, Chas. W. Chan-
cellor, Esq., Rue du Chilou 1 ; vice-consul, Cicero Brown., Esq.

English Church, Rue de Mexico; services at 10.30 and 6 (4.30p.m. in
winter). Chaplain, Rev. F. Millard, B. A., Rue Vacquerie 29. — Wesleyaii
Methodist Chapel, Place Gambetta 21; services at 11 and 6.30; ministers.
Rev. A. S. Hocking and P. Ellenberger. — Mission to Seamen, Quai d'Orleans 89.

Le Havre , formerly cailled Havre -de- Grace , from a chapel of
Notre-Dame-de-Grace founded by Louis XII. in 1509, is a hand-
some town with hroad streets, hut it contains few special points
of interest. Its situation at the mouth of the Seine is extremely
advantageous. It is now the seaport for Paris, and next to Marseilles
the most important in France (119,470 inhah.). The buildings and
the commercial prosperity of tbe town, which is mainly derived from
its ship-building yards and sugar-refineries, are of very recent origin.

The importance of Le Havre dates from the reign of Francis I., who
fortified it in 1510 and endeavoured to make it a harbour of the first rank,
thence to carry out his naval schemes against England. In 1545 he assembled
here 176 sail, the attack of which on the Isle of Wight was, however,
repulsed. In 1562 Le Havre was occupied by English troops for a short
time. Under Richelieu and Colbert the prosperity of the town rapidly
increased, and in 1694 the English fleet made a determined but unsuccess-
ful attack on the new rival of English commerce. In 1796 Admiral Sir
Sidney Smith, in an attempt to capture a French vessel, close to the guns
of the citadel, was taken prisoner by the French.

The Rue de Paris, beginning at the W. end of the Grand Quai
(PI. C, 4), where passengers from England disembark, and inter-
secting the town from S. to N., is the centre of traffic. At its S. end
stands the Musee-Bibliothequb (PI. C, 4), built in 1845 (open on
Sun. and Thurs., 10 to 4 or 5; also on Tues. in summer, and on
other days on application to the concierge).

62 Route 6. LE HAVRE. Musie.

On the Ground Flook are sculptures, including, towever, only a few
original works: to the left, 37. Sanson^ Pieta; 18. Gayrat'd, Magdalen;
4. Bonnaffi, Terpsichore; to the right, 26. Oudind, Sleeping Psyche. — The
Easement contains a small archaological collection. — The collection of
paintings begins in the gallery to the right in the Entresol. From right
to left: 142. Dawant., Salute at the Invalides; 41. Spanish School, Portrait;
113. Bonvoisin^ Cabinet of an amateur; 22. A. del Sar(o{1), Holy Family;
72. flemish School, Louis XI. praying to St. Francis de Paul; 147. De-
veria. Divorce of Heury VIII.; 117. Boudin, Pardon of i^te. Anne la Palud ;
no number, A. Morion, Launching the lifeboat; Em. Michel. Spring; 197.
Ch. Lhnillier, Cafe of the Turcos; 133. L. L. Couturier, Water-carriers;
110. Benner, Fishermen; 63. Copy of Rubens, Battle of Amazons. — In the
left gallery are drawings, crayons, and engravings ; 73-79. Yvon, The Seven
Deadly Sins (drawings); Gnlbrund, 31. The collector, 29. The scholar
(crayons). — Staircase. 229. Roll, Inundation at Toulouse in 1878; 181.
G. de Lafosse, Consecration of the Virtiin ; 245. A. Yon, Christ expelling
the money-changers; 124. Champ^nartin, St. G-enevieve; lliO. Georges-Scmvage,
Villon the poet undergoing Ihe ordeal of water at the Chatelet (1457).

First Floor. Saloon, from right to left: 13. Giordano, Cato of Utica ;
23. Solimena, Simon Magus; 78. L. Bakhuysen, Fishing-boats; 155. Fragonavd,
Head of a youth; no number, Renouf, Cliffs at Oudalhs; 177. Humbert,
John the Baptist; 79. A. Cuyp, Girl and goat; 185. Largilliere, A sculptor;
no number, E. Muraton, Fruit and flowers ; 248. Vien, Lot and his daugh-
ters; no number, Renouf, Brooklyn Bridge; 238. Troyon, Sheep; 67. Teniers
the Younger, Card-players; 8j. N. Maes, An admiral; 220. Pelez, Laundry.
— 97. Van de Velde the Younger, Sea-piece ; 62. Rubens (?), Cupids with
festoons of fruit; 14. Gvardi, Piazza di S. Jlarco at Venice; no number.
Van Balen the Elder , Return from the hunt; iQ'.). Badin, The voung patient;
25. liepolo. Sketch for a ceiling; 163. V. G. Gilbert. The Halles, at Paris;
170. Hanoleau, The mill. — 98. Van de Velde, Sea-piece; 6S. Verlat, Dogs;
141. BavidO), Portrait; 16. Manfredi, Prodigal Son; 178 (above), CI. Jac-
quand, Christopher Columbus; 11. Cerquozzi, Flowers; 82. M. d'Bondekoeter,
D.>g and game; 132. Couture, Prodigal Son; 171. Bureau, Gathering sea-
weed in Brittany; no number, /. P. Laurens, The interdict (ilth cent.);
Ch. Thomas, Flowers game, etc.; 226. Hubert Robert, Fire at Rome; 172.
Hermann-Mon, Wolf! wolf! 5i. Huysmans, Landscape with sheep; 146.
Besportes, Game and fruit; 6. Allori (Brvnzino?), Young goldsmith of Flor-
ence; 7. Caravaggio, Portrait; 102. Achard, Landscape; 8. L. Carracci,
St. A'Jatha; 56. Jordaens, The Evangelists. — 193. Lerolle . Harvester;
29. Domenichino, S. Carlo Borromeo; 40. Riberai'/), St. Sebastian; 8?. Mo-
lenaer. Skaters; no number, G. Jeannin, Flowers; 39. Ribera, St. Peter
penitent; 246. Yvon, Vision of Judas.

1\\G. Library, with about 50,0C0 vols, and an important cabinet of coins,
has a separate entrance in the Rue des Viviers, and is open daily, 9-12
and 2-5, except on Sun. and holidays.

From the S. end of the Eue de Paris the Grand Quai is continued to
the W. by the Chaussiie des Etats-Uni^, terminating in the *Jetee dn Kord
(PI. B, 5), or N. pier, which commands a fine view, and is a favourite
promenade. To the right is the large Hotel Frascati (p. 60), with a casino
and batbing-establisliment, and farther on are the batteries defending the
entrance to the harbour, and Ihe cliffs of Ste. Adresse (p. 64), with the
two light-houses of La Heve (p. 64). To the S.E., beyimd the busy mouth
of the Seine, appears Villerville (p. 175), with Honfleur (p. 172) to the left
and Trouville and Deauville (pp. 173, 174) to the right.

Farther up the Rue de Paris, on the right, is the church of
Notre-Dame (PL C, 4), huilt in the 16th cent, in a style showing
the transition from Gothic to Kenaissance. The tower, formerly higher,
was originally a fortified beacon. Organ-case of 1630.

In the Vie'ux Marchc (PI. C, 4), to the right, a little farther on, is the
former Palais de Justice, now containing an important Musium of A'atural
Msionj (open Sun. and Thurs,, 10 to 4 or 5).

Harbour.

LE HAVRE. 6. Route. 63

We now cross the Place Gambetta (PI. C, 3), which is hounded
on the W. by the Grand Theatre and on the E. hy the Bassin de
Commerce, and is embellished with statues, hy David d' Angers, of
Bernardin de St. Pierre (1737-1814), author of 'Paul and Virginia',
to which the reliefs refer, and Casimir Delavigne, the dramatist
(1794-1848), hoth natives of Havre. Thence we continue to follow
the Rue de Paris to the fine Public Gardens (military hand on Thurs.
from 8.30 to 9.30 p.m.) in front of the Hotel de Ville (PL C, 2), a
noteworthy modern building in the Renaissance style. The hand-
some Boulevard de Strasbourg, which passes the Hotel de Ville, is
nearly II/4 M. long and traverses the town from the sea on the W. to
the railway-station (see below) on the E. (tramway, see p. 60).

In tLis street, to tlie W. of tlie Hotel- de Ville, is the Square St. Koch
(PI. B, 2), with statues of Armida, by Mixlot, and Rebecca, by Fabisch.
A military band plays here on Sun. in summer from 4.30 to 5.30 or from
3.30 to 4.30 p.m. — At the W. end of the boulevard works in connection
with an extensive new deep water basin have been going on since 1896.

We turn to the E. (right) at the Hotel de Ville, in order to reach
the station. In the Boulevard de Strasbourg we pass the Sous- Pre-
fecture (PI. D, 2), on the left, fronting the Place Carnot, on the
S. side of which is the Exchange (PL D,2, 3), a large erection
(1878-80) in the Renaissance style, with six domes (open 9-12 and
3-5.30). The S. facade of the Exchange faces the Place Jules Ferry
(PL D, 3). Farther on, to the left, is the Palais de Justice (PL E, 2),
in a pseudo-classical style, and to the right are several Barracks.
The Eailioay Station (PL F, 2) is at the E. end of the boulevard.

The extensive Hakbour and Docks (PL C-G, 2-5) deserve a
visit. Between 1831 and 1887 over 5,000,000^. was spent upon
them, and very extensive additions are projeited.

The port includes a well-protected Avant-Port or outer harbour, on
the N. side of which is the Grand (Juai, and 9 basins with 16 locks or
sluices (comp. the Plan). The oldest, and also one of the smallest, basins
is the Bastiin du Eoi , excavated in 16(j9. The larj:est is the "Bassin de
VEure (PI. E, F, 3, 4, 5), upwards of 70 acres in area, constructed in ld46
-1856, where the huge Transatlantic steamers lie. The Dock Warehouses to
the ^.E. of this basin cover, with their] various dependencies, an area of
57 acres. The Bassin de la Citadelle occupies the site of a citadel constructed
by Charles IX. The Canal de Tancarville, which enters the Bassin de 1 Eure
to the N. of the Bassin Bellot, is intended to connect the Seine directly
with the harbour, and to enable ships to avoid the dangers of the 'barre',
or tidal wave in the estuary. The canal, which is named from the castle
mentioned at p. 64, is 15 M. long, It'O ft. wide, and 14 ft. deep.

A good view of the town may be enjoyed from the Cote d'' Ingouville^
the cable-railway to which (p. GO) is reached via the Rue and Place Thiers.
Just before the Place we pass the Church of St. Michel (PI. C, 1), in the
Renaissance style, with a Lady Chapel decorated with stained glass by
Duhamel-Marette and paintings by Ph. Hugrel (1894). — The Rue de la
Cote, in which the cable-railway ends, extends to the W. to (2/3 M.)
Ste. Adresse (p. 64), by which we may descend.

The "View is specially fine at sunset and at night when the town and
harbour are lit up. Unfortunately, however, it is much hindered by the
numerous villas and garden-walls. — Above the Rue de la Cote (No. 43),
in the direction of the Rue de Montivilliers (PI. C, 1), is the Villa F6Ux

64 Route 6. YVETOT.

Faure. — On the E. the Eue de la Cote is continued by the Rue de TAh-
baye iP/t M.), past the Fort de Tourneville and the Grand Cimeti^re Ste. Marie,
whence we may descend towards the Cours de la Re'publique, by the
Funiculaire Ste. Marie (p. 60) or by the Rue du Ge'ne'ral-Rouelles.

Ste. Adresse (Hdt. Marie Christine; Grand Hotel des Phares; Restaur.
Beat, on the beach), on the cliff, 2V2 M. to the IN.W. of Le Havre, is much
frequented for sea-bathing (bath with costume 50-75 c). It may be reached
by tramway fNo. 5; p. 49), or on foot via the Boul. Maritime, beginning
at the W. end of the Boul. de Strasbourg (PI. A, 2). The Casino (adm. 1 fr.)
was formerly the villa of the late Queen Maria Christina of Spain. The
Phares de la Heve, commanding a magnificent view, may be reached in
15-20 min. from Ste. Adresse. About halfway up is a sugarloaf monument
to General Lefevre-Desnovettes (1773 1822), who perished by shipwreck. It
is dangerous to approach the crumbling edge of the cliffs at the top.

From Le Havre to Etretat (33 M. in I3/4-23/4 hrs.^ fares 5 fr. 95c., 4 fr.,
2 fr. 60 c.) AND FiccAMp (28 M. in I3/4-2V2 brs. ; fares 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 40, 2 fr.
20 c), railway forming part of the projected through-line to Dieppe (comp.
p. 41). — 31/2 M. Harfleur (seebiilow). — 6 M. MontivilUers (Hot Fontaine), an
industrial town (5258 inhab.), w'th an old abViey-clmrch of the 11th and
16th centuries. — 15 M. Criquetot-V Esneval, 6M. from Etretat by road (p. 70),
though 18 M. by rail. - 231/2 M. Les Jfs (p. 67) ; thence to Etretat, see
p. 69 j to F&camp, see p. 67.

From Le Havre to Rouen.

55 M. Railway in 1V3-3V2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 95, 6 fr. 75, 4fr. 40 c.).

On quitting Le Havre we pass (l'/4 M.) Graville-Ste-Honorine, a
kind of suburb of Le Havre, with its interesting Norman cburcli of
the 11th and 13th cent., on the high ground to the left. — 31/2 M.
Harfleur (Hot. des Armes, near the church), with '2340 inhab.. once
an important seaport. Its old harbour has been filled up by the
deposits of the Lezarde; the new harbour, about l/o M. away, is
connected with the Canal do Tancarville (p. 63). In 1415 the town
was taken by Henry V. of England, to whom the foundation of the
fine Gothic Church is attributed. Railway to Les Ifs (see above).

1572 M. Breaute-Beuzeville (Buflet; Railway Hotel) is the junc-
tion for Fe'camp (Etretat), see p. 67.

FEOMBRfiAUTE-BEUZEViLLE TO LiLLEBONNE, 81/2 M,, railway in 30-40 min.
(fares 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 15, 75 c). -- S'/s M. Bolbec (Hotel de Fecamp), a prettily
situated industrial town, with 12,240 inhabitants. — The church of (572 M.)
Gruchet-le-Valasse contains some beautiful choir-stalls. The ancient abbey
dates from the 13-l7th centuries. — 8V2 M. Lillebonne (Hdtil du Commerce),
a small town (6450 inhab.) on the site of Juliohona, the capital of the
Caletes (Pays de Caux), contains a well-preserved Theatre and numerous
other relics of Roman times. The ruined Castle belonged to William the
Conqueror, who here proposed to his nobles the conquest of England. —
About 6V2 Jl. to the W., on a rock rising 160 ft. above the Seine, not far
from the steamboat-station of Quilleboeuf (p. 59), stands the imposing ruined
'■'Gusfle of Tancarville, dating chiefly from the 13th century. The towers
are 65 ft', in height, and the walls are 20 ft. thick.

1972 M. BolbeC'Nointot is the station for Bolbec (see above),
2 M. to "the S. (omn. 72 fr.). — 31 M. Yvetot (Hot. des Victoires;
*du Chtmin-de-Fer) is another manufacturing place , with 7o45
iuhab., the ancient counts or soi-disants kings of which are play-
fully described by lie'ranger.

ST. VALERY-EN-CAUX. 7. Route. 05

An omnibus leaves Yvetot for (7 M.) Caudebec (see below) at 8.10 a.m.,
noon, and 5.10 p.m. (fare i'^/t fr.).

36 M, MotteviUe. Railway to St. Valery, see below.

A branch-railway runa from MotteviUe to (16 M.) Cleres^ a junction
on the line from Rouen to Dieppe, and (27 M.) Monterolier-Buchij, junction
for the railways from Eouen to Amiens ond to Dieppe (pp. 31 and 41).

The pleasant village of (427-2 M.) Favilly is commanded by the
restored chateau of Esneval. The train quits the undulating and
fertile table-land of the Pays de Caux, and descends to the viaduct
of Barentin, 570 yds. in length, and 100 ft. above the level of the
valley. — 44 M. "Bsirentin (Bot.du Grand-St-Pierre), a manufactur-
ing town with 6000 inhah., possesses a fine new Romanesque church.

From Barentin to Caudebkc, 18 M., railway in IV4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 35,
2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). — I'/i M. Pavilhj -Ville (see above); 3 M. Barentin
Ville (see above). 9 Bf. Duclair, on the right bank of the Seine, is a port
of call in summer for the steamers from Le Havre to Rouen (p. 58). — 11^/2 M.
Yainville-Jumieges. About 1^4 M. to the S., On a peninsula of the winding
Seine, is the village of Jumieges (Hotel de VAhbaye)^ also a steamboat
station. The "Abbey ^ the majestic and picturesque ruins of which vise
near the village, was founded in the 7th cent, and was not destroyed
till 1790 and subsequent years. The heart of Agnes Sorel (d. 1449; see
p. 287) was interred in the abbey-church. Visitors are admitted daily from
11 to 5 (Vzfr.). — 17 M. St. Wandrille also retains the extensive ruins of a
magniticent "'Abbey., founded in the 7th cent., but rebuilt at the close of
the 14th. — 18 M. Caudebec (Hdtel de la Marine; du Havre)^ a small town
on the right bank of the Seine, was formerly the capital of the Fays de
Caux^ and played a considerable part in the wars between the English
and French. It was captured in 1419 by the former under Talbot and
Warwick. The beautiful Church combines the Gothic and Renaissance
styles; the 'Tower is 330ft. high. The W. portal, the balustrades on the
top, formed of Gothic letters, the triple floral crown of the spire, and the
stained glass are noteworthy. Caudebec retains much of its niediseval
quaintness. It is also a steamboat-station (p. 59); omnibus to Yvetot,
see above. — A pleasant expedition may be made along the banks of the
Seine to Villequier (steamboat-station, p'. 59), a fishing-village about 3 M.
below Caudebec.

The train soon enters a tunnel, nearly P/2^i- in length, heyond
which it reaches (49 M.) Malaunay, where the Dieppe line diverges.
From this point to (55 M.) Rouen, and Paris, see p. 41.

7. Watering-Places between Dieppe and Le Havre.

I. From Rouen (Paris) to St. Valery-en-Caux and Veules.

431/2 M. Railway to (SSy^M.) St. Valery in 12/3-3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 5, 4 fr.
75, 3fr. 10 c). Omnibus four times a day from the station at St. Valerv to
(5 M.) Veules; fare 1 fr. — From Paris to St. Valerv, 125 M., Railway in
41/4-7 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 70, 15 fr. 35, 9 fr. 95 c).

From Rouen to (19 M.) MotteviUe, see above. — From (31 M.")
St. Vaast-Bosville a branch-line diverges to Cany (Veulettes , Les
Petites- Dalles; see pp. 66, 67). To Dieppe, see p. 41. Farther on
we ohtain a hrief glimpse of the sea, on the left. — 35 M. Neville,
a large village with an interesting church.

38I/2M. St. Valery-en-Caux. — Hotels. De la Paix, at the bridge,
pens, from 8 fr. ; de la Plage (7 fr.), des Bains (commercial), Place de
THotel-de-Ville; de France, de Paris, at the harbour, pens, from 7 fr.

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 5

06 Route 7. VEULES.

Sea-Baths. Bath and bathing-box 40c., with costume, etc. 1 fr., 'guide-
baigneur' 40 c. — Casino. Admission 1 fr. ^ subscription, per week 7, fort-
night 13, month 22, season 35 fr.; for two pers., 13, 20, 28, and 88 fr.; etc.

St. Valery-en-Caux, a town and bathing-resort with 3900 inhah.,
possesses a small harhour, in a hollow between the cliffs. The old
town lies to the right of the station; the new town, about 7-2 M.
distant, is situated near the harbour. The former contains a Church
of the 15-16th cent., but the new town has hitherto contented itself
with a quite inadequate Chapel. Beyond the bridge between the
floating-dock and the harbour is an antique Howse (16th cent.). The
Bathing Establishment is reached from the town by narrow and rough
streets, and offers few attractions. The beach, as usual on this coast,
has a border of shingle before the strip of firm sand used by the bathers.

From St. Valery to Dieppe^ sec p. 41. The omnibus starts from the
Hotel des Bains at 6 a.m. — There is no public conveyance from St. Valery
to Veulettes, which is only about 5 M. by road; travellers thither must
either walk or make a detour of 18 M. by railway and diligence (see
below). — A diligence leaves St. Valery for (20 M.) Fecamp (p. 67) via
(71/2 M.) Cant/ (see below), on Mon., Wed., and Sat., starting from the Hotel
des Bains, at 6 a.m. (3'/2hrs.; fare 3 fr.).

The omnibus -route from St. Valery to Veules passes the old
town and crosses several pretty little valleys. The chateau of
(21/2 M.) Manneville dates from the 16th century.

5 M. Veules. — Hotels. De la Plage (with the diligence -office),
R., L., ife A. 2V2-3V2, pens. 6-7 fr., de Rouen, both adjoining the church;
DES Bains, near the beach, an annexe of the Hot. de la Plage. Kone of
the hotels are on the beach. Furnished houses are obtainable. — Sea
Baths 30 c, with costume and linen 50 c, 'guide-baigneur' 30 c. — Casino.
Per day V-', fortnight 7, month 13 fr.

Veules, a large village in a pretty valley, is a very pleasant sea-
bathing resort, and numerous handsome villas have been built over-
looking tlic tiny beach, between two clifts. A limpid stream rises
in tlie midst of the village, close to the road to St. Valery, and is
sufficiently powerful to turn several mills. Good water-cresses are
obtained near the curious source of the streamlet; and a shady
walk skirts its banks. Veules somewhat resembles Etretat (p. 70)
in its general characteristics, but is considerably less pretending.
— The road to Dieppe passes the end of the village (p. 41).

II. From Rouen (Paris) to Veulettes.
Les Petites-Dalles.

42 M. Railway to (36 M.) Canu in 1V4-23/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. -iO,
2fr. 85 c.). Diligence from Cany to (6 M.) Veulettes four times daily in the
season (fare IV4 fr.); and also to Les Pelitt's- Dalles (p. 67). — Railmat from
Paris to Cany, 122 31., in 4'M hrs. (fares 22 fr. 15 c., 15 fr., 9 fr. 70 c.).

From Tvouen to (31 M.) St. Vaast-Bosville, see p. 65. Our line
then diverges to the left from the line to St. Valery (p. 65).

36 M. Cany (Hotel du Commerce; de France) is a small town
on the right bank of the Durdent. — From Cany to Les Petites-Dalles,
see p. 67; to Dieppe via St. Valery-en-Caux, seep. 41. Diligence
from St. Valery to Fecamp, see above.

VKUjj.]TTE8. 7. Route. 07

The road to Veulettes follows the picturesque valley of the
Durdent, towards the N. 27-2 M. Vittefleur; 3 M. PaiueL The valley
now expands, forming a wide grassy level, which used to be inun-
dated at high-water. The river enters the sea by means of a canal be-
neath the shingle to the right of the bridge over which the road runs.

6 M. Veulettes. — Hotels. Gkand Hotel de la Plagk, well spoken
of, pens. 7 fr. ; »es Bains, adjoining. — Sea-Baths 40 c, for subscribers
to the casino 30 c, complete costume with 'peignoir' 60 c., 'guide-baigneur'
40 c. — Casino. Admission by day 30, in the evening or whole day 50 c.
Subscription for a week 4, fortnight 7'/2, month 15 fr.; for two pers. 8,
14, and 20 fr.; for three persons 12, 18, and 24 fr.

Veulettes itself is a small village, situated about '/-i M. from the
sea, in a valley to the W. of the valley of the Durdent; but the
bathing-establishment, the large hotels, and the villas perched on
the cliffs form an agreeable summer-resort. The great drawbacks
are the somewhat exposed position of the shingle-strewn beach
and the difficulty of obtaining a sheltered promenade.

Les Petites-Dalles is 5 M. to the S.W. of Veulettes, and St. Valery
(p. 65) is about 5 M. to the N.PJ. No public conveyance to either.

From Cant to Les Petites-Dalles, 7V2 M., diligence every afternoon
in the season (see the 'Indicateur'J ; fare IV'J fr. It is more conveniently
reached from Fecamp (see below). — The diligence from Cany follows the
Fecamp road, to the W., to (41/4 M.) Aimeville, where it turns to the N.,
passing (6V4 M.) Sasselot-le-Maiiconduit.

Les Petites-Dalles (Grand Hotel des Bains^ with a Casino; Leduu) is a
fishing-village, with a bathing-establishment situated at the mouth of a
small valley, bounded by cliil's and rocks and affording various sheltered
walks.

The parallel valley, 1 M. to the W., is called the valley of Les Grandes
Dalles (Hot. de la Plage), and about IVi M. farther on is the sea-bathing
place of St. Pier re- en- Port (Hotel des Terrasses), whence a diligence (IV2 fr.)
plies twice a day in the season to and from Fecamp, 7'/-j M. to the S.W.

III. From Rouen (Paris) to Fecamp.

51 M. Railway in 2-3V'2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 30, 6 fr. 25, 4 fr. 40 c). —
From Paris, 138 31., railway in 4V2-7V-.. hrs. (fares 24 fr. 95, 16 fr. 90, 11 fr.
5 c). — From Le Havre,, see p. 64.

From Rouen to (39 M.) Breaute - BeuzeoiUe ^ see pp. 65, 64.
43 M. Grainviile-GodervUle. — At (461/2 M.) Les Ifs (Hotel and
Buffet outside the station), to the right of the railway, is a fine
chateau of the 16th century. Branch to Etretat and to Havre, see
p. 69. — The railway next descends a wooded valley and passes
through two tunnels.

51 M. Fecamp. — Hotels. Gk.-H6t. des Bains, R.&A.3-12, L. 3/4, B.
IV2, <iej. 2^/2, D. 31/2 fr.; du Casino, de la Plage, d'Angleterre, all on
the beach; du Chakiot-d'Or, in the town. Place Thiers, R., L., & A. 3-5,
B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens, 91/2 fr.; Cancht, Place Thiers, pens. 7 fr. ;
Grand Cerf, Rue des Forts 10, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Hot. de la Gare, R. from I'/z,
D. 2V2-3 fr. — Cafds in the Place Thiers.

Sea-Baths. Bath with bathing-box 75, with costume and linen 1 fr.
20 c. ; no extra ch;irge for services of 'guide-baigneur\ — Casino. Admission
before noon 25 c., afternoon 50 c.; subscription, per week 11, fortnight 18,
month 34 fr., two pers., 18, 32, 54 fr. ; etc. Admission to theatre (for
non-subscribers), IV2-2V2, to balls 1-2 fr.

5*

68 Route 7. FECAMP.

Tramway. From the Casino via the Place Thiers and the Abbey Church
to the Rue Queue-de-Renard, near the E. end of the town, and in the
direction of Toussaint, a village 2V2 M. distant; fares 15, 25, 50 c.

Omnibuses. To Les Petites-Dalles (11 M., IV4 fr. ; see p. 67), thrice daily
during the season; to St. Pierre-en-Porl (T^/2 BI., l'/-^ fr. ; see p. bT), twice
daily; to St. Valery-en-Caux (20 M., 3 fr. ; p. 65), on Mon., Wed., and
Sat., starting at 4 p.m.; to Yport and Valmo7it, see p. 69.

British Vice-Consul, Moiis. G. Constaniin.

Fecamp is a town with 14,650 inhab., situated, like most of the
other towns and villages on this coast, in a small valley running
inland from the sea. The S. end of the town is ahout 11/4 M. from
the little harbour at the N. extremity of the valley. According to
the legend the name is derived from Ficus Campus, 'field of the
flg-tree\ from the fact that the sea washed up on the coast here the
trunk of a fig-tree in which Joseph of Arimathea had placed the
Precious Blood (see below). Its position on the English channel
and its possession of a tolerable harbour gave Fe'camp a certain im-
portance in the early history of Normandy and in the wars between
England and France; and its ancient Benedictine abbey lent it
another claim to consideration.

The Church of St. Etienne, which is seen to the left of the sta-
tion, dates from the 16th century. TheS. portal is fine; the W. tower
is moderp. The interior has undergone restoration, and has been
embellished with modern stained glass and paintings.

From the Place Thiers, which occupies the centre of the town,
we follow the line Alexandre Legros to the abbey. The monastery of
Fe'camp, founded by Duke Richard the Fearless about 990, is the
only one of the famous monasteries of Normandy that stood to the
N.E. of the Seine. The Abbey Churchy a most interesting relic of
the ll-16th cent., conceals an interior of great beauty and grace
under a somewhat unattractive exterior. The central tower is, how-
ever, stately though simple, and on the S. side is a fine portal of
the 14th century.

Inteiiiok. In the JVave. which is remarkable for its great length, we
notice the modern carved oak pulpit, with its numerous carved statuettes,
and the ofiicial pew. The Choir contains two altars, one overshadowed
by a tasteless canopy, the other embellished with bas-reliefs which
may be inspected from the ambulatory. It is surrounded with a handsome
railing. The two pillars in front of the choir are adorned with statues
and alto-reliefs in elaborate frames. The S. transept contains a curious
group of painted statues, representing the Death of the Virgin, executed
by a monk in 1519. Adjacent are some smaller groups of figures engaged
in prayer, a ciborium of the 15th cent. , and a tasteful Gothic credence
table. — The Apsidal Chapels are embellished with handsome Renais-
sance balustrades and with arcades. In the 3rd chapel to the right is
a tine frieze, formed of 16 alto-reliefs of the 11th cent., representing
scenes from the lives of Christ and the Virgin. The 4th and 5th chap-
els contain the Gothic tombs of abbots of Fecamp. In the 6th or Lady Chapel
are tine stained glass of the 14-16th cent., bas-reliefs on the altar, and some
beautiful wood-carving, the most interesting example of which is the
Veiled Christ, beneath the lirst window to the right. The 7th chapel has
a 16th cent. door. — Behind the high-altar is a marble ciborium of the
16th cent., reputed to contain some of the 'Precious Blood' (see above),
and still attracts numerous pilgrims. The other chapels contain tombs of the

FECAMP. 7. Route. 69

abbots, etc. In the ambulatory is a fine burial-chamber in the Eenaissance
style. The N. transept contains a Calvary, a Holy Sepulchre, some carvings
of scenes from the life of Christ, and an astronomical clock of 1667.

The remains of the abbey, adjoining the N. side of the church,
are now occupied by the Hotel de Ville^ built in the 17th century.
The Maste Municipal in the interior, containing a gallery of modern
pictures, is open on Sun., Mon., Thurs., & Sat., 2-5 (2-4 in win-
ter). There is also a small Public Library.

No. 108 in the long street leading from the Place Thiers to the
beach is the distillery of Benedictine^ a well-known liqueur, deriv-
ing its name from its first makers, the Benedictine monks. The
handsome building, with a Renaissance tower, was rebuilt after a
fire in 1892. Visitors are admitted daily, except Sun. & holidays,
9-11 and 2-4 or 5 (25 c), and are conducted by an employee (who
expects a gratuity) to view the distillery (uninteresting), the hand-
some Salle des Abbes., approached by a fine staircase, and the Musee^
which contains a small collection of sculptures, furniture, curios-
ities, and works of art, some dating from the ancient abbey.

The Bathing Establishment is situated on the broad shingly
beach, at some distance from the harbour and also from the casino,
which stands near the cliff, to the left. In front of the beach are a
terrace and a carriage-road, and above are situated several pretty
chalets for summer- visitors. The adjoining roads are, however,
unattractive and the surroundings are somewhat bleak and bare. —
The Harbour^ much improved since 1880, admits ships drawing
20 ft. at all states of the tide. Fe'camp is one of the chief stations
in France for deep-sea fishing-boats, and it also carries on trade in
coal with England and in timber with the Baltic ports.

An interesting excursion may be made from Fe'camp to Valmont (Hdtel
du Commerce; de France; omnibus 1 fr.), a village lying about 6V2 M. to
the E., in a valley vi'hich ends at the harbour. The Chateau dates from
the 11th, 15th, and 16th cent. ; and the ruined Abbey Church was built
partly in the 16th century. The Lady Chapel still contains several tombs
of that period.

From Fecamp to Etretat, IOV2 M., diligence daily (IV4 fr.), via
(1^4 M.) St. Leonard and (i'/'i M.) Froberville (see below^).

IV. From Rouen (Paris) to Etretat.

56 M. Railway in 2V4-3V3 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 30, 6 fr. 90, 4 fr. 50 c). —
Railway from Paris to Les Ifs, 133 M., in 41/4-61/2 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 85,
17 fr. 50, 11 fr. 45 c). — From Le Havre to Etretat, see pp. 64, 71.

From Rouen to (46V2 M.) Les Ifs (p. 67), see pp. 65, 64. The
line diverges to the left from that t) Fe'camp and runs towards the
W. — 491/2 M. Froberville -Yport.

A diligence plies daily in the season to (2V2 M. to the N.W.) Yport
(Hdtel du Casino; Rocher ; G. Tougard; Veuve Tougard; Dubosc), a con-
siderable village with a tidal harbour, and a sea-bathing establishment
resembling that of Fe'camp. About IV4 M. to the W. is Vaucottes (Inn),
another small bathing-place, with Vattetot-sur-Mtr on the cliffs above.

52 y.) M. L'^s- Loges -Vaucottes , 54 1/4 M. from Vaucottes (see
above). — 54 M. Bordeaux-Benouville.

70 Route 7. ETKETAT.

56 M. Etretat. — Hotels. Hauville, on the beacli at the end of the
Eue Alphonse Karr, pens, from 11 fr.-, Blanquet, also on the beach, pens.
10-12 fr.; DE LA Plage, Place Victor Hugo, R. 3-10, L. 1/2, B. 1, dej. 3,
D. 4 fr. incl. cider ; des Bains, Rue Alphonse Karr, R. from 3, dej. 3, D. S^J'-j fr.
incl. cider, pens. 7V2-IO fr. ; de Norman die. Place du Marche', pens. 8-12 fr. ^
DE Londres, Route du Havre, D. 31/2 fr. ; des Roches; des DeuxAc-
GUSTiNS. — Villas to let and furnished apartments are easily found.

Sea-Baths. At the Casino, bath, foot-hath, and attendant 90 c, sub-
scription for twelve baths 7 fr. 20, for twenty-five 14 fr. 40 c. ; costume
30, peignoir 25, towel 10 c.

Casino. Adm. 50 c, till 6 p.m. 1 fr., evening 1 fr., week 12, fort-
night 23, month 40, season 60 fr. ; for 2 pers. 22, 40, 65, and 90 fr. ; each
pers. beyond two, 7, 14, 20, and 25 fr. All subscriptions are 'suspended' on
extra occasions.

Post and Telegraph Office, Route du Havre 27.

Diligences. To Fecamp (p. 67) at 8 a.m. and 7 pm.-, to the station of
Criquetot (p. 64) at 6.8 a.m. and 4.33 p.m. ; to Le Havre, see pp. 64, 71.

Etretat, one of the most fashionable watering-places on the N.
coast of France, is a small town, with 1950 inhab., situated, like
most of its neighbours, at the foot of lofty cliffs, here 300 ft. high.
It is surrounded with pretty villas and attractive country-houses,
but it possesses no harbour. Etretat is especially affected by artists
and literary men, who are attracted by its picturesque and curious
situation, but these have brought in their train enough of the fash-
ionable world to render the cost of living here considerably higher
than at less pretentious but equally comfortable watering-places on
the same coast. Alphonse Karr did much to bring Etretat into notice.

The Railway Station^ beyond which is the Grand-Val (p. 71),
is at some distance from the beach. On the way to the latter we
pass the Romanesque Church. The Beach is protected from the sea
by a sort of embankment of shingle ; and a terrace, with the Casino,
has been constructed. The bathing-establishment is to the right ;
the left part of the beach is used by the fishermen for hauling up
their boats, and for their 'Caloges', i.e. old boats turned upside down
and used as huts for storing nets, etc. When the tide is out, the
women may be seen washing their clothes in a small streamlet of
fresh water which flows beneath the bank of shingle.

The Cliffs at Etretat are among the most interesting on this coast.
Both the Falaise d'Amont (to the right) and the Falai^e d'Aval (to
the left) are pierced by Fortes, worn by the action of the sea, and the
same cause has produced various curious pyramidal and needle-like
formations. The ascent is arduous, especially in warm weather, but
there are almost no other walks in the neighbourhood. At low wa-
ter the cliffs may be reached by the beach , though the path to the
Falaise d'Aval by this route is fatiguing. It is better to arrange to
return by the beach, if the tide will permit.

The Falaise d'Amont is ascended by a long flight of steps , be-
ginning on the bea<-h. On the summit are a modern chapel and a
signal-post. Near the latter a picturesque but rough path, to the
left, leads down to a short tunnel, at the other end of which is an
iron ladder (impassable by Indies) des'-ending to the beach.

MONTDIDIER. 8. Route. 71

To reach the top of the Falaise d'Aval we pass behind the Hotel
Blanquet and follow first the Rue de la Valette and then the tele-
graph-wires. The aspect of the cliffs , stretohing as far W. as the
Cap d'Antifer, is highly picturesque. A small grotto at the top of
one of the needle-rocks nearest to Etretat is dignified with the name
of the 'Chamhre des Demoiselles'. Another cavern below, near the
'porte', which we pass if we return by the foot of the cliffs, is called
the 'Trou a I'Homme'. In about 15-20 min. after leaving Etretat
we reach another rocky gateway, known as the ManneporU, whence
a zigzag stairway descends to the beach. Many people will prefer
to come thus far in order to bathe at liberty, instead of paying for
one of the stifling bathing-boxes at the Casino.

In the Grand-Val, the valley to the right of the railway, is the
Passee , a promenade to which admission is gained by payment.
Farther on are the Protestant Chapel (service in summer at 10 a.m.)
and the new Public Gardens.

From Etretat to Le Havre, by Railway^ see p. G4. — By Road,
I6V2 M., diligence twice daily in the season, starting from the Hotel des
Bains at 7 a.m. and 4.15 p.m. (fare 3 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c). - The road at first
ascends for some distance. 1^4 M. Le Tilleul. 3 M. La Potei-ie, about
11/4 M. from Brunevalles-Bains (Hot. Martin). About 2 M. to the N.N. E.
is the Cap Antifer (360 ft.), a dangerous promontory with a lighthouse, the
revolving light of which is visible for 32 M. in favourable circumstances.
5'/2 M. Goubert, about IV4 M. from St. Jouin (Hotel de Paris; de Rouen),
a fishing-village, resorted to by artists. 8V2 M. Canville. The tower of
the 13th cent, church of (llV-'^l.) Octeville is noteworthy. IS'/i M. Sanvic,
a large village, indicating the proximity of Le Havre. On the right is
Fort Ste. Adresse. The road finally makes a long descent, passing one
end of Ste. Adresse (p. 64), to (16V-' M.) Le Havre (p. CO).

8. From Paris to Cambrai.

a. Via Creil, St. Quentin, and Busigny.

129 M. Railway in 31/2-6 hrs. (fares 21 fr. 95, 14 fr. ^5, 9 fr. 60 c). The
chief points on this route are Compiegne (p. 102) and ;S^ Qnentin. — The
trains start from the Gare du Nord (PL B, C, 23, 24 ; p. 1).

To (112JVI.) Busigny, see pp. 101-106. — Our line soou diverges
to the left from the main line (to Namur; R. 15) and passes a
number of stations, of which the chief is (llS'/o M.) Caudry (Hot.
de Paris), a manufacturing town (9460 inhab.), with a church con-
taining a fine copper-gilt reliquary of the 15th century. — 128 M.
Cambrai, see p. 73.

b. Via Creil, St. Just, and Peronne.

121 M. Railway in 5^4-61/2 hrs. (tares as above).

From Paris to (491/2 ^^0 St. Just, see p. 25. The line here turns
to the N. E. and begins to traverse a flat and monotonous district.
— 55M. Maignelay, with a flue church of the 16th century.

621/.2 M. Montdidier (Buffet-Hotel; Hot. de Conde; St. Eloi; du
Cyyne), a town with 4644 inhab., on a slope above the Don, is said

72 Route 8. PERONNE. From Paris

to have been named by Charlemagne in memory of his captive the
Lombard king Didier, who was at first imprisoned here. The church
of St. Pierre (15th cent.) contains a remarkable tomb and a font of
the 11th cent., and a 'Holy Sepulchre'. The church of St. Sepulcre,
of the 15th and 17th cent., with a modern portal, contains also a
Holy Sepulchre of the 16th century. In the Palais de Justice are six
fine Bruxelles tapestries of the 17th century. Parmentier (d. 1813),
the chief advocate of potato-culture in France, was born at Mont-
didier, and is commemorated by a statue there.

From Montdidiee to Albekt (Arras)., 37 M., railway of local interest
ti-aversing an industrial district. — 171/2 M. Eosih'es (p. 97). — Beyond
(23'/2 M.) Chuignolles we cross the Canal de la Somme, and ttie Somme. —
32 M. Fricourt, on the line from Ham to Albert (p. 22j.

Railway to CompUgne and Amiens., see p. 103.

74 M. Roye (Hot. du Commerce), a town with 4300inhab., carries
on an extensive trade in the grain raised on the Santerre, the fertile
plateau which the railway traverses beyond the town. The church
of St. Pierre was built partly in the 11th, partly in the 16th century.
Branch to Compiegne, see p. 103.

82 M. Chaulnes (Hot. de la Gave). The village, 1/2 M. to the N.,
has a ruined Chateau and a Statue of F. Lhomond (1727-94), the
eminent scholar. — Railway from Amiens to Tergnier, see p. 97.

The railway enters the valley of the Somme , and crosses the
canal. — 86 M. Marchelepot ; 93 M. Ptronne (La Chapelette).

93^2 M. Peronne (Hot. St. Claude ; des Voyageurs), a town with
4816 inhab., on the Somme, is a fortress of the third class.

In the 9th and 10th cent. Peronne belonged to the counts of Verraan-
dois, one of whom confined King Charles the Simple here from 923 till
his death in 929. The cell in which the unfortunate captive is said to
have been starved to death is still pointed out. Charles the Bold captured
the town in 1465, and when Louis XI. came in 14G8 to conclude an agree-
ment with him, he imprisoned that monarch for two days in the castle,
in revenge for his having stirred up the town of Liege to revolt. Louis
was compelled to sign the 'Treaty of Peronne', which was even more
disadvantageous to France than the terms he had rejected at Conflans and
St. Maur, and we are told that tame jays and pies used to be taught to
cry 'Peronne' and 'Perette' in derision of the king's unfortunate policy.
Louis, however, retook the town in 1477. A statue commemorates Marie
Fouri (more accurately Catherine de Poix), who distinguished herself in
the successful defence of the town against the Duke of Nassau in 1536.
The fortress afterwards acquired the title of 'La Pucelle', with the reputa-
tion of never having been captured, but in 1815 the Duke of Wellington
broke the spell. On Jan. 9th, 1870, it capitulated to the Germans, after
a week's bombardment.

The church of St. Jean, dating from the 16th cent., has a fine
portal, and some good carvings and stained glass. The Hotel de
Ville contains a small Musee (adra. 50 c.; on Sun. gratis). The
Chateau consists of four heavy mediiBval towers.

From (102 M.) Roisel a branch diverges to St. Quentin (p. 104).
and from (107 M.) Epehy another, 12'/2 M. long, runs to Vein
(p. 21). Beyond (112 M.) Villers-Plouich we cross the Scheldt and
its canal.

to Cambral. CAMBRAI. 8. Route. 73

1157.2 M. Marcoing. Branch-line to (2 M.) Masnieres (2615 in-
hab.). Railway to Achiet and Bapaiime, see p. 21. — We pass three
suburban stations before reaching the main station at —

121 M. Cambrai [Hotel Boissy ^ de France, SoleiL d'Or^ Place
aux BoisJ, a town with 25,250 inhab., and the seat of an archbishop,
situated on a slope on the right bank of the Scheldt.

Cambrai is generally identified with the Camaracum of the Antonine
Itinerary. It afterwards became the capital of a small episcopal province.
The bishops, often at strife with the people, confided the defence of their
rights first to the dukes of Burgundy, afterwards to the German emperors,
who acted as 'chatelains'. The League of Cambrai, directed against Ven-
ice, was formed here in 1508 between the Emperor Maximilian, Louis XII.,
Pope .lulius II., and Ferdinand of Aragon; and in 1529 Margaret of Austria
and Louise of Savoy, acting respectively for Charles V. and Francis 1.,
signed here the 'Paix des Dames'. In 1595 Cambrai opened its gates to
the Spaniards, but in 1678 Louis XIV. recovered it by the treaty of Nim-
wegen. In 1815 it surrendered to the Duke of Wellington. Fe'nelon
(1651-1715) and Cardinal Dubois, minister of Louis XV., were archbishops
of Cambrai; and the chronicler Enguenand de Jlonstrelet (d. 1453) was born
here. Cambrai gives its name to 'cambric', a tine linen cloth or muslin,
invented in the 15th cent, by a certain Baptiste, and still one of the chief
products of the town. The French call it 'batiste', after the inventor.

As we enter the town tluough tlie Porte Robert., to tlie left of
tlie station, we pass near tlie Citadel., on the left, and then the hand-
some Square de TEsplanade, embellished with statues of Baptiste
and of Monstrelet (^ee above). The street goes on to the Place aux
Bois and the Place d'Armes, in which is the Hotel de Ville^ a large
and handsome modern edifice, with a facade sculptured by Hiolle
of Valenciennes. The Belfry, in the Rue St. Martin, farther on,
to the left, dates from the 15th and 18th centuries.

The Cathedral^ or church of Notre-Dume, farther on, to the left,
an abbey-church dating from the 18th cent., has been rebuilt since
a fire in 1859 in the former tasteless style. It contains statues of
Fenelon and Bishop Belmas, by David d' Angers, of Cardinal Regnier,
by Louis-Noel, and of Bishop Giraud, by Crauk, besides eight large
paintings in grisaille after Rubens, by Geeraerts of Antwerp.

Facing the exit from the cathedral is the Chapelle du Seminaire,
a former Jesuit college (17th cent. ). The street to the right of it
leads to the Rue de I'Epee, at No. 15 in which is a Musee (open Sun.
and holidays, 11-4; on other days fee), with paintings chiefly of
the Dutch and French schools.

The Place Thiers, farther to the right, is embellished with a
Monument to the memory of natives of the town who fell in 1870-71,
by Hiolle (p. 80).

A street to the right leads to the Place Fenelon, in which rises
the church of St. Gery, built in the 18th cent., with a tower 250 ft.
high, and a dome over the crossing. It contains a line marble rood-
screen (below the organ), some antique oak medallions (in the choir),
and several paintings, including an Entombment ascribed to Rubens.

The Chateau de Selles, on the banks of the Scheldt, at the N.W.
corner of the town, dates mainly from the 15th century. We may

74 Route 9. DOUAI. From Amiens

return hence to the Place auxBois by a street passing near the Porte
Notre-Dame, the finest of the town-gates, dating from the Spanish
period (17th cent). — The Public Library, with 35,000 vols, and
1224 MSS., occupies an old chapel in the Rue Gambetta, near the
Place aiix Bois (open on week-days, 2-4 and 6-8).

From Cambrai to Dodai, 18 M., railway in 50 min. (fares 3 fr. 25, 2 fr.
25, 1 fr. 50c.). Unimportant stations. From (8V2 M.) AuUgny-au-Bac a branch
runs to Somain (p. 78), via Aniche (p. 78). — 18 M. Bouai, see below.

From Cambrai to Bavaz (Dour), 31 V2 M., railway in IV2-2V3 brs.
(fares 5 fr. 70, 3 fr, 85, 2 fr. 50 c.) via Solesmes (12V2M.-, p. 106), Le Ques-
noy (23 M. , p. 99), and Bavay (31 V2 M. ; p. 82). — The' railway goes on
to (IIV2 M.) Dour^ in Belgium , via (41/2 M.) Roisin , where the Belgian
custom-house examination is made.

From Cambrai to Somain and Valenciennes, see p. 106 -, to Le Cateaii,
see p. 106; to Amiens via Marcoing and Bapaume, see pp. 73 and 21.

9. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes.

74 M. Railway to Arras, 38 M., in IVi-S hrs. (fares 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 60,
3 fr. 5c.); from Arras to Douai, l(j3I., in 25-55 min. (fares 3 fr,, 2 fr. 5,

1 fr. 35 c); from Douai to Valenciennes, 20 M., in V4-IV* ^^' (fares 3 fr, 70,

2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 65 c).

Amiens, see p. 25. The trains run in the direction of Paris as
far as (2'/2 M.) Longueau (p. 24), where they join the direct line
from Paris to Arras. Thence to (38 M.) Arras, see p. 19.

On leaving Arras our line passes the railway to Bethune and
Calais (B. 10) on the left, and descends the valley of the Scarpe. To
the left are the marshes of Fampoux, into which a train was pre-
cipitated in 1847. — 125 M. (from Paris via Creil) Roeux; 129 M.
Vitry , where Sigibert , King of Anstrasia, was assassinated in 575
by the emissaries of Fridigonda; 132 M. Corbehem. The towers of
Douai now come in sight; the tallest belongs to the Hotel de Ville
(p. 75).

135'/2M. Douai. — Hotels. *H6t. du Commerce, Rue St. Jacques 20,
R. from 2, dej. 3, D. 372 fr. ; Buffet-Hotel, at the station-, Cafic-Hotel,
outside the station. — Cafes in the Place d'Armes.

Cabs. Per drive 80 c. ; per hr. IV2 fr. for l-2per.«., 3 fr. for 3-4 pers. ;
double fare at night.

Douai, a town with 31,400 inhab., is situated on the canalized
channel of the Scarpe. It is an industrial centre of some importance.
The fortifications are now being demolished,

Douai is a town of great anti(iuity, having probably grown up origin-
ally round a Gallo-lloman fort. In the wars carried on at various times
by the French against the English, Flemish, Germans, and Spaniards the
town often suffered siege and capture. In 1479 , however, it successfully
resisted the attack of Louis XI, , whose discomliture is still celebrated
every July by the Fote de Gayant, at which the giant Gayant and his
family (made of wicker-work), clad in mediaeval costumes, perambulate
the town to the lively strains of the 'air de Gayant'. In 1529 the town
passed under the dominion of the Spaniards. In 1667 I.ouis XIV, captured
the town, and though the French were c.vpclled in 1710 by the Duke of
Marlborough and Prince Eugene, they made good their footing again in

1712, and their possession was confirmed by the treaty of ITtrecht in

1713. — Tlie Roman Catholic university founded liere in 1652 to counleract
the Protestantism of the Kolherlands had a brilliant but brief career. Ihe

lo Valenciennes. DOtJAT. 9. Route. 75

College of English Benedictines (Rue St, Benoit), founded in 1560 for the
education of English priests, still has about 100 students. In 1610 an Eng-
lish translation of the Old Testament for Roman Catholics was published
at Douai; and the English Roman Catholic version of the Scriptures, in-
cluding the New Testament translated at Eheims in 1582, is generally
known as the Douai or Douaij Bible. — Douai is the birthplace of Jean
de Bologne or de Douai (1524-1602), ihe sculptor, and of Jean Bellegambe
(d. ca. 1540), the painter, surnamed 'Maitre des Couleurs'.

The street leading to the W. from the station brings iis to the
handsome Place Carnot^ the principal promenade, near which is the
Muse'e (p. 76). Thence the Rue St. Jacques runs S.W. to the
Place d'Armes (see below).

The church of St. Pierre, to the right, halfway between the two
'Places', rebuilt in the 18th cent., is remarkable only for its huge
tower, dating from the 16th cent., and occupying the whole breadth
of the fagade. It contains seyeral paintings of the French school.

— Near this church , Rue du Clocher-St-Pierre 19 , is the Maison
des liemy, a handsome Renaissance house of the 17th century.

The church of Notre- Dawe., near the fortifications , to the S.E.,
reached directly by the street to the S. of St. Pierre, contains the
CQ\ehr3itQdi* Altar-piece of Anchin, painted in 1520 by J. Bellegambe
(see above). Visitors are admitted to the sacristy, where the paint-
ing hangs, before 12.30 and after 2 p.m.

The work consists of nine oaken panels, representing, on the outside,
Christ enthroned between the Madonna, the donor (who is presented by
his patron, St. Charlemagne), and some monks of Anchin , headed by
St. Benedict-, on the live interior panels the Trinity is seen surrounded by
members of the Church Triumphant (254 figures). — At the entrance to the
sacristy is a curious mystical representation of the Virgin, of the 15th century.

In the garden in front of the church is a bronze statue of Marce-
line Deshordes -Vaimore (1786-1859), the poetess, by Houssin, and
on the far side the Hospital (17th cent.), with a sculptured pediment
by Bra. — Farther on is the Porte de Valenciennes, dating from the
15th cent., whence we return by the Rue de Valenciennes to the
centre of the town and the Place d'Armes.

The *ri6TEL DE ViLLE, in this square, the most notable edifice
in the town, is a fine monument of Gothic architecture, partly of
the 15th century. Above it rises a five-storied Belfry, 130 ft. high,
the upper part of which is crenelated and flanked with turrets, and
surmounted by a spire with a lion bearing the banner of Flanders.
The interior court, the fine Gothic chapel, the Salle des Fetes, the
Salle de la Rotonde, and the Salon Blanc may be inspected.

The Rue de la Mairie leads hence to the Place Thiers, with the
monument to the Illustrations de Douai, or famous natives of Douai.

— No. 20, and several other houses in the Rue des Foulons, to the
left of the Place, are quaint specimens of mediaeval architecture.

On the other side of the Scarpe, beyond the Place Thiers, is the
Jardin des Plantes, a pleasant promenade, in which is a Mutee Com-
mercial (adm. Thurs. and Sun., 12 to 4 or 5). To the left of the
Jardin des Plantes is the church oi St. Jacques, the interesting altar-

76 Route 9. DOUAI From Amiens

piece of whicli represents a miracle of the year 1254. The street
almost opposite the church leads to the Palais de Justice, in a build-
ing formerly belonging to au abbey, and situated on the bank of the
Scarpe. The ancient hall of the 'Parlement de Flandre". which met
in Douai after 1709 (now occupied as an appeal-court), is adorned
wdth good paintings.

The *MrsKE. in the Rue Fortier, a street running from the
Scarpe to the Place Carnot, includes a valuable picture-gallery,
sculptures, and excellent ethnographical, zoological, and antiquarian
collections. It is open to the public on Sun. & Thurs., 11-4 or 5;
to visitors after 9 a.m. on other days for a fee. The exhibits are pro-
vided with explanatory labels.

Ground- Floor. — VESTiBrLE. Roman antiquities, sculptured fragments,
including capitals from Bavay (p. S2), etc.

SccLPTUEE Galleet, to itie left. Beside the windows : Busts, eight of
which are antique. 1st row opposite the windows: 877. Donatella {?),
Ecce Homo: 1059. School of Jean de Bologne (p. 75). Pissatore; 828. Lafo-
resterie, Eeverv; 1058. Attributed to Jean de Bologne, Pissatore; 6b9. David
d" Angers, Bust' of Merlin, of Douai (1754-183Si, the lawyer; 627, 625. Bra,
of Douai (1797-1863). Busts of Charle* X. and Jean de Bologne pother busts
by Bra farther on): 934. Jean de Bologne, Samson smiting the Philistines,
terracotta; 869. Laoust, of Douai. John the Baptist making his cross; 1073.
Jouffroy, General Merlin; 714. L. Perrin, Boy playing; no number, Fache,
General I'Heriiier (bronze bust); 682. Desprez, innocence (bronze); 819.
Carpeaux, Why born a slave? (terracotta). — At the end wall: 621. Bra,
Crucifixion (ca'st). — 2nd row. returning: 63'-"t. Bra, Model for the statue
of Gen. yegrier at Lille; &M. Blavier, of Douai. Bonaparte at the bridse of
Arcole ; 1632. Cabet, The year 1871 ; 957. Laoust, Boreas carrying off Oreithyia ;
667. Cordier, Water-nymph; Bra, 617. Aristodemus at the tomb of his
daughter. 6213. Ulysses in the isle of Calypso ; between these, no number.
£. Chretien, Spring; 816. Bronze reproduction of a Mercury by Jean de
Bologne. — 3rd row: Busts: 827. Franquerille, Jean de Bologne. * >ther
works by Jean de Bologne are represented by reduced copies in the glass
cases. — Continuation of Ground- Floor, see p.' 75. — The staircase at the
end of the Sculpture Gallery leads to the Picture Gallery on the —

First Floor. — Room 1 ! to the right : 351. Schopin . La«t moments of
the Cenci family; 50. Brascafsat, Landscape: 9S7. JJarec, Day after pay-
day; 77. Coro^ Landscape ; 148. frowtn^j/?. Street in Algeria ; Wii. Demont-
Breton. The fjimilv; ~i^\. Benner, Serenade at Capri; 750. /. 5rf^a/?, Fisher
girl; 760. De Conincl; Genevieve of Brabant; 749. £m. Breton, Winter-night
in Artois; 767. Gosse, Christ in the Pratorium. — 764. Frangais. Path
through the corn: 75S. Courhet, Reflection: 54. Bucqttet, Banks of the Meuse.
— In the centre : Hoiissin, Sketch of a monument to Dupleix fp. 106).

Room II. 1168. F. Mignard, Flora and her court; 204. Lagrenie the
Elder, Elizabeth, Empress of Russia (d. 1761); 747. P. da Cortona. Provid-
ence commanding the present and the future; 1100. Cagnacci, Children:
346. Sas.<oferrato, Madonna and Child; 122^2. Vasari, Mary Magdalen: 34.
P. da Cortona, Eleazar and Rebecca. — Giorgione, Madonna; 1140-1143.
Giordano. Mytholoy:ical subjects. — On the side to the right from the en-
trance: Deuilly, Orpheus in Hades; 115S. Lippi, Tobias and the Angel;
781. Bassaiio, Annunciation to the Shepherds; 776. Monnoyer, Flowers;
296. Bassano, St. Valentine baptizing St. Lucy; 416. Dominichifw (?),
Neptune and Auiphitrite ; 777. Panini, Landscape with ruins: 751. Bor-
done^ Venetian lady; 1C61. Caravajgio, Sam-on and Delilah; 122M232.
School of Vasari, Portions of an altar-piece; 1231. Leonardo da Vinci,
Jesus and St. John as children ; 323. Sch<)ol of Salrator Rosa, Martyrdom
of St. Sebastian; 1025. Crespi, St. .Jerome's dream: 1236. Domimc'ino,
Lucretia; 1077. Brou:ino, Portrait of a Florentine; 1215. Stnti di TUo, Angel ;

to Valenciennes. DOUAT. .9. Route. 77

149. Srhool of T. Gaddi, Adoration of the Magi-, 1086. P. da Cortona, Infant
Moses; 1104. Carpi., Marriage of St. Catharine; 1091. Botticelli., Holy
Family; 1080. School of Bronzino, Portrait of Marie de' Medicis. — 16.
Guercino, Death of St. Francis of Assisi -, 1023. Bronzino., Daughter of
Cosmo I.-, 258. School of Murillo, Ecstasy of St. Francis of Assisi; 376. Velaz-
quez (?), Portrait ; 136. Van Dyck, Pieta ; 320. Bibera, Mathematician ; 1099.
Cagnacci, Lxicretia. — 768. G7'euze{1)., Old man; 759. David, Mme. Tallien.
— 307. School of Primaiiccio, La Belle Paule (a young girl who presented
the keys of Toulouse to Francis I. on his solemn entry into that town). —
In thecentre: A. J. Allar, Sketch of a monument to Gambetta.

Room III. 227. Van Machelen, Madonna and Child ; 422. Unknown Artist,
Triptych made up of portions from different sources; 44. Bosch, Trials of
Job (grotesque); 283. Van Orletj, Madonna and Child: 18. Beeck, St. Jerome;
26. J. Bellegambe (?), Dead bishop lying in state. — 144. Franck the Younger,
Adoration of the Magi (copy of Buhens); 38i. Vinckhoons, Village fair; 31
(above), J. Bellegambe (f), St. Vaast performing a miracle before Lothair I. ;
332. Eubens (?), Calling of St. Matthew; 134. School of Van Di/ck, Prome-
theus; 1640. Berck-Heyde, Quay at Haarlem; 116, 115. Duchdtel, Portraits;
52. P. Brueghel the Elder, Village attacked by disbanded soldiers; 763. A.
van Everdingen, Torrent; 265. Van Noort, Adoration of the Magi; 192.
Huysmans, Landscape; 138. C. van Everdingen, Portrait; 1598. S. Franck,
Adoration of the Magi; 389. De Vos the Elder, Portrait; 25 (above). J. Belle-
gambe, Last Judgment. — 1167. Mvreelse, Portrait; 184. School of Holbein,
Luther; 362. Stevens, Margaret of Parma; 130. Van Dyck, Christ mourned
bv angels; 141. Flinck, Duke of Brunswick; 781. Rubens, Pan and Ceres;
237. Van der Mettlen, Louis XIV. ; 325. Bombouts, Portrait of a military engin-
eer; 244. Ant. More, Portrait; 8B. J. G. Cuyp , Rustic interior; 165. P. de
Molyn the Elder, Landscape; 11. D'Artois., Landscape; above, 200. After
Jordaens, The Kings. — 252. De Momper, Landscape; 197. Jordaens. Portrait ;
194. Janssens, St. Aubert removing the body of St. Vaast; 790. Teniers the
Elder, Sorcery; 331. Bubens, Vintage; 181. Van Helm ont. Village rejoicings;
189. D'Hondekoeter, Peacock attacked by a cock; 131. Van Dyck, St. Bene-
dict receiving SS. Placidus and Maurus at Subiaco ; 182. B. ran dei- Heist,
Portrait; 81. Cranach the Elder, Siren; 1639. Van Beest, Horse-fair; 1642.
Huysmans, Landscape; 243. Minderhout, Sea-piece; 312. Van Ravestein, Por-
trait; 16)1. Vei'beeck. Landscape; 748. Van Brekelenkamp, Family of Govaert
Flinck; 1052. Sal. Koninck, Arquebusier-officer ; 1620. Van Bredael, Land-
scape ; 183. School of Holbein ih? Younger, Sir Thomas Blore and John Fisher;
252. De Momper, Landscape; 84. De Grayer, Jesus and the Virgin interceding
for a sinner. — 162. Van der Goes, Madonna of the Abbaye St. Berlin ; 420.
Unknown Artist, Triptych ; 350. Schoen, Adoration of the Magi; 234. Marinus,
St. Jerome meditating on the Last Judgment ; 125. Van Orley, Crucifixion
of St. Peter; 792. Unknown Artist, Israelites gathering manna; 161. Van
der Goes, Madonna and Child with St. Anna; 30. Vaast Bellegambe^), A
Dominican. — In the centre: *23. /. Bellegambe the Elder (p. 75), Shiitters
of a triptych in honour of the Immaculate Conception (1526); 24. /. Belle-
gambei"^), 29. School of Bellegambe, Shutters of a triptych; 408. Eogei' van
der Weyden (picture painted on both sides), Virgin appearing to a Cistercian
monk and the Last Judgment.

Ground-Floor (continuation). — Rooms I-III, at the other end of the
sculpture-gallery, contain the large Ethnographical Collection, arranged geo-
graphically and provided with labels. — Room IV contains unimportant
paintings, drawings, and a few antiquities. — Room V also has paintings,
etc. — Room VI contains furniture, tomb-stones, pottery and faience,
church-plate, Roman antiquities, bronzes and pottery found at Bavay (p. 82),
weapons, wood-carvings, fans, lace, etc.

On the First Floor is the Public Library , with 80,000 vols, and
1800 MSS. (open on week-days, 9 to 12 and 2 to 4 or 5). The collection
of coins is also deposited here.

On the Second Floor is the Collection of Natural History, said to
be one of the largest in France.

The quarter of the town behind the Musee is to a large extent

78 Route 9. SOMAIN. T'\om Amiens

occupied by tlie Arsenal, one of the largest in France, "barracks, and
schools.

From Douai a branch-line runs to (271/2 M.) Tournai^ via (13 M.) Orchies
(p. 87) and (20 M.) Eumes, the first station in Belgium. Beyond (P/t M.)
Pont-de-la-Deiile the railway traverses the coal-field of L'Escarpelle, and
passes, on the right, the zinc-works of the Societe des Asturies. — Tournai,
see p. 97.

Another branch-line of 1( cal interest runs from Douai to (20'/2 M.)
Pont-a-Marcq via (IOV2 M.) Mons-en-Pevele or Puelle (Pevele, see p. 87),
where Philippe IV le Bel defeated the Flemish in 1305. A cavern on the
W. side of the hill is known as the Pas de Roland^ and according to tradi-
tion the slain of both armies were buried here.

From Douai to Lille^ see R. 11; to Cambrai (Paris), see R. 8.

On quitting Douai, the train runs for a short distance in the
direction of Arras, then turns to the left. To the right is the line
to Cambrai. — 138 M. Montigny. The modern Renaissance chateau,
seen among the trees to the left, belongs to M. Lambrecht. A branch-
line to the right leads to the important coal-mines of Aniche and to
Aubigny-au-Bac (see p. 74).

142 M. Somain ("i/df. Moreau), an industrial town and centre
of the local coal-trade, has a population of 6040. Railway to Cambrai
and Busigny, see p. 108.

From Somain to Pekuwelz via Anzix, 24 M., railway in D/4 hr.
(fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. b'5 c). This line runs through one of the
most important coal-districts in the N. of France. IKearly every station
has its coal-mine and miners' colony, which form the characteristic features
in the scenery. — G M. Denain (Hdt. Lecointe; de VEurope)^ a town with
19,900 inhab., at the junction of the Scheldt and the Selle^ was, before the
development of its trade by the discovery of coal in the neighbourhood,
a humble village, known only as the scene of a victory gained by Villars
over Prince Eugene in 1712. It now carries on considerable manufactures
of steel, sugar-candy, spirits, etc. A steam-tramway connects Denain
with Valenciennes. — 91/2 M. Hirin. — II1/4 M. St. ^Vaast, a large village
with coke-furnaces, and the headquarters of the Compagnie d'Anzin, a
large coal-mining society founded in 1716. — 12 M. Anzin (Hotel Sle. Barbe),
with 12,768 inhab., on the Scheldt, is practically a suburb of Valenciennes
(tramway to the Grande Place, 11/4 M.). Besides the works of the Com-
pagnie d'Anzin (see above), there are numerous foundries, workshops, and
glass-works in the town. In the public square is the Monument of Fontaine.,
inventor of the parachute now used in lowering the cages into the mines.
— At (14 M.) Brttai the line joins the railway to (IV2 3I-) Valenciennes,
and farther on it skirts the forests of Baismes (p. 79) and St. Amand
(p. 86). 17i/,> M. Fresnes ., where the first vein of coal in this district was
discovered, in 1720, is also a station on a line from (Si/.> M.) St. Amand
(p. 86) to (5V2 M.) Blanc-Misseron (p. 82). — 18'/- M. Conde-sur-1'Escaut
(Grand Cerf)., a fortified town with 4480 inhab., is situated at the con-
fluence of the Scheldt and the Hayne and on the canal from Conde to
Mons (14 M.). Condo, which gives name to the princes of Conde, claims
a very high antiquity. Louis XI. was repulsed here in 1477, but the town
was captured by Turenne in 1655, Prince Eugene in 1656, Louis XIV. in
1676, and the Austrians in 1793. Since the treaty of Nimwegen (1678) Conde
has belonged to France. In the Place Verte are the ancestral castle of
the princes of Conde, dating from 1410, and Ihe Church, with a curious
tower, dated 1608. Steam-tramways ply to Vieux-Conde and Valenciennes.
The road leaving Condo by the Porte de Tournai and traversing the wood
of the Hermitage leads to Bon-Secours (Hotel du Grand Logis) , a fa-
vourite summer-resort on a sandy eminence, belonging half to France,
half to Belgium. It is connected with Valenciennes by tramway. — 20 M.

to Valenciennes. VALENCIf:NNP]S. .9. Route. 79

Vieux-Cond^ is the last P'rench station. — 24 M. Piruwelz. the first Belgian
station, on the line from Tournai (p. 97) to Mons, see p. 107.

Another branch-line runs from Soniain to (5 M.) Marchiennes, a small
industrial town, and to (10 M.) Orchies (p. 87).

The next stations are (148 M.) Wallers and (1517-2 M.) Eaismes
(Clef d'Or), an industrial village, with 6634 inhahitants.

The Forest of Raismes^ like the forest of St. Amand (p. 86), affords
picturesque walks; e. g. to Notre Dame of Loques, La Fontaine, Suche-
mont, and the Chaus?ee Brunehaut. It may be conveniently reached from
the stations of Bruai (p. 78), Beuvrages (p. 86), Eaismes-Vicoigne (p. 86),
Wallers (see above), and St. Amand (p. 86), or by tramway.

The railway now curves to the right, joins the line to Lille (on
the left), crosses the Peruwelz line near Bruai (see p. 78), and
coalesces with the railway from Mons.

155 M. Valenciennes. —Hotels. Hot. du Commerce, Place desllots,
R., L., & A. 4-6, B. 11/4, dej. 2V..', D. 3, omn. V2 fr.; de Flandre, Rue de la
Halle 2; du Noro, Rue du Quesnay 66; Hotel-Restaukant Cognin, Place
d'Armes. — Cafes in the Place d'Armes.

Cabs. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 80 c, 3 pers. 1 fr. 20, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c;
per hr., I1/2, 2, or 21/2 fr. ; double fare at night (11-6; 10-7 in winter).

Steam Tramways. From the BTarche aux Legumes via the station,
to Anzin (p. 78) and SL A7nand (p. 86); to Benain (p. 78), Condi (p. 78),
and Bon-Secou7's (p. 78), with branch from Conde to Vieux-Cond6 (see above)
and Hergnies. — From the Rue dc Mons (p. 81) to QiddiTctin (p. 82) and
Roisin (Belgium, p. 74); fares 5 c. per kilometre.

Valenciennes^ a town with 29,9.00 inhab., and formerly strongly
fortified, is situated at the junction of the Scheldt and the Rhon-
delle. The manufacture of 'Valenciennes lace' has died out, but the
town contains important iron and other factories , and is the chief
sugar-market in the N. of France.

The origin of Valenciennes is ancient, and its name may possibly be
derived from that of Valentinian I., the Roman emperor. At tirst the
capital of a small independent principality, the town afterwards passed
to the counts of Hainault. It successfully resisted sieges by Margaret of
Hainault in 1254, by Louis XI. in 1477, by Turenne in 1G56, and by the
Allies in 1815; but it was taken by the Spaniards in the 17th cent., by
Louis XIV. in 1677, by the Allies in 1793, and by Scherer in 1794. Since
the treaty of Nimwegen in 1678 it has belonged to France. Valenciennes
is the birthplace of a large number of celebrated men, many of whom
are represented in medallions round the statue of Froissart (p. 81). Be-
sides the latter, Mme. d'Epinay, the authoress, Antoine, Louis, and Francois
Watteau, and Pujol, the painters, Lemaire and Carpeaux, the sculptors, and
Charles, Sire de Lannoy and viceroy of Naples, were natives of this town.

Immediately outside the railway-station is an attractive square,
on the former glacis of the fortifications, which were demolished in
1892. We turn to the right and enter the town by the Rue Ferrand,
passing theLycee, formerly a Jesuit college, and the Ecoledes Beaux
Arts, in which is a Museum of Natural History, especially rich in
minerals. Part of the old Jesuits' College is occupied by the Muni-
cipal Library, containing 25,000 vols, and 772 MSS. (open on week-
days, 10-1 & 5-8), and the small Musee Benezech (books, etc.).

The Place Carpeaux, a little farther on, is embellished with a
bronze statue, by Carpeaux, of Antoine Watteau (1684-1721), the
painter. The four figures surrounding it represent Italian copiedy.

80 Route 9. VALENCIENNES.

— In the same square rises the church of St. Gery, a Gothic edifice
partly dating from the 13th cent., though the elegant tower is
modern. The fine wood-carvings in the choir (partly 16-17th cent.)
illustrate the life of St. Norbert, the founder of the Prseraonstra-
tenslan order. In a straight line from this point is the handsome
Place (TArmes., flanked on one side by houses of a uniform height
and by some ancient timber dwellings, dating from the period of
the Spanish occupation (17th cent.). — The *H6tel de VUle, in this
Place, is the most interesting building in Valenciennes. It dates
from the 17th cent., with the exception of the imposing facade,
which was rebuilt in 1867-68. The latter consists of a row of Doric
columns supporting a similar row of the Ionic order, above which
are Caryatides bearing an open gallery, a pediment with sculptures
by Carpeaux representing the Defence of Valenciennes, and a cam-
panile of two stories. The second floor is devoted to a Musee of
Painting and Sculpture, with one of the most extensive collections
in France of works of the Flemish School (open to the public on
Thurs. & Sun., and on other days on application, 10-12 & 2-4;
entrance by the first archway).

EooM I. Drawings, engravings, Flemish tapestry (16tli cent.), etc.

Room II. Sculpture. Biolle (of Valenciennes), 352. Colossal group to the
memory of French soldiers killed in battle (the model of the mi nument at
Cambrai, p. 73)-, 350. Temptation in the Wilderness (bas-relief)-, no number,
Truffet, Shepherd overcoming a mad dog-, 574. L. Paget, Beheading of St.
Denis; 321. Carlier , Gilliat (from Victor Hugo's 'Toilers of the Sea'),
cast; 360. /.emwjre (of Valenciennes), Girl and butterfly (marble). — Paint-
ings: 71. Lov. di (7/fdi, Madonna; i'JS. Dan. da Volterra, Dead Christ; 557.
Flemish School of the 15th cent., Adoration of the Child; 562. German School
of the 16th cent., Ecce Homo; Flemish School of the 16th cent., 559. Death
of the Virgin, 560. Adoration of the Magi; 63. After Bassano, Jean de
F.ologne (p. 75).

Room III. Sculptures, paintings, etc. 27. Carpeaux, Model of the statue
of Ugoliuo in the Tuileries garden. — Paintings: 231. Steuben, Peter the
Great when a child rescued bv his mother from the Strelitz insurgents;
94. Glaize, St. Eli/.abeth of Hungary. To the right, 190. Abel de Pujol,
Danaids; 121, 122. Quent. de Latoiir, Portraits in crayon (covered).

Room IV. Front wall, 128. Jules Leonard, Physician of the poor; 102.
Harpigu'es (of Ynlendenncs), Sauve qui peut; 220. Schneiz, Monk and pil-
grim; 218. Sain, Marriage-feast. — In the centre: 576. Iliolk, Arion (bronze).

Room V, L. J. Watieau, 259-262. Morning, Noon, Evening, Niiiht,
263. Dismissal; 40. Callet, Lonis XYl.; 25S. Ant. Watteau , Antoine Pater,
sculptor of Valenciennes; 242. Le Valentin, Tavern-concert; 127. Louis
Lenain or J. Miel, Card-players; /. B. Pa<er (of Valenciennes), 525. Recrea-
tion in the country, 169. Dove's nest; 051. Ant. Waiteau, Scene in a park;
284. Unknown Artist, Potrait of Louis XIV^; 52i. Pater. Open-;'ir concert.

— Between the windows: 326. Crauk, Elegy (marble). — In the centre:
Hiolle, Narcissus (marble).

Room VI. No 109. J. vanHachtenburg, Attack on a convoy; 84. 'Hell-fire''
Brueghel, Toil devoured by Usury, and the I'surer devoured by the Devil;
9,1. Amb. Franck. Animals entering the ark; 200. Roland (Saverii), Earthly
Paradise; 640. Taltegrain, Storm; *255. M. de Vos, Adoration of the Magi ;
160. Van Noort, Dead Christ in the lap of the Virgin; 565. Flemish School
of the 17th cent.. Death; m4. Jordaens, Twelfth Night; 498. Van Bolen,
Rape of Enropa; 60. P. da Cortona. Hcrodias; *222. Seghers . St. Eloi
(Eligius) at the feet of the Virgin; 155 ^'eefs the Younger, Church-interior;
246. Vinckboons, Large forest-acene; 5, 6. Van Aelst, Still -life; 225. Van

VALENCIENNES. 9. Route. 81

SUnffeland.,Kiichen-scene-, US. De Pereja (pupil of Velazquez), Bohemians',
154. Neeffs the Yonnger., Churcli-interior; 205. Ro(tenha7nmer, Islobe.

Room VII. No. 139. Van Mieris., Pan and Syrinx ^ 35. 'Hell-Jire'' Brueghel.,
Christ preaching; 2. Al.Adriaenssens., Fish-merchant; 97. Van Goijen^'LiiTiA-
scape; 41. Calvaert, Pieta; 4. Van Aelst, Still-life; 84. Fictoor (?), Two
little beggars ; 149. Moucheron , Landscape ; 56. Cornelissen , Charity ; 275.
Unknown Artist., Christ descended from the Cross; 42. Alonso Cano, Ma-
donna; 568. Unknown Artist ^ Madonna and Child with St. John; 296. Un-
known Artist, A family of ship-owners; 43. Carre%o de Miranda, Don
Carlos, afterwards Charles II. of Spain (d. 1700J ; 110. limjsmans, Landscape;
294. Italian School of the 16th cent., Altar-piece; 8. Jacques d''Arthois,
Landscape; 555. Wynants, Landscape; 111. Janssens, Party. — The glass
cases contain antiquities, lace, small carvings, etc.

Room VIII. No. 36. 'VelveP Brueghel, Landscape; 209. Buhens, Ecstasy
of St. Francis of Assisi; 243. Van de Velde, Sea-piece; 523. Van Oos<, Ador-
ation of the Shepherds: 184. Pourbvs the Younger,- Marie de Medicis; 33.
Brouwer , Flemish tavern-scene; 206. RotI enhammer , Madonna and Child,
with St. John and angels, on copper (reduced copy after Andrea del
Sarto) •, 183. Pourbus the Younger , Portraits of children ; 105. De Heem,
Still-life; 269. Ph. Wonwerman, Hunters setting out; 229. Van Son, Still-
life; *67. De Grayer, Our Lady of the Rosary; 182. Povrbus the Younger,
Portrait; 217. Saftleven, Landscape; 17. Van Baelen, 3Iercury regarding
Herse and Aglaura on their way to the temple of Minerva ; 86. Fr. Franck
the Elder, Charles V. assuming the monastic dress; 3. Van Aelst, Still-life;
234. 7'eniers the Younger, Interior of a grotto ; *80. Van Dyck, Martyrdom
of St. James and his converted accuser; Rubens, **210, 211, 212, 213 (on the
back), St. Stephen's speech, Stoning of Stephen, Entombment of the saint,
Annunciation, an admirable triptych, 13-14 ft. high, painted in 1623 for the
abbey of St. Amand (p. 86); 480, Ooltsius (1), .Judgment of Paris; 116. Jor-
daens, Judgment of Midas: *118. G. Cesari (Cavaliere d^Arpino), Diana and
Actaon; 140. Morcelse, Portrait: 254. M. de Vos, Circumcision; 100. Guido
Reniil), St. Peter's repentance; *214. Rubens, Descent from the Cross; 505.
Cuyp, Raising of Lazarus; "137. Marinvs de Romersvaele , Banker and his
wife; 539. Snyders, Poultry, g;ime, fish, and fruit; 172. Martin Pepyn (an
Antwerp artist whose works are exceedingly scarce; 1575-1616), St. Bernard
triumphing over the schismatic "William of Aquitaine, in presenting the
Host to him; 226. <S/m«e)-s, Woodland landscape; 271. Zuccavelli, Cascades
at Tivoli; 28. Bosch, Temptation of St. Antony; 227. Snayers, Landscape;
196. Adr. van Utrecht, Christ at Bethany; 69. De Grayer, St. Peter's repent-
ance; 230. Soolemaker, Cattle-market; 207. Tintoretto, Pieta; 44. Carpeaux,
3Iode] of the statue of Ant. Watteau (p. 7i'). — 556. Zurbaran, Madonna;
253. P. de Vos, Boar-hunt; 68. De Grayer, Repentant Magdalen. — In the
centre, 135. Marmion (of Valenciennes; d. 1489), Panel of an ex voto paint-
ing; 572. Crauk, Youth and Love. Busts and Sevres vases.

Room IX, on the other side of the sculpture-gallery. No. 124. Lehoux,
Bellerophon, conqueror of the Chimfera; 509. Harpignies, The valley of
the Aumance; 410. Eug. Delacroix, Fall of the Titans; 510. Benner, St.
Jerome; 201. Roll, Strike of miners; 103. Harpignies, The old nut-tree.
— Sculptures by Hiolle and Carpeaux, etc.

Room X contains farther works by Garpeaux, chiefly models.

The Rue St. Gery leads from the N.E. corner of the Place d'Armes
to the Place Froissart, which is emhellishedwith a fine marhle Statue
of Jean Froissart, the illustrious chronicler fd. about 1410), by Le-
maire. The statue is surrounded with 10 bronze medallions of
eminent natives of the town (inscriptions).

The large Hospital, on the other bank of the Scheldt, was built in the
18th cent, from funds raised by a tax of two 'liards' (about Vz^O on every
pot of beer drunk in Hainault.

A little to the E. of the Place Froissart is the Rue de Mons, the

Baedeker's Northern France. Srd Edit. 6

82 Route 10. CASSEL.

second turning to the right from which leads to the Place Verte,
whence the principal church of the town, Notre-Dame-du-Saint-
Cordon, is visible. This interesting modern edifice, built in the
style of the 13th cent, is richly decorated and has good stained-
glass windows by Leveque. — The street leading to the N.W. (to
the left) from the facade (the church lies from N.E. to S.W.) de-
bouches in the Place d'Armes.

Pleasant Walks and Excursions may be made in tlie neighbourhood
of Valenciennes, with the aid of the various tramways mentioned at p. 79.
Good walkers may go as far as Anzin, Raismes, or Denain; while the
Forest of Raismes (p. 79), St. Amand (p. 86), and Sebourg (see below) are
more easily reached. Visitors to the (3 M.) Baths of St. Amand take the
tramway to the Place de Raismes, descend the Rue du Blarais, and cross
the forest. They may 5^0 on thence to Notre-Dame-d' Amour , on the road
from Valenciennes to St. Amand. — The Colonne Dampierre^ on the road
to Paris, to the S.W. of Valenciennes, commemorates the general of that
name, killed in 1793.

From Valenciennes to Madbedge, 23V2 M., railway in 11/4 hr. (fares
4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 85 c). About 11/4 M. to the N.E. of &l-i. M.) Curgies is
Sebourg, the church of which, dating from the 13th cent., contains the tomb
of St. Druon. The modern chateau is surrounded with ponds and fine elms.
The chateau of Eth., a little distance to the S.E., has a fine park, watered by
the Annelle. Fine view of the road, as far as Mont St. Aubert, near Tournai.
From this point we may reach the station of St. Waast (see below) via
Belligiiies, which also has a park and marble -quarries. The district is
picturesque. — 12 M. St -Waast-la- Valine. — 161/2 M. Bavay (Buffet-Hdtel),
though it now has only 1960 inhab., was a flourishing town under the Ro-
mans, who called it Bagacum or Bavacum. Destroyed during the invasions
of the barbarians, it never recovered its prosperity, while it was pillaged,
burned several times, and laid waste in the 15-17th centuries. A few
Roman remains have been found. Eavacum stood at the intersection of
eight Roman roads, afterwards called, like many other thoroughfares in
the N., 'Brunhilda's Roads'. Seven of these still remain and are named
on a small pyramid, which replaces the ancient milestone at their junction.
Railway to Cambrai via Le Quesnoy, see p. 74. — 231/2 M. Maubeuge., see p. 107.

From Valenciennes to Mons (Brussels), 2OV2 M., railway in i-i^/t hr.
(fares 3fr. 5, 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 25 c.). The train soon diverges to the E. from
the Douai line. — 41/2 M. Onnaing. 71/2 M. Blanc- Misseron is the last
French station. Branch to St. Amand, see p. 87. At (81/2 M.) Quidvrain
(Buffet) the Belgim customs-examination is made. Six unimportant stations
are passed. — 151/2 M. Jemmapes. — 2O1/2 M. Mens, see p. l07.

From Valenciennes to Laon, see p. 110; to Aulnoi/e, etc., see p. 1013;
to Lille see p. 86.

10. From Arras (Paris) to Dunkirk.

70 M. Railway in 2-8^4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 85, 8 fr. 60, 5 fr. 60 c.).

From Arras to (451/2 M.) Hazebrouck , see pp. 19, IS. The
railway to Dunkirk continues to run towards the N.W., leaving the
Calais line on the left.

51 M. Cassel (Hotel du Sauvage), a town with 3662 inhab.,
deriving its name from the 'Castellum Morinornm', which occupied
the site in Roman times, is situated on the Mont Cassel (515 ft.),
an abrupt hill, 2 M. from the station by road or 1 M. by the direct
footpath. Its commanding and strong position made it frequently
the object of siege and capture, before it was finally annexed to

DUNKIRK. 10. Route. 83

France by the treaty of Nimwegen in 1678. Cassel has given name
to three important battles : in 1071 Philip I. of France was defeated
here by Robert, Count of Holland; in 1328 Philip VI. of Valois
crushed the Flemish communes that had revolted against Louis I.
of Nevers, their count; and in 1677 the Duke of Orleans, brother
of Louis XIV., defeated William of Nassau, Prince of Orange. General
Vandamme (1771-1830) was born at Cassel. — The town presents
almost no points of interest, though its numerous windmills give it
a striking appearance from a distance. The terrace of the ancient
chateau commands a wide view, including, it is said, 32 towns
and 100 villages. The old Hotel de Ville contains a small Musee.

65 M. Bergues (Tete d'Or), a fortified town with 5258 inhab.,
at the junction of three canals. It has frequently been captured by
the French, English, Spanish, and Dutch, but successfully resisted
the attack of the English in 1793. The church of St. Martin, in
the Gothic style, rebuilt in the 17th cent., with a lofty tower, con-
tains several interesting paintings and a noteworthy high-altar. The
Belfry is a Gothic brick erection of the 16th century. The Hotel de
Ville, in the Spanish style of the 17th cent., contains a small but
interesting collection of paintings, chiefly collected from the con-
vents of the town (comprising single examples of Van Dyck, Ribera,
Matsys, and Rubens) ; adm. on application to the custodian.

From Bergues a branch-railway runs to (81/2 M.) Hondschoote (HSt.
du Sauvage), a small town with 3315 inhab. (formerly 20,000), 8M. to theE.
A monument erected in the public square in 1889 commemorates the victory
gained by the French in 1793 over the British and their allies, which com-
pelled the latter to raise the siege of Dunkirk.

Beyond Bergues our line joins those to Furnes and Calais.

70 M. Dunkirk, Fr. Dunkerque. — Hotels. Hotel dd Chapeau
Rouge, Rue St. Sebastien 5, R. & A. from 3 fr. ; Grand Hotel, Hotel
DE Flandre, Rue Alexandre HI 18 and 16; Hotel de la Paix, corner of
Rue David d'Angers and Rue Alexandre III, second class, but scarcely
less expensive; Hotel du xiv^ SifiCLE, near the station.

Cafes and Restaurants, in the Place Jean-Bart; in the Rue Alexan-
dre III; in the Rue du Quai, near the Bassin du Commerce; and at the
station.

Gabs. Per drive in the town 1^/4 fr.; to the sea-baths I1/2 fr.-, per hour 2 fr.

Tramway from the station to Malo-les-Bains (p. 86), via the Place Jean-
Bart (10 c), the harbour (15 c), etc. ; 30 c. all the way.

Steamers. To London, twice weekly, at hours varying according to
the tide (comp. the Indicateur Chaix);, also to Hull, Leith, and Goole.

British Consul, Edward Taylor, Esq. — United States Consular Agent,
Benjamin Morel, Esq.

English Church, Place de la Prison ; Chaplain, Rev. W. J. Drought, M. A.

Dunkirk, with 39,700 inhab., is the fourth commercial port in
France and a fortress of the first class. Its strength is largely due to its
position in the Watteringues, a district drained by means of canals
and dykes, which in times of danger may be completely laid under
water. The great majority of the inhabitants of this district are
Flemings and speak little or no French. There is a small English
colony at Dunkirk, which is annually re-inforcedby summer-visitors.

6*

84 Route 10. DUNKIRK.

The name Dunkirk, the 'church in the dunes'', appears first ahout the
9th or 10th cent., when it is applied to the community formed of the two
hamlets of Si. Gilles and St. Eloi. The town belonged at first to the
counts of Flanders, hut from the close of the 13th cent, its possession was
frequently disputed by the French kings. In 1646 the Great Conde besieged
and took Dunkirk on behalf of Louis XIV., who was then a minor, but
in 1652 the Spaniards again made themselves masters of the town. Six
years later Marshal Turenne defeated the Spaniards, on whose side Conde
now fought, in the great Battle of the Dunes, and Dunkirk was placed in
the hands of Cromwell, in return for the services of 8000 of his Ironsides,
who had largely contributed to the victory. A small body of English
Royalists fought on the other side. The English fortified the port and
built a citadel, but in 1662 Charles II. sold this important position to
Louis XIV. for the sum of 5,000,000 livres. In the subsequent wars
against England the privateers of Dunkirk wrought great havoc among the
enemy's shipping, and at the peace of Utrecht in 1713' the English insisted
on the destruction of the harbour; a similar stipulation was also made at
the peace of Paris in 1763. In 1793 Dunkirk offered a gallant resistance to
the English, and was finally relieved by the victory at Hondschoote (p. 83).

Thougli clean and well-built, Dunkirk is comparatively uninter-
esting. For many visitors the Harbour is the principal object of at-
traction. From the Bassin h fiot du Commerce the Quai des Hol-
landais leads to the S. to the Arriere-Port, on the N.W. side of
which lies the Bassin de la Marine. On the S.E. side is the Pare de
la Marine, a favourite promenade. Thence the street runs to the S.,
towards the railway-station, turning to the W. a little farther on and
crossing a canal. To the N.E. of the Bassin du Commerce extends
the outer harbour, with its spacious basins and do(5ks, several of
which have been completed only since the recent expansion of the
fortifications. The chief trade of Dunkirk is in wood, grain, and wool.

Near the S.E. angle of the Bassin du Commerce rises the church
of St. John the Baptist (18th cent.), in which are a Christ by Van
Dyck and a Holy Family by Guido Reni. — The church of St. Eloi, a
little to the E., a Gothic edifice of the 16th cent, has double aisles,
but the whole nave has been unduly shortened by the removal of
the first bays. The, W. portal is of recent construction. The Belfry,
a massive square tower of brick, 295 ft. high, is now separated from
the church by the Rue de I'Eglise.

The Place Jean-Bart, to the S. of the church, occupies the
centre of the town. It is embellished with a bronze statue, by David
d'Angers, of Jean Bart (1651-1702), the famous sailor and privateer
of Dunkirk. The Rue des Vieux-Quartiers, and then the Rue Roger,
the third turning on the right, lead hence to a square with the Theatre
and the Muse'e.

The Musee, on the site of a former convent, the garden of which
is now a promenade, is open to the public daily, except Frid., 12-5,
from June 1st to Sept. 30th, and on Sun. andThurs., 12-4, during
the rest of the year. Strangers may obtain access at other times.

Room I. Models of ships, etc. — Room II, to the right. Sledals, weapons,
ethnographic and other collections. At the 4th window, to the right, Head
of James II. of England, in wax, with the cap he wore on his death-bed.
— Room III. Natural history collection.

The next three rooms contain Paintings. — Room IV. To the right.

DUNKIRK. 10. Route. 85

123. Glaize, Festival in honour of Theseus; 318. De Taverne, Jean Bart
landing at Dunkirk after the battle of Texel in 1694; Landscapes by Pelouze
(245) and others; 857. Weerts^ The swoon; 262. Ranvier, Echo; 178. Le Roux,
The mysterious stone of Pompeii; 7. Baadei\ Washington bidding farewell
to his mother after his election as President of the United States ; 149.
Jadin, Boar-hunt. — In the centre, 42. Tony Noel, Romeo and Juliet (marble).

Room V. To the right, 8. Bakhuysen{1), Sea-piece; 241. Fatel, Italian
landscape; 307. Snai/ers, Cavaliers proceeding to battle. — 230. Van der
Neer., Moonlight; 186. Luini, Madonna on the rocks; 12. Baroccio, Adoration
of the Shepherds ; 9. Van Balen, Holy Family ; 133. Guardi, View in Venice ;
256. Pynacker., Study of trees; 218. Minderhout , Harbour of the Orient; 333.
Van Thulden (after Rubens)., Annunciation ; 115. Franck the Elder, Herod and
Herodias receiving the head of John the Baptist; 30. Brouwer or Van Heems-
kerck the Elder, Tavern; 291. Rubens, Assumption, sketch for the painting
at Vienna; 99. Donvi (?), Head of a girl; 237. Palamedes, Happy meeting; 22.
Bloemaert, View in Italy; 29G. /. van Ruisdael, Landscape; 225. Murillo^
Madonna and Child. — 2. Albano, Venus causing the anemone to spring
from the blood of Adonis; 187. Maratta, Infant Christ distributing rosaries ;
309. Snayers, Attack on a convoy; 224. Moucheron the Elder, Return from
the hunt; 3. Albano, Death of Adonis; 212. Milbourne, Interior of Bonn
minster. — 35. Brueghel the Elder, Village wedding; 284. Zorg , Farm
interior; 23. Boucher, Venus and Vulcan; 145. Van Hoeck, Snow; 275. /. de
Reyn, Comte d'Estrades; 347. A. Vermeulen, View of Dort; 253. Bassano
and Van Kessel, Lazarus and Dives; 59. Conca , Madonna appearing to St.
Joseph Calasans; 342. Verkolie, Portrait of the artisfs daughter; 324.
Tenths the Younger, St. Antony of Padua making fish speak. — 346. J. Vernet,
Sea-piece; 220. Molenaer, Rustic scene; 311. Solimena, Assumption; 240.
Fatel the Elder View in Italy; 219. Mierevelt, Portrait; 3i5. /. Vernet,
Shipwreck; 228. P. Neeffs, Church-interior; 308. Snayers, Cavalry skirmish.
— Sculptures: 30. Filon, Andi-omeda; 17. L. Durand, Mercury (cast); 15.
Coclis, Shipwreck (cast); 44. Houdoni^!), Bust of Voltaire; 13. Canova, Bust
of Napoleon I., etc.

Room VI. To the right, 147. Holbein the Younger, Portrait of Luther
or Melanchthon; 101. Diirerdi), St. Jerome; 368. Wildens, Return from the
hunt; 190. MazzuoU, Scourging of Christ. — 238. Patel, Landscape; 192.
Van der Afeulen, Cavalry-engagement; 386. Italian School, Bearing of the
Cross; 334. Le Valentin, Guitar-player; 239. Patel, Landscape; 37U. French
School of the 17th cent., Bacchantes; 1!)6. Mignard , Duke of Burgundy,
grandson of Louis XIV. ;■ J. de Reyn, 264, 26tJ. Portraits, 267-269. St. Alexander
delivered by angels, triptych with portraits of the donors; 278. Rigaud,
Portrait of a steward; 157. Jouvenet, Head of an old man. — 396. Flemish
School of the 16th cent., Portrait; 117. /. Fyt, Still-life; 254. Fr. Pourbus,
Martyrdom of St. George, a triptych, pronounced by Michiels the artist's
masterpiece; 118. Fyt., Still-life; 395. Flemish School of the 16th cent., Por-
ti-ait; 4l2. Flemish School, St. Julian. — • 150. Abr. Janssens, Woman refusing
to sacrifice to idols ; 358. Wildens, Return from the hunt ; 234. J. van Oost
the Elder, Card-players ; 156. /. Jordaens, Adoration of the Magi ; 319.
Teniers the Elder, Temptation of St. Antony; 289. Rubens, Marriage of the
Virgin; Teniers the Younger, 320. Villagers, 323. Mandolin-player; 290.
Rubens, Reconciliation of Jacob and Esau; 258. E. Quellinil), Holy Family;
37. ''Velvet' Brueghel with Van Hoeck or Rubens, The Holy Women at the
Tomb (after Rubens); 260. Er. Quellin, St. Helena discovering the true
Cross; 327. Tilburg , Topers; 138. Van Helmont, Toper; 34. Brueghel the
Elder, Fires of St. John ; 356. Af.de Vos, Portrait; 331. Van Thulden, Caritas
Romana ; 362. E. de Witte, Samuel presenting the captive king of the Amale-
kites to Saul ; 126. Van Goyen, Landscape. — 285. Salvator Rosa, Cavalry
skirmish ; 122. School of Giotto, Madonna and Child ; 277. Ribera, St. Peter ;
10. Giorgione, Monk; 336. Titian, Raphael and his master Perugino; 43.
Gigoli, Judith and Holofernes. — Sculptures: i. Allouard, Remember (cast);
14. Chartrousse, Repentant Magdalen; 34. Houssin, Phaeton (cast); 39. R^-
cipon, Return of the Prodigal Son (high relief).

On the first floor are an Extra Room for paintings for which there

86 Route 11. ST. AMAND.

is no room downstairs, and the Municipal Library, witli upwards of
30,000 vols, and 70 MSS. (adm. daily, except Sat., 10-1 and 6-10, on
Sun. 10-12).

The Rue des Vieux-Remparts leads from the Place du Theatre
towards Malo-les-Bains (see below), and near the Petite Chapelle^ a
pilgrim-resort, is crossed by the tramway (see below).

A tramway (p. 83) runs to tlie E. from Dunkirk to Malo-les-Bains
{Casino Hotel, on the beach, dej. 3V2, D. 4 fr. ; H. de la Renaissance, in the
village^ H. du Kursaal, in the square, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr.), a sea-bathing resort
with a sandy beach and numerous chalets to let. There are two bathing
establishments {Bains du Kursaal and Bains du Gap Nord; bath incl. co.«tume

1 fr.).

Fkom Dunkirk to Fuenes (Ghent, etc.), 16 M,, railway in 1 hr. (fares

2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 20 c). This line diverges to the left from that to
Hazebrouck (p. 17), crosses several canals, and skirts the dunes. — 8V2 M.
Ohyvelde is the last French station; and at (13 M.) Adinkerke the Belgian
customs-examination is made. — 16 M. Fumes (Hot. de la Noble-Rose),
see Baedeker^s Belgium and Holland.

Railway from Dunkirk to Gravelines and Calais, see p. 6.

11. From Douai (Paris) and Valenciennes to Lille and
Courtrai.

I. From Douai to Lille.

20 M. Railway i^n V2-IV4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr, 25, 1 fr. 50 c).

Douai, see p. 74. — The line, running to the N., crosses the
Canal de la Scarpe. — Beyond (1^/4 M.) Pont-de-la-Deule, whence
branch-lines run to Orchies (p. 87) and to Pont-a-Marcq (p. 78),
important coal-mines are passed and the Canal de la Deule is crossed.
47.2 M. Leforest. Farther on, to the left, a branch diverges to Lens
(p. 18). From (6 M.) Libercourt a branch-line runs to Lens (p. 18),
either direct or via (3 M.) Carvin (p. 18). Passenp-ers for Lille
sometimes change carriages here. — From (13 M.) Seclin (Hot. des
Voyageurs), an industrial town with 6245 inhab., branch-lines run
to (91/2 M.) Templeuve (p. 87) and to (8 M.) Don-Sainghin (p. 97).
— I5V2 M. Wattignies, not to be confounded with Wattignies-la-
Victoire (p. 107). — 20 M. Lille, see p. 88.

II. From Valenciennes to Lille.

291/2 M. Railway in IV2-2V4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 35 c).

Valenciennes, see p. 79. The line runs at first in the direc-
tion of the Douai and Paris railway, but soon diverges to the right,
traversing the forests of Raismes (p. 79) and St. Amand, and the
coal-field of Vicoigne. 2^/2 M. Beuvrages; 3'/2^1- Raismes- Vicoigne.

71/2 M. St. Amand (Mouton Blanc), a town with 13,038 inhab.,
situated V2 M. to the N. of the station, at the confluence of the
Scarpe and the Elnon, originally grew up around an abbey founded
in the 7th cent, by St. Amand. Nothing now remains of the abbey,
except its Portal with two octagonal pavilions (1632-33) partly in-
corporated with the Hotel de Ville, and the Facade of the Church.
The latter, a bold construction, consisting of a tower and two tur-

OECHIES. 11. Route. 87

rets, was designedly Nic. du Bois, who was abbot of St. Amand'in
1621-73. The tower contains a peal of bells, and commands a fine
view. The Dwelling of the Receveur de tAhhaye., Rue de Tournai 31,
should also be visited. — Steam-tramway to Valenciennes (p. 79).

About 2 M. to the S.E. (1/4 br. from Fontaine-Bouillon ; see below) are
the Baths of St. Amand {Hdtel de V Etablissement, pens. 6-12 fr.), with sul-
phurous water and mud baths , efficacious in cases of rheumatism and
diseases of the joints (mud-bath 3, sulphur bath 2 fr. ; subscription for
drinking the waters 5 fr.). Though known to the Eomans, these mineral
springs were entirely neglected in the middle ages and until the latter half
of the 17th century. From the baths a park stretches to the Forests of
St. Amand and Raismes (p. 79).

A branch -railway runs from St. Amand to (14 M.) Blanc- Misseron
(p. 82), via (3 M.) Fontaine-Bouillon, ^jt M. from the Baths of St. Amand
(see above), and (81/2M.) Fresnes, also a station on the line to Peruwelz (p. 18).

Another branch-railway runs to (20'/2 M.) ZTeWemmes (p. 97) via Cysoing
(see below), Bouvines, and Sainghin-en- Milantois (see below).

From St. Amand to Tournai, 16 M., railway in 50 min. (fares 2 fr. 45,
1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 15 c). — 5 M. Maulde- Mortag ne is the frontier-station. To
the right is the fort of Maulde. The train crosses the site of the camp
where Dumouriez imprisoned the messengers of the Convention sent to
arrest him in 1793, and whence he and the Due d'Orleans went over to
the enemy. — 71/2 M. Bleharies is the first Belgian station. 12 M. Antoing,
with an old Gothic chateau. — 16 M. Tournai, see p. 97.

The district of La Pevele ('Pabula'), which we now traverse, is
one of the most fertile in the De'partement du Nord. — 11 M. Rosult,
to the left of which is the Chateau du Loir., dating from the IStli
century. 13'/2 M. Landas.

At (151/2 M.) Orchies (Hot. de la Gare), a commercial and
manufacturing town with 4137 inhab., we join the railway from
Douai to Tournai (p. 78). Branch to Somain, see p. 79.

Another branch, I81/2M. long, leads to Tourcoing (p. 88), passing Cysoing,
(l^l-2 M.) Bouvines, celebrated for the victory gained there by Philip Augustus
over the Emperor Otho IV. in 1214, (12 M.) Ascq, also a station on the
line from Lille to Tournai (p. 97), Lannoy, an ancient but decayed industrial
town, and Roubaix-Wattrelos (see below and p. 88).

I81/2 M- Nomain. About 372 M. to the left lies Mons-en-Peoele
(p. 78). — 2072 M. Templeuve. 23 M. Fretin, to the right of which
is the fort of SaingJiin-en- Melantois (see above). — We soon join
the line from Douai (p. 86). — 291/2 M. Lille (see p. 88).

III. From Lille to Courtrai.

191/2 M. Railway in 1-2 hrs. (fares 2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 35 c). —
To Ostend, 54 V2 M., in 2V3-3V4 hrs. (about 8, 6, and 4 fr.). — From Paris to
Ostend by this route, 20S M., in 7-12 hrs. (35 fr. 70, 24 fr. 70, 16 fr. 26 c.) ; via
Maubeuge and Brussels (R. 15), 245 M., in 9-143/4 hrs. (41 fr. 65, 29 fr. 35,
19 fr. 40 c). — Besides the ordinary trains on this line there are ''Trains-
Tramways'', with a limited number of seats and carrying no luggage, which
ply to a number of places between Lille and Tourcoing : e.g. Fives-
St-Maurice, Pont-du-Lion-d''Or , Rougebarre-la-Pilatiere, Wasquehal; Croix-
Wasquehal, VAllumette, Pont-des-Arts ; Roubaix, Boulevard-d' Balluin , La
Tossie, and Tourcoing. — Tramway from Lille to Roubaix, see p. 89.

Beyond the fortifications of Lille the line to Courtrai runs on
towards the N.E. and crosses the Canal de Roubaix. — 31/2 M.

88 Route 11. ROUBAIX.

Croix - Wasquehal. In the distance to the right rises the tallest
lactory-chimney in France (345 ft.).

5 M. Roubaix. — Hotels. Ferraille, Rue Nain, near the Place de
la Mairie^ de France, Place de la Mairie; Grand Cerf, Rue du College.
— Cabs, 11/4 fr. per drive, 1^4 or IV4 fr. per hour. — Tramways, from
the Place de la Mairie to Lille (see below), Tourcoing (1/2 hr. ; 25-30 c), and
Wattrelos (see below). — U. S. Commercial Agent, S. H. Angell, Esq.

Rouhaix is an important manufacturing town, the population of
which rose during the 19th century from 8000 to 124,660. It is
connected with the Scheldt and the lower Deule by means of a
canal. The Ecole Nationale des Arts Industriels is a kind of in-
dustrial university, with classes for a great variety of industrial,
artistic, and technical subjects.

7 M. Tourcoing (Hotel du Cygne; de la Bourse), another busy
manufacturing town with 73,350 inhab., practically forms part of
Roubaix. A monument commemorates the defeat of the English
and Austrians here by Jourdan and Moreau in 1794.

Roubaix and Tourcoing form the centre of one of the busiest industri-
al districts in France , the population of which has increased fourfold
during the past half-century. They are adjoined by numerous populous
communes, which are themselves towns in all but the name; thus Croix
and Wattt'elos^ suburbs of Roubaix, contain respectively 10,(X)L) and
17,0(X) inhabitants. The staple industry of the district is wool-manutacturing,
in which it bears comparison with any other district in the world, re-
presenting four-tifths of the entire production in N. France. The district
lies in the heart of French Flanders, and its industrious and enterprising
inhabitants have many points in common both with the French and the
Flemish type — a combination that has transformed a neighbourhood pos-
sessing no special advantages (such as coal or rivers) into one of the most
nourishing in France.

There is an English Church, outside Croix, on the Lille road (chaplain.
Rev. Charles Faulkner; services at 10 and 6), and also a French Protestant
Church at Roubaix (Rue des Arts; service at 11).

From Tourcoing a branch-railway runs to (9 M.) Menin., continuing the
line from Orchies. — 2 M. Tourcoing-les-Fr<tncs ; V/2 M. TIalluin (Pomnie
d'Or), with 15,780 inhab., the last French station. — 9 M. 3/e«i«, a Belgian
fortifl(?d town with about 11,700 inhab., is also situated on the line from
Ypres and Comines to Courtrai.

Beyond Tourcoing the frontier is crossed. 13 M. Mouscron
(Buffet), with the Belgian custom-house. — 197-2 M. Courtrai
(Lion d'Or j Damier; Royal; Midi), and thence to Bruges and Ostend,
see Baedeker s Belgium and Holland.

12. Lille.

Hotels. Hotel de l'Europe (PI. a; E, 3), Rue Basse 30-32, R., L., <fe
A. 5-71/2, B. IV2, dej. 33/4, D., incl. wine, 4V2, omn. V2-I fr- i i»e France
(PI. b; E, 3), Rue Esquermoise 77; de Flandke et d'Angleterre (PI. c;
F, 3), Place de la Gare; Grand Hotel de Lille (PI. e; F. 3), Matossi
(PI. f; F, 3), Central (Pl.-h; F, 3), all iu the Rue Faidherbei(Nos. 20,
2, and 25); Hot. de la Paix (PI. g; F, 4), Rue de Paris 46; Singk d'Or (PI. i;
F, 3), Place du Theatre 36-H8; Hot. du Commerce (PI. j; F, 4), Rue de
BiHhune 13 ; Metropole (PI. k), Moderne (PI. 1 ; F, 4), both Rue St. Maurice ;
Hot. de Paris, Place de la Gare; Hot. de Bkuxelles et de Tournai,
Rue des Buisses and Rue du Vieux-Faubourg (PI. F, G, 3), near the station,
R., L., & A. from 2, dej. 2V4, D., incl. V2 bot. of wine, 2V4, pens. 7Vsfr.;

LILLE. 12. Route. 89

Gr.-Hot. de Lyon (Pi. d ; F, 4), hotel-garni, Rue du Priez and Rue Faidlierbe.
• — Hotel-Buffet at the station (dependance of the Hotel de TEurope).

Restaurants. Grand Cafe, Rue Faidherbe 2, near the theatre; Divoir,
Rue duVieux-Marchc-aux-Poulets 15; also in many of the hotels and cafe's.
A modest repast, with beer, may be obtained in many of the Estaminets ;
e. g. De la Fontaine- Vallon , l^/i fr., at the comer of the Rue Nicoias-
Leblauc; Pagant Deloose, IV2 lr-i Rue de Bt'thune 37, both near the Palais
des Beaux-Arts, which is some distance from the other restaurants mentioned.

Cafes. Grand Cafe, see above; du Grand Hotel, Bulens, both in the
Rue Faidherbe; Bellevue, de la Paix, in the Grande Place ; Octave, du Boule-
vard, corner of the Rue Nationale and the Boulevard de la Liberie; du Globe
at the N.W. end of the Boul. de la Liberie; du Palais des Beaux- Arts,
Place de la Republique. — Taverne de Stras'^ourg, Grande Place; Brasserie
Universelle, Marche'-aux-Fromages 21, near the Grande Place.

Cabs: per drive IV4 fr., per hr. 12/4 fr., each succeeding hr. I1/2 fr.; at
night (12-6), 21/2, 3, or 2^/4 fr.

Tramways. Eighteen lines diverge from the Place de la Gare or the
Grande Place. Comp. the annexed plan. There are two classes on the
cars, and the routes are divided into 'sections', for each of which the fare
is 10 and 15 c. for the first, 5, 10, or 15 c. for each additional section. —
A steam-tramway (carrying luggage also) runs from the Grande Place to
Roubaix (p. 87) in 1 hr. (fares 75 or 50 c, return-ticket 1 fr. or 80 c).

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. E, 5), Place de la Re'publique. Tele-
graph also at the station.

Theatres. Grand TMdtre (PI. F, 3), Place du Theatre; Variitis (PI.
E, 4), Rue Jean Roisin 4. — Hippodrome (PI. E, F, 5), Kue Nicolas-Leblanc.

Baths. At the Grand Hotel (see p. 88); Bains Lillois. Boul. de la Li-
berie, near the Porte de Paris; Bains de I' Arsenal, Place de FArsenal ;
Bains de V Europe, at the Hotel de FEuriipe (1 f r.) ; Swimming Bath, Quai
Vauban 1.

English Church (Christ Church; PI. F, 5), at the corner of the Rue
Watteau and the Boul. de la Liberie; services at 11 and 6.30. Chaplain,
Rev. W. Burnet, M. A., Rue Jeanne-d'Arc 16.

American Consular Agent, C. D. Gregoire.

Lille, originally L' Isle, Flem. Ryssel, the chief town of the
French Departement du Nord, with 2i(5,'276 inhab., was formerly
capital of French Flanders. It is a fortress of the first class, with a
citadel said to he Vauhan's masterpiece, and is situated in a well
irrigated and fertile plain on the DeCUe, a navigable river with which
numerous canals are connected. In 1851 the population numbered
75,000 souls, but since the extension of the fortifications in 1858
numerous handsome streets and squares have sprung up, particularly
on the S. side of the town, to the right of the station. The church of
St. Maurice (p. 95) is almost the only building of importance that
has survived the many wars of the middle ages ; but the modern
town is handsome and attractive, and the Musee (p. 91) alone repays
a visit to Lille. Lille is a very important manufacturing place. Its
staple commodities are linen and woollen goods, cotton, cloth, 'Lille
thread', machinery, oil, sugar, and chemicals.

Lille is said to have been founded before the middle of the ilth cent.,
by Count Baldwin IV. It was ceded by Charles V. to Louis de Male in
1369, and passed by inheritance to the dukes of Burgundy, of whom one,
Philip the Good, made it his residence. In the course of the many wars
that distracted this part of Europe, Lille was held successively by the
Ausirians and Spanish, and it was taken from the latter by Louis XIV. in
1667. During the War of Succession Lille was besieged by the Duke of
Marlborough, and though the French army was stronger than that of the

90 Route 12. LILLE. Hotel de Ville.

Allies, the town was compelled to surrender in 1708 after a gallant re-
sistance. The treaty of Utrecht, however, in 1713, finally incorporated Lille
with France. Lille sustained a severe bonabardment from the Austrians
at the outbreak of the Revolutionary wars in 1792, but "in vain; Lille,
often burning is quenched again; Lille will not yield. The very boys
deftly wrench the matches out of fallen bombs. . . Memorable also be that
nimble Barber, who when the bomb burst beside him, snatched up a sherd
of it, introduced Soap and lather into it, crying, ' Foi7d mon plat a barbe,
My new shaving-dish !' and shaved 'fourteen people' on the spot . . . The
Plat a barbe became fashionable; 'no Patriot of an elegant turn', says
Mercier several years afterwards, 'but shaves himself out of the splinter
of a Lille bomb" (Carlyle). — General Faidherbe (1818-89J was a native
of Lille.

From the station the handsome Bue Faidherbe leads straight
to the Grand Theatre (PL F, 3), whence the Rue des Manneliers
runs to the left to the Grande Place, the centre of the old town.

The Bourse (PI. F, 3), a brick and stone edifice, with shops on
the groundtloor, was begun under the Spanish dominion in 165'2.
The court (apply to the concierge if closed) is surrounded by arcaded
galleries and contains a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Lemaire
(1854). The Column in the centre of the Place commemorates the
gallant defence of the town against the Austrians in 1792. On the
side of the Place next the Rue des Manneliers rises the Grand^ Garde,
built in 1717, and now occupied by the military staff.

The Hotel de Ville (PI. F, 4), erected in 1847-59 in the Renais-
sance style, occupies the site of a palace of the dukes of Burgundy.
The facade is adorned with two symbolical figures by Bra, represent-
ing Industry and Art. The Hotel de Ville contains the Blhliotheque
Communale (nearly 100,000 yoIs. ; open on week-days 9-10, Sun.
9-1) and a Musee of Engravings and Copies (open Sun., Wed., &
Frid., 10-4).

Returning to the Grande Place, we follow the Rue Nationale
(PL E, C, 4, 5), to the left, to visit the new town. Beyond the church
of St. Stephen (1696) and the Military Hospital (1605), once re-
spectively a chapel and a college of the Jesuits, the Rue Nationale
intersects the Boulevard de la Liberte (see below) and leads to the
Place de Strasbourg (PJ. D, E, 4), in which is a Monument to A.
Testelin, prefect of the Dep. du Nord and organizer of the national
defence in the N. of France in 1870-71.

The handsome Boulevard de la Liberie (Pl.D, E, F, 4, 5), which
forms the boundary between the old town and the new quarters built
in the Parisian style, begins at the Esplanade (p. 96) on the N.W.,
and leads to the S.E. to the extensive Place de la Republique (PI. E, 5),
in which rises an Equestrian Statue of General Faidherbe (see above),
by Mercie'. To the N.W. of the Place rises the spacious Prefecture
(PL E, 4, 5), dating from 1865-70, to the W., the Hotel des Pastes,
and to the S.E., the Palais des Beaux- Arts, near which is the Fontaine
Vallon.

The Palais des Beaux- Arts (PI. F, 5), a striking edifice, designed
by Berard and Delmas, was opened in 1892, but represents only

Palais des Beaux-Arts. LILLE. 12. Route. 91

about one-half of the original plan. The *Collections which it con-
tains are among the most important in France, the picture-gallery
heing especially rich in examples of the Flemish and Dutch schools.
The other collections include drawings, sculpture, antiquities, and
museums of ethnography and industrial and decorative art. The
collections are open to the public daily from 10 to 4 or 5 (Sat. 2-4
or 5). Entrance on the left. — The present arrangement is liable
to alterations,

Ground-Flooe.

Principal Gallery, next the facade: Sculptures. At the entrance,
Model of the Defence of St. Quentin, by Barrias. To the right, in the
centre: CUsinger, Bull 5 Leroux, Flower-girl; Iluguenin, Hebe; A. J. Allar,
Eve ; /. Sanson, Susanna at the bath ; Feug&es des Forts, Goat-herd ; Fri-
miety Knight errant (cast). — Opposite the windows, as we return : Foya-
tier, Spartacus; Ph. Roland., Death of Cato of Utica ; Jdrac, Cupid stung;
Feynot., The prey; Oodebsky, Satyr and young woman (bronze); Deplechin.,
Amphitrite. — The Small Gallery, parallel with the principal gallery,
contains svcidtW Antiquities : vases, sculptures, glass, bronzes, flint objects, etc.

Left Gallery, facing the entrance: '■'Antiquities (/. de Vicq Collec-
tion). — 1st Bay: Mediaeval sculptures, fonts, well-heads, tapestry. — 2nd
Bay: Religious sculptures and small bronzes of the 14-15th cent., church
plate from the 13ih cent, on, miniatures, locks, etc., tapestry. — ;ird Buy:
Works of the 15-17th centuries. To the right. Case 1: Carved *Ivory;
Case 2: Enamels, church -jewellery; Case '6: Jewellery, caskets, small
wood-carvings, cutlery; Case 4: Inlaid wood, caskets; Case 5: Alabaster
reliefs, clocks, goblets, reliquaries, spoons, wax medallions, etc.; Case 6:
Bronzes, objects in mother-of-pearl, with incised designs in black. —
To the left, as we return: Carvings and furniture, German altar-piece
(15th cent.); glass-case with small carvings, watches, curiosities, etc.;
wooden balustrade; line tapestry (Esther and Ahasuerus); glass-case with
large miniatures; glass-case with carvings, works in iron, and miscellaneous
small articles in metal. Beside the windows : furniture, bas-reliefs, church
ornaments, etc. — 4:th Bay (17th & 18th cent.). Case 1 (to the right) : Weapons,
engraved copper-plaque, miniatures, snuff-boxes, bonbonnieres; Case 2:
Bas-relief in copper; keys of the town; reliquary made of rolls of gilt
paper; German pewter fountain; large microscope; bagpipes. Then line
cabinets, hangings, tapestry. By the window: Lace made at Lille. — 5th
Bay. Furniture; book-bindings; tombstones. Above the door is an oaken
gallery.

Rotunda to the left. Five tapestries and four glass-cases with ancient
weapons, textiles, vestments, books, etc. At the end. Vinaigrette. — Trans-
verse Gallery. Important Ceramic Collection. — Rotunda to the right:
Empty.

Right Gallery: Ethnographical Collection (Musie Moillet). Also, at the
windows. Coins and Medals.

At the end is a staircase, embellished with a bronze bust of Napoleon I.,
by Chaudei, leading to the first floor. — The staircase beside the main en-
trance, on which is a bronze bust of a Bacchante, by Barcq, ascends to
the Pavilion Leleux (p. 93).

First Floor.
*Picture Gallery (Mtisie de Peinture). The paintings in each room
are mentioned from right to left. — Right Wing. — Room I (Pavilion
Brasseur). 188. P. de Coninck, Child exposed on the water to test the faith-
fulness of its mother; 499. Merson, Vision. — 365. Guillaumet, Arab market j
656. Rochegrosse, Nebuchadnezzar; 184. Commerre, Samson and Delilah. —
Between a door leading to the Galerie des Primitifs (p. 94) and one leading
to the Galerie Wicar (p. 94): ''453. Laug^e, Servant of the poor. Then,
*546. C. L. Mailer, 'Not this man, but Barabbas!'; 379, 378. Marpignies,

92 Route 12. LILLE. Palais des Beaux- Arts.

Landscapes; 255. Deyrolle, Lesson on the bagpipe; 400. Hoeckert, Sermon
in Lapland. — *280. Am. Duval , Birth of Venus ; 888. Weerts, St. Francis
of Assisi. — 448. Lansper, Sea-piece; 4d. B. Lepage, Priam and Achilles.

Room II. Blin^ Ruins. — 594. Henner, Entombment; 1. Agache, Fortune;
•■'772. Troyon, Forest of Fontaiuebleau ; Carolus-Duran (b. at Lille), *148.
Assassinated, 151. Sleeping man, 154, 153. Ed. Eeynart, 152. Lady and dog;
no number, £. Breton, Landscape; 81. Bonnat, Adam and Eve finding the
body of Abel; no number, Carolus-Duran, Em. de Girardin. — *500. Mer-
son, 'Le Loup d Agubbio', the wolf converted by St. Francis of Assisi in
the streets of Gubbro.

Room III. 350. Goya y Lucientes, Old women; 645. Eibot, St. Vincent;
111. Em. Breton, Chi-istmas ; 545. C. L. Muller, Gaming ; 495. Mazerolle, Nero
and Locusta testing poisons; 445. Lami, Battle of Hondschoote (1793); 223.
Daubigny, The Oise; 313. Frangais, Sacred grove; 544. Muller, Haidee
(from Byron s Don Juan); 349. Goya y Lucientes , Young women; 743.
iSteuhen, Joanna the JMad. — *232. E. Delacroix, Medea. — 194. Corot, Antique
festival; '135. Cabanel, Nymph carried off by a faun; 562. A. de Neuville,
Scouts (Crimea); '113. J.Breton, Ei-CL-tiug a Mont de Calvaire; 168. Chintreuil,
Evening mists; 750. Tatteyrain, The 'Cessions a Merci' before Philip the
Good (1430j; 491. Maillart, 61ayer of monsters; 200. Gowbet, After dinner
at Ornans. — ■'27. Baudry, Punishment of an erring Vestal.

Room IV. 1066. French School (18th cent.), Dogs and hare; 226. L.
David, Belisarius; 358. Greuze, Psyche crowning Cupid; 972. Unknown
Artiit (18th cent.). Old woman; 552. Nattier, Scene Galante. — 310. C. For-
tin, Chouans; 13. Ansiaux, John the Baptist before Herod; 224. Dauzats,
Algerian scene. — 715. A. Scheffer, The dead pass swiftly.

Room V (S. W. Favilion). — Louis and Frangois Watteau, whose works
occur so often in this room, were the nephew and grand-nephew of the
celebrated Antoine Watteau of Valenciennes ; their works are far inferior
to those of their kinsman, of whom the gallery possesses no authentic
specimen. — 523, 524. Monnoyer, Flowers; 864. Fr. Watteau, Popular fest-
ival at Lille in 178^; L. Watteau, 874. View of Lille, b75. Federation at
Lille; F. Watteau, 867. Feie at the Colysee in Lille, 866. Cavalry skirmish,
872. Happy family, 873. Feast of St. Nicolas, 879. Fete in 1792 in memory
of the raising of the siege of Lille, 869, 870. Battles of Ale.vander, 865.
'Braderie. or old clothes fair at Lille, 863. Fete du Broquelet; 779, 778.
Vaillant iiQ2'd-n; of Lille), Portraits; 67. Boilly, Triumph of Marat. —
Above is a series of large religious paintings by Am. de Vu^z (1642-1719
or 1720), brought from churches in Lille. — b60. Wainps (of Lille), Judg-
ment of Solomon.

Gal ERIE VjiKONfisE. 665. Salvator Rosa, Landscape; G. Poussin (Dughet),
264 (? J, 273. Landscapes; 492. C. Maratta, Dedication of a temple of peace;
447. Lanfranchi, St. Gregory; 958. Correggio (signature doubtlul). Rest on
the Flight into Egypt; 7tO. A. del Sarto, Madonna; line work of the Ital-
ian School (uncatalogued) ; 9. Caravaggio, St. John; 34. Canaletto, Piazza
di S. Marco; 10J5. Unknoicn Artist (16th cent.), Portrait; 654. Tintoretto,
Paradise (sketch); 170. Cignaroli, Death of Rachel; P. Veronese, 139. En-
tombment, '140. Eloquence. *138. Martyrdom of St. George, "141. Science ;
L. Bassano, 610. Portrait, 609. Christ expelling the money-changers; Ti7ito-
retto, 652. Venetian senator, 653. Martvrdom of St. Stephen; /. Bassano,
607. Interior, 608 (farther on), Wedding; 646. Ricci, Last Supper; 1056.
Unknown Artist (16th cent.). Infant 3Ioses trampling on the crown of the
Phaiaohs; 717. Schiavone, Esther and Ahasuerus; Doinenichino, 913. SS.
Stephen and Niecolo da Tolentino, 911. Victorious Cupid, 912. Diogenes;
6i8. Guido ReniCi), St. Sebastian; 636. (;. Re7ii, Sibyl; 1093. Unknown
Artist (16th cent.). Descent from the Cross; 768. Tiarini, Rinaldo and Ar-
mida. — 738. Spada, Chastity of .loseph; 258. Donado, Scourging of Christ.
— 591. Pantoja de la Cruz, Archduke Mathias; 644. Ribera, St. Jerome; N.
Poussin, 618 (copy), Venus and Mercury, 616 (farther on). Time freeing
Truth from Envy and Discord (sketch); Le N.in, 470 and another. Interiors;
804. Vignon the Elder, Adoration of the Magi ; no number. School of Povs-
.•ii/j, Moses saved from the Nile; Jean de Boullongne (Le VateTitin), 92. Mock-
ing of Christ, 93. Soldiers casting lots for the vesture of Christ; 976. Un-

Palais des Beaux- Arts. LILLE. 12. Route. 93

known Artist (27ih cent.), Last Supper; 458. Lebrnn, Hercules and Cacus;
Mignard, 512. Madonna, 511. Fortune; 451. Largilliere, Jean Forest, the
landscape-painter; 459. LebrunO), Vauban; 206. A. Goypel. Athalide and
Roxane (from Racine's 'Bajazet').

Left Wing. — Room I (S. E. Pavilion). 266. Sim.. Dubois , Landscape ;
Unknown Artist (17th cent.), 960. Landscape, 1016. Portrait of a scholar;
515. Minerdorfl, Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona ; 392. Van der Helsl.,
Venus ; 519. Molenaer. Carnival scene. — Van Bloemen, 59, 58 (farther on),
Views of Rome, 57. Flight into Egypt; 309. Flemalle, Episode in the life
of St. Lambert; *597. Pm^^-e^a, Assumption ; 108. Brekelevkamp, The inven-
tory; 603. Van der Poel, Kitchen; 539. Ant. More, Portrait. — 354. Van
Goyen, Skaters; 567. Uchtervelt, Family meal; 583. Is. van Ostade, Skaters.

— 106, 105 (farther on). Van Bredael, Fetes at Antwerp. — 902. De Witte,
Church of Delft; 107. P. van Bredael, Market in Italy.

Room II. 982. Unknoim Artist (17th cent.), Portr;iit; 353. Van Goyen,
Landscape; 216. B. Cuyp, Portrait; "209. A. de Grayer, Miraculous draught
of fishes (freely retouched). — ■■'761. Teviers the. Elder, Dives in hell; 173.
De Codde, Conversation; 295. Van den Eeckhont , Tribute-money; 758.
School of Teniers the Younger, Players at bnwls; *2il. De Grayer, Salvator
Mundi; 162. De Champaigne , Annunciation; ^'751. Teniers the Younger,
Temptation of St. Antony; 237. Van Dalen, Portico of a palace; 483. Lie-
rens the Elder, Salome. — 760. Teniers the Elder, Witches' Sabbath ; 262.
Van Dort, Melchisedech blessing Abraham; De Ghampaigne, ''J63. Holy Night,
164. Good Shepherd. — 741. Steen, Fiddler; 436. S. Koninck, Portrait; 725.
Siberechts, Landscape; 796. Versteegh. Interior; 579. Ossenbeck , Strolling
musician; 316. Franchoys. A prior; 742. Steen, Dutth musician; Braken-
hurgh, 96. Merry meal, 97 (farther on), After the wedding; 724. Siberechts,
Ford; 484. Lievens the Elder. Head of an old mnn. — 239. Delf, Portrait;
^'686. Juc. van Ruisdael, I andscape; 739. Verspronk, Portrait; 572. Van Oosi
the Younger. Founding of the order of Carmelites.

Room III. *627. Er. Qtiellin and Adr. van Utrecht. Christ at Bethany;
Van Dyck, *287. Miracle of St. Antony of Padua (a hungry mule kneels
before the Host, neglecting the oats placed near him), 288. Portrait; 576.
Van Oost the jE:Wcr, Portrait; 292. Van Dyck, Madonna; *672. Rubens, Death
of Mary Magdalen; 425. Jordaens, Huntsman with dog; 693. Ryckaert, Clam-
seller;* De Grayer, ^"208. The 'Quattro Coronati' (four early martyrs), 210.
The son of Tobias and the angel; ■289. Van Dyck, Marie de Medicis; 424.
Jordaens, Susanna and the elders ; -286. Von Dyck, Crucifixion; *753. Teniers
the Younger, Bohemians; 291. Van Dyck CO, Coronation of the Virgin; Jor-
daens, 426. Isaac blessing Jacob, -427. The Temptation; Rubens, 674. St.
Bonaveutura, 675 (farther on), St. Francis in ecstasy, *673. St. Francis and
the Viri'in; 419. Jordaens, Christ and the Pharisees; 60. Van Bockhorst,
Martyrdom of St. Maurice; 414. A. Janssens, Repentant Magdalen; 628.
E. Quellin, Solomon and the Queen of Sheba; 428. Jordaens, Bean-feast.

— Rubens, 677. Providence, *67i. Descent from the Cross, 676. Abundance.

Room IV. 218. J. G. Ci/yp. The family ; 104. Brouwer. Luncheon ; 582.
Is. van Osinde, Butcher; 161. Van Geulen the Elder. Anna Maria von Schur-
mann; 406. P. de Hoogh, Dutch interior; -328. De Geest, Dutch family;
^8. Brakenburg?!, 'Scene galante"; 373. jPr. .H'aZs, Domestic scene; 83. Boonen,
Musician. — 811. G. de Vos, Portrait; 561. JV. Nenchdtel, J. Neudorfer, the
mathematicia'i, and his son; ^915. Zustris, Judith; 401. Holbein the Younger,
Charity; 691. S. van Ruysdael, 687. Jac. van Ruisdael, Landscapes. — 752.
Teniers the Younger, Rustic interior; 433. Van Kessel, Smell; 553. Neeffs the
Elder, Church-interior; 141. Gamphvysen , Huntsmen resting; '390, '391
(farther on). Van dvr Heist, Portraits; *370. F. Hals, HiUe Bobbe of Haar-
lem; 405. HontJiorst, Triumph of Silenus; 906. P. Wouwerman, Huntsmen
resting; 319. Fyt, Animals; 434. Koedyck, Interior. — 254. Devries, Land-
scape; 631, 630 (farther on), Van Eavestein, Portraits; *916. Ziegler, Christ
appearing to Mary Magdalen ; 327. Van Geest, A Prince of Orange ; 692.
S. van Ruysdael, Landscape.

Room V (Pavilion Leleux). 395. Van Herp, Garden-concert; 885. Wau-
ters, Pomona; 301. N. van Eyck, Portrait; 18, 16, 17. Van Arthois, Land-
scapes; 49. Beuckelaery Road to market; 774. Van Utrecht, Cock-fight j 585,

94 Route 12. LILLE. Palais des Beaux-Arts.

Feetersy Sea-piece ; Snyders, Danish dogs ; *770. Tilborgh, Village festival.
— *'Wax Bust (temporarily in this room), see below. — 490. Maignan, Ad-
miral Carlo Zeno (blind); 334. Oelhey. Bibliophile; 657. Roelofs, Landscape;
759. School of Tenters the Younger, Village festival ; 728. Snayers , Camp ;
729. Snyders, Boar-hunt. — 187. De Coninck, Fruit and animals; 554. JVeeffs
the Elder, Interior of Bruges cathedral; 769. Tilborgh the Younger, Domestic
scene; 884. Wauters, Prometheus bound.

Galkkie des Primitifs, a small room communicating with the Pavilion
Brasseur (p. 91). Many of the paintings here are by unidentified artists.
989. Italian altar-piece; opposite, altar-piece acquired in 1897; Italian
School, 932. Holy Family, 990. St. Catharine of Siena; 305. Botticelli, Ma-
donna; 1069. Madonna in a similar style; 993. Italian School, Madonna;
*337. Ghirlandajo, Mador-na with the eglantine; 80. Bonifazio, St. Peter;
1011. French School, .Justice; 171. Clouet, Portrait; 116. '■Velvef Brueghel,
Holy Family; 33. Bellegamhe, Trinity; Brueghel the Elder, 125. Spring, 121.
Paying taxes; 612. Pourbus the Younger, Portrait; 1003. Flemish triptych;
980 (opposite), Shutters of a triptych; 1077. Flemish School, Madonna; 32.
Bellegambe, Mystical press; 578. Van Orley, Adoration of the Magi; 8. Am-
berger, Charles V. — 594. Patenier, John the Baptist preaching. — 1020.
French School, Satirical subject; 318. Franck the Elder, Charles V. assum-
ing the monastic habit; 983. Flemish School, Tarquin and Lucretia; 1002.
Portion of a Flemish triptych; 812, 813 (farther on), M. de Vos the Elder,
Portraits; 317. Franck the Younger, Christ on the way to Calvary; 346.
Mabuse, Madonna; 999. Flemish School, Christ in the house of Simon the
Pharisee; 53. H. met de Bles , Flight into Egypt; 1095. Flemish School,
Baptism of Christ; 225. Ger. David. Madonna; 1071. Flemish School. Holy
Family ; 213. P. Cristus, Philip IV le Bon ; 892. School of R. van der Weyden,
Calvary; 1022. Flemish School, Young married couple, with their patron
saints, at the gates of the celes'ial city; 1050. Dutch portrait; 385. Heems-
kerk. Allegory of the vices; 747. Bouts or Stuerbout, Symbolical fountain;
1046. Dutch farmer's wife; 1006-1009. Shutters of a German triptych; 1043.
German School, Coronation of the Virgin; 905. Wohlgemut, Mocking of
Christ; 957. German triptych.

Galeeik Wioak. This room, parallel to the preceding, contains the
valuable "Collection of Drawings, formed by the painter J. B. Wicar (b.
at Lille in 1762, d. at Rome in 1834), and bequeathed by him to his
native city.

The collection, which includes 1435 examples chiefly of the great Italian
masters, is arranged in schools, the masters of each being placed in accord-
ance with the dates of their birth. The custodian opens the closed frames
if requested. Besides drawings by Andrea del Sarto, Bandinelli, Caravaggio,
Annibale Carracci, Correggio, Carlo Dolci, Domenichino, Finiguerra, Fra Bar-
tolommeo, Giacomo Francia, Ghirlandajo, Giotto, Guercino, Guido Reni, Ginlio
Romano, Leonardo da Vinci, Mantegna, Masnccio, Parmiggianiuo} Perugiiio,
Salviati, Tintoretto, Veronese, Cranach, Holbein, Diirer, and many other masters,
the collection includes 8 by Titian, 196 by Michael Angelo (chiefly architec-
tural designs), and 68 ascribed to Raphael. Of these last the best are: 685.
Study for the 'School of Athens'; 697. Study said to include the God the
Father from the Matiliana fresco in the Louvre; 701. Christ crowning the
Virgin, sketched from some of his fellow-pupils; 737. Coronation of St.
Nicholas of Tolentino, an exquisite design for an altar-piece on panel; 741.
Holy Family, on the back of which is an autograph letter. Titian's drawings
include sketches for the paintings of St. Peter Dominican (864) and the
Cornaro family (866). — This collection also includes a famous **Head of
a girl, in wax, long ascribed to Raphael, but now recognised as ancient;
the drapery of the bust is of terracotta. This uniciue work (temporarily in
the Pavilion Leleux, see above) was probably found in a Roman tomb.
A few antiquities, some enamels, and a terracotta head by Donatello are
also exhibited here.

In the Boulevard de la Liberie, beyond the Palais des Beaux-Arts,
at the corner of the Rue Watteau, is the English Church (PI. F, 6;
p. 89), a tasteful Gothic t?diflce with stained-glass windows. The

St. Maurice. LILLE. 12. Route. 95

Rue de Valmy, before tlie cliurch, leads to the S. to the Place Philippe-
le-Bon (PL E, 5, 6), in which rises a Monument to Pasteur (1822-
90), by A. Cordonnier, erected in 1898. At the end of the Place is
the church of St. Michel (PL E, 6), in a modern Romanesque style,
with an interior decorated with paintings from the life of the saint.
The building to the left is the Palais de Facultes (PI. F, 5), accom-
modating the faculties of medicine, law, and literature of the Uni-
versity of Lille. Farther on, to the right, are the Institut Industriel
and the Institut des Sciences Naturelles; to the left, the Romanesque
Protestant Church, the University Library, the Synagogue, etc.

The Rue Jean-Bart leads E. past these modern buildings and
joins the end of the Boulevard de la Liberie', opposite the Ecole Na-
tionale des Arts et Metiers (PI. G, 5), a monumental edifice, complet-
ed in 1898. Adjoining, in the Boulevard Louis XIV, is the Institut
Pasteur, resembling that in Paris.

The Boulevard Papin, running to the N. before the Ecole, brings
us to the Porte de Paris (PL F, 5), formerly included in the old
fortifications. The gate was built in 1685-95 in the form of a triumphal
arch in commemoration of the union of French Flanders with France.
The sculptures were restored and the formerly plain inner facade
embellished in 1890-95.

The Rue de Paris (PL F, 4, 5) leads hence, to the N., to the centre
of the old town, passing close to St. Maurice (see below) and near
the railway-station. To the E. from the Porte de Paris are the Square
Ruault, with the old Hotel du Genie, and the old Hopital of St. Sa-
veur (PL G, 5). Near the latter are the ruins of the church of
St. Sauveur, burned in 1896, and the Noble Tour, a keep of the
15th cent., injured by the same fire.

The church of *St. Maurice (PL F, 4), to which the Rue St. Sau-
veur and its continuations lead, is built in the Flamboyant style and
has been recently restored. Above the W. portal, which has been
rebuilt, rises a fine stone open-work spire. When the W. door is
closed, visitors enter by a door to the right of the choir. The interior
is distinguished by the width of the nave and the double aisles, which
are all of the same height, by the lightness of its columns, and by
its richness of effect. The modern high-altar is in the Gothic style.

The Rue Esquermoise (PL E, 3), running N.W. from the Grande
Place and continued by the broad Rue Royale, prolongs the main
artery of traffic in the old town.

From tlie junction of these two streets the Rue de la Barre leads to
the W. to the Esplanade (p. 96), passing a little to the S. of the Gothic
church of St. Catharine (PI. C, 3), huilt in the 16th cent, and partly restored.
The church contains a fine painting of the Martyrdom of St. Catharine,
by E-uhens (near the entrance).

From the Rue Esquermoise we proceed through the Rue Basse
(right) and the Rue du Cirque (first to the left) to Notre-Dame-de-
la-Treille (PI. E, F, 3) , a church in the style of the 13th cent,

96 Route 72. LILLE.

designed "by the London architects H. Glutton and W. Burges, and
hegun in 1855. The hnilding was planned on so amhitious a scale,
that little has been completed. — The Rue Basse leads farther on
towards the Lycee (PL F, 3), which contains a Natural History
Museum (adm. 10-4).

In this neighbourhood are the Mvs4e Commercial (Eue du Lombard 2:
open 104) and the Poj'ie de Rouhaix or St. Maurice fPl. G. 3), built about
lb20-25, but altered in 1875.

To the N. of the Lyce'e is the Place St. Martin, with quaint old
houses. Farther on, at No. 32 Rue de la Monnaie, is the Hospice
Comtesse (PL F, 2, 3), founded in 1230 by Jeanne, Countess of
Flanders, hut dating in its present form from the 15th century. To
the E. is the Palais de Justice (1837), situated on the Basse-Deule,
a canal spanned a little farther on hy the curious Pont-Neuf (ilOi).

The Halle aux Svcres (PI. E, 2), close by, contains an Industrial Mv-
se7im., open 10-4 (Tues. 2-4).

The Eglise de la Madeleine (PI. F, 2), a domed church in the Greek
style, near the N. end of the town, contains a painting by Eubens (Adora-
tion of the Shepherds) and one by Van Dyck (Crucifixion), both spoiled by
restoration. This church has also several other interesting paintings (by
J. van Oost^ A. de Vuez, etc.), a tine iron choir-screen, etc.

The Chapel of the Public Hospital (PI. E, F, 1), close by, contains an
Adoration of the Shepherds by Va?i Dyck.

The church of St. Andrd (PI. D, H), an 18th cent, building in the Rue
Roy ale, contains a line contemporary pulpit, busts of SS. Peter and Paul
by A. Q,uellin, paintings by 0. Yenius, J. van Oost, and A. de Vuez, and
other works of art.

The Esplanade (PI. D, 2-3) extends in front of the Citadel (no
admission), which will soon he the only relic left of the fortifications
of Lille built by Vauban. At the N. end of the Esplanade is a bronze
statue, by Th. Bra, of General Negrier (PL D, 2); farther to the S.
is a Music Pavilion (military band on Sun. & Thurs. afternoons in
summer) ; and at the end of the Boulevard de la Liberte' (p. 90) is
the Pare Vauban (PL D, 3, 41, a public garden in which concerts
are given in summer (adm. 50 c). On the other side of the canal,
to the left, is the Jardin de la Citadelle (PL C, 2), continued by the
Bois de la Deide (Cafe-Restaurant).

The Boulevard Vauban (PL C, D, 5, 4), which skirts the gardens
on the side farthest from the canal, passes in front of the Palais
Rameau, a kind of 'Crystal Palace' for public festivals. Beside the
latter is the large and handsome College Libre St. Joseph. Near this
point, to the right of the Boulevard Vauban, rises the huge new
Catholic Institute (PL C, 4), in the Gothic style, with accommodation
for the five faculties, dwelling-houses, etc.

The church of A^otre-Dame-dc- Consolation (PI. B, C, 4), a little farther
on, has a richly adorned interior and a curious pulpit, representing a
ship in full sail.

From this neighbourhood we may return to the centre of the
town by the tramway (conip. the Plan).

From Lille (Calais) to Valenciennes. Aulnoye^^ Hirson. and Nancy., see
pp. 87-86, 09, 100.

HAM. 73. Rouie. 97

Fkom Lille to Tournai (Brussels), 16 M., railway in 40-55 min. (fares
2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 30 c). This line diverges after a short distance
from the lines to Douai and Valenciennes. — 21/2 M. Helleinmes (p. 87) ; 5M.
Ascq^ also a station on the line from Orchies (p. 87) to Tourcoing (p. 87).
— 8 M. Baisieux is the last French, and (11 M.) Blandain the iirst Belgian
station, at each of which there is a custom-house. — 16 M. Tournai (Hdtel de
la Petite-Nef; Bellevue; de Hollande; etc.), s&q Baedeker'' s Belgium and Holland.

Fkom Lille to Kethune (Abbeville) , 25 M. , railway in 1-1^/4 hr.
(fares 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). — The line skirts the S. of Lille, halting
at the Porte de Douai., Porte d'' Arras., and Porte des Pastes. — 5 M. Loos,
a town with 8770 inhab., is situated near an ancient Cistercian Abbetj, said
to have been founded in 1140 by St. Bernard, and now used as a prison. —
6 M. Hauhourdin., with 7457 inhab. (branch-line to St. Andri-Us- Lille, p. 99).
10 M. Wavrin., junction for Lens and Armentieres (see p. 18) ; 12 M. Don-
SainghiJi., junction for Lens (see p. 18) and Seclin (p. 86). 16 M. La Bass4e, a
small industrial town, is situated on the line of canals extending from the
Deule to Aire, St. Omer, and Gravelines. — 19i/-j M. Violaines. Branch-line
to Bully-Grenay (see p. 18). — 25 M. Bethune, see p. 18.

From Lille to Ypres, 22i^ M,, railway in V/:i-'2^/-2 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 60,
2 fr. 60, 1 fr. 70 c). From Lille to (4 M.) La Madeleine, see p. 99. — 13 M.
Comines (Hdtel des Trois Rots), with 7527 inhab., the last French station,
was the birthplace of Philip de Comines (1445-1509), the celebrated chron-
icler. The Lys, upon which it is situated, is the boundary between
France and Belgium, — 14 M. Comines (Belgian station), with the custom-
house. — 22^/2 M. Ypres, see p. 18.

13. From Calais (London) to Chalons-sur-Marne (Bale)
via Amiens, Laon, and Eheims.

238 M. Railway in 6V4-6V4 hrs. — From Calais to Amiens, see R. 1,
— From Amiens to Laoji, 67 M., in 13/4-31/3 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 30, 8 fr. 25,
5 fr. 35 c). — From Laon to liheims, 32 31., in l-l'/a hr. (5 fr. 80, 3 fr. 95,
2 fr. 55 c.). — From Rheims to Chalons, 35 M., in 50 min.-lV2 hr. (6 fr. 40,
4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 80 c).

This line forms part of the direct route from London to Switzerland
and Italy. Tlie day-service, leaving London at 11 a. m. and Calais (Gare
Maritime) at 3 p.m., proceeds beyond Chalons, via Chaumont and Belfort,
reaching Bale at 6.10 a. m. The night-service, leaving London at 8.15 p. m.
and Calais at 1 a. m., proceeds via Chalons and Nancy., reaching Bale at
5.25 p. m. (fares from London to Bale, bl. 4^., 3Z. 16s., no 3rd. cl.; single
tickets are valid for 30 days). Sleeping-carriages between Calais and Bale.

Calais, seep. 3. — From Calais to Amiens., 103'^/4 M., see R. 1.

Amiens, see p. 25. — We diverge to the left beyond Amiens
from tlie line to Paris, and cross the line from Paris to Arras. —
108 M. Blangy-Glisy. 114M. Villers-Bretonneux, 3,11 indnstxial town
with 5735 inhab., was the scene of one of the main engagements in
the battle of Amiens (see p. 26), in which the French Armee du
Nord was ronted. — The fertile district of Santerre is now traversed
and several small stations are passed, including (122 M.) Rosieres,
the junction for Montdidier and Albert (p. 72). — 127 M. Chaulnes
has also a station on the line from Paris to Peronne and Cambrai
(R. 8). — 133 M. Nesle is a small town of considerable antiquity,
with a church partly in the Romanesque style of the 13th century.
Several of the Sieurs de Nesle are famous in history.

140 M, Ham (Hotel de France), a small town with a Castle dating
from the 13th cent., the donjon of which, 110 ft. broad and 110 ft.

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 7

98 Route 13. LA FfeRE.

higli, has walls 35 ft. thick. It was long used as a place of confine-
ment for political prisoners; and here Louis Napoleon spent six
years after the failure of his attempt at Boulogne in 1840. He
effected his escape in 1846. The church of Notre-Dame, partly
Romanesque, restored in the 18th cent., the Library, and the Belfry,
formerly a church-tower, may also be noted. General Foy (1775-
1825) was born at Ham, and a bronze statue was erected to him in
the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, where also is a small Musee.

Beyond (146 M.) Flavy-le-Martel we join the line from St. Quen-
tin and follow it in the direction of Paris.

1531/2 M. Tergnier, see p. 104. Here our line turns to tlie E.
and crosses the Crozat and Oise Canals and the river Oise.

1541/2 M. La Fere (Hotel de V Europe)^ a fortified town with
5000 inhab. on the Oise, was bombarded and taken by the Germans
in 1870. It has a school of artillery founded in 1719. The Musee,
on the Esplanade, contains about 500 paintings bequeathed to the
town by the Countess d'He'ricourt (d. 1875), few of them of great
value and several injured by the bombardment. It is open to the
public on Sun., 2-4; on other days on application. Catalogue, 1 fr.

Room A. 43. Salvator Rosa, Deliverance of Andromeda; 332. /. van
Ruisdael, Landscape; 36. Giulio Romano, Trhimph of Neptune; 335. S. van
Ruysdael, Skaters ; 285. Hobbema, Landscape; 51. After Titian, Mary Magdalen ;
3. Guerchino, Rape of Chloris; 273. Goltzius, Adam and Eve; 194. Van
Schnppen, Portraits. — 361. Weenix, Dinner at the farm. — 28. Lippi, Holy
Family; 108. German School, Nativity; 214. De Vriendt, The Ten Virgins';
144. De Grayer, Meeting. — Rooms B. and C. unimportant.

Room D. 49, 50. Tempesta, Battle of Amazons; 364. C. Visscher, Maker
of 'koucks'; 314. Netscher, Interior; 157. Hals the Elder, Portrait; 476.
Watteau, Duet; 354. Verkolie, Interior; 212. M. de Vos, Mythological scene
or Pan and Syrinx; 59. Italian School, Quarrel; 17. An. Carracci, Charity;
304. Metsu, Scullery-maid. — Italian School. 61. Nativity, 60. Annunciation;
250. Van Brekelenkamp, Dutch interior; 272. Goltzius, Annunciation, Nativity,
Adoration of the Magi (triptych). — 115. Van Balen, Prodigal Son; 434. Mme.
Lebrun, Mme. Adelaide, aunt of Loui.s XVI. ; 315. Ommeganck, Landscape
with animals; 351. Terburg, Dutch interior; IM. *■ VelveC Brueghel. Crossing
the ford; 52. School of Leonardo da Vinci, JIadonna and Child; 323. Van
Racestein, Portrait; 341. Van Schorel, Magdalen praying; 6. Bellotto (Cana-
letto), View of Venice; 21. Dossi, Adoration ot the Magi ; 67. Italian School,
Holy Family. — 199. Bouts, Scourging of Christ; 103. Wohlgemut, Descent
from the Cross; 80. Morales, Ecce Homo; 41. Parmigianino, Marriage of
St. Catharine; 37. Fr. Francia, Holy Family; 35. Penni, Charity. — Room E.
507. Unknown Artist of the 15th cent.. Resurrection of Lazarus; 300. Lucas
van Leyden, Crucilixion; 217. Flemish School of the 15th cent.. Calvary.

From (158 M.) Versigny a branch-line runs to (1372 M.) Dercy-
Mortiers (p. Ill), through the valley of the Serve.

168 M. Laon, see p. 108. — Beyond Laon several small stations
are passed, and the Aisne and the Suippe are crossed.

200 M. Rheims, see p. 118. The through-trains to Switzerland
do not enter the terminus at Rheims; passengers for that town change
carriages at the station of Betheny.

From Rheims to (225 M.) St. Hilaire-au-Temple, see p. 126;
thence to (IO72 M.) Chfi-lons-sur-Marne, see p. 139.

From Chalons to Chaitmont and Belfort, see pp. 300, 301; to Nancy, p. 142.

99

14. From Calais (London) to Nancy (Strassburg) via
Lille, Valenciennes, Hirson, and Longuyon.

301 M. Railway, direct in summei- in 1472 lu-s. — From Calais to Lille,
66V2 M.. in l3/4-3'/2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 10, 8 fr. 10, 5 fr. 25 c). — From Lille
to Valenciennes, 291/2 M., in IV2-2V4 hrs. (5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 35 c). -
From Valenciennes lo Nancy, 205 M., through-train in summer in 9 hrs.
(fares about 37, 25, 16 fr. 30 c). — From London to Nancy by this route,
leaving London at 8.15 p. m. and reaching Nancy at 3.55 p. m. ; via Amiens,
Laon, Rheim'^, and Chalons (R. 13), starting at the same hour but arriving
about 10.50 a. m. (fares 93 fr. 10 and 65 fr. 90 c).

Calais^ see p. 3. — From Calais to (38 M.) HazebroucTc, see
pp. 15-17. We leave tlie line from Paris to Arras on the right.

46^2 M, Bailleul (Faucon)^ a curious and pi(5turesque Flemish
town with 13,450 inhab., largely engaged in the production of hand-
made lace. The belfry of i\\e Hotel de Ville dates from the 15-17th
cent,, the church of St. Vaast from the 14th and 17th. The Musee
contains a small collection of paintings and antiquities.

531/2 M. Armentieres (Hotel de Paris )^ a prosperous manufactur-
ing town with 29,600 inhab,, is situated on the Li/«, near the frontier.
Its principal products are cloth and table-linen. Railway to Lens
(Arras), see p. 18.

A branch-railway runs from Armentieres to (21 M.) Berguette (p. 18),
passing the small towns of (6 M.) Laventie, (8V2 M.) La Oorgiie- Estaires,
(12 M.) Merville, and (16'/2 M.) St. Venant. — Another branch runs to
(91/2 M.) Comines (p. 97), via (IV4 M.) Houplines and (3 M.) Le Touquet, the
frontier-stations.

From (611/2 M.) St. Andre-les-Lille a branch runs to Haubourdin
(p. 97). — 63*'m. La Madeleine, an industrial village (10,800 in-
hab.), whence a branch runs to Ypres (p, 18). — We cross the Deule
and join the lines from Tournai, Valenciennes, Paris, and Bethune.

66V2 M. Lille, see p. 88, — From Lille to (96 M.) Valenciennes
in the reverse direction, see pp. 87, 86.

As we leave Valenciennes, we see the modern Romanesque brick
church of the Faubourg de Paris on the left. To the left also is the
line to Maubeuge (p. 107), and to the right the line to Le Cateau via
Solesmes (p. 106) and the Canal of the Scheldt. — 99 M, Le Poirier,
with iron-works. — Maing-Famars. Famars (Fanum Martis) occupies
the site of a Roman colony, excavations on which in 1824 yielded
no fewer than 28,000 objects (jewels, coins, trinkets, etc.).

108 M. Le Quesnoy (Hotel du Grand-Paris), a fortress with 3872
inhab., belonged successively to Hainault, Burgundy, and Austria,
before the Treaty of the Pyrenees united it finally with France in
1659. Of its numerous sieges the chief is that of 1793, when the
Austrians captured it after a bombardment of ten days, which laid
two-thirds of the town in ruins. It was, however, recovered by the
Republican troops in 1794. After the battle of Waterloo the Dutch
garrisoned Le Quesnoy until 1818. About II/4 M. to the N.E. is the
small Chateau de Potelle, a well-preserved relic of the 14th century.
— Railway to Cambrai and to Bavay, see p. 74.

7*

100 Route J 4. HIRSON.

We next traverse the Forest of Mormal, and beyond (116 M.)
Berlaimont (p. 106) cross the Sambre.

118 M. Aulnoye (p. 107). The railway continues in an E.
direction. The canalized Sambre is crossed, and the country traversed
is picturesquely diversified, — Several small stations.

125 M. Avesnes [Hotel du Nord; Cholet, at the station), on the
Helpe^ a town with 6400 inhab., and at one time fortified, suffered
severely in the wars of the 15-1 6th centuries. Its chief building is
the Church of St. Nicholas^ dating from the 13th and 16th cent., with
a tower 200 ft. high and a fine peal of bells. The Fondation
FiiZien, a modern building, contains a small museum of antiquities,
etc. Wool-spinning is an active industry in the neighbourhood,
centering at Avesnelles^ the next station. — Railway to Sars-Poteries
(Maubeuge), see p. 107.

135 M. Fourmies (Hot. de la Providence; des Messageries; Grand
Hotel), a town with 15,287 inhab. and an active woollen industry,
is the junction for Valenciennes via Maubeuge (see p. 107). —
,1371/2 M. Anor (p. HI).

143 M. Hirson (Buffet-Hotel; Hotel de la Poste, well spoken of),
an industrial town with 6632 inhab. , on the Oise, is noted for its
basket-making.

From Hirson to Amagne-Lucqdy, 38V2 M., railway in IVz-l'A ^^^
(fares 6fr. 95, 4fr. 70, 3fr. 5 c.). — 8V2 M. Auhenton, at the confluence of
the Aube and the Thon or Ton., is engaged in wool-spinning. I2V2 M. Eu-
migny has a chateau of the 16th century. — 16 M. Liavt is the junction
1 ;the line from Laon to Mezieres (p. IIU). — 38V2 M. Amagne-Lucquy, see
p. 127.

The railway beyond Hirson traverses an undulating country,
(lotted with iron-mines, slate-quarries, and factories. — 144^2 M.
St. Michel-Sougland. The rich abbey of St. Michel is now repre-
sented by its church, dating from the 12th and 16th cent., and some
buildings of the 18th century. — Several small stations. — From
(164 M.) Le Tremblois a narrow-gauge line runs to (71/9 M.) Rocroi
fp. 113). — The slate-quarries of (I66V2 M.) Rimogne are the most
important in the N. of France. — 173 M. Tournes (p. 110). — The
train passes between Me'zicres and Charleville.

178 M. Mezieres-Charleville, see p. 128. — Continuation of the
journey to (231 M.) Longuyon, and thence to (301 M.) Nancy, see
pp. 128^133.

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CHANTILLY. 16. Route. 101

ing through-express, with second-class carriages. — For farther details of
St. Denis, Chantilly, and other places near Paris, see Baedeker's Paris.

Shortly after the fortifications are passed, the line to Soissons,
Laon, etc. (p. 116) diverges to the right. 41/2 M. St. Denis^ with
the tower of its new church conspicuous on the right, and the tower
of the cathedral farther off. The lines to Amiens and to Le Treport
via Beauvais (pp. 25, 32) diverge here to the left. — 6 M. Pierrefitte-
Stains. On the right rises the Fort de Garches. Beyond (22'/2M.)
Orry-Coye the train crosses a viaduct, 130ft. high. Below, to the
right, on the hanks of the Etangs de Commelle, is the Chateau de la
Reine Blanche, a small modern Gothic hunting-lodge, on the site
of a chateau once occupied by St. Louis and Queen Blanche.
We now enter the Forest of Chantilly.

2572 M. Chantilly {Hotel d' Angleterre ; Lion d'Or; etc.), the first
stopping -place of the through -trains, a town with 4211 inhah.,
famous, especially in the 17th and 18th cent., as the residence of
the Conde's. The well-known Race-Course is situated near the station.
Farther off are the extensive Stables of the Condes (18th cent.), and
the two Chateaux, with their fine Park. The main *Chateau, witli
its magnificent art-collections, was presented to the Institut de France
hy the Due d'Aumale (1822-97), and is open to visitors on Sun. and
Thurs. in summer, from 1 to 5 (except race-days). For details, see
Baedeker's Paris.

From Chantilly to CitfePT-EN-VALOis , 227^ M., railway in 1 hr. (fares
4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 c). This branch diverges to the right be-
yond the viaduct mentioned below. — 8 M. Senlis (Hdtel du Grand Cerf),
the Roman Civitas Si/lvanectensivm , situated on the Nonelte , is a pleasant
little town with 72U0 inhab., which is frequently mentioned in mediaeval
history. Sixteen towers of the Oallo-Roinan Fortifications are still preserved.
The Gothic ''Cathedral, a handsome building of tlie 12-16tli cent., possesses
a portal (1154) adorned with bas-reliefs and statues, and two square towers,
one of which is 250 ft. in height. The rich facade of the S. transept is
in a late-Pointed style. The churches of St. Pierre (16th cent.), St. Fram-
bourg (i2th cent.), and the former abbey-church of St. Vincent (12th cent.)
are also worthy of inspection. — 22^/2 M. Cr4py-en-Valois, see p. 115.

Beyond Chantilly the train crosses the valley of the Nonette by
a Viaduct, 484 yds. in length and 72 ft. in height, commanding a
fine view. To the left is a modern chateau of the Kothschilds. The
train passes through a cutting, traversing the quarries of St. Maxi-
min, which yield excellent building-stone , and soon crosses the
Oise. To the right is another handsome modern chateau of the Roth-
schilds. To the left are the church of St. Leu-d'Esserent (p. 32),
the line to Pontoise (p. 48), and the village and manufactories of
Montataire (5300 inhab.), commanded by a handsome church of the
12-13th cent., and a chateau of the 15th century.

32 M. Creil (Buffet; Hotel du Chemin-de-Fer; du Commerce), a
town with 8456 inhab., prettily situated on the Oise, is an important
junction on the Chemin de Fer du Nord. The Parish Church is a
building of the 12-15th centuries. On an island in the river are the
ruins of the Church of St, Evremont, a fine though small example

102 Route 15. COMPIEGNE. From Paris

of the Transition style (12tli cent.), and some remains of an ancient
royal chateau.

Braneh-line to Pontoise and Beaumont, see p. 32; to Amiens, etc., see
B. 1 ; to Beauvais and Le Triport, see R. 3.

Beyond Creil the train skirts the Oise; the Amiens line diverges
to the left. — 39 M. Pont-Ste-Maxence, with a handsome hridge,
huilt in 1774-85, and an interesting church.

About 3/4 M. to the S.E. are the important remains of the Abbaye de
Moncel (partly I4th cent. ; visitors admitted). — Near the station is the
Fo7'et d'Hallate, traversed by a road to (81/2 M.) Fleurines and (772 M.) Senlis
(p. 101).

45 M. Longueil- Ste- Marie (to Verberie and Estrees-St-Denis,
see p. 103). — 48V2 M. Le Meux (to Cre'py-en-Valois, see p. 103)1

521/2 M. Compiegne. — Hotels. De la Cloche, R., L., & A. 3, B. 11/4,
dej. 2, I). 3, pens, from 8 fr., omn. 50 c. ; de Feanoe, R., L., & A. 8, dej. 3,
D. 31/2 fr. incl. viane , pens. 8V2, omn. V2 fr. ; Corne-de-Cerf, dej. 21/2,
D. 3 fr. ; DE Flandre, near the station, vi'ell spoken of 5 de la Gtaee, with
cafe', pens. V/2 fr.

Cafes. De la Cloche, Place de THotel-de-Ville ; others near the station ;
'■'Railway Buffet.

Cabs. Per drive, 2 pars. V4 fr., 3 pers. 1 fr. 10 c, 4 pers. IV2 fr. ^ per
hr. 11/2, 2, or 21/2 fr. To Pierrefonds or Champlieu., 12-20 fr. for 4 pers.
(bargain desirable).

English Church. St. Andrew''s, AvenneThiers ; Chaplain, Rev. A.F. Showell.

Compiegne, on the Oise, a town with 15,225 inhab., was always
a favourite country-residence of the monarchs of France, and is,
therefore, a place of some historical importance. It was here that Joan
of Arc was taken prisoner by the Burgundians in 1430. A monument
to her memory, by Leroux, was erected in the Place de I'Hotel-de-
Ville in 1880. Turning to the right on leaving the station, and
crossing the Oise, we soon reach the Hotel de Ville, erected at the
beginning of the 16th cent., with a fine facade, now adorned with
modern statues, above which rises a belfry, 152 ft. in height. It
contains a small but interesting Museum of paintings and other works
of art (open free Sun. & Thurs., 2-5; an other days for a gratuity).
The Gothic churches of St. Jacques and St. Antoine (12-15th cent.)
are uninteresting. The Palace, at the end of the town near the forest,
was built by Gabriel in the reign of Louis XV. Visitors are ad-
mitted to the richly furnished and decorated interior, which con-
tains a small art-gallery (10-5 in summer, 11-4 in winter); the so-
called 'appartements re'servos' are shown on application to the cus-
todians. The fine *Park is also open to the public. The Forest, which
affords many beautiful walks, is 36,270 acres in area and 59 M. in
circumference. — For details, see Baedeker's Paris.

Branch-railways lead from Compiegne to (221/2 M.) Roye (Peronne
and Cambrai; p. 72) .and to (25 M.) Soissons (p. 116), by the valley of the
Aisiie, diverging from the line to Villcrs-Cottcrcts at (4 M.) Rethondes. —
Branch-line from Compiegne to Clermont and Beauvais, see p. 26.

From Compiegne to Villers-Cottekets via Piekrefonds, 23 M., rail-
way in 1 hr. (fares 4 fr. 15 , 2 fr. 80 , 1 fr. 80 c). To Pierrefonds, 10'/2 M.,
railway in 25-35 min. (fares 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 30, 85 c). — The line crosses
the Oise and skirts the forest to the E. and S.K. — IOV2 M. Pierrefonds
(Hotel des Bains, witb baths, R., L.. & A. 5'/2, B- I'A- «^cj. 3, D. 4, pons. 12,

to Namur. NO YON. 15. Route. 103

omn. '/2 fr. ; Hdtel des Etrangers^ opposite the chateau and near the station,
dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr.; des Euines, Rue Carnot; de VEnfer, Rue Viollet-le-Duc ;
CafS- Restaurant du Lac^ facing the lake, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr.), a village with
1750 inhab., prettily situated on a small lake and possessing a mineral
spring, is chiefly interesting on account of its magnificent *Feudal Castle.
This building was erected in 1390 by Louis of Orleans, brother of Charles VI.,
and was one of the strongest and handsomest of the castles of that period.
It was besieged four times by the royal troops, and was at length dis-
mantled in 1617. During the E evolution it was sold, and it was afterwards
purchased by Napoleon I. It was restored by Viollet-le-Duc (d. 1879) at a cost
of 5 million' francs, three-fourths of which were supplied by Napoleon III.
The imposing edifice stands on a rocky height above the village, covering
an area of nearly 1^/2 acre. At the corners and in the centre of each side rise
massive loopholed towers (eight in all), J 12 ft. in height, with walls 15-20 ft.
thick. The entrance is on the S. side. The donjon, with its rich decorations,
conveys an excellent idea of the splendour of a mediscval feudal lord.
Above the fire-place in the hall of state are statues of 9 heroines : Semiramis,
Lampedo , Deiphila , Tomyris , Tanqua, Penthesilea, Menelippe, Hippolyta,
and Deifemme. — 23 M. Villers-Coiterets, see p. 115.

From CoMPifecNE to Crept- en - Valois, 2iV2 M., railway in 1 hr.
(fares 8 fr. SO, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c). The railway diverges from the
line to Paris at Le Meux (p. 102). — 10 M. Verherie^ a small town, once a
favourite residence of the Merovingian and Carolingian kings of the 8-9th
cent., retains, however, no relics of its early greatness. Here, in 856, Ethel-
wolf of England married Judith, the daughter of Charles the Bald. The
church dates in part from the 12-13th centuries. A branch runs hence to
Longueil (p. 102) and (IOV2 M.) Estrees-St-Denis (Boves- Amiens; see below).
— 15 M, Orrouy, about I1/2 M. to the N.W. of which is Champlieu, with a
ruined church of the 12th cent., and some Roman remains (baths, theatre,
temple, etc.). The custodian of the ruins lives at Orrouy. — 2IV2 M.
Crdpi/-en- Valois, see p. 115.

From CoMPiftGNE to Amiens , 45V2 M. , railway in 2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 20,
5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 60 c). — 9 M. Estrees-St-Denis, formerly chief town of
the barony which gave name to the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estre'es, mistress
of Henri IV. (Railway to Verberie, see above.) — 28 M. Montdidier, see
p. 71. — 33V2 M. Moreuil , with a large ruined castle and the church and
other remains of a Benedictine priory of the 14-15th centuries. — At (4OV2 M.)
Boves we join the railway from Paris to Amiens (p. 24).

67M. Nojon (Hotel duNord), an ancient town with 7468 inhab.,
was known to the Romans as Noviodunum Veromanduorum. St.
Medard and St. Eloi (Eligius) were "bishops of Noyon. Here Chil-
peric was buried in 721, Charlemagne crowned king of the Franks
in 768, and Hugh Capet elected king in 987. Noyon was the birth-
place of Calvin (1509-64), the reformer, and of Jacques Sarrazin
(1592-1660), painter and sculptor, to whom a bronze statue, by
Mohlknecht, was erected on the promenade in 1851. — The Cath-
edral, presenting an exceedingly harmonious though not an im-
posing exterior, is one of the most beautiful examples in France
of the Transition style of the ll-12th centuries. Round and pointed
arches are used promiscuously, but the latter are the more numer-
ous. The two W. towers, 200 ft. high, are unfinished; the portico
(14th cent.) has three portals , unfortunately much injured in the
course of time. In the interior of the nave square pillars with
engaged columns alternate with single columns. The aisles have
galleries with pointed arches, above which is a triforium with round
arches. The transepts have a triforium and two rows of coupled

104 Route 15. ST. QUENTIN. From Paris

windows , one row Gothic, the other Romanesque. The choir-apse
is surrounded by small circular chapels, recalling , as do also the
apsidal terminations of the transepts, the cathedral of Tournai,
whose bishop was subject to ^'oyon until 1135. The chapels of the
nave were added in the 14-16th centuries. On the N. side of the
cathedral, and behind the choir, are a Chapter-House and the
remains of a Gothic Cloister.

77 M. Chauny (*H6t. du Pot-d"Etain) , an industrial town of
9927 inhab,, with bleach-fields and a branch of the St. Gobain mirror-
works (see below).

Fkom Chaunt to Laon via Coucij-le- Chateau^ 26V2 M., railway in 1^/4 hr.
(fares 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c). To Coucy, 8V2 M. in 1/2 lir- (1 fr. 70,
1 fr. 15, 75 c.). — 3 M. Sinceny, with an did porcelain-factory. From (41/2 M.)
Rond-d'Orlians a branch-railway runs to (5 M.) St. Gobain , celebrated for
its Mirror Works, founded in 1693, and probably the largest in the world
(visitors admitted). — 6 M. Folemhray, where there is a large glass-work.

8V2M. Coucy-le-Chateau (B6t. des Ruines ; Pommed'Or), a village famous
for its formidable *Ca.stle, now in ruins, one of the most striking monuments
of the feudal ages in Europe. This huge stronghold, which covered an
area of 10,0(X) sq. yds., was built early in the 13th cent, by Enguerrand III.,
and till 1396 it remained in the possession of his family, who bore the
proud motto: 'Roi ne suys, ne prince, ne due, ne comte aussi ; ie suys
le sire de Coucy". The wealthy Louis of Orleans, who built Pierrefonds,
then bought it, and in 1498 it passed to the French crown. The castle,
dismantled in 1652 by Mazarin's orders, had for its last lord Philippe
'Egalitc'' of Orleans. It is now public property and open to visitors (fee).
The donjon, according to Viollet-le-Duc, is the finest specimen in Europe
of mediaval military architecture; 'compared with this giant', he says,
'the largest towers known appear mere spindles'. It is '-^10 ft. high and
100 ft. in diameter, and the walls are in some places 34 ft. thick. Four
smaller towers, a moat, and high walls also protected the fortress, which
stands on an eminence, approached by long steep slopes on all sides but one.

At (16 M.) Anizy-Pinon we join the line from Paris to Laon (p. 108)
via Soissons.

At (81 '/2 ^^0 '^GTCgnierfBuffet; Hot. du Chemin-de-Fer) are large
railway-workshops. Railway from Amiens to Rheims, see pp. 97, 98.

The main line now quits the Oise, and for some time skirts the
Canal Crozat^ which joins the Oise and the Somme.

951/2 M. St. Quentin. — Hotels. Du Ctgne (PI. a; B, 3), Eue St.
Martin; i>e France et d'Angletekee (PI. b; B, 3), Rue St. Martin 28; du
Commerce (PI. c ; B, 2), Eue du Palais-de-Justice 27, R. & A. 3, dej. 31/2 fr. ;
*DE LA Gare (PI. d; B, 5). at the station. — Cafes. Grand Cafi , Cafi de
Paris, Place de 1 Hotel-de-Ville.

Cabs. Per drive, 2 pers. 80 c. , 3 pers. 1 fr. 20, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c.;
perhr., IV2, 2, or 21/2 fr.; at night (11 p.m.-6 a.m.), per drive, 2 pers. I'/z,
3-4 pers. 2 fr., per hr., 1^ 2 or 3 fr.

St. Quentin, an ancient town with 48,868 inhab., is situated on
rising ground on the right bank of the Somme , at the point where
it is joined by the Canal de St. Quentin and the Canal Crozat. It is
the centre of a highly important industrial district, and carries on
extensive cotton and woollen manufactures.

St. Quentin was known to the Romans as Augusta Veromandnorum.,
and derives its modern name from the youthful martyr who introduced
Christianity here in the 3rd century. It afterwards became the capital of
the Counts of Vermandois. In 1560 it formed part of the dowry of Mary,
C^ueeu of Scots, who derived a revenue from it until her death. Iii 1557 the

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to Namur. ST. QUENTIN. 15. Route. 105

Spaniards, with their English, German, and Flemish auxiliaries, under
the Duke of Savoy, signally defeated the French under Coligny and the
Constable Montmorency near St. Quentin. The battle was fought on St.
Lawrence's day, and it was in gratitude for this victory that Philip II.
vowed the erection of the Escurial. On the 19th Jan., 1871, the French
'Arme'e du Nord' under Faidherbe was defeated near St. Quentin by the
Prussians under General Goeben.

Quitting the Station['Pl. B, 6), we cross the Somme and the Canal
de St. Quentin and enter the town. In front of us is the Place du Huit-
Octobre (PI. B, 4), emhellished with a handsome Monument , by Bar-
rias, symbolizing the successful defence of the town against the first
attack of the Germans on Oct. 8th, 1870.

The Rue d'Isle leads thence to the Place de THotel-de-Ville, in
which rises the ^Monument of the Siege of 7557, with sculptures by
C. Theunissen (1897). On the N. side of the Place is the *H6t€l de
Ville (PI. B, 3), a fine Gothic building of the 14th and 15th cent.,
resembling the Belgian town-halls of the same period. The facade
consists of an arcade of seven pointed arches, above which are nine
fine windows in the Flamboyant style, separated by niches originally
intended for statues and surmounted by a tasteful balustrade and
three gables ornamented with rosettes. The chief point of interest
in the interior is the Salle du Conseil, the roof of which rests upon
two circular wooden vaults. The large and elaborate chimney-piece
presents a curious mixture of the Gothic and the Renaissance styles.

The *Church of St. Quentin (PI. B, C, 3), a little to the E. of
the Hotel de Ville, is a fine example of French Gothic of the 12-15th
cent., but is unfortunately much masked by other buildings. It has
double transepts, and the nave is 370 ft. long and 130 ft. high. The
"W. portal, which was formerly adorned with statues, is one of the
oldest parts of the church.

Interior. The nave, completed in 1456, the W. transept, and the
choir are embellished with splendid stained glass and a graceful triforium.
Many of the chapels date from the 14-l5th cent., and, like the choir, are
adorned with polychrome painting. Beside the 1st chapel on the right is
a Tree of Jesse in stone (loth cent.) and in the chapel is a small 16th cent,
altar-piece. In the 'ind chapel is a fresco of the 15th cent, (restored), and
some of the others contain interesting sculptures. The ^'Choir Screen is
embellished with bas-reliefs (restored in the 19th cent.) referring to the
history of St. Quentin and his fellow-martyrs, SS. Victoricus and Gentianus,
all of whom are buried in the crypt.

In front of the church rises the statue, by Langlet, of Quentin
Dg^afowr (1704-88), the famous drawer in crayons, who was born at
St. Quentin. — Another native of St. Quentin, Henri Martin, the
historian (1810-83), is commemorated by a statue in front of the
Lycee (PI. B. 2), a handsome building at the end of the Rue du Palais-
de- Justice.

At No. 22, Rue Antoine - Lecuyer , to the right from Martin's
statue, is the Musee Lecuyer (PI. B, 2), containing a rich collection
of antiquities and works of art, including a series of crayons by
Delatonr (see above). The Musee is open free on Thurs. & Sun., 2-5
(1-4 in winter) 5 on other days on application, The public park of

105 Route 15. LE GATEAU. From Paris

St. Quentin, known as the Champs-Ely sees (PI. C, 3), lies to the E.
of the older quarters of the town.

From St. Quentin to Guise, 23 M., railway in IV4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 10,
2 fr. 10, 2 fr. 25 c). — IOV2 M. Ribem.ont (Etoile). an industrial town with
3850 inhabitants. — 25 M. Guise (Buffet-Hdtel; Couronne), an industrial town
with 80^2 inhab., is commanded by an ancient castle, part of which dates
from the l6th cent., now occupied by a small garrison. In 1339 the English,
under John of Hainault , burned the town , but were unable to make
themselves masters of the castle, which was courageously defended by the
wife of its lord, no other than the daughter of John of Hainault himself.
The town has been several times besieged and taken since then. Guise
was the birthplace of Camille Desmoulins (1762-94), the revolutionary. In
the Rue de Cambrai is the exceedingly interesting Familist^re , or'com-
munistic workmen's colony, including a Phala?isth-e , or large common
dwelling-house for the members, founded about 1850 by J. B. Godin (d. 1888)
on the plan advocated by Fourier. Visitors are warmly welcomed. —
Railway to Laon and Valenciennes (see p. Ill and below); another to Hirson
(p. 100) is under construction.

Another line runs to (20 M.) Roisel (Velu, Bapaume, and Achiet; p. 72),
via C7'/2 M.) Vermand^ which some authorities identify with the Augusta
Veromanduorum of the Romans (p. 104).

IO8V2 M. Bohain (Hotel du Word), an ancient town with 7423
Inhah., many times besieged and captured between 1183 and 1815.

— 112 M. Busigny (Buffet; Hot. du Nord).

A branch-line runs from Busigny to (35 M.) Hirson, passing various
places of industrial importance, including (8^/2 M.) Wassigny, also a station
on the line from Valenciennes to Laon via Guise (see p. 111). — 35 M.
Hirson, see p. 100.

From Busigny to Cambrai and Somain, see pp. 71, 74.

Beyond Busigny our line diverges to the right from the line to
Cambrai and crosses the valley of the Selle by a viaduct 85 ft. high.

118 M. Le Cateau (*Mouton Blanc), a town with 10,450 inhab.,
on the Selle, with important woollen and merino spinning-mills,
derives Its name from an ancient chateau, originally built about
the 11th cent, by the Bishops of Cambrai. A peace between England,
France, and Spain, was signed here in 1559. A bronze statue has
been erected here to Marshal Mortier, a native of the town (b. 1768),
killed at Paris in 1835 by Fieschi's infernal machine.

A railway runs from I.e Cateau to (16 M.) Cambrai, passing (71/2 M.)
Caudry-Camhrisis (8000 inhab.), Avhence there is a branch-line to (ISVe M.)
Le Catelet, via (2 M.) Caudry-Nord and (8 M.) Walincourt (2317 inhab.). —
The railway proceeds to the E. of Caudry to (6 M.) ra^i7/0H (23!i7 inhab.).

Le Cateau is also a station on the line from iMon to Valenciennes via
Guise and Solesmes (see p. HI).

122 M. Ors. The valley of the Sambre is now entered. — 125 M.
Landrecies (Hotel de VEurope) , a fortress on the Sambre , with
4069 inhab., was the birthplace of Bupleix (1697-1764). founder
of the French power in IiKlla. who is commemorated by a bronze
statue, by Fagel. — We enter the Forest of Aror7r}a^22, 300 acres").

— 129 M. Hachette (Maroilles). — Beyond (132 M.) Sassegnies we
cross the Sambre and pass under the line to Valenciennes. To the
right is the line from Anor to Hirson; to the left is Berlaimont, near
which is Anlnoye, about 1' 4 M. from its station.

A

to Namur. MAUBEUGE. 15. Route. 107

134 M. Aulnoye (Buffet- Hotel). Railway from Yalenciennes to
Hirson (Calais-Nancy), see R. 14.

The main line continues to follow the valley of the Sambre.
crossing the river several times. — 139 M. Hautmont (Hot. du Com-
merce), an industrial town with 11,336 inhabitants. At (141 M.)
Sous-le-Bois the line to Mons (see below) diverges to the left.

142 M. Maubeuge (Buffet- Hotel; Grand Cerf,- du Nord; Paste),
a fortress of the first class , situated on both banks of the Sambre,
with 19,800 inhab. , owes its origin to a nunnery and monastery,
founded in the 7th cent, by St. Aldegonda. The veil and a sandal
of the saint are preserved in the church. Maubeuge became the
capital of Hainault, and passed to France by the peace of Nimwegen
in 1678. In 1793 the town was invested by the prince of Saxe-
Coburg, but it was relieved by the battle of Wattignies (a hamlet
7V2 M. to the S.), commemorated since 1893 by a Monument in the
town. In 1815, after the battle of Waterloo, it was for(;ed to cap-
itulate. It carries on very extensive manufactures of tools, im-
plements, horse-shoes, and other metal goods. The painter Jan Gos-
saert (1470-1532), perhaps better known as Mabuse, was a native
of the town.

Fkom Maubeuge to Mons (Brussels), 13 M., railway in 1-2 hrs. — 1 M.
Sous-le-Bois (see above). — 1^4 M. Feignies (Buffet) is the last French station.
About 1^/4 M. to the W. is Malplaquet, where Marshal Villars was defeated
in 1709 by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene, and where General
Pichegru defeated the Duke of York in 1794. — The Belgian custom-house
examination takes place at (6V2 M.) Quivy (Buffet). Belgian time (Greenwich
time) is 4 min. behind Parisian time. — 9 M. Frameries. Beyond (12 M.)
Cuesmes we traverse the coal-fields of Mons, the richest in Belgium. —
13 M. Mons (Hdtel de la Couronne; de rEspirance ; Schmilz), Flem. Berge?i,
the capital of Hainault, with 25.300 inhab., has a fine Cathedral (1460-1589),
a Belfry of 1662, a Hotel de Ville of the 15th cent., etc. For farther details,
and for the railway from Mons to Brussels, see Baedeker''s Belgium and
Holland.

Feom Maubeuge to Hirson (Cousolre), 33V2 M., railway in V/2 hr.
(fares 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 65 c). — From (81/2 M.) Ferriire-la-Grande a
branch runs to Consolre, a town 6V2 M. to the E., with marhle-quarriea
and surrounded with woods and ponds. — IOV2 M. Sars-Poieries, with
important glass-works. A branch-line is to he constructed to Avesnes
(p. 100). — 13 M. Solve - le - Chdteau no longer possesses the chateau to
which it owes its name. The Church (15th cent.) has good old stained
glass ; the Mairie and some other houses date from the 16th century. —
At (I7V2 M.) Liessies is an ancient abbey-church of the 16th century. The
Forest of Tr^lon, 7400 acres in extent, which we next traverse, recalls in
many places the environs of Spa. 25^/2 M. Fourmies (p. 100): 28V2M. Anor
(p. 111). - 331/2 M. Hirson, see p. 100.

From Maubeuge to Valenciennes, see p. 82.

146 M. Recquignies , with mirror-works. — 148 M. Jeumont
(Buffet) is the last French station. Passengers' luggage coming from
Belgium is examined here, unless booked through to Paris.

150 M. Erquelines (Buffet- Hotel). Luggage, not registered to
pass through Belgium, is here examined by the Belgian custom-
house officers. Belgian time (Greenwich time) is 4 min. behind Paris
time. The railway continues to follow the valley of the Sambre. —

108 Route 15. LAON. From Paris

158 M. Thuin, a small town prettily situated on a hill to the right.
Five more unimportant stations.

168 M. Charleroi (Buffet; Hotel Beukelers), a manufacturing
town and fortress , with about 23,000 inhah. , was founded by
Charles II. of Spain in 1666.

The train now passes several stations still in the valley of the
Sambre. — 177 M. Tamines is the junction for Dinant (2d M.),
rieurus (51/2 M.), etc.

191 M. Namur, see p. 114.

b. VIS, Soissons, Laon, and Anor.

195 M. Railway in 73/4-13 hrs. (fares about 31 fr. 85, 22 fr. 15, 14 fr. 60 e. ;
no through-tickets). Trains start from the Gare du Nord (see p. 115).

From Paris to (65M.) «Soissons, seepp.115, 116. The line to Laon
diverges to the left from that to Rheims, and crosses the Aisne. Fine
view of Soissons. — 671/2 M. Crouij ; 71 M. Margival. Then, beyond
a tunnel 700 yds. long, (74 M.) Vauxaillon. — 76 M. Anizy-Pinon.

Railway to Chatimj , see p. 104. — A diligence plies from Anizy to
(5 M.) Pr^montri^ formerly celebrated for its Abbey^ founded by St. Noribert
in 1120, and the mother-house of the Pr;i?monstratensian order of canons
regular, who followed the rule of St. Augustine. The present buildings,
dating from the 18th cent., are occupied as a lunatic asylum. — St. Gobain
(p. 104) is 41/2 51. farther on.

80 M. ChaUvet-Urcel. Urcel , 172^^- to t^6 S., has a curious
church of the ll-13th centuries. The town of Laon comes in sight
on the right. At (84 M.) Clacy-Mons we join the line from Tergnier.

87 M. Laon. — The Railway Station is in the lower part of the
town, about 3/4 M. from the centre (steep ascent; omnibus 50 c.), but a
connecting branch is about to be opened (comp. Plan).

Hotels. Dk la Mure (PI. a; C, 1), Rue du Kourg ; Eod -de -France
(PI. b; C, 1), DE LA BANNifiRE (PI. c; C, 1), Ruc David, pens. 8 fr. ; *du
NoRD (PI. d; D, 1), opposite the station, pons. TVs fr. — Cafes. De la
Comddie, Place de rHotel-de-Ville; at the Hdtel du A'^07-d, see above.

Cabs. From the station to the town 1 fr. : per drive 75 c. ; per hr,
IV2 fr. (2 fr. beyond the octroi-limits). Double fare after 11 p.m.

Laon, a fortress of the third class, with 14,629 inhab., is the
capital of the department of the Aisne^ and from before 500 till
1789 was the seat of a bishop, second in rank to the Archbishop of
Rheims alone. The town is built in the midst of an extensive plain,
on a long, isolated hill running E. and W., and curving towards the
S. at the W. end so as to form the curious valley mentioned at p. 110.

Laon is the Lauduniim of the Romans. It was a favourite residence of
the later Carolingian kings. In the middle ages its history is mainly a re-
cord of the struggles of the townsmen to found their liberties and maintain
them against the encroachments of the bishops. The English occupied Laon
from 1410 till 1429-, and it suftered severely in the later religious wars and
the war of the League. In March, 1814, Napoleon was defeated under the
walls of Laon by Bliicher and compelled to fall back upon Soissons with
heavy Liss. In 1870 Laon capitulated to the Germans without a blow, but
as the latter were entering the citadel, a French private of engineers, named
Ilenriot, blew up the powder-magazine, killing 79 Germans and 229 French-
men (including Jiimseif), and working considerable damage in the town.

. AT T.AON 15. Route. 109

to Namur. i^aui^.

- Laon was the birthplace of the Abbe Marquette who discovered the
MisSppY in 1673, and of Marshal Seruner (see below).

The carriage-road ascends in curves to the left from the end of
the a enue opposite the Station (PL D, 1); hut pedestrians may
mount directly to the (74^^.) heginning of the town, hy "^eans ot a
stairway with 263 steps, interrupted occasionally hy inclined planes
A mTle flZr on we\urn to the left into the Rue du Bourg, which

leads to tje cathedral. . ,. r ., r ^^r, ,ia;w

On the right side of the street is the puhlic Library (open daily
1 to 4 or 5 except Sun. & holidays), a short distance beyond which
is the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville (PL C, 1), erahellished with a bronze
Sfafue o/-Mar./miSemn6r (1742-1819), hyDouhlemard.

The Rue da Bourg, continued hy the Rue Chatelaine, leads to the
church of *Notre-Dame (PI. D,2), still called the Cathedral though
the bishopric of Laon was suppressed at the Revolution. A church
existed on this line site at the heginning of the 12th cent., but it was
burned down in 1112, and the present building, one of the most
interesting churches in the N. of France, dates from t^/ l^'Uth
centuries. It has been thoroughly restored by E-^^/^^^^l^^^^^^^^^^^-lV^^
The length of the church (outside measurement) is 397 ft, the breadth
across the nave is 67 ft. , across the transepts 178 ft ; the vaulting is
78 ft hio-h. The characteristic feature of this church is its fine group
of lofty towers and spires. The ''Facade, a masterpiece of pure Gothic
is flanked by two bold and graceful towers, 180 ft. high, which
were originally surmounted by spires. The lower part of these
towers is square, the upper octagonal, while above the buttresses at
the angles rise belfries of two stories, adorned on the second story
with figures of oxen, in memory of the animals who dragged the
stones from the plain to the site of the building. It was originally
intended to erect two similar towers at each end of the transepts,
but only two of these have been completed (190 ft. high), ihe
square lantern-tower above the crossing, 130 ft. high, is now crowned
by a low pyramidal roof instead of the original tall spire.

The iNTEiuoR vies in interest with the exterior. The transepts are also
divided into nave and aisles, which, like tliose of t^^^. °f7^/^se ^ , are
separated hy substantial cylindrical columns, ^^"^^ the capitals of which (al
sculptured differently) slender columns "^e to the vaulting. The ^^les
are furnished with lofty galleries beneath the triforium; the chapels at
the sides were added in the 13-14th cent., hut the screens at the entrances
filled into the arcades of the former windows, date f''«™^ the Ifa-lTth cent
uries. At the end of each transept is an ancient chapel of two stories.
The E. end of the choir, pierced hy a rose-window and three other win-
dows is square, as in English cathedrals, a form which frequently recurs
?n the chuVches of this diocese and is said to he ^-^./o the influence of
an Englishman who held the see in the early part of JJie 12th century
There are rose-windows also above the W. and^. P^^tals but not above
the S. portal. The stained glass in the rose-wmdows and in the wmdows
on the S? side is good. The carved wooden pulpit dates from the Renaissance.
The Palais de Justice (PL D, 2), to the left of the choir, was
formerly the bishop's palace (13th cent.). It retains a few remnants
of a Gothic cloister.

110 Route 15. LAON. From Paris

The Ruelle des Templiers, the second street to the right of the
Hue du Cloitre beyond Notre-Dame, leads us into another parallel
street running from the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville to the Citadel (PI.
E, 2; uninteresting).

Opposite the 'Ruelle' is the Musee (PI. D, 2), in a building at
the side of a garden surrounding a Chapel of the Templars, of the
12th century. The Musee is open to the public on Thurs. & Sun.,
1-6 (1-4 in winter); on other days on application. It contains
antiquities discovered in the neighbourhood (mosaic of Orpheus and
the animals, of the 2nd cent. A.D.), small bronzes, antique vases,
and some ancient and modern paintings. The marble statue of
Gabrielle d'Estre'es (d. 1599), mistress of Henri IV, is noteworthy.

From the Promenades to the S. of tlie Muse'e a charming *View
is obtained of the opposite side of the hill of Laon, entirely different
from that commanded by the station. The hill here, with its steep
sides, encloses a V-shaped valley or ravine, partly wooded and
partly covered with gardens and vineyards, which is known as the
Cuve de St. Vincent (PI. B, C, 2). The 13th cent. Gothic gateway
seen here {^Porie d'Ardon; PI. D, 2) is a relic of the early fortifica-
tions. Farther to the W. is the Prefecture (PL C, D, 2), in the former
Abbaye St. Jean. A street leads hence to the Place de I'Hotel-de-
Ville , near which is the Porte des Chenizelles (PI. 0, 2) , another
13th cent, gateway (restored in 1895). Other interesting old build-
ings are to be seen in different parts of the town.

The Rue St. Jean and Rue St. Martin lead from the Place del'IIotel-
de-Ville to the Church of St. Martin (Pi. B, 1, 2), at the other end of
the town, an ancient collegiate church in the Transition style, with two
transeptal towers, built in the 13th century. In the interior, to the
right of the entrance, is a tomb in black marble, with a recumbent
statue, erroneously described as that of a Sire de Coucy (p. 104). The
white marble tomb opposite has a line statue representing the widow
of one of the Sires de Coucy, who died as an abbess in 1333. A chapel
on the S. side of the nave, with a stone screen of the Renaissance
period, contains an Ecce Homo of the 16th century. The modern
pulpit and the ancient choir-stalls deserve notice.

In the neighbourhood is the Lycee (Pl.B, 2), a modern building.
Outside the town on this side, at the S. end of the heights forming
the 'cuve', is the former Abbaye St. Vincent (PI. B, C, 3), now oc-
cupied by military engineers.

From Laon to Liart (Miziires-Charleville), 37 M., in ii/j hr. — This
line runs via (8 M.) Liesse (Trois Rois; Cheval Blanc), a village famous for
the miraculous image of Notre-Dame-de-Liesse, dating from the 12th cent.,
which has long been a favourite object of pilgrimages. The church was
built in the 14-15th centuries. — Several small stations are passed, includ-
ing (21 M.) Montcornet, a small town with a ruined mediiiJval chateau and
remains of fortifications of the IGth century. — 37 M. Liart (p. IOC, is the
present terminus ; but the line is to be carried on to Toumes (,\?^l-i M. j
p. 100), where it will join the railway from Hirson to Miziires.

From Laon to Valenciennes, 70 M., railway in 2-4V4hrs. (fares I2fr. 75,
8 fr. 55, 5 fr. 55 c). This recently completed" line aflfords an alt.-mative

"et&^aimii '

TirleTCLOirt.

5°Est de Greenyr.

to Namur. VERVINS. 16. Route. HI

route lietweeii Valenciennes and Paris, with an express service (1st & 2n(i cl.)
either way. — After quitting Laon a number of unimportant stations are
passed. At (12 M.) Mesbrecourt we cross the Serre, an affluent of the Oise,
and at (28 M.) Flavigny-le- Grand we enter the valley of the Oise. — 31 M.
Guise, see p. JOB. — The Oise is crossed, and several small stations are
passed. — From (41/2 M.) Wassigny, on the line from Busigny to Hirson,
express-trains run direct via (46 M.) St. Souplet to Le Cateau, while other
trains make a detour via Busigny. — 48V'2 ^i- I-e Cateau, see p. 106. —
To the right is the line to Maubeuge (p. 106). — 54 M. Solesmes (Soleil
d'Or), a linen-manufacturing place with 6322 inhabitants. To Cambrai
and Bavay, [see p. 82. — We continue to traverse an industrial district,
passing numerous stations. — 65 M. Prouvy-Thiant is the junction for So-
main via Lourches. — 70 M. Valenciennes., see p. 79.
Railway from Amiens to Bheims., see R. 13.

Beyond Laon the line to Hirson soon diverges to the left from
that to Kheims. From (96 M.) Dercy-Mortiers a branch-line runs
to La Fere (p. 98). We ascend the valley of the Serre. Beyond
(102 M.) Marie the train passes from the valley of the Serre to that
of the VUpion. — 111 M. Vervins (Lion d'Or), a town with 3351
inhab. and the remains of former fortifications , is noted for the
treaty concluded here in 1598 between Henri IV and Philip IL of
Spain. Basket-making and straw -plaiting are carried on by the
inhabitants. — 119 M. Origny-en-ThieradieT La Tklerache was the
name given to this district because from 596 to 613 it formed part
of the domains of Thierry, King of Burgundy. Its capital was Guise
(p. 106). — The valley of the Than is now crossed by means of a
viaduct, 60 ft. high.

123 M. Hirson (Buffet), see p. 100. — 1261/2 M. Anor (Cloche
d'Or ; de la Gare), a picturesquely situated town with 4560 inhab.
Railway to Aulnoye and Valenciennes, see pp. 100-99. Our line leaves
the latter to the left, and turns towards the E. — 132 M. Momignies
is the first Belgian station (custom-house examination). — 140 M.
Chhnay (Hot. de I'Univers), a town with 3000 inhab., has a chateau
belonging to the Prince of Chimay and a statue of Froissart^ the
chronicler (d. 1410). — 150 M. Mariembourg. Railway to (297-2 M.)
Charleroi, see p. 108; to (IOV2 M.) Vireux, see p. 113. — 158 M.
liomeree.^ the junction for (3hatelineau-Morialme'. — 164 M. Doische.
Branch to Givet (p. 113). — 165 M. Agimont-Village. At (169 M.)
Hastiere we join the line from Givet to Namur (p. 113).

c. Vii Soissons, Rheims, and Mezieres.

228 M. Railway in 81/4-131/4 hrs. ISlo through- tickets. Fares from Paris
to Givet about 35 fr. 25, 23 fr. 85, 15 fr. 50 e. ; from Givet to Namur 4 fr. 5,
3 fr. 5, 2 fr. 5 c. Trains start from the Gare du Nord , though between
Soissons and Givet the Chemin de Fer de FEst is traversed.

From Paris to (154 M.) Mezieres-Charleville, see RR. 16, 18d.

The railway soon begins to descend the picturesque *Valley of the
Meuse, at the E. extremity of the Ardennes, a region formerly famous
for its forests, and containing on this side hills nearly 1500 ft. high. The river
pursues its capricious course between lofty slate-cliffs, raising their steep
wood-clad slopes to the height of several hundred feet, and often approach-

1\2 Route 15. REVIN. From Paris

ing so close as to leave no room even for a footpath beside the river. The
railway-journey through this beautiful region is very interesting and com-
mands constantly varying, though often only too momentary, views as the
train crosses and recrosses the meandering stream. Some of the finest
points, moreover, are passed in the train hy means of tunnels, so that it is
advisable to visit them on foot, e.g. the country between Montherme and,
Fvimay, and the neighbourhood of Dinant. The valley is enlivened by
numerous iron-works, nail-works, and other industrial establishments.

The railway now follows the right hank of the Meuse to near
Montherme, traversing the peninsula of Mont Olympe (see helow).
158 M. Nouzon, picturesquely situated, with 6600 inhah., is an
important centre of the metallic industry of the valley. 161 M.
Joigny-sur-Meuse. — 164 M, Braux-Levrezy. The station is at
Levrezy; Braux is on the opposite hank of the river. The line now
enters one of the most picturesque parts of the valley. The Rockers
des Quatre-Fils-Aymon are pierced hy a tunnel 560 yds. long.
The 'Four Sons of Aymon', Renaud, Guiscard, Adelard, and Richard,
'preux chevaliers' of the court of Charlemagne, are the heroes of
various remarkable adventures related in numerous chansons and
legends of the middle ages. They were in the hahit of riding one
hehind the other on -the wonderful horse Bayard, presented to
them hy the fairy Orlande. — I641/2 ^- Montherme- Chdteau-Reg-
nault-Bogny, the station for the industrial villages of Chdteau-Reg-
nault on the right hank, and Bogny on the left.

Montherme (Hdtel de la Faix, by the bridge), an industrial village with
4150inhab. and extensive slate-quarries, lies about 2 31. to the N., but a
tramway (20 c.) runs from the station to (IV4 M.) Lavaldieu, in the same
direction. The village occupies a peculiar site, at the head of a loop formed
here by the Meuse, not far from its junction with the Semoy^ which enters
it at Lavaldieu (see below).

The heights of the neighbouring peninsula command fine views. We
may descend thence, on the S.W., to the station of (3 M.)i)ert«e (see below).
A preferable route leads to the N.W. to (SVa M.) Laifour (see below).
Pedestrians will find the valley interesting as far as Revin, 6 M. farther
on. The route follows the 5Ieuse, and beyond Laifour comes in sight of the
Dames de Meuse (see below). 3 M. Anchamps ; 3 M. Bevin (see below).

The Valley of the Semoy, still more sinuous than that of, the Meuse,
offers many picturesque points, especially in its lower part. A carriage
road traverses the French part of the valley, passing Lavaldieu^ Thilay
(31/2 M.), and Les Hautes-Rivicres (8 M.; Hotel). — The excursion should
certainly be extended to Bohan (inn), the first Belgian village, or even to
Bouillon (p. 181).

Beyond Montherm^ station we cross to the left hank of the
Meuse hy means of a hridge and a tunnel 1/2 M. long, penetrating
the peninsula of Montherme'. — 167 M. Deville, with large slate
quarries. On the right rise the fine Cliffs of Laifour. Beyond
(1691/2 M.) Laifour are a hridge and a tunnel, 540 yds. long. On the
left are the Cliffs of the Dames de Meuse. Another hridge and tunnel.

174 M. Revin [Hot. Latour, de la Gare, both at the station), an
industrial town with 4690 inhah., occupies, with the suhurh con-
taining the station, two peninsulas formed hy the river. It has
two suspension-hridges. The Mont Malgre-Tout (1310 ft.), to the
E., commands a splendid view.

to Namur. GlVET. 15. Route. 113

A Diligence (IV2 fr.) plies from Revin to Rocroi (Hotel du Commerce),
a fortified town with 21^0 inhab., situated on a plateau about 1300 ft.
above the sea-level, 8 M. to the W. It is noted for a brilliant victoi-y
won by Condu over the Spaniiirds in 1643, but contains nothing of interest.

— An omnibus plies also from Rocroi to Le Tremhlois (p. 100).

The railway crosses the Meuse once more and traverses tlie istli-
rnus of lievin. A subterranean cantd about 1000 yds. long also
crosses the isthmus, cutting off the circuit of 3 M. made by the river.

180 M. Fumay (Hotel de la Gare), a town with 5280 inhab., is
situated about 3/^ M. to the N,E. of the station (omu. 25 c), on au
oval-shaped peninsula. It contains several important iron-works,
and in the neighbourhood are the largest slate -quarries in the
valley. The Church is a handsome modern Gothic erection.

Beyond Fumay the train enters a tunnel, 600 yds. long, from
which it emerges on the bank of the river near the town. 183 M.
UayUs, also with slate-quarries. 187 M. Vireux-Molliain is the
junction of a line to Charleroi via Mariembourg (p. 111). In the dis-
tance, to the left, appears the picturesque ruined Chateau des Hicrges.

— 189 M. Aubrives. A little farther on the river makes another
bend, cut off by the railway and a partly subterranean canal. We
approach Givet by a tunnel below the citadel.

194 M. Givet (Buffet; Grand Hotel d'Anyleterre, new, R. 2-4,
B. 11/4, dej. or D. 31/2 fr. incl. wine; Mont-d^Or; Ancre), with
7100 inhab., is situated on both banks of the Meuse, about 1/2 ^^•
to the right of the station. The fortifications were demolished in
1892, with the exception of the citadel of Charlemont, perched on a
rock 700 ft. high, on the W. side, and so called because founded by
Charles V. Givet became French at the close of the 17th century.
The composer MehuL (1763-1817) was born here, and a statue was
erected to him in 1892 near the station. The best view of the
])icturesque town is obtained from the bridge uniting it with Givet-
Notre-Dame , the suburb on the right bank. The citadel, which
commands another fine view, is reached by a rough path ascending
from the S.E. side of the town, or by a carriage-road from the sta-
tion, crossing the line and ascending to the N.

At Fromelennes, 2^/2 M. to the E., is the Trou de Nichet, a curiou.s
cavern accessible to visitors. — From Givet an omnibus (1 fr.) plies daily
to (6 M.) Beauraing^ whence a visit may be paid to Han-sur-Lesse and the
grottoes at Rochefort (see p. 114).

Givet is the last French station. The railway still follows the
valley of the Meuse. The line to Doische (p. Ill) diverges to the
left. — The Belgian custom-house is at (199 M.) Heer-Agimont.
Belgian time (Greenwich time) is 4 min. behind French time. The
line to Hirson (p. Til) diverges to the left. — 2OI1/2 M. Hastiere;
205 M. Waulsort. The banks of the Mense again become rocky and
picturesque. On the left is the Chateau de Freyr, and farther on the
Wood of Freyr, with a stalactite grotto (adm. 1 fr.). On the op-
posite bank lies Anseremme, at the mouth of the Lesse (p. 114);
and on the same side is the bold and isolated rock known as the

Baedekek's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 8

114 Route 15. DINANT.

lioche a Bayard (the name of the horse of the Quatre Fils Aymon
see p. 112).

211 M. Dinant (*H6tel des Fostes ; '■''THe d'Or)^ a town with
7400 inhah., is very picturesquely situated at the base of barren
limestone cliffs, the summit of which is crowned by a fortress. The
church of Notre-Dame is a handsome edifice of the 13th cent., in
the Gothic style. A flight of 408 steps ascends to the Citadel {sidim.
50 c); attractive but limited view. The cliff-scenery of the neigh-
bourhood is interesting. See Baedeker's Belgium and Holland.

From Dinant to Eochefort (Han ; Jemelle^, 2OV2 M., railway under
construction, opened to (18 M.) Eprave^ which is 21/2 M. from the Grotte
de Han (see below). Rochefort (ffdtel Biron; Etoile) is a small town
notable chiefly for its ^^Orotto. one of the largest limestone caverns known
(adm. 4 fr., reduction for parties). An omnibus plies regularly in summer
from Rochefort to Han-sur-Lesse (Bellevue), about B^/2 M. to the S.W.,
which has a still larger cavern, the 'Grotte de Han, through which the
Lesse forces its way (adm. Tfr. ; two or more 5 fr. each). For farther
details and for the railway from Eochefort to (2V2 M.) Jemelle and (35V2 M.)
Namur^ etc., see Baedeker^s Belgium and Holland,

Beyond Dinant, to the left, lies Bouvigne, one of the most an-
cient towns of the district, formerly engaged in constant feuds with
Dinant. The old ruined tower of Crevecoeur is conspicuous here.
Farther on , near the ruined chateau of Poilvache^ the line crosses
the Meuse. — 216 M. Yvoir, about 1 1/2 M. to the W. of which is the
ruined castle of '^Montaigle, the finest relic of the kind in Belgium.
— Then, on the left the Roche aux Corneilles ('Koche aux Chauwes'
in the patois of the district), so called from the flocks of jackdaws
which usually hover near it. — Beyond a tunnel is the station of
Taillefer. — On the left the old citadel of Namur is seen; on the
right diverges the line to Luxembourg. The Meuse is crossed for the
last time; to the right is the railway to Lioge.

228 M. Namur (* Hotel d'Har scamp), the strongly fortified capital
of the province, with 32,000 inhab., lies at the confluence of the
Samhre and the Meuse. The chief building is the Cathedral, erected
in the 18th century. Near the station is a Statue of Leopold /., by
Geefs. See Baedeker's Belgium and Holland.

16. From Paris to Rheims.

a. Vi^ Meaux and La Ferte-Milon.

97 M. Railway (Gare dc lE.sf; PI. 0, 24) in 2-4 hrs. (fare.'; 17 fr. 00.
11 fr. 90, 7 fr. 70 c).

From Paris to (317-2 M.) Trilport, see R. 19. The Rheims line
diverges to the N. from that to Chalons, and beyond (35^2 M.)
Isles-Armentieres crosses the Marne and then ascends the valley of
the Ourcq. Three small stations.

50 M. La Ferte-Milon (Hot. du Sauvage), a small town on the
Ourcq, was the birthplace of i^acine (1639-99), the dramatist, to
whom a statue, by David d'Angeis, has been erected here. The

VILLERS-COTTERETS. 16. Route. 115

ruins of the Castle, including one entire side and four large towers,
date mainly from the 14th century. The churches of St. Nicolas
(Gothic and Renaissance) and Notre- Dame (12th and 16th cent.)
contain good stained glass of the 16th cent., etc.

Branch-lines run hence to (81/2 M.) Villers-Cotterets (see below) and to
(I71/2 M.) Chdieau-Thierry (p. 138) via Oulchy-Breny (see below).

57 M. NeuiUy-St-Front. — 6IV2 M. Oulchy-Breny. — 68 M.
Fere-en-Tardenois (Hot, du Pot dfEtain) has an interesting church.
On a hill, 1^/4 M. to the N., rises a picturesque ruined Castle, built
in the 13th cent., but altered in the 16th by the Constable Anne de
Montmorency. — Beyond Fere the train (|uits the valley of the Ourcq
by means of a long and deep cutting. — 75 '/2 ^' Mont-Notre-Dame,
■with a church of the 12-13th cent, and an 18th cent, chateau. We
cross the VesLe, aud join the line from Soissons (see below). —
771/2 M. Bazoches, with a ruined castle (12-1 3th cent.). — 71 M.
Fismes, a small town, the Fines Suessionum of the Romans. The
railway from Epernay is seen on the right. — 97 M. Rheims (Buffet),
see p. 118.

b. ViS. Soissons.

991/2 M. Railway (Gare duNord; PI. B, C, 2 5, 24) in 'l^ji-i^U hrs. (fares
17 fr. 55, 11 fr. 90, 7 fr. 70 c.). — For farther details as far as Crcpy-en-
Valois, see Baedeker^s Handbook to Paris.

The train traverses the district of La Chapelle, quits Paris near
St. Ouen, and at (2'/2M.) La Plalne-St- Denis diverges to the right
from the main Ligne du Nord. 47-2 M. Aubervilliers-la-Courneuve.
— 6 M, Le Bourget-Drancy. Le Bourget, to the left, was the scene
of sanguinary struggles between the French and Germans on Oct. 28
-30th and Dec. 24th, 1870, in which the former were repulsed. —
We now cross the Ligne de Grande Ceinture and reach (9 1/2 M.)
Aulnay-les-Bondy (p. 136). On the right is the forest of Bondy.
The train skirts the Canal de V Ourcq. — 21 1/2 ^1- Dammartin, near
which is the College de Juilly, founded by the Oratorians in the
17th century. — 26 '/^ M. Le Plessis-Belleville. In the park of the
chateau of Ermenonville, 3 M. to the left (omnibus, 1 fr.), is the
original tomb of Jean Jacques Rousseau, whose remains were re-
moved to the Panthe'on at Paris in 1794.

40 M. Crepy-en-Valois [Trois Pigeons, unpretending) was the
ancient capital of a district which belonged from the 14th cent, to
a younger branch of the royal family of France. Branch-railways to
Chantilly and Compiegne, see pp. 101, 103.

421/2 M. Vaumoise. — 48V2 M. Villers-Cotterets (Buffet; Hotel
du Dauphin), with 4772 inhab,, was the birthplace of Alexandre
Dumas the Elder (1802-70), to whom a statue, by A. Carrier-Bell-
euse, was erected here in 1885. The ancient Chateau, rebuilt under
Francis I. but disfigured in the 18th cent., is now a poor-house.

A branch-line runs hence through the Forest of Villers-Cotterets (pleas-
ant excursions) to (8V2 M.) La FerUl-Milon (p. 114). — Railway to Pierre-
fonds and Compiegne, see p. 103.

8*

116 Boute 16. SOISSONS. From Paris

56 M. Longpont (hotels) has a ruined ahbey, dating from the
12th century. — Beyond (58Y-2 M.) Vierzy the train traverses a
tunnel, upwards of ^/^ M, in length, and reaches (62 M.) Berzy.
On the left runs the line from Compiegne to Soissons.

65 M. Soissons. — Hotels. Lion EougE; Rue St. Martin 57, R. 3-0,
]5. lV4-iV2, dej. 3, D. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr.; Croix' d'Oe, Rue St. diristoplie;
SoLEiL uOit. — Caf^ dn Commerce, Rue de la Buerie^ Buffet^ witli bed-
rooms, at the station, dej. 21/4-3, D. 2V4-3V2 fr.

Cabs. Per drive 1-2 peis. 75c., 3 pers. 1 fr. 10, 4 pers. 1 fr. 51U-.;
outside the octroi-limits and also per hr., I1/2, 2, or 272 fr.

Soissons, an ancient town formerly fortified, with 12,373 inhah.,
is situated on the Aisne, 1/2 ^^- ^^(^^ the station. It carries on a
considerable grain-trade, and is noted for its haricot-heans.

Soissons is generally identified with iV^orioc^wiz/m, the chief town of the
Suessiones, mentioned by Casar, called under the early empire Augusta
Stiessmium, and afterwards Suessiona. It is celebrated for the defeat of the
Romans under Syagtius in 486 by Clovis. Under the Franks Soissons was an
important town and became the capital of 'Neustria. It enjoys an unenA-iable
notoriety for the great number of sieges it has undergone, the record only
closing in October, I8TO, when the Germans entered it after a bombardment
of three days. SS. Crispin and Crispinian are said to have suftered martyrdom
here in 297, and their successor St. Sinice is regarded as the first bishop
of Soissons. In 829, and again in 833, Lewis the Debonair was imprisoned
in the town by his undutiful sons.

Turning to the left as we enter the town proper, we reach the
ancient Abbey of St. Jean~des-Viynes^ in which Thomas a Becket
spent nine years. The chief part now remaining is the *Portal
or W. facade, in the style of the 13th cent., flanked by handsome
towers of a later date (15-16th cent.), rising with their spires to the
height of 230 and 245 ft. — The first side-street to the left as we re-
turn from the abbey leads to the centre of the town.

The '''Cathedral, which rises on the right a little farther on, is a
fine example of mixed Kom.anesque aud Gothic of the 12-13th ( ent-
uries. The W. facade, with three doors and a beautiful Gothic rose-
window, is flanked on the S. side by a tower 215 ft. high. There is
a curious antique portal on the S. side, terminating in an apse, and
adjoined by a circular sacristy of two stories. The admirably propor-
tioned interior of the church contains some tapestry of the 15th cent.,
an Adoration of the Shepherds, attributed to Kubens, and a few tombs
of historical interest. The stained glass is good.

The Gothic House, Rue de la Buerie 12, beyond the cathedral,
and the Porte du College (14th cent.), in the Rue du College, may
be noticed.

The Theatre is situated in the Grande I'lace, to whi<h the street
skirting the front of the cathedral leads. From the Place we next
enter (to the right) a long street traversing the entire town, and
containing several edifices of interest. The Abbaye St. Leger, now
occupied by a seminary, was erected in the 13th cent., and still pos-
sesses remains of cloisters built in that and the following centuries.
The facade of the 'hur.h dates fron\ the 17th century. — The Hotel

to Metz. BRAISNE. 16. Route. 117

de Ville (ISth cent.), near the N.E. extremity of the town, contains
a library of 50,000 vols, on the groiindfloor, and a small Musee on
the first floor. The court is embellished with a bronze statue, by
Duret, of Paillet^ the advocate (d. 1855), a native of Solssons. —
The Ahbaye Notre-Dame, at the end of the Rue du Commerce, is
now used as a barrack. Founded originally in 660, this convent
contained in 858 no fewer than 216 nuns, who possessed a valuable
collection of MSS. and various sacred relics, including a shoe and a
girdle of the Madonna. The fame of St. Drausin, who was buried
in the abbey, and whose tomb was said to render invincible all who
spent a night upon it, rendered the church a' favourite resort of
pilgrims. — In the neighbouring Place de St. Pierre are the scanty
remains of the Romanesque Church of St. Pierre (12th cent.).

On the riyilit bank of the Aisne is situated the suburb of St. Vaast.,
and a little farther down is the hamlet of Si. Midard, famous for its once
powerful and wealthy abbey. This abbey played a leading part eveu under
the Merovingian and Carolingian Icings, and in 1530 it was visited by
300,000 pilgrims, its decline dates from the religious wars of the close of
the 16th cent. (1568), and its site is now occupied by a Deaf and Dumb
Asiilniii. Among the scanty remains of the old buildings are pointed out a.
cell in which Lewis the Debonair is said to have pined (833), and a toAver
reputed to have been the prison of Abelard. The inscription on the wall
of the former is not older than the 14th century.

Eailway to Compiegne, see p. 102; to Laoti, see p, 108.

Beyond Soissons the line to Rheims diverges to the right from
the Laon railway, and ascends the valley of the Aisne to (72 M.)
Ciry-Sermoise, where it enters that of its tributary the Vesle. — 76 M.
Braisne, a large village Y2 M. to the N.W., contains, in the *C]iurck
of St. Yved, one of the most interesting examples of early French
Gothic (12th cent.) as applied to country-churches in the N.E. of
France. This abbey-church strongly resembles in style the cathedrals
of Laon and Treves; but unfortunately the porch and part of the
nave have been destroyed. — 80 M. Bazoches, and thence to (99'/2 J^''^-)
Rheims (Buffet), see p. 115.

c. Via, Epernay.

107 M. Railway in 31/4-4^4 hrs. (fares as above). The trains start from
the Oare de TEst (PI, C, 24).

From Paris to (88 M.) Epeimay, see R. 19. — The railway to
Rheims trends to the left and crosses the Marne and the parallel
canal. At (90 M.) yly, or A'i (Hot. des Voyageurs), champagne of
excellent quality is produced, and we are now in the centre of the
champagne vineyards. 92 M. Avcnay. The country now becomes hilly
and wooded. Beyond (97 M.) Germaine we thread a tunnel 2 M.
long beneath the Mont Joli (900 ft.), the highest point of the so-
called Montague de Rheims. 100 M. Rilly-la-Moniagne is noted for
its red and white wines. We now have a distant view of Rheims to
the right. The train crosses the Vesle and the Aisne and Marne
Canal. — 107 M. Rheims (Buffet), see p. 118.

118

17. Rheims.

Hotels. *LiON d'Or (PI. b; C, 4), with first-rate cuisine and cellar, R,,
L., & A. 4-6, B. IV4-IV2, I>- 5 incl. wine, pens. 10-15 fr.; Grand Hoticl
(PI. a; C, 4); Maison Rouge (PI. c, C, 4) , R. & A. 3, dej, 31/2, D. 4fr.;
Du Commerce (PI. d; 0,3,4); tliese four near the cathedral. Hotel du
NoRD (PI. e; B, 3), Place Drouet 75. near the station; *de l'Europe, Rue
Biiirette 29 (PI. e ; B, 3-4), commercial, R. from 2, B. 3/4, dej. 2V2, D. 2V2 fr.
incl. wine, pens, from 6V2, omn. 1/2 fr. :, du Nord (PI. f : B, 3), Berger, Place
Drouet-d'Erlon 75 and 81: de Champagne, Boul. ue la Reyublique 43.

Cafes. De la Douane^ Place Royale; Je la Banqtie, Place de THotel-de-
Ville ; du Palais, Rue de Vcsle, opposite the theatre; (7o«r<o?5, Rue Talley-
rand 24. — Cafd-Concer/ du Casino, Rue de TEtapc 20. — Brasserie de Stras-
bourg, Rue de PEtape 18. — Restaurants. Au Chat Friand, Rue Nanteuil 4
(first turning' on the left in the Rue Ceres, as we come from the Place
Royale); Taverne Flamande, Rue de I'Etape 37, dej. 21/4, D. 21/2 fr. ; ^'Buffd,
at the station.

Cabs. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 1 fr., 3-4 pers. IV4 fr. ; with two horses , 1-4
pers. 1 fr. 40c.; at night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m., in winter 7a.m.) 1 fr. 40,
1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 90 c. Per hour, 2 fr., 2 fr. 25, 2 fr. 80 c. ; at night 2 fr. 80 c,
3 fr., 3 fr. 25 c. Each box 20 c.

Tramways (comp. the Plan). From the Avenue de Laon (PI. B, 1) to
the subui'b of Ste. Anne or Fle'chambault (PI. C, 6). 4 sections. — From
the suburb of Ceres (PI. E, 2) to the Avenue de Paris (PI. A, 4. 5), 4 sec-
tions. — From St. Thomas (PI. B, 1, 2) to St. Remi (PI. D, 5, 6), 3 sec-
lions. — From the Station (PI. B, 3) to Dieu-Lumiere (PI. D, E, 5, 6),
3 sections. Fares, 5 c. per section, with minimum of 10c. for 2nd cl.,
15 c. for 1st cl. and maximum of 15 and 20 c, including 'corrcspondancc'.

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. C, 3) , Rue de Ceres 30 (PI. c, 3) ; Rue
Gambetta 64; etc.

Baths. Bains de Santi, Bains Xeptune, Place Drouet-d'Erlon 52 and 59.

Banks. Banque de France, Place de THotel-de-Ville 1 ; Credit Lyonnais,
Rue Carnot 25.

U. S. Consul, William A. Prickitt, Esq.; vice consul, /. T. Crossle;/, Efq.

English Church, Rue des Moissons; services at 11 and 6. Chaplain,
Rev, John J. Pool. — French Reformed Church, Boul. du Temple. Chaplain,
Rev. W. Hunter. French service at 10, English at 5.

Rheims, or Reims^ one of the most historically interesting cities of
France, with 107,963 inhal)., is situated on the rijiht bank of the Vesle,
in a plain boundedby vine-clad hills. It is the chief centre of the trade
in champagne, and also carries on very important manufactures of
woollen and merino fabrics.

Rheims, the Civifas Remorum of C;fsar, was an important town even under
the Romans. The Vandals captured it in 406, aud martyred .St. Nicasius,
and Attila also destroyed the town. On Christmas Day, 496, Clovis was
baptised here by St. Remigius, Bishop of Rheims, with great magnificence.
In the 10th cent. Rheims was a centre of learning, and from the 12th cent,
it has been the place of coronation of the French kings (see p. 120). The
English attacked the town in vain in 1360, but it was ceded to them by
the Treaty of Troyes in 1420. Joan of Arc, however, again expelled
them and caused Charles VI 1. to be duly crowned here like his ancestor."^.
Rheims sided with the League, but after the battle of Ivry it opened its
gates to Henri IV. In the 16th cent. Rheims, where there was an Eng-
lish seminary, was a great centre of the Roman Catholic activity against
Queen Elizabeth and England. In 1870-71 it was occupied by the Germans,
who laid heavy requisitions upon it.

The washing and combing of the fine wools used in the manufacture
of merinos, cashmeres, and the line flannel for which Rheims is celebrat-
ed, are almost exclusively carried on in establishments owned by Eng-
lish firms. Messrs. Holdcn & Sou of Bradford, Yorkshire, have branches

RHEIMS. 27. Route. 119

licre and at Croix-Roubaix (p. 88). Connected with their Rheima estab-
lishment is a colony of about 100 English people, for whom the firm pro-
vides a church, schools, and a reading and recreation room.

In the square in front of the station (PI. B, 3) is a hronze statue,
hy Guillaume, of Colbert (1619-83), the illustrious minister of
Louis XIV., who was born at Kheims; and in the Place Drouet-
d'Erlon, flanked by arcades, which leads thence to the S.W. towards
the town, is a statue of Marshal Drouet-d' Erlon (1765-1834), also a
native of Rheims, by llochet. Beyond the Church of St. James (PI. B,
C, 4), dating from the 13th, 16th, and 18th cent., we reach the Rue
de Vesle, in which, to the left, are the Theatre and the Palais deJuS'
tice. The short street between these two buildings leads direct to
the cathedral, in front of which rises a small equestrian statue of
Joan of Arc, by Paul Dubois (1896).

The **Cathedral of Notre-Dame (PI. C, 4), one of the noblest
and most magnificent examples of the early-Gothic style, was
founded in 1212 and carried to its present state with hardly an in-
terruption by the architects Bob. de Coucy and J. d'Orbais (14th
cent.). The superb *V7. Facade, 'perhaps the most beautiful struc-
ture produced in the Middle Ages' (Fergusson), is adorned with three
exquisite recessed portals, containing about 530 statues, some of
which, however, have suffered from the ravages of time.

'Iv^othing can exceed the majesty of its deeply-recessed portals, the
beauty of the rose-window that "surmounts them, or the elegance of the
gallery that completes the facade and serves as a basement to the light
and graceful towers that crown the composition'' (Fergusson).

Though the tympana of the portals are, curiously enough, occupied
by rose-windows in lieu of sculptures, the sides and overhead vaulting
of the arches, as well as the gables above them, are most elaborately and
beautifully adorned with statues and carving. Central Portal : at the
sides and in the gable, Scenes from the life of the Virgin; in the vaulting,
Angels, ancestors of the Virgin, martyrs, and holy virgins; on the lintel
and jambs, the months aud seasons, etc. — Left Portal : at the sides, Pa-
tron-saints of the cathedral, guardian angels, the arts and sciences; on
the lintel. Conversion of St. Paul; in the gable vaulting and adjacent arch,
Scenes from the Passion , and the Invention of the Cross. — Right Portal :
at the sides, Patriarchs, Apostles, angels, vices, and virtues; on the lintel,
History of St. Paul; in the vaulting and adjoining arch. End of the world
(from the Apocalypse).

The facade above the portals is pierced by three large windows,
tlie magnificent *Rose Window in the centre being nearly 40 ft. in
diameter. Sculpture is also lavishly employed : to the left, Christ
in the guise of a pilgrim, to the right, the Virgin ; then, the Apostles,
David, Saul, History of David and Solomon, David and Goliath.
Still higher, extending quite across the facade, is a row of 42 colossal
statues in niches, representing the Baptism of Clovis, in the middle,
with the Kings of France at the sides. The two fine W. *Towers,
with their large windows and aerial turrets, are 267 ft. high. The
spires were destroyed in 1481 by a fire which consumed also five
others above the transepts, sparing, however, that (50 ft.) on the
ridge of the chevet, which is decorated with eight colossal statues.

The *iV. Portal, with statues of bishops of Rheims, Clovis, etc.,

120 Route 17. RHEIMS. Cathedral.

IS also very fine. Beside it is another doorway, now walled up, the
tympanum of which is filled with a masterpiece of the early-Gothic
period, representing the Last Judgment, the finest figure in which
is the 'Beau Dieu', or Christ in an attitude of benediction Many of
the figures have heen mutilated. The S. transept is adjoined hy the
hishop's palace, and has no portal. — Other noteworthy features of
the exterior are the statues in niches crowning the buttresses, the
fine flying buttresses themselves, and the open arcade just below
the spring of the roof.

Interior. The cliurch, wliicli is cruciform, is 453 ft. long, 9S ft. wide,
and 125 ft. high. The transepts are short, and are divided into nave and
aisles. They are placed nearer the P". apse than is usual in mediaeval
churches, a peculiarity which is counterbalanced by extending the choir so
as to embrace not only the crossing, but also two bays of the nave. As a
whole the interior is simpler than the exterior, except in the framework of
the portals, which are embellished with 122 statues in niches. The statues
at the principal portal represent the death of St. Kicasius, the fir^t arch-
bishop f)f Rheiins (p. 118). Most of the windows are lilled with line stained
glass of the 13th century. — In the nave and transepts are preserved some
A'aluable tapestry and several paintings. The former comprise the 'Tapisseries
■de Lenoncourt'', fourteen pieces representing scenes from the life of the
Virgin, and named after the donor (1530); two 'Tapisseries du Fort Roi
Clovis'', presented in 1573, but of a much greater antiquity; two 'Tapis-
series de Pepersack"' (lifteen others not shown), of the 17th cent.; and two
elaborate pieces of the 19th cent., after RaphaeFs cartoons of St. Paul at Lystra
imd St. Paul on Mars Hill. The following are the chief pictures: in the S.
transept. Nativity, by Tiniorcito; Christ appearing to Mary Magdalen, by
Titian; Christ and angels, hy Zucchero; Shower of Blanna, hv Pozissin. In
the N. transept. Baptism of Clovis, by Abel fie Pujol; Christ washing the
Disciples' feet, by Mutiano; Crucillxion, by Germain. — The Clock-, with
mechanical figures, in the N. transept, dates from the 16th century.

The Treaaurii is open 9-12 and 2-5 (Sun. & holidays 12.30-2) to visitor."^
l^rovi'led with tickets (50 c), to be obtained in the '.--acristie des chaises'
in the left transept. It contains some cosily reliquaries and church-plate, a
chalice and monstrances of the 12-14th cent., vessels and ornaments used
at the coronations of difTerent kings, and the Sainte Ampoule. The last is
the successor of the famous Ampulla Remensis, which a dove is said to
have brought from heaven filled with inexhaustible holy oil at the bap-
tism of Clovis. During the Revolution the sacred vessel was shattered,
but a fragment was piously preserved, in which some of the oil was said
still to remain. This was carefully placed in a new Sainte Ampoule, and
nsed at the coronation of Charles X. in 1825.

The possession of the Sainte Ampoule probably led to the choice of
this cathedral as the coronation-place for the Kings of France; and within
its walls the Archbishops of Rheims , as Primates of the kingdom , have
crowned, almost without exception, the successive occupants of the throne
from 1173 downwards. Henri IV, who was crowned at Chartres, Napo-
leon I., who was crowned at Paris, and Louis XVIII., l.ouis Philippe, and
Najioleon III., who were not crowned at all, are the only French mon-
archs who since that date have not been anointed with the miraculous oil.

Tickets (1 fr.) for the a-^cent of the Tcncers may also be obtained in
the 'sacristie des chaises' (see above).

To the S. of the cathedral is the Archiepiscopal Palace (PhC, 4:
apply to the concierge), a large and handsome edifice dating from
the 15-17th centuries. It contains the apartment used by the
kings before their coronation, the hall where the royal banquet was
given, and a fine double chapel of the liUh century. 'Ilie lower chapel

Hotel de Ville. RHETMS. 17. Route. 121

is occupied "by a Musee Lapidaire^ the most interesting olijects in
which are a Roman altar dedicated to four gods, a has-relief of a
workman with an easel, and the white marble ^Cenotaph of Jovl-
nus, prefect of Gaul in the 4th century. This last is hewn from a
single block, 9 ft. long and 6 ft. broad, and is adorned with a
beautiful bas-relief of a lion-hunt.

The short street running to the N. from the E. end of the cath-
edral leads us to the regularly-built Place Royale (PI. C, 3), which
is embellished with a bronze statue of Louis ZF., by Cartellier,
-erected in 1818. The first statue, by Pigalle, was destroyed at the
Revolution, but the original figures of Mild Government and Popular
Happiness still adorn the base. — The broad Rue Royale connects
this square with the Place des Marches^ to the N., No. 9 in which
is the Malson Callou (Roy), with a 15th cent, timber fa^-ade. In
the Rue de Tambour (Nos. 18 and 20), to the right, is the House
of the Musicians, the most interesting of the many quaint old houses
in Rheims (early 14th cent.). It is named from the figures of seated
musicians in five niches on its front. The Maison Couvert, at the
corner of the Rue du Marc (parallel with the Rue dc Tambour) and
the Rue Pluche, has an interesting courtyard and interior.

The Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 3), reached by the Rue Colbert,
is a handsome edifice in the Renaissance style, begun under
Louis XIII. (whose equestrian statue adorns the pediment), but
finished only in the 19th century. Tt is surmounted by a lofty cam-
panile, and contains a Library of 80,000 vols, and 1500 MSS. (open
daily, except Mon., 10-4, on Sun. 12-4), and the public Musees.

Tiie latter (open on Sun. and Tbnrs. 1-4 in winter, 1-5 in summer,
but, accessible on other days also after 10 a.m. , except Mon.) include a
collection of paintings, embracing a few German, Flemish, and Dutch paint-
ings, a large triptych of the school of Rheims (15th cent.), and ."^ome modern
works; a museum illustrating the manufacture of champagne; collections of
faience and china; a Japanese collection; a collection of local caricatures;
a collection of scenery ('toiles peintes') used in mystery plays in the
15th cent.; an anfiqtiarian museum; and an archfeologicai museum. On
the second floor is a large Roman mosaic, discovered at Rheims, 35 ft. long
by 26 ft. broad, representing the sports of the amphitheatre.

If. Morel, No. 3 Rue Sedan, beyond the Hotel de Ville, possesses a valu-
able collection of Roman, Gallo-Koman, Merovingian, and other antiquities.

The chief Roman monument at Rheims is the Porte de Mars
(PI. R, 2), a triple gateway or triumphal arch, at the N.E. end of the
promenades near the station, and reached from the Hotel de Ville
by the Rue de Mars, or the Rue Henri IV. It is referred to the 4th
cent, of our era and still retains some remains of its ornamenta-
tion, including eight fine Corinthian columns, a graceful framework
about an empty niche, four genii, a medallion with a head in high
relief, and two caducei.

The modern church of /Si. Thomas, built in the style of the 14th cent.,
and situated in the suburb of Laon , beyond the railway , contains the
fomb and statue (by Bonnassieux) of Cardinal Gousset. late Archbishop of
Rheims (d. 1866).

The most ancient ecclesiastical building in Rheims is tlie abbey

122 Route 7 7. RHEIMS.

church of *St. Eemi (PI. D, 5, 6), at the extreme S. end of
the town (tramway from the station, comp. the Plan), which, though
freely altered in modern times, 'retains the outlines of a vast and
nohle basilica of the early part of the 11th cent., presenting con-
siderable points of similarity to those of BvLxgundy' ( Fergusson). The
first church on this side was founded in 852, but this was practi-
cally rebuilt in the ll-12th cent., while the portal of the S. transept
is as late as the end of the 15th century. The W. facade is in the
Gothic style of the 12th cent., but both the towers are Romanesque.
The nave also is Romanesque, but the choir is Gothic, and the S.
transept Flamboyant.

The 'Interior produces an effect of great dignity. The aisles are pro-
vided with galleries, that in the N. aisle containing tapestries presented
by Rob. de Lenoncourt, the donor of those in the cathedral (p. 120).
The choir, like the choir of the cathedral, is continued into the nave;
part of it is surrounded by a tasteful marble screen of the time of
Louis XIII. The choir-windows are still filled with magnificent stained glass
of the ll-13th centuries. Off the apse open five chapels, with arcades sup-
ported by graceful columns. Behind the high-altar is the "Tomh of St. Bemi
or Remigius., in the style of the Renaissance, but restored in 1847 for the
third time. It presents the form of a kind of temple in coloured marbles,
with a group in white marble representing the saint baptising Clovis,
surrounded by white marble statues of the Twelve Peers of France (the
Bishops of Rheims, Laon, Langres, Beauvais, Chalons, and Xoyon, the
Dukes of Burgundy, Kormandy, and Aquitaine, and the Counts of Flanders,
Champagne, and Toulouse). — The S. transept contains a Holy Sepulchre
of 1531, and three alto-reliefs of 1610, representing the Baptisms of Christ,
Constantino, and Clovis. — There are also a few pieces of tapestry in the
sacristy, and an enamelled cross of the 13th cent, and 30 Limoges enamels
in the treasury. — The sacristan lives at Rue St. Remi 6.

The Hold Dieu or Hospital, adjoining tl\e church, occupies the
former abbey of St. Remi, the handsome cloisters of which (partly
Romanesque) still remain. The neighbouring <;hurch of St. Maurice
(PI. D, 5) contains groups in memory of two natives of Rheims,
vh. N. Rolland (b. 1642), founder of the Congregation de FEnfaut
Je'sus, and the Abbe de la Salle (b. 1651), founder of the Frorcs
de la Doctrine Chre'tienne.

The visitor to Rheims should visit one of the vast Champagne Cellars,
among the most interesting of which are those of M. Roederer (Route de
Chalons-, PI. E, 6) and Mme. Pommery (apply Rue Vauthier-le-Noir 7,
near the Lyct'e, PI. C, 4). For an account of the process of champagne-
making, see p. 139.

A local line runs from Rheims to (12 M.) Vei'zy (Hot. Dupuis), skirting
the vineyards of the 'Montague de Reims"; and another to (lOV-i M.) Cor-
micy (Croix Blanche), both passing numerous small stations.

From Rheims to Paris, see R. 16; to Laon, p. 98: to Chalons, p. 98: to
Soissons, p. 117; to Metz, R. 19.

18. From Paris to Metz.

a. Vifi, Ch&lons and Frouard.

244 M. R.ULWAV (GarederKst; PLC, 'J4) in 7'/4-12'/i brs. (fares 43 fr.
85, 29 fr. 65, 19 fr. 35 c; less via Verdun, see p. 124).

From Paris to (214 M.) Frouard, see R. 19. The train returns

PONT-A-MOUSSON. IS. Route. 123

in the direction of Paris for about 72 M. — 215 M. Pompey (3094
inhab.), with iron-mines and extensive factories.

A branch-railway runs liencc via (IV4 M.) Cttstines, formerly Conde^ to
(I3V2M.) Nomemj^ a small though ancient town on the Seille.

AVe now enter the beautiful valley of the Moselle^ and after cross-
ing the river continue to follow its left bank almost the whole way
to Metz. A canal also runs along the left bank. — 210 M. Marbache;
222 M. Dieulouard (Hot. du Commerce), commanded by a hill bear-
ing a ruined castle. In this neighbourhood was situated the Roman
town of Scarpona, noted for a defeat of the Allemanni by Jovinus in
366. To the right, in the distance, is the hill of Mousson (see below).

226 M. Pont-^-Mousson {* Hotel de France^ Place Duroc ; Hotel
(le la Poste, Hue Victor-Hugo, near the station), an attractive town
of 12,700 inhab., situated on the Moselle. The triangular Place
Duroc, surrounded with arcades, contains the Hotel de Ville and a
handsome House in the Renaissance style, decorated with sculptures.

In the Rue St. Laurent, leading to the left, near the Hotel de
Ville, is the late-Gothic church of St. Laurent (recently restored),
with a 17th cent, fagade. The vaulting is noteworthy; the stained
glass is modern. In the 2nd chapel on the left is a curious 16th
cent, altar-piece, consisting of scenes from the Passion in carved and
gilded wood, closed by shutters painted on both sides with scenes
from the life of Christ and the Virgin. — A street leads from the
end of the Place Duroc to the old town, crossing the Moselle by a
bridge built in the 16th century. Near the latter, to the left, is tlie
church of St. Martin, dating from the 13-15th cent., with two hand-
some towers. It contains a fine Holy Sepulchre in the right aisle, a
gallery of the 15th cent., now used as the organ-loft, and a painting
of the Baptism of the Queen of Mysore, by Claude Charles (d. 1747)
of Nancy. — Farther to the N. is the church of St. Mary, built in
1705, with an ancient abbey, now converted into a seminary.

On a hill (1010 ft.) to the E. of the town is the little village of Mousson,
with the scanty rains of a Castle. The towei* of the Chapel of the castle
is surmounted by a statue of Joan of Arc, by the Duchesse d'Uzes. Ex-
tensive view to the N.

232 M. Pagny-sur-Moselle (Buffet; Hotel- Cafe de laOare) is the
frontier-station, with the French custom-house. Good wine is pro-
duced on the hills of the left bank. About 1 1/4 M. to the W. S.W. are
the extensive ruins of the Chateau de Preny, built by the dukes of
Lorraine and dismantled in the 17th century. — Railway toLonguyon
via Conflans-Jarny, see p. 126.

235 M. Noveant (Buffet), the German frontier-station, with the
German custom-house. German time is 55 min. in advance of Parisian
time. Corny, connected with Nove'antby a suspension-bridge, was the
German headquarters during the siege of Metz. — 2371/2 M. Ancy-
sur-Moselle. At J ouy-aux- Arches, which lies to the right, and at
(239 M.) Ars-sur-Moselle, with iron-works, are perceived the exten-
sive remains of a Roman *Aqueduct, 60 ft. in height and 1220 yds.

\2i Route 18. STE. TMENEHOULD. From raris

in length, constructed "by Drusus to bring water to Diiwduruw^ the
modern Metz. Gravdotte (omn.; p. 135) lies 4'/2 J^I- to the N.E., in
the valley of the Mance. The train crosses the Moselle. To the right
are the fort of St. Privat and the chateau of Frescati. To the left are
the lines to Verdun and to Thionville, and Mt. St. Quentin; to the
right, the lines to Saarhrijcken and Strasshurcr.
244 M. Metz, see p. 134.

b. Via Chalons and Verdun.

216 M, RAii.wAr in 8V-2-12 hrs. (fares 38 fr. 95, 26 li-. 30, 17 fr, 20 c.).
The trains start from the Onre de 1 Est (PI. C, 24).

From Paris to (IO71/2 M ) CMlons-sur-Marne, see R. 19. The
line to Metz diverges here to the left, and crossing the Marne and the
Phine and Marne Canal, enters the monotonous district of the Haute
Champagne or Champagne Pouilieuse. — 118 M. St. H'daire-av-
Temple is the junction for Rheims (p. 127). — I2IY2 ^1- Cupcrly,
near the large military Camp de Chalons (p. 126).

At La Gheppe., 21/2 M. to the E.. is a large circular entrenchment, known
as AUila's Camp, thony:h really an ancient Roman camp or a Gallic oppi-
dum. The Campi Catalauni, where Attilt was defeated by J^:tius in -i.51 af
the famous b:itHc of Chalons (p. 140), were therefore probably in tliis
neighbourhood.

140 M. Valmy [Hotel near the church), noted for the defeat of
the Allies under the Duke of Brunswick hy the French under J)u-
mouriez and Kellermann in 1792. This was the famous 'Cannonade
of Valmy', 'wherein the French ,'^'ansculottes did not fly like poultry'
(Carlyle). A pyramid on the battlefield, in a grove to the right,
before we reach the station, contains the heart of Kellermann, Due
de Valmy (1747-1820), and his s^tatne was added in 1892. Dumou-
riez, having afterwards deserted to the enemy, is ignored. The train
descends through the fertile valley of the Aisne.

140 M. Ste. Menehould ( Hotel de Metz; Si. Mcolas), on the A/^^/jf,
a town with 5300 inhab. , noted for its pork. Part of the Walls of
the old town are preserved, and also a Church, dating from the 18-
14th century. No. 8 in the Avenue Victor-Uugo is the posting-sta-
tion (now the gendarmerie) where Louis XVL was recognised by
'Old-Dragoon Drouet' on his attempted flight from France in June,
1791 (comp. p. 127), — Railway from Amagne to Revigny and
Rar-le-Duc, see p. 127.

A well-wooded and picturesque district is now traversed, in-
cluding the Forest of Argon7u, well-known from the campaign of
1792. 151 M. Les Islettes has given name to one of the passes of
the Argonne. — 154 M. Clermont- en- Argonne (Pommc-d"Or). a
small town on a hill to the right (branch-line to Bar-le-Duc, see
p. 144; Varennes and Apremont, p. 127). — Several small stations
are passed.

174 M. Verdun. — Hotels. Trois Maurks, Rue de rHOtel-dc-Villo. 7,
IJ., T; . (fe A. 2V'-4V«- ^- ', ^'^'}- 2V2. r)- 3 fr.; Coq-Harot, Pktix-St-Martin.
i;uc du St. Esprit 2 and 3. — Cafes in the I'hice t'te. Croix, Rue dc I'ilutil-

to Metz. VERDUN. 18. Route. 125

ilc-Ville, and Rue St. Paul. — Buffet at the station. — Cabs. Per drive
i-2 pers. 60 c., 3 per.^. 1 fr. 20 c., 4 pers. 1 tV. BO c. ; per In-., IV-', 2, 2V-' IV.;
double fare after midnight.

Verdun, a strongly fortified town with 22,150 iiilia'b., is situated
on the Meuse, which divides at this point into several branches.

Verdun, the Eoman Vevodunum^ holds an important place in early Europ-
ean history, for by the Treaty of Verdun in 843 the possessions of Charle-
magne were divided among his three grandsons, Lothaire, Lewis the Ger-
man, and Charles the Bald (p. xxv), and the French and German members
of the empire were never again united. The town was early the seat of
a bishop, and remained a free imperial town until 1552, when it was ta-
ken by the French, although it was not formally uoiited to France until
the Peace of Westphalia in 1648, by which Austria gave up the three fam-
ous bishoprics of Verdun, Toul , and Met/-. Verdun was bombarded by
the Prussians in 1792, and, having surrendered after a few hours, the in-
habitants accorded an amicable reception to the conquerors , to whoui a
party of young girls made an offering of the bonbons ('dragees') for which
Verdun is noted. The Revolutionists recovered the tuwn after the battle
of Valmy, and sent three of these innocent maidens to the scaffold. The
town was again bombarded by the Germans in 1870, and taken after a gal-
lant resistance of three weeks.

The Avenue de la Gare and its prolongations intersect the whole
town from N. to S. Beyond the Porte St. Paul are the Palais de
Justice, on the right, and the large new College, on the left. The
first street diverging to the left leads to the Porte Chaussee, a gate-
way with two crenelated towers (now a military prison), part of
which dates from the 15th century. Beyond it is a bridge across the
Meuse. — The main street, to which we return, leads to another
bridge across the main channel of the river. On the left bank is
the Place Ste. Croix, embellished in 1855 with a bronze statue, by
Lemaire, of General Chevert (1695-1769 j, a native of the town,
distinguished for his capture and defence of Prague (1741-42). —
The Puhlic Library (open Thurs. & Sun., 2-4), on the Ouai de la
Comc'die, to the left before the bridge, contains 35,000 vols, and
numerous valuable MSS. — In the court of the Hotel de Viile (17th
cent.) are four cannons presented to the town by the French Govern-
ment in memory of its gallant resistance in 1870. The building
contains a small Musee (adm. free on Sun.; on Thurs., 1-4, 1/2 fr.).
The custodian lives at Rue des Hants-Fins 7. The attractive Pro-
menade de la Digue skirts the Meuse.

The Cathedral, in the upper part of the town, dates from the
ll-12th cent., but has been much altered in the 14th and 17th,
especially in the interior. The aisles are now divided from the nave
by semicircular arches. The space beneath the organ in the W. apse
is occupied by a chapel, and there are also lateral chapels, of which
the first to the right has fine windows, designed by Didron, and art-
istic iron railings. The high-altar is placed beneath a gilded canopy,
resting on marble columns. In the S. transept are a relief dating
from 1555 and a marble statue of Notre Dame de Verdun.

The Bishop's Palace and the Grand Seminaire adjoin the cath-
edral. From the ill-kept Promenade de la Poche a good view is

^2Q Route 18. CONFLANS-JARNY. From Paris

obtained, to the W., of the pastoral valley of the Meuse. Visitors are
not admitted to the Citadel^ situated beyond the promenade.

Verdun is also a station on the railway from /Sedan to L&rouviUe (Nancy;
see p. 131). — To Bar-le-Duc, see p. 144.

The railway to Metz crosses the Meuse, ascends an incline
(Cotes de Meuse) on the other bank (view to the right), passes
through a tunnel, ^/^ M. long, and b(
Woevre enters the valley of the Moselle.

1871/2^- Etain {H6t.de laSirene, Rue du Pont8}, a picturesque
town on the Orne, with 2800 inhab., has an interesting church of
the loth and 16th cent. , in which is a Madonna attributed to
Ligier Richier (pp. 131, 144).

199 M. Conflans-Jarny {Buffet; Hotel opposite), near the con-
fluence of the Orne and Yron.

Conflans-Jarny is the junction of the railway from Longuyon to Pagny-
sur-Moselle (see p. 123). The lirst station to the S, is (5V2 31.) Mars-la-Tour
(see p. 133). — Branch-railways also run from Conflans-Jarny to (8 M.)
Briey (Croix Blanche), an industrial town with 2000 inhab., and to(7V-'M.)
IJomicourl-Joeuf^ both following the same rails as far as (41/2 M.) Vallevoy.

204 M. BatUiy, with the French custom-house. The train then
crosses the battlefield of Gravelotte (p. 135).

208 M. Amanvillers (Buffet), the first German station, with the
German custoin-house. German time is 55 min. in advance of
Parisian time. Gravelotte lies 4V2 M. to the S., St. Privat (omni-
bus) I1/4M. to the N., and Ste.Marie-aux-Chenes 21/2 M. to the N.E.

We change carriages at Amanvillers, and descend the volley of
Monvaux. On the left are the forts of Plappeville and St.Quentin. —
213 M. Moulins-les-Metz. The line to Thionville (p. 133) is seen to
tlieleft. The train crosses the Mose^/e, andjoins the railway from Frou-
ard (R. 16 a), and then the line from Saarbriicken and Strassburg.

217 M. Metz, see p. 134.

c. Vifi. Rheims and Verdun.

(Rheims- Chalons.)

220 M. in 91/4-113/4 hrs. , 222V-.' M. in 9V4-12y2 hrs. , or 230 M. in lO'/a-
121/2 hrs. , according as Rheims is reached via La Ferte-Milou (Ligne de
TEst), via Soissons (Ligne du Nord), or via Epemay (Ligne de TEst). Fares
about 42 fr. , 28 fr.. 50, 18 fr. 50 c.

From Paris to (97-107 M.) Rheims, see R. 16. — This line di-
verges to the right from that to Laon and Me'zieres-Charleville, and
making a wide detour round the town , enters the valley of the
Vesle, which it ascends to St. Ililaire. The monotonous plains of La
Haute Champagne are traversed, 105'/2M. (from Paris via La Ferte-
Milon; 21/2 01" lOM. longer by the other xontes) Sillery, which gives
its name to a well-known brand of champagne; 110 M. Thuisy;
II2V2 M. Sept-Saulx. To the left of (11572 M.) the station of
Mourmelon stretches the immense Camp de Chalons (29,650 acres),
established in 1857 by Napoleon III., and before 1870 a very im-
portant military centre. Since the war it has been used only for

to Metz. RETHEL. 18. Route. 12 7

mantcuvres and temporary purposes. — At (122 M.) St. Hilaire-au-
Temple we join the railway to Metz via Chalons and Verdun (p. 1241.

d. ViS, Rheims and Mezieres-Charleville.

(Givet^ Namur, Luxembourg.)

258 M. in 9V4-143/4 brs. , 26OV2 M. in 93/4-15V'2 hvs. , or 268 M. In lO'/i-
I5V2 lirs., according as Rheims is reached via La Ferte-Milon, viu Soissons,
or via Epernay. Comp. 11. 16. Fares 45 fr. 70, 30 fr. 85, 20 fr. 15 c,

From Paris to (^97-107 M.) Rheims^ see R. 16. At Rheims we
leave the line to Laon on the left and that to Verdun and Metz on
the right, and traverse the monotonous plains of Haute Champagne.

— 102 M. (from Paris via La Ferte'-Milon, 21/2 ^md 10 M. more by
the other routes) Witry-les- Reims. — 1071/2 M. Bazancourt.

Feom Bazancoui!t to Challekange (see l)el()\v), 33 M., railway through
the valley of the tSuippe^ with its active woollen industry.

P>eyond(11572M.) Taynon the train passes through a tunnel and
enters the basin of the yl^■sne, where the scenery becomes more varied.

123 M. Bethel (Hot. de France; de l^ Europe; du Commerce), an
industrial town with 6742 inhab., is partly situated on a hill to the
right of the Aisne and of the Canal des Ardennes, which connects
the Aisne and the Meuse and is crossed by the railway. The church
of St. Nicholas is in reality formed of two churches, different both
in size and style, and placed end to end. The oldest part, dating
from the 13th cent., belonged originally to a priory. The Hotel Dieu
and several other edilices in the town date from the 17th century.

I261/2 M. Amagne-Lucquy (Buffet-Hotel), with a large sugar
factory, is the junction for a line to Hirson (see p. 100).

From Amagne-Lucqut to Revigny (Bar-le-Duc), 67V2 M., railway in
31/2-51/2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 30, 8 fr. 25, 5 fr. 35 c). — 6 M. Attigny (Hot. de la
Gave; Cheval Blanc)., an ancient and celebrated little town on the Aisne and
the Canal des Ardennes. Wittikind, the duke of the heathen Saxons, was
baptised here in 786; and here in 822 Lewis the Debonair performed his
public penitence at the instigation of his prelates. The town was frequently
the scene of public assemblies and state-councils -., and the Merovingian and
('arolingian kings bad a large and splendid palace here, built about the
middle of the 12th cent., of which the Dome, a sort of portico near the
Hotel de Ville, is the only relic. The Church of Attigny dates from the
13th century. — We now ascend the valley of the Aisne. 18 M. Vouziers
(Lion d'Or)., a town with 3670 inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank
of the Aisne, has a church of the 15-16th cent., with a remarkable portal.

— 251/2 M. Challerange. Branch-line to Bazancourt, see above.

[A branch - railway also runs from Challerange to (15 M.) Apremont,
following the attractive valley of the .4«'e, and passing (6 M.) Grandpr6,vi}i\ch.
has given its name to a defile in the forest of Argonne, through which
the line passes. Apremont is an iron-working village. About 41/2 M. to
the S.W. is the little town of Varennes-en-Argonne, where Louis XVI. was
arrested in 1791 on his attempted flight from France; and 7 M. farther on
is Clermont-en-Argonne (p. 124).]

371/2 M. Vienne-la-Ville, which, appears as A.Tuenna in the Itinerary of
Antoninus, is on the road from Rheims to Metz via Verdun. — 40 M.
Laneuville-au-Pont has a modern pilgrimage-chapel, picturesquely situated
on a hill 3/4 M. to the S. of the railway. The village-church, to the left,
was built partly in the 14th, partly in the 16th century. — 451/2 M. Ste.
Menehould (see p. 124). The train then continues to ascend the valley of

\2S Route 18. MEZIERES-CHARLEVILLE. From Paris

tlie Aisne, but finally diverges into that of its tributary, tlie Ante, and readies
(671/2 M.) Revigny (see p. 143).

Eeyond (131 1/2 M.)xSauZces-i)'foncim the railway enters the wooded
and mountainous district of the Ardennes^ and the scenery increases
in heauty. Several small stations are passed. To the left of the
line, a little beyond (145 M.) Boulzicourt, rises the large powder
factory of St. Ponce. At (149 M.) Mohon are situated the workshops
of the railway. We cross the Meuse twice, the river making a wide
bend here to the left.

I5IV2 M. Mezieres-Charleville (Buffet-Hotel). The station,
which is at Charleville is common to the two towns of Me'zir^-es
and Charleville. Mezieres lies about 3/^ M. to the left.

Charleville (*Lion (V Argent^ Kue Thiers 20, not far from the
station; Grand Hotel; du Commerce; de l" Europe; *du Nord, near
the station), with 17,800 inhab., forms as it were the commercial
and industrial portion of Me'ziores, the peninsular situation of
which has effectually prevented its expansion. The chief in-
dustries are nail-making, type-founding, and the manufacture of
other small hardware goods. The town derives its name from
Charles of Gonzaga, Duke of Nevers and Mantua, and Governor of
Cliampagne, who fouTided it in 1606. The road leading from the
station is met at the bridge connecting the two towns by a fine boule-
vani, which extends to the Place Ducale, in the centre of Charle-
ville, a square bordered by arcades like the Place des Vosges at
Paris. The rest of the town is uninteresting. On the N. side of the
town the Meuse forms another small peninsula, occupied by Mount
Olympus, a height at one time fortified, but now private property.

Mezieres (Hotel du Palais-Royal), the cliief town of the depart-
ment of the Ardtnnes, with 7450 inhab., is situated on a peninsula
forjned by the Meuse, and until recently was strongly fortified.

Me'zieres has undergone several memorable sieges. In 1521 the Chevalier
Bayard, with a garrison of 2000 ineu, successfully defended the town for
28 days against an Imperial army of 35,000. In 1815, after a siege of six
weeks, the town was compelled to capitulate to the Germans, though not
before the general pacification. In 18T0 Me/.ieres was invested three times,
and surrendered on Jan. 2nd, 1871, after a bombardment of three days.

To the right, near the bridge which connects the two towns, is a
War Monument, commemorating the inhabitants of the Ardennes
who fell in 1870-71. The only noteworthy building in Me'zieres is the
Parish Church, a handsome Gothic edifice of the 15-16th cent., with
a conspicuous Renaissance tower. It has been restored since the
bombardment of 1870. The portal on the S. side is very richly orna-
mented. Within this church Charles IX. was married to Elizabeth
of Austria in 1570. In the newer part of the toAvn is a Statue of
Bayard (sec above), by Croisy (189B).

Hallways to Hirson, Aidnoye, Valencietmes, Lille, and Calais, see pp. 100,
91); to Oivet and Narmtr, see p. HI.

Trains for Sedan, Thionville, andMetz, on leaving Me'ziores-
Cliarleville, return in the direction of Rheims as far as beyond the

to Metz, SEDAN. 18. Route, 129

station of Molion (p. 128). Here they diverge to the left into the
valley of the Meuse, which is crossed at (1541/2 M.) Lvmes. From
(I56Y2 M.) Vrigne-Meuse a tramway runs to (3 M.) Vrigne-aux-
Bois, where large quantities of hardware are produced. — 161 y2 M.
Donchery is the point where the German forces crossed the Meuse,
at the battle of Sedan, in order to cut off the retreat of the French
army to Mezieres. The railway crosses the river, and immediately
to the right is seen the Chateau de Bellevue, where Napoleon III.
surrendered his sword, and where the capitulation of Sedan was
signed on Sept. 2nd, 1870. The captured army were detained as
prisoners for three days on the Peninsula of Iges, formed here by
the Meuse. The bombardment of Sedan was begun by a battery
posted on the heights of Frenois^ to the right. The German army
took up its position in that direction and still farther to the E., while
the French posted themselves on the heights immediately surround-
ing Sedan. By the end of the day the French position had been
turned by the Germans, who had made themselves masters of the
hills commanding it on the N.

1641/2 M' Sedan. —Hotels. HoT.DEL'EuKorK, Rue Gambetta27, R.,
L., & A. 21/2-6, B. 11/4, de'j. 3V2, D. 4 fr. •, Ckoix d'Ok, Place Turenne, doj.
3 fr. ; Lion d'Ob, Place d'Alsace-Lorrainc. — Buffet at the station.

Sedan, a town with 20,163 inhab., formerly strongly forti-
fied, is famous for the battle and capitulation of Sept. 1st and
2nd, 1870 (see p. 130). Of no great antiquity, the town at one
time belongedjo the Dukes of Bouillon f p. 131), and the revolt of one
of these noblemen in 1591 led to the siege and capture of Sedan by
Henri IV. Sedan is well and regularly built, and carries on a pros-
perous manufacture of fine cloth; but it is uninteresting to the
stranger. Within recent years the appearance of the town has under-
gone a remarkable change. The fortifications have been removed,
and their place is largely taken by handsome houses.

From the station, which has been brought farther to the S.E.,
near the Meuse, the Avenue Philoppoteaux, crossing the river and
traversing the new suburb, leads to the Place d' Alsace-Lorraine,
at the S. extremity of the town, in which are situated the War
Monument for 1870, the College, and the Etablissement Crussy,
embracing an asylum and a small Musee (adm. on application).
Thence the Avenue du College leads to the Place d'Armes , in
which rises the Parish Church. Beyond the church is the Donjon,
of the 15th cent., the only relic of the ancient Castle. The Avenue du
College is continued by the Rue Gambetta or Grande Rue, which ends
at the Place Turenne, embellished with a bronze statue, by Goix, of
Marshal Turenne, erected in 1823. The marshal (1611-75), born
at Sedan, was the son of Henri de la Tour-d'Auvergne, Viscount of
Sedan and Duke of Bouillon, an ambitious noble who took part in
many plots against Cardinal Richelieu, and was finally forced to
purchase his life by yielding up to Louis XIII. the barony of Sedan.

Baedekee's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 9

130 Route 18. SEDAN. From Paris

— Crossing the Meuse, we again enter a new quarter, beyond which
are fields traversed hy the Viaduc de Torcy. The suburh of Torcy,
beyond the canal, has a modern Gothic Church and Convent. The
Rue Wadelincourt, which passes in front of the former, leads back to
the station.

The best point from which to visit the battlefield of Sedan is the
village o{ BazeUles, about 3 M. to the S.E. (cab, 21/2-3 fr. ; station,
see p. 132). The road leads to the S. from the Place Nassau, at the
end of the Avenue Philippoteaux.

The Battle of Sedan, fought Sept. 1st, 1870, raged most fiercely in the
neighbourhood of Bazeilles. Marshal MacMahon, acting under orders from
Paris dictated bj" political rather than military considerations, and endeav-
ouring to march from the camp at ('h;llons (p. 126) to the relief of Ba-
zaine in Metz via Montnae'dy (p. 132), had l)een forced back upon Sedan
by the victorious armies of the Crown Prince of Prussia and the Crown
Prince of Saxony. The French crossed the Meuse at Mouzon (p. 131) and
took up a position on the heights of La Moncelle., Daigny^ and Givonrte
(p. 131), on the right bank of the Givonne, a small tributary of the Meuse,
flowing to the E. of Bazeilles, while their line was continued to
the W., via Illi/ and Floing^ until it rested upon the Meuse near the
peninsula of Iges (p. 129). The battle began at daybreak, and from 4.30
to 10 a.m. Bazeilles and La Moncelle were the chief points of attack.
Step by step the fighting was forced farther to the N., to Daigny and Gi-
vonne, until finally, about 2 p.m., the right wing of the Saxons, who
attacked from the E., and the left wing of the Prussians, who attacked
from theW., effected a junction at Illy, and the ring of steel was closed
round the French. Early in the afternoon some of the French troops
began to retire in disorder upon the town, and not all the brilliant gal-
lantry of the cavalry, who dashed themselves against the solid German
lines in one desperate charge after another, could turn the tide of battle.
When a German battery opened fire upon the town from the heights of
Frenois (p. 129), there was nothing for it but surrender. Napoleon 111.,
who was at Sedan, though not in command, delivered his sword to the
King of Prussia; and 8S,000 men (including 1 marshal, 89 generals, and
3230 other officers), with 10,000 horses, 4000 cannons, 70 mitrailleuses, and
an enormous quantity of stores fell into the hands of the victors. The Ger-
mans are said to have lost 10,000 men and the French 11,000. The victory
was mainly due to the superior strategy of (he German commanders. The
French were completely out-manu'uvred by the Germans, who had
managed to concentrate at Sedan a tried force of 240,000 men, and to coop
up there the French army of 130,000 men, who had no time to recover
from the disorganization of their previous retreat. The German attack
was aided by the double change of command in the French camp. Mac-
Mahon was wounded early in the day, and was succeeded by Ducrot,
who was in turn replaced by De Wimpffen.

Near the beginning of the village of Bazeilles, to the left of the
road, is the small tavern A laDerniere Cartouche. The name recalls
the fact that this was the last French position in the village,
desperately defended by the marines under Martin des Paillores
against Von der Tann's Bavarians. The inn, which was the only
house in the whole village not burned down, now contains a small
Museum of relics of the battle (fee), and one of the rooms oti the
first floor is still preserved in the same state as is depicted in A.
de Neuville's painting of 'The Last Cartridge', the scene of which
is laid in the house which has borrowed its name.

The street to the right of the road leads into the village, passing

to Metz. ST. MIHIEL. 18. Route. 131

near the cemetery, rendered conspicuous "by its Ossuaire, containing
the bones of 2035 French and German soldiers removed from their
temporary graves on the hattlefleld. Visitors obtain admission on
applying at the nearest tavern, the keeper of which is the sexton.
The small monument in front of the Ossuaire commemorates 500
Bavarians who fell in the battle; the other large monument in
the cemetery does not refer to the events of 1870. — The French
soldiers and villagers who were killed in the defence of the place are
commemorated by a truncated Pyramid in the village. — Farther
down, near the Meuse, is the railway-station of Bazeilles (p. 130).
From Sedan to Bouillon, 12 M., diligence (2 fr.) thrice daily. The
road ascends to the N.E. by the Fond de Givonne, and crosses part of the
battlefield of 1870 (p. 130). 3 M. Givorine, on the streamlet of the same
name, was the centre of the French position. At (5 M.) La Chapelle is the
French custom-house; and beyond it we enter the Forest of Avdennes. After
8 M. more we enter Belgium. — 12 M. Bouillon (Hdtel de la J*oste; de France;
des Ardennes)., with about 2600 inhab., was formerly the capital of an inde-
pendent duchy. From 1795 till 1815 it belonged to France, afterwards it pass-
ed to Luxembourg, but since 1839 it has been united with Belgium. The
town is prettily situated on a peninsula formed by the Semoy., an affluent of
the Meuse, and is commanded by a Castle on an isolated rock. The valley
as far as (28-30 M.) Montherme may be explored on foot in one day. Road
from Menthermc to the most attractive parts of the valley, see p. 112.

Fkom Sedan to LfeKouviLLE , 91 M. (to Nancv, 127 M.), railwav in
43/4-71/4 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 15, 13 fr. 65, 9 fr. 95 c). — At (21/2 M.) Pont-
Maugis the line diverges to the left from that to Met/, and begins to
ascend the attractive valley of the Meuse. 31/2 M. nemilli/. Branch-line to
Rattcouri., see p. 132. — 9 M. Mouzon., a little old town which enjoyed a
certain amount of importance down to the middle of the 17th cent., contains
a church of the 13-15thcent. and the remains of an abbey founded in the 10th
century. — 15V'2 M. Litanue-Beaumont is the station for the little town of
Beaumont., i^/i M. to the S.W., where 3000 men under General de Failly,
posted to guard the passage of the Meuse, were defeated and captured by
the Saxon troops on Aug. 30th, 1870. — 24 M. Stenay, a small town in the
Pays Messin in Lorraine, was at one time strongly fortified. At (32 M.)
Dun-Doulcon the valley expands.

57 M. Verdun, see p. 124. Our line leaves the railway to Metz on the
left and that to Chalons and Rheims on the right, and skirts the town of
Verdun on the S.W. The valley again contracts and forms picturesque
defiles, most of which are fortilied.

80 M. St. Mihiel (Hdtel du Cygne), with 9260 inhab., situated on the
right bank of the Meuse, grew up round an ancient Abbey of Si. Michael.,
now occupied by the municipal offices. Both the abbey and the Church of
St. Michael date in part from the 17th century. The church contains a fine
statue of the Madonna, by Ligier Richier (p. 144; in the choir); a child
surrounded with skulls, perhaps by Jean Richier (in the 1st chapel on
the right); and good choir-stalls, organ-case, and modern stained glass.
The Church of St. Stephen., in the old town, contains a group of life-sized
statues representing the '^Entombment., considered the masterpiece of Ligier
Richier. Among the various quaint old houses in this part of the town
is one formerly occupied by Ligier Richier, who has embellished it with
an elaborate ceiling. Above the town rise the Falaises de St. Mihiel., a
group of pointed limestone rocks, 60-70 ft. high.

91 M. Lirouville., on the line from Paris to Nancy, is 8V2 M. from
Commercy (p. 144).

Beyond Sedan the railway continues to skirt the Meuse for some
distance. 174 M. Pont-Maugis is the junction for Verdun and Lerou-

9*

1 32 Route 18. MONTMEDY. From Paris

ville (p. 131) and for (6 M.) Raucourt, a town with manufactures
of 'buckles. Crossing the Meuse, the line now ascends the valley of
the Chiers. 1751/2 M. Bazeilles (p. 130). — 185 M. Carignan, a town
with 2224 inhab., was at one time fortified. Formerly named Yvois,
it changed its name when Louis XIV. made it a duchy in favour of
Eugf'ne Maurice of Soissons , son of the prince of Carignan. A
hranch-line runs hence to (4V2 M.) Messempre, with metal-works.

— 197 M. Chauvency. In the distance, to the right, is the citadel of
Montme'dy, beneath which the train passes by means of a tunnel,
72 M. long.

202 M. Montmedy (Hot. de la Gave; Croix d'Or), a fortress of
the second class, with 2733 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the
Chiers. The rocky and isolated hill (Mons Medius) from which the
name is derived is occupied by the citadel. Montme'dy was taken by
Louis XIV. from tlie Spaniards in 1657. It was bombarded by the
(iermans in Sept., 1870, after Sedan; and returning in December,
they forced it to capitulate by reducing it to a heap of ruins. — The
church of Aviotli, 4'/2 M. to the N., is a fine Gothic edifice of tlie
13-14th centuries.

A branch-railway runs from Montmedy, via Velosnes-Torgni/ (see below),
i'coM»j>2 (frontier-station, with the custom-house), and ia/ziorrm;/ (with the
Belgian custom-house), to (I2V2 M.) the little Belgian town of Virion. Virtcii
has railway-connection with the lines from Longuyon to Arlon (see below),
from Namur to Luxembourg (via Arlon), etc.

206 M. Velosnes-Toryny (see above). Several bridges and two
tunnels. — 214 M. Longuyon (Buffet- Hotel; Hotel-Cafe de Lor-
raine)^ with 3247 inhab., pleasantly situated at the confluence of
the Chiers and the Crusne, is the centre of the hardware trade in
N.E. France.

FiiOM Longuyon to Luxkmboukg, 39VjM., railway in 374-474 hrs. [Tliis
line is 10' /2 M. shorter than that by Thionville. From Paris to Luxembourg
l.y this route, 257 M., in IO-I2V2 hrs. (fares 43 fr. 75, 29 fr. C5, 19 fr. 40 c.).!

— We leave the line to Thionville and Bletz on the right, and ascend the
upper valley of the Chiers, traversing a picturesque region, studded with
iron mines and foundries. 5'/^ M. Cons-la-Granville , with a handsome
Renaissance chateau (right); 8 M. Uehoii.

9M. Longwy (Ihiffet-Hdtel; de la Crotx d^Or et d'Evrope), a town with
7788 inhab., and a fortress of the second class, has belonged to France since
1678. It was the first strong border-fortress taken by the Prussians in 1792,
and its weak defence excited great indignation among the Revolutionaries at
Paris. In 1815 it was again taken by the Prussians, this time after a siege
of three months. In February, 18(1, it surrendered to the Germans after
a destructive bombardment of eight days. In the lower town (Longtcii-
Bas) are several important factories and p' rcelain-works. The picturesque
and fortilied upper town ( Long wii - Haul) lies nearly I1/4 M. from the
station by the road (omnibus, 40 c), though there are short-cuts for pedest-
rians. It occupies a height rising from the Chiers, and commands a line
view. — The branch-line from Longwy to (11 M.) Villervpi-Miclieville is
chiefly of industrial importance.

11 M. Mont-St- Martin (hotel), the last French station (but custom-house
at Longwy), has a handsome Romanesiiue church and some steel-works.
Branch-line via (3Vi' M.) Athu:^ (riontier-station) to (13 M.) Avion, see Bae-
deker's Belgium <(• Holland. — The Luxembourg custom-house is at (U'/sM.)
Kodaiie (BufTet). Luxemboug railway-time is 55 miu. in advance of French

to Metz. LUXEMBOURG. 18. Route. 133

railway-time. — 18 M. Pitange; branch-line to Ettelbrilck ami (35V2 M.) Die-
kirch (see Baedeker''s Belgium & Holland). 32 M. Bettembourg is the junc-
tion for Metz and Thionvillo.

34V2M. Luxembourg ("Hdtel Brasseur; de PEurope; de Cologne), a town
with 19,900 inhab., at one time a fortress of the German Confederation, is
the capital of the grand-duchy of Luxembourg. The situation of the town is
peculiar and picturesque. The upper part is perched upon a rocky table-
land, which is bounded! on three sides by abrupt precipices, 200 ft. in
height. At the foot of these (low the Pdtrusse and the Ahette, which are
bounded by equally precipitous rocks on the opposite baiik. In this
narrow ravine lie the busy lower portions of the town. Apart from its
curious situation and pretty environs, Luxembourg oflers little to detain
the traveller. The station is connected with the town by means of a huge
viaduct. The Hotel de Ville and the Athc'nee contain small Musdes; and
the Place Guillaume, near the centre of the town, is embellished with a
Statue of King William III. of Holland, by Mercie. To the W. of the town
lies a public Park. For further details and for the railways from Luxem-
bourg to Spa, to Treves, and to Thionville, see Baedeker's Belgium and
Holland and Baedeker's Rhine.

FiioM LoNGuyoN TO N.ANCV (and Metz, via Conflans - Jarny or Pagny-
sur-Moselle) , 791/2 M. , railway in 33/4-41/4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 85, 11 fr. 90,
8 fr. 75 c). This line forms part of the route traversed by the through
trains from Calais to Nancy, Strassburg, etc. (I!. 14). It diverges to the right
from the line to Thionvillo and runs to the S. J-, through a monotonous
district. — 26 M. Conflans-Jarni/ (P.uOet) is also a station on the line from
Verdun to Metz (p. 126). — At (Bli/j M.) Mars-la-Tour (Ilut. du Commerce)
several sanguinary cavalry-engagements took place during the battle of
Rezonville, on Aug. 16th, 1870. A large Monument, passed before we reach
the station, commemorates the French who fell, and is surrounded with
vaults containing the bones of 10,000 soldiers. — From (4 M.) Oniille a
branch-line runs to (61/2 M.J Thiaucourt, situated to the S.W. in the pretty
valley of the Rupt de ifad, which the main line also traverses towards the
E. — At (46 M.) Pag nij-sur- Moselle (p. 123j our line unites with that from
Bletz to Frouard (p. 146).

Beyond Longuyon the line to Thionville and Metz threads a
tunnel and enters the valley of the Crusne, which it continues to
ascend, crossing the stream several times. Beyond (220 M.) Pierre-
pant, picturesquely situated, a tunnel (Y2 M.) is traversed. — We
quit the valley hy a tunnel.

230 M. Audun-le-Roman is the frontier-station, with the French
custom-house. The German custom-house is at (235 M.) Fentsch
(Fr. Fontoy), where the time is 55 min. in advance of French rail-
way-time. Beyond another tunnel we begin to descend the valley
of the Fentsch. 240 M. Hayingen (Fr. Hayange)^ with important
iron-works.

2441/2 M. Thionville, or Diedenhofen (Hotel du Commerce; St.
Hubert), a small fortified town on the Moselle, with 7000 inhah.,
was captured in 1643 by the Prince of Conde', and on Nov. 24th,
1870, by the Germans, after a bombardment of two days.

From Thionville to Luxembourg (see above), see Baedeker s Belgium and
Holland or Baedeker's Rhine; to Treves (43i/i M.), Saarhriicken, Saargemiind,
etc., see Baedeker's Rhine or Baedeker's Northern Germany.

The Metz line now ascends the valley of the Moselle. 245 M.
Ueckingen (Fr. Vckange); 250 M. Reichersberg (Fr. Richemont);
251 M. Hagendingen (Fr. Hagondange) , the centre of the iron-
founding carried on in the valley of the Orne^ which is traversed by

134 Route 18. METZ.

a short goods-line (see p. 126); 253 M. Maizitres; 261 M. Devant-
les-Ponts, near Fort Moselle. The line describes a curve to the W.
and crosses the Moselle. To the right diverges the line to Verdun
and Paris, then the lines to Frouard and Paris and to Saarbriicken
and Strassburg. — 263 M. Metz.

Metz (for details, see Baedeker''s Rhine). — Hotels. *Grand Hotel,
*Gkand Hotel de Metz, Rue des Clercs 4 and 3, both, of the first class;
d'Angletekee, Rue au Blc, near the cathedral and expensive; de Fkanck,
DE Paeis, near the Place de Chamhre, etc. — Cafes on the Esplanade,

Cabs. To the station, 1 person 1 Ji ; drive in the tov/n 60 pf., each
addit. pers. 20 pf. ; per 1/2 hr., 1 pers. 1 Ji, 2 pers. 1 Ji 20 pf., etc. — Tram-
way from the station to the suburb on the left bank, passing near the
cathedral.

ikfciz, the capital of German Lorraine, with 60,200 inhab. and a
garrison of 20,000 men, lies in a wide basin on the Moselle., which
flows in several arms through the town, at the lower end of which it
is joined on the right by the Seille.

Bletz was the Bivodunim of the Romans, the chief town of the Gallic
tribes of the Mediomatici ., and in the 5th cent, began to be known aa
Metlis. In 406 it was plundered by the Vandals , and in 451 it suffered
the same fate from the Huns. It afterwards passed into the possession
of the Franks, and in 512 became the capital of the kingdom ofAustrasia.
Subsequently Metz was a free city of the German Empire, until it was
taken by the French in 155'2, and successfully maintained by them against
an army which besieged it under Charles V. By the Peace of Westphalia
in 1648 it was ceded to the French together with Toul and Verdun, and
in 1871 it was again incorporated with the German Empire.

Metz has always been strongly fortified (at one time by Yauban^,
and under the later French regime was rendered one of the greatest
fortresses in Europe by the construction efforts on the neighbouring
heights. Until its surrender to the Germans on 27th Oct., 1870, the
fortress had never succumbed to an enemy. The fortifications have
been much extended since 1871 ; and the outworks now form a
girdle round the town of about 15 M. in circumference.

Behind the Place Royale, reached from the station, is the Espla-
nade, laid out in pleasant walks and embellished with a bronze sta-
tue, by Pctre, of Marshal Netj (1769-1815) and a bronze equestrian
statue of Emperor William i., by F. von Miller. The W. side of the
Esplanade affords a beautiful view of the valley of the Moselle, with
the Mont St. Quentin rising on the left.

The *Cathedral, in the centre of the town, is a magnilicent
Gothic structure of the 13-16th centuries. The unsightly principal
portal was added in the 18th century. The whole was thoroughly
restored in 1830-35. The choir contains fine stained-glass windows,
the oldest, of the 13th cent., on the S. side. The tower, 387 ft. high,
commands a fine view of the town and the fertile ^Pays Messin .

Visitors are forbidden to walk about the cathedral during the services,
viz. 8-12.30 and 1.30-5 on Sun. & holiday?, and 2-3 on other days.

The Place d'Armes, adjoining the cathedral, is adorned with a
Statue of Marshal Fahert (1599-1662) , a native of Metz , who dis-
tinguished himself in the campaigns of Louis XIV.

1

METZ. 18. Route. 135

The Library and the Museum, containing collections of Roman
antiquities, natural history, and paintings, occupy the same build-
ing in the Rue Chevremont, which leads from the Place d'Armes.
— A little farther on we reach a branch of the Moselle, above the
island on which are the former Prefecture., the Theatre, etc. Near the
opposite bank, farther down, is the Porte Chambiere or Schlacht-
haus-Thor, to the N. of which is the cemetery, with a monument to
French soldiers who fell here in 1870. The quarter on the lie Cham-
biere has a handsome new Protestant Church in the Gothic style. The
farther side of the island is washed by the main arm of the Moselle,
beyond which rises a fort, near Devant-les-Pont's (p. 134).

The Rue Fournirue leads in the other direction from the Place
d'Armes to the older quarters, with their picturesque Tanneries.
Farther on, on the banks of tlie Seille, is the Porte des AUemands
(1445-48), a quaint old town-gate, restored in 1892.

The Battle Fields of IBtli and IStli August, 1S70, lie to tlie W. of
Metz, on the road to Verdun. A visit to them occupies a whole day
(9-10 hrs.), and may he most conveniently accomplished either entirely hy
carriage (two-horse carriage 30-35 fr., the hest at the principal hotels), or
by taking the train to Ai^s (p. 123) or to Amamillers (p. 126), and proceed-
ing thence by omnibus. The Battle of Eezonville, fought on the IGth Aug.,
was one of the bloodiest of the whole war. In the course of the day no
fewer than 13S,000 French troops and 476 guns were engaged at intervals,
while the German forces amounted to 67,{XX) men with 2'i2 guns. The
French loss was estimated at S79 oflicers and 16,128 men, and the German
loss at 711 officers and 15,069 rank and tile. — The eight German Corps
d'Armee engaged in the Battle of Gravelotte, fought on the 18th Aug., num-
bered about 230,000 men, opposed to whom were 1^0,000 French. The Germans
lost 899 oflicers and 19,260 men, the French 609 officers and 11,705 men.

To the E. of Metz lie the Battle Fields of 14th Aug. and of 31st Aug.
and 1st Sept., 1870. The former battle is known to the French as the i)attle
of Bortip, while the Germans have named it the battle of Colomley- Nouilly ,
as the ground between these villages was the principal object of attack
(see Map). Its result was to cause a fatal delay in the intended march of
the French to Verdun. — The battle of 31st Aug. and 1st Sept. was fought
on the occasion ot the first and most determined attempt of Marshal Ba-
zaine to break through the German army which had surrounded Metz since
19th August. The chief object of dispute was the small village of Noisse-
ville, 5 M. from Metz, on the road to Saarlouis.

To the N. of Metz, not far from the road to Thionville, lies Woippy,
where Bazaine's last sortie., on 7th Oct., terminated in the retreat of the
French after a battle of nine hours' duration. — At the chateau of Fres'
cati., 23/4 M. to the S. of Metz, on 27th Oct., was signed the capitulation
of Metz , w hereby the fortress, with 3 marshals, 50 generals, 6000 other
officers, 173,000 men (including 20,000 sick and wounded), 53 eagles, 66
mitrailleuses, 541 field-pieces, and 800 fortress-guns, together with a vast
quantity of other munitions of war, was surrendered to the Germans.

Fkoji Metz to Strassbukg via Saarburg, 93 M., railway in 2^/4-43/4 hrs.
(express-fares U Jl 60, 19 Ji 30, IJl 30 pf. , ordinary i2 Jt 80, 8 J^ 50,
b Jl 50 pf.). — 131/2 M. Remilly is the junction for the line from Metz to
Saarbriicken. 39 M. Bensdorf or Binestroff is also a station on the Nancy
and Saargemxind line (p. 152). At (47 M.) Berthelmingen we join the line
from Saarbriicken. From (54V-2 M.) Saarburg (Fr. Sarrehourg) our route
coincides with that from Paris and Nancy to Strassburg (see p. 325).

From Metz to Strassburg, via Frouard and Nancy, 127 M. (no through
trains), comp. RC. l^a and 44. — To Nancy, 36 M. in 2 hrs. (fares 5 Jl 10,
(3 J4 45, 2 Jl 20 pf.).

136

19. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg).

219 M. Railway (Gare de I'Est; PL C, 24) in 51/2-91/2 hrs. (fares 30 fr. 65,
26 fr. 80, 17 fr. 30c.). — From Paris to Strassburg, 312 M., Chemin de
Fer d' Alsace-Lorraine beyond Avricourt (p. 325), in ca. 8-13 Lrs. Express
fares 1st class , 56 fr. 80, 2nd cl. 38 fr. 70 c. ; ordinary 55 fr. 40, 37 fr. 30,
24 fr. 35 c; mixed tickets (1st cl. to the frontier, thence 2nd cl.) 53 fr. 70 c.
The German second-class carriages are as good as the French first-class
carriages.

Besides the ordinary express-trains an Oriental Express leaves Paris
pvery evening about 6.50, reaching Nancy in 51/2 hrs. and Strassbvirg in9V2hrs.
This train, which is made up of a limited number of sleeping-carriages,
saloons, and dining-carriages, takes passengers for all intermediate stop-
ping-places, if there is room. Fares to Chalons-sur-Marne 5 fr. 35 c., to
Nancy 11 fr., to Avricourt 12 fr. 80 c, and to Strassburg 15 fr. 10 c, in
addition to the ordinary express-fares. Places may be booked in advance
at the office of the Compagnie des Wagons-lits, Place de TOpera 3, in
Paris, and at 122 Pall Mall, London. — Dinner 6 fr., wine extra. —
Passports necessary in crossing the frontier.

Another line has been opened to Viiry-le-FranQois (p. 142), via Coulom-
miers (p. 2D2), but though 11/4 M. shorter it is served bv slower trains
(7-71/4 hrs. instead of 3-51/2 hrs.).

I. From Paris to ChS-lons-sur-Marne.

1071/2 M. Railway in 21/2-41/2 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 50, 13 fr. 20, 8 fr. 55 c).

The train passes under several streets, intersects the Chemin de
Fer de Ceinture, and crosses the Canal de St. Denis and the fortifi-
cations — 31/2 M. Pantin (25,600 inhah.). Beyond the Canal de
rOurcq we reach (5'/2 M.) Noisy-le-Sec. To the left is the large
station of the Chemin de Fer de Grande Ceinture; to the right di-
verges the railway to Belfort (R. 39). — 7 M. Bondy.

A branch-line runs hence to (21/2 M.) Gargan , where it forks, the
right branch running to (41/2 M.) Livrt/, with an ancient abbey, Ihe left
branch via the Forest of Bondy to (5 M.) Aulnay-les-Bondy, on the line to
Soissons (p. 116).

8M. Le Raincy-Villemomble. Le Raincy, to the left, is a modern
town of 5826 inhab., built in the park of the chateau, which belong-
ed to the Orleans family and was pillaged in 1848.

From Le Raincy to MoNTFiiRMEiL, 21/2 M., electric tramway in 1/2 hr.
(fares 45 c, 35 c.)

The Plateau d'Avron, beyond Villemomblc, to the right, was occupied
by the French during the siege of Paris to cover their sortie of Nov. 30th
1870; but they were forced to abandon it on Dec. 28th and 29th.

11 1/2 M. Chelles, to the left, formerly celebrated for its abbey,
destroyed after 1790. Farther on is a fort. — 14 M. Vaires-Torcy.
At Noisiel, 1/2 M. to the E. of Torcy, are the huge chocolate-factory
and the model village founded by M. Menier.

171/2 M. Lagny {Hotel du Pont de Fer, on the bank of the
Marne), a commercial town of 5340 inhab., situated on the Marne.
The early-Gothic Church of St. Pierre, with double aisles, is really
the choir of an immense abbey-church, no more of which was ever
built. In spite of its unimportant exterior it is worth a visit. In the
square near the church is a curious old fountain; and not far off are
some remains of the abbey.

MEAUX. 19. Route. 137

A branch-railway runs from Lagny to O^j-z M.) Villeneuve-le-Comte. The
trains start from a local station on the left bank of the river, about 1 M. from
the main station (omnibus) by the second turning to the left beyond the
bridge. VHleneuve-le-Comie., a \)\3ice of little importance, contains a church
of the 13th century. The line is to be prolonged to (472 M.) Mortcerf^
to meet the branch-railway from Gretz to Vitry-le-Francois (p. 292j.

Diligence from Lagny to (6 M.) F err ie res-en- Brie (p. 292), 75 c.

Beyond Lagny the train crosses the Marne and enters a short
tunnel. The river here makes a detour of 10 M. , which vessels
avoid by means of the Canal de Chalifert (to the right), which is also
carried through a tunnel. — 23 M. Esbly, on the Grand Morin, a
picturesque river which frequently floods the environs of Paris.

Branch-line under construction to (7 M.) Cricy-en-Brie (Ours), a small
town with remains of its mediseval fortifications. Chapelle-sur-Cr^cy^ '^/■iM.
to the E., has a remarkable church of the 13th century.

28 M, Meaux (Buffet; Hotel des Trois Rois , Rue St. Remy,
near the cathedral), a town with 13,620 inhah., situated on the
Marne and carrying on an active trade in grain. The curious old
Mills are situated in the hed of the river, behind the Hotel de Ville.

We enter the town via the Place Lafayette, adjoined on the left by
handsome boulevards. The old buildings on the other side are the
remains of a chateau (13th cent.) of the Counts of Champagne. Far-
ther on are the Hotel de Ville and the cathedral (to the left).

T]xe*CatJiedral ofSt.Etienneis a Gothic edifice of the 12-16th cent-
uries. The facade, well worth examination, is unfortunately marred
by the slated roof of the still unfinished S. tower. The N. tower,
which has no spire, is 250 ft. high and commands an extensive view.
Bossuet, who was Bishop of Meaux from 1681 to 1704, is buried in
this church, and a statue, by Ruxtiel, was erected in his honour in
1822 on the S. side of the choir. On the left are a handsome portal of
the 15th cent, and the kneeling statue of Philip of Castile (d. 1627).

The cathedral contains copies of nine ot RaphaeVs Cartoons, including
copies of two of the three lost cartoons, viz. Martyrdom of St. Stephen
and Conversion of St. Paul. It also has copies of frescoes by Guido Keni
and Dominichino, an Adoration of the Magi, after Cliampaigne, and an
Annunciation after Stella. — Organ-case of 1627.

To the left of the fagade of the cathedral is the Episcopal Palace
(17th cent.); to the left of the choir, the MaUrise (13th cent.). —
In the Place Henri IV is the statue of General Raoult (1810-70),
who was mortally wounded at Frceschwiller, by Aube'.

The train passes close to the cathedral as it quits Meaux, and
crosses the Canal de I'Ourcq and the Marne. — At (31 V2 M.) Tril-
port the line to Rheims via La Ferte-Milon diverges to the left
(R. 16a). Farther on is a tunnel, 735 yds. long. 36 M. Changis.

41 M. La Ferte-sous-Jouarre (Hotel de VEpee) , on the Marne,
a town with 4770 inhab., is famous for its mill-stone quarries. The
valley in which it lies is fertile and well-cultivated, and the hills
are covered with woods or vineyards.

Jouarre, 1^/4 M. to the S. (omnibus), was formerly noted for its abbey,
now replaced by a Benedictine convent. Behind the Church (15th cent.)
is a crypt of an earlier structure, with Gallo-Roman columns of marble

i^S Route 19. CHATEAU-THIERRY. From Paris

and sarcopliagi of the 13th century. — A brancli-line runs from La Ferte-
sous-Jouarre to (30 M.) Montmirail (see below).

The train crosses two bridges, threads a tunnel, 1030 yds.
long , crosses a third bridge , and skirts the left hank. — 46 M.
NanteuU-Saacy. Beyond (52 M.) Nogent-fArtaud is another tunnel.
To the left diverges the line from Chateau-Thierry to La Ferte'-
Milon (see p. 114).

59 M. Chateau-Thierry (Buffet- Hotel; Elephant,- Angleterre),
an attractive town with 7063 inhah. and manufactories of wind
instruments, is situated on the right hank of the Marne, about Y2 M.
from the station.

Beyond the bridge, to the right, is a mediocre Statue of La Fon-
taine (see below), by Laitie. Farther on is a Belfry dating from the
16th century. We ascend from the square by a flight of 102 steps to
the ruined Castle, which we enter from the right. This castle, said to
have been built by Charles Martel in 720, was besieged and taken
by the English in 1421, by Charles V. in 1544, and by other assail-
ants on various other occasions. It has now almost completely dis-
appeared, with the exception of its outer ramparts, and the plateau
on which it stood has been converted into a pleasant promenade.

Quitting the ruins by the small gateway in the tower on the
outer wall, opposite the entrance, we descend in the direction of the
College. The adjoining house (No. 12), protected by a railing, is the
house in which J. de la Fontaine (1621-95), the fabulist, was born;
it now contains a library and a small museum. In the Grande Rue,
lower down, rises the uninteresting Church (15th cent.).

From Chateau -Thierry to Romilly, 541/2 M., railway in 21/-2-3 lirs.
(fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 35 c). — This line diverges from the Chalons
railway at (5'/2 M.) Af^zi/ (see below), the first station, and ascends the valleys
of the Surmelin and the Dhuis. Part of the water supply of Paris is derived
from the Dhuis by means of an aqueduct, 81 M. long, beginning at (15 M.)
Pargvy-la-DMds. — IV^fz M. Montmirail (Hdtel du Vert-Galant), a town of
2400inhab., situated on a hill commanding the pretty valley of the Petit
Moving is noted for a victory gained by Napoleon over the Allies in 1814.
A column, a little to the W., commemorates the event. The Chateau^ which
lies to the S.W., surrounded by a large park, was magnificently rebuilt
in the 17th cent, by Louvois, the minister of war of Louis XIV. — r'4 M.
Esternay, also a station on the line from Paris to Vitry via Coulommiers
(p. 292). — Beyond (51 M.) Lurey- Con flans we cross the ^^ei^e and join the
line from Paris to Troyes. — 541/2 M. Romilly, see p. 295.

A branch-line also runs from Chateau-Thierry to (I71/2 M.) Oulchy-
Breny (p. 115), on the line from Paris to Pheims via La Ferte'-Milon.

At Chateau - Thierry begin the vineyards of Champagne. —
^41/2 M. Mezy; branch to Romilly, see above. At (72^2 ^I-) I^ornans
Henri of Guise defeated the Germans and Huguenots in 1575, but
received the wound which gave him the surname of 'Le Balafr^' or
'the scarred'. A little farther on, to the right, is Troissy, with a
handsome church of the 16th cent., and to the left are the ancient
priory of Binson and the plateau of Chatillon-sur- Marne, where a
colossal statue of Pope Urban II. (1042-99), who was born in the
neighbourhood, ^^as erected in 1887, from a design by Roubaud. —

to Nancy. EPERNAY. 19. Route. 1 39

78 M. Port-ci-Binson. Near (84 M.) Dawery-Boursault, the next
station, rises fto the right) the ^Chateau of Boursault^ in the Renais-
sance style, now the property of the Duchesse d'Uzes.

88 M. Epernay. — Hotels. De l'Europe, Rue Porte-Lucas; de
Paris, Place Auban-Moet, pens. T'/2 fr. ; Hot.-Rest. dk la Gare, Place
Thiers. — Cafes. De Paris, Rue Porte-Lucas-, Sparnacien, Place Thiers; etc.
— -'Buffet at the station.

Epernay^ the Sparnacum of antiquity, a town with 19,377 inhab.,
prettily situated on the left hank of the Marne, is one of the centres
of the champagne-trade. The handsome houses in the suhurh of
La Folie, on the E., close to which the train passes as it quits the
town, afford some indication of the lucrative nature of the local
industry. Either here or at Rheims (p. 122} a visit should he paid
to one of the vast Cellars of the champagne-makers, consisting of long
galleries, hewn in the chalk rock, containing hundreds of thousands
of bottles and admirably adapted for the numerous delicate opera-
tions necessary for the production of the wine.

Champagce is said to have been invented at the beginning of last
century. Us distinguishing quality of effervescence is due to the fact that its
fermentation is arrested and recommences on fresh contact vs'ith the air.
The wine may be made either from black or white grapes; but the pro-
duct of the former contains more spirit and 'creams' rather than foams,
while that of the latter is distinguished by its fine transparency and by
active effervescence. The must produced by pressing the grapes is first
placed in casks until it has deposited its lees. The liquid is then drawn
off about the middle of December and fined by the addition of tannine
and alum. Three months or so later it is again drawn off and put into
bottles, where a second fermentation is induced by the addition of a
liqueur containing sugar-candy and brandy. The bottles are made of very
strong and thick glass, weighing 26-30 oz. each, but nevertheless many of
them break during the fermentation. As the fermentation goes on, it be-
comes necessary to reduce the temperature by removing the bottles to a
cooler cellar. The sediment resulting from this second fermentation is
collected, in the second year, in the necks cf the bottles by placing them in
racks head downward, and is then got rid of by a process called 'disgorging'
('de'gorger'), in which the cork is allowed to fly out. The bottles are then
tilled up with fined wine and liqueur, and the champagne is ready for sale.

From Epernay to La F^re-Champenoise (Romilly), 25V2 M., railway
in 11/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). — This line diverges to the
right from the Strassburg railway at (41/2 M.) Oiry-Mareuil^ and traverses
a wine-growing district, via (8V2 M.) Avize and (14 M.) Verlus. — 25V2 M,
La Fire-Champenoise is also a station on the line from Paris to Vitry-le-
Francois (p. 2!j2), from which there diverges, at Sizanne, 6 M. to the W.,
a branch to Romilly (p. 295).

From Epernay to Rheims (Me'zieres; Metz), see p. 117.

92 M. Oiry-Mareuil, see above. About 3 M. to the S. of (99 M.)
Jalons-les-Vignes, near the Chateau of Ecury at Champigneul, is a
very ancient heronry, occupied by the birds from Feb. to August.

107^2 M. ChS,lons-SUr-Marne. — Hotels. De la Haute -MfiRE-
DiEU (PI. a; C, 2), DU Renard (PI. b; C, 2), Place de la Republique 26 & 24,
pens. 71/2-8 fr. ; de la Cloche d"Or (PI. c; D, 2), Rue St. Jacques 2, near Notre
Dame-, du Chemin-de-Fer, near the station. — Restaurants. Albert, Rue
de Marne 85, de'j. from IV2, D. 2 fr. ; Buffet at the station. — Cafes. Bourse,
Bellevue, etc., in the Place de la Republique; des Oiseaux, Rue de THotel-
de-Ville, etc.

no Route 19. CHALONS-SUR-MARNE. From Paris

Cabs. Per drive between 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. (7-8 in winter), 1 fr. ;
between 10 p.m. and midnight, IV4 ; at night 2 fr. •, per hr., 2, 21/2, or 3 fr.
— To L''Epine, 6 fr. thei-e and back, with stay of 1 hr. — Electric Tram-
ways. From the Station (PI. A, 2) to the Fauhourg St. Jean (PI. E, 3); from
the Peiit-FagnUres (comp. PI. A, 2) to the Fauhourg St. Jacques (PI. D, 1) ;
15 or 20 c.

Chalons- sur-Marne, with 26,630 inhab., is the chief town of
the department of the Marne , the headquarters of the 6th Army
Corps, and the seat of a bishop. It is also an important centre of
the champagne trade.

Chalons, the Gaialaunnm of the Romans, is mentioned as early as the
3rd century. In 451 the neighbourhood was the scene of the great defeat
of Attila and his Huns by the Romans and the allied Franks and "Visigoths.
This sanguinary and hard-won victory, reckoned by Sir Edward Creasy
among the 'Fifteen Decisive Battles of the World', checked Attila's 'mighty
attempt to found a new anti-Christian dynasty upon the wreck of the tem-
poral power of Rome". In 1430 and 1434 the town successfully defended
itself against attacks by the English ; but in 1814 it was occupied by the Prus-
sians, in 1815 by the Russians, and in Aug., 1870, by the Germans.

From the Station (PL A, 2) we turn to the left, cross the rail-
way, the Marne (which flows in an artificial channel excavated in
1776), and finally the lateral canal, at the entrance of the town
proper. Thence the Rue de Marne leads straight to the Hotel de Ville.

The Cathedral (Pl.B, 0, 2), to the right in this street, is a hand-
some Gothic edifice, built in the 13th cent, and recently restored.
The large portal, in the classic style, was added in the 17th century.
The fine interior contains some stained glass of the 13-16th cent., a
canopied high-altar, with six marble columns, two handsome tomb-
stones, on the pillars to the left and right of the choir, and several
other works of art. The choir is prolonged into the nave, as at
l^heims.

Opposite the cathedral is the Institution St. Edenne, a theolog-
ical seminary. The square in front of it is embellished with a re-
production of Mercie"s 'Gloria Victis', now it) Paris. To the left is
the Hotel Dieu (PI. B, 2), founded in the 16th century. — The
Episcopal Palace (PI. C, 2), in the Rue du Cloitre, behind the cath-
edral, contains a good collection of 60 ancient paintings, presented
by the Abbe .Toannos (d. 1864). — The Rue Lochet, diverging from
the Rue de Marne beyond the cathedral, leads to the Jard (p. 141),
passing the Ecole des Arts et Metiers (PI. C, 1-2),

The Hotel de Ville (PI. 0, 2), erected in the 18th cent., presents
few features of interest. In front is a Monument to President Camot.
The building to the right contains the Library^ with about 70,000
vols, (open daily, except Wed., 12 to 5), and the Musee (adm.
Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 4 or 5; to strangers on other days also).

In the court between the library and the JIusee a church-jiortal oftho
17th cent, has been re-erected, and a good collection of Hindoo gods
arranged. — On the groundlloor arc antiquities, casts, and modern sculp-
tures. — On the first floor are natural history collections, reproductions
in carved wood of noted French works of art, and the Collection Picot, con-
sisting chiefly of furniture, small works of art, and paintings. Among
the last are a St. Jerome by Van Ei/cl; two Old Men by Holbein., an Old

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to Nancy. CHALONS-SUR-MARNE. 19. lioicte. 141

Woman ascribed io Rembrandt, and a Triumpli of Diana "by Primaticdo. ~
On this floor also are some mediocre modern French paintings, etc.

The church of Notre-Dame (PI. C, D, 2), a few yards behind the
Hotel de Ville, second in interest to the cathedral alone, dates from
the 12-14th cent, and presents a union of the Romanesque and
Gothic styles. It has two towers, surmounted hy modern spires, on
the fagade, and two others to the E. of the transepts. The stained
glass windows (16th cent.) are fine, especially the first two on the
left side. The aisles are provided with capacious galleries, and the
tlnee chapels in the apse are each preceded by two columns, from
which the vaulting springs. There are several fine monuments.

Farther on towards the E., on the outskirts of the town, is the church
of St. Loup (PI. E. 2), dating from the 14-15th cent., with a handsome and
recently restored interior. It contains a statue of St. Christopher, referred
to the 15th cent., and a few ancient paintings, including a small triptych
(Adoration of the Magi; visitors may open it), by an early Flemish master,
in the 2nd chapel on the right. — The church of <S^ Jo/tn (PI. E, 3), at
the S.E. extremity of the town, dates from the ll-15th cent, and unites a
Gothic choir with Romanesque naA'e and aisles. — Notre Dame de VEpine,
see below.

To the left of the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville is the church of
St. Alpin (PI. C, 2J, dating from the 12-13th, and 15-16th centuries.
It contains numerous ancient paintings, the chief of which are a
Christ, in the style of Albrecht Diirer, signed Ant. Perot and dated
1551 (in the 3rd chapel to the right), a Christ at Emmaus, after
Ph. de Champaigne, and a Bearing of the Cross, attributed to Peru-
giiio (in the following chapels). This church has also some fine
stained glass of the 16th century.

The Place de la Repuhlique (PI. C,»2), a little beyond St. Alpin,
forms the centre of the town. To the right, at its other end, is the
Jard (PJ. B, C, 3; band on Sun. and Thurs. afternoons), a public
park lying in front of the Chateau du Marche, a small erection of the
17-18th cent., partly lestored, and now occupied by a savings-bank.
The Rue Lochet, built above a canal passing under the chateau,
leads hence back to the town, passing on its way a handsome Syn-
agogue and a Protestant Church. The Jard is bounded on the right
by a canal, between which and the Marne lies the Jar din Anglais
(P1.B,3). — On the left is the Cours d'Ormesson (PI. C, 3), with an
Agricultural Laboratory and the Jardin des Plantes. At the end of
the Cours is the Prefecture (PI. D, 3), erected in the 18th cent., fac-
ing the Rue Ste. Croix, in which are the modern Archives. The Grand
Seminaire, to the right of the prefecture, contains a small geological
and archaeological museum. At the end of the Rue Ste. Croix rises
the still unfinished Porte Ste. Croix (PI. D, 3), a triumphal arch,
60 ft. high, erected in 1770 to welcome Marie Antoinette.

5^ot far from the station, from which its two towers are visible, is
the former Manor of Jacquesson, now used as a distillery, brewery, and
malt-house. Connected with it are 7 M. of cellarage, hewn in the chalk,
which are generally shown on application.

About 5 M. to the E., on the road to Ste. Menehould, is the village
of L'Epine, famous for its beautiful and much-frequented ^Pilgrimage

i 4:2 Route 19. VITRY-LE-FRANgOIS. From Paris

Churchy built in 1420-1529 to shelter a miraculous statue of the Virgin,
found in a thorn-busli by some shepherds. The spires of the two W.
towers are modern. The portal is especially elaborate. In the interior
(completely restored in 1890) the miraculous image (restored), the organ
of the 16th cent., the choir-screen, the treasury, and the representation of
the Holy Sepulchre should be noticed.

From Chalons-sur-Marne to Troyes^ see p. 300 (local station near the
main-line station); to Metz via Verdun, see p. 124.

II. From Ch§,lons-sur-Marne to Nancy.

112 M. Railwat in 23/4-574 hrs. (fares 20 fr. 35, 13 fr. 80, 8 fr. 00 c).

The line skirts the chalk hills on the right bank of the Marne,
traversing the wide plain known as the Champagne Pouilleuse.
At (108^2 M. from Paris) Coolus the line to Troyes (p. 300) diverges
to the riglU. 116^2 M, Vltry-la-Ville, with a chateau of the 18th
cent., to the right; 123 '/2 M. Loisy, with a handsome Gothic church
of the 13th cent., to the left. We next cross the Marne and reach —

127 M. Vitry-le-Francois (* Hotel des Voyageurs , Eue de
Vaux 34; Cloche d'Or, Rue de Frignicourt 44; de la Gare), a town
with 8400 inhab., founded on a regular plan in 1545 by Francis T.
in place of Vitry-le-BriUe^ 2V2 M. to the N.E., which was destroyed
by Charles V. in 1544. The Avenue Carnot, constructed since 1895
on the site of the former fortifications, leads directly from the station
to a new square, embellished with a monument commemorating the
Review at Vitry in 1891. Behind is the Hotel de Ville^ containing a
small Musee^ which includes natural history and antiquarian collec-
tions and the picture-gallery and curiosities collected by the late
Vicc-Admiral Page. Thence the Rue Domine-de-Verzet leads to
the Place d'Armes, in the centre of tlie town, whence radiate the
three other chief streets (Rue de Frignicourt, Rue de Vaux, and
Rue du Pont). On the left side of the Place is the church of Notre
Bame, a large and handsome edifice of the 17th cent., containing
two noteworthy monuments of the end of the 18th century. In a
small square to the right is a bronze statue, by Marochetti, of P. P.
Royer-Collard [1763-1845), philosopher and politician, born in the
environs.

Fkom Vitry-le-Fuanv'ois to Jessains (Troyes, Chaumonf), 33'/.: 3r.,
railway in 1V2-13/4 hr. (fares 5 fr. 95 c, 4 fr., 2 fr. GO c). — At (21 M.) Valeii-
iigny, the sixth station, a branch diverges to St. Dizier (p. 307).

25 M. Brienne-le-Chateau (Croix Blanche; Hayard) is famous as the
seat of a milifai-y school (suppressed in 1790), of which Napoleon 1. was a
pupil (1779-84). A bronze statue o( Napoleon at the age of sixteen, in
front of the Hotel de Ville, commemorates the fact. It was also the scene
of a sanguinary struggle on .Tan. 29th, 1814, between Xapoloon and Rliichcr,
in which the latter was forced to retire. Brienne has given name to a
family of distinction, one of whose members, Jean, was King of Jerusalem
in 1209 and Emperor of Constantinople in 1231-37. Ab^tve the town
rises the large Chateau of the Prince do BautTremont-diurtenay, dating
from the 18th century. The park is open to the public, and the collection
of paintings (numer .us portraits) in the interior may also be visited. The
Church (16th cent.) contains some fine stained glass. — Railway to Troyes
via Piney, see p. 300.

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to Nancy. BAR-LE-DUO. 19. Route. 143

The railway to Jessains next ascends the valley of the Aube, which
it crosses beyond (28V2 M.) Bienville. We now join the line from Troyes
to Chaumont, and reach (33V'2 M.) Jessains (p. 3U0).

From Vitry-le-Francois to Paris via Coulommiers, see p. 292.

Beyond Vitry the railway crosses the Marne for the last time
and skirts the lihine and Marne Canal ^ which hegins at Vitry and
ends at the 111, near Strasshurg, a distance of 195 M. — The scenery
now becomes monotonous. 135 '/2 M. Blesme-Haussignemont (small
Buffet) is the junction for Chaumont and Epinal (see p. 307). 143 M.
Sermaize (Hot. de la Cloche ; de la Source, at the Ktahlissement),
on the Saulx, with a small Etablissement de Bains, 1/2 M. from the
station, supplied hy a mineral spring resembling that of Contrexe'-
viUe(p. 316J.

We next cross the Saulx, the Ehine and Marne Canal, and the
Ornain, and reach (148 M.) Revigny-sur-V Ornain.

Branch-railway to (171/2 M.) Si. Bizier, see p. 307; to Amagne-Lucquy, via.
Ste. Mene/iould, see p. 127. Local railways also run to the S.E., through the,
valley of the Saulx, to (IG'/- M.) Ilaironville, and to the N.E., to (21 '/j M.)
Triaucom'l, via (14 M.) Lisle-en-Bairoif, whence a branch diverges to lieinbei'-
court-aux-Pots (p. 144).

1571/2 M. Bar-le-Duc. — Hotels. Du Cygnk (PI. a; B, 2)5 i>e Mktz
& DU Commerce (PI. b; B, 2), Rue de la Rochelle Nos. >^ & 17-, bk la Gake,
with cafe, opposite the Gare de TEst (PI. C, 1). — Cafes. Bes Oiseaux, at
the theatre (see below); Lambert, at the Hotel de Motz; de la Gare.

Cabs. Per drive in the Ville Basse, 1 fr. ; to the Villc Haute, IV2 fr. ;
per hr. (1-2 pers.) 2 fr., each addit. pers. 50 c.

Bar-le-Duc, the ancient capital of the Dukes of Bar and the chief
town of the department of the Meuse, with 18,250 inhab., is situated
on the Ornain and the heights rising on its left bank. It was the
birth-place of the second Duke of Guise (1519-63), Marshal
Oudinot (1767-1847), and Marshal Exelmans (1775-1852). Bar-
le-Duc is noted for its preserves, and it also produces good wine.

The busiest part of the town is the 'Ville Basse', which is inter-
sected from E. to W. by the Rue de la Rochelle, the principal street.
At the E. end of this street is the new church of St Jean (PI. 8 ;
D, 2), an imposing edifice in the Romanesque style, of which the
lofty choir, with a canopied altar, is raised above a crypt.

The Rue P^ntre-deux-Ponts, leading to the left at the other end
of the Rue de la Rochelle, begins at the Monument of the Michaux,
who introduced important improvements in the manufacture of
bicycles, and passes the elaborate Renaissance fa^^ade of the Theatre
(PI. 18; B, 2). Behind the latter is the Cafe des Oiseaux, one of
the sights of the town, the fine saloon of which is surrounded by
glass-cases, containing stuffed birds and other animals. — Farther
on is the Place Reggio (PL B, 2), embellished with a bronze statue,
by J. Debay, of Marshal Oudinot, Duke of Reggio (see above). —
Farther up, to the left, is the church of St. Antoine (PI. 6; B, 2),
of the 14th cent., with good window-tracery and stained glass. A
canalized arm of the Ornain flows beneath the church.

The 'Ville Haute', or upper town, is commanded by a Clock

Ii4: Route 19. BAR-LE-DUC. From Paris

Tower, whicli may be reached from St. Antoine's, yia the Rue de
I'Horloge and the Rue de I'Armurier.

The church of St. Etienne or St. Pierre (PI. 7; C, 3) is the prin-
cipal building in Bar-le-Duc. It dates from the 14th cent., with the
exception of the portal, flanked by a tower, which was added at the
end of the following century. The screens of the two chapels in the
right aisle are noteworthy, but the chief object of interest is a *Statue
(in the right transept), by Ligier Richer, of St. Mihiel in Lorraine
(p. 131), a pupil of Michael Angelo, representing a corpse in which
decay has already set in. It is carved of St. Mihiel stone soaked in
wax and oil to give it the appearance and durability of marble, and
formed part of the tomb of Rene de Chalons, Prince of Orange, who
was killed in 1544 at the siege of St. Dizier.

No. 21, Place St. Pierre, a handsome old house of the early
Renaissance period, contains a small Musee, open to the public on
Sun., 1-4, and to strangers at other times also.

The collections, occupying four saloons, comprise specimens of natural
history, a small gallery of paintings (chiefly modern), some sculptures, :i
portion of an altar-piece (Death of the Virgin and Assumption), and a
handsome chimney-piece. Among the few ancient paintings are a portrait
of Tintoretto hy hiitiself and some canvases of the old French school; the
sculptures include antique busts of Trajan and Hadrian.

There are a number of other interesting old buildings in the
'Ville Haute', especially in the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar. A house in
which Prince Charles Edward Stuart lived for three years is also
pointed out. At the upper end of the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar is Le
Pdquis, a promenade shaded by fine elms. The Avenue du Chateau,
at the other end, passes near the remains of the Chateau (PL 2; B, 3),
destroyed in the 17th century. In the Rue Lapique, which leads
down from this vicinity to the Rue de la Rochelle (p. 143), is the
Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 2), formerly Oudinofs mansion.

FiiOM Bar-le-Duc to Clermont-en-Argonne and to Verdun, 35 and
42 M. This railway has a special station in the Kue St. Mihiel, to the
S.E., not far from the canal. At (12'/? M.) Bembercourt-aux-Pois a branch-
line diverges to Lisle-en-Barrois (p. J43). — At (IS'/j M.) Beauzee the line
forks, one branch leading to (35 M.) Clermont-en-Argonne (p. 124), the other
to (42 M.) Verdun (p. 124).

161 M. Longeville; I641/2 M. Nangois-Tronville. Railway to
Neufchateau-Epinal, see p. 308. To the right is the Marne canal,
which farther on makes a wide curve and enters the valley of the
Meuse by means of a tunnel 2'/2 M. long, while the railway bends
to the left. Beyond (171 M.) Ernecourt-Loxe ville the train enters
the cuttings by which the line pierces the heights between the
valleys of the Seine and Meuse. — 178 M. Lvrouville.

Eailway to Sedan via Verdun, see p. 131.

183 M. Commercy (Hotel de Paris), a town with 8100 inhab., is
situated on an arm of the Meuse. The Chateau of the 17th cent.,
which the train passes on quitting the station, was at one time the
residence of Stanislaus, King of Poland and Duke of Lorraine; and
here Cardinal de Ret/, (d. 1619) wrote his memoirs. It is now used

to Nancy. TOUL. 19. Route. 145

as "barracks. In tlie town is a bronze Statue of Dom Calmet (1672-
1757), the learned historian, who was horn in the neighbourhood.
Commercy is noted for its 'Madeleines', a kind of cake (1 fr, 20 c.-2 fr.
per box).

The train now crosses two arms of the Meuse. 188 M. Sorcy,
beyond which a tunnel, 612 yds. long, is traversed.

191 M. Pagny-sur-Meuse (Buffet -Hotel). Railway to Neuf-
chateau and Epinal, see R. 40 c. We now enter the valley of the
Moselle by a tunnel 3/^ M. long, and
and Marne Canal. — 194 M. Foug.

199 M. Toul {Hotel de Metz, Rue Gambetta; de la Cloche d'Or,
Rue de la Republique), the Tullum Leucorum of the Romans, is
one of the most ancient towns in Lorraine and has been the seat of a
bishop for 1200 years. It is a fortress of the first class, and was taken
by the Germans on Sept. 23r(l, 1870, after a siege of thirty-eight
days. Pop. 12,200. The town is situated between the canal and the
Moselle, about Y2 M. from the station. From the Porte de France^ by
which we enter from the station, the Rue Thiers and Rue Gambetta
lead towards the centre of the town and are continued by the Rue
de la Republique (to the right) in the direction of the Porte de la
Moselle, where the river is spanned by a bridge dating from 1770.

The church of St. Gengoult, a fine Gothic edifice of the 13-15th
cent., is reached by turning to the left at the end of the Rue Gam-
betta. The interior is unusually lofty, and the large windows are
filled with fine stained glass of the 13th cent. The finest part of the
church is, however, the beautiful Flamboyant Cloisters, to the N. of
the nave, dating from the 16th century. These are enclosed on both
sides by six double arcades resting on very light and graceful columns
and separated from each other by small truncated columns. The clois-
ters give on a small square, through which we may reach the church
of St. Etienne, via the Rue Lafayette (right). Rue Michatel (left),
and Rue Liouville (right).

*St. Ftienne, the former cathedral, is noteworthy for its size
and its harmonious proportions, and still more for its beautiful W.
front, which is flanked by two light and graceful towers, terminating
in octagonal lanterns. The choir and transepts date from the 13th,
the nave from the 14th and 15th, and the fagade from the 15th cent-
uries. The * Cloisters which adjoin this fine church on the S. were built
in the 13-14th cent, and are larger and even more beautiful than
those of St. Gengoult. They form a rectangle, 75 yds. long and
55 yds. broad, and consist of 22 sections with four arches, each with
four small clustered columns and two small isolated columns,
besides the archway to the court. — The Chapel entered from the
cloisters contains a large altar-piece, with figures in full relief, re-
presenting the Adoration of the Shepherds.

The large and imposing Hotel de Ville , built in the 18th cent.,
was formerly the bishop's palace.

BAEDEKEK'a Kortheru France. 3rd Edit. 10

146 Route 20. NANCY. Hotels.

From St. Etienue the Rue d'lnglemure leads to tlie Rue and
Place de la Republique, in the latter of which is a good cafe'.

A brancli-line ascends the valley of the Moselle from Toul to (15 M.)
Pont- Si- Vincent (p. 315),'fvia Chaudeney - sur - Moselle , near which are some
interesting caverns (partly unexplored).

From Toul to Mirecowt and to Epinal, see p. 310.

As the train leaves Toul we enjoy a fine view, to the right, of
both its churches and especially of the facade of St. Etienne. We
cross the canal and then the Moselle. — 204 M. Fonten ay -sur- Mo-
selle. The river and canal run parallel to the railway. We again
cross the river and reach (210 M.) Liverdun, finely situated to the
left, with remains of fortifications. The church , containing inter-
esting sculptures , dates from the 13th cent. ; tlie governor's house
from the 15th. — The tunnel (to the left), 550 yds. long, by which
the canal is carried beneath the town, and the bridge (to the right)
by which it crosses the Moselle, near the railway-bridge, are strik-
ing examples of engineering skill. The scenery at this point is, per-
haps, the most beautiful on the entire journey.

At (214 M.) Frouard (Buffet-Hotel), a village of 3683 Inhab., the
railway to Metz (R. 18a) diverges to the left, while the line to Nancy
quits the valley of the Moselle and enters the valley of the Meurthe.
— 216 M. Champigneulles, with iron-works. Railway to Chateau-
Salins, Vic, etc., see p. 152. — In the distance, to the left, we
catch a glimpse of Nancy. — 219 M. Nancy (Rail. Restaurant).

20. Nancy.

Hotels. Gkaxd Hotel (PI. d ; C, 3, 4), Place Stanislas 2, variously spoken
of, pens. 11 fr.; dk Fkance (PI. a-, B. 4), Rue Gambetta 39, pens. 11 fr. ;
DE l'Eukope (PL b; B, C, 4), Rue dcs C:irmes 5, R.. L., & A. 2V2-5, B. I'A,
dej. 3V2, D. 4, pens. 8V2 fr., omn. 60 c. - i fr. ; u'Angletekke (PI. e; B, 4),
Rue Stanislas, pens. 9 fr. ; Ameeicain (PI. c; B, 4), Place St. Jean, near the
station, well-managed and moderate; -de Metz. Rue du Faubourg- Stanis-
las G, near the station, R., L., & A. 2V'.') dtj. 3 fr. ; de Lorraine, Place
Dombasle.

Restaurants. Stanislas, Place Stanislas 9; at the Grand Hdtel and IlCtel
Amiricain (see above); Rocher de Cancale, Rue des Carmes 11; and at the
Brasseries mentioni'd below. — Kailicaii Restaurant.

Cafes. Ca/d de VOpira, at the beginning of the Promenade, beyond
the Porte Royale; Cafe de la Comedie, Place Stanislas; Cafi du Grand Hdtel
(see above) ; Continental., des Deux Hemispheres, Place Thiers, etc. — Brasseries.
Grande Brasserie Lorraine., Hue St. Jean 5. dej. 2^fi, I). 3 fr. ; Brasserie
Vienitoise., Rue des Michottes 6 (PL B, 3), doj. 2'/2, D. 3 fr. ; Grande Brasserie
de I L'st, at Maxcville (closed in winter).

Cabs. With one horse, IV4, luggage-cab IV2, with two horses l^/i fr. per
drive; per hr. 3/4 fr. more. From midnight to 6 a.m., V2 fr- nior<2 per drive
or per hr.

Tramways traverse the town from Maxoville (N.) to Bonsecouvs (S.);
from Malzcville (N.E.) to Preville (W.) 1 and from the Pont d'Essey (E.) to
the Bon-Coin (S W.). Fare 10, 15, or 20 c.

Theatres. Theatre Municipal., Place Stanislas (PL C, 3); Eden Tl,4dtre
(PL B, 4), Place St. Jean; Casino des Families, Rue St. Georges, near the
cathedral. — Felos, concerts, and exhibitions take place in the Salle Foirel
PL B, 4), Rue Poirel, near the station.

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Post & Telegraph Office (PI. C, 4), Rue de la Constitution 9; also at
the railway-station.

Baths. Bains dn Casino, Passage du Casino (PI. C, 4), Rue St. Dizier 21,
and Rue des Dominicuins 40; Bains du Petit-Paris, Rue Pierre-Fourrier 16
(PI. C, 4).

French Protestant Service in the Temple, Place St. Jean, at 10a.m.
— French Methodist Chapel, Rue Ste. Anne 6; services at 10.30a.m.

Among the specialties of Nancy are Embroidery, Macaroons, and Art-
istic Pottery and Glass.

Nancy, the capital of the Departement de Meurthe-et~Moselle,
and the seat of a hishop, formerly the capital of Lorraine and the
seat of the dukes, of whom Stanislaus Lesczingki (d. 1766), ex-
king of Poland, was the last, is situated on the Meurthe, and con-
tains 96,300 inhabitants. It was greatly embellished by Leopold
(d. 1720), predecessor of Stanislaus, and is one of the best-built
towns in France. The surrounding vineyards contribute much to the
beauty of the situation. The University of Nancy has risen in im-
portance since the annexation of Strassburg to Germany, and its Ecole
Forestiere, or school of forestry, is the only establishment of the kind
in France. Until quite recently the British Government regularly
sent pupils to this school under the charge of an officer.

After taking Nancy in 1475 and losing it again in the following year,
Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, was defeated and slain beneath its
walls by the Duke of Lorraine and the Swiss on Jan. 5th, 1477 (new style).
Nancy was one of the lirst places in which the Revolutionary spirit was
shown by the troops in 1790, and Carlyle gives a vivid account in his
'•French Revolution^ of the uprising of 'Chateau- Vieux' and its suppression by
Bouille. In 1870 the town was occupied by the Germans without resist-
ance. — Among the famous natives of Nancy are Callot (1598-1635), Bylvestre
(d. 1691), and St. Urlain (d. 1758), the engravers; Hiri (17U1-63). the ar-
chitect; Z)om6as;e (1777-1843), the agriculturalist; Marshal Drouot{\.ll'A-iW-^l):,
Isabey (1767-1855), the painter, and Grandcille (or G&rard ; lb'03-47), the
caricaturist (p. 150).

The Place Thiers (PI. A, B, 4), in front of the station, is adorned
with a statue of Thiers (1797-1877), President of the French Re-
public, by Guilbert, erected in 1879. The town is entered by the
Porte Stanislas, one of the seven handsome gates of Nancy. Farther
on, to the left, are the Place Carnot and Cours Leopold (p. 151).
To the right, in a small square in front of the Lycee, is a Statue
of Dombasle (see above) by David d'Angers. The former Universite,
to the left of the square, now contains a Puhlic Library, with
85,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. (open daily, except Sun. and holidays,
9-12 in summer, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. in winter). The Rue Stanislas
leads hence to the square of that name, crossing the Rue St. Dizier,
the busiest in the town.

The *Place Stanislas (PI. C, 3, 4), the finest point in the town,
with a bronze Statue of Stanislaus Lesczinski, by Jacquot, erected in
1831, is surrounded with handsome edifices by Here', and adorned
with tasteful iron railings of the 18th cent., and two monumental
fountains. To the E. rises the Episcopal Palace, to the W. the
Theatre, to the N. (at a little distance) the Porte Royale (p. 150), and
to the S. the Hotel de Ville.

10*

148 Route 20. NANCY. Musee.

The Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 4), built in the 17th cent., contains
a very handsome ball or concert room, with frescoes by Girardet of
Nancy (1709-78), and a fine staircase with wrought-iron banisters
by Lam our. Several rooms are occupied by a Musee^ containing an-
cient and modern paintings, open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.,
from 12 to 4, but accessible to strangers on other days also.

First Floor. — Paintings. Room I. To the right, 50. Buccio, Madonna;
111. Sassoferrato^ Madonna 5 129. EaHi/ Copy of P. Veronese^ Marriage at Cana.
— 124. Tobar^ 3Ionk praying; 30. Ann. Carracci, Christ at the Sepulchre;
•47. C. Dolci, Descent from the Cross; 90. P. da Gortona, Cumaian Sibyl
announcing to Augustus the birth of Christ. — 88. S. Containni, Holy Family;
6. Baroccio, Annunciation; ■87. Pervgino, Madonna, Christ, St. John, and
angels. — 69. Guido Reni, Cleopatra; 238. Koeberger., Martyrdom of St. Se-
bastian; 273. ^Mte^.s, Transfiguration (painted in Italy under the influence
of Caravaggio); 272. Rotten// ammer i'^), G(iod Samaritan; 125. A. Vaccaro,
Christ appearing to one of the Holy Women; 234. Van Hemessen, Expul-
sion of the money-changers; 423. Le Barbier, Death of Desilles (p. 151);
25. Cardi, Jacoh's ladder; 119. Tintoretto, Christ at the Sepulchre; 208.
De Grayer, Plague at Milan; 101. Rih&ra, l^aptism of Christ; 211. Dietrich,
Philosopher; 96. Pordenone, Parting of St. Peter and St. Paul; 263. Potirhus
the Younger, Annunciation. — 265. After Rembrandt, Good Samaritan; 2.
A. del Sarto, Tobias and the angel; 80. Fieravius (il Maltese), Armour; lOS.
A. Sacc/d, Sixtus V. at the 'Corpus Christi' procession. — In the middle,
Equestrian statue of Duke Charles III., in bronze, by C/ialignu.

Room II, to the left of the entrance. — To the right. 19. Suardi, St.
Catharine; 132. Scliool of Verocchio, 58. School of Ghirlandajo, Madonnas;
60. Giordano (V), Lot and bis daughters. — 12. Bassano, Christ and Caiaphas;
52. Feti, Melancholy (replica of the painting in the Louvre); 74. L. da
Vinci I'}), Salvator Mundi ; 24. Garavaggio, Descent from the Cross; 1.
Alberli, Portrait; 36. Cerquozzi, Fruit; 51. Feti, Archangel; 10. Bassano^
Deluge; 26. Gardi, Entombment of Christ; 84. Mola. Fli-ht into Egypt;
150. Italian School, The Vestal Tucia vindicating her innocence by drawing
water in a sieve; 83. Early Goi>y of Michael Angela, Rape of Ganymede;
41. Cignaiii , Madonna; 2i0. Roos (Rvsa di Tivoli) , Shepherd and flock;
285. Stradanus , Beai-ing of the Cross; 418. Jouvenet, Raising of Lazarus;
190. Bakhuysen, Sea-piece; 250, 251. Jos. Vernet. Woman ruins; 29. Gordi{'i)^
St. Francis; 62. Guardi. Piazza di S. Marco; 138. Bolognese School, Fish
merchant; 38. Cerquozzi, Fruit; 105. .Kicd, Dido; 40. Gignani, Infant Moses;
113. Schedone, Christ and the Madonna; 121. Tintoretto. Diana; 11. Bassano,
Christ and the Holy Women; 49. Domenichino. St. Francis of As.«isi; Ger-
quozzi, 37. Grapes, 39(?), Bowls; 120. Tintoretto, Pentecost; 362. Le Guaspre,
Landscape; 14§. Florentine School, St. Cecilia; 144. Spanish School, Marriage
of St. Catharine ; 109. Sacchi, Trinity ; 59. J. Ghisolfi (?), St. John in the wil-
derness; 5. School of A. del Sarto ^ Entombment; no number, Pordenone,
Portrait; 54. Fr. Furini, Proserpine and Pluto ; 61. Granacci, Trinity. — 20.
Suardi {"}), St. Lucy.

Room III, adjoining, whence a staircase descends to the sculptures
(p. 149). To the right: 195. Breenbergh, Landscape; 256. A. van Ostad^^
Still-life; 223. Fr. Franck, Holy Family. 214. Van Dyck. Madonna aud Child
(replica of the painting at Dreslen); 198, 199. Breydel, Landscapes; 289.
Teniers the Younger, Fortune-teller; 22i. Fr. Franck the Younger and J.
de Momper, Cbrist in the desert; 262. Pourbus the Fldtr. Portrait; 292.
Van Thulden, Christ after the Scourging; '215. Rubens, Jonah; 201. P. Bril,
Landscape; 243, Lievens. Crucilixion ; 217. Gopy of Van Dyck, Salvator
Mundi; 274. Rubens, Christ walking upon the water; 255. G. van Os,
Portrait; 227. Jo7'daens {'!), Studies of heads; 222. Van Everdingen, Land-
scape; 248. Matsys, Money-changers; 258. J. Peelers, Sea-piece; 244. Jean
Looten, Oaks; 194. Van Braedacl, Poultiy-yard; 189. ra» ^sc/i, Wind-mill;
281. J. van Ruisdael. Oaks; 1%. Brueghel the Younger. Village festival; 2,6.
Van Goyen. Landscape; 290. Teniers the Younger, Village-scene; 282. J. ran
Ruisdael^ Hut; 200. Bril, Ruined tower; 297. Wouters, Andromeda; 2u2.

Musee. NANCY, 20. Route. 149

F. B., Dutcli cook ; 228. Van der ffagen, Sunset; 220. Elshaimer, Good Samar-
itan-, 230. ffeemske7'/c , Pancake?; 261. Van Pool. Winter. — 209. Dekker,
Bridge; 241. Lambrecht, Vegetable-sellers; 260. C. Poelenburg^ Diana bathine; ;
293. Van Thulden, Perseus and Andromeda; 221. Van Es , Still-life; 264.
/. van Ravestein{i)^ Portrait. — 251. /. de Mompcr, Caravan; 197. ''Velvet^
Brueghel(^), Landscape; 253. /. Muller ^ Landscape; 225. Francois, Abbe
Gre'goire; 306. Flemish School, Village festival; 212. JDurer, St. Jerome;
227. Guervilkr, Calvary; German Lchool, 288. Christ at the Sepulchre, SCO.
Circle of children, 287. Beheading of John the Baptist; '602. Flemish School,
Descent from the Cross; 298. German School, Rape of Helen; 206. Cranach
the Younger {'0, Birth of the Virgin; 299. German School., St. Jerome; 3u3.
Flemish School^ AdovAiion of the Shepherds; 128. Ke/a^gwe^, Philip IV. ; 102.
Rihera (?), Sorceress ; 71.'y. Labrador, Still-life ; 101. Rihera, Bai)tism of Christ;
216. Van Dijck(l), Count John of Nassau and his family, 236. After K. du
Jardin., Thicket.

Room IV. French School of the end of the 18th and beginning of the
19th centuries. To the right and left, 458, 45i9. Meunier, Palace-interiors.
To the left: 410. Jsabcy, Napijleon I.; 3?0. Brascassat, Ruined house; 355.
E. Delacroix, Death df Charles the Bold (p. 147); 385. Fr. Girard, Portrait;
403. Gros, Marshal Duroc. — 467. Monvoism. Gilbert, the poet, in hospital;
450. Marchal.^ Hiring-fair in Alsace: 455. Meixmoron., Landscape; 454. C'oji-
s^awce J/ayer, Portrait; 311. Be Beaumont.^ The captain's part; 523. Copy of
Vernet, Battle of Hanau (1813); 249. Van der Meulen, Army of Louis XIV.
before Tournai; 499. Rouillard , Marshal Oudinot; 492. Prudhon^ Head
of Christ.

Room V. Early French School. To the right of the side-door: 315.
Ch. Goypel, Holy Family; 517. G. Fan^oo, Silenus ; above, 428. Largilli^re'i^),
Portrait; 421. Lafosse(i), Deluge. — 414. Jeaurat de Beriry, Still-life; 444.
Le7iain, Interior; 4(i3. F. Mignard, Lady as St. Catharine; 426. Largillidre,
Portrait; 356. JDesportes, Game and fruit; 440. Lemoine, Moderation otScipio;
466. Monnoyer, Flowers and still-life; 459. Vouet, Venus and Cupids; 475,
476. Octavien, Scenes galantes; 383. Claude Lorraini^i)., Landscape. — 317.
Boucher, Aurora and Cephalus; 461. P. Mignard, Madonna; 427. Largillierey
Portrait; 528. Vouet, Cupid's revenge; above, Four small portraits attributed
to Clouet; 513. De Troy., Diana resting; 518, 519. /. B. Van Loo, Louis X\'. ;
323. Callotil), Bearing of the Cross; 496. i^esi'ow/, Bnffrand, Ihe architect (?) ;
425. LargilW're, Elizabeth Charlotte of the Palatinate, Duchess of Orle'ans.

Room VI. To the right: 378. E. Friant (of Nancy), Iilyl; 470. A. Morot
(of Nancy), Crucifixion; 503. >SeWier (of Nancy), Mary Magdalen; %1Q. Friant,
The sculptor; 451. E. van Marcke, Fountain. — 522. H. Vernet. Marshal
Drouot; 493. Rafaelli , Edmond de Goncourt; 498. Rigolot, Alter harvest;
531. Ziegler, St. George and the dragon; 373. Eug. Feyen, Sea-piece; 313.
Benouville, Landscape; 413. Jeannioi, Lac d'Annecy; 466. H. L. Livy, Jevrish
captives. — 358. Devilly, Death of Serg. Blandan (Algeria; 1842); above,
354. Dauhigny , Landscape; 359. Diaz de la Pcna, The glade; 500. Royer.,
Nymph; 469. Morot, Incident at the battle of Aquse Sextiiv (Aix in Provence;
102 B.C.); 408. Henner, Nun; 504. Sellier, Leander; 316. Copy of Bonnat,
Thiers; 322. Feyen-Perrin , Charon's bark; 424. J. Larch er , Daphnis and
Chloe. — 233. Zuber, Autumn evening; 411. Isabey, Dieppe; 482. Petitjean,
Village-street in Lorraine ; 376. Frangais, Ravine of the Puits-Noir.

Room VII, adjoining Room I, contains chiefly works by the carica-
turist Grandville (comp. p. 147).

Ground-Floor. — Sculptures, including casts from the antique and
modern French works in marble and bronze.

The Cathedral (PL C, 4), behind the Hotel de Ville, heyond the
Pre'feeture, was "built in 1703-40 by J. H. Mansard, after the model
of St. Andrea della Valle at Rome. The facade consists of a row of
Corinthian columns , surmounted by a row of the Composite order,
and is flanked by towers terminating in domes, supporting lofty
lanterns. In the interior are a cupola 'painted by Jacq^uart, some

150 Route 20. NANCY. Porte Boy ale,

fine iron-work, and various paintings and sculptures of no great
merit. The treasury is rich.

The Rue St. Georges, in front of the cathedral, ends at the Porte
St. Georges, of 1606. The Rue Bailly leads to the left hefore this
gate to the Place d' Alliance., embellished with a fountain commemor-
ating the alliance concluded in 1756 between Louis XV. and the
Empress Maria Theresa. The Rue d' Alliance leads hence to the left
to the Place Stanislas.

In the vicinity of the Place d' Alliance are the Ecole Forestiere (PI. D, 4),
with an important Forestry Museum, and the interesting Botanic Garden.
The latter, entered from the Rue Ste. Catherine, is open all day, and
contains the bust of Crevaux (1847-82), the explorer.

The Porte Royale [PI. C, 3), to the N. of the Place Stanislas,
is the finest of the seven triumphal arches which decorate Nancy.
It was erected in 1751 by Stanislaus in honour of Louis XV. , his
son-in-law, of whom it bears a medallion, and consists of a triple
gateway in the Corinthian style, embellished with statues of Ceres,
Minerva, Mercury, and Mars, and bas-reliefs of Apollo. — To the
left is a bronze Statue of Callot (see p. 147), with busts of Isaac
Sylvestre and Ferd. de St. Urbain (p. 147), by Eug. Laurent (1877).
To the right is a Statue of Here (p. 147), by Jacquot.

Outside the arch lies the Place de la Carriere, named from
tlie tournaments formerly held here. At the farther end is the Palais
du Gouvernement (PI. C, 2), formerly the residence of the governors
of the province, afterwards the pre'fecture, and now the headquarters
of the xxth Corps d'Armee.

By the gateway on the right we enter the Pepiniere (PI. D, 2, 3),
an attractive and umbrageous avenue, with another entrance in the
N.E. corner of thePlace Stanislas, to the left of the fountain. A band
plays here on Tues., Thurs., and Sun., at 8.30 p.m. in summer and
2.30 p.m. in winter. In 1892 a somewhat singular bronze statue by
Rodin was erected here to Claude G elite (Claude Lorrain; 1610-82),
the celebrated painter, on a curious stone pedestal. A little farther
on is a monument to Grandville (p. 147), by E. Bussiere (1893).

A little to the W. of the Place de la Carriere rises the hand-
some modern Gothic church of St. Epvre (PL C, 31, designed
by Morey, with a W. tower 285 ft. high, and a spire above the
crossing. The interior, which is of very harmonious proportions, is
elaborately decorated with fine stained glass and with mural paintings
by Art. Sublet. The high-altar is embellished with a large polychrome
altar-piece and statues, and the choir-stalls are artistically carved.

In front of the church is a small modern Equestrian Statue of
Bene II., Duke of Lorraine (1473-1508), who defeated Charles the
Bold at Nancy (p. 147), by M. SchitT.

In the Grande Kue, to the left of the Palais du Gouvernement,
is the Palais Ducal (PL C, 2). The handsome porch, between the
oriel windows, dates from the early 16th cent, and is embellished

Franciscan Church. NANCY. 20. Route. 151

with a modern equestrian statue of Antoine de Lorraine (d. 1544),
"by Yiard. It illustrates the latest form of domestic Gothic in France.
Within is the Musee Lorrain, open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.
1-4, and to strangers at other times also (ring hriskly).

Two rooms on the ground floor are dedicated to the antiquities and to
the sculptures and other objects dating from the Middle Ages and the
Renaissance. — A small room, on the first floor, to the right, with a
Renaissance chimney-piece, contains the couch of Antoine de Lorraine and
the tapestry discovered in the tent of Charles the Bold after the battle
of Nancy. The large adjoining hall contains portraits and other paintings
{Feyen- Perrin., Finding of the body of Charles the Bold), ancient weapons,
pottery, medals, etc. Near the fourth window on the side next the court
are a Portrait and a Temptation, by Callot (Nos. 541 and 579), and an
astronomical clock. In the centre, Model of one of the fountains in the
Place Stanislas; locksmith's work; a series of engravings representing the
funeral of Charles III. of Lorraine (160S). Then a collection of medals in
glass-cases; MSS.; miniatures; mediaeval religious vessels; gems, cameos,
enamels, seals, etc.

The Franciscan Church {Eglise des Cordeliers; PI. C, 2), ad-
joining the ducal palace, was built by Rene II. in memory of his
victory over Charles the Bold in 1477, and still belongs to the
Emperor of Austria, the descendant of the dukes of Lorraine. It con-
tains a few interesting monuments (bell to the left of the portal). On
the leftside of the church are monuments of Antoine de Vaudemont
(d. 1447) and of Marie d' Harcourt (d. 1476), his wife; Philippa of
Gueldres, second wife of Rene II. (d. 1547), with a fine statue by
Ligier Richier, representing the deceased in the costume of a nun ;
Jacques Callot; Charles F., Duke of Lorraine; and Duke Leopold I.
The third monument on the right side of the church is the curious
mausoleum of i?enei/.(d. 1508). The magnificent polychrome frame-
work is antique, but the statues of the duke and the Madonna were
renewed in 1825. Adjacent is the tomb of Charles of Lorraine^ Cardinal
de Vaudemont (d. 1587), with a statue byDrouin, a native of Nancy.
To the left of the choir is the Chapelle Ronde, or ducal mortuary
chapel, of the 17th cent., with seven black marble sarcophagi.

The Grande Rue, which traverses the 'old town', ends at the
Porte de la Craffe (PL C, 2), an ancient gate of the citadel, of the
14-16th cent., with two round towers. Farther on is the similar Porte
de la Citadelle (end of 16th cent.).

The Rue de la Craffe leads to the left to the Cours Leopold (PL
B, 2, 3), a handsome tree-shaded square, 360 yds. long and 130 yds.
wide, at the N. end of which is the Porte Desilles^ Ionic on the
inside, Doric on the outside, built in 1785 in honour of the birth of
the Dauphin , son of Louis XVI., and the alliance with the United
States of America. The present name commemorates the devotion
of a military officer, killed in 1790 by the mutinous soldiery (comp.
p. 147). — To the N. is the handsome modern Gothic church of St.
Vincent et St. Fiacre (PL B, 1). — In the centre of the Cours
Leopold stands a bronze *Statue of Marshal Drouot (p. 147), by
David d'Angers. — The Place Carnot (PL B, 3) is embellished with

1 52 Route 20. NANCY.

a Monument to President Carnot. To the right is the University, which
possesses the four faculties of law, medicine, science, and literature.
The architect of the modern buildings was Morey, the designer of
St. Epvre. The Natural History Museum of this institution is open to
the public in summer (April-Sept.) on Sun. and Thurs., 1 to 4.

A little to the E. of the Academy is the small Place Lafayette
(PI. C, 3), with an equestrian statue of Joan of Arc, by Fremiet.

The long Rue St. Dizier (PL C, 4, 5; tramway) traverses the
entire S.E. half of the town. About halfway down , somewhat to
the right, is the church of St. Sebastian (17 th. cent.] PI. B, 4), with the
monument of Girardet, the painter (1709-78). Farther on, the Rue
Charles III leads to the left from the Rue St. Dizier to the modern
church of St. Nicholas (PI. C, 5), which contains several paintings
by early artists of Nancy. At the end of the Rue St. Dizier is the
double Porte St. Nicolas, built in the 17th cent. , but altered and
added to in modern times.

The Rue de Strasbourg, traversing the suburb of St. Pierre be-
yond this gate, passes the Hospital, the Seminary, and the modern
church of St. Peter (PI. C. 7), in a style less elaborate but bolder
and more striking than that of St. Epvre.

Farther on is the Eglise de Bonsecours, situated about IV4M.
to the S. of the Rue Stanislas, a church of the 18th cent., frequented
by pilgrims, and containing the handsome mausolea of King Sta-
nislaus and his wife.

The W. suburb of St. Jean, not far from the railway-station, is built
on the site of the marsh where the body of Charles the Bold was found
after the Battle of Naney (see p. 147). The modest Croix de Bouvgogne
marks the exact spot.

The church of St. Leon (PI. A, 4), a hand^^ome modern Gothic edifice,
a little to the W., heyond the station, is dedicated to Pope Leo IX., once
Bishop of Toul, who was born at Dabo in Lorraine.

Among other pleasant points near Xancy are Bellefontaine (carr. there
and back in 3 hrs.) and Maron (drive there and back, S'/a hrs.).

FuoM Nancy TO Chateau-Salins (Vic; Saargemiind), 24 M., railwav in
11/2-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. cJO, 2 fr. iO, 1 fr. 95 c). We follow the line to Paris as
far as (3 M.) C/iampigneuUes (p. 146), where we turn to the right and cross the
Meurtbe. — I71/2 M. Moiicel (BufVet) is the frontier-station, with the French
custom-house. 20 M. C/iambrey, with the German custom-house. From
(21 M.) Bnrthicourt, on the Seille., a branch-line runs to (2V2 M.) Vic-sui--
Seille, a small town with the ruins of an old castle and some disused
salt-works. 24 M. Chateau- Saliiis also has some abandoned salt-works,
from which it derives its name. — Continuation of the railway to Dieuze
(p. 325) and Saargemiind, see Baedekcr\'; Rhine.

From Nancy to Meiz., see R. 16 and p. 146;"^ to Dijon, see R. 41; to
Epinal, see R. 40 e; to Strassburg, see R. 44.

II. BETWEEN THE SEINE, THE LOIRE, AND THE
ATLANTIC.

21. From Paris to Cherbourg 155

From Evreux to Louviers; to Verneui]^ to Dreux; to
Glos-Montfort and Honfleur, 156. — From Conches to
Laigle. From Serquigny to Rouen. From Bernay to Ste.
Gauburge, 157. — From Lisieux to La Trinite-de-Re-
ville. Abbey of Val Richer. From Le Mesnil-Mauger
to Ste. Gauburge. From Mezidon to Trouville, 158. —
Asnelles; Arromanches ; Port-en-Bessin. From Lison to
Coutances via St. L6. From Neuilly to Isigny. From
Carentan to Carteret (Jersey), 161. — From Valognes to
Barfleur, 162. — Environs of Cherbourg, 166.

22. Caen 166

From Caen to Dives-Cabourg; to Vire, 172.

23. Watering-Places in Calvados 172

a. Trouville -Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval-
Houlgate, and Cabourg 172

From Pont-rEveque to Honileur, 172. — Villerville.
Chateau d'Hebertot, 175. — From Dives-Cabourg to
Benouville, 176.

b. Luc-sur-Mer(Lion), Langrune, St-Aubin-sur-Mer,

and CourseuUes 176

I. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer direct 176

II. From Caen (o Luc-sur-Mer via Ouistreham . . 177
III. From Luc-sur-Mer to Langrune, St-Aubin-sur-
Mer, and CourseuUes 178

24. From Cherbourg to Brest 178

25. From Paris to Granville 179

FromDreux toMaintenon. FromVerneuil to La Loupe.
From Laigle to Connerre', 184. — From Ste. Gauburge
to Mortagne. La Trappe, 185. — From Briouze to Cou-
terne. From Montsecret to Sourdeval, 186. — From
Vire to Mortain, 187. — From Granville to Avrancbes ;
Mont St. Michel; to the Channel Islands, 188.

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alen^-on. Falaise .... 189

From La Hutte-Coulombiers to Mamers; to Sille-le-
Guillaume, 192.

27. From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne . . 192

From Berjou-Cahan to Falaise, 192. — From Mayenne
to Pre-en-Pail; to La Selle-en-Luitre (Fougeres), 194.

28. From Paris to Pvennes (^Brest) 194

T. From Paris to Chartres 194

From Chartres to Saumur, 198.

IL From Chartres to Le Mans 199

From Conde to Domfront, 199. — From Nogent-le-
Rotrou to Orleans, 199. — From Connerre to Mamers
and to St. Calais, 199. — From Le Mans to La Chartre ;
to St. Denis-d'Orques, 203.— From Le Blans to Tours, 204.

III. From Le Mans to Rennes 20i

From Sille-le-Guillaume to La Hutte-Coulombiers ; to
Sable'. From Evron to Jublains; to Ste. Suzanne, 204.

154

NORTH-WESTERN FRANCE.

— From Laval to Gennes-Longuefuye; to Cliateau-
briant, 203. — From Vitre to Pontorson (Mont St.
Michel), 207. — From Vitre to Martigne-Fercliaud,
20S. — From Rennes to Redon, 212.

29. From Rennes (Paris) to Brest 212

From La Broliiniere to Ploermel,2l3. — From Lamballe
to Val Andre, Erquy, Montcontour, 213. — From St.
Brieuc to Binic, Portrieux, and St. Quay, to Auray,
214. — From Guingamp to Carhaix and Rosporden ;
Paimpol, 215; to Treguier, 216. — From Plouaret to
Lannion; Perros-Gnirec, 216. — From PJounerin to
Plestin; Locquirec, 216. — From Morlaix to Roscoflf;
to Carhaix ; to St-Jean-du-Doigt, 217. — Bodilis. Lam-
bader, 208. — La jMartyre. Le Folgoet. Plougastel,
218. — Excursions from Brest, 221. — From Brest to
Morgat; to Landevennec; to Ploudalmeieau; to Lan-
nilis, 221.

30. From Rennes to St. Malo. Excursions from St. Malo.

Mont St. Michel. Dinan 222

a. From Rennes to St. Malo 222

Marais de Dol, 222.

b. Environs of St. Malo 225

St. Servan. Parame, 225. — Dinard. St. Enogat. St.
Lunaire St. Briac, 226.

c. Excursions from St. Malo 226

To Cancale, 226. — To Mont St. Michel, 227. — To
Dinan, 2^9. — From Dinan to Dinard, 232.

31. From Paris to Nantes 232

a. Via Le Mans and Angers 232

From La Su/e to Saumur via La Fleche. 252. — From
Sable to Solesmes, 2o2; to La Fleche, 233. — Champto-
ceaux, 234.

b. Via Sable' and Segre' (St. Nazaire, Lorient, Quimper) 234

From Segre to St. Nazaire, 234.

(". Via Orleans and Tours 235

From Saumur to Fontevrault, 237. — From Les Ro-
siers to Gennes, 237.

32. Angers 238

From Angers to Ponts-de-Ce 5 to La Fleche ; to Segr^, 244.

33. Nantes 245

From Nantes toChateaubriant; toPaimboeuf; toPornic;
to St. Nazaire, Le Croisic, and Guerande, 252, 253.

34. From Nantes to Brest 253

I. From Nantes to Vannes and Auray 253

From Questembert I0 Ploermel and to La Brohiniere.
Josselin, 254. — The Morbihan. From Vannes to Sar-
zeau, 255. — From Auray to Quiberon, Plouharnel,
Carnac, and Locmariaquer, 256.
II. From Auray to Lorient and Quimper 258

Port Louis. He de Groix, 259. — From QuimperK'
to Pont Avon; 8t. Fiacre; LeFaouet. From Rosporden
to Concarneau, 260. — From Quimper to Pont-rAbbo
and Penmarcli; to Douarnenez and Audierne. etc., 261.
III. From Quimper to Brest 262

EVREUX. 21. Route. 155

35. From Paris to Tours 262

a. Via Orleans and Blois 262

I. From Paris to Orleans 262

From St. Michel to Montlhery, 263.

II. From Orle'ans to Tours 265

Chateau de Chaumont, 265.

b. Via Vendome 267

36. Orleans 270

From Orleans to Montargis; to Gien, 274.

37. Blois 275

From Blois to Chambord,277. — From Blois to Beaure-
gard and Cheverny; to Pont-de-Braye; to Villefranche-
sur-Cher via Romorantin; to Lamotte-Beuvron via
Braeieux (Chambord), 278.

38. Tours 279

Plessis-les-Tours, 283. — Excursions from Tours : Che-
nonceaux, 283; Chinon, 2S4; Loches, 285. — From Tours
to Vierzon (Bourges), 287. — From Tours to Chateau-
roux, 288.

21. From Paris to Cherbourg.

23i M. Chemin de Fer de l'Ooest, Rive Droite (Gare St. Lazare; PI.
C, 18), in 81/3-11 hrs. (fares 41 fr. 55, 28 fr. 5, 18 fr. 30 c). See also Map, p. 100.

From Paris to (36 M.) Mantes (Rail. Restaurant), see R. 4. —
44 M. BrevaL — 50 M. BuelL is also a station on the line from
Rouen to Orle'ans via Elbeuf, Dreux, and Chartres (p. 59).

Beyond Bueil we cross the Eure. 57 M. Boisset (Eure). Beyond
two tunnels we have a good view of Evreux to the right.

67 M. Evreux.— Railway Stations. Gare de V Quest (Buffet), tlie
chief station, to tlie S. of the town; Gare de Louviers, for Elbeuf, Rouen,
etc., about ^4 M. to the E.

Hotels. Cheval Blanc, Rue de la Harpe 44 ; Grand Cerf, Rue de
la Harpe 14, R., L., & A. 31/2-6, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. incl. cider, omn.
40-fOc. ; RocHER de Cancale, Grande Rue 35, pens. Vfofr. incl. wine.
— Cafes in the Grande Rue.

Evreux, on the Iton, is the chief town of the Departement de
VEure and the seat of a bishop. Pop. 16,932.

Evreux is a place of considerable antiquity, though the Mediolanum
Aulercolum of the Romans is represented by the village of Vieil-Evreux,
41/2 M. to the S.E., where various Roman remains have been found. This
Roman settlement was destroyed by the Franks under Clovis, and the town
which succeeded was overthrown by the Norsemen at the end of the
9th century. Henry I. of England burnt Evreux, with the consent of the
bishop, on condition of rebuilding the churches; and at the close of the
12th cent, it was once more given to the flames, on this occasion by Philip
Augustus. The town gives name to the English family of Devereux.

The Cathedral,not far from the station, is a building of great inter-
est, though it confuses all styles of architecture in vogue from the 1 1th
to the 18th cent., and is, unfortunately, not quite detached from other
buildings. The main portal, which has two towers of unequal height,
dates from the close of the Renaissance period; but the most inter-

156 Route 21. EVREUX. From Paris

esting feature of the exterior is the Flamhoyant N. portal, "built in
1511-31. The crossing is surmounted by a handsome Gothic tower,
with an open-work spire. The effectproduced by the interior (restored
1875-96) is very imposing. The lower portion of the nave, which is
remarkably narrow (21 ft.), is Romanesque, the remainder Gothic,
of the 13-16th centuries. The chapels of the choir and ambulatory
are closed with beautiful Renaissance screens of carved wood, and
the stalls and delicate iron-work in the choir and treasury (to the S.)
date from the 15th cent.; but the chief glory of the interior is the
^'Stained Glass in the large Lady Chapel and the transepts, dating
from the 15th and 16th cent, respectively. The rose-window of the
S. transept is a fine example of flowing tracery, with the peculiarity
of having all the mullions of the same thickness.

The cathedral is adjoined by some remains of Gothic Cloisters,
with a small Musee Epigraphique , and by the Bishop's Palace. To
the N. is the Tour de I'Horloge, a belfry of the 15th century.

The Musee (adm. daily, 10-4, 50 c. ; Sun & Thurs. free), at the
corner of the Rue de I'Horloge and the Place de riiotel-de-Ville,
contains statues and other antiquities chiefly from Vieil-Evreux
(p. 155), some modern French pictures, and mediaeval relics. — In
front of the handsome Hotel de Ville (1890-95) is a fountain bearing
allegorical figures by Decorchemont.

In the extreme W. of the town is the former abbey-church of
St. Taurin, a Romanesque edifice of the 11th cent., with a few Gothic
additions of later date. It contains a crypt, some antique stained
glass, and some good modern wood-carving. On the way thither we
pass the Palais de Justice , comprising an ancient Renaissance
church, now used as a law-court.

A branch-railway runs from Evreux (Gare de Louviers, p. 155) to
(16 M.) Louviers (p. 59), following the valley of the Jton. — Branch-lines
rnn from the Gare de lOuest to (33V2 M.) Verneuil (p. 184) via Prey^ Dam-
ville, Conde-Goitville, and BreteuU; and to (261/2^1.) Z>re«x (p. 182) via i^'ey,
St. Aiidri-de-V Eure^ and St. Georges-sur-Eure.

Fkom EvKKux TO HoNFLKUK, oT^^M., in 4-5 V2hrs. — 151/2 M. LeNeubourg.,
a small town with the ruins of a castle and a bronze statue oiDupont de VEure
(1767-1855), the politician, by Decorchemont. 25^/2 M. St-Martin-Brionne.
Bronne, see p. 157. — 26 51. Le Bec-Hellouin^ with the scanty remains of
the Abbey of Bee, of which Lanfranc and Anselm, the first two archbishops
of Canterbury after the Norman Conquest, were inmates before their ele-
vation. — 291/2 M. Glos-Montfovt (Bufl'el) : to Serquigny and Rouen, see
p. 157. — The line now descends the valley of the Risle. — 39Vj M. Pont-
Audemer (Lion d'Or), a picturesquely situated industrial village of 60CO
inhab., on the Risle. The church of St. Ouen, the chief building, dates from
the 11th, 15th, and 16th cent, and contains some good stained glass and some
curious wood-carvings. A steamboat plies dailv on the Risle from Pont-Aude-
mer to (12 M.) Le Havre, in 21/2 hrs. (fare 21/2 fr.). Diligence (l«/2 fr.) twice
daily to (10 M.) Qmlkboeuf. — 6O1/2 M. Qiietteville (p. 172). — 571/2 M. Ho7i-
fleur, see p. 172.

Beyond Evreux the train traverses a grazing district. Tunnel.
Near (721/2 M.) La Bonneville is the ruined Ahbaye de la Noe, found-
ed in 1144 by Matilda, daughter of Henry I. of England and wife
of the Emperor Henry II. — Tunnel.

to Cherbourg. BERN AY. 21. Route. 157

78 M. Conches (Buffet; Croix Blanche), near wMch is a ruined
castle (12tli cent.). The church of Ste, Foy (15th cent.) has
27 fine stained-glass *Windo\vs (16th cent,), of which 7 in the choir
were designed by Aldegrever. The vaulting of the choir and aisles,
two reliefs in the chapels, and the elegant spire (rebuilt) should
also be noticed.

A branch-line runs hence to (231/2 M.) Laigle fp. 184), via (17 M.) liugles
(Hot. de TEtoile), which contains two interesting old churches.

At (88 M.) Beaumont-le-Roger (Hot. de Paris) are a ruined
abbey (12-13th cent.) and an interesting church (14-15th cent.)
— The church of (92 M.) Serquigny (BxiiiQt) is adorned with a fine
portal of the 11th century.

Fkom Serquigny to Roden, 451/2 M., in IV3-2V2 hrs.- (fares 8 fr. 20
5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 60 c.). The line follows the attractive valley of the Risle. —
7 M. Brioniie (Hot. de France), an industrial town (3520 inhab.) of some
historical importance, with a castle of the Vlih. century. — 12 M. Olos-
Montfort (Buffet); to Evreux and Honfleur, see p. 156. Our line hence
runs to the E. via (21 M.) Bovrgtheroulde, (Si. M.) Elbevf (St. Aubin; p. 59),
where we cross the Seine, (35V2 M.) TourvUle, and (37 M.) Oissel (p. 42). —
451/2 M. Rouen (Rive Droite), see p. 48.

981/2 M. Bernay (Lion d'Or; Cheval Blanc ; Normandie), a com-
mercial and industrial town with 8000 inhab., is situated on the left
bank of the Charentonne. The church of Ste. Croix (14-15th cent.)
has an elegant tower and contains a fine high-altar of red marble,
dating from 1683-84, and some curious sculptures, including an In-
fant Jesus, on the tabernacle of the altar, ascribed to P. Paget. Re-
mains of the Abbey, round which the town grew up in the 11th cent.,
and of the Abbey Church are still extant, the former occupied by the
Sous -Prefecture, the Hotel de Ville, and other public offices, the latter
serving as a market. The horse-fair of Bernay, held in the 6th week
of Lent, is the most important in France. On a hill outside of the
town, to the left of the railway, stands the handsome church of
Notre-Dame-de-la-Couture, built in the 14-16th centuries.

A branch-railway runs from Bernay to (33 M.) Ste. Gauhuvge, follow-
ing at first the valley of the Charentonne. At (10 M.) La Trinitd-de-R^ville it
is joined by the line from Lisieux (see below), and at (29 M,) Echauffour
merges in the railway from Le Mesuil-Mauger to Ste. Gauburge (p. 158).

1181/2 M. Lisieux (Buffet; Hotel de France; *rfe Normandie;
d'Espagne), the ancient capital of the Lexovii and formerly the
seat of a bishop, is a prosperous industrial and commercial town,
with 16,350 inhab., situated on the Touques. The leading industry
is the manufacture of woollen cloth and flannel. Lisieux still pos-
sesses many quaint old houses of the 14-16th centuries.

The imposing Cathedral of St. Pierre lies about 1/2 M. to the left
of the station, closely adjoined by the former episcopal palace and
other buildings. The greater part of the church dates from the
12-13th cent., but the S. tower, the only one with a spire, was re-
built in the 16-17th centuries. The transept is surmounted by a
lantern-tower. The fa(^ade is simple and severe, but the S. side is
embellished with a striking portal, which Mr. Ruskin calls 'one of

158 Route 21. LISIEUX. From Paris

the most quaint and interesting doors in Normandy', the work of
which is 'altogether rude, hut full of spirit'. The nave, the most
ancient portion, was huilt at a single epoch and by a single archi-
tect, and is distinguished in consequence hy the harmony of its style
and proportions. The various chapels were added at various dates.
The Lady Chapel was erected in the 15th cent., hy Pierre Cauchon,
Bishop of Beauvais, one of Joan of Arc's judges, in expiation of his
condemnation of that heroine. It contains an elaborate modern altar;
and there is another modern altar, in silver repousse-work, in the
third side-chapel to the right. The pulpit, the choir-stalls (in the
style of the 14th cent.), and six large paintings hy Lemonnier, pupil
of Vien, in the chapels of the nave, representing scenes from the
lives of SS. Peter and Paul, are also noteworthy. Henry II. of Eng-
land married Eleanor of Guienne in this cathedral in 1154.

The Episcopal Palace, huilt in the 17-18th cent., is now used
as a court-house, and contains the small Musee. Behind it is a
pretty Public Garden. The Musee (open on Thurs. and Sun., 1-4;
on other days on application) contains chiefly modern French pictures.

The church of St. Jacques (15th cent.), a little to the S., contains
some good stained glass and some ancient paintings and wood-carv-
ing, hut the only interesting feature of the exterior Is the balustrade
which runs all round it.

From Lisieux to Trouville and Honfleur. see pp. 172, 173. — A branch-line
runs to (20 M.) La Trinitd-dc-lUville (p. 157), via (5 M ) ^i. Pierre-de-Muilloc,
near fh-^; ancient Chateau de MaiUoc (visitors admitted), and (12 M.) Orbec
(Hot. de France • de lEquerre). a small town with an interesting: church.

At St. Ouen-le-.Pi7i, 1 M. to the W. of Lisieux, is the ancient Abbey
of Vol Etcher, of which Thomas a Becket was for a time abbot. It was
transformed into a chateau by Guizot, who died here in 1874.

Beyond Lisieux we pass through a tunnel, i^'4 M. long, and
reach (130 M.) Le Mesnil-Mauger.

A branch-railway runs hence to (39 BI.) Ste. Gauburge (p. 157), vii
(15 M.) Vi'iioutiers (Soleil d'Or), a small town 3 M. to the ls\ of Cam embert,
a village noted for its cheese, and (30'/.! W.) Echauffvur (see p. 157).

We now cross the Dives. — 134 M. Mezidon (Buffet; Hot. de
I'Europe, Ste. Barbe). Railway to Argentan, etc., see p. 189.

Fkom Mezidon to Trouville, via Cabourg, Beuzeval-Honlgate, and
Villers-sur-Mer, Sl'/i M., railway in 2V2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 80, 2 fr.
45 c). The train descends the Valk'e d'Auge^ which is watered by the Dives
and noted for its pastures. — 8 M. Hottot, with an interesting church of
the 15th cent. ; 91/2 M Benvron. — At (127-2 M.) Dozuh'-Pntot a line diverges
to Caen (p. 172). — iV/2 M. Cabourg. Thence to (31V2 M.) TroiiviVe, see
pp. 170-173.

140 M. Moult- Argences. A column at the neighbouring village
of Vimont commemorates the battle of Val-es-Duves (1047), in
which Duke William (William the Conqueror), aided by Henry of
France, defeated his rebellious barons. — 144 M. Frenouville-Cagny.
Then to the right appears the picturesque town of —

149 M. Caen (p. 166).

A little beyond Caen the railway crosses the Orne. Fine retro-

to Cherbourg. BAYEUX. 21. Route. 159

spect of the town. To the right diverges the branch to the coast
railway (p. 177), to the left the railway to Laval. Farther on, to the
right, is La Maladrerie (p. 177), with a prison. — 153 M. Carpi-
quet. To the right and left rise the picturesque towers of Brette-
ville and Norrey. 157 M. Brett€<nlle-Norreij; iQ3M, Audrieu, to the
left, with a fine church of the 13-14th centuries.

167 M. Bayeux [Hotel du Luxembourg , Rue des Bouchers 25,
B. IY4, D. 3 fr. ; Grand Hotel^ Rue St. Jean 46; both at a distance
from the station), a town of 7900 inhab. and the seat of a bishop,
is situated to the right of the railway.

The site of the town was occupied by the capital of the Baioccissi,
called by the Romans Aiignslodnrum. Ausonius, the poet, mentions it
under the name of Baiocasds in the 4th century. Subsequently the town
became the capital of the Bessin. In the wars with England it was taken
by Edward III. in 1346, by Henry V. in 1417, and by Dunois in 1450,
after the battle of Formigny.

The *Cathedral or Notre-Dame, about Y-2 M. from the station,
from which it is visible, is a striking Gothic edifice of the 12-15th
cent., built on the site of an earlier church founded in the 11th cent,
by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, half-brother of William the Conqueror. The
two Romanesque towers of the W. fayade are surmounted by Gothic
spires; the Flamboyant E. tower has a modern dome. The chevet,
with its graceful turrets, is one of the most beautiful examples of
the early-Gothic style in France. The lateral portals are also note-
worthy features of the exterior, which is still elaborately decorated,
though many of the sculptures have been mutilated.

The Intekior produces an equally dignified impression. The Roman-
esque arcades of the nave belonged to a church of the 12th cent. ; the span-
drels of the lower arches are covered with rich diapering. The exceed-
ingly graceful pointed arches of the apse, constructed in the 13th cent.,
are among the chief beauties of the church; while, on the other hand,
the windows of tins part of the building fiil of effect on account of their
small size. The windows of the transepts and above the organ-loft are,
however, large and fine. There are 22 chapels in the cathedral, and a large
crypt, under the choir, dating from the 8- 11th centuries. The first chapel
to the left contains a magnificent altar-piece in stone; and the stalls and
four sedilia in the choir should be examined.

The Rue de la Maitrise, beginning opposite the principal portal,
leads to the handsome Place du Chateau or Place du St. Sauveur,
in which (to the right) is the Public Library, containing a small
Musee (shown on application). In the latter is preserved the famous
*Bayeux Tapestry, which is conveniently exposed to view, under
glass, in the second room.

This famous Tapestry consists of a strip of linen cloth, now somewhat
brown with age, 230 ft. long and 18 inches wide, embroidered in coloured
woollen thread with scenes illustrating the events which led to the con-
quest of England by William in 1066. Most of the scenes are explained by
Latin inscriptions, the letters of which, about an inch long, are also stitch-
ed in wool. The main subjects occupy the centre of the tapestry, and above
and below run ornamental borders, filled with scenes from jEsop's Fables,
farming and sporting scenes, fabulous animals of the most grotesque de-
scription, and (towards the end) the bodies of the slain at Hastings. Eight
colours appear in the worsted used, but there is little attempt to distribute

160 Route 21. BAYEUX. From Paris

these according to verisimilitude. The flesh-parts of the figures are merely
outlined*, the English are uniformly depicted with moustaches and the
Normans without; and there is an evident effort made to retain a general
resemblance in the recurring figures of William and Harold.

The origin of this interesting work has given rise to much contro-
versy. A favourite opinion ascribes it to Matilda, wife of the Conqueror,
and tradition has it that it was her death alone that prevented the final
scene of William's coronation appearing on the tapestry. Though possibly
not by Matilda, the work is undoubtedly a contemporary work of Wil-
liam's reign ; so that its importance as a historical document far outweighs
its interest as a specimen of the domestic art of the 11th century. It is
mentioned in an inventory of goods belonging to Bayeux cathedral in
1476; but general attention was not drawn to it until 1724, when it was locally
known as the 'Toilette du Due Guillaume'. In 1803 Napoleon I. exhibited it
at the Louvre in Paris in order to incite the French to another conquest of
England; but it was afterwards restored to Bayeux. — The first of the
58 scenes is in the middle of the left side of the room: —

1, Edward the Confessor despatches Harold to announce to William
that he will one day be king of England. 2. Harold sets out. 3. Church.
4. Harold at sea. 5. Harold driven by a storm to Ponthieu. 6. Harold
prepares to land. T.Guy, Count of Ponthieu, arrests Harold. 8. Guy and
Harold ride to Beaurin. 9. Interview between Guy and Harold. 10. Mes-
sengers from William arrive to request the release of Harold. 11. They
threaten Guy. 12. William receives a messenger. 13. William receives
Harold at Eu. 14. William takes Harold to Rouen. 15. A priest and
Elgiva, daughter of William. 16. William and his army, accompanied by
Harold, reach Mont St. Michel, on a campaign against Conan, Duke of
Brittany. 17. They cross the river Couesnon; Harold rescues several Nor-
mans from the quicksands. 18. Conan put to flight at Dol. 19. William
attacks Dinan. 20. Conan surrenders the keys of the town on the point of
a lance. 21. William knights Harold. 22. They return to Bayeux (Bagias).
23. Where Harold takes the oath. 24. Harold returns to England. 25. And
reports to Edward the result of his embassy. 26. Funeral of Edward at
St. Peter's Church (Westminster Abbey). This scene seems out of order, as
Edward lies on his death-bed in No. 27. and dies in No. 28. 29. The crown is
offered to Harold. 30. Harold is crowned by Stigand. 31. The people pay
homage. 32. Portentous appearance of the comet of 1066. 33. Harold arms
himself. 34. English ship on the Norman coast. 35. William orders a
fleet to be built. 36. His ships are launched. 37. The fleet is armed and
provisioned. 38. William sets sail and arrives at Pevensey. 39. The horses
are landed. 40. The Normans march towards Hastings. 41. Wadar, whose
name appears in Domesday as a vassal of Odo, William's brother, acts as
commissariat-officer. 42. The viands are prepared. 43. Banquet of William.
44. William, Odo of Bayeux, and Robert of Mortain take council. 45. The
camp is fortified. 46. William is informed of Harold's approach. 47. A
house is burned. 48. Tlie Normans advance. 49. William questions Vital,
the scout. 50. William's advance is announced to Harold. 51. William
harangues his troops and the battle begins. 52. Death of Leofwine and
Gyrth, Harold's brothers. 53. The thick of the fight. 54. Odo encourages
the Normans. 55. William raises his visor to show his men that he is not
dead as reported. 56. Harold's army is cut to pieces. 57. Death of Harold.
58. Flight of the English. — Reproductions of the tapestry (5 fr.) are best
obtained at Tostaiii's. in the town.

The entrance-hall, tas well as that in which the tapestry is shown,
contains a few interesting pictures, including two Madonnas and a Cleo-
patra of the Italian School, the sage and the three youths, by Ooessin, etc.

The Hotel de Yille adjoins tlie Cathedral. In the garden is a
marble statue, by Harivel Durocher, of A. de Caumont (1802-73),
the archspologist, who was born at liayeiix. — Bayeux still retains
many quaint old liouses which will delight the antiquarian.

to Cherbourg. ST. LO. 21. Route. 16l

Omnibuses ply in summer from Bayeux to the small sea-bathing places
of Asnelles (8V2 M.; Hotel du Repos ; Belle-Plage), Arromanches (V/2 M.5
Hot. du Chemin de Fer), and Port-en- Bessin (6 M.-, Hot. dc TEurope). —
To Courseulles, see p. 178.

184 M. lison (Buffet; Hotel de la Gare).

From Lison to Coutances (Granville, Avranches, etc.), 297-2 M., rail-
way in 11/2-23/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 35 c). The train enters the
valley of the Vire^ and ascends it to St. L6. Views to the right.

12 M. St. Ld (JI6t. de fUniverSy dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; de Norniandie; Cen-
tral), a very ancient . .ace, with 11,12J inhab., and the chief town of the
department of the Manche., is picturesquely situated on a slope on the-
right bank of the Vire. It derives its name from St. Laudus, one of its
early bishops. The town was fortified by Charlemagne, and was taken
several times by the Normans and English. The stained glass in the
cathedral was presented by Louis XI., in memory of a successful repulse
of the Bretons by the town in 1467. The chief object of interest is the
Church of Notre-Bame, formerly the cathedral, built in the 14th and restored
in the 17th century. It has two handsome towers; and outside the chuir
is a fine Gothic stone pulpit. The Ildtel de Ville (a modern structure), the
Palais de Justice, and the Prefecture are situated in a square near the
cathedral. In the vestibule of the first, to the right, is the 'Torigni
Marble', an antique pedestal with an important inscription. — In the Rue
Havin is a fine monument of /. L. Havin (1799-1868), the politician, by
Leduc. The Music (adm. on Sun., 12-3, on Thurs., 1-4) contains paintings
of no great value (one by Jordaens), various works of art (triptych with
i\v& large enamels), antiquities, medals, etc. A hall on the first fioor con-
tains a Natural History Collection; and in a room below are nine old
pieces of tapestry and some sculptures.

From St. Lo to Coutances the railway traverses an undulating district.
Views to the left. — 29^/2 31. Coutances, see p. 179.

To the left flows the EUe, an affluent of the Viie. — 187V2 M.
NeuiUy.

Branch-railway to (5 M.) Isigny (B6t. du Commerce; de France), with
2800 inhab. and a small harbour which exports large quantities of butter
to England. — A steam-tramway (1 fr. 30 c, 1 fr., 65 c.) plies from Isigny to
(6 M.) Gvandcamp (Croix Blanche •, de la Plage), which has a fine beach.

Crossing the Vire^ we now enter the Cotentin, a flat and marshy
region, famous for its cattle. The name is said to he a corruption
of Ager Constantinus. Many of the followers of William the Con-
queror came from this part of Normandy ; and some of the most
illustrious names among the English aristocracy are derived from
those of humhle villages in the Cotentin. The hedges here give quite
an English aspect to the country.

195 M. CsLrentsin ( Hot. d" Angleterre ; du Commerce), totherlght,
a town with 3740 inhah. and a small harbour on the canalized Taute,
exporting vegetables and dairy-produce to England. The church
dates from the 15th century.

From Carentan to Carteret (Jersey), 26V2 M., railway in V/s-Pfs hrs.
(fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 25, 2 ir. 10 c). — 14 M. La Haye-du-Puits, junction for
the Cherbourg and Brest line (p. 179). 21 M. Portbail (Des Voyageurs ;
du Nord), a small seaport, whence a service of steamers formerly plied
to Oorey (see below). — 26V2 M. Carteret (Edt. de la Mer, pens. 772-9 fr. 5
*d'Angletei're; du Commerce), a thriving bathing-place and seaport, with
a daily service of steamers in summer to (IV2 hr.) Gorey on the island of
Jersey (fares 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 35 c., return-tickets 10 fr., 6 fr. 25 c.).

From the station of (208 M.) Montebourg a branch-line runs to

Baedekek's Northern France. 3rd Edit. IJ.

\ 62 Route 21. CHERBOURG. Hotels.

the town of the same name, 21/2 M. to the S.E., and to (21/2 M.
farther on) the railway from Valognes to Barfleur (see helow).

213 M. Valognes (Hotel du Louvre), a small decayed town with
GOOO Inhab. and a church, part of which dates from the 15th century.

From Valognes toBakflkur, 22V^ M., railway in l3/4-2hrs. (fares 3 fr.
70, 2 fr. 80 , 2 fr. 5 c). This line has a special station near the main-line
station. — 51/2 M. St-Martind Audouville-VaudreviUe. Branch to Monte-
hourg, see above. — 81/2 M. Leslre-Quiniville. At Quiniville (Hotel), a
sea-bathing place with a good beach, is a curious hollow stone mon-
ument, 27 ft. high, known as La Grande Cheminee. but of doubtful origin
and use. King James II. of England watched the battle of La Hogue
(see below) from the neighbourhood of Quineville. — 15 M. St-Vaast-la-
Hougue (Hotel de France; de Iformandie), a sea-bathing town with 2590 in-
habitants. The harbour is defended by forts on the He Tatihou, to the X.,
and on the He de la Hogue or La Hougne, to the S. La Hogue is famous
for the defeat of the French admiral De Tourville by the united English
and Dutch lleets, under Russell and Rooke, which took place ofi' the coast
in May, 1602, Twelve French ships which were beached at La Hogue by
the admiral to save them from the enemy, were attacked and burned by
boating-parties the next day.

22V'2 M. Barfleur (Hotel du Phare) is a small seaport and sea-bathing
resort, which was of considerable importance in the middle ages as a port
of communication between Normandy and England. In 1120 Prince Wil-
liam, only son of Henry I., with 140 young noblemen of the English court,
set sa'.' here in the ill-fated 'White ^hip\ which struck on one of the rocks
outside the harbour and went down with all on board, except a poor butcher
of Rouen. The Pointe de Barfleur or Raz de Gatteville, l^j-i M. to the X.,
the E. extremity of the peninsula of the Cotentin, is marked by a light-
house, nearly 245 ft. high. — A public conveyance (2 fr. 10 c.) plies twice
daily (6 a.m.; 2.30p.m.) in 3 hrs. from Barfleur to (17 M.) Cherbourg.

219 M. Sottevast, to the left, has a chateau of the 17th century.
Branch to Coutances, etc., see p. 179. — 223 M. Couville. Beyond
a hilly tract lies (226 M.) Martinvast, with a chateau and stud-farm
belonging to Baron Schickler. Near Cherbourg we pass through a
short tunnel. To the right is the Montagne du Roule (p. 166).

231 M. Cherbourg. — Hotels. De l^Amiraute kt ue l'Elrope (Pl.a^
E, 4), Quai Alexandre III 16; de l'Aigle et d'Angletekki; (PI. b; E, 4),
Place Bricqueville, R., L., & A. 3 6, B. I. de'j. 2V2, D. 3 fr. incl. cider, pens.
C'/'i-lO, omn. V2 fr. ; de France et du Commerce (PI. c; E, 4), Rue du
Bassin, pens. 8 fr. -, Etoile (PI. e; D, 4), Rue CTambetta 7; du Luivki:
(PI. f; D,3), Rue de la Paix 30. — Hotel des Baixs de Mek (PI. d; E, 3),
beyond the Avant-Port du Commerce, open only in the bathing-season, II.
4-7, dcj. 4, D. 5, pen.<5. 12-15 fr.

Cafes. J)u Grand-Balcon , de Paris, Quai de Caligny, de VAmirautx',
de V Europe., Quai Alexandre III; du Thidtre, Place du Chateau.

Cabs. Per drive H/a, per hr. 2 fr. — Carriages for excursions at
Faisants., Rue du Bas?in 51.

Tramways. From the Place du C/idtucu (PI. E, 4) to Tourlaville (PI. G. 3 ;
p. 1G()); and to Equeurdreville and Querquerille (comp. PI. A, 3, 4 ; p. lOG).
Fares 10 c. within the town, 10 c. per section outside the town, 15 c. for
two sections, 25 and 35 c. all the way. — Omnibus I0 Barfleur (see above),
twice daily ; to Landemer and to O)i>onvillc., see p. 166.

Boats for expeditions within Cherbourg Roads: to the Digue (see
p. 164; 2 hrs. there and back) about 10 fr. for 5 pers., 5-6 fr. for 2 pers. ;
a bargain should be made.

Steamboats to Alderney and Guernsey on Wed. in 5-6 hrs. (fares 12 fr.
50, 8 fr. 75 c). To Soulhampton (London), see p. x'ii.

Sea-Baths, to the E., beyond the commercial harbour, 50 c, with
costume and towel 75 c. Good beach. — Casino, adm. 50 c. per day; balls

Grave et inrirriiiie p«r

"Wag^mrr & Debes Leipzig.

Roadstead. OHERBOFRG. 21. Route. 163

weekly during tlie bathing-season (adm. 1 fr.). Military band on Thvirs.
at 4.30, Sun. at 8.30 p.m.

British Consul, Hon. H. P. Vereker^ LL.D. — American Consular Agent,
Henry J. C. Hainneville, Esq.

French Protestant Church, Place Divettc; service at 11 a.m. English
Church Services are held here in Aug. and Sept. at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m.

Cherbourg, a town with 40,783 inliab. and a fortress of the first
class, is tlie third naval harbour of France, Cherbourg owes its
importance to its situation at the N. extremity of the peninsula of
the Cotentin (p. 161), in a bay embraced between Cap Levi on the
E., and Cap de la Hague on the W., and directly facing the coast
of England, which is about 70 M. distant.

Cherbourg is supposed by some authorities to occupy the site of the
Roman station of Coriallum or Coriallo ; others regard the name as a cor-
ruption of Caesar/s5M;"(7M5 (Cirsar's Castle) and it has also been suggested that
the name is the same as the English Scarboroiigh. The site of the town seems
to have been early occupied by a baronial castle; and a Count of Cher-
bourg followed William the Conqueror to England iu 1066. Its proximity
to England exposed it to frequent attack; and it was taken by the Eng-
lish in 1295, 1346, and 1418. In 1355 it became the capital of Charles the
Bad of Navarre, and it continued to be a favourite landing-place for English
expeditions against France until 1450, when it was taken by Charles Vll.
Finally, in 1758, the English fleet under Lord Howe landed a force here
under General Bligh, who destroyed the fortitications and burnt the ship-
ping and all the naval stores, though he left the town and its inhabitants
unmolested. In April, 1814, the Due de Berri landed here, and in Aug.,
1830, Charles X., the ex-king, embarked at Cherbourg for England.

The town, most of which is modern, well-built, and clean, is
comparatively uninteresting. On quitting the station (Pl.E, 5), the
visitor finds himself at the S. end of the Commercial Harh our .^ which
is situated at the mouth of the Divette and the Trotebec, This har-
bour, of quite secondary importance to the naval port (see p. 164),
comprises two basins and an entrance-channel, 650 yds. long, flanked
by granite breakwaters. Large quantities of butter, eggs, and poultry
are exported hence to England.

The RoADSTEAB of Cherbourg, which lies in front of the two
ports, has a total superficies of 4 sq. M., but as certain parts of it
are too shallow for large ships at low water, the total available
anchorage is about one-fifth of that, or about 500 acres. Though
sheltered on three sides, this roadstead is naturally exposed to the
full force of gales from the N., and Vauban, the great military en-
gineer, seemed almost to be flying in the face of nature when he
proposed to establish a naval port here. The efforts to protect the
anchorage by means of a 'digue' or breakwater, placed about 21/2 M.
from the town, were twice baffled by winds and waves, but a third
attempt, begun in 1832, has succeeded in rearing a gigantic barrier
which seems likely to withstand the fury of the tempest. The present
^Digue is a substantial breakwater, 4130 yds. long, from 160 to 202
yds. broad at the base, and 65 yds. broad at low water-mark. It is
formed of huge blocks of granite, carefully fitted together and present-
ing a sloping face to the sea on each side. On this base rests a mass
of masonry, 30 ft. high and 30 ft. thick, rendered practically monolithic

11*

16^ Route 2J. CHERBOURG. Harhour.

by the use of hydraulic cement. The works cost upwards of 2,790,000?..
Visitors are permitted to land on the Digue (boats, see p. 162),
which is fortified with four forts and twelve batteries. The excur-
sion is one of the pleasantest at Cherbourg, and visitors enjoy an
opportunity of viewing at close quarters some of the men-of-war
which are usually lying in the roads. The view from the breakwater
to the AV. of the central fort is finer than that from the E. The
channels at the ends of the Digue are commanded by forts on the
mainland, as well as by detached forts on islets. The defences of
the town are completed by a chain of detached forts on the sur-
rounding heights.

The Naval Harbouk, or Dockyard (PI. B, C, 1, 2, 3), is strongly
defended on the landward side by a special line of redoubts and a
ditch, which practically render it quite separate from the rest of
the town to the S.W. It is entered by way of the Rue de TAbbaye,
beyond a barrack. Foreigners are admitted only with an order from
the minister of marine. The visit takes about 1^/2 hour.

Louis XIV., with the aid of Vauban, first conceived the idea of
establishing a naval harbour at Cherbourg, in opposition to Ports-
mouth, about 80 M. distant. The works were, however, soon aban-
doned; and nothing was done until Napoleon I. took up the project
with vigour. Its completion was reserved for Napoleon III., who
opened the port in presence of Queen Victoria in 1858, exactly
100 years after the last English attack on the town. The harbour
and its buildings cover an area of 54 acres, and comprise three
principal basins hewn in the solid rock, several smaller basins, well
equipped workshops, magazines, and storehouses of every sort, and
innumerable sheds, barracks, and other military and naval establish-
ments. Ilie three chief basins {the A nant-Port^ Arriere-Bassin, and
Bassin a Flat) have a minimum depth of 30 ft. at low water and
can easily accommodate 40 ships of the line at one time.

Between the Bassin a Flot and the sea is situated the Direc-
tion de VArtillerie (PI. B, 1), with an extensive Arsenal, perhaps
the most interesting point in the dockyard for the ordinary visitor.
It contains about 50,000 weapons (20,000 muskets), artistically ar-
ranged in geometrical patterns and in the shape of porticos, palm
trees, baskets, etc. Visitors are generally conducted over one or more
of the Men-of-War lying in the harbour; but as these are usually
dismantled, they are not so interesting as when lying outside in the
roads. The Museum (in which the mode of constructing the break-
water is illustrated) and a Collection of Models are also shown, the
latter interesting to naval visitors only.

The town lies to the left or W. of the station (PI. E, 5). Not
far from the latter and near the commercial harbour lies the
Theatre (PI. 10 ; E,4), a handsome edifice in the classical style, with
a richly decorated interior. In a small square adjoining the Avant-
Port is a bron/e Bust of Bricqueville, a colonel of the first empire,

Hotel de Ville. CHERBOURG. 21. Route. 165

by David d'Angers. Tlie Place Napoleon (PI. D, 3), to the left,
farther on, is embellished with a bronze Equestrian Statue of Na-
poleon /., by A. Le Veel. The inscription, 'J'avais resolu de renou-
veler a Cherbourg les merveilles de TEgypte', refers to the con-
struction of the Digue, which the emperor compared to the Pyramids.

The CImrch of La Trinite (PL D, 3, 4), on the S. side of the
square, dates from the 15th century. The nave is decorated with
polychrome paintings, and above the arches are painted and gilded
reliefs representing scenes from the Passion and a Dance of Death.

The Hotel de Ville (PI. 6; D, 3), on theAN'. side of the Place
d'Armes, contains a Musee of some importance (open on Sun., 12-4,
free; otlier days for a fee). Many of the small ancient paintings in
this collection are unfortunately hung too high.

Princii'al Room. From right to left, *7G. Rogier van der Wetjden, Descent
from tlie Cross (triptych); 84. Van Vliet. Interior of a temple; G6. Quinteii
Malsi/s, Peasants; 9. Florentine .School, Descent from the Ci-oss ; 42. Bril,
Landscape; 83. Tenicis, Apes carousing; 50. Van Eyck, Madonna; 2, Albano,
The Circumcision; 47. Dietrich., P.)rtrait; 75. Rochman., Landscape; 139.
Pouxsin., Pyramus and Thisbe; 52. Ft/t, Geni-e-scene; 35. Muvillo., Bearing
of the Cross; 198. Leleux, The Girandfather ; 17. Gueixino, The wounded
Tancred aided by Herminia; 61 (above), Jovdaens., Adoration of the Magi;
88. Wycli\ Interior; 8. Florentine School of the lUh cent.. Hermitage; 135.
Oudry, Eagle and hare; 12. Fra Angelico, Entombment; 37. Ribera, Phil-
osopher; 60. Ilondecoeter, Ape and parroquet; 45. Cranach, Electors Fred-
crick III. and John of Saxony; 79. Ro/tenhammer, Madonna and Child at-
tended by .-mgels; 157. J Vernet, Landscape; 219>. Sienese School, Madonna;
7. Carava'.igio, Death of Hyacinth; Phil, de Champaigne, Portrait; 124. Largil-
lih'c^ Portrait; 5t. Franck the Younger, The Woman taken in adultery;
1. Albano, Annunciation; 158. Vivien, Girardon, the sculptor; 146, 1jI5
(farther on), //«&. Robert, Ruins; 14. GalUani, Madonna; 148. Lesueur,
Justice; 11. i^o//<rt«o. Adoration of the Magi; 119. Janet (Clottet), Portrait;
101. Coypel, Scene from Don Quixote; 96. Borgonignoti, Cavalry engagement;
125. Laryillicre, Portrait; 40. H. van Balen, Offerings to Bacchus and Ceres;
65. /. Van Loo, Melancholy; 172. Couder, Interior; 123. Lafosse, Presentation
in the Temple; [.^d. Lelciix, Locksmith's workshop; 216. Leonardo da Vinci,
Portrait of the artist; 23. Panini, Coliseum and Arch of Constantine; 94.
Boilly, Houdon in his studio; 4. Baroccio, St. Franc"s of Assisi ; 180.
Flinch, St. Jerome; 143. Rigaud, Portraits; 147. Lesueur, Sermon on the
Mount; 211. Soyer, Sacristy; Schiavone, 27. Joseph interpreting Pharaoh's
dreams, 28. Joseph's messengers finding the cup in Benjamin's sack; 159.
Vottet, Ceres and Neptune; 39. AeUt, Flowers; 80. Ruysch, Flowers; 138.
Poussin,.V\Qik', 16. Giordano, St. Peter; 171. Gonsalvez Nuno, Madonna; Un-
known, Artist, Madonna (on marble) ; 74. Fr. Pourbus, Francis II. de Me-
dicis and his daughter, afterwards wife of Henri IV. — In the centre:
Flemish School, The head of John the Baptist presented to Herod; Leftvre,
Gretchen in church, in marble.

On the First Floor is the Library, which contains a fine old chim-
ney-piece, brought from an ancient abbey; and on the Second Floor are
collections of Natural History and Antiquities.

The Rue de la Paix leads to the W. from this church to the
Monument des Coloniaux (PI. D, 3), erected in 1895 in memory
of soldiers and sailors who have died on colonial service.

On the S. side of the town is the noteworthy modern church of
Notre-Dawe-du-Voeu (Pl.D, 5), in the Romanesque style, with two
towers and spires at the W. end. It replaces an earlier church of

1 66 Route 22 CAEN. Hotels.

the 12th cent., built in fulfilment of a solemn vow taken hy Qneen
Matilda of England during a storm.

In the pretty Public Garden (PL F, 5), to the E. of the station,
a statue to Millet (1815-75), the painter, was unveiled in 1892.

The Montague du Route (VI. F, 5), beyond this garden, commands
a fine view of the town and the roadstead. The summit, reached in
Y4 hr., is occupied by a fort, to which visitors are not admitted.

Environs. Pleasant excursions (carr. 2 fr. per liour) may be made from
Cherbourg to the Chateau de Martinvdi^t (p. 162), the park of which is open
on Sun. from 12-6; to the (21/2 M.) Chateau de Tourlaville (16th cent.), on
the Barfleur road (steam-tramway, p. 162) \ to the village of (31/2 M.) Quer-
queville (steam- tramway, p. 162), 1 M. beyond \Yhich is the Chateau de
Nacqueville^ formerly the residence of Count Alexis de Tocqueville, the
great political writer and historian. About 2 M. farther on is the bathing-
beach of (6 BI.) Lnndemer (N'oisin; Millet), to which an omnibus (50 c.) plies

4 times daily (5 times on Sun.) from the tramway terminus. The little
port of Omonville-la-Rogue (omnibus from Cherbourg 4 times weekly) lies

5 M. from Landemer. Thence we may proceed to the pretty Bay of St.
Martin (2V2 M. farther), beside C<tx)e La Hagtie (16 M.), from which the
Channel Islands are visible.

From Cherbourg to Coutances, Folligny (Granville), Pontorson (Mont
St. Michel), Dol (St. Malo), and Brest, see R. 24.

22. Caen.

Railway Stations. Gare de V Quest (PI. F, 5), the chief station (Bullet),
to the S.E., used bv all trains, including those to the coast (but comp.
p. 176); Gare St. Martin or de la Mer (PI. B, 2), to the N.W. — Gare dn
Tramway a Vapeur (steam-tramway), Boul. St. Pierre (PI. D, 3). — Omni-
buses , see below. No hotel-omnibuses.

Hotels. De la Place-Royai.e (PI. c; C,3), Place de la Republique,
opposite the Hotel de Ville and the Musee, well spoken of, dej. 2^4, D.
372 fr.; Hot. d'Angleterue (PI. a; D, 3), Rue St. Jean 77, R., L., & A. 4-5,
B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. ; u'Espagne (PI. b; D, 3), Rue St. Jean 71; de Lon-
DRES, Rue des Quatre-Vcnts, near the Place de la Republique, unpretend-
ing but well spoken of; Ste. Baube, Rue Ecuyere 13 (.PI. B, 3); Sr. Pierre
(PI. d; (',3), Rue St. Pierre 42, fre(|uented by commercial travellers; i>e
NoRMANDiE, Rue St. Pierre 25; de France (PI* e; E, 5), near the station
(at these three, dej. 2'/-, D. 3 fr. incl. cider).

Cafes. Du Grand-Balcon, Rue St. Pierre 50; de la Bourse, Rue St. Jean 28,
with garden; de Madrid, at the H()tel d'Espagne (see above), with garden.
— Restaurant. ' Fabre, Place du Marchc'-an-Bois, a la carte.

Cabs. Per drive 1 fr., per hr. 2 fr., each additional '/< l^r. 50 c. ; V2 fr-
more at night (li-7). — Luggage, 25 c. per package. — Omnibus from the
Gare de TOuest to the omnibus-bureau 30, to the traveller's destination
50 c; at night 50 and 70 c.; luggage 20 c. per 65 lbs. (at night 25 c.) to
traveller's destination. — Omnibus- Tramway fnun the Gare de TOuest to
the Rue dc Baveux (PI. A, 2) and to the Gare de St. Martin, 15 c.

Post Office at the Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 3), Rue de lHotel-de-Villc.

Baths. Bains-Lavoirs (PI. C, 4), Rue Daniel Huet.

Steamboat daily to Le Havre (quay, see PI. F, 4); see p. 61. To New
haven, see p. xiii.

British Vice-Consul, F. Lethbridge, Esq.

English Church (St. MichaeV.^), Rue Richard Lenoir Qeft bank of the
Canal). — Mission Service at 7 p.m. at the Briti.'^h Seamen's Institute, Quai
Vendoeuvre (PI. E, 3). [About 2000 British sailors visit the port annually.)

Caen, the chief town of the department of Calvados, \vit.h 45,880
inhab., and next to Rouen the most interesting town in Normandy,

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St. Pierre. CAEN. 22. Route. 167

is situated on the Orne^ about 9 M. from the coast, with which it is
connected by a canal, a railway (p. 172), and a steam-tramway (p. 172).

Caen, mentioned as Cadomum in the early part of the llth cent., first
rose to importance in the time of William the Conqueror, under whom
were built the castle and the two abbeys whose beautiful churches are
still the chief ornaments of the town. In 1346 Caen, at that time 'a city
greater than any i-n England save London', was taken and pillaged by Ed-
ward III. of England; and Henry V. again captured it in 1417. France
did not succeed in finally wresting it from the English until 1450. Caen
sufi'ered much in the religious wars of France and was well-nigh ruined
by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. Two centuries, however,
of comparative peace have largely restored its prosperity, and it now carries
on extensive manufactures of colza and rape oil, lace, and other articles,
while its port is the centre of the timber trade in the N. of France. In 1793
Caen was the focus of the Girondist movement against the Convention;
and it was from this town that Charlotte Corday, born in the neighbour-
hood, set out to assassinate Marat. Auher (1782-1871), the composer, and
Malherhe (1555-1628), the poet, were natives of Caen, and Beau Brummel
(consul at Caen) and Bourienne (secretary of Kapoleon I.) died here in the
Hospice du Bon-Sauveur. The famous Beau is buried in the Protestant
■ Cemetery, Rue du Magasin a Poudre (PI. C, 1).

The celebrated Quarries of Caen stone, which have for centuries af-
forded excellent building-material for the churches and other important
edifices of France and England, lie to the W. and S. of the town.

On leaving the station (PI. F, 5), we turn to the right, take the
first street to the right again, which leads under the railway and
over the Orne, and then follow the quay to the left to the Place
Alexandre III, which is embellished with the handsome Monument
of the Sons of Calvados, commemorating the war of 1870-71. Hence
the Rue St. Jean runs to the right, ending at the Boulevard St.
Pierre. — On the right side of the Rue St. Jean rises the handsome
late-Gothic church of St. Jean (PL D, 4), with an elegant but un-
finished tower. The church is unfortunately much hidden by the
adjoining houses, and its fine portal has been disfigured by an un-
successful restoration.

*St. Pierre (PI. D, 3), in the boulevard of the same name, is a
most interesting example of Gothic architecture, though dating from
various epochs from the 13th to the 16th century. The chapels and
the turret of the *Aps€, both very elaborately decorated, were added
in the Renaissance period. The most striking feature is the *Tower
(255 ft.), to the right of the main portal, a masterpiece of the bold
and graceful style of art which prevailed at the beginning of the 14th
century. The spire is pierced, and its base is surrounded by eight
small turrets. There is a portal in the side of the tower, but the
church has no transepts. The church is now under restoration.

The general impression of the interior is one of great harmony. The
capitals of the massive pillars in the nave are carved with a curious mis-
cellany of sacred, profane, and grotesque subjects. (Note especially the
third capital on the left.) The vaulting and keystones of the E. half of the
nave are noteworthy. The ornamentation of the five -'Chapels of the apse
is especially lavish, including unusually large keystones and fine modern
stained glass by Marette of Evreux. The pulpit, in a florid modern Gothic
style, and the organ-case are handsome.

Opposite the tower of the church is the Exchange, formerly the

168 Route 22. CAEN. La Triniti.

Hotel Valois (16tb. cent.), the most iiotewortliy part of wliich is the
court. The Hotel de Than, opposite, is another old mansion of the
same period.

On an eminence beyond the small square in front of the main
portal of St. Pierre are situated the remains of the Castle (PI. C, D,2),
begun by William the Conqueror and finished by Henry I., and
several times altered. It is now used as barracks, and presents few
points of interest. The castle was held by the English after the rest
of the town was taken (see p. 167), but in 1459 the garrison of 4000
men was compelled to surrender to Dunois. — In the Rue de Geole
are some quaint old houses (Nos. 17, 31, 37).

The street leading to the left from the church, as we return from
the castle, runs to the E, extremity of the town, passing the former
church of St. Grilles (PI. E, 2), which is buUt in the transition style
from Gothic to Renaissance.

A little farther on is *La Trinite (PI. E, F, 2), the church of the
Abbaye-aux-Hames^ founded in 1036 by Matilda, wife of William the
Conqueror, while the latter at the same time founded the church of
the Abbaye-aux-Hommes (p. 169). These acts of beneficence were
intended as an expiation of the sin which the pious founders had com-
mitted in marrying within the forbidden degrees of consanguinity.
La Trinite, with the exception of one chapel, on the right of the
choir, in the Transition style, is Norman-Romanesque; it has under-
gone a thorough restoration in modern times. Two square towers rise
on the W. fac^'ade and another from the transepts; all three, long de-
prived of their spires, were provided with balustrades in the 18th
century. The majestic simplicity of the interior is no less striking
than the dignity of the exterior. Small galleries surmount the aisles,
and there is an interesting crypt beneath the choir. The choir, which
is reserved for the nuns who manage the Hotel-Dieu (see below),
is closed to the public ; but it and the crypt are shown to visitors
to the hospital. It contains the modest tomb of the foundress.

The Hotel-Dieu or Hospital (PI. F, 2), adjoining the church, is
established in the former nunnery, rebuilt in the 18th century. The
nuns of La Trinite' were generally daughters of noble families and
enjoyed considerable privileges. The abbess was known as Madame
de Caen. Visitors, generally admitted on application, are expected
to make a contribution to the poor-box. The extensive park com-
mands attractive views.

As we retrace our steps to St. Pierre, we have a view of the
distant towers of St. Etienne (see p. 169). Beyond St. Pierre we
follow the Rue St. Pierre (PI. C, 3), Nos. 52 and 64 in which (near
the beginning) are quaint houses with wood-carving. Farther on,
to the right, is St. Sauveur (PI. C, 3), consisting of two churches
placed §ide by side and forming an immense nave. The building is
in the Gothic style, and has a handsome belfry of the 14th cent., a
richly decorated apse of the 15-16tli cent., and some old stained gh\^<.

St. Etienne. CAEN. 22. Route. 169

The Rue Froide, skirting the church, leads to the Universite
(PI. 0, 2), an important academy. The Palais de f Universite, partly
dating from last century, hut recently much enlarged, contains
a Natural History Museum (adm. Sun., 12-4} and the ethnograph-
ical collections of Dumont d'Urville (p. 192). In front of it, in the
Kue Pasteur, are bronze statues of Malherbe (p. 167), by the elder
Dantan, and Laplace (1749-1827; a native of Calvados^, the math-
ematician, by Barre. — Near the Universite' are the modern
Gothic Benedictine Church, attached to a convent, and the Prome-
nade St. Julien. — At the W. end of the Rue Pasteur is the Place
St. Sauveur, in which is another church of St. Sauveur (PI. B,2, 3),
dating from the Tith, 14th, and 18th cent., now a corn-market. On
the right side of the square rises the Palais de Justice (18th cent.).
In the centre is a bronze statue, by L. Rochet, of ELie de Beaumont
(1798-1874), the geologist, a native of the department.

The Rue Ecuy(>re, continuing the Rue de St. Pierre to the W.
from the Palais de Justice, leads to —

*St. Etienne or St. Stephen (PI. A, B, 3), the church of the Ab-
baye-aux-Hornmes, founded by William the Conqueror at the same
date as La Trinite' (p. 168). St. Etienne is in the same style as La
Trinite, though larger, but its unity of style was destroyed by alter-
ations in the 12th cent., when the choir was rebuilt in the Pointed
style. It is difficult to obtain a satisfactory view of the church, on
account of the buildings which hem it in. The W. facade, with two
elegant towers of the 12th cent., 295 ft, high, is remarkably plain;
and the interior also, like that of La Trinite', is distinguished by its
dignified simplicity. The aisles here too are provided with galleries ;
the S. aisle is adjoined by a Gothic chapel added in the 14th century.
The transepts are shallow and have no doorways. A lantern-tower
of the 17th cent, replaces the pyramidal spire, 400 ft. high, which
formerly surmounted the crossing. A black marble slab in front of
the high-altar marks the tomb of William the Conqueror (d. 1087);
but the bones of the monarch were rudely scattered by the Hugue-
nots in 1562, and again in 1793, so that the tomb is now empty.
The sacristy, itself an interesting specimen of architecture, contains
an ancient portrait of the Conqueror. Other noteworthy features are
the choir-stalls, the carved clock-case in the N. transept, the pulpit,
and the organ-case, supported by colossal figures.

Professor Freeman writes as follows of tlais liighly interesting church,
which he descrihes as perhaps the noblest and most perfect work of its
time. 'The choir has given way to a later creation; hut the nave of Wil-
liam and Lanfranc is still there, precisely such a nave as we should expect
to arise at the bidding of William the Great. Erected at the moment when
the Romanesque of Normandy had cast aside the earlier leaven of Bernay
and Jumieges, and had not yet begun to develop into the more florid
style of Bayeux and Saint Gabriel, the church of William, vast in scale,
hold and simple in its design, disdaining ornament, hut never sinking into
rudeness, is indeed a church worthy of its founder. The minster of Ma-
tilda (La Trinite ; see p. 1G8), far richer, even in its earliest parts, smaller
in size, more delicate in workmanship, has nothing of that simplicity and

170 Route 22. CAEN. Hotel de ViUe.

grandeur of proportion which marks the work of her husband. The one
is the expression in stone of the imperial will of the conquering Duke 5
the other breathes the true spirit of his loving and faithful Duchess'.
(•Norman Conquesi\ Vol. iii, p. 109).

The Ahbaye-aux-Hommes was rebuilt in the 18th cent., and is
now occupied by the Lycee (PI. A, 3). To reach the facade, which
is turned away from the church, we retrace our steps to the Palais
de Justice, and enter the Place du Pare, to the right, where there is
a bronze Statue of Louis XIV., by the younger Petitot.

The Lycee contains several handsome rooms (visitors admitted). The
Refectory and the Chapel are panelled witli oak and adorned with paintings.
The railing of the Main Staircase was executed by a monk.

A little to the N. of this point is the secularised Church of St.
Nicolas (PL A, 2), an interesting Norman edifice of the ll-12th
centuries. Mr. Fergusson believes it to be the only church in Nor-
mandy which retains the original covering of the apse, consisting of
a lofty pyramidal roof of stone (visitors not admitted).

In the Rue de Caumont, leading E. from the Place du Pare, is
the Old Church of St. Etienne (PI. B, 3), of the 15th century. No. 83,
nearly opposite, formerly a Jesuit college, contains the Antiquarian
Museum (PI. B, 3), open to the public on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4, but
accessible to strangers on o*her days also.

Though the collections are not large, they contain some interesting
objects, including an antique bronze tripod; Merovingian ornaments, found
in a tomb near Caen; a goblet called 'William the Conqueror's', but in
reality an Italian work of the end of the 15th cent.; and embroidered
chasubles, etc., of the 16th century.

The Rue St. Laurent, running to the S. from the end of the Rue
Caumont, leads to Notre Dame or La Glori€tt€(V\.C, 3), a church
built by the Jesuits in the 17th cent., and to the Place de la Pre-
fecture, in which are the Prefecture and the Gendarmerie (PL C, 4),
ambitious modern erections of no special interest.

Opposite the Pre'fecture is an ancient seminary, now occupied
as the Hotel de Ville (PL C, 3). The entrance is on the E. side,
in the Place de la Re'publique (PL C, 3), where a marble Statue of
Auber (p. 167), was erected in 1883, from a design by Delaplanche.
The *Musee, in the left wing of the Hotel de Ville, is open to the
public on Sun. and Thurs., 11-4, but is accessible to strangers on
other days also; apply to the concierge or knock at the door to
the left on the first floor. Explanatory labels on the paintings.

On the staircase is a large painting, by H. J. Forestier, representing
the Burial of William the Conqueror interrupted by the former owner of the
soil, who had been unjustlv dispos.sessed to secure a site for the church (p. 169).

Room I. To the right," 219. Fr. Gerard, Death of Patroclus (unfinished);
266. Odiei\ Incident on the retreat from Moscow; 285. Giraud, Procession
of the Circumcision at Cairo; 284. Lanoue, The Tiber; G. Moteley, Land-
scape; 213. Ant. Lebe!, Sea-piece; 199. J. Vernet, Sea-i>iece; I80. Rigatid,
Portrait of a courtier; F, Tatfegrain, Sea-pii'ce; 242. Krug, Condemnation
of St. Symphorosius and his seven sons; 26. E. Chretien, Still-life; above
the door, 264. Dehoii, William the Conqueror entering L,ondon.

K. II. 131. Iloiidekoeter, Hen and chickens; *lnl. DiirerCi), Madonna
and three saints; 33. Fe/i, >'ativity of the Virgin; 102. Qvellin the Alder,
The Virgin presenting a stole to St. Hubert; 123. Boudeicyns , 122. Bcuts,

Mus-:e. CAEN. 21. Route. 171

Landscapes; 191. ToMcwi^res, Portrait ; •*3. Perwg'mo, Marriage of the Virgin,
from the cathedral of Perugia, one of the chief works of this master;
170. Patel, Landscape-, 85. Rubens, Portrait; 87. Gnercino , Madonna; 83.
Calvaert, St. Sebastian; 153. Denner, Head of an old man; 9H. Seghers and
/. van Oost, Virgin in a garland of flowers; 294. J. Berirand, Cinderella. —
No number, Fertigino, St. Jerome; 183. Mopaert, Moderation of Scipio;
206. B. N. Lesuenr, Solomon hefore the Ark; 134. Ferd. BoU Portrait of
a magistrate; 179. Coi/pel, Mme. de Parahere (the flowers by Fontenay).

R. III. 101. Ph. de Cham,paigne, H^ad of Christ; 1. Vitale da Bolorina,
Virgin and Child, with an an^el; 150. Moucheron , Landscape; 29. Lan-
franrU, Head of St. Peter; 103. BosscMert, Portrait; 110. Van Dyckil),
Communion of St. Bonaventura; 94. Tenters the Elder, Interior; 82. Van
Balen, The four elements; 145. Lairesse, Conversion of St. Augustine;
115. /. B. de Champaigne, Richelieu; 81. Fr. ffals. Portrait; 289. Van March,
Pond and magpies; 273. Luminals, Breton shepherd; 287. Ph. Rousseau^
Market; 328. Le Comte-dv-Nouy, Contemplation, Toilers of the sea, Orient-
als; Ruhens, Open-air ball; 2;'.6. After Gerard, Louis XVIII.; 1S7. H. Rigaud,
Fr. de Neuville, Due de Villeroy; 87. Franck the Younger, Slaves to the
passion of love; 275. Legrip, N. Poussin at Paris. — 263, 262. Debon, Battle
of Hastings, William the Conqueror; 307. Lematte, The widow; 308 Char-
train, The taper; 288. Pasini, Persian horsemen with prisoners; 315.
E. Lefehvre, Fruit; 130. Brakenhurg, Dutch interior; 291. Thirion, St. Se-
verinus giving alms; 171. Jouvenct, Fr. Romain, iirchitect; 86. Guercino,
Dido; 109. Flemalle, Adoration of the Shepherds; 136. Koning, Portrait of
a physician; 147. B^ga^ Landscape; 98, ^9. Ph. de Champaigne, Vow of
Louis XIII., Annunciation; 140. F. Movcheron, Landscape; 166. Lebrun,
Baptism of Christ. — 186. ff. Rigaud, Mme. Desjardins, wife of the sculp-
tor. — In the middle of the room: Gayrard, Daphnis and Chloe, a marble
group; Riviere, Music.

R. IV. 7. Andrea del Sarto, St. Sebastian; 38. Neapolitan School, A
gesture of derision; 5. Leon, da V'inci, Reduced replica of the 'Vierge aux
Rochers' at the Loiivre; 192. Tournihres, Chapelle and Racine; 26. Strozzi,
Mercury and Argus; 190. Tournieres, Portrait of a magistrate; 53. Panini,
Reception of 'cordons bleus'; *84. Rubens, Melchisedec offering bread and
wine to Abraham; 229. Rob. Lefevre, Mile. Caffarelli; 2S. Strozzi, Fauns
and Bacchantes; 48. Lauri, Return of the Prodigal Son (architectural
accessories by Bibiena)\ 129. Cornelis, Venus and Adonis. — 42. Sasso-
ferrato. Virgin and Child; 173. Jouvenet. St. Peter healing the sick; 310.
Cima da Conegliano, Triptych (Virgin, St. James, and the donor); 1^:58. Van
der Heist, Portrait; 100. Phil, de Champaigne, The Samaritan Woman;
12. Tintoretto, Descent from the Cross; 97. Jordaens, Beggar; 56. Tiepolo,
EcceHomo; 160. JV. Poussin, Death of Adonis; 63, 64 (farther on), Ribera,
Heads of St. Peter; Paolo Veronese, 14. Judith, 16. Flight into Egypt,
15. Temptation of St. Antony, 17. Christ giving the keys of heaven to
St. Peter; 62. Ribera, The Crown of Thorns; E. Lesiteur, Christ and the
doctors; 172. Jouvenet, Apollo and Tethys.

R. V. Franck, 90. St. Ursula, 89. Adoration of the Shepherds. Then,
some copies from the old masters, and some modern canvases of no great
interest. In the middle of the room, Schoeneicerk, Child and tortoise, in
marble. — From this room we ascend to the Collection Mancel (see below).

R. VI. 61. Italian School, Holy Family; 66. P. Brueghel the Elder,
Flemish festival; — lOS. D'Artois, Landscape; 117, 118. J. van Bloemen,
Lands -apes; 200. H. Vernet, Portrait; 194. Owdry, Boar-hunt. — 35. Guercino,
Coriolanus; 141, 142. S. van Ruysdael, Landscapes; 91. Snyders, Interior;
120, 119. /. van Bloemen, Landscapes; 104. Snyders, Bear-hunt; 50. Cignani,
Jael and Sisera. — Statues: Moreau-Vauthier, Bather; Etex, Nizzia.

The Mancel Collection, on the 2nd floor, contains a library, paintings,
engravings, and other works of art.

The Montaran Bequest, on the groundfloor, consists of 60 paintings,
including Holy Families by L. Carracci (No. 7) and by i^rawcA; and ^Velvef
Brueghel (13), portrnts by Van Dyck (10), Sprang (36), and Van der Heist
(38), a landscape by Boucher (b), marine pieces and landscapes by Gudin
(15-35), a Child by Guido (37), and a Monk by Znrlaran (58).

112 Route 23. HONFLEUR. Watering-Places

The Library^ also in the Hotel de Ville, in part of the former
chapel of the seminary, contains ahout 90,000 vols. andGOOMSS.,
besides portraits of illustrious natives of Normandy and a copy of
the celebrated Bayeux tapestry (p. 160).

In the Place Gambetta (PI. C, 4), to the S. of the Hotel de Ville,
is the modern Gtndarmerie^ opposite the facade of which is the Musee
Langlois (Sun., 11-5), containing paintings by Col. Langlois, well
known as a designer of panoramas. — Farther to the S. are the fine
promenades known as the Cours Sadi-Carnot (PI. C, D, 4, 5) and the
Grand-Cours, which skirt the Prairie in which is the Hippodrome
or race-course (races on the first Sun., Mon., and Tues. in August).

About 1/2 M. to the E., at Rue Basse 201, is the Manoir des Gens-
d'Armes (PI. G, 3), a picturesque ruined edifice, of the 16th cent.,
so called from two statues of armed men on the main tower. Both
towers and the crenelated wall which connects them are ornamented
with curious medallions in good preservation, and the main tower
still retains a fine grated window.

The interesting, but somewhat remote Jardin des Plantes (PI. B, 1 ;
open all day) contains numerous hothouses, important herbaria, and
a shady avenue.

Feom Caen to Bives-Cabovrg (Trouvitle). 1. Railway (20 M., in 1 hr.)
from the Gare de 1 Quest via {ib^li M.) DozuU-Putot, where we join the
line from Mezidon (p. 158). — 2. Tramway (15V2 M., in l^/i tr.) from the
Boul. St. Pierre (fares 3, 21/4, IV2 fr.) via BenouvUle (p. 176).

From Caen to Vire, 46 BI., railway in about 2V-2hrs. — From (33 M.)
Guilberville a branch-line diverges to (16 M.) St. L6 (p. 161). — 46 M. Vire,
see p. 186.

From Caen to Cherbourg., see p. 158.

23. Watering-Places in Calvados. '
a. Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval-Houlgate,
and Cabourg.

From Paris to Tromille, 136V.2 M., Railway in 4-8i/i' hrs. (fares 24 fr. 75,
16 fr. 75, 10 fr. 95 c.). —From Trouville to Villers-sur-Mer, 1 M., Railway
in V4-V2 hr. (fares 1 fr. 25, 85, 55 c.); to Beuzeval-Houlgate., 121/2 M., in
45-50 min. (fares 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c, 1 fr.) ; to Cabourg, W/2 M., in I-I1/4 hr.
(fares 2 fr. 45, i fr. 65, 1 fr. 10 c). — Another route, see p. 156.

From Paris to (US' /o M.) Lisieux, see R. 21. We leave the line
to Caen on the left, pass through a tunnel 1/2 M. long, and descend
the valley of the Touques. 6 M. Le Breuii-Blanyy. — IOV2 M.
Pont-rEveque (Bras d'Or)^ a small town on the Touques.

From PoNX-L'EvfiQUE to Honflecr, I5V2 M., railway in 40-50 min.
(faros 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 75 c). — The train passes through a tunnel
11/4 M. long. From (I'^h ^I-) Quetteville (i>. 175) a visit may he paid to
Chateau d'Hehertot (see p. 175). The train skirts the Seine.

151/2 M. Honfleur (Cheval Blanc, Quai Heaulieu, R., L., & A. 3-7, doj.
21/2, D. 3fr.; du BnvjMn, Rue de la Repiibli-ino. — British Vice-Consul,
/. E. n. CJiarlesi^on; I'.S. Consular Agent, Fhnry M. H<rdu), a seaport
town with 9.00inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank and at tho
mouth of the Soine, has declined since the foundatit n of Le Havre, and
also owing to the .'-iltiug up of its harbour. Considerable efl'orts, however,

in Calvados. TROUVILLE. 23. Route. 173

have recently been made to improve and extend the latter. Honfleur is
connected with Le Havre hy a regular service of steamboats ^ and it ex-
ports large quantities of eggs, poultry, vegetables, and fruit to England.

The station is situated near the harbour. The Hotel de Vitle, containing
a small Mus4e^ and the Lieuienance, vpith a portal of the 15th cent., stand
near the outer harbour. The curious timber Church of St. Catherine., dating
from the end of the 15th cent., consists of two parallel naves with aisles.
It contains a good organ-loft, a painting of Christ in Gethsemane by J. Jor-
daens ., and a Bearing of the Cross by Erasmus Quellin (in the nave).
The Cote de Grace, to the W. of the harbour, is so named from a pil-
grimage-chapel much resorted to by sailors. It commands a fine vicAV of
the mouth of the Seine; and the plateau forms an agreeable and shaded
promenade. The hotel and restaurant on the top may be reached in about
1/4 hr. from the harboui-. We pass the left side of St. Catherine's, follow
the Rue de Grace to the right, and then take a path to the left, beside a
customs-office. Below, on the road to Trouville, is a Sea-bathing Establish-
ment, but the beach is muddy and little frequented.

An omnibus leaves the Cheval Blanc for (10 M.) Trouville regularly
in the season at 8 a.m., 12, 2.30., and 5 p.m. {V/-z-P/i hr.; fares, inside
1 fr. 60, outside 2 fr. 10 c). The road runs partly among trees and the
view is confined until we reach (5 M.) Criqueboeuf, with its pretty ivy-
covered church. 6 M. Villerville, see p. 175. — 10 M. Trouville, see below.

16 M. Touques, a small river-port about 21/9 M. from the mouth
of the Touques , with two ancient churches (ll-12th cent."), is
11/4 M. from tlie rained Cliateau de Boms^viUe (adm. 50 c). Then,
to the left, appear the railway to Cabourg (p. 175) and the race-
course of Deauville (p. 175).

18 M. Trouville. — Hotels. Des Rochks Noires, a large establish-
ment, at the N.W. end of the town and beach ^ de Paris, also of the first
class, better situated, near the casino ; Bellevue et de la Mer; du Helder,
dej. 3, D. 47-2 fr.; *de la Plage, R., L., & A. 8-7, B. i^l-z, dej. 2, D. 3,
pens. 7-12, omn. 1/2-I fr. ; the last three are all in the Place de THotel-de-
Ville, near the beach; Beausejour, Quai Valle'e; Tivoli, with garden, at
the end of the Rue de la Mer, commercial; d'Angleterre , Rue de la
Plage, well spoken of, Meurice, Rue Carnot, these two behind the casino;
DU Chalet, Rue d'Orleans; Catteau, du Louvre, Rue de la Mer, pens.
8-12 fr.; Bras d'Or, des Bains, Rue des Bains; de France, near the sta-
tion but at some distance from the beach, mediocre; de Metz, Quai Vallee;
Frascati, at the station. — Furnished Houses and Lodgings are easily
obtained. — The touts at the station should be disregarded.

Restaurants. At the Hotel du Helder and the other hotels. — Buffet
at the station. — Cafes. De la Plage; Eden-Casino (cafe-concert), both on
the beach, adm. 1-5 fr.

Sea-Baths at the Casino and the Hotel dea Roches Noires; bathing-
box 60 C.-2 fr. ; costume 50, 'peignoir' 25, towel 10, 'guide baigneur' 50 c.

Casino. Admission for one day 2 fr. (between July 15th and Sept. 16th
3fr.); per fortnight, for 1 pers. 40, 2 pers. 70; per month, 70 & 110 fr.;
per half-season (July 1st to Aug. 10th, or Aug. 10th to the close) 80 & 130;
three months 100 & 170 fr.

Cabs. In Trouville: with one horse, between 5a.m. and midnight,
per drive IV2, witli luggage 2 fr. ; with two horses 2 and 2V2 fr. ; for Deau-
ville 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 fr.; per hr. 4 fr., each addit. hr. 3 Ir., with two
horses 1 fr. extra; per day 25 and 30 fr.

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue Pellerin 7, the third cross-street to the
left in the Rue de la Mer, as we come from the harbour.

Steamboat to Le Havre, daily during the season, in 3/4 hr., see p. 61. —
Ferry to Deauville, in summer only, from the Place de la Cahotte (5 c;
10 c. after 7 p.m.).

Omnibus from the station to the town, 1/2 fr., at night 70c., or 70
and 90 c. with 80 kilos of luggage. To Honfleur, at 8 a.m., noon, 2.30,

174 Route 23. DEAUVILLE. Watering-Places

and 5.15 p.m. daily during the season, starting from the Rue des Bains 41
(fares 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 60 c; see p. 173). To Villerville, see p. 175 ^ to Villers-
sur-Mer (p. 175), 1/2 fr., return-ticket 1 fr.

Brakes. During the season excursion-brakes ply regularly to various
points of interest in the vicinity (fares 3-8 fr. according to the distance) 5
office at the Fish Market (Poissonnerie).

British Vice-Consul, Alan F. O^Ndll^ Esq.

TrouvUle , pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Touques, is
now the most frequented watering-place on the coast of Normandy.
The season lasts from July to October and is at its height in August,
when living here is extremely expensive. Forty years ago Trouville
was a humhle fishing- village with a small harbour ; now it has 6250
inhab., and the beach and adjacent slopes are covered with hand-
some villas and country-houses.

The railway-station is situated on the left bank of the river, be-
tween DeauviUe and Trouville. We cross a bridge to reach the
latter. The Harbour is much used by fishing-boats and also carries
on some trade in timber. The church on the hill to the right of the
harbour, Notre-Dame-des- VictoireSy is a modern erection. The Fish
Market, near the end of the quay, presents an interesting spectacle
when the fishing-boats come in. Thence the important Rue des
Bains leads to Notre-Damt-de-Bons-Secours, another small modern
church, with a fine facade and a Renaissance tower. Beyond the
fish-market rises the Hotel de Ville, in the style of Louis XIII., to
the left of which is the Place de la Cahotte (ferry, see p. 173).

The *Beach (Plage) of Trouville, stretching from the harbour to
the Hotel des Roches Noires, a distance of about 2/3 M., is one of the
finest in France and during most of the day in the season thronged
with holiday-makers and bathers in fashionable and attractive cos-
tumes'. It is bordered for nearly its entire length by a broad paved
or boarded promenade, and behind is a row of pleasant villas. It has
been epigrammatically described as the 'Summer Boulevard of Paris'.

The Casino, known also as the Salon, a large edifice of brick and
stone, rising on a terrace overlooking the beach, offers all the attrac-
tions common to fashionable institutions of the sort. Theatrical per-
formances take place twice a week, and a grand ball is usually given
on Sundays. — Another small Casino was opened in 1892 on the
Promenade Pier, at the other end of the beach; adm. to pier 20 c,
gratis to passengers by the steamer to Le Havre, which starts here
at low-tide.

Deauville. — Hotels. Gkand Hotel de Deauville, de la Tekrasse,
on the beach, near the harbour-entrance; de l'Eueope, Frascati, both near
the station. — Bouses and Furnished Apartments may be obtained. — Sea
Bathing as at Trouville. — Ferrp to Trouville, see p. 173.

DeauviUe, which shares the railway-station with Trouville, may
be reached from the right bank of the harbour either by ferry (5-10 c.")
or by the bridge near the station. Founded in modern times as a
sea-bathing resort, it has broad and straight streets, but the original
plan was never carried out and the town presents the appearance of

in Calvados. VILLERS-SUR-MER. 23. Route. 175

a half-filled canvas. The heach is distinctly inferior to the beach at
Trouville, and at low water the tide recedes too far. The Terrasse
skirts a number of fine houses, situated somewhat far apart. —
From the beach a tramway runs to Tourgeville-les-Sablons (10 c.)
and Benerville (20 c), about halfway to ViUers-sur-Mer (see below).

During one week in August Deauville is the scene of a highly
fashionable race-meeting.

Excursions from Trouville and Deauville (see p. 174 and comp. the
Mai>, p. 58). To the ruins of Bonneville, Lassa;/, and St. ArnouH, see p. 173
and below. — To the (10 M.) Chateau d'Hibertot., a castle of the 17th cent.,
situated at St. Andri-d''Hihertot. The road intersects the picturesque Forest
of Touques and passes (5 M.) St. Gatien and (9^2 M.) St. Benoit-d lUbertot.
The station of Quetteville (p. 172) lies 2V'2 M. to the N.W. of the chateau.

About 372 M. to the N.E. of Trouville, by the Honfleur road, is the
vs^atering-place of Villerville (omnibus 1 fr.; private carr. according to
bargain). The road ascends a steep hill, passing the fine Chateau Cordier
and several pretty villas. 1^/4 M. Henitequeville. — Villerville {Hotel de
Paris; des Bains; de la Plage; etc.) is a picturesquely-situated bathing-
place of more humble pretentions than Trouville or Deauville. It has a
small Casino and is surrounded by attractive country-houses.

From Trouville to Le Havre, see p. 61 ; to Honfleur., see p. 173.

The Railway to Cabourg diverges to the right from that from
Lisieux to Paris. On the right lies the race-course of Deauville. —
31/2 M. TourgeviUe. To the right rises Mont Canisy (330 ft.), sur-
mounted by the ruins of the Chateau de Lassay and of the Church of
St. Arnoult, an 11th cent, priory. From Tourge'ville a visit may
be paid to the Chateau de Glatigny (16-17th cent.), which has a fine
carved wooden facade. — 8 M. BlonviUe, with several country-houses.

7 M. Villers-Sur-Mer. — Hotels. Des Herbages, on the beach ^
DE Paris, adjacent, R. & L. 41/2, pens. 10-12 fr. ; Bras d'Or, in the village,
R. from 21/2, D. 3 fr.; du Casino, near the Bras d'Or. — Sea-Baths I72 fr.-,
bathing:-box and foot-bath 60, costume 50, peignoir 25, tow^el 10 c.

Villers-sur-Mer is a picturesquely situated sea-bathing place
resembling Trouville. The environs are undulating and prettily
wooded; the shingly beach, 1 M. from the station, is very extensive
and flanked by tasteful villas. At one end is a small Casino (adm.
1 fr.). The church, on the cliff, has been partly rebuilt in the Gothic
style of the 13th cent, and is embellished with stained glass by
Duhamel-Marette. — Interesting excursion to (372 M.) Houlgate
via the Desert and the Vaches Noires (p. 176).

The railway now ascends a steep incline, passing the station of
St. Vaast and traversing woods.

127.2 M. Beuzeval- Houlgate. — Hotels. At Houlgate, to the
right on arriving from Trouville: Grand Hotel d'Houlgate, Rue Bau-
mier, a large house of the first class, with sea-view, separated from the
casino by a garden, R. 3-25, L. & A. 13/4, D. 5, pens, from 12 fr.; Beause-
JOUK, Bellevue, Rue des Bains , the continuation of the Rue Baumier
towards Beuzeval. — At Beuzeval: Grand Hotel Imbert; de Paris.

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 50-60, costume 40-50, peignoir 30 c., etc. —
Casino. At Houlgate, adm. Ifr. ; subscription for a week 12 fr., fortnight
20 fr., month 30 fr.-, for 2 pers. 20, 30, & 50 fr.

176 Route 23. CABOURG. Watering- Places

Beuzeval and Houlgate form practically one long village, stretch-
ing along a fine sandy beach. Houlgate is of recent origin and con-
sists mainly of villas with shady gardens. Beuzeval, through which
the railway runs, extends to within 1/4 M. of the E. end of Dives
and to the vicinity of Cahourg (see below).

About 3 M. to the N.E. is the Desert, a chaos of rocks fallen from
the cliffs which are known as the Vacfies Noires.

The railway now approaches the sea, and passes between the
last few houses of Beuzeval and the shore. A little farther on, the
Dives enters the sea. Walkers to Cabourg cross the small harbour
at its mouth by a ferry. — I33/4M. Dives- Cahourg ^ about 3/^ M.
from each of the places it serves.

Bives (^Guillaume-le- Conquer ant, a quaint building, dej. 4,
D. 5 fr. inch cider; des Voyageurs, de'j. l^/o, D. 3 fr.) was the har-
bour from which William the Conqueror first set sail for England
in 1066 (comp. p. 11). A column on a neighbouring height com-
memorates the event; and the names of his companions, so far as
known, have been inscribed inside the porch of the Church, which
dates from the 14th and 15th centuries. The timber Market Build-
ings, not far from the church , also date in part from the 16th
century. Cabourg is only ^y'^ M. distant.

141/2 M. Cabourg. — Hotels. Grand Hotel, on the beach, adjoining
the Casino, at the end of the Avenue de la Mare; des Dues de Nokmamdie,
also on the beach; du Casino, du Nord, Bras d'Ok, in the Avenue de la
Mare; de la JIaikie.

Sea -Baths, I1/2 fr. ; bathing-box alone 60 c. , costume 50 c., etc. —
Casino. Adm. 1 fr. and 1 fr. extra for the 'Salle des fetes'; subscription
for a week 12, fortnight 20, month 30 fr.; for 2 pers. 20, 30, & 45 fr.

Cabourg is of modern origin, at least so far as the sea-baths are
concerned. It is laid out on a fan-shaped plan, which, however, as at
Deauville, is far from being completed. It has several fine avenues,
but the wide sandy beach is bare. There is, of course, the usual
huge Casino, with its Terrasse.

From Dives-Caboukg to Bevooville ( Caen, Lvc-stir-Afer), QV^M.. steam
tramway in 1 hr. (fares 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 85, 90 c). The line passes the entrance
of Cabourg (25, 20, 15 c.). and continues at s^me distance from the sea. —
21/2 Bl. Le Home (Grand Hotel), a small watering-place with several villas.
— Several other small stations. — 8 M. llaiivilk. We cross the Orne and
a canal. — At (OVa M.) Benouville we change cars for the Caen line (p. 112).

The railway, quitting the sea, runs to the S. to (5 M.) Dozule,
where it forks, one branch leading to (17V-> M.) Mezidon and the
other to (20 M.) Caen. See pp. 158, 172.

b. Luc-sur-Mer (Lion), Langrune, St. Aubin-sur-Mer,
and Courseulles.
I. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer direct.
14 M. Railway in 1V4-1V'-' lir. from the Gave de VOuest at Caen, in con-
nection with the trains on the main line from the S. (fares 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 80,
1 fr. 30 c.); or 10 M. in 30-35 min. less from the Gore St. Martin (p. 166),
whence special trains run (comp. the Indicateur); fares 1 fr. 75, 1 fr 35, 95 c.

in Calvados. LION-SUR-MER. 23. Route. 177

Caen, see p. 166. After leaving the Gare de I'Ouest the train
makes a wide circuit to the W. of the town, passing the station of
La Maladrerie, and reaches the Gare St. Martin (Buffet), where
carriages are changed. After a halt of 8 min. the train starts again and
runs towards the N. — 6 M. Couvrechef; Ti/o M. Camhes ; 9V2 M. Ma-
thieu. Before reaching the station of(12M.) Douvres-la-Delivrande
we have a view, to the right, of its graceful tower (12th cent.), sur-
mounted by a spire in open stone-work, flanked hy turrets. — I2Y2M.
Chapelle-de-la-Deliorande, a hamlet with the famous pilgrimage
church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Delivrande. The' present handsome
church, with two towers, in the style of the 13th cent., is modern.

— 14 M. Luc-sur-Mer, see helow.

II. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer via Ouistreham.

15 M. Steam Tkamway (p. 172) in IV2 hr. (fares 2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 45 c).

Caen, see p. 166. Starting in the Boul. St. Pierre, the tramway
skirts the left hank of the canal between Caen and the sea, via Calix,
Herouville, and (4^9 M.) Blainville. At (6 M.) BenouvilU it is joined
by the tramway from Dives-Cabourg (p. 176).

91/2 M. Ouistreham (Hot. du Calvados; Univers ; de la Marine),
an old seaport at the mouth of tlie canal, with a Romanesque church
(12th cent.). Steamboat to Le Havre (p. 61). — 10 M. Riva Bella
(Hot. de la Plage) and (I272 M.) La Breche - d' Hermanville have
sea-baths.

13 M. Lion-SUr-Mer. — Hotels. Grand Hotel, on the beach, R. from
3-4, dej. 21/2, D. 3V2 fr. incl. cider; de la Plage; du Calvados, Bellevue,
dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. — Furnished Houses. — Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 20 c.,
costume 40 c, peignoir 15 c, towel 10 c.

Lion-sur-Mer is the leading watering-place on the W. coast of
Calvados, though it is even less pretentious than Houlgate or Ca-
bourg and has no casino. The whole coast to the W. of Caen, though
a little shingly, is very suitable for bathing, and at places it rises in
cliffs of some height. At certain points the end of the season is apt
to be accelerated by the smell of the sea-weed cast up in large
quantities by the sea, which though used as manure by the peasants,
is seldom wholly carted away before it begins to decay. There are
few distractions at these watering-places beyond those offered by the
sea and the beach. The bathing-boxes are large enough to be let
(25-45 fr. per month) as day-quarters for visitors.

13^2 M. Haul-Lion has a Renaissance chateau.

15 M. Luc-sur-Mer. — Hotels. Belle-Plage, R., L., & A. 2^li-b^/i,
B. 1, dej. 3, D. 3V2 fr. ; du Petit-Enfer, pens, from 7 fr., both on the beach.

— Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 40, costume 30-60, 'peignoir' 30 or 40, towel 10 c.

— Casino. Adm. 1 fr., subs, for a week 7, fortnight 13, month 10 fr.;
family-tickets less.

Luc-sur-Mer, which has a small harbour, is the oldest though
not now the pleasantest or most frequented bathing-place on this
coast. It possesses a tolerable Casino. — The Faciilte des Sciences

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 12

178 Route 3. ST. AUBIN-SUR-MEE.

of Caen maintains a Maritime Laboratory at the E. end of the boacli
of Luc, in the direction of Lion.

III. From Luc-sur-Mer to Langrune, St. Aubin-sur-Mer, and CourseuUes.

1/2, 13/4, and 5 M. Railway in 3-5, 10-12, and 18-20 minutes.

The footpath along the shore to Langrune and St. Attbin, which are
respectively 2/4 M. and 2 M. to the W. of Luc, is shorter than the road
past the railway-.'tation, which lies 5-600 yds. from the beach. — Omnibus
tramway from Luc to Bernit-res, 40 c.

Beyond Luc the railway runs close to the shore. The Rochers dii
Calvados in the sea are said to derive their name from the 'Salvador',
a vessel belonging to the 'Invincible Armada', wrecked here in 1588.

15 M. (from Gaen) Langrune. — Hotels. Be la Terkasse, on the
shore outside the village, halfway to St. Aubin (see below); de Bellevue,
D. 3 fr. ; de la Mer, with cafe. — Bathing-box 30 c.

Langrune resembles Luc in its general characteristics, but it is
only 3/4 M. by the shore from Luc and 1 M. from St. Aubin, both
of which have casinos. The Church has an elegant stone spire dating
from the 13-14th cent, and contains a fine stone pulpit.

16 m. St. Aubin-sur-Mer. — Hotels. De la Terrasse, halfway to
Langrune (see above); pe Paris, with the casino; St. Aubix, Bellevle,
well-situated on the beach; de la Marine, on the outskirts. — Sea-Baths
as at Langrune. — Casino, near the E, end of the beach, adm. 50 c. and
Ifr. ; less to subscribers. — Cafe de VUnivers, near the Casino.

St. Aubin-sur-Mer^ though only a village like Langrune, with a
shingly beach, is on the whole a better sea-bathing place. It has a
long 'Terrasse', on the beach, backed by attractive villas, and pos-
sesses oyster-beds.

171/2 M. Bernitres (Yigne; de la Mer) also has a few bathing-
boxes and an interesting church dating from the ll-13th centuries.

191/2 M. CourseuUes (^Hot. desElr angers; de Paris, on the beach,
near the station), at the mouth of the SeuUes, carries on an active
trade in oysters. Its sea-baths are the most primitive on this coast
and the most exposed to tlie sea-weed annoyance. They are at
some little distance from the town, and the beach is still in its pristine
roughness. The oyster-beds are between the station and the harbour.

At Creulli/^ 5'/-' M. up the valley of the Seniles, is a fine old cha-
teau of the 12-16th cent. ; the ruined Prior// of St. Gabriel, V/i M. farther
on, dates from the 11th, 13th, and 15th centuries.

A steam-tramwi.y is to be built along the coast from CourseuUes via
(3V2 M.) Ver-sw-Mer (Hotel Villa-des-Arts), with sea-baths, and (7 M.) Asiiel-
les (p. 161) to Porf-en-Bessin (p. 161).

24. From Cherbourg to Brest.

(Granville, Mont St. Michel, St. Malo.)

262 M. Railway in 13"/-! lirs. (fares 51 fr. 95, 38 fr. 95, 28 fr. 60 c.). —
To Granville, changing carriages at Folligny (p. 187j, 91 M., in 41/4 hrs.
(fares 15 fr. 45, 10 fr. 45. 6 fr. 75 c.). — To Mont St. Michel. Railwav to
(100 M.) PoHtorson in 5'/2 brs. (p. 181; fares 19 fr. 95, 14 fr. 95, 10 fr. 95 c);
thence (5'/-.' M.) by railway-diligence or omnibus (soe p. 227). — To St. Malo,
changing carriages at Dol (p. 222; halt of 1 hr. 40 min.), 126 M., in 9Vi hrs.

COUTANCES. 24. Route. 179

(fares 25 fr. 45, 19 fr. 10, 13 fr. 5 c). — Con<^iderable halts at one or more
intermediate stations on all these routes.

Cherbourg, see p. 162. The train follows the line to Paris as
far as (11 M.) Sottevast (p. 162), where it diverges to the S., travers-
ing an undulating and wooded district,

16 M. Bricquehec { Vieux-Chateau), a small town with an impos-
ing ruined Castle of the 14-16th cent., and an interesting Church in
the Transition style. Near the castle is a bronze statue, by Canova,
of General Lemarois (1776-1836 ), a native of the town.

221/2 M. Nehou. — 25 M. St. Sauveur-le- Vicomte is commanded
by the ruins of a chateau and an abbey, dating from the 10-llth
centuries. — 33 M. La Haye-du-Puits, with an old ruined castle,
is also a station on the line from Carentan to Carteret (p. 161).

3QM. AngoviUe-sur-Ay. — 38 M. Lessa?/, with a fine abbey-church
(11th cent.), is the station for the small sea-baths of St. Germain-
sur-Ay, 3^/^ M. to the N.W. (21/2 M. to the W. of Angoville), and
Piroii, 41/2 M. to the S.W. — 45 M. Periers, with an interesting
church (14-16th cent.). Beyond (48^2 M.) St. Sauveur-Lendelin we
join the line from Lison (p. 161).

571/2 M. Coutances [Buffet; Hotel de France; d'Angleterre; du
Dauphin; des Trois Rois, well spoken of), a picturesquely situated
town with 7400 inhab. and the seat of a bishop, is of ancient origin.

Its name is derived frum Constantins Chlorus, who is helieved to have
fortified it in the third century. It siiirovcd much fr m the incursions of
the Normans, as well as subsequently in the English war>. From 1417
till 1449 it was occupied bv tlie Knglish. The Huguenots captured Cou-
tances in 1561, 1562, 1563 and 1565.

The most conspicuous building is the fine Gothic ^Cathedral,
dating in great part from the 13th cent., with two W. towers, and
a beautiful central *Tower of great boldness, which forms a fine
lantern in the interior. Mr. Ruskin, in his 'Lectures on Architec-
ture', singles out the W. towers of this church as showing one of the
earliest examples (if not the very earliest) of the fully developed spire,
and points out 'the complete domesticity of the work ; the evident
treatment of the church spire merely as a magnified house-roof. The
tower should be ascended both for the sake of inspecting it and for
the sake of the view from the top, which embraces St. Malo and the
island of Jersey. In the interior the chief points of interest in-
clude the triforium and the beautiful rose-windows in the nave, the
double ambulatory in the choir, with its coupled columns, the
Gothic high-altar of the 18th cent., and some Gothic bas-reliefs in the
last chapel on the right before the choir. — A little to the S.E. is
the simple and attractive Gothic Church of St. Pierre (14- 16th cent.),
containing finely carved choir-stalls. — To the N.E., in the garden
of the -Palais de Justice, is a statue of Lebrun, Due de Plaisance
(1739-1824), who was born near Coutances. — Behind the small
Musee is a fine Public Garden., in the suburb beyond which is a ruined
Aqueduct., erected in the 14th and restored in the 16th century.

12*

180 Route 24, AVRANCHES.

An excursion may be made from Coutances to the picturesque ruined
Abbey of Hambye, about 14 M. to tbe S.E. The ruins seem to date mainly
from the 15th century.

A diligence plies from Coutances station to (71/2 M.) Coutainville (Grand
Hotel, etc.), a sea-bathing place, via (5 M.) Tourville and (6 M.) Agon.

Beyond Coutances we enjoy a fine retrospect of the town. 62 M.
Orval-Hyenville, 21/2 M. from \\liicli is the sea-bathing resort of
Montmartin. Beyond (64 M.) QuettrevUle the Sienne is crossed.

75 M. Folligny (Buffet) is the junction of the line from Paris to
Granville (R. 25). — Beyond (82 M.) Montviron-Sartilly we catch
a glimpse of Mont St. Michel to the right. The See is crossed.

86 1/2 M. Avranches [Hotel de Londres; de France; d' Angleterre ;
Bonneau, near the station, moderate), one of the oldest towns in
Normandy, with 7845 inhab., is picturesquely situated on a hill on
the left bank of the See, commanding an exquisite and justly famed
*View of the Bay of St. Michel. The direct footpath to the town leads
to the right from the station, but carriages must make a detour to the
left ( omnibus 45 c, at night 60 c, luggage 20 c).

The name of the town is derived from the Abrincatae, who are men-
tioned by Pliny. The Givitas Abvincatum was one of the important cities
in the Second Lugdunensis in the 5th century. The bishopric of Avranches
was probably founded in the 6th century. From 1421 till 1450 the town
was occupied by the F.nglish. Avranches suffered severely at the hands of
the Huguenots; and in 1591 it stubbornly resisted the troops of Henri IV,
on the ground that he was a Protestant. In July, 1639, the revolt of the
Nu-Pieds, or armed rising of the peasantry against the 'Gabelle\ broke out
at Avranches. The rising was put down with relentless cruelty.

Avranches is a favourite resort of English visitors, and English church
services are held here at 11 and 5 in summer, and at 11 and 3.30 in winter.

Avranches at one time possessed a beautiful Norman-Gothic
cathedral, but it was destroyed in 1790, and only a few shapeless
ruins in front of the Sous-Prefecture are left to recall it. An inscrip-
tion on a broken column indicates the spot where Henry II. of
England did humble penance in 1172 for the murder of Thomas
Becket. The Place commands a fine view. The Bishop's Garden,
to the right, farther on, contains a marble statue, by Cartellier, of
General Valhubert (1764-1805), who was born at Avranches. The
old Bishop's Palace, dating from the 15th cent., is now occupied by
law-courts and by a small Musee of antiquities, paintings, and natural
history. A litth' to the S. is Notre-Dame-des-Champs, the principal
church in the town, recently rebuilt in a mixed Gothic style of the
13-14th centuries. The stained windows are fine. The church of
St. Saturnin, a few yards to the left of the apse of Notre-Dame, has
also been restored in a similar style. The interesting Jardin des
Plantes (good view), is entered from the E. side of the square in
front of Notre-Dame. The church of St. Gervais, nearer the centre
of the town, dates from the 17th century.

Beyond Avranches the railway recrosses the See, and beyond
(91 M.) Pontauhault it crosses the Seiune by a lofty bridge (branch-
line to Vire via Mortain, see p. 187). — 96 M. Servon-Tanis.

ST. CYR. 2,1 Route. 181

100 M. Pontorson. Pontorson and Mont St. Michel, see p. 227.
Railway to Fougeres and Vitre^ see p. 207.

Our line crosses the railway to Vitre and the river Couesnon, the
boundary between Normandy and Brittany. — 116 M. Dol (Buffet),
the junction of the line from Rennes to St. Malo (see p. 222). At
(124 M.) Miniac-Morvan a branch-line diverges to La Gouesnit>re-
Cancale (see p. 230). Between (127 M. ) Pleudlhen and (1291/2 M.)
La Hisse the railway twice crosses the picturesque valley of the
Ranee (p. 230) by viaducts, 100 ft. in height.

1331/2 M. Dinan, see p. 230.

139 M. Corseul^'dn important strategic point held by the Romans,
is identified with the capital of the Curiositites or the Fanum Martis
of the Theodosian Itinerary. I441/2 M. Plancoet (Hot. des Voyageurs),
pleasantly situated in the valley of the Arguenon.

From Plancoet diligences ply to the N. and N.W. to (6 M.) St. Jacut-
de-la-Mer and to (8V2 M.) St. Cast {(diligence also from Dinard, see p. 226). —
St. Jacut-de-la-Mer (Hdt. des Dimes ; des Bains ; Convent-Pension) is a small
seaport and bathing-resort, near which are the picturesque ruined Chateau
du Guildo and the Pierres Sonnantes de St. Jacut , rocks which emit a re-
sonant note when struck. — The diligence to the small village of St. Cast
passes [b^j-z M.) Matignon (Hot. des Voyageurs), not far from the Chateau
du Guildo (see above), and (8 M.) La Garde-St-Cast (Hot. de la Plage)., a
bathing-phice with a sandy beach. — To the N.W. of St. Cast are the
(71/2 M.) old Fort de la Latte and the (10 M.) Cap Fr4hel, with fine cliff
scenery (steamer from St. Malo, see p. 223).

1431/2 M. Landebia. The train now traverses a wood.
158 M. Lamhalle, and thence to Brest, see pp. 213-218.

25. From Paris to Granville.

205 M. Railway (Chemin de Per de POuest., Hive Gauche) in 6^4-101, 2 hrs.
(fares 36 fr. 85, 24 fr. 90, 16 fr. 25 c). The express trains start from the Gare
St. Lazare (PI. C, 16), most of the others from the Gare Montparnasse (PI.
G, 16). — To Mont St. Michel, see pp. 187, 188. Comp. the Map, p. 100.

51/2 M. Bellevue is the only station between Paris and Versailles
at which the trains stop. — 11 M. Versailles, see Baedeker s Paris.
The palace and park are seen to the right, beyond a tunnel. To the
left is the fortified plateau of Satory.

14 M. St. Cyr, famous for its military school, founded in 1806,
numbering 1200 cadets between the ages of 16 and 20. The building,
which is well seen from the train (to the right), was originally oc-
cupied by a school for daughters of the nobility, founded by Mme.
de Maintenon, and for these 'Demoiselles' Racine wrote his dramas
of 'Esther' and 'Athalie'. Railway to Brittany, see R. 28.

21 M. Plaisir-Grignon. Grignon possesses a well-known Agri-
cultural Institute, established in a fine chateau of the 17th century.
— Branch to (12 M.) Epone-Mezieres (p. 44) under construction. —
25 M. Viliiers-Neauphle. At Pontel near Neauphle is the 17th cent.
Chateau de Pontchartrain.

28 M. Montfort-l' Amaury. The little town, which lies about

182 Route 25. DREUX. From Paris

13/4 M. to the left of the station, contains an interesting church of
the 15-16th cent., and the ruined castle (10th cent.) of the Comtes
de Montfort, which was the birthplace of Simon de Montfort, the able
though cruel leader in the campaign against the Albigenses and the
father of the famous Earl of Leicester.

The castle at (39V2 M.) Houdan (Hot. du Plat- d'Etain), of
which the donjon and a round tower with four turrets still stand,
also belonged to the counts of Montfort. It was built in 1105-
1137; the Gothic church dates from the previous century. — 46 M.
Marchezais-Broue. The river Eure is now crossed. To the right
appears Dreux.

51 M. Dreux {Buffet; Hotel de France, Rue St. Martin 24, R.,
L., & A. 21/2-31/-2, B. 11/4, de'j. 2V4, D. 3 fr. : du Paradis, Grande
Rue 51), with 9718 inhab., is situated on the Blaise, a tributary of
the Eure, at the base of a hill on which rise the ruined castle and
the Chapelle Royale.

Dreux is a place of high antiquity. Known to the Romans as Duro-
cassis or Drocae, in the territory of the Carnutes, it was annually the scene
of a great meeting of the Gauls. In the middle ages it gave name to a
famous family of counis, which, however, became extinct in 1378. In
1562 the Roman Catholics under the Due dc Guise defeated the Protestants
in a most sanguinary battle near Dreux, and captured their leader, the
Prince of Conde. In 1590, and again in 1593, Henri IV besieged the town ;
and on the second occasion he destroyed the castle. The Germans made
themselves masters of the town in Xov., 1870, after a short resistance.

Quitting the station and crossing the river, we soon reach the
Place Metezeau, named in honour of two famous architects of Dreux,
who flourished in the 10th and 17th centuries. Opposite us are
the church of St. Pierre and the Hotel de Ville.

The Church of St. Pierre, a Gothic edifice of the 13-15th cent.,
also shows traces of the handiwork of the Me'te'zeaus. Only one of
its two towers has been finished (in the 16th cent.); and the exterior
generally has been much injured by the flight of time. The Lady
Chapel and the chapels of the aisles contain some good old stained
glass, restored in modern times. The former has also a fine organ-
case, designed in 1614 by Cle'ment Me'te'zeau, the constructor of the
breakwater at La Rochelle.

The Hotel de Ville, which resembles a large square donjon,
was built between 1502 and 1537 and illustrates the transition from
the mediaeval to the Renaissance style. The facade on the side
farthest from the Place is flanked by two turrets with crow-stepped
angles, and is embellished with blind arcades and elaborate carving
round the door and windows. The staircase and the vaulting in the
interior should be noticed. A clock of the 16th cent., a few works
of art, and the small library are also shown to visitors.

The route to the Chapelle Royale crosses the square in front of
the Hotel de Ville (to the left, thQ Hospital Chapel, of the 17th cent.)
and follows the Grande Rue and the Rue des Tanneurs (leading to
the left to the modern Palais de Justice). We next turn to the right.

to Granville. DREUX. 25. Route. 183

follow a lane Itehind the Palais de Justice, and finally pass throiij>h
a small gateway to the left. The remains of the Castle, part of which
is seen as we ascend, are insignificant. The Chapelle occupies part
of the outer ward, which has been converted into a fine public prom •
enade (open daily till 6 p.m. in summer, 4 p.m. in winter).

It, is advisable to examine the exterior of the chapel before applying
at the gate for adnaission (fee). The visitor should not hurry over his
inspection of the interior, especially as he quits the building by a side-
door in the crypt, without returning to the nave. — Mass on Sun. at 10 a.m.

The *Ghapellb Royale, or Chapelle St. Louis, is a handsome and
highly interesting erection, in spite of the medley of architectural
styles which it presents. It was begun in 1816 by the Dowager
Duchess of Orle'ans, mother of Louis Philippe, and enlarged and
completed by her son as a burial-place for the Orb'ans family. In
1876 the remains of the exiled Louis Philippe and his queen were
transferred hither from their temporary tombs at Weybridge in Eng-
land. The principal part of the chapel, and the first built, is the
rotunda, 80 ft. high, crowned by a dome 43 ft. in diameter. The
nave, the apse, and the transepts, which were afterwards added so
as to form a Greek cross, are all very short. The strange appearance of
the pile is heightened by four balustrades which run round the out-
side of the dome, one above the other. On either side of the main
entrance is an octagonal turret, in open stone-work; and the portal
itself is lavishly ornamented with sculptures, representing the Angel
of the Resurrection, the Eternal Father, Ecce Homo, St. Louis beneath
the oak-tree at Vincennes, the Apostles (on the door), etc.

The Intekior is even more gorgeous than the exterior, and produces
the effect of being over-loaded. The lirst objects to attract attention in the
part of the church used for service are the magni: cent "Staiied Windows.
In the Nave, to the right, Christ in Gethseinane and St. Arnold washing
the feet of pilgrims; to the left. Cruci'xion and St. Adelaide giving alms,
after Larivi'ere; in the Transe;>ts, Twelve saints, ; fter Ingi-es; in the cu-
pola, Descent of the Holy Ghost, after Lariviere. Many of the sculptures,
which are unfortunately difiicult to see, are fine; they include statues,
bas-reliefs, and stalls. — The funeral monuments are arranged in the Apse,
to which steps descend behind the altar. At the sides are marble statues,
by Pradie.r , aliove the tombs of the young Due dt^ PenfhiL'vre and of a
young Princes--e de Montpensier. At the foot of the -^teps is the monument
of Louis Fliilipi>e (d. 1850) and his consort, Marie Amelie (d. 18G6), with a
group of the deceased by Mercier. To the right is the tomb of the Princess
Marie, Duchess of Wurtemberg (d. 1839), with her eftigy, by Lemaire, and a
beautiful statue of the Angel of Resignation, sculptured by herself; then the
iombs of the Duke of Orleans (d. 1842), with a statue by Loison, after Ary
Scheffer^ and of the Duchess of Orleans (Helena of Mecklenburg-Schwerin;
d. 1858), with a statue by Chapu. To the left of the altar rest Mme. Adelaide
(d. 1847), sister of Louis Philippe, with a statue by Millet (1877), the Doaager
Duchess of OrUaiis (d. 1821), foundress of the chapel, with a statue bv Barre
the Yowi'jei-., and the Princess of Salerno (d. 1831), mother-in-law of the Due
d'Aumale, with a statue by A. Lenoir. There are other tombs in the crypt
of the ambulatory, some unoccupied and some without monuments. Among
the statues here the most noteworthy are those of two youthful Princes
de Montpensier, by Millet; and the charming group by Franceschi, marking
the grave of two children of the Comte de Paris. The Duche^se d'Aumale
(d. 1859; statue by Lenoir) and the Due d' AiimaU (d. 1897) ara also interred
here. — On each side steps lead down to the Crypt proper. The four mag.

184 Route 25. VERNEUIL. From Paris

nificent ''Stained Windows^ representing scenes from the life of St. Louis,
were designed 'by Eouget^ Jacquant^ E. Delacroix, E. Wattier, H. Vernet,
BoutoH, and H. Flandrin. Most of the five other "Stained Windows in the
passages, representing scenes frona the Passion, were designed by Larivihre.
All the stained glass used in the chapel was made at Sevres. — The large
crypt beneath the rotunda and the smaller one beneath the sanctuary con-
tain other tombs and funeral urns.

After the circuit of the promenades has "been made and the
views enjoyed, there is little more to be seen at Dreux. In the square
at the end of the Rue de Rotrou, to the N. of St. Pierre, is a bronze
statue, by J. J. Allasseur, of Rotrou, the dramatic poet (1609-50),
who was born at Dreux.

A branch-railway runs from Dreux through the valley of the Eure to
(17 M.) Maintenon^ passing (8V2 M.) Nogent-le-Roi^ near which is Cozilombs,
with the ruins of a Romanesque abbey.

From Dreux to Chartres (Orleans) and to Bueil and Rouen^ see p. 59.

Beyond (SG'/oM.) St- Germain- St-Remy the railway crosses the
Arve, a tributary of the Eure, and traverses a pastoral district, dotted
with manufactories. 60 M. Nonancourt, on the Arve ; 67 M. TiLLieres,
also on the Arve, in a picturesque little valley to the right.

73 M. Verneuil (Hot. du Commerce), a town with 4330 inhab.,
was fortified in the 12th cent, by Henry I. of England. The battle of
Verneuil, fought in 1424 between the English under the Duke of
Bedford and the French, resulted in the defeat of the latter. The
church of La Madeleine, a remarkable edifice of the ll-17th cent.,
has a lofty and elegant Gothic *Tower of 1506-36, to the left of which
is a poor porch, still bearing the inscription 'Temple de la Raison'.

Intekiok (recently restored). Above the Gothic arches of the nave are
round arches. Several of the stained-glass windows and various works of
art date from the 15th and 16th cent., while some of the more modern
works are noteworthy. Choir-stalls of the 16th cent. ; interesting iron pulpit.

In the street to the left as we quit the church is a House of the
15th cent, with a turret displaying a checquered pattern in stone,
brick, and flint. The Rue du Canon leads thence to the church of
St. Lawrence (partly IGth cent.) and the Tour Grise, an ancient keep
65 ft. high (accessible to visitors). — The church of Notre-Dame
(12-16th cent.) contains a number of interesting sculptures, and
has also some good stained glass. — The Tour St. Jean, dating
partly from the 15th cent., belongs to a secularized church.

The branch-line from Evreux (p. 156) is continued beyond Verneuil to
(24M.) La Loupe, via (IOV2M.) La Ferti-Vidame-Lamblore and (18M.) Senonches.

79 M. Bourth. The train now enters the Forest of Laigle, and
beyond the two branch-railways mentioned below crosses the Risle.

871/2 M. Laigle (Buffet; H6t.de I'Aigle-d'Or; du Dauphin), an in-
dustrial town with 5125 inhab., situated on the Risle, manufactures
needles, pins, buckles, etc. The Gothic church of St. Martin, near
the railway, to the left, has a handsome tower (15th cent.).

A branch runs from Laigle to (251/-' m.) Mortagne (p. 199), via the ForH
du Perche and (IOV2 M.) Tourouvre. — To Couches (Evreux), see p. 157.

The railway continues to ascend the valley of the Risle, and
crosses the river twice. — 97 M. Ste. Gaubunje.

to Oranville. ARGENTAN. 25. Route. 185

A bi-anch-railway runs hence to (21^/2 M.) Mortayne (p. 199), via (11 M.)
Soligmj - la - Trappe ^ 2^/2 M. to the N.E. of which is the monastery of La
Trappe or La Grande Trappe, in a wild situation near a i)ond C-trappe'),
but otherwise uninteresting. The monastery, founded in the 12th cent., was
most famous under the Abbe de Ranee (d. 1700), who introduced the rule
of strict silence, hard work, and plain fare. Expelled at the Revolution,
the monks returned in 1815 •, and in 1833 the new monastery and church were
consecrated. The Romanesque chapel was added in 1S92.

Branches from Ste. Gauburge to Bernay and to Le Mesnil-Mauger\ see
p. 158.

104 M. Le MerlerauU^ a pleasantly situated little town. Be-
fore reaching the station of (107 M.) Nonant-le-Pin the train
passes, on the right, St. Germain-de-CtairefeuiUe ^ the church of
which ( 14-15th cent.) contains some fine, though mutilated, wood-
carving, and several antique paintings upon panel. — 113 M. Sur-
don (Buffet), Railway to Aleni^on, etc., see ii. 26.

From (115'/2 M.) Almeneches a diligence plies to the village of
Mortree^ 3'/.2 M. to the S., in the neighhourhood of which are the
Chateau d'O^ a magnificent edifice of the Renaissance, and the Cha-
teau de Clerai^ of a somewhat later period. The railway now crosses
the Orne, and Argentan comes into view to the right.

122 M. Argentan (^Buffet; Hotel des Trots -Maries, Rue de la
Chausse'e; de I' Quest, at the station) is a town with 6300 inhab.,
situated on the Orne. The *Church of St. Germain, reached by the
Rue de la Chaussee, dates from the late-Gothic and Renaissance
periods. The W. tower is crowned by a Renaissance dome, and the
tower over the crossing forms a fine internal lantern. The nave con-
tains two galleries, with balustrades, and the transepts terminate in
apses. The ambulatory is in the Renaissance style. The vaulting,
the choir-screen, the altars in the choir and S. transept, and the
organ should be noticed.

Near the church, to the S., stands the Hotel de Ville, behind
which extends a large square. Near the Hotel de Ville, to the right,
is a ruined donjon, and close by, to the left, is the old Chateau [15th
cent.), now used as the Palais de Justice or court-house. In front
of the last is a small square, embellished with a monument in honour
of Mezerai (1610-83), the historian, Ch. Eudes d'Houay (1611-99),
the surgeon, and Jean Eudes (1601-80), founder of the Eudistes.
To the right of the palais is the old Gothic church of St. Nicolas ,•
to the left is the promenade known as the Cours.

The Rue du Griffon, diverging from the Rue de la Chausse'e
near St. Germain, leads to the other side of the town, where are
situated the large round Tour Marguerite, with a peaked roof, a relic
of the fortifications, and the Gothic church of St. Martin, in which,
however, the gallery and the balustrade beneath the windows are in
the Renaissance style.

Argentan is also a station on the railway from Caen (Falaise) to Alen-
Qon and Le Mans (see R. 26). — Diligence to (15 M.) Carrouges (p. 199).

The railway quits the valley of the Orne, after crossing the
river. 128 M. Ecouche, beyond which the monotonous plain melts

1 86 Route 25. FLERS. From Paris

into a pleasant and undulating country, with meadows and woods.
Attractive and extensive view to the left. — 140 M. Briouze (Poste)^
a little town carrying on a trade in cattle and granite.

From Briouze to Couterne, I81/2 M., railway in Vfi-2 hr?. (fares
3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). — 4 M. Lonlay, with aii abbey-church of the
11th and 16th cent.; 8V2 M. La Ferti-Maci (Cheval Noir), a village with
7775 inhab., carrying on the manufacture of ticking. — 13i/'-2 M. Bagnoles-
de-l'Orne (Hdtel des Bains; de Paris; de Bagnoles), a hamlet situated in a
deep rocky gorge on the F^e, a tributary of the Mayenne. It possesses one
sulphurous (warm) and two chalybeate Surings^ producing a strong sedative
effect and used both internally and externally. A casino, a park, a lake,
and pretty walks are among the attractions. — I8V4 M. Couterne^ see p. 199.

148 M. Messei is also served by the railway to Domfront (p. 193).

151 M. Flers (Buffet; Hotel de L' Europe; de I' Quest; du Gros-
Ckene, at the station), a modern cotton-manufacturing town with
13,400 inhah., agreeably situated on a hill to the right. It has a
fine Norman church. In the neighbourhood is a Chateau^ part of which
dates from the 16th century.

Flers is also a station on the railway from Caen to Laval (see p. 192).

154 M. Caligni - Cerisy is also a station on the line to Caen
(p. 192). — 1571/2 M. Montsecret'Vassy.

A branch-railway runs hence to Sourdeval via (5 M.) Tinchebray
(Lion dWr), a small industrial town, with manufactures of hardware. At
the battle of Tinchebray in 1106 Henry I. of England defeated and captured
his elder brother Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy. — 16 M. Sourde-
val (Poste) is a similar small industrial town, which is also a station on
the railway from Vire to Mortain (see p. 187).

164 M. Viessoix. Fine view to the right as we approach Yire.

168 M. Vire {Hot. St. Pierre, Rue du Calvados; Cheval Blanc,
Rue aux Fevres), an old town with 6600 inhab., picturesquely situ-
ated on a hill washed by the river of the same name, is an important
woollen-manufacturing centre and carries on trade in the granite
quarried in the neighbourhood. Much of the blue cloth used for mili-
tary uniforms in France is made here.

The long Rue du Calvados ascends to the right from the station
to the town. At the top ('/2 M.) , in the Rue aux. Fovres (to the
right), is the square Tour de CHorloge, with a Gothic gateway of
the 13th cent., flanked by two round crenelated towers.

To the left, near the end of the Rue de la Saulnerie, rises the
Church of Notre-Dame,a, large Gothic structure of the 12-15th rent.,
with double aisles and a central tower. Like most of the other build-
ings of Vire, it is built of granite. In the interior, to the left of the
choir, is a tasteful Gothic door. The high-altar, in gilt bronze, is
embellished with statues; the altar in the N. transept is also orna-
mented with statues and bas-reliefs, and that in the S. transept with
a Pieta; and the large chapel, to the right of the sanctuary, contains
a painted and gilded altar-piece with twisted columns. This chapel
also contains the font, encircled by a tasteful balustrade, and two
interesting paintings. The polychrome painting in the choir and
two carved wooden pillars below the organ are noteworthy. — Tlie

to Granville. VIRE. 25. Route. 187

adjoining Place Nationale is embellished with a Imst, by Le-
Iiarivel-Dui'ocher, of ChenedolLt^ the poet (1769-1833), who was
born at Vire; and with a Monument to 1789, consisting of a column
with a statue of the Republic (erected in 1889).

The ruins of the Chateau, seen from the Place, are scanty, but
they occupy a picturesque situation on the brow of a rocky penin-
sula, dominating the charming valley of the Vire. A promenade leads
to the chateau, which commands a line view of the lower town.

In this valley in the 15th cent, dwelt Olivier Basselin, the fuller, to
whom are attributed the famous drinking-songs, which, known as 'Vaux-
de Vire", gave origin to the modern tei-m 'Vaudeville'. The real author
was Jean le Houx, who flourished at the close of the 16th century.

This part of the town, called the Valhe'rel, possesses the hand-
some modern Norman Church of St. Anne, with a central tower. The
choir is adorned with paintings and statues, and there are twenty-
five statues in the arcades beneath the windows of the apse.

The Grande Rue, leading from the front of the church to the
upper town, passes through the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, in which
rises a bronze statue, by Debay, of Castel (1758-1832), another
native poet of Vire. The crenelated Tower behind is disfigured by
modern additions. — The Hotel de Ville contains a Library and a
small Musee (Sun. & Thnrs., 2-4 ; to strangers on otlier days also)
of paintings, coins, porcelain, carvings, antiquities, curiosities, etc.
— In the Public Garden, behind the Hotel de Ville, is a marble
statue of Marshal de Matignon (1525-97"), attributed to Coustou.

A branch-railway runs from Vire to (22V2 M.) Mortain (Avranches) via
the valley of the Vire and Sourdeval (p. 186). Mortain (Paste) is a pictur-
esquely situated little town, on a rocky eminence rising from the Cance. The
Church is an interesting example of the Transition style. The rocky valley
of the Cance is attractive, especially above Mortain, at the Petit S^minaire,
the ancient Abbaye Blanche (12- 13th cent.). A good view is obtained from
the Chapelle St. Michel^ on a neighbouring hill. P>om Mortain to Dom-
front, see p. 1S3. — The line proceeds to the W. via (36 M.) St. Hilaire-
du-Harcouet (branch to Fou'j:eres, p. 207), and joins the line to Avranches
at (51 31.) Pontaubault (p. 180).

Beyond Vire the railway to Granville crosses the Vire. Fine view
to the right. 174 M. St. Sever, to the left, with an abbey-church,
part of which dates from the 13th century. — 181 M. Vitledieu-les-
Poeles, a small town on the Sienne, to the right, contains numerous
boiler-works. The church dates from the 15-16th centuries.

The railway now follows a lofty curved embankment, and crosses
the pretty valley of the Airou. On the left, the railway to Avran-
ches. — 195 M. FoUigny (^Buffet; Hotels, near the station).

Railway from Folligny to Coutances, Pontorson (Mont St. Michel), etc.,
see p. 180.

Beyond (200 M.) St. Planchers we descend the valley of the Bosq.

205 M. Granville. — Hotels. Grand Hotel du Nord et des Trois
CouRONNES, in the lower town, near the harbour, dear; Grand Hotel,
at the beginning of the lower town; *de Paris, Rue du Cours-Jonville,
R., L., &A. 21/2 fr., B. 50-60 c, dej. 21/2, D. 23/4 fr. incl. cider; des Bains,
nearer the beach; Houllegatte, Cours Jonville ; Tivoli. — Caf ^.-Restaurant
du Casino, dej. 4, D. 5 fr.; other cafes in the Rue Lecampion.

1»» Route 25. GRANVILLE.

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 30, costume 50, bathing-drawers 20, peignoir 20,
towel 10 c. — Casino, Adm. 1 fr. ; subs, for a week 8, fortnight 15, season
30 fr.; family-tickets less in proportion.

British Vice-Consul, General MacLeod.

Granville^ a small fortified seaport, with 12,000 inhab., at the
mouth of the Bosq , is said to have been originally founded in
the 12th century. The English fortified it in 1640 but lost it
the following year. They burned it in 1695 and bombarded it
in 1808. It consists of two distinct parts , viz. the lower town,
the larger half, between the station and the harbour, and the upper
town, perched on a steep rock extending into the sea and surround-
ed with the old fortifications. The street beginning at the station
leads to the Cours Jonville, whence the Rue Lecampion descends,
to the left, to the Harbour, which is frequented by numerous fish-
ing-boats and a few coasting-vessels. A street diverging from the
Cours Jonville a little farther on leads to the beach (see below).

The upper town, reached directly from the harbour, is small but
commands a fine view from its unique position. The Gothic Cliurch
of Notre-Dame (15-I6th cent.) contains some good modern stained
glass. A path to the N.E., outside the fortifications, leads down to
the Beach, on the opposite side of the town from the hai'bour. The
path passes at the end through the ''Tranchee aux Anglais\ a narrow
passage between two rocks , beyond which is the firm sandy beach.
The Bathing Establishment and the small Casino are situated here.
The women of Granville wear a picturesque headdress of white linen.

The small sea-bathing resort of St. Pair (omn. at the station; 75 c.)
lies about 21/2 M. to the S.

From Granville to Avranches. — a. By Railwav, 21 M., in l-lV-'hr.
(fares 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 55, 1 fr. 70 c), see pp. 187, 180. — b. By the Coast
Road, 20 M., omnibus once daily or oftener in the season (fare 3 fr.; return-
fare 5 fr.). The omnibus sometimes takes the shorter (16 M.) but less
picturesque route via >Sartilly. The coast-road leads by the following
villages and sea-bathing resorts: 2^/2 M. St. Pair (see above); 5 M. Jullou-
ville; 7 M. Bouillon; 8 M. St. Michel-cks-Lonps; 10 M. Chainpearu ; iQi^li M.
St. Jean-le-Thomas; etc. — 20 M. Avranches, see p. 180.

From Granville to Mont St. Michel. Railway to (35 M.) Pontorson
(fares 6 fr. 25, 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 75 c); thence to Mont St. Michel, see p. 227;
about 4 hrs. in all (return-fares, inch omnibus, 8 fr. 75, 7 fr. 2.J c, 6 fr.).
— Railway to (91/2 M.) Folliyiuj, see p. 187; thence to Mont St. Michel, see
pp. 178, 227. — In the season an omnibus plies direct from Granville to
Mont St. Michel (return-fare 6 fr.).

From Granville to Jersey, 28 M. -Steamers ply from the Grand Bas-
sin on 3Ion., Wed., and Frid. (returning Tues., Thurs., Frid.) in summer,
and twice weekly (Mon. and Thurs.) at other times, in 31/2 hrs. (fares 10 fr.,
6V4 fr. ; return 15 fr., 9 fr. 40 c.); the hours of departure vary. Return-
tickets are available for a month and allow the return-journey to be made
via Carteret (p. 161) or via St. Malo (comp. p. 223).

About 71/2 M. out the steamboat passes the lies Chamey, a group of
52 islets telonging to France, all mere barren and uninhabited rocks ex-
cept the Grande He, which is remarkable for its luxuriant vegetation.
Steamboats ply from Granville to the Grande He every Sun. (return-fare
3 fr.). — Jersey and the other Channel Islands, see Baedeker''s Great Britain.

189

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alencon. Falaise.

104 M. Railway in 4-5V2 lirs. (fares 18 fr. 80, 12 fr. 75, 8 fr. 25 c). To
Alencon, 69 M., in 23/4-33/4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 55, 8 fr. 40, 5 fr. 45 c); to
Falaise, SO'/z M., in I1/2-2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 80, 3 fr. 95, 2 fr. 55 c).

Caen, see p. 166. Our train follows the Paris railway to (15 M.)
Mezidon (p. 158), then turns to the S. and ascends the valley of
the Dives. — 19'/2 M. St. Pierre-svr-Dives , a small town to the
left, possesses a Gothic ahhey-church with three tine towers, one of
which is a relic of an earlier Norman huilding. 23 M. Vendeuvre-
Jort. 27 M, Couliboeuf is the junction of a line to (4 M.) Falaise
(see below), where it joins a line to (I872 M.J Berjou (see p. 192).
Continuation of the railway to Le Mans, see p. 190.

Falaise (Hotel de Normandie, Rue Amiral-Courhet, to the left
of the main street; Grand Cerf, farther on, heyond the market-
place), a town with 8163inhab., is picturesquely situated on a rocky
height, on the right bank of the Ante, a small affluent of the Dives.

William tlie Conqueror was born here in 1027. His mother was the
daughter of a simple tanner of Falaise, who won the heart of Robert the
Magnificent, also called Robert the Devil, sixth Duke of Normandy. Wil-
liam's successors, the kings of England, remained in more or less peace-
able possession of the town until 1450, when it was finally captured by
Charles VII. of France. Falaise underwent one siege more in 1590, when
it was occupied by the Leaguers and retaken by Henri IV.

The town lies to the right as we approach from Couliboeuf; to
the left is the suburb of (}uibray (p. 190). The Rue d'Argentan
descends directly to the Place St. Gervais and the river. TheC/twrc/t
of St. Gervais is a Norman and Gothic edifice, the most noteworthy
feature of which is the fine Norman tower above the transept. In
the interior we notice the bosses of the choir and chapels, the
balustrade under the windows of the choir, and the beautiful niches
in the ambulatory. The Church of the Trinity, reached by the street
of that name on the other side of the Place St. Gervais, is a hand-
some Gothic structure, with a Renaissance W. front, consisting of
an ancient triangular porch converted into a chapel. The choir
possesses a fine arcaded balustrade like that at St. Gervais. — A
few paces farther on is an ^Equestrian Statue of William the Con-
queror, in bronze, by Rochet, erected in 1851. Round the base are
bronze figures of the first six dukes of Normandy. Adjacent stands
the Hotel de Ville, to the right of which passes the streetleadingtothe
castle. We should, however, first turn to the left to obtain a view
of the exterior.

The Castle of Falaise, a picturesque Norman riiin dating back
to the 10th cent., is finely situated on a rugged promontory jutting
out over the valley, opposite another rocky height named the Mont
Mirat. During the middle ages it was a fortress of great strength and
importance. The remains include the outer Enceinte, strengthened
with round towers of the 12th cent, and now enclosing the build-

1 90 Route '26. SEES. From Caen

ings of a college; the Donjon or Keep^ a massive Norman structure
of tlie 11th or 12th cent., measuring 65 ft. in height and the same
in breadth; and Talbot's Tower, a round tower 130 ft. high, added
by the English in the 15th century. The interior of the donjon, which
is shown by the concierge, contains little of interest. A small
chamber is pointed out by tradition as the birthplace of William the
Conqueror. The dungeon in which King John Lackland is said to
have confined his nephew Arthur of Brittany is also shown. The top
(to which, however, visitors are now denied access) commands a fine
view, and it was hence, or from one of the windows, that Robert the
Devil is said to have first seen Arlette, the tanner's daughter (see
p. 189), washing linen in the small stream at the foot of the castle
rock. Talbot's Tower contains two vaulted chambers. The breach
through which Henri IV entered the castle is seen at the end of
the disengaged part of the enceinte next the promenade. This
part was formerly defended by a moat.

Returning to the Place St. Gervais, we now descend the main
street to the Bridge, which affords a picturesque view of the lower
town and the castle.

At the suburb of Guibray, beyond the railway, a much-frequented horse-
fair has been held since the 11th cent., lasting from Aug. 10th to Aug. 25th.
The Church is mainly a !Norm an structure of the 11th century. Above the
high-altar is a fine group of the Assumption by an unknown sculptor.

Continuation of Railway to Lb Mans. The first station beyond
Coulibceuf is (29 M.) Fresne-la-Mere. Beyond (35 M.) Montabart
the line to Granville (R. 25) diverges to the right. From (42 M.)
Argentan (p. 185) to (51 M.) Surdon (p. 185) our line coincides
with that from Granville to Paris, from which it diverges to the
right at the latter. To the left are seen the towers of Se'es.

55 M. Sees (Cheval Blanc), a town with 4275 inhab. and the
seat of a bishop, is of ancient origin but has been repeatedly de-
vastated and rebuilt.

The main street leads in a straight line from the station to the
Place de la Cathe'drale, which is embellished with a bronze Statue
of Conte (1756-1805), a local celebrity, by Jules Droz.

The Cathedral is a handsome Gothic edifice of the 13-14th cent-
uries. The W. front is preceded by a porch with a fine iron grille
and is flanked by towers (230 ft. high), the stone spires of which
have been restored. The lofty arches and beautiful triforium of the
nave are supported by round columns. The transepts are lighted
by good rose-windows, and the N. arm contains a fine tympanum
and a modern monument. The choir is remarkable for the extreme
lightness of its construction. An old well, surrounded by a stone
coping, has been discovered to the right of it. The high-altar,
with its two faces, is adorned with bas-reliefs in bronze and marble.
The adjacent panelling is embellished with four fine bas-reliefs of
scenes from the life of the Virgin.

to Le Mans. ALENgON. 26. Route. 191

Beyond Sees the scenery improves. 61 ^2 M. Vimjt-Hanaps, a,
prettily situated village.

68 M. Alencon [Grand Cerf^ de France^ Rue St. Blaise Nos. 13
and 1 ; de la Qare. — Cafe's in the Rue St. Blaise), the chief town
of the department of the Ornc, with 17,840 inhah., is situated at
the confluence of the Sarthe and the Briante. It carries on extensive
manufactures of woollen and linen cloth, and the famous 'Point
d' Alencon' lace is still highly valued. Alencon was repeatedly taken
and retaken in the wars with England and in the time of the League,
and it was occupied by the Germans in 1871 after a slight resistance.
The duchy of Alenyon, created in the 14th cent., was an apanage of
the house of Valois.

The Rue de la Gare, the Rue St. Blaise (containing the Prefec-
ture; 17th cent.), and the Grande Rue lead from the railway-station
to the centre of the town. The church of Notre-Bame , in the
Grande Rue, is a building of Flamboyant Gothic, with a handsome
triple porch flanked by graceful turrets. The gable of the central
bay of the porch contains a group representing the Transfiguration.
The exterior is adorned with balustrades. The most noteworthy
features of the interior are the fine vaulting, the stained-glass
windows (15-16th cent.), the Renaissance organ-loft, the canopied
altar, and the pulpit.

The Rue aux Sieurs, farther on, to the right, leads to the Grain
Market^ a huge circular building, and then passes a large modern
house, with a handsome Renaissance facade, and reaches the Place
d'Armes. Here stand the remains of the old Castle^ now a prison,
consisting mainly of the gateway, flanked with two towers, and of a
third tower of the 14th century.

Adjacent is the Hotel de Ville, a building of the close of the
18th cent., containing a small Musee (open on Sun. and holidays,
1-4, and to strangers at other times also).

Besides objects of natural history (including numerous 'Diamants d'Alen-
con\ i.e. smoky quartz-crystals found in the neighbouring granite-quarries)
the collections comprise a number of paintings and drawings. On the
Staircase : 155. Altar-piece by an Italian Master of the 15th century. — Room
orPOSiTE THE Entrance : 140. Landon, Paul and Virginia; 153. Phil, de Cham-
paignei'O, The Trinity; numerous portraits. — Salle Godard. To the right:
50. GericauH, Shipwrecked; 177. Oudrii, Still-life. To the left: 119. Giroux,
Horses ligliting; 102. Meiniet\ l^&y in the hospital at Innsbruck; 99. Court.,
Charlotte Corday; 166. ColUn, Daphnis and Cbloe; Maillarl, Dr. Dereins;
138. Italian School, Holy Family; J. Leman, Lovers' quarrel; 78. Legros,
Vocation of St. F-rancis. — Grande Salle : 128. Vei/rassat, Watering horses;

1. Jouvenet, Marriage of the Virgin; 149. /. P. Laurens. Duke of Enghien;
126. Legrip., Ph. de Champaigne painting Mme. de la Valliere as a nun;

2. Ph. de Champaigne., Assumption; 35. Blin, Landscajte; 147. Em Adam.,
Christening in Alsace; 125. Gid, Monks labouring; 9. Restout., St. Bernard
and the Duke of Aquitaine; 11. Buat, Due de Berry ; 17. Owwie, Heidelberg
Castle; 105. Court., IS^ymph and faun ; 12. DomenicMno.,'Lo\ ajiA his daughters;
Lansyer.. Autumn in Brittany; 106. Rihera , Bearing of the Cross; 148,
Gautherot, St. Louis in the camp of Mansourah; 134. Courbet., Landscape;
123. Char. Le/ebre., Last Judgment; Lansyer. Breton l:;ndscape; 60. Pala-^
medes, Interior; 167. Lansyer, Rocks at Granville; 56. FrangaiSy Sunset j

1 92 Route 27. CONDE-SUR-NOIREAU. From Caen

O.^La louche, Holy Family, Adoration of the Magi and the Shepherds;
139. Desporles {■>), Animals; 38. L. Duveau, Yi»tic\\m in Brittany; 64. Dutch
School, Judith and Holofernes; 81, 80. Chardin, Still-life; Lavieille, Sum-
mer-night; IQ^, French School, Francis, Duke of Alencon, brother of
Charles IX. ; 8. /. Dumont, St. Francis of Assisi.

The Promenade at the hack of the Hotel de Ville affords a view
of the Church of St. Leonard^ at the end of the Grande Rue, an
edifice of the 15th cent., lately restored. In the interior we may
notice its fine altars, the pulpit, a metal screen, and the modern
stained-glass windows.

From Alencon to I Conde-sur-IIvisne (for Chartres) and to Domfroi\t,
see p. 199.

Beyond Alencon the Le Mans railway crosses the Sarthe. 74 M.
Bourg-le-Boi, with the considerable remains of a 12th cent, castle.
— ll^l^ M. La Hutte-Coulombiers , junction of branch-lines to
(151/2 M.) Mamers (p. 193) and to (18 M.l Sille - le - Guillaume
(p. 204). — The train continues to follow the winding Sarthe, re-
crossing the river. 841/) ]\x. Viuoin-Beaumont. Vivoin, 1/2 M. to the
left of the line, possesses the interesting remains of a church and
convent of the 13th century. The small town of Beaumont-sur-
Sarthe, picturesquely situated on the river, about the same distance
to the right, contains some relics of an old castle. — We again cross
the Sarthe. 97 M. NeuviUe. The train now crosses the Sarthe for
the last time and joins the line from Rennes (R. 28).

104 M. Le Mans, see p. 200.

27, From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne.

97 M. Railway in 5-G3/., hrs. (fares 17 fr. 70, 11 fr. 95, 7 fr. 75 c).
To Domfront, 55 M., in 3-4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 95, 6 fr. 75, 4 fr. 4U c); to
Mayenne, 78 M., in 4-5 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 20, 9 fr. 55, 6 fr. 20 c.)-

Caen^ see p. 166. Our train follows the Cherbourg line (p. 158)
for a short distance, but soon diverges to the left from it and from
the lines to Courseulles (p. 178) and Aunay (Vire; p. 186). It then
ascends the valley of the Orne, crossing that river several times and
passing several small stations. Beyond (26 M.) Clecy the train
crosses the Orne for the last time and passes from its valley into that
of the Noireau by a tunnel upwards of 1 M. long. 28'/2 M. Berjou-
Cahan is the junction of a line to (I872 M.) Falaise (p. 189), which
also leads partly through the valleys of the Noireau and the Orne.

The valley of the Noireau, which we cross repeatedly, is pleas-
antly diversified. 3172 M. Pont-Erambcurg. — 33 M. Conde-sur-
Noireau (Lion d'Or), a manufacturing town with 6663 inhab. and
numerous spinning-factories, was the birthplace of Dumont dUrville
(1790-1842), the distinguished navigator, to whom a bronze statue,
by Molknecht, has been erected here. At (38 M.) Caligni-Cerisy we
join the GranviUe line (p. 186). Beyond (41 M.) Flers (p. 186) we
continue to follow the main line for some time in the direction of Paris,
and then turn to the right. — 44 M. Messei; this station is nearer the

to Laval. MAYENNE. 27. Route. 193

market-town of Messei than that on the Paris railway (p. 18G). The
town contains considerable remains of a castle of the 10th century.
— We now descend the valley of the Varenne, crossing the stream
several times. — As we near Domfront, we have a flne view of the
town to the right.

55 M. Domfront (//of. Larsonneur; du Commerce ^ both cen-
trally situated), an ancient town with 4966 inhab., is picturesquely
situated on a hill rising steeply from the Varenne. Its position made
it one of the chief fortresses of Normandy, audit was repeatedly
besieged in the Hundred Years' War and in the religious contests
of later date. Its military history begins in 1048 with its siege and
capture by William the Conqueror, and ends in 1574, when
Gabriel de Montgomery, the Scottish knight who accidentally killed
Henri II in a tournament (1559) and afterwards became a Hu-
guenot leader, sought refuge here but had to yield to Marshal
Matignon.

It takes ^4 hr. to ascend from the station to the town by road,
but pedestrians may follow short-cuts to the left. The small Church
of Notre-Dame-sur-l' Eau^ dit the base of the hill, near the station, is
a Norman edifice of the 11th century. The Castle (to the left, on
the top of the rock) has been in ruins since the 16th cent., and
little now remains of it except a picturesque corner dominating the
valley. Henry II. of England here received the papal nuncio sent
to reconcile him with Thomas Becket. The ramparts have been con-
verted into a promenade, and command a beautiful view. A street
leads hence to the Hotel de Ville^ a large modern building, and to
the uninteresting Church of St. Julien. Behind these are some well
preserved remains of the Town-Walls.

From Domfront to Alengon, see p. 199. — A branch-line runs to the
W. from Domfront to (1572 M.) Mortain (p. 187). Thence to Avranches,
see p. 187.

Beyond Domfront the railway traverses a district of some inter-
est. 69 M. Amhritres^ with a ruined castle founded by Henry I. of
England. We now reach the banks of the Mayenne^ which we cross
almost immediately.

78 M. Mayenne (Hotel de V Europe^ Rue St. Martin, near the
station; Grand Hotel ^ Grandguillot, on the quay), an ancient cloth-
manufacturing town with 10,300 inhab., is situated on both banks
of the Mayenne., here a wide and navigable stream.

The lordship of Mayenne was advanced to a marqiiisate in favour of
Claude I., Duke of Guise, and in 1573 it vv^as created a duchy and peerage
for Charles of Lorraine, who styled himself henceforth Due de Mayenne.
Its strongly fortilied castle was frequently besieged during the middle ages
and was taken by the English, under the Earl of Salisbury, in 1424.

On quitting the railway-station, we turn first to the right and
then to the left, and descend the Rue St. Martin to the Mayenne,
where we obtain a flne view of the town proper on the opposite
bank, with Notre-Dame and the castle in the foreground. The views
up and down stream are also fine.

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 13

1 94 Route 28. RAMBOUILLET. From Paris

The Church of Notre-Dame (12th cent.) was in great part skil-
fully rebuilt in the original style in lt)68-72. In front is a statue
ot Joan o/" Arc (1896). The Castle^ reached by the streets to the left
beyond the bridge, is now a prison, but part of its enclosure has
been converted into a public promenade,

Behind the Hotel de Ville^ at the upper end of the main street
beginning at the bridge, is a bronze statue of CardinalJean de Che-
verus (1768-1S36), Bishop of Boston (U. S. AO and Montauban and
Archbishop of Bordeaux, who was a native of Mayenne. The statue
itself and the bronze reliefs on the pedestal are by David d'Angers.

Branch-railways nm from Mayenne to (29 M.) Pr4-en-Pail (Alencon;
p. 199) and to (30 M.) La Selle-en-Luitr^ (Fougeres; p. 207). The latter passes
(IS'/'i M.) Eriiee, an industrial town of 5150 inhal)., with a fine chateau of
the 10th century. — Jublains (p. 204) lies about 7 M. to the S.E. of Mayenne.

Farther on we cross a viaduct 78 ft. high. — 82'/2 M. Commer;
861/2 M. Martigne-Ferchaud. At (91 M.) La Chapelle-Anthenaise we
join the line from Paris via Le Mans (R. 28). 94^/2 M. Louverne.

97 M. Laval, see p. 204.

28. From Paris to Eennes.

232 M. Railway (Ghemin de Fer de V Quest), from the Gare Mont-
parnasse (see PI. G, IG ; p. 1) or the Gare St. Lazare (PI. C, 18), in 7-111/2 hrs.
(fares 42 fr., 28 fr. 3o. 18 fr. 55 c.)- — From Paris to Le Mans, 131 M., Rail-
way in 31/2-53/4 hrs. (fares 23 fr. 75, 16 fr. 5, 10 fr. 50 c).

I. From Paris to Chartres.

55 M. Railway in I3/4-2V2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. S5, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 85 c),
from the Gare Montparnasse or the Gare St. Lazare (see above). Comp.
the Map, p. 10 ).

From Paris to (14 M.) St. Cyr, see p. 181. Farther on , the line
to Cherbourg diverges to the right, and we pass, on the same side,
the fort of St. Cyr. — 17'/., M. Trappes. About 3 M. to the S.S.P:.
lie the remains of the ancient Ahhaye de Port-Royal, a favourite
retreat, from 1625 to 1656, of men of learning and religion, around
whom clustered some of the most illustrious younger men of the
day, such as Pascal and Racine. The attachment of the society to
Jansenism led to its dispersion and to the destruction of the con-
vent. — 201/., M. La Verriere ; 24 M. Les Essarts-le-Roi ; 25 M. Le
Perray. We traverse a small wood.

30 M. B-ambouillet (Lion d'Or, Croix Blanche, Rue Nationale,
near the chateau), a town with 6090 inhab., known for its old
chateau, where Francis I. died in 1547. The chateau afterwards
belonged to Charles d'Angennes, husband of the celebrated Marquise
de Rambouillet (d. 1605), and was acquired for the crown by
Louis XVI. Charles X. signed his abdication here in 1830.

The street to the left as we quit the station leads to (5 min.)
the Place de la Foire, whence we may enter the Small Park (see
p. 195).

to Rennes. MAINTENON. 28. Route. 195

The Chateau or Palais National^ reached by the Rue Nationale
and the avenues in the park beyond the ornamental water, consists
of a number of incongruous buildings, surrounding an old crenelated
tower. Neither exterior nor interior is of any special interest.

The great attraction of Rambouilletis the *Parks of the chateau,
which surpass the gardens of Versailles in size, variety, and natural
beauty, and contain many charming and secluded walks. In front
of the chateau is a Parterre, adjoined by the Small Park. The sheet
of water in the latter is diversified by several islets (boat 50 c. per
hr. for each pers.). To the right beyond this lake is the Pare An-
glais, which we reach most directly by skirting the left margin of
the lake and passing through a magnificent avenue of Louisiana
cypresses, said to be unique in Europe. The English Park contains
streams of water, a chalet, and a hermitage. To the right of this
park, to the N.E. of the lake, is a Dairy constructed by Louis XVI.,
with a temple and an artificial grotto. Beyond, at the top of the
avenue, is a Farm, where Napoleon I. kept the first merino sheep
brought from Spain to France. To the right, between the Pare
Anglais and the N. part of the town, lies the Great Park, which
covers 3000 acres and contains numerous avenues of noble trees. —
To the N. of the town extends the Forest of Rambouillet.

At (38 M.) Epernon, a small and ancient town, to the right, an
obelisk has been erected to its defenders in 1870.

43 M. Maintenon (St. Pierre ; de la Gare), a small town on the
Eure, to the right of the railway, possesses a handsome chateau of
the 16-17th cent., from which Fran^oise d'Aubigne, widow of the
poet Scarron, took the title of Marquise de Maintenon on her mar-
riage to Louis XIV. in 1684, at the age of forty-nine. To the right,
beyond the station, are the ruins of the huge Aqueduct begun by
Louis XIV. to conduct the waters of the Eure to his gardens at Ver-
sailles. Upwards of 30,000 men, chiefly soldiers, were employed on
this work from 1684 to 1688, but it was then discontinued owing to
the great mortality among the labourers. Louis XV. used part of
the materials to construct a chateau for Mme. de Pompadour, which,
however, has disappeared. — Branch-lines hence to Dreux (see
p. 182) and to Auneau (p. 267).

Beyond Maintenon the train crosses the valley of the Voise by
a lofty viaduct and ascends the valley of the Eure. AS^/-2 M. Jouy ;
51 M. La Villette-St-Prest. The train crosses the Eure, and the
spires of Chartres now come into sight on the left.

55 M. Chartres. — Hotels. Gkand Monarqoe, r., l., & A. 3V2-5V2,
B. 11/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 10-12, omn. V2 fr. ; de France, R, 3-7, B. 1^
dej. 3, D. 372 fr. ; Ddg de Chartres; all in the Place des Epars (PI. b, c, a;
A, 4, 5) ; DE l"Ouest, near the station, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr.

Cafes. In the Place des Epars ; Boul. Chasles 20; and near the railway
station. — Buffet at the station. — Restmu-ant- Patisserie, Rue de Change 45,
near the cathedral.

Cabs. Per drive ^ji, per hr. 1^/4 fr.

13*

\9Q Route 28. CHARTRES. From Paris

Chartres, the Autricum of the Gauls and now the capital of the
Departement d'Eure-et-Loir, is a town with 23,180 inhab., situated
on the left hank of the Eure.

Chartres, one of the most ancient places in France, is said to have been
founded by the Carnutes (whence Chartres) 6CX) years before the Christ-
ian era, and it was the centre of early Gallic worship and the seat of
the College of Druids. The powerful Counts of Chartres play an impor-
tant part in the history of the gradual development of the French mon-
archy. The city also became the capital of the fertile grain-producing
province of Beauce., and it is still one of the most important corn-markets
in France. Chartres was several times besieged in the Norman, Burgundian,
and religious wars. Henri IV, of Navarre, was crowned king of France
here in 1594. Chartres was occupied by the Germans in 1870, and formed a
nset a\ point d^appui in their operations against the Army of the Loire. It
gives its name to a duchy, held since 16G1 as an apanage of the Orleans family,
but now merely titular. Most of the streets are narrow, steep, and tortuous.

The American visitor will not forget that it is to 'a day at Chartres'
and to the inspiration of its -. — 'Minster's vast repose,

'Silent and gray as forest-leaguered clifl
'Left inland by the Ocean's slow retreat' —
that we owe Mr. Russell Lowell's 'Cathedral'. The pilgrim must be left
to himself to identify the 'pea-green inn' at which the prudent bard 'first
ordered dinner'.

Tlie **Cathedral of Notbe-Dame (PI. B, 3), one of the grandest
Gothic edifices in France, is dedicated to the Virgin, and tradition
avers that it is huilt above a grotto where the Druids celebrated the
worship of a 'maiden who should bear a child'. The oldest part of
the building is the crypt, a relic of an earlier church destroyed by
fire in the 11th century. The rebuilding of the cathedral was under-
taken about 1120, amid great popular enthusiasm, the devout
peasants yoking themselves to carts and dragging materials for the
towers; but a great part of the church was again destroyed by fire
in 1194, and the cathedral in its present form probably dates mainly
from the first half of the 13th century. The principal tower was
almost wholly rebuilt in 1507-14. Its vast dimensions, the huge
blocks of stone employed in its construction, the simplicity of its
design, and the grandeur of its conception combine to invest this
cathedral with an air of the most impressive dignity.

The large *W. Facade, which is somewhat severe in general
aspect, is pierced by three doorways lavishly adorned with sculp-
tures, representing scenes in the life of Jesus Christ, with statues
and statuettes of Prophets, the Elders of the Apocalypse, and other
Biblical characters. Above the doors are three pointed windows,
surmounted by a handsome rose-window, above which again runs
an arcade with sixteen large statues. Over the arcade rises a gable,
containing a figure of the Virgin between two angels and bearing
on its apex a figure of the Saviour. The lower part of this fat^ade
dates from the 12th, the rose-window from the 13th, and the higher
parts from the 13-14th centuries. The statues in the doorways are
stiff and Byzantine in type, with flat faces, short arms, elongated
bodies, and ungraceful drapery. The facade is flanked by two tine

to Rennes. CHARTRES. ^8. Route. 197

*Towers, rising to a height of 350 ft. and 375 ft. The older of the
two, to the S., beautiful as it is, is thrown into the shade by the
richly adorned spire added to the N. tower in 1507-14, which is
described by Fergusson ('History of Architecture') as the most
beautifully designed spire on the continent of Europe, surpassing
those at Strassburg, Vienna, and Antwerp in elegance of outline
and appropriateness of design.

The *Side Portals, which are much more elaborately decorated
than those in the W. front, date from the 13th cent, and are preceded
by porches of the 14th century. The sculptui'es on the N. portal
represent scenes from the life of the Virgin, and those on the S. the
Last Judgment. The noble style of the large statues, the wonderful
expressiveness of the statuettes, the variety and life of the bas-
reliefs, and the finish of the mouldings combine to range these
portals among the most splendid examples of monumental sculp-
ture. The other parts of the exterior of the church are also conspicu-
ous for the originality of their conception and the richness of
their ornamentation. There are two other towers flanking each of the
side-portals and one on each side of the beginning of the apse, but
none of them have been carried above the springing of the roof. —
The Chapelle St. Fiat (16th cent.), adjoining the chevet to the right,
is entered from within the cathedral by a staircase. To the left of
the chevet is the Bishop's Palace (17th cent.).

The "Interior produces a no less imposing effect than the exterior
through the vast and majestic harmony of its proportions and the purity
of its details. It is 428 ft. long, 105 ft. wide across the nave, 150 ft.
across the transepts, and 130 ft. high. The superb "Stained Glass dates
chiefly from the 13th cent., perhaps the finest being that in the three wheel
windows of the W. front, each of which is 36 ft. in diameter. Above
the arches of the nave runs a low triforium-gallery , surmounted by a
lofty clerestory. The wide and lofty windows are either plain single
openings, or are divided into two lights by a mullion of unusual slen-
derness. On the floor of the nave is a curious maze of coloured lines,
called La Lieue , the total length of which is said to be 967 ft. It is
supposed to have served as a penitential path for worshippers, the stations
on it corresponding to the beads of a rosary. Each arm of the transept
has an aisle and is embellished with a rich wheel-windoW above a row
of single-light pointed windows.

The Cfioir and Apse are surrounded by a double ambulatory, and the
latter is adjoined by seven chapels. The 'Wall enclosing the Choir is
adorned with exquisite sculptures ('like point-lace in stone'), begun by
Jean Texier (architect of the N. spire) about 1514 and not finally com-
pleted till two centuries later. At the beginning of the N. choir-aisle is
a Madonna (the 'Vierge du Pilier") of the 15th or 16th cent., which is an
object of great veneration. In the Treasury is shown the Veil of the
Virgin Marij^ said to have been presented to Charlemagne by the Em-
press Irene.

The large Cnjpt, below the choir, contains some mediocre mural
paintings, but is of little interest to the ordinary traveller. It is reached
by a flight of steps adjoining the N. portal. It is open before 9 a.m., but
after that hour those who wish to see it apply at the Maison des Clercs,
to the S. of the choir.

At the corner of the Rue des Changes, to the S. of the cathedral,
is the post-office in a fine 13th Cent. House (PI. B, 4), and in the

198 Route 28. CHARTRES. From Paris

Place de la Poissonnerie, readied thence by the second street on the
left, is a House of the 15th Century. From this point we may follow
the Rue St. Eman (PI. C, 3, 4) and the Rue du Bourg (PI. C, 4) to
the Porte Guillaume (PI. D, 4), an interesting relic of the mediaeval
fortifications of the town. Crossing the moat here and following the
boulevard to the right as far as the first bridge (PI. D, 4), we then
ascend to the church of St. Pierre (PI. C, D, 5), a fine edifice of the
ll-13th centuries. The apsidal chapel contains twelve splendid Li-
moges ^Enamels., by Leonard Limosin (1547), each 2 ft. high and
11 in. wide, brought from the Chateau d'Anet(p. 59) and represent-
ing the Apostles (bell for the custodian on the left).

The Rue St. Pierre leads hence to the N., passing near the
Church of St. Aignan (PI. C, 4), a building of the 13th, 16th, and
17th centuries. A little to the S.W. stands the Hotel de Ville
(PI. B, C, 5), of the 17th cent., containing a small Musee (open on
Sun. & Thurs., 12-4, and shown on application on other days 11-4).

Proceeding towards the W. from the Hotel de Ville, we reach
the expansion of the boulevards called the Place des Epars (PI. A, 5),
in the centre of which rises a bronze statue, by Pre'ault, of General
Marceau (1769-96), a native of Chartres.

The finest part of the boulevards is the Butte des Charbonniers
(PI. A, B, 2, 3), on the N.W. side of the town. To the right, at
this point, are some remains of the old city-walls.

Line from Ronen to Orl^cms via Chartres, see p. 59. — A branch-line
runs from Chartres to (18 M.) Anneau (p. 267).

From Chartkes to Saumur, 123 M., railway in 4V4-GV4 hrs. (fares 19 fr.
30, 14 fr. 95, 9 fr. 75 c.). The line at first traverses an uninteresting plain
and crosses the Enre. — 15V-.; M. Jlliirs, a small town on the Loir. — 23 M.
Brou (Hotel des T7'ois-Maries), a small town on the Ozatine, with important
markets and a Church of the 13th century. — Beyond (32 M.) Arron, the junc-
tion for Nogent-le-Rotrou (see p. 199), we see the chateau of Gourtalain
(I5th cent.) to the left and cross the Yerre by a large viaduct. — 34 M.
Gourtalain- St- Peller in (Buffet) is the junction of a line to Orleans (see
p. 199). The country now becomes more varied. — Beyond (471/2 31.)
Mondoubleau, on the Grenne. with a picturesque ruined castle of the 10-
15th cent., the train descends the valley of the Braiie., crossing the stream
several times. From (53 M.) Sargi' a line runs to (50'/2 M.) Tours (p. 279)
via Ghdteanrenanlt and Vonrratj (p. 266). From (60 M.) Bess^-sur-Bnn/e. a
small industrial town , a line diverges to St. Calais and Connerrc (see
p. 199). — 65 M. Pont-de-Braiie is the junction of the line to Vendome and
Blois (p. 278), traversing the pretty valley of the Loir., which our train
also follows for some time. Konsard, the poet (1524-85), was born at the
manor of La Poissonniire (relics: visitors admitted), 2'/.' M. to the S. —
To the right are the chateau of La Flotte (15th cent.), two other chiiteaux,
and several grottoes. — 71 M. La G/iartre, connected with Lc Mans by a
steam-tramway (see p. 203). 81 M. Glidteau-du-Loir. a small town with
another station on the railway from Le Mans to Tours (p. 204). We now
cross the Loir and quit its valley, of which we obtain a fine view as we
ascend. We then descend into another beautiful valley. — 921/2 M. Ghdteau-
la-Vallih-e. on the Fare, was the caiufal of a duchv which gave title to
Mdlle. de la Valliore (1644-1710), mistress of Louis XIV. Railway from
Chateaurenault to Port-Boulet, see p. 270. — 104 M. Noyant-Mion, junctimi
of a line to Angers (n. 238). — 119 M. Vivii. the junction of a line to La
Fleche (p. 282). — 123 M. Saumur (Gare d'OrUana), the principal s<ation,
1/2 M. from the town proper (see p. 2o6).

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II. From Chartres to Le Mans.

76 M. Railway in 2-31/4 hrs. (fares 14 fr., 9 fr. 35, 6 fr. 10 c.)-
The first station beyond Chartres is (61 Y2 M, from Paris) St-Au-
bin-St-Luperce. At (60 M.) Courville the line approaches the Eure.,
the course of which it now follows, quitting the plains of La Beauce
for the pastures of Le Perche , on which are reared the excellent
draught-horses known as 'Percherons'.

About 5 M. to the S. of Courville, on the road to Illiers (p. 198), is
the extensive and interesting chateau of Villebon , built in the 15th cent,
and restored and altered subsequently. It afterwards came into the pos-
session of Sully, the powerful minister of Henri IV, who died here in 1641.

71 M. Pontgouin; 77 M. La Loupe (Chene-Dore), the junction of
a hranch-line to (24 M.) Verueuil (p. 184) ; 84 M. Bretoncelles. —
87'/-> M. Conde-sur-Huisne (Lion d'Or).

From CoNOfi to Alencon and Uomfkont, 84'/2 M., railway in 5-5'/3 hrs.
This line at first ascends the valley of the Huisne, traversing a hilly dis-
trict. — 18 M. Mortagne (Grand Cerf; Paste; de France)., an ancient but
decaying town with 4277 inhab., possesses a church of the 15-18th cent.,
the tower of which foil in 18'JO. It is an important horse-breeding centre,
and is the junction of lines to Laigle (p. 184), Mamers (see helow), Ste. Gau-
burge (p. 184), etc. — 411/2 M. Alen<jon, see p. 191. Line from Surdon
(Caen) to Le Mans, see pp. 190, 194. — From (54 31.) La Lacdle a diligence
plies to (7'/-2 M.) Carrouges, with a curious chateau (lo-lTth cent.), contain-
in!i a 16th cent, staircase, portraits, and tnpestrv. — The small town of
(59 M.) Pr^-en-Pail is the junction of a line to (2SV2 M.) Mayenne (p. 193).
70 M. Couterite., the junction for La Fertii-Macc and Briouze (see p. Ihfi).
At (76 M.) Juvigiiy-sous-Aiidaiiie is the so-called Phare de Bonvouloir, an
ancient fortified enclosure or watch-tower. — 841/2 M. Bomfront, see p. 193.

Our line now crosses the Hiiisne, the valley of which it descends
all the way to Le Mans.

921/2 M. Nogent-le-Rotrou (Buffet; Hotel du Dauphin), a town
with 8490 inhab,, was the birthplace of Remy-Belleau . the poet
(1528-77), to whom a statue was erected here in 1897. The Castle,
of the ll-15th cent., was once the property of Sully (1560-1641),
minister of Henri IV (comp. p. 399). At the Hotel Dieu is the
handsome tomb of Sully, with marble statues of himself and his
wife, by Boiulin (1642). The church of St. Hilaire dates from the
10th, 13th, and 16th centuries.

Fkom Nogent-le -Rotrou to Orleans (p. 270), 72 M., railway in
41/4 hrs., via (26 M.) Arrou (see p. 198); 28 M. Courtalain-St-Pellerin ; 39 M.
Chdteauduti (p. 267); and (57 M.) Patay (p. 159).

105V2 M. La Ferte- Bernard (St. Jean; Chapeau-Rouge), a small
town to the left, with a fine church in the style of the transition
from Gothic to Renaissance, with curious galleries and elaborate
sculptures. The Hotel de Ville is established in one of the old town-
gates (15th cent.l. — 111 M. Sceaux. — 116 M. Connerre-Beille.

A branch-line runs hence to (-'8 M.) Mamers (Hot. d'Espagne ; Cygne),
a cloth-making town (6000 inhab.), connected by railway with Mortagne
(see above) and with La Hutte- Coulombiers (p. 1!J2). — Conuerre is also
the point of divergence of lines to (331/2 M.) Courtalain (p. 198), and to
(20 M.) St. Calais ( Hdtel de France), a small town with a ruined castle
and an abbey-church of the 14-16th centuries. The last is connected by
a short branch-line with (71/2 M.) Bess4., on the railway from Chartres to
Saumur (p. 198).

200 Route 28. LE MANS. From Paris

We again cross the Huisne. Beyond (120 M.) Pont-de-Gennes-
Montfort and (122V2 M.) St. Mars-la-Briere the train passes through
plantations of pines. 126 M. Yvre-l'Eveqite. The names of these
last stations are all known in connection with the important battle
of Le Mans in 1871 (see below). On the Plateau d'Auvours, above
Yvre'-l'Eveque, are a column commemorating the battle and the
tomb of General Gougeard (d. 1886), one of the French commanders.
There is another commemorative monument in the industrial suburb
of Pontlieue, which our train crosses before entering the station of
(131 M.) Le Mans. To the left diverges the line to Tours. Pontlieue
is a station on the steam-tramway to La Chartre (p. 203).

Le Mans. — Hotels. Grand-Hotel (Boule d'Or), R. 3-6, B. I1/4,
dej 3, D. 3V-2fr.-, Hotel de Fiiance, R., L., & A. 3'/i'-5, B. VU, dej. 8,
1). 31/2 fi-.; Saumox, R., L., & A. 2-3, B. 1, dei. 272, D. 3 fr. incl. \vine-
Du Dauphin; all four in the Place de la Republique (PI. a, b, c, d • B, 3);
Hotel uu Maine (PI. e •, B, 3), Rue des 3Iiuiines 10, R. 2, dei 2V-' D 3 f r •
DE Paris (PL f; B, 5), at the station, R. 2-6, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D 3 fr —
Cafes in the Place de la Republique and the Place des Jacobins. ~ Restau-
rants. Soyez, Place de la Re'publique; Bufet at the railway-station.

Cab with one horse 1V4 fr. per 'course', 1 fr. 80 c. per hr. ; at ni"ht
1 fr. 75 and 2 fr. 25 c. ; with two horses 1 fr. CO. 2 fr. 25 c, 2 fr., 2 fr. 50 c.

Electric Tramways from the Place de la RiprthUqtie (PI. B, 3) to the
Station (PI. A, B, 5), to the Jardin d' Horticulture (Pi. 1), 2, 3), to Pontlieue
(PI. D, 6), etc.: fare 15 c. — Steam- Tramwavs, see p. 203.

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. B, 3), Place de la Rdpublique.

Le Mans, formerly the capital of Maine, and now the chief place
of the Dtpartemcnt de la Sarthe, the headquarters of the IVth Corps
d'Arme'e, and the seat of a bishop, is an ancient town with 60,000 in-
hab., situated on the Sarthe, chietly on a height rising from the left
bank. Le Mans manufactures linen, sail-cloth, wax-candles, and
numerous other articles, and carries on a large trade in poultry.

Le Mans, the ancient capital of the Aulerci- Cenomani , afterwards
occupied and fortified by the Romans, became under Charlemagne one of
the most important cities in the kingdom of the Franks. Taken by Wil-
liam the Conqueror in the 11th cent., it had afterwards, like the towns of
Normandy, many vicissitudes to bear during the Anglo-French wars, and
it is said to have iindergone upwards of twenty sieges. The Vende'ens
were defeated here by General Marceau in 1793; and the victorious troops,
in spite of the ellorts of some of their officers, massacred many thousands
of the unfortunate Royalists in the streets of the town, not even sparing
women and children. In 1871 the Germans under Prince Frederick Charles
defeated the Second Army of the Loire here in a 'week of battles'
(Jan. 10-17th), effectually preventing the attempt to relieve Paris.

Le Mans was the birthplace (in 1133) of Henry IL, the first of the Plan-
tagenet line of English kings.

'Y\\Q Avenue Thiers, a long street of recent construction, leads
from tl\e railway-station to the Prefecture and the church of Notre-
Dame- de-la- Couture, in the centre of the town. In the Square de
la Prefecture is a bronze statue, by Filleul, of Pierre Belon, a phy-
sician and botanist of the 16th century.

Tlie church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Couture [i.e. 'de cultura Dei';
PI. C, 3), dating mainly from tlic 12tli and 14th cent., has a fine W.
front, flanked with two unfinished towers. The *Portal, whicli is pre-

to Rennes. LE MANS. 28. Route. 201

ceded by a porch, is lavishly adorned with sculptures representing
the Last Judgment (tympanum), statues of Apostles, and statuettes
of saints (on the vaulting). The nave, which is in a very primitive
Gothic style, has no aisles and is roofed by domical vaulting, stilted
in the same way as that of St. Maurice at Angers (p. 239). The choir,
which is surrounded by an ambulatory and chapels, is still earlier
than the nave, the end of it being in the Romanesque style. Beneath
it is a crypt. The nave contains the following noteworthy pictures
(named from right to left) : Sleep of Elijah, by Phil, de Cliampaigne ;
Entombment, by G. Zeghers; Abraham and the Angels, by Restout;
Feast of Pentecost, by Van Thulden; Crown of Thorns, by Bart.
Manfredi; St. Veronica, by L. Carracci. Tlie large chapels opening
off the aisles of the choir contain handsome marble altars and altar-
pieces of the 18th cent., and the high-altar is a piece of elaborate
modern work. The Lady Chapel, to the right of the choir, is em-
bellished with good modern stained glass. In the sacristy is preserv-
ed the shroud of St. Bernard, Bishop of Le Mans in the 6th cent.,
made of some Oriental fabric.

The conventual buildings of the Abhaye de la Couture, rebuilt
in the 18th cent., contain the Prefecture (see p. 200) and the mnni-
cipal Museum (open daily, except Mon., 12-4). We enter by tlie
iron gate and the door opposite it.

Tlae first Gallery entered and the Gallery to the left contain objects
of natural history, 27 scenes and portraits from Scarron's 'Rdnian Coniiqne'',
by Conlom (of Le Mans; ca. 1712-16), engravings, pottery, weai>ons, sculp-
tures, Egyptian antiquities, etc. — Room at tlie end, adjoining llie first
gallery. Paintings (from right to left): 305. Tidemand., Norwegian bride's
toilet; 269. Bibera, Christ delivered to the executioner; 226. After Q. Matsys^
St. Jerome; 173. Heeimkerck.^ Alchemist; 353. Unknown Artist., Portrait of
Scan-on, the author; 223. Marilhat, Landscape. — The glass-cases contain
bronzes, antiquities, cameos, medals, enamels, etc. Among these is the
famous '^Enamel of Geofrey Plantagenet (d. 1151), a plaque of Champleve
enamel, 2 ft. high and 1 ft. wide, representing Geoflrey, Count of Anjou,
father of Henry II. of England (see p. 200) and founder of the Plantagenet
line. It originally adorned his tomb in the cathedral. A richly chased
and enamelled knife with the arms of the Dukes of Burgundy; a casket
of the 13th cent.; and the grave-plate of a surgeon of Le Mans in the
16th cent, may also be noticed. — Room to the right: 183. Troyon., Farmer;
297. Sorieul, 272. lloi/er, Battles of Le Mans in 1793 and 1871; 138. L. David,
Portraits ; 333. Moreau de Tours , Blanche of Castille. In the glass-cases
are curiosities and works of art.

Gkande Galerie (from right to left). By the 1st window: Several
Madonnas, by Italian artists, including one by Pervgino (No. 30). — 2nd win-
dow : 39. Baroccio, Entombment, sketch for a painting at Rome. — 3rd win-
dow: 179. Buys/nans, Landscape; 192. Kalf, Still-life. — 4th window: 46. Van
Bloemen., Peasants; 303. Teniers., Tavern; 251. Poussin, Child awakened by
Cupid; above, Fr. Floris, Last Judgment. — Beyond the 5th window:
A. Hesse, Germain Pilon. — At the end: 285. Ulysse Roy., Execution of a
murderer in the 13th century. — Oa the other side: 105. Constable., 74. Corot,
Landscapes; 244. C A'br/e, Waterfall in the Jura; 153. Frangais, Landscape;
141. J. Bvprd, Harvesters; 52. L. Boulogne, Jupiter and Semele; 49. F. Bol,
Child and gout: 61. Bromino., Portrait; 252. Poussin, Rebecca; 57. French
School, Adoration of the Magi; 183. K. duJardin. A magistrate; 311. Valeiitin,
St. John in Patmos ; 312. Valdis L^al, Nun ; 247. Palma Vecchio, Madonna
with SS, -Jerome a,pd Antony; 109. Cuypi^i), Portrait; 218, Attributed to

202 Route 2,9. LE MANS. From Paris

iMini, St. Catharine; 473. Attributed to Rubens^ Portrait; 189. Jouvenet^
Presentation in the Temple; 191. Kalf^ Still-life; 38. Ouercino^ Orpheus
and Eurydice; 220. Lesueur^ Diana hunting: 42. Pietro da Cortona, Re-
conciliation of Jacob andLaban; 84. Caravaggio^ Prodigal Son; 60. Cignani,
Fortune-teller ; 63. Lebrun, Hosannah : 137. Van JJpck, St. Sebastian ; 20. Italian
School, Purification of the Virgin; 110, 111. Jeanet, surnamed Clouet, Por-
traits. On the ceiling: 282. Riss, Assassination of a Russian patriarch (a
large canvas about a yard of which has had to be folded back). To the
right of the door : 45. Bles, St. Christopher.

The Prefecture also contains the Public Library^ open daily,
11-4, excepton Sun., Wed., and holidays. It contains 50,000 printed
volumes and 700 MSS.

The Boulevard Kene-Levasseur leads hence to the Place de
la Republique (PL B, 3), in which stands a *War Monument for
1871 (see p. 200). The statue of General Chanzy, commander of
the Army of the Loire, is hy Crauk; the fine groups of Attack and
Defence are by Croisy.

In this Place are the Bourse and the Tribunal de Commerce,
completed in 1890, and, farther on, the Palais de Justice and the
Church of the Visitation, two 18th cent, buildings, belonging originally
to the Convent of the Visitation. — The Rue Gambetta, which
descends from this point towards the Grand Pont, passes between
the General Hospital (PL A, B, 3), an edifice of the 17th cent., with
a fine chapel, and the Place de I'Eperon (PL B, 3), where upwards of
5000 Vendeens were wounded or slain in 1793 (comp. p. 200).

The Rue Dumas (adjoining the Grand Hotel; PL B, 3) and the
following streets (Rue Marchande, etc.) lead from the Place de la
Republique to the Place des Jacobins (PL C, 2) and the Theatre,
the latter constructed in 1842 on the site of a Gallo-Roman amphi-
theatre and surrounded by tastefully laid out pleasure-grounds.
The basement contains a small Museum of Historical Monuments,
open to the public on Sun., 12-4, and shown on application on other
days also (entr. to the right). Its contents consist of antiquities and
of mediaeval and Renaissance objects of art, including some ancient
vases, pottery, faience, enamels, funereal monuments, an ancient
relief-plan of the town, and a colossal bust of General Ne'grier, a
native of Le Mans, slain at Paris in the insurrection of June, 1848. —
On the W. side of the Place is a modern Tunnel descending to the
Sarthe (see p. 203).

On the W. side of the Place des Jacobins rises the *Cathedral
(PL C, 1, 2), which is dedicated to St. Julian, the traditional founder
of Cenomanian Christianity and the first Bishop of Le Mans
(3rd cent.). The building consists of two distinct parts, diflering
widely from each other: the nave of the ll-12th cent., with some
modifications in the Transitional style: and the choir and transept
rebuilt on an ampler scale in the 13th and following cent., the one
in the early-Gothic style, the other partly in the late-Gothic of the
15th century. In spite of this discrepancy, however, the Cathedral
of Le Mans ranks among the leading churches of France, and the

to Rennes. LE MANS. '28. noute. 203

general effect is one of great noWlity. The W. portal, dating from
the 11th cent., is severe and simple, and is unrelieved hy a tower.
Between two buttresses to the right is a stone supposed to be a
'menhir' or 'long stone'. On the S. side of the nave is a Lateral
Portal in the Transition style of the 12th cent., preceded by a crene-
lated porch, adorned with statues resembling those of the great
portal of Chartres Cathedral (p. 19G). The transept terminates at
each end in a tower, of which the base is Romanesque and the
upper portions of the 15-16th centuries. The soaring apse, with
its girdle of chapels, is one of the most imposing features of the
exterior.

The Interior presents the same striking contrast as the exterior, but
each of the two parts is a line example of its own style. The nave is
divided into tive bays roofed with domical vaulting; the aisles consist of
ten bays, with groined vaulting. The richly ornamented capitals also de-
serve attention. The transept, tlie vaulting of which is loftier than that
of the nave, has an open triforium and a magnificent rose-window (N.arm)
filled with ancient stained glass. The "Choir., with its double ambulatory,
is in the purest Gothic style and is beautified by tine "Stained-Glass Win-
dows of the 13-14th centuries. Among the minor featiires of interest in the
interior are five pieces of tapestry of the 15-16th cent. (N. aisle); the tomb
of Mgr. Bouvier (d. 1854), in the style of the 13th cent. (N. transept); two
Renaissance tombs, in a chapel opposite; the tomb of Queen Berengaria of
Sicily, wife of Richard Cd ur-de-Lion (13th cent.), brought to the cathedral
from the abbey-church of Epau (S. transept); the organ-screen, in the Re-
naissance style; a Holy Sepulchre of 1610, in terracotta, painted and gilded
(chapel adjoining the screen); and the door leading from the ambulatory to
the sacristy, constructed from the fragments of a rood-screen of 1620.

The Hotel du Grabatoire^ a Renaissance building opposite the
cathedral, was formerly the canons' hospital. The Rue des Cha-
noines and the Grande Rue (PI. B, C, 1, 2), to the S. of the cath-
edral, also contain several quaint old houses. No. 11 Grande Rue is
named the House of Queen Berengaria, because it occupies the site
of a mansion said to have been occupied in the 13th cent, by the
widow of Richard Coeur-de-Lion (see above). It contains a small
art-museum (9-11 and 1-5; fee).

Crossing the river by the Pont Yssoir, we next reach the church
of Notre-Dame or St. Julien-du-Pre (PI. R, 1), dating mainly from
the ll-12th cent, and well illustrating the Romanesque style of that
period. Below the choir is a crypt. The N. aisle contains a bas-
relief of the 16th cent., representing a procession. The church is
decorated with modern frescoes, by Andrieux and Jaffard.

About 1/2 M. to the E. of the Place des Jacobins is the Horti-
cultural Garden (PI. D, 2), open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.
and on Tues. when the band plays, and to strangers on other days
on application.

From Le Mans to Angers and to Nantes., see R. 81a; to Alen^on, see R. 28.

From Le Mans to La Chartre, 30 M., steam-tramway in 3 hrs. (fares
3fr., 2fr. 25 c.) via Pontlieue (p. 200), Parign^, Grand-Luc^, etc. — 30 M.
La Chartre, see p. 198.

From Le Mans to St. Denis-d'Orques, 28Vi M., steam-tramway on the
right bank of the Sarthe, with about twenty stations. At (22V2 M.) Loud
this tramway intersects the line from Sill^-le-Guillaume to Sable (see p. 204).

204 Route 28. SILLE-LE-GUILLAUME. From Paris

Fkom Le Mans to Tours, 61 V2 M., railway in 2V2-3V4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 95,
6 fr. 75, 4 fr. 40 c). This line at first coincides for a short distance with
that to Paris, then turns to the S. and traverses the Huisne. At (5 M.)
Arnage we qiiit the valley of the Sarthe. To the right and left are several
chateaux. 23V2 M. Aubigne (Buffet) is the iunction of a hranch-line to
{2OV2 M.) La Fleche (p. 232), ^which passes the small town of (71/2 M.) Le
Lude^ with its handsome chateau of the 15-17th centuries. In the neigh-
hourhood of (26 M.) Vaas^ a large village on the Loir^ are several interest-
ing chateaux and castles. 31 M. C/idteau-du-Loir, also a station on the
line from Chartres to Saumur (p. 198). We now cross the Loir and as-
cend the valley of the Escotais. 44 M. Neuilli- Pont- Pierre^ a small town
1 M. to the right, on the Chateaurenault and Port Boulet line (p. 270).
About 2 M. to the W. of (48V2 M.) St. Antoine-du-Rocher lies Semblan^ay,
with the picturesque ruius of a castle of the 12-lBth centuries. 53V2 M.
Mettray., with a well-known agricultural reformatory for boys. A little
farther on we join the railway from Paris to Tours \ni Vendome (see
p. 267). Beyond (561/2 M.) Fondettes-St-Cyr we cross the Loire and reach
the Nantes railway (R. 31b). — 61 V2 M. Tours, see p. 279.

III. From Le Mans to Eennes.

101 M. Railway in 3-43/i hrs. (fares 18 fr. 45, 12 fr. 50, 8 fr 10 c).

On leaving Le Mans we cross the Sarthe and o"btain a fine view
of the town to the right. The line to Angers (R. 31a) runs to the
left, and the line to Alen^.on (K. 20) diverges to the right, farther
on. — 138'/2M. (from Paris) La Milesse-la-Bazoge; 144 M. Dom-
front; 146 M. Conlie; 149 '/oM. Crisse.

1531/2 M. Sille-le-Guillaume (De Bretagne, dej. or D. 21/0 fr.),
a town with 3152inhah., possesses a ruined castle of the 15th cent.,
the keep of which is 125 ft. high, and a Gothic church with a beau-
tiful portal of the 13th cent., and a large crypt of the 12th. The
castle was several times taken by the English.

A branch-railway runs hence to (18 M.) La Htttte-Covlombiers (p. 192),
pas'jing (14 M.) Fresn ay- sur- Sarthe (C'lievaHer). a small town on a steep,
rocky hill, with a ruined castle and a church in the Transitional style.

Another branch-line leads via (IS'/a M.) Loui (tramway to Le Mans,
see p. 203), and (20 M.) Bvaion to (32V2M.) Sab'.i (p. 232).

168 M. Evron (Aigle d'Or), a small town with an interesting
church (ll-14th cent.). Part of the rich ornamentation of the interior
refers to a miracle attributed to some of the 'Milk of the Mailonna',
brought from the Holy Land by a pilgrim, and now preserved in the
church. The timber Market Buildings date from the 14th century.

From Evron an omnibus runs to Jublains (H6i. de POnest), a village
9 M. to the 2v^.W., occupying the site of the Roman Neodunuin .^ of which
considerable remains still exist. The most notable of these is the Castelliim.
or fort, the walls of which , strengthened by round and square towers,
are standing up to a height of about 15 ft. — The omnibus goes on to
(7 M.) Mayenne (p. 193).

Aiiotlier omnibus plies to Ste. Suzanne (Lioii d'Or), an old town
41/2 M. to the S. of Evron, with an ancient fortified wall and a ruined
chatenu.

180 M. La (Itapelle-Anthenaise, the junction of a line to Caen
via Flers, Domfront, and Mayenne (see R. 27).

186 V2 M. Laval {Buffet;' Hotels de I' Guest, de Paris, Rue de la
Paix), the capital of the department of the Mayenne and the seat

to Rennes. LAVAL. 28. Route. 205

of abisliop, is a busy town with 29,850 inhab., situated on the
- river Mayenne. For 500 years it has been the centre of an active
manufacture of linen, now chiefly producing tickings. The marble
found in the neighbourhood is sawn or made into lime here. Laval
was taken by Talbot in 1428, and changed hands several times
during the wars of the League and La Vendee.

The ancient part of the town, rising in tiers on the right bank
of the river and dominated by the cathedral and the castle, pre-
sents a very picturesque aspect as seen from the railway-viaduct
(see p. 206) or from the bridge. Its streets, however, are narrow and
irregular. To reach it we follow the Rue de la Gare and the Rue de
la Paix, crossing the river by the Pont-Neuf. Beyond the bridge
we reach the Place de THotel-de-Ville, embellished with a bronze
statue, by David d'Angers, of Amhroise Pare, styled the 'Father of
French Surgery', who was born near Laval about 1510.

Thence the Rue de I'Hotel-de-Ville leads to the left to the Castle,
which consists of two parts, the 'Old' and the 'New'. The Old Castle^
a sombre-looking edifice now transformed into a prison, is seen to
most advantage from the Rue du Val-de-Mayenne, near the river.
Visitors are admitted (on application at the Prefecture, Rue des
Trois-Croix) to the court, to the interesting donjon (12th cent.),
with its fine timber-roof, and to the chapel (11th cent.). The New
Castle dates partly from the Renaissance period and is now the
court-house.

The Cathedral, an unimposing and irregular building of the
12th and 16th cent., was finally freed from the neighbouring build-
ings in 1889. The Romanesque W. portal is modern; but the S.
portal, with its unfinished tower, also Romanesque, and the Renais-
sance N. portal are ancient. The interior is more interesting than
the exterior. The oldest part is the transept (12th cent.). The
choir (16th cent.) has five radiating chapels.

To the S.W. of the cathedral stands the Porte Beucheresse, one
of the old town-gates, in the Gothic style, flanked by two towers. —
The Rue Marmoreau descends hence to the Place de Herce, in which
are the Galerle de VIndustrie (18th cent.) and the Musee des Beaux
Arts, built in 1891-96 and containing a small collection of paint-
ings, by Flandrin, Isahey, Lenepveu, Melssonier, etc.

In the Place de la Bibliotheque, between the cathedral and the
Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, stands the Museum, containing the public
library and a small archaeological collection. — To the left, in the
Rue Joinville, which begins at the Place de IHotel-de-Ville, is the
church of Notre-Dame, a structure of the 14-15th cent., containing
several fine marble altars of the 17th century.

Below the Pont Neuf is the Pont Vieux, or Pont de Mayenne, a
Gothic structure of the 14th cent., 1/2 M. from which is the beau-
tiful 12th cent, church of Notre-Dame-d'Avenieres, with a spire of
1534 and a handsome modern pulpit. — In the Rue du Pont-de-

206 Route 28. VITR]^. From Paris

Mayenne, beyond the bridge, rises the 15th cent, church of St.
Venerand^ with double aisles.

From Laval a branch-line runs to (20 M.) Gennes- Longuefuye (Sable,
Angers; p. 232), via (IS'/'i M.) Meslay, vphence a visit may be paid to the
stalactite caves (adm. 1 fr.) of Saulges (Hot. des Grottes). — From Laval
to Mayenne^ Domfront, Flers, and Caen., see R. 27.

FiiOM Laval to Chateaubriant, 48 M., in 21/3-3 hrs. (8 fr. 60, 5 fr. 80,
3 fr. 80 c.). — 13I/-2 M. Cosse-le- Vivien (2930inhab.). — 23 M. Craon (Momver),
with 4250 inhab., oa the Oudon, has a fine 18th cent, chateau. Branch to
Chemaze , see p. 284. — At (38 31.) Foucmce a branch diverges to Segre
(p. 234). — 48 M. Chdleaubriant, see p. 234.

In leaving Laval the train crosses the valley of the Mayenne by
a lofty granite viaduct (92ft. high), which affords a fine view of the
town to the left. — Beyond (192 M.) Le Genest we have a view to
the right of the interesting old Abbey of Clermont, founded in 1150
and now converted into a chateau. The abbey-church contains some
magnificent monuments of the Sires de Laval, dating from the
14-15th centuries.

209 M. Vitre {^ Hotel des Voyageurs, ^Hotel de France, both near
the railway-station), an ancient town with 10,600 inhab., is pictur-
esquely situated on the left bank of the Vilaine. It still retains
some portions ofits former fortifications, a ruined castle, and numer-
ous quaint mediajval houses, and is in many respects one of the
most interesting towns in France. Vitre early embraced the Pro-
testant doctrines, and the Huguenots successfully defended them-
selves here against the army of the League in 1589.

On leaving the railway-station, we proceed at first to the left
and, beyond one of the towers of the old fortifications, turn to the
right by the Rue Beaudrairie, wliich passes farther on between the
Rue d'Embas and the Rue Poterie. These streets are the most quaint
and picturesque in the town, exhibiting a singular array of old and
sombre-looking houses of timber or stone, with galleries, sculptured
ornamentation, balconies, and porches of the most varied descrip-
tion. In some cases the upper stories project over the foot-pave-
ment so as to form covered arcades resembling those at Berne and
not unlike the 'Rows' at Chester.

In the Place du Chatelet, to the left of the Rue Beaudrairie, is
the remarkable entrance-gateway of the Castle, an imposing brown
edifice, dating mainly from the 14-15th centuries. The present re-
mains consist of the outer wall, strengthened with machicholated
towers, and of the massive donjon, lately restored. Part of the inter-
ior has been converted into a prison, but visitors are admitted to
the rest on application to the gate-keeper. The Public Museum and
Library are established in the donjon-tower. The castle belonged
to the Seigneurs de la Tre'moille, whose motto ('post tenebras spero
lucem'), above the gateway, is supposed to refer to their attachment
to the Reformed faith.

The Church of Notre -Dame, in the upper part of the town,
reached from the Place du Chatelet via the Rue de Notre-Dame, is

to Rennes. FOUGfeRES. 28. Route. 207

a handsome Gothic edifice of the 15-16th cent,, with a stone spire,
recently rebuilt, above the crossing. On the outside, to the right, is
a fine pulpit of the 16th cent., bearing a symbol of the Trinity, in
the form of a head with three faces.

The chief treasure of the interior is the "Triptych in the chapel to the
right of the entrance to the choir, dating from 1544 and consisting of
thirty-two Limoges enamels depicting scenes from the New Testament.
Among the other objects of interest are the two marble holy-water basins,
the modern pulpit, the stained-glass windows (all modern, except one of
the Renaissance period in the S. aisle), a modern tomb on the N. side of
the choir, and two tombs of the 15th cent., one in the Lady Chapel and
one in the first chapel to the left.

The Rue de Notre-Dame leads to the Place MarcMx^ with various
public buildings, beyond which are the Boulevard du Mail (see
below) and the Place de la Halle, which contains several picturesque
old houses, with lean-to roofs and outside staircases. Here also
stands a round tower, forming a relic of the old fortifications. The
street to the left of the tower leads straight back to the station.

We, however, follow the Boulevard du Mail, in order to view
the town from its most picturesque side, where the Ramparts are
still in existence. Turning to the left into the Promenade da Val, we
have a fine view of the castle, a little beyond whi(;h we regain the
station.

About 4 M. to the S. of Vitre, and 27-2 M. to the N. of Argentre (p. 208),
is the Chateau des Rochers , a mansion of the 15th cent. , where Mme.
de Sevigne frequently resided. It contains a gallery of portraits of the
17th cent., including one of Mme. de Sevigne by Mignard , and various
souvenirs of the same period. Ennuiric as to admission should be made
in Vitre. — About 51/2 M. to the W.N.W. of Vitre is Champeaux, with an
interesting church of the 16th cent, and a ruined chateau of the 14th.

From Vitre to Pontorson (Mont St. Michel), 49 M., railway in 3-3^/2 hrs.
(fares 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c). The train passes in full view of the
castle of Vitre (to the right), crosses the Vilaine, and ascends to the N.
through the picturesque valley of its affluent, the Canlache. — 12 M. Chd-
tilloii-en-Vendelais. To the left is a small lake. 191/2 M. La Selle-en-
Luitre, the junction of a branch-line to Mayenne (p. 193).

23 M. Fougeres {Str Jacques, Des Voyageurs, both in the upper part of
the town: de la Gave, unpretending), a busy town of 20,735 inhab., with
large shoe -making factories, picturesquely situated on the small river
Nangon, is still partly surrounded by its ancient fortifications and possesses
a feudal castle of great extent and importance. Both castle and town were
taken by the English in 1166 and in 1449 and underwent numerous other
sieges. Fougeres was also the scene of important contests during the Ven-
deen war of 1793.

The modern quarter of the town adjoining the railway-station gives
no idea of the picturesque appearance of the town proper on the oppo-
site side. The avenue to the right, as we leave the station, ascends to
the Place d'Armes. To the left is the Place du Marche, with an equestrian
statu'-, of General de la Riboisiere (1759-1812), by G. Recipon (1893). The
Rue Rallier leads thence to the Rue Rationale, in which are some old
houses resembling those at Vitre, and, farther on, the Church of St. Leonard
(15-17th cent.), with a modern portal and a Flamboyant rose-window. In
the interior are six large paintings by Eug. Deveria and a war-monument
for 1870. — In the opposite direction the Rue Rationale leads to a small
square containing the Theatre. We descend to the right by the old Rue
de la Pinterie and the Rue de la Fourchette (left) to the Forte St. Sulpice,
an old town-gateway (15th cent.), adjoining the wall of the castle. It is

208 Route 28. RENNES. Hotels.

most picturesque wlien viewed from tlie outside, and commands a good
view of the upper town. A little farther on is the Church of Si. Sulpice,
of the 15-18th cent., containing some wood-carving of the 17th and 18th cent.,
a line ciborium, a kind of altar-piece in granite (in a chapel off the S. aisle),
and an ancient statue of the Virgin. — The Castle, commandingly situated
on a rocky height overlooking the town, dates from the 12-16th cent.,
and presents a picturesque and imposing appearance, with its eleven bat-
tlemented towers. The ruins are now being restored. — A branch-line
runs from Fougeres to St. Hilaire (p. 187).

In leaving Fougeres the irain passes through a short tunnel below the
town. 42V2 M. Antrain ('inter amnes'), at the confluence of the Oysance
and the Couesnon. — 49 M. Poniorson , see p. 227. — Thence to Mont St.
Michel, see p. 227.

Another, branch-line runs from Vitr: to (25i/2 M.) Martigni-Fei'chaud
(see p. 194; for Chateaubriant and Nantes). The most important inter-
mediate stations ai-e (7 M.) Argentri, with a chateau of the 15th cent.,
21/2 M. to the S. of the Chateau des Eochers (p. 207), and (15V2 M.) La
Guerche-de-Bretayne, a town of 4'j65 inhab , -with an interesting collegiate
church, part of which dates from the 13th century.

Beyond Vitre our line descends the valley of the Vilaine, diverg-
ing to the left from the line to I'ontorson (see al)ove), and passing
several small stations. — 232 M. Rennes (Buffet).

B-ennes. — Hotels. *Grand Hotel (PI. a; A, 3), Rue de la Monnaie 17;
HoTicL DE France (PI. b; B, 2), No. 6 in the same street, R. 2V2-7, B. I'/j,
dej. 3, D. 3'/'j fr. ; Continental (Pl.c; B,3), Rue d'Orlcans; Moukrne (Pl.d;
A, B, 3), Quai Lamcnnais 17, new; dv Bout-du-Monue , Rue St. Michel
(PI. B, 2); D e Bretagne, opposite the railway-station, R. 2-5, B. ^/j, dej. 2,
D. 2V2 fr. ; Parisien, same place to the right, a good second-class house;
DES Votageurs, Avenue de la Gare 20, unpretending.

Cafes. Gi^and Cafi, Cafi de France, Rue de la Monnaie; de la Comidie,
Cafe. Glacier, des Fleurs, at the theatre; de la Paix, at the Palais du Com-
merce (p. 210) ; dti Palais, de V Europe, on the quay. — Brasserie du Coq-
d''Or, at the back of the theatre. — Cafi-Concert de V Alcazar, Rue du
Champ-Jacquet (PI. B, 2).

Cabs. Per course IV4, per hr. IV4 fr. ; at night IV2 and 2V2 fr.

Electric Tramways (all passing the Place de la Mairie; PI. B, 3). 1. From
the Station (PI. D, 5) to the Faubourg de Foughres (PI. I), 1). 2. From the
Avenue de la Gare (PI. D, 4) to the Cimetih'e du^Xord (PI. B, 1). 3. From
the Avemte de la Tour-d'Auvergne (comp. PI. A, 3) to the Octroi de Paris
(comp. PI. D, 2). 4. From the Mail (PI. A, 3) to thrf Croix-St-Helier (comp.
PI. D, 4). Fares 10c. from any terminus to the Place de la Mairie, 15c.
beyond that point. — Departmental Tramways (comp. the Plan) to (14 31.)
St. Aubin-du-Cormier and (30 31.) Foughres (p. 207) on the N.E.; to (22 M.)
Plilan, on the S.W. ; to (10 M.) Chdteaugiron, on the S.E. ; and to (15 M.)
Hidi and Miniac-Morian (p. 181), on the N.E.

Post Office (PI. B, 3), at the Palais du Commerce.

United States Consular Agent, Mons. Ernest Folliard.

Rennes, the ancient capital oi Brittany, and now the chief town
of the department of Ille- et- Vilaine , the headquarters of the
Xth Corps d'Arme'e, and the seat of an archbishop and of a univer-
sity, is a town of 69,030 inhab., situated at the confluence of the
canalized Ille and the Vilaine. Few traces of its ancient importance
remain , as nearly the whole of the town was burned down in 1720
by a conflagration that lasted for seven days, and since then it has
been rebuilt on a regular and monotonous plan. It has now little
industry or commerce, and its spacious modern streets are gen-
erally dull, lifeless, and deserted.

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Museum. RENNES. 28. Route. 209

Rennes, the capital of the Redones, one of the Celtic trihes inhabiting
the Armorican Peninsula^ was formerly called Condate (whence Conde) and
became a place of some importance under the Romans. At a later date
it retained its importance as the capital of the Duchy of Brittany, down
to the time when the duchy paf^sed to France through the marriage of
Anne of Brittany, first to Charles VIII. in 1491, and secondly to Louis XII.
in 1499. Rennes was one of the centres of the Republican army in the
Vendean struggle of 1793.

A well-'built modern quarter lies between tlie railway-station
and the town proper on the left hank of the Vilaine. To the left of
the Avenue de la Gare is the spacious Champ-de-'Mars (PI. C, 4), with
the departmental War Monument for 1870. At the foot of the
Avenue stands the Lyceum (PI. C, 3), an imposing structure in the
style of the 17th cent., with a handsome chapel. It occupies the
site of a Jesuit college, of which the only relic now left is the EyUse
Toussaints (PI. 0, 3), a little behind the university. Farther on, on
the quay, is the Palais Vniversitaire ^ another imposing modern
edifice, partly occupied by the *Musee (PI. C, 3), which includes
various scientific collections and one of the finest provincial picture
galleries in France (open on Sun. & Thurs., from 12 to 4 or 5, and
to strangers on other days also). The principal entrance faces the
quay, but on the days when the museum is not open to the public
we enter by the back.

Ground-Floor. — Sculptures. In the middle and from right to left:
Barrias, Last funeral ; Blanchard, Bathsheba ; Falguihre., Woman and pea-
cock; Longepied, Immortality; Falguih'e^ Diana; 107. Quinton^ Defence of
the country; 10. Boisseau, Grenius of Evil; 11. Capiier., Hebe; Pech, Guido
of Arezzo; St. Marceaux., Vine; Millet., George Sand; 105. Dolivet., Magda-
len; MerciS, David; Esconla., Spring. By the walls, to the right of the en-
trance: Marochetti, Casta of figures from the tomb of Mme. de la Riboisiere
in Paris; Barri, Mary Magdalen; 48. Bolivet., Mignon; 23. Z«nwo,- Noah; 44.
Barri ., Graziella; David d' Angers.^ Philopoemen; 74. Quinton., Death of
Diagoras; 5, 4 (farther on), Co//zevox , Bronze bas-reliefs from the old
monument of Louis XIV. in the Place du Palais (p. 210), representing France
triumphant at sea and Brittany offering the design of the statue to the
king; David d' Angers., Bust of Lamennais; 22. Lanno., Lesbia; 26. Travaux.,
Day-dream ; 25. Thomas., Thought; 64. Lanno., Samson ; 27. Florentine Master.,
Girl caressing a greyhound; 24. Molknecht., Colossal statue of Louis XVI.;
106. Leofanti., Pro Patria. — The galleries beyond thia room contain the
Natural History Collections.

First Floor. — Pictures. The staircase and Room I contain Engravings
and Drawings. Room II, at the end , to the left, contains several modern
French works: 264. CI. Jacqvand.^ The Count of Cominges recognizing
Adelaide; 863. T. Abraham., Landscape; 378. M. Roy., The beggars' part.

Room III. To the right: *84. De Cra?jei\ Raising of the Cross; 21. Gior-
dano., Martyrdom of St. Lawrence; 251. Ferdinand (of Rennes), Presenta-
tion of the Virgin. — 294 (easel), Honthorst, Betting; 271. Jouvenet, Christ
in the garden; 38. Ricci., St. Farbara; 31. Bai'sano., Penelope; 23. Por-
denone(1), Totila, King of the Ostrogoths, visiting St. Benedict; 105. Van
Kessel, Noah's Ark; 15. L. Carracci, St. Philip; 104. Van Kessel, Terrestrial
paradise; 85. De Craj/er., Eaising of Lazarus; 293. Monnoyer, Flowers and
fruit; -101. Honthorst, Denial of St. Peter; 329. French School, St. Peter.—
4. Guercino, Pieta ; 142. Sandrart, Holy Family, with landscape. — 89. Van
Dijekil), Holy Family; '103. Jordaens, Crucifixion; 102. Huysmans., Land-
scape; 95. Sir Peter Lely, Charles I. as a child and the Earl of Arundel;
17, Cerquozzi., Fruit and flowers; 81. Philip de Champaigne, Penitent Mag-
dalen; 139. Rubens (?) and Snyders, Lion and tiger hunt; *10. Paolo Veronese,

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 14

210 Route 28. RENNES. Palais de Justice,

Perseus delivering Andromeda; 110. Loth, Woman taken in adultery; 144.
Schwartz, Crucifixion ; 184. German School, Still-life.

Room IV, No. 165. Woiiwerman, Horse-fair; 29. Palomino de Velasco,
Vision of St. Antony; 150. Swanevelt, Landscape; 13. Ann. Carracci, Repose
in Egypt; 137. Pourhus the Younger, Charron, the author; 292. Monnoyer,
Vase and flowers ; 296. LeNain, The new-born child; 146. ^Sreyders, Wounded
dog; 143. Schoewaerdts, Landscape; 311. Quesnel, Portrait; 255. Claude Lor-
rain. Landscape; 212. Bon Boulogne, Children and birds; 221. Casanova,
Destruction of a bridge (3 other paintings of this series farther on); 253.
Ch. de la Fosse, Iphigenia; 30. /. de Arellano, Flowers; 34. Guido RetiiCi),
Assumption ; 141. S. van Ruysdael (?J, Landscape ; 135. P. Neeffs the Elder.,
Interior; 87. Decker ("i) , Landscape; 305. Poussin, Ruins of a triumphal
arch. — Ant. Coi/pel, 239. Venus bringing arms to ^Eneas, 240. .Jupiter and
Juno upon Mt. Ida; 282. Van Loo, Portrait; 168. Wynants, Landscape; 111.
Maas, A magistrate; 96. Franck the Younger, Jesus at the bouse of Simon;
132. W. van Mieris, Lady at her toilette; 162. Vnchel, Man listening to a
woman who robs him; 153. Teniers the Younger, Tavern; 164. /. Wildens,
Landscape; 134. Mytens, Fete; '159. Van Tol, Dutch interior; 109. Leermans,
Trumpeter and maid-servant; 297. Le Nain, Madonna, St. Anne, the Holy
Child, and angels; *237. Jean Cousin (i), Jesus at the marriage in Cana of
Galilee, a large painting from the church of St. Gervais , at Paris;
76. Brouwer, Topers in a barn; 99. Van Herp, 'La Vierge au chardonneret'
(goldfinch); 73. J. van der Bent, 133. Moucheron, Landscapes. — *161. Heems-
kerck(Van Veen), St. Luke painting the Virgin. — Sculptnres: Dubois, Floren-
tine singer; Delaplanche, Dancing and Music; Moreau-Vauthier, Fortune.

Room V. No. 331. French School, Ball at the court of the Valois; no
number, Livy, Death of John the Baptist; 325. CI. Vignon, St. Catharine;
216, 217. Calloti'i), 80. '■Velvef Brueghel, Landscapes; no number, Restout,
Orpheus ; 14. L. Carracci, Martyrdom of St. Peter and of St. Paul ; 276.
Lebrun, Descent from the Cross; 238. N. Goypei, Resurrection; 242. Des-
portes. Wolf-hunt; 213. L. Boulogne, The Woman with an issue of blood;
39. Tintoretto, Massacre of the Innocents; 298. Natoire, St. Stephen.

Room VI contains nothing of importance. The door of the staircase
to the 2nd floor opens here.

Room VII. No. 326 (above the door), Voillemot, Velleda; 233. Chaigneau,
Forest of Fontainebleau; no number, Bourgogne, Gifts of autumn. — 234.
Couder, Tanneguy-Duchatel carrying off the Dauphin (Charles VIII.) from
Vincennes to save him from the attacks of the Duke of Burgundy (1418);
260. Guirin, Ulysses exposed to the wrath of Neptune; 275. Lansyer, Land-
scape. — 208. Blin (of Renne?), Landscape; 262. Guillemot, Sappho and
Phaon; 295. Mouchot, Bazaar at Cairn; no number, Feyen-Perrin, Sleeping
nymph; 207. Blin, Landscape; 196. Abel de Pujol, Naomi and Ruth.

The Second Floor is devoted to the Arch^ological Museum, com-
prising vases, medals, arms, casts of ancient gems and other precious
objects found in the district, and various other antiquities. There are
also several paintings of the early Italian school, including a triptych
ascribed to Giotto , and a representation of Death said to be painted by
King Rene of Anjou. A small room contains a ceramic collection.

At the end of the Quai de TUniversite', to the left, rises the
Chamber of Commerce., a large structure in the Renaissance style,
only partly completed. In front is a Statue of Bastard, maire and
benefactor of Rennes.

The Pont de Berlin, to the right of the Quai de I'Universite', and
the street forming its continuation lead to the Place du Palais
(PI. B, C, 2, 3), one of the principal open spaces of the town. It
contains a fine fountain.

On the N. side of this Place stands the Palais de Justice (PI.
C, 2), or court-house, the finest secular edifice in Rennes, erected
in 1618-54, by Jacques Debrosse, the architect of the Luxembourg,

Cathedral. RENNES. 28. Route. 211

for the Parlement of Brittany. The somewhat heavy facade is pre-
ceded by statues of D'Argentre' (1519-46), La Chalotais (1701-85),
Gerhier (1725-88), and TouUier (1752-1835), four eminent lawyers
of Brittany. Several of the rooms iu the interior are adorned with
paintings by Coypel, Jouvenet, Gosse, Jobe-Duval, and other well
known artists.

To the S.W. of the Place du Palais lies the Place de la Mairie
(PL B, 3), the centre of the tramway-system (p. 208), with the Hotel
de Ville and the theatre. The Hotel de Ville^ rebuilt by Gabriel, the
architect of Louis XV., after the great lire of 1720 (p. 208), is in
the form of a semicircle between two pavilions and is surmounted
by a tower ending in a bulbous dome. The Theatre (PI. B, C, 3),
dating from 1835, is also in a semicircular form, but presents its
convex side to the Place. The fagade is surmounted by figures of
Apollo and the Muses. The colonnade surrounding the building
contains cafe's and attractive shops. — To the N. of the Hotel de
Ville is the Library^ with 80,000 vols, and several interesting MSS.

The street to the N. of the Hotel de Ville leads to the church of
St. Sauveur (PL B, 3), an uninteresting building of the 18th cent.,
containing a canopied high-altar, a handsome pulpit, a bas-relief of
the marriage of the Virgin (altar on the S.), statues of SS. Peter
and Paul, good modern stained glass, a few old paintings, and other
works of art.

A little farther on rises the Cathedral (PL A, 3), a building of
ancient foundation but dating in its present form mainly from the
19th century. The fagade is in the classical style. The interior, which
is scarcely ecclesiastical in style, is richly adorned with paintings by
Le Henaff and Jobe-Duval. The last chapel in the S. aisle contains
a fine altar-piece, in carved and painted wood, executed in the
15th century. In the N. arm of the transept is a monument, by
Valentin, erected in 1883 to Cardinal St. Marc (1803-78).

In the lane opposite the cathedral rises the Porte Mordelaise
(PL A, 3), an interesting relic of the mediaeval fortifications of the
town (15th cent.), surrounded by old houses. Through this gate the
Dukes of Brittany and Bishops of Rennes made their formal entries
into the town.

A little to the right, farther on, is the Church of St. Stephen (PI. A, 2),
of the 17th cent., containing several statues by Barr^, stained-glass win-
dows by Lavergne, and a painting by Jourjon.

We now follow the Rue de la Monnaie (PL A, 3, B, 2), towards
the E. The fourth turning on the left brings us to a small square
with a bronze statue, by D olivet, of Leperdrit., maire of Rennes dur-
ing the Terror, who had the courage to resist the ferocious Carrier
(p. 246). Farther to the N. is the large unfinished modern Gothic
church of Notre-Dame-de-Bonne-Nouvelle (PL B, 2), whence the Rue
St. Melaine leads to the E. to the church of Notre-Dame-en- Saint-
Melaine (PL D, 2), an abbey-church of the ll-13th cent., with a
tower surmounted by a modern statue of the Virgin. The chief

,4*

212 Route 28. RENNES.

o"bjects of interest in the interior are the handsome monument by
Valentin (near the entrance), the Gothic high-altar, and the choir
screen in carved wood, all modern.

A little farther on, to the right, is the Thabor (PI. D, 2), part of the
garden of the former Abbey de St. Melaine, and now the chief open-air
resort of Rennes; it is embellished with a figure of Liberty and with a
statue of Duguesclin, who was born near Rennes in 1314 or 1320. On the
E. this promenade is adjoined by the Jardin des Flantes (PI. D, 2), which
is open to the public and affords extensive views.

From the Place St. Melaine we return by the Contour de la Motte,
passing the modern Chapzlle des Missionaires ^ the Prefecture^ and
the Motte ^ a promenade upon an ancient moat-hill. The Rue Victor-
Hugo leads thence to the right to the Place du Palais, while the
Rue Gambetta descends straight to the Vilaine, which it reaches
beside the Vniversite (PL C, D, 3), a handsome new stone building.
On the opposite bank begins the Avenue de la Gare (p. 209).

A walk may be taken, on the left bank of the Vilaine, to the Chateau
de la Pr6valaye^ famous for it-^ butter (2 M. to the S.E. of Rennes).

From Rennes to St. Malo, Mont St. Michel^ Dinan., etc., see R. SO. —
A branch-line also runs to (38 M.) Ghdteaubriant (see p. 231; for Angers),
joining the line from Vitre (p. 208) at (29 M.) Martigni-Ferchaud. About
2 M. to the N.E. of the station of (21 BI.) Retiers lies Essi , with a large
dolmen or 'Allee Couverte' named the Roche aux Fies.

From Rennes to Redon, 441/2 M., railway in i^/i-2'^/i hrs. (fares 8 fr. 5,
5 fr. 45, 3 fr. 55 c). — The valley of the Vilaine, which this line follows
more or less all the way to Redon, crossing repeatedly from one bank to
the other, affords numerous picturesque views of wooded hills and rocky
summits surmounted by castles and chateaux. — At (23 M.) Messnc our
line is joined by one from Chateaubriant (p. 234), which is to be continued
to Ploermel (p. 2')4). We now cross a viaduct 70 ft. high and traverse a
tunnel 1/2 M. long. 32V2 M. Besli. The train passes through a marshy
district, crossing the Lac de Morin. At (3G M.) Massirac we join the line
from Chateaubriant and Segre (p. 234). 40 M. Avessac. To the left runs
the railway to Nantes. — 441/2 M. Redon, see p. 253.

29. From Rennes (Paris) to Brest.

155 M. Railway in 51/2-71/2 hrs. (fares 2S fr. 10 c, 10 fr., 12 fr. 40 c).

The ancient duchy of Bretagne or Brittany, 'pays de granit, reconvert
de chenes\ forming the extreme N.W. corner of France, still differs in
many important respects from the rest of the country. The inhabitants
are of pure Celtic race and their native tongue is akin to Welsh. In
upper or E Brittany this language has to a great extent given place to
French, but upwards of a million inhabitants in the W. provinces (Fin-
istere. Cotes du Nord, Morbihan) still speak it, and in many places in the
interior French is not under.-^tood. The peasants still retain their ancient
picturesque dress, which is seen to greatest advantages on Sundays and at
'Pardons' and other fetes. Many of their manner? and customs are al^o
quaint and primitive, and curious old legend and superstitions are met at
every turn. In addition to its wild scenery, Brittany offers the traveller
a special attraction in the stupendous monuments of the ancient Celts at
Carnac and Locmariaquer.

Rennes, see p. 208. On leaving Rennes, our line diverges to the
right from those to Chateaubriant and Redon (see above), and crosses
the Vilaine. To the ri^ht runs the line to St. Malo (R. 30). —
131/2 M. Montfort-sur-Meu (Cheval Blanc), an ancient town, with

LAMBALLE. 29. Route. 213

a tower of the 15th cent, and other relics of its former fortifications.
20 M. Montauban-de-Bretagne (Cosnier), with a chateau of the
14-15th centuries. 23 M. La Brohinitre.

A branch-line runs hence to (2G M.) Ploermel (p. 254), where it meets
a branch from Questembert^ on the railway from Nantes to Brest (p. 254). —
Branch to Dinan, see p. 232.

The train ascends the valley of the Garun and crosses the Ranee.
2S1/2 M. Caulnts; 33 '/2 M. Broons ,■ 40 M. Pienee-Jugon.

50 M. Lamballe (Hotel de France; da Commerce)^ a town with
4530 inhab., is picturesquely situated to the right of the railway,
on a hill crowned by the Church of Notre-Dame, a handsome and
interesting edifice of the 13-15th centuries. Notre-Dame was orig-
inally the chapel of the (;astle of the Comtes de Penthievre, which
was destroyed by Card. Richelieu in 1626. It was in besieging this
castle in 1590 that La Noue, the 'Bayard of the Huguenots', met
his death. A suburb of Lamballe contains the interesting church of
St. Martin, dating mainly from the 11th and 12th centuries. — The
name of Lamballe is, perhaps, most familiar from its connection
with the Princess Lamballe, the unhappy favourite of Marie An-
toinette, one of the victims of the atrocious massacres of Sep-
tember, 1792.

A diligence plies from Lamballe to Le Val Andre (Grand Hdlel; de la
Plage^ etc.), a small sea-bathing place 91/2 31. to the N., passing (71/2 M.)
the village of PUneuf. — Erquy (H6t. des Bains)., 51/2 M. to the N.E., another
bathing-resort, is also served by a dilitsence (13 M. from Lamballe). Cape
Frehel (p. 181) is 11 BI. distant.

An omnibus (fare i^ji fr.) runs from Lamballe to Montcontour, a small
town 10 M. to the S.W., the parish-church of which (St. Mathuriih''s) is a
favourite resort of Breton pilgrims who bring their cattle to be touched
by the reliquary of the saint. It contains some admirable stained glass
of the 16th century. The 'Pardon de St. Mathurin' is celebrated here on
Whitmonday, attracting great crowds of visitors.

From Lamballe to Dinan^ Poniorson, etc., see R. 30.

57 M. Yffiniac. The train now traverses a lofty embankment
and viaduct (125 ft. high).

63 M. St. Brieuc. — Hotels. D'Angleteeke, R. 2-8, B. V^-l'^, dej.
21/2-3, D. 3-4 fr. ; DE TUnivers, R. 2-6, B. 1, dej. o, D. 41/2 tV. ; de France,
R. 21/2-6, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; Ckoix-Blanche, commercial, R., L., & A.
from 21/v fr. — Cafes. Jouhaux, Rue St. Guillaume^ Champ de Mars, Place
du Champ-de-Mars ; Univers, near the theatre. — Cabs. Per drive, 2 pers. I1/4,
3-4 pers. IV2 fr. 5 per hr. 2 fr., at night (8-7) 1/4 and 1/2 fr. extra.

St. Brieuc, a town with 21,665 inhab., the capital of the Departe-
ment des C6tes-du-Nord and the seat of a bishop, is situated on the
left bank of the Gou'et, about 1 M. above the point where it flows
into the Manche. The town sprang into existence round a monastery
founded here at the end of the 5th cent, by St. Brieuc, a missionary
from Britain. Though ill built, with irregular streets, St. Brieuc
contains many quaint and picturesque old houses.

Following first the Rue de la Gare, opposite the station, and then
the Rue du Lyce'e (to the right), we soon reach the Champ- de- Mar s^
with a War Monument for 1&7U-71, by Oge', a native of the town.

214 Route 29. ST. BRIEUC. Fo-om Rennes

On the other side , to the right , is a boulevard with a Statue of
Buguesclin; to the left stands the church of St. Guillaume, dating
originally from the 13th cent., but rebuilt in 1854. The first turning
to the right in the Rue St. Guillaume leads to the Grande Prome-
nade^ containing the Palais de Justice. In the neighbouring quarter
is the modern church of St. Michel^ in the classical style. The street
opposite this church, and the Rue Jouallan lead to the Marche au
Ble, with the Theatre. Thence de Rue des Halles, to the right, leads
past the end of the Rue des Paves-Neufs, No. 4 in which is the
Hotel de Rohan^ one of the most interesting old mansions in the town
(15th cent.). Farther on in the same direction rises the Cathedral,
an unimposing edifice of the 13-15th and 18th cent., containing
numerous monuments. Many of these are erected to the bishops of
St. Brieuc, including three by Oge' (S. aisle and transept). The
Hotel de Ville, adjoining the cathedral, contains a small Muse'e, open
on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4 p.m.; in front of the building is a bronze
Statue of P. Corbion^ by Oge'. Opposite the cathedral is the Pre-
fecture, which is adjoined by the Bishop's Palace, dating partly from
the 16th century. The street passing to the left of the latter leads
to Notre-Dame-d' Esperance or St. Pierre, another 13th cent, church,
recently rebuilt. It is resorted to by pilgrims and contains a Calvary.
The cross-street to the left brings us back to the Champ-de-Mars.

Good views of the picturesque ravine of the Gouet and of the Bay of
St. Brieuc are obtained from the Croix de SanU, to the N.E. of the
Grande Promenade, and from the Tertre de Bui, to the N.W., with a
figure of the Madonna by Oge.

The port i)f St. Brieuc is Le Ligui, 1 M. to the N. (railway). About IV2 M.
farther on stands the ruined Tour de Cesson, built in 1395 to protect the
mouth of the river, but blown up by Henry of Xavarre in 159S.

From St. Bkieuo to Binic, Portriedx, and St. Quat, I2V2 M., diligence
daily (fare 3 fr., to Binic 13/4 fr). — 4 M. Ste. Croix; 5 M. Pordic.

— V/iM. Binic (De Bretagne; de France), a prettily situated little town and
sea-bathing resort, with a small harbnur for boats engaged in the cod-fishery.

— 11 M. Portrieux (De la Plage; du Tains, etc.), a village with a good harbour
of refuge, also frequented for sea-bathing. On tlie Sunday nearest the
first flood-tide in 31 ay the fishing -fleet of the Bay of St. Brieuc (with
about 4W0 men) sets sail hence for the Newfoundland fishing-banks. —
12'/2 M. St. Q,uay (lodging at the Convent), a small town and sea-bathing
place affected by the French clergy. — Beyond St. Quay the road goes on
to (15 M.) Paimpol (p. 216), passing (4 M.) Plouha, (3 M.) Lauloup. (3 M.)
Plouizec, (I1/4 M.) Kirity, and the (^l\ M.) finely-situated ruins of the Abbaye
de Beauport (13-15th cent. ; no admission).

From St. Brieuc to Aurat, 79 M., railway in 6 hrs. (fares about 14 fr.
45, 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 33 c). — 5 M. St. Julien', about 1 M. to the N.K. of
which is the Camp de P^ran, an ancient vitrified fort. — 12 M. Quintin
(Du Commerce; Grand' Maison), picturesquely situated on the Gouet, is
noted for its manufacture of 'toiles de Bretagne', a particular kind of
linen cloth. The chateau was built in the 17-i8th centuries. Diligences
ply hence via (IOV2 W.) Covlay to (25 M.) Ro^trenen. — 14 M. Le Pas contains
iron-works. The Wood of Lorges and the ChAteau of Lorges Uo the left) are
passed. — 31 M. Loudtac, another cloth-manufacturing town, gives name
to a forest, 11 sq. M. in extent. The railway now crosses the Oust and the
canal from Brest to Nantes. — 39 M. St. Gt'rand.

45 M. Pontivy (Hdtel Grosset; de France), a town with 9290 inhab.. on
the Blavet, grew up round a monastery said to have been founded iu the

to Brest. GUINGAMP. 29. Route. 215

7th cent., by St. Ivy, a monk of Lindisfarne. Pontivy was situated in the
midst of those parts of Brittany most loyal to the house of Bourbon, and in
1805 Napoleon ordered the erection of a new town , to overawe the district.
This addition, known as NapoUonville and consisting mainly of barracks,
gave its name to the whole community under the lirst and second empires.
The old town contains some considerable remains of a Chateau of the
15th cent. , now containing the Mus6e Le Brigand., and the church of
Notre-Dame-de-la-Joie, of the same period. A statue (by Leofanti) of Dr.
Gudpin (1805-73), an ardent democrat, stands in the Place Egalite^ another
(by the Comte de Nogent) of General de Lourmel (d. 1855 at Sebastopol)
in the Place d'Armes. — A diligence plies hence to (13 M.) Guimini-sur-
Scorff via (13/4 M.) Stival, with the 16th cent. Chapelle St. Miriadec.

bi^j-z M. St-Nicolas-des-Eaux has a IBth cent, chapel of St. Nicodemus,
which is annually visited by many pilgrims. On the day of the 'Pardon'
(the first Sat. in Aug.) the cattle of the neighbourhood, gaily adorned with
ribands, are driven to two fountains near the chapel, which are supposed to
possess miraculous virtues. Young cattle are presented to the saint, and
afterwards sold by auction, the popular belief being that one of them in a
herd brings prosperity. — Beyond two short tunnels is the (63 M.) station
of Baud. The small town of that name lies 8 M. to the E. At the ruined
chateau of Quiidpily., about 1 M. from Baud, is the curious 'Venus' of Quin-
ipily, a rude stone statue, formerly worshipped by the peasantry with obscene
rites. The figure, which is of granite, is about 7 ft. high, and on the (illet
about the head are the letters I I T. The origin or meaning of the statue
is obscure, but it seems clear that it was never intended for Venus. Some
authorities ascribe it to Moorish soldiers in the early Roman armies; to
others it has an Egyptian appearance. — The train now traverses the Forest
of Camors and reaches (72 M.) Pluvignier. The town, with 5160 inhab., lies
3/4 M. to the left. We join the line from Brest to Nantes. — 79 M. Aurarj.,
see p. 256.

Beyond St. Brieuc the train crosses the valley of the Gouet by
a Viaduct^ 190 ft. high, — 691/2 M. Plouvara-Plerneuf. — 74 M.
Chatelaudren. The village, 1/2 M. to the N., has a chapel containing
panelling painted in the 15th cent, with 72 Biblical subjects.

82 M. Guingamp (Hot. de France; Per isse), a town with 9272 inhab.,
is noted for its church of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours (13-16th cent.),
one of the chief pilgrim-resorts in Brittany. The 'Pardon' takes place
on the Sat. before the first Sun. in July, and presents a most interest-
ing spectacle. Guingamp also contains a fine Fountain, reconstructed
in the style of the 15th century. The Gothic chapel at Graces, a
village 11/4 M. to the W., dates from 1507-21 and contains some
noteworthy sculptures.

From Guingamp to Carhaix and Rosporden, 641/2 M., railway in 41/4-
5 hrs. (fares about 11 fr. 65, 7 fr. 90, 5 fr. 10 c). This line penetrates the
heart of Basse - Bretagne , a sombre district, comparatively unknown to
tourists, and inhabited by a highly superstitious people, with many curious
customs. — Coadut, a village about halfway between Guingamp and (7 M.)
Moustirus-Bourhriac. the first station, is noted for its 'Pardon des Coqs'
(1st Sun. in Advent), so called from the cocks (sometimes 6-700) presented
to St. Ildut. — 12 M. Font-Melvez, 21/2 M. to the S. of which is Bulat-Pesiivien,
with an interesting church (15-16th cent.) and a 'pardun' on Sept. 8th. —
2OV2 M. Callae (3300 inhab.), noted for its cattle-fairs. — 331/2 M. Carhaix
(p. 217). — Beyond (41V2 M.) Motreff the line passes the E. extremity of
the Montagues Noires (1070 ft.), a small chain of granite hill<5 running parallel
with the Montagnes d'Arree (p. 217). — 4'ii/2 M. Gourin (Gheval Blanc), a
mining-town (4723 inhab.). Diligence via Le Faouet to Quimperle (p, 260).
-- 57 M. Scair (5940 inhab.). — 641/2 M. Rosporden (p. 260).

From Gdingamp to Paimpol, 23 M., railway in 1^/4-21/2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 15,
2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 c). The railway crosses the Trieux, passes under the Brest

216 Route 29. MORLAIX. From Rennes

line, and ascends towards tlie N. — Beyond (91/2 M.) Plouec we return to
the valley of the Trieux and skirt the river. — 13 M. Pontrieux: (Hot. de la
Grande-Maison ; de France), a village with a small harbour, on the Trieux.
From Pontrieux to Treguier, see below. — 19^/2 M. Plourivo-L4zardrieux.
Lezardrieux (Hot. du C mmerce), < n the left bank (reached by a suspension
bridge), is another small port. — 23 M. Paimpol (Guicquel; Michel), a small
town, has a harbour at the end of a bay, which is of importance as a centre
for the French boats engaged in the cod-fishery off Newfoundland and Ice-
land. — About 5 M. to the N., V/t M. off the coast, is the lie Brihat (Hotels ;
sea-baths), offering a good harbour of refuge, large enough for men-of-war
(boat from the Pointe de VArcouet^ 25 c). About 8 M. to the S., and 1 M. to
the E. of the direct road to St. Brieuc (see p. 213), is the Temple de Lanleff^
an interesting circular church, formerly looked upon as a heathen temple
and probably erected by the Templars in the 12th century. — A public
conveyance (2 4 fr.) plies from Paimpol to (20i/2 M.) Lannion (see below)
via (3 M.) Lezardrieux (see above) and (91/2 M.) Treguier (see below). —
Road to St. (^uay via Kiriiy and the Abhaye de Beaufort^ see p. 214.

A diligence (2 fr.) plies from Pontrieux (see above) to (972 M.) Triguier.
via (21/2 M.) Plo'ezal, near tbe curious 15th cent. Chateau de la Roche-Jagul
(41/2 M.) Pommerit-Jaudy , and (51/2 M.) La Roche-Derrien, a village with an
interesting church and a ruined castle. — 9V2 M. Treguier (Grand Hotel;
de France)^ a picturesque lishing-town, lies partly on the hilla at the con-
fluence of the two streams that unite to form the Treguier. The Cathedral
(14-15th cent.), with three towers over the transepts, contains the large
tomb of St. Yves (1253 1303), patron-saint of advocates, restored in 1890.
The Cloisters, entered from the left transept, are as old as the church.
Ernest Renan (1823-92) was born at Treguier. — Diligence t j Paimpol and
Lannion, see above.

The railway skirts Guingamp, affording a pretty view of the en-
virons. 91 M. BeUe-Jsle-Beyard. — 98 M. Plouaret (Hot. Rocher),

Fkom Flouarkt to Lansiox, 10 M., railway in 30-35 min. (fares 2 fr.,
1 fr. 35, 90 c). — lannion (Hotel d^Europe; de France), a town with 6126
inhab. and a small lishing harbour, is situated on the Liguer. In the pretty
valley of this river, which deserves a visit, are the ruins of the (2'/2 M.)
Cndteau de Co'etfrec, the Renaissance Chapel of Kerf on s {l-l^ji M. farther), the
Chateau of Kergrist (2 M. farther), and the ruined Chateau of Tonquidec, 3 M.
beyond Kerfons.

A diligence (75 c.) plies from Lannion to (6 M.) Perros-Guirec (H6t. du
Levant; des Bains), a small port with two bathing-beaches, viz. those of
Trestraou (Hot. de la Plage, pens. 6-8 fr. ^ Grand Hotel des Bains) and
Trestrigiiel (Giand Hotel de Perros-Guinec, dpened in 1897). Thence we
may visit the curious rocks of Ploumanac'h (3 M. to the N.W.) and Tregastel
(21/2 M. farther W.). Tregastel {Communauti de Ste. Anne, kept by nuns,
pens. 5-6 fr. ; Hot. de la Plage, small) is another bathing-resort, also served
by a diligence from Lannion (3 M. ; 1 fr.).

The railway traverses an undulating country, and beyond two
short tunnels reaches (103 M.) Plounerin.

About 21/2 M. to the S.E. lies the Chapel of Keramenac'h, a curious
structure of the 15th century. — A diligence plies from Plounerin to O^h '^'-^
Plestin-les-Greves ( Grand' Maiso/i), a bathing-resort (3900 inhab.), 6 M. from
which is Locquirec (Hdl. des Bains; du Port), another resort of the same
kind. St. Jcan-du-Doigl lies 8 M. to the W. of Locquirec (see p. 218).

To the left of the railway, farther on, lies the village oiFlouegat-
Moysan, near which is the rude chapel of St. Laurent- du- Pa Ida ur, a
frequented pilgrim-resort on the night of Aug. 9-lOth, when many
curious superstitious rites are performed. — 112 iM. Plouigneau. AVe
cross the lofty Viaduct of Morlaix (see p. '217).

118 M. Morlaix (Hotel de L' Europe i de Provence; Bozellec), a
town with l(i,000 inhab., picturesquely situated on a tidal river,

to Brest. ROSCOFF. 29. Route. 217

about 4 M. from the English Channel. The Rue Gambetta describes a
considerable curve in descending from the station ; a flight of steps
to the left offers a shorter route for pedestrians. At the end is the
Hotel de Ville^ in front of which is the Place Thiers, with a bronze
Bust of Comic- Duchtne (^1731-1809), a famous corsair of Morlaix,
by Lud. Durand (to be removed to a new arch beyond the viaduct).
Between this Place and the harbour is the * Viaduct^ 310 yds. long
and 190 ft. high, with a bridge for foot-passengers below the railway.

The Harbour is formed by the JarLot and the Qaefjleut^ which
unite in a vaulted channel beneath the Hotel de Ville to form the
Rivitre de Morlaix. Morlaix carries on an active trade with the N.
of Europe in grain, oil-seeds, vegetables, butter, honey, wax, leather,
horses, etc. The large building to the left of the wet dock is a To-
bacco Manufactory.

On the quay to the right of the same dock is the Fontaine des Anglais,
marking the spot where 600 Englislimen were surprised a.^leep and slain
after an attack on Morlaix by Henry VIII. (1522).

The church of St. Meiaine, near the Place Thiers, dates chiefly
from the 15th cent.; the carvings on the fonts, organ-case, and
vaulting should be noticed. The old streets behind the Hotel de
Ville contain quaint old houses, with interesting interiors. — Farther
on is St. Mathieu (16th cent.), with a massive tower.

In the Place des Jacobins, on the other side of the Jarlot, is an
old convent-church (with two fine windows) now containing the Musee
(Sun. and Thurs., 1-4, free; other days 25 c). — The quaint costume
of the peasants is seen at Morlaix to advantage on market-days.

From Morlaix to Roscoff, I71/2 M., railway in 50-55 min. (fares 3 fr. 15,

2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 40 c). — Beyond (61/4 M.) TauM-Henvic we cross the Pensdz
by means of a viaduct, 100 ft. in height. lOy-i M. Plou4iian. — 131/2 M. St. Pol-
de-Leon (Hotel de France), a town with 1Q20 inhab., is 1/2 M. from the sea,
on which lies its small port Pempoul. The Cathedral, a partly Romanesque
and partly Gothic structure of the 13-14th cent., possesses two beautiful
spires, and contains various tombs and other works of art. Still more
interesting, however, is the "Chapelle de Creizker, chiefly 14th and 15th cent,
work, with an exquisite tower and spire, traditionally said to have been
built by an English architect. The cemetery contains Gothic ossuaries and
a church of the 15th century. — 171/2 M. RoscoflF (Hotel des Bains-de-Mer;
Talabardon; de la Maison- Blanche) , a town with 4730 inhab. and a small
harbour, carries on a trade in the vegetables which grow in the neighbour-
hood. The Gulf Stream is said to contribute to the fertility of this district.
Mary, Queen of Scots, landed here in 1548, at the age of live, on her way
to be betrothed to the Dauphin Francis. Prince Charles Edward Stuart also
landed here after escaping from Scotland. — About 21/2 M. off the coast
lies the small lie de Batz (Hot. Robinson), inhabited by mariners.

Fkom Morlaix to Carhaix, 30 M., railway in 2-2V2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 50,

3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 40 c). — Beyond (572 M.) Plougonvm-Plourin the line crosses
the Montagnes d'Arrie (1280 ft.), the principal chain in Brittany. — 2OV2 M.
Huelgoat-Locmaria. Huelgoal (Hot. de Bretagne-, de France) is situated
33/4 M. f ( om the station (hotel-omn. IV2 fr.) near a lake and a wooded
valley in which is a huge rocking-stone Crocher tremblant'). The Church
(16th cent.) has some interesting wood-carvings. About 41/2 M. to the S.W.
is St. Herbot, with a remarkable 16th cent, chapel, which is the scene of
an interesting 'pardon' in May. — 23^/2 M. PouUaouen. — 30 M. Carhaix
(H6t. de la Tour-d'Auvergne) , on the Aveii or Hiere , an old town with

21S Route 29. ST. THEGONNEC. From Rennes

3032 inliab. and two old churches, is the birthplace of La Tour-d'Auvergne,
'the first grenadier of France' (1743-1800). A branch-line runs hence to
flSi/z M.) Rostrenen, whence a diligence plies via (10 M.) Goarec to (30 M.)
Loudiac (p. 214). — From Carhair. to Guingamp and to Rosporden, see p. 215.
Other interesting excursions may be made fi-om Morlaix to (81/2 M.)
Carantec (carr. 12-15 fr.); to St. Thigonnec and Gimiliau (carr. 12 fr.); and
to (10 M.) St. Jean-du-Doigt (Hoi. St. Jean), the church of which (15-16th cent.)
contains a finger of St. John, in a gold and silver enamelled casket of the
15th century. The local 'pardon' takes place on St. John's Eve (23rd June).
St. Jean may be conveniently reached by means of the diligence (1 fr.) from
Morlaix to (IIV4 M.) Plougasnou (Hotels), IV4 M. from St. Jean. The dil-
igence goes on to Frimel (Hotels; sea-baths).

114 M. Pleyber- Christ. — 119 M. St. Thegonnec (Hotel Ferer).
The town (3073 inliab. ), l'Y4 M. to the N,, has a handsome Renais-
sance church. In the churchyard are a curious triumphal arch and
an ossuary of the same epoch, a 'Calvary', and a Holy Sepulchre. —
The line now crosses the Pensez by a viaduct 100 ft. high. The village
of Gimiliau.^ to the right, contains one of the most curious 'Calvaries'
in Brittany, adorned with statues and statuettes (1581). — 125 M.
Landivisiau (Hot. de V Industrie) is a small industrial town (4240
iiihah.), 11/4 M. to the N. of the railway.

About 31/2 M. to the N.W. lies Bodilis, with a tasteful Renaissance
church, and 41/2 M. farther on, to the left of the road, are the interesting
ruins of the Chateau of Kerjean (l6th cent.). — About 5 M. to the N.E. is
Lambader, with a pilgrimage-chapel of the 14th cent., beyond which arc
(1/2 M.) Plouvorn and (IV2 M.) the Chateau of Kiruzor6 (ITth cent.).

We now descend the valley of the Elorn. — 140 M. La Roche,
21/2 M. to the S.E. of wldch is La Martyre, a village with a hand-
some church (15-1 6th cent.), and a noted horse-fair in July.

143'/2 M. Landerneau fJBw/T'ef ; "^ Hotel de I'Vnivers; Raould),
the junction of the Nantes line (R. 34), is a cloth-manufacturing
town with 8038 inhabitants. It contains two churches of the 10th
cent., one dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, and a mediaeval
bridge across the Elorn.

Fkom Landehneau to PLouNfioUR-TREZ, iV/2 M., railway in IV4-IV-' ^^■
(fares 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 40 c.). 10 M. Le Folgoet is a pilgrim-resort, with a
curious Church of the 15th cent., containing a handsome *Rood-loft of the
same period. IOV2 Lesneveri (Hot. de France; Trois-Piliers), a small town
(348S inhab.). 171/2 M. Plouniour-Trez (2900 inhab.), near which is Brignogan
(Motels), a small sea-bathing resort.

The railway continues to follow the valley of the Elorn and
traverses a forest. To the left is the Anse de Kerhuon, a small bay
crossed by a lofty viaduct and containing the chief timber depot of
the French navy. — 150 M. Kerhuon.

A ferry (10 c.) here crosses the Elorn to Le Passage, whence a road
ascends to'(l=*/4M.) Plougastel (H6t. Kervella) , a village noted for the
quaint costumes of its inhabitants, and for the 'Pardon' of St. John, which
takes place on June 24th. The cemetery contains a curious monumental
'Calvary of l(J02-04, embellished with numerous statuettes and reliefs. —
Diligence (1 fr.) daily to (7 M.) Daoulas (p. 262); steamer from Brest to
Le Passage on June 24th and Sun. in summer,

1621/2 M. Le Rody is also situated on a creek. About this point
begin the Roads of Brest, the shores of which are well wooded and
picturesque. The train traverses a long cutting.

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to Brest. BREST. 29. Route. 219

155 M. Brest. — Hotels. Hotel Continkntal (PI. a; D, 3) , Place
de la Tour-d'Auvergne, R., L., & A. 3-7, B. 1V4-2, dej,3, D. 3V2, omn. V2-V4 fr.,
well spoken of; *des Voyageurs (PI. b; D, 2. 3), Rue de Siam 16, R , L., & A.
from 21/2, de'j. 3, D. 31/2 fr.; Grand Hotel (PI. c; D, 3), Place du Champ-
de-Bataille; du Grand-Turc (PI. d; D, 2), Place des Portes , R. 1V2-3,
B. 1/2, dej. 2, D. 21/2 fr.; de France (PL e; D, 3), Rue de la Mairle.

Cafes. Laplanche, du Commerce, de Paris., Rue d'Aiguillon and Place du
Champ-de-Bataille; Grand Cafa, Brestois, Rue de Siam 15 and 17. — Cafe-
Concert des FoUes-Bergdre, Rue Guyot 4.

Cabs. For 1-2 pers., per drive IV4, per hr. 13/4 fr. ; 3-4 pers., 2 & 21/2 fr.

Post Office (PI. D, 3), at the corner of the Rue du Chateau and Rue
d'Aiguillon, in the Place du Champ-de-Bataille.

British Consul, Herbert Gye., Esq.; vice-consul, Fred. Bonar, Esq. —
American Consular Agent, 3f. A. Pitel.

French Protestant Church., Rue d'Aiguillon 4 (service at 11 a.m.).

Brest, a town with 74,538 inhal*., the chief naval port of France,
and a fortress of the first class, is situated in the department of
Finistere, the westernmost part of France, to the N. of the Roads of
Brest. Though it also possesses a commercial harbour, its im-
portance depends entirely upon its naval dockyard, and its history
is practically the history of the latter.

The date of the foundation of the town of Brest is unknown. It
was one of the twelve Breton ports given by John IV., Duke of Brittany,
to Edward III. of England in 1842, and it repulsed an attack of the French
under Duguesclin. In 138G, 1387, and 13S8 John IV. made attempts to re-
cover Brest, but the English did not relinquish it until 1397, when Richard II.
sold it to Charles VII. of France for 12,0UU crowns. In 1489, during the
Breton War of Succession, Brest opened its gates to Charles of Blois, and
offered a successful resistance to Anne of Brittany, who was assisted by
an English fleet. The English afterwards threatened Brest several times,
and Lord Howard attacked it unsuccessfully in 1513. Though it passed
finally to France in 1532, along with the rest of Brittany (see p. 209), it
did not begin to be a naval port of importance until about 1631. Richelieu
began the extensive harbour-works, and Vauban fortified the port in time
to beat back an energetic attack of the English and Dutch fleets in 1694.
Information of this expedition is believed to have been conveyed to the
French court by .Tacobite spies. In 1794 Admiral Howe defeated the French
fleet, under Villaret and Joyeuse, off Brest.

The town is built on two rocky hills on the banks of the Penfeld.,
which forms the naval harbour, the chief part being on the left bank.
Three roads lead to the town from the Station (PI. E, 3), which lies
outside the fortifications. That straight in front conducts us in a few
minutes to the Place du Champ-de-Bataille (Pl.D, 3), via the Porte
Foy, the Rue Voltaire (left), and the Rue de la Rampe or Rue
d'Aiguillon (right). The two last streets lead on beyond the Place
to the Rue de Siam (PI. C, 3), the principal street in Brest, while in
the other direction they end at the Cours Dajot (see below). — The
Avenue de la Gare, to the right from the station, leads to the upper
end of the Rue de Siam, which descends thence to the naval har-
bour. — The street to the left from the station passes between the
commercial harbour and the Cours Dajot to the Place du Chateau.

The Commercial Harbour (PI. E, 3), of recent construction, in-
cludes at present four basins, with a total area of 100 acres, with two
moles, and a breakwater 1/2 M long. The Cours Dajot (PI. C, D, 4)

220 Route 29. BREST. Castle.

is a handsome promenade laid out in 1769, and emhellislied with
statues of Neptune and Abundance, by Coyzevox. It communicates
with the commercial harbour by flights of steps. The * View of the
roadstead thence is particularly fine.

Brest Roads, in which several men-of-war are usually anchored, are
formed of an irregular bay, 14 M. long and 7 M. wide, almost landlocked
by a peninsula, which leaves free only a single channel on the N,, called
the Goulet, 1-2 M. broad and 3 M. long. The entrance is thus somewhat
difficult, but the Goulet once passed, ships find themselves in perhaps the
largest and safest roadstead of Europe, in which 4u0 men-of-war can ride
at anchor at one time. The roads are defended by powerful batteries,
for the most part on the level of the water, and commanded themselves
by the guns of the vast system of fortifications which guard the harbour
and town. The peninsula of PJougastel Ip. 218) divides the roadstead into
two main parts, fiom which various smaller bays ramify. The part next
the town is called the Bras de Landerneau^ into which the Elorn or Lan-
derneau falls ; the other is the Bras de ChdieauUn (p. 262), which receives
the Chateaulin or Aulne.

At the W. end of the Cours Dajot, on a rock overlooking the
harbour, rises the Castle (PI. C, 4), an important military work,
modified by Vauban from a construction of the 13th century. Visitors
are admitted on application at the entrance (at 10 a.m., 2 p.m., or
4 p.m. ; fee), but there is nothing of great interest in the interior.
The *View from the Tour de Brest, on the side next the harbour,
is, however, very fine. Including the donjon, the castle has eight
towers, the original conical roofs of which were replaced by Vauban
with platforms, on which cannon were mounted. Various cells and
dungeons are shown to the visitor, most of them with their special
tale of horror or suffering.

The *Naval Harbour (PI. B, 4, 3, 2) is a sort of canal, 3 M.
long, averaging 100 yds. in breadth, and from 30 to 40 ft. deep,
excavated in great part from the living rock, at the mouth of a
small stream called the Penfeld. It has been made accessible from
the castle by levelling the ground. It is most conveniently reached
from the centre of the town by the Rue de Siam (PI. 0, 4).

The *Swing Bridge {^Pont Tournant; PI. B, 4), at the end of
this street, constructed in i8()l to connect Brest with Recouvrance,
is one of the largest of the kind in existence. It is 125 yds. long,
with an average height of upwards of (30 ft. The two iron wings of
which it is composed turn upon tower-shaped piers ; four men can
open or shut the bridge in 10 minutes. The visitor will hardly fail
to be struck with the combined boldness and lightness of this re-
markable structure. A bridge-of-boats for foot-passengers crosses
the harbour below the swing-bridge.

Perhaps the best general survey of the naval port is obtained
from the swing-bridge, though as the canal forms a series of curves,
concealed by the rising banks, nothing like the whole of it can be
seen from any one point. The animation and variety of the port,
with the immense magazines, workshops, barracks, etc., lining it
on both sides, are more easily imagined than described. No one

Excursions.

BREST. 29. Route. 221

at all interested in naval matters should fail to endeavour to obtain
permission to inspect the dockyard, which employs between 8000
and 9000 workmen. Foreigners, however, require a special per-
mission from the French Admiralty.

The town offers few other points of interest besides those al-
ready mentioned. The principal church, St. Louis (PI. C, 2), though
founded in 1688, has only recently been finished.

Near the upper end of the harbour, on the right bank, is the Etahlisse-
meiit des PupiUes de la Marine, where orphans are received at the age of
seven to be trained as sailors. At thirteen they enter the JScole des Mousses
(ship-boys) on board a vessel lying in the roads, from which they are
drafted into the navy, or pass at the age of sixteen to the Ecole des Novices,
on board another ship for farther training. The 'Borda', also anchored
in the roads, contains the Naval School.

The Musee, in the Place Sadi-Carnot (PI. C, 3), is open free on
Sun. & Thurs., 11-4 or 5, and to strangers on other days also. It
contains a collection of modern paintings and the public Library.
The Botanic Garden (PL C, 2), beyond the Quartier de la Marine,
is open in summer, on Sun. & Thurs., 2-3. It includes a museum
of natural history. Near it is the large Naval Hospital., with
1200 beds. — The suburb of Bel-Air^ beyond the fortifications to
the N.E., contains the handsome Church of St. Martin (PI. E, 1), a
modern building in the Gothic style of the 12th century.

Excursions. Various pleasant excursions may be made in the roads and
environs of Brest by means of steamers and public conveyances. Small steam
launches may also be had for hire. — Besides Plougastel (see p. 218) per-
haps the most interesting points, commanding the finest views, are (i3V.2 M.)
Le Conquet, a small port, and (14 M.) the Pointe St. Mathieu, the W. ex-
tremity of Finistere, near which stands a ruined abbey-church. The road
to both starts from Recouvrance (diligence twice a day from No. 1 Grand'
Rue). Beyond (13/4 M.) St. Pierre-Quilbignon on this road we may diverge
to the Chapel of St. Ann, near (3i/2 M.) Porizic, which is alo reached by
a picturesque road along the coast. — The lie d^Ouessant, a small islet
inhabited by fishermen, lies about 13 M. otf the coast, and is reached by
steamers plying from Le Conquet in 3-3V2 hrs. It gives name to the inde-
cisive battle of Ushaiit, fought in 17(S3 between the English fleet under Keppel
and the French under D'Orvilliers. Between this island and the Isle de
MoUne, to the S.E., are the Pierres Vertes, on which the English liner
'Druramond Castle' was lost, with 300 lives, in June, 1893.

From Brest TO MoRGAT. Steamer (V-' fr.) from the commercial harbour
on Mon., Wed., Frid., and Sun. at 7 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. to (3/4 hr.) Le Fret,
and diligence thence to (3V2 M.) Crozon (8276 inhab.) and (4 M.) Morgat
(Hdtel Richard), a bathing-resort on the peninsula of Crozon, which offers
much curious rock-scenery. — From Morgat we may drive to (22 M.) Chdteau-
lin (31/2 hvs.; carr. 20 fr.) or to (271/2 M.) Douarnenez (4 hrs.; 25 fr.) ; see p. 261.

Froji Brest to Landevennec, by special steamer (1 fr.) on Sun. in
summer or by the Chateaulin steamer, twice weekly. At Landivennec
(Inns), at the mouth of the Chateaulin, is a ruined Abbey (16th cent.)

From Brest to Ploddalmezeau, 20 M.. railway in IV2 hr. (fares 2 fr. 45,
1 fr. 65 c). This line starts from the Gave des Chemins de Fer Diparte-
mentaux (PI. C, 3). — 372 M. Lamb&zellec (16,400 inhab.), an industrial
suburb of Brest. — IO1/2 M. SL Renrtn. — 20 M. Ploudalmizeau (De Bre-
tagne; G-raide-Maison), \^j\ M. from the wild and tempestuous coast.

From Brest to Laknilis, I8V2 M., railway in I1/2 hr. Tliis line diverges
from the above beyond Lambezellec. 181/2 M. Lannilis (Hot. Lagadec) lies
about 11/4 M. from the remarkable estuaries of the Aber-Benoit (N.) and
the Abervrach (S.)- On the latter is Paluden (Hotel), a bathing-resort.

222

30. From Rennes to St. Malo. Environs of St. Malo.
Excursions from St. Malo.

Mont SL Michel. Dinan.
a. From Rennes to St. Malo.

51 M. Railway in 13/4-2V2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 20, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 5 c).

Rennes^ see p. 208. To the left diverge the lines mentioned at
p. 212. We cross the Vilaine and then ascend the pretty valley of
the canalized lUe, crossing the stream several times. 8 M. Betton;
121/2 M. St. Germain-sur-Ille; 15 M. St. Medard-sur-llU; 177-2 M.
Montreuil-suT-llle ; 20 M. Le Pas-d'llle. The train then leaves the
valley of the Hie. — 26 M. Combourg (Des Voyageurs; de la Ban-
niere). The small town (5541 inhab.) lies ahout ^/^ M. to the left
and possesses a chateau (14-15th cent.) belonging to the Chateau-
hriand family, in which the famous author of that name spent part
of his childhood. — 31 M. Bonnemain.

36 M. Dol {Buffet ; Grand Hotels near the station ; Grand'' Mai-
son^ in the town), a town with 4762 inhab., still preserves many
quaint mediaeval houses, with the first stories projecting over the
street and supported by arches. The Cathedral^ an interesting
building of the 13th and 16th cent., is dedicated to St. Samson, an
English monk who is said to have founded a monastery on the site
of Dol ; and some authorities are inclined to trace the influence of
English architects in the square end of the choir and in other particu-
lars (comp. p. 109). The W. fa(;ade, with its two towers of the 13th
and 16th cent., is remarkably plain, but on the S. side of the church
is a handsome 15th cent, portal with a porch. The S. transept also
has a portal; but there is none on the N., where the church touches
the town- walls, and where the chapels are furnished with battlements.
The church also possesses a central tower. The square end-wall of
the choir is pierced with a large window, filled with good stained
glass of the 13th century. The N. transept contains the tomb of Bishop
James (d. 1503), by Jean Juste, sculptor of the tomb of Louis XII.
at St. Denis; unfortunately it has lost the statue and is otherwise
mutilated. In the apse is a fine chapel dedicated to St. Samson.

Excursion-breaks (2 fr. per pers.) leave the Grand Hotel at 9.30 a.m., and
1.30 and 3.30 p.m. and visit the cathedral, Mont Dol, and the Champ Dolent.

Near Carfantain^ ahout 11/4 M. to the S.E., is the Stone of Dol or of
Champ Dolent, a menhir 30 ft. high, surmounted by a cross. — About l^/* M.
to the N. is the Marais de Dol, a fertile plain inundated in 709 but re-
claimed in the 12th cent. , and protected by a 'digue' or embankment
22 M. in length. In the middle of the plain rises the Mont Dol (210 ft.),
on which is situated a village with a 15th cent, church. — Railways to
Pontorson (Mont St. Michel) and Dinan, etc., see p. 181.

The line now crosses the marsh of Dol (see above). 42 M. La
Fresnais. From (45 M.) La Gouesniere-Cancale an omnibus plies to
Cancale(7V2 M. ; see p. 226); and a branch-line diverges to Miniac
(p.230). To the left as we approach St. Malo appears St. Servan (p.22'i).

Orave et iurprmxe par

Aase desTours a. Chaux

"Wa-gner &I)et)es,Xeipiig,

ST. MALO, 30. Route. 223

51 M. St. Malo. — Hotels. "De France, witli sea-view from the
back- windows , R. 3-5, L. & A. ^/t, B. 11/4, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. incl. cider,
pens. 10-12, omn. 3/4-I fr. ^ Continental ('hotel meuble'"); de l-Univers, all
these in the Place Chateaubriand; Franklin, outside the town, near the
casino, pens, from 10 fr. ; ou Centre, de Normandie, du Commerce, Rue St.
Thomas; Union, R., L., & A. from 3fr., de Provence, unpretending, both
Rue de la Poissonnerie; dd Lodvre, Central, Rue Boursaint; Chadoin,
des Votageurs, at the station, dej. 2 fr. — Many English and other visit-
ors patronize St. Malo in summer, so that the hotels are often crowded
and expensive.

Cafes. Continental., des Voj/ageurs , def Quest, Place Chateaubriand;
Grand Gafi, Rue St. Thomas.

Cabs. Stand in front of the castle (Porte St. Vincent), where the tariff
is posted up : per drive IV4 fr., per hr. 21/4 fr., each additional '/•» ^^- V2 fr.

Steam-Tramways (comp. the Plan). 1. From the Gale de Dinan to the
Povte St. Vincent (10 c). 2. From the PoHe St. Vincent to Parame-Bourg
via the coast (20 & 30 c). 3. From the Porte St. Vincent to the Mairie at
St. Servan via the railway-station (15 & 20 c). 4. From the Mairie at
St. Servan to Param.e-Bourg via the railway-station (15, 20, & 30 c). — Om-
nibus to Cancale, see p. 226.

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box and costume 1 fr., towel 10 c. Warm Salt
Water Baths (1 fr.), near the Casino. — Casino. Admission 5 fr. per day.
Subscripti(m for a week 20, fortnight 30, month 40, season 50 fr. ; for 2 pers.
25, 35, oO, & 70 fr. ; for 3 pers. 30, 40, GO, & 80 fr.

Pont Roulant (see p. 224) between St. Malo and St. Servan (p. 225),
fares 10 and 5 c, after 8 p.m. 20 and 15 c, after 10 p.m. 30 and 25 c. —
Steam-Ferry to Dinard hourly (from 6. 30 a.m. to 8. 30 p.m.) during the
season, starting at the Cale de Dinan, in the outer harbour, the Cale du
Grand-Bey (p. 224), or the Cale du Petit-Bey, according to the tide. From
Dinard at the full hours. No boats at midday. Passage in 10 min. (fares
50, 25, and 15 c).

Steamers. To Dinan., see p. 229. — To Jersey., thrice a week during
the season, under the same conditions as from Granville, by which the return
may be made (comp. p. 188). — To the Islands in the bay, Cancale., Mont
St. Michel., Granville., Cap FriheU etc., at irregular intei'vals ; see local adver-
tisements and bills. — To Southampton (London), see p. xiii.

Post & Telegraph Office, opposite the W. facade of the church.

British Vice-Consul, Hon. E. Henniker- Major. — United States Consular
Agent, Raymond Moulton., Esq.

English Church, at Parame. — Work among the British seamen fre-
quenting the port is carried on by the St. Andrew''s Waterside Mission.

St. Malo, a fortified seaport with 11,476 inhab., occupies a re-
markably picturesque situation, on a rock (formerly an island) rising
between the harbour and the mouth of the Ranee, flanked on the
left by St. Servan, and facing Dinard on the opposite bank.

St. Malo derives its name from the Welsh monk St. Malo or St. Maclou,
who became its first bishop in the 6th cent., but its importance, formerly
much greater than at present, dates from a considerably later period. The
inhabitants of St. Malo early distinguished themselves as bold traders
in time of peace and as daring privateers in time of war. Jacques Cartier,
who discovered Canada in 1534, was a native of St. Malo; the famous ad-
miral Duguay-Trouin (1673-1736) was at first a privateersman from the same
port; Surcouf (1773-18'27), well known as a corsair, and Mahe' de la Bour-
donnais (1699-1753), who took Madras from the English in 1746, were also
<^Malouins\ In 1622 St. Malo sent valuable aid to Louis XIII. at the siege
of La Rochelle; and its cruisers had been so successful in war and trade ,
that in 1711 the town contributed 30 million francs to support Louis XIV .
in the wars of the Spanish Succession. The English made various un-
successful attempts to capture the town and bombarded it several times.
In 1758 the Duke of Marlborough landed at St. Servan with 15,000 men,
but though he did immense damage to shipping and other property, he

224 Route 30. ST. MALO.

was unable to take St. Malo. — St. Malo was also the birthplace of Mau-
pertuis (1698-1759), Lamettrle (1709-51), Chateaubriand (1768-1848), Broussais
(1772-1838), and Lamennais (1782-1854).

The railway- station is situated in the suhurh of Rocabey^ near
the harbour, "between St. Malo and St. Servan, and ahout 1/2 M^- from
each. To reach the former, we turn first to the right, and then to
the left, between a wet dock and the inner reservoir. The tramway
route (5 min. longer) traverses the Sillon, an embankment 220 yds.
long and about 150 ft. broad, which connects the rock on which the
town stands with the mainland.

The Harbour (recently completed), in a shallow bay between
St. Malo and St. Servan, consists mainly of an outer basin, a tidal
harbour, two wet docks, and an inner reservoir. St. Malo is the
twelfth port in France in point of importance ; it imports timber and
coal, exports provisions of all kinds to I^ngland, and takes a consider-
able share in the Newfoundland cod-fishery.

At the end of the Sillon next the town, to the right, is the
modest Casino (see p. 223), in front of which is a bronze Statue of
Chateaubriand^ by Millet.

Opposite rises the Castle, dating from the 14-15th cent., now
used as barracks. It consists mainly of four towers, one of which
may be ascended for the sake of the view. An almost equally
extensive and more varied view may, however, be enjoyed from
the *Ramparts, which date mainly from the 16th century. Visitors
should not omit to make the circuit of the town on the ramparts,
both for the sake of enjoying the curious appearance of the town,
and also for the view of the bay, which is finest when the tide is
full. The bay is dotted with fortified islets, one of which, the
Grand-Bey, 550 yds. from the town, contains the simple tomb of
Chateaubriand (d. 1848). St. Malo is remarkable for the great
height to which the tide rises. Ordinary tides rise from 23 to 26 ft.,
spring-tides 48 ft. above low- water mark; and at low water an im-
mense tract is uncovered, so that it is possible to walk dryshod to
the Grand-Bey.

The town is hemmed in on all sides by the ramparts, and most
of its streets are steep, narrow, and tortuous. From the small Place
Chateaubriand, in front of the castle, we ascend to the centre of the
town by the Rue St. Thomas or the Rue St. Vincent (opposite the
gateway), and then turn to the left.

The Parish Church, formerly the cathedral, is built mainly in
the Gothic (15th cent.) and Renaissance styles, but some parts date
from the Transition period, and the elegant spire is modern. The
best part of the interior is the choir, which has a fine triforium and
three windows filled with modern stained glass. The ivory figure
of Christ (facing the pulpit), a modern tomb to the right, and other
sculptures are well executed, and several of the pictures are also
of some value J the latter, however, are badly lighted.

ST. SERVAN. 30. Route. 225

The street nearly opposite tte front of the church leads to another
small Place, embellished with a marble Statue of Luguay-Trouin
(p. 223), by Molknecht. — The Hotel de Ville, also in this square,
contains a small Musee (open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.,
1-4) and a Library (open on other days only, at the same hours).

The Sea-bathing Establishment lies beyond the castle, to the E.
of the town. The beach consists of fine sand, and slopes gradually,

b. Environs of St. Malo.

Comp. the Plan and the Map to the right of the Plan.

St. Servan. — Hotels. (Jeand Hotel Beli.evue, Grande Rue (St. Malo
eud); DE ITnion, Rue Daupliine 21, on the beach; dd, Pelican, Grande Rue.
Pension Primaveea (Miss Goldham), Rue Ville Pepin.

Steam Ferry to Dinard, every hour from the Port St. Pere (fares 50,
25, d5 c), returning at the hall-hours.

English Churchy RueChapitre; services at 11 and 5. English Physician^
Dr. Ashdown. — English Banker^ J. 0. Rorke, Rue Ville Pepin.

St. Servan^ formerly only a suburb of St. Malo, is now a separate
but uninteresting town with 12,240 inhabitants. It may be reached
from St. Malo by the road passing the station, or (better") by the
Pont Roulant at the mouth of the harbour. This bridge (fares, see
p. 224) moves upon rails laid at the bottom of the sea, and is drawn
from side to side of the harbour-mouth by means of a stationary
steam-engine on the St. Servan side. The platform for passengers
is 40 ft. above the rails. The handsome modern Mairie or Hotel de
Ville (tramway, p. 223) is at the top of the Grande Rue. To the S.
is the Church of Ste. Croix^ built in the 18-19th cent, and contain-
ing a handsome modern pulpit in carved stone and some mural
paintings by Duveau. Besides sharing the harbour of St. Malo,
St. Servan has two small harbours at the mouth of the Rance^ the
Port de Solidor and the Port St. Pere^ between which rises the 14th
cent. Towr c?e <SoZid';r (visitors admitted ; view). These harbours are
separated from the bay of Les Sablons'hY a rocky promontory, crown-
ed by a fort on the site of an ancient town called Aleth. The small
Bathing Establishment of St. Servan, with its casino, is situated on
the bay of Les Sablons, on the side next St. Malo. There is another,
even less pretentious, outside the town, near the Ranee.

Faram^. — Hotels. At Parami-Us-Bains. ahout 3/4 M. from St. Malo
by the Sillon (tramway) : Grand Hotel de Pakajie, adjoining the Casino,
first class, dej, 31/2, D- 41/2 fr. ; Dugdat-Trooin, R. with sea-view fiom
5 fr. — At Bochebonne, ahout 3/4 M. farther on : Hotel de la Plage (Eng-
lish landlady), pens, from 70 fr. per week; Quic-en-Geoigne, on the shore;
Continental; des Bains; de l'Ocean; de France; du Centre.

Sea-Baths at the new beach (Nouielle Plage) 1 fr. 40 c, at Roche-
bonne 1 fr. — Casino, at the new heach; adm. 1 fr. per day; a week 5,
fortnight 10, month 25 fr. ; for 2 pers., 10, 20, 40 fr.

Parame (4826 inhab.) is formed by three distinct parts: Pa-
rame-les- Bains, Rochebonne, both of recent origin, and the village
of Parame^ situated at a short distance from the sea, on the road to
Cancale (see p. 226). Parame-les-Bains consists mainly of the hotels

Baedekeb's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 15

226 Route 30. DINARD. Environs

and casino, with a paved terrace and a fine sandy beach, but the
surroundings are flat and shadeless, and there is no promenade ex-
cept the terrace. Rochebonne, 1^/4 M. from St. Malo, is more pleas-
antly situated and less expensive.

Rothineuf (Grand Hotel), I3/4 M. from Roclieljonne, and La Guimorais
(Hotel, moderate), a little farther on, are also sea-bathing resorts.

Diuard. — Hotels. Des Tekkasses , near the Casino , pens. 10-25,
dej. 4, D. 5 fr- incl. cider; du Casino; Grand Hotel de Dinakd, with a sea-
view, though at some distance from the beach; de la Plage, nearer the
beach; des Bains, in the village; d'Angletekee et de Provence, Rue
du Casino; *de la Vall^e, on the quay, pens. 8-13, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ;
DE LA Baie; Hot. Rest, de la Paix.

Sea-Baths. 'Bain complef 1 fr., to subscribers, 70 c. at the chief
establishment, less at the others. — Casino. Subscription for a week 17,
fortnight 25, month 85, season 55 fr. ; for two pers., 30, 45, 65, & 95 fr.

Steam Ferries to St. Malo (see p. 223) and to St. Servan (p. 224).

Omnibuses from the quay and from the station to St. Enogat, Si. Lnnaire
(75 c), and St. Briac (1 fr. ; see below). — Diligence thrice a week to (91/2 M.)
St. Jacut-de-la-Mer (p. 181} and (13V2 M.) St. Cast (La Garde; p. 181).

The Steamboats from St. Malo to Dinan (see p. 229) touch at Dinard
1/4 hr. after leaving St. Malo.

Dinard is a modern town, with 5095 inhah., picturesquely
situated on a rocky promontory on the left bank of the estuary of
the Ranee, opposite St. Malo and St. Servan. It is the leading sea-
bathing resort in Brittany owing to its attractive site, its spacious
sandy beach, its picturesque views, and its pleasant walks. The
environs are sprinkled with villas, and it is much frequented by
English visitors.

The Oreve de I'Ecluse., the chief bathing-beach, with the Casino,
faces the open sea, between the Poinfe de Dinard (to the S. of which
passengers from St. Malo land) and the promontory of La Malouine.
It may be reached either direct via the Grande Rue and the Rue de
I'Ecluse (to the right), or (preferable for walkers) by a footpath
ascending the Pointe de Dinard and then skirting the shore. —
The other bathing -establishment (Greve du Prieure) is on the bay
of Dinard. The Pointe de la Vicomte^ farther S., commands a flue
view of the estuary of the Ranee.

St. Enogat (Hdtel de la Mer ; des Etrangers et de St. Enogat, pens. 6-
7 fr., well spoken of; Furnished Villas), a large village about 3/-« M. from
Dinard, beyond the second promontory of La Malouine, is also a favourite
bathing-resort. — St. Lunaire (H6tel de la Plage; St. Lunaire; de Paris)
and St. Briac (Hotel des Panoramas , on the beach; du Centre)., i^/i and
31/2 M. farther to the E., also afford excellent bathing and beautiful views
of the rocky coast and islands. There are good golf-links (18 holes) at
St. Briac. Living at all these watering-places is more primitive but hardly
cheaper than at Dinard or St. Malo , as the sources of supply are more
limited. In all cases it is advisable to make enquiries beforehand.

c. Excursions from St. Malo.

Comp. the Maps to the right and left of the Plan at p. 222.
To Cancale, 9M., Brake in l'/2 br. (fare 2'/- fr. there and back) cvvrvs
sponding with the omnibus to La Gouesnitre (p. 222; 1 fr.). i:(aiii,<.r
sometimes ply to Cancale in (he season (there and back 3fr.).

of St. Mcdo. CANCALE. 30. Route. 227

The road passes Parame' (see p. 226) and (6 M.) St. Coulomb.

Cancale (Hotel de V Europe; du Centre; de France), a town with
6641 inhah., is magnificently situated on a height ahove the hay
of the same name, also called the bay of St. Michel. Its small har-
bour, known as La Houle, lies about ^2 M. to the S. The leading
industry of the town is the rearing of oysters, which enjoy a high
reputation. The oyster-beds cover a total area of 430 acres. The
Rockers de Cancale form an islet well seen from the neighbourhood
of the town. The height above the bay also commands a noble *FieitJ.

To Mont St. Michel, Railway to (28 M.) Pontorson (fares 5 fr. 75, 4 fr.
30, 3 fr. 15 c). Railway-Omnibus thence to (5V2 M.) Mont St. Michel (return-
fare 2V2fr-; exchange 'correspondance'- coupon for an omnibus-ticket at
the office at the exit); no time to lose. Other Omnibuses, 2 fr. or I'/'j fr.
(bargain advisable); Carriage (1-3 pers.), 10-12 fr. The entire journey
takes 3V4-3V2 hrs. — Steamers sometimes ply to Mont St. Michel in the
season (there and back 5 fr.).

From St. Malo to (15 M.) Dot, where we change carriages, see
p. 222. — 20 M. La Boussac; 25 M. Pleine-Fougeres, beyond which
we cross the Couesnon and the railway to Yitre. The Couesnon is
the boundary between Brittany and Normandy.

28 M. Pontorson [Hotel de I'Ouest; de Bretagne), a small sea-
port with 2455 inhab., at the mouth of the canalized Couesnon. It
is the junction of lines to Avranches (Granville; Cherbourg) and
to Vitre (see pp. 181 and 208).

The road to Mont St. Michel (5V2 M.) turns to the right at the
public fountain. The last portion runs along an embankment or
causeway, nearly ^UM. in length, constructed in 1879 across the
Bay of Mont St. Michel, to afford access to the village at all states
of the tide.

On the flat expanse of the Bay of St. Michel (100 sq. M.) the tide re-
cedes for a distance of 71/2 M., but rushes in again quicker than a horse
can gallop. There are numerous dangerous quicksands (none, hovrever,
near the Mont). Since 1856 nearly 50,000 acres have been reclaimed from
the sea here, and converted into pasture. Fine sand impregnated with
carbonate of lime (knovpn as 'tangue') is throvs^n up by the sea and is used
as manure by the peasants.

Mont St. Michel (^Poulard Atne, R. & A. 81/2, de'j. 21/2, D- 3 fr. ;
•^Poulard Jeune or St. Michel; Ridel) is a small village with 200 in-
hab., clinging to a curiously isolated rock, rising 160 ft. above the
'Greve' or sands at the end of the wide bay of the same name, about
1/2 M. from the shore. Round the foot of the rock run the ancient *For-
tifications, dating mainly from the 15th cent., and consisting of thick
and lofty walls, strengthened by towers and bastions. The summit
of the rock is occupied by the buildings of the ancient monastery,
and on the highest point of all is the church. The general effect is
singularly picturesque.

The *Abbey is reached by a flight of steps, beginning at the
highest part of the village, or (better) by the ramparts, which we
ascend opposite the Hotel Poulard. The ascent of 662 steps is

15*

22S Route 30. MONT ST. MICHEL. Excursions

made in about ^/ihv. The buildings, largely hewn out of the rock,
are of different forms and various periods, but most of them date
from the 12-13th centuries. The largest and most interesting is
La Merveille, to the right, at which the visit usually concludes.
Visitors are admitted daily in summer from 8 to 11 and from 12.30
to 4, 5, or 6, other seasons 9-11 and 12.30-4 (fee to the guide who
conductst he visitor).

The Benedictine Abbey of Mont St. Michel was founded in 709 by
St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, in obedience to the commands of the
Archangel Blichael, who appeared to him in a vision. The rock, pre-
viously known as Mons Tumba, had been a pagan sanctuary. The monks
were protected by Rollo and the succeeding rulers of Normondy, and in
1066 they sent six ships to assist "William in the conquest of England.
Pilgrims resorted to the rock in great numbers, and their pious gifts
greatly enriched the monastery. Learning also flourished here, and in the
12th cent, the abbey was known as the 'City of Books", from its extensive
collection of MSS. In 1203 Philip Augustus burned the monastery, then
an English possession, but he afterwards rebuilt it when he himself
became master of Normandy. Jlont St. Michel was the only Xorman
fortress that successfully defied Henry "V. of England. In 1254 St. Louis
visited the rock; and in 14G'J Louis XI. founded the knightly order of
St. Michel. Abuses and disorders began to prevail among the Benedictine
monks here, and in 1615 they were replaced by brethren of the order of
St. Maur, who remained until the Kevolution. The monastery was then
converted into a prison, but in 1863 it was restored to its religious uses
under the Bishop of Avranches. It now belongs to the state, at whose
expense it has been restored. The Abbey of St. Jlichaels Mount, in the
Bay of Penzance, was an ofl'shoot of Mont St. Michel.

We enter by the Chatelet^ a lofty donjon of the 15th cent., flanked
by two projecting turrets, and after visiting the Salle des Gardes
ascend the AbboVs Staircase and the Grand Degre to a platform
(245 ft.) known as the Saut Gauliier, from a prisoner who perished
in an attempt to escape in the 16th century. The adjoining Churchy
begun in 1020 in the Norman style, has undergone many modifica-
tions. The central tower, with a Gothic spire, has been rebuilt in
the original style, and since 1697 has been once more surmounted
by a gilded bronze statue of St. Michael. The choir is in the Gothic
style of the 15th cent.; the nave has been docked of three bays,
which are to be restored. The interior preserves few traces of its
once lavish decoration. In a chapel to the left of the choir is an
alabaster bas-relief of the 14th century. Another contains a mod-
ern silvered statue of St. Michael. The choir-stalls date from the
15th century. The outer gallery and the top of the tower are reached
by means of the 'staircase of lace'. — Crypt, see p. 229.

On quitting the church we find ourselves on a level with the
third story of *La Merveille ('the marvel'l , a huge building abut-
ting against the rock on the N. On this story we visit the *Cloisters^
a masterpiece of the 13th cent. (1225-28), forming a rectangle
27 yds. long by 15 yds. broad. They contain 220 columns of pol-
ished granite, 100 engaged in the walls and the others ranged in
double arcades, with graceful vaults, and embellished with exquisite
carvings, a beautiful frieze, and inscriptions. Adjacent is the Dor-

1

from St, Malo. MONT ST. MICHEL. 30. Route. 229

mitory, of the same epocli. — We next descend to the Promenoir
(12tli cent.), witli the Dungeon of La Balue^ the prison of Card. La
Balue (p. ^67) for two years, the Crypte de I'Aquilon (12th cent.),
various other dungeons, and a Crypt used as a cemetery. The Wheel
for hoisting provisions along an inclined plane is also shown. — On
the second floor of La Merveille are the "-'SaUe des Chevaliers, an
admirable specimen of 13th cent, architecture, 92 ft. long, with de-
pressed vaulting and a triple row of columns, and the ^Refectory, one
of the finest Gothic halls in France, also dating from the 13th cent,
and divided into two parts by columns. Before inspecting the re-
fectory visitors are usually conducted to the Crypte des Gros-Piliers^
beneath the choir of the church, so called from it? nineteen columns,
each 12 ft. in diameter. — On the lowest story of La Merveille are
the Almonry and the Cellar (1203), which are linown as the Mont^
gomeries, in memory of an unsuccessful attack by the Sire de Mont-
gomery, leader of the Huguenots.

In a lane to the right of the exit from the Abbey is a small local
Museum (1 fr.), including representations of various more or less authentic
scenes from the history of the Mont. — The Tr4sor de St. Michel (adm.
50 c), lower down, is an exhibition of religious objects connected with
pilgrimages, etc.

The tour of the rock (1/2 hr.) can seldom be made dry-shod, as there is
usually a certain depth of water near the causeway. Visitors who desire to
walk on the sands should carefully ascertain the hours of the tides (p. 227).

To Sinan. a. Bt the Range, I71/2 M., Steamboats in 2 hours in the sea-
son, starting daily, at hours determined by the tide (see the bills), from
the quay near the Porte St. Vincent; ivova. Dinai-d, V* hr. later. Fares (sub-
ject to alterations): 2-3 fr., according to class-, return-tickets (when the
tide permits) V2-2 fr. extra. Dej. on board 21/2, D. 3 fr.

This is a very agreeable excursion, though the beauties of the Ranee
do not, perhaps, quite justify their local reputation. The banks are pictur-
esque, but hardly bold enough in comparison with the breadth of the
stream, except in the neighbourhood of Dinan, and the general effect wants
variety. It is, therefore, hardly advisable both to go and come by the river,
especially as the interval allowed by the steamer is not long enough for
the proper inspection of the interesting town of Dinan, and as part of the
return-journey is made after dark. The steamers also are often late.

The steamer touches at Dinard (p. 226). "We have a fine retro-
spect of St. Malo, and then (to the left) of St. Servan, with the
Tour de Solidor, the roadstead, etc. On the Rocher de Bizeux, between
St. Servan and the Pointe de la Vicomte (p. 226), rises a colossal
figure of the Virgin (40 ft. high), by Caravaniez. Farther on, to
the right, appear La Richardais, the Pointe de Cancaval, and Mont
Maria. The little tower rising from the river is named the Tour des
Zehres, The wide Bate de St. Jouan, and other picturesque inlets
appear to the left. St. Suliac, on a small sheltered bay to the left,
has an interesting church of the 13th century. Behind us, to the
right, is Le Minihic. To the left is the Pointe du Garrot, and on the
succeeding height, La Ville-es-Nonais.

The channel contracts at the Pointe St. Jean, which is about
halfway to Dinan; opposite rises the picturesquely-situated Chateau

230 Route 30. DIN AN. Excursions

de la Roche. The river again expands. In the distance, to the left,
rises the church of Pleudihen. To the right, ahove a mill, lies
PLou'er. The modern tower of Chene-Vert is a picturesque object
as we look hack upon it. To the left is Mordreuc, The channel
again narrows considerably and the hanks become wooded. To the
left is the attractive little valley of the Prat. Above the wooded hank
rise rocky heights. At a curve of the river we see the imposing Via-
duct on the railway from Dol to Dinan, 105 ft. high. Fine clifif-view
behind us and to the left. A little beyond the viaduct, and about
2 hrs. from St. Malo, is the Lock of Le Chdtelier. The surplus water
of the river sometimes escapes in a pretty waterfall (to the left).
The banks now become low and the scenery monotonous. To the
left is the fine Chateau de Grillemont; to the right are cliffs, and in
front appears Dinan. Farther on we see, to the left, more wooded
cliffs and obtain a picturesque view of the town and viaduct.

jDinan, see below. Omnibus to the station, on the other side of
the town, 1 fr.

b. By RAiLWAr, 32 M., in 2 hrs. (6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 85, 3 fr. 55 c).

A junction-line, 9 M. shorter, runs between La Gouesniere-Cancale, the
first station (p. 222), and Miniac-Morvan (p. 181), but there is no difference
made either in the time or the fare. The branch passes Cftdteauneuf,
with an old ruined castle.

From St. Malo to (15 M.) Dol, see p. 222. From Dol to (32 M.)
Dinan, see p. 181 ; this line is a continuation towards the W. of that
from Pontorson (p. 227).

32 M. Dinan (see Plan, p. 222). — Hotels. *De Bketagne, Place
Duclos, R. 3-9, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 3V.; fr. ; du Commerce, d^j. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ^
DE LA PosTE, Placc DuguescUu ; D Angleterke, Rue Thiers^ de TEurope,
at the station, dej. 2, D. 27-2 fr. — Miss Waller's Fension, Place Duguesclin 4.

— Railwai/ Restaurant. — Cafti Cotitinental, Rue Thiers.

Steamboat to St. Malo, starting from the harbour near the old bridge,
at variable hours, announced on bills posted in the town (comp. p. 227).

English Church, in the Petits-Fosses (services at 11 and C)^ chaplain,
liev. W. H. Bray.

Dinan, an ancient town of 10,620 inhab., with curious and pictur-
esque houses and streets, is finely situated on a height on the left
bank of the Ranee. The railway runs on the right bank. — Comp.
the Plan to the left of the Plan of St. Malo (p. 224).

Quitting the station, we follow the Rue Thiers to a cross-street.
To the left diverges the fine promenade known as the Grands-Fosses,
and farther on, beyond the little Place de Bretagne, the Petits-Fosses
diverges to the right. On both sides considerable remains of the
Ramparts of the 13th and 14th cent, are still extant. Near the end
of the Petits-Fosse's is the chateau (see p. 231). The suburb to the
right is largely inhabited by the English colony (about 350).

From the harbour we ascend to the viaduct, whence we reach the
centre of the town, and visit the promenades and the chateau last.

— In the Place Duclos is the Hotel de Ville, a modern building,
containing a small but interesting Musee , with collections of all
kinds (antiquities, coins, funeral monument?, objects of natural

from St. Malo. DINAN. 30. Route. 23 I

history, etc.). — The street to the left leads to the Place Duguesclin,
embellished with a poor modern statue of the Connetable Duguesclin,
who recaptured the town from the English in 1359. The Place
occupies the site of the field in which he defeated in single combat
an English knight, named by the Breton chroniclers 'Sir Thomas of
Cantorbery'. — Farther on, to the right, is the Castle, now a prison,
the donjon of which (112 ft. in height) is usually shown to visitors
on application. It is partly built into the ancient walls and belongs
to the same epoch (14th cent.). The exterior of this ancient pile is
best viewed from the Petits-Fosse's, a little farther on.

The Rue du Chateau leads to the most picturesque parts of the
town, skirting the base of steep rocks, till it reaches tlie banks of
the Ranee, the wooded channel of which offers various attractive
views. The river is spanned by an imposing ston&* Viaduct, 270 yds.
long and 130 ft. high. — Thence we ascend direct to the centre of the
town, the narrow streets of which contain many quaint old houses.

The church of St. Sauveur, in the neighbourhood, to the left, is
a curious edifice, the right side of which is Romanesque, the left
Gothic. The Romanesque portal is unfortunately in very bad pre-
servation. The right wall is adorned on the exterior with arcades
and mouldings, and a tasteful Gothic chapel was added at the third
bay in the 15th century. There is but one aisle, consisting of the
Gothic part of the W. arm. The choir is also Gothic. The holy-
water basin, supported by Caryatides, to the left of the entrance,
dates from the 12th century. In the N. transept is a stone marking
the spot where the heart of Bertrand Duguesclin is buried; and in
one of the choir-chapels, on the same side, are two tasteful Gothic
credences. On the other side is a modern tomb in granite. — The
cemetery of this church is now a Public Garden.

The narrow street opposite the left transept is continued by the
Rue Croix-Quart to the old Rue da Jerzual, leading to the Porte du
Jerzual, one of the most curious parts of the old town, Gothic out-
side and Romanesque within. A little to the left is the Porte St. Malo,
a similar but less interesting structure.

The street leading to the S. from the Porte St. Malo debouches
in the Rue de I'Horloge, near the 15th cent. Tour de I'Horloge.
Farther on, a little to the left, is the Place des Cordeliers, beyond
which is the Grande Rue, leading back to the Hotel de Ville.

St. Malo, to the right, near the latter, is a large church of the
15th cent., the W. arm of which was rebuilt in 1855-65. In the
interior is a large modern painting by Archenault, representing
Christ triumphing over Death and Sin. The handsome high-altar
has bas-reliefs from the life of St. Malo, and a statue of that saint,
by Savary. In the central choir-chapel is a tomb of the 15th cent.;
the holy-water basin dates from the same period, and the pulpit is
also ancient.

About 3/4 M. to the S.E. of Dinan is Lihon, witli a ruined chateau of
tbe 12-13th cent., and the church and other remains of a priory of the

232 Route 31. SABLE. From Paris

13th century. — The Chateau de la Coninnais (15th cent.) is picturesquely
situated about IV4 M. to the E. Other excursions may be made to the
chateau of La Bellikre &I2 M.), formerly the residence of Duguesclin's wife,
the Lady Tiphaine, with its curious octagonal chimneys ; and to the chateau
of La Garaye, famous for the charity and self-sacrifice of Claude Toussaint,
Comte de la Garaye, and his wife, whose story has been pleasantly versi-
fied by Mrs. Norton.

Railway to Lamballe, joining the line to Brest, see p. ISl.

A branch- railway, 13 M. long, runs from Dinan to Dinard (p. 226),
passing St. Samson^i Fleslia-Plouer, and Pleuriuit. — Another run- to the
S., to (21 M.) La Brohiniere (p. 213), on the line from Rennes to Brest.

31. From Paris to Nantes.

a. Vi^ Le Mans and Angers.

246 M. Railway in 71/3-13^4 hrs. (fares 44 fr. 45, 30 fr. 5, 19 fr. CO c).
The trains start from the Gare Montparnasse (see PI. G, 16, p. 1; Chemin
de Fer de TOuest, left bank) or the Gare St. Lazare (railway of the right
bank ; PI. C, 18); comp. p. 194. — From LeMans io Angers, 60M. in i^U-Z^ji hrs.
(fares 11 fr. 10, 7 fr. 40, 4 fi-. 85 c). — From Angers to Nantes, 541/2 M., in
IV2-3 hr.s. (fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 35 c).

From Paris to (131 M.) Le Mans, see p]). 194-200. — On leaving
Le Mans, our line crosses the Sarthe and diverges to the left from the
lines to Rennes and Alen^on, affording a fine view of the town.
Beyond (139 M. from Paris) Voivres we again cross the Sarthe. —
143 M. La Suze (Hotel du Commerce).

Fkom La Suze to La Fl^che (for Saumur aud Angers), 19 M., railway
in 50-55 min. (fares 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. -iO, 1 fr. GO c). — Beyond the village
of (I2V2 M.) Villaines our line is joined, on the right, by a branch-rail-
way from Sable (see below). Beyond (16 M.) Verron the railway to Angers
diverges on the right (p. 214). — 19 M. La Fleche (Bdtel de VLnage), a
town with 10,477 inhab., situated on the Loir, is chielly famous for its
Prytanie, a military college for the sons of officers. It occupies an old
Jesuit college, founded by Henri IV in 1604, the most famous pupil of
which was Descartes (1596-1650), the philosopher. The market-place is adoru-
ed with a bronze statue of Henri IV, by Bonnassieux.

From La Fleche to Angers^ see p. 244-, to Auhigni (Tours), see p. 204;
to Sahli, see p. 233.

From La Fleche the line is prolonged to (33V2 M.) Saumur, passing
(I2V2 M.) Baugi, a small town on the Couesnon, with an old chateau of the
15th cent., and (24 M.) Z-o/igru^, another small town, beyond which the line
joins the railway from Chartres to Saumur (p. 198).

Beyond La Suze our line crosses the Sarthe for a third time.
1571/2 M. Juigne-sur-Sarthe, with a fine chateau of the 17th century.

1(51 M. SsibU( Buffet; *HdtelSt. Martin), a town with 6 118 inhab.,
pleasantly situated on the Sarthe, has an 18th cent. Chateau and a
ruined Castle. In the vicinity are large quarries of black marble.

About 2 M. to the N.E. (omnibus) is Solesmes {"Hdtel Prian), celebrated
for its Benedictine Abbey, which was suppressed by government in 1880, like
the other unrecognized conveuts, and is no longer open to the public. The
abbey in itself is uninteresting, but its church contains two chefs-d ivuvre
of sculpture dating from 14U6-1550, representing the Entombment of Christ
and the ^Entombment of the Virgin. These consist of two 'grottoes',
containing groups of eight and fifteen life-size figures respectively, besides
various subsidiary figures, and adorned with bas-reliefs and other sculp-
tural ornamentation. Some of the faces, especially Mary Magdalen's, are
wonderfully expressive. The figure of Joseph of Arimathiva is supposed
to be a portrait of King Rene (d. 1480).

to Nantes. ANOENIS. 31. Route. 233

Feom Sable to La Fl6che, 20 M., railway in 1 lir. — The train passes
tlirough a tunnel and crosses the Sarthe. La Chapelle-du-Chene owes its
name to a chapel dedicated to the Virgin (recently rebuilt), which has
been a pilgrimage-resort since the beginning of the 16th century. Before
reaching (IBV2 M.) Verron our line joins the line from La Suze (see p. 232). —
20 M. La Fl^che, see p. 232.

Railway to Nantes via Segrd, see p. 234 5 to SilU-le-Quillaume^ p. 204.

Beyond Sable the railway to Angers crosses the Sarthe for the last
time, but continues to follow its valley for some distance. 179 M.
Tierce., to the left, with a fine modern church built in the Gothic
style of the 14th century. We cross the Loir^ an affluent of the
Sarthe, before reaching (18472 M.) 8t-Sylvain-Briollay. —
I8772 M. Ecouftant is situated at the confluence of the Sarthe and
the Maytnne , which combine to form the Maine. Passengers for
Segre and for the Gare St. Serge at Angers (see p. 238) change
carriages here. We have a fine view to the right of Angers, with the
towers of St. Maurice and St Joseph.

At (190^2 M.) La Maitre-EcoLe we join the line from Orle'ans
(p. 237). — 191 M. Angers (principal station), see p. 238.

Our line descends the vaUey of the Maine, which it crosses before
reaching the next station. 196 M. La Pointe^ near the confluence of
the Maine and the Loire. The line henceforth follows the right bank
of the latter. Fine views of the opposite bank. Beyond (198 M.)
Les Forges., to the right, we see a handsome modern chateau. —
201 M. La Possonnitre (Buffet).

From La Possonniere to (24 M.) Cholei^ see Baedeker's South -Western
France.

204 M. St. Georges -sur-Loire (Hot. de la Gare). The town, with
a ruined abbey, lies 2 M. to the N. of the station.

About 1 M. to the N.E. is the Chateau de Servant., dating from the
15-lSth cent., one of the finest of the numerous chfiteaux of the district.
The chapel contains the monument of the Marquis de Vaubrun, one of
its former owners, with good figures by Coyzevox.

Beyond (209 M.) Champtoce., to the right, are the ruins of its
15th cent, chateau, once the abode of the wicked Gilles de Laval,
Seigneur de Retz, notorious for his excesses and cruelty. He was
known as 'Barbe Bleue' and is supposed to be the original of the
Blue Beard of the nursery tale. He was executed at Nantes in 1440.

From (217 M.j Varades an omnibus runs to (IV4 M.) St. Florent-
le-Vieil^ at which is the fine monument of the Vendean general
Bonchamp (1769-93), by David d' Angers. 22OV2 M. Anetz. The
railway now quits the Loire.

225 M. Ancenis (Hot. des Voyageurs), a town with 5048 inhab.,
has a chateau of the 18th cent., with parts dating from the 15th,
situated to the left, on the bank of the Loire. Joachim du Bellay,
the poet (1524-60), a native of the town, is commemorated by a
monument here (1894). — 231 M. Oudon still preserves the fine
donjon of its castle, dating from the 14-15th cent., but recently re-
stored (to the right).

2M Route 31. SEGRE;. From Paris

Ghamptoceaux , on the left bank, about IV2 M. distant, contains the
I'uins of a huge raediseval castle, and a church with works of art by Main-
dron (180i-8i), born at Ghamptoceaux, and others.

The valley of the Loire now becomes more irregular and the line
threads two short tunnels. On a height on the left hank rises the
Chateau de la Varenne. — • Several small stations. — In entering
(246 M.) Nantes (p. 245) we pass under the railway to Paris via
Segre (see below), with the line to La Roche-sur-Yon and its two
bridges on the left, and the line to Chateaubriant (see below) on
the right.

b. Via Sabl6 and Segre.

(St. Nazaire. Lorlent. Quimper.)

246V2 M. Railway in 8-I3V2 hrs. (fares as by RR. a and c). The
trains start from the Gare St. Lazare or the Gare Montparnasse (see the
Indicateur) and reach Kantes at the Gare de TEtat (p. 245), not at the
Gare d'Orleans. The direct trains to St. Nazaire and Lorient-Quiinper run
via Segre (see p. 252 and R. ^).

From Paris to (161 M.) Sable ^ see p. 232. The line to Angers
now diverges to the left. 166 M. Les Agets-St-Brtce; 175 M. Gennes-
Longuefuye, the junction of a line to Laval (p. 204).

180 M. Ch&.teau - Gontier (^Hutel de I'Europe^ on the quay), a
town of 7227 inhab., pleasantly situated on the right bank of the
Mayenne, with chalybeate springs and a bathing establishment. The
church of St. Jean^ in the Romanesque style of the 11th cent., but
freely restored at a later date, is the only relic of its castle.

The line now crosses the Mayenne, and passes (to the left) the
Chateau of St. Ouen, dating from the 15th century. — 185 '/o M.
Chemaze; branch-line to (81/2 M.) Craon, see p. 206. — 191 M. La
Ferriere. We cross the Oudon near Segre'.

195 M. Segre (De La Poste; de la Gare), with 3720 inhab., is the
junction of a line to Angers and of the direct line to St. Nazaire.

From Segrk to St. oS'azairk (Lorient- Quimper), 82 M., railway in
31/2-41/2 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 10, 10 fr. 25, 6 fr. (Jo c). — 16 M. Pouanci, a town
with 3350 inhab., on the Verzie^ possesses a ruined castle of the 13-14th
cent, and a fine modern chateau. Branch-line to (15 M.) Craoii (p. 206).

26 M. Chateaubriant (Buffet; Hotel de la Poste; du Commerce), a town
with 7000 inhab., on the Chere, is known for an edict against the Prot-
estants issued here by Henri II (1551). It contains an interesting Chateau,
consisting of the remains of a meditxival castle and of another built be-
tween 1524 and 1538, now occupied by the prison, various public offices,
and a small Music. In the N.W. suburb, Biri, is the old priory-church
of St. Jean (i'lih. cent.). — A branch-line runs hence to (26'/2 M.) Messac
(p. 212), via liougi, Erci-en-Lamie, and Bain-de - Bretagne; and a steam
tramway plies to (U V2 ^) '^t- JuUen-de- VouvuJites. Railways to Vitre and
Rennes, see pp.208, 212; to Xantes, see p. 252.

From (33'/2 M.) St. Vincent- des-Landes a branch-line runs to (2972 M.)
Redon, via (21 M.) Massirac, the junction of a branch-railway to Rennes.
This is the shortest route from Paris to Lorient and Quiniper (R. 34).

At (531/2 M.) Blain are the remains of a chateau (13-lGth cent.) of the
Olissons and Rohans. We now cross the canal from Nantes to Brest, and
beyond (641/2 M.) Canipbon we intersect the railway from Nantes to Brest.
78 M. Besni- Pont- Chateau is connected by a short branch-line with (121/2 31-)
Pont- Chateau, on the Xantes and Brest railway (p. 253). At (79 M.) Montoir

to Nantes. CINQ-MARS. 31. Route. 235

we join the railway from Nantes to St. Nazaire. — 82 M. St. Nazaire,
see p. 252.

200 M. Chaze-sur-Argos. — 204 M. Angrie-Loire. Angrie, to
the left of the line, has a fine modern chateau. — 208 M. Candt, a
small town on the Erdre^ the valley of which we now ascend for some
distance, passing several small stations. — 215 M. St. Mars-la-JaUte.,
with a chateau of the 18th cent.; 222 M. Tellle ; 238 M. Carquefou,
with a handsome Gothic church. — 243 '/2 M. Doulon^ also reached
by tramway from Nantes. — We soon cross one of the arms of the
Loire, obtaining a view of Nantes to the right.

2467-2 M. Nantes, Gare de I'Etat, see p. 245.

c. Vi& Orleans and Tours.

265 M. Okleans Railway (PI. G, 25; p. 1) in 7V2-17V2 lirs. (fares 44 fr.
45, 30 fr. 5, 19 fr. 60 c). — From Tours to Angers, 67 M., in 2-3V2 lirs.
(fares 12 fr. 20, 8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30 e.)- From Tours to Nantes, 12 M., in 4-7 hrs.
(fares 22 fr. 5, 16 fr. 90, 9 fr. 65 c). — Passengers by the express-train,
with through-tickets, go direct from St. Pierre-des-(5orps (p. 266) to Sa-
vonnieres without entering Tours. Finest views to the left.

From Paris to (75 M.) Orleans and (145 M.) Tours, see R. 35.

— On leaving Tours , our line diverges to the right from the lines
to Orleans and Bordeaux, passes underneath the line to Les Sables
d'Olonne, and diverges to the left from the lines to Vendome and Le
Mans. To the right flows the Loire, to the left the Cher. — 153^/2 M.
(from Paris) Savonnieres has some interesting 'caves gouttiores'
(dropping caves), open to visitors (1-4 pers. 2 fr.). — We then cross
the Loire, not far from its confluence with the Cher. The towers
of Cinq-Mars come into view on the right.

158 M. Cinq-Mars, a village with many of its houses cut out
of the rock , as at other places on this line. It contains the ruins of
the chateau of the Marquis of Cinq-Mars, the favourite of Louis XIII.,
who was beheaded at Lyons in 1642, along with his friend De Thou,
for having conspired against Richelieu. About 1 M. to the E. stands
the Pile de Cinq-Mars, a solid tower without doors or windows, 95 ft.
high and about 15 ft. in diameter, crowned by four small pyra-
mids; it is probably of Roman origin and is supposed to be a funer-
al monument or a beacon marking the confluence of the Loire and
Cher. The line still continues to skirt the right bank of the Loire.

— 161 M. Langeais (Lion d'Or) has a * Chateau regarded as a
masterpiece of 15th cent, military architecture (visitors admitted).
Near it are the ruins of a donjon of the 10-llth centuries. —
I66V2 M. St. Patrice. The Chateau de Rochecotte, V2 M. to the W.,
contains some artistic collections.

From (174 M.) Port-Boulet branch - railways run to Chateau-
renault (p. 270) and to (9 M.) Chinon (p. 284). — 179 M. Va-
rennes-sur-Loire. Before reaching Saumur we see, to the left, the
bridge carrying the Chemin de Fer de I'Etat across the Loire (p. 198).

184 M. Saumur. — Hotels. Budan, at the bridge, opposite the the-
atre; ''de Londkes, Rue d'Orle'ans 48; de la Paix, Rue Dacier. — Cafes. Be

236 JSowfc 32. SAUMUR. From Paris

la Paix, opposite the hotel of that name; de la Renaissance, du Commerce,
Eue d'Orle'ans 45 and 17.

Cabs. Per drive IV2, per hr. 2 fr. — Tramways from the Gare d'Or-
le'ans through the town to Fontevrault (p. 237) and to St-Hilaire-Sl-Florent.
21/2 M. to the N.W.

Post & Telegraph Office, adjoining the Cafe de la Paix.

Hallway Stations. Oare dWrUans (Buffet), on the right hank, 1/2 M.
from the town proper (omn.), for the trains of the Paris & Bordeaux Rail-
way; Oare de rEtat, on the other side of the town, IV4 M. from the Gare
d'Orleans, for the slow trains of the Ligne de TEtat (comp. p. 198).

Saumur, an old town witli 18,440 inhab., is situated on the left
bank of the Loire and on an island in the river. At the end of the
16th cent, it was one of the chief strongholds of Protestantism in
France, and it was the seat of a Protestant university previous to
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. At that time (1685) its
prosperity greatly declined, owing to the expulsion of the Hugue-
nots, but it began to revive in 1768, when a large Cavalry School
was founded here. Its sparkling wines have some reputation. The
town proper is backed on the S.E. by a hill crowned with wind-
mills and a Castle of the 11th, 13th, and 16th cent, (uninteresting).

Leaving the Gare d'Orle'ans, we cross the river and the island,
on which are the ruins of a Chateau of the Queen of Sicily, built hy
King Rene of Anjou (15th cent.). We enter the town by the Place
de la Bilange, at the ends of the Rues d'Orleans and de Bordeaux,
which traverse the whole town. To the left stands the handsome
Theatre, built in 1864. Behind it is the Gothic Hotel de Ville,
mainly of the 16th cent., containing a small museum (open on
Sun. & Thurs., 12-4; closed in Sept.; entr. in the street to the
left). Adjacent (No. 3, Rue Cours St. Jean) is the entrance to
the pretty Chapelle St. Jean^ in the Romanesque and Gothic styles,
with line vaulting (when closed, apply at 25 Rue St. Jean). — The
Rue St. Jean leads to the left to the church of St. Pierre, a building
of the 12th cent., mth a fagade of the 17th cent, and a large chapel
in the Renaissance style. The S. transept ends in a fine Roman-
esque portal. The beautiful choir-stalls date from the 15th century.
The sacristy contains two fine pieces of tapestry (16th cent). —
About V2 M. to the E. is Notre-Dame-des-Ardilliers, a domed church
of the 16-17th cent, (interesting interior), at the foot of the Butte
des Moulins (view of the Loire).

The quarter at the foot of the hill, beyond St. Pierre, contains
the Protestant Church (in the classical style), the College, the
Jardin des Plantes, and Notre-Dame-de-i)^(intilly. The exterior of
this church is uninteresting, with the exception of the portal, which
belongs to the original edifice but has been spoiled. The interior,
however, partly Romanesque (ll-12th cent.) and partly Gothic,
is noteworthy and contains some important works of art (bas-
reliefs, tapestry of the 15-18th cent., an oratory made for Louis XI.,
etc.). — The street opposite this church passes near the Gare de
I'Etat and ends near the Pont Foucard, which we cross to reach

to Nantes. FONTEVRAULT. 31. Route. 237

Bagneux (see below). To re-enter the town we keep to the
right.

The Ecole de Cavalerie, a handsome building near the river, a
little below the town, contains about 400 pupils in training as
cavalry officers and riding-masters. Equestrian Exhibitions ('Car-
rousels') are given in the latter half of Aug. on the Chardonnet,
the large exercise-ground in front of the barracks. — The Church
of St. Nicholas dates from the 12th cent, but has been modernized.

Beyond the Pont Foucard, which spans the Thouet, an affluent of the
Loire, at the end of the Rue de Bordeaux (3/4 M. from the theatre), liea
a suburb containing a handsome modern church in the Romanesque style.
The road diverging at this church leads to Bagneux (3/4 M. from the bridge),
with a Dolmen^ which is one of the largest in existertce. It is C5 ft. long
and 22 ft. wide, with an average height of 9 ft., and is composed of 16 ver-
tical and 4 horizontal stones (apply to the custodian, in an adjoining house).

Fkom Saumdr to Fonteveault, JO M., steam-tramway thrice daily in
70 min. (fares 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c). The cars start at the Gare d'Orl^ana,
traverse the Place de rilotel-de-Ville, and follow the left bank of the
Loire, passing several small stations. — 10 M. Fontevrault (Lion cfOr)
possesses the remains of the celebrated Abbey of that name, founded in
the 11th cent, by Robert d'Arbrissel. It comprised both a monastery and
a nunnery, filled by members of the aristocracy, with an abbess at the
head of the joint establishment. It is now used as a prison, and only
the unoccupied parts are open to visitors. The Church., which was built
between 1101 and 1119 in the style of the cathedral of Angouleme, has
only one of its original five cupolas remaining. Henry II. and Richard I.
of England, with various members of their family, were interred in this
church, but the tombs have been rifled and destroyed. Four fine statues
of the l3tb cent., however, still remain, representing these two Plantagcnet
monarchs, Eleanor of Guienne (wife of Henry), and Isabella of Angouleme.
The Cloisters, the Befectory, and the Chapter House (16th cent.) are also
interesting. The remarkable Tour d''Evrault, formerly the kitchen, belongs
to the 12th century.

From Sauniur'to Chartres (Paris), see p. 198; to La Flhhe, p. 232. —
To Niort (Bordeavx), see Baedeker's South -Western France.

Beyond Saumur the railway skirts the Levee de la Loire., a huge
embankment 40 M. long, w-hich, however, in spite of its great size,
has not always been able to protect the country from the terrible
inundations of the river; it was originally constructed between the
9th and 13th centuries. — 195 M. Les Hosiers.

From Les Rosiers an omnibus runs to (2 M.) Gennes (fare SO c), a
village situated on the left bank of the Loire. About 2 M. farther up the
river is Cunault., with a magnificent Romanesque church, adorned with
fine mural paintings. The elaborate capitals of the columns deserve
attention. At Treves, 1 31. farther on, is a noble Keep, 100 ft. high.

Beyond (QOOM.) St.Mathurin the railway gradually recedes from
the Loire as it approaches Angers.

At (208 M.) Trelaze, a village with 5147 inhab., are the prin-
cipal slate-quarries in the neighbourhood of Angers, to which an
interesting visit may be made. Farther on we catch sight of the
towers of the cathedral, to the right, and join the railway to Paris
via Le Mans. — 212 M. Angers (Buffet), see p. 238. — Thence to
Nantes, see pp. 233, 234.

238

32. Angers.

stations. Si. Laud (PI. E, 5; Buffet), the principal station, to the S.,
belonging to the Compagnie d Orleans, hut also used by the trains of the
Western Railway (Chemin de Fer de lOuest; see R. 31); St. Serge (PI.
D, 1), to the N. , belonging to the Compagnie de TOuest, the station for
the railway to Segre and Laval; La Maitre-Ecole (beyond PI. G, 3; no
cabs), to tlie E., about the same distance as the others from the centre of
the town, the station for the State Line (Ligne de TEtat) to Loudun and
Poitiers and also used by the Western Railway (see above).

Hotels. Grand-Hotel (PI. a; E, 3), Place du Ralliement, R., L., & A.
3-7, dej. 3, D. 4 fr., well spoken of-, d'Anjou (PI. c; F, 4), Place de Lor-
raine , similar charges ; Cheval Blaxc (PI. b ; E, 4) , Rue St. Aubin 12,
nearer the station; de Londees (PI. d ; C, 4), Quai Ligny 13, pens. 71/2 fr. ;
Hotel & Restaurant St. Jdlien, Place du Ralliement, R. from 2 fr,; de
LA Gare, opposite the Gare St. Laud, plain.

Cafes in the Place du Ralliement, at the Grand-Hotel , and at the
theatre ; Grand Caf& du Bo^ilevard^ Boul. de Saumur.

Cabs. With one horse, per drive 75 c, per hr. IV2 fr., at night (10-6)
IV2 and 2 fr. ; with two horses, IV2, 2Vz, 2, and 8 fr.

Electric Tramways. From the Gare St. Laud (PI. E, 5) to the Gare
St. Serge (PI. D, 1) via the Place du Ralliement (PI. E, 3) or via the Boule-
vards; to the Route de Paris (PI. G, 1). — From the Place du Ralliement
(PI. E, 3) to the Place Lionnaise (PI. A, 2); to the Madeleine (beyond PI.
F, 9, 4), two routes; to the Ginie (on the S.) via the Gave St. Laud ("P1.E,5);
to (33/4 M.) Trilazi (p. 244) ; to (3 M.) Ponts-de-C& (p. 244) and (41/2 M.) Erigni.
Fares 10 c, 15 c. with correspondance; outside the town 20 and 25 c.

Post and Telegraph Office, Place du Ralliement.

United States Consular Agent, J. H. Ltmeau, Esq.

Angers, the Andegaoia of the Romans, afterwards the capital of
Anjou, and now the capital of the Diparttment de Maine-et- Loire,
is an ancient and prosperous town with 77,164 inhab., advantage-
ously situated on the navigable river Maine , which joins the Loire
5 M. farther down. The town proper lies on the left bank, and the
suburb of La Doutre on the right bank. Angers was formerly very
badly built and was known as the 'Black Town' on account of its
sombre appearance, but in the 19th cent, it underwent an almost
complete transformation. Its ancient ramparts were replaced by
handsome boulevards adjoined by modern suburbs, new streets were
opened up, others were widened and straightened, and numerous
large edifices, quays, and bridges were constructed.

The history of Angers is practically identical with that of Anjou, one
of the great fiefs of France , the historical prominence of which, out of
all keeping with a district so destitute of geographical individuality, is
due, as Mr. Freeman remarks, almost entirely to the energy and marked
character of its rulers. Among the most illustrious Counts of Anjou may
be mentioned Robert the Strong (d. 866), a valiant adversary of the !Kor-
mans and founder of the Capet family; Foulques Xera or Fulk the Black
(d. 1040); and Foulques V., who became King of Jerusalem in 1131. In
1127 Geoffrey Plantagenet, son of Fulk V., married the Empress Matilda,
and the couiitship of Anjou passed into the possession of England on the
accession of their son King Henry II. Plantagenet. In 1204, however, An-
jou was reunited to France by I'iailip Augustus, who wrested it from the
"feeble John Lackland. In 1246 the province was given by Louis IX. to
his brother Charles, afterwards King of the Two Sicilies. It next passed
I0 the house of Valois, wa.s assigned as an apanage to Louis, sou of Kin'^
John II. (1356), and descended to Rene of Anjou (p. 242), at whose death
it was definitely annexed to France by Louis XI. (1480). From that time

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Angers lias been a mere provincial town, suffering severely, like other
tovs^ns, from the Wars of Religion (1560-98) , of the League (1582) , and
of La Vendee (1793), but otherwise playing no important part in history.
It has now an extensive trade in slate. The celebrated sculptor Jean Pierre
/)a«id, generally known as David d^ Angers (1788-1856; p. 244), and the
chemist Chevreul (1786-1889) were natives of Angers. The Duke of Wel-
lington and the Earl of Chatham received part of their education at Angers
in a military college which has since been removed to Saumur (p. 237).

The Gare St Laud (PI. E, 5) lies on the S. side of the town.
From the Place de la Gare we first proceed to the N.W. to the Place
de la Visitation (PI. D, E, 5) and then turn to the right into the
Rue des Lices (PI. E, 5, 4), which crosses the Boulevard du Roi-
Rene (p. 242) and passes between the tower of vSt. Auhin and the
Prefecture, hoth relics of a Pienedictine abbey of St. Aubin.

The Tour St. Aubin (PI. E, 4) is a good example of the type of
tower usual in the S.W. of France at the beginning of the (iothic
period, consisting of a square base surmounted by an octagonal
story, with four turrets at the springing of the spire. In the court-
yard of the Prefecture (PI. E, 4), the entrance to which is in the
street to the right, is a screen of fine arches of the ll-12th cent.,
decorated with sculpture and painting, which Mr. Fergusson de-
scribes as unrivalled even in France 'as a specimen of elaborate
exuberance in barbarous ornament'. The other parts of the building
date from the 17th and 19th centuries. — A little to the N. of the
Prefecture is the ancient Church of St. Martin (PI. E, 4) , said to
date from the 9th century. It is now a mere fragment, but possesses
details of great antiquarian interest. — The Ru e St. Aubin (PI. E, 4),
at the end of the Rue des Lices, leads W. to the cathedral. From it
diverges the Rue Voltaire (PI. E, 3,4), which ends behind the theatre,
near the Place du Ralliement, in the centre of the town (p. 244).

The *Cathedral of St. Maurice (PI. D, 3, 4) is an interesting
Romanesque and Gothic building dating from the 12-13th cent.,
except the spires of the two flanking toM'^ers of the W. front and
the whole of the tower between them, which were added in the
16th century. The eight statues of warriors on the central tower,
which is surmounted by an octagonal dome, also date from the 16th
century. The Fagade^ originally too narrow, has been farther spoiled
by the addition of this tower, but is adorned with interesting carv-
ings of the 12th cent., recently restored and renewed, like many
other parts of the building.

The interior consists of a long nave without aisles , novel in style
and of imposing effect. The Domical Vaulting^ or depressed cupolas, of
the nave may be said to mark the transition from the Byzantine dome to
groined or Gothic vaulting. The chief objects of interest are the Stained
Glass Windows, magnificent works of the 12th, 13th, and i5th cent.; the
Tapestry, of the 14-18th cent,; a Calvary, by David d'Angers, in a chapel
to the left; a St. Cecilia, by the same master, in the choir; the Pulpit
(16th cent.); and the Organ-Loft, supported by Caryatides (16th cent.). In
the nave, to the left, is a monument to Mgr. Angebault (d. 1876), with a
marble statue by Bouriche. To the left of the entrance is a B'oly Water
Basin in verde antico, supported by two white marble lions, said to have

240 Route 32. ANGERS. Mu^evm.

been executed at Byzantium. — The tomb of Eene of Anjou (p. 242) was
rediscovered in 1895 in a vault beneath the choir.

The Bishop's Palace, to the N. of the cathedral, is "built on the
site of an ancient castle of the Counts of Anjou. It dates from the
12th cent., but was thoroughly restored inside and out by Viollet-
le-Duc in 1862-65, and now forms an admirable example of a medi^
c-Eval mansion. To see the back of it, which is the most interest-
ing part of the building, we descend the street a little farther, and
turn to the right. — In the same street, to the left, are two old
Timber Houses, with carving. There is a similar house a little farther
up, at the corner of the street to the right, behind the cathedral. We
now follow the winding street that begins immediately opposite this
house, and turn to the left into the short Rue du Muse'e.

In this street, to the right, are the *Museum (PI. D, E, 4) and
the Public Library, installed in the Logis Barrault, an interesting
mansion of the end of the 15th cent., built by Olivier Barrault, Trea-
surer of Brittany. In the court-yard are some Gothic and Renaissance
remains. The Museum, comprising sculpture and picture galleries
and a natural history collection, is open to the public on Sun. and
Thurs., from 1-5 (12-4 in winter), and to strangers on other days also.

The Ground Floor is devoted to the collection of Sculpture. — Vesti-
bule. Plaster Casts of ancient and modern works; model of the statue of
David (p. .2o9). — Room to the right. Continuation of the plaster-casts
(inscriptions); model for the pediment of the Pantheon at Paris, by David;
casts of works by Maindron (p. 234), a pupil of David. Also: 48 bis. Cortot,
Narcissus; 71. Dinechuu^ Woman nnd chimpcra; 62. Molknecht, Cathelineau,
the Vendean leader; 38. Bonnassieux. Las Cases.

1st Room to the left of the Vestibule. Blanchard, Rope-dancer;
Leenhojff^, Warrior resting, etc. 2nd Room. Drawings, engravings, water-
colours; Tourny, Portrait of Clievreul. — Is'^ext comes the Musee David, at
the beginning of which stands the model of his statue of Phil'.po?men. This
gallery contains models or copies of nearly all the works of the famous
and prolific sculptor David. There are also a few original works. The
names are attached to all the sculptures. The chief works are in Room HI,
a long gallery. — Room I. 73-76. Bas-reliefs from the monument to Gerbert
(Pope Sylvester II.); 3. Death of Epaminondas (this work won for Da-
vid the Grand Prix de Rome); 4. I'lysses , a bust, the artist's i'rst work
in marble; 42. Reception by the Duke of Angouleme at the Tuileries after
the Spanish war; several other busts. — Room II. 882-8&4. Jionuraent of
Bonchamp (p. 233). Drawings and Busts. 28. Statue of Bichat; 153, 120.
Heads of Riquet and Corneille; 9. Statue of Ft'nelon; Bronze Medal-
lions; 13, 12, 19. Statues of Gouvion-Saint-Cyr, Talma, and Armand
Carrel; 33-35. Bas-reliefs from Fcnelons monument; 45. Battle of Fleurus,
bas-relief; 61-64. King (Edipus, the Cid, the Clouds, Tartufle, bas-reliefs.
— Room III. No. 24. Jean Bart, a statue; 51-54. Benefits of printing, bas-
reliefs from Gutenberg's monument at Strassburg; 20, 27, 8. Statiies of
Ambroise Pare, Bernardin de St. Pierre, and King Rene of Anjou; 41.
Funeral of General Foy, bas-relief; 10. Statue of General Foy; 39., 40.
Another bas-relief from Foy's monument; 12S. Bronze bust of Paganini;
17. Statue of Cuvier; 85, 174. Bronze busts of Volney and Olivier dAngers;
7. Statue of the Great Conde; 69-72. Bas-reliefs from General Goberfs
monument; 119. Bronze bust of Proust, the chemist; 22. Statue of Bichat;
97. Marble bust of B^clard; 23. Mgr. de Cheverus, Bishop of Boston (Mass.)
and Archbishop of Bordeaux; 57-60. Bas-reliefs from his monument; 21.
Statue of Gutenberg; 25. Statue of Larrey; 65-68. Bas-reliefs from a monu-
ment. In the middle: 11. Greek girl at the tomb of Marco Bozzaris; 713.

Museum ANGERS. 32. Route. 241

Marble bust of David, by Toussaint, on aa altar carved in wood by David's
father; 18. Statue of Barra, the heroic drummer-boy killed in the Ven-
dean War; 26. General Gobert. Among the numerous busts in this room
may be mentioned those of Lamennais (No. 155; to the right, near the
middle of the room), Washington (105), Jeremy Bentham (102), Fenimore
Cooper (99), Goethe (116), Victor Hugo (149, 165), Racine (121), Corneille
(128), Humboldt (167), and Kanaris (175). — Room IV (to the left of the
preceding). Model (if the monument to Chevreul (p. 244); casts; paintings.
— Room V. Davmas, After the war; 54. Houdon^ Bust of Voltaire; 858.
Gumery, Dancing (originally intended for the Opera House at Paris);
SaulOy Awakening; Rambaud, Oath of Agrippa d'Aubigne.

On the FiKST Floor is ihe Museum of Natural History, which is specially
rich in birds, and also interesting for the opportunity it affords of study-
ing the mineralogy of the district.

On the Second Floor are the Paintings. — On the Staircase : Cartoons
by Lenepveu, a native of Angers, amongst which are (Nos. 267 and 268) those
from the ceilings of the Grand Optra at Paris and the theatre of Angers
fp. 244). — Room 1. to the left: No. 332. SoUmena, -Annimci, tion. To the
right: 25. Mine. Lebrun, Innccence seeking refuge in the arms of Justice
(crayon); < pposite, no number, De Richemont^ Legend of St. Mary of Brabant;
73. Girodet-Trioson, Death of T;tius; 65. Girard., Joseph and his brethren;
above, Tessier^ Sea-piece. — Bay to the left of the entrance: t') the left, 145.
Patrois, Joan of Arc; 112. Leprieur, Cammess; 251. Lenepveu^ Cincinnatus
(youthful work) ; 810. Wender, Saul and the Wich of En.lor; 806. H. Schejifer,
Ci 1. de Sevret; 10. Beimer^ Landscape; 805. A. Scheffer ., Marquis de Las
Cases. — 412. /. Duban, Death ( f a 1 rappist mcnk. — 66. Gerard and Van
Spaendonck, Lareveillere-Lepeaux ; 253. Lenepveu, St. Saturninus ; QlQ.Maignan,
Louis XI. and a leper. — End-tiay: no number, Aug. Lan(;on, Funeral at
Champigny; 229, 227. Ingres, Studies; Giacomatti^ Italian girl; 207. De Pig-
nerolle, Gcmlola; Guercino, St. Cathaiine of Bologna. Also, Mu.'^e ol Andre
Chenier, in marble, by Louis-Noel; medals; Minerva's sl.ield, by Simart^
and other reliefs, etc. — Bay on the other side of the door: to the ri^ht,
88. Jacque, Oxen drinking; 71. Gide., Sully quitting the court of Louis XIJI. ;
797. Flandrin, Nympha'um; 131. Minageot., Astyana.x torn from the arms
of Andromache; no number, Leloir, Baptism of the king of Lancerotte;
175. Vien, Priam returning with the body of Hector; 132. Minageot., Cleo-
patra at the tomb of Mark Antony; 126. Luminais, The two Guardians; 57.
P. Flandrin, Environs of Marseilles; 184. Appeit, Bacchante. — Lenepveu,
252. Sickness of i^lexander, 251 bis. Christ in the Pratorium (two youthful
works). — 174. Vetter , Alchemist; no number, Krug, Victim of the sea;
1. Anasiasi, Roman Forum ; 206. Mercier, Dives ; no number, Glieca, Saturnalia ;
21. Beith^lemy, Eleazar. — Pradier, Sappho (bronze).

Room II. 179. Ghardin, Portrait; 351. Muiillo, Young man; 48. Desportes,
Animals, flowers, and fruit; 336. Bomenichino . S. Carlo Borromeo. — 282.
Flemish School. Calvary; 37. Michel Cornei'le., Madonna and Child with St.
John; no number, Garofalo. Holy Family; 316. Lor. di Credi., Ht ly Family;
3C0. Giordano i^.). Paradise; 189. Movie Bouliord {^ni Ax\givs).^ Portrait of the
rrtist; 312. Guercino, Time and Truth; 154. H. Robert, Fountain of Minerva
(Rome); 380. Van Thulden , Assumption; 137. Mignard, Madonna, Infant
Christ, and John the Baptist; 824. Ribera, Portrait; 373. Rubens, Silenus;
Jordaens, 367. Francois Flamand, 366. St. Sebastian; 363, Be Chawpaigne,
Christ among the doctors; 397. Honthorst, Violin-player; 358. Rotten hammer.
Banquet of the gods; Ribera, Old man; 386. Flemish School, Holy Family;
319. Giordano, Adam and Eve. — 273. Tiepolo, Ceiling-painting; 115. Lethiere,
The Canaanitish woman; 274. Italian School, Christ with the reed; 279.
Berghem, Ruins; 277. School of the Francks, The Ten Virgins; 272. Raphael,
Hidy Family (variation of a painting now at Madrid); 281. Velazquez, Fruit;
278. School of Rogier van der Weyden, Calvary; 389. Flemish School, Caritas
Romana; 81. Lagrenie, Death of the wife of Darius. — 374. Snyders, In-
jured dog ; 399. Van Mieris, Rape of the Sabine w( men ; 405. /. van Ruisdael,
Landscape; 402. Poelenburg, Women bathing; 376. Teniers the Younger, The
tete-a-tete; 182. Watteau, Fete champetre; 791. Boucher, Allegory of love;
324. C. Maratia, Madonna adoring the Child; 377. Teniers the Younger. The

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 16

242 Route 32. ANGERS. Statue of Rene.

unkind mother-, 121. /. B. Van Loo^ Rinaldo and Armida (from Tasso's
'Jerusalem Delivered'); pictures by Leprince, Lancret^ and Pater; 364. Ph.
de Champaigne., The disciples at Emmaus; 172. /. Vernet, Sea-piece; 74.
Greuze, Mme. de Porcin; 38. Ant. Cot/pel., Olympus (sketch for a ceiling
painting); 47. Desportes, Fox-hunt; 167. De Trot/, Bathsheba.

EooM III. Works by Bodinier (1795-1872), of Angers; 230. Montessuy,
Soothsayer predicting the papacy of Sixtus V.

Adjoining the Muse'e, with the entrance in the Rue Toussaint,
are the interesting ruins of the ancient abbey-church of Toussaint,
dating from the 13th cent., which may be visited on application to
the keeper of the Musee.

At the end of the Rue Toussaint is the *Castle (PI. C, D, 4),
which is still one of the most imposing buildings of the kind in exist-
ence, in spite of the fact that many of its seventeen towers have
been razed and though the construction of a boulevard to the S. has
swept away one of its bastions and filled in its immense moat. This
powerful feudal stronghold dates chiefly from the 13th cent.; it is
built in the form of a pentagon and stands on a rock dominating the
course of the Maine to the W. Visitors are admitted to the interior,
which, however, possesses little interest.

Between the Boul. du Roi-Rene and the Boul. du Chateau rises
a bronze *Statue of King Rene (PI. D, 4,5), by David d' Angers.

Rene (1408-80), second son of Louis 11. of Anjou, became ruler of
that duchy and of Provence by the death of his brother Louis 111. in 1434.
He was also for ,^ome time King of Naples, in virtue of the will of Joanna II.
After a life of misfortune, during which he had been deprived of nearly
all his lands, he retired in 1473 to Aix , in Provence, to spend his last
years in peaceful occupations among the devoted subjects left to him.
He cultivated literature and tlie fine arts with great zeal, and well de-
served his surname of 'the Good\ Some of his writings are still extant.
Ren^ appears as one of the characters in 'Anne of (Jleierstein"', but is
viewed by Sir Walter Scott in a somewhat unflattering light.

The pedestal of the statue is surrounded by twelve bronze statuettes,
also by David , representing Dunmacus, defender of the Andegavi against
Crtsar; Roland, the paladin; and ten illustrious members of the house of
Anjou, viz. Robert the Strong, Foulqucs Xera, Foulques V., Henry II.
Plantagenet (see p. 238); Philip Augustus, Charles of Anjou, Louis I. of
Anjou; Isabella of Lorraine and Jeanne de Laval, Rene's wives; and Mar-
garet of Anjou, Queen of England.

To the S. is the handsome church of St. Laud (PI. D, 5), rebuilt
in 1872-82 in the Angevin variety of the Romanesque style, with
transepts, ambulatory, lateral chapels, and a crypt under the chevet.
The arches in the nave are supported by very slender columns. The
fine altars are adorned with sculptures.

AVe now follow the Boulevard du Chateau, which runs westward
to the Maine. It is continued by the Pont de la Basse - Chatne
(PI. B, C, 4), replacing a suspension-bridge , which gave way in
1850, during the passage of a battalion of infantry, 223 men being
drowned or killed by the fall. The next bridge farther up is named
the Pont du Centre (bearing a statue oi General Beaurepaire ; 1740-
92J, and still higher up is the Pont de la Hauie-Chame, commanded
by the old Toirer of that name. A good view of the cathedral and
the town is obtained from the opposite bank.

St. Serge. ANGERS. 32. Route. 243

In the street beginning at the Pont du Centre is the church of
La Trinite (PI. B, 3), another interesting building in the Angevin-
Romanesque style, with a fine tower, the upper part of which, how-
ever, dates from the 16th century.

The interior, which, like that of other typical Angevin churches, has
no aisles, contains a fine wooden .staircase of the Renaissance period and
a figure of Christ by Maindron. The nave 'is roofed with an intersecting
vault in eight compartments of somewhat Northern pattern , hut with a
strong tendency towards the domical forms of the Southern style'. The
details throughout are good, and the general effect is so satisfactory 'as
to go far to shake our absolute faith in the dogma that aisles are indis-
pensably necessary to the proper effect of a Gothic church' (Fergusson).
The vaulting diminishes in height from W. to E., a device to increase
the apparent length of the church.

In the same street, to the left, near La Trinite, is an interesting
Timbered House. Adjoining La Trinite' are the ruins of the ancient
Eglise du Eonceray, dating partly from the 11th cent., and the huge
Ecole des Arts et Metiers [PI. B, 2, 3), established in the ancient
abbey of Ronceray, which was enlarged and altered for its reception.

Farther on, on the quay on this side of the Pont de la Haute-
Chaine, is the ancient Hospice St. Jean (PI. B, 2), said to have been
founded in 1152 by Henry II. of England. It now contains an
ARCHiEOLOGicAL MusEUM, Open at the same times as the other Mu-
seum (p. 240). The collections occupy a large and handsome Gothic
hall, in three equal compartments or aisles, dating from the second
half of the 13th cent, and ranking among the earliest specimens of
pure Gothic architecture.

The museum contains few antiquities, but a great many objects be-
longing to the middle ages and the Renaissance period, often of little im-
portance. Among the curiosities may be mentioned an antique porphyry urn,
with two masks of Jupiter, which tradition avers to be one of the water-
pots from Cana of Galilee; a very fine figure of a man kneeling before a
prie-Dieu ; several monumental statues*, fine wood-carving from a Renais-
sance altar; other wood-carvings; chests, on which are glass-cases con-
taining objects of smaller dimensions; and a strong-box with a very com-
plicated lock. Labels are affixed to most of the objects.

The modern representative of the Hospice St. Jean is the Hos-
pice-HopitnL Ste. Marie (PI. A, B, 1), situated to the left, some dis-
tance beyond the bridge, a building of huge dimensions, containing
1500 beds. The chapel is decorated with frescoes by Lenepveu,
Appert, and Dauban, all artists of Angers.

We now cross the bridge and follow the boulevards. To the left is
the Gare St. Serge(F\.J)^i ; p. 238), and beyond it, adjoining the
seminary, is the ancient abbey-church of St. Serge (PI. E, 1). This
church possesses a fine 15th cent, nave, but the most interesting
parts are the choir and transepts, which are in the same style as
the cathedral, and are roofed with domical vaulting. The arches of
the nave are supported by enormously thick pillars, whereas the
columns in the choir are of the most slender proportions. The plan
of the choir is interesting, consisting at first of a nave and double
aisles, contracting to a nave and single aisles, and finally to a nave
only. The outer aisles terminate in apses, the others in straight walls.

16*

244 Route 32. ANGERS.

We now proceed with our circuit round tL^ old town by follow-
ing the boulevards. To the left of the Boulevard Carnot lies the
well-stocked Botanic Garden (PL E, F, 1), which was founded in
1777 and forms a pleasant promenade. At the entrance is a Statue
of Chtvreul (p. 239), by E. Guillaume. The former Palais de Justice,
on. the other side of the boulevard, now contains the Palaeontol-
ogical Museum, open on Sun. and Thurs., 12-4.

Farther on, the Boulevard de la Mairie skirts the Champ-de-Mars
(PI. F, 2), in which stands the Palais de Justice, a modern building
with an Ionic colonnade, partly hidden by the neighbouring houses.
To the S. of the Champ-de-Mars lies the Jardin du Mail (PL F, 2,3),
where a band plays on Sunday and Thursday. To the right of the
boulevard rises the Hotel de Ville, in an old college of 1691. We
next reach the Place de Lorraine, where a bronze statue of Da-
vid d' Angers (PL F, 3), by Louis Noel, was erected in 1880.

The Rue d' Alsace, a little farther on, leads to the right to the
Place du Rallitment (PL E, 3), forming the centre of the town.
In this Place are the Theatre, a fine edifice rebuilt in 1865-71 and
adorned with paintings by Lenepveu and Dauban, the Grand-Hotel,
a still more recent building, and the Post and Telegraph Office,
completed in 1891. — In the Rue de Lespine (PL D, E, 3) stands
the *H6tel de Pince or Hotel d'Avjou, one of the finest private
mansions in Angers, erected about 1530 , but largely restored in
1880-84. The interior, interesting for its fine ceilings, chimney-
pieces, etc., contains a small Museum of antiquities, faience, and
art-objects, in bronze, ivory, enamel, etc., open as the two others.

From Angers excursions may be made by electric tramway (p. 238) to
Ponts-de-C6, 3 M. to the S., and to the slate-quarries of Trilazd (p.2b8), 3V-2 M.
to the E. Ponts-de-Ce has a station also on the railway from Angers to
Loudun.

Les Ponts-de-Ce (Cheval Blanc; de la Loire; du Commerce), a town with
3530 inhab., is built on three islands in the Loire, connected with each
other and with the bank on each side by means of four bridges. The total
length of these bridges, together with the roads between, is almost 2 M.
They were rebuilt in 184t)-66, but are of very ancient origin, being the
'Pons Sail' of the Romans, and they have repeatedly been the object of
armed contests from the Roman period down to modern times. A statue
of Dumnacus (p. 242), by Is^oel, was erected on the Pont St. Maurille in 1^87.

From Angers to La FLficHE, 30 M., railway in P/i-2^/i hrs., starting
from the Gare St. Laud. The chief intermediate station is (21 M.) Duital,
a small town on the Loir, with the remains of fortifications and an inter-
esting chateau of the 16th century. The line then crosses the Loir and joins
the lines from La Suze and Sable (p. 232). — 30 M. La FUche, see p. 232.

From Angers to SEGRii (Laval, Rennes. Redon), 23V2 M., railway in
1-11/4 hr., starting from the Gare St. Serge (p. 238). The chief intermediate
station is (15 M.) Le Lion-d'* Angers (Hot. de la Grosse Pierre), with an in-
teresting church of the 10-llth centuries. — 231/2 M. Segri, see p. 234.

From Angers to Le Mans and Paris and to Nantes, see R. 31a; to Tours,
etc., see K. 31c. — To Loudun (PoiUers), Cholet, etc., see Baedeker's South-
]Vesier>i France.

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245

33. Nantes.

Railway Stations. The Grande Gave or Gave d' Orleans (PI. G, 4-
Bufiet), the principal station, lies to the E. of the town. — The Gare de la
Bourse (PI. D, 3), on the prolongation of the Orleans line in the direction
of Brest, lies nearer the centre of the town, but tickets cannot be obtained
here, nor luggage registered, except for the line to St. Nazaire, Guerande,
and Le Croisic, and for the Brest line to Redon. — The Gare Maritime
(PI. A, B, 3), farther on on the same line, is only used by goods-trains. —
The Gare de VEtat (PI. C, D, 5; Buffet), to the S., is for the line to Bordeaux
and Its branches and for the line to Paris via Segre. It is, however, con-
nected with the Gare d'Orleans by a junction-line, and the trains start from
either, according to the direction in which they are going.
_ Hotels. Hotel de France (PI. a; D, 3), Place Graslin, pleasantly
situated, but at a distance from the stations, R., L., & A. 3-11, B IV2 ddi 3
p. 4, omn. 3/4 fr.; de Bretagne (PI. b; F, 3), Rue de Strasbourg 23, pens!
from 10 fr.; des Votageurs (PI. c; D, 3), Rue Moliere 2, R., L., & A. 21/2-51/2
B. 11/4, dej. 3, D. 31/2, omn. s/^ fr.; du Commerce (PI. d; D, 3), Rue San-
teuil 12; DE Paris (PI. f ; D, 3), Rue Boileau, R. from 3, d^j. 3, D. 31/2 fr •
DucHESSE Anne (PI. e; F, 3), Place Duchesse-Anne, R. 2-5, A. 1/2, dej. 21/2

i'';? Cholet (Hotel meuble), Rue Gresset 10, near the Place Graslin, etc.

Cafes-Restaurants. Cafi.de France, de la Cigale, de VUnivers, Place
Graslin ; others in the Place du Commerce (Bourse) , etc. — Restaurant
Franrats, Camhronne, both Place Graslin (a la carte) : at the Hdtel du Com-
merce^ see above.

..o .^^pf'n ^'^'V'^,?"? ^"^^®' P^^ 'course^ li/2fr., per hr. 21/4 fr.-, at night
(12 to 6) 2 and 21/2 fr.; with two horses, 2, 21/2, and 3 fr. : 'Voitures de
remise slightly dearer.

Tramways (driven by compressed air). From the Place du Commerce
(Bourse) to Doulon, on the E., via the Gare d'Orlcans; to Chantenav, on the
W., traversing the quays; to Pirmil, on the S., via the GaredeFEtat; to
ih& Rennes Road,^ on the N., via the Rue de Strasbourg; to the Pam 7?oad,
on the N.E., via the cathedral; to Grilland and Trois-Moulins; fares 10c.
for one, 20c. for two, and 30 c. for three or four sections. — Omnibuses
also ply in the town.

.■D, ^teamboats ply in summer from the Quai de la Fosse, near the Bourse
(Pl.U, d), to St. Nazaire, touching at Basse-Indre (p. 253), Indret (p. 253),
Coueron (p. 253), Le Pellerin, Le Migron, and Paimboeuf (p. 252). The boats
start at 8 a.m. and perform the journey down in 3-3Vi, up in 3-4 hrs. (fares
to bt._ Isazaire, 21/2, I1/2 fr.; return-ticket available by railway in one
direction 5, 4, 23/4 fr.). Restaurant on board. — Steam Ferry (5 c.) at the
end of the He Gloriette (PI. C, 4).

Theatres. Grand TMdtre (PI. D, 3), Place Graslin; Thiatre de la
Renaissance (PI. D, 1, 2), Place Brancas; TMdtre des VariHis (PI. D, E, 2),
Rue Mercoeur. ' ' -'5

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. E, 3), Quai Brancas, entered from the
Rue du Coucdic and Rue La Peyrouse.

_ Baths. Si. Louis, Rue Voltaire 19 (50-70 c); du Calvaire, Rue du Cal-
vaire 8. River Baths in the Loire, between the He Fevdeau and He Gloriette.

British Consul, B. Pauncefote, Esq. — United States Consul, Joseph L
Brittam, Esq.; Vice-Consul, Hiram D. Bennett, Esq.

English Church Service in the French Protestant Church, Rue de Gi-
gant, at noon.

Nantes, the capital of the Departement de la Loire-Inferieure,
tlie headquarters of the Xlth Corps d'Arme'e, and the seat of a
bishop, is a town with 123,900 inhab., situated mainly on the right
bank of the Loire. The river ramifies here into six arms, and re-
ceives the waters of the Erdre and the Sevre-Nantaise, the latter
flowing into it to the S., beyond the islands, the former coming from
the N. and traversing the town before its confluence. The commerce

246 Route 33. NANTES. History.

and industry of Nantes have long rendered it one of the most flourish-
ing towns in France, and with regard to population it ranks seventh
in the country. Its harbour has latterly lost much of its im-
portance, the approach to it being too narrow for the large ships of
modern times, but in 1881 the authorities began the construction
of a lateral canal, which, it is hoped, will restore the town to the
rank it has lost. Sugar forms the principal article of commerce in
Nantes, and the town contains several large sugar-refineries. To-
bacco, sardines, and preserved meats of all kinds are also among
the chief industrial products, and the outskirts of the town are
thickly sprinkled with iron-works, ship-building yards, cotton-mills,
glass-works, and other factories.

"Nantes was founded anterior to the Roman conquest, but its history,
until the end of the 15th cent., may be summed up in the record of its
struggles with the Romans, the Normans, the English, and the French in
defence of its own independence and the independence of Brittany. It
was in the castle of Nantes that the marriage of Anne of Brittany with
Charles VIII., King of France, was solemnised in 1491, thus uniting the
duchy of Brittany with the crown of France. Anne was pledged by special
agreement to marry the successor of Charles, should she survive him, and
in consequence of this married Louis XII. in 1499 (see p. 209). Notwith-
standing this, Nantes endeavoured to regain its independence underHenri III,
during the wars of the League, but finally submitted to Henri IV in 1598.
In the month of April in that year was issued the famous Edict of Nantes,
granting the Protestants liberty of worship and equal political rights with
the Roman Catholics. Nantes was favourable from the very beginning to
the cause of the Revolution, and victoriously resisted the Vendeans in
1793; but nevertheless the Comite du Saint Public sent the ferocious
Carrier hither to suppress the rebellion. This monster went far beyond
his instructions, ordered the execution, without trial, of all who had been
imprisoned, and, finding that the e.xecutioncr's axe and the fusillading of
hundreds at a time were too inexpeditious modes of accomplishing his
cruel commands, invented the Noyades, or 'Drownings en masse", which
were effected by scuttling barges full of prisoners. From six to nine thou-
sand persons, if not more, perished by his orders in this town alone within
less than four months, until at last he himself was denounced, recalled, and
sent in his turn to the scaffold.

Nantes is nowadays a handsome modern town, but the absence
of main thoroughfares makes it difficult for the stranger to find
his way about its streets. Its most characteristic features are the
numerous bridges over the different arms of the Loire and the
Erdre, the harbour, and the fine houses of the 18th cent., which
line the quays. There are, however, comparatively few buildings
of interest.

The railway from Orleans is prolonged along the quays on its
way to Basse-Bretagne (R. 34). A short distance from the station,
to the right, opens the Place Duchesse-Anne (PI. F, 3), where the
Cours St. Pierre (p. 249) and the new street described at p. 248
begin. On the flight of steps ascending to the Cours is the Monument
Pour le Drapeau ('for the flag"), erected in 1897 in memory of 1870-71 .

On one side of the Place rises the Castle (PI. F, 3), an imposing
building of very ancient origin, but in its present form dating mainly
from the end of the loth century. It had formerly seven towers, but

Nat. Hist. Museum. NANTES. 33. Boute. 247

one of them, which was used as a powder-magazine, was blown Tip
in 1800. Visitors may enter the interesting court-yard, where we
may notice the Grand Logls, a Renaissance edifice, which has been
restored, and the Salle des Oardes. There is also a large well, with
an iron coping. The interior of the castle is uninteresting.

The castle was long used as a state-prison, and Card, de Retz (1654),
Fouquet, and the Duchess of Berri (li'-32), mother of the Comte de Cham-
borcl, where confined here. The last w s arrested in No. 3 Rue Haute du
Chateau (behind the castle; visitors admitted), after lying concealed for the
best part of a day in a small recess behind a chimney on the third floor.

We continue to follow the quays, passing the end of the Rue
de Strasbourg (p. 249), and cross the canalised I^rdre at its junction
with the Loire. Farther on, in the Place du Commerce, stands the
Exchange (Pi. D, 3), built in 1792-1812. To the left is the small
Jle Feydeau. We next reach the Gare de la Bourse (PI. D, 3),
already mentioned, and the Quai de la Fosse, skirting the harbour,
to which we may return after visiting the interior of the town. The
Edict of Nantes is said to have been signed in the Maison des Tou-
relles (No. 5). No. 17 also deserves attention.

The Bue Jean-Jacques Bous'^eau (PI. D, 3), which leaves the
quay between the Exchange and the Gare de la Bourse, leads to
the Place Graslin (PI. D, 3), the centre of the town. In it stands
the Grand Theatre.^ built in 1788, but several times restored since
then, with a Corinthian colonnade surmounted by the figures of
eight Muses. The vestibule contains statues of Corneille and Moliere
by Molknecht and the auditorium has a fine ceiling, painted by
Hippolyte Berteaux in 1881.

To the S.AV. of the Place Graslin extends the Cours de la Re-
publique or Cambronne (PI. C, D, 3), a promenade embellished with
a bronze statue of General Cambronne (1770-18421, a native of the
environs of Nantes, erected in 1848. On the pedestal is inscribed the
answerheis said to have given at Waterloo: 'The guard dies, but never
surrenders'. The statue was executed by Jean Debay, a native artist.

A little to the N. of the Cours Cambronne, in the Rue Voltaire,
stands the Ecole des Sciences (PI. C, 31, erected in 1821 , and used
first as a mint and then as a court of justice. Its handsome facade,
in the classical style, with a sculptured pediment, is turned towards
the Place de la Monnaie. Besides the law-courts it now contains
an important Museum of Natural History (PI. C, 3), open to the
public on Sun., Tues., Thurs., and holidays, 12-4 (closed in Sept.).

The entrance to the museum is in the Place de la Monnaie. — On the
Ground-Floor are a large gallery and hall devoted to Geology., Mineralogy .,
and Palaeontologii. There are descriptive labels affixed to the various
objects. — On the First Floor is the Zoological Collection. In a glass-
case to the left of the entrance, between two mummies, is the tanned
skin of a soldier, killed by the Vendeans in 1793, who requested his
comrades to have a drum made of his skin, so that he might continue to
be a terror to those 'brigands de royalistes' after his death. His wish
has been only half realised. The collection of fishes is very complete. In
the upper galleries are birds, insects, corals, madrepores, and Crustacea.
The side-rooms contain a good herbarium, specimens of wood, etc.

248 Route 33. NANTES. Musie T. Dobree.

A little farther on is the Musee T. Dobree (PI. C, 3), consisting
of an old country-house of the Mshops of Nantes (15th cent.) and
an extensive pile of new buildings, erected about 30 years ago by
T. Dobree in the Romanesque style of the 12th cent., and presented
to the town in 1894.

A series of rooms on the groundfloor is occupied by the large and
valuable Musie d''ArcMologie, connrising the Kervien , Siedler, and De
Parenteau Collections, etc. (specially objects from ancient ^'antes). Two
catalogues have been published, and a third is in preparation.

A monumental staircase ascends to the first floor, on which is the
Musde T. Dobree, comprising important bibliographical collections, a cabinet
of engravings with splendid specimens of the principal Flemish and Ger-
man masters, and a gallery of French costumes since the tim'^. of Louis XIII.;
besides works of art of every description, furniture of the Duchesse Anne,
an almost c 'mplete series of the coins of the Dukes of Brittany, and an
excellent collection of autographs. Conservateur- Direct iur, P. de Lisle
du Drenenc.

With the view of freeing the Museum, which is of considerable
importance, the houses of three streets are now being taken down.
"When these works are finished, the Museum will be unrivalled in
the provinces of France.

The Rue Voltaire leads to the W, to the church of Notre-Dame
(p. 251) , but we follow it to the-E. to the Place Graslin, and then
take the Rue CreT^illon (PI. D, 3). To the right, at the first cross-
street, is the Passage Pommeraye, a handsome and much -fre-
quented arcade, with the peculiarity of being in three stages, with
connecting staircases , owing to the fact that the streets which it
joins are not on the same level. It is adorned with statuettes by
Debay and medallions by Grootaers, both natives of Nantes. It
emerges on the other side in the Rue de la Fosse, near the Bourse.

The Rue Cre'billon ends at the Place Royale (PL D, E, 3), an-
other scene of great animation, embellished with a large modern
*Fountain, in granite, by BrloUet, with thirteen bronze statues and
statuettes by Ducommun and Grootaers. The marble statue on the
top represents the town of Nantes; the others, in the basin below,
represent the Loire (seated on a throne) and its principal affluents,
the Sevre, Erdre, Cher, and Loir.

In the vicinity rises the handsome modern church of St. Nicolas
(PI. E, 3), designed by Lassus in the Gothic style of the 13th cent.,
with double aisles and an imposing tower, 218 ft. high. The most
striking points of the interior are the triforium, below which runs
a beautiful band of foliage; the high-altar, in white marble, with
bas-reliefs and a ciborium terminating in a lofty pyramid ; the gilded
choir-screen; the pictures, by Delaunay, in the transept-chapels;
the stained-glass windows; the altar in the Lady Chapel; and the
tomb of Mgr. Foiimier (d. 187T"), bishop of Nantes, in the left aisle.

The Rue de Feltre, passing between the chun-h of St. Nicolas and
the old Picture Gallery (conip. p. 246) descends to the Erdre. Thence
it is to be prolonged through the old quarter on the opposite bank

Cathedral. NANTES. 33. Route. 249

(PI. E, F, 3) towards the Place de la Duchesse-Anne (p. 246), form-
ing with de Rue du Calvaire an important new artery of traffic.

At the end of the Rue Lafayette, which diverges from the Rue
d'l Calvaire, is the Palais de Justice (PI. D, 2), a large and hand-
some building, dating from 1845-53. In the centre of the facade
is a colonnade surmounted by an arcade, with a fine group by Sue,
of Nantes, representing Justice protecting Innocence against Crime.

We now return to the church of St. Nicolas, descend to the
Erdre, and cross it, in order to reach the Basse-Grande-Rue on the
opposite bank. In this street, to the right, is the church of Ste. Croix
(PI. E, 3), erected in the 17th and 19th centuries. Its tower is
surmounted by the leaden Belfry from the old Hotel de Ville, adorrt-
ed with genii blowing trumpets. — The Rue Ste. Croix, to the left,
and its continuation, the Rue de la Baclerie, and the Rue de la Jui-
verie, contain some interesting old houses. We now cross the Rue
de Strasbourg (PL F, 2, 3), a handsome modern street, which traverses
the whole E. part of the town in a straight line from N. to S.

A little farther to the E. stands the Cathedral of St. Pierre
(PL F, 3). The rebuilding of this church, dating from the Roman-
esque period, was undertaken in the 15th cent., but was never
finished, and the small 12th cent, choir long stood in incongruous
combination with the more ambitious W. end. The work, liowever,
was resumed and was completed in 1892. The fagade is flanked by
two towers, and the portals are richly adorned with sculptures.

The lofty nave produces a very imposing effect. The triforium is
worthy of notice. Vnder the organ are Alto-relievos and Statues of the 15th
cent., recently restored, representing scenes from the lives of the early Pa-
triarchs and Bishops, and a Duke of Brittany. To the right, near the
door, are a statue of St. Paul in a niche of the 15th century. The last
chapel in the S. aisle contains a painting by H. Flandrin, and the 3rd
chapel in the N. a'sle has an ancient stained-glass windovp. At the ends
of the aisles are tasteful porials. — The chief objects of interest in
the interior are, hov^-ever, the tomhs in the transepts. In the S. transept
is the *ToMB of Fkaxcois II, last Duke of Brittany, and his wife
Marguerite de Foix, a very elaborate work in the Renaissance style, ex-
ecuted in 1507 by Michel Colonib. The tomb, in black and white marble,
supports recumbent figures of the deceased, with statues of Justice, Prud-
ence, Temperance, and Power at the four corners, and is surrounded
by two rows of sixteen niches containing statuettes of apostles, saints,
and mourners. Justice, to the right, is a portrait of Anne of Brittany,
daughter of the deceased, who erected this monument in their honour;
Prudence has two faces, one of a young woman and one of an old man. —
In the N. transept is the *Tomb of LAMORiciftEE, a native of Kantes (1806-
65). This imposing modern monument is the joint work of the architect
Boitte and the sculptor Paul Dubois. Below a canopy lies a white marble
figure of the general; at the corners are bronze statues of History, Charity,
Military Courage, and Faith, and bas-reliefs run along the sides.

The street to the left of the cathedral leads to the Place
Louis XVI. (PL F, 3), in the middle of which is a Colurrm, 90 ft.
high, surmounted by a Statue of Louis A'F/., by Molknecht. This
Place lies between the Cours St. Andre and the Cows St. Pierre, all
three having beeii laid out as a promenade in 1726 and furnished

250 Route 33. NANTES. Picture Gallery.

with other mediocre statues by Molknecht. The Cours St. Andre
extends to the left to the Erdre, while the Cours St. Pierre descends
to the right, passing behind the choir of the cathedral, to the Place
Duchesse-Anne and the Quai de la Loire, near the chateau (p. 246).
In the Rue St. Clement, which leads to the E. from the Place Louis XVI,
is the handsome new church oi Si. CUment (PI. G, 2, 3), in the Gothic style
of the 13th century. The chapel of the Couvent de la Visitation (PI. G, 2),
farther to the E., contains some interesting paintings hy Elie Delaunay.

In the Rue du Lyce'e, to the E. of the Cours St. Pierre, is the
new *Musee de Peinture (PL G, 31, an extensive pile erected in
1893-97 by C. Josso (open daily, 12-4). It is one of the best pro-
vincial museums in France, and contains more than 1000 pictures,
among which the modern French masters are prominent, the first
names from the 18th cent, to the present day being represented by
a series of splendid works. As the arrangement was still unfinished
in autumn, 1898, we mention the most noteworthy pictures arranged
in schools and in alphabetical order.

Italian Schools. Albano., Baptism of Christ; G. Bassnno, Annunciation
to the Shepherds; Leandro Bassnno (7). Nativity of the Viruin; Botticelli,
Madonna; Calabrese, Christ healing the blind man; Canaletto, View of Ven-
ice, Piazza Navona at Rome; Caravaggio, Portrait of himself , Delivery of
St. Peter; Castiglione, Noah's sacrifice, Entering the ark; Pietro da Cor-
tonn, Joshua commanding the sun to stand still; Ascribed to Ghirlandajo,
Madonna, Infant Christ, and John the Bnptist; Giorgione, Portrait of a Ven-
Itian; Guardi, Carnival at Venice, Assembly of Venetian nobles at the
Doge's palace; '-'Gyercino., Phocion refusing the presents of Alexander:
''Early Italian School, Madonna; Hal. School of the 16th cent., Annunciation,
Madonna; '-Lorenzo Lotto, Woman taken in adultery: Mnratta, St. Filippo
Neri; Pannini, Ruins; "Perugino, Isaiah and Jeremiah; Sebastian del Piombo,
Rearing of the Cross; Bosselli, Judith; Salvator Rofa (V), Landscape; 'Andrea
del Sarto, Charity, probably the first study of the subject, which the artist
has repeated three times; Sassoferrato, Head of the Virgin ; Paolo Veronese,
Portrait of a princess. Old copy of the Marriage at Cana; Solimena, Ma-
donna and Infant Christ, with saints; Stella, Assximption; Strozzi, B.&diWnz
of the man with the palsy. Conversion of Zachseus.

Flkmish, Dutch, and German Schools. D. Alsloot, View of the farm
of Belle- Alliance at Waterloo (1609); "AUdorfer. Conversion of St. Matthew,
Christ in the house of S-mon the Pharisee; Bloemart, Reprnfant Maedalen;
Bouts, Landscape; Boyermnns, Vows of St. Louis of Gonzaga; Brakenbtirgh,
Church-fair; '■Velvef ^rwej/AcZ, Landscapes ; Brueghel tJie Elder, Snow-scene;
*Ph. de Chnmpaigne, Suger, abbot of St. Denis; 384. Coqves, Interior; Ph.
de Grayer, Education of the Virgin; A. Ciiyp ('?), Portrait of a child ; Decker,
River-scene; ZJenwer, Holy Family; Dietrich, Monk; Dilrer. St. Christopher;
Flinck (?), Prodigal Son; Fovquier, Jlountainous landscape; Franck the Elder,
Crucifixion, Elevation of the Cross; German School of the I6ih cent.. Pro-
posal of marriage; Van der Heist, Portrait; Honthorst . Adoration of the
Shepherds; Matsys (1), St. Jerome; Mnrinvs van Romersvaele, Banker and
his wife; Van der Meulen, Investment of Luxembourg; Egbert van der Poel,
Conflagration on the riverside; Poelenburg, Ruins; Povrbus the Elder. Por-
trait of a lady; Pourbus the Younger, Prince Maurice of Orange; Pynacker,
Landscape; QiieUyn, Interior; '^Rembrandt. Portrait of his wife(?); Rubenn,
Triumph of a warrior; Salmson, The little gleaner; Stca?ievelt, Landscape;
Van Vliet, Head of a man; Vinck-Boons, Wood with robbers; Tenters the
Younger, St. Theresa; Simon de Vos, Portraits; Ph. Wouwermnn, Hors-^men
preparing to start; Unknown Master of the ISth cent., Frederick II. of Prussia.

Spanish School. Herrera the Elder {"i). Two monks; Murillo, Mtulonna,
■^Hurdy gurdy player, Annunciation to the Shepherds ; Ribera, Christ among
the doctors; Velazquez, Portrait of a young prince; Unknown Matter of the
17th cent.., St. Joseph.

Picture Gallery. NANTES. 33. Route. 251

French School. Jean Andi'i^ Meditation of St. Catherine of Siena;
Baudnj, Eepentant Magdalen, Charlotte Corday; Bin^ Madness of Hercnles;
Boggs, Fishing-boat; Boulanger, Procession of the plague-stricken; Bras-
cassat, Cattle; Buffet^ The defile of La Hache (Algiers); Chaniron, Chry-
santhemums; Chaperon, Bacchanal; CMgot, Lost at sea; M. Corwei'We, Palm-
Sunday; Corot, Landscapes; Courbet^ Gleaners; Courtois (le Bourguignon),
Battlefield; CouUirier, Forced march in Oran; Coypel, Dido discovering
^neas and Achates; Curzon, The young mother; Baybigny, On the hanks
of the Seine; Dawant, The end of the service; Debay (of Nantes), Episode
of the year 1713 at Nantes, Lucretia on the CoUatine Hill; Delacroix, Arab
judge; 'Delaroche, Childhood of Pico de la Mirandola, Girl on the swing;
sketches for the Hdmicycle of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts and for the Made-
leine at Paris (the Litter not executed as paintings); /. E. Delaunay (of
Nantes), Lesson on the flute, Ixion in Hades, David aud Goliath, Death
of Nemes, the centaur, Portrait of Regnier, the actor; Detouche, Starting
for town, "Waiting for the fancy ball; Bubiife, Portrait of the Duchess of
Feltre; Fabre, Portrait of Clarke, Due de Feltre; Hipp. Flandrin, Reverie,
Young Girl; Paul Flandrin, Portraits of himself and of his brother (with
an album); Fortin, Breton interior; Francais, Landscape; Fromentin,
Gazelle-hunting; G^rome, Plain of Thebes, The prisoner; 7.58. E. Giraud,
Enlisting in the 18th cent.; Gretize, Portraits of M. de St. 3Iorys and his
son; Gros, Battle of Nazareth; Hamon, Juggler; Al. Hesse, Girl carrying
fruit, The reaper; Ingres, Portrait; Jacquand, A cardinal visiting Ribera,
Marie de' Medicis in the studio of Rubens ; Joyant, Church at Venice; Ch.
de Lafosse^ Apotheosis of iEneas. Venus demanding arms from Vulcan;
La Hire, Holy Family; Lancret, Fancy ball. Lady in a carriage drawn by
dogs; /. P. Lavrens, Popes Formosus and Stephen VII.; Le Blant, Death
of General d'Elbe'e; Lehoux, St. Martin; Lenepveti, Virgin at the foot of the
Cross; Le Poittevin, Sea-piece; Moreau de Tour, Entranced girl in the
middle ages; Nattier, Camargo, the dancer; Ottdry^ Rustic scene. Wolf
hunt; Pater, Pleasure-party; liaffaelli. Rag-picker lighting his pipe; Remond,
Bridge of Crevola, on the Simplon ; Pigaud, Portrait; Liop. Bobert, The
hermit of Mte. Epomeo, Girls bathing. The little fishers ; E. Roger, The
body of Charles the Bold discovered after the battle of Nancy; Roll, After
the ball; Phil. Rousseau, The search for perfection; Th. Rous^seau, Land-
scape; Sautai, St. Bonaventura; A. Scheffer, The charitable child; Schnetz,
Funeral of a martyr in the Roman catacombs; Sigalon, Athalia putting to
death the princes of the house of David; Stella, Assumption; Steuben, Es-
meralda (Victor Hugo), Odalisque Girl reading; Subleyras, The hermit
(Lafontaine); Toulmouche (of Nantes), The reading lesson; Valentin (de
Boulloiigne), The pilgrims to Emmaus; H. Vernet, Abraham ejectirg Hagar
and tshmael, 'The dead ride fasf'; Vollon, Kitchen; Wagrez, Perseus;
Watteau, Harlequin, Pantaloon, Pierrot and Colombine; Ziegler, Daniel in
the den of lions.

Sculptures. Aizelin, Child with an hour-glass; Debay, Mercury and
Argus; Dieudonni., Christ in Gethsemane; Ducommun du Chocle (of Nantes),
Cleopatra; Etex, Hero; Jacquemart, Arab on a camel; Ze jBowr^f (of Nantes),
Child with a grasshopper. Priestess of Eleusis, etc.

The Jardin des Plantes (PI. G, 3, 4) is partly laid out as a pub-
lic promenade, with an elaborate arrangement of lakes, waterfalls,
rocks, grottoes, and other artificial adornments. It also contains fine
groves and avenues of magnolias. There is another entrance in the
Boulevard Sebastopol, near the Gare d'Orleans. A band plays in
the garden on Sundays.

We may walk along the Qua! de la Fosse, which skirts the har-
bour, turning aside, however, to visit the domed church of Notre-
Dame-de-B on-Port (Pl.B, C, 3), built between 1846 and 1858, and
richly decorated with sculptures and paintings. Among the latter

252 Route 33. PORNIC.

may be mentioned a Last Supper by Picou, an Annunciation by
Chalot, a Descent from the Cross after Jouvenet, and an Assumption
after Murillo.

The Hue cle I'Hermitage, to the right of the Quai d'Aiguillon
(PI. A, 4), leads to an avenue by which we may ascend to Ste. Anne
(beyond PI. A, 3), a modern church in the style of the 15th century.
A staircase, at the top of which is a colossal cast-iron statue of
St. Anne, by Menard, also leads from the quai to the avenue. A fine
■view is obtained from the top. The church is a pilgrimage-resort.
From Nantes to Brest, see R. 34*, to Bordeaux, see Baedeker s South-
Western France.

Feom Nantes to Chateadbeiant (Vitri; Rennes), 39 M.. railway in
13/4 tr- (fares 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 30 c, 3 fr.). Starting from the Gare d'Orle'ans,
this line runs through the beautiful valley of the Erdre, passing (16 M.)
Nort, where the river becomes navigable. 38 M. C/idteaubrian(, see p. 234.
From Nantes to Paimbcedf, 36V2 M., railwav (Chemin de Fer de TEtat)
in 23/4-3 hrs (fares 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 55 c'.). The trains are formed
at the Gare d'Orlc'ans (see p. 245). We cross one or more arms of the
Loire, according to the station we start from. — 9 M. Bouaye. To the
left, in the centre of an expanse of meadow-land which it overflows in
winter, lies the shallow Lac de Grand -Lieu, 51/2 M. long and 3V2 BI. broad.
At (I6V2 M.) Ste. Patanne we diverge from the railway to Bordeaux.
19 M. St. miaire-de-ChaUons, the junction of the line to Pornic (see below);
31 M. St. P'ere-en-Retz ., with 3010 inhabitants. We obtain a fine view
of the mouth of the Loire and of St. Nazaire (p. 253) before reaching
(35 M.) St. Viaud. — 861/2 M. Paimboeuf (Hotel Tremblet), a decayed town
with 2180 inhab., situated on the left bank of the Loire, long played an
important part as the port of Nantes but has been supplanted by St. Na-
zaire, owing to the accumulation of sand in the roadstead. We may
also reach Paimboeuf by the Ligne de St. Nazaire, taking the boat from
Donges (see below), or by the Steamer from Nantes or St. Na/aire.

Fkom Nantes to Pounic, 35 M., railwav (Chemin de Fer de TEtat, as
above) in IV2-2V2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 80, 4 fr" 30, 2 fr. 80 c). From Nantes
to (19 M.) St. Hilaire-de-Chalions., see above. — 26 M Bourgneuf. The
small port of this name lies IV4 M. to the W. of the station, on a bay.
which, though dangerous, is frequented by fishing-boats. It is bordered
by salt-marshes. An omnibus runs hence to (26 M.) Noirmoutier (see
Baedeker''s So utli -Western France). — 30 M. La Bernerie is a small seaport
and bathing resort; 331/2 M. Le Clion. — 35V2 M. Pornic (Hotel de France;
du Mole., R., L., & A. 2-3 fr.; de la Plage), a small seaport, which ranks
with Le Oroisic and Pornichet (see p. 253) among the most frequented
sea-bathing resorts in this district. It is built on the slope of a hill,
the top of which commands a fine view, and possesses a Chateau of the
13-14th cent., a Chalybeate Spring, and many pleasant villas. In the neigh-
bourhood are several small sheltered coves, with fine sandy beaches. Pornic
is the scene of Browning s 'Filine at the Fair". About 51/2 M. to the W.
is Prifailles (Hotel Ste. Marie), to which an omnibus in connection with
the trains runs in 1 hr., a favourite seaside-resort for the people of Nantes.
The beach is pebbly and the seo-water very strong. In the neighbourhood
is Quirouard, with a chalybeate spring About 2 M. farther to the W.,
at the mouth of the Loire, we reach the Pointe de St. Oildas, opposite the
Pointe du Oroisic (see p. 253)

Fkom Nantes to St. Nazatre and Le Croisic. To St. Na/aire. 40 M.,
railway in 11/2-21/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 30, 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 15 c.)-, to Le Croisic,
55 M., in 21/3 31/4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 20. 6 fr. 80. 4 fr. 45 c.). — From Nantes
to (24 M.) Savenay, see R. 34. The railway to St. Nazaire turns to the
left and approaches the Loire. Opposite, on the left bank, is seen Paim-
boeuf (see above). — 31 M. Donges. Ferry to Paimbceuf, six times daily. —
36 M. Montoir, the junction for the direct line to Paris via 8egro and

ST. NAZAIRE. 33. Route. 253

Chateaub riant (p. 234). — 40 M. St. Nazaire (Buffet; Grand-Hotel; de Bre-
tagne; des Messageries; British vice-consul), a flourishing town with 30,873
inhab., situated at the mouth of the Loire, is the port of Nantes and has
gained in importance what Nantes has lost. Its harbour is of recent crea-
tion, consisting mainly of two basins, together measuring 80 acres in
extent, the excavation of which was begun in 1845. These are surrounded
by 21/2 M. of quays. From St. Nazaire, on the 9th and 21st of every
month, the vessels of the Compagnie Transatlantique start for South
America. Steamers also ply thrice a week between St. Nazaire and New-
haven. The Young Pretender set sail from St. Nazaire in 1745 in a frigate
provided by Mr, Walsh of Nantes. — Steamloat to Nantes^ see p. 245.

46V'2 M. Pornichet (Hotel Casino; des Bains) has an excellent beach for
bathing and is one of the most frequented seaside-resorts in Brittany. It
is, however, very dusty and lacks shade. — 49 M. A'scoublac-la-Baule is
the junction of the branch-line to (4 M.) Guerande (see below). La Banle^
or La Bole (Hotel St. Aubin), is also a sea-bathing place and has a pine
forest We now traverse vast salt-marshes. — 5IV2 M. Le Pouliguen (Hotels),
a small fishing-village, is also visited for sea-bathing. — 53V2 M. Batz^ or
^owrg'-cZe-5a<^ (pronounced 'Ba'; Hotel Lehuede), with sea-baths, is famous
for the quaint costumes and singular customs of its inhabitants, who are
possibly of Saxon stock. Nearly all are 'Paludiers'", or workers in the
salt-marshes. — 55 M. Le Croisic {Guillor4, pens. 6'/2-T fr. ; des Etrangers
or d''Avjou^ pens. 7 fr. ; two bath-establishments), a decayed little town
and fishing- port with 2428 inhab., situated on a small bay near the ex-
tremity of a peninsula, is visited in summer as a seaside-resort. It has,
however, comparatively few attractions. The church dates from the 15-
16th centuries. There are two hospitals for scrofulous children, one of
which (the Muison de St. Jean-de-Diett) includes a bath-establishment open
to the public.

Guerande C*J7(5/e^ Vincent) is a town with 7050 inhab., still surrounded
by Walls of the 15th cent., and containing an interesting church of the
12-16th centuries. The Porte St. Michel is a picturesque old gateway (lanked
by two machicolated towers with pointed caps.

34. From Nantes to Brest.

22IV2 M, Railway in IOV2-I2V2 hrs, (fares 40 fr, 30, 27 fr. 25, 17 fr.
SO c). Passengers may start from the Gare d'Orleans or the Gare de la
Bourse (see p. 245).

I. From Nantes to Vannes and Auray.
To Vannes, 83V2 M., Railway in 3V2-43/4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 35, 10 fr. 40,
6 fr. 70 c). From Vannes to (12 M.) Auray in V2 hr. (fares 2 fr. 25, 1 Ir.
80 c, 1 fr.). — For Plouharnel, Carnac, etc., see p. 256.

Nantes , see p. 245. The train crosses the town and skirts the
Loire. — 3/^ M. La Bourse. Fine view of the harbour to the left.
2^2 M. Chantenay-sur-Loire , connected with Nantes by tramway
(p. 245). The railway continues to skirt the river.

6 M. Basse-Indre is the station also for Indret^ with its ex-
tensive marine -engine works, on an island to the left. 9V2 M.
Coueron^ with large glass-works and an establishment working in
argentiferous lead; 14 M. St. Etienne-de-Montluc. — 24 M. S(yoe-
nai/ (Buffet; Hot. de Bretagne), junction for St. Nazaire, see p. 252.
In 1793 the Vendeans were defeated here by Kleber and Marceau. —
33 M. Pont-Chdteau^ the junction of another line to St. Nazaire (see
p. 234). Beyond (42 M.) Severac the railway crosses and then skirts

254 Route 34. VANNES. From Nantes

the canal from Brest to Nantes. Lines to Rennes (p. 208) and Sable'
(p. 234) diverge to the right. The Vilaine is crossed.

507-2 M. Redon (Buffet; Hotel de France ; de la Poste), a town
with 7000 inhab., is situated on the Vilaine and on the canal be-
tween Brest and Nantes. The interesting old Church of St. Sauveur
(12-14th cent.), near the railway, to the left, has a central tower
of the 12th, and a detached W. tower of the 14th century.

The canal and the Oust^ a tributary of the Vilaine, are crossed.
From ( 61 M.) Malansac a diligence (50 c.) plies to (3 M.) the interest-
ing old town of Rochefort-en-Terre (Lecadre), near the Valley of the
Arz and the Landes des Lanvaux, both frequented by artists. —
68 M. Questembert (Hot. du Commerce).

A branch -railway runs hence to (20V2 M.) Ploermel, joining there
another line from La Brohinihre (p. 213). The country traversed is bleak
and uninteresting ('landes'), but abounds in rude monolithic monuments.
— Ploermel (Hotel de France)^ a town with 6000 inhab., still retains part
of its old walls of the 15th century. The Church of St. Armel^ rebuilt in
the 16th cent., is embellished with a very fine lateral portal and good
stained glass of the 16th cent. ; it contains an altar-piece dating from the
17th cent., and a curious old tomb (14th cent.), decorated with statues.

A road (omn. I1/2 fr.) leads to the E. from Ploermel to (71/2 M.) Josse-
lin. About halfway, to the left of the road, rises a modern pyramid,
commemorating the famous Combat of Thirty., fought between 30 Bretons
and 30 English knights in 1351. After a most sanguinary contest the
former, commanded by Jean de Beaumanoir, vanquished the latter, who
were led by Bembro (Pembroke?). The story rests on the authority
of comparatively modern Breton poets , though the names of the conquer-
ors are inscribed on the obelisk. It is said that as the English were not
numerous enough to provide more than 20 champions , 4 Flemings and
6 Bretons fought on th^ir side. — Josselin (De France; Croix cfOr), a
small town on the Oust, is commanded by the fine Castle of the 14-15th cent.,
in which the famous Connetable de Clisson died in 1407. It belongs to the
Rohan family, whose motto 'ii plus' may be deciphered in various places
in the stone tracery of the exterior parapets. The Church of Notre-Dame
(15th cent.) contains the cenotaph of the Constable, with white marble
statues of himself and his wife, surrounded by statuettes of monks. The
ancient mural paintings should also be observed. An annual pilgrimage
is made to this spot on the Tuesday in Whitsun-Week.

77 M. Elven. The village of that name lies 31/2 M. to the N.
(omn. 50 c). About 1 M. to the S.W. is the ruined castle of
Largouet (13-15th cent.), with two towers (65 ft. and 130 ft. high).

Henry of Richmond (afterwards Henry VII.) and his uncle, the Earl
of Pembroke, wrecked on the coast on their flight after the battle of
Tewkesbury in 1471, were imprisoned here by the Duke of Brittany. Henry
remained here nearly fifteen years, before he effected his escape to France.

83 V2 M. Vannes (Hotel du Dauphin^ R. 1V2-3V-2 fr.; de France,
R., L., & A. 21/4-3 1/4 fr. -, du Commerce), with 21,200 inhab., the cap-
ital of the Departement du Morbihan, is situated on the Conteau,
about 3 M. from the Gulf of Morbihan (p. 255). It has a small har-
bour. Vannes was the chief town of the Veneti(p.2J7), the most im-
placable foes of the Romans in Armorica, and formerly played a con-
spicuous part in the history of Brittany. Now, however, it has sunk
into insignificance. Several of the houses in the old town, which
lies about Y2 M. from the station, are very quaint and picturesque.

to Brest MORBIHAN. 34. Route. 255

Turning to the right at the station and farther on following the
Avenue Yictor-Hugo (to the left) and the Rue du Mene (to the
right), we reach the Grande Place, in which are the Hotel de Viile
(1884; small Musee) and the CoUege Jules Simon (rebuilt in 1886),
with a chapel of the 17th century.

The Cathedral^ which we reach by a street opposite the Hotel
de Ville, built originally in the 13th cent, and largely added to in
the 15-18th cent., has a large W. portal (rebuilt in 1875) flanked
by towers of unequal height. The apsidal chapel is dedicated to the
Spanish Dominican, St. Vincent Ferrier, born at Valentia in 1357,
who died at Vannes in 1419. His tomb is in the N. transept. Several
bishops are also buried in the church.

The Porte St. Patern, a little behind the cathedral, is named
after the neighbouring church. To the left, as we return, is the large
modern Prefecture, from a street before which we have a good view
of the City Walls of the 14-17th cent., the principal relic being the
Tour du Connetab le[i4:th cent.), so named because the Connetable de
Clisson was confined here in 1387 by the Duke of Brittany, just as
the former was on the point of making a descent upon England on
behalf of Charles VI. of France. On the opposite side, behind the
park of the Prefecture, is the Promenade de la Garenne.

The first bridge to the right leads to the Place des Lices, No. 8
in which contains the Archaeological Museum (50 c.; Sun., 2-4, free)
and a Museum of Natural History (50 c; Thurs., 2-4, free).

The Rue St. Vincent leads thence to the Harbour, which is access-
ible to ships of 150 tons burden. To the right is the Promenade
de la Rabine, with a monument to Le Sage, author of 'Gil Bias'
(see below). The Rue du Port, with a quaint old house, and the Rue
Thiers skirt the other side of the old town. The Corn Market, the
Palais de Justice, and the Post Office stand in a large square to the
left. The Rue Thiers ends at the Place de IHotel-de- Ville.

The Morbihan ('Little Sea'), to the S. of Vannes, is a bay or gulf, 6 M.
long and 11 M. broad, almost landlocked by the Peninsulas of Rhuis CE.)
and Locmariaquer (W. ; p. 258), between the extremities of which is a chan-
nel only 1/2 M. wide. The gulf has a flat and very irregular coast-line,
and is studded with numerous fertile islets. — Steamers ply in summer
from the harbour of Vannes (see above) to (2 hrs.) Port JVavalo (Hot. des
Voyageurs, rustic), a small fishing-village near the extremity of the Pen-
insula of Rhuis (a pleasant excursion). The steamers (fare 1 fr., return
IV2 fr.) start at hours varying with the tide, pass the Jle de Conleau^ and
touch at the He d'Arz, the lie aux Moines, and (when the tide permits;
enquire beforehand) Locmariaquer (p. 258). The He de Gavr''inis (p. 258)
is visited from Locmariaquer. — Is^ear Port Navalo are the large village
of Arzoii and the large tumulus known as the Butte de Tumiac. To St.
Gildas and Sarzeau, see below. The Pointe de Kerpenhir , on the coast
opposite Port Navalo (boat across the channel, IV2 fr., not easily obtained)
is within I1/2 M. of Locmariaquer.

From Vannes to Sakzeau (Peninsula of Rhuis), 15 M., diligence (IV2 &
2 fr.) daily, skirting the E. shore of the Morbihan via (6 M.) Noyalo. —
Sarzeau {Hdtel Le Sage; 5100 inhab.), near the centre of the peninsula, is
the birthplace of Le Sage (1668-1747), author of 'Gil Bias'. About 2 M. to
the S.E. is the Chateau de Sucinio . the summer-residence of the dukes of

256 Route 34. AURAY. From Nantes

Brittany, founded in the ISth cent., but partly rebuilt in the 15th. On Ihe
coast, 31/2 M. to the S.W. of Sarzeau, is St. Gildas-de-Rhuis (Hot. Gicquel),
with an old abbey-church and a convent, of which Abelard was abbot for
some time. Port Navalo (p. 255) lies 6 M. to ihe W. (7 M. from Sarzeau).

93 V-2 M. Ste. Anne. About 174 M. to the N. is Ste. Anne-d'Auray
(omn. £0 c. ; Hotel de France; Liond'Or), one of the most frequented
pilgrim-resorts in Brittany, where numerous interesting and dis-
tinctive costumes may he seen, especially in Whitsun-Week and on
July 26th (St. Anne's Day). A new church has been built here in
the Renaissance style, with a tower surmounted by a figure of the
saint. At the end of the village, on the Auray road, is a Monument
to the Ccmte de Chambord (1820-83), representing the deceased in
royal costume, kneeling on a pedestal surrounded with statues of
Duguesclin, Bayard, Ste. Genevieve, and Joan of Arc.

95 M. Auray (Buffet; Hotel du Pavilion; de la Poste)^ a town
of 6466 inhab., with a small harbour on the Loch^ lies about 11/4 M.
to the S.E. of the station. It has few attractions for the tourist,
beyond being excellent headquarters for excursions (see below). It
is also one of the leading centres of the oyster-culture of France.
The battle of Auray, fought in 1364 between Charles of Blois and
John of Montfort, resulted in the defeat and death of the former.

A little to the N.W. of the station is the Chartreuse d'Aurai/, now an
institution for deaf-mutes. Adjoining ihe church is a Sepulchral Chapel,
erected in 18'J'3-29 in memory of 952 'Emigres' captured at (iuiberon in
1795 (see below) and put to death in this neighbourhood on the spot now
marked by a Ghapelte Expiatoire. The former chapel (visitors admitted)
contains a statue of Religion, several busts of the leaders of the expedition,
bas-reliefs, etc. — The road passing the Chartreuse and the expiatory
chapel forms a picturesque walk to (3 M.) Ste. Anne-d'Auray (see above).

Continuation of the railway to Brest, see p. 258. — Railway to St. Brieuc
via Pontivy, see p. 215.

Excursion from Auray to Quiberon, Plouharnel, Carnac,

AND LoOMARIAQUBR.
Railway to Quiberon, I7V2M., in ^ji-i hr. (fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr.
40 c.); to Plouharnel, by the same line, 81,2 M.; thence Omnibus (50 c.) to
(272 M.) Carnac. From Carnac a carriage (about 8 fr.) may be hired to
Loctnariaquer, 7'/2 M. farther lo the W. — A Diligenck {[} 2 fr.) plies
twice a day from Auray in V-l-z hr. to (8V2 M.) Locmariaquer, which may
also be reached direct from Auray by Sailing Boat in about 2 hrs. (10 M.;
18-20 fr.). — Carriage from Plouharnel or Catnac to (1 hr.) Auray, S fr.

41/2 M. Ploemel. — Before reaching (S'/o M.) Plouharnel-
Carnac we see the Menhirs of Vieux- Moulin to the right. The
village of Plouharnel lies about V4 M. to the left of the railway (see
p. 257). — The line now runs along the Peninsula of Quiberon, 6 M.
long, the narrowest part of which is defended by Fort Penthitvre.
At (14 M.) St. Pierre are several groups of menhirs and dolmens.

171/2 M. Quiberon (Hotel de France; Penthitvre), a town with
3060 inhab. and a small sea-bathing establishment, is situated near
the extremity of the peninsula. About 6000 French 'Emigres' were
landed here in 1795 under the protection of the guns of the British

to Brest. CARNAC. 34. Route. 257

fleet, but were met and defeated by the Republican forces under
IToclie. Some 1800 escaped to the British ships ; the rest died on
tlie field or were put to death afterwards.

Good anchorage may be obtained in the Bay of Qulheron, which
is memorable for the naval battle fought in 56 B.C. between the
Romans under young Decimus Brutus and the Veneti (p. 254), a
seafaring people, whose large and strong ships, equipped with
chain-cables and leatliern sails, used to visit Britain. The Veneti,
however, were conquered, their 220 ships destroyed, and the people
sold into slavery by Caesar, who had watched the battle from the
shore. The harbour of Quiberon is at Port Maria, where there are
also sardine-curing factories. Port Haliguen lies about 3/4 M. dis-
tant, on the E. coast of the peninsula.

A steamboat leaves Port Maria or Port Haliguen twice or thrice a day
in summer for Belle-Ile-en-Mer (10 M., in 3/4-1 lir. ; fares 21/2, 2 fr.), the
largest island belonging to Brittany, 11 M. long and 2V2-6 M. broad. The
chief town is Le Palais (Hotel du Commerce; de France), with 4931 inhah.
and a double line of fortification, one modern and one dating from the
16-17th centuries. The inhabitants are engaged in the sardine-fishery and
in the preparation of potted fish. There is also a reformatory on the
island. The coast is in many places picturesque, with remarkable grot-
toes; the most interesting spots may be visited in about 1/2 day by carriage
(8-12 fr.), which should be secured in advance.

Plouharnell (Hotel des Menhirs) is surrounded, like Carnac, by
Ancient Stone Monuments, most of which lie to the W. of the village,
scattered on either side of the road. The principal monuments are
easily found. The Dolmen de Kergavat lies to the left of the road to
Carnac ; the Dolmen ofRunesto and the Dolmens of Mane-Kerioned
a little to the N.E., to the left and right respectively of the road to
Auray. The Menhirs of Vieux-Moulin lie on the other side of the
railway, on the road to Belz, and the large Dolmen of Crucuno
V2 M. from the road and i'^/4 M. from the station. Still farther along
the road, 11/4 M. from the road to Crucuno, are the Lines of Erdeven,
consisting of 1030 menhirs resembling those at Carnac (see below).

Carnac (Hotel des Voyageurs), 1^/4 M. to the S.E. of Plouharnel,
is perhaps even more celebrated for its ancient remains. The
Museum here (50 c.) owes its origin to Mr. Miln (d. 1881), a Scot-
tish antiquary, who made important excavations and discoveries in
this neighbourhood. To the left of the road from Carnac to Loc-
mariaquer rises the Mont St. Michel, a 'galgal' or tumulus, 65 ft.
high and 260 ft. in diameter, consisting chiefly of blocks of stone
heaped up over a dolmen. Fine view from the top, including the
'Lines'. The famous Lines of Carnac, situated about Y2 M. to the
N. of the village, near the road to Auray, consist of two principal
groups of 8-900 standing-stones (there are said to have been origin-
ally 12-15,000), arranged on a moor in the form of a quincunx,
and forming 9 or 10 avenues. All these stones have their smaller
ends fixed in the ground; some of them are fully 16 ft. high, and
some are estimated to weigh at least 40-50 tons. About 1 M. to the

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 17

258 Route 34. LORIENT. From Nantes

E. of Carnac is a piece of moorland named the Bossenno or Boceno
(&occnicw = mounds), where Mr.Miln's excavations brought to light
what is believed to be a Gallo-Roman town.

Farther on, on the way to Locmariaquer (carr., see p. 256), we
pass (472 M.) La Trinite-sur-Mer , a small seaport, wth oyster-
beds. Crossing the river Crach by a ferry at (1/2 M.) Kerisper, we
find ourselves in the Peninsula of Locmariaquer, which bounds the
Morbihan on the N.W. (see p. 255).

Locmariaquer (Hotel Marchand), a small seaport on the Mor-
bihan, has in its neighbourhood perhaps the most remarkable me-
galithic monuments in France. The chief of these are the Mane-
Lud, a dolmen of unusual size, the interior of which should be in-
spected; the Men-er-Hroeck, a menhir originally nearly 70 ft. high,
now overthrown and broken -, and the two dolmens known as the
Dol-ar-Marchadouiren and the Manc-Rutual. All these are passed
on the way from Carnac to Locmariaquer. Beyond the village is
the Mane-er-Hroeck, a tumulus with a cavern (key at the Mairie;
candle necessary), etc. Various Roman antiquities have also been
discovered at Locmariaquer.

The He de Gavrinis ('isle of goats"'), 21/2 M. from Locmariaquer, may
be visited hence by boat (1 pers. 5-6 fr. ; two pers. 7 fr. ; bargaining neces-
sary). It contains a chambered Tumulus, with sculptures'.

Omnibus to Auray, see p. 256; steamboat to Vannes and Port Navalo,
see p. 255.

II. From Auray to Lorient and Quimper.

To Lorient, 2VJ-z M. , Railway in 45-50 min. (fares 4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 70,
1 fr. 75 c.). — From Lorient to Quimper, 4OV2 M., in V/z-i^U ^^' (fares 7 fr.
40 c, 5 fr., 3 fr. 25 c).

Auray, p. 256. — To the right appears the Chartreuse (p. 256).
' — 103 '/2 M. (from Nantes) Landevant. The railway crosses the
Blavet by a viaduct 80 ft. high.

112 M. Hennebont (Hotel du Commerce; de France), a small
seaport with 8074 inhab., is finely situated on the Blavet, the banks
of which afford a pleasant promenade. The Gothic church of Notre-
Dame-de-Paradis, said to have been built by the English, dates
from the 16th century. The relics of the old fortifications include
a Gothic Gateway, by which we enter the old quarter known as the
Ville-Close, where a few quaint old timber-front houses of the
16-17th cent, still linger. Hennebont is noted for its spirited de-
fence by Jeanne de Montfort in 1342-45, described by Froissart. —
Lorient and its harbour appear on the left. The Scorff is crossed.

117 M. Lorient. — Hotels. Geand Hotel de Fkance, Place d'Alsace-
Lorraine, mediocre, doj. 2',2 fr. •, de Bketacjne, Rue Victor-Masso lOf
DU Ctgne, Rue Sully, R., L., & A. 2-3, B. 3/4, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr., incl. wine;
DE l'Edkope, Rue Victor-BIassc 16. — Cafes. Grand, de France^ Continental,
Place d'Alsace-Lorraine; others in the Rue de la Com^die. — Kestaurants.
Normand, Rue Paul-Bert; Buffet, at the station.

TJ. S. Consular Agent, Mons. Leon Deprez.

Lorient^ a fortified military and commercial port, with 41,900
inhab., is situated on the Scorff, near its junction with the lUavet.

to Brest. QUIMPERL]^. 34. Route. 259

It was founded, under the name of V Orient., in the 17tli cent, by the
powerful Compagnie des Indes Orientales, who established their
ship-building yards here. When the company collapsed after the
capture of Bengal by the British in 1753, the dockyards and works
were purchased by the state.

The town is weU built but uninteresting. The Rue Victor-Masse,
diverging to the right from the prolongation of the Cours Chazelle,
leads to the P^ace df Alsace-Lorraine, the principal square. The Rue
des Fontaines, quitting the latter at its left angle, conducts us to two
smaller squares, in one of which is the Church of St. Louis (18th
cent.) and in the other a bronze Statue of Bisson, a young naval lieu-
tenant who blew up his ship in 1827 to prevent it falling into the
hands of Greek pirates. To the left of St. Louis is a small Municipal
Museum (open on Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 4 or 5 ; strangers admitted
on other days also). The Cours de la Bove, to the right of the church,
leads to the commercial harbour (see below) ; in this promenade is
a ^Statue of Victor Masse (1822-84), the composer. The Rue du
Port leads from this statue to the dockyard.

To visit the Dockyard^ with the exception of the part near the
Place d'Armes, which is always open, foreigners require a special
permit from the Ministry of Marine. At the entrance is a Signal
Touer^ 125 ft. in height. The arsenal is interesting, though not so
important as that of Brest. There are also workshops at Caudan, on
the left bank of the Scorff, which is crossed by a floating bridge.

The Commercial Barbour lies at the S. end of the dockyard,
between the town proper and a new suburb. It includes a dry dock
and a floating-dock. The trade is chiefly connected with the re-
quirements of the dockyard.

The Roadstead, beyond the two harbours, is formed by a deep
and safe bay, 31/2 M. long, with a fortified island in the middle.

The first side-street to the left beyond the commercial harbour
brings us to a small square with a Statue ofBrizeux (1806-58), the
poet.

About 11/4 M. from the farther end of the roadstead, on the other hank,
is the small fortified town of Port-Louis ., also of recent origin. It is fre-
quented as a bathing-resort by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood.
Steamboats ply hither from Lorient every 1/2 hr. (15-20 min. ; fare 25, 20 c).
— On the opposite bank is Larmor., 3^/2 M. from Lorient, a pleasure-resort,
also visited by pilgrims. — The island of Groix (Hot. Etesse), 8V'2 M. from
Port Louis, about 41/2 M. long and 13/4 M. broad, is surrounded with cliffs
pierced v^ith caverns, and contains some megalithic monuments. Steam-
boat from Lorient daily (fare 1 fr. 50, 1 fr. 20 c; return 2 fr. 50 c, 2 fr.).

122 M. Gestel. Near Quimperle the railway crosses the La'ita by
k viaduct 108 ft. high.

130 M. Quimperle (^-'Lion d'Or, de France., both moderate), a
town with 8300 inhab., is charmingly situated at the confluence of
the two rivers which form the Laita [Kemper signifying confluence in
the Breton tongue). The more conspicuous church is that oiSt. Michel,
dating from the 14-15th centuries. The other, Ste. Croix, erected

17*

2^0 Route 34. QUIMPER. From Nantes

on the model of tlie church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and
rebuilt since 1862, contains an old rood-screen (16th cent.).

A diligence plies twice daily from Quimperle to (IO1/2 M.) Pont-Aven
C'H6t. Villa Julia; Gloanec, plain), a picturesque village to the S.W., much
frequented by artists. On the right bank of the beautiful Aven^ with its
numerous mills, is the Chateau du H4nan (15-16th cent.J, 21/2 M. from Pont-
Aven. A 'courrier' plies from Pont-Aven to Concarneau (see below). —
Another diligence plies twice daily from Pont-Aven, via the pretty Ford
de Carnoet and the Abbey of >S7. Maurice (13th and 17th cent.) to (8 M.) Le
Pouldu (Hut. Ooulven), a small bathing-place on the right bank of the LaVta.

Excursions may be made from (^)uimperle to (11 M.) St. Fiacre, with a
chapel of the 15th cent., containing a beautiful *Rood-lott of 1440, and to
(13 M.) Le Faouet (Croix dWr ; Lion d''Or), a characteristic Breton town
with 3142 inhab. , near which is the tine 15th cent. CJiapelle Sie. Barbe^
curiously perched on a rock, 300 ft. above the Elle. A diligence plies daily
from Quimperle 10 (23 M.) Gourin (p. 215) via (2V2hrs. ; fare 2 fr.) Le Faouet;
carr. and pair from Quimperle 10 fr. — About 1^/4 M. to the N.E. of
Quimperle is the Chapelle de Rosgrand, with a Renaissance rood-loft.

138 M. -Bannalec is within 7 M. of Pont-Aven (see above). —
147 M. Rosporden (*II6tel Continental). Branch to Carhaix, see p. 215.

A branch-railway runs from Rosporden to (10 M.) Concarneau ('-Hotel
des Voyageurs ; Grand Hotel; de France)., a town with 6500 inhab. and a good
harbour, picturesquely situated on the E. side of the Bay of La Forest or
Fouesnant. The ancient quarter of the town, the Ville-Close^ lies upon an
islet surrounded by Bamparts, dating in part from the 15th century. The
leading industries are the sardine-fishery and the preserving and packing
of sardines. At the mouth of the harbour is an Aquariwn. communicating
directly with the sea, where large quantities of lobsters are reared. —
Concarneau is supposed to be the 'Plouvenec" of Miss Howard's charming
and pathetic story of 'Guenn\ 'Nevin', where Guenn danced at the Pardon, is
probably Pont-Aven, and Les Glinans may be identified with the 'Lannions'.
— At Beuzec-Conq (4(X:0 inhab.), IV4 M, to the ^^E. of Concarneau, is the
handsome modern Chateau de Keryolet or Kiolet, bequeathed with its rich
furniture to the department as a kind of Musee, by the Russian Princess
Chauveau-Narischkine (d. 1893). — Steamer 4 times daily from Concarneau
I0 (V2 hr.) Beg-Meil (Hotel), a bathing-place on the opposite side of the bay.

158 M. Quimper {Hotel de I'Efie; du Pare, R., L., & A. 270-5,
B. 3/4-1^ dej. 21/2, 1>- 3 fr.; both in the Rue du Pare; de France,
Rue de la Prefecture, R. 2-5, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D- 3 fr.; Buffet, at the
station), 'a pleasant river-side city of fables and gables', the capital
of the Departement du Finistcre and the seat of a bishop, occupies
a fine situation at the confluence of the Sttir and the Odet. Pop.
18,557.

The *Cathbdr.vl of St. Corentin, near the quay on the right
bank, is one of the finest Gothic edifices in Brittany. Though its
construction extended over two centuries (13-15th), it is marked by
great unity of plan. The Portals are richly sculptured but have
suffered from the hand of time. The spires on the towers are modern.

The Choir is the lincst part of the interior, although its axis is not
parallel with that of the nave. Other features of interest are the stained
glass (both ancient and modern), the mural paintings (chiefly by Van" Dargent,
a modern Breton artist), the altar-pieces and statues of the 14th and 15th
cent., and the tombs of the bishops. The "High Altar is a gorgeous modern
work in gilded bronze, adorned with statuettes and alto-reliefs, and sur-
mounted by a canopy of painted and gilded wood.

The Place St. Carentin is embellished with & Statue ofLa'cnnec,

to Brest. PENMARCH. 34. Route 261

the physician (1781-1826), inventor of the stethoscope, who was
born at Quimper. The Hotel de Ville, containing the public library,
is also in this square.

The MusEE, in the building to the left, is open daily, except
Mon., 12 to 4.

On the groundfloor are two rooms containing an interesting Archaeol-
ogical Collection, and a group of 44 figures illustrating Breton costumes.
The first floor contains a Picture Gallery, with several good examples of old
masters, especially of the Flemish and Dutch schools. The most important
is by Alonso Cano (the Virgin presenting to St. Ildefonso a chasuble em-
broidered by herself}, in the second room to the left of the entrance. The
Musee also contains a valuable collection of engravings and some sculptures.

The Lycee, farther on in the same direction,, has been recently
rebuilt, but preserves part of the old Town- Walls. — The street in
front of the cathedral crosses the Steir, a tributary of the Odet, and
passes near the Church of St. Mathieu, which dates from the 16th cent.,
with the exception of the modern tower. — On the other side of the
Odet, at the foot of Mont Frugy, lie the Prefecture and the Alices de
Locmaria. The Church of Locmaria (11th and 15th cent.), at the
end of the Allees, is interesting to archaeologists. There is a small
harbour on the Odet, 10-11 M. from the sea.

About 11 M. from Quimper (steamboat thrice weel<ly), at the mouth of
the Odet, lies Binodet (Grand Hotel), a village frequented for sea-bathing.

From Quimper to Pont-l'Abbk and Penmaroh.. To Pont-FAbbe, 13 M.,
railway in 40-55 min. (fares 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 10 c); then 'courrier'
(twice "daily) to (71/2 M.) Peumarch (IV2 fr.) and (91/2 M.) St. Gut'nole (see
below). — 10 M. Comhrit-Trim^oc. About 3 M. to the N.W., on the right
bank of the Odet, are the interesting remains of the Roman Villa of Le
Pireimou. — 13 M. Pont-l'Abbe (TAon cfOr; des Voyageurs), a town with
5800 inhab., on the river of the same name, contains a Church (14-16th cent.)
which belonged to a convent, the buildings of which still exist. The
cloisters are very graceful. The local costumes here are among the most
peculiar in Brittany. Omnibus (50 c.) daily in summer to (372 M.) Loctudy
(Hot. des Bains), a modest bathing-place, with a curious Romanesque church.

Penmarch (pron. 'penmar'; Hdt. de Bretagne), a village with 4300 in-
hab., 71/2 M. to the S.W. by road, is the modern representative of a once
flourishing town, which is said to have had 10,(X30 inhab. in the middle
ages, and the scattered ruins of which extend as far as(lV4M.) the Pointe
de Penmarch. The discovery of Newfoundland, the inroads of the sea, war,
and the disappearance of the cod-fish, on which it chiefly depended for its
industrial importance, ruined this town in the 16th century. The principal
church is now that of St. Nonna, dating from the 16th century. — On the
Pointe de Penmarch is the Phare d''Eckmiihl, a lighthouse 200 ft. in height,
erected in 1893-97, with an electric light visible to a distance of 60 M.

St. Gruenole (Gra7id Hotel; de Bretagne), a small sea-port and bathing
place, is picturesquely situated on a rocky and dangerous coast.

From Quimper to Douarnenez and Audierne (Pointe du Raz), 27^/2 M.,
railway in 13/4-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 55, 2 fr. 25 c). — 15 M. Douarnenez
(Hdtel du, Commerce; de France), a town with 11,465 inhab., situated on a
fine bay of the same name, is an important centre of the sardine-fishery.
Steamer 4 times weekly in summer to (3/4 M.) Morgat (p. 221). — The pardon
(last Sun. in Aug.) of Ste. Anne-la- Paltie , 7 M. to the N. of Douarnenez,
attracts about 30,0(30 visitors annually (special boat and omnibus services).

At Douarnenez carriages are changed for the local line to Audierne. —
24 M. Pont-Croix (2200 inhab.), with a curious old collegiate church, Notre-
Dame-de-Roscudon (13-15th cent.). — 27V2 M. Audierne (Du Commerce; de
France) was once like Penmarch (see above) an important town, but now

262 Route 34. CHATEAULIN.

contains only 4380 inhabitants. — The Pointe du Raz (carr. 8-12 fr.), the
westernmost point of Finistere, 9V2 M. from Audierne, commands an almost
constantly wild and tempestuous sea-view. Visitors may sometimes arrange
to spend the night at the Lighthouse. It is hazardous to proceed to the N.,
towards the Enfer de Plogoff and the Baie des Tripassis. without minute
instructions and precautions (guide advisable; 1 fr.)- — About 6 M. to the
W. of the point is the islet of Sein, the Sena of the ancients, once the
scat of a Druid sanctuary and oracle.

III. rrom Quimper to Brest.

64 M. Railway in 2V2-3V4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 95, 5 fr. 15 c).

Beyond Quimper the railway crosses the Odet, traverses a tunnel,
and then, bending northward, ascends the valley of the Steir^ which
it repeatedly crosses. 169 M. (from Nantes) Quemeneven. We cross a
viaduct 80 ft. in height.

i76 M. CMteaulin (Hotel de la Grand" Maisonj, a town with
P)857 inhab., picturesquely situated on the navigable Aulne. In the
neighbourhood are important slate-quarries. The only relic of the
castle, which stood on a rock on the left bank of the Aulne, is the
Chapel of Notre-Dame, dating from the 15-16th centuries.

A steamboat (2 fr.) plie=! twice weekly from Povt-Launap, the harbour of
Chateaulin, 13/4 M. down the river (omnibus), to Brest (p. 219) in 5 hrs..
touching at various intermediate place'^. — A diligence runs daily from
Chateaulin to (21 M.) Crozon in 4 hrs. (fare 3 fr.). — Pleyhen (5617 inhab.),
7 31. to the N.E. of Chateaulin, has a Gothic church and a curious calvary,
resembling that at Plougastel (p. 218).

The river is now crossed by means of a viaduct, 390 yds. long
and 160 ft. high. The district becomes hilly, and another viaduct,
130 ft. high, is crossed. 185 M. Quimerc'h. Beyond a tunnel, V4 ^I-
long, we see the roads of Brest on the left. 192 M. Hanvec. — The
name of (19372 M.) Daoulas is said to be derived from the Breton
words ^monster daou laz\ meaning 'monastery of the two murders',
and the legend relates that the monastery here was originally found-
ed in expiation by a knight who had slain two monks at the altar
in the 6th century. The chief remains of the monastery are parts
of the church and cloisters, dating from the 12th century. A dili-
gence (1 fr.) plies hence to (7 M.) Plougastel (p. 218). — Another
viaduct is crossed, 1/4 ^^- long and 120 ft, high. — Beyond (203 M.)
Dirinon the railway descends towards the Elorn and crosses the river.

At(2iOM,) Landerneau we join the line fromRennes (see p. 218).

35. From Paris to. Tours.

a. ViS, Orleans and Blois.

145 M. Ratlwat in BVi-O'A hrs. (fares 26 fr. .30, 17 fr. 80, 11 fr. 65 c). Tl>c
trains start from the Gare d'Orlcans, near the Jardin des Plantes (PI. G, 25).

I, From Paris to Orleans.

75 M. Railway in 13/4-41/4 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 65, 0 fr. 15, 5 fr, 95 c). Ex-
press-trains to Tours do not enter the station of Orleans, but go on direct
from Les Aubrais, see p. 265. Comp. the Map, p. lUO.

At (I3/4M.) the station of Orleans-Ceinture we pass under the

CHOISY-LE-ROI. 35. Route. 263

Ligne de Ceinture, iDefore quitting Paris. To the right is Ivry^ with
its ISiTge Hospital for Incurables. 5V2 M. Vitry. The railway returns
to the hank of the Seine near Choisy.

6 M. Choisy-le-Roi (Hot. des Voyageurs; Restaur. Pompadour),
a pleasant town with 9900 inhah., owes its affix to the fact that
IjOuIsXV. built a chateau here as a shelter for his debaucheries. The
Rue du Pont, near the station, passes the old Communs du Chateau,
now occupied, like the other scanty remains of the chateau at the
end of the Rue de Paris, by a porcelain-factory. Farther on, on the
right side of the street, are the Mairie and the Church, both dating
also from the reign of Louis XV. In the open space at the junction
of the Rue du Pont, the Route de Sceaux, and the Avenue de Paris
stands a bronze statue, by L. Steiner, of Rouget de I'Isle, author of
the 'Marseillaise', who died at Choisy in 1836. The fine Avenue
de Paris meets the Avenue de Versailles at the railing of the old
chateau. There are numerous pleasant private houses in this new
quarter of Choisy, which is connected with Paris by tramway.

Our line next passes under the Ligne rle Grande Ceinture.
9'/2 M. Ahlon. The Seine reappears on the left. lO'/o M. Athis-
Mons. The wooded heights are dotted with picturesque country
houses. The line to Corbeil and Montargis diverges to the left(p.398).

127'2 M. Juvisy-sur-Orge (Kot. Belle-Fontainel has a station used
by both lines. The railway now ascends the valley of the Orge,
which is crossed a little beyond the station by the Pont des Belles-
Fontaines (18th cent.), consisting of two bridges, one above the other.

13'/'2 M. Savigny-sur-Orge has a fine chateau of the 15th cent-
ury. A little farther on is a section of the Ligne de Grande Ceinture,
leading to Palaiseau (Versailles).

15 M. Epinay-sur-Orge is approached and quitted by viaducts.
In the distance, to the right, appears the tower of Montlhery (see
below). — 16 M. Perray- Vaucluse. On the hill to the right appears
the large lunatic asylum of Vaucluse, belonging to the city of Paris.
— 18 M. St. Michel-sur-Orge.

An omnibus (30 c.) pliea hence to (P/i M.) Montlhery (CJiapeau Rouge).,
famous for its Feudal Castle. The ancient donjon (13th cent.) rises con-
spicuously on a hill to a height of 100 ft. Fine view from the top.
Montlhery is noted for an indecisive battle fought in its neighbourhood in
1465, between Louis XI. and the 'Ligue du Bien Public', commanded by
Charles the Bold, afterwards Duke of Burgundy. — To the right of the
road to Montlhery is Longpont., a village with a curious old Priory Churchy
which has been largely restored in its original Romanesque style.

20 M. Britigny. This village must not be confounded withBre-
tigny-les-Chartres , b^j-i M. to the S.E. of Chartres, which gives
name to the Treaty ofBretigny, concluded in 1360 between Ed-
ward III. of England and John of France. — Railway to Tours via
Vendome, see p. 267.

28Y2 M. Chamarande, to the left, with a chateau built by Mansart.
To the right, as we approach Etampes, appears the ruined Tour
Ouinette, 90 ft. in height, the relic of a castle of the 12th century.

264 Route 35. ETAMPES. From Paris

35 M. Etampes [Buffet; Hotel du Grand -Monar que ^ Place
Romanet; du Grand- Courrier, Rue St. Jacques 27), a town with
8637 inhab., in a valley to the left, carries on a considerable trade
in grain and flour. Three small rivers serve to work the large mills.

The Rue du Chateau, opposite the station, leads to the Church
of St. Basile.^ dating mainly from the 15-16th cent., with a handsome
Romanesque portal and a 12th cent, tower. In the interior are several
antique bas-reliefs and some ancient and modern stained glass. To
the right of the church is the Hotel de Diane de Poitiers (16th cent.),
now occupied by a savings-bank in front and the small Musee Elias-
Robert behind (open free on Sun.) In the courtyard are some at-
tractive sculptures. A little lower, to the left, is the Church of
Notre-Dame (12th cent.), at one time fortified, and provided with
a fine tower and spire. The first turning to the right in the adjoin-
ing square, and then the first to the left, bring us to the Hotel de
Ville, an elegant turreted building of the 16th cent., enlarged in the
19th. Adjacent is the old Hotel d'Anne de Pisseleu (mistress of
Francis I.), dating from the 16th cent, and now occupied as a
grocer's shop. The Rue St. Jacques leads hence, to the left, to the
Place du The'atre, in which stands El. Robert's marble statue of
Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, the naturalist (1772-1844), who was born at
Etampes. Farther on is the Church of St. Gilles (12th, 13th. and
16th cent.), and still farther on, about 1 M. from St. Basile, is that
of St. Martin, a curious building of the 12th cent., with a leaning
tower in the Renaissance style. The portal, in the style of the 13th
cent., is modern.

The fine park of Chateau Brnnehaut , l^/i M. to the N.E., is open to
visitors. — Tour Guinette., see p. 263. — A branch-line runs from Etampes
to (20Vi M.) Auneau (p. 267), and another is about to be opened to Pitftiviers
and Beaune-la-Rolande (see Baedeker'^s SontJi- Western France).

On quitting Etampes the train passes through a cutting, skirts
the town (view of St. Martin's to the left), and ascends a steep in-
cline (mounting 180 ft. in 3^2 M.) to the plateau of La Beauce,
one of the granaries of France. The view is extensive but monoton-
ous. — 55 M. Toury.

About 6V-' M. to the W. is JlourraM-Ste-Croix, near which the English
defeated the French in 1429 in an engagement known as the 'Battle of
Herrings'', from the supply of fish which the former were conveying to
the camp before Orleans.

A branch-line runs from Toury to Voves (p. 59); and another (narrow-
gauge) to (20 M.) Pithiviers (see above).

At (67 M.l Chevilly Prince Frederick Charles defeated General
d'Aurelles de Paladine on Dec. 3rd, 1870. Reyond (70 M.) Cercottcs
the scenery becomes more attractive, and vineyards begin to appear.

74 M. Les Aubrais (Pjuifet) is the junction at which passengers
for Orle'ans by the express-trains to Tours change carriages. The
ordinary trains run into the station at Orleans.

75 M. Orleans (Buffet), see p. 270.

to Tows. BEAUGENCY. 35. Route. 2Qb

II. From Orleans to Tours.

70 M. Railway in 2V4-3V4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 65, 8 fr. 55, 5 fr. 60 c). —
Best views to the left.

Travellers from Orleans join the express-trains at the junction
of Les Aubrais (see p. 264). The ordinary trains do not pass Les
Aubrais. To the right diverges the railway to Chartres (p. 59).
The line to Tours follows the course of the Loire.

79 M. (from Paris) La Chapelle-St-Mesmin; 82 M. St. Ay.
86 M. Mewngf-swr-LoiVe (Hot. St. Jacques), with 3210 inhab., has
a fine Gothic church of the 12th cent, and a gateway of the 16th,
belonging to the old fortifications. Jean de Meung, the continuer of
Guillaume de Lorris's 'Roman de la Rose' (p. 399), was born here
in the 13th century. About 3 M. to the E. is CLery, in the interesting
15th cent, church of which Louis XI. is buried. Louis wore a small
leaden figure of Our Lady of Ole'ry in his hat (see 'Quentin Dur-
ward'). A long viaduct is crossed.

91 M. Beaugency (Ecu de Bretagne^ St. FAienne^ Place du Martroi),
an ancient town with 4000 inhab., was formerly fortified and has re-
peatedly been besieged both in mediaeval and modern times. A street
leading to the left from the large Place du Martroi conducts us to
the Tour de I'Horloge, one of the old town-gates, at the beginning
of the Rue du Change. Farther on in the latter street we pass the
attractive Renaissance facade (restored in 1893) of the Hotel de Ville.
The house No. 3 Rue du Change has a fine Gothic door. A street
ascending hence to the right leads to the Tour St. Firmin^ the relic
of a church of the 16th cent., near which rises the massive square
Keep of the old castle. A Statue of Joan of Arc, erected in 1896 in
the Place St. Jermin, commemorates her victory over the English at
Beaugency in 1429. The Chateau, built in the 15th cent., is now a
house of refuge. Adjacent is the Church of Notre-Dame^ an old
abbey-church in the Romanesque style of the 11th cent., several
times restored. A little lower down are the I'our du Diahle, some
remains of the Abbey, of the 17-18th cent., and a Bridge over the
Loire, 480 yds. long, with Gothic arches.

981/2 M. Mer. 102 M. Suevres has two 11th cent, churches. The
chateau at (104 M.) Menars dates from the latter half of the 17th
century. The train now crosses the line to Romorantin (p. 278),
and the town and castle of Blois come into sight on the left.

IIOV2 M. Blois (Buffet), see p. 275.

On leaving the station of Blois, the train enters a cutting, beyond
which a fine view of the Loire opens on the left. 1 171/9 M. Chouzy.
— 120 M. Onzain.

About 1 M. from tlie station, on a bill on the left bank, rises tb
Chateau of Chaumont (15-16th cent.), now the property of the Princesse
de Broglie. Visitors are admitted daily in the absence of the family, at
other times on Thurs. only. The main buildings are flanked by battle-
mented towers, and similar towers protect the entrance, which is curiously
ornamented. The buildings which completed the square at the end of the

266 Route 35, AMBOISE. From Paris

court have been demolislied, ao that nothing interrupts the beautiful *View
thence of the valley of the Loire, The interior contains some interesting
works of art, tapestry from Paris and Beauvais, and souvenirs of the
possession of the chateau by Diana of Poitiers and by Catherine de Medicis.
— The village of Chaumont (Hotel de 1' Avenue de Chateau) is reached
before the chateau.

Beyond Onzain the chateau of Chaumont is seen to the left.
1221/2 M. Veuves; 130 M. Limeray. In the distance, to the left, is
the chateau of Amboise.

133 M. Amboise [Lion d'Or, Cheval Blanc, on the quay, R. from
2, de'j, 21/2, D- 3 fr.), a town with 4453 inhab., lies partly on a hill,
on which rises the famous *Castl€, still imposing with its lofty walls
and ramparts defended by three massive round towers.

This castle, which belonged to the crown from 1434 till 1762, became
the property of the Orleans family under the Restoration, Its name is
specially associated with the conspiracy formed in 1560 by La Renaudie
and the Huguenots to remove by force the young king Francis II. from
the influence of the Guises. The plot was revealed, and 1200 of the con-
spirators are said to have been butchered at the castle in presence of the
court, which included Francis and his bride, Mary, Queen of Scots, as
well as Catherine de Medicis and her other two sons, afterwards Charles IX.
and Henri III. The Edict of Amboise granted toleration to the Huguenots
in 1563. The castle was long used as a state-prison, and the Algerian
chief, Abd-el-Kader, was coniined here from 1847 till 185'2. In 1875 the.
Comte de Paris began the restoration of the castle, which was tinally sold
in 1895 to the Due d'Aumale, to be converted into an asylum for military
veterans.

The interior is shown by a custodian who lives to the left in the
vaulted passage leading to the garden (now open to the publicl. On
the W. side of the garden is the beautiful 15th cent. Gothic '* Chapel
of St. Hubert, restored in the reign of Louis Philippe, above the
door of which are fine bas-reliefs of the conversion of the saint and
other scenes from his life. Within the chapel are the remains of
Leonardo da Vinci, who died in 1519 at Amboise, whither he had
been summoned by Francis I. The towers (130 ft. high) are so mas-
sive that the place of stairs within is taken by spiral inclined planes,
by which horses and even carriages may ascend. At the end of the
terrace (fine view) a low doorway is erroneously shown as that against
which Charles VIII. struck his lieail, thus causing his death (1498).

The Hotel de Ville (16th cent. ; restored in 1691), the churches
of St. Florentln (15-16th cent.) and St. Denis (interesting Roman-
esque capitals), and an old City Oate (14th or 15th cent,) may also
be noticed.

From Amboise to (71/2 M.) Cfienonceaux (p. 283), via the Foret cVAmhoise,
carr, 12 fr,

139 M. Vouvray. The vineyards of this district yield a well-
known white wine. The Loire is crossed. 140 M. Montlouis is situated
on a hill, the caverns in which were formerly inhabited.

144 M. St. Pierre-des-Corps (Buffet). Passengers to Tours by
the Bordeaux express-trains change carriages here ; the ordinary
trains run into the station of Tours. Tours is seen to the right; and
after crossing the canal connecting the Cher and the Loire we see

to Tours. CHATEAUDUN. 35. Route. 267

the handsome Chateau of Beaujardin to the left. On the same side
diverges the line to Bordeaux. "We next join the line from Nantes.
145 M. Tours, see p. 279.

b. Yik Vendome.

153 M. Railway in 6-71/2 lirs. (fares the same as via Orleans 5 p. 262).

From Paris to (20 M.) Bretigny, see p. 263. The Vendome
line diverges to the right from that to Orleans, and ascends an incline.
23V2 M. Arpajon; 251/2 M. Breuillet, 21/2 M. to the N. of *5^ Sul-
pice-de-Fav teres, which possesses a fine Gothic church of the 13th
century. From (26 M.) St. Chiron, a village with attractive environs,
a pleasant walk may be taken to the Buttes de Bdville, in the park
belonging to the 17th cent, chateau of that name, 1/4 M. to the W.
The railway traverses a prettily wooded valley.

35 M. Dourdan ('Hdf ei deLyon; du Croissant), a town with 3211
inhab., possesses the ruins of a Castle built by Philip Augustus,
consisting mainly of a massive circular donjon and a girdle wall,
flanked by nine smaller towers and surrounded by a moat. The
adjoining Church is an interesting edifice of the 12-18th cent.; in
the interior the columns of the triforium, the bosses of the vaulting
in the side-chapels, the pulpit, and the mural paintings (the two
last modern) may be particularized.

Beyond (38 M.) Ste. Mesme we enter La Beauce (p. 264). — ^
— 48 M. Auneau (Hotel de France), IV4 M. to the left of the little
town of that name, which retains the donjon of its old castle. Auneau
is the junction of lines to Chartres (198), to Etampes (p. 264), and
to Maintenon (p. 195).

62 M. Voves, also on the railway from Chartres to Orle'ans (see
p. 59; to Toury, see p. 264"). — 75 M. Bonneval (Hot. de France),
a town on the Loir^ with 3818 inhab., contains an interesting church
of the 12th cent., with a tower partly rebuilt in the 16th, and an
abbey of the 12th, 16th, and 17th cent., now a lunatic asylum. — •
The train crosses the Loir and descends the pretty valley of that
stream, commanding an extensive view to the right.

84 M. ChS,teaudun (Buffet; Hotel de la Place; du Bon-Labou~
rear, R., L., & A. 2-3, de'j. 21/2, D- 3 fr.), a town with 7460 inhab.,
on the left bank of the Loir, occupies the site of the Gallo-Roman
Castrodunum. In the middle ages it was the capital of the Comtes
de Dunois. It has been frequently burned down, on the last occasion
by the Germans in 1870, a fact to which it owes the regularity of
its plan.

The avenue in front of the station and the Rue Chartres, to the
left, lead to the Place du Dix-Huit Octobre, with the Hotel de Ville
(small Musee) and a modern Renaissance Fountain, by Gaullier.

The Rue de Luynes, to the right of the Hotel de Ville, leads to the
*Castle, an interesting edifice, shown on application to the concierge.
The original fortress was erected in the 10th cent, on the pointed cliffs

(

'i

268 Route 35. VENDOME. From Paris

above the Loir; the donjon, a huge round tower, 150 ft. high, to the
left of the courtyard, was rebuilt in the 12th cent.; the chapel and
adjoining facade were added by the celebrated Dunois, commonly
called the 'Bastard of Orleans', in the 15th cent. ; while the facade on
the right side, with its elaborate external ornamentation, dates from
the 16th century. The interior contains a restored chapel, a Renais-
sance staircase, and the 'salles des400 gardes'. The view of the castle
from the banks of the Loir (descent on the left side of the castle) is
highly imposing.

The small neighbouring square contains a ruined Gothic chapel,
and farther on, as we descend on the other side of the castle, are
some curious old Houses. Opposite the end of the Rue du Chateau
is a house with a carved wooden fagade in the style of the Renais-
sance; and at the end of the next street is a stone facade of the
same period.

The Eglise de la Madeleine (12th cent.), at the same place, be-
longed to an abbey, of which the buildings to the right and left, now
occupied by a hospital and the courts of law, also form part. The
Romanesque arches in the right aisle and the choir-stalls are worthy
of notice.

The Rue de la Madeleine brings us back to the Place duDix-Huit
Octobre, whence the Rue Gambetta leads to the left to the Church of
St. Valerien, a building of the 12th cent., with a stone spire and a
Romanesque side-portal. Beneath the organ, in the interior, is a
fresco of the 14th cent., sadly injured. — The same street, by which
we may return to the station, leads to the Cemetery, in which are a
ruined Gothic Chapel and a Monument to those who fell in defence
of the town on October 18th, 1870,

Railway from Nogent-le-Rotrou and Courtalain to OrUans, see p. 109.

As we quit Chateaudun, the cemetery with its ruined chapel is
seen to the right; farther on is a chateau of the 15th century.

91 M. Cloyes has a fine belfry of the 15th century. Extensive
view to the right. 967-2 M. Morie-St-Hilaire. 100 M. Freteval has a
ruined chateau of the 11th cent., to the right of the railway. Several
caverns may be observed in the hill-sides on the banks of the Loir,
in some cases still inhabited (p. 274). 103 '/o M. Pczou.

110 M. Vendome [Hotel St. Martin, Place St. Martin; du Com-
merce, Grande Rue; Lion d'Or, Rue St. Bie), a town with 9777 in-
liab., is situated on the Loir, about ''^j^ M. to the S.E. of the station.
Vendome is the Roman Vindocinum. In the 10th cent, it became the
capital of an independent barony, which in 1515 was made a duchy.
The dukes of Vendome were for a long time members of the Bour-
bon family.

Crossing an arm of the river and proceeding in a straight direc-
tion, we pass behind tlie Chapel of the Lyce'e, in the Flamboyant
style. Tlie Lycce itself, an ancient college, founded by Ce'sar, Due
de Vendome and natural son of Henri IV, dates from 1623-39.

to Tours. VENDOME. 35. Route. 269

— Farther on is the Place St. Martin, in which rises an elegant
Tower^ the relic of a church of the Renaissance. On the right is a
curious timber-house of the 15th century.

The '"Chukch op the Trinity, an interesting edifice of the
12-15th cent., on the lelt side of the street, formerly belonged
to a Romanesque abbey (12th cent.), the picturesque" remains
of which are seen in the square in front. In front of the portal rises
a magnificent Belfry^ in the Transition style of the 12th cent.,
crowned by a stone spire. The interior of this tower should be
examined by those interested in architecture, especially the large
apartment on the groundfloor and the curiously arranged belfry
stage. The Facade of the church is an elaborately ornamented
example of the Flamboyant style.

The Intkkioe, of the 14-15tli cent., produces an effect of great dignity.
The triforium and the windows attract attention hy their size. The tran-
septs, which date from the 13th cent., are lower than the nave, and are
vaulted in the domical style characteristic of Anjou. In the choir are some
antique stained glass, thirty-two "Stalls of Ihe 15-16th cent., and a marble
Altar in the style of the 15th century. The tears and inscriptions on the
early-Renaissance Screen of the sanctuary recall that the abbey claimed
to possess one of the tears shed by Christ at the tomb of Lazarus. Other
features of interest are two Altar-Pieces (16th cent.) in the chapels flanking
the apsidal chapel^ the 'Pulpit, a modern work in the style of the stalls;
and the Renaissance Fonts, in the first chapel to the left of the nave. —
To the right of the nave, and communicating with its last bay by a dooi'-
way of the 16th cent., are some remains of the Cloisters, erected in the
14-15th centuries.

A large building (17th cent.) to the S., between the church and
the main channel of the Loir, which also belonged to the abbey, is
now occupied as barracks. As we cross the neighbouring bridge
(Rue St. Bie') we see, on the heights of the left bank, the ruined
Castle, which dates from the 11th century. Fragments of the outer
wall, with ten partly ruined towers, still remain. The best-preserved
tower occupies the highest point, to which the approach on the right
conducts. Fine view from the top. The castle was dismantled in
1589, when Henri IV took it from the League.

The Hotel de Ville, originally a gateway, erected in the 14-15th
cent., stands by the next bridge, at the end of the Rue Potterie,
and may be reached either by the left bank or by the Rue Gues-
nault, near the Place St. Martin, and the Rue Saulnerie, in which
a quaint 16tli cent, house may be observed in passing. The facade
of the Hotel de Ville fronts the bridge; the battlements are adorned
with medallions of the 16th century.

In the Rue Potterie is the MusrE , a modern brick structure,
open on Sun., 10-3, but accessible also on other days. In front stands
a bronze statue, by Irvoy, of Bonsard, the poet (1524-85), who
was born in the Vendomois (see p. 198).

Geound-Flooe. The room to the right contains funereal Sculptures
and other Monuments, and the Prehistoric Collection. In the room to the
left are Plans, Draivings, and Views of monuments.

FiEST Flooe. Entrance Hall. Natural History Collections (Peruvian
mummy) and Paintings. — Main Room. Archaeological Collection, compris-

I

270 Route 36. ORLEANS. Hotels.

ing antiquities found in the neighhourliood , including Boman gold orna-
ments CNos. 750, 751, 780), Frankish weapons and pottery, Kenaissance
chasuble (No. 51), articles connected with the worship of the Holy Tear,
and a relic of St. Stephen 5 ethnographical curiosities 5 medals*, paintings.

Farther on is the Church of the Madeleine, with a fine loth cent,
spire and a large stained-glass window of 1529. The other windows
and paintings are modern. The street to the right leads to the Lyce'e.

Vendome is also a station on the railway from Blois to Pont-de-Brave
(see p. 278).

On leaving Vendome, the train quits the valley of the Loir.
120 M. St. Amand-de-Vendome ; 124 M. Villechauve.

128 M. Cli&teaurenault (Ecu de France), a town with 4500 in-
hah., has a castle of the 14th cent., and the donjon of one still older.

A narrow - gauge railway runs hence to (64 M.) Fort-Boulet (p 235),
via (25 M.) NeuilU- Pont- Pierre (p. 204) and (38 M.) Chateau- la- Valli'ere
(p. 198). — Chateaurenault is also a station on the line from Sarge to
Tours via Vauvray (p. 198).

Beyond (133 M.) Villedomer the train crosses a viaduct, 88 ft.
high. Fine view. Beyond (149 M.) Fondettes-St-Cyr we cross the
Loire aud see to the left the scanty ruins of the chateau of Plessis-
les-Tours (p. 283). We soon join the line to Nantes via Angers
(p. 267). — 153 M. Tours (Buffet), see p. 279.

36. Orleans.

Hotels. St. Aignan (PI. a; C, 1), not far from the station, facing the
Rue Bannier, R. 2-10, dej. 3, D. 3V2 fr. ; *Gkand Hotel d'Okli>ans (PI. b;
C, 2), Rue Bannier 118; Geaxd Hotel du Loieet (PI. c; C, 2), Rue Ban-
nier 18; BouLE d'Ok (PI. d; C, 3), Rue d'llliers 9. — Furnished Apartments
in the Rue Bourgogne, Rue Ste. Catherine, and Rue des Pastoureaux, from
30-40 fr. per month.

Cafes and Restaurants in the Place du Martroi; at the H6t el St. Aignan ;
Charpentier, Rue Bourgogne 215, recommended to those spending some time
in Orleans. — Buffet, at the station.

Cabs. Per drive ^/i, per hr. 2 fr. ; at night IV2 and 2 fr. ; 25 and 50 c.
extra beyond the boulevards or the Loire.

Tramway from Les Aydes on the N. to i\i.& Barrier e d'' Olivet on the S.,
via the Rue Bannier and the Rue Royale, etc.; from the Place Bannier to
the bridge 15 and 10 c, to Olivet (p.* 274) 25 and 20 c. — To Ouzouer, see
p. 274. — Omnibus from the Porte de Bourgogne (PI. 6, 8) to the Porte
Madeleine (PI. A, 3).

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. E. 4), Rue de Bourgogne 187.

Baths. Bains du Chdtelet, Rue Charles Sanglier 4.

Orleans, on the right hank of the Loire, the ancient capital of
the Orleanais and now the chief town of the Departement du Loiret,
the seat of a bishop, and the headquarters of the Vth Army Corps, is
a large and well-built but dull town, with a population of 66,700.

Orleans occupies the site of the Gallic town of Cenabum or Genabum.
captured and burned by Ca sar in B.C. 52 in revenge for a massacre of
Roman merchants here by the Carnutes. The town was afterwards rebuilt
by the Emperor Aurelian, who named it Aurelianum, whence the modern
name is derived. The position of Orle'ans as the key to Central and S.
France has always given it great strategic importance, and it has fre-
quently been besieged. In 451 St. Aignan, then bishop, delivered it from
the attack of Attila, but Clovis took it in 498. After the death of Clovis

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Ste. Croix. ORLl^ANS. 36'. Route. 271

Orleans became tlie capital of an independent kingdom, wliich was, however,
united to the kingdom of Paris in 613. The most notable event in the
history of the town is its siege by the English in 1428-2S3, which was
raised by Joan of Arc, the famous ''Maid of Orleans'. Entering the town on
April 2yth, 1429, she forced the English to retire by the 8th of May, an
event still annually celebrated on May 7th and 8th. In 1563 the town, as
a stronghold of the Huguenots under Coligny, was attacked by the Duke
of Guise. In 1870 Orleans was again the object of important military
manoeuvres; on Oct. 11th it was taken by the Germans, a month later it
was recaptured by the French, but the Germans again made themselves
masters of it on Dec. 5th and held it until March IBth, 1871.

The Station (PI. D, 1) adjoins the handsome Boulevards, on the
opposite side of which is the new Rue de la Gare, leading straight
to the Place du Martroi (see helow). We, however, first follow the
boulevards to the right to the Place Bannier (PI. C, 1), and thence
descend the Rue Bannier to the Place du Martroi, At the corner of
the last-named street stands the Church of St. Paterne (PI. C, 1), now
being rebuilt. When the restoration is complete, this church will be
a handsome specimen of the Gothic style of the 13th century.

The Place du Martroi (PI. C, 3) occupies the centre of the town.
A mediocre bronze Equestrian Statue of the Maid of Orleans, by
Foyatier, was erected here in 1855, representing Joan returning
thanks to heaven for her victory. The sixteen alto-reliefs are by
Vital Dubray.

The Rue Royale leads from the S. side of the square to the Loire.
We follow, however, the Rue Jeanne d'Arc, which runs to the W. to
Ste. Croix, passing the Lycee, on the left, and on the right a small
square with a bronze Statue of the Republic by L. Roguet (1850).

The ^Cathedral of Ste. Croix (PI. E, 3), though its facade is im-
posing, dates from the decadence of Gothic architecture. Destroyed
by the Huguenots in 1567, it was practically rebuilt between 1601
and 1829, the greater part in a successful enough reproduction of the
late-Gothic manner, while the florid facade, designed by Gabriel,
architect to Louis XV., attains a certain amount of dignity in spite
of its bastard style. The latter is flanked by two towers, 285 ft. high,
without spires, between which are three portals, surmounted by
rose-windows and an open gallery. The towers are carried up three
stories higher, the first stage in each having spiral staircases at the
corners and statues, the next two, light arcades; both towers termin-
ate in. open crown-shaped galleries. Between the towers is seen
the graceful central spire, rebuilt in 1859. The church is 485 ft. in
length.

The Intekiok, which has double aisles and is 100 ft. in height, is su-
perior in style to the facade. The eleven chapels of the choir date from
the original building, as they escaped from the flames in 1567. The works
of art are neither numerous nor ancient. In the arcades beneath the
windows are the Stations of the Cross, sculptured by Clov. Monceau, and
the transepts contain elaborate Gothic altars in carved wood. Some of the
stained-glass windows are good. In the 1st chapel to the right of the choir
is the elaborate marble monument of Mgr. Dupanloup, Archbishop of Paris
(d. 1878), by Chapu.

On the N. side of the cathedial is a bronze statue, by Vital

272 Route 36. ORLEANS. Musee de Peinture.

Dubray, of Robert Pothier [PL E, 3), the famous legal writer (1699-
1772), a native of Orleans. A little farther on, to the left, is the —

Hotel de Ville or Mairie (PL D, 3), a tasteful building of brick
and stone, dating from 1530, but restored and enlarged in 1850-54.
It was formerly the royal residence, and here Francis II. died in 1560
in the arms of his wife, Mary Stuart. The main building is flanked
by two advancing wings, with niches containing statues of celebrated
natives of the town. The Caryatides beneath the balconies are
attributed to Jean Goujon. The bronze Statue of Joan of Arc, in
the court, is a replica of a marble statue by Princess Marie of Orle'-
ans, now at Versailles. Several of the apartments on the first floor
are decorated in the style of the 16th cent, (apply to the concierge).
The chimney-piece of the Salle des Mariages and the ceiling of the
Salle du Conseil should be observed. The equestrian statue of Joan
of Arc trampling on a mortally wounded Englishman, in the Grand
Salon, is also by Princess Marie of Orle'ans.

We now retrace our steps along the Rue Jeanne d'Arc to the
Place de la Re'publique (see p. 271). The Old Hotel de Ville, a mu-
tilated building of the 15th cent., with a Gothic tower, now contains
the Musee de Peinture et de Sculpture (PL D, 3) and the Natural
History Museum. The collections are open to the public on Sun.
and Thurs., 12-4, and to strangers on other days also (closed on the
principal holidays and during Sept. and Oct.). There is another
entrance in the Rue Ste. Catherine.

The following is an alphabetical Hst of the principal works of art.
They are not all numbered, but all have explanatory labels.

Paintings. Antigna (of Orleans), 4. Young Breton ; no numbers. Woman
overcome by a snow-storm, Conllagrrttion. — Berchere, 20. I^ubian children
guarding the crops. — -B/in, Landscapes (30. Cape Frehel). — Bol, 36. Por-
trait. — Cambiaso, 60. Brazen serpent. — Carracci^ Adoration of the Shep-
herds. — Ph. de Champaigne., 65. S. Carlo Borromeo. — M. Corneille, 71. Jac .b
and Esau. — Couder, 937. Return from the lields. — Decker, 79. Landscape.

— ^1. Demont, Landscape. — Devuet (1588-1660), 8i-87, Earih, Air, Fire,
Water. — Deshaijcs, 93. St. Benedict. — Domenichino, St. Cecilia. — Drouais,
105. Mme. de Pompadour, 106. Portrait. — 7>w6w/e, 107. Birth of Henri V.

— Duimis (of Orleans), 112. Zenobia and the shepherds. — P. Flandrin,
125. Landscape. — Freminet (15ti7-lG19), 141-148. The Evangelists and the
Latin Church Fathers. — G&rard., 155. Christ descending on the earth and
dispelling the darkness (the artist's last work , finished by a pupil). —
Giordano, 156. Caritas Romana. — HalU , 166. Flight into Egypt. — IIoI-
feld (after Murillo), 175. Holy Family. — P. Htiet, 181. Arques, 182. Wood
at the Hague. — Lancret, 210. Luncheon-party. — C. Lefebrre, 944. Jacob
and Joseph. — Lerolle, Landscape. — Ch. Van Loo, 2'.29. Louis XV., 230.
The Regent (?). — Lncatclli, 233. Italian cabaret. — Maratta, 241. P.<;yche
entering Olympus, 242. 3Iarriage of Psyche. — i/ef/jucr, Judgment of Paris,
Truth. — Van Mieris the Elder, Portrait of the artist. — Mierevell , Anna
van Hussen. — Monvel (of Orleans), Good Samaritan. — Murillo, '.-^64. An
Apostle. — Negrone, 267. Madonna and Saints. — Norblin, 273. Death of
Ugolino. — Oudrii, 278. Birds. — PigneroUe, 293. Pilgrimage to Our Lady of
Loretto. — Preti\ll Calabrese). 305. SS. Paul and Antony, the hermits. —
Protais, 307. Pond. — PriuVhon, Portraits. — Restout, 329. Annunciation. —
Pichemont, Conde finding the body of Fuentes after the battle of Rocroy,
St. Cecilia in the Catacombs. — Rtesener, Marshal Bessieres and other p. r-
traits. — Rottenliammer , 349. Holy Family. — Rubens 0). 352. Genius of
Glory and of Art, 363. Village festival (copy), 354. Festival of Venus (copy). —

Hist. Museum. ORLEANS. 36. Route. 273

Sacchi, 3P2. Raising of Lazarus. — Scherer, Joan of Arc at Orleans. — i?V.
de Troy, 898. Duchess of Maine, famous for ber brilliant court at Sceaux, in
the reign (f Louis XV. — Vaines, 402. Deatb of Enst. Lesueur. — Jos. Vernet,
411, 952. Landscares. — Vet'er, 413. Scene fi om Moliere's 'Precieuses Ilidi-
cules\ — Weber, 432. Psyche's awakening. — Zeghtrs^ 375. Hi ly Family
in a garland of flowers.

Sculptures. Blaitchard, 50f?. Rope-dancer. — Captier , 573. Trancing
faim. — David d' Angers, 585-587. Terractta reliefs. — Duvet, 591. Mer-
cury inventing the lyre. — Fmghre^ des Forts, Mary Magdalen. — Molkhecht,
601. Venus qviitting "the biith. — Fradier 630. Venus surprized. — Tour-
nois, 6':6. Quoit-player. — Villain, 648. Hebe.

The Drawings number 250; the Engravings about 10,000.

Quitting the building by the door in the Rue Ste. Catherine, we
turn to the right, and a few yards farther on to the left (Rue des
Albanais), and reach the Hotel de FarvUle or Cahut, a tasteful little
edifice of the 16th cent., often erroneously called the 'House of Diana
of Poitiers'. It contains the interesting and well-arranged Historical
Museum (PI. D, 3), open as the others (see p. 272). The objects are
furnished with inscriptions. Catalogue, l'/2 ^r.

Ground-Floor. Antique and other sculptures. — First Floor. Gold
ornaments from Cyprus, Gallo-Roman bronzes (horse and boar found in
the neighbourhood), antioue vases and terracottas; Egyptian antiquities;
(lint axe-heads; small bronzes and terracottas; and miscellaneous objects
of more modern date. — Second Floor. Chests of the 15-16th cent., and
other furniture; font of the 13th cent., bas-reliefs in alabaster, I ne chimney-
piece of the 16th cent.; ethnographical collection; weapons; local curi-
osities. — A room off the court contains porcelain from Rouen, Delft,
and Is'evers; medals; fne chimney-piece of the 16th cent., with painted
bas-reliefs (life of John the Baptist); porcelain, smaller objects of art,
ivory, bonbonnieres, watches, statuettes, etc.; curious amber crucifix.

The Rue des Albanais ends in the Rue Royale, the most inter-
esting in the town. The first turning to the right is the Rue du
Tabour (PL C, 3), No. 15 in which is the so-called House of Agnes
Sorel, an edifice of the Renaissance. No. 37 is the Howe of Joan
of Arc, in which the Maid of Orle'ans lodged. It now contains the
Musee Jeanne d'Arc (PI. C, 31.

The museum consists of an important collection of objects connected
with Joan of Arc, both originals and reproductions, of more historic in-
terest than artistic value. The Salle des Momments (on the groundtToor)
contains mainly models of statues of the heroine; the Salle du Siege (1st
floor) illustrates the arms and armour worn at the siege of Orleans; the
Salle des Bijoux (2nd floor) contains coins, medals struck in honour of
Joan, and stattuettes and ornaments representing her. On the 3rd floor
are miscellaneous objects. Specially noteworthy are a Flemish tapestry
(15th cent.) representing Joan's arrival at Chinon; Beauvais tapestry (17th
cent.) designed after the 'Pucelle' of Ch pelain; banner borne at the festival
of Joan of Arc (16th cent.); portraits, including one of 15^1 and another
by Vouet; two paintings of battles in which she took part, by Bourguignon
and Mignot; engravings, etc.

At the S. end of the Rue Royale a handsome Bridge (PI. C, 5),
of the 18th cent., spans the Loire, the channel of which is sometimes
almost dry. At the S. end of the bridge is the suburb of St. Mar-
ceau, at the beginning of which is a mediocre Statue of the Maid of
Orleans, by Gois, removed hither from the Place du Martroi.

On the right bank, about 300 yds. below the bridge, is the Re-
Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 18

274 Route 36. ORLEANS.

naissance Church of Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance (PI. C, 4), erected
in memory of the deliverance of tlie town by Joan of Arc, with
mural paintings by H. Lazerges. — About 1/2 M. up the river are
the mutilated remains of the 15th cent, church of St. Aignan
(PI. F, 4), consisting of the choir and transepts. — To the N.E., in
the Boulevard St. Marc, is the church of St. Euverte (PI. G, 3), dat-
ing from the 12-15th centuries. Thence to the station about 1 M.

Pleasant walks may betaken on the banks of the Loire to the Chateau
of St. Loup, 13/4 M. above the town, and to the Chapelle St. Mesmin, 2V2 M.
below. An omnibus plies to the latter from Rue de la Hallebaide 31 (PI. C, 3).

A charming excursion may be made to the Source of the Loiret, either
by private carriage, or by tramway (p. 270) to Olivet (Restaurant de VEldo-
rado), a village about 2 M. from the Chateau de la Source. There are in
reality two sources, the Abime and the Bouillon., both remarkable for the
abundance and limpidity of their water, and said to have subterranean com-
munication with the Loire. The chateau stands in a pleasant garden (fee).

From Orle'ans to Tours., see p. 265; to Bourges and Nevers., see pp. 40()-
404; to Malesherhes and Bouron (Moret), see p. 399; to Chartres, seep. 198.

From OelSans to Montargis, 47 M., railwav in 2-274 hrs. (fares 8 fr.
50, 5 fr. 75, 3 fr. 75 c). — IV4 M. Les Auhrais' i\>. 264). The train llrst
skirts and then intersects the Forest of Orleans. I2V2 M. Donnenj; 14 31.
Fay-aux-Loges., situated on the Canal dWrlians, between the Loire and the
Loing ; 3IV2 M. Bellegarde-Q>/iers, also a station on the line from Beauue-
la-Rolande to Bourges (p. 399). — 36V2 M. Ladon was the scene of a battle
on Nov. 24th, 1870 (monument). — 47 M. Montargis, see p. 395.

From Orleans to Gien, 39 M., railway in about 2V4 hrs. (fares 7 fr.
15, 4 fr. 85, 3 fr. 15 c). This line ascends the valley of the Loire, at a little
distance from the river. — 3V2 M. St. Jean- de- Br aye. Beyond (7 M.) Chicy-
Mardii we cross the Canal d'Orleans (see above). — IIV2 M. St-Dtnis-Jar-
geau. The latter, on the right bank of the river, is noted for a victory
gained by Joan of Arc over the English in its neighbourhood in May, 1429.
— 16 M. Chateauneuf-sur-Loire (B6t. des Trois-Rois) is a small town with
the remains of a huge Chdteau rebuilt in the 18th century. The church
contains the tomb of the Due de la Vrilliere (1672-1718), minister of
Louis XIV., with a tine group in marble. About 3 M. to the S.E. lies
Germigny-des-Pris, a village noted for its church, originally dating from
the Carolingian period and restored in the primitive style.

21 M. St-Benoit-St-Aignan. — St. Benoit-sur-Loire (Inns), about 3 M.
to the S., owes its origin and its name to a rich Benedictine monastery,
founded in 620 and pillaged and destroyed by the Huguenots under Condo
in 1562. At one time 5000 pupils are said to have been taught by the monks.
Nothing now remains except the "Chuvch, built between 1026 and 1218,
one of the oldest and most remarkable ecclesiastical monuments in France.
It has two sets of transepts, between which rises a square tower. The W.
porch or narthex is two stories high, and is divided into a nave and aisles
of three bays each, with columns crowned by curiously carved capitals.
The portal on the N. is Hanked by six large statues (mutilated), and above
the door is a representation of the translation of the relics of St. Benoit
or Benedict from Monte Cassino to the monastery. The transepts have no
doors, but have small apses on the E. side. In the interior, beneath the
central tower, is the tomb of Philip I. of France (d. 1108), with a con-
temporary recumbent statue. The capitals of the columns and the choir
stalls, dating from the 15th cent., should be observed. — <S«//j/ (see below)
may be conveniently visited from St. Benoit (0 M.), viii the right bank of
the Loire. Germigny-des-Pres lies about 3 M. to the N.W. (see above).

At (25V2 M.) Les Bordes we intersect the line from Beaune-la-Rolande
to Bourges. The lirst station on this line to the S. of Les Bordes is Sully
(see p. 399). — 31 M. Ouzouer-Dampierre. — 39 M. Gien, see p. 39(».

From Orlkans to Oizouer-le-March£ (Blois), 19V2 M., steam-tramway
via Coulmiers. At Ouzouer we meet the tramway from Blois (p. 279).

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275

37. Blois.

Hotels. Grand Hotel de Blois (PI. a; C, 5), Rue Porte-Cote, pens,
from 10 fr., well spoken of; *Gk. Hot. de Fkance (PI. b; C, 5), Place
Victor-Hugo, R., L., & A. 341/2, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; du
Chateau (PI. c; C, 5), Rue Porte-Cote 20, R., L., & A. 3-8, B. 1, dej. 21/2,
1). 3, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Angletekee (PI. d; D, 5), on the quay, at the bridge;
TjftTE Noire, on the quay, R., L., & A. 31/2, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; de la
Nouvelle Ctare, with restaurant a la carte, R. 2 fr.

Cafes. Grand Caf^, Rue Denis -Papin; de Blois, beside the Hotel
de Blois; others on the quays. — Railway Restaurant.

Post and Telegraph Office, Place de la Republique (PI. C, 4) and Rue
Denis-Papin 45.

Stations. Besides the Railway Station proper (PI. A, 5-6) Blois has
two Steam- Tramway Stations: one in the Faubourg de Vienne (PI. E, (1)
for Bracieux (Chambord), Lamotte, and Beuvron; the other, in the Fau-
bourg Neuf (PI. B, 2), for Ouzouer-le-]Marche (30 M.).

Blois.^ the chief town of the Departement de Loir-et-Cher^ with
23,452 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the
Loire, with its principal street in the hollow between two hills, on
which rise respectively the chateau and the cathedral. The older
parts of the town are ill-built, with numerous narrow streets, which
occasionally degenerate into flights of steps. A bridge at the end
of the main street leads over the river to the suburb of Vienne on
the left bank.

Blois first rose into notice about the end of the 14th cent., when Louis
of Orleans, son of Charles V. of France, purchased the castle from the
counts of Blois. Under its new masters Blois enjoyed a period of im-
portance, especially when Louis's grandson, who frequently resided here,
ascended the throne of France as Louis XII. Francis 1. spent large sums
of money in enlarging and embellishing the castle, in which he entertained
Charles V. Henri III spent much of his time at Blois, and twice (in 1576
and 1588) assembled the States-General here (see p. 276); here, too, the
Duke of Guise was assassinated by the king's orders (see p. 276). The castle
then fell into disfavour. Henri IV visited it once. Louis XIII. imprisoned
his mother, Marie de Medicis, in this castle, and afterwards presented it to
his brother, Gaston of Orleans.

From the Railway Stafion (PI. A. 5, 6) we proceed in a few min.
to tlie Place Victor-Hugo (PI. B, C, 5), occupying the site of the old
'jardin bas' at the foot of the chateau. To the left, before the Place,
is the. Gothic Pavilion cCAnne de Bretagne, or Bain^ de la Reine^ a
dependency of the chateau, now occupied by a club. In the Place
is the Jesuit Church of St, Vincent^ of the 17th cent. (PI. 6; B, 5].

The *Chateau (PI. C, 5), the left side of which is skirted by
the direct ascent from the Place, is one of the most interesting in
France. The part in front as we arrive is the *Francis 1. Wing., the
finest part of the whole and a chef-d'oeuvre of the Renaissance. The
inner facade is noticed below. The exterior fagade, with four stories,
is richly decorated and adorned with tasteful turrets and an open
gallery at the top. The unattractive-looking pavilion on the right
dates from the time of Gaston of Orleans , who began a complete
reconstruction of the whole. Between these two sections rises the
Tour des Oubliettes, dating from the 13th century. The castle is

18*

276 Route 37. BLOIS. Chateau.

entered from the Place du Chateau (PI. C, 5) by the Galerie Louis X 11^
constructed of stone and brick, and finished in 1501. Above the door
is an equestrian statue of Louis XII.

The chateau heli ngs to the state and is open daily from 7 or 8 a.m.
The interior, however, is shown only under t tie escort of a custodian (fee
discretionary ^ not more than 1 fr. for one pers., less per head for a party).

On the right side of the principal court rises the *Francis I.
Wing, the inner fagade of which is even more richly decorated than
the outer. Like most of the chateau it has recently undergone
complete restoration. The ^Staircase is the chief feature ; it ascends
within a projecting pentagonal tower, open at ea^h stage, and both
outside and inside is most beautifully carved. The salamander which
is frequently repeated in the ornamentation is the badge of Francis L,
while the hedgehog on other parts of the building is the badge of
Louis XIL On the left side of the court is the Chapel, dating from
the time of Louis XIL, but recently restored and repaired. It is
embellished with paintings and coloured windows, one of which re-
presents the betrothal of Louis XII. to Anne of Brittany (p. 209).
— At the end of the court is the Gaston Wing, built by Mansart,
the most remarkable feature of which is the staircase.

The Interior of the palace also has been restored, though not fur-
nished, and is interesting mainly from a historic point of view. Ground
Flook. To the left are the Apartments of Anne of Brittany, wife of
Louis XII., with sculptures from different parf.s of the chateau. Thence
we visit the richly decorated Chapelle St. Calais and the handsome stair-
case of ihe Oaston Wing. Proceeding next to the ^Francis J. Wing, we
ascend its "Grand Staircase, on which are three statues (Peace, Youth,
Friendship) attributed to Jean Goujon. — Pirst Floor. Apartments of
Catherine de Midicis, including two Ante-moms, the first of which has
two siilded chimney-pieces; the Queen's Gallery; the Dressing Rnom; the
Bedchamber in which Catherine died in 1589, with artistically carved
beams; her Oratory, partly in a turret supported by a corbel; s-nd her
Study, with nearly 250 carved wooden panels, all diflerent. Marie de
Medici-!, who was confined in this castle by order of her son Louis XIIL,
is said to have escaped by one of the windows of the last-named n ora. We
next inspect the Tour des Oubliettes or donjon, and the Dungeon in which
the Cardinal de Guise, brother of the duke, was assassinated. — Second
Floor. The Apartments of Henri III include two Ante-rooms with fine
chimney-pieces ; the King's Gallery ; the Study ; and the Kings Bedchamber,
in which the Duke of Guise , surnamed le Batafr^' or 'the Scarred",
assassinated in 1588 by order of Henri III, breathed his last. Adjoining
are the Retiring Koom, where the fir-t blows were struck, the King's
Dressing Room, and the apartment in which two monks, during the assas-
sination, remained in prayer 'for the success of a great scheme". — The
Third Floor is not shown to visitors. — We descend by a staircase at
the end of the Galerie Louis XII, from which we visit the Salle des Etats.
This hall, which is divided into two by eight columns, dates like the
donjon from the 13th century.

From the other end of the Galerie Louis XII another staircase leads
to an unimportant Musee (open on Sun., 12-4; at other times for a fee). In
the second room on the first floor are two valuable pictures: a Group of
Sheep by Rosa Bonheur, and La Colombine by Leonardo da Vinci. Most
of the rooms have tine chimney-pieces of the time of Louis XII. On the
second floor are paintings, sculptures, engravings, and a collection of natural
history. Fine view from the tirst room.

A lane with steps, to our right as we quit the castle, descends

Chambord. BLOIS. 37. Route. 277

to the old abbey-churcL of St. Nicolas (PL 0, 6), tlie finest in Blois,
built in 1138-1210. The remarkable fa(;ade, with its two towers, has
recently been complete'l and restored. The central tower, though far
from pleasing when seen from without, forms a handsome lantern in
the interior. The altar-piece of the loth cent., to the N. of the choir,
near the transept, represents the life of St. Mary of Egypt.

We now ascend the right bank of the Loire to the bridge (p. 275).
From the bridge we see the statue of Denis Papin (see below), at the
top of the handsome street beginning here. The Rue du Roi ascends
to the right to the Cathedral of St. Louis (PL D, 4), an edifice in a
bastard Gothic style, reconstructed by J. U. Mansart in 1676. The
fagade is later, and may be described as belonging to the neo-classic
school. The seventh chapel to the right contains two marble reliefs,
by Lerambert (1660), representing Memory and Meditation, for-
merly on the tomb of the mother of King Stanislaus of Poland, in the
church of St. Vincent (p. 275). — The Bishop's Palace, behind the
cathedral, dates from nearly the same epoch; the terrace (open to
the public) commands a fine view.

The Rue du Palais, to our right as we return, passes in front of
the Palais de Justice (PL 0, 4). The street leading thence to the
left ends at the bronze statue (PI. C,4, 5) erected in 1879 to Denis
Pa/^m (1647-1710), the natural philosopher, who was born at Blois.
The statue, by A. Millet, is placed on a platform approached by
122 steps and commanding a fine view. — In the Rue St. Honore',
leading hence in a straight direction, is the Hotel d'Alluye (No. 8;
PL 4, C 5), of the 16th cent, (restored in 1893), the finest of the
old houses of Blois (visitors admitted). We regain the square near
the chateau by turning first to the right, then to the left.

Excursions. — To Chambord. This highly interesting excursion is
most conveniently made by carriage (return-fare for 1-3 pers., with one
horse lu-12, with two horses 15-18 fr.). The drivers usvially go by the road
on the dyke or embankment on the left bank of the Loire (11 M.) and return
by the valley of the Cesson (10 M.). Or the steam-tramway m+y be tiiken
to (IOV2 M.) Bracieux (p. 279) ami a carriage hired there for Chambord
(41/2 M.; 1-4 pers. 5 fr.)- There is a public conveyance from Bracieux, but
at inconvenient hours, — With a carriage and pair the three chateaux of
Chambord, Cheverny, and Beauregard may all be visited in one day (25 fr.).
There is a good hotel near the chateau of Chambord.

The -Chateau of Chambord, situated in a jtark, 20 sq. M. in area, sur-
rounded by 20 M. of walls, is one of the finest palaces of the Renaissance
in existence, and as an edifice it is perhaps unique. It was built by
Pierre Nepveu in 1526 for Francis I., whose favourite residence it became,
and Cousin, Bontemps, Goujon, Pilon, and other noted artists were en-
gaged on its decoration. Many changes were afterwards carried out,
especially by Louis XIV. and by Marshal Saxe. to whom that monarch
presented it in 1748. From 1725 to 1733 Stanislaus Lesczinski, the ex-king
of Poland, dwelt at Chambord. Napoleon I. presented it to Marshal
Berthier, from whose widow it was purchased in 1821 fov the sum of 61,000/.
raised by a national subscription , on behalf of the future Comte de
Chambord (18'20-83). It now belongs to the Duke of Parma and the
Cumte de Bardi. The chateau, only the N. part of which is completed,
consists of two square blocks, the larger of which, 512 ft. long by 385 ft.
broad, encloses the smaller in such a way, that the N. facade of the one

278 Route 37. BLOIS. Environs.

forms the centre of the N. facade of the other. The corners of each block
terminate in massive round towers, with conical roofs crowned by lanterns,
so that four of these towers appear in the principal facade. The central
part is farther adorned with an unexampled profusion of dormer-windows,
turrets, carved chimneys, and pinnacles, besides innumerable mouldings
and sculptures, above all of which rises the double lantern of the tower
containing the principal staircase. The interior is almost empty and undec-
orated; most of the carved wainscots and panels, the ornamented doors and
shutters, and other embellishments were destroyed in 1793 by the Revo-
lutionaries. The chief point of interest is the double spiral *Staircase,
so arranged that one person can ascend and another descend at the same
time without even seeing each other. The elaborate ornamentation of the
roofs is also striking; and the massive timber constructions used to form
and support them should be observed from inside. The chateau contains
440 apartments, and the stables are said to have room for 1200 horses.

To Beauregard and Chevernt, 9V2-10 M., carriages as for Cham-
bord (see p. 277) or from Bracieux (ca. 5 fr.). We traverse the suburb of
Vienne and follow the Romorimtin road. Walkers may lighten their jour-
ney by taking the train from Blois to Cour-Cheverny (see below). — The
Chateau of Beauregard, about 41/2 M. from Blois, is said to have been built
by Francis I. as a hunting-lodge, but part of it has been rebuilt and mod-
ernized. It contains a gallery of 363 historical portraits of the 17th cent,
(by Ardier), several handsome ceilings, and a tiled floor representing an
army in order of battle. — The Chateau of Cheverni/, about 5', 2 M. farther
on, is a magnificent structure of the 17th cent., partly in the style of the
Renaissance, and recently restored. 3Iany of the rooms retain the original
furniture and decorations. The mythological paintings (Histories of Adonis,
Perseus, and Theagnes and Charicles) are by .lean Mosnier, a local artist.

About 6 M. to the W. of Blois is the ruined Chateau of Burt/, an inter-
esting edifice of the 16th century. — Chateau de Chaumonl, see p. 265.

From Blois to Pont-de-Brate, via Vendome, 4IV2 M., railway in
21/4-6V2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 25, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 85 c). — Beyond (41/2 M.) Foss^-
Marolles the Cisse is crossed. At (8 M.) La Chapelle- Vendomoise is one of
the finest dolmens in France. There are several others in this neigh-
bourhood. — 17 BI. Villetrun-Coulommiers. The train now crosses the Loir
and joins the line from Chateaudun. 2IV2 31. Vendovie, see p. 268.

The railway recrosses the Loir and descends the irregular, winding
valley of that stream. — 271/2 BI. Thori-la-Bochette. At La Rochette, at
which the station is situated, are a number of inhabited Caverns. Similar
caverns are found elsewhere in this valley, and also on the banks of the
Loire (p. 235), the Vienne (p. 284) , etc. Some of those of Breuil, on the oppo-
site bank, are very ancient. About IV4 BI. to the N. of Breuil is the
Chateau de la Bonaventure, and as far to the S.E. is the Chateau de Rocliam-
beau. — We next traverse a tunnel 550 yds. long and reach (30 BI.) St.
Rimay. Les Roches, IV4 BI. to the W., has the most interesting caverns in
this region; nearly all the 550 inhab. of the village are 'Troglodytes'. The
Loir is again crossed.

331/2 BI. Montoire-sur-le-Loir (Trois Rois) is a small town commanded
by a ruined castle, the donjon of which dates from the 12th century.
On the left bank of the Loir, I3/4 BI. to the S.IC, are the picturesque ruins
of the huge Chateau de Lavardin, built in the 12-15th centuries.

Near (371/2 BI.) Troo, which has a Romanesque church of the 12th cent.,
are ancient ruins, a tumulus, and some interesting caverns. 40 BI. Sougi-
sur-Braye. — 411/2 BI. Pont-de-Braye, see p. 198.

From Blois to Villefranche-sur-Cher (Vierzon), via Romorantin,
36 BI., railway in 13/4-21/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 30, 2 tr. 80 c). This
line crosses the Loire beyond (21/2 BI.) La Chauasie- St-Victor. — 51/2 ^L
Vineitil- St -Claude; 'd'^ji BI. ilont-pris-Chamhord (steam -triuiway, see p.
279!; 13 BI. Cour-Cheverny, 3/^ ji. to the X. of Cheverny and its chateau
(see above). The marshy tract which now follows forms part of the Sologne
(p. 400). Beyond (I81/2 BI.) Fontaine- Soings the train passes near the Cha-
teau de la Morini^re (15th cent.). 21 BI. Murde- Sologne. — 31 BI. Romo-

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TOURS. 38. Route. 279

rantin (Lion d''Or), a busy clotli- manufacturing town with 8000 inhab.,
i8 situated on tbe Sauldre. The Edict of Romorantin, in 1560, prevented
the establishment of the Inquisition in France. — 36 M. Yillefranche-sur-
Gher is a station on the line from Tours to Vierzon (p. 288).

From Blois to Lamottk-Beuveon via Bracieux (ChamOord)., 881/2 M.,
steam-tramway (p. 277) in 3-3'/2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 10 c). Unim-
portant stations. — 7 M. Mont (p. 278). — IOV2 M. Bracieux, on the Beuvron
(comp. p. 277). At (271/2 M.) La FerU-Beuuhavnais is a chateau that be-
longed to Eugene Beauharnais. — 381/2 M. Lamotte- Beuvron (p. 400).

From Blois to OuzouER-LE-MARCHfi (OrUans), 3OV2M., steam-tramway.
At Ouzouer we meet the steam -tramway from Orleans (p. 274).

38. Tours.

Railway Station. Tours now possesses only one Station (PI. D, 3, 4),
recently reconstructed, and \ised by both the Compagnie d'Orleans and
the government lines.

Hotels. Grand Hotel de l'Univers (PI. a; D, 3), Boulevard Heurteloup,
near the station, R., L., & A. from 41/2, U. 5 fr.; Gr. Hot. de Bordeaux
(PI. b^D, 3), almost opposite the station, to the right, R. 3-10, L. 1/4, A.
1/2, B. 11/4, dej. 3, D. 4 fr.; Faisan (PI. c; C, 2), Rue Nationale 17, R.,
L., & A. 4-6, B. IV2, dej. 3i/v!, D. 4, omn. 1/2 fr.; Boule d'Oe (PI. d; C, 2, 3),
DEs NfiGociANTS (PI. c ', C, 2), botli in the Rue Nationale (Nos. 29 & 19);
du Commerck (PI. f; C, 4), Place du Palais-ile-Justice, R., L., & A. 2-0,
B. 11/2, dej. 3, D. 3 fr.; du Croissant, Rue Gambetta 7, opposite the post
office (PI. C, 3), pens, from 8 fr.

Cafes. Besnard, du Commerce.^ de la Ville, Rue Nationale 10, 32, & 46;
de rUnivers, Place du Palais-de-Justice 8. — Cafi-Concert de V Alcazar^ Rue
Nationale. — Cirque liancy, on the quay, near the Musee.

Cabs. With one horse, per drive 1, per hr. I1/2 fr.; with two horses,
11/2 and 2 fr.

Tramways (comp. the Plan). From the Barriere de Vouvray (PI. E, 1)
to the Barriere de Grammont, via the Rue Nationale and the Avenue de
Grammont (3 'sections', 15 c. each; all the way 25 c.), with a branch to
the Pont Bonaparte or St. Cyr (PI. B, 2). — Steam Tramway from the
Place de THotel-de-Ville to Vouvray via IMarmoutier (p. 283) and Roche-
corbon (3 sections, 30-45 c. each, 40-60 c. for 2 sections, 75 c. all the way).

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. C, 3), Rue de Clocheville 16.

English Church, Rue de la Prefecture; services at 11.15 and 4. Chap-
lain, Rev. Wm. Appleford, B, A.

Baths. Bains de la Touraine, Boulevard Beranger 18.

Tours, a prosperous town with 63,267 inhab., tlie former capital of
the Touraine, the chief town of the Departement d' Jndre-et-Loire, the
headquarters of the IXth Army Corps, and the seat of an archbishop,
is situated in a fertile plain on the left bank of the Loire and extends
with its suburbs as far as the right bank of the Cher, nearly 2 M.
from the Loire. The agreeable situation and mild climate of Tours
have induced large numbers of English and other foreigners to take
up their abode here.

Tours, a town of the Gallic tribe of the Turones or Turoni, joined the
league under Vercingetorix against Ceesar in B. C. 52. It was afterwards
transferred from the N. to the S. bank of the Loire, and known under
the Roman emperors as Caesarodunum and (later) Urbs Turonum. It be-
came the capital of the Third Lugdunensis in 374 A. D. From the invasion
of the Franks until the 11th cent, the town was the capital of a line of
counts, whose descendant, Henry II., united Touraine with the English
crown. This province was restored to France in 1242; and from that time
onwards Tours was a favourite residence of the French kings, who fostered
its manufactures and largely increased its prosperity. Louis XI. especially

280 Route 38. TOURS. Cathedral.

spent much time at Plessis-les-Tours (p. 283). Under Henri III and later
monarchs Tours was the meeting-place of important councils. Touraine
was bestowed, as an apanage, upon Mary, Queen of Scots, who continued to
draw a revenue from it until her death. On Sept. 13th, 1870, Gambetta,
who had escaped by ballo' n from beleaguered Paris, established at Tours
the Delegation of the Government of ^National Defence, which remained
here until compelled by the advance of the Germans to remove to Bordeaux
on Dec. 21st, 1870. The town was occupied by the Germans from Jan. 19th
till March 8th, 1871. — The Battle of Tours is the name often given to the
great battle in which Charles Martel checked and hurled back the advanc-
ing power of the Saracens in 732. It was fought between Tours and
Poitiers. — Tours is famous as the city of St. Martin , who became its
bishup in 375; of Gregory of Tours, who wrote the first history of the
Franks; and of AJcuin's renowned theological school. Honore de Balzac
(1799-1850), the novelist, was born at Tours.

The Railway Station (PI. D, 3, 4) adjoins the fine boulevards
which separate the town proper from its suburbs. Turning to the
left, we reach in a few minutes the handsome square in front of the
Palais de Justice (PI. C, 3), a large Doric building erected in 1840.
A bronze statue, by Fournier, was erected herein 18Sy to Honore
de Balzac (see above). The Rue Nationale (PI. C, 3, 2), which runs
hence to the right to the Loire, is the widest and handsomest street
in the town. At its beginning is the Public Library (l,0,000 vols.,
1200 MSS.). In the third cross-street to the left, the Rue de I'Ora-
toire, stands the large Jmprimerie Maine (PI. C, 3j. The third street
on the right; the Rue de I'Archeveche', leads to a square in which
stands the Archbishop s Palace (PI. D, 2), approached by an Ionic
poital erected In the 17th cent, as a triumphal aich. The palace
contains collections of inscriptions, palaeontology, archaeology, coins,
MSS., and art objects. The square is embellished with a mon-
ument to local worthies, the main feature of which is a figure of
La Touraine by Sicard (1887).

The *Cathedral (PI. D, 2), in the adjoining 'Place', dedicated to
St. Gatien, who introduced Christianity into Touraine, rises on the
site of two earlier churches in which St. Martin (d. 397) and Gre-
gory of Tours (d. 595) once officiated. Though it was begun in 1170
and not finished till the middle of the 16th cent., the various parts
of the cathedral are exceedingly harmonious, and the whole forms
in fact one of the finest Gothic edifices in France. The Fa(,ade, the
last part completed, is a lavishly ornamented example of the Flam-
boyant style; Henri IV is reported to have said of it that it was a
jewel to which only the casket was wanting. It is flanked by two
towers, 226 and 229 ft. in height, the upper stages of which consist
of truncated pyramids, surmounted by double domes in the Renais-
sance style. The tympana and pediments of the triple portal are in
open work; and above is a beautiful rose-window.

Intkrior. The work of the dill'erent epochs of the construction is
easily distinguished. Several bays of the nave are Flamboyant, like the
facade; the E. bays and the transepts date from the 14th and loth cent.;
while the choir, both larger and more interesting, was the work of the
12th century. The windows are still filled with the original magnificent
"Stained Glass. The tirst chapel to the right of the choir contains the Tomb

Ueatre. TOURS. 38. Route. 281

of the Children of GharlesVIII., in white marble, by Jean Juste (1506). —
A small door in tbe N. transept gives admission to the "Psallette, or sing-
ing-school, dating from the 15-16th cent., and embellished with attractive
sculptures and a curious staircase. The N. tower also contains a note-
worthy staircase.

On the quay, not far from the cathedral, is a barrack including the
Tour de Guise, a round tower of the 12-15th cent., dating from a royal palace.

The Rue de la Scellerie leads back from the N.W. corner of the
Square de I'Archeveche to the Rue Nationale, passing in front of
the Theatre Municipal [PI. C, D, 2), an imposing building finished
in 1872 and rebuilt after a tire in 1883.

We cross the Rue Nationale and proceed in a straight direction
through the Rue des Halles, at the end of which stand the Tour
Charlemagne (PI. C, 3; right) and the Tour St. Martin (PI. B,
C, 3; left). These are relics of the famous basilica of St. Martin,
extolled by Gregory of Tours, and afterwards rebuilt on a still more
magnificent scale in the 12-13th centuries. Pillaged by the Hugue-
nots during the religious wars of the 16th cent., it was finally de-
molished in 1802, when the street was prolonged. The Tour Charle-
magne, so called because Luitgard, third wife of Charlemagne, was
buried beneath it, adjoined the N. transept of the church; the Tour
St. Martin , the crowning stage of which was rebuilt in the 18th
cent., stood to the right of the W. portal.

At the corner of the Rue Descartes beginning at the Tour Charl^
magne is the handsome new Basilica of St. Martin [unfinished). —
The Rue des Fosses-St-Martin leads from the square beyond the
Tour St. Martin to the Place de la Victoire, with the Monument of
General Meusnier (1754-93), a native of Tours, erected in 1868. —
To the left is Notre-Bame-la-Riche (PI. B, 2, 3), built originally in
the 13th cent. , but largely reconstructed in the 16th cent, and re-
stored in the 19th. The S. portal and two stained windows by Pi-
naigrier should be observed.

We now descend to the Loire and follow the quay to the right,
passing a suspension-bridge (PI. B, 2) and enjoying a fine view of
the hills on the opposite bank. Farther on is the Pont de Tours
(PI. C, 2, 1), built in 1765-77. Still higher is another suspension
bridge, connecting Tours with the suburb of Symphorlen, on the right
bank. Near the Pont de Tours is the Church of St. Saturnin (PI.
C, 2), dating from the 15th century.

The gardens in the Place de V Hotel- de-Ville (PI. C, 2), at the
N. end of the Rue Nationale and the S. end of the Pont de Tours,
are embellished with modern statues of Rabelais (to the left) , by
Dumaige, and Descartes (to the right) , by the Comte de Nieu-
werkerke. The Hotel de Ville, on the W. side of the square, is an
insignificant building of the 18th century.

The Musee (PI. C, 2), facing it on the other side of the Rue
Nationale, contains about 475 paintings, mostly of trifling value,
some ancient and modern sculptures, enamels, and other works of
art (first floor), a few antiquities, and a collection of natural history

282 Route 38. TOURS. Musee.

(second floor). The museum is open to the public on Thurs., Sun.,
and holidays, 12-4, and to strangers on other days also.

Picture Gallery. — Room I. To the right, 226. Early copy of Fr. Hals,
Descartes; 6. BertliHemy, Manlius Torquatus condemning his son to death;
419. Early copy of Leonardo da Vinci, Mona Lisa ('La Joconde') ; 200. Provi-
doni. Martyrdom of St. Jude; 43. Mich. Cor/ieille, Massacre of the Inno-
cents; 199. Providoni, Martyrdom of St. Matthew; 332. Flemish School,
Marriage of St. Catharine; 78. J. Jouvenei, Centurion at the feet of Christ;
Flemish School, 307. Crucifixion, 283. Holy Family; 99. Lipicii, Matathias
punishing blasphemers; above the door to the next room, 211. French copy
of Titian, Entombment (original in the Louvre). In the centre: 518. L.
Schroeder, The fall of the leaf (marble). — Room II, to the left of Room I.
To the right, no number, Feyen-Perrin, Woman of Cancale ; 26. Busson,
Landscape; 214. Style of Pnolo Veronese, Judith and Holofernes; 326.
Italian School, St. Jerome; 202. Mignard, after Raphael, Holy Family; 149.
//. Rigaud, Louis XIV.; no number, Moreau (of Tours), an Egyptologist;
67. Olaize, Ash Wednesday; 441. Dutch School, Family portrait; 3o0. French
School, Venetian fete; no number, Lansijer, Chateau and park of Menars
(p. 265). — Room III. No. 54. Delaunay, Oath of Brutus; no number, Mon-
ginot. Poacher ; 95. Lecomte de Nouy, Eros ; no number, Frangais, Evening;
65. Fug. Giraud, Algerian women'; no number, Damoy, Lake in theSologne;
61. Thirion, Judith. In the centre: 520. A. Laouste, Amphion (marble).—
Room IV. No. 113. B. Masson, Flowers; 287. Flemish School, St. Joseph and
the Madonna; 127. Muraton (of Tours), Monk digging; Flemish School, 295.
Last Supper, 338. Last Judgment, an imitation of the painting by Fr.
Floris at Brussels; 126. Muraton, Benevolent welcome; 7. Em. Bin, Per-
seus delivering Andromeda. Table in mosaic of the i7th cent. ; Palissy ware.
-jT Room V, on the other side of the entrance-hall. No. 48. Ant. Coypel,
Wrath of Achilles; 601. School of Guido, Pieta; 48bis. Coypel, Parting of
Hector and Andromache; 1. Allegrain, Apollo and Deiphobe, the sibyl;
278. Flemish School, Adoration of the Shepherds; 215. Reduced copy
(IGth cent.) of Daniele da Volterra, Descent from the Cross (original in
S. Trinita de' Monti at Rome); several portraits by unknown masters;
249. School of Parmigianino , Judgment of Paris; 186. Ascribed to Eus.
da San Giorgio, Virgin adoring the Child. — Room VI. No. 92. Lebrun,
Duke of Richelieu; 11. Boucher, Apollo and Latona; 102. Lesueur, St. Se-
bastian; 231. School of Rembrandt, Portrait; 144. iod. Carracd, St. Francis
of Assisi; 194. Mantegna, Resurrection; 81. Largillih-e, Portrait; 188. Guer-
cino. Death of Cleopatra; Boucher, 13. Amyntas recalled to life in the arms
of Silvia (from Tasso); 12. Silvia iJeeing from the wolf which she has
wounded (from Tasso); 222. Rubens, Mars crowned by Victory; 193. Man-
tegna, Christ in Gethsemaue; 210. Eiisaheth Sirani, Marriage of St. Catha-
rine; 187. Guercino (?), Cephale and Procris; 223. Rubens, Alex. Goubeau
and his wife (an c.k voto painting); 162. Valentin, Soldiers dicing; 599.
School of Caravaggio, St. Sebastian. In the centre: bi^. J. Renaudot, Naiad
(marl)le); bronze replica of ^OMdo/t's Diana. — Room VII. No. 107. Zo6m (direc-
tor of the stained-glass manufactory at Tours), after Ribera, Martyrdom of
St. Bartholomew; 147. Restout, Death of St. Scholastica; 38. Phil, de C/<am-
paigne, The Good Shepherd; 146. Restout, Trance of St. Benedict. At the
other end, 218. Franck, Rape of Helen. This room also contains some
fine specimens of furniture of the 15-17th cent., and several glass-cases
with enamels, mostly by /. Laudin (486), a small ivory diptych of the 15th
cent. (540), stoneware, faience, etc. Above the second gJass-case are some
good paintings of the Flemish School, including No. 293. Raising of Lazarus.

On leaving the Muse'e, we follow the Rue Nationale to the old
abbey-cliurch oi St. Julien (PI. C, 2), which dates from the 13th cent. ;
the Romanesque W. tower belonged to an earlier church (end of the
10th cent.). The choir has double aisles, the two outer terminating
in shallow apses of the 16th cent., projecting into the adjoining
aisles and into the central part of the choir, which ends in a straight

Excursions. TOURS. 38. Route. 283

wall, pierced with windows. The stained-glass windows and mural
paintings are modern.

In the Rue St. Fran§ois-de-Paule is the Palais du Commerce
(Trib. du C. ; PI. C, 2), the former 'Hotel du Consulat' (17th cent.),
attributed to J. H. Mansart. Opposite is the former church of St.
Francis (1675-77). — In the Rue BriQonnet (No. 18) is the House
of Tristan VHerm>te, the notorious provost-marshal of Charles VII.
and Louis XI. It is also known as the Maison dss Pendus ('of the
hanged'), from the numerous executions which took place here, of
which the stout nails on the facade are memorials.

The remains of the chateau of Plessis-Us-Tours, built and occupied by
Louis XI., who died here in 1483, lie about 3/4 m. to the S.W. of the town
(see p. 279). The ruins are, however, very scanty, and tourists will iind
little to remind them of the graphic description of Sir Walter Scott in
'■Queniin Durward\ — The ruins of the famous Abbey of Marmoutier are on
the right bank, about IV2 M. to the N.W. of the stone bridge.

Excursions from Tours,

a. To Chenoneeaux. — Railway (Ligne de Vierzon, see p. 287), 20 M., in
50-60 min. (fares 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 60 c). Omnibus from Chenoneeaux
station to the chateau 40 c. (50 c. return if a railway return-ticket be taken).
The famous Chdteau of Chenoneeaux is open only on Tliurs. & Sun., 2-4. —
From Chenoneeaux to Amboise (carr. 12 fr.), see p. 266.

The line diverges from the Orleans railway and ascends the valley
of the Cher. 31/2 M. St. Pierre-des-Corps (p. 266); 7 M. Veretz^
II/4M. from which lies Lar^ay, with a Roman Castellum. four towers
on the S. side of which are still standing; 11 M. St. Martin-le-Beau.
— 1572 M. Blere-Lacroix. Blere is a town with 3270 inhab., about
Y2 M. to the S. , with a pretty chapel of the 16th century.

20 M. Chenoneeaux [Hotel du Bon- Lab our eur, de'j. 21/2-3 fr.),
about 1 M. from the station, is noted for its famous *CJidteau^ which
dates from the period of transition from the Gothic style to that of
the Italian Renaissance. It occupies a curious situation, in great part
supported by piles in the channel of the Cher. The chateau was
founded in 1515 by Thomas Bohier, receiver-general of taxes, but
his son relinquished it to the crown in 1035. Francis I. frequently
resided here, and Henri II presented it to Diana of Poitiers. Cathe-
rine de Me'dicis, however, compelled the favourite to resign Che-
noneeaux in exchange for Chaumont (p. 265), and spent consider-
able sums in enlarging and embellishing her new possession, which
shebequeathedtoLouisedeLorraine-Yaudemont, widow ot'Henri III.
The poet Tasso visited Catherine here, and in 1599 Francis II. and
Mary, Queen of Scots, spent their honeymoon at Chenoneeaux. The
chateau has long been private property. — The chateau is reached
from the hotel at which the omnibus halts by an avenue which leads
to the left from the other end of the village and crosses the railway.

The fore-court of the chateau contains the stables. To the right is
the Donjon., a relic of an earlier castle dating from the loth century. The
present Fagade of the chateau has been rebuilt; four Caryatides by Jean
Goujon, which formerly adorned it, have been removed to the park, and

284 Route 38. CHINQN. Excursions

its chief features are now the balcony and dormer-windows. The chapel
appears to the left. On the groundfloor are the Dining Hall, formerly
the ante-room, the former ^Librairie\ with a remarkable chimney-piece
supported by Caryatides attributed to Jean Goujon, and the Chapel, which
contains some old stained glass. Below are the Kitchen and Offices, estab-
lished in two massive piles of an ancient bridge, which originally sup-
ported a mill. A less ancient Bridge leads to the left bank of the Cher, on
which is a singular ediiice, two stories in height, built by Diana of Poitiers.
— On the first floor are the gorgeous modern Galerie Louis XIV., built as
a picture-gallery, Francis I.''s Room, with a Renaissance chimney-piece, and
the Medici Room, with a remarkable ceiling.

b. To Chinon. Railway (Sables-d'Olonne line), 31 M., in 1V4-1V'2 ^r.
(fares 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 40 c).

Our line passes over tlie Nantes railway and crosses the Cher.
At (31/2 M.) Jo we-ies-ToMrs we leave the railway to Loches (p. 285),
oil the left. — 6 M. Ballan. The neighbouring Chateau de La Carte
was the birthplace of Pope Martin IV. (Simon de Brion; d. 1285).
The chapel of the chateau has good stained glass of the 16th century.
— 1072 M. Druye; ilV/r, M. Valltres.

16 m. Azay-le-Rideau ('Crrand Monarque) is a town with 2280 in-
hab. and a very interesting Renaissance ''^Chateau, with a good collec-
tion of furniture (adm. daily after 1 p.m.). The railway now crosses
the Indre. 20'/2M. lUvarennts^ beyond which the forest of Chinon
begins ; 27 '/2 M. Huismes. A tunnel, 1000 yds. in length, is passed
through.

31 M. Chinon [Hotel de France, Place de rH6tel-de-Ville;
Boule d'Or, on the quay; de V Union, Place Jeanne-d'Arc), a town
with 6187 inhab. , is prettily situated on the right bank of the
Vienne, 9 M. above its junction with the Loire. With the exception
of the fine quay, the streets of this historic town are for the most
part narrow and crooked; and many quaint houses of the 15-16th
cent, are still standing. Chinon carries on a considerable commerce
and is annually the scene of important fairs for cattle, grain, and
other agricultural produce.

The Romans built a fort (see p. 285) on the site of Chinon, which they
named Caino. Subse lueutly it was occupied by the Visigoths and belonged
successively to the kingdoms of I'aris and of Austrasia, to the counts of
Touraine, and to Henry II. of England, who frequently dwelt at Chinon
and died there in 1189. When Phili|i Augustus united Touraine to France,
Chinon did not yield to him till after a year s siege (1204-5). Between that
date and the beginning of the 15th cent. Chinon frequently changed hands.
Charles VII. was at Chinon when Joan of Arc first sought him in 1428, to
urge him to march to the relief of Orleans.

The Rue Solferino, leading to the town, traverses a square with
a modern equestrian Statue of Joan of Arc, by J. Roulleau. Farther
on we follow the quay, skirting the Vienne, which here attains
considerable breadth. To the left, on this side of the bridge con-
necting the town with its suburb, is a bronze statue, by Em. HeT^ert,
of Rabelais (d. 15o3), who was born at or near Chinon about 1495.
Op]iosite is the Place de THotel-de-Ville, whence we proceed to the
right through the Rue St. Etienne to the Rue du Puy-des-lU\ncs

from Tours. CHINON. 38. Route, 285

(left), the chief approach to the chateau. In the latter street are
several Caverns in the rock, still used as dwellings.

The Chateau of Chinon consists in reality of three distinct
castles : the Chateau de St. Georges, the Chateau du Milieu, and the
Chateau du Coudray. The plateau on which the ruins stand is now
a promenade, open to the puhlic in summer on Sun. and holidays,
from 12 till dusk. Visitors at other times ring the bell. The Chateau
de St. Georges., of which only the foundations of the outer wall re-
main, was built by Henry IT. of England (see p. 284). The Chateau
du Milieu was built in the 11th and subsequent cent, on the site of
the Roman fort. It has frequently been restored. , The principal fea-
tures are the Pavilion de I'Horloge, at the entrance; the Grand Logis,
in the hall of which (inscription) Joan of Arc was presented to Char-
les VII. ; and the donjon, the part in best preservation. The Chateau
du Coudray, connected with the preceding by a bridge spanning a
deep moat, includes a fine tower and chapel of the 13th cent, (to
the left), and two round towers. The castle commands a beautiful
view of Chinon and the valley of the Vienne.

Near the base of the ascent to the chateau is the church of
St. Stephen, a building of the 15th cent., with a tasteful W. portal, a
wide nave, a modern stone pulpit, some good modern stained glass
(by Lobin), and a noticeable altar-piece. The cope of St. Mesme
dates from the 10th or 11th century. The present church of St.
Stephen was finished by Philippe de Comines, who was governor of
Chinon under Louis XI. In the prolongation of the Rue St. Etienne
are two Romanesque and Gothic towers and other remains of the
church of St. Mesme. Adjacent is a tasteful modern Gothic Chapel.

The Rue St. Maurice, running from the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville
to the other side of the town, contains several curious old houses. It
derives its name from the Church of St. Maurice, an edifice of the
12th, 16th, and 16th cent., with a partly Romanesque tower and
large and fine vaulting. It contains a large fresco, by Grandin, and
several paintings, including a Madonna attributed to Sassoferrato
(on the last pillar to the right).

The view of the chateau from the quay should not be missed.

Branchi-railway to Port-Boulet (Saumur), see p. 235. Otter railways,
see Baedeker''s South -Western France.

c. To Loches. — Railway (Chateauroux line; p. 2S8), 29 M., in IV4-
IV2 lirs. (fares 5 fr. 25, 3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 30 c). This is a very attractive excursion.

We diverge from the Chinon line at (31/2 M.) Joue-Ves-Tours
(p. 284), pass under the Bordeaux line, and ascend a wooded plateau.

10'/2 M. Montbazon, a village on the Indre, commanded by the
huge square Keep of a castle dating from the 11th century. On
the summit is a modern statue of the Madonna.

The line now begins to ascend the vaUey of the Indre, crossing
the river beyond (131/2 M.) Esvres. 16 1/2 M. Cormery possesses s^

286 Route 38. LOCHES. Excursions

beautiful tower and other remains of a Benedictine abbey, founded
in the 8th century.

29 M. Leches {Hotel de France^ near the Porte Picoys), a town
with 5182 inhab. , picturesquely situated on the hills on the left
bank of the Indre, is chiefly noteworthy for its famous castle.

Inhabited by the Romans, and the site of a monastery in the 5th cent.,
Loches with its castle came in 886 into the possession of the house of
Anjou, of which Geoffrey Plantagenet, father of Henry II., was a descend-
ant. John Lackland surrendered this cradle of his race to the French
in 1193, but Richard regained it next year, on his return from the Holy
Land. It fell to France with the rest of John's French possessions in
1206, but was again held by the English for about 50 years in the follow-
ing century. After 1249 the castle was used as a state-prison, and it is
perhaps best known in connection with the unscrupulous and cruel use to
which Louis XL (d. 1483) put its noisome subterranean dungeons (Cachois).
James V. of Scotland was married to 3Iadeleine of France in the castle
of Loches in 1536, and three years later Francis I. entertained Charles V.
here with great magnificence. — Alfred de Vigny (1799-1863), the poet, was
born here.

In the Place de la Tour, a few hundred yards from the station,
is the massive Tour St. Antoine, a relic of a 16th cent, church. From
the Rue de la Grenouillere, which leads hence in a straight direc-
tion, we diverge to the left through the Porte Picoys (15th cent.),
adjoining the *H6tel de Viile, a tasteful Renaissance building of the
middle of the 16th century. The Rue du Chateau, a little farther
on, to the right, contains some picturesque Houses of the Renais-
sance period (Nos. 10, 12, 14, and 23).

The castle of Loches was surrounded by a wall and moat,
l'/4 M. in length, most of which still remains, enclosing, as it were,
a miniature town. The first turning to the left leads to the old
collegiate Church of St. Ours, a unique building dating from the
10-12th centuries. The W. arm consists mainly of a porch, sur-
mounted by a tower, and two square bays, covered by two huge
pyramidal structures in stone; the tower above the crossing has
also a pyramidal roof. The carving around the W. door is very
beautiful. In the porch in front of this doorway is a holy-water
basin, formed of an ancient altar, shaped like the stump of a column
and embellished with sculpture. Inside the nave are heavy pointed
arches in the Southern style, resembling those at Souillac and dating
from 987-1040. An interesting feature is that the Norman round-
arch style (12th cent.) has been built over and upon these earlier
arches (Fergusson). The first choir-stalls (16th cent.) and the cibor-
ium (17th cent.) should be noticed.

Adjoining the church rises the former Chateau Roval (now used
as the Sous-Pre'fecture), in which have dwelt Charles VII. (d. 1461),
LouisXI.(d.l483), Charles YIII.(d. 1498), and Louis XII. (d. iol5).
It dates from the 15-16th cent., and the fai^ade is fine (apply to th e
concierge). This building now also contains the Tomb of Agnes
Sorel (d. 1450), mistress of Charles YIL, surmounted by a statue
of the 15th century.

from Tours. ST. AIGNAN. 38. Route. 287

Agnes Sorel, known as 'La Belle des Belles'", was born at Fromenteau,
about 20 M. from Lochea. As a maid-of-honour to the Conntesa of Anjou
she attracted the attention of Charles VII. of France; and it was very
largely her patriotic influence that inspired that monarch to carry on his
struggle against the English. She left a large sum of money to the monks
of Loches, and was buried in the church of St. Ours. The monks, alleging
scruples as to her past life, reqtiested permission from Louis XL, himself
hostile to Agnes, to remove her remains. The king agreed on condition
that they also surrendered her endowments; but the condition was not
accepted by the monks. The tomb was removed, however, under Louis XVI.
Opened in 1793, it is now empty.

One of the oldest parts of the Chateau Royal contains the beau-
tiful Oratory of Anne of Brittany., wife of Charles VIII. and of
Louis XII.

The *DoNJO]sr, or Keep, at the other end of the enclosure, to reach
which we turn to the right at the church, is still the most interesting
part of the castle. The attendant who accompanies the visitor ex-
plains the various points of interest. To the left of the entrance rises
the donjon proper, a rectangular tower of the 12th cent., 80 ft. long,
4,5 ft. broad, and 130 ft. high, of which nothing now remains but
the four walls. Adjacent, to the left, is a similar tower, but smaller
and in worse preservation. To the right of the donjon is the Mar-
telet, which contains the dungeon in which Ludovico Sforza, 'ilMoro',
Duke of Milan, was confined for nine years (d. 1510). The walls
bear various curious inscriptions by him and other prisoners. Far-
ther to the right is the Tour Eonde or Tour Neuve., built by Louis XI.
This tower contained the famous iron cages in which Cardinal de
la Balue (p. 229), their inventor, Philippe de Comines, the historian,
and others, were confined.

On quitting the castle-enclosure, we turn to the right, to obtain
a view of it from the outside. We may then return to the Place de
la Tour, by the lower street, which passes in sight of the Porte des
Cordeliers^ a town-gate dating from the loth century.

On the other bank of the Indre, farther up, lies Beaulieu., with an in-
teresting abbey-church in the Romanesque style, partly in ruins and partly
restored in the 15th century.

Feom Tours to Viekzon (Bourges), 70 M., railway in 23/4-31/2 hrs.
(fares 12 fr. 65, 8 fr. 55, 5 fr. 55 c). — From Tours to (20 M.) Cfienonceaux, see
p. 283. — 24 M. Montrichard^ a small town, has a Donjon., dating perhaps from
the beginning of the 11th cent., and surrounded by walls of the 13th and 15th
centuries. To the W. of the town is the fine Church of Nanteuil., built in
the 13th cent., with a Lady Chapel of two stories added in the 15th cent.,
which is resorted to by pilgrims. Good view of the church as we quit the
station. — Beyond two tunnels we reach (271/2 M.) Bouri., the extensive
quarries of which supplied the building material for the castles of Cham-
bord, Chenonceaux, etc., and for many buildings in the principal towns in
the neighbourhood. At (31 M.) TMsie are some Roman Remains., supposed
to be those of a 'mansio' or military store-house on a Roman road.

35 M. St-Aignan-Noyers. St. Aignan (Hotel de la Gerbe d''Or), a town
with 3300 inhab., lies IV4 M. to the S. of the station. The older part of
its Chateau (13-16th cent.) has long been in ruins. The chateau contains
various works of art, including an ancient marble sarcophagus, with bas-
reliefs and an inscription in Greek. Ihe Chiirch dates from the close of
the Eomanesque period.

288 Route 38. PALLUAU.

44 M. Selles-svr-Gher is another small town witli a curious churcli of
the 12-15th centuries. — 50 M, Chairis-Gievres. Ihe church of Chahris,
21/2 M. to the S., dates from the 10th century. — 5^1/2 M. Villefranche-svr-
C/ier^ also a station on the railway to Romorantin and Blois (see p. 279) ;
60 M. Mennetou-sur-C/ier, a village with ramiarts dating from the 13th cent. ;
63 M. Thinioux. - 70 M. Vierzon, see p. 400.

From Tours to Chateadroux, 73 M., railway in 22/4-31/2 hrs. (fares 13 fr.
20, 8 fr. 90, 5 fr. 80 c), — From Tours to (29 M.) Loches, see p. 25. Fine
view of the town and then of the donjon. To the left rises the elegant
tower of BeauUeu. The Indre is crossed several times. 42 M. ChdiiUon-
sur-Indre, with a ruined chateau and a donjon of the 12th century. At
(47 M.) Clion the Chateau de llle-Savary appears to the left.

52 M. Pall»au-Sl-Genou. Palluau, with 164U inhab., on the right bank
of the Indre, has an old ruined chateau, seen in the distance to the left.
At St Genou, with 1320 inbab., IV2-2 M. to the S.E., is an interesting
old abbey-church of the 11th century. — 73 M. Chdteaurovx, see Baedelcer''s
South -Western France.

From Tours to Le Mans, see p. 204; to Angers, see R. 31c; to Bordeaux,
and Les Sables-d''Olonne. see Baedeker'' s South -Western France.

III. DLSTKICT BETWEEN PAEIS, THE VOSGES,
THE JURA, AND THE LOIRE.

39. From Paris to Troyes and Belfort 291

I. From Paris to Troyes 291

Ferrieres. From Gretz-Armainvillers (Paris) to Vitry-
le-Francois, 292. — From Longueville to Provins, 293. —
From Romilly to Sezanne, 295. — From Troyes to Cha-
lons-sur-Marne; to Pagny-sur-Meuse; to St.Florentin,300.

II. From Troyes to Belfort 300

From Chaumont to Chatillon-sur-Seine, S'l. — From
Langres to Poinson-Beneuvre; to Anrtilly, 303. — From
Chalindrey to Gray, 303. — From Vitrey to Bourbonne-
les-Bains, 304. — From Belfort to Porrentruy (Basle), 307.

40. From Paris to Epinal (Vosges) 307

a. Via Blesme, Bologne, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt 307

From St. Dizier to Troyes; to Doulevant, 307. — From
Ancerville-Gue to Naix-Menaucourt, 308.

b. Via Bar-le-Duc, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt . . . 308

c. Via Pagny-sur-Meuse, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt 309

d. Via Toul and Mirecourt 310

e. Via Nancy and Blainville-la-Grande 310

From Charmes to Rambcrvillers, 310.

f. Via Chaumont, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt . . . 310
g. Via Jussey and Darnieulles 312

41. From Nancy to Dijon 314

a. Via Toul, Neufchateau, and Chalindrey 314

b. Via Mirecourt and Chalindrey 315

c. Via Epinal, Vesoul, and Gray 317

From Aillevillers to Fayinont, 317. — From Gray to
Bucev-les-Gy and to Besancon, 318.

42. From Epinal to Belfort. Plombieres 318

From Plombieres to Remiremont, 320.

43. From Belfort to Strassburg 322

From Miilbausen (Paris-Belfort) to Bale, 322. — From
Bollweiler to Gebweiler, 323.

44. From Nancy to Strassburg 324

St. Nicolas-de-Port, 324. — From Mont-sur-Meurthe to
Gerbeviller, 324. — From Igney-Avricourt to Cirey.
From Deutseh-Avricourt to Dieuze, 325. — Excursions
from Zabern. From Zabern to Hagenau; to Schlettstadt,
326. — From Barr to the Odilienberg and to Hohwald, 326.

45. From Lune'ville to St. Die' and Epinal 327

From Raon-rEtape to Schirmeck. The Donon. From
Etival to Senones, 328. — Montagne d'Ormont. Cote
St. Martin, 329.

46. Excursions into the Vosges from St. Die 329

a. To Strassburg via Saales 329

Climont. From Urmatt to Nieder-Haslach and the Valley
of the Nideck. Schloss Girbaden, 330.

b. To Schlettstadt via Markirch 331

Hohen-Konigsburg. Kinzheim, etc., 331.

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 19

290

c. To Colmar via Fraize, the Col du Bouhomme, and

Schnierlach . 332

From Plainfaing to Le Valtin and tlie Schluebt, 332.

— Weisse See. Bressoir, 332. — Orbey, 333.

47. Excursions into the Vosges from Epinal 333

a. To the Schlucht via Gerardmer 333

Vallee de Granges, 334. — Walks and Excursions from
Gerardmer, 335. — From Gerardmer to La Bresse, 335.
Lakes of Longemer and Retournemer, 336. — From the ~,
Schlucht to the Hoheneck, 337. — From the Schlucht \ C
to the Weisse See (Lac Blanc) ; to La Bresse, 338. ^

b. To Colmar via the Schlucht and Miinster .... 339

From Miinster to Metzeral. Kahle Wasen, 3 59. — From
Tiirkheim to Drei ^hren (Trois-Epis); to Hohenlands-
berg, 340.

c. To Miilhausen via Bussang and Wesserling .... 340

Vallee des Charbonniers, Lac deBers, Gresson, etc. ,341.

— GrosseBelchen. From Sennheim to Masmiinster, 342.

d. To Miilhausen via Cornimont and Wesserling . . 342

I. Via Cornimont, La Bresse, and Wesserling . 342
II. Via Cornimont, Ventron, and Wesserling . . 344

e. To Belfort via the Walsche Belchen 344

Ballon de Servance, 345.

48. From Belfort (Strassburg) to Dijon 346

a. Via Montbe'liard and Besan^on 346

From Montbeliard to Delle; to St. Hippolyte, 34G.

b. Via Vesoul and Besan^on 347

49. Besan^ou 348

50. From Besan^on to Neuchatel 354

From L'H6pital-du-Gros-Bois to Lods, 354. — From
Gilley to Pontarlier, 354. — From Morteau to St. Hip-
polyte, 354. — Col des Roches. Lac des Brenets. Saut
du Doubs, 355.

51. From Besangon (Belfort) to Bourg (Lyons) 356

From Blouchard to Salins, 356.

52. From Paris to Dijon 359

a. By the direct line 359

From Villeneuve-St-Georges to Montereau via Corbeil,
359. — From Sens to Troyes (Chalons), 364. — From
Laroche to Lisle- Angely, 384. — From iS'uits-aous-
Ravieres to Chatillon-sur-Seine. Mont Auxois and Alise,
365. — Chateau de Bussy-Rabutin. From Laumes to
Epinac. Sources of the Seine, 366.

b. Via Troyes and Chatillon-sur-Seine 367

53. Dijon 368

Excursions from Dijon. From Dijon to St. Amour-, to
Epinac, 376.

54. From Dijon to Neuchatel and to Lausanne . . • • • 377

From Auxonne to Chalon-sur-S;one, 387. — From Dole
to Chagny ; to Poligny, 378. — From Andelot to Cham-
pagnole, 378.

55. Le Morvan. Auxerre. Autun 380

VILLIERS-SUR-MARNE. 39, Route. 291

a. From Laroche (Sens) to Auxerre (Autun) andNevers 380

b. From Auxerre to Autun via Avallon 383

From Avallon to Dijon via Semur; to Vezelay, 384.
— From Avallon to Chastellux and Lormes , and to
Quarre-les-Tombes , 385. — From Saulieu to Mont-
sauche, 386.

c. From Clamecy (Auxerre) to Paray-le-Monial
(Moulins) 386

From Corbigny to Lormes, 386. — From Tamnay-Cha-
tillon to Chateau-Chinon and to Chatillon-en-Bazois,
387. — From Vandenesse to St. Honore-les-Bains, 387.

56. From Dijon to Nevers 387

a. Via Chagny, Montchanin, and Le Creusot .... 387

Abbaye de Citeaux, 3S8. — From Beaune to Arnay-le-
Duc, 389. — From Montclianin to Roanne, and to St.
Gengoux, 3S9.

b. Via Cbagny and Autun 390

From Autun to Chateau-Chinon and to tbe Beuvray, 394.

57. From Paris to Nevers 395

a. Via Fontainebleau and Montargis (Railway to Lyons

via the Bourbonnais) 395

From Souppes to Chateau-Landon, 395. — From Mon-
targis to Sens; to Clamecy (Morvan), 398. — From Gien
to Auxerre; to Argent, 898. — From Cosne to Bourges;
to Clamecy, 397.

b. Via Corbeil and Montargis 398

From Malesherbes to Orleans. From Beaune-la-Rolande
to Bourges, 399.

c. Via Orle'ans and Bourges 400

* Tbe Sologne, 400. — From Bourges to Dun-sur-Auron,

404. — From La Guercbe to St. Amand and to Ville-
franche-d'Allier, 404.

39. From Paris to Troyes and Belfort.
I. From Paris to Troyes.

104 M. Railway (Gare de TEst; ticket-office to the left, at the end of
the station; see PI. C, 24, p. 1) in 2V2-5V4 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 70, 12 fr. 65,
8fr. 25 c.). See also the Map at p. 100.

From Paris to (5^/2 M.) Noisy-le-Sec, see p. 136. — 8 M. Rosny-
sous-Bois. To the right we see the fortress of that name; to the left
is the plateau of Avron (p. 136). — 10 V2 M. Nogent-sur- Marne, a
place with 9400 inhab., extending on the right as far as the Bois
de Vincennes, where it has another station on the Vincennes railway
(see Baedeker s Handbook to Paris). The line passes numerous
country-houses, and crosses the Marne by a curved viaduct with
34 arches, 910 yds. long and 9.0 ft. high. Farther on we diverge to
the left from the Paris Suburban Railway (Chemin deFer de Grande-
Ceinture), which runs to the S. past Champigny, memorable for the
battles of 30th Nov. and 2nd Dec, 1870. — 13 M. Villiers-sur-
Marne^ a village occupied by the Germans during the battles of

19*

292 Route 39. LONGUEVILLE. From Paris

Champigny. We next traverse the plateau of La Brie. To the left
rises the fortress of Villiers-sur-Marne. — 20 M. Ozouer-la-Ferritre.
About 31/2 M. to the N. is the village of Ferrieres-en-Brie, with a fine
Church of the 13th cent, and a handsome modern Chateau^ in the style of the
Italian Renaissance, belonging to Baron Alphonse de Rothschild. It was
in this chateau, on the 19th and 20th Sept., 1870, that Prince Bismarck and
M. Jules Favre met to arrange an armistice \ the negociations, however,
proved fruitless. Visitors are not admitted without an order.

The line now passes through a forest. To the right as we emerge
is the Chateau Pereire, a handsome modern building in the style
of the 17th century. — 24 M. Gretz-ArmainviLlers (Buffet).

From Gketz-Aemainvilleks (Paris) to Vitrt-le -Fran(;'ois, 102 M.,
railway in 6V2 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 5, 12 fr. 60, 8 fr. 10 c). — 7 M. Ifarles.
Branch to Verneuil-rEtang, ^ee below. 8 BI. La Houssaye-Grkvecoeur. La
Houssaye, to the left of the line, has a chateau of the 16th cent., with a fine
park. — 1072 M. Mortcerf^ the junction of the line (unfinished) to Paris
via Villeneuve-le-Comte and Lagny (p. 136). — The train enters the valley
of the Grand- Morin^ which it ascends nearly as far as Sezanne (see below).
14 M. Guirard, a village with a fine chateau, 3/4 M. to the left. The train
next passes La Celle (to the left), with a ruined abbey.

20 M. Coulommiers (H6tel de POurs), an ancient but somewhat un-
interesting town on the Grand-Morin, with 6323 inhabitants. It possesses
a Church (St. Denis) of the 13th and 16th cent., containing some stained
glass of the 16th cent. ; the ruins of a Chateau of the 17th cent. 5 and a
bronze statue, erected in 1884, of Beaurepaire, commandant of Verdun in
1792, who killed himself rather than surrender the town. Jean de Botd-
longne or Valentin^ the painter (1591-1634), was born here.

25 M. Jouif-sur-Morin-le-Marais, with large paper-mills; 26 M. La Ferti-
Gaucher (Hotel du Sauvage), a small town.

47'/2 M. Esternay is also a station on the line from Mezy (Chateau-
Thierry) to Romilly (p. 138), and is to be connected with that from Provins
(see p. 293). Beyond (52'/2 M.) Meix-St-Epoing the train issues from the
valley of the Morin by a tunnel 600 yds. long. •

57V2 M. Sezanne (Hotel de France)^ a town with 4800 inhab., prettily
situated on a plateau, with beautiful walks in the A'icinity. In the town
is the fine Church of St. Denis (16th cent.). Railway to Romilly, see p. 295.

The train now traverses the dreary and barren expanse of the Cham-
pagne Pouilleuse (p. 3 0). At (71 M.) La Fi-re-Champenoise the left wing of
the French army was defeated by the Allies on 25th March, 1814. Line to
Epernav, see p. 139. — 8IV2 M. Sommesous, also a station on the line
from Troyes to Chalons (p. 300). Beyond (100 M.) Huiron the line to Valen-
tigny (pp. 142, 307) diverges to the right and that to Chalons and Paris to
the left (R. 18). — 102 M. Vitry-le-Francois, see p. 142.

33 M. Verneuil-VEtang is the junction of a line from Paris via
Vincennes, and of a branch to (9 M.) Maries (see above). — 44 M.
Nangis, a small town with a ruined castle and an interesting church
of the 14th century; 50 M. Maison-liouge. The train now passes
through a tunnel, beyond which we have a view, to the left, of
the handsome and well-preserved church of St. Loup-de-Naud^
partly in the Romanesque and partly in the Gothic style, with a
richly adorned portal. We then cross the Voulzie by a curved viaduct,
455 yds. long and 65 ft. high.

557-2 M. Longueville (Buffet) is the terminus for the suburban
trains from Paris, and the first halt of the express-trains. Continu-
ation of the railway to Troyes, see p. 294.

to Troyes PROVINS. 39, Route. 293

From Longtjeville to Provins, 4 M., railway in V4 hr. This
branch-line runs through the valley of the Voulzie, and is to he
prolonged towards Esternay (see p. 292). On nearing Provins, we
have a fine view of the town to the left.

Provins {Boule d'Or, Rue de la Cordonnerie 22; Fontaine, Rue
Victor-Arnoul 10), a quaint old town with 8855 inhab., is situated
partly on the bank of the Voulzie and partly on a steep hill above it.

In the middle ages Proving was a prosperous manufacturing town,
containing, it is said, more than 80,000 inhab., of whom 60,000 were
workmen. At that time it belonged to the Counts of Champagne, and it
was not definitely united to the royal dominions till 1433. Its period of
decadence, mainly brought about by the wars with the English, had then
already begun, and its downfall was completed in 1589, when Henri IV
besieged it during the religious wars. — It is now noted for its roses.

On quitting the station, we enter the lower and less ancient part
of the town, cross the Voulzie, and follow several consecutive streets
to St. Ayoul, a Gothic church with Romanesque features, dating
from the 12-16th centuries. The fine reredos of the high-altar,
executed by Nicolas Blasset, is embellished with a painting by
Stella, representing Jesus among the Doctors. The Lady Chapel,
to the right, contains sculptures by Blasset, and the Baptistery, to
the left of the entrance, contains two 16th cent, statues of St. Cecilia.
— To the right of St. Ayoul is the Sous-Prefecture^ established in
an old Benedictine convent, and to the left of the square adjoining
the church rises the fine Tower of Notre-Dame-du-Val, a relic of
another 16th cent, church.

Recrossing the Place St. Ayoul and proceeding in a straight
direction through the Rue de la Cordonnerie and the Rue du Val,
we reach Ste. Croix, a church of the 13th, 15th, and 16th cent., con-
taining several interesting works of art. Among these may be men-
tioned the stained-glass windows of the 16th cent, (in grisaille), the
fonts with mutilated alto-reliefs of the same period, and the lectern.
The Descent from the Cross at the high-altar is a copy of a painting
by Jouvenet. — In the vicinity is the Villa Gamier (p. 294).

The Rue St. Thibaut, a prolongation of the Rue du Val, leads
to the upper town. At the lower end of the street, to the left, stands
the Hotel-Dieu, dating in part from the 13th century. In a side
street to the left, shortly before we reach the Hotel-Dieu, is the
Hotel de Vauluisant, a dwelling-house of the 13th century. The
street to the left beyond the Hotel-Dieu ascends to St. Quiriace,
passing in front of the College, which occupies the site of the palace
of the Counts of Champagne. Some remains of the palace, dating
from the 12th cent., still exist.

The Church of St. Quiriace, conspicuously situated in the centre
of the town and surmounted by an ugly modern dome, dates from
1160 and possesses a fine choir with galleries in the Transitional
style. Its treasury contains the pontifical ornaments of St. Edmund
of Canterbury. A little beyond St. Quiriace, to which it serves as
bell-tower, rises the *Geosse Tour, an ancient keep of the 12th cent,.

294 Route 39. ^ NOGENT-SUR-SEINE. From Paris

surrounded by a strong rampart of masonry built by the Englisb in
the 15th cent, (keeper within the enclosure). The lower story is
square, with round turrets at the angles, the upper story is octagonal.
There were formerly four stories, and the present parapet and roof
date from the 17th cent. only. In the interior are two vaulted cham-
bers, the upper one containing several small cells said to have been
used for prisoners. A fine view of the surrounding country is ob-
tained from the passage round the base of the octagon.

Farther on, to the right, is the Place du Chdtel, with an ancient
Cross and Well. The street facing us leads thence to the Porte de
Jouy (see below). To the left, a few yards from the Place, is the
Rue St. Jean, with the 13th cent. Grange des Diwes, or tithe-barn,
of the canons of St. Quiriace (apply at the house opposite). Its
sunk floor communicates with a series of huge subterranean vaults.
The Rue St. Jean ends at the half-ruined Porte St. Jean. Pass-
ing through this gate and turning to the right, we reach the best
preserved part of the *Rarnparts, which date mainly from the 13th
century. They are strengthened at intervals by round and square
towers, and are bordered by a fosse. Farther on, the ramparts turn
at right angles, and we see the so-called English Breach ('Breche
aux Anglais') made in 1432, and the Porte de Jouy. We should
here descend by a footpath into the fosse to visit the Trou au Chat,
a postern in a tower. The enceinte here is double, one wall en-
closing the upper town, the other descending to the Durteint, an
affluent of the Voulzie, about 220 yds. off.

The ramparts of the lower town were less important, and have
been partly destroyed. They were bordered by a moat full of water,
which still exists and is now skirted by the Rewparts d'Aligre, a
pleasant promenade ^/^ M. long. On a hill to the left is the General
Hospital, occupying the site of a 13th cent, convent.

Farther on, adjoining the promenade, is a neat little Mineral
Water Establishment, with weak chalybeate springs, efficacious in
cases of chlorosis and anaemia (fee 25 c. per day or per litre; bath
1 fr.). Beyond the promenade lies the pleasant public Garden, with
the Villa Gamier, both bequeathed to the town by the late M. Gar-
nier. The Villa contains a Library and a small Museum, which is
open to the public on Thurs. and Sun., from 12 to 4. Quitting the
garden at the other side, we follow the Rue de la Bibliotheque to
the Rue du Val, and then proceed to the left to St, Ayoul.

Ratlw^ay to Troyes (continuation). — The train now passes
through some pretty wooded valleys, and beyond (571/2 M.) Chal-
maison descends again to the valley of the Seine. — From (597-2 ^1-)
Flamboin-Gouaix (Buffet) a branch-line runs to (IOV2 M.) Mon-
tereau (p. 361). — 62 M. Herme ; 641/2 M. Melz.

69 M. Nogent-sur-Seine('CyyTif-rfe-/a-rrou;, a town with 3723
inhab., contains nothing of interest but the church of St. Lawrence,

k

to Troyes. TROYES. 39. Route. 295

a building of the 15-16th centuries. The top of its graceful tower
is ornamented with a grille in the form of a gridiron. The chief
points of interest in the interior are some of the paintings and the
organ-loft (16th cent.). — Near Nogent stood the abbey of Paraclet,
founded in 1123 by the celebrated Abelard, who was interred here
along with He'loise ; the empty vault is all that remains.

We now cross the Seine and ascend its valley to Troyes. 741/2 M.
Pont-sur-Seine is a village with the modern chateau of M. Jean Ca-
simir Pe'rier, which we see to the right before reaching the station.
In the neighbourhood is a stalactite cavern IV4 M. long.

80 M. RomUly-sur-Seine (Buffet-Hotel ; Cygne de la Croix), an
industrial place with 8000 inhab. and large railway-works.

Railway via Esternay to M^Jj and Chateau- Thierry, see p. 138; to (7 M.)
Anglure, on the Aube, and to (I8V2 M.) Sizanne (Epernay), see p. 292.

Several small stations are passed. Beyond (100 M.) Barberey
the railway to Sens diverges to the right, and that to Chalons to the
left (see p. 300). — 104 M. Troyes.

Troyes. — Hotels. Hotel des Courriers (PI. a; B, 2), Rue de THotel-
de-Ville 55, pens 8V2 fr. ; i>d Mulet (PI. pp; A, 3), Place de la Bonneterie-,
DD Commerce (PI. b; B, 3), Rue Notre-Dame 35, R., L., & A. 2V2-4, B. I1/4,
dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8V2, omn. V2 fr. ; De France, Rue Thiers 2, well
spoken of.

Cafes. Caf4 de Paris, Caf4 du Nord, Place de la Bonneterie-, Cafi de
la Ville, opposite the Hotel de Ville. — "Buffet at the station.

Cabs for 2 pers., per drive IV2 fr. ; for 4 pers. 2 fr. ; per hr. 2 & 2V2 fr.

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. 7; B, 2), Rue Charbonnet 1.

United States Consular Agent, Gaston Baltet, Esq.

Troyes, the ancient capital of Champagne., the chief town of the
Departement de fAube., and the seat of a bishop, is situated on the
Seine, which here divides into several arms. Pop. 53,000. Its
narrow and crooked old streets, its timber houses, and its important
churches combine to render it one of the most quaint and interest-
ing towns in Eastern France. Troyes was formerly a place of great
commercial importance, and is said to have lent its name to 'Troy
weight' (?). It is now chiefly celebrated for its hosiery and pork.

Troyes, the capital of the Celtic Tricassi, was called by the Romans
Augustobona, and afterwards Trecae. St. Loup or St. Lupus, one of its first
bishops, diverted an attack by Attila in the 5th cent., but the town was
sacked by the ^'ormans in 890 and 905. Subsequently it became the capital
and residence of the Counts of Champagne, the best-known of whom was
Thibaut IV. (1201-53), surnamed the Minstrel Cle Chansonnier'). It was
afterwards allied to the crown, but fell into the hands of the Burgundians
and English during the madness of Charles VI.. and it was here that the
disgraceful treaty of 1420 was signed, which acknowledged Henry V. of
England as Regent of France, and declared the illegitimacy of the Dauphin,
afterwards Charles VII. One of the articles of the treaty provided for
the marriage of Henry V. with the Princess Katharine of France, which
was soon after solemnised in the church of St. Jean (comp. 'King Henry V.\
V. ii). In 1429, however, the town was taken by the Maid of Orleans. A
century later (1525) Troyes was taken and partly burned b> Emp. Charles V.
Protestantism found ready acceptance among the inhabitants of Troyes, and
the Revocation of the Edict of Kantes ruined its industrial prosperity and
reduced its population from 50,000 to 12,000. Troyes also suffered greatly
from the campaign of 1814, owing to its position near the centre of the

296 Route 39. TROYES. St. Pantaleon.

strategic operations. Among the famous natives of Troyes are Chrestien
the 'Trouvere', Pope Urban IV., Mignard the painter, and the sculptors
Girardon and Simart.

Shortly after leaving the station we reacli the boulevards
which surround part of the old town. Here rises the conspicuous
Monument of the Sons of the Aube (PI. A, 2), a marble group
('conquer or die'), by Boucher of Troyes, on a high pedestal, com-
memorating the war of 1870-71.

Turning to the right, we see in front of us, to the left, the church
of St. Nicolas (PI. 3 ; A, 3), a Gothic building of the 16th cent., with
a porch of the 17th. Above the projecting porch is the interesting
and handsome Calvary Chapel^ with mural paintings by Nicolas
Cordouanier, and an Ecce Homo by Gentil, two 16th cent, artists
of Troyes. To the left of the nave is a Holy Sepulchre (closed),
surmounted by a figure of Christ of the 16th century. The fonts in
front of the Sepulchre and the fine sculpture representing the Ador-
ation of the Shepherds belong to the Renaissance period. The aisles
contain some good stained glass of the 16th century. In a niche
below the staircase to the left of the choir is a painted sculpture of
St. Jerome at prayer, and beyond it is an old painting on wood.

Behind this church are the Market and the Place de la Bonne-
terie (PI. A, 3), beyond which begins the Rue Notre-Dame, the prin-
cipal street in the town.

A little to the right is St. Pantaleon (PI. 4; A, B, 3), another
Gothic church of the 16-17th cent., with an 18th cent, facade. In
the nave, to the right, is a large and curious Calvary by Gentil, the
best part of which is the group of Holy Women. In the adjacent
chapel is an interesting group of St. Crispin and St. Crispinian by
the same artist. The windows in the S. aisle contain fine stained
glass of the 16th cent., in grisaille. Against each pillar in the nave
are two Statues, one above the other, sheltered by canopies, ascribed
to Gentil and his Italian colleague Domenico Rinucci. The vaulted
timber ceiling, with a fine pendentive in the choir, is 75 ft. high.
In the aisles are eight large Paintings: six by Carre', a pupil of Le-
brun, representing the life of St. Pantale'on, a physician of Nicome-
dia, martyred about 305, and two by Herluison, representing the
Nativity and the Entombment. The panels of the pulpit are decorat-
ed with bronze bas-reliefs by Simart.

Opposite the church is the Hotel de Vauluisant (PL 6 ; A, 3), a
private house of the Renaissance period, now occupied by a club.
Not far from this point, in the Rue de la Trinitd (No. 7), the first
street beyond the Rue Turenne, is the Hotel de Mauroy, an interest-
ing house of the iOth century.

Returning to the Rue Notre-Dame, we follow it as far as the
sixth cross-street on the left, where we turn aside to visit St. Jean
(PI. 2; B, 3), a church of the 14th and 16th cent., of insignificantj
appearance and almost concealed by the surrounding houses, but!

St. Urbain. TROYES. 39. Route. 297

containing some interesting works of art. Some of the windows in
the aisles are filled with rich stained glass of the 16th century.
The reredos at the high-altar, designed by Girardon in the Corinth-
ian style, contains two Paintings by P. Mignard, representing the
Baptism of Christ, and God the Father, These are concealed by
curtains, which are withdrawn on application to the verger, the bell
to summon whom is at the right of the entrance to the choir. In
the chapel behind the choir is an Altar-Ficce with fine marble reliefs,
representing scenes from the Passion, by Jacques Juliot (? 1530),
finished by Girardon (casts in the Musee). A chapel to the right of
the choir contains the Visitation, a group of the 16th century, and
one to the left, near the sacristy, an Entombment of the 15th century.

A little beyond St. Jean, to the left, is the Hotel de Ville (PI. B, 2),
an uninteresting and dilapidated structure of the 17th century. A
niche in the facade formerly contained a statue of Louis XIV., now
replaced by a figure of Liberty, dating from 1793, which the Restor-
ation endeavoured to transform into a Minerva. The large hall on
the first floor contains a marble medallion of Louis XIV., which is
one of the best works of Girardon.

The Rue de I'Hotel-de-Ville, a little farther on, leads to the E,
to *St. Urbain (PI. C, 2), a small church of the 13th cent., now un-
dergoing restoration. It somewhat resembles the Sainte Chapelle at
Paris, and is considered a gem of the purest Gothic architecture.
It was founded in 1263 by Pope Urban IV., son of a shoemaker of
Troyes, but has been left unfinished, with only three bays in the
nave. The side-portals, with porches in front, deserve notice. The
height of the vaulting in the nave is 85 ft. The windows, with
stained glass of the 13-14th cent., are notable for the delicacy and
beauty of their tracery.

The '■great perfection (of this church) is the beauty of its details, in
which it is unsurpassed by anything in France or in Germany; its worst
defect is a certain exaggerated temerity of construction, which lends to
show how fast, even when this church was designed, architecture was pass-
ing from the hands of the true artist into those of the mason'. (Fergusson,
'Hist, of Arch.').

A few yards to the right stand the large stone Halle au Ble^ or
corn-market, and the Prefecture. Adjoining these is the Canal de
la Haute-Seine, which we cross in order to visit the Cite. On the
other side of the bridge, to the right, stands the Hotel-Dieu (PI.
C, 2), a building of the 18th cent., in front of which is a fine railing
of the same period.

The *Cathedral of St. Pierre (PI. D, 2), to the right in the same
street, is an imposing and highly interesting building, in spite of
the want of unity in style, due to the fact that its construction was
spread over four centuries (13-16th). It has lately undergone a
thorough restoration. The oldest and most beautiful part is the
choir; the most recent is the W. front, with its magnificent rose-
window, one of the richest and most pleasing examples of the

298 Route 39. TROYES. Museum.

riamTDoyant style (16th cent.) in the country. The facade is flanked
with two towers, of which, however, that to the N. has alone been
finished; it is in the style of the 17th centr and is 242 ft. high.
The crossing was formerly surmounted by a spire 197 ft. high. The
interior of the church, which has double aisles, is noteworthy for
its pleasing proportions. The beautiful ^Stained Glass Windows date
from the 13th century. In the first chapel to the right, in the nave,
is a polychrome Group of the 16th cent, (attributed to Gentil), re-
presenting the Baptism of St. Augustine by St. Ambrose ; in the
Lady Chapel is a Madonna and Child by Simart. The Treasury^ to
the right of the choir, contains many fine old enamels.

Continuing to follow the Rue de la Cite, we soon reach the
church of St. Nizier (PI. D, 2), a Gothic building of the 16th cent.,
with a N. portal in the Renaissance style. It is chiefly remarkable
for its stained-glass windows of the 16th century.

Retracing our steps to the cathedral, we now turn to the right
into the Rue St. Loup, which passes in front of the Public Library
and Museum (PI. 1 ; D, 2), established in the old abbey of St. Lupus.

The Museum is open on Sun. and festivals, from 1 to 5 in summer
and from 12 to 4 in winter, but is accessible also on other days.
It contains sculptures, paintings, and objects of natural history.

The Archaeological Collection (catalogue 75 c.) is arranged in tlie
court, in the open arcade running along the main building, and in some
of the basement rooms. It comprizes megalithic monuments, Gallo-Roman
and Merovingian antiquities, and sculptures of the middle ages and the
Renaissance. Among the most interesting of these are a large Gallo-Roman
piscina and a 16th cent, chimney-piece, etc., in the basement. — The
Natural History Collections occupy three halls in the basement. — To
the left of the court are the staircase leading to the Picture Gallery, and
the entrance to the Salle des Sculptures.

The Sculptures comprize an interesting collection of models and casts,
and a few original works bv the native artists Simart (1806-57; 91 pieces),
Girardon (1628-1715), Paul D'uhois (b. 1829), Valtat (1838-71), Janson (1823-81),
Alfred Boucher., etc. Among the best of these are Nos. 85. 92, 150 (Minerva,
restored according to classic texts and ancient monuments), 116-140 (has-
reliefs from Napoleon's Tomb). 100, 87, 157, and 114, bv Simart; 13, bv
Beylard; 173 and 172. bv Valtat; 248 and 59, bv Janson; 71 and 73. bv
Ramus; 21, 224, and 225, by Boucher; 243, 34. 242, 36, and 38, by Dubois.

The Paintings are on the first floor (staircase, see above). Room I:
Old Masters. To the right, no number, Giulio Romano. Madonna; no
numbers. Unknown Artiats., Last Supper, with ancient painted frame. Ador-
ation of the Magi; 216. Unknown Artist., Assumption; 172. Vasari . Last
Supper; 42. Cima da Conegliano, Madonna and Child with SS. John the
Baptist and Dominic; 140. H. Robert, Roman bridge: 24. Boullongne the
Younger., Judgment of Solomon; 75. Hudson, Portrait; 20. Fr. Boucher,
Genii of the Fine Arts; 108-122. fifteen paintings by Natoire, of mythological
and allegorical scenes and scenes from the life of Clovis; 163. Tiepolo,
St. Thomas Aquinas; 269. Dutch School, Landscape and animals; 38. De
Champaigne, Portrait of an ofHcial and archcantor of Notre-Dame at Paris;
no number. Unknown Artist, Italian view; 153. Tassel, The '.just man' of
Horace; 219. Unknown Artist (signature C. G.), Flowers and fruit; no num-
bers, Unknown Artist, P. Mignard. Portraits; 73. Hesse, Girardcn thesculptor;
103. P. Mign< rd, Mme. de Montespan; 59. Van Duck, Snyders. the animal
painter; 39. Phil, de Champaigne, Louis XIII. receiving Henri II of Lon-
gueville as Knight of the Holy Ghost; 218. Unknown Artist, Flowers and

St. Remi. TROYES 39. Route. 299

fruit; 47. Daverdoingt, P. Mignard; Maltese, 99, 98. Still-life; 89. Le Nain,
Portrait; 162. Teniers the Elder 0), Boors; several interesting portraits.

Between the glass-cases is an Antique Apollo.^ in bronze, discovered in
Champagne in 1813. The glass-cases contain antiquities, lace, embroidery,
objects of the middle ages, enamels, faience, arms, medals, and jewels,
some of which are supposed to be those of Theodoric I., King of the
Visigoths (killed at Chalons in 451), also found in Champagne (Pouan;
1842). Most of the objects have inscriptions.

Room II. Modern Paintings. To the right: lOT. Monginot., The tithe;
81. Lavgie^ Eust. Lesueur and the Carthusians; 15- Biennoury, Dives; 40.
Chinti'euil, After the storm; 142. Ronot, St. Elisabeth of Hungary distributing
alms; 32. Brune., Death of Abel; 148. Sc/iiiz, Eood-screen of La Madeleine
(see below); 101. Merson, Martyrdom of St. Edmund of Canterbury; 149.
Schilz, Valley of Gresivaudan (Isere). — Glass-case with small antique
bronzes. — 88. Lehoux, Sam.son ; Biennoury, 16. Apelles painting the judg-
ment of Midas, 17. jEsop and his master Xanthus; 150. Sebron, Baalbec;
12. Bellel, Samaritan woman; 49. P. Delaroche, Joash found by Josabeth;
no number, Beauc4, Napoleon on the bridge of Arcis-sur-Aube.

The Library, in a new building beside the cathedral, is open on
week-days from 10 to 3, and on Sun. from 1 to 5 in summer and
from 12 to 4 in winter ; it is closed on Wed., on festivals, and during
the vacation (20th Aug.-lst Oct.). It contains upwards of 110,000
volumes and nearly 2500 MSS.; and also some stained-glass windows
by Linard Gonthier, illustrating the life of Henri IV.

We return towards the centre of the town by the Rue Hennequin,
which leads to the left beyond the museum , and again cross the
canal by the bridge to the right, in order to reach St. Remi (PI.
0, 2), a church of the 14th cent., the lofty spire of which is seen
from a great distance. The chief objects of interest in the interior
are a bronze figure of Christ by Girardon, at the high-altar; some
very interesting paintings on wood, of the 16th cent., in both arms
of the transept and in a chapel opening off the N. transept; and
some good modern stained glass.

Farther on in the same direction is La Madeleine (PI. B, 2), a
church in the Transition style of the 12th cent., enlarged in the
16th cent., which well deserves a visit. Its chief claim to attention
is a magnificent */?ooc? Screen., executed by Giovanni Gualdo at the
beginning of the 16th cent., looking almost as if it were hung be-
tween two pillars, with ornamentation of extraordinary richness and
delicacy. This church also possesses some fine stained-glass windows
of the 16th cent., one of which, in the chapel at the end of the choir,
represents the creation of the world in very naive fashion. We
may also notice the paintings at the main entrance, in the N. tran-
sept, and in the chapel at the end of the choir.

To the right of the main entrance of this church stands a gate-
way of the 16th cent., a relic of the convent formerly connected
with it. A little to the S., at a corner of the street, is the Hotel de
Marisy., dating from the 16th cent., with a graceful turret, and fine
grilles at two of the windows. — A little to the N. is the Boulevard
Gambetta (PI. A, B, C, 2), the finest in the town, containing the The-
atre, fhQ Lyceum, and a Circus. It ends on the W. near the station.

300 Route 39. BAR-SUR-AUBE. From Troyes

From Troyes to (43 M.) Sens^ see p. 364; to Dijon, via Chatillon-sur-
Seine, see p. 367.

From Troyes to Chalons-sdr-Marne, 58 M., railway in 2^/2 lira, (fares
10 fr. 65, 7 fr, 10, 4 fr. 65 c). — This line, a continuation of that from
Sens, diverges from the line to Paris at (IV4 M.) Troves- Preize. Both
(3 M.) Pont- Ste Marie and (5 M.) Criney have fine churches of the 16th
century. — 23V2 M. Arcis-sur-Aube (Buffet; Hotel du Mulet^de la Paste), a
very old town on the Aube, with 2800 inhab., is the native place of Danton
(1759-94), one of the chief figures during the Reign of Terror. It was the
scene of an obstinate contest between Napoleon and the Allies on Mar.
20th-21st, 1814, and part of the town was then destroyed by fire. The facade
of the finely-situated Chateau, a building of the 18th cent., still bears marks
of the projectiles. The Church, dating from the 15th cent., has a fine portal.
In front of it is a bronze statue oi Danton, by Longepied. Arcis is situated
in the centre of the Champagne Pouilleuse, which was formerly a totally
bare and sterile district, but is now partly clothed with pine-woods. —
40 M. Sommesous (p. 292). At (54i/2 M.) Coolus we join the Strassburg line,
to the E. of Chalons. — 58 M. Chalons- sur-Marne, see p. 139.

From Troyes to Pagny-sur-Meuse (Nancy), via Brienne and Montier-
en-Der, 107 M., railway in 6'/4-6V2 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 50, 13 fr. 15, 8 fr. 50 c).
This line diverges to the left from the Eelfort line, crosses the Seine and
the Barse, and beyond (16 M.) Piney enters the basin of the Auhe, which
it crosses beyond (22V2 M.) Mathaux. — 26 M. Brienne-le-Chateau , see
p. 142. — 3OV2 M. Val&itigny (p. 142). — 4OV2 M. Montier-en-Der (p. 307);
branch to St. Dizier (p. 307), — Thence we proceed via (fiO M.) Wassy (p. 307)
and several other stations to (631/2 M.) Joinville (p. 308), beyond which we
cross the Marne. — 69 M. Poissons is an industrial village, with a Gothic
church of the 16th century. — 85V2 31. Gondrecourt is also a station on
the line from Bar-le-Duc to Neufchateau (p. 31 1). At (104 M.) Sorcy we
join the line from Paris to Nancy, 3 51. before Pagny-sur-Meuse (p. 145).

From Troyes to St. Florentin, 35 M., railway through an uninterest-
ing district. — 8 M. Bouilly, with a church containing a fine Renaissance
altar-piece. To the right stretches the Forest of Othe. — 20 M. Avxon, on
the site of a Roman town (perhaps Blenum). — 35 M. St. Florentin (p. 364).

n. From Troyes to Belfort.

171 Bf. Railway in 41/4-91/4 hrs. (fares 30 fr. %, 20 fr. 85, 13 fr. 60 c).

Beyond Troyes the line to Belfort crosses the Seine and quits
its valley. IO8V2 M. (from Paris) RouiUy-St-Loup. At (117 M.)
Montieramey are the remains of a Benedictine abbey, the church of
which has 16th cent, windows. We cross a large viaduct over the
Barse. 123V2 M. Vendeuvre (Hot. Andre'), to the right, a country
town containing a chateau of the 12th, 16th, and 17th cent., and
a church of the Renaissance period with a handsome portal and some
interesting works of art.

At (1307-2 M.) Jfssains we enter the valley of the Aube. Fine
view from the station. — Railway to Vitry, see p. 142.

The line now ascends the picturesque valley of the Aube, cross-
ing the river several times. 134 M. Arsonval-Jaucourt.

137 M. Bar-sur-Aubei'^of.dw Commerce; St. Andre; St.NicoUis),
an old town with 4550 inhab., containing a church (St. Pierre) of
the 12-13th cent., another (St. Maclou) of the 12-14th cent., and a
bridge with a chapel of the 15th century. On Feb. 27th, 1814, the
Allies under Schwartzenberg defeated the French here.

The stretch between (142 M.) Bayel and (I441/2 M.) Claircaux

to Belfort. CHAUMONT. 39. Route. 301

is one of tlie prettiest parts of the valley. The latter village (Hot.
St. Bernard), where St. Bernard founded the celebrated Abbey of
Clara Vallis in 1115, lies IV4 M. to the right of the station. The
monastery, rebuilt in the 18th cent, and no longer presenting any
interesting features, has been transformed into a house of detention.

The train now leaves the valley of the Aube. 149 M. Maran-
ville. At (155 M.) Bricon the line to Chatillon-sur-Seine andNuits-
sous-Ravieres diverges to the right (p. 302). Beyond (159 Y2 M.)
ViUiers-le-Sec the lines toBlesme and Neufchateau (p. 311) diverge
to the left. Our line then crosses the valley of the Suize by the
imposing -^'Chaumont Viaduct, which is 700 yds. long and rises in
three tiers of arches to a height of 170 ft. Fine view to the left.

163 M. Chaumont (^Buffet; Grand Hotel de France,- de VEcu;
de la Gare), formerly the capital of Bassigny and now of the De-
partement de la Haute-Marne, is a town of 13,430 inhab., situated
on a barren hill ('Calvus Mons') between the Suize and the Marne.
The Allied Sovereigns concluded a treaty here in 1814, the object
of which was to reduce France to the limits of 1789,

Not far from tlie station is a bronze statue, by Pechinet, of Pliil-
ippe Lebon (1767-1804), the pioneer of gas-lighting in France and
a native of Chaumont, erected in 1887.

The Church of St. Jean, to the left, farther on, dates from the
13th, 15th, and 16th centuries. The S. portal, with its beautiful
double porch, is a fine example of Flamboyant Gothic ; the W. portal
is in the Renaissance style. The choir and transept are surrounded
by a handsome triforium, with trilobate arches filled with Flamboyant
tracery. The triforium in the transept is embellished with an exqui-
site cornice, supported on corbels and ending on the left in a stair-
case-turret ; the ornamentation of the whole is very rich and varied.
The transept has a fine vaulted roof, and the choir is enclosed by a
handsome iron grille. In the right transept is a painting of St. Alexis,
ascribed to Andrea del Sarto. The lady-chapel contains some ancient
mural paintings ; a tree of Jesse is cut in the wall of the chapel to
the left. A chapel in the N. aisle (closed) contains a curious Holy
Sepulchre, dating from 1460. The pulpit, the stalls, and the altar
in the lady-chapel are the work of Bouchardon, father of the well-
known sculptor, who was a native of Chaumont.

The large Tour Hautefeuille, of the 11th cent., a little to the W.
of St. Jean's, is a relic of a castle of the Counts of Champagne.

The Rue St, Jean, to the left as we leave the church, ends near
the modern Hotel de Ville. — In the Rue de Bruxereuilles is the
Lycee, a large building erected by the Jesuits. To the right is a
fountain with a bust of Bouchardon (1698-1762). — Farther on, to
the left, are the Library and the Musee (Tues., Thurs., & Sun., 1-4),
the chief treasure of which is a fine head of Christ by Albert Diirer.

From Chaumont to Blesme (Calais , Amiens, Laon, Rheims, Chalons),
see pp. 307-309.

A branch-line runs from Chaumont to (35 M.) Ghdtillon-sur- Seine (p. 367),

302 Route 39, LANGRES. From Troyes

where it unites witli those from Troyes and Nuits-sous-Ravieres. It di-
verges from the Paris line at (71/2 M.) Bricon (p. 301).

The train now ascends the valley of the Marne, and beyond
(170 M.) Foulain passes through two tunnels.

184 M. Langres-Marne (Buffet). This station Jies about 1 M.
to the N. of the town. \7

There is another station, Langres-Ville, to the S., on^he Poinson and
Beneuvre railway (see p. 303), also at some distance from the town proper,
which is reached by a '•Chemin de Fer a Cremaillere' (rack- and -pinion
railway), on the Rigi system (fares 60, 35 c. ; down 35, 20 c).

Langres {Hotel de V Europe, Rue Diderot, R., L., & A. 21/2,
B. 3/4^ dej. 3, D. 3, omn. V2^^-' Poste, Place Ziegler), a town with
10,330 inhab., a fortress of the first class, and the seat of a bishop,
is situated on a plateau rising at its N. end to a height of 1550 ft. It
is one of the most venerable towns in France, having already attain-
ed considerable importance at the Roman conquest as the capital
of the Lingones ; it submitted finally after the defeat of their cele-
brated chief Sabinus. Afterwards it was several times devastated
by barbarian hordes, and its rise has been slow and its historical
importance inconsiderable. It was occupied by the Austrians in
1814-15. The industrial specialty of Langres is its cutlery.

The main road from the station to the town skirts the W. side
of the hill on which the latter stands; a shorter route, leading di-
rectly to the cathedral, diverges to the left, and the Chemin de Fer
a Cremaillere (see above) also ascends to the left. The little chap-
el on one of the bastions of the fortifications, with a figure of the
Madonna, was erected by the inhabitants in grateful recognition
of the fact that their town was spared a hostile occupation in the
war of 1870-71. The large domed building to the left is the Hopital
de la Charite^ founded in 1640.

The *Cathedral of St. Mammes is a handsome edifice in the
Transitional style of the 12th cent., in which the pointed and the
circular arch are used in happy combination. The W. portal, how-
ever, with its towers, was rebuilt in the 18th century. Among
the most noteworthy objects in the interior, which is characterised
by great symmetry of proportion, are the monolithic columns of
the choir, with their beautiful capitals; the reproduction of the
Crucifix of St. Martin (see p. 303) at the high-altar; the Calvary, in
the S. transept, with its marble statues of the Virgin, St. John, and
Mary Magdalen ; a fine figure of the Virgin of the 14th cent., known
as Notre-Dame-la-Blanche ; a tigure of the Immaculate Virgin by
J. Lescorne' of Langres (1843); the handsome monument of Mgr.
Guerin (1793-1877 ; statue by Bonnassieux) and the modern statue
of St. Mammes by H. Bertrand of Langres, in the N. transept ; some
16th cent, tapestries in the transept chapels; and the small monu-
ments with bas-reliefs in the choir-ambulatory. To the right, in the
choir, is the elaborately decorated door of the Chapter House, which
contains several paintings and encloses a fragment of the 13th cent.

to Belfort. LANGRES. 39. Route. 303

cloisters. Above the door is a bust of Card, de la Luzerne (1738-
1821). At the end of the N. aisle is a Renaissance chapel with a
coffered ceiling.

Crossing the Place in which the cathedral stands and turning to
the right (Rue St. Didier), we reach the Musee^ in the old church of
St. Didier. It is open to the public from 2-4 on Sun. in summer,
but strangers are readily admitted on other days.

The Ground-Floor contains mediseval and Renaissance works, and
numerous Gallo- Roman statues, bas-reliefs, altars, inscriptions, and
funereal monuments, found in or near the town. Most of these are in the
old apse of the church, round the tomb of St. Didier, who was bishop of
Langres in the third century. — The First Floor contains a collection of
natural history, including specimens of the fauna of middle and lower
Egypt, presented by M. Perron, for many years director of the School of
Medicine at Cairo. Here also is a small ethnographical collection. —
The Second Floor contains a small picture-gallery, with specimens of
Corot (16), Luminals (72, 73), Mantegna (82), Poelenburg (96, a miniature),
Tassel (121-130), Ziegler (147-155; Langres), and others. The glass cases con-
tain Egyptian, Celtic, Roman, and Gallo-Roman antiquities, and numerous
mediaval and Renaissance objects are also exhibited here.

Beyond the museum we pass a handsome Renaissance House and
reach the ramparts (fine view), whence we see, to the right, the Gallo-
Roman Arch. This gateway, now built up , consists of two arches,
and is ornamented with five Corinthian pilasters. — We next retrace
our steps to the cathedral, and follow the Grande Rue, which tra-
verses the town from N. to S. This street is soon interrupted by a
small square containing a Statue of Diderot (1713-84; by Bar-
tholdi), the Encyclopaedist, who was the son of a cutler of Langres.
Farther to the S. stands St. Martin s, a low double-aisled church,
dominated by a lofty spire, and dating from the 13th, 16th, and
18th centuries. It contains a fine * Crucifixion carved in wood (be-
hind the high-altar), attributed to Gentil (I6th cent.), an interest-
ing painting by Tassel (Martyrdom of St. Simon), another attributed
to Caravaggio (Christ among the doctors), a statue of St. Louis Gon-
zaga, and the model for a monument to Abp. Morlot, a native of
Langres.

The Grande Rue ends at the fine Porte des Moulins, a 17th cent,
gateway, and at the Promenade de Blanche-Fontaine, planted with
fine trees. The Citadel is on the other side.

From Langres a branch-line runs to (29 M.) Poinson-Beneuvre (p. 368);
comp. p. 302. — Another branch-line runs to (11 M.) Andillj/ , where it
joins the Nancy and Dijon line (see p. 314).

Beyond Langres our line crosses the Marne , which rises about
3 M. to the S.E., and then passes, through a tunnel nearly 1 M.
long, from the basin of the Marne to that of the Saone. — 191 M.
Chalindrey or Culmont-Chalindrey C^ Buffet- Hotel). The viUage of
Chalindrey lies 1 M. to the S.S.W. Farther on is Le Pailly, with a
fine Renaissance chateau. For the line from Nancy to Dijon (Con-
trexe'ville, Vittel), see R. 41. A branch-line also runs hence to Cham-
plitte, a small town on the Salon, and to (28 M.) Gray (p. 318).

304 Route 39. BOURBONNE-LES-BAINS. From Troyes

Our train now crosses a viaduct and passes tlirough another
tunnel, 1200 yds. long. Beyond (191)1/2 M.) Hortes we descend the
smiling valley of the Amance. — 2O8V2 M. Vitrey (Hot, de la Gare).

From Vitrey to Bourbonne-les-Bains, 11 M., railway in 35-40 min.
(fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 35, 90 c). We cross tlie Amauce. — 5 Mj Voisei/.

11 M. Bourbonne-les-Bains (Grand-Hotel des Thermes, Place des BaiuvS ;
Berthe-Gaillard; des Bains, Rue des Bains; du Commerce, de VEst, Grande
Rue) is a tovrn with 4156 inhab., much resorted to on account of its
Thermal Springs (14i)-150° Fahr.), known to the Romans as 'Aquae Bor-
vonis', which are strongly impregnated with chloride of sodium and are
efficacious in lymphatic and scrofulous affections, rheumatism, gun-shot
or other wounds, and paralysis. The subscription to the Casino is 20 fr.
per fortnight or 35 fr. per month, including admission to the concerts,
balls, and theatre. The Band plays at 11. uO, 4, and 8; chair for non-
subscribers, in the morning 10, in the afternoon 20 c. Bourbonne is
scarcely a fashionable watering-place, and a large proportion of the vis-
itors, who number 2500-o000 annually, are actual invalids. The season
lasts from April 16th to Oct. 15th. The Bath Estnhlishment includes the
well-equipped Civil Baths (to the right) and the Military Hospital (to the
left) with baths for soldiers (the springs being the property of government).

On an eminence to the right is the Church, an interesting structure
of the 12-13th cent., with a fine spire. On the other slope of the hill,
beyond the church, are some remains of the Chateau of the Seigneurs de
Bourbonne, below which, to the left, extends the shady Promenade de
Montmorency. — Pleasant walks may also be taken in the adjoining woods;
to Coiffy-le-Haut, on a hill 4 M. to the S.W., with ruins of a fortified
chateau; and to Lariviere-sous-Aigremont, 5 M. to the N.X.W., with a chalyb-
eate spring. — Ghdtillon-sur-Sadne, 6 M. to the E., is an old fortified vil-
lage, with a 16th cent, mansion.

215 M. Jussey (Aigle Noir; du Commerce), a small town with
2600 inhah., is the junction of a line to Epinal (see p. 312). AVe
cross the Saone, not far from its confluence with the Amance, and
ascend its left bank, at some distance from the river.

224 M. Port- d" Atelier (Buffet; Hot. de la Gare, plain), the junc-
tion of the line to Nancy via Epinal (see p. 317). Farther on we
cross the Lanterne just above its confluence with the Saone. At
(229 M.) Port-sur- Saone we leave the valley of the Saone and pass
through a tunnel. 230 M. Grattery; 232 M. Vaivre, the junction of
a line to Gray (Dole, Dijon ; see p. 318). As the train nears Vesoul we
see to the left the hill of La Motte, with its monument (p. 305).

236 M. Vesoul (Buffet ^ * Hotel de V Europe, at the station; Hotel
de la Madeleine, Rue Caniot), the capital of the Departement de la
Haute-Saone, is an uninteresting town with 10,080 inhab., situated
on the Burgeon, to the left.

The wide Rue de la Gare, to the right as we quit the station,
the Rue Carnot, its prolongation on the other side of the river, and
the Rue du Centre lead to the Church of St. George, a building of
the 18th cent., with lofty and graceful vaulting. The first chapel to
the right contains a Holy Sepulchre, with stone statues. In the ad-
jacent Rue du College, to the left, stands a Gothic House of the
16th century. The street to the left of the church leads to the Pu-
tais de Justice, another edifice of the 18th century. If we follow the
narrow Rue de la Mairie, which diverges to the left on this side of

to Belfort. VESOUL. 39. Route. 305

the Palais de Justice, and then take the winding footpath outside
the town, we reach (20 min.) the top of the hill of La Motte
(1265 ft.), which is surmounted by a figure of the Virgin under a
Gothic canopy, erected in 1854-57. View extensive but somewhat
monotonous. — Proceeding to the left from the Palais de Justice,
we reach (2 min.) the Place Neuve, with the Monument des Gardes
Mobiles^ erected to the memory of the Gardes Mobiles of this depart-
ment who fell in 1870-71. At the end of the Place is the Breuil, a
promenade shaded with fine plane-trees. The Rue du Breuil, at its
other end, leads back to the Rue Oarnot.

From Vesoul to Gray, to Dijon, and to Besangon, see p. 317 and R. 48b.

241 M. Colombier ; 246 M. Creveney-Saulx.' The train now
passes through a tunnel 676 yds. long. 250 M. GenevreuiUe.

255 M. Lure (Hotel de V Europe, at the station ; Hotel deFrance),
a town of 5887 inhab., formerly the seat of an abbey, of which the
building (18th cent.) now occupied by the Sous-Prefecture, in the
main street, to the left, with a small lake in front, formed part.

Line to Epinal (Plombieres), see E. 42. — This line is continued
to the S. of Lure through the valley of the Ognon, to (25 M.) Monthozon
(p. 347), via (11 M.) Villersexel, near which Bourhaki won a fruitless victory
over the Germans under AVerder in Jan., 1871.

The Vosges, which have already been visible to the left for some
time, now become more and more distinct, the most prominent
summits being the Ballons de Servance and d' Alsace. The Jura is
also visible on the horizon, to the right. The train ascends the
valley of the Rahin. 262 M. Ronchamp ; 266 M. Champayney, to the
S. of the Ballon de Servance, with coal-mines. We then pass through
a tunnel ^/^ M. in length. To the left lies the Etang de Malsausse.

27072 M. Bas-Evette, the junction of a line to Giromagny (p. 345),
is not improbably the Magetohria where Ariovistus, king of the
Suevi, defeated the ^dui about 70 A. D. Some authorities, however,
place Magetobria near Luxeuil (p. 321) or near Gray (p. 318).

To the right rises the Montague du Salbert, a fortified hill.
Farther on, to the left, are the citadel of Belfort, with its lion, and
the Tour de la Miotte (p. 306). As we near the town, we have the
manufactories of G. Koechlin and Dollfus-Mieg to the right, and an
artizans' quarter to the left.

275 M. Belfort. — Hotels. ^Ancienne Poste, Faubourg de France,
opposite the bridge, somewhat expensive; *Tonneau d''Oe, Place d'Armes*,
-DE France, at the station ; des Messageeies, Rue du Faubourg-de-France 16.

Cafes. At the Ancienne Poste and the Tonneau d^Oi', see above-, Hirtz^
opposite the Ancienne Poste. — Brasserie Lutz., with garden, Caf&-Bvasserie
Terminus., both near the station ; Brasserie-Concert de VEldorado., Rue du
Faubourg-de-France 39. — ^Railway Buffet.

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue du Faubourg-de-France 23.

Cabs. With one horse, per drive IV4 fr., at night i^k, per hr. 2 and
272 fr. ; with two horses, 2, 2V2, 2, and 3 fr. — Carriage to the Ballon
d"" Alsace (p. 344), from Mich. Wandres, Rue du Faubourg-des-Ancetres 7,
with one horse, 1-2 pers. 20, 3-4 pers. 25 fr.; with two horses, 6-3 pers. 35 fr.

Baths. Stiegler^ Rue du Faubourg-des-Anc§tres 30 (1 fr.).

Baedeker's iJ^orthern France. 3rd Edit. 20

306 Roicte :19. BELFORT.

Belfort or Bifort^ a town witL 28,715 inliab. (8400 in 1870) and
a fortress of tlie first class, on the Savoureuse, k a place of great
military importance, commanding the passage between the Vosges
and the Jura known as the Trouee de Belfort. ~

Founded about the 11th cent., Belfort was taken by the Swedes in
1632 and 1634 and by the French in 1636; and in 1648 it was formally
united to France. In 1814-15 the fortress successfully withstood the Allies,
who did not obtain possession of it until after peace was concluded; and
the same result attended the siege by the Germans in 1870-71. This last
siege lasted from Nov. 3rd, 1870, to Feb. 16th, 1871; and the bombardment
began on Dec. 3rd. The Germans, however, svicceeded only in taking the
detached forts of Hautes-Perches and Basses-Perches, to the S.E., and it
was not till the conclusion of an armistice and under orders from the
French government that the garrison capitulated with the honours of
war. The attack was carried on by General von Treskow, the defence
liy Lieut. -Col. Denfert-Rochereau. Bourbaki attempted in vain to raise
the siege (see p. 346j.

Belfort contains little to interest the tourist. It is divided into
two chief parts: the well-built modern quarter on the right bank of
the Savoureuse, still named ihQ Faubourg de France, though within
the line of fortification ; and the old town on the left bank, which we
reach from the railway-station by turning to the left and traversing
the Faubourg. The town is commanded by an imposing Citadel^
on the summit of a rock 220 ft, higli. In front of it is the colossal
'•'Lion of Belfort^ 36 ft. high and 72 ft. long, carved by Bartholdi in
commemoration of the defence of 1870-71.

We enter the old town by the wide new Avenue Carnot and
soon reach the Place d'Armes, with the Parish Church, dating from
1729-50; the Hotti de Vilie, containing a small museum (open on
8un., 2-4) and a Salle d'Honneur, with modern paintings from the
history of the town; and the Quand-Mcme, a bronze group by
Mercie, dedicated to the memory of Thiers and Denfert-Rochereau.

Those who desire a nearer view of the above-mentioned Lion
follow the street to the right of the Hotel deVille and pass through
the Porte de Montbe'liard. The custodian lives at No. 2. Rue du
Vieux-Marche (daily in summer, 9-12 and 2-6, in winter Sun.
& Thurs. only, 1-4; adm. 50 c, more than 3 pers. 25 c. each, on
Sun. & holidays 10 c. each pers.).

The Rue de la Grande-Fontaine, to the right of the church,
leads towards the Porte de Brisach, another 18th cent, structure,
lieyond it is a valley, which has been transformed into a huge En-
trenched Camp, capable of holding 20,000 men and traversed by
the highroad to Strassburg. To the right is the Basle road, which
passes between the Citadel and another rock surmounted by thv
Fort de Justice. At the end of the valley (2 M.) rises the Fort de la
AJiotte, with an old tower which is considered in some sort the pal-
ladium of Belfort. It was battered to pieces in the siege of 1870-71
and has since been rebuilt. The strong fortifications have been made
still strouger since the last siege, chiefly by the erection of detached
forts on the neighbouring hills, some ;it a distance of 15 M.

ST. DIZTER. 40. Route. 307

At the village of Cravanche, 1^4 M. to tlie N.W. of Bclfort, are some
interesting Stalactife Caverns (1-3 pers., 1 fr., more 25 c. each).

From Belfort to £pinal, see 11.42; to Mulhausen, see R. 43; to Bnssang,
sec pp. 344, 3i5; to BesanQon and Dijon., see E.. 48.

Fkom Belfort to Poerkntruy (Bale), 21 M., railway in ^fi-i^/2 hr.
(fares 3 fr. 85, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 75 c). This line, designed to establish a di-
rect communication between France and Switzerland without passing
through the French territories annexed by Germany, and shorter than
that via Mulhausen, is the only one now traversed by express-trains from
Paris to Switzerland (no passports necessary). Swiss time is 55 min. in
advance of French railway-time. — 4 M. Miroux. At (7 M.) Bourogne the
train crosses the small river St. Nicolas and ihe Bhone-Bhine Canal; 8V2 M.
Morvillai's., the junction of a line to Montbcliard (p. 346); IOV2 M. Grand-
villars. I8V2 M. Delia (Buffet; Hot. du JVord), the French frontier-station
(custom-house), is a small town on the Allaine., with the ruins of a for-
tified chateau. About 1 M. from the station arc the large ''Grottoes of Mi-
Ifcndre., with remarkable stalactites and stalagmites (adm. 1 fr.). These
caves are situated in Swiss territory near the remains of a Roman camp. —
Beyond (18 M.) Gourtemaiche the train passes through a tunnel. — 21 M.
Porrentruy (Hotel National; Cheval Blanc), an old town with 6500 inhab.,
containing the ancient ruined chateau of the bishops of Bale, is the seat
of the Swiss custom-house. From Porrentruy to Bale, see Baede1{er''s
Stvitzerland.

40. From Paris to Epinal.

Epinal may be reached from Paris by seven different routes, served
either by through-trains or by trains in connection, and corresponding in
part with the lines to Strassburg and Belfort. The shortest route is that
via, Chaumont, Neufchateau , and Mirecourt (R. 40 f); tbe quickest that
via Toul and Mirecourt (R. 40d).

a. ViS. Blesme, Bologne, Neufch&teau, and Mirecourt.

262 M. Railavay in 103/4-14V4 hrs. (fares 47 fr. 35 c, 32 fr., 30 fr. 90 c).

From Paris to (135V2 M.) Blesme , see pp. 136-143. We tlien
diverge to the left from the line to Nancy. 142 M. St. Eulien.

1461/2 M. St. Dizier (Buffet- Hot el; SoleiL d'Or), a town on the
Marne with 13,950 inhab., contains important iron-works with large
fftrges and furnaces, and is the centre of the extensive timber-trade
of the department of the Haute Marne. The chief buildings are the
Parish Church, which still preserves its fine Gothic facade, and an
old convent, now an Ecclesiastical College.

From St. Dizier to Trotes, 581/2 M., railway in 21/3-21/2 hrs. (fares
10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 10, 4 fr. 65 c). — The train crosses the canal of the Marne
and the river itself, and traverses a wooded district. 7 31. Eclaron, the
junction of a line to Doulevant (see below); 18 M. Montier-en-Der, or
Monti^render (Hot. des Voyageurs), a village containing an interesting
Ahheij Church., with a Romanesque nave of the 15th cent, and a Gothic
choir of the 13th cent. 28 M. Valentigny., the junction of a line to Vitry
(see p. 142). Thence to (58i/2 M.) Troyes, see p.' 300.

From St. Dizier to Doulevant, 251/2 M., railway in 11/2-3 hrs. (fares
4fr. 25, 3 fr. 20, 2fr. 35 c). — From St. Dizier to (7 M.) Eclaron, see above.
We now ascend to the S. through the industrial valley of the Blaise., with
its forges and iron-mines. — 15 M. Wassy or Vassy (Hotel du Conmierce),
an industrial town with 3T00 inhab., well known as the scene of the mas-
sacre of the Huguenots, which was the signal for the religious wars in
France (1562). It took place in consequence of a quarrel between tlic
attendants of Francois, Duke of Giiisc, and a body of Protestants assem-
l)led ^for worshiu in a barn (rebuilt; inscription) in the street opposite

20*

308 Boute 40. JOINVILLE. From Paris

the Hotel de Ville. We enter the town by an Vancient Gateway witL a
belfry. The Churchy dating from the 12-16th centVhas a fine Romanesque
tower and a handsome Gothic portal. — 25V2 BI- Doulevant-U-Chdteau (Lion
d'Or), a village with iron-forges. About 3 M. farther up the valley (omu.
50 e.) is the Chateau of^ Cirey (17th and 18th cent.), the residence of Vol-
taire and Mme. du Chatelet for some years.
Branch-railway to Eevigny, see p. 143.

The main line next ascends the beautiful valley of the Maine,
which also contains numerous iron-works and foundries. — 148 M.
Ancerville-Gue. The church contains some good carvings and reliefs.

From Ancerville-Gue a branch-railway runs to (20V2 M.) Naix-Menau-
court (see below), passing several industrial localities with factories and
stone-quarries.

15272 M. Eurville , a manufacturing village; 158 M. CheviUon^
another town with factories and stone-quarries. 159'/> M. Curel lies
to the W. of the Val d'Osne, in which are the foundries of that name
(3 M. from the station).

I641/2 M. Joinville (Soleil d'Or), a town with 3814 inhab. and
large metal -works, is picturesquely situated on a branch of the
Marne and on the slope of a hill on which stood the chateau of the
Seigneurs de Joinville. The most celebrated member of the family
was Jean de Joinville, the chronicler (1224-1318) , the friend and
counsellor of Saint Louis. The domain was made a principality in
1552, in favour of Francois, Duke of Guise, and the famous Ligue
du Bien Public was signed here in 1584 with Spain. To the right,
as we quit the station, is a small Chateau of the 16th cent., for-
merly a country-seat of the Guise family. Farther on, to the right, in
the Rue du Grand-Pont, rises a Statue of the Sire de Joinville, a
modern bronze by Lescorne'. The Church, still farther on, to the left,
is in the Gothic and Renaissance styles. The .Hos/)/<a;, founded in the
16th cent., contains some interesting objects brought from the old
chateau, when it was sold and pulled down during the Revolution.
— To Troves and Pagny-sur-Meuse, see p. 300. •

From (172 M.) Gudmont, a short line, 13 M. in length, runs
through the valley of the Roynon, joining the line to Neufchateau
at Rimaucourt (p. 311). Several small stations.

At (182 '/o M.) Boloyne (Hot. de la Gare) we join the line from
Paris to Epinal via Troyes and Ohaumont. 188 M. Jonchtry. —
191 M. Chaumont. Thence to (262 M.) Epinal, see pp. 310-312.

b. ViS, Bar-le-Duc, Neufcli&,teau, and Mirecourt.

256 M. Railway in lO^^VUi/i hrs. (fares 46 fr. 25, 31 fr. 20, 20 fr. 10 c).

From Paris to Bar-le-Duc and (1647-2 M.) Na7i{ois-Fro7iville, sec
p. 144. — Our line now runs for some time to the S.E., parallel
with the Marne-Rhinc Canal, through the valley of the Ornain,
crossing the river several times. 167 M. Liyny-en-Barroi$, a town
of 5350 inhab., with the remains of a chateau; ITO'A M. Menau-
court, the junction of a line to St. Di/.ier (see above). lSai.c-aux-
Foryes, I74 M. to the S., is believed to be the Roman Na.siuin (im-

to Epinal DOMREMY. 40. Route. 309

portant remains). — 174'/2 M. Treveray^ like several of the followino;
stations, contains large metal-works. At (181 M.) Demavge-aux-
Eaux the canal quits the valley of the Ornain, turns to the E., and
enters the valley of the Meuse by a tunnel nearly 3 M. long. — ■
186 M. Oondrecourt (Hot. Moriset), junction for Troyes and Paguy-
sur-Meuse (see p. 300). — 1931/2 M. Grand-Avranville. Grand
(Auberge Pre'vot), lying 2-2V2 M. to the S.W. of the station, oc-
cupies the site of an ancient Roman city, of vi^hich the very name
has been lost. Numerous antiquities have been found in the neigh-
bourhood, including a mosaic of the time of the Antonines, 20 yds.
long and 15 yds. broad (50 c). The considerable remains of a large
amphitheatre, of a basilica, and other buildings are still in situ. —
203 M. Frcbecourt ^ to the right, with the old fortified Chateau de
Bourlemont, containing richly decorated apartments and surrounded
by a large park. We now enter the valley of the Meuse. To the
right diverge the lines to Chaumont (p. 310) and Merrey (p. 311).
2O6V2M. Neufchdteau, and hence to (IbQM.) Epinal, see p. 311.

c. Vi§, Pagny-sur-Meuse, Neufch^teau, and Mirecourt.

270 M. Railway in IOV2-I4V4 brs. (fares 48 fr. 70, 32 fr. 90, 21 fr. 50 c).

From Paris to (191 M.) Pagny-sur-Meuse, see pp. 136-145. Our
line then turns to the S, and asf^ends the pleasant valley of the
Meuse, between partly-wooded hills. At (19572 M.) St. Germain we
cross the Meuse. 200 M. Vaucouleurs (Hot. Jeanne-d'Arc), where
Joan of Arc made known her mission to the Sire de Baudricourt and
begged him to send her to the French court. — Beyond (207'/2 M.)
Pagny -la- Blanche- Cute we thread a tunnel and cross the Meuse.

213 M. Domrewy-Maxey-sur-Meuse (Cafe'-Restaurant de laGare).
To the W. of the station lies the little village oi Domremy-la-Pucelle
(Inn, unpretending, near the church), the birthplace of Joan of Arc.
It is visible from the railway, being the second village to the right,
in the midst of a grove of poplars.

To reach (IV2 M.) Domremy (Inns) from the railway-station, we may
either follow the road which crosses the stream in Maxey, on this side of
the station, or the shorter footpath which crosses the stream beyond the
station, and then the Meuse, opposite the church of Domremy.

There is at present little to see at Domremy, which is a village of
the humblest character. In front of the church is a bronze Statue of the
Maid of Orleans, by E. Paul (1855), and above the portal is a mural paint-
ing, by R. Baize, of Joan listening to the mysterious voices. A little
farther on is the modest Cottage in which Joan of Arc (Jeanne d'Arc, La
Pucelle) was born in 1411 (fee). Above the arched door of the cottage
are the royal arms of France and those assigned to Joan of Are and her
family. Over these is a niche containing a kneeling figure of the heroine,
a reproduction of one inside the cottage, which is said to date from 1456.
The cottage contains at present a couple of statuettes and a bust, but is
destined for the acccommodation of a new museum, which has yet to be
collected. The court in front of the cottage is to be embellished with a
group by A. Mercie', representing Joan quitting the paternal roof led by
the Genius of France. In honour of its illustrious child Domremy was
exempted from taxation down to the Revolution. — The place where Joan
heard the mysterious voices urging her to her task, on a hill about V* M.

310 Route 40. CHARMES. From Paris

farther on, is marked by the modern Basilica of Le Bois-Chenu (not yet
finished), with a fine Statue of Joan of Arc^ by Allard. The interior
(contribution expected) contains some mural paintings, mosaics, etc. —
l)omremy is 7 M. from Neufchateau by the road crossing the Meuse.

216 M. Coussey. Farther on diverges the line toToul (see below),
220 M. Neufchciteau, and thence to (270 M.) Epinal, see p. 311.

d. Vil, Toul and Mirecourt.

256 M. Railway in IO1/2-I41/4 hrs. (fares 46 fr. 50, 31 fr. 40, 20 fr. 50 c).

From Paris to (lO^Yo M.) Toul. see pp. 136-145. Our line turns
to the S. and passes between the hills surmounted by the detached
forts by which Toul is protected. — 206 M. Blenod-les-Tou^ a vil-
lage with a church of the 16th cent., containing the interesting tomb
of a bishop of Toul; 207 M. Buiiiyny-CrtziUes. From i210V-2 M.)
Barisey-la- Cote a branch -line runs to Dijon via Neufchateau
(p. 311). Farther on our line traverses part of the Forest of
St. Ainond. From (220 M.) Favitres^ on the other side of the forest,
we descend into the valley of a small affluent of the Moselle. —
Six small stations. — At (232'/2 M.) Frenelle-la-Grande we join
the line from Nancy to Mirecourt (p. 315). 234 M. Poussay.

237 M. Mirecourt^ and thence to (256 M.) Epinal^ see p. 311.

e. Via Nancy and Blainville-la-Grande.

265 M. Railway in 61/4-12 hrs. (fares 47 fr. 90, 32 fr. 20, 21 fr. 25 c).

From Paris to (219 M.) Nancy, see R. 18; from Nancy to (233 M.)
BlainvUle-la-Grande, see p. 324. Our line here turns to the S. and
crosses the Meurthe. 243 M. Bayon. The train ascends the valley of
the Moselle and passes through a wood. — 249 M. Charmes (Poste),
a town with 3344 inhab., on the left bank of the Moselle, has a Gothic
church, with flue carvings and stained glass.

From Cliarmes a branch-line runs to (171/2 M.) Rambervillers^ passing
(51/2 M.) La Verrerie-de-Portieu.v, with an extensive glass-work ('verrerie'').
— 171/2 W. Kainber'villers (Poi^tc) is an ancient industrial town (5700 inhab.)
on the Mortagne. It possesses some remains of its old fortifications, a
church of the 15th, and a Hotel de Ville of the 16th century. — The line
is to be continued to Bruyeres (p. 334). Omnibus (2 fr.) to O'/a M.) Baccarat
(1..327).

Beyond Charmes our line again crosses the Moselle, lleyond
(260 'A>M.) Tliaon-les-Vosges the line from Neufchateau to Mirei'ourt
is seen to the right, and Epinal to the left. 265 M. Epinal, see p. 312.

f. ViS, Chaumont, NeufchS.teau, and Mirecourt.

251 M. Railway in 10-13V4 hrs. (fares 44 fr. 20, 30 fr. 20, 19 fr. 70 c).

From Paris to (163 M.) Chaumont, see pp. 291-301. Our line
returns towards Paris for 2'/2 M. and then bends to the N. —
160 M. Jonchery. 171 '/o M. Bologne, on the left bank of the
Marne, is the junction of a line to lUesme (see p. 308). Farther on
we cross the stream and quit its valley. 177 M. Chantraines.
181 M. Andelot, a small and ancient town on the Rognnn, known

to Epinal. NEUFCHATEAU. 40. Route. '^W

to history as tlic place where Childebert II., King of Austrasia,
jnade a treaty in 587 with Gontran, King of Burgundy. From
(182'/2 M.) liimaucourt a branch-line runs to Gudmont (p. o08).
r)eyond (1957-2 M.) Li ffol-le- Grand our line enters the valley of the
Meuse and unites with the lines from Merrey (right; p. 309) and
liar-le-Duc (left; see p. 309).

202 M. Neufcli&.teau (^Hotei de I' Europe, at the station; Hotel
de la Providence, near the station), a pleasant-looking town with
4164 inhab., partly situated on a hill, at the confluence of the Meuse
and the Mouzon.

Towards the end of the main street, near a bridge over an arm
of the Meuse, stands the Church of St. Christopher, a Gothic edifice
with handsome modern stained-glass windows. The Rue St. Jean
ascends hence to the upper town, passing the Hotel de Ville, with
its handsome entrance, on the left, and an interesting private house
on the right. At the end of the street is a square with a Statue of
Joan of Arc, in bronze, by Petre (1857). In this square, and in the
Rue Neuve, which descends to the left, are several interesting old
houses. Higher up, in the same direction, is the Church of St. Niclio-
las, the chief one in the town, with a fine nave, a transept at the W.
end, and a crypt under the choir. It contains some good modern
stained-glass windows, by Dupont of Neufchateau, two stone altar-
pieces, and the remains of a Holy Sepulchre. Near this church stood
a chateau of the Dukes of Lorraine.

Railways from Neufchateau to Bar-le-Duc, Pagny-sur-Meuse (Domremy),
and C/taumont, see pp. 309-311. — To Nancy and Dijon, see R. 41a.

The line to Mirecourt and Epinal skirts the E. side of Neuf-
chateau, commanding a fine view of the upper town (to the right),
with the church of St. Nicholas. We now traverse an undulating
and partly wooded district, with vineyards and extensive pasturages,
on which large quantities of horses are reared. The insignificant
Mouzon is twice crossed. — 212 M. Aulnois-Bulgneville. Diligence
to (5 M.) the small town of Bulgne'ville (p. 316) to the S.E., 32/4 M.
to the N.E. of Contrexe'ville (p. 316). — 226 M. Rouvres-Baadri-
court. To the left are the lines to Toul and Nancy (pp. 300, 315).

2301/2 M. Mirecourt (Hotel de la Gare ; Hotel et Cafe des Halles),
a well-built town on the Madon, with 5063 inhab., who make lace,
embroidery, and musical instruments. To the right of the Place
Neuve are the imposing Market-Halls of the 16-17th centuries. In
a street on the other side of the Place is the early-Gothic Church,
with a spire in the Transition style, and farther on in the same
street is the Hotel de Ville, with a fine Renaissance portal.

From Mirecourt to Nancy, see p. 815; to Vittel., Gontrexiville, Martigny,
Chalindrey, Langres, etc., see pp. 315, 316; to Toul, see p. 310.

At (233 M.) Hymont-Mattaincourt the line to Chalindrey (see
above) diverges to the left. The church of Mattaincourt , to the
left, contains the tomb (now a pilgrim-resort) of St. Pierre Fourier

312 Route 40. EPINAL. From Paris

(1565-1640), a former cure of the place, canonized in 1897. — At
(246 M.) Darnkulles, the junction of the line to Jussey (see below),
we join the line from Lune'ville-Saint-Die' (R. 45). — 251 M. Epinnt,
see helow.

g. Vik Jussey and DarnieuUes.

2641/2 M. Railavat in 9V4-15 hra. (fares 49 fr. 95, 33 fr, 75, 22 fr. 5 c).

From Paris to (215 M.) Jussey, see pp. 291-B04. Our line now
diverges to the left from the line to Belfort, and runs to the E.
through the valley of the Saone. After leaving (220 M.) Aisey, with
its ruined chateau, we cross the river. — 224 M. Corre, near the
confluence of the Saone and the Coney. The railway now cuts off a
hend of the river, hut rejoins it farther on. 230 M. Passnvant. 236 M.
Monthureux-sur-Saone, with 1514 inhab., is situated on one of the
peninsulas formed by the winding course of the river.

240 M. Darney (Elephant), a small and ancient town with 1430 in-
hab., prettily situated on the Saone, in the midst of a wooded dis-
trict, has manufactures of cutlery. The source of the Saone lies
about 6 M. to the E. The train now crosses the river for the last
time, and runs towards the N. to the small Monts Faucilles, which
form the watershed between the Saone and the Madon, an affluent
of the Moselle, and consequently between the Mediterranean and the
North Sea. — Several small stations.

At (261 M.) Darnkulles we join the line to Mirecourt (sec
above). — 264V2 M. Epinal (see below).

Epinal. — Hotels. De la Poste (PI. a; C, 3), pens. 8V2-12 fr., du
Louvre (PI. b; B, 3), somewhat lower charges, de Paris (PI. c-, C, 3),
Nos. 40, 2, and 24 on the Quai des Bons-Enfants, the first quay to the
right on the way from the Ptati^n; du Commerce (PI. d^ C, 2), Rue
dWrches 12, in the Grande Ville; *des Vosges, at the station (PI. e j B. 3),
dcj. 21/2 fr.

Gates. Arnould, at the Cercle de Commerce (PI. 3; 0,3); Thomas, Quai
des Bons-Enfants 2b; in the Place des Vosges, etc. — * Railway Restaurant.

Cabs. Pen drive, 1 fr. by day, 2 fr. at night; per hr. IV2, ^1/2 fr. ;
luggage, 25 c. each trunk.

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue de la FaVencerie (PI. C, 2), to the left,
near the Pont des Quatre-Nations.

Epinal, capital of the Departemcnt des Vosges, is a commercial
town with 26,525 inhab., situated on the Moselle, which runs through
it in two arms, dividing it into three principal parts: the Faubourg
d' Alsace adjoining the station, the Petite Ville, and the Grande
Ville. Epinal was founded in the 10th cent, and belonged to the
Duchy of Lorraine until its union with France. There are now
scarcely any remains of its ancient ramparts, but the neighbouring
hills are surmounted by modern forts.

From the Station (PI. B, 3) the street to the right leads to the
Canal des Grands-Moulins, a branch of the Moselle, which we cross
here by the Pont des Quatre- Nations. Straight on, beyond the
Petite Ville, we cross aiiother bridge to the Grande Ville. In a

I ajni luouiaaiiuaa erd^g

to Epinal. EPINAL, 40. Route. 313

square to the left rises a Monument (PI. 7; B, 2) to the -victims of
the war of 1870-71. The Rue du Font leads farther on to the Place
lies Vosges (PI. 0, 2), which lies in the centre of the town and is
surrounded by houses with arcades in front. No. 20, in the Re-
naissance style, is one of the most noteworthy of these.

The Church of St. Goery or St. Maurice (PI. 5; (J, 2), near the
Place des Vosges, built in the Romanesque and Gothic styles, has
a tower in the Transition style, two turrets, and a 8, portal. The
nave is imposing but sombre. Near the choir, to the right, is a Holy
Sepulchre. — The Palais de Janice (PL 10; 0, 1, 2), behind the
church, is modern.

The Rued'Arches, almost opposite the church, leads to the Rue
Sadi-Carnot, which descends to the Pont du Cours. To the left is
the Cours, a promenade on the bank of the Moselle, shaded with
fine trees. Near the bridge are the Public Library (PI. 1 ; C, 3),
and the Departmental Museum. The former contains 34,000 vols,
and 500 MSS.

The Departmental Museum (PI. C, 3), open on Sun, and Thurs,,
1-5 in summer and 1-4 in winter, and to strangers on other days
also, is the principal object of interest in Epinal.

The Ground-Floor ia devoted to the Antiquities. — The Vestibule
contains Roman antiquities (chiefly found at Grand , p. 309), sculptures,
and inscriptions. — ]n the Court are tombstones, altars, and sculptures.
On the wall to the right of the door at the end of the court is a sadly
defaced bas-relief from the Donon (p. 3'2b^), representing a lion and a boar,
with the inscription 'Bellicus Surbur'. Below are some large pieces ot
sculpture, also from Donon. In the middle of the court is a bronze figure
of David preparing to attack Goliath, by Watrinel (1868). — In the Hall
at the end are casts of ancient and modern statues, and small antiquities.

— The Garden also contains antiquities. — The room next the preceding
contains tbe rich Em. Lagarde Collection of arms, etc.; and the last room
has antiquities from the VoFges, furniture, and some paintings, including:
37. Gossaert (Mabuse), Holy Family; 56. C. van Hooch, Tbermae of Titus
at Rome; '6lL. Franck the Elder .^ Crucifixion; iQ. '■Velvet^ Brueghel, Skirmish;
2. Amberger, Adoration of the Shepherds.

First-Floor. On the staircase: Fiere, Heclor and Andromache; Lange,
Episode in the Crimea. — To the right is a Cabinet d''Histoire Naturelle. —
To the left are collections oi Renaissance Furniture., Frankish Weapons, and
Stained Glass of the 16th cent., and an important Picture Gallery. Among
the most noteworthy works in the last are the following. From right to
left: 221. Isdbey, Portrait; 46. Fr. Hals., Boy with a cat; 23. Chardin, The
artisfs mother; 130. /. R. de Vries, 12. Bouts, 13. Boudewins, Landscapes;
98. Bassano, Adoration of the Shepherds; 6. Van Balen, Diana and two
nymphs; 7. Giorgicne, Martyrdom of St, Sebastian; 116. /. ran Ruisdael,
Forett; lO. F. Bril, Landscape; 27, Courtois (Le Bourguignon), Battle-piece ;
Panini, SO. Pyramid of Cestius, 91, Arch of Titu.^^; 70. Lingelbach, Market.

— 33. Fran<;ais, On the Seine; 3. Antigna, Daughters of Eve; 9l. Le Poitevin,
Festival at a chateau; 118. /. van Schu^pen, 68. LepavUe, Portraits; 123.
Velazquez, Portrait of a child; 86. AJorales, Head of Christ; 9. Both,
Landscape; 121. Stella, Madonna; 191. Brispot, Holy water; 28, Gonzales
Coques, Portraits ; 26. School of Clouet, Young woman with a dog and a
carnation; 127. Vouet, Entombment; 58. School of Foussin, Jesus healing
a sick man; 194. Feyen-Perrin, Elegy. — 57. Jouvenet, Latona with her child-
ren (Apollo and Diana) invoking Jupiter against the peasants ; 128. Vouet,
History; 63. Largillitre, 81. P. Mignard, Portraits; 101. Rembrandt, Half-
length of an old woman (1661); 117. After Raphael, Copy of a fresco in

314: Route 40. CHALINDREY.

the Vatican^ Holbein the Younger, 54. Calvin, 53. Luther; 122. Titian C^),
Venus rising from the sea; 88. /. van Neck, Portrait of a lady; 8. Bonvicino
(Moretto), Praying Magdalen; 59. A. Kessel, 145. Unknown Artist, Portraits;
W. Boucher^ Bust of a girl; 126. liihera, Pilgrim praying to St. .Terome; 39.
Van Goyan, Landscape; 74. Loth, Time tearing the wings from Love;
1U7, 108. Ricci, Cenobites tormented by demons; 35. Claude Lorrain, Laud-
scape; 112. Salvaior Rosa, Landscape; 102. Rembrandt, Christ ascending
Calvary, a sketch; 132. Schalcken, Woman visiting a prisoner; 25. Ph. de
Ghampaigne, Portrait; 80. P. Mignard, Charles IV. of Lorraine; 235.
Marchal, Alsatian 'pardon' ; 106. Pdbera, St. Jerome awakened by an angel ;
320. Monchablon, Portrait of Victor Hugo; 1. Bourgeois, Child killed by a
bomb-shell, in marble; 204. Jeannin. Flowers (water-colour); 82. Mignon,
Still-life; 109. H. Robert, The Pont Neuf.

The hall also contains Small Antiquities, Objects of Art of the middle
ages and the Renaissance, Enamels (St. Thomas of Aquinas by Laudin),
and an extensive collection of Medals and Jewels.

The Rue Aubert, prolonged by the Rue Rualme'nil, nearly oppo-
site the Museum , on this side of the bridge , brings us back to the
town on the side by which we first entered it, passing the Fontaine
du Pinnu (PI. C, 2), with a column surmounted by a bron?e Boy
extracting a thorn from his foot (the canting arms of Epinal. from
('pine = thorn).

The Promenade du Chateau or Jardin Doublat (PI. B, C, 1, and inset
Plan), at the opposite (N.E.) end of the town from the station, is a public
park of 65 acres, recently bequeathed to the town. It occupies the site
of the old castle of Epinal, now represented by some scanty ruins. En-
trances in the Rue d Ambrail and the Faubourg St. 3Iichel. — The Buis
dc St. Antoine (PI. E, 3), and other woods on the E. bank of the Moselle,
also od'er attractive walks.

From Epinal to St. Di6 and Luniville , see R. 45 ; to the Vosges, see
R. 47; to Plombi'eres and Belfort, sec R. 42; to Dijon, see R. 41c.

41. From Nancy to Dijon,
a. ViS. Toul, Neufchateau, and Chalindrey.

1381/2 M. Bailwat in 6V2-9'A hrs. (fares 25 fr. 10, 10 fr. 95, 11 fr. lOc).

Nancy, see p. 14G. Thence to (21 M.) TouL, see p. 145; and
thence to (33 M.) Barisey-la-Cote, see p. 310. Our line then leaves
that via Mirecourt on the left and runs to the S.W., via (SG'/o M.)
Punerot, (39 M.) liuppes, and (45 M.) Soulosse. — 48 M. Neuf-
chateau, see p. 311. — The line now ascends the valley of the
Meuse, quitting the river for some time beyond (64 M.) Hacourt-
Graffigny. — 7272 M. Merrey is also a station on the line via Mire-
court (see p. 315). We now return to the valley of the Meuse ; the
train crosses the river and ascends on the left bank. From (84 jM.)
Andiily a branch-line runs to Langres (p. 303). 90 M. Chaudenay.
We now join the railway from Paris to r)elfort (p. 303), which we
follow to (94 M.) Chalindrey (Bulfet). Here our line turns to the
8.W., leaving the Gray line (p. 303) to the left, and begins to tra-
verse a monotonous plateau. 102 M. ViLLeyusien, on the Vinyeanne,
an affluent of the Saone; 116 M. Selonyty, an industrial place to
the right of the railway. Farther on we cross the Tille, another
alfluent of the Saone. To the right run? the line to Troycs via ChA-

VITTEL. 41. Route. 315

tillon. — 121 M. Js-sur-Tille (ITot. cle la Cloche), a country-town
of 1892 inliab., on tlie Ignon, to the right of the railway, with
iron-mines and stone-quarries. It is a station on the line from
Troyes to Ohatillon-sur-Seine (see p. 368), and a line runs hence
to Besangon via (30 M.) Gray (p. 318). At Is-sur-Tiile we join the
system of the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean Railway. — 135 M.
Dijon-Porte-Neuve^ a station on the E. side of Dijon. To the right
lies the park (p. 375). The line now makes a wide sweep towards
the S., unites with the Dole and Pontarlier line, crosses the Ouclie
twice, skirts the Canal de Bourgogne (p. 364), and joins the Lyons
line. Near the central station, to the right, lies St. Be'nigne.
1381/2 M. Dijon, see p. 368.

b. ViS. Mirecourt and Chalindrey.

142 M. Railavay in 8V4-9V-' hrs. (fares 25 fr. 70, IT fr. 40, 11 fr. 40 c).

Nancy^ see p. 146. Our line coincides with that to Strassburg as
far as (2 M.) Jarville-la-Malyrnnge. — 5V-2 M. Ludres ; IV2 M, to
the left is FUville, with'a fine 16th cent. Chateau (visitors admitted).
9 M. Neuves-Maisons. We now cross the Moselle, near its confluence
with the Madon, and ascend the valley of the latter. 10 M. Pont-
St-Vincent ; branch to Toul, see p. 146. After several small stations
we cross the Brenon. — 20 M. Tantonville, with a large brewery.

About 2 M. to the E. is Haroui. Marshal Bassomjncrre (1579-164(3),
l)(}rn liere, and Marshal C. J. de Beauvau (17'~'0-93), once proprietor of the
large 18th cent. Chateau ofHaroiie', are comniemorated by l)\ists, by Huel,
ci-ected in 1897.

22 M. Vczelise^ on the Brenon. 25 V2 M. Praye-sur-Vaudemcnt^
near which is Sion, with a pilgrimage-church. About 27-2 M. farther
on is the ruined Chateau of the Counts of Yaude'mont. — 33 M.
Frenelle-la-Grande is also a station on the line from Toul to Mire-
court (p. 310). At (357-2 M.) Poussay we re-enter the Avinding \ alley
of the Madon. To the right is the Neufchateau line.

37Y'2 M. Mirecourt (p. 311), the junction of lines to Neufchateau
(forBar-le-Ducand Chaumont), Toul, Epinal, etc. (see pp. 308-311).

39 M. Hymont-Mattaincourt , where the Epinal line diverges to
the left. 46 M. Eemoncourt. To the right is the hill of Montfcrt,
with the remains of a fortified chateau; to the left, at some distance,
are the Monts FaucilLes (p. 312). Beyond (481/2 M.) Hareville the
bathing-establishment of Vittel comes into view on the right.

52 M. Vittel. — Hotels. Gkand- Hotel be l'Etablissement, ad-
joining the baths and the casino, pens. 11-20 fr., incl. adm. to casino;
Suisse, new, pens. 8V2 fr. ; x>es Sodkces, R., L., & A. 2-3V-'i B. 3/4, dej.
2V-J, D. 3, pens. 7-8i/i fr.; de Chatillon-Loeraine, 8-12 fr. ; Continental,
8-12 fr. ; DKs TiLLEULS, 6-7 fr. ; Bellevl'e ; de Paris, 7-8 fr. 5 de la Gare,
5-6 fr. ; de la Providence, des Vosges, in the town.

Casino. Adm. (incl. theatre) 3 fr. Subscription for 25 days to casino
alone 10 fr.; to casino and theatre, 30 fr. •, 2 pers. 50 fr. — Mineral
"Waters. Bath IV2-2V2 fr., douche IV4-IV2 fr-, drinking-spring (for the
season) 20 fr. No charge for drinking at the Source Bienfaisante.

TarifT f'M' drives in the neighbourhood.

diQ Routed!. CONTREXEVILLE. From Nancy

Vittel (1100 ft.), a small town with 1683 inhal)., to the left (S.)
of the railway, possesses no interest for the tourist, hut is frequented
for the sake of its cold Mineral Springs, which are used both ex-
ternally and internally, and are efficacious in gout, gravel, dys-
pepsia, and urinary affections. The season lasts from May 25th to
Sept. 25th. The springs lie in the midst of a pretty paik, to the
right, reached hy a passage nnder the railway. The bathing-estab-
lishment has recently been rebuilt by Gamier. The handsome domed
building at the top of the park is the Casino, the terrace in front of
which affords a fine view. Adjacent is the Grand-Hotel, also with
a terrace. Below are the Baths and the Springs. In the town is an-
other small establishment known as the Source Bienfaisante.

54^2 M. Contrexeville. — Hotels. Hotel de l'Etablissement, at
the baths; de la Providence, de Paris, Martin-F£lix, Martin AiNfi,
des Apotres, de France, all near the baths; Harmand, near the pork,
pens. 7-8 fr. ; de l'Europe, pens. V/2 fr. — Xumerous Maisons MeuhUes.

Baths and douches from IV2 fr. Subscription for the drinking-spring
at the Etablissement, 20 fr. ; at the Source le Clerc, 5 fr. •, no chrrge at the
Source du Dr. Thiirii or the Source Afongeot. — Casino. Subs, for i pers.
for 3 weeks 30 fr., 2 pers. 50 fr., etc.

No Tariff for drives; charges high.

Contrexeville (1155 ft.), an uninteresting village on the Vair,
is much frequented for its Mineral Springs, which lie in a pleasant
modern suburb near the railway -station and resemble those of
Vittel (see above). The Bathing Establif'hment is a tasteful struc-
ture, with a long glass colonnade, containing the Source du Pa-
vilion, the most important of the springs. To the right and left
of the court in front are the offices of the managers, the hotel-, the
baths, and the post-offloe. At the end of the court, to the left, is
the Casino, beyond which are gardens, with shops and stalls. The
garden is open to subscribers and their friends only. Warm clothing
is necessary, as Contrexe'ville is subject to sudden changes of tem-
perature. Season, May 20th to Sept. 20th.

Excursions. Via Crainvillers to (5 M.) the Chene des Partisans, a mas-
sive oak-tree. — To (33/4 M.) Bvlgnirille (Lion d'Or), with a ruined con-
vent and castle and a church containing a reproduction of Ligier Richier's
Entombment at St. Mihiel (p. 131). Diligence to Aulnois, see p. 311. —
To (7 M.) the Valley of Bomieral, viil (3 M.) TAgniville and (5V2 M.) St. Basle-
mont, with a mined castle; etc.

61 1/2 M. Martigny-les-Eains. — Hotels. De l Etablissement, with
several S'ependances', pens. 8-25 fr.; International, new; St. Pierre. —
Baths from I'/a fr. ; subs, to drinking- pring for three weeks, 20 fr.

Martigny-les- B( : ins is another village with springs resembling
those of Vittel and Contrexeville. a large and fine public garden,
a casinO; etc. Season, May 15th to Sept. 15th.

{'5 M. Lami rche (Soleil d'Or), the birthplace of Marshal Victor,
Duke of Belluno (1764-1841 ; bust). — 68 M. Rozures-sur-Mouzon ;
72 M. Damhlain.

At (75 M.) Mirrey we join the preceding route (p. 314).

to Dijon. BAINS-LES-BAINS. 41 . Route. 317

c. Via Epinal, Vesoul, and Gray.

1821/2 M. Railway in 10-12 hrs. (fares 32 fr. 15, 21 fr. 70, 14 fr. 20 c). —
Frum Nanci' to Epinal, 46 M., in 13/4-3 lirs. (fares 8 fr. 30, 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 65 c).

From Nancy to (46 M.) Epinal^ see pp. 310-312. Our train
crosses two viaducts, diverges to tlie right from tlie Vosges railway,
and quits the valley of the Moselle. Beyond (53 M.) Dounoux it
passes through some rock-cuttings and crosses a viaduct 125 ft. high,
spanning a pretty valley. Fine view to the right.

64 Vo M. Bains-les-BainS. — Hotels. Des Bains, at the ISew Bath
(seehelow); Hotel Dkouot, at the liridge, pens. 7 fr. — Maisons MeuhUes.

Baths. Public baths: at the New Bath 1 fr., at the Roman Bath 3/4 fr. ;
private baths IV4 fr., 90 c. •, with douche 21/4 fr., l.fr. 90 c. ; 'peignoir
chaud' (.obligatory) 20 c. ; towel 5-iO centimes.

The station lies 2V2 M. to the E. of the town (omn. 55 c).

The small and prettily situated town of Bains-les-Bains is so
called on account ofits warm sodio-sulphated springs (84-122"^ Fahr.),
which were known to the Romans. The springs are of the same
kind as those at Plombieres, hut the watering-place is much quieter
^nd less pretentious. The Roman Bath, of insignificant appearance
and built half underground, lies near the centre of the town, beyond
the bridge over the Bagnerot, the river which runs through the town.
The New Bath rises to the right, on this side of the river. The sauie
building contains the Hotel des Bains and the Casino.

Beyond Bains-les-Bains the railway traverses a wooded district
and turns to the E. At (73 M.) AUlecillers we diverge to the right
from the lines to Plombieres and to Lure-Belfort (R. 42), and turn
towards the S.W. into the valley of the Augrogne.]

From Aillevilleks to Faymont, I2V2 M., railwaj^ in 50-80 miu. (fares
2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c, 1 fr.). This branch, leaving the main line at Corbenan,
ascends the pretty Val d^Ajol (p. 321), watered bv the ComheuuU, passing
(5M.) i^ow^eroWfs '(5840 inhab.) and (9V2 M.) Le Val d'Ajol (7340 inhab.). --
12 31. Faymont, see p. 321.

78 M. St. Loup, a small industrial town at the confluence of the
Augrogne and the Semcuse. Our line now traverses the Combeaute.
81 M. Conflans-Varlgney, near the confluence of the Semouse and
the Lanterne. The railway crosses the latter river and follows its
valley. At (89 M.) Faverney is a depot for cavalry-horses.

92 M. Port-d Atelier (Buffet) is also a station on the line from
Paris to Belfort (R. 39), which line we now follow as far as (104 M.)
Vesoul (p. 304). From Vesoul the raihvay runs back to (IO672M.)
Vaivre, where it turns again to the S.AV. — 120 M. Fresnes-
St-Mamhs is situated on the Romaine, an affluent of the SaOne. The
Chateau de Ray rises from a height on the opposite bank of the river.
— 123 M. VeUexon^ a picturesquely situated industrial village, witl)
iron-w'orks and a sugar-refinery. The line now reaches the bank of
the Saone, which has here a very winding course. At (126 M.)
Seveux, another industrial village engaged in the smelting of iron
from the surrounding mines, we cross the Saone. 129 M. Autet.
— ■ 133 M. Yercux has a 17th cent, chateau. 135 M. Beaujeux-Pran-

318 Route 41. GRAY.

tigny. At Beaujeux, to tlie left, is an interesting church of the 12th
century. To the right is the railway to Chalindrey (p. 303).

139 M. Gray (Buffet ; Hotel de Paris; de la ViUe-de-Lyon)^ a town
with 6816 inhab,, is finely situated on the left bank of the Saone,
from which it rises in the form of an amphitheatre. It is the centre
of a considerable trade, audits river-port is a scene of some anima-
tion. The right bank of the river, on which the railway-station
stands, is united with the town (tramway) by a handsome Stone
Bridge of 14 arches erected in the 18th century. A Suspension Bridge,
farther down, fell in 1897. The Parish Church, in the higher part
of the town, belongs, with the exception of its modern portal, to the
15th century. The Hotel de Ville, which we reach by a street to the
right of the church, is an edifice dating from the second half of the
16th cent., with a facade adorned with monolithic columns of red
granite. It contains a small Muse'e.

Railway to Chalindrey^ see p. 303; to Is-sur-Tille, see p. 315. A brancli-'
line also runs from Gray via (12 IM.) <?//, a small industrial and wine-
growing town, to (I3V2M.) Bucey-Us-Gy. Steam-tramway from Gy to Marnay.

Feom Grat to Bksanvon (Labarre-Ddle), 35 M., railway in P/i-2^/i hrs.
(fares 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 80 c). — 13V2 M. Montagney, the junction of a
brancli-line to (4 M.) Ougney, with the important ruins of a chateau of the
15th cent., and to (IOV2 31.) Laharre (p. 347). — 2OV2 M. Marnay, an in-
dustrial town on the Ognon, with the remains of fortifications, and a chateau
of the 13-14th cent, transformed into a school. Tramway to Gy (see above).
— At (31 M.) Miserey we join the line to Vesoul , and farther on , that
from Belfort to Eesancon (R. 48a and 48b).

The railway to Auxonne and Dijon continues to descend the val-
ley of the Saone, crossing a viaduct and diverging to the right from
the branch-lines mentioned above. Beyond (142 M.) Mantoche we
thread a short tunnel and cross the Vingeanne. 150 M. Talmay,
with a fine 18th cent, chateau ; 153 M. Pontailler, formerly a forti-
fied town ; 156 M. La Marche. We here join the line from Dijon to
Dole and follow it as far as —

163 M. Auxonne (p. 377). Our train then backs out of the station
in the same direction as we entered it, and proceeds to the W. to
(I82V2 M.) Dijon (p. 368).

42. From Epinal to Belfort. Plombi^res.

67 M. Railway in 2-2' '2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 20, 8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30 c.)-, to
riomhieres, 34 M., in 11/2-23/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 20, 2 fr. 70 c).

From Epinal to (27 M.) Aillevillers , see p. 317. The line to
Plorabieres diverges here to the left. Continuation of the railway to
Lure and Belfort, see p. 321.

The Plombiores line ascends the beautiful wooded valley of i\\Q
Augrogne, which contracts as we proceed. — 32 M. La Balance.

34 M. Plombieres-les-BainS. — Arrival. The station lies at the bc-
liinning of the town , near the IS'ouveaux Thermcs and below the park.
Railway-omnibus into the town 25 c, to the traveller's residence 30 c,
trunk 20 c. The hotel-omnibuses also meet the trains.

PLOMBIERES. 42. Route. 319

Hotels. Grands-Hotkls des Nouvkatjx-Theumes , at the entrance to
tlic town, near the Casino; Ghand-Hotel Stanislas, behind the Casino-,
Grand-Hotel de la Paix, to the right, opposite the Casino-, TAte d'Ok,
near the church, to the left, at the end of Kue Stanislas, R. 2-3, B. 3/4,
D. 3 fr.; de l'Ours, near the last, to the right, R., L., & A. S^/i, dej. 3,
D. 31/2 fr.; DES Bains, Rue Stanislas 19; Hijt.-Pens. Bellevue , Avenue
Louis-Francais. In the height of the season (July and August) it is advis-
able to secure rooms in advance. — Maisons Meublees arc numerous, in
Ihe Rue Stanislas, Avenue Louis-Francais, etc.; some have tables-d'hote. —
Cafes. Dm Casino, on the Promenade; des Arcades, Rue Stanislas; Leduc,
near the church.

Tariff of Baths. First-class baths (Nouveaux Thermes, Bain Stanislas,
and Bain Romain) 2 fr. 30 c. ; douche from 1 fr. 5 to 2 fr. 5 c.— Second
class baths : Bain National from 1 fr. 20 to 1 fr. 80 c. ; douche 60 c.-P/'i fr. ;
Bain des Dames 1 fr. 80 c. ; douche 1 fr. 30 c. — Third-class baths: Bain
Tempere 1 fr. 20 c. ; douche 40 c.-l fr. 10 c. ; Bain des Capucins 80 c. —
Etuves Romaines : vapour bath with douche 2 fr., without douche IV2 fr.
— Drinking-fountains ('Buvettes') free.

Carriages with one horse 3, with two horses 5 fr. per hr., cheaper in
the forenoon; drives to neighbouring points of interest from 12-1(3 fr. up-
Avards; apply at the Office, and see also the notices on the promenade.
The fares are reduced at the end of the season. — Omnibus to.the Feuillees
(p. 320), starting in front of the church, three or four times a day (there and
back 11/2 fr.); to Remiremont (p. 320), in lV2hr., twice daily (fare 1 fr. 60 c).

Post & Telegraph Office, Avenue Louis-Franiais, behind the Bain
National.

Casino. Subscription for casino alone for 1, 2, & 3 pers., 20, 40, & 50 fr.
for the season (24 days); for the casino and theatre 40,00, & 75 fr. Single
admission to casino 1 fr. ; to theatre 3 fr.

Protestant Service in the hall of the old casino, at the Bain National.

Plombieres (1410ft.), a small town with 1869 inhab., prettily situat-
ed in a ravine, on the banks of ihe Augrogne or Augronne, is celebrat-
ed for its Thermal Springs, which were known to the Romans and
are the most important in the Vosges. The fame of the waters was
revived in the middle of the 18th cent, by Stanislaus, then Duke of
Lorraine; and since Napoleon III. spent several seasons here and
effected great improvements, Plombieres has become a fashionable
watering-place, which may be described as a miniature Vichy. The
springs, like those at Vichy, are the property of the State and are farm-
ed out to a company. There are 27 springs in all, ranging in temp-
erature from 59° to IGO^Fahr. and yielding 750 cubic metres of water
per day. They are divided into three classes: the thermo-mineral,
the alkaline, and the ferruginous. The first belong to the sodio-
sulphated waters, but they contain a very small quantity of mineral
ingredients and owe their efficacy mainly to their thermal qualities.
The alkaline springs seem to owe their oily nature to the presence
of silicate of alumina. The waters are chiefly used externally, but
a few springs are used for drinking. The waters are efficacious
for diseases of the digestive organs, nervous affections, gout, and
rheumatism. The climate of Plombieres is somewhat changeable.

At the entrance to the town, on the left, are the large and
well-equipped Nouveaux Thermes, erected in 1857. They contain
four public baths and two stories of private baths ranged round
a gallery. The buildings at the sides are the two O'rands Hotels.

320 Route 42. PLOMBIEKES. From Epinal

A few yards farther on is the Small Promenade^ where the
baud plays, the chief rendezvous of the bathers. The left side is
occupied by the Casino. To the left is an entrance to the Park (see
below). On the other side of the Promenade are shops containing
embroidery and other products of local industry. Here also is the
Rue Stanislas^ the chief street, with balconied houses. Halfway up,
to the right, is the wider and more modern Avenue Louis-Frangais.
The Rue Stanislas contains the other bathing-establishments and the
principal springs. To the left are the Bain des Capucins and the
Bain Tempere, both baths of the third rank. To the right is the Bain
National, of the second class, the most frequented of all, with four
I)ublic basins, private baths, and a vapour bath with a douche
known as 'L'Enfer'. Farther on, in the middle of the street, is the
Bain Roinain, a first-class bath, and beyond it are the Etuves Ro-
maines, situated below the level of the street (entrance by the Bain
Stanislas). To the right again, behind the houses, are the Bain des
Dames (second-class), with the Source des Dames, a drinking-spring,
so called because it formerly belonged to the Canonesses of Remire-
mont, and the Bain Stanislas (first-class), with which the neigh-
bouring hospital is connected. Opposite is the Maison des Arcades,
an edifice of the 18th cent, containing the Source du Crucifix (110^
Fahr,), and the Source Savonneuse (varying temperature), two other
drinking-springs.

A little farther on is the Church, a modern building with a
fine spire, in the style of the 14th cent.; it contains some good stained
glass by ChampigneuUe and a handsome stone pulpit and high-altar.

At the end of the town is the Promenade des Dames, which is
shaded by noble elms and contains (near the middle) the Source
Bourdeille, the most important of the ferruginous springs (cold;
used for drinking).

To the N. of the town rises a small plateau surmounted by a Statue
of the Madonna and the small Chapelle St. Joseph, from which a flne view
of the surrounding country is obtained. To reach it we follow the Rue
d'Epinal, to the N. of the Place de TEglise, and then ascend a flight of
steps to the right.

The Park, one entrance to which adjoins the Casino and the
other the Grands Hotels, stretches along the railway, beyond the
Nouveaux Thermes, and forms a delightful and shady walk. It is
strewn with curious granite boulders. At the end of the park we
reach a wood, where there are sign-posts pointing out the way to
the (1 V4 M.) Fontaine Stanislas and other favourite points for walks.

Among the most frequented points in the neighbourhood are the rustic
cafes known as 'Feuillees\ or arbours. The most ])opular of these is the
FeuilUe Dorothde, about 3 M. to the S. (carr., see p. 319), the road to which
diverges from the highroad above the Petite Promenade (sign-posfs). The
Fcuillce overlooks the picturesque Val d'Ajol (see p. 3'21) or Val de Joie, as it
was originally termed on account of its fertility, but a still better view is
obtained a little farther on. The FeuilUe Kouvelle is on the other side of the
valley which we skirt on arrival, to the right of the road to the Val d'Ajol.

FjtOM PLowuiftHKS TO Rkmikkmont. The railway-route from Plonibii-res
to Rcmircmont, via Epinal, is 51 M. long, whereas the highroad over the

to Belfort. LUXEUIL-LES-BAINS. 42. Route. 321

mountains (omn. in summer; see p. 319) is only 9 M. in length. The
charge for a private carriage with one horse by the direct road is 12 fr.,
with two horses 20 It. A much more interesting route leads through the

Val d'Ajol (p. 320; carr. 18 or 30 fr.), passing the Cascade de Faymont ((o
the left, on this side of the village of the same name), and then through the

ValUe des Roches. From Plomhieres to the Val d'Ajol (stat., see p. 317)
the distance is 5 M., to Faymont G M., and to Remiremont 13V2 M. (p. 340).

Continuation of the Railway to Lure and Belfort. — At
(28'/2 M.) Corbenay (see p. 317) the branch-line to the Val d'Ajol
diverges to the left. Beyond (33^/2 M.) Fontaine-tes-Luxeuit we
pass through a tunnel. View to the right.

37 M. Luxeuil-les-Bains (Hotel des Thermes, Lion-Vert, botli
in the Rue Carnot; Malsons MeuhleesJ, a town with 4959 inhah.,
noted for its Thermal Springs, which were known to the Romans.
Like the springs at Plomhieres they are national property, hut
they are less frequented and less pleasantly situated. Three of the
springs contain manganese and iron, and thirteen contain chloride
of sodium. The waters, used both externally and internally, and
efficacious for anaemia in all its forms, are but slightly mineralised,
and owe most of their virtue to their temperature, which varies from
65" to 125° Fahr. Luxeuil was noted in the middle ages for its ab-
bey, founded in 590 by St. Columbanus, the Irish missionary.

At the corner of the Rue Carnot, or principal street, to the right
as we come from the station, is the handsome Maison du Juif or
Francois /., in the Renaissance style, with arcades. Farther up, to
the right, is the old Hotel de Ville or Maison-Carree, a fine building
of the 15th cent., in three stories, with a crenelated tower, a graceful
turret, and picturesque Gothic windows. Opposite stands the Maison
Jouffroy or Pressinye, also of the 15th cent., with a balcony to which
18th cent, columns have been added. — A little below the Maison
du Juif is a Place, containing the Church and the present Hotel de
Ville, the former a fine edifice, of the 14th cent., the interior of which
has been carefully restored. It contains a fine organ-loft of the
17th cent., resembling an enormous corbel or bracket supported by
a colossal Hercules. To the S. are the remains of a Gothic cloister.
Some of the private houses in this Place are also interesting. Farther
on, within the ancient abbey (13th cent.}, is a small Seminary.

The Etablissement Thermal, standing in a small park at the end
of the town, beyond the old Hotel de Ville, is a building of the
18th cent., of unimposing exterior but well fitted up inside. It
contains all the springs (baths 1-2 fr.; douches 1-3 fr.). In the
gallery to the left are a few antiquities. Between the main street
and the park of the establishment is a small Casino (adm. 1 fr. ;
subscrip. for 25 days, 20 fr.), including a theatre (adm. 1-3 fr,).
Farther on, to the right of the park, is a fine modern Hospital.

The neighbouring woods afford various walks, the pleasantest of which
is that to the (31/2 M.) Ermitage de St. Valbert to the N. (adm. 25 c., daily
except Tues. & Ihurs.). We follow the road to Plombieres, which forms

Bakdeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 21

322 Route 43. MULHAUSEN. From Belfort

a prolongation of tlie main street, then turn to the right via the (2V2M.)
village of St. Valbert.

Beyond (42 M.) Citers-Quers the train passes througli woods.
48 M. Awre, and thence to Belfort, see p. 305.

43. From Belfort to Strassburg.

98 M. Railway in 4 V4-53/4hrs. (fares 16 fr. 10, 11 fr.80, 6fr. 85 c.). From
Belfort to Miilhausen, 31 M., in 11/4-2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 55, 2 fr.
35 c. ; express 5 fr. 75, 4 fr. 5 c). From Miilhausen to Colmar, 27 31., in
3/4-l'/2 hr. (fares 3 Jif 50 pfennige, 2 Ji 35, i Jl 50 pf.; express 4 Jl,
2Jl 80, i J^ 95 pf.). From Colmar to Strassburg, 4OV2 M., in 1-2V4 hrs.
(fares 5 Ji 3U, 3 J4 50, 2 J? 25 pf. ; express 5 Jl 90, 4 Ji 25 pf., 3 Ji).

For a more detailed account, see Baedeker's Ehine.

Belfort, see p. 305. We diverge to the left from the lines to
BesanQon and Delle. 4 M. Chtvremont.

8 M. Petit-Croiv (Buffet) is the French frontier-station, where
the luggage of travellers entering France is examined. 91/2 M.
AU-MunsttQ'ol, Fr. Montreux-Vieux (Bufi'et), the German frontier
station. The railway-time is now that of 'Central Europe', 55 min.
in advance of French railway-time. The train crosses the Rhine-
Rhone Canal, which is 216 M. long and forms, in cornbination with
the Doubs, the Saone, and other rivers, an unbroken waterway be-
tween the Rhine and the Rhone. Farther on we cross two large via-
ducts, 65-80 ft. high. Beyond (157-2 M.) Dammerkirch the train
crosses three other viaducts, the last two spanning the III, the pretty
valley of which we now descend all the way to Strasshurg.

201/2 M. Altkirch CTc/c d'Or), a town of 33U0 inhab., with a
modern Romanesque church. 25 '/oM. JUfurth; 27 '/oM. Zillishelm.
To the right rises the handsome spire of the new church at Miilhausei\.

31 M. llL\i.V[i2iXi&eTL [Central Hotel ; Hotel Wagner; Europdischtv
Hof; Hotel du Nord, at the station), a town with 8:i,900 inhah., is the
most important manufacturing town in Alsace (cotton goods, chem-
icals, paper, iron-wares, etc.) but contains little to arrest the tourist.
Leaving the station and crossing the Rhine-Rhone Canal, we enter
the New Quartee of the town, in which stands the Museum, con-
taining interesting Romano-Celtic antiquities and modern French
pictures. In the Old Town are the old Rathaus, built in the 16th
cent., with a painted facade (restored), and the Protestant Church,
a handsome modern edifice in the Gothic style of the 14th century.
The Akbeiterstadt or artizans" colony , founded in 1853 by the
'Socie'te des Cites Ouvrieres', lies to the N.E. of the old town (follow
the main road and then turn to the left).

From Mulhauskn to Bale, 20 M., railway in ^/i-i hr. This line runs
towards the S.E. and enters Switzerland beyond (17 M.) St. Ludwig. —
Bale, see Baedeker's Switzerland.

From Mulhausen to Wesserling, Bussang, La Bresse, etc., see pp. 342-340.

Beyond Miilhausen our line runs back for a short distance in the
direction of Belfort and then turns to the N.W. (right). 33 M.
Dornach; 34'/2 M. Lutterbach, the junction for Wesserling (p. 342):

to Strassburg. COLMAR. 43. Route. 323

39 M. Wittelsheim. To the left rises tlie Grosse i>elchen (p. 342). — •
411/2 M. BoUweiler.

From BoUweiler a branch-railway runs to (8 M.) Latitenbach, passing
through an industrial valley, the busiest place in which is G-ebweiler, Fr.
Guebwiller C'Zum Engel, at the station), a town of 12,400 iuhab., possessing
a fine Church (St. Legerius) in the Transition style. The Grosse Belchen may
he ascended hence in 4V4 hrs. (see p. 342).

46 M. Merxheim; 49 M. RufacJi, with a fine church in the Tran-
sition and Gothic styles; 53 M. Herlisheim ; 54'/2 M. Egisheim, with
a picturesque ruined castle.

58 M. Golmar (^Zwei Schlussel; Hot. van Briessem; Hot. Baum-
gartnei', Sager^ Europdischer Hof., near the station) , a picturesque
old town with 33,100 inhab. on the Lauch and the Logelback. The
road from the station leads through a modern quarter to a large square
embellished with a, Monument to Admiral Bruat (1796-1855), a nat-
ive of Colmar. Farther on is thQ Monument of Marshal Rapp (1772-
1821), another native of the town. Both monuments are in bronze,
by Bartholdi, who was himself born at Colmar. Among the numer-
ous quaint and interesting buildings in the old town may be singled
out the Old Custom House, dating from the 14 -17th cent.; the
beautiful *Ffister House, adorned with mural paintings of the 16th
century; the '•Maiscn des Tttes\ with its fine carvings; and tlie Pol-
ice Office, with a doorway and balcony of the 16th century. The
Church of St. Martin, a fine edifice of thel3-14th cent., contains the
chief work ('Madonna in an arbour of roses') of Martin Schongauer,
the greatest German painter of the 15th cent., who was probably a
native of Colmar (1420-88). To the N.W. of the church, in the old
Dominican monastery of Vnterlinden, is the Mustum (Sun. and
Thurs., 2-6, in winter 2-4, gratis ; on other days, fee), containing anti-
quities and paintings by Schongauer and other early-German masters.

From Colmar to Miinster, the Schhicht, and Girardmer, see pp. 333-339;
to Kaysersherg, Schnierlach, and St. BU, see pp. 832, 333.

Beyond (62 M.) Btnnweier the train crossses the Fecht. 64 M.
Ostlieim.

66 M. Rappoltsweiler (*Zum Lamm, R. I72 c^/ Stadt Nancy),
an old cotton-making town with 5900 inhab., lies 3 M. to the W. of
the railway-station (steam-tramway), at the entrance to a pictur-
esque valley. On the rocks above the town rise the three castles of the
Counts of Rappoltstein (Ribeaupierre) : the '^Ulrichs-Burg, erected
about the middle of the 15th cent, (reached from the town in^/^hr.);
the Girsberg, of the 13th cent., boldly situated on a precipitous cliff;
and Hohen- Rappoltstein, Y2 ^^' beyond the Ulrichsburg. — Route
to the Hohenkonigsburg , see p. 331.

69 M. St. Pitt; the village lies 3 M. to the W. — 71 V2 M. Schlett-
stadt {*Adler und Bock; Goldnes Lamm, well spoken of), a town
with 9300 inhab. , formerly a fortified town and free city of the
German Empire, contains two interesting churches, St. Fides and
.Sf^ George.

21*

324 Route 44. LUNEVILLE. From Nancy

From Schlettstadt to Barr and Zabern. see p. 326; to Markirch and
St. DU, see p. 331.

Our line now bends to the right from the lines to Zabern and
Markirch, and begins to leave the Vosges, Seven small stations are
passed. 93 M. Geispolsheim. Two of the new forts of Strassburg now
come into sight on the right. 931/2 M. iLlkirch-Grafenstaden. To the
right soars the spire of Strassburg Cathedral. To the left diverges
the line to Rothau (p. 330), to the right the junction-line to Kehl.
The train traverses the new fortifications, describes a wide sweep
round the town, and enters the station of —

98 M. Strassburg (see p. 327).

44. From Nancy to Strassburg.

93 M. Railway in 3-6 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 30, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. £5 c. ; express
17 fr. 25 c., 12 fr.). 'Express dOrient\ see also p. 136.

Nancy, see p. 146. As far as Luneville our line ascends the
valley of the Meurthe. Beyond (2 M.) JarviUe-la-Malyrange, the
junction of the line to Chalindrey and Dijon (R. 41b), we cross the
Meurthe. To the left is an aqueduct carrying the Rhine-Rhone Canal
across the river. — 8 M. Varangev'dle-St- Nicolas. Varangeville, on
the right bank of the Meurthe, which separates it from St. Nicolas-de-
Port, has a 15th cent, church with some interesting works of art.

St. Nicolas-de-Port {Du Faisan ; cafes at the harbour), a town of 5040
inhab., was of considerable importance before it was sacked by the Swedes
in 1636. Its ''Church, an edifice of about 1495-1553, has an interesting inter-
ior, with several works of art. The remains of its once very rich trea-
sury are now preserved in a Miisie (adm. 20 c), in a small apartment
beyond the 3rd chapel on the right of the nave. The church is still a
pilgrim-resort on Whitmonday, the chief treasure being a finger-joint of
St. Nicolas of Myra.

Beyond (97-2 ^1-) Domhasle-sur-Meurthe the line is flanked on
both sides by salt-works. 11 M. Rosieres-aux-Salines, with remains
of old fortifications; 14 M. B lain irille-la- Grande (Buffet), the junc-
tion of a line to Epinal (R. 40 e). — ITi/o M. Mont-sur-Meurthe.

A branch-line runs hence to the S. to (51/2 M.) Gerbiviller , an in-
dustrial town with 1600 inhab. in the valley of theMortagne, whence the
railway is to be prolonged to Rambervillers (p. 310) and Bruyeres (p. 334).

Our line crosses the Meurthe twice. The Vosges are seen on the
horizon to the right.

20^/2M.Lujieyme{ Hotel des Vosges. R., L.,& A. 21/2-3 fr.; du Fai-
san; des Holies)., a town with 22,000 inhab., near the confluence of the
Meurthe and the Vezouze. From 1702 to 1737 it was the residence
of the Dukes of Lorraine, and it still retains a flavour of decayed
grandeur. Here, in 1708, was born Francis of Lorraine, son of Duke
Leopold, who became Emp. Francis I. through his marriage with the
Grand-Duchess Maria Theresa and so founded the present imperial
house of Austria. The Peace of Lune'ville, between France and Aus-
tria, signed here on 9tb Feb., 1801, assigned the Rhine and the Alps
as the frontiers of the one and the Adigc as tlio frontier of the othcM.

to S!rasshurg. AVrJCOUHT. dd.Jioute. 325

The Rue Cariiot leads from the station to the Place Leopold,
whence the Rue Banaudon diverges to the left to the Place Thiers
(with a War Monument for 1870-71) and the Grande Rue. On one
side of the Place Thiers stands the Hotel de Ville, in which is a small
Musee. Beyond the latter rises St. Jacques, the principal church,
erected by Boffrand, a pupil of J. H. Mansart, in 1730-45. It pos-
sesses an Ionic portico, with a clock supported by a figure of Time,
and at the sides rise domed towers surmounted by figures of St.
Michael and St. John Nepomuc. The organ-loft, the doors, and other
wood-carvings should be noticed. By the entrance is an urn, which
formerly contained the heart of Stanislaus Lesczinski, ex-king of
Poland, who died at Lune'ville in 1766.

The Chateau, which we reach by following the street in front of
the church and turning first to the left and then to the right, is a
huge and imposing structure, erected by Duke Leopold I. in 1703-6
from the plans of Boffrand, and afterwards embellished by Stanis-
laus. Though several times injured by fire, and now converted into
cavalry-barracks, it still retains its imposing aspect. In the court is
an ec[\iestn&n Statue of General LasaUe[\176-180d), erected in 1893.
Visitors may pass through the chateau to visit the large gardens on
the other side, now used as a public promenade. The gates to the
right lead to the interior of the town.

In the Place des Carmes, at the end of the Grande Rue to the N.
of the Place du Chateau, rises a statue of the Abbe Gregolre, the
famous member of the Convention (1750-1831), by Bailly, erected
in 1884.

From Lune'ville to Si. Did and to Epinal (the Vosiics), see E,. 45.

From (35 M.) Jgney-Avricourt (Buffet), the French frontier
station (custom-house), a branch-line runs to (11 M.) Cirey (Hotel
du Sauvage), with a large mirror-manufactory, connected with that
of St. Gobain (p. 10 i).

36 M. Deutsch-Avricourt (Buffet), with the German custom-
house. A long detention usually takes place here. The German rail-
ways observe 'Central Europe' time, 55 min. in advance of French
railway-time (comp. p. 322).

From Deutscli-Avricourt a brancti-line runs to (21V2 M.) Beiisdorf or
Btiiestroff (p. 135), via (14 M.) Dieuze (Lion d'Or), a small town (p. 152),
witU extensive salt-vporks.

Near (38 M.) Rixingen, Fr. Rechicourt-le-Clidteau , is the forest
of that name, with the Etang de Gondrexange (to the N.) and other
ponds. 44 M. Hemingen.

49 M. Saarburg, Fr. Sarrebourg (Hotel de VAbondance), a small
town on the Saar (Sarre), still partly surrounded with walls , is the
junction of lines to Metz (p. 134) and Saargemiind (Sarreguemines ;
see Baedeker s Rhine^.

51 Y2 M. Rieding. The train now quits the rich plains of Lor-
raine , penetrates a spur of the Vosges Mts. by the tunnel of Arz-
weiler, II/2 M. in length, and enters the valley of the Zorn. The

326 Boute 44. , ZABERN. From Nancy

Rhine-Marne Canal also passes througii a tunnel here. 55 M. Arz-
u-eiler. Opposite (59 M.) Lutzelburg, the last station in Lorraine, rises
a picturesque ruined fortress.

A ateam-tramway runs hence to (3 M.) Pfcthhtirg ; and a diligence plies
via the valley of the Zorn to (8 M.) Dagshourg^ Fr. Daho (Bouhr, Eiebel),
a summer-resort, the birthplace of Pope Leo IX. (1002-54).

Tunnels, bridges, and cuttings now follow each other in rapid
succession. To the right are the two old castles of Geroldseclc; then,
on the top of a hill, that of Hoh-Barr. On a wooded height to the
right, farther on, are the ruins of Greiffenstein. The train now quits
the Vosges Mts. and enters Alsace.

65 m. Zabern (*H6tel de la Gare; des Vosges; Sonne; '^■Buffet),
French Saverne, the Roman Tabernae, wiih 8300 inhab., is pictur-
esquely situated at the mouth of a defile. The Episcopal Palace^ dat-
ing from the 18th cent., is now a barrack. The Church dates mainly
from the 15th century. Adjacent is a small Museum of Antiquities.

Excursions. To reach (1 hr.) the ancient castle of Greiffenstein
(1257 ft.), a fastness of the 12-15th cent., we follow the highroad to the
W. for 3/4 M. (or along the canal), then cross the Zorn and the railway,
and ascend through wood to the left; fine view from the castle. — A still
liner walk is that to the (3/4 hr.) *Hoh-Barr, an extensive and picturesque
ruined castle of the ll-12th cent, to the S.E. About 1 M. farther on is the
ruin of G7'oss-Geroldseck (ibis tt.)^ and 1/2 M. beyond it ihe Klein- Gei'oldsecJ,-.

From Zaberx to Hagenau, 26 M. , railway in 21/2 hrs. (fares 3 Jl 40,
2Ji 30, I Jl 50 pf.). — The principal intermediate station is (I01/2 M.) Buchs-
iceiler, a small town with chemical works, the remains of an old chateau,
and some Renaissance buildings. — For Hagenau, see Baedeker''s Rhine.

From Zabf.rx to Schlettstadt. 41 M. , railway in 23/i hrs. (fares
5 J^ 30, 3 ,4 50, 2 Jl 30 pf.). — 5 M. Maursmiinster, with a handsome, late-
Romanesque abbey-church. — From (9 M.) Romansireiler a diligence runs to
(6 M.) Wangenhurg , whence the Schneeberg (3160 ft. 5 *View) mav be ascended
ill IV2 hr. The descent may be made to (3 hrs.) Urmatt (p. 330). — 11 M.
Wasselnheim ("Goldner Apfel)., a small town prettily situated on the
ilossig , with the ruins of an old castle and extensive stocking-factories.
— IT Bf . Sulzbad ; 20 M. Molsheim, the junction of the Strasslnirg and Ro-
thau railway (p. 331). From (22^/2 M.) Rosheim (Pflug) we mav visit
(21/2 hrs.) Schloss Girbaden (p. 330). — 26 M. Ober-Ehnheim (Wagner; Vorin-
irald), a town with 4(XXJ inhab., may be made tlie starling-point for an ex-
cursion to the Odilienberg, which is, however, preferably visited from
Barr (see below). The carriage-road ('J M.) leads by (2V2 M.) Nieder-Otrott
and Klingenihal, but pedestrians eO'ect a considerable saving by following
the road from Nieder-Otrott to Ober-Oiroii, and 7 min. beyond the latter
taking a forest-path to Ihe right, which follows an ancient Roman cause-
way and leads to the top in IV4 hr. Another path, recently constructed
by the Vosges Club, ascends direct from Ober-Otrott. Above i^ieder-
Otrott rise the ruins of Liitzelbourg and Uathsamhausen.

30 M. Ban- ("Rotes I/a>'s ; "Krone), a busy little town of 5600 inhab..
at the mouth of the Kirneekthal^ is the best starting-point for an ascent of
the Odilienberg (see p. 327). 31 M. Eichhofen, the station for (2 M.) Andlau
(see p. 327); 33 M. Epfig ; 36 M. Dambach , with remains of fortifications;
331/2 M. Scherweiler. — 41 M. Schlettstadt, see p. 323.

The road from Barr to the Odilienberg (2V2 hrs.) leads from the sta-
tion direct to the N., via (1 M.) Heiligenstein, 1/2 51. beyond which a finger-
post indicates the way (to the left) to (2/4 M.) Trvtlenhausen. A little farther
on, at the beginning of the wood, is a finger-post, pointing in a straight
direction to the Odilienberg, and to the left to (V2 hr.) the ruined castle

to ^'^frassburg. STRASSBURG. 44. Route. 327

of Landsherg. We flien pass the Odilienbrunnen. a spring by the roadside,
and in V-J hr. more reach the Convent of St. Odile^ on theE. side of the
*Odilienberg (2470 ft.). The convent, which is said to have been founded
in tlie 7th cent., is much frequented by pilgrims to the tomb of St. Odile
and by tourists. The convent-garden commands a charming view, and a
still more extensive one is obtained from the "Mennelstein (2675 ft.), the
highest point of the Odilienberg ridge, which rises to the S.E. and may
be ascended from the convent in V2 hr. At the N. end of the ridge are
the ruins of Hagelschloss , which may be reached in 3/4 hr. More to the
W. is the ruin of Dreisiein, consisting of two castles of the 13th century.
Another interesting excursion may be made from Barr to Ilohwald,
8^/4 M. to the S.E. (post-omnibus in summer; carr. 8-JO Ji). The road
leads by (2^/i 'M.)Andlau (Krone), a small town with a Romanesque *Abbey
Church of the 12th cent. , and then ascends the pleasant valley of the
Andlav. passing the ruins of Andlau and Speshurg on the right. — Hoh-
wald (2200 ft.; "Kuntz; "'Marschall) is one of the most frequented summer
resorts in the Vosges, and its wooded environs afford numerous pleasant
excursions, which are greatly facilitated by way-posts. Among the fa-
vourite points are Bellevue (1 hr.), ihe Neuntenstein (P/t hr.), and the Hoclt-
feld or Champ-du-Feu (2V4 hra.; 3590 ft.).

Soon after leaving Zabern the train reaches (68 M.) Steinhurg,
the junction of the line to Hagenau (p. 326). 87 M. Vendenheim.

93 M. Strassburg (Hotel National, Pfeiffer, at the station ; ViUe
de Paris, Angleterre, Maison-Rouge, Europe, etc.), the capital of the
German imperial territory Alsace-Lorraine, and the see of a Roman
Catholic bishop, with 135,000 inhab. (in 1871,85,654; V2 Rom.
Cath.), is situated on the 111, 2 M. from the Rhine, with which it is
connected by the Rhine-Marne Canal. In the centre of the city rises
its celebrated * Cathedral, a building in the Romanesque, Transition,
and Gothic styles (12-15th cent.), with an exquisite facade and a
lofty tower (465 ft. ; adm. to the platform 15 pf.). The Protestant
Church of St. Thomas, containing the tomb of Marshal Saxe (by
Pigalle), the Temple Neuf ov Neukirche, the Imperial Palace, the
University (in the extensive new quarter on the N.E. bank of the 111),
and the statues of Gutenberg (by David d'Angers) , Kleher, and
Lezay-Marnesia are among the other chief objects of interest. See
Baedeker's Rhine.

From Strassburg to Metz, see p. 135; to Rothau and St. Dii , see
pp. 831-329; to Belfort (Dijon, Lyons), see R. 43.

45. From Luneville to St. Die and Epinal.

Railway to St. DU, 3IV2 M., in IV2 hr. (fares 5 fr. 80, 3 fr. 95, 2 fr. oJc);
thence to Epinal, 38 M., in 13/4-2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 60c., 3 fr.). —
From Luneville to Epinal via Blainville-la-Grande, 38 M., Railway in 1^/4-
21/3 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 5c.); see pp. 324, 310.

Luneville , see p. 324. This line ascends the valley of the
Meurthe. 7 M. St. Clement , with a large manufactory of faience,
generally named after Luneville ; 10 M. Menil-Flin ; 12 M. Azerailtes.

151/2 M. Baccarat (Hotel du Pont) , a town with 6772 inhab.,
contains one of the largest Glass Works in France (no admission).
The handsome modern church is in the style of the 13th century.

328 Route 45. DONON. From Lunsville

A branch-line runs hence to the (9 M.) small industrial town of
Badonviller. — Diligence to (91/2 M.) liam'bertillers (p. 310). 2 fr.

Beyond (18 M.) Bertrichamps we see the Vosges to the left and
cross the Meurthe several times. 20 M. Thiaville. — 21 M. Baon-
I'Etape (Hotel des Halles), a small town, picturesquely situated at
the junction of the valleys of the Meurthe and the Plaine.

From Eaon-l'Etape to Schirmeck (the Donon), 23 M. Diligence,
starting about 7 a.m., to (14 M.) Raon-sur-Plaine in 21/2 hrs. (fare 21/4 fr.);
theivce in a hired conveyance or on foot. It is possible to make the ex-
cursion to the Donon from Raon-rEtape and return to the railway in
time to sleep at St. Die the same day. — The road ascends the left bank of
the Plain?., between two rows of wooded hills, b M. Celles ; 10 M. Allar-
mont. About 4 M. to the S.E. of (12 M.) Vexaincourt (Hotels) lies the pretty
little Lac de la Maix. 13 31. Luvigny. — 14 M. Raon-sur-Plaine (Coeval
Blanc), a village close to the German frontier, which our route crosses
2V2 M. farther on (custom-hduse). About 550 yds. farther we reach the
Plaieforme du Donon (2430 ft.; Hotel Velle'da, D. 3, S. 2fr.; Barth^s Inn),
a col to the S. of the mountain of that name, the top of which is reached
hence in 40 minutes.

The Donon (3313 ft.) is one of the chief summits of the Central Vosges,
rendered imposing by its isolation. It affords an extensive survey of the
surrounding mountains, of Alsace (on the W.), and of the hills and plain of
Lorraine (on the E.). The position of the chief mountains and villages
visible are given on two disks or 'indicators' on the summit. To the X.E.
is the Petit Donon (3016 ft.). Numerous Roman antiquities discovered in the
neighbourhood are kept in a small 'temple' on the summit of the Donon;
others are in the museum at Epinal (p. 313)

The road now descends in windings to (2V2 M.) Grandfontaine (Hotels),
which may also be reached by a shorter footpath, diverging to the right
as we leave the Plateforme du Donon. From Grandfontaine an omnibus
runs to the station of (2^/4 M.) Schirmeck (see p. 330).

Beyond Kaon-rEtape the valley of the Meurthe becomes a pictur-
esque ravine, 24 M. Etiral possesses a large paper-mill.

From Etival to Skxonks, 5V2 M., railway in 20-30 min. (fares 95, 70.
55c.). This short branch-line ascends the industrial valley of the JRabv-
deau, which contains numerous spinning, weaving, and other factories. —
4 M. Moyenmotiiier (Des Trois Jumeaux) , a large manufacturing; village,
with the church and other remains of an abbey, founded by St. Hydulphus
in the 7th century. — 5V2 M. Senones (Hotel Barth^lemy), a picturesquely
situated town with 4120 inhab., also sprang up round an ancient abbey,
founded about the same time by St. Gondcbert, Bishop of Sens. The abbey
buildings have been converted into a spinning and weaving mill. The
Church., in the Romanesque style, contains the tomb of Dom Calmet, Abbot
of Senones (1672-1757), with a" modern statue by Falguicre (lirst chapel to
the left). Senones was the residence of the princes of Sahn (now extinct),
and their Chateau (18th cent.) has been almost wholly de-troyed, with the
exception of a part now occupied by the Hdiel de Ville. — Senonea is 10 JI.
from St. Blaise., a station on the line from Saales to Strassburg (p. 330).

Beyond Etival the train crosses the Meurthe and skirts its left
bank. Near St. Die', to the right, rises the COte St. Martin (p. 329).

31 1/2 M. St. Die (1030 ft.; Hotel de la Poste ; du Coimmrce :
Continental, at the station"), a town with 21,400 inhab., occupies a
picturesque site on the left bank of the Meurthe , surrounded with
mountains. Its name is derived from St. Deodatus or Pieudonnc,
who founded a monastery here in the 6th cent., which afterwards
became a powerful collegiate establishment. St. Pii>' is still the seat
of a bishop. In 1757, after a destructive conflagration, the W. part

to SI. Die. ST. DIE. 45 Route. 329

of tlie town was rebuilt on a regular plan by Stanislaus Lesczinski,
then Duke of Lorraine. The rest of the town, however, is badly
laid out and meanly built. St. Die' carries on an extensive trade in
timber, and contains several weaving, hosiery, and other factories.

From the station we reach the centre of the town via the IJue
Gambetta and the Rue Thiers. To the left of the latter is the Hotel
de Ville, in the modern quarter (Rue Stanislas), containing a Museum
(in which the natural history collections are noteworthy) and an
extensive Public Library. In the adjoinig square is the Monum".nt
of Jules Ferry (1832-93), by Mercie; the statue of France is a por-
trait of Mm e. Ferry.

The Cathedra^ a little farther on, is an edifice of grey sandstone,
erected at different periods and partly Romanesque and partly Gothic
in style. To the N. is a fine *Cloister of the 15th cent., which con-
nects the cathedral with the so-called Petite Egllse.^ a Romanesque
building, perhaps of the 8th cent, (recently restored]. The cathedral
is adjoined on the right by the Bishop's Palace (17th cent.) and op-
posite is the Canons' House (1557), adorned with the heads of four
sages of antiquity.

A pleasant Park has been laid out on the right bank of the
Meurthe, near the bridge. ■ — The Promenade du Gratin, outside
the town, about 272 ^- *o ^^^ E- of the cathedral, commands a
beautiful view.

Anotlier good view is obtained from the Sapin Sec (2035 ft.), tlic
liigliest point of the Montagne d'Ormont, also to the E. of the town. Tlie
ascent may be made in 23/4-3 hrs. by the S. side (sign-posts), while the de-
scent may he made in 13/4-2 hrs. hy the ridge to the W.

To the W. of St. Die, heyond'thc railway, rises the Cote St. Martin
(2410 ft.), which is surmounted by a picturesque group of rocks, re-
sembling a ruined castle. A shady path leads in 3/4 hr. to the top, the
view from which is very extensive.

For longer excursions from St. Die, see R. 46.

r>eyond St. Die' the train continues to follow the valley of the
Meurthe, skirting the heights on the left bank of the river. 35 M.
Saulcy. — From (36'/2 M.) St. Leowird to Fraize by branch-railway
and thence over the Col du Eonhomme into Alsace (see p. 332).
Our line turns to theW., quits the valley of the Meurthe, and passes
through two short tunnels. — 46 M. La Chavelle.

48 M. Lavelini (Buvette). the junction for Gerardrner (see p. 334).
— Continuation of the line to Epinal., see R. 47.

46. Excursions into the Vosges from St. Die.

a. To Strassburg vik Saales.

5OV2M. DiLiGENCK 3 or 4 times daily from St. Die to (12V'^ M.) Scales
in 2V2hrs. (fare 2V2 fr.). — Ratlwat from Saales to (38 M. Strassburg in
3'/2 hrs. (fares 4 J/ 90, 3 J/ 30, 2 J/ 10 pf.).

St. 7)k', see p. 328. The road leads to the S.E. from the Rue
Gambetta, not far from the station, a'id crosses the Meurthe at (2M.)

330 Route dC. SCHIRMECK-VORBRUCK. Excursions

Ste. Marguerite. Farther on it diverges to the left from the road to
Markirch (p. 331) and ascends the wide valley of the Fave^ passing
Remoneix^ Vanifosse ^ and Neuvillers. Beyond the long village of
(8 M.) Provencheres (Inn) we again turn to the left, leaving the road
to Weilerthal (p. 331) on the right, and ascend through a side-
valley to the German frontier. To the right rises the Voyemont
(2650 ft.), with the 'Roches des Fe'es'.

From (127-2 ^^■) Saales (Hot. du Commerce), the first German
(Alsatian) village, with the custom-house, the railway descends into
the industrial valley of the Bruche or Breusch, where French is
spoken as far as TJrmatt (see below). — 14 M. Bourg -Bruche.

TMs is tlie usual starting-point for an ascent CIV2 hr.) of the Climont
(3216 ft.), tlie third highest summit of the Central Vosges, commanding an
extensive view, especially fine in the direction of St. Die. The route leads
to the E. and then to the S.E., passing UEvreuil and the farm-house of Schlag.

18 M. St-Blaise-Poutay (to Senones, see p. 328). 19 V2 M. Vrbach,
Fr. Fouday (Poste), belongs, like Rothau and five other villages, to
the ancient lordship of Stelnthal, Fr. Ban de la Roche.

221/2 ^^- Rothau (Deux Clefs), a pleasant-looking and busy vil-
lage on the Bruche, is a convenient centre for several interesting
excursions (see Baedekers Rhine).

231/2 M. Schirmeck-Vorbruck (1084 ft. ; Hotel de France, in Vor-
bruck), two busy little places separated by the Breusch. Vorbruck
(Fr. La-Broque\ with the railway-station, is on the left bank. A
road to Raon-1'Etape via the Donon (p. 32S) diverges here. From
Schirmeck the Donon may be ascended in 21/2-3 hrs.

At (29 M.) TJrmatt (Hotel du Gai-Touriste) the French language
gives place to the German.

Fkom Urmatt to Nikder-Haslack and tiik Valley of the Nideck,
an interesting excursion of 2 hrs., which maybe prolonged to theSchnee-
hcrg and Wangenhurg (272 hrs.; see p. 32ti). — Nieder-Haslach, on Iho
Haxlach, is/i II. to the X. of I'rmatt station (omnibus), has a large and
fine Gothic church, a relic of the abbey of St. Florian. Its stained-glass
-^vindows, of the i4th cent., are very fine. — Beyond Xieder-Haslach the
road ascends to (1 M.) Ober-IIaslach , above which the valley is very pic-
lurcsiiue. About 2^/2 M. farther on, near the fifth saw-mill, to the right,
opens the beautiful pine-clad *Valley of the Nideck, enclosed by rocks of
porphyry, which vies with the finest scenery of the Black Forest. At the
(1 M.) upper end of the valley the Nideck forms a waterfall, SO ft. in
height. High above it stands the square tower of the Castle of Nideck, to
which a zigzag path ascends to the right. The Schneeberg (p. 3'i6) is farther
on in the same direction.

r)eyond Urmatt the train affords a view, to the right, of the Castle
of Girbaden (see below"). 33 M. Heiligenberg.

Hciligenberg is the most convenient starting-point for a visit to Schloss
Girbaden (1870 ft.), one of the oldest and most extensive fortresses in
Alsace, said once to have possessed 14 gates and 14 courtyards, and still
an imposing ruin. It was probably built in the early part of the 13th
century. We follow the line of rails for some yards to the S.W., then
cross them, and follow a path (guide-post) ascending to the right by the
edge of the wood. This leads past the foresters house of Girbaden to the
ruins in 1^/4 hr. The descent may be made to (IV4 hr.) Gressweiler (p. 331).
to (2 hrs.) Rosheim (p. 320), or to (2V2 hrs.) Ober-Ehnheim (p. 326).

into the Vosges. MARKIRCH. 46. Route. 331

The railway now quits the mountains. 35 M. Gressweiler ;
87 '/2 M. Mutzig (Post), a small town; 3cSY2 M. Molsheim., also a
station on the line from Zahern to Schlettstadt (p. 326). — Several
unimportant stations.

5072 M. Strassburg^ sec p. 327,

b. From St. Die to Schlettstadt via, Markirch.

28V2 M. Diligence 2 or 4 times daily from St. Die to (15 M.) Markirch
in 4 Lrs. (fare 4 fr., coupe 4V2 fr.). — Railway from Markirch to (IS'/z M.)
Schlettstadt in 50 min. (fares 1 J'^ SO, 1 Ji 20. 75 pf.)-

Beyond (2 M.) Ste. Marguerite (see p. 330) our road diverges to
the right from that to Rothau and leads towards the E. to (672 ^^-^
Raves, (J^/2 M^-) 6 emaing outte , and (9 M.) Wissemhach. About
2'/2 M- farther it crosses the frontier and the ridge of the Yosges,
and begins to descend into the pretty wooded valley of the Leber
or Li.epvrette.

151/2 M. Markirch, Fr. Ste. Marie-aux- Mines ((I'rand Hotel;
Hotel du Commerce), the capital of the valley, with 11,600 inhab.,
has considerable wool and cotton factories. The once productive
silver-mines have been long exhausted.

From Markircli a road leads over the Col des Bagenelles (Inn) to (10 BI.) the
Bonhomme (p. 332). The ascent of the Bressoir (p. 332) may he made from
Markirch in about 31/4 hrs., either from this road or from the parallel rood
in the Rauenthal or ValUe du Faunoux, via. the farm of (2V2 hrs.) Heycot.

17'/2 M. St. Kreuz or Ste. Croix- aux- Mines. From (20 M.) Le-
herau we may ascend the Hohen-Konigsburg (see below) in 274 hrs.
23 M. Wanzel, whence a good footpath (sign-posts) ascends to the
(2 hrs.) Hohen-Konigsburg. — 25 M. Weilerthal (Inn) lies at the
entrance of the valley ascending to the left to (672 M.) Weiler
(branch-line). x\bove it, to the left, rises the ruin of Frankenhurg.

From Weilerthal a good road ascends in windings through woods to
the (8 M.) Hohen-Konigshurg. About 20 min. below the top is a Hotel.
Short-cuts, indicated by way-posts, enable the pedestrian to complete the
ascent in 21/2 hrs. — The *Hohen-K6nigsburg, 1680 ft. above the sca-levcl,
is, after Girbaden (p. 330), the largest castle in Alsace. Its huge walls of
sandstone, towering above the dark-green chestnut wood, are strikingly
picturesque. It was bombarded and burned by the Swedes in the Thirty
Years' War, but the ruins are still in tolerable preservation. The plat-
form of the E. tower commands an extensive *View. The descent may
be made to Wanzell (see above), to Kestenholz (see below), or to the S.
to (23/4 hrs.) Rappoltsweiler (p. 323).

2572 M. Kestenholz (Badhotel), a place with 3800 inhab. and
two (cold) mineral springs.

A road leads from Kestenholz to (1 M.) Kinzheim, an ancient village,
commanded by a castle of the same name, a ruin since the Thirty Years'
War. The Hohen-Konigsburg may be ascended hence in 2 hrs. — The
direct route from Kestenholz to the Hohen-Konigsburg takes IV2 hr. —
To the N. of Kestenholz, on the other side of the valley, are the ruined
castles of Ramstein and Ortenburg.

We now leave the mountainous district and join the Zabern and
Strassburg lines. — 2872 M. Schlettstadt, see p. 323.

332 Route 46. COL DU BONHOMME. Exmirsion^

c. From St. Die to Colmar vi^ Fraize, the Col du Bonhomme,
and Schnierlach.

Railway to (10 M.) Fraite in 40-50 min. (fares 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 20, 80 c).
— Road from Fraize to Schnierlach, 12 M. (short-cuts for walkers); public
conveyance dailv at 11 a.m. in SV-' lirs. — Steam Tramway from Schnier-
lach to (121/2 M.') Colmar in IV2 hr. (fares 1 Jf 30, 90 pf.).

From St. Die to (5 M.) St. Leonard, see p. 329. The brancli-
liue to Fraize continues to follow the valley of the Meurthe. — 6 M.
Anould. Route hence to Gerardmer, see p, 336.

10 M. Fraize (Hot. de la Paste; de la Gare) is a small town of
3900 inhabitants.

The road to Schnierlach leads to the right from the station. —
11 M. (from St. Die) Plainfaing (1715 ft.), a large village (5322
inhab.) with a paper-mill and a weaving-factory. The road now
quits the valley, which here bends to the S.

Fkom Platnfaixg to Le Valtin and the Schlucht. From Plainfaing
we may reach the (lO'/i M.) Schlucht in 31/2 hrs. through the Valine de
Haheaurupt or du Valtin, the upper valley of the Meurthe, a picturesque
ravine, enlivened with numerous spinning, weaving, and saw mills. The
carriage -road passes NoirgouUe, La Truche., Habeaurupt , and (5'/2 31-)
Le Budlin (2300 ft.), about s/j M. to the left of which is the picturesque
Fall of the Rudlin (way-post). [From Le Rudlin we may proceed to the
N., via the col of Lotic'ipa^h (3220 ft.; Inn), and then to the E., through
wood, to dV-' hr.) the Wei^se See (p. 333).] About IV2 M. beyond Le Rudlin
we reach Le Valtin (2478 ft.; Inn), a village where we quit the road
(which leads to the right to Ge'rardmer, 8 M. ; see p. 334) and ascend Ihc
valley on foot. At (1/2 hr.) the second bridge we follow the fatiguing path
to Ihe left, which ascends through wood to (3/4 hr.) the Schlucht (p. 337).

Beyond Plainfaing the road, which is here unattractive, ascends
ill windings to (5 M.) the Col du Bonhomme. Pedestrians shorten
this distance by one-half by turning to the right at the first curve,
reaching the top in l^/a lif-

The (16 M.) Col du Bonhomme (3084 ft.), one of the most fre-
quented passes of the Vosges, both in ancient and modern days, is
now the frontier of Alsace (custom-house). The road makes another
wide detour to tlie right, where pedestrians may save 1 M. by turning
to the left at the bend. — 19 M. Diedolshnusen, Fr. Lc Bonhomme
(Hotel des Lacs; Cheval lUanc), situated on the Bcchine^ a tribu-
tary of the Weiss. Eoute to Markirch (and the l>ressoir), see below.

A good path leads hence to the S. to (IV2 hr.) the ]Veis'<o See. (n. 338).
From the Col du Bonhomme we reach the lake direct in I1/2 hr. by the
Chemin des Sapins., which turns to the right and after 50 min. joins the
path from Le Rudlin to Louchpach (see above).

The Colmar road descends the valley of the Be'chine, and then
that of the Weiss, which receives the Be'chine. As far as Ilachi-
]nette French is still the prevailing language.

22 m. Schnierlach, Fr. La Poutroije (Paste; Cauranne), is a
cotton-making place with weaving and spinning mills.

The Bressoir, Br^:oiiard, or Briischbiicl-el (4040 ft.), commands a most
extensive view over hill and plain, including the Alps in clear weather.
It may be ascended from Schnierlach in 3 hrs. We retrace our steps in
the direction of the Bonhomme as far as the lirst bend, and then ascend

into the Vosges. KAYSERSBERG. 46. Route. 333

towards (lie iNT. , via tlie Col de Chdmont and the farm-house of Barlin.
We may descend on the N., via the farm oi Heycot^ to Markirch (p. 331), or
on the S.E. to Urhach (see below). The ascent is often made from Markirch.

The steam-tramway follows the line of the road. 23 M. Hachi-
mette or Escheimer^ at the confluence of the Be'chine and the "Weiss.

Hachimette is the starting-point for a visit to the (2V'2-3 hrs.) IVeisse
See and Schwurze See (see p. 33S), the road to which passes Urbeis or Orbey
(Croix dfOr; Cornelius)^ an industrial village, 2V4 M. to the S.W., in the
valley of the Weiss (omn.). A way-post then indicates the routes to the
two lakes, which are respectively b^j-i M. and 4 M. farther on. The path
to the Weisse See turns to the left at a cross, a little farther on, and as-
cends over the heights on the right bank of the Weiss. The road to the
Schwarze See, which is at first suitable for carriages, passes the old Cister-
cian abbey of Paris. ;

24 M. Urbach or Freland^ the railway-station for the village of
this name, which lies IY2M. to the N.W. The Bressoir (p. 332)
may be ascended from the village in 21/2 l^i'S- — 25 M. Aispach.
The tramway halts on the W. side of Kaysersherg and then skirts
the S. side of the town.

27 M. Kaysersherg (Krone), an interesting old town, is com-
manded by the ruins of the Kalserbury. The Town Hall dates from
1604 and the Church from the 12th century. Several quaint houses
of the 15-16th cent, also remain. For details, see Baedeker s Rhine.

28 M. Kienzheim; 2S^/2M. Siyolsheirn; 22M. Amrntrscliweier. —
34 M. Colrnar^ see p. 323.

47. Excursions into the Vosges from Epinal.
a. From Epinal to the Schlucht via Gerardmer.

42 M. — Railway to (33 21.) G&rar diner in 13/4-2V4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 95 c,
4 fr., 2 fr. 60 c). — Diligenck thence at 9.30 to (9 M.) the Schlucbt in
3 hrs. (fare 3 fr., return-fare 5 fr.). Descent to Gerardmer in V/2 hr. (2 fr.J.
The vehicles leave the Schlucht for Gerardmer at 3.30 p.m. Travellers,
however, cannot count upon a place for the Schlucht alone, as a pre-
ference is given to those who book through to Munster or Gerardmer. —
Tramway from Gerardmer to Betournemer, see p. 335 ; cable-railway from
Retournemer, see p. 336.

Epinal, see p. 312. — The train follows the Aillevillers line for
some distance, then diverges to the left, and continues to ascend the
picturesque valley of the Moselle. — 4 M. Dinoze. To the left are
fortified heights. The train crosses a viaduct and reaches (7'/2 ^^0
Arches (Buffet), the junction of a line to Remiremont and Bussang
(see p. 340). Farther on, to the right, is the Fort de la Savonnerie.
Our line now crosses the Moselle and runs to the N.E. up the pretty
valley of the Vologne. — 10 M. Jarmenil, at the confluence of the
two rivers. About 72 M- below, the Moselle forms the fall of Saut-
Broc. — 1272 M. Docelles-Chenimenil. Docelles, to the right, lies
at the mouth of the valley of the Barha, an affluent of which, beyond
the village of (4'/2 M.) Barba, forms the Cascade du Tendon, one of
the finest waterfalls in the Vosges, 100-120 ft. high.

Beyond (18 M.) Laval the train quits the Vologne, describes a

334 Route 47. VALLEE DE GRANGES. Excursions

wide curve, passes througli a short tunnel, and regains the river
near (19^2 M-) Bruyeres (Ange; de la Renaissance), a small town,
picturesquely situated to the left, among wooded hills. Line to
Gerbe'viller, see p. 324.

22 M. Lavelive (Buvette), the junction of the line to St. Die (see
p. 329). We continue to follow the valley of the Vologne. Views to
the left. Beyond (257-2 M.) Granges (Hotel & Cafe' de Lorraine) we
enter the romantic Vallee de Granges (see below). Views still to
the left.

31 M. Kichompre (2060 ft. ; Hotel de la Vologne, at the station),
a moderii industrial village, with a large cloth -factory , lies at the
confluence of the Vologne with the Jamagne, the outlet of the
Lake of Gerardmer.

Pedestrians wlio make Kichomprc tlie starting-point for a visit to tlic
Vallee de Granges, instead of Gerardmer, spare themselves 2 M. of an
uninteresting and shadeless road (see below). The *Vallee de Granges,
one of the finest points in the district, is a wild and picturesque deflle,
4 M. in length, throuuh which the Vologne flows in a tortuous and capri-
cious course, hemmed in by rocky and wooded banks. A charming walk
or drive may be enjoyed on the right bank of the Vologne, especially
upstream. Numerous finger-posts indicate the way to various points of
view, etc., which may be disrcjiarded by the passing tourist. Leaving the
path to the Basse de TOurs (see below) to the left, we proceed from the
station to (V2 M.) the Pont AJaric- Louise, which crosses to the road from
Kichompre to Gerardmer. About V'-^ M. farther on is the Pont des Fdes, a
picturesque point, which may also be taken on the route to Gerardmer
via the Schlucht. In 10-15 min. more we reach the Pont de Vologne and
the Saut des Cuves , which, however, we may visit on our way to the
Schlucht (see p. 336). — From the Pont des Fees a footbath ascends to
the N., through the romantic Gorge des Eoitelets, to the Grange de Chenil.
Thence we may descend to the S.E. to (IV2 hr.) Kichompre, through the
Basse de fOnrs, a wild and singular defile, strewn with blocks of granite,
through which it is at some points difficult to lind a way. Some circum-
spection should be exercised in walking, as the rocks are slippery and the
soft green moss often hides unsuspected edges and corners. — The chief
point of interest below Kichompre is (2/4 31.) the 'glaciere\ or ice-cavern,
of Kertoff, a chaos of rocks resembling the Basse de TOurs, where ice
may be found even in summer. We may return by a road leading along
the heights of the left bank to (3V2 M.) Gerardmer. It passes the Havt
de la Ilaie-Griselle, a fine point of view not far from Kichompre, from
which it may also be reached direct.

Beyond Kichompre the railway skirts the Jamagne towards the S.

33 M. Gerardmer. — Hotels. Geand Hotel du Lac, de'j. 3, D. 4 fr. ;
Bkau-Rivage, both near the lake; de la Poste, Place du Tilleul, d^j. 81/2,
D. 4 fr., incl. wine; des Vosges, to the left, recommended to tourists,
R. 2, dej. or D. 3 fr., incl. wine; <.'HOLl^, at the railway-station, pes Bains,
dej. at these 3, D. 3'/2 fr., incl. wine; Defkaxoux, less pretending. Rooms
should invariably be engaged beforehand in summer. The chief hotels
are closed in winter. — Hydropathic Establishment, in the Boulevard du
Lac. — Baths. Bains du Lac (25 c.), to the X. of rhe town.

Cafes. At tbe Holel des Vosges and mtel ChoU ; Gafi du Boulevard,
near the station; Paxion, Place Albert-Ferry; des Canotiers, on the lake.

Carriages with one horse (2 pers.) 12-15 fr., with two horses (4 pers.)
20-25 fr. per day; to the Schlucht and back 15 or 20 fr. ; round the lake
6 or 10 fr. ; to the Saut des Cuves and the Vallie de Granges 9 or 15 fr. ;
to I-a Bresse or Cornimont 15 or 25 fr. ; etc., see the tariff.

Steam Tramway to (7 M.) Retcurucmer (p. 33G), hourly in summer, in

into the Vosges. Gl&KAEDMER. 47. Route. 335

50 min. (fare 90 c, or 30 c. per section). Tlie cars start near the railway
station and run viil the Scmt des Cuves (p. 336) and Longemer (p. 336). —
Another line is projected to (18 M.) Bemiremont (p. 340), via the valley of
Ranaberchamp. — Omnil^us daily in summer via (6 M.) £e Tholy to (ISV'iM.)
St. Ami (p. 343), in 21/2 hra. (fare 2'/2 fr.) — To the Schlucht and Mun-
ster, see pp. 336-339.

Gerardmer (final r silent; 2200 ft.), a town of 8800 Inhab.,
prettily situated on the lake of the same name, is the favourite
summer-resort on the French side of the Vosges and a good start-
ing-point for numerous charming excursions. It possesses several
large weaving-factories and hleaching-works, and carries on a con-
siderable traffic in the 'Ge'rome' cheeses made in the district. The
origin of the town is ascribed to Gerard of Alsace, who built a tower
on the bank of this lake ('mer') about 1070. In the middle of the
market-place stands a fine lime-tree, oOO years old, which is 100 ft.
high and 19 ft. in circumference a yard above the ground.

The Lake of Gerardmer (2165 ft.), which lies to the W. of the
town, surrounded by verdant hills with wooded tops, is nearly oval
in shape, measuring 1^2 M. in length and '/2 M. in width. Its
superficial area is 285 acres, and its greatest depth 118 ft. Walkers
can make the circuit of the lake in lY2l^i"'j and boats may be hired for
1-1 72^- per hour. The banks are nearly destitute of shade and the
private gardens on the S. bank make frequent detours necessary.

Walks and Excl-jisions. ^Numerous pleasant walks and excursioiis
may be taken from Gerardmer, but almost each of them includes a stretch
of shadeless and unattractive highroad, which pedestrians should arrange
to avoid when possible. Fingerposts have been liberally supplied by the
Club Alpin Francais (C. A. F.). For the Walk round the Lake^ see above;
the ValUe de Granges, see p. 334; the Saut des Cuves, the lakes of Lon-
gemer s.nA Retourneiner, and the Schlucht, see pp.336, 337. — The Vallee de
Ramberchamp, to the S. of Lake Gerardmer, is a favourite point for a
walk. The first path to the left, on the bank of the lake, leads to (Va br.)
a point, indicated by a finger-post, where a good echo may be awakened.
About 20 min. farther on we reach a small gorge, with the waterfall called
Saut de la Bourrique. About 3/4 BI. to the right is the Haut de la Charine
(3230 ft.), a fine point of view, whence we may return by a somewhat
longer, but equally picturesque route, along the heights on the W. side of
the valley. The whole excursion takes about 3 hrs. — On the S.W. side
of the lake (there and back IV2 hr.) grows a Giant Fir, 160 ft. high. —
To the Vierge de la Creuse, see p. 3:JG. — A visit should also be paid to
the picturesque ravine of the Basse des Rupts (2-2V2 hrs. there and back).
We follow the path diverging to the right, beyond the church, from the
route to the Schlucht. At the top we again turn to the right and reach
the Biazot (2950 ft.), a commanding point of view. We may return either
by the heights on the left bank or by those on the right bank. By the
former we pass the Tete da Costet (2910 ft.), a good view-point; by the
latter, the longer route, we pass the Gouttes-Ridos, the view from which
is held to be even finer than that from the Biazot.

From Geeakdmer to La Bresse, 8 M. by road (carr. 15 or 25 fr.. via
Retournemer 18 or 30 fr.). The pedestrian route takes about 2V2 hrs. The
Road, which is unattractive, is the prolongation of the main street to
the S.W., turning to the S. on this side of the Vallee de Ramberchamp.
After 21/2 M. it diverges to the left from the road to C^h M.) Rochesson
and (11 M.) Vagney (p. 343). It then ascends the Valley of the Creuse- Goutte,
watered by the Bouchot, which forms a cascade to the right (3^2 31. from
Gerardmer). Farther on we cross the (SVs M.) Col de la Grosse-Fierre and
descend to the S.W., along the right bank of the Moselotte, to La Bresse

336 Route 47. LAG DE LONGEMER. Excursions

(p. 343). — The Pedestrian Route aacends directly from the market-
place, through a valley, to the (i/s hr.) Vierge de la Greuse, a rock with
a rude painting of the Madonna. It then joins the road, hut quits it again
a little farther on, though it also ascends the valley of the Creuse-Goutte
and passes the Col de la Grosse-Pierre (see p. 3355 finger-posts).

The Route froh Gfrardmeii to the Schlucht and to Mon-
ster, which, is better for driving than walking (omn., etc., see p. 335),
at first follows the highroad running to the N.E., towards the valley
of the Vologne. Near (21/4 M.) the Pont de Vologne is the Theatre
du Peuple (to the right), an old sand-pit converted into an open-air
theatre. Above the bridge is the '-^'Saut des Caves, a triple fall, or
rather a series of picturesque rapids, formed by the Vologne (time
to visit it allowed by the omnibus). Route hence to the Valie'e de
Granges, see p. 334. The road ascending to the N. leads to St. Die
via the (1 1/2 M.) Col de Martimpre (2625 ft.), the village of (4V2 M.)
Gerbepal, and (8 M.) Anould (p. 332).

From the bridge the road leads to the right through the valley.
To the left (3/4 M.) is a path ascending to Le Valtin (8 M. from
Ge'rardmer; route to Le Rudlin and the Weisse See, see p. 332).
About 3/4 M. farther on (4 M. from Ge'rardmer) the road to the lakes
of Longemer and Retournemer diverges to the right.

The lakes of Longejier and Retournejiek, which lie amid wooded
hills at the end of the valley, respectively 41/2 and 7 M. from Gerardmer,
are usually visited thence hy tramway (p. 334), and when the cahle-railway
is finished, this will he the most convenient route from Gtrardmer 1u
the Schlucht. A good view of the lakes is obtained from the road ascend-
ing to the Schlucht, and hurried travellers may dispense with a nearer
acquaintance. — The Lac de Longemer (24^0 ft.), so called on account of
its elongated form, is about IV4 M. long and 1/4 M. wide. The owner of
the house at the lower end of the lake forbids the transit from one bank
to the other at that point. — The Lac de Retournemer (2550 ft.), lV-» 31.
beyond the other, is only 330 yds. long by 220 yds. wide, but it is much
the more picturesque of the two. Its name is derived from the fact that
the valley of the Vologne just beyond closes in a sort of amphitheatre
which apparently forbids farther progress. The Vologne forms a graceful
waterfall as it issues from the lake. Refreshments and lodging may be
obtained at the foresters house on the bank, at the tramway-terminus.
A steep path ('Chemin des Dames') ascends from near this point to the
Bresse road (p. 343; for the Schlucht), which it reaches about 550 yds.
from Le Collet and at the beginning of another steep path leading to the
(IV3 M.) Hoheneck (p. 337). The ascent to the Schlucht from this point
takes 11/3 hr. ; to the Hoheneck (p. 337) I3/4 hr. (way-posts).

The road now ascends through the Foret de la Brande, on the
slope of the hill of that name (3700 ft.), which rises to the N.E. of
the lakes; good views of the lakes are obtained through clearings to
the right. AVe then pass by a short tunnel below the (6 M.) Roche du
Diable, the top of which commands an extensive view (short halt
made here by the omnibus). A still finer view of the valley and lakes
is obtained l'/4 M. farther on (beyond the 12th kilometre-stone), —
The upper terminus of the cable-railway (see above) is about 550 yds .
farther on.

8 M. (18 Kil.) Le Collet (3680 ft.), with the source of the Vologne
to the right and that of the Meurlhe to the left. To the right diverge

into the Vosges. SCHLUCHT. 47. Route. 337

the paths to the lakes (p. 338), to La Bresse (p. 338), and to the
Hoheneck (see below).

91/2 M. The *Sclilucht, Fr. Col de la Schluchi (3775 ft.), a
picturesque mountain-pass between the valley of Gerardmer and
the valley of Miinster, forms the boundary between Germany and
France. The large Hotel de la Schlucht (R. 2-8, D. at 11.30 «fe 1 o'cl.
4, at 7 o'cl. 31/2 fr.) is on the French side. The Chaume de Mont-
hoeuf^ to the right, Y2 M- before the hotel, is a rustic restaurant (in-
expensive). Just beyond the frontier are a German police-station
and the Chalet Hartmann, the old hotel (now closed).

The differences between the E. and W., the German and French sides
of the Vosges, are well exemplified in the contrast offei'ed to the valley of
Gerardmer by the rocky and wooded, but waterless Miinsterthal (p. 339).
The summits on the E. are higher, the slopes more abrupt. The climate
and vegetation also differ. Less rain falls in the Alsatian valleys, and the
vine, which does not grow on the French side, is successfully cultivated in
those to the S. Their political situation and the great highways which
pass them have from time immemorial combined to lend an importance
to the places on the Rhenish slopes which has been denied to the less
accessible places on the W., hidden among the long lateral ramifications
of the range. The numerous ruined castles of Alsace also lend an addi-
tional attraction to the German side of the Vosges.

No tourist should end his journey in this direction at the Schlucht;
but those who are unable to explore the Alsatian side of the Vosges
should at least go on to the first bend of the road beyond the Schlucht
or to the Hotel Altenberg (p. 339), where they obtain a fine view of
the valley under a new aspect, with Miinster in the background.
The view from the Roche de la Source (see below) and the ascent of
the (20 min.) Kruppenfels (4120 ft.) is also specially recommended
to those who do not visit the Hoheneck or the Weisse See.

Continuation of the route to Miinster, see p. 339. To Fraize via Le
Valtin, see p. 83'2; to La Bresse, see p. 838; to Girardmer via the Lakes
(31/2 hrs.), see pp. 336. 338; to the Lac de Retournetner via the Roche du
Liable (2 hrs.), see p. 336.

From the Schlucht to the Hoheneck, an easy and pleasant ascent
of I-IV4 hr. by a path entirely on French soil marked out by way-posts
and boundary-stones (guide unnecessary). The German path begins beyond
the hotel. We ascend at first through wood, starting opposite the hotel.
The 0/4 hr.) Roche de la Source, to the left, commands a splendid "View of
the Miinsterthal. Farther on we traverse ^Chaumes\ or pastures, and see
several of the '■ Marcaireries\ or dairies, in which the highly-valued cheese
of the district is made. The *Hoheneck (4480 ft.), the highest of the Vos^ges
Mts. after the Grosse Belchen (p. 342) , and more centrally situated,
affords a beaaitiful and extensive *View. The view extends far beyond
the Vosges Bits., embracing the plain of the Rhine as far as the Black
Forest, the Jura and the Alps towards the S., and the French Department
of the Vosges towards the W. In the foreground towards the E. is the
beautiful Bl iinsterthal, towards the W. the valley of Gerardmer with the
Retournemer and Longemer lakes. — Those who wish to return to Gerard-
mer without going back to the Schlucht diverge to the left about halfway
down and descend to the Collet (p. 3'^6), situated about 200 yds. lower
down, whence a walk of IV4 hr. brings us to the Lac de Retournemer
(p. 33H). — Proceeding from the summit of the Hoheneck towards the E.,
we reach by a stony path (IV2 M.) finger-post indicating the way (left)
to (2^4 hrs.) Miinster, and V2 M. farther on. another pointing towards the
left to Miihlbach (and Metzeral, see p. 340), and towards the right to (3 M.)

Baedeker'8 Northern France. 3rd Edit. 22

338 Route 47. WEISSE SEE. Excursions

the Fisehiddle, a small lake in a rom-antic situation. From the Fischbodle
to Metzeral, IV2 hr.

Fkom the Schlucht to the Weisse See (Bonhomme, Urbeis, etc.), 9 M
(3V2 hrs.). The picturesque and easy path runs along the crest of the
range called Les Hautes Ghaumes, which forms the boundary between Alsace
and Lorraine and affords fine views in both directions. Except at the
beginning and end of the route, the path is comparatively level. — At firsi
our route coincides with that to the Kruppenfels. After about 1 hr. we
cross a path leading from Le Valtin to Sulzern (p. 339). The Roche du
Tanet (4252 ft.), 10 min. farther on, at the boundary-stone Is^o. 2800, com-
mands an extensive view. To the left lies the farm of the same name.
To the right, near the boundary-stone No. 2791, lies the Daren-See, Lac
Vert ^ or Lac de Soullzeren , a small and picturesque mountain-lake, the
water of which is used for various industrial establishments. In 1 hr. after
leaving the Roche du Tanet we reach (boundary-stone Is^o. 2784) the Gazon
de Faing (4275 ft.) , where we have a view of the tiny Lac Tout-Blanc or
Forellenweiher. About V* hr. farther, at Hautes Ghaumes (stone No. 2780),
a path diverging on the right leads in a few minutes to a point command-
ing a view of the Schwarze See, or Lac Noir (3140 ft.), the appearance of
which now scarcely justifies its name. It lies only 3/4 m. to the S. of the
Weisse See, but is separated from it by the huge granitic mass of the
Reisherg; and if we descend to the bank of the Schwarze See we add at
least 3/4 hr. to the walk between the two lakes. Returning, however, to
the main path along the crest, we pass (to the right) the point called
Chateau du Lac Noir, affording a view of both the lakes, and soon reach
the final descent to the Weisse See, in sight of the -'Hdtel des Lues. —
The Weisse See, or Lac Blanc (3450 ft.), which derives its name from the
quartz at the bottom, is about 3 M. in circumference; it is bounded on
two sides by lofty precipices, and on a third by huge masses of granite
piled together. It is evident that, like the other lakes above mentioned,
it occupies the bed of a former glacier. The Weisse See is kept full by
embankments, and the surplus water is drawn off for industrial purposes.
The natural discharge of the two lakes forms the Weiss. — We may now
descend to the floor of the valley via Urheis (p. 333) and go on thence to
Colmar (p. 323). Those returning to the Schlucht may make the detour
by the Schwarze See (see above). Route to Le Rudlin, see p. 332; to the
Bonhomme, see p. 332.

Fkom the Schlucht to La Bresse. — 1. By the Road, 91/2 M. (3V2 hrs.'
walk). We follow the road to Gerardmer as far as (IVs M.) the Collet
(p. 336) and then turn to the left in the direction of the Lac de Retournemer,
which is IV4 M. from this point by the footpath and nearly 8 M. by road.
At (3 M.) the Col des Feignes-sous-Vologne (2770 ft.) the road forks", both
branches, however, leading to La Bresse. The branch to the right, V2 M.
longer than the other, passes the small Lac de Lispach (2970 ft.) and de-
scends the valley of the Moselotte (see below). The road to the left follows
the valley of the Vologne.^ an affluent of the Moselotte, which must not
be confounded with the torrent of the same name near Gerardmer. —
53/4 M. Footpath to the Lac de Blanchemer (see below), a visit to which
makes a digression of 1 hr. — 71/2 M. Bridge of the road to the Col de
Bramont (p. 343). — 9 M. Footpath to the Lac des Corbeaux (see p. 339).
— 9y2 M. La Bresse, see p. 3i3.

2. Via the Hoheneck, i^f^^'^/t hrs. according to the route chosen after
the ascent of the Hoheneck (1-1 V4 lir.) and descent on the S. side O/2 hr.
more), see p. 337. The shortest route leads to the right from the frontier,
passes (20 min.) the chalet of Schmargult, turns to the left, again (1/2 hr.)
turns to the left, and reaches (10 min.) the Lac de Blanchemer (3445 ft.),
a small and picturesque lake on the W. slope of the Rothenbachkopf
(p. 339). Route thence, along the Vologne, see above.

The longer route from (IV2-IV4 hr.) the S. base of the Hoheneck (sec
above) follows the frontier, more or less closely, for about 2 hrs. After
10 min. we reach the Fontaine de la Buchesse, named in honour of Mario
de Gonzaga, wife of Henri II of Lorraine (1622). We then skirt the
Haul des Fits (4326 ft.; to the right) to (35 min.) the boundary-stone 2876,

into the Vosgea. MUNSTER. 47. Route. 339

beyond whicli we skirt the Rothenbachkopf and obtain- a view (to the right)
of the Lac de Blanchemer (p, 338). The path then turns to the left (comp.
Map, p. 332) and ascends to (35 min.) the top of the Rothenbachkopf
(4260 ft.), also called Reinkopf, which commands an extensive view, stretch-
ing from the Donon to the Ballon d'Alsace and the Black Forest. A little
to the S. rises another Reinkopf (4327 ft.), also sometimes called the
Rothenbachkopf. We now descend along the frontier to (1/4 hr.) stone 2896,
then diverge to the right, and reach (25 min.) the tiny Lac Marchet or
Machais (2'J20 ft.). To the right diverges a footpath, which leads to La
Bresse in IV2 hr. A little beyond the lake we join the road from Wesser-
ling (p. 342) to La Bresse and follow it to (40 min.) the Col de Bramont
(2920 ft.). Hence to La Bresse by road, see p. 343. An old timber-slide
ascends to the right from the Col to (80 min.) the Haut de la Vierge
(3540 ft.), whence we proceed in a straight direction to (V2 hr.) the Lac des
Corbeaux (2950 ft.), 500 yds. long and 250 yds. wide,' romantically situated
among lofty rocks and surrounded by sombre pines. Finally we descend
along the left bank of the discharge of this lake to (1 hr.) La Bresse (p. 343).

b. From Epinal to Colmar vi^ the Schlucht and Miinster.

65 M. — Railway to (33 M.) Gerardmer (p. 333); thence Diligence in
summer to (20 M.) Miinster in 73/4 hrs., including a halt of about 3 hrs. at
the Schlucht (fare 5 fr., down 51/2 fr.); and finally Railway in ^/t hr. from
Miinster to (12 M.) Colmar (fares i Jf 60, i Jl 10, 65 pf.).

From Epinal to the (37 M.) Schlucht, see pp. 333-337. The first
part of the descent into the '''Miinster thai is very fine, and the whole
of the upper part of the road is cut through the granite rocks. About
1/2 M. after leaving the Schlucht we pass through a tunnel and reach
a bend of the road commanding a particularly fine view. [Pedestrians
here follow a by-road to the right, which brings them to Miinster in
about 2-2 '/2 hrs.] About 1 M. from the col is the large and hand-
some new *H6tel Altenherg (pens, from 12'/2fr.), with restaurant.
Farther on, the main road descends in windings, the last of which,
2'/2 M. long, advances the traveller little more than ^2 ^^' i^i a
direct line. This curve ends in the floor of the valley, near Stoss-
weier (see below). — 5'/2M. (15 M. from Gerardmer) Im Eck, with
the German custom-house. — 6^4 M. Inset, a hamlet, whence a road
leads ^to Urbeis (p. 333) and a path to the Daren-See (p. 338). —
From (71/2 M-) Sulzern another omnibus runs to Miinster. — 9 M.
Stossweier, at the confluence of the two streams that form the
Kleinthal.

101/2^- Miinster (* Miinster Hotel, at the station; Starch, in the
town), a manufacturing town with 5800 inhab., situated at the base
of the Mbnchsherg, at the union of the Kleinthal with the Grossthal,
the latter of which is watered by the Fecht. The place owes its origin
to a Benedictine abbey founded here by King Childeric about 660,
the buildings of which, however, have entirely disappeared with the
exception of a single tower. In the middle ages Miinster was a free
town of the German Empire.

A pleasant excursion may be made from Bliinster to the *Schloss-
wald, 1^/4 31. to the E., an eminence laid out in pleasure-grounds and
crowned by the ruin of Schwarzenburg.

Fkom MiJNSTEK TO Metzeral , 31/2 M., branch-railway, ascending the
picturesque valley of the Fecht. — From (1/2 M.) Luttenbach we may as-

22*

340 Route 47. REMIREMONT. Excursions

cend in 2V2 trs. (finger-posts) to the top of the Kahlenwasen , Kleine
Belchen, or Petit Ballon (4180 ft.), which commands an extensive view of
the Miinsterthal and the Lauchthal. The direct ascent from Miinster, via
Eschhach and Erschlitt, also takes about 21/2 hrs. The ascent is sometimes
made from Sulzhach (see below). — 31/2 M. Metzeral (Goldene Sonne), an
industrial village with several cotton-mills. A fine road leads hence to
(4 hrs.) Wildenstein (p. 343).

The Railway from Miinster to Colmar (see p. 323) descends the
industrial valley of the Fecht. 2 M. Giinsbach. — 4 M. Weier-im-
Thal (*Hotel at the station) , about 1 M. to the S. of which is a
small bath-establishment near the ancient town of Sulzbarh. Among
the numerous pleasant excursions made from this point may be
mentioned that to (1 hr.) Wasserburg^ with its ruined castle, and on
to the Kahlenwasen (see above). — 5 M. Walbach^ from which we
may ascend to (IV2 tr.) the Hohnack (see below) and the Hohen-
landsberg (see below).

8 M. Tilrkheim (Hotel Aubert), an old town still partly sur-
rounded by walls and towers.

An omnibus runs hence to Drei JEhren, Fr. Notve-Dame-des-Trois-Epis
(1910 ft.; TroisRois; Trois Epis), a finely situated pilgrim and summer re-
sort, 5 M. to the N.W. — About IV2 M. to the K. rises the Galz (2400 ft.),
a rocky height commanding an extensive view. — To the S.W. (3 M.)
is the Grosse Hohnack (3215 ft.), another good point of view. The Kleine
Hohnack (3018 ft.), to the ]N. of the last, is crowned with a ruined castle.

On the other side of the valley, 1 M. to the S.E. of Tiirkheim and
3 M. from Colmar (steam-tramway in '/■i lir. •, fares 40, 20 pf.) , lies the
village of Winzenheim (Storch; Meyer, well spoken of), from which a visit
may be paid to the ruins of Hohenlandsberg and Plixburg. A new footpath,
not to be mistaken (guide-posts), issuing from the W. end of the village,
leads to the top in 1 hour. The ruin of Hohenlandsberg (20T0ft.; view)
consists of little more than the outer walls of an extensive castle, which
was destroyed by the French in 1635. In returning we may proceed either
by Plixburg or by the direct and easy path of the Vosges Club to Wal-
bach (see above).

The railway now skirts the Logelbach^ an old canal, in the plain
where Turenne surprised and signally defeated the German imperial
army in 1675. To the left runs the tramway to Schnierlach (p. 333).
— 10 M. Logelhach. — 12 M. Colmar, see p. 323.

c. From Epinal to Miilhausen viS. Bussang and Wesserling.

66V2 M. — Railway to (37 M.) Bussang in 2-2V4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 70,
4 fr. 55, 2 fr. 95 c). — Omndsds from Bussang to (8V2 M.) Wesserling in
2 hrs. (fare 2^/4 fr.), at 9.30 a.m. and 3 p.m. — Railway from Wesserling
to (2OV2M.) Miilhausen in IV4-IV2 lir. (fares 2 Jl ^0, 1^90, 1^20pf.).

From Epinal to (7'/2 M.) Arches, see p. 333. Our line now di-
verges to the right from that to Gerardmer and continues to ascend
the valley of the Moselle.

171/2 M. Kemiremont (1340 ft.; Buffet ,• *H6t€l de la Poste; *Cheval
de Bronze; Deux Clefs), a pleasant-looking town with 10,479 inhab.,
agreeably situated on the left bank of the Moselle, at the base of the
fortified hill of Parmont (2010 ft.). It owes its origin to a monastery
founded by St. Romaric on the Saint Mont (see p. 341). A nunnery

into the Vosges. BUSSANG. d7. Route. 341

established in the town became afterwards a chapter of noble ladies
and acquired some celebrity before its suppression at the Revolution.

Remiremont is a particularly clean little town, and streamlets of
clear water run through its streets. The principal edilice is the
Parish Church, formerly the abbey-church, which lies to the S. of
the main street. Founded in 910 and consecrated in 1050, it has
been frequently altered and rebuilt, but the crypt under the choir
dates from the 10th century. The interior is elaborately decorated.
— Adjoining the church is the former Palace of the Abbesses, now
the Hotel de Ville, rebuilt in the original 18th cent, style after a
fire in 1871. Some of the Houses of the Canonesses are also extant,
near the church. The Sous-Prefecture is one of these. — To the S.
of the town is the Jfine Promenade du Calvaire.

Branch-railway from Remiremont to Cornimont , see p. 343; route to
Plombieres, see p. 521. Omnibuses leave the Hotel de la Poste at 9 a.m. and
6 p.m. — Tramway to Gerardmer, see p. 335.

Excursions may be made from Remiremont to the St. Mont (2190 ft.),
an isolated hill, IV2 hr. to the N.E. (see p. 3'lO) via (1 M.) St. Etienne
(3156 inliab.) 5 to the pretty Valley of HMval., IV2 hr. to the S.; and to
the Foret du Ban and the Vallei/ of the Gdhard, to the S.W.

Beyond Remiremont the train crosses the Moselle near its con-
fluence with the Moselotte. 2072 M. Vecoux. The valley now con-
tracts. 26 M. Rupt-sur- Moselle (4373 inhab.). To the right is a fort,
commanding the road to Luxeuil. 31 M. Le ThilLot (Cheval Blanc),
at the mouth of the valley of La Presle, also protected by a fort. A
large canal-reservoir is being constructed here. To the Ballon de
Servance (p. 345), 6V2 M.

35 M. St. Maurice-sur-Moselle (1824 ft.; *H6tel de la Poste; de
la Gare\ an industrial village with 2790 inhab., at the beginning of
the route to the Walsche Belchen (p. 344).

Near the church, to the right of the road, begins the interesting Colline
des Charbonniers (finger-posts). About 2 M. up this valley, to the left, opens
the Vallon de la Grande-Goutte, through which we may ascend to the (lV2hr.)
C/iaume (3517 ft.) and the (V2 hr.) Tete des Neuf-Bo%s (4048 ft. ; view). Con-
tinuing to ascend the Colline des Charbonniers, we first pass (4 M.) a rough
path leading (to the right) to the (1 hr.) Col des Gliarbonniers (3625 ft.),
and then reach (6V2M.) the Chaume du Rouge-Gazon or Rotfie Wasen (4098ft.),
whence a walk of 20 min. to the S. brings us to a rock commanding a good
view of the pretty Lac de Bers or de la Perche, Ger. Sternsee. Thence we
ascend in 20 min. more to the Gresson (4230 ft.), a fine point of view. From
the Rouge-Gazon we may return to the N., along the frontier, to the
(V2 hr.) Chaume des Neufs-Bois (p. 342) , the forester's house of Sichenat,
and to (2 hrs.) Bussang (see below).

The railway, leaving St. Maurice to the right, crosses the Moselle
twice.

37 M. Bussang (2045 ft.; Grand Hotel des Sources, at the bath
establishment, pens. 9-15 fr.; Deux Clefs, Central, in the village),
a village with 2600 inhab., is visited on account of its Mineral Springs,
situated IV4 M. farther up the valley of the Moselle. The waters,
which are cold, ferruginous, and strongly effervescent, are not much
used on the spot, but they are exported in large quantities.

342 Route 47. WES8ERLING. Excursions

Excursions. Paths indicated by finger-posts and coloured marks on
rocks, trees, etc. — On the N. of the Moselle Valley. Via the valley of La
Hutte, beyond the bridge between Bussang and its springs, to the (IV2 hr.)
Col cfOderen (p. 344), to the N.E., by which we may reach Cornimont
(p. 343) ; to the (23/4 hrs.) Drumont or Petit- Dnimont (8965 ft. •, view) ; the
Grand- Drumont or Tete de Fellering (4020 ft.), the summit of the mountain,
is 35 min. farther on. On the S. of the Moselle Valley. From the
Pon( du Sdchenai, 1 M. from Bussang, to (1 hr.) the Roche du Sabbat and
(V2 hr. thence) the Chaume des Neufs-Bois (p. 341) 5 or via the (1 hr.) for-
ester's house of Sichenat to the (1 hr.) Chaume des Neufs-Bois^ etc.

The Road to Wesserling diverges to tlie right from the old road,
which is V3M. shorter and leads past the mineral spring, but rejoins
it at the Col. At the head of the valley rise the Cote des Russiers
(3910 ft.) and the Tete des Allemands (3320 ft.). — 21/2 M. Col de
Bussang. At the top is a tunnel about 270 yds. in length , with a
gate marking the frontier. Beyond the Col the road, hewn in the
living rock, descends circuitously, affording a series of fine views.
To the left rises the Grosse Belchen (see below). — 6'/2 M- Vrbis
or Urbes (Couronne), with the German custom-house. We now
enter the valley of the Thur.

Sy.j M. Wesserling (*H6tel de Wesserling, near the station), an
industrial village with cotton-mills. — Route to LaBresse, see p. 343.

The Railway from AVesserling to Miilhausen descends iheValley
of St. Amarin or valley of the Thur. — 2 M. St. Amarin (Goldener
Liiwe), one of the oldest places in the valley. Ascent of the Grosse
Belchen, see below. — 3 M. Moosch. — 5 M. Weiler.

The Grosse, Gebweiier, or Sulzer Belchen (4677 ft.), the highest of
the Vosges Mts., is best ascended from Weiler (81/2 hrs.). The route leads
to the N. via (IV2 hr.) Altenbach and the (l^/z hr.) Haager Hiitte (Rfmts.).
whence the summit (Hotel) may be reached in 1/2 hr. Extensive panorama.
The descent may be made to St. Amarin (see above).

6 M. Bitschweiler, between two short tunnels. — 8 M. Thann
(Moschenross; Zwei Schliissel), the chief town of the district, with
ToOO inhab. and thriving cotton and silk factories, is dominated by
the ruined castle oiEngelhurg. The '■Church of St. Theobald, dating
from the 14th cent., is a gem of Gothic architecture and possesses
a beautiful tower of the 15th century.

11 M. Sennheim (Zwei Schliissel), a small industrial town.

A branch-line runs hence to (12 M.) Masmiinster, Fr. Massevaux (Goldner
Adler), whence an omnibus plies twice daily to(6M.) Sewen (Krone; Hirsch),
whence the ascent of the Wdlsche Belchen or Ballon d'' Alsace (p. 344) takes
about 21/2 hrs. The route leads via the small Lake of Sewen , and the
(21/2 hrs.) Ferine du Ballon (p. 344), about 10 min. from the top. — About
4 M. from Masmiinster is Rougemont (Inn), whence a 'courrier' (21/2 fr.)
plies twice daily in 3 hrs. to (10 M.) Belfort (p. 305).

Our line now joins the Strassburg railway. 17 M. Lutterbach ;
I8V2 M. Dornach. — 2OV2 M. Miilhausen, see p. 322.

d. From Epinal to Mulhausen vi& Cornimont and Wesserling.

I. Via Cornimont, La Bresse, and Wesserling.

7372 M. — Railway to (32 M.) Cornimont in 2-23/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 70, 3 fr.
i5, 2 fr. 50 c). — Omnibus twice daily from Cornimont to (5 M.) La Bresse

into the Vosges. CORNIMONT. 47. Route. 343

in 1 hr. (fare 1 fr.) and from Wildenstein thrice daily to (7 M.) Wesserling
in li/z tr. (fare I'/a fr.). The distance between La Bresse and Wildenstein
is 9 M. (carr. 12 fr.), but pedestrians can save 2 M. of this by short-cuts.
— Railway from Wesserling to (SO'/z M.) Millhausen as above.

From Epinal to (17 '/2M.) iJcm/remonf, see p. 340. The 'braTicli
railway to Cornimont turns to the left, beyond the bridge over the
Moselle, and ascends the valley of the Moselotte. — 21 M. Dommar-
tin-les-Remiremont ; 22 M. Syndicat-St-Ame (omn. to Gerardmer,
via St. Ame, see p. 335). — 23 V2 M. Vagney (Hot. de la Poste). The
village lies 1/2 ^- from the station, on the Bouchot, which forms the
pretty fall of Saut du Bouchot (85-100 ft. high), 3 M. farther on,
beyond Sapois. Route thence to Ge'rardmer, see p. 335. — The valley
continues to be picturesque ; best views to the left. The railway has
at several points been hewn out of the living rock. 29 M. Saulxures-
sur- Moselotte, a small manufacturing town.

32 M. Cornimont (1910 ft,; Cheval de Bronze), a manufacturing
town with 5328inhab., possesses a fine modern Church in the Gothic
style of the 13th cent, and a modern Chateau.

Carriage with one horse (2 seats) to Qirardmer via Grosse Pierre,
15 fr., with 2 horses, 25 fr. ; to Bussang, 15 or 25 fr. ; to the Schlucht. 13 or
30 fr. ; to Wesserling, 15 or 30 fr.

Route to Ventron and the Col cfOderen, see p. 344.

The Road to Wesserling ascends the valley of the Moselotte.

41/2 M. La Bresse (2080 ft.; *n6tel du Soleil or Thissier), another
small industrial town (4560inhab.), with traces of glacial action and
other interesting geological phenomena in its environs. The houses
of the little town extend for a considerable distance up the valleys
of the two streams that form the Moselotte.

Hence to Girardmer, see pp. 336, 335 ; to the Schlucht. the Hoheneck, the
Lac des Corbeanx, and the Lac de Blanchemer, see pp. 338, 339, and below.

Beyond La Bresse the road to Wesserling coincides at first with
that to the Schlucht, but diverges from it after 3 M. and crosses the
Vologne. Fine view, to the left, of the head of the valley. We ascend
through wood. In another l'/2 M- {^^k M- ^"^om. La Bresse) a foot-
path on the left leads to the Lac de Blanchemer (p. 338), and a little
farther on diverges that leading to the Lac Marchet and the Rothen-
bachkopf (p. 339). In 3/^ M. more we reach the —

91/4 M. (from Cornimont) Col de Bramont (2920 ft.), on the
frontier between France and Germany. [Pedestrians may reach this
point via the Lac des Corbeaux in 2Y2 hrs.] The view from the Col
itself is limited, but beyond the small custom-house (examination)
it becomes more free and picturesque. The road describes several
wide curves, which pedestrians may avoid. — 14 M. Wildenstein
(Sonne), the first village in Alsace. Route to Metzeral, see p. 340.
On the hill in the middle of the valley stood the castle of Wilden-
stein, destroyed in the 17th century. — 17 M. Kruth. At (18 M.)
Oderen our road unites with that over the Col d'Oderen (p. 344).
Then (left), the pilgrimage-chapel of Notre-Dame-des- Aides. —
191/2 M. Fellering. — 2OV2 M. Wesserling, see p. 342.

344 Route 47. WALSCHE BELCHEN. Excursions

II. Via Cornimont, Ventron, and Wesserling.

67 M. — Eailwats, see p. 342. From Cornimont to Wesserling 15 M., of
which the first S'/z M. are traversed by a diligence from Cornimont to
Ventron, and the last 3V2 M. by the diligence from Wildenstein to Wesser-
ling. Carriage from Cornimont to Wesserling, see p. 343.

From Epinal to (32 M.) Cornimont, see p. 343. The road to Ven-
tron leaves the Remlremont road at some distance to the left of the
railway, and ascends theindustrial valley of a tributary of the Moselotte.

351/2^- Ventron (Hot. Valroff )is a manufacturing village situated
among pasture-lands and wooded hills. — 361/2 M. Le Grand-Ven-
tron is a hamlet at the exit of the valley of Ventron. We cross the
stream, leave the road on the left, and ascend rapidly among woods.

The (381/2 M.) Col d'Oderen or de Ventron (2900 ft.) lies on the
frontier, between the Grand-Drumont (4020 ft. ; p. 342), on the right,
and the Haut de Felza (3765 ft.; ascent in 35 miii. ; view), on the
left. The path to the right, partly through wood, descends direct to
Eellering (see p. 343). Our path descends in windings (fine views)
to the valley of the Thur. — From (411/2 ^^O Chapelle-St-Nicolas
another shorter path leads to the right to Oderen. — 43 M. Krilth.
Thence to Wesserling, see p. 343.

e. From Epinal to Belfort viS. the Walsche Belchen.

60 M. — Railway to (35 M.) St. Maurice-sur- Moselle (p. 341) in 2 hrs.
(fares 0 fr. 25, 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 75 c). — Road from >St. Slaurice to Giromagmi,
16 M. (short-cuts for walkers) ; to the Wiilsche Belchen, lU M. Public ve-
hicles sometimes ply. Carr. from St. Maurice to the Belchen 10-12 fr.,
with two horses 20-24 fr. — Railw ay from Giromagny to (9 M.) Belfori in
30-45 min. (fares 1 fr. 55, 1 fr. 0, 70 c).

From Epinal to (35 M.) St. Maurice-sur- Moselle^ see pp. 340, 341.

Pedestrians may cover the distance from St. Maurice to the Belchen
in about 2 hrs. by following the Old Road, which leaves the village oppo-
site the Hotel de la Poste. This is now little more than a pathway, parts
of which are very steep, and is best used for the descent only (IVs hr.).
It crosses the new road several times (way-posts) and linally unites with
it at the Jumenterie (see below), about 3^/4 M. from St. Maurice.

The new Highroad to the Wiilsche Belchen (2'/2 trs.) starts
at the beginning of the village of St. Maurice and after 2M. enters
the forest. About '^/^ M. farther on is the Plain du Canon, a col
with a forester's house (Rfmts.), where a famous echo may be awak-
ened (cannon-shot 50 c). A finger-post indicates the way hence to
the (4M.) Ballon de Servance (p. 345). We ascend from the Plain du
Canon through wood (no view) to (6xM.) the Jumenterie (3490 ft.),
a cheese-manufactory, where the pedestrian route joins the high-
road (see above). Soon after the Wiilsche Belchen comes into view
on the left, and the Ballon de Servance on the right. About •% ^^^
farther on we pass the Ferme du Ballon or de Rosaye (Rfnits.),
whence the top of the Walsche Belchen is reached in 10-15 minutes.

The *Walsche Belchen, or Ballon d' Alsace (4120 ft.), is one
of the chief summits of the Vosges Mts. The highest point, a
little to the left of the statue of the Virgin, is marked by a 'mountain

into the Vosges. GIROMAGNY. 47. Route. 345

indicator' showing the chief heights in the neighbourhood. The
*View from the top is magnificent, particularly towards the S.E.,
and it is unimpeded except on the N.W., where the Ballon de Ser-
vance rears its bulky form. To the N. are the Drumont, the Grand
Ventron, and the Hoheneck; to the N.E., the Rouge Gazon, the
Gresson, and the Grosse Belchen ; to the E. , Miilhausen, the
Rhine, and the Blauen, Belchen, and other summits of the Black
Forest; to the S.E., in clear weather, the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn,
Eiger, Jungfrau (named from left to right), and other peaks and
glaciers of the Bernese Oberland are visible; to the S., Belfort; to
the S.W., the Jura. By proceeding to a point about 5 min. to the
N. of the summit we obtain a view of the CoUihe des Charbonniers
(p. 341) and of the valley of the Moselle, with Bussang, St. Maurice,
and other villages. — The descent may be made to (1^/4 hr.) Sewen
(p. 342), the lake of which is seen to the E., 2400 ft. below us.

The view from the Ballon de Servance (3900 ft.) is more limited, and
the summit is occupied by a fort to which visitors are not admitted. We
reach the top from the Walsche Belchen (way-posts) in about 2 hrs., via
(3/4 hr.) the Col de Stalon (H120 ft.) and the (1/2 hr.) Ferme du Beurei) (3792 ft.).
The direct ascent from St. Maurice (3V4-3V2 hrs.) leads via the Plain du
Canon (see p. 344). — Servance (Hotel), the industrial village after which
the Ballon is named, lies about 12 M. to the W.S.W. An omnibus plies
thence twice daily to (14 M.) Lure (p. 305) in 21/2 hrs. (fare 2 fr.).

On the road descending to Giromagny, about 1 M. from the
summit of the Walsche Belchen, is the large *Hdtel du Ballon d' Alsace
(3675 ft.; R. 3, de'j. 3, D. 4 fr.). Pedestrians effect a considerable
saving by taking the path which descends through the wood opposite
the hotel. The path is somewhat rough and fatiguing at the other
end, especially for those coming in the opposite direction (ascent of
the Belchen from Giromagny by this route 3 hrs.). It passes the
(Y2 lir.) Etang des Fagnies, or du Petit-Haut (3034 ft.), on the right,
and in its lower part skirts the Savoureuse. About '/4 hr. beyond
the hotel another but less interesting path diverges to the left,
leading eventually to the same point. — The road descends still
more circuitously than on the St. Maurice side of the ridge. A
little beyond the hotel is the Chalet Bonaparte or Boisgeol. The
footpath joins the road about 5^2 M. farther on. Here, to the right,
is seen the pretty waterfall called the Saut de la Truite (2316 ft.) ;
and there is another fall about 3/4 M. farther on. The road on this
side affords fine views. The first inn is at (772 M.) Le Malvaux,
near the bottom of the valley. We then pass Le Puix and reach —

10 M. Giromagny (1560 ft.; Hotel du Boeuf ; Soleil), a town
on the Savoureuse, with 3500 inhab., possessing thread-mills, cotton
mills, and argentiferous lead-mines. On the W. it is commanded
by a fort. The modern Gothic church has a fine tower. The railway
station lies on the side of the town opposite that which we reach first.

The railway and the road to Belfort descend to the S. across a
plain studded with small lakes. 4 M. La Chapelle-sous-Chaux,
At (5 M.) Bas-Evelte we join the Paris and Belfort line (p. 305).

346

48. From Belfort (Strassburg) to Dijon,
a. Vi& Montbeliard and Besancon.

II6V2 M. Railway in 51/4-61/2 lirs. (fares 21 fr. 5, 14 fr. 20, 9 fr. 85lc.).
From Belfort, to Besangon^ 59^/2 M., railway in 2V2-3 hrs. (fares 10 fr."85,
7 fr. 25, 4 fr. 75 c). The direct through-trains from Strassburg to Dijon
by this picturesque line take about 13 hours.

Belfort^ see p. 305. For some distance beyond Belfort we
proceed in tlie direction of Miilliausen, and then turn to the S. —
6 M. Hericourt (Poste), a small manufacturing town with spinning and
weaving factories, is famous for the battle of Jan. 15-17th, 1871, in
which Bourbaki attempted in vain to raise the blockade of Belfort,
and was obliged to retreat to Switzerland (comp. p. 305). — Farther
on, the line descends through the vaUey of the Lisaine.

11 M. Montbeliard, Ger. Mompelgard (Hotel de la Balance), a
town with 9800 inhab., most of whom are Protestants, is situated at
the confluence of the Allaine and the Lisaine, and on the Rhone-
Rhine Canal (p. 322). It is an industrial centre of some impor-
tance, its chief products being clocks and watches. In the middle
ages Mompelgard was the capital of a countship, which passed to
Wurtemberg in 1397 and remained united with it until 1793.

The Chateau^ situated on a rock near the station, is a building
of the 18th cent., with two towers dating respectively from the 15th
and the 16th cent. ; its fortifications, of which some remains are
extant, made it one of the chief positions of the Germans during
the battle of He'ricourt. — The Grande Rue, beginning at the sta-
tion and traversing the town, passes the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville,
which is embellished with a fine bronze statue, by David d' Angers,
of Cuvier (1769-1832), a native of Montbeliard. The same street
leads on to the Place d'Armes, which contains a statue of Colonel
Denfert-Rocherau (1823-78), the defender of Belfort (p. 306),
and to the Place Dorian, with a Bust of Dorian (1814-73), member
of the National Defence. Farther on is the Roman Catholic Church.
a handsome modern building in the Renaissance style.

A branch -railway runs from Montbeliard to (18 M.) Delle^ passing
several industrial places with iron-works, manufactures of hardware and
household articles, etc. At (8V2 M.) Morvillars we join the line from Bel-
fort to Delle.

From MoNTBfiLiAKD to St. HiproLYXE (Doubs and Dessouhre Valleys),
20 M., railway in V/^-P/i hrs. This branch line diverges from the main
line at Voujeaucourt (see p. 347) and ascends for some distance the upper
valley of the Doubs^ which soon turns to the S. — 15 M. Mathay., the station
for Mandeure, a village on the right bank, on the site of the important Ro-
man town of Epomanduodurum. Numerous antiquities found here are now-
preserved in the museum at Besancon. — 13 M. Pont-de-Roide, a finely-situated
industrial and commercial town with 2774 inhabitants. — 20 M. St. Hippo-
lyte {Croix d''Or), an industrial village, in a picturesque district at the
confluence of the Doubs and the Dessoubre.

A diligence plies daily from St. Hippolyte up the winding valley of
the Doubs to (2OV2 M.) St. Orsanne, crossing the Swiss frontier beyond
(7 M.) Vaufrey (Inn). — Another diligence (thrice daily) ascends the valley
of the Dessoubre to (7 M.) Malche (Aigle Ifoir), an industrial town occupy-
ing the centre of the district, with diligence-connection with (11 M.) Mor-

BAUME-LES-DAMES. 48. Route. 347

ieau (p. 354), with Clerval (see below, 41/2 lirs.), and with Chmix-de-Fonds
(p. 355; 31/4 hrs.), etc.

The line crosses the Savoureuse and the canal, and passes through
a tunnel. The branch-railway to Delle diverges on the left. Our
line reaches the right bank of the Doubs, which it crosses several
times farther on. — 13V2 M. Voujeaucourt is a large iron-making
village. — 18 M. Colombier-Fontaine. 2072 M. St. Maurice. The
train passes through a tunnel. The scenery becomes more pictur-
esque; fine glimpses of the Jura to the left. — 23 M. U Isle-sur-le-
Doubs (Hot. du Nord), a small iron-making town. Tunnel (1230 yds.
long). Beyond (29^2 M.) Clerval are three tunnels , and between
(351/2 M.) Hievre-Paroisse and the following station are five more.
This picturesque rocky part of the valley (between Hievre and
Laissey, see below) repays the pedestrian.

39^2 M. Baume-les-Dames (Hot. du Commerce) is a town with
2990 inhab., which before the Revolution possessed a wealthy con-
vent of noble ladies of the Benedictine order.

At Fourbanne, about 4 M. from Bauine, near the railway, is a fine
stalactite cavern, with twenty-one chambers.

Diligence (IV2 fr.) twice daily to (1 hr.) Guillon-les- Bains (Hotel de
rEtablissement), a watering-place, with a cold mineral spring.

The line continues to run through a picturesque district, and
threads three other tunnels. 47 M. Laissey, with iron-mines. 54 M.
Roche. On the left bank of the Doubs is Arcier, a hamlet named
from the arches of a ruined Roman aqueduct, restored in 1854-55.
— Farther on, to the left, is the Signal de Montfaucon (2000 ft.),
with the ruins of a chateau of the same name above a modern fortress.
The line now passes through a tunnel 1170 yds. long, beyond which
we obtain a good view, to the left, of Besan(;on and the fortified
heights round it.

591/2 M. Besancon (Gare de la Viotte), see p. 348.

Beyond Besancon the railway to Dole and Dijon runs at some
distance from the Doubs, but it again approaches the river and the
Rhone-Rhine Canal farther on. The district traversed becomes less
mountainous. — 83 M. Franois. About 2 M. to the E. of (94 M.)
Ranchot is Fraisans, with important iron-works. 95 M. Labarre, the
junction for Gray (p. 318); 102 M. Rochefort. — For (106 M.) Dole,
and the continuation of the railway to (135^/2 M.) Dijon, see p. 377.

b. Vi&. yesoul and Besancon.

1441/2 M. Railway in 6-91/4 hrs. (fares the same as for R. 48 a).

From Belfort to (39 M.) Vesoul, see p. 304. The line now turns
to the S.E., and traverses a wooded district, crossing several high
embankments. Beyond (43 M.) Villers-le-Sec the train passes
through some cuttings in the rock and turns to the S. — 47 M.
Vallerois-le-Bois, with an old castle, lies to the left. About 81/2^*
to the E. is Villersexel (p. 305).

54 M. Montbozon; the village, with a fine chateau of the 16th

348 Route 49. BESANgON. Hotels.

cent., lies about I74 M. to the left, on the banks of the Ognon, the
valley of which the line now descends. Line to Lure, see p. 305. —
Beyond (57 M.) Loulans-les-Forges we cross the winding Ognon.
Beyond (601/2 M.) Rigney is a lofty viaduct. 65 M. Moncey. The Jura
now appears to the left. 67^2 ^' Merey- Vieilley ; 70^2 M. Devecey. The
line quits the valley of the Ognon and traverses another wooded and
hilly district. Extensive view to the right. — At (72'/2 M.) Auxon-
Dessus, with salt-works, the line to Gray (p. 318) diverges to the right.
Beyond (74 M.) Miserey^ also with salt-works, the train passes
through three tunnels, the last two of which succeed each other
immediately and are together 3/^ M. long. — 78^2 M. Besancon
(Gare de la Viotte), see below. — Thence to Dole, see p. 347.

49. Besancon.

Railway Stations. Gare de la Viotte (PI. A, 1 ; Buffet), for all trains ;
Gare de la Mouillere (PL D, 1), for the line to Morteau and Neuchatel
(R. 50), the trains for which start from the central station and pass here
1/4 hr. later.

Hotels. Grand Hotel des Bains, beside the Casino (PI. C, 1), R., L.,
& A. from 3, B. IV4-IV2, d^j. 3\2, D. 4 fr. •, de Paris (PI. c; C, 2), Rue des
Granges, R., L., & A. 2V2-5, dtg. 1-3, D. 3, omn. 1/2-^4 fr. ; du Nord (PI.
8B5 C, 2), Rue Moncey, dej. or D. 3 fr. ; de l'Eorope (PI. b; C, 2), Rue
St. Pierre; -Coueonne (PI. d; B, 2) , Rue de Gleres, R. 1-3, dej. or D.
21/2 fr. ; National, Rue des Granges 44, small, pens. 6 fr. ; Drouot, at the
Gare de la Viotte.

Restaurants. Colomat^ Rue des Granges 28; Vergiiet, Grande-Rue 86,
dej. 372, D. 4 fr. ; Gavillon, Rue St. Pierre IB, dej. from 2 f r. — Cafe
Restaur nt at the Bains Salins. — Buffet at the Viotte Station. — Cafes.
Caf4 Parisien, Georges, Veuve Bauzon, du Helder, all in the Promenade
Granvelle (PL D, 3); du Commerce, near the Hotel de Paris; Duprez, Place
Claude de-Jouffroy (Madeleine; PL B, 3); de la Bourse, in front of the Musee
(p. 351); Tarerne Ahacienne. Rue St. Pierre 26; Brasserie FHix Brelin, in the
Square St. Amour (PL C, 2).

Cabs. Per '/2 tr. with one horse 1 fr., two horses 11/4 fr., each ad-
ditional 1/2 br. 75 c. and 1 fr. ; at night (10-6 in summer , 9-7 in winter),
IV2 and 1, 2 and IV2 fr.

Electric Tramways. From the Gare de la Viotte (PL A, 1) to Tarragnoz
(see PL F, 4); from St. Claude (see PL A, 1) to the Porte Rivotte (PL E,
2) ; from Chaprais (see PL B, 1) to the Prifeciure (PL C, D, 4) and the
Place Jouffrorj (PL B, 2, 3). Fares 10-20 c; correspondance, 5 c. extra.

Baths. Bains Salins. p. 353; Bains Granvelle, Rue de la Prefecture 10.

Post & Telegraph Office, Grande-Rue 100, near the Palais Granvelle.

Besancon (820ft.), a venerable town with 57,556 inhab., formerly
the capital of the Franche-Comte^ and now of the Departement du
Doubs^ is mainly built on a tongue of land surrounded by the river
Doubs. It is a fortress of the first class, defended by a citadel on
the hill rising from the middle of the neck of the peninsula (1205 ft. ;
to the S.E.), and by detached forts on the neighbouring heights. Be-
sancon is the headquarters of the Vllth Corps d'Arme'e and the seat
of an archbishop, of a university, and of an artillery-school. It is also
an important industrial centre, the staple industry being the manu-
facture of clocks and watches, which affords employment to one-
fifth of the population and furnishes more than four-fifths of the

Chaprai

Vesoifl /self ort A

Gravr el impriin<" pax

"Wagoxer (frDe'be's,- Leipzig-.

Palais Granvelle. BESANgON. 49. Route. 349

watches sold in France (450,000 annually), representing at the
lowest computation the sum of 500,000i. On account of its advan-
tageous situation near Switzerland, at the junction of several
railways, and on the Rhone-Rhine Canal, the trade of Besan^on is
equally important. The canal coincides at this point with the Doubs,
except where it flows through a tunnel, 415 yds. long, underneath
the citadel, shortening the navigation by 2-3 M.

Besancon, the Vesontio or Bisontium of the Romans, was the capital
of the Sequani at the time (58 B.C.) when Casar conquered Ariovistus,
king of the Suevi. Owing to its great importance as a strategical position,
it became a flourishing city under the Romans and was made the capital of
Sequania Maxima, The town was plundered several times during the bar-
baric invasions and belonged in turn to the Burgundians and the Franks. It
was then successively united to the kingdoms of Burgundy and Aries and
to the Germanic Empire, and in the 12th cent, it was created a free town
by Frederick Barbarossa, who held several diets here. It was ceded to
Spain by the Treaty of Westphalia in 1648, was taken, lost, and re-taken
by the French during the 17th cent., and has belonged to France since the
Treaty of Nimwegen in 1678. Besancon was unsuccessfully besieged by
the Austrians for four months in 1814. In 1870-71 it was not attacked by
the Germans, but served as a base for the operations of Bourbaki s army
against Werder, who was besieging Belfort. Among the famous sons of
Besancon are Marshal Moncey, General Pajol, Charles Nodier, and Victor
Hugo.

From the Gave de la Viotte (PL A, 1) we reach the centre of the
town either by making a rather long detour to the left through the
Faubourg de la Mouilltre and following the road that the omnibuses
take, or by turning to the right through the Faubourg de Battant,
In the first case we proceed through the Rue Saint-Pierre to the
Place St. Pierre (PL C, 2), which is skirted by the Grande-Rue; in
the second, we reach the Pont de Battant (p. 361), where the Grande-
Rue begins (p. 353).

The church of St. Pierre (PL C, 2), an uninteresting edifice of
the 18th cent., contains a Pieta in marble, by Luc Breton (S. tran-
sept), and a Madonna and Child by Cle'singer (N. transept), both
artists being natives of Besangon. — Opposite the church stands the
Hotel de Ville (PL C, 3), a building of the 16th cent., with a time-
blackened front in rusticated masonry. Behind it is the Palais de
Justice^ also of the 16th cent., with a pleasing fayade.

The Palais Granvelle (PL D, 3), farther on, to the right, at the
corner of the Rue de la Prefecture, was built by Cardinal Granvella,
the famous chancellor of Charles V. , who was born at Ornans
(p. 354) in 1517 and became archbishop of Besancon near the end
of his life (d. 1586). The court of the palace is surrounded with
arcades, resembling cloisters, and is embellished with a statue of the
cardinal , by Jean Petit, of Besancon. The palace is now occupied
by the learned societies of Besancon, and contains temporarily the
Gigoux and Grenier Collections of Drawings, as well as the framed
drawings of the old collection (open as the other Muse'e, p. 351).
Beyond the court (which is a thoroughfare) is the Promenade Gran-'
velle, where a band plays at stated times.

350 Route 49. BESANgON. Cathedral.

At the opposite corner of tlie P^ue de la Prefecture is the Fontaine
des Carmes, with a figure of Neptune by Claude Arnould, surnamed Lulier
(1570), said to be a portrait of the Duke of Alva, Charles V/s general
and a contemporary of Cardinal Grauvella (see p. 349).

A little Ijeyond the Palais Granvelle, to the left, is the church of
St. Maurice (PI, D, 2), built by the Jesuits in 1712-14. It contains
some line wood-carvings and a rich gilded altar, with a large reredos
in carved wood, representing the Assumption.

In the street to the left of this church is the Public Library
(PI. D, 2), which contains nearly 130,000 printed volumes and
1850 MSS. Among the latter are 80 folio volumes of Cardinal Gran-
vella's state-papers. It also contains a collection of 10,000 medals
and coins and various other curiosities. The library is open daily, 1-5
in summer and 12-4 in winter.

At No. 140, Grande-Rue (tablet), Victor Hugo (d. 1885) was boni
in 1802.

In the Square Archeologique (PI. D,2), to the left of the Grande-
Rue, are the ruins of what was probably the Ancient Theatre, after-
wards succeeded by a baptistery. A few columns, whole or in frag-
ments, and various other remains have been collected at each end
of the square, which also contains the ruins of the 'podium' or
internal foundations. A reference to the Plan will show other places
where vestiges of ancient buildings are still to be seen.

The Porte de Mars, Porte Noire, or Porta Nigra (PI. D, 2, 3),
near the end of the street, is the principal relic of Besan^on's ancient
importance and is said to have been erected by Marcus Aurelius in
167 A.D., as a triumphal arch to commemorate his victories over
the Germans. It consists of a single arch, 32 ft. high and 16 ft. wide,
adorned with eight columns arranged in two rows, but it is much
dilapidated and part of it had to be rebuilt in 1820.

The Cathedral of St. Jean (PI. E, 3), at the end of the Grande-
Rue and on the outskirts of the town, near the base of the citadel, is
the most interesting edifice in Besan(,on, but is unfortunately some-
what crowded by the neighbouring buildings. It is one of the few
churches in France with two apses, and in plan resembles the
churches on the banks of the Rhine. The only entrance is in the
side adjoining the Grande-Rue. The cathedral was founded in the
4th cent., but the greater part of the present building dates from
the ll-13th cent., and the E. apse was rebuilt in the 18th century.
The edifice thus presents a curious mixture of styles. The arches
and windows in the nave are Romanesque, the latter being preceded
by fine Gothic galleries. The principal apse, to the W., containing
some poor modern stained glass, is also Romanesque.

The interior contains numerous paintings and other works of art. Near
the organ is a picture by Fra Bartolommeo, representing the Madonna and
Child, with saints and a portrait of the donor, Jean Carondelet, archbishop
of Palermo. To the left of the entrance is the Death of Sapphira, by
Sebastian del Piombo or Tintoretto. Below is the monument of Ferry Caron-
delet (d. 1528} brother of Jean), dean of the metropolitan church of Be-

Museum. BESANgON. 49, Route. 351

sancon. At the end of the smaller apse is a Resurrection by Van Loo, and
on "the walls of the same apse are some interesting works by Natoire,
representing four scenes of the Passion. To the right of the entrance is
a statue of a Cardinal de Rohan (d. 1833), by Cle'singer the Elder, and to
the left, a statue of Cardinal Mathieu (d. 1875), by Bourgeois. To the
right of the smaller apse is a fine Astronomical Clock, with 72 dials, a
modern work by Verite, of Beauvais (see p. 35). The nave contains a
Gothic stone pulpit of the 16th century. Behind is a chapel with waggon
vaulting and carved panelling.

The Archbishop's Palace, adjoining the cathedral, also contains
some interesting works of art. Among these are a scene from the
History of Venice by Paul Veronese, a Bearing of the Cross hy
Cigoli, two landscapes hy Claude Lorrain, four sea-pieces by Joseph
Vernet, two portraits hy Rigaud, the sketch for Poussin's Rape of
the Sabine Women, a mitre of the 15th cent., and the processional
cross of Cardinal Granvella, a work in silver of the 16th century.

The Citadel (PL E, F, 3), which occupies the site of a Roman
'castrum', was built in the 17th cent., chiefly from the designs of
Vauban. It is commanded by some of the neighbouring heights, but
these are now defended by modern forts (no admission). Fine view
from these heights and from the slopes of the rocky plateau (1200 ft.)
on which the citadel stands, surrounded by the Doubs.

A little to the N.E. of the cathedral, at the end of the Rue Rivotte
(PI. E, 2) are the interesting Gothic Maison Mar&chal (No. 19; 1520) and
the old Porte Rivotte. — About '^ji M. to the E., on the bank of the Doubs
below the citadel, is the Porte TailUe (see Pi. F, 2, 3), a gateway built in
a cleft of the rock, through which the road to Lausanne now passes. It
dates from the time of the Romans, who constructed it for the passage
of an aqueduct, now restored (above). Fine views both on this side and
beyond the Porte.

At the end of the town next the Pont de Battant is the Place
de I'Abondance, with the Market Hall (PI. B, 2), a building of no
architectural merit, on the first floor of which is the Museum, contain-
ing an important collection of over 500 paintings and a considerable
number of antiquities. It is open to the public on Thurs. and Sun.,
from 12 to 4, and to strangers on other days also.

Ground-Floor. In the Vestibule and on the Staikcase are arranged
fragments of Roman monuments and casts. — Gallekies to the Right.
Archaeological Collection. To the right of the entrance. Head of a bronze
statue of Gen. Pichegru (p. 357), which was erected at the Restoration and
overthrown in 1830. Glass-case to the right: Vases, marble and bronze busts,
bronze statuettes. In the middle of the gallery, Casel: Medals, above are
sculptures; Case 2: Old coloured plan of Besancon, watch, Renaissance
clock, statuettes, etc. ; Case 3: Medals; Case 4: Christ crucified between the
two thieves (enamel); antique and other statuettes; other antiquities and
objects found in tombs; Case 5: Objects found in tomVs; Cases 6-8: An-
tique coins, statuettes, antique terracottas and glass; Case 9: Brazen Bull
with three horns in the Gallo-Grecian style; objects found in the Doubs.
Round the gallery is a collection of antique and other sculptures, a fine piece
of old tapestry, handsome cabinets, etc. Next the windows are sculptures,
coins, medallions, ancient weapons, Byzantine crucifixes; objects found in
the Doubs, etc. Ckoss Galleey at the pnd: Mosaic, small antiquities
(keys, buckles); several cases with Gallo-Roman antiquities. To the left
are sarcophagi, mummies, and other Egyptian antiquities.

First Floor. Paintings. Room I, to the right at the top of the stair-
case. From left to right : 430. Copy of Rubens, Rainbow ; 76. Copy of Cig-

352 Route 49. BESANgON. Museum.

nani, Joseph and Potiphar's wife; 451, 450. Snyders, Flowers and fruit;
343. Massimo, Lot and Ms daughters; 353. P. van Mol, Venus interceding
for JEneas; 428. After Rubens, Bearing of the Cross; 356, 355. Ant. More,
Portraits; 8. /. d'Arthois, Edge of a forest; 437. Ary Scheffer, General
Baudrand, of Besancon (d. 1848); -368. Bern, van Orley, Our Lady of the
Seven Woes, a magnificent triptych from an oratory in the Palais Gran-
velle, long attributed to Diirer; 490. After Paul Veronese, Ahasuerus dis-
missing Vashti; 251. Gigoux (of Besancon), Pere Lecour, wine-grower;
105. Courbet, Portrait of the artist; 13. fiar<i« (Besancon), 'Noces de Gamache'
(a luxurious banquet); 280. Guido, Lucretia; 473. C. Van Loo, Theseus and
the Minotaur. — 246. Gigoux, Death of Leonardo da Vinci. — 233. Frangais,
Landscape; 409. Ribera, Portrait; 66. Ph. de Campaigne, Old man; 468.
L. van Uden, Valley in Belgium; 499. Ph. Wouwerman, Forced halt; 425.
Rottenhammer, Crucillxion; 286. A. Hanneman, An abbe, chancellor of the
Golden Fleece; 153. Flemish School (18th cent.), Ecce Homo ; *57. Bronzino,
Descent from the Cross, a better work than the replica in the Uffizi
at Florence; 463. Titian, Cardinal Granvella (p. 349); 469. L. van Uden,
Landscape; 501. Wyrsch, Infancy of the Madonna; 1. Achard, Banks of the
Ain; 62. B. Strozzi (11 Cappuccino), Death of Lucretia; 240. Gaetano, Car-
dinal Granvella; 326. Fr. Le Moyne, Tancred and Clorinda (from Tasso);
472. Valentin, Gamblers; 291. After Holbein the Younger, Erasmus; 270.
Grimou, David and Goliath; 2ll. Italian School (16th cent.), Statesman
dictating a despatch; 129. l)om.enichino , Landscape with figures. — 248.
Gigoux, Eve of Austerlitz, — Sculptures in the middle of the room: Perrey,
Jezebel; Perraud, Venus chastising Cupid, an unfinished group; Dalou,
Bust of Courbet; Franceschi, Awakening; Malhej'be, The last nymph.

Room IL To the right, 407. After /?t6em, Astronomer; 479. Attributed
to Velazquez, Portrait; 236^ 235. Franck the Elder, Passage of the Jordan,
Passage of the Red Sea; l08. Noel Coypel , The artist and his daughter;
406. Ribera, Cynic philosopher; 40S. After Ribera, Geometrician. — Copies
of Poussin and of Rubens. 247. Gigovx, Pygmalion and Galatea. — 52. '•Velvef
Brueghel, Flight into Egypt; 2^d^. Rubens, Head (rf John the Baptist (replica) ;
493. /. Victors, Dutch kitchen; 278. Guercino, Head; 170. Dutch School, Old
man. — In the middle: 2S7. Harpignies, Valley of the Aumance.

Room III. To the right, 383. G. Pietersz, Portrait of a German prince;
no number, Giacomotti, Chapuis, the artist; 322. Largillihre, Court-lady of
the reign of Louis XV.; 244. Giacomotti. Martyrdom of St. Hippolyte;
254. Giorgione, Venetian patrician. — 3U-3'>. Boucher, Chinese scenes, de-
signs for tapestry executed for Mme. de Pompadour; 128. Domenichino,
Childhood of John the Baptist. — 2t1i. Largilliire, Family-group; G. Covr-
tois, 107. Elaine (from Tennyson), 106. Dante and Virgil in the ninth circle
of the Inferno (traitors); 439. Schido7ie (1), Adoration (>f the Shepherds; 207.
Giulio Romano, Justice of Trajan. — In the middle are landscapes and
other modern paintings: Giacomotti, S itoux, the sculptor; 438. Arnold
Schefer, Procession of the Leaguers at Paris (1589); 410. Ribot, charcjal-
burner's wife.

Room IV. To the right, Portraits of the French School; 72. Th. Char-
<ran (Besancon), Martyrdom in the cat combs at Rome; 146. German School
(style of Afdegrever) Portrait; 169. Flemish School (style of Brueghel the
Elder), Filial ingratitude; no number, Brouillet, Cupid; 46. Brascassat,
Torrent; 483. J. Vernet, Sea-piece; 460. Teniers ///e iViwn^er, Temptation of
St. Antony; 86. Cormon, .lealousy in the seraglio; Mabu-se, 337. Ecce Homo,
338. Jean Carondelet (p. 3')0); 444. Fr. Schommer, Mary Magdalen. — Franck
the Younger. 338. Bearing of tlie Cross, 237. Christ mocked by the Jews;
50. 'Bell-fire' Brueghel, Burning of Troy; 47. BrauicerC^), Tavern; 359.
P. Neeffs the Elder, Churcli in Flande-s; 202 (below), Italian School Cap-
ture of Athens by Minos; 303. Knlf, Saying grace; 'Velvet^ Hrueghel,
55. Village festival, Terrestrial Paradise, 56. Skaters; 517. Zurharan,
St. Francis of Assisi; 9. Bailie, Obsequies of St. Sebastian; Is. van Ostade,
201, 369. Skaters; 2i15. Clouet (Janet), The Sire de Vieillev'lle; 426. Von
Thulden, Easter Morning; 344. Matsys, Philosopher meditating on a skull.

Room V contains paintings, medals, terracottas, and copies of bas-
^•eliefs. No. 104. Courbet, Stag-hunt; 22. N. Berthon, Funeral in Anvergnei

Saline Baths. BESANgON. 49. Route. 353

no number, Enders, Will of Pere Tiennot; 207. School of Ginlio Romano^
Justice of Trajan. — 453. Solimena., Godfrey of Bouillon wounded; 26.
Besson, The Zuccati, Venetian workers in mosaic.

Room VI is undergoing re-arrangement.

Room VII contains less important paintings, including portraits by
Murillo^ Giorgione, //aZs(V), Schorel, Aldegrerer^ Rigaud, HolbeinCi), Bellini^
Largilliere, Terburg, Lawrence^ Ingres^ Tintoretto^ Rubens {'/), Titian^ Giirtrd,
Van der Wei/den, Bol, etc. Also the following, to the right: Copt/ of Van
der Weydeii^ Descent from the Cross; Granach, Adam and Eve; Italian
School, Madonna. — Matsys, Head; Tilborg, The blessing; Bega, Still-life;
Lievens, Child blowing suap-bubbles; Lor. di Credi, Holy Family; Poussin,
Landscape; Hogarth, Clockmaker's workshop; Borgognone, Christ and St.
John; Titian, St. Christopher; Both, Landscape; Jordaens, Merry couple;
Ribera, St. Sebastian; Pous.Hn , Fountain; Bonifazio, Madonna; Poussin,
Roman stabbing himself; Bellini, Noah; Gnido (after Titian), Truth;
Cranach, Nude woman stabbing herself; Domenicliino, St. Sebastian; Cranach,
Nymph; Van Ostade, Smokers; Goltzius, Last Judgment. — Poussin, Nymphs
and Cupids; Granet , Cloister; Ph. Wouwerman, Rustic bridge; Heda, Still-
life-, P. Belaroche, Nude woman; Style of A. Cvyp, Landscape; Matsys, Ma-
donna; Van Orley, Madonna; Decamps, Landscape.

Behind the Musee are the Protestant Church (PI. B, 2), formerly
the church of the Holy Ghost, dating in part from the 12th cent.,
and a house (to the left) with an interesting wooden balcony (15th
cent.) in the court.

On the other side of the Pont de Battant stands the 18th cent,
church of Ste. Madeleine (PI. B, 3), near which rises a bronze statue,
by Gauthier, of Claude de Jouffroy (1751-1832), one of the in-
ventors of the steamboat.

The Rue de la Prefecture, which skirts the Promenade Gran\ elle
(p. 349), intersects the Rue St. Vincent, in which are the Theatre
(PI. D, 3), the Church of Notre-Dame {IQth. and 19th cent.), and the
Vniversite. The Natural History Museum in the last is open free on
Sun. & Thurs., 1-4, on other days on application. — The Prefecture
(PI. C, D, 4) occupies the old palace of the Intendants of Franche-
Comte, dating from the 18th century. To the S.W., on the site of
a Roman circus, is the Arsenal (PI. C, 4). Farther on, between a
canal and the Doubs, is the Promenade de Chamars or the Champ-de-
Mars^ with a bronze statue of General Pajol (d. 1844), by his son,
also a general (d. 1891). Not far off are the Hospital (PI. C, 3), the
Lycee Victor-Hugo (PI. B, 3), etc.

The small but pleasant and shady Promenade Micaud (PI. C, 1)
lies at the N. or opposite end of the town from the Promenade de
Chamars, near the Gare de la Mouillere (p. 348). It affords a fine
view of the citadel and the other fortified heights round the town.

In the Mouillere Quarter (PI. C. 1) is a new and handsomely
equipped Saline Bathing Establishment with Hotel (p. 348), Casino
(adm. 50 c, 1 fr. on Sun. and special fetes), Theatre (1-31/2 fr.), etc.
The water, which is furnished by the brine springs of Miserey
(p. 348), 4 M. to the N.W., is very strongly charged with mineral
salts (baths 60 c.-3 fr.).

From Besancon to Gray and to Chalindrey, see pp. 318 and 304; to
Neuchdtel, see R. 50.

Baedekee's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 23

354

50. From Besancon to Neuchatel.

73 M. Railway to (49V2 M.) Ze Lode in 23/4-31/2 lirs. (fares 8 fr. 95,
6 fr. 5, 3 fr. 95 c). Railway from Le Locle to (23V2 M.) Neuchatel in I-IV2 lir.
(fares 5 fr. 25, 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 80 c).

Besan^on^ see p. 348. We may start from either station (p, 348).
Starting from the Gare de la Viotte, the train skirts the N. side of the
town, passes through a long tunnel, and stops again at the Gare de
la Mouillere. It then crosses the Doubs by a lofty trellis-bridge and
ascends along the slope of the rocky hill surmounted by the Citadel
of Besancon. Beyond the first of three short tunnels we obtain a good
view to the left of the Porte Taillee (p. 351). Farther on, the line
continues to ascend and affords a fine bird's-eye view of the valley.
The Fort de Montfaucon (p. 347) is conspicuous on the other side
of the valley, while the citadel long forms the background. The train
finally passes through two long tunnels, quits the valley, and tra-
verses a plateau covered with meadows, arable land, and woods. —
10 M. Mamiroile^ with a national dairy-school. — 13Y2 M. L'Ho-
pitai-du-6ros-Bols.

Fkom L'H6pital-du-Geos-Bois to Lods, 151/2 M., railway in I-IV3 lir.
(fares 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 25 c). Beyond (71/2 M.) Maizih-es this line
turns to the S.E. and enters the picturesque valley of the Loue^ passing
the following industrial places, engaged in nail-making, wire-drawing, and
the distilling of cherry-brandy and absinthe. — 8V2 M. Ornans {"Hotel des
Voyayeurs^ moderate), a small but picturesquely situated town, the birth-
place of Nicolas Perrenot de Granvella (1480-1550), chancellor of Charles V.
and father of Cardinal Granvella (p. 349). The painter Courbet (1819-77),
notorious for instigating the overthrow of the Vendome Column in 1871, was
born in the vicinity. 12 M. Montgesoye; 13^/-z M. Vuillafans, with a ruined
chateau. — I5V2 M. Lods (Hdtel de France)^ the terminus of the line. In the
neighbourhood are the stalactite grottoes of Orande-Baume. From Lods
or from the neighbouring village of Mouthier (hotels I we may visit the up-
per part of the valley and the "Source of the Loue, which issues in copious
volume in a large circular opening among the hills 6 M. to the S.E., and
flows through a deep channel between perpendicular rocks. The road as-
cending the valley leads to Pontarlier (p. 378), which is about 14 M. from
Lods (diligence in 4hrs.; fare 27.^ fr.).

I6V2 M. Etalans. From (25V2 M.) Avoudrey an omnibus plies to
(8M.) Fuans (Inn), at the head of the picturesque valley o.f the Des-
soubre. — The country becomes more hilly and picturesque. 29 M.
Longemaison. The railway traverses rocky cuttings and affords a fine
view to the left just before entering a long tunnel. — 34 M. Gilley.

From Gilley to Pontarlier, 15 M., railway in 50-70 min. (fares 2 fr.
70, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 20 c). This line ascends the valley of the Doubs. At
(5 M.) Montbenoit are some interesting remains of an Augustine abbey
(13-I6th cent.). — 15 M. Fontarlier, see p. 37S,

Beyond Gilley the train descends, and passes through a tunnel
into a rocky and wooded gorge. 3972 M. Grand-Comhe-de-Morteau.
The line runs for some distance through the valley of the Doubs.

411/2 M. Morteau (Hotel du Commerce), a watch-making town
with 3676 inhab., possessing little interest for the traveller.

An interesting route leads hence to (32 M.) St. Hippolyte (p. 346), via
the valley of the Desaoubre.

LA OHAUX-DE-FONDS. 50. Route. 355

We change at Morteau from the French to the Swiss train, which
has corridor-coaches. The train then crosses the Doubs and skirts its
banks, passing through a tunnel beyond which opens a fine view
to the right.

441/2 M. Le Lac-ou-ViUers (Hot. de France; de TUnion), the last
French station (custom-house), an industrial town with 3119 inhab.,
on the left bank of the Doubs, is the starting-point of the steamboats
to the Saut du Doubs (see below), but it is better to join the boat
at Les Brenets. — We have a fine view of the valley as we ascend.
The line passes through a short tunnel, traverses a lofty viaduct, and
threads two other longer tunnels. The road (see below) also runs
through a tunnel, below the railway, to the left.

471/2 M. Les Brenets-Col-des-Roches, the first Swiss station. An
interesting road diverges here through the Col des Roches (tunnel
and rock-galleries) to the village of Les Brenets (2^2 M. ; see below).

491/2 M. Le Locle (3020 ft.; Hotel des Trois-Rois, a pleasant and
prosperous town with upwards of 11,350 inhab., is well known for
its watches and jewellery.

From Le Locle to Les Brenets, 2V2M., railway in 1/4 lir. This narrow-
gauge line ascends to the right, passing through a tunnel, to the slatioa
of Les Fretes, whence it proceeds through wooded valleys and meadows.
Farther on, the train skirts the deep gorge of the Bied (beyond which
runs the line to Morteau, see p. 354) and passes through two tunnels into
the valley of the Doubs to the large watchmaking village of Les Brenets.
(Couronne; Lion d'Or). From the station we descend through the village
to the (15, ascent 20, min.) Pr6 du Lac^ on the *Lac des Brenets, a lake
3 M. in length, which the Doubs forms above the waterfall. A boat (3 fr.
there and back, more than 3 pers. 1 fr. each), or the small steamboat
which plies on Sundays (for large parties also on week-days) now conveys
us down the dark-green lake, gradually narrowing between precipitous
wooded sandstone rocks, and presenting a series of picturesque scenes. In
30 min. we reach the *Saut du Doubs {Hotel du Saut-du-Dotibs, with gar-
den, on the Swiss side; Hot. de la Chute, on the French side, both unpre-
tending). Visitors should first order their meal on the Swiss side, and
then cross to the French side. In about 6 min. from the French inn we
obtain a fine view from a point high above the picturesque waterfall,
which is 80 ft. in height. A new road through beautiful woods, affording
charming glimpses of the basin of the Doubs, leads back to (3 M.) Les Brenets.

541/2 M. La Chaux-de-Fonds (3260 ft.; *(?r. Hot Central;
'■'Fieur-de-Lys), a town with about 32,000 inhab., is also known for
its watches. A pleasant excursion may be made hence to the pic-
turesque Cotes du Doubs; see Baedeker s Switzerland.

The train then passes through two tunnels, the second being
more than 3/^ M. long. — 57 M. Les Convers. For the railway to
Bienne, see Baedekers Switzerland. — Immediately beyond Les
Convers we pass through another tunnel, 2 M. long. 60 M. Hants- Ge-
net;€ys(3140ft.). Beyond (621/2 M.) Geneveys-sur-Coffranei^llO ft.)
we have a magnificent* View (right) of Lake Neuchatel and the Alps.
— 661/2 M. Chambrelien (2296 ft.), beautifully situated almost per-
pendicularly over the valley of the Reuse. The train here turns back
towards Neuchatel, finally running parallel with the lines to Pontar-
lier and Lausanne. — 70 M. Corcelles. *View to the right. Tunnel.

23*

356 Route 51. SALINS. From Besan^on

73 M. Neucha,tel (1433 ft. ; '*H6tel Bellevue; Grand-Hotel du Lac ;
des Alpes et Terminus^ at the station), a town of 18,000 inhab., the
chief attractions of which are the old Church, the Chateau on the hill
above the town, and the Picture Gallery on the lake. For details, see
Baedeker's Switzerland.

51. From Besancon (Belfort) to Bourg (Lyons)*

95V2 M. Railway in 33/4-71/2 lirs. (fares 17 fr. 45, 11 fr. 80, 7 fr. 65 c).
From Besancon to Lyons, 147 M., railway in 53/4-12 hrs. (fares 26 fr. 65 c . ,
18 fr., 11 fr. 80 c).

BesanQon, see p. 348. We follow the line to Dole and Dijon as
far as (41/2 M.) Franois (p. 347). Beyond (71/2 M.) Montf errand the
train crosses two bridges over the Doubs. 9 M. Torpes. Farther on
we cross the Rhone-Rhine Canal and the river, skirting a height
surmounted by Osselle, the 'Auricella' of the Romans, the interesting
stalactite grottoes of which may be visited from (13^/2 M.) Byans.
18 M. Liesle. At (21 M.) Arc-et-Senans we join the line from Dijon
to Switzerland via Mouchard and Pontarlier (R. 54).

25'/2 M. Mouchard (Buffet; Hotel de la Gare), also on the line
from Dijon to Neuchatel (R. 54).

Fkom MouciiAKD TO Salins, 5 M., railway in 12-16 min. (fares 90, 60,
40 c.). — Salins ( Orand-Hoiel des Bains; Hotel des Messageries ; Hdtel du
Sauvage), a town with 5600 inbab., is situated in the narrow gorge of the
Furieuse and dominated by the hills of Belin, St. Andre, and Poupet, the
lirst two of which are fortilied. As its name implies, it possesses several
saline springs, of which one only is used medicinally, while the others are
reserved for the manufacture of salt.

Soon after leaving the station we reach a promenade planted with fine
trees, to the left of which stands a Monument to the memory of those who
fell at the battles of Salins, 25-27th Jan., 1871,

The Bathing Establishment (bath 1-2 fr., swimming-bath 3/4 fr.-, towels
10-50 c.) lies farther on in the same direction, near the centre of the
town, which consists of little more than one long street. The establish-
ment, which is unpretending in appearance, is admirably lifted up inside,
and contains a swimming-bath. 'Ihe waters of the cold medicinal spring
(40 c. per litre) are strongly impregnated with chloride of sodium and hro-
niide of potassium, and contain 30 grains of mineral ingredients per litre.

The Place d'Armes, adjoining the Bath Establishment and the Hotel
de Ville, is embellished with a bronze statue, by Perraud, of General Cler
(1814-59), who was killed at Magenta, and with a Fountain dating from
1720. — The Salt Works lie to the right, beyond the Place d Armes; vis-
itors are admitted on Thurs. at any hour and on Sun., 1-4. Opposite is
the Place du Vigneron, with a Fountain decorated with the ligure of a
vintager, by Max Claudet (1864), a native of Salins.

The church of 8t. Anatoile, on the slope of Mont Belin, overlooking
the town, is reached from the Place du Vigneron by ascending to the right.
It is an interesting Transitional building, with fine doors of carved wood
in the (lorid Gothic style, and has been skilfully restored. — The Rue
des Claristes descends hence to the right to the Place St. Jean, in which
is the College, with a former church now containing the Mtisce (adm. on
Sun., 1.30-4, to strangers un other days also).

Both the Mont Belin (2125 ft.), to the E. of Salins, and the Mont St. Andri
(1920 ft.), to the W., command good views, but a still liner point of view
ia Mont Poupet {2S0O ft. : I'/i hr.), which rises to the X., near the railway.
— From Salins an interestinu: excursion mav be made to the Source of the
Lison, 8V2 M. to the N.E. (oiiiu, in 2 hrs., I'/a fr. ; carr. 12-16 fr.).

I

to Bourg. POLIGNY. 51. Route. 357

Beyond Moucliard our line diverges to the right from the railway
to Pontarlier, the viaduct (p. 378) of which is seen to the left, and
traverses a hilly district, at the base of the outliers of the Jura. —
30 M. Arbois^ the birthplace of General Plchegru (p. 351), is a town
with 4240 inhab., situated in the pleasant valley of the Cuisance,
which is noted for its excellent wine. It is also a station on the
railway to Pontarlier (see p. 378). — Beyond (36 M.) Grozon, with
salt-works, the railway to Dole (p. 377) diverges to the right.

38 M. Poligny (Hotel Central; Hotel de France), a town with
4320 inhab., about 3/4 M. from the station, is dominated by a rocky
height crowned with the scanty ruins of an old castle. On enter-
ing the town proper we see the Grand' Rue to the right, and
the Rue du College to the left, two parallel streets leading to the
Place Nationale. Adjoining the former street, to the right, is the
small Promenade du Crochet, with a bust of the historian Chevalier
by Claudet. To the left is the Hotel de Ville, containing the public
library and a small museum. In the Place Nationale is a statue
of General Travot (1767-1836), a native of Poligny, a reproduc--
tion of the mediocre statue by Maindron at Roche-sur-Yon. Farther
on is the Eglise du Montvillard, with a fine alabaster reredos of
the 16th century. — Returning from the Place by the Rue du Col-
lege we pass the Sous- Prefecture (established in an old convent)
and the early -Gothic church of St. Hipp olyte, with a Romanesque
portal and chapels of the 13-15th centuries. The first chapel to the
right contains a small altar-piece, and the choir some good ancient
and modern wood-carving. — Branch-railway to Dole, see p. 378.

411/2 M. St. Lothain, with an ancient abbey-church; 44^/2 M,
Passenans. Tunnel. — 47^/2 M. Domblans -Voiteur.

About 472 M. to the S.E. is Baume-les- Messieurs, witli tlie ruins of the
abbey of that name. The church, partly Romanesque and partly Gothic,
contains a triptych of the 16th cent, and tombs of the 14-15th centuries.

Beyond Domblans we see, on a hill to the right, the Chateau du
Pin (13th and 15th cent.). 51 Y2 M. Montain-Lavigny.

56 M. Lons-le-Saunier (JBw/fei; Hotel de Geneve, Rue du Jura 17;
Hotel de VEurope, Grande Place), an industrial town with 12,116 in-
hab., was the Ledo Salinarius of the Romans, and is now the capi-
tal of the Departement du Jura.

The Rue Gambetta leads from the station towards the town,
passing to the left of the Prefecture, which occupies an old Bene-
dictine convent. The adjoining church of St. Desire contains no-
thing of interest except a Romanesque crypt beneath the choir, some
polychrome paintings, stained glass, and fine modern altars. Farther
on, the Rue St. Desire crosses the small river of La Valliere and
ends at the Grande Place, in the centre of the town, which is em-
bellished with a fountain, surmounted by a bronze statue, by Etex,
of General Lecourhe (1759-1815), a native of Lons-le-Saunier. At
the other end of the Place is the Theatre, a large building designed

358 Route 51. LONS-LE-SAUNIER.

by Soufllot and originally intended for a church. Behind it is the Ptoce
de la Petile-Chevalerie , also with a fountain, near the Seminary,
and still farther on, near the Palais de Justice, is the fine Prome-
nade de la Chevalfrie, adorned with a bronze statue, by Bartholdi, of
Rouget de VIsle (1760-1836) , writer and composer of the 'Marseil-
laise', who was born near Lons-le-Saunier.

The Rue du Commerce, which begins at the Grande Place and
is flanked with arcades, leads to the Hotel de Ville^ containing a
Museum, of some importance, open to the public on Thurs. and Sun.,
2-4, except in vacation, and always open to strangers.

Ground-Floor. Sculptures, mainly plaster-casts of modern works. —
Room I chiefly contains works by Perrawd, a native of the Jura (see below),
who remained faithful to classic traditions. Room II contains works by
Max Claudet (p. 356), a painting of Silenus after Ribera, etc. — In Room III
are the remainder of Perrauofs works , other plaster-casts, two marble
sculptures, etc.

First Floor. Room I contains small Egyptian, Celtic, Gallic, Roman,
Merovingian, and Prehistoric Antiquities; a Natural History Collection: a
small Etlmograpbical Collection; Armour; Medals; a pretty marble statuette
of Mme. Dubarry; and other objects. — Room II. Pictures (MS. catalogue).
No. 142. Garracci^ Adam and Eve; b^Q. Brueghel the Elder ^ Flemish village
fete, Massacre of the Innocents; 82. f/nA-wowra J/asfer (Flemish?), Martyrdom
of St. Peter; 121. P. della VeccMa^ Rosamond forced to drink from her fa-
ther's skull; 86. Unknown Master^ Judith with the head of Holoferncs; 3.
Giordano^ Rape of Europa; 79. Mierevelt^ Portrait of a woman; 18^ Leflvre^
Potiphar's wife (1885). — The museum also contains a few other works of
art, medals, curiosities ''of various kinds, engravings, and inscriptions.

Behind the Hotel de Yille lies the Place Perraud, with a bronze
Bmt of Perraud (1819-76), the sculptor, by Claudet, and the Hos-
pital, a building of the 18th cent., preceded by a fine iron-railing.

The salt-works ('salines') from which the town derives its name
have been superseded by a Saline Bath Establishment, with a casino,
situated in a large park, facing the Promenade de la Chevalerie
(see above). The waters are strongly sodio- chlorinated, and are effi-
cacious in cases of rickets, scrofula, anaemia, etc.

About 11/4 M. to the W. are the salt-works of Montmorot , dominated
by the Montciel, the summit of which commands a fine view. — From
Lons-le-Saunier a 'courrier' (fare 31/2 fr.) plies daily to (22 M. in 41/4 hrs.)
Si. Jvlien-sur-Suran (Hot. du Midi), a small town with a trade in mules,
by a picturesque road passing St. Laurent-la- Roche (6 M.), Cressia (12 M.),
and Gignij (ITV2 M.). — Railways to Chdlon-sur-SaCne, Champagnole , St.
Claude, etc., see Baedeker''s South-Eastern France.

Farther on, our line skirts the Montciel, and leaves the railway
to Chalon on the right. 59 '/2 M. Gevingey, with a chateau of the
17th cent. ; 62 M. Ste. Agnes ; 65 M. Beaufort, with the ruins of a
12th cent, chateau; 69 M. Cousance; 71V2M- Cuisenux , a small
town at the foot of a picturesque group of rocks; 77 M. St. Amour,
a small and ancient town, the Junction of a line to Dijon (see
p. 376); 8O72 ^I- Coligny, the birthplace of the celebrated Admiral,
killed in the Massacre of St. Bartholomew; 85 M. Moulin-des-Ponts.

For (95V2 M.) Bourg (Hotel de I'Europe), with its famous Church
of Brou, celebrated in Matthew Arnolds poem, and the railways to
Macon, I.yons, and Geneva, see Baedekers South-Eastern France.

i

359

52. From Paris to Dijon.

a. By the Direct Line.

195V2 M. Railway in 51/4-11 hrs. (fares 35 fr. 40, 23 fr. 90, 15 fr. 60 c).
We start from the Gare de Lyon (PI. G, 2S; p. 1). See the Map at p. 100.

Besides the direct line to Montereau via Fontainebleau (49 M. in lV4-2-Vt
hrs. •, fares 7 fr. 85, 5 fr 95, 3 fr. 90 c.) there is a new line vid Corheil (58V2 M.
in 3-31/2 hrs.; 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 10, 4 fr. 65 c), diverging from the former at
Villeneuve-St-Georges (see below). — For farther details as far as Fon-
tainebleau and Corbeil, see Baedeker s Paris.

Near (3 M.) Charenton the train crosses the Marne, not far
from its confluence with the Seine, Some distance beyond (4 M.)
Maisons-Alfort we cross the Ligne de Grande-Ceinture de Paris.

91/2 M. Villeneuve-St-Georges^ with a large station, is situated
at the confluence of the Yeres and the Seine.

From Villenedve-St-Georges to Montereau via Corbeil, 49M, railway
in 23/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 95. 3 fr. 90 c.). Our line turns to the right and
crosses the Y^res- Beyond (1^/4 M.) Draveil- Vigneux it crosses the Seine and
runs parallel with the Orle'ans line. — 41/2 M. Juvisy-sur-Orge i\). I^i). Our
line now ascends the valley of the Seine. — 7 M. Ris-Orangis. On the
opposite bank are Champrosay and the Forest of Sinart. — 91/2 M. Evry-
Petit-Bonrg. To the left are Decauville's iron-works. — IIV4 Corbeil
(p. 398); to Montargis., see p. 399. Our line passes under the Montargis
railway, and beyond (13 M.) Villab& and a bridge over the Essonne enlers a
tunnel, i/s M. in length, finally emerging on the picturesquely wooded left
bank of the Seine. Three small stations are passed. — 26'/2 M. Melun
(see below). — The railway now crosses the Seine and ascends the right
bank. — 30 M. Ghartrelles has two chateaux. From (32V'; M.) Fontnine-le-Port
a road leads through the forest to (6 M.) Fontainebleau (p. 360). 421/2 M.
Vttlames-sur-Seine-Samoreau lies only 1^/4 M. from the station of Fontaine-
bleau and 11/4 M. from the Tour Denecourt. 43 M Champagne, 1/2 M. from
Thomery (p. 361). We cross the Seine. — 49 M. Montereau (see p. 361).

The line next crosses the Seine (suspension-hridge) and the Yeres,
the beautiful green valley ofwhich is seen to the left. 11 M. Montgeron.
Ueyond (13^2 M^-) Brunoy the train crosses a viaduct 410 yds. long
and 105 ft. in height, commanding a beautiful view, and then
enters the plain of La Brie. — Near Melun the Seine is again
crossed.

28 M. Melun (Grand- Monarque ; du Commerce)^ a town with
13,640 inhab., situated on the Seine, is the capital of the Deparfe-
ment de Seine-et-Marne. The chief buildings of interest are the
church of Notre-Dame, dating from the 11th cent, (to the right of
an island which we traverse in order to reach the principal quarter
of the town), and the church of St. Aspais^ of the 14th cent., on
the other bank. In the upper part of the town, to the left, are the
Prefecture and the Belfry of St. Bnrthelemy^ near which is a Mon-
ument to Pasteur (1822-90). A little to the right of St. Aspais is
the Hotel de Ville^ a handsome Renaissance building, in the court
of which is a modern statue of Amyot (1513-93), the author, a
native of Melun.

Eeyond Melun we see the Chateau de Vaux-le-Penil on the left.
Then, after passing through a short tunnel and affording pictur-

360 Route 62. FONTAINEBLEAU. From Paris

esque glimpses of the valley of the Seine (to the left), the train
reaches (31 '/2M.) Bois-le-Roi and enters the forest of Fontainebleau.

36V2 M. Fontainebleau (Buffet). — Hotels. De Fkance et d'Ang-
LETERRE, DE l'Europe (arrange prices on ordering) ; Aigle Noir, R., L.,
& A. 4-6, B. 11/4, dej. 4, D. 5. omn. '/z fr. ■, Lion d'Oe; de la Chancellerie ;
Cadran Bleu, E., L., & A. 21/2-5, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8-10, omn.
V2 fr-; DU NoRD et de la Poste, R., L.. & A. 2V2-3, dej. 2V2, D. 3, pens.
71/2-8, omn. 1/2 ff.

Fontainebleau, a town with 14.000 inhab., about IY4M. from
the station (electric tramway, 30 c), is famous for its palace and its
forest.

The *Palace, open every day from 10 to 5 in summer and from
11 to 4 in winter, dates chiefly from the reigns of Francis I. and
Henri IV, and was the favourite residence of Napoleon I. Its inter-
ior, decorated in the style of Giulio Romano, is deservedly admired.
Part of it is now occupied by President Faure. The custodian who
conducts visitors over the palace gives all necessary explanations.
The parts to be visited comprise the Chapel, with a ceiling painted
by Fremmei (d. 1619); the apartments of Napoleon I.; those of Marie
Antoinette, particularly her bedroom ; the Galerie de Diane, or de la
Bibliotheque , adorned with paintings of mythological scenes by
Blondel (d. 1853) and Abel de Pujol (d. 1861); the magnificent
Salons; the *Galerie Henri II, or Salle des Fetes, decorated by
Primaticcio (d. 1570) and Nic. dell' Abbate (d. 1571) ; the Galerie
Franrois I, painted by Rosso Rossi (d. 1541); and the Apparte-
ments des Reines Meres, occupied by Pius VII. when a prisoner at
Fontainebleau (1812-14).

Behind the palace, to the right, are the Gardens, with sheets of
ornamental water. To the left, beyond the Cour de la Fontaine,
which we traverse in order to reach the gardens, is the Porte Doric,
an entrance to the Cour Ovale or Donjon, one of the most inter-
esting parts of the palace on account of its fine Renaissance archi-
tecture, but unfortunately not open to the public.

The *FoKEST OF Fontainkbleau, which covers an area of 42,500
acres, is justly regarded as the most beautiful in France. The ground
is of a very varied character, the rock-formation consisting chiefly
of sandstone, which yields most of the paving-stones of Paris. There
are many picturesque walks and gorges throughout the forest, such
as the Gorges de Fmnchnrd and d'Aprerr\ont. The former are the
nearer, about 3 M. to the N.W. of the town, and are reached by the
Rue de France and the Route d'Etampes , to the left of which they
lie. It is advisable to go by carriage as far as the Restaurant de
Franchard. An excursion to the Gorges d'Apremont takes double the
time ; they lie to the left of the Route de Paris, which also begins
at the end of the Rue de France. — The finest point of view near
Fontainebleau is the *Tour Denecourt, which is reached in ^/2 br.
from the railway-station. We ascend the road to the left by the
restaurants at the station ; after 20 min., where the wood begins, we

to Dijon. MONTEREAU. 52. Route. 361

enter it to the left, and follow the broad, sandy path leading to the
height on which the tower is situated. It is reached from the town
hy the Rue Grande and the Chemin de Fontaine, to the right of
which it stands. From this height we command a panorama of
180 M. in circumference.

A little heyond the station of Fontainehleau the train traverses
a curved viaduct, 65 ft. high, and passes the village of Avon (to the
right). — 40 M. Thomery. The village lies to the left and is cel-
ebrated for its grapes, called Chasselas de Fontainehleau. We now
see, to the left, the curved viaduct of Moret.

41 Y2 M. Moret (Buffet; Hotel du Cheval Noir)^ a small and
ancient town, picturesquely situated on the Loing^ about 3/4 M. to
the left of the station. At each end of the Rue Grande , which
traverses the old town, are Gothic Gateways^ the remains of the
former fortifications. In the same street, to the right, Nos. 28
and 30, is an interesting House in the Renaissance style. Immedi-
ately beyond the second gate we obtain a picturesque view of the
banks of the Loing. From this point also we see the remains of the
Donjon, of the 12th cent., now used as a private house. In the same
neighbourhood is the Church , a fine edifice of the 12th and 15th
centuries. The portal is richly adorned with Flamboyant sculptures,
and the apse has three rows of windows, those in the middle row
being small and round, in the Burgundian Gothic style. Fine organ
screen. — For the Bourbonnais Railway, see p. 395.

Our train now crosses the valley of the Loing, by a viaduct, 65 ft.
high, commanding a fine view. 43 M. St. Mammes, at the confluence
of the Loing and the Seine.

49 M. Montereau (Buffet ; *H6tel du Orand-Monarque, R, 2,
dej. 23/4, D. 3fr,', Cheval Blanc; de Lyon, near the station; Cafe
des Oiseaux) , an ancient and industrial town with 8000 inhab., at
the confluence of the Yonne and the Seine. The Church, near the
end of the Grande-Rue , is a fine building with double aisles , dat-
ing from the 13-15th cent., with a portal completed during the Re-
naissance period. The interior contains some interesting clustered
columns and some fine canopied niches (outer N. aisle). The neigh-
bouring bridge, on which is an inscription, was in 1419 the scene
of the assassination of Jean sans Peur, Duke of Burgundy, by the
partisans of the Dauphin, afterwards Charles VII. On the same
bridge is an equestrian statue, in bronze, of Napoleon I., erected in
commemoration of the victory won here over the Wurtembergers in
1814. The statue is by Pajol, son of the general of that name, who
distinguished himself at this battle. The Chateau de Surville, com-
manding a fine view, rises from a height on the right bank.

From Montereau a brancli-line runs to (I81/2 M.) Flamboin (Nogent-sur-
Seine, p. 294); and another (narrow-gauge) to (28 M.) Souppes (p. 395). The
latter passes (91/2 M.) Voulx, 5 M. to the N.W. of Vallery, which has two
chateaux and a church containing the fine tomb of Henri de Conde
(d. 1588), father of the Grand Conde.

362 Route 52. SENS. From Paris

Beyond Montereau the train ascends the left bank of the Yonne,
passing three small stations before reaching Sens.

70 M. Sens. — Hotels. De Paris, R. 31/2, B. IV2, dej. 3 fr. ; de l'Eci',
R., L., & A. 3-4, B. 3/4-I1 dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr., both in the Rue de Lorraine;
DE LA Gare, at the station. — Sens has two R'lilway Stations : Grande
Oare (Buffet), to the W., for all trains, and Sens-Est or Sens-Ville, to the N.,
on the Orleans and Troyes lines, connected by a Tramway (15 c. ) travers-
ing the town. Hotel- Omnibuses also meet the trains.

Sens^ a town with 15,000 inhab., is situated on the Yonne, two
arms of which are crossed between the Main Station and the town.

Sens was the ancient capital of the Senones , one of the principal
tribes of Gaul, and was mode metropolis of the 4th Lugdunensis on the
division of Gaul into seventeen provinces under the Emp. Valens. Ii
the 8th cent, it became the seat of an archbishop, whose title was Pri-
mate of Gaul and Germany. Several church-councils have been held here,
among which was that in which St. Bernard brought about the condemn-
ation of Abelard. Sens entered with enthusiasm into the struggles of
the League, massacred its Protestants in 1562, resisted Henri IV in 1590,
and did not submit until 1594. It sustained a fortnight's siege in 1814,
and was occupied by the Germans for four months and a half in 1870-71.

The cathedral of'^'St. Etienne, about 1 M. in a direct line from
the station, is the most interesting building in the town and is said
to occupy the site of a heathen temple. It dates from different
periods and has been repeatedly restored, but the predominating
style is 12th cent. Gothic. Begun in 1124 in the Romanesque style,
the nave and choir (except tlie absidal chapel) were completed in
1168 by William of Sens, who afterwards built the choir of Can-
terbury Cathedral and practically introduced the Pointed style into
England. The W. front, which is somewhat severe in style, is pierced
with three portals, adorned with numerous fine sculptures, now un-
fortunately much injured. The subjects are drawn from the lives cf
St. Stephen, the Virgin, and John the Baptist. The facade is flanked
with spireless towers. That to the left, whicb rises no higher than
the roof of the church, dates from the 12th cent, and is relieved by
Romanesque arches. The tower to the right, which is a story higher,
dates from the 13th and 16th cent, and is adorned with a figure of
Christ in an attitude of benediction, between two adoring angels,
and ten statues of benefactors of the church, restored by Maindron.
The tower also contains two ancient bells, weighing respectively 16
tons 7 cwt. and 13 tons 13 cwt. The lateral portals to the S. and the
N. are of richer architecture, the transepts having been added in
1490-1504 hy Martin Chambiges. They are embellished with splendid
rose-windows, but the niches for statuettes are now empty.

Interior. The aisles flanking the large navo have Romanesque windows
and side-chapels entered (with the exception of the f'^r^t two (»n the right)
by Romanesque arches. The 2nd Chapel on the riL'ht has a stained-plass
window (Lt'gend of St. Eutropius) by Jean Cousin (p. 363), executed in his
youth (1530). In the nave and choir pillars alternate with double columns.
Against the 5th pillar on the >«. side is a finely carved Gothic altar-piece,
with two statuettes from anither source. The triforium of the nave and
choir also deserves notice, but the windows are rather h w. Some of
the "Stained Glass Windoits, the oldest of which (N. aisle of choir) date from
the 12th cent., represent scenes from the life of St. Thomas of Canterbury.

i

to Dijon. SENS. 52. Route. 363

Those in the choir itself date from the 13th century. The high-altar and
its canopy, supported by red marble columns, which jar with the style of
the church, are by Servandoni (1742). In the first apsidal chapel to the
left are sculptures collected from other parts of the church. Among these is
the *Tomb of the Dauphin {6. 1756), father of Louis XVI., who was buried in
the choir. It is adorned with white marble figures representing Religion,
Immortality, Time, and Conjugal Love, genii, etc., by Guillaume Coustou
the Younger. The same chapel contains Bas-reliefs from the tomb of Car-
dinal Duprat, archbishop of Sens (1525-35), and marble Statues of Jac-
ques and Jean Duperron, archbishops of Sens in the 17th century. In the
apsidal chapel is a fine Irfth cent, altar-piece by Hermann, representing the
Martyrdom of St. Savinien, the first Christian missionary to Sens. In the
chapel to the right is another window (Tiburtine Sit)yl) by J. Cousin. The
Lady Chapel, to the right of the choir, contains an Assumption by Restout
(d. 1768), and a figure of the Virgin, dating from the 14th century.

Under a graceful arcade on this side of the choir, to the right, is the
entrance to a fine hall, roofed with barrel-vaulting, containing the Trea-
sur)/, which is said to be the richest in France (adm. 50 c., 2-5 pers. 1 fr. ;
apply to the sacristan). Its treasures comprise various coffers and ancient
reliquaries, among which axe a beautiful ivory cofl'er dating from the
12th cent., and a fine modern reliquary containing a large piece of the
True Cross; a large ivory comb belonging to St. Lupus, Bishop of Sena (at
the beginning of the 7th cent.); four splendid pieces of tapestry of the 15th
cent.; a fine figure of Christ in ivory, by Girardon; the coronation robes
of Charles X.; and the sacerdotal vestments of Thomas Becket, who found
refuge at Sens in 1164.

To the right of the cathedral is the Officialite^ dating from the
13th cent. , and well restored by Viollet-le-Duc. It has double
trefoil windows, surmounted by rose- windows, and the walls
terminate in battlements. On the groundfloor is an Archaeological
Museum (fragments from the cathedral), and on the first floor is
the large and vaulted Salle Synodale, a fine specimen of a Gothic
apartment. The dungeons are in good preservation. The Officialite
is connected with the archhishop's palace by a structure of the Re-
naissance period, through the fine gateway of which we reach the S.
portal of the cathedral.

In a small square to the left, near the portal of the cathedral, is
the hronze statue of Baron Thenard (d. 1857), the chemist, by Droz.

We now follow the Rue de la Re'publique towards the S., pass-
ing the quaint old timber Maison d^ Abraham, at the corner of the
Rue Jean-Cousin, and reach the Boulevards. A square here is em-
bellished with a Statue of Jean Cousin (d. ca. 1589), the painter, by
Ohapu (1880). To the left, on the boulevard, is the 14th cent. Po-
terne du Midi or des Quatre- Mares., a picturesque fragment of the
old fortifications, inserted in a Roman wall.

The Hospital., in the suburb of St. Savinien, occupies a former abbey ;
visitors are admitted to the 13th cent, chapel (St. Jean) on Mon., 12-8, and
Thurs. & Sun., 2-3. — The church of St. Savinien-, farther on, was rebuilt
in 1068, but retains a crypt of an earlier date.

The Hotel de Yille, in the Rue Rigault, contains the Musee and
the Library. The most interesting part of the former (open daily, 1
to 4 or 5; Sun. & Thurs. free) is the Lapidary Museum., consisting of
Gallo-Roman sculptures, architectonic fragments, etc. The Collection
Artistique, on the first floor, contains paintings, sculptures, and cu-

364 Route 52. JOIGNY. From Paris

riosities, the chief of which is a valuahle ivory diptych (2nd or 5th
cent.), used since the 13th cent, as the binding for a missal known
as the 'Office de I'Ane'.

Railway to Orleans via Montargis, see pp. 274 and 395.

From Sens to Teotes (Chalons), 42 M., railway in 2-2^/4 trs. (fares
7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 30 c). This line, a continuation of the Orle'ans
railway, has two stations at Sens : Sens-Lpon, on the main line, and Sens-
Ville, to the N. It ascends the valley of the Vanne, thirteen streams from
which river feed the principal aqueduct of Paris. — The church of (I6V2M.)
Villeneuve-V Archeveque has a fine 13th cent, portal. 25 M. Aix • en - Othe-
Villemaur, the station for two towns, the former containing the remains of
some Gallo-Roman haths, and the latter a church in which are a fine
Renaissance screen and other works of art. Beyond (37 M.) Torvilliers the
line quits the valley of the Vanne, ascends the chalky plateaux of Cham-
pagne, and descends again into the valley of the Seine. 40 M. Troyes-Preize,
a suburban station, where passengers for Chalons-sur-Marne change car-
riages. — 42 M. Troyes (Gare de TEst), see p. 295.

Beyond Sens the line skirts the broad Yonne, which is flanked by
vine-clad hills. — 79 M. ViUeneuve-sur-Yonne (Dauphin ; Bon La-
boureur), a town with 4877 inhab., possesses two Gothic gateways
and a church of the 13th cent., with a Renaissance portal. — 84 M.
St. Julien-du-Sault, a small town with a church of the 13-16th cent.,
containing some magnificent stained-glass windows.

9OV2 M. Joigny (Due de Bourgogne; Poste), the Joviniacum of
the Romans, a town with 6290 inhab., on the Yonne, is noted for
its wines of the Cote St. Jacques. It contains three interesting
churches. — The train now crosses the Yonne, and ascends the val-
ley of the Arman^on.

96 M. Laroche (Buffet, with R. ; Hot. de la Reunion) lies at
the junction of the Canal de Bourgogne with the Yonne. This canal,
150 M. long, unites the Seine with the Rhone via the Saone, pene-
trating the watershed of the first two rivers by a tunnel over 6 M.
in length, near the source of the Arman^on. The construction of
the canal was begun in the 18th cent., but it dates chiefly from
1832-34. — For the Morvan railways (Auxerre, etc.), see R. 55.

From Laroche to L'Isle-Angelt. 46 M., a local railway ascending the
winding valley of the Serein. — IL M. Pontigny, with the remains of a
celebrated Cistercian abbey, where Thomas Becket spent two years of his
exile. Langton, Archbishop of Canterbury, banished by King John, and
other English prelates have also sought a retreat within its walls. The
most interesting part of it is the Church., begun and completed in the second
half of the 12th cent, and of great purity of style. — 20 31 Chablis, a pukiII
town noted for its white wine. At (45 M.) 'LWsle-sur- Serein we join the
line from Nuits-sous-Ravieres to Avallon (see p. 365). 46 M. UIsle-Angily.

The railway to Dijon continues to ascend the valley of the Ar-
man^on and frequently skirts the canal. 102 M.Brienon. — 107'/2M.
St-Florentin-Vergigny is the station for St. Florentin (Hot. de la
Porte-Dilo), ^/^M. to the left. St. Florentin has a handsome church
of the 15th cent., containing bas-reliefs, stained-glass windows, a
Renaissance choir-screen, and other interesting works of art.

From St. Florentin to Troves., starling from a special station, see p. 800.

122 m. Tonnerre (Buffet; Lion d'Or), the 'Castrum Ternodo-

I

to Dijon. MONTBARD. 52. Route. 365

reuse' of the Romans, a commercial and industrial town with 4750
inhab., largely engaged in the wine-trade, is situated on the slope
of a hill on the bank of the Armangon. The Hospital, dating from
the end of the 13th cent., comprizes a Library and Muse'e and a
huge chapel with a vaulted wooden roof, and contains the tombs of
the foundress, Marguerite de Bourgogne, Queen of Sicily, by Bridan
(1826), and of Louvois, minister of Louis XIV., by Girardon and
Desjardins (17th cent.). On the summit of the hill is the remark-
able church of St. Pierre., of the Gothic and Renaissance periods.
One of the curiosities of the town is the Fosse Dionne, a copious
spring issuing from the side of a perpendicular mass of rock at the
foot of the hill, and at once forming a small stream, which flows
into the Arman^'on.

127 M. Tanlay possesses a * Chateau which belonged to the Co-
ligny family and was frequently the meeting-place of the Huguenot
leaders. The chateau, which is one of the finest in Burgundy, was
rebuilt in the second half of the 16th century. It consists of two
parts separated by a moat 78 ft. wide (adm. with written permit
from the steward).

The train now threads a tunnel 1 M. long, and beyond (131 M.)
Lezinnes it crosses the Arman(;on and the canal and passes through
another tunnel ^/^ M. long.

136 M. Ancy-le-Franc, to the left, possesses important iron-forges
and blast-furnaces. Its*Chdteau^ dating from the 16-1 7th cent, was
begunby Primaticcio andis one of the most beautiful in France. Many
of the rooms are decorated with paintings by Niccolo delf Abbate and
other pupils of Primaticcio.

140 M. Nuits-sous-Ravitres^ a village formerly fortified.

From Nuits-sous-Rcavierea a brancli-line runs to (22V2 M.) Chdtillon-
sur-Seine (p. 367), and another to Avallon (p. 383).

At (I441/2 M.) Aisy the railway quits the valley of the Arman-
5on and enters that of its tributary, the Brenne.

151 M.Monthard (de VEcu; '*de la Gare), a small and pictur-
esquely situated town , was the birthplace of Buffon (1707-88), of
whom a bronze statue has been erected in the park. The chief part
standing of the ancient chateau, pulled down in 1742, is the donjon
of the 14th cent., 130 ft. high. — About 3 M. to the S. are the im-
posing ruins of the Chateau de Montfort, which belonged for a time
to the Princes of Orange and was rebuilt in 1626.

I59Y2 M. Les Laumes (Buffet; Hot. de la Gare). Railway to
Semur and Avallon, see p. 384.

About IV2 M. to the S.E. is Mont Auxois (1370 ft.), with the village
of Alise-Ste-Reine. Mont Auxois occupies an important strategical po-
sition at the head of three valleys, and it is extremely probable that Alise-
Sainte-Reine occupies the site of the Roman Alesia, v?here Vercingetorix
was finally conquered by Ctesar in 52 B.C. A bronze Statue of the Gallic
chief, of whom it has been said that Ho take rank among the greatest of
men he only needed another enemy and another historian', was erected
here in 1865 ; the statue, executed by Millet, is 21 ft. high (without the ped-

366 Route 52. DARCEY. From Paris

estal) and is visible from the railway (to the right). Alise-Ste-Reine
also possesses mineral springs, and pilgrimages are still made to its shrine.
The existence of Ste. Reine, a Roman virgin martyr, has been clearly dis-
proved, and the nature of the half-Pagan ceremonies formerly indulged
in during the pilgrimage on Sept. 7th makes it probable that she is merely
the personification of Gaul conquered by Ca?sar. — About 3 M. farther
on is Flavigny^ with interesting mediseval remains, including relics of an
abbey founded in the 8th cent, and a church of the 13th and 15th centuries.
In the latter is a magnificent choir-screen dating from the 16th century.
From Flavigny an omnibus runs to (8 M.) Darcey (see below).

About 4 M. to the N.E. of Les Laumes is the Chateau de Bussy-Rabutin,
founded in the 12th cent., but partly rebuilt and richly decorated in the
interior in the ITth cent, by the satirical writer, Count Roger de Bussy-
Rabutin, cousin of Madame de Sevigne. It is surrounded with water
and flanked by four large towers. The paintings in the various apartments,
some of which are by Mignard and Lebrun, represent allegorical subjects,
the kings of France, and famous men and women. The chapel contains
a Madonna by Andrea del Sarto(?), a St. James by Murillo, and two paint-
ings by Poussin.

From Les Laumes to Epinac, 46V2 M., railway in 3-3V2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 40,
5 fr. 65, 3 fr. 70 c). — 31/2 M. Pouillenay, junction for Semur (p. 384). 24 M.
Fouilly-en-Auxois is situated at the N. W. end of a tunnel, 2 M. in length,
by which the Canal de Bourgogne passes from the basin of the Rhone into
that of the Seine. — 34 M. Arnay-Ie-Duc (Poste), on the Arronx, is a town
of 2644 inhab., where the Huguenots under Colignv gained a victory in
1570. It is the junction for Beaune and Saulieu (p. 389). 46*/2 M. Epinac
(p. 391).

The line now quits the Brenne and the Canal de Bourgogne.

1641/2 M. Darcey. Omnibus to Flavigny, see above. — To the
left is the picturesque ruined chateau of Salmalse. 173 M. Verrey.

About 41/2 M. to the N.E. is the small village of St. Germain-la-Feuille^
near which are the Sources of the Seine. A monument was erected here
in 1867 including a figure of Seqtiana., the river deity, by Jourt'roy. At
this village were found the remains of a Gallo-Roman temple and some
antiquities, now in the museum at Dijon.

The line rises rapidly as it passes from the basin of the Seine
into that of the Rhone. Beyond (179 M.) BiaUy-Bas, with a ruined
chateau, the train passes through a tunnel 2'/2 M. long (fine views
before and after it), ventilated by fifteen air-shafts, and descends
again rapidly toward Dijon. Between this point and Dijon the
country is somewhat wild and rugged, and the line traverses numer-
ous cuttings, tunnels, and viaducts over deep and narrow valleys,
called here, as in Devonshire, Combes (comp. Welsh Cwm). — AVe
pass over a viaduct 86 ft. high, and through a tunnel 360 yds. long,
before reaching (184 M.) Maluin^ with its ruined chateau. Beyond
that town we cross the Lee Viaduct , 75 ft. high, and then obtain
a fine view, to the right, of the valley of the 0«r/tc, which is dominated
by the Plun deSuznn (1850 ft.) and Mont Afrique (1916 ft.), the two
highest summits of the Cote-d'Or. We cross the Combe de Fain
Viaduct, 144 ft. high, with two tiers of arches. Between (190 M.)
Velars and (1921/2 M.) Plombieres are four other viaducts and tvo
tunnels. To the left, near Dijon, is a range of rocky hills.

1951/2 M. Dijon (*Buffetj, see p. 368.

to Dijon. BAR-SUR-SEINE. 52. Route. 367

b. Yik Troyes and ChS.tillon-sur-Seine.

211 M. Railway in 8-12 lirs. (no through-tickets 5 the aggregate fares
amount to ahout 37 fr. 75, 25 fr. 55, 16 fr. 55 c). We start from the
Gare de TEst.

From Paris to (104 M.) Troyes, see pp. 291-295. Beyond
(IO6Y2 M.) St. Julien the railway to Cliatillon diverges to the right
from the line to Belfort, and for some distance follows the valley of
the Seine, here shut in hy hills. — 115^2 M. St. Parres-les-Vaudes.
In the distance, to the right, are the chateau and church of Rum-
iUy-Les-Vaudes, two interesting buildings of the 16th century. At
(117 M.) Fouchere.^-Vaux we cross the Seine.

124 M. "BAX-syxr-Seinef Hotel de la Fontaine)^ a town with 3157 in-
hab., is situated at the foot of a wooded hill on which the chateau
of its counts formerly stood. It was a fortified town until 1596 and
has been sacked several times, notably by the English in 1359.

At the entrance to the town is a double Bridge over the Seine,
affording fine views. The bridge is succeeded by the Rue Thiers, in
which, near the church, is a wooden house of the 16th century.
To the right is the church of St. Etienne^ an interesting building of
the 16-17th centuries, with fine stained-glass windows of the same
period. The chief objects of interest in the interior are an old basin
for holy water, at the lateral entrance to the right; eight alto-reliefs
in the transepts, the subjects of which are derived from the lives of
St. Stephen and the Yirgin; and fine credence-tables, graceful
canopies, and good paintings in the aisle-chapels and ambulatory. —
The town possesses little else of interest. The public Clock stands
on a part of the old wall. The Rue Thiers ends in the Grande-Rue,
at the S. extremity of which is the Porte de Chdtillon, an unpretend-
ing erection of the 18th century.

The line now crosses the Ource, an affluent of the Seine, and
then the Seine itself, which it again crosses and recrosses a little
farther on. 1361/2 M. Mussy, with an interesting church of the 13th
and 16th cent.; 140 M. Pothieres. The train crosses the Seine for
the last time and reaches (144 M.) Sle. Colombe, the junction for
Nuits-sous-Ravieres (p. 365).

145 M. Cha,tillon-sur-Seine (Hotel de la Poste, Place de I'Hotel-
de-Ville), a town of 4800 inhab., with a trade in colonial pro-
ducts, is of ancient origin and was of considerable importance in the
middle ages. A congress was held here in 1814 which pronounced
4;he deposition of Napoleon I. In 1871 Ricciotti Garibaldi surprised
the German troops in this town.

The Rue de la Gare leads to a bridge over the Seine adjoining
a mill, from which we catch a glimpse of the old Chateau Marmont,
which was burned down in 1871 and since rebuilt; it stands in
an extensive park. Continuing to follow the Rue de la Gare, we
pass between a fine promenade (to the right) and the hospital, and
reach the Place Marmont, so called in honour of the marshal of

368 Route 53. DIJON. Hotels.

that name, the Due de Raguse (1774-1852), a native of the town.
It is embellished with a monumental fountain. Farther on we come
to another fine promenade, from the end of which are seen the ruins
of the chateau and the church of St. Vorle (see below).

Beyond this promenade is the Hotel de Ville, part of an ancient
Benedictine convent. We now follow the Rue des Fonts to St. Ni-
colas, a Romanesque and Gothic church of little interest, and then
proceed (to the left) through the Rue de I'lsle and the Rue duBourg
to St. Vorle, the ancient chapel of the chateau, in the Romanesque
style, situated on a height to the E. of the town. It contains an
interesting Holy S"epulchre in stone, with eleven life-size figures.
The Chateau from which the town derives its name has long been in
ruins ; nothing now remains but some parts of the surrounding wall,
the space within which has been transformed into a cemetery. —
The Prison, in the upper part of the town, beyond the church of
St. Nicolas (see above), is a structure of tlie Renaissance period. The
Congress of Chatillon was held in a house in the adjoining street.

From Chatillon to Chaumont and to Nuits-sous-Raviires , see pp. 301
and 365. Branch-lines also run hence to (22 51.) Aignay-le-Duc and to Les
Laumes (p. 365).

Beyond Chatillon our line quits the valley of the Seine and
enters (to the E.) the less interesting valley of the Ource. 162 M.
Recey-sur-Ource, the chief town in this valley.

175 M. Poinson- Beneuvre is the junction of a line to Langres
(p. 302). Our line now leaves the basin of the Seine and enters
that of the Rhone, passing through a mountainous and rocky dis-
trict into the valley of the Title. 180 M. Pavillon-lts-Granceyj
2V2 M. to the S. of Grancey-le-Chdteau , the fine chateau of ^vhioh
was largely rebuilt in the 17th century. 183V2 ^^- Marey-sur-Tille.

At (I9OV2 M.) Is-sur-Tille we join the lines from Chalindrey
and Vesoul to Dijon. Thence to (211 M.) Dijon, see p. 315.

53. Dijon.

stations. Oare de Paris (PI. A, 3), the principal station, to the W.;
Gare Porte-Neuve (PI. G, 3), to the E., for the railway to Chalindrey, Lan-
gres, etc., but connected with the former by a junction-line; Gares du
Tramioay de Fontaine-Frangaise (PI. A, 3 and G, 2), Boulevard Sevigne and
Eue de Mulhouse.

Hotels. "Grand -Hotel de la Cloche (PI. a; B, 2), Place Darcv,
E., L., & A. 3'/2-8. B. 11/2, dej. 4, D. 5, omn. i/,-3/4 fr.; du Jura (PI. b, A 2;
English), quite near the station, R., L.. & A. 2V2-4V?, B. lV-2. dej. SVz, D.
4, omn. i/2-V'» f^-; DE BouKGOGNE (PI. c; B, 3), Place Darcy, nearer the
centre of the town, R. 2V2, dej. orD. SVafr.; du >;ord (PL e; B, 3), at
the Porte Guillaume ; de la Galore (PL f ; C, 3), Rue de la Liberte 45, pens.
71/2 fr. ; MoROT (PL d; A, 3), opposite the station, new, pens. 8 fr. ; Con-
tinental, Rue Guillaume-Tell, near the fetation, pens. T/2 t'r. ; etc.

Cafes. Cafe de la Rotonde, Place Darcy, du Lion-de-Belfort (Brasserie),
Place Darcy; de la Concorde, at the Porte Guillaume; Cafi-Restaurant Dofson,
Place d'Armes, moderate; de Paris, Place St. Etienne, at the theatre;
Georges., corner of the Rue de la Liberte and Rue Bossuet. — Brasserie
Loos Oder Altacienne (casino), opposite the Gare de Paris.

i

Crave el impriiae par

Wagaer i De^es , Leipzig.

History. DIJON. 53. Route. 369

Cabs. Per course, 1 fr. during tlie day, IV2 fr. at night; per hour
1 fr. 60 e. and 2 fr.

Electric Tramways. From the Gare de Paris (PL A, 3): 1. To the Gare
Porte-Neuve (PI. C, 3); 2. To the Place St. Pierre (PI. D, E, 5), going on
thence tn the new Cemetery and the Park; 3. To the Place de la RipuUique
(PI. E, 1) and to the Dragoons'" Barracks; 4. To the Canal Harbour (PI. A, 5)
and the Arsenal. Fare 10 c, with correspondance 15 c.

Post Office, Rue des Forges, to the left, behind the Hotel de Ville.

Telegraph Office, at the Hotel de Ville, to the right.

United States Consular Agent, Mons. Ernest Bourette.

Theatre, see p. 374. — Casino (see p. 368), Rue de la Gare. — Cirque
d'Eti., Boulevard Tivoli. — Alcazar (PI. C, 3), Rue des Godrans.

Dijon., the Roman Divio or Castrum Divionense., once the capital
of Burgundy and now that of the Departement de la Cote-d'Or, is a
commercial town with 67,736 inhab. , situated at the confluence of
the Ouche with the Suzon and the Canal de Bourgogne (p. 364), at
the foot of the hills of the Cote-d'Or (p. 387), the highest summit of
which is the Mont Afrique (1916 ft.). It is the seat of a bishop, a
court of appeal, and a university, and since the war of 1870 has been
a fortified town of great importance, defended by eight detached forts.
Many of its most interesting buildings date from the period when it
was the capital of the Dukes of Burgundy (see below). Dijon has
an extensive trade in wine and corn, and its mustard and ginger-
bread enjoy a wide reputation.

Dijon was a fortified camp of the Romans, but it remained without
importance until it became the capital of the duchy of Burgundy in the
11th cent., while it became conspicuous only after 1363 under its dukes
Philippe le Hardi, Jean sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Te-
meraire. Louis XI. took possession of Burgundy on the death of Charles
in 1477. Dijon espoused the Catholic side and supported the League in
the religious wars, and was not reduced by Henri IV until after the battle
of Fontaine-Francaise (p. 376) in 1595. From 1631 till the Revolution Bur-
gundy was governed by the princes of Condc', and Dijon enjoyed great
prosperity in the 18th century.

In spite of a valiant resistance (see p. 375), the town was occupied by
the German army-corps under General Werder from the 31st Oct. to the
27th Dec, 1870. Afterwards evacuated on the approach of the French
troops under Cremer, it was covered and defended by Garibaldi, who had
to sustain an attack (21st-23rd Jan., 1871), made to enable Manteuffel to
force back Bourbaki to the Swiss frontier (p. 379).

Dijon numbers many celebrated men among its former citizens, in-
cluding, in addition to its dukes, Bossuet, Crebillon, Rameau, Piron, Guy-
ton de Morveau, the chemist, Admiral Roussin, Marshal Vaillant, and the
sculptors Ramey, Rude, and Jouffroy."

The Rue de la Gare leads to the Place Darcy (PI. B, 2), called
after the engineer of that name, to whom are due the two reservoirs
and the public fountains of the town. It is embellished with a bronze
Statue of Rude (1784-1855), the sculptor, by Tournois. Beyond
this Place is the pleasant Promenade du Chateau- d' Eau, fringed
with handsome modern mansions. Farther on, at the entrance to the
town proper, is the Porte Guillaume (PI. B, 3), dating from 1784.
The Rue de la Liberte leads directly from this point to the Place
d'Armes (p. 370). We, however, turn to the right at the beginning
of the street, to visit the —

Cathedral of St. Benigne (PI. B, 3), originally built as the

BAEDEjaEn's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 24

370 liouie 63. DIJON. Cathedral.

church of an abbey, the place of which has been taken by the bishop's
palace and a theological seminary. The foundation of the cathedral
goes back to a very early period, but in its present form the edifice
dates substantially from the 13th cent. (1271-88). In style it is
Gothic, butinplanit resembles the later Romano-Byzantine churches,
with its short transepts and small choir, the latter destitute of am-
bulatory or chapels and ending in three semicircular apses. The W.
front is preceded by a narthex, or vestibule, adorned with a group
of the martyrdom of St. Stephen, by Eouchardon, replacing the old
sculptures destroyed at the Revolution. Above is a light and elegant
arcade. Among the other prominent features of the exterior are the
two handsome lateral towers and the timber spire above the crossing,
rebuilt in 1894-95, adorned with copper statues. The usual en-
trance to the interior is a small door on the S. side. Against the
pillars are statues by Eouchardon, Jean Dubois, and Attiret ; in the
aisles are various monuments of the 16-18th cent.; in the S. tower
are inscriptions indicating the site of the tombs of Jean sans Peur
and Philippe le Hardi; and in the choir (restored in 1886-92), hand-
some stalls dating from the 18th century. The crypt, recently restor-
ed, contains the tomb of St. Benignus (d. ca. 179) and has some
ancient paintings. Fine organ-case (18th cent.).

A few yards to the right of the cathedral rises St. PhUibert
(PI. B, 3), a church of the 12th cent., with a Gothic stone spire
of the 16th, now used as a warehouse.

The small street to the right leads in a few minutes to the church
of St. Jean (PI. C, 4), which was rebuilt in the 15th century. It
contains a large and mediocre mural painting by Masson. St. Ur-
ban, St. Gregory, and the pseudo-emperor Tetricus are buried here.
We now return, through the Rue Bossuet, to the Rue de la
Libert^, the second cross-street on the right, and proceed along it to
the semicircular Place d'Armes^ on the N.side of which rises the —
Hotel de Ville,' formerly the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy
(PI. D, 3). This huge edifice, of little interest in itself, was practi-
cally rebuilt in 1681-1725 and in the 19th century. Almost all that
now remains of the old palace, dating from the 14-15th cent., is the
lofty tower (150 ft. high) in the centre, a lower one behind, a few
vaulted rooms on the groundfloor, the kitchens (see p. 374), and a
large well in front of them, to the right of the principal court. Vis-
itors are permitted to see these, and may also pass through the
centre of the building in order to see the other side. The most in-
teresting part of the palace is the *Museuin, which possesses one of
the best provincial colle<-tions of paintings in Fran<e. It also con-
tains the magnificent tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fear-
less. It is open to the public on Thurs., Sat., Sun., and holidays
from 12.30 to 3.30 or 5; but strangers may always obtain admittani e
on payment of a small fee, except on IMon. forenoon. The entrance
is on the right side, in the Place du Theatre (p. 374).

Museum. DIJON. 53. Route. 371

Ground-Floor. Tliree rooms here contain sculptures. Koom 1. Statue
of Lazare Carnot by Turcan; antique Apollo Citharoedus. — Room 2. Works
by Rude. — Room 3. Dampt^ Diana ^ Calet, The terrible year; Schroeder,
(Edipus and Antigone; casts and models. — Staircase. Statue of the Re-
public, by Goutan; Victress, hy BoutelUer; 1439. Baptism of Christ and Ser-
mon on the Mount, two round reliefs by an unknown hand of 1520.

First Floor. Room I contains engravings. Statuette of a shepherd, by
B. Blaise.

Rooms II-VI contain the ''Trimolei Collection, bequeathed to the town
in 1878 and consisting of fine old furniture, paintings and drawings, minia-
tures, enamels, bas-reliefs in ivory, silver, bronze, and wood, gems, vases,
pottery^ Chinese curiosities, etc. — Room II. Oriental curiosities, porcelain,
bronzes, enamels, lacquer-work, etc. — Room III. Drawings, engravings,
antiquities, porcelain, and cabinets. — Room IV. Pictures. To the left:
37. Roman School, Madonna; 52. Holbein the Younger,' Portrait; 3. Boni-
facio {"i), Madonna; 63. Netscher, A burgomaster; 27. Verrocchio, Madonna;
77. Verelst, Portrait; 31. Umbrian School, Holy Family; 18. C. da Sesto, Ma-
donna; 57 (between the windows), School of Memling, Madonna; 32. Rovian
School, Holy Family; 49. B. van der Heht, Portrait; 29. Italian School,
Christ in bonds; 71. Rubens, Isabella Braudt, his first wife; 11. Raima
Vecchio, Holy Family; 74. J. van Schuppen, Portrait; 14. Francia (Raibolini),
Virgin and Child; 7. Ghirlandajo, Coronation of the Virgin. — This room
contains also fine cabinets, enamels, ivory carvings, porcelain, and weapons.
The central glass-case, on the side by the windows, contains translucent
enamels, an embossed and enamelled plate of gold, clasps and brooches,
gems, etc. The clasps or brooches for hats (Noa. *1409, *1410, and 1411), in
chased gold, embossed and enamelled, are Italian works of the 16th cent.,
the first two being ascribed to Benvennto Cellini or to Ambr. Foppa, sur-
named Caradosso. In the large glass-case at the end of the room is a fine
ewer after Briot, enamelled by Bernard Palissy. — Room V. Pictures.
No. 26. Garofalo, Madonna and Child; 95. Greuze, Study of a head; 33.
Roman School, Madonna and Child; 89. Cloueti'i), Elisabeth of Austria, wife
of Charles IX.; 25. Solimena, Assumption; 39. Asselyn, Italian landscape;
47. Ducq, Guard; 13. Bassano, Adoration of the Shepherds; 68. Potter, Land-
scape; 80. Phil. Wouwerman, Return from the chase; 73. Sal. Ruysdael,
Landscape; 24. Solimena, Death of Joseph; 6. Ferrari, Coronation of the
Virgin; 28. School of Leonardo da Vinci, Madonna and Child; 62. G. Netsdier,
The message ; 72. J. van Ruisdael, 51. Hobbema, Landscapes ; 1. Fra Bartolom-
meoCi), Holy Family; 19. Solario, Holy Family; 2. Bellini, Madonna and
Child. — In the glass-cases are jewels and glass. — Room VI. No. 53. Van
Huchtenburgh, Battle; 40. Berghem, Landscape with animals; 55. Koekkoek,
Winter-scene; 76. Teniers the Younger, Vision of St^ Jerome; 75. Teniers
the Elder, Snow-scene; 15. Guide Reni, Triumph of Venus; 69. Potter, Land-
scape and animals; 79. Ph. Wouwerman, Starting for the chase; 42. Cuyp,
Landscape. — The glass-cases contain medallions. No. 314 (near the en-
trance), Pascal at the age of 17 (1654). — Room VII (passage). Engravings
and photographs of tapestry.

Room VIII contains the Devosge Collection, of drawings and paintings by
Fr. Devosge, founder of the Ecole des Beaux -Arts and the Museum of
Dijon (1783). No. 715. Rubens, Rape of Ganymede; 693. Lucatelli, Land-
scape; 695. Mierevelt, Portrait of a lady; 701. Prud''hon, Fr. Devosge;
drawings by Prud'hon.

Room IX. To the right and left: P. da Cortona (Berretiini), 10. Rape
of the Sabine women, 11. Jacob und Laban, 12. Laban searching for his
idols (copies); 158 (first window on the right), Netscher, Vertumnus and
Pomona (copy); 21 (second window), Pontormo, Presentation in the Temple \
75 (near the entrance), Domenichino, Judith. In the middle are objects of
art and curiosities : 1370. Clock by Boule (Buhl), with figures after Michael
Angelo ; 1466. Old and New Testaments, a bas-relief in silver relieved with
gold. — Bronzes, casts, terracottas.

Room X. Sculptures, mostly after the antique. No. *1075. Rude,
Hebe playing with Jupiter's eagle; 1029, 1027. Jouffroy, Reverie, Disillu-
sion. The ceiling-painting, by Prud^hon, represents Burgundy conquering

24*

372 Route 63. DIJON. Museum.

Death and Time and surrounded by the Virtues and the Fine Arts, an
interesting work after the painting by Pietro da Cortona in the Barberini
Palace at Rome.

Room XI. Drawings by the old masters, presented by His de la Salle.

Room XII. Less important paintings of the French school. No. 465.
Suv4e, Death of Admiral Coligny. In the middle: Vintagers, Child and
frog, sculptures by A.Moj'cau; Cleopatra, by B.Blaise.

Room XIII (landing at the top of the staircase). Sculptures: Cast of
the head of Vercingetorix, by Millet (p. 365)5 1068. Ramep, Hercules lift-
ing a rock^ 1014. Foyatiery Diomede carrying off the Palladium; 396. B.
Masson, Battle of Lake Trasimene; 1433. Tomb of the 15th cent. 5 etc.

Room XIV. Modern drawings, engravings; stone altar-piece of the
16th cent., with scenes from the life of Christ. In the middle: Sevres vase
with paintings in the style of Louis XV. ; group by jScAoettewerA (A dan ger-
ous prisoner).

Room XV, the ancient *^Guard Room of the ducal palace, has a fine
chimney-piece dating from the beginning of the 16th century. The chief
objects of interest in this hall are the **Tombs of Philippe le Hardi and
Jean sans Peur., originally erected in the church of the Chartreuse (p. 376),
but removed to the cathedral on the suppression of that church. They
were partly destroyed during the Revolution, but have been judiciously
restored. The tomb of Philippe le Hardi or Philip the Bold, executed at
the end of the 14th and beginning of the 15th cent, by Clous Sluter and
his nephew CI. de Werve., is made of black and white marble, relieved
with painting and gilding, and is surmounted by a recumbent figure of
the duke, his feet resting on a lion and his head on a cushion between
two angels with outspread wings, who hold his helmet. Round the sides
of the tomb run Gothic arcades tilled with forty statuettes of mourning
ecclesiastics, the expression and drapery of which are particularly ad-
mirable. — The tomb of Jean sans Peur closely resembles that of his
father, the main difference being that it possesses a second figure, that
of Margaret of Bavaria, his wife. This tomb , the work of Jehan de la
Huerta and Ant. le Moiturier, was erected fifty years later than the other,
and is still more elaborately ornamented. — Between the tombs stands a
reproduction of the statue of Anne of Burgundy, Duchess of Bedford,
daughter of Jean sans Peur. — Among the numerous other interesting
works of art the following may be mentioned, beginning to the left of
the door, though the recent restoration of the hall may have led to
alterations in the arrangement: 64. Oiov. Crespi (Lo Spagnuolo), As-
sumption; 113. Corn. Ungelbrechisen , Annunciation; 28. Italian Scfiool,
Madonna and Child; *206. Oennan School, Adoration and Presentation in
the Temple, a triptych; *168. Seghers, Descent from the Cross; 442. Aic.
Quentin (d. 1636), Adoration of the Shepherds; *1420. Two portable Gothic
altar-pieces in gilded wood, carved in 1391 by Jac. de Baerze and painted
by Melch. Broderlam for the church of the Chartreuse, by order of Phi-
lippe le Hardi. Between the two are a coloured bas-relief of the 13th cent,
(from the old chapel of the palace), an *Altar-piece from the Abbey of
Clairvaux, with five panels, and the fragments of a 15th cent, altar-piece
(Nos. 1434, 1421, 1454). In a glass-case: Crown, said to have been found
in the tomb of Margaret of Bavaria; cup of St. Bernard, 12th cent.; ivory
caskets of the 13th and 15th cent. ; crozier of St. Robert, 11th century.
Above hangs a piece of tapestry of the 16th cent., representing the Siege
of Dijon by the Swiss in 1513. 482. De Troy, Christ before Pilate. At the
second window: 32. Mantegna(,'i), Madonna and Child; 1045. Lemoyne, Model
of a projected mausoleum for Crebillon. At the fourth window : 150. Mem-
ling {"i). Adoration of the Shepherds; 114. Aldegrever, Portrait of a man.
965. Bridan, Statue of Bossuet. Above, fragment of carved wood of the
14th century.

Room XVI contains most of the pictures. To the right: M^. Nattier,
Portrait of Maria Lecsdnska; 263. Ant. Coypel, Sacrifice of Jephthah; 267.
NoH Coypel, Apollo crowned by Victory; 421. Parrocel, Battle-piece;
135. J. van Iloeck, Blartyrdom of St. Mary of Cordova; 88. J. d'Arthois,
Forest of Soignies; 487. Valentin (copy). Martyrdom of SS. Process and

Museum. DIJON. 53, Route. 373

Martinian; 541. Unknown Artist. Charles the Bold; *74. Domenichino., St. Je-
rome, one of the finest pictures in the collection; no number, Lethihre
(after Ribera)., Descent from the Cross ; 247. Chardin, Portrait of Rameau ;
'22. Cai'lo Dolci, Holy Family (copy); *18. Ann. Carracci, The Canaanitish
Woman; Bassano., '38. Noah making the animals enter the ark, '40. Journey
to Emmaus; *136. i/o«deAoe<er, Sparrow-hawks, cocks, and hens; 151. Van
der Meulen., Siege of Besancon in 1674; 49. Tintoretto., Assumption; 91. D.
van Bergen., Landscape and animals; 169. Teniers the Younger, Smokers;
163. School of Ruhens, Virgin presenting the child Jesus to St. Francis of
Assisi; 152. Van der Meulen, Siege of Lille in 1667. — 104. Phil, de Cham-
paigne, Presentation in the Temple. — On the other side, returning towards
the door : *118. Frans Floris or de Vriendt, Lady at her toilet, supposed to he
Diana of Poitiers; "SO. Bern. Luini, Madonna and Child; 452. Rigaud, Por-
trait of Girardon, the sculptor; 71. >ScZjooi! o/ Perw^rmo, Madonna and Child;
14. School of P. Veronese, Madonna enthroned ; '13. P. Veronese, Moses in the
ark of bulrushes; 108. O. de Grayer, Preparation for the Entombment; 120,
Franck, Thomyris, or the Daughter of Herodias; 1. Albani, Holy Family;
107. G. de Grayer, Assumption; 165, 164. School of Rubens, Entry into
Jerusalem, Last Supper; 96. A. and J. Both, Italian landscape; 296. Gagne-
raux (of Dijon; d. 1795), Battle of Scnef; 180, 187, 188. Phil. Wouwerman,
Starting for the chase. Travellers resting, Interval in the chase; "42. Guide,
Adam and Eve; 65. Strozzi, St. Cecilia; 29. Lanfrancld, Repentance of
St. Peter; 41. Leandro Bassano, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian; 297. Gag-
neraux, Conde's troops passing the Rhine; 384. Garle Van Loo, Condemnation
of St. Denis; 158. Largillitre, Portrait. — 39. Bassano, Scourging of Christ.

Rooms XVII and XVIII contain antique vases, copies, and second-rate
modern works of painting and sculpture, including pictures by local artists.
No number, Franck, Passage of the Red Sea. — 1028. Jouffroy, Erigone ;
1046. Lescorni, Ariadne, both in marble.

Room XIX. No. 402. L. Milingue (1878), Raising the siege of Metz in
155 J; 322. Jacquand, Perugino painting among the monks of Perugia;
1^1% Patrois, Francis I. rewarding Rossi for his labours at Fontainebleau;
Glaize, ^sop and Xauthus;; 315. Henner, Byblis changed into a fountain;
458. Ronot (1878), Labourers of the Vineyard. — Sculptures : M. Moreau (of
Dijon), The Vine; F. Martin, Abbe de TEpe'e. — The glass-cases contain
Sevres porcelain, ivory carvings, bas-reliefs, knives, medals, etc.

Room XX. No. 287. P. Flandrin, Souvenir de Provence; no number.
Parrot, Aurora; 235. L. Boulanger, 'Vive la joie\ a scene from the 'Cour
des Miracles'; 408. G. Moreau, The Song of Songs; 232. Bouguereau, Return
of Tobias; 496. Th. Weber, Shipwreck; 417. De Neuville, Bivwuac before
Le Bourget (1870). — This room also contains various reproductions of
works by Rude; and a glass-ease of fine enamels.

Room XXI. Reproduction of Cabefs Resistance (p. 375). No number,
Frangais, The Source, Portrait of the Artist; Ronot, Menippus; 108. Mme.
Choppard-Mazeau, The 'Ma^ister'.

Room XXII contains second-rate works by French, Flemish, and Dutch
painters. No. 345. Lagrenie, Widows of an Indian officer; 312. Greuze,
Head of a village-girl; 140. L. Carracci, Pieta; 176-179. M. de Vos, Visita-
tion, Circumcision, Adoration of the Magi, Presentation in the Temple;
359. De la Riviere, Admiral Roussin; 1546 (below), French ebony cabinet
(17th cent.); 318. Hillemacher, Aristides and the peasant. — 67. Vanni, Holy
Family; 490. Horace Vernet, Portrait of Marshal Vaillant, whose insignia
and decorations are also exhibited in this room (No. 36). — In the middle :
1056. Flower Fairy ('Fe'e des Fleurs'), a bronze figure by Mathurin Moreau;
Vintager, by /. Girard. Sevres vase with paintings after Fragonard.

The Hotel de Ville also contains a comparatively unimportant
Archaeological Museum^ which occupies three rooms on the ground-
floor, on the E. side. It is open to the public on Sun., from 1 to 3,
and is shown on other days also on application to the doorkeeper,
who is to be found under the staircase in the adjoining tower. —

374 Route 53. DIJON. Notre-Dame.

The doorkeeper also shows the ancient Kitchens (1445), with their
six chimneys, central ventilating-shaft, and vaulted dome.

The small Place between the Hotel de Vllle and the theatre con-
tctms a. Statue of Rameau (1683-1764), in bronze, by Guillaume.
The Theatre is built in the classic style, with a colonnade facing
the Place St. Etienne (to the 8.). To the E. of the same Place is the
old church of St. Etienne, rebuilt in the 18th cent,, and converted
into a Commerdal Exchange in 1897. At the end is the handsome
Renaissarice Savings Bank, completed in 1890.

A little beyond St. Etienne is the church of St. Michel (PL E, 3),
the W.fagade of which presents a happy combination of Gothic design
with Gr«co-Roman details. It was rebuilt after 1529 by Hugues
Samhin, of Dijon, a pupil of Michael Angelo, and served as a model
for St. Eustaciie at Paris (1532-1637). The fa^-ade has three portals
with tympana and semicircular vaulting. The tympanum of the
main portal, by Sambin, represents the Last Judgment. The two
flanking towers are ornamented with rows of all the four orders of
columns, terminating in balustrades and oi'tagonal lanterns roofed
with domes. The small portals of the transept are in the Flamboyant
style. The interior contains a statue of St. Yves, by J. Dubois (first
chapel to the right); a fresco ascribed to Freminet(in the third chapel
to the left); and an altar-piece, representing the Adoration of the
Magi, with a fine Renaissance frame.

From St. Michel we retrace our steps and pass behind the Hotel
de Ville in order to reach Notre-Dame (PI. D, 3), a church of the
13th cent., in the Purgundian Gothic style. The *W. Facade, which
lias recently been well restored, is the most interesting part of the
building. The Porch, which has also been reconstructed, is unique
of its kind. It is built in three stories, the lowest one consisting of
three wide arches, and tlie upper two of open arcades supported by
small columns, with richly carved friezes above and below. Each
story is also adorned with seventeen statuettes, of the most varied
expressions and attitudes, serving as gargoyles. Above, to the right
of the fa^-ade, is a clock brought from Courtrai and presented to the
town by Philippe le Hardi in 1383. It is ascribed to the Flemish
mechanician Jacques Marc, and hence the name 'Jacquemart' given
to the figures that strike the hours on clocks of this description.
Over the crossing of the church is a tower surmounted by a spire and
with a round turret at each corner. At each end of the transept
rises a similar turret.

The interior, like that of St. Benigne, has no ambulatory. It has
columns instead of pillars, the capitals bearing smaller columns ^vhich
support the arches of the vaulting in the nave. Above the fine triforium,
in front of the small windows of the clerestory, runs a gallery. The
choir has three rows of windows, those in the triforium being circular
and preceded by beautiful arcades with slender columns. The transept,
instead of portals, has five windows at each end below the rose-window,
which are also preceded in the interior by an arched gallery. In the X.
transept is a fragment of a fine fresco.

Statue of St. Bernard. DIJON. 53. Route. 375

Among the other interesting houses in Dijon may he mentioned
the Hotel Vogue^ in the Renaissance style, Rue Notre-Dame (No. 8),
hehind the choir of the church; the Maison Milsand^ belonging to
the same period, in the Rue des Forges (No. 38), to the W., near
the Hotel de Ville; the Maison Richard, Nos. 34-36 in the same street,
with a Gothic facade and a court with a wooden gallery (no adm.);
and the Maison des Cariatides, Rue Chaudronnerie (No. 28), to the
N.E, of Notre-Dame.

We return to the Place d'Armes, cross it, and follow, to the left,
the Rue du Palais to the Palais de Justice (PI. D, 4), dating from
the 16th cent, with a fine facade and a large and handsome ante-
chamber. The Parlement of Burgundy formerly held its sittings
here. Behind are the Law School with the Public Library, and a
School, the latter in a former college of the Jesuits.

The Library (open daily, 11-4 5 closed Aug. 15th-Sept. 20th) contains
about 100,000 vols., IKTQMSS., and a collection of drawings and engravings.
Some of the MSS., the early printed boolts, and specimens of landing are
of interest.

The Rue Chabot-Gharny leads from the Place St.Etienne (p. 374),
past the left of the latter school, to the Place St. Pierre (PL D, E, 5),
in the middle of which is a fountain with a fine jet of water. The
Cours thi Pare leads hence to the Park, a fine promenade more than
80 acres in extent, laid out by Le Notre for the Princes of Conde'.
It extends on the S. as far as the Ouche, beyond which is the old
chateau, now private property. On this side of the river, at the end
of the chief avenue, is a sun-dial marked out on the ground. —
Cafe's-Restaurants to the left of the entrance.

The Boulevard Carnot, 850 yds. long, leads from the Place St.
Pierre (see above), past a handsome Synagogue, to the Place du
Trente-Octobre. In the latter stands the handsome Monument du
Trente-Octobre (PL O, 3), erected to the memory of the inhabitants
of the town who fell in the engagement before Dijon in 1870. It
consists of a magnificent white marble figure of Resistance, by Cabet,
standing on a high pedestal in the form of a round tower, with an
alto-relief representing the defence. — A little to the N.E. of this
Place is the Gare Porte-Neuve (p. 368); to the N.W, is the New Lycee
(PL F, 3). The Boulevard Thiers runs hence to the Place, de la
Re'publique, whence the Boulevard de Brosses leads to the Place
Darcy, passing the Place St. Bernard and the old chateau. — In the
Place de la Republique (PL E, 1) is a Monument to President Carnot
(d. 1894), with allegorical statues, by M. Moreau and Gasq.

In the Place St. Bernard (PL C, 2) is a bronze Statue of St.
Bernard (1091-1153), a native of Fontaine, 2V2 M. to the N.W. of
Dijon, by Jouffroy. The high pedestal on which it stands is orna-
mented with bas-reliefs representing Pope Eugene III., Louis VII.
of France, Suger, Peter the Venerable, Abbot of Cluny, and the Duke
of Burgundy and the Grand Master of the Templars who were con-
temporary with the saint.

376 Route 53. DIJON.

To the left of the street leading to the station from the interior
of the town lie the Botanic Garden and the Promenade de VArque-
huse (PL A, 3). The Garden, founded in 1782, contains more than
5000 specimens of plants and a Museum (open Thurs. & Sun., 1-4
or 5). At the end of the Promenade is a black poplar of extra-
ordinary size, said to be 500 years old. It measures 130 ft. in height
and 40 ft. in girth at a height of 3 ft. from the ground.

About 1/2 M- farther on is the Lunatic Asylum^ built on the site
of the Chartreuse de Champmol^ which was founded by Philippe le
Hardi in 1383, and destroyed in 1793. The interesting remains of
the original edifice are shown on application. These include the an-
cient Gothic Entrance, a Tower, and the Portal of the former church,
with statues attributed to Glaus Sluter (p. 372). The celebrated Puits
de Mo'ise or des Prophetes, a well 23 ft. in diameter, has a pedestal in
the centre which formerly supported a Calvary and is stiU adorned
with statues of Moses, Zachariah, and Daniel by Ciaus Sluter, and
of David, Jeremiah, and Isaiah, by Cl. de Werve (p. 372).

Environs. 1. To the W., through the Valley of the Ouc/ie, to PlomUhres
and Velars, distant 3 M. and 5 M. respectively by railway (p. 366). The
engineering of this line exhibits many features of interest. At Velars are the
picturesque Rochers du Trou-aux-Ducs. — 2. To the N., through ih&Val Suzon
or Val Gourde, to the (8 M.) Fontaine de Jouvence (carr. 7 fr. -, public con-
veyance as far as Messigny, 6 M.). Luncheon may he had at Jouvence. —
3. To the 5o25 and Groltes d'Asnieres, 31/2 M. from the town, partly by tlie
above route. — 4. To the S., to (7 M.) Gevrey-Chamhertin, by railway (p. 387)
or by carriage. The town lies about i M. to the W. of the station. Beyond
it are the picturesque valleys called Combe de Lavaux and Combe de la
BussUre or Boissiere. At Fixin, I1/4 M. to the N., is a monument erected
to Napoleon I. by one of his old officers. It is by Rude and represents
the emperor in his tomb, awaking to immortality. — 5. To the S.W., to
the (6 M.) Mo7it Afrique (p. 369; fine view), via (5 M.) Corcelles-Ies-Moi'ts.

A Steam-Tkamwat. starting at the Boulevard Scvigne (PI. A, 3), serves
the district to the E. of Dijon, crossing the line from Is-sur-Tille (p. 36S)
to Gray at (16 M.) Mirebeau, and going on via (26 M.) Fontaine-Frangaise,
noted for the decisive victory gained over the League by Henri IV in 1595,
to (29 M.) Pouilly-sur-Vingeanne. — The railway from Is-sur-Tille runs
also to Beze, 5 M. to the N. of Mirebeau, near the Source of the Bhze.

From Dijon to Nancy, see R. 41; to Besangon, Bel/ort, and Strassburg,
see RR. 48, 43; to Neuchdtel and to Lausanne, see R. 54.

From Dijon to St. Amour, 70 M., railway in 3V2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 75,
8 fr. 55, 5 fr. 55 c). This line diverges to the left from the railway to
Lyons (see R. 56) and runs at first towards the S.E., in the same direction
as the Canal de Bourgogne. — 19 M. St. Jean-de-Losne (Cote d'Or), a small and
ancient commercial town on the right hank of the Sa6ne, at the mouth of
the Canal de Bourgogne (p. 364). Railway to Auxonne, see p. 377. About
2V2 M. to the N.E. is the be-inning of the Rh6ne-Rhine Canal (p. 377). —
Our line now crosses the Saone and turns to the S.W. 28'/2 M. Seurre
(Chapeau Rouge), another small commercial town, on the left bank of the
Saone, connected by a branch-line with (I2V2 M.) Allerey, and so with
Chagny (see p*. 378). Before reaching (33 M.) NavilUi our line crosses the
Doubs. 37 M. St. Bonnet-en- Bresse is also a station on the railwav from
Dole to Chagny (p. 378). 54'/2 M. Louhans (Buffet; Hot. St. Martin), a town
with 4548 inhab., situated on the Seille, is also a station on the railway
from Chalon to Lons-le-Saunier (p. 357). — 70 M. St. Amour, see p. 358.

From Dijon to Epinac (Atilvn), 40 M., a railway is under construc-
tion, leaving the Paris line beyond Plombi^res (p. 318), and passing Pont
d''Ouche, Bligny-sur-Ouche, and Cussy-ln-Colomie.

377
54. From Dijon to Neuchatel and to Lausanne.

I. From Dijon to Pontarlier.

87 M. Railway in 33/4-51/2 brs. (fares 15 fr. 80, 10 fr. 70, 6 fr. 90 c).

Dijon, see p. 368. Our line crosses the Ouche, diverges to tlie
left from the Canal de Bourgogne and the railway to Lyons, and re-
crosses the Ouche. The line to Is-sur-Tille here diverges to the left
(see R. 41b and R. 41c). The district traversed is at first uninter-
esting, but the heights of the Jura gradually come into sight, and
beyond Pontarlier the scenery is really picturesque. — 9 M. Magny.
Beyond (12 M.) Genlis we cross the TiUe. 14 M. Collonges. We
now traverse a wood and reach —

20 M, Auxonne (Buffet; Hotel du Grand- Cerf; St. Nicolas),
a commercial town and fortress with 6695 inhab., owing its name
to its position on the left bank of the Saone ('ad Sonam'). The
church of Notre-Dame, a building of the 14th and 16th cent., pos-
sesses a Romanesque tower (above the transept), belonging to an
earlier edifice, and contains some interesting sculptures. In the Place
d'Armes is a Statue of Napoleon /., by Jouffroy. The fortified Cha-
teau is in the Renaissance style. Auxonne successfully resisted the
Germans in 1870-71.

From Auxonne to Chalon-suk-Saunk, 41 M., railway in 2-2V3 lirs.
(fares 7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 30 c). At (101/2 M.) St. Jean-de-Losne (p. 376)
this line joins the lines for Chagny (p. 389), Chalon, and St. Amour (for
Bourg; p. 358). 31 M. Gergy, on the Saone, is connected with Verjux by
a handsome bridge, erected in 1890. — 41 M. Chalon-sur-Sadne, see Bae-
deker^s South- Eastern France.

Auxonne is also the junction of a line to Grav, Vesoul, etc. (see
E. 41c).

Beyond Auxonne the train crosses the Saone. 28 M. Champvans-
les-Dole. It then threads a tunnel penetrating the Mont Roland
(1155 ft. ; fine view from the top), so named from a venerable con-
vent said to have been founded by the Paladin Roland.

29 M. Dole (Buffet; Hot. de Geneve; Ville-de-Lyon ; de la Gare),
an old industrial town with 14,437 inhab., on the Douhs and the
Rhone-Rhine Canal (p. 322), is interesting to archaeologists and artists.

From an early period Dole was warmly attached to the house of Bur-
gundy, and in 1479 it offered a desperate resistance to the troops sent by
Louis XI. to annex it after the death (1477) of Charles the Bold, the last
Duke of Burgundy. The marriage of Maria of Burgundy, daughter of
Charles, with the ArcMuke Maximilian united its fortunes with Austria
and Spain, but in 1659 it was pronjised to Louis XIV., with the rest of
Fi'anche-Comte, as the dowry of his wife Maria Theresa. The Grand
Monarque had, however, to use force, both in 1668 and 1674, to obtain
possession of the town, and it was not delinitely annexed to France until
the peace of Nimwegen in 1678. Dole then lost tbe position of capital of
Franche-Comte', which it had enjoyed since 1274, and which was transferred,
along with its court of justice and university, to Besancon.

The Gothic Church of Notre-Dame, erected in the 16th cent.,
contains a few noticeable works of art, and the Renaissance Eglise
du College has a fine portal. The Palais de Justice occupies a con-
vent dating from before the siege of 1479. There are also several

378 Route 5i. 'MOUCHARD. From Dijon

specimens of the domestic architecture of tlie Renaissance. The Col-
lege contains a public library, and a Musee of second-rate paintings,
among which is a reproduction of Rembrandt's Raising of Lazarus,
with finishing touches added by that master himself. The finest prom-
enade is the Place Grevy, with a Monument to President Grevy (see
below), by Falguiere (1893), and four stone figures by Bouchardon.

Fkom Dole to Chagnt, 52 M. — Before (6 M.) Tavaux this line crosses
the Rhine-Rhone Canal^ and beyond it it crosses the Doubs. 11 M. Chau^sin^
with some ancient buildings; 22^/2 M. Pierre^ with a chateau of 1680; 28 M.
St. Bonnet-en-Bresse (p. 376); 34 M. Verdun-sur-le-Doubs, at the confluence
of the Doubs and the Saone. The train now crosses the Sadne. 38 M.
Allerey^ also on the line from Auxonne to Chalon (p. 376). — 43 M. St.
Loup-de-la-Salle., junction of a line to Beaune (p. 388). We join the line
from Dijon. — 52 M. Chagny, see p. 389.

Another branch-line runs from Dole to (25V2 M.) Poligny (p. 357), pass-
ing (14 M.) Mont- sous- Vaudrei/, the birthplace and burial-place of Jules
Grevy (1807-91), President of the French Republic in 1879-87.

From Dole to Besangon., see p. 347.

Our line now crosses the Rhine-Rhone Canal and the Doubs and
enters the extensive Forest of Chaux (49,000 acres), through which
it runs for the next seven miles. — 45 M, Arc-et-Senans, with salt-
works supplied with brine from (IOV2 M.) Salins (p. 356). The
church contains some paintings presented by Queen Christina of
Spain, including a Redemption, by Ant. da Pereda; St. Joseph and
the Child Jesus, by Murillo; Christ and the Canaanite Woman, by
Carracci; a Holy Family, by Schidone ; and a Virgin, by G. de
Crayer. — Railway to Besan(jon, see R. 51.

49 M. Moucliard [Buffet, smaU), junction for Bourg and for
Salins, see p. 356.

Our line now gradually ascends and soon enters tlie Jura, afford-
ing an extensive view to the right. To the left rise the fortified hills
round Salins. The train passes over or through several viaducts,
embankments, and tunnels. — 55 M. Mesnay-Arbois; this station
lies 2 M. from Arbois, which is more conveniently reached by the
Mouchard and Bourg line (R. 51). We now pass through seven
tunnels. Views to the right. — 61 M. Pont-d'Hery. The train tra-
verses a wooded district, affording a view of the valley of the Furieuse
(p. 356 ; left).

64 M. Andelot-en-Montagne (Buffet).

From Andelot a branch-line runs to (23 M.) St. Laurent-du-Jura (Hot.
du Commerce), via (9 M.) Champagnole, a town of 3676 inhab., pleasantly
situated on the .4m, vvith iron-works, eaw-mills, and distilleries; junction
for Lons-le-Saunier (p. 357). The line is to be continued from St. Laurent
to (7 M.) Morez.

The train crosses a viaduct 65 ft. high, threads a tunnel, and
enters the Forest of Joux, within which it passes through several
rocky cuttings. — From (71 Y2 M.) Boujeailles a diligence plies
thrice daily to (9 M.) Nozeroy, which lies 9Y2 M. from Champagnole
(see above ; diligence twice daily).

87 M. Pontarlier (2854 ft.; *H6t. de la Poste, Grande-Rue;
de Paris, Rue de la Gare), a commercial and industrial town with

to Lausanne. PONTARLIER. 54. Route. 379

7577 inliab., on the Douhs^ at the entrance of the defile of La Cluse
(see below). Though of ancient origin, it is essentially modern and
uninteresting in aspect, having been repeatedly ravaged during the
wars of the middle ages and modern times and burned to the ground
by the Swedes in the Thirty Years' War (1639). At one end of the
Grande-Rue (to the left) stands a Triumphal Arch of the 18th cent.,
erected in honour of Louis XV., in whose reign the town, again
destroyed by fire, was rebuilt. At the other end of this street are an
hospital and a bridge over the Doubs.

Brauch-line to Gilley (Morteau)., p. 354. — Diligences to Mouthier and
to Lods (p. 354). Pontarlier contains the French custom-house for trav-
ellers from Neuchatel.

II. From Pontarlier to Neuchatel and to Lausanne.

To NeucMtel, 331/2 M., Railway in 1V4-2V3 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 75 c, 4 fr.,
2fr. 80 c.) — To Lausanne, 45V2 M., in 21/2-3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 70, 5 fr. 35,
3fr. 70c.). — The trains start by Central Europe Time, 55 min. in advance
of French railway-time.

Railw^ay to Neuchatel. As we leave Pontarlier, we have a fine
view to the left. The train ascends the left bank of the Doubs,
crosses the river, and enters the defile of La CLuse, one of the chief
passes over the Jura from France to Switzerland. This romantic
gorge is protected by the Fort de Joux on the right and the modern
Fort de Larmont on the left, perched on bold rocks 6-700 ft. high.

The Fort de Joux was originally built in the i6th cent., as the castle
of the Sires de Joux , and was a constant bone of contention among the
aspirants to rule in Franche-Comte down to its definitive conquest by
Louis XIV. in 1675. It long served as a state-prison. Mirabeau was con-
lined here in 1775, at the instance of his father, to expiate his youthful
follies 5 and Toussaint POuverture, tlie negro chieftain of St. Domingo,
died here in 1803. It was by the defile of La Cluse that Bourbaki's army
retreated into Switzerland in 1871.

We now diverge to the left from the line to Lausanne (see be-
low). 94 M. Verrferes- France, the last French station; 95 M. Ver-
rferes-Suisse (3060 ft.), with the Swiss custom-house. The train
passes through three tunnels and over two viaducts, and descends
into the pretty Val de Travers , which is watered by the Reuse or
Areuse. 102 M. Boveresse, the station for the two industrial villages
of Fleurier and Mdtiers, at which watches and absinth are made.
Excellent absinth is also made at (1041/2 M.) Couvet. Near (106 M.)
Travers are the asphalt-mines which have made the name of 'Val
de Travers' so familiar in commerce. Beyond (IO8Y2 M.) Noiraigue
(2360 ft.) we leave the Val de Travers and enter a more picturesque
part of the valley of the Reuse, passing through numerous tunnels.
Fine views to the right of the Lake of Neuchatel and the Alps. Far
below us, on the same side, is the lofty viaduct of the Lausanne
line. Beyond (117 M.) Auvernier the train passes through a tunnel
and crosses the Seyon. — 120 M. Neuchatel, see p. 356.

Railway to Lausanne. This line coincides with that to Neu-
chatel as far as La Cluse (see above) and then turns to the S. —

380 Route 64- VALLORBE.

90 M. Framhourg. About 41/2 M. to the W., behind the hills which
the train now skirts, is the Lac de St. Point, 4 M. long and 1/2 M.
wide, through which flows the Doubs. The lake is surrounded with
villages, and its banks are fertile and well-cultivated. — 97 M. Les
Hopitaux-Jougne, the last French station, with the custom-house
for travellers from Switzerland. Jougne is a small industrial town
with 2000 inhabitants. The train now passes through two tunnels
and enters Switzerland. — 103 M. Vallorbe (2520 ft. ; Gr.-Hot. de
Vallorbe ; de Geneve'), a watch-making place on the Orbe, with up-
wards of 2000 inhab. and the Swiss custom-house. The train now
backs out from the station and then runs to the E. through the valley
of the Orbe. IIOV2 M. Croy-Romainmotier; 1131/2 M. Arnex-Orle;
II61/2 M. La Sarraz, with an old chateau. Our line now unites with
that from Neuchatel. 122 M. Cossonay ; 127 M. Bussigny; 128 M.
Renens. — 231 M. Lawsanne (*H6tel Gibbon; *Riche-Mont; Fau-
con), see Baedeker's Switzerland.

55. Le Morvan. Auxerre. Autun.

Le Morvan, or Le Morvand, a picturesque district formerly belonging
to the duchies of Burgundy and iS^ivernais, has hitherto been almost a <erra
incognita to tourists, owing to the fact that it does not lie on any of the
beaten tracks of European travel. From Avallon (p. 383) on the X. to
Luzy (p. 390) on the S. it is traversed by a chain of mountains, or rather
hills, 55 M. long and 20-30 31. wide, to which it owes its name, derived,
it is said, from the two Celtic words mor, large, and vand, a mountain.
This chain, the highest summit of which is the Pic du Bois-du-Roi (2976 ft. ;
p. 394), connects with those of the Cote-d'Or and the Charolais, and forms
part of the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Most
of the surface of the Morvan is covered with woods or pasturage, and the
chief occupations of the inhabitants are forestry and cattle-rearing. The
Morvandiaux have square heads, small and narrow eyes, flat and hairless
faces, and flat noses; and some authorities think that these traits indicate
their descent from the Huns who are said to have remained in this district
after the retreat of Attila. — The extension of the railway-system has made
the Morvan more accessible and also renders it convenient to treat of it in
conjunction with the districts round Auxerre and Autun.

a. From Laroche (Sens) to Auxerre (Autun) and to Nevers.

Railway to (12 M.) Au.terre in 85 min. (fares 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 45, 95 c.);
to (91 M.) Jfevers in 4V3-5V3 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 55, 11 fr. 20, 7 fr. 25 c).

Laroche, see p. 364. The first part of this line traverses a mono-
tonous district on the right bank of the Yonne, with a plain to the
left and hills to the right. — Three small stations.

12 M. Auxerre (Buffet; Grand-Hotel de la Fontaine; de I'Epee,
K., L., & A. 2-6, de'j. 1-3, D. 3, omn, 1/2 fr. ; du Commerce), the
capital of the Departement de I' Yonne, a town with 18,576 inhab. and
a brisk trade in wine, is situated on a hill on the left bank of the
Yonne. It was the Roman Autricidorum or Autissiodorum and for-
merly the capital of the district named the Auxerrois. Though badly
and irregularly built, the town, with its three conspicuous churches,
makes a favourable impression on the visitor arriving by railway.

AUXERRE. 55. Route. 381

The station lies about V2 M. from the town. On the hridge
over the Yonne is a Statue of Paul Bert (1833-86), who died as
governor of Tonkin, by Peynot,

The church of St. Pierre, the first to the right, in the Rue du
Pont, was rebuilt in the 17th cent, and furnished with a handsome
classical portico. The fine tower, however, dates from the century
previous. In the small Place in front is a dilapidated Renaissance
gateway. — The Rue Joubert leads hence to the —

Cathedral or St. Etienne, a highly interesting edifice, dating
substantially from the 13-15th cent., but incorporating some frag-
ments of an earlier Romanesque church. The three fine, but some-
what dilapidated doorways of the W. front were erected at the
end of the 13th century. The N. tower, with its four stages and
elaborate arcading, was completed in the 16th cent. ; the S. tower is
unllnished. Both portals and towers stand a little in advance of the
W. wall, which is pierced by a large rose-window. The lateral por-
tals, completed in the 14-1 5th cent., are richly ornamented and in
good preservation. The gables and arches are adorned with a mul-
titude of small statuettes in arched niches and recesses. Above are a
large gable and a huge window with three circular lights.

The interior is lofty and harmoniously proportioned. The nave is
surrounded by a tasteful triforium and balustrade. The choir is separated
from the nave by an elegant grille of the 18th century. The wall of the
ambulatory, which is three steps lower than the nave, is adorned with an
arcade, the capitals of which are most elaborate and varied (human heads,
etc.). On each side of the sanctuary is the small monument to a bishop
of Auxerre (17th and 16th cent.), that on the left commemorating Jacques
Amyot (1513-y3), well known as an author. The entrance of the square
apsidal chapel, with its two tall and slender columns sustaining the spring-
ers of the vaulting, is extremely graceful and almost unique. Behind the
high-altar, a work of the 18th cent., in marble, is a marble statue of St.
Stephen. Much of the stained glass is of the 13-16th cent., and some of the
tombs are also interesting. Beneath the choir is a Crypt of the 11th cent-
ury. The lectern dates from the 16th century.

Behind the cathedral stands the Prefecture, in the former epis-
copal palace, which has a fine Romanesque gallery, the promenade
of the mediaeval bishops, and the old synod-room with its Gothic
gables. — The quay affords the best view of the interesting remains
of the Abbey of St. Germain, which has been transformed into an
hospital and school. These include a tower of the 14th cent., and
the transepts, choir, and absidal chapels of the church, dating from
the 13-15th centuries. The nave has disappeared. The crypts date
from the 9th century.

Returning to the cathedral, we now follow the street leading to-
wards the market-place and then the first cross-street to the left,
leading to the Hotel de Ville. To the right is one of the old town?
gateways, with the Tour Gaillarde, which dates from the end of the^
15th cent. ; the spire, however, was rebuilt in the 19th cent., after
a fire.

Near this point, to the left, is a small Museum, containing col-

382 Route 55. CLAMECY. Le Morvan.

lections of antiquities, natural history, paintings, and sculptures,
and some reminiscences of Davout (see below). The building is
adorned with medallions of local celebrities. In front of it is a Statue
of Fourier^ the mathematician, a native of Auxerre (1768-1830), in
bronze, by Faillot.

A little farther on, to the left, is the Rue du Temple, one of the
chief streets in the town. In the same quarter is the Church of
St. Eusebe, dating from various periods, and containing some good
stained glass of the 16th cent, (choir-chapels) and wood-carving
(stalls). The graceful tower is in the Transitional style.

At the end of the Rue du Temple, to the left, is the Esplanade
du Temple, a pleasant promenade embellished with a bronze statue,
by Dumont, of Marshal Davout (1770-1823).

From Auxerre to Toucy-Moulins (Montargis) and (?ien, see p. 396.

The Nevers line continues to ascend the valley of the Yonne,
skirting the Canal du Nivernais (110 M. long), which connects the
Yonne with the Loire. We cross both river and canal several times.
An extensive trade in firewood is here carried on.

23 M. Cravant (Buffet), an ancient town, where the English
defeated the French in 1423. The old chateau and a tower are the
only relics of its fortifications. The fine church, dating from the
15-16th cent., has a Renaissance choir. The branch-line to Autun
(see p. 383) now diverges to the left. — 341/2 M. Chiitel-Censoir, in
an undulating district ; 40 M. Coulanges-sur-Yonne ; 4IV2M. Surgy,
the junction of the Montargis and Trigurres line (p. 396).

45 M. Clamecy (Buffet; Hotel de la Boule d'Or), a town with
5500 inhab., lies to the left, at the confluence of the Yonne and the
Beuvron. Jean Rouvet, who is said to have invented in 1549 the
method in which the timber is floated down the rivers, was a native
of Clamecy; and a bust of him, by David d' Angers, has been set up
on the bridge over the Yonne. The ancient Eglise de Bethliem, built
in the 12th cent., is now the salle-a-manger of the Hotel de la Boule
d'Or. The Church of St. Martin, chiefly dating from the 13th, 15th,
and 16th cent., has several interesting features ; its W. front is
surmounted by a tine square tower.

From Clamecy to Cercy-la-Tour and Paray-le-Mvninl^ see p. 386; to
Montargis via Triguhres, see p. 396 ; to Cosne, see p. 397.

Our line now quits the valley of the Y'^onne. 51 V2 M. Corvol-
iOrgueilleux. — 58 M. Varzy, a small and ancient town, to the left,
with a fine church of the 13-14th cent, containing reliquaries of
the 12-13th cent, and a Flemish triptych of 1535 (Martyrdom of
St. Eugenia). The two Dupins were natives of Varzy ; and a statue of
the older one, the famous jurisconsult and magistrate (d. 1865), has
been erected in front of the church. Yarzy contains a small museum.

62 M. Corvol-d' Embernard. Fine view to the left, bounded by
distant mountains. 6() M. Arzembouij. Near the small town of
(72^2 M.) Fremery we enter the valley of the Niecre. 79 M.

Le Morvan. AVALLON. 55. Route. 383

Poiseux; 82 M. Guerigny, with the large government-foundries
of La Chaussade, which are mainly employed in producing equip-
ments for the French navy ; 85 M. Urzy, to the left, with a chateau
of the 15th century. Our train now soon joins the Chagny line (_R. 56)
and skirts Nevers, with its conspicuous cathedral and palace. —
91 M. Nevers, see p. 404.

b. From Auxerre to Autun viS. Avallon.

89 M. Railway in b^-zl hra. (fares 16 fr. 25 c, 11 fr., 7 fr. 15 c).

From Auxerre to (11 M.) Craoant, see p. 382. The train crosses
the Yonne and leaves its valley, turns to the left', and ascends the
pleasant valley of the Cure, which is flanked with vine-clad hills.
— 14 M. Vermenton, a small town to the left, the church of which
has a fine Romanesque portal.

191/2 M. Arcy-sur-Cure (Hot. des Grottes), with a chateau of
the 18th cent., is often visited for its stalactite Grottoes, situated
11/4 M. above the village, on the left bank of the Cure, the valley
of which is here bordered with picturesque rocks. There are three
main grottoes, with an aggregate length of 950 yds., a visit to which
takes about 1 hr. (adm. 3 fr. for 1-3 pers., larger parties 1 fr. each
pers.). The bones of numerous prehistoric animals and many flint
implements have also been found in the caves.

Beyond Arcy the train twice crosses the winding Cure and passes
through a short tunnel, on emerging from which we have a glimpse,
to the right, of the grottoes. We then again cross and recross the
Cure. — 25 M. Sermizelles, at the foot of a hill, which is surmounted
by a modern tower, with a statue of the Virgin. An omnibus runs
hence to (5'/2 M.) Ve'zelay (IV2 fr. ; see p. 384). — The train now
quits the valley of the Cure and reaches (31^/2 M.) Vassy, with large
cement-works (1 M. to the left).

34 M. Avallon {Hot. de laPoste, Place Vauban, dej. or D. 3 fr.;
Chapeau Rouge, Rue de Lyon), the Ahallo of the Romans, a town
with 5800 inhab., is charmingly situated on the right bank of the
Cousin, the valley of which is here very romantic (see p. 384).

The Avenue de la Gare leads to the Promenade des Capucins,
at the end of which stands the Church of St. Martin, presenting
no feature of interest except its ancient pulpit carved in wood. A
little distance from this point are the Place Vauban and the Grand-
Cours, the latter adorned with a bronze statue of the great military
engineer Vauban (1633-1707), by Bartholdi, erected in 1873.

The Grande-Rue, to the left of this Place, passes under the Tour
de VHorloge, an old gate erected in 1456-60, the tall and slender
spire of which dominates the whole town. On the second floor is a
small Mw5€wm, comprising a few antiquities, a geological collection,
and a cabinet of medals containing 3000 specimens. Farther on in
the same street, to the left, rises the Church of St. Lazare, with its
two handsome W. portals, richly adorned with elegant columns,

384 Route 55. SEMUR. Le Morvan.

groups of sculpture, garlands of flowers and fruit, and other carv-
ings. Tlie interior in the Gothic style of the 13th cent., with groined
vaulting, is badly lighted and helow the level of the street. The
organ-case deserves notice.

The Grande-Rue ends at the Terreaux de La Petite-Porte^ a prom-
enade, with the remains of fortifications, affording a delightful
view of the valley of the Cousin.

From Avallon to Dijon via Semuk, 68 M., railway in 3V4-4V4 hrs.
(fares 12 fr. 20, 8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30 c.) ; to Semur, 21 M., in" 50-70 min. (fares
8 fr. 80, 2 fr. 55, 1 fr. 70 c). — At (51/2 M.) Maison-Dieu this line diverges
from the railway to Autun (see p. 385) and turns to the E. In the distance,
to the left, is Montreal, on an isolated hill with some interesting ruins. —
9V2 M. Guillon, beyond which we cross the Serain. 13 M. Epoisses, with an
old chateau and a fine church of the i2th cent., containing some works of
art. Farther on we cross the valley of the Armangon by a lofty viaduct
and obtain a good bird's-eye view of Semur, to the left.

21 M. Semur-en-Auxois (Cote-d'Or; du Commerce).^ a town with 3830 in-
hab., is magnificently situated on a rocky hill, almost surrounded by the
Armancon. The principal building is the church of Notre-Dame^ reached
by the street to the left as we leave the station, which was founded in
the 11th, but rebuilt in the 14th century. It is a good example of Bur-
gundian Gothic, and has three towers and a handsome porch of the 15th
century. The nave and aisles are long and narrow, and their arches are
borne by imposing clustered columns. The arches of the choir are stilted
and rest on round pillars. The choir and transepts are surrounded with
exquisite arcades, the columns of which end in carved heads. The aisles
terminate at the E. end of the church in chapels containing some fine old
paintings. Behind the pulpit is a ciborium of great delicacy of workman-
ship, originally used as a receptacle for the sacred oil. The lateral chapels
are separated from the aisles by Flamboyant and Renaissance arcades.
The first on the left contains a somewhat mutilated altar-piece of the Re-
naissance era, representing Jesus in the midst of the Doctors. In the
second is a Holy Sepulchre, and in the third are some old stained glass
and two pictures attributed to Van Loo. Two other old paintings may be
seen at the side-portal to the left. Externally this portal is adorned with
curious bas-reliefs, relating to the foundation of the church by Robert I.
of Burgundy in expiation of the murder of his father-in-law. — Descend-
ing the street in front of the church and turning to the left, we reach the
four Toners of the keep of the old castle, perched upon a rock above the
Armancon and lending a very picturesque air to this part of the town.
Farther on is the Vieux Rempatt, a small promenade affording a view of
the valley. — To the N.E. of the church stands an old Gothic Gateirav,
whence the wide Rue de la Liberte leads to the Cours, another promenade.
— In the Rue du Musc'e, to the E. of the church, is a small Museum^ con-
taining paintings and sculptures, a good geological collection, and a library
(open on Sun., 1-3). — The scholar Claude de Sawnaise, or Salmasius (1588-
1658), remembered for his controversy with John Milton, was a native
of Semur. — A steam-tramway plies from Semur to (18 M.) SavHeu (p. 385).

Beyond Semur the train soon reaches (28 M.) Man'gny-le-Ca/iouit, with
a large feudal chateau. 21) M. Pouillenay, with another old chateau, is
the junction for Epinac (p. 391). — 30 M. Les Laumes, on the line from
Paris to Di^jon, see p. 365.

From Avallon to Vezelat, 91/2 M.; carriage about 10 fr. A pictur-
esque walking- route leads through the Valley of the Cousin to (S'A M.)
Pontaubert, where the carr-age may be ordered to be in waiting. Or we
may return from Pontaubert to Avallon, take the train to "^ermizelles
(p. 383), and proceed thence by omnibus to Ve'zelay. — Pontaubert., which
is prettily situated on the Cousin, possesses an interesting church of the
12th century. Farther on, the road ascends to (5V2 M.) Fontette, and then
descends into the smiling valley of the Cure. — 8 M. St. Pere-sous- Vizelay

Le Morvan. SAULIEU. 55. Route. 385

was the original site of the monastery of Vezelay. Its interesting church,
of the 13th cent., has a fine tower and an elaborate portal, preceded by
a porch of which the original appearance has been modified.

91/2 M. Vezelay (Edtel de la Poste), an old town with 860 inhab., on
a hill commanding the valley of the Cure, was founded in the 9th cent.,
along with the new monastery established to replace that which the Nor-
mans had destroyed at St. Pere. It was here that St. Bernard preached
the Second Crusade in 114G, and here, too^ Philip Augustus and Richard
Coeur-de-Lion assumed the Cross in 1187. Theodore de Beza, the Reformer
and theologian, was born at Vezelay in 1519. — In the upper part of the
town stands the very interesting old * Abbey Churchy dedicated to the Mag-
dalen, which has been carefully restored by Viollet-le-Duc. The nave,
which dates from the 11th cent., is described by Mr. Fergusson CHist. of
Arch.'') as possessing 'all the originality of the Norman combined with the
elegance of the Southern styles'. The arches are wide and low, and there
is no triforium. 'The vault is formed by immense transverse ribs, cross-
ing from pier to pier, and forming square compartments, each divided by
plain intersecting arches, without ribs, and rising considerably in the
centre'. The capitals of the columns are noteworthy for the variety of
their treatment, and the details throughout are very fine. The nave com-
mvinicates by three richly sculptured doorways with the large narthex, or
ante-church, added at the W. end of the building in 1123-32, and consist-
ing of a nave and aisles, with galleries, an elaborate facade, and two
towers. The Gothic style is here seen side by side with the Romanesque.
The transept and the choir, built in 1198-1206, are in the earliest Gothic
style. There were originally two towers over the transept, but only that
to the S. now remains (fine view from the top). — The other buildings of
V(^.zelay are comparatively uninteresting.

From Avallon a Diligence runs to Lormes, passing Chastellux, a vil-
lage 71/2 M. to the S., on a hill on the left bank of the Cure. It is dom-
inated by a well-preserved medieeval castle, with six battlemented towers,
dating chiefly from the 13th cent, and recently restored. Lormes (p. 386)
is 9 M. farther on. — Another Diligence plies to Quarr4-les-Tombes, a
country-town with 2100 inhab., about 10 M. to the S.S.E., standing on a
hill between the valleys of the Cure and the Cousin. It owes its name
to a quantity of unused tombstones, which are to be seen near the church
and have given rise to the theory that there was a depot here for tomb-
stones in the middle ages. They were still more numerous last century,
but many of them have been carried off for building purposes. Quarre-
les-Tombes is about 6 M. from Cbastellux, the direct route to which fol-
lows the valley of the Cure. — About 3 M. to the S.E., in a wild and
picturesque part of thi^ valley of the Cousin, is the Benedictine convent of
Ste-Marie-de-la-Pierre- ui-Vire, founded in 1849.

From Avallon to Vuits-sous-RavUres, see p. 365.

At Avallon the railway to Autun leaves the valley of the Cousin.
At (39 M.) Maison-Dieu the branch-line to Les Laumes (see p. 384)
diverges to the left. 47 M. Sincey-les-Rouvray^ with coal-mines and
granite-quarries. Fine views. 51 V2 M. La-Roche-en-Brenil^ with
the old chateau of the Comte de Montalembert. The line now tra-
verses a forest and crosses the watershed between the Seine and the
Loire.

60 M. Saulieu (Hot. de la Poste), an ancient town with 3672 in-
hab., on a small hill to the right, was formerly a Roman military
station, situated on the Via Agrippa, which began at Autun. The
ancient abbey-church of St. Andoche, which dominates the town,
dates from the beginning of the 12th cent., with the exception of
the choir, which was rebuilt in the 18th cent., and the N. tower. It
has a handsome Romanesque portal. The interior is interesting for

Baedeker''s Northern France. Brd Edit 25

386 Route 55. CORBIGNY. Le Morvan.

the capitals of the pillars, a white marble tomb behind the altar,
said to be that of St. Andoche, dating from the 6th cent, but re-
cently restored, and the organ-loft, of the 15th century.

From Saulieu to Montsauche (Valley of the Cure; Corbigny; Chateau-
Chinon), 15V2 M., diligence (fare 3 fr. 25 c.) via (5 M.) Eschamps and (11 M.)
Oouloux. — Montsauche (Hotel du Pied-a-Terre), a town with 1460 inhab., is
situated in a sterile district, on the left bank of the Cure. About 2V4 M. to
the S.E., in the Valley of the Cure, is the Reservoir des Seitons, 988 acres in
extent, formed in 1848-58 by means of a dam 875 ft. long, 65 ft. high, and
16-35 ft. thick, with the object of enlarging the Cure and the Yonne for pur-
poses of floatage and navigation. The reservoir, which holds 75,460,000
cub. ft. of water, abounds in fish and is frequented during the winter by
birds of passage, — The valley of the Cure is very picturesque at places,
especially between Montsauche and Dun-les- Places, 6 M. to the N., on the
road from Saulieu to Corbigny via Lormes (see below). — The main road
divides at Montsauche, one branch running to the right, towards the W.,
to (411/2 M.) Corbigny (see below); the other leading to the left (S.) to
(16 M.) Chateau- Chinon (p. 3S7), traversing the sterile table-lands and the
forests in the centre of the Morvan district.

From Saulieu steam-tramways ply to (18 M.) Semur (p. 3S4) and to
(16 M.) Arnay-le-Duc (p. 3'jt)).

The next station after Saulieu is (66 M.) Liernais, beyond which
the view becomes finer and more extensive. The line descends again
rapidly to the valley of the Arroux, making wide detours. At (83 M.)
Dracy-St-Loup, where we join the line from Chagny to Autun, car-
boniferous slate is found. — We now enter the valley of the Arroux
and come in sight of Autun (to the left), dominated by its cathedral.
To the right we see the so-called Temple of Janus (p. 394).

88 M. Autun, see p. 391.

c. From Clamecy (Auxerre) to Paray-le-Monial (Moulins).

98 M. Railavat in 8 hrs. (fares 17 fr. 85, 12 fr. 15, 7 fr. 85 c). — To
Moulins, 102 M., railway in 92/3 brs.

Clamecy, see p. 382. This railway ascends the valley of the
Beuvron for a short distance, crosses the river three times, and en-
ters the valley of the Yonne, through which the Nivernais Canal
also passes (p. 382). — 8 M. Asnois. — 11 M. Flez-Cusy-Tannay.
Tannay has a fine church of the 14-16th centuries. To the left aro
the wooded hills of the Morvan. — 15 M. Dirol.

201/2 M. Corbigny (Hot. du Commerce), a town with 2373 in-
hab., formerly possessed an abbey to which the French monarchs
came to procure the pretended power of curing the King's Evil. The
two churches date from the 12th and from the 16th century.

Omnibus to (10 M.) Lormes (Hotel de la Poste), a town with 2886 in-
hab., prettily situated and commanding an extensive view. From Lormes
the road is prolonged over the mountains in the direction of (231/2 M.)
Saulieu (p. 38j), passing (IOV2 M.) Dun-les- Places (see above).

Beyond Corbigny the Nivernais Canal leaves the valley of the
Yonne and passes to the right, through three tunnels, into the valley
of the Aron. — 31 '/2 M. Aunay possesses two chateaux, one of the
15th and one of the 18th cent., the former in ruins. — 35 M. Tam-
nay-Chdtillon.

Le Mofvan. BOURBON-LANCY 6b. Route. 387

A Branch -Railway runs Ixence to (15 M.) Chateau-Chinon (Poste; Lion
d Or).) a town with 2650 inhab., formerly capital of the Morvan, situated
on the slope of a hill (2CXX) ft.) near the left bank of the Yonne. On the
summit of the hill, commanding a line view, are the ruins of the chateau
round which the town sprang up. Most of the fortifications of the town
have disappeared, but a gate and three towers still remain. — From Cha-
teau-Chinon to Autun, see p. 394.

A Diligence (75 c.) plies from Tamnay-Chatillon to (3V2 M.) Chdiillon-
en-Bazou, with a chateau of the Sires de Chalillon.

We next reach the valley of the Avroii, where we again see the
Canal du Nivernais. 43 '/2 ^- Moulins-Engilbert. The small town
of that name lies about 872 M- to the N.E. and is dominated by a
ruined chateau of the 13th century. — 4:6*/2 M, Vandenesse.

An Omnibus (l-lV-t fr) runs from Vandenesse to (51/2 M.) St. Honore-
les-Bains {Hotel du Fare; Morvan; des Bains; Bellevue; Villa Vaux- Mar-
tin, etc.), a small town, situated amid wooded hills on the W. slope of the
Morvan mountains, which is visited for its warm mineral springs (8U° Fahr.).
The waters contain sulphate of soda, sulphuretted hydrogen, and traces of
arsenic, and resemble those of the Pyrenean baths. St. Honore is the
Aquae Nisinei of the Romans, where Caesar built baths of marble. The
bathing-establishment is about V2 M. to the W. Above the town stands a
chateau of tlie 17th century.

At (52'/2 M.) Cercy-la-Tour (Buffet), a station on the line from
Chagny to Nevers (R. 56), we change carriages. Our line runs towards
the S. 60 M. St. Hilaire-Fontaine, with a fine priory-church, dating
in part from the 12th century. We ascend along the right bank of the
Loire. 64 M. Cronat, a small town with three interesting chateaux.

71 M. Bourbon -Lancy (Grand Hotel de VEtablissement; des
Thermes; des Bains ; de la Poste), a finely-situated town with 4162
inhab., possesses thermal springs containing chloride of sodium and
iron, which have been in use since the time of the Romans. The
large Hospital was built and endowed by the Marquis d'Aligre. —
76 M. St. Aubin-sur-Loire, with an interesting chateau.

At (79 M.) Gilly-sur-Loire we join the line from Moulins to
Macon via Paray~le-Monial and Cluny (see Baedeker' s South- Eastern
France^.

56. From Dijon to Nevers.

a. Vi£L Chagny, Montchanin, and Le Creusot.

1331/2 M. Railway in 7-71/3 hrs. (fares 24 fr. 20, 16 fr. 35, 10 fr. 70 c).
As far as Chagny we travel by the Lyons Railway.

Dijon, see p. 368. The railway crosses two arms of the Ouche and
the Canal de Bourgogne, leaving to the left the lines to Pontarlier
(R. 54) and Is-sur-Tille (R. 41b and 52b). It next passes the great
railway-workshops of the Lyons Railway, beyond which the line to
St. Amour diverges (p. 376), and skirts to the right the hills of the
Cote- d' Or, so called on account of the excellent wine grown there. —
7 M. Gevrey, the station for the celebrated wine-district of Cham-
hertin. For the Combes de Lavaux and de la Bussiere and the Fixin
Monument, see p. 376. — 10 '/2 M. Vougeot, well known to connois-
seurs as having given its name to the famous Clos-Vougeot.

25*

388 Route 56. BEAUNE. From Dijon

131/2 M. Nuits-St-Georges^ a small town with an extensive com-
merce in the wines of the surrounding district. A pyramid near the
station commemorates the hattle of Dec, 1870, in which the French
were defeated hy the Germans after a severe struggle.

About 7 M. to the E. is the ancient and celebrated Abbaye de Citeaux^
founded in 1098 and rebuilt in the 18th century. It is now used as an
agricultural reformatory.

23 M. Beaune (Buffet; Hut. de la Paste, Boul. de Bouze ; du Che-
vreuil, Rue Maufoux 53; de France, at the station), an ancient town
on the Bouzoise, with 13,726 inhah., is the centre of an extensive
commerce in all kinds of Burgundy wine.

After passing through a suburb, we enter the town between two
round Towers, relics of an old castle, and reach a square embellished
with a fine bronze statue, by Rude, of Monge (1746-1818), the
mathematician, a native of Beaune. Beyond rises the Belfry of the
old Hotel de Ville, dating from 1403 and restored in 1897. To the
left, before the Belfry, is the former Hotel de la Mare or Rochepoi
( 1523), now a bookshop, with two courts with Renaissance and Gothic
arcades. — The Rue Carnot leads to the left from the above-men-
tioned square to the Place Carnot, in which is a Monument to Presi-
dent Carnot (d. 1894), by Loiseau-Bailly.

In a street to the right stands the chateau-like *Hospital, a quaint
building in the Flemish style , founded in 1443 by Nicholas Rolin,
Chancellor of Burgundy. The exterior is simple and presents
no striking features beyond the penthouse doorway and the small
belfry on the summit of its high-pitched roof. The hospital-nurses
are nuns belonging to rich families, who wear a costume of white
in summer and blue in winter. Visitors are admitted (10-11.30 and
1-4) and will find the court-yard worthy of inspection, with two
wooden galleries, one above the other, and dormer-windows sur-
mounted by gables. The rooms are still fitted up in their original style,
one of them being decorated with mural paintings of 1682. The most
interesting treasure as a work of art is a fine *Altar-Piece presented
by the founder of the Hospital, and usually attributed to Itogier van
der Weyden. There are two similar works at Dantsic and Antwerp,
attributed to Memling and Bernard van Orley. It is composed of
fifteen panels, of which six are on the outside, and the principal
subject is the Last Judgment. The room in which it is also con-
tains a small collection of tapestry, etc. Adm. 50 c, on Sun. free.

At the end of the street is the small Place de la Halle, beyond
which we traverse the Place Fleury and the Rue de la Ro'publique.
The latter passes near the old collegiate church of Notre- Dame
(12-16th cent.), in the Place Maufoux. The church is surmounted
by a noble Gothic tower and preceded by a large open Gothic porch,
with handsome Flamboyant doorways ; but the fine apse, with its
three small round chapels, is in the Romanesque style. The nave is
roofed with barrel -vaulting, and the aisles with groined vaulting.
The Saracenic -looking arches in the transepts should be noticed.

to Nevers. CHAGNY. 56. Route. 389

The church possesses some valuable *Tapestry of the 16th cent., with
which the apse is decorated on festivals; the subjects are taken
from the life of the Virgin.

We then follow the Rue do la Repnblique to the boulevards
hounding the old town. At the Square des Lions we turn to the
right, and at the end of the Rue de Lorraine reach the monumental
Porte St. Nicolas of the 18th cent., beyond which is the Jardin
Anglais. A small street which diverges to the left (as we return)
within the gateway leads to the Hotel de Ville, formerly a convent.
The building contains a Public Library^ the Municipal Archives^ a
Gallery of Natural History^ and a small Museurn, the latter compris-
ing paintings, antiquities, and curiosities of various kinds.

From Beatjne to Aexay-lk-Duc, 26 M. Thia narrow-gauge line tra-
verses the Mils of the Cdte-cfOr (p. 387) and surmounts the Col de Laucy
(1800 ft.) by a series of rapid zigzag curves. It has stations at (3 M.) Pom-
mard and (4 M.) Volnay, both producing 'Burgundy' of the best quality.
Jrnay-le-Duc, see p. 366.

27 M. Meurmult^ noted for its white wine. Farther to the right
is Puligny, where Montrachet wine is produced. 32 M. Chagny
(Buffet; *du Commerce; de Bourgogne), a commercial town with
4600 inhab. and a station upon several railways, is situated between
the Dheune and the Canal du Centre., which joins the Saone and the
Loire (74Y2 M.) and is connected with the Canal Late'ral (p. 397).
Carriages are changed here.

Railway to Ddle., see p. 377; to Ltjons, see Baedelcer\<t South-Eastern France.

Our line now turns to the "W. and runs among mountains on
which are traces of ancient fortifications. — 35 M. Santenay (du
Commerce; Lion d'Or)^ a picturesquely situated town, with mineral
baths, V/2 M. from the station.

On the Mont de Sine or des Trois-Croix (1720 ft.), to the N., are some
antique mounds and the foundations of a temple of Mercury, besides some
curious ossiferous strata. To the S. is the ancient Camp of Chassey, with
ramparts still 45 ft. high in places.

We now diverge to the left from the line to Autun (see p. 390)
and ascend the left bank of the Dheune, on the other side of which
flows the Canal du Centre. We next traverse an industrial district,
passing several small stations, with stone-quarries, coal and iron
mines, and gypsum-quarries.

50 M. Montchanin (Buffet; Hot. des Mines; de la Gare), a town
with 4380 inhab., possessing large coal-mines and various industrial
establishments.

Fkom Montchanin to Roanne, 68 M., railway in 2^fi-i^f3 hrs. (fares
12 fr. 40, 8 fr. 30, 5 fr. 40 c). This line, the direct continuation to the
S.W. of the railway from Dijon, enters the valley of the Bourbince., and
skirts the Canal du Centre, traversing an industrial district, with coal and
iron mines, quarries, etc. — 6 M. Blanzy., with 5200 inhab. ; 9 M. Mont-
ceau-les-Mines., a town of 22,467 inhab., with coal-mines and various manu-
factories; 15 M. Cirij-le-NoUe; 18'/2 M. G4nelard; 21 M. Palingei (2265 in-
hab.). Near the station of (24 M.) La Oravoine once stood the Gallo-Roman
town of Colonia. — ^Pf-zM. Paray-le-Monial, and thence to (QS M.) Eoanne,
see Baedeker^s South-Eastern France.

Another branch-line runs from Montchanin to (17 M.) St. Gengoux.

390 Route 56. DECIZE. From Dijon

The railway to Nevers turns to the N.W. at Montchanin and
quits the valley of the Dheune.

55 M. Le Creusot (Hot. Rodrigue, R. , L. , & A. 21/2, d^j. ^1/2,
D. 3 fr.), a flourishing town with 32,000 inhab., owes its prosperity
to Schneider's Iron Works, the most important of the kind in France.
The works comprise coal-mines, furnaces, and workshops for the
construction of locomotives and other machinery, giving occupation
in all to about 15,500 people. Visitors are admitted on application
to the manager, at 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. The town contains a statue of
Eugene Schneider (1805-75), by Chapu.

The line now passes through a tunnel more than 1/2 M. long, and
descends the valley of the Mesvrin. 62^2 M. Broye. To the right
is the Signal de Montjeu (2110 ft.), beyond which, about 3 M. from
the station, is the chateau of that name (see p. 394). — At (68 M.)
Etang (Buffet) we join the line from Autun and cross the Arroux.
The town contains a modern Gothic church with a graceful spire.
A branch-line runs hence to [31 M.) Bigoin. — 82 M. Luzy (Hot.
de I'Europe; de Centre) is a small town at the base of the Op-
penelle (1246 ft,), the S. outpost of the Morvan Mts.

The line now descends the valley of the Aline. 91 M. Remilly,
Avith two ruined chateaux of the 15th cent. ; 96 M. Fours.

105 M. Cercy-la-Tour (Buffet), the junction of the line from
Clamecy via Corbigny (p. 386), is situated on the Canal du Nivernais
(p. 382), at the confluence of the Alene, the Aran, and the Canne.

110 M. Decize (Hot. des Voyageurs; du Commerce), an old town
with 5134 inhab., situated on an island in the Loire, at its con-
fluence with the Aron, and at the mouth of the Canal du Nivernais,
which we cross to reach it. It contains a church partly of the
11th cent., and the ruins of a mediaeval chateau. — The line now
runs along the right bank of the Loire. On the left bank is the
Canal Lateral a la Loire (see p. 397).

118 M. Beard. 123V2 M. Imphy, with 2546 inhab., has an im-
portant foundry. The line crosses the Nievre a little before reach-
ing Nevers, and passes round the N. side of the town, with its con-
spicuous cathedral and palace. — 133V2 M. Nevers, see p. 404.

b. Via, Chagny and Autun.
137 M. Railway in IVi-Vh lirs. (fares about 25 fr., 16 fr. 85 c, 11 fr.);
to Autun, 621/2 M., in 3V2-6V2 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 65, 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 10 c).

From Dijon to (35 M.) Santenay, see pp. 387-389. The lines to
Nevers via Montchanin and Le Creusot, and to Roanne via Paray-le-
Monial (see p. 389) diverge to the left. The railway to Autun turns
to the right into a pretty valley and passes through a short tunnel.
— 38 M. Paris-l'Hupital. To the left the Mont de Rome- Chateau
(1795 ft.) and the Mont de Rcme (1695 ft.), with traces of ancient
fortifications. The line crosses a viaduct before reaching Nolay, and
skirts the lovely vine-clad valley in which the town lies.

to Nevers. AUTUN. 56. Route. 391

41 M. THol&y (Hot. Ste. Marie), with 1200inhab., is the birthplace
ofLazare Carnot (1753-1823), the well-known member of the Direct-
ory, and of Sadi Carnot (1837-94), President of the French Re-
public. Monuments to both have been erected in the town.

About 2V2 M. to the E. are the imposing ruins of the Chateau de la
Rochepot (13th cent.), above the village of the same name.

The line now passes over a curved viaduct and through a tunnel
1300 yds. long. — 49 M. Epinac (Hot. des Mines), a town with 4145
inhab., the centre of an important coal-mining district, the pro-
ducts of which are transported by a special railway, 17 M. long, to
Pont-d^ Ouche, on the Canal de Bourgogne. Lines, to Les Laumes and
to Dijon, see pp. 366, 376. — Farther on, to the right, are the ruins
of the Chateau d'Epinac (14th cent.). — 53 M. St. Leger-Sully.
St. Le'ger-du-Bois possesses mines of carboniferous slate. At Sully
are a fine chateau of the 16th cent., and the ruins of another chateau.
— At (571/2 M.) Drac\)-St-Loup we join the line to Auxerre via
Avallon (p. 384). We now see, to the left, the spire of Autun cath-
edral, and, to the right, the so-called Temple of Janus (p. 394).

621/2 M. Autun. — Hotels. *St. Louis et de la Poste (PI. a; C, 2),
Hue de I'Arbalete, R. from 2, dej. or D. 3 fr. ; TfixE-NoiKE (PI. b; C, 2),
Rue de TArquebuse; des NfiGociANTS et de la Cloche, Place du Champ-
de-Mars 6. — Cafes near the hotels and in the Champ-de-Mars. — Buffet
at the station. — Baths, Rue de TArbalete 17.

A large Fair takes place at Autun during the first fortnight in Sep-
tember, on the festival of St. Lazare or St. Ladre, and strangers are re-
commended not to choose this period for a visit to the town.

Autun, an industrial town with 15,543 inhab. and the see of a
bishop, occupies a pleasant situation on the slope of a hill, adjoined
on the S. by other wooded hills.

Autun was the Augustodunum of the Romans, having supplanted Bibracte,
the capital of the ^dui (p. 394), and was a flourishing town with cele-
brated schools during the Roman Empire. St. Symphorien was martyred
here in 179 A.D.; and St. Leger, bishop of Autun, saved the town from
the wrath of Ebroi'n, Mayor of the Palace, by delivering himself to the
enemy, who put out his eyes and beheaded him. The town was ravaged
by the Barbarians, the Saracens, the Normans, and the English, and has
long since lost its importance. It now covers barely half of its former
extent, which was 3V2 M. in circumference. The Roman walls still partly
exist, but are nearly all hidden from view by foliage or modern build-
ings , besides being defaced and despoiled of their towers . which were
sixty-two in number.

On leaving the station (PI. B, 3), we follow the Avenue de la
Gare, on the left, to the Champ -de-Mars (PI. C, 3), where stand
the Theatre, a fine modern building, and the Hotel de Ville. The
groundfloor of the latter serves as a market, and the first floor
contains a small museum (see p. 392). To the right, at the end of
the square, is the College (PI. C, 3), built by the Jesuits in 1709,
with a Natural History Museum. To the left is the Church of Notre-
Bame, completed after the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1763.

Ascending to the left, by the Rues St. Saulge, Chauchien, and
des Bancs, we reach the Cathedral of St. Lazare (PI. D, E, 3), for-

392 Route 56. AUTUN From Dijon

merly tlie chapel of the chateau of the Dukes of Burgundy, founded
in 1060, hut dating in its present form mainly from the 12th century.
The beautiful Gothic spire above the intersection of the nave and
transept was added in the 15th century. The W. facade is preceded
by a large triple porch, the central part of which is covered with
semicircular, the aisles with pointed vaulting. It is flanked with
two towers, partly restored in 1873. In the gable of the W. door is
a fine *Grroup of the Last Judgment. The S. portal is in the Ro-
manesque style, and has also been restored. The transept projects
very slightly and has no aisles.

The interior is very simple in style, and the arrangement of the nave
is very similar to that of the great abbey-church of Cluny (see Baedeker's
South- Eastern France). The place of columns is taken by fluted pilasters
with curious capitals. The aisles are adjoined by chapels of the 15th and
16th centuries. The 1st on the left contains a kind of altar-piece of the
IGth cent, in a handsome frame. The 2nd and 4th on the left and the
5th and 6th on the right contain some good stained glass. The 3rd on
the left has a modern relief of St. Antony, the 4th a Pieta, by Guercino,
and a Raising of Lazarus, the 5th a large mural painting by Ed. Krug.
The choir is embellished with fine modern stained glass, and the apse is
richly decorated with variously coloured marbles (18th cent.). A reliquary
in the apse contains the remains of St. Lazare. In the right transept is
a large painting by Ingres, representing the martyrdom of St. Symphorien
(p. 301). To the right of the choir, on the same side, is the monument
of the president Jeannin (d. 1622), councillor of Henri IV, and his wife,
with kneeling figures of the defunct in white marble. The treasury con-
tains a very ancient specimen of Oriental weaving in silk.

Near the portal of the cathedral is the Fontaine St. Lazare, a
Renaissance work. The Bishop's Palace (PI. D, 3), at the N. end
of the Place, was the palace of the Dukes of Burgundy down to
the 13th cent., but has been rebuilt since then.

No. 3, Rue des Bancs (see p. 391), is the former Hotel llollin
(PI. D, 3), of the loth cent., which now contains a small Archaeo-
logical Museum (adm. 50 c, two or more pers. 25 c. each). — We
now traverse the Place d'Hallencourt, to the right of the Palais de
Justice, and turn to the right via the Rues Piolin, St. Antoine (in
which is the Grand-Seminaire, with Romanesque cloisters^, and des
Marbres, which lead to the handsome Promenade des Marbres,
whence a fine view is obtained. At the beginning of the promen-
ade, to the right, is a School of Cavalry, formerly the Petit Seminaire,
an imposing building dating from 1669, with gardens laid out by Le
Notre. In the court of a house facing this end of the promenade are
the scanty remains of a so-called Temple of Apollo (PI. C, D, 2). A
statue oi Divitiacus, the .^d\ian, by A. Gravillon, was erected on
the promenade in 1893. Tlie marble seats, which give the promen-
ade its name, belonged to the Roman Theatre (PI. C, 1), slight traces
of which remain near the other end of the promenade. Farther on
were a 'Naumachia' and an amphitheatre. — We return to the
Champ-de-Mars by the Rue de I'Arqiiobuse.

The Museum, in the Hotel de Ville (see p. 391), is open to the
public on Sun., from 1-4, and to strangers on other days also. En-

to Nevers. AUTUN. 56. Route. 393

trance at the end of the right arcade. To the left is a small col-
lection of natural history; to the right are the art-collections.

Room I. No. 44. Soyer., The forge; 19. Lassale-Bordes, Deatli of Cleopa-
tra; 57. Castellani, Squadron of cuirassiers trying to pierce the German lines
at Sedan; 25. Glaize, Gallic women, an episode of the Roman invasion. —
Bdguine, David victorious (bronze figure); casts.

Room IT. No. 30. Appert, Portrait of Le Notre; 12. Caminade, Young
Greek going to sacrifice; 40. Humbert, The abduction, scene during the
invasion of Spain by the Saracens; no number, Vernet-Lecomie., A Pene-
lope; 22. Barrias, Captive Gaul and his daughter at Rome. In the middle
of the room: Mme. Bertaux , Young prisoner (bronze); 'Vce Victoribus' ;
small antiquities.

Room III. No. 15. Guignet, Fray; 28. Horace Vernet, Capture of the
Malakoff; 7. French School, Portrait of President Jeannin. In the middle
of the room, a plaster statue of the same, by Lhomme de Mercey. A glass-
case contains souvenirs of General Changarnier, a native of Autun. 9. Ho-
race Vernet, Battle of Somah; 31. Ary Scheffer, Portrait of Changarnier. —
Busts of MacMahon and Changarnier, by Grauk.

Room IV. No. 42. Didier, Landscape; 29. Dubtns.w7i, Pioneers of ci-
vilisation. — Antiquities; modern medals and wreaths.

Room V. No. 52. Teniers the Younger, St. Jerome; 41. L. Bakhuhen,
Sea-piece; 51. Teniers, Two hermits; 14. Flemish School, Village-festival; 2.
Teniers, Large landscape; 32. Florentine School, St. Francis of Assisi; 33.
Umhrian School, Madonna; 3. Dubbets, Landscape; 50. School of Oiotto,
Scourging of Christ, and the Crucilixion; no number, /<a/ia» ;Sc7ioo^, Pieta;
49. Italian School, Nativity. In the middle of the room is a glass-case
containing small bronze antiquities.

By following the Rue Gueriri, to the left of the Hotel de Ville,
and then (still to the left) the Rue Deguin , the Petite and the
Grande Rue Marchaux (with a handsome Tower; PI. C, 2), and the
Rue St. Nicolas, we reach the Chapelle St. Nicolas (PI. B, 2), contain-
ing the Museum of Inscriptions (keeper at the entrance).

On the left side of the chapel are a bas-relief of Mercury in a niche,
a fine antique marble sarcophagus with a representation of a boar-hunt,
several small sculptures, and various fragments of sculptures. The graceful
apse contains an altar with a celebrated Christian inscription in Greek,
found in 1839. To the right are some sculptures of the middle ages and
the Renaissance, an old Christian sarcophagus, and a magnificent entab-
lature. In the middle is a large mosaic. In the outhouse are some struc-
tural fragments , the sarcophagus of Brunhilda (epitaph renewed in 1767),
other sarcophagi, cippi with bas-reliefs, and a handsome fountain-basin.
The old cemetery in front of the chapel also contains some sculptures be-
longing to the museum.

The street to the left of St. Nicolas, and the Rue de la Croix-
Blanche, lead to the fine old Porte St. Andre (PL B, 1), part of the
ancient fortifications of the town, restored in 1847 by VioUet-le-
Duc. A tower to the left is also a relic of the fortifications. The
gateway is 65 ft. high and 45 ft. wide, and is pierced by four arch-
ways, two for carriages and two for foot-passengers. Round the
upper part of the gateway runs an arcaded gallery, supported by
Ionic pilasters, and connecting the ramparts on each side of the gate.

The street to the left on this side of the gateway leads back to
the Rue de Paris, at the point where it crosses the railway. On the
other side of the railway, near the river, is the Porte d'Arroux
(PI. A, 2), a still more interesting structure, and unspoiled by re-

394 Route 56. BEUVRAY.

storation. It is 55 ft. higli and 62 ft. broad, and is also pierced by
four archways, surmounted by a gallery. The latter, which now re-
tains only seven of the original ten arches, is supported by Corinth-
ian pilasters.

When the water is low, we may cross the river by a ford a little
farther to the left, in order to visit the so-called Temple of Janus
(PI. A, 3); when this is not possible, we must return to the other
side of the railway, skirt the line to the right, descend beyond the
station, and cross the bridge. The remains, which are uninterest-
ing, are those of an outwork of the fortifications in the form of a
square tower, and consist of two walls 78 ft. high and 55 ft. broad,
with arches, niches, and windows. — The Pierre de Cow/iard (PI. E, 1),
a pyramid of masonry about 88 ft. high, about 1 M. to the S.W. of
the Promenade, is supposed to be the tomb of Divitiacus.

An interesting excursion may be made to the Chdtecm de Montjeu, about
3V2 M. to the S., either by the road tr. versing the suburb of St. Blaise,
or by the steeper route via Couhard and the 'Maison des Chevres'. It
stands in the midst of a large park extending to within 2 M. of Autun
and containing tv?o ponds vfhich formerly fed the principal Roman aque-
duct at Autun. The chateau was in existence before the 13th cent., but
has been rebuilt several times since then. To the S. of the park is the
Signal de Montjeu (2110 ft.), commandinii a beautiful view. The station
of Broye is about 3 M. to the S. (see p. 390).

From Autun to Auxerre^ see pp. 383-386.

From Autun to Chateau-Chinon, 23V'i M., diligence daily in 5 hrs.
The road crosses the Arroux (PI. A, 3) and proceeds to the N.W. across
a plain and through woods. — 8 M. La Selle or La Celle-en-Morvan, a vil-
lage with slate-mines, owes its name to the hermitage ('cella') where
St. Mery of Autun lived at the end of the Tth cent., the site of which is
now covered by the church. Some antiquities have been discovered here.
La Selle is a good centre for interesting excursions into the mountains. —
For some distance beyond La Selle the road ascends the picturesque valley
of the Canche, at the end of which rises the Pic du Bois-du-Roi (2960 ft.),
the highest summit of the Morvan Mountains. It takes about 4 hrs. to
make the ascent and descent, starting from the tavern, about 3V2 M. from
La Selle, near which the road leaves the river. — 12 M. Le Pommoy. The
road ascends for 3-4 M., and then descends again into the valley of the
Yonne. — 17 M. Arlerif^ a village with 2650 inhab., is said to derive its
name from the sterile' district ('aridus locus') in which it is situated. At
(21 M.) Pont-Charrot the road crosses the Yonne, about 51/2 M. to the N.
of its source. — 23V2 M. Chdteau-Chinon, see p. 387.

From Autun to the Keuvrat, highroad for 13V2 M., then a path for
I-IV4 hr. more. Beyond the Arroux (PI. A, 3) we turn to the left into
the road from Lu/y to Moulins, which we leave 2V2 31. farther on and
turn to the right. — After reaching (3V2 M.) Monthelon^ we catch glimpses
of the Beuvray (see below). — 11 M. St- L4ger-souK-Beuvray (l^tX) inhab.).
The road now skirts the Beuvray to the left. Before (13 Va^'-) Le Poirier-
au-Chien a path diverges to the left, by which the ascent may be made
in I-IV4 hr.

The Beuvray (2690 ft.) is now crowned only by shapeless ruins, a
cross, and a modern chapel, but discoveries made in 1865-88 have placed
it beyond a doubt that this is the height on which formerly stood the
.^duan 'oppidum' of Bibracte. This Gallic fortress even in the time ot
CiT-sar had become a centre of industry and commerce, specially renowned
for its metal-work and enamelling. Massilian merchants flocked to the
town during the festival of the goddess Bibracte, whose temple stood on
the site now occupied by the chapel. The town began to be deserted at
the commencement of the Christian era after the foundation of Autun

MONTARGIS. 57. Route. 395

(comp. p. 391), but the Gauls still continued to assemble here, and a fair
is annually held on the site on the 1st Wed. in May.

Beyond Autun the railway to Nevers continues to follow the
valley of the Arroux. 67 Y2 M. Brion-Laisy. A little farther on,
to the right, we see the ruins of the Chateau de Chazeu. — At (77 M.)
Etang (Buffet) we join the preceding line (p. 390).

57. From Paris to Nevers.

a. Via Fontainehleau and Montargis.

1571/2 M. Railway in 43/4-71/2 hrs. (fares 28 fr. 55, 19 fr. 30, 12 fr. 60 c).
We start from the Gare de Lyon. This line forms part of the railway to
Lyons via the Bourbonnais (see p. 359). It is very dusty in summer, and
the end-carriages of the express-trains are particulary uncomfortahJe in
this respect.

From Paris to (41 1/2 M.) Moret, see pp. 359-361. We now turn
to the right from the railway to Dijon, the curved viaduct of which
we see to the left (p. 361), and ascend the valley of the Loing. —
461/2 M. Montigny-Marlotte. From (49 M.) Bourron a branch-rail-
way runs to (I61/2 M.) Malesherbes (p. 399).

54 M. Nemours (*Ecu-de-France; St. Pierre), a town of 4600 in-
hab., formerly capital of a duchy, still lends its title to a branch of the
Orleans family. A statue of the mathematician Bezout (1730-83)
was erected here in 1885. The Church dates from the 13-1 6th cent.,
the old Chateau from the 12-1 5th.

The line now skirts the Canal du Loing, which, along with those
of Briare and Orle'ans (see below), connects the Seine with the Loire.
To the left are rocky hills. — We cross the Loing before reaching
(60 M.) Souppes, the name of which has been derived from Caesar's
lieutenant Sulpicius, who built a bridge here.

A narrow-gauge branch -line runs hence to (3V2 M.) Chateau-Landon
(Lion dWr), a small and ancient town, with a few interesting buildings,
and quarries of a hard kind of stone which takes on a polish like marble.

67 M. Ferrieres-Fontenay. Ferrieres, nearly 1 M. to the S.E. of
the station, formerly possessed an important abbey, of which a
chapel and an interesting church (12-15th cent.) still remain.

72 M. Montargis (Buffet; Hot. de la Poste; de la Gare), with
11,300 inhab., is situated at the confluence of the Loing and the Ver-
nlsson and at the junction of the canals of the Loing (see nbove),
of Briare (p. 397), and of Orle'ans (p. 274). A pleasant avenue
leads from the station to the (1/2 M.) town, crossing the canal-
ized Loing. The Eglise de la Madeleine is an interesting building
of the 13-16th cent, with a modern tower (recently restored). In
front of it is a Statue of Miraheau (1749-91), by Granet. The Hotel
de Ville contains a small Picture Gallery, comprising some works
by Girodet-Trioson, a native of the town. Thfe 'Dog of Montargis'
which, is said to have recognized the murderer of its master and
overcome him in judicial combat, is commemorated by a bronze

396 Route 57. GIEN. From Paris

group, by Debrie, in front of the Hotel de Ville. The rains of the
Chateau (12-15th cent.) are in private grounds to the N. of the town.

Railway to Corheil, see p. 399; railway to OrUans, see p. 274.

From Montargis to Sens (railway from Orleans to Chalons - sur-
Marne), 38V2 M., an uninteresting branch-railway. At first the train ascends
the valley of the Ouanne, and traverses the Gdtinais, an old French district,
noted for its honey. — 11 M. Chdteau-Benard ^ a small town with the re-
mains of an old castle, a church of the 11th and 13th cent., and a chateau
of the 17th century. — 14 M. Triguhres^ the site of a Roman station, as the
ruins of a theatre and of baths testify. A dolmen also exists here.

Railway to Clamecy, see below. — 22V2 M. Courtenay, another small
town, has given its name to two historic families from whom have sprung
three Counts of Edessa and three Emperors of Constantinople. Its present
chateau dates from the 18th century. — 38V2 M. Sens-Lyon, also a station
on the railway to Lyons via Dijon (see p. 364).

From Montargis to Clamkct (the Morvan), 64'/2 M., railway in 4V4-
43/4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 95, 5 fr. 15 c). We follow the railway to
Sens as far as (14 M.) Trigu^res (see above), turn to the S., and continue
to ascend the beautiful valley of the Ouanne. To the left is the fine Chateau
de la BrMerie. — 18 M. Douc/iy, containing a church with handsome stalls.
Beyond (26 M.) St. Mariin-sur-Ouanne, to the right, stands the Chateau de
Hautefeui/ le, dominating the valley, and at Malicorne^ l'/2 M. to the S.,
is the ruined Chateau Duplesaeys , destroyed by the English in ttie l?th
century. 29V2 M. Grandchamp, with a Renaissance chateau. At (33 M.)
Villiers-St-BenoH are some structures of the 16th cent. , formerly belon:-;-
ing to an abbey. 8872 M. Towry- FiV^e, with 3300 inhab., a modern chateau,
aud the remains of a 14th cent, castle, was the birthplace of P. Larousse
(1815-75), the lexicographer (monument). 40 M. Toucy-Moulins, also a sta-
tion on the railway from Gien to Auxerre (see p. 397) ; 44V2 M. Fontenoy,
Fontenay., or Fontanet, where Charles the Bald and Louis the German
defeated their brother Lothair in 841. The line now diverges to the left
from the railway to Gien, and, after ascending for some distance, descends
again into the valley of the Yonne. 56V2 31. Druyes, commanded by a
ruined chateau, dating in part from the 12th century. — At (62 M.) Surgy
we join the railway from Auxerre to Clamecy (p. 382).

8OY2 M. Solterres. Beyond (841/2 M.) Nogent-sur-Vernisson the
railway quits the basin of the Seine for that of the Loire.

96 M. Gien {Buffet; Hot. de I'Ecu, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1, dej.
21/2, D- 3 fr., omn. 40 c), a town with 8270 inhab., situated on
the right bank of the Loire, IV4 M. to the S. of the station, pos-
sesses an important faience manufactory. The town is commanded
by a fine Chateau (now the Palais de Justice), dating from the end
of the 15th cent., beside which is a Church in the classic style, with
a Gothic tower. The stained-glass windows of the church and the
curious modern stations of the Cross in the interior may be men-
tioned. Near the twelve-arched bridge at the end of the main street
stands a colossal Statue of Vercingetorix by Mouly.

Branch -railway to Orleans, see p. 274. — Another branch runs (0 (14 M.)
Argent (p. 399), via Poilly and Cotillons (3000 inhab.).

From Gien to Auxerre, 57 M., railway in 3V2-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. \0,
6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 55 c). — At (9 M.) Ouzouer-stir-Trizee we cross the Canal
de Briare (see p. 397). At (15 M.) BUneau^ on the Loing, the Prince
de Condi' was defeated by Turenne in 1652. — 23 M. St. Farg-cau (IJdtel
de la Fontaine), a town with 2580 inhab., possesses a large Chdtean, founded
in the 15th cent., but almost entirely rebuilt in the 17-18th centuries. —
30 M. St. Sauvevr-cn-Puisaie has a chateau of the 17th cent., with a don-
jon tower dating from the Uth century. At (35 M.) Fontenoy we join
the railway from Clamecy to Montargis via Trigu6res (see above), and

to Nevers. SANCERRE. 57. Route. 397

follow it as far as (40 M.) Toucy-Moulins. — 46V2 M. Diges-Pourrain are
two large villages, the former with ruins and a handsome church, and the
latter finely situated on a hill. Beyond (53V2 M.) Auxerre-St-Amdire the
line crosses the Yonne. View to the left. — 57 M. Auxerre, see p. 380.

The scenery now becomes finer. A little farther on, the Loire is
seen to the right, and we seldom lose sight of it again for any con-
siderable interval during the rest of our journey.

This great river is the largest in France (TOO M. long), but its bed is
wide and shallow and great part of it is dry during summer. This is
particulary noticeable beyond Neuvy. In the wet season, however, the
Loire sometimes rises upwards of 20 ft. and causes terrible inundations,
which are only imperfectly resisted by an extensive system of dykes, or
'levies', and dams. The shifting of the sand and the banks which it forms
make the navigation of the river difficult and even impossible at places.

102"/2 M. Briare (Hot. de la Poste), a town with 5814 inhab.,
produces large quantities of so-called 'porcelain' buttons, made of
feldspar rendered plastic by milk, a process introduced by M. Bap-
terosses, who is commemorated by a bust (by Chapu ; 1897) in tho
Grande-Place. The town is situated on the Loire at the head of the
Canal de Briare, which joins the Canal du Loing and thus connects
the Loire with the Seine.

This canal, begun in 1604, is 36V2 M. lung, and is prolonged to the S.
by the Canal Latiral a la Loire., which in turn is connected with the Canal
du Centre (p.390j and has, including its ramifications, a total length of 130M.

Farther on, to the right, our line passes near the town and the
junction of the Canal with the Loire. — Beyond (1131/2 M.) Neuoy-
sur-Loire we have a fine view of the valley to the right. The sur-
rounding district pastures a valuable breed of white cattle, peculiar
to the Nivemais. — 121 Y2 M. Cosne (Grand Cerf), an old and in-
dustrial town with 8610 inhab., situated on the right bank of the
liOire, here crossed by a suspension-bridge.

Fkom Cosne to Bourges. 42 M., railway in V/i-2^/i hrs. (fares 7 fr. 60,
5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 35 c). — 71/2 M. St. Satur, a village at the foot of the hill
of Sancerre, contains a beautiful but unfinished canonical church of the
15th century, — 81/2 M. Sancerre (Foint-du-Jour), an old and ill-built town
with 3300 inhab., is finely situated on a steep hill (1000 ft.), in the midst
of an undulating country that produces good red and white wines. On
account of its position Sancerre, which had embraced Protestantism, was
one of the bulwarks of the Huguenots and sustained several sieges, the
most famous being that of 1573, which lasted eight months and was ac-
companied by a dreadful famine. A relic of the fortifications, the so-called
Tour des Fiefs, dating from the 14th cent., is still to be seen in the park
of the modern Renaissance Chateau, near which also is the Romanesque
Church, restored in the interior. — The following stations are unimportant.
42 M. Bourges, see p. 401.

Fkom Cosne to Clamecy, 39 M., railway in 2-23/4 hrs. (fares 7fr. 5, 4 fr.
75, 3 fr. 10 c). This line follows the valley of the Nohain. — 13 M. Donzy
(Grand Monarque), an ancient town with 3000 inhab., has a Church of the
12th and 13th cent, and a Donjon of the former chateau. In the neigh-
bourhood are two ruined priories. — 23 M. Entrains, a small town of
ancient origin (Intaranum), where the ruins of a temple of Augustus and
other antiquities have been discovered. — 39 M. Clamecy, see p. 382.

127 M. Tracy- Sancerre, 3 M. distant from Sancerre (see above),
to which omnibuses ply (90 c). — 133 M. Pouilly-sur-Loire lies
in a pleasant country, dotted with handsome chateaux, and is the

398 Route 57. CORBEIL. From Paris

centre of a wine-growing district which produces an excellent white
wine. At(136Y2M.) Mesves-Bulcy v/e come in sight of the Morvan
Mountains (to the left; p. 380).

I4OV2 M. La Charite (Hot. de la Poste et du Grand- Monarque;
du Dauphin; de la Gare), a town with 5340 inhab., owes its name
to an ancient Cluniac priory. It suffered much from the wars of the
middle ages , like most towns on the banks of the Loire, and still
more from the religious wars. The Romanesque church of Ste. Croix,
though partly destroyed by fire, is still interesting.

1491/2 M. Pougues-les-Eaux (Splendid Hotel^ pens, from 12 fr. ;
Gr. Hot. du Pare; Guimard; de la Gare, etc.), a pleasantly situated
town with 1560 inhab., is frequented on account of its cold mineral
springs , which contain carbonates of lime and iron. It contains an
Etablissementdes Bains^ with baths, drinking-fountains, a casino, etc.
153 M. Fourchambault (Rot. des Forges), a town with 6C20 in-
hab., possesses extensive iron-works. — The lines to the Morvan
(RR. 55 and 56) diverge as we approach Nevers. The large buildings
near the station are those of St. Giidard , the headquarters of the
Nevers sisterhood, who devote themselves to the work of education.
— 1571/2 M. Nevers, see p. 404.

b. Yik Corbeil and Montargis.

162 M. Railway in 5V4-8V4 hrs., the fares being the same as by the
above-mentioned line. We start from the Gare de Lyon. See p. 359.

From Paris to (9 M.) ViUeneuve- St -Georges, and thence to
(2OY2 M.) Corbeil, see p. 359.

Corbeil (Hot. de la Belle- Image; Bellevue), an old town with
9182 inhab., situated at the confluence of the .Seine and the Es-
sonne, has an extensive commerce in grain and flour. The avenue
which begins at the station leads to the Moulins de Corbeil, the
largest flour-mills in France (no admission). A little beyond this
are the Hotel de Vilie and the handsome Galignani Monument, by
Chapu, commemorating the well-known Paris publishers (Anthony,
d. 1873; William, d. 1882), who were substantial benefactors of
(Jorbeil. The Rue Notre-Dame and Rue St. Spire lead thence past
the fine Gothic Porte St. Spire (14th cent.) to the church of St. Spire,
a Gothic building of the 12th, 13th, and 15th centuries. In the first
chapel to the right are the tombs of the founder of the church, Hay-
mon, Count of Corbeil (d. 957), and of the founder of the college,
Bourgoin de Corbeil (d. 1661). — About 1 M. to the S.W. lies the
village of Es tonnes, with a large paper-mill (3000 workmen) ; visit-
ors admitted. — From Corbeil to Montereau (Dijon), see p. 359.

Our line now ascends the marshy valley of the Essonne. Near
(29 M.) Ballancourt is the powder-mill of Le Bouchet. To the right
are extensive *peat-hags", to the left rocky hills. 33 M. La Ferte-

to Nevers. MALESHERBES. 57. Route. 399

Alais has a church of the 12th century. We next pass through a
wooded country.

471/2 M. Malesherbes (Lion d'Or), a town with 2215 inhab., has
a church of the 13th cent., containing a bust of Malesherbes (1721-
04), minister and defender of Louis XVI. A bronze Statue of Captain
Lelfevre (1800-1851), by Leroux, commemorates that soldier's
defence of Mazagran (Algeria; 1840) for 4 days with 123 men
against 12,000 Arabs. — About 3/^ M. to the S. is the 17th cent.
Chateau de Malesherbes (visitors admitted), and^/^M. to the N. is the
splendid Chateau de Rouville^ of the 15th cent., with crenelated
and machicolated towers.

From Malesherbes a branch-railway runs to (40 M.) Orleans (p. 274),
via (12 M.) Pithiviers (Poste; Gringoire), a town with 5820 inhab., pos-
sessing a Renaissance church with a lofty tower, and statues of the mathe-
matician Poisson (1781-1840), and of the agriculturalist Duhamel de Monceuu
(1700-1782). It is noted for its almond-cakes and lark-pies.

Other branch-railways run to (I6V2 M.) Bourron (Moret; p. 395), and
to Toury (p. 264).

About 1 M. to the left of (51 V2 M.) La Brosse is the Chateau
d'' Angerville (16th cent.), formerly a possession of the Berryer family.
The church of (55 M.) Puiseaux contains modern paintings by
P. Baize and a Holy Sepulchre of the 15th century. — 59^2 ^•
Beaumont-en- Gdtinais^ with an old chateau.

63 M. Beaune-la-Rolande Junction. The town lies about 21/2 M.
to the S.W. and is reached by the branch-railway mentioned below.

From Beaune-la-Rolande to Bourges, 84 M., railway in 33/4-6V3 hrs.
(fares 15 fr. 20, 10 fr. 30, 5 fr. 55 c). The country through which this
line runs is monotonous and uninteresting. — 2V2 M. Beaune-la-Rolande,
a small town known by the undecisive engagement which took place here
between the French and Germans, on 28th Nov., 1870. 8V2 M. Belle-
garde-Quiers, also a station on the railway from Orleans to Montargis
(p. 274). Near (12 M.) Beauchamps the line crosses the Canal d^OrUans.
17 M. Lorris^ a town with 21(0 inhab., was the birthplace of Guillaume de
Lorris (d. ca. 1260), the author of the 'Roman de la Rose', known to Eng-
lish readers from Chaucer's version of it. At (25V2 M.) Les Bordes our
line intersects the railway from Orle'ans to Gien (p. 274).

291/2 M. Sully-sur-Loire (Poste), a town with 267U inhab., on the left bank
of the Loire, which the train crosses here. Its original manor afterwards
became a barony and was created a duchy by Henri IV in favour of
his minister Maximilien de Bethune, Baron de Rosny, better known under
the name of Sully. The Chateau built by him about 1602, to which he
retired after the assassination of the king, is still in good preservation.
Its court contains a marble statue of Sully, erected in the 17th century.

Near (45 M.) Argent, a place of 2080 inhab., we cross the Canal de
la Snuldre (p. 400). Branch - railway to Gien, see p. 396. — 60 M. La
Ghapelie d^Anguillon, with a chateau of the 15-17th cent.; 66V2 M. Hen-
richemont, a town with 3640 inhab., founded by Sully in 1609, and peopled
exclusively by tanners. 711/2 M. Menetou - Salon , with a fine chateau.
Farther on we join the line from Bourges to Saincaize-Nevers. — 84 M.
Bourges, see p. 401.

71 1/2 M. Mii^neres-Gondreville. — At (72 M.) Montargis we
join the preceding line (p. 395).

400 Route 57. VIERZON. From Paris

c. Via, Orleans and Bourges.

187 M. Railway in 7V2-11 hrs. (fares 33 fr. 80, 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 95 c).
Railway to OrUans^ see p. 2625 to Bourges^ 144 M., in 4-8V4 hrs. (fares
28 fr. 70, 21 fr. 55, 15 fr. 80 c). We start from the Gare d'Orle'ans, near
the Jardin des Plantes (PI. G, 25 ; p. 1). See also the Map, p. 100.

From Paris to (75 M.) Orleans^ see R. 35. Leaving tlie Gave
des Aubrais (p. 264), our line skirts the N. side of Orleans and crosses
the Loire by a stone bridge affording a good view of the city. —
89 M. La FerU-St-Auhin ^ a very old town with 3437 inhab., con-
tains a church of the 12th century. — 98Y2 M. Lamotte-Beuvron,
on the BeuvroUj is situated at the end of the Canal de la Sauldre
(27 M. in length), by which are imported large quantities of marl
from the neighbourhood of Sancerre for the improvement of the soil
of the Sologne (see below). It has a chateau of the 16-17th cent.,
now used as a model farm. — Beyond (1021/2 M.) Nouan-le-
Fuzelier the train crosses the plateau of the Sologne.

The Sologne, which occupies an area of about 2000 sq. M., was down
to 1860 a sterile and marshy region. The number of ponds in it was
reckoned at 1200, and the total population was about 100,000, or less than
50 per sq. M. Previously it had been a flourishing and well -peopled
district; its ruin dated from the Religious Wars and the wholesale emi-
gration of its Huguenot inhabitants after the Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes in 1685. Government and an agricultural association for the pur-
pose have done much to render it healthy and to restore its ancient pros-
perity, especially by draining the ponds, planting pines on an extensive
scale, and constructing roads and canals. The population has already in-
creased 50 per cent.

We cross the Orande-Sauldre before reaching (110 M.) Salbri<,
an industrial and commercial town, with an interesting church
containing some fine stained glass. 118 M. Theillay. Farther on we
pass through a tunnel ^^M. long (with air-shafts) and traverse the
forest of Vierzon.

124 M. Vierzon (Bu/fet; Hot. des Messageries; du Boeuf), an in-
dustrial town with 11,390 inhab., is situated on the Cher and the
Canal du Berry, at the point where the railway to Bourges and
Nevers branches off from the main line of the Central Railway
(Limoges-Toulouse; see Baedeker's South- Western France). It is
also the junction of a branch-line to Tours (p. 283). — Our lino
crosses the Yevre and the canal, passes through a tunnel, and then
leaves the main line on the right. The branch to Bourges skirts the
canal on the left.

130 1/2 M. Foecy. — 1331/2 M. Maun- sur -Yevre (Hot. Charles
VII), a town with 6334 inhab., contains the remains of the cha-
teau where Charles VII. starved himself to death in 1461 through
dread of being poisoned by his son, afterwards Louis XI. — Beyond
(138^2 M.) Marmagne the line to Montluvon (see Baedeker's South-
western France) diverges to the right. We then cross the Canal
du Berry and the Ycvre. — 144 M. Bourges (Buffet).

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to Never s. BOURGES. 57. Route. 40!

Bourges. — Hotels. Boule d'Ok (PI. a; C, 2), Place Gordaine^ de
France (PI. b •, B, 2), Place Planchat, R. from 3, dej.3, D. 31/2 fr.; Jacques-
CcEUR (PI. c; B, 3), Rue des Arenes 35, rebuilt; Central (PI. oe; B, 3),
Place des Quatre-Piliers and Rue Jacques-Coeur, well spoken of.

Cafes. Grand-Cafd, Rue Moyenne 16; Caf4 des Beaux- Arts ^ near the
Ecole des Beaux-Arts.

Cabs. Per 'course' IV2 fr. ; per hr. 21/2 fr. , each additional br. 2V4 fr.

Electric Tramways from the Station to tbe Arsenal (PI. D, 2) via tbe
Boul. de la Republique; to tbe Ecole de Pyrotechnie^ (PI. D, 4) via the Rue
Moyenne; and to the Faiibourg de Si. Amand via the Boul. Gambetta.
Fares 10, 15 c.

Post & Telegraph Office, Place Berry (PI. B, 3).

Bourges.^ tlie ancient capital of Berry, now the chief place in the
Departement duCher, the headquarters of the Yllth Corps d'Armee,
and the seat of an archbishop, is a town with 45,590 inhab., situ-
ated in the midst of a flat country, at the confluence of the Yevre
and the Auron. It contains a large arsenal and a gun-foundry.

This town is the Avaricum of tbe Romans, the capital oi the Bituriges,
which Julius Casar captured and sacked in 52 B.C., in spite of tbe heroic
resistance described in bis Commentaries. It afterwards became the capital
of Aquitania Prima, and was successively taken by Euric, King of the
Visigoths, Clovis, Pepin tbe Short, and the Xorraans. After a period of in-
dependence it eventually passed to the crown of France and, for a time,
in the reign of Charles VII., even became tbe capital of the kingdom,
until tbe deliverance of Orle'ans by Joan of Arc in 1429. Bourges, however,
retained some importance as capital of tbe duchy of Berry, and was tlie
seat of a university that numbered among its students Theodore de Beza,
Amyot, and Calvin, and the jurisconsult Cujas among its professors. As
many of its inhabitants had embraced tbe Reformation, Bourges suffered
considerably from the religious wars , and it has also been devastated
several times by disastrous conflagrations and pestilence. Louis XI. was
born at Bourges in 1423, and it was also the birthplace of Jacques Coeur
(d. 1456), the celebrated merchant prince (see p. 403), and of Bourdaloue,
the illustrious preacher of the 17th century.

The Avenue de la Gare, crossing the Yevre, leads to the centre
of the town, passing (on the left) near Notre-Dame (PI. B, 2), a church
in the florid Gothic style with a Renaissance tower. The Rue des
Toiles and Rue Mirebeau, forming part of the two circular series of
streets that mark the limits of the old town, contain several quaint
old houses. The short Rue du Commerce leads to the left from the
Place Planchat to the Place Cujas, in which stands the Ecole des
Beaux- Arts (PI. B, 2), a modern building in a classic style. Thence
we follow the Rue Moyenne to the cathedral.

The **Cathedral of St. Etienne (PI. D, 3), the principal build-
ing in the town and one of the finest churches in France, dates from
the 13th, 14th, and 16th centuries.

The *Fa^ade, though deficient in unity, produces an imposing
eifect and is very richly ornamented. It is 180 ft. wide, and has five
portals, lavishly decorated with sculptures, the best of which is the
group of the *Last Judgment in the tympanum over the central
portal. The main portal and those on the right date from the 13th
cent., those on the left from the 16th. In the centre of the facade
is a magnificent rose-window, 30 ft. in diameter. On each side of

Baedeker's Northern France. 3rd Edit. 26

402 Routed?. BOURGES. From Paris

the facade rises a massive tower. The Tour Sourde^ to the S., built
in the 14th cent., unfinished, is 190 ft. high. Tt is flanked by a struc-
ture that spoils the harmony cf the facade. The more interesting N.
tower, or Tour de Beurre, 213 ft. high, was built in the 16th cent.,
partly with money paid for indulgences to eat hutter during Lent,
like the tower of the same name at Rouen (p. 51). The remainder
of the exterior of the church is plain and unpretending. There are no
transepts. The two lateral portals enclose statues preserved from a
still more ancient church, of the ll-12th centuries.

The interior, with double aisles, is not less imposing than the facade.
The building is ^70 ft. long, with a width of 130 ft. The nave is 120ft. high,
and the inner and outer aisles, 68 ft. and 40 ft. respectively. The windows
and the triforium of the nave look somewhat stunted in comparison with the
lofty pillars. The lateral chapels were added in the 15-16th centuries.
Under the choir is a Crypt^ on the level of the fosses in the Roman for-
tifications, used as a burial-place for the archbishops. The live apsidal
chapels are supported by pillars. The "Stained Glass Windows in this
cathedral, dating mainly from the 13th cent., are probably the finest in
France, particularly those in the apse and in the W. facade. Among other
works of art may be mentioned an Adoration of the Shepherds, a picture
by Jean Boucher, a native of Bourges (1563-1633 ; in the second chapel to
the right of the navej •, Peter and John healing the Lame Man, and the
Death of Ananias, copies ot Raphaels cartoons, executed in Gobelins tap-
estry (adjoining chapel); the Choir Screen, a modern work in the style of
the 13th cent.; the statues of Jean, Due de Berry (d. 1416) and his wife
(see also p. 408; in the Lady Chapel): and the statues of the Chancellor
de TAubespine, his wife, and his son (in the Chapel of St. Ursin, the 2nd
beyond the fine door of the sacristy), dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.

To the S. of the cathedral is the Jardin Public^ a fine promenade
adjoining the Archbishop's Palace (PI. D, 4). The latter, which was
founded in the 17th cent., was burnt down in 1871 hut has been
partly rebuilt. The garden contains busts of Bourdaloue (p. 401)
and of Sigaud de Lafond (1730-1810), the natural philosopher, both
natives of Bourges. The streets to the S. lead to the spacious Place
Seraucourt (PI. D, 5), the former 'Mail' or 'Mall', which is 465 yds.
long. At the end are the large Water Works.

At the beginning of the Avenue Se'raucourt, which leads back
to the centre of the town, to the left, is a 12th cent. Portal, origin-
ally belonging to a church, with bas-reliefs representing the mouths
of the year, a hunt, and various fables. — We proceed in a straight
direction to the Rue Jacques-Coeur, passing near the Prefecture (PI.
C, 4; to the left) and the Theatre (PI. B, 3).

A little farther on, in a small square opposite the merchant's
former mansion, is a modern marble statue, by Preault, of Jacques
Coeur, the silversmith of Charles VII.

This wealthy citizen (14ltO?-l 456) lent the King enormous sums of money
to assist in driving the English from Guienne, and obtained so much in-
fluence that he aroused the jealousy of others. His enemies accused him
of poisoning Agnes Sorel (p. 2<'T), of debasing the coinage, etc. A sen-
tence of death pronounced on him Id 1453 was afterwards commuted at
the Pope's intercession to perpetual banishment, and the merchant of
Bourges died as the leader of a naval expedition sent by the Pope against
the Turks.

to Nevers. BOURGES. 57. Route. 403

The *Hou8e of Jacques Cceur (PI. B, 3), now tlie Palais de Jus-
tice, the most interesting edifice in Bourges after the cathedral, was
built in the latter half of the 15th cent, against the Roman Ram-
parts, of which two towers have been preserved, heightened, and
incorporated in the mansion. Above the Gothic porch of the fayade
was a statue of Charles YII., and on each side, sculptured in a false
window, is the head of a servant supposed to be looking out for the
return of his master. Jacques Cceur's coat-of-arms, with hearts and
scallop-shells, is freely used in the decorations, and his motto 'A
vaillans coeurs, riens impossible' also frequently occurs. The build-
ings in the court have preserved their primitiye character better.
The doorways and the three graceful octagonal towers, with the
spiral staircases, are ornamented with bas-reliefs and medallions.
The most interesting part is the chapel, on the first floor, above the
entrance (adm. on application to the porter) , with ceiling-paint-
ings of the 16th cent, representing angels bearing scrolls. It is pre-
ceded by a fine ante-room, the old Salle d'Armes, with two carved
chimney-pieces and a groined roof. On the other side of the court
is another hall vaulted in the same way. A heavy structure in the
Renaissance style has been added on the right. — In order to see
the back of the building, with the two Roman towers, we cross the
court and descend through the public passage to the Place Berry, on
the site of the former garden.

The Church of St. Pierre-le-GulUard (Pi. B, 4), a little on this
side of the Place Berry, has a handsome Gothic interior of the 12-
15th cent., and stilted arches in the choir.

The Museum (PI. A, 3), Rue des Arenes 6, has been installed in
the fovmQT Hotel Cuj as, a Renaissance building restored and added to.
It is open to the public on Sun., from 1 to 4, and to strangers on
other days also.

In the CouET ia a Statue of Louis XI., by Baffler.

Ground-Floor. — Room /, to the left at the end of the court. Re-
naissance chimney-piece, with remains of painting; interesting ceiling;
sculptures from the cathedral; old portraits of Jacques Cceur and his
wife; statue of a bishop; model of the old Ste. Chapelle of Bourges; ivory
carvings; eleven alabaster statuettes from the tomb of Jean, Uuc de Berry
(p. 402). — jR. //. Antiquities; ancient portraits ; relief of Jacques Coeur's
ship; antique statue of Fortune. — Gahinet at the end: Painted panels from
an old church. — Arcade between the court and the garden: Architectonic
fragments; marble figure (Odalisque), by Jacquoi. — Next Room: Anti-
quities; wings of a triptych by /. Boucher, of Bourges (17th cent.), repre-
senting the painter and his mother; Adoration of the Magi, and other
paintings by the same. — Next Oallerij. Antique. Merovingian, and mediseval
sculptures; sculptures of the 16-17th centuries. Sower of tares, by J.Valette
(of Bourges). — Glass-Court. Modern paintings and sculptures. — In the
Entresol is a collection of weapons, to which a collection of pottery is to
be added. — First Floor. — Room I. To the left, ancient portrait of
Cujas; ancient religious paintings ; pottery, weapons; enamels; old cabi-
nets, including one of ebony; wood-carvings ; in the centre, fine table and
desk. — R. //.Continuation of the fine collection of old furniture; various
works of art; clocks, mirrors, statuettes, paintings. — RR. Ill Sl IV con-
tain furniture, paintings, and miscellaneous objects. — Second Floor.

26*

404 Route 57. NEVERS. From Paris

Natural History Collection. Portraits of Napoleon 1., Charles X., and
Louis-Philippe. Sculptures and naedallions.

We return to the Place Planchat, and follow, to the left, the
Rue St. Sulpice, No. 17 in which is the interesting House of the
Beine Blanche. — No. 15 in the Rue de Paradis (PI. B,C, 2), which
begins at the Place Cujas, is the old Hotel de Ville (15th cent.);
fine tower in the court. This street ends in another, No. 5 in which
is the Hotel Lallement^ a fine Renaissance building, the most inter-
esting part of which is the court. It is now used by several learned
societies, but is open to visitors on application to the concierge.

Farther to the N. is the church of St. Bonnet (PL D, 2), rebuilt
in the 16th century. It contains an unimportant painting by Jean
Boucher (in the 3rd chapel to the left), representing the Education
of the Virgin, the centre panel of a triptych of which the wings are
in the Museum (p. 403). — The Boulevard de la Re'publique leads
from the Place St. Bonnet to the station.

The Arsenal., Foundry, and other military establishments of
Bourges lie outside the town, about 1/4 M. to the E. of the cathedral,
and are reached by the Rue de Strasbourg. The public, however, are
not admitted. Still farther on, to the right, are extensive barracks.

A Branch-Railway runs from Bourges to (21 M.) Dun-sur-Auron or
Dun-le-Roi (Hotel Jlargot), an ancient town with 4123 inhab., and several
interesting old buildings.

Railway to Monthigon, see Baedeker's South- Western France. Railway
to Beaune-la-Rolande, see p. 399; to Cosne via /Sancerr«, see p. 397.

For some distance beyond Bourges the railway to Nevers con-
tinues to ascend the valley of the Yevre. Between (150 M.) Mou-
lins-sur-Ytvre and (154 M.) Savigny-en-Septaine the line crosses
the Yevre three times. At (157 M.) Avor are a camp for military
manoeuvres and a school for non-commissioned officers. 162Y.2 M.
Bengy; 166 V2 M. Nerondes, a small town with 2300 inhabitants.
The line now threads a tunnel and crosses the Aubois and the Canal
du Berry before reaching (174 M.) La Guerche, a small town with
3450 inhab., situated on the Aubois. In the vicinity are blast-fur-
naces and a quarry of lithographic stone.

From La Guerche lines run to (031/2 M.) St. Amand and to (43>/2 M.)
Villefranche-d' AUier., diverging from each other at O'/z M.) Sancoins.

At (179 M.) Le Ouetin the railway crosses the AUier, about
2 M. to the S. of the point where the Canal du Berry crosses that
river by a magnificent Aqueduct, 1650 ft. long.

18.0 V2 M. Saincaize, 6 M. to the S. of Nevers, is also a station on
the Bourbonnais railway. Our line now passes through a tunnel,
turns to the N., and crosses the Canal Lateral (p. 397) and the
Loire. Fine view of Nevers to the right.

187 M. Nevers. — Hotels. *H6tkl de la Paix (PI. a; A, 2), at the
station, R. from 2, dej. 3, D. SVa fr. ; de France (PI. b; C, 1), at the
Porte de Paris, at the other end of the town, somewhat expensive; dk
l'Eukope (PI. C5 C, 2), Rue du Commerce 94, also remote and expensive:
i>u Commerce, Kue des Boucheries 9, D. 3 fr. — Cafes. Grund-Cafi, with

[-;/(/'■■

- /

^iM>

„.ail

7/

\\<i'^ SUIIIIOK

io Nevers. NEVERS. 57. Route. 405

garden, Rue du Commerce 55; Bmidiot, Place dvi Lyce'e. — Cabs. Per drive
60 c, per hr. 2 fr.

Nevers, formerly capital of the Nivernais and now the chief place
in the Departement de la Nievre, with 27,100 inhab., is situated on
a hill at the confluence of the Loire and the Nievre.

The town, the ancient capital of the ^dui, is of Celtic origin and
was called Noviodunum by the Romans. Caesar established a large camp
here, which was seized by the Gauls, after the siege of Gergovia where
Caesar had been defeated by Vercingctorix. On account of the loss of the
provisions stored in the town, Csesar^s army was in great danger of starv-
ation, but notwithstanding the immense difficulty of the undertaking he
forded the Loire and reached a district where food could be obtained.
Csesar was now joined by Labienus, and this temporary defeat was followed
^QpJf. ^^^* supreme struggle, of which Vercingetorix was the hero (see
p. dbo).

The Avenue de la Gare (PI. A, 2), from which we see the Porte
du Croux (p. 407) and the cathedral (see below) to the right, leads
to the Place de la Halle (PI. B, 2), to the left of which extends a fine
Park. The street to the right of the Place leads to the centre of the
town.

The *Palais de Justice (PI. B, 2), to the left, is the ancient
ducal Chateau, originally the chateau of the Counts of Nivernais,
the fief of which was erected by Francis I. into a duchy in favour
of Frani^ois de Cleves, one of his generals. It passed by marriage in
1562 to the Gonzaga family and was afterwards sold to Card. Ma-
zarin, in whose family it remained until the Revolution. The back
of the building still recalls the feudal castle, whereas the present
facade is a graceful construction of the 16th century. , At each
end are an octagonal turret and a round tower, and in the centre is
another very graceful turret decorated with- bas-reliefs by Jean Gou-
jon, restored by Jouffroy. They represent the legend of the Knight
of the Swan, the fabulous founder of the Cleves family. The upper
rooms contain a small Museum, comprising an interesting collection
of Nevers faience of the 16-18th cent., antiquities, medieval works
of art, etc. (adm. Sun., 1-3).

In front of the Palais de Justice extends the Place de la Repub^
lique (PI. B, 2, 3), from the end of which we obtain a fine view of
the valley of the Loire. The Place contains a fountain embellished
with a statue representing the town of Nevers. — In an adjoinino-
square are busts of Adam Billault (d. 1662) , the carpenter-poet°
and Claude Tillier, the pamphleteer, two local worthies. The large
16th cent. Gateway in the Rue de I'Oratoire (PI. C, 3) dates from
the ducal prison.

To the E. of the Palais de Justice stands the Theatre, to the W.
the Hotel de Ville, with a library and a Muse'e (open daily, 12-3).
Nearly opposite the Hotel de Yille stands the Cathedral of
St. Cyr(Pl.B, 2), dating from the 13 -15th cent, and occupying
the site of a stiU more ancient church, the W. end of which remains.
The thorough restoration of the building is now approaching com-
pletion. It is one of the only two double-apse cathedrals in France

406 Route 57. NEVERS.

(comp. p. 350), The E. apse, with the choir, is in the Gothic
style; the W. apse has been transformed into a chapel, the external
ornaments of which are very fine. The transept is near the W. apse.
We enter the church by the N. Portal, dating from the 12th cent, or
by the S. Portal, dating from the end of the 15th cent, and flanked
by an elaborate Toiver (15-16th cent.), ornamented with statues
of prophets, apostles, and saints. The columns of the handsome
Triforium are supported by small Caryatides , and in the inter-
vening arches are small figures of angels. Each arm of the transept
has a double Romanesque arch under the Gothic arch that opens
into the nave. In the N. arm are a fine doorway and a staircase of
the 16th cent., leading to the chapter-house (14-15th cent.). There
is a crypt below the W. apsidal chapel. The lateral chapels (15th
cent.) contain several altar-pieces, all of which are much mutilated
except the one in the chapel of John the Baptist, to the left of the
choir. This, of the early 16th cent., depicts the life of St. John in
a series of animated scenes. Behind the modern Gothic canopied
altar in the choir is a large wooden crucifix of the 13th century.

Behind the Palais de Justice, in a court to the left, at the be-
ginning of the Rue St. Martin (No. 36), is the Chapelle de la Visita-
tion (PL B, 2), possessing a fine fa(;ade of the 18th century. It was
formerly connected with the monastery celebrated by Gresset in
his 'Vert-Vert'. The Rue St. Martin ends at the Rue du Commerce,
the principal street in Nevers, where we turn to the left, nearly
opposite a Belfry (PI. C, 2) of the 15th century. Farther on we cross
the Place Guy-Coquille and turn to the left into the Rue St.Etienne.

The church of St. Etienne (PI. D, 2), which we next enter
from a court to the right (beyond No. 29), an ancient abbey-church
of the Uth cent., is the most interesting ecclesiastical building in
Nevers from an archaeologist's point of view. The fa(:ade, which has
been left unrestored, is extremely simple, but the interior is a fine
structure in the Romanesque style prevalent in Auvergne, which
extended to the Nivernais. Visitors should go outside the church by
the small lateral door in the transept to the left, so as to obtain a
view of the exterior of the nave and the apse. Above and round
the arches of the windows is a very elTective band of sculpture; the
roof rests on mocUllions of varied devices. The right wall of the
transept, pierced by five small semicircular windows and one round
window, has pointed and semicircular arches alternately; the apse
is surrounded bv three radiating chapels, and round its upper part
runs a kind of gallery with small columns. The nave is roofed with
barrel-vaulting; the aisles have groined vaulting and are surmounted
by galleries. The crossing of the nave and transepts is surmounted
by a dome. In the middle of each transept is a large arch, sur-
mounted bv five smaller arches, beyond which are chapels, instead
of portals; 'on the E. side of the transepts are small recesses. The
choir, with its slender columns, lofty arches, and a fine triforium, is

NEVERS. 57. Route. 407

more tasteful than the nave. The chapels, with semi-domical vault-
ing, have arches alternating with windows.

Near St. Etienne is the Lyceum (PI, D, 2), an old Jesuit college,
with which was formerly connected the church ofSt.Pere or St. Pierre
(PI. C, D, 2), on its other side, at the corner of the Rue de la Pre'-
fecture and the Rue des Ardilliers. The church dates from the
17th cent., and contains ceiling-paintings by Batiste and Ghe'rardin.

At the end of the Rue des Ardilliers, where the town proper
ends, is the Porte de Paris (PI. C, 2), a plain triumphal arch erected
in commemoration of the victory of Fontenoy (1745), with a poor
rhymed inscription by Voltaire.

The Rue des Ardilliers leads back to the Rue du Commerce,
which ends near the confluence of the Loire and the Nievre, where
there is an Embankment to protect the lower parts of the town from
inundation. Farther on is a handsome stone Bridge (PI. B, 3),
beyond which is the bridge of the Bourbonnais railway. Near the
latter is a large Manufactory of Porcelain and Faience (PI. A, 3),
one of the chief industries of Nevers.

The Porte du Croux (PI. A, 2), already mentioned at p. 405, is
an interesting relic of the fortifications of the end of the 14th cent-
ury. It is square in shape, with watch-towers and machicolations,
and is preceded by a barbican. It contains a Lapidary Museum^
comprising Gallo-Roman and mediasval sculptures, a flue mosaic,
Inscriptions, and other objects. It is open at 3 p.m. on the 1st and
3rd Sun. of each month ^ but visitors are admitted at other times on
application to the keeper. Rue du 14 Juillet45. Adjoining the gate
is a Manufactory of Faience (Montagnon).

The Tour Goguin (PL A, 3), partly of the 11th cent., on the quay
helow the stone bridge, and the Tour St. Eloi (PI. C, 3), of the 15th cent.,
above, on the right bank, are also relies of the ancient fortifications.

The Park (PI. B, 1-2) offers a pleasant, well-shaded promenade,
with occasional concerts. Beyond it, to the right, is the extensive
Convent of St. Oildard fPl. B, 1), mother-house of the 'Soeurs de
Nevers', who devote themselves to education.

From Nevers to Auxerre, see p. 383; to Dijon (Macon) via Le Creusot or
via Autun, see R. 56; to Lyon, Vichy., etc., see Baedeker''s South-Eastern and
South -Western France.

INDEX.

Abancourt 36. 31.
Abbeville 12.
Abeele 18.
Ablon 263.
Acheres 45.
AcMet 21.
Acquigny 59.
Adinkerke $6.
Afrique, Mont 366.
Agets-St-Brice, Les 234.
Agimont- Village 111.
Agincourt 23.
Agon 180.
Ai 117.

Aignay-le-Duc 368.
Aillevillers c'lT.
Ailly (lighthouse) 41.

— sur-Noye 24.

— sur-Somme 15.
Airaines 15.
Aire-sur-la-Lys 17.
Aisey 312.

Aisy 365.

Aix-en-Othe-Vill. 36i.
Albert 22. 72.
Alencon 191.
Aleth 225.
Alise-Ste-Reine 365.
Allarmoiit 328.
Allerey 376. 378.
Almeneches 185.
Alsace, Ballon cV 344.
Alspach 333.
Altenbach 342.
Altkirch 322.
Alt-Miinsterol 322.
Amagne-Lucquy 127. 100.
Amanvillers 126.
Ambleteuse 6.
Amboise 266.
Ambrieres 193.
Amiens 25. 97.
Ammerschweier 333.
Ancenis 233.
Ancerville-Gud 308.
Anchamps 112.
Ancre, the 22.
Ancy-le-Franc 365.

— sur-Moselle 123.
Andelot (Hte. Marne) 310.

— en-Montagne 378.

Andelys, Les 42.
Andilly 303. 314.
Andlau 327.
Andres 22.
Anet (chat.) 59.
Anetz 233.
Angers 238.
Angerville (chat.) 399.
Anglure 295.
Angoville-sur-Ay 179.
Angrie-Loire 235.
Aniche 78.

Anizy-Pinon 104. 108.
Anjou 238.
Anneville 67.
Anor HI. 100. 107.
Anould 332.
Anseremme 113.
Antifer, Cap 71.
Antoing 87.
Antrain 208.
Anvin 23. 11.
Anzin 78.
Apremont 127.
Arbois 357.

Arc-et-Senans 356. 378.
Arches 333.
Arcier 347.
Arcis-sur-Aube 300.
Arcy-sur-Cure 383.
Ardenne8,the HI. 128.131
Ardres 23. 15.
Argent 399.
Argentan 185.
Argenteuil 44.
Argentre 208.
Argonne (forest) 124.
Arleuf 394.
Arlon 132.
Armentieres 99. 18.
Arnage 204.
Arnav-le-Duc 366.
Arnex-Orbe 380.
Arpajon 267.
Arques (Pas-de-Cal.) 10.

17.
— (Seioe-Infe'rieure) 45.
Arras 19.

Arree, Montagnea d' 217,
Arromanches 161.
Arrou 198.

Ars-sur-Moselle 123.
Arsonval-Jaucourt 300.
Artois 19.
Arzembouy 382.
Arzon 255.
Arzweiler 326.
Ascq 87. 97.
Asnelles 161. 178.
Asnieres 45.
A.snoi3 386.
Athis-Mons 263.
Athus 132.
Attaques, Les 15.
Attigny 127.
Aubenton 100.
Aubers'illiers-la-Cour-

neuve 115.
Aubigne 204.
Aubigny-au-Bac 74.
Aubrais, Les 264.
Aubrives 113.
Audierne 261.
Audresselles 6.
Audrieu 159.
Audruicq 15.
Audun-le-Roman 133.
Auge (Vallee d') 158.
Aulnay-les-Bondy 115.

136.
Aulnois-Bulgneville 311.
Aulnoye 107. 100.
Ault 37.
Aumale 36.
Aunay 386.
Auneau 267.
Auray 256.
Autet 317.
Autun 391.
Auvernier 379.
Auvours (plateau) 200.
Auxerre 380.

St-Amatre 397.
Auxi-le-Chateau 13.
Auxon 300.

Dessus 348.
Auxonne 377.
Avail on 383.
Avenay 117.
Avesnelles 100.
Avesnes 100.
Avesaac 212.

INDEX.

409

Avioth 132.
Avize 139.
Avor 404.
Avoudrey 354.
Avranches 180.
Avricourt 325.
Avron (plateau) 18G.
Ay 117.

Azay-le-Rideau 284.
Azerailles 327.
Azincourt 23.

Baccarat 327.
Badonviller 328.
Bagenelles, Col des 331.
Bagneux (dolmen) 237.
liagnoles-de-rOrne 186.
Bailleul 99.
Baiu-de-Bretagiic 234.
Bains-les-Bains 317.
Baisieux 97.
Balagny-St-Epin 32.
Balance, La 318.
Balinghera 22.
Ballan 284.
Ballancourt 398.
Ballon, Ferme du344.
Ban de la Roche 330.
— , Foret du 341.
Banc-Valois 22.
Bannalec 260.
Bapaume 21.
Barb a 331.
Barberey 295.
Barentin 65.

— Ville 65.
Barfleur 182.
Barisey-la-C6te 310.
Bar-le-Duc 143.
Barlin (farm) 333.
Barr 326.
Bar-sur-Aube 300.

— sur-Seine 367.
Bas-Evette 305. 345.
Basse Bretagnc 215.

— de rOurs, La 334.

— des Rupts 335.
Basse'e, La 97.
Basse-Indre 253.
Batilly 126.
Bat/, 253.

— , lie de 217.
Baud 215.
Bauge 232.
Baule, La 253.
Baume-les-Dames 347.

— les-Messieurs 357.
Bauvin-Proviii 18.
Bavay 82. 74.
Baville, Buttes de 267.
Bayard, Roche a 114.
Bay el 300.

Baveux 159.

Bayon 310.
Bazancourt 127.
Bazeilles 130. 132.
Bazocbes 115. 117.
Beard 390.
Beauce, La 264.
Beauchamps 399.
Beaucourt-Hamel 22.
Beaufort 358.
Beaugency 265.
Beaujardin (chat.) 267.
Beaujeux-Prantigny 317
Beaulicu 287.
Beaumont (Ardennes) 131

— (Seine-ct-Oise) 32.

— en-Gatinais 399.

— le-Roger 157.

— sur-Sarthe 192.
Beaune 388.

— la-Rolande 399. 264.
Beauport (abbey) 214.
Beauraing 113.
Beauregard (chat.) 278.
Beauvais 33. 25.
Bcauze'e 144.
Bec-Hellouin, Le 156.
Beg-Meil 260.
Belchen, the Grossc 342.
— , the Kleine 340.
Belfort 305.

— , Trouee de 3u6.
Belin, Mont 356.
Bellefontaine 152.
Bellegarde-Q.uiers 274.

399.
Belle-Ile-en-Mer 257.

— Isle-Begard 216.
Bellevue 181.

— (chat.) 129.
Belliere, La (chat.) 232.
Bellignies 82.
Benerville 175.
Be'nestroir 135. 325.
Bengy 404,
Bennweier 323.
Benodet 261.
Benouville 176. 177.
Bensdorf 135. 325.
Berck 11.

Bere 234.
Bergues 83.
Berguette 18. 99.
Berjou-Cahan 192.
Berlaimont 100. 106.
Bernay 157.
Bernerie, La 252.
Berneval 41.
Bernieres 178.
Berry 401.
Bcrs, Lac de 341.
Berteaucourt - les - Dames

15.
Berthelmingen 135.

Bertrichamps 32S.
Berzy 116.
Besancon 348.
Besle 212.

Besne-Pont-Chateau 234.
Besse-sur-Braye 198.
Be'theny 98.
Bethune 18. 97.
— , the 45.
Bettembourg 133.
Betton 222.
Beurey (farm) 345.
Beuvragea 86.
Beuvray, the 394.
Beuvron 158.
— , the 382. 3S6. 400.
Bcuzec-Conq 260.
Beuzeval-Houlgatc 175.
Beuzeville 64.
Beze 376.
Biazot 335.
Binic 214.
Binson 138.
Bitschweiler 342.
Bizy (forest) 43.
Blain 234.
Blainville 177.

— la- Grande 324.
Blaisy-Bas 366.
Blanc, Lac 338.
Blanchemer, Lac dc 338.
Blanchetaque 11.
Blanc-Misseron 82. 87.
Blandain 97.
Blangy-Glisy 97.

— sur-Bresle 36.

— sur-Ternoise 11.
Blanzy 389.
Bleharies 87.
Ble'neau 396.
Blenod-les-Toul 310.
Blere-Lacroix 283.
Blesme-Haussign. 143.
Blois 275. 265.
Blonville 175.
Bodilis 218.

Bognv 112.
Bohain 106.
Boh.-.n 112.

Bois-du-Roi, Pic du 394.
Boisgeol (chalet) 345.
Bois-le-Roi 360. ^
Boisleux 21.
Boisset 155.
Boissiere-le-L)e'luge 32.
Bolbec 64.
Bole, La 253.
BoUweiler 323.
Bologne 308. 310.
Bonaparte (chalet) 345.
Bonaventure (chat.) 278.
Bondy 136.
Bonhomme, Le 332.

410

INDEX.

Bjnhorame, Col du 332.'
Bonnemain 222.
Bonneval 267.
— , Valley of 316.
Bonneville, La 156.

— (chat.) 173.
Bonnieres 43.
Bonport (abbey) 42.
Bon-Secours CN'ord) 78.
Bonsecours (Rouen) 58.
Bordeaux-Benouville 69.
Bordes, Les 274. 399.
Borny 135,

Bouaye 252.
Bouchet, Le 398.
Bouille, La 58. 59.
Bouillon 131.
Bouilly 300.
Boujeailles 378.
Boulogne-sur-Mer 6.
Boulzicourt 128.
Bouquemaison 24.
Bourbon-Lancy 387.
Bourbonne-les-Bains304.
Bourbourg 6.
Boure 287.
Bourg 35S.

— Bruche 330.

— d'Ault 37.

— de-Bat /. 253.
Bo urges 401.
Bourget-Drancv, Le 115.
Bourg-le-Roi 192.
Bourgneuf 252.
Bourgogne, Canal de 361.

369. 377.
Bourgtheroulde 157.
BourHmont (chat.) 309.
Bourogne 307.
Bourron 395.
Boursault (chat.) 139.
Bourse, La 253.
Bourth 184.
Boussac, La 227.
Bouvigne (Belgium) 114.
Bouvines 87.
Boveresse 379.
Boves 24. 103.
Bracieux 279.
Braisne 117.

Bramont,Colde339. 343.
Brande, Foret de la 336.
Braux-Levrezy 112.
Bray, Valle'e de 46. 35.

— Ecos 43.
Breaute-Beuzeville 64.
Breche - d'Hermanvillc,

La 177.
Br^hat (island) 216.
Brenet,s Les 355.
— , Lac des 355.
Bresle, La 36. 37.
Brosle.'' 25.

Bresse, La 343. 335.
Bressoir, the 332.
Brest 219.
Bretagae, the 212.
Breteuil (Eure) 156.

— (Oise) 24.
Bretigny 263.
Bretoncelles 199.
Bretteville-Norrey 159.
Breuil 278.

— Blangy, Le 172.
Breuillet 267.
Breval 155.
Brezouard, the 332.
Briare 397.

Brias 13. 18.
Bricon 301.
Bricquebec 179.
Hrie, La 292. 359.
Brienne-le-Chateau 142.
Brienon 364.
Briey 126.
Brignogan 218.
Brion-Laisy 395.
Brionne 157.
Briouze 186.
Brittany 212. 208.
Brohiniere, La 213.
Brooua 213.
Brosse. La 399.
Brou 198.
Broye 390.
Bruai 78.

Brulerie (chat.) 396.
Brulon 204.
Bruneval-les-Baius 71,
Brunoy 359.
Briischbiickel 332.
Bruyeres 334.
Bucey-les-Gy 318.
Bucbsweiler 326.
Bueil 59. 155.
Bulat-Pcstivien 215.
Bulgneville 316.
BuUigny-Crezilles 310.
Bully-Grenay 18.
Bares 45.
Burgundy 369.
Burthccourt 152.
Burv (chat.) 278.
Busigny 106.
Bnssang 3il.
— , Col de 342.
Bassiere, Combe de la376
Bussigny 380.
Bussv-Rabutin 366.
Byans 356.

Cabourg 176. 158.
Caen 166. 15S.
Caffiers 6.
Calais 3.

— Fontinettes 6. 22.

Calais-St- Pierre 5. 6.22
Caligny-Cerisy 186. 102
Calix 177.
Callac 215.
Calvados 172.

— (Dep. of) 166.
Cambes 177.
Cambrai 73. 106.
Cambresis 106.
Camembert 158.
Campbon 234.
Canaples 15. 24.
Cancale 227.

Cancaval, Pointe de 229.
Cand^ 235.

Canisy, Mont 175.
Canteleu 58.
Cany 66. 65.
Car.intec 218.
Carentan 161.
Carfantain 222.
Carhaix 217. 215.
Carl gn an 132.
Carnac 257.
Carnelle (forest) 32.
Carpiquet 159.
Carquefou 235.
Carrouges 199.
Carte (chat.) 284.
Carteret 161.
Carvin 18. 86.
Cassel 82.

Cateau, Le 1G6. 111.
Catelet, Le 106.
Catillon 106.
Cats, Mont des 18.
Caubert, Monts de 13.
Caudebec 65.
Caude-Cute 41.
Caudry 71. 106.
Caulnes 213.
Cauville 71.
Caux, Pays de 65.
Cayeux 12.
Celle, La 292.

— en-Morvan, La 394.
Celles 328.

Centre, Canal du 3S9.
Cercottes 264.
Cercy-la-Tour 387. 390.
Cesson, Tour de 214.
Chablis 364.
Chabris-Gievres 288.
Cha-nv 389.
Chailvet-Urcel li8.
Chalifert. Canal de 137.
Chalindrev 303. 314.
Challerange 127.
Chalmaison 294.
Chalons-sur-Marne l;)9.

— (camp) 126.
Chalon-sur-Saone 358.377.
Chamarande 263.

I

INDEX.

411

Chambertin 387.
Chambly 32.
Chambord (chat.) 277.
Chambrelien 355.
Chambrey 152.
Chamont, Col de 333.
Champagne 359.
— , the 295.

— Pouilleuse 300.
Champagney 305.
Champagnole 378.
Champ-du-Feu, Le 327.
Champeaux 207. 188.
Cliampigneul 139.
Champigneulles 146.
Champigny 291.
Champlieu 103.
Champlitte 303.
Ghamprosay 359.
Champtoce 233.
Champtoceaux 231.
Champvans-les-Dole 377.
Changis 137.
Chantenay-sur-L(iire 253.
Chantilly 101.
Chantraines 310.
Chapelle, La ( Vosges) 329.
— , La (Ardennes) 131.

— Anthenaise, La 194.

— d'Anguillon, La 399.

— de-la-Delivrande 177.

— du-Chene, La 233.

— St-Mesrain, La 265.

— St-Nicolas 844.

— sous-Chaux., La 345.

— sur-Crccy 137.

— Vendomoise, La 278.
Charbonniers,Coldes341.
Charenton 359.
Charite, La 398.
Charlemont 113.
Charleroi 108.
(harleville 128-
Gharmes 310.

Chars 47,
Chartre, La 198.
(Jhartrelles 359.
Chartres 195. 59.
Chassey (camp) 389.
Chastellux 385.
Chateaubriant 234.
Chateau-Chinon 387.

— du-Loir 198. 204,
Chateaudun 267.
Chateau-Gontier 234.

— Landon 395.

— la-Valliere 198.
Chateanlin 262. 221.
Chateauneuf (Brit.) 230.

— sur-Loire 274.
Chateau-Regnault 112.

— Renard 396.
Chateaurenault 270.

Chateauroux 288,
Chateau-Salins 1.52.

— Thierry 138.
Chatelaudren 215.
Chatel-Censoir 382.
Chatelier, Le 230.
Chafillon-en-Bazois 3S7.

— en-Vendelais 207.

— sur-Indre 288.

— sur-Marne 138.

— sur-Saone 304.

— sur-Seine 367.
Chaudenay 314.
Chaiideney - sur - Mo.'^elle

146.
(haulaea 72. 97.
Chaumes, Ilautes 333.
Cliaumont (Hte. Marne)

301.

— (chat.) 265.

— en-Vexin 47.
(hauny 104.
Chausey, lies 188.
Chaussade, La 383.
Chausse'e-St-Victor. La

278.
Chauasin 378.
Chauvency 132.
Chaux (forest) 378.

— de-Fonda, La 355.
Chaze-sur-Aigos 235.
Chazeu (chat.) 395.
Ch^cy-Mardie 274.
Chelles 136.
Chemaze 234.
Chene-Vert 230.
Chenonceaux 283.
Cheppe, La 124.
Cherbourg 162.
Chesnay (chat.) 43.
Cheverny 278.
(.^hevillon 308.
Chevilly 264.
Chevremont 322.
Chimav 111.
Chinoii 284.
Choisy-le-Roi 263.
Cholet 233. 244.
Chouzy 265.
Chuignolles 72.
Cinq-Mars 235.
Cii-es-les-Mello 32.
Cirey 325.

— (chat.) 308.
Ciry-Ie-Noble 389.

— Sermoise 117.
Citeaux (abbey) 388.
Citers-Quers 322.
Clacy-Mons 108.
Clairvaux 300.
Clamecy 382.
Clecy 192.
Clerai,(chat.) 185.

Cleres 41. 65.
Clermont-de-rOi.se 24.

— en-Argonne 124. 127.
Clerval 347.

Cle'ry 265.

Clichy 45.

Climont, the 330.

Clion 288.

-, Le 252.

Cloth of Gold, Field of

the 22.
Cloyes 268.
Cluse, La 379.
Goadut 215.
Cootfrec (chat.) 216.
Coiffy-le-I-Iaut 304.
Colit^ny 358.
Collet, Le 336.
Collonges 377.
Colmar 323.
Colombey-Noailly 135.
Colombier 305.

— Fontaine 347.
Combcurg 222.
Combrit-Tre'me'oc 261.
Comines 97.

Commelle, Etangs de 101.
Commer 194.
Commercy 144.
Compiegne 102.
Concarneau 260.
Conches 157.
Conchil-le-Temple 11.
Conde'-Gouville 156.

— sur-Huisne 199.

— sur-FEscaut 78.

— sur-Noireau 192.
Conflans-Fin-dOise 48.

— Jarny 126. 133.

— St-Honorine 44.

— Varigney 317.
Coninnais (chat.) 232.
Conlie 204.
Connerre-Beille 199.
Conquet, Le 221.
Cons-la-Granville 132.
Contrexeville 316.
Conty 25.

Convers, Lea 355.
Coolua 142. 300.
Corbeaux, Lac des 339.
Corbehem 74.
Corbeil 398. 359.
Corbenay 317. 321.
Corbie 22.
Corbigny 386.
Corcelles 355.

— les-Monts 376.
Cordier (chat.) 175.
Corlay 214.

Cormeilles-enParisis 44.
Cormery 285.
Cormicy 122.

412

INDEX.

Coniimout 343.
Corny 123.
Corre 312.
Corseul 181.
Corvol-d''Ein'bernavd 382.

— I'Orgeuilleux 382.
Cosne 397.
Co3se-le-Vivien 206.
Cossonay 380.
Cote-d'Or, La 387.
Cotentin, the 161.
Coucy-le-Chateau 104.
Coudekerque 6.
Coueron 253.
Coulanges-s.-Yonne 382.
Couliboeuf 189.
Cnullons 396
Coulmiers 274.
Coulogne 22.
Coulombs 184.
Coulommiers 292.
Cour Cheverny 218.
Courrieres 18.
Courseulles 178.
Courtalain - St - Pellerin

198. 199.
Courtemaiche 307.
Courtenay 396.
Courtrai 88.
Courville 199.
Cousance 358.
Cousolre 107.
Coussey 310.
Coutainville 180.
Coutances 179.
Couterne 199. 186.
Couvet 379.
Couville 162.
Couvrechef 177.
Craiiivillers 316.
Cramoisy 32.
Graon 206.
Cravaiuhc 307. *
Cravant 382.
Crdcy-en-Brie 137.

— en-Ponthieu 13.
Creil 101. 25.
Crc'ney 300.
Cropy-en-Valois 115.
Cressia 358.
Creully 178.
Creuse-Goutte, La 335.
Creusot, Le 390.
Crevectt'ur 25.

— (Belgium) 114.
Crevenev-Saulx 30J.
Criol 4i:
Criqueboeuf 173.
Criquetot-lEsneval 64.
Crisso 204.

Croisic, Le 253.
Croix-Wa^quehal 88.
Cronat 387.

Croth-Sorel 59.
Crotov, Le 12.
Crouy 108.

Croy-Romainmotier 380.
Crozon 221. 262.
Crucuno 257.
Cuesmes 107.
Cuiseaux 358.
Culmont-Chalindrev 303.
Cunault 237.
Cuperlv 124.
Curel 308.
Curgies 82.
Custines 123.
Cysoing 87.

Dabo. or
Da-?bourg 326.
Daigny 130.
Dambach 326.
Damblain 316.
Damery-Boursault 139.
Dammartin 115.
Dammerkirch 322.
Damville 156.
Dangu 43.
Daoulas 262.
Daours 22.
Darcev 366.
Daren-See, the 338.
Darne'tal 31.
Darnev 312.
Darnieulles 312.
Deauville 174.
Decize 390.
Delle 307. 346.
Demangc-aux-Eau\ 309.
Denain 78.

Dercy-Mortiers 98. 111.
Desvres 10.

Deutsch-Avricourt 325.
Devant-les-Ponts 13 i.
Devecey 348.
Deville 112.
Diable, Eoche du 330.
Diedenhofen 133.
Diedolshausen 332.
Diekirch J33.
Dienville 143.
Dieppe 38.
Dieulouard 123.
Dieuze 325.
Dities-Pourrain 397.
Digoin 390.
Dijon 368.
— Porte-Keuve 315.
Din an 230. 181.
Dinanl (Belgium) 114.
Dinard 226.
Dinozo 333.
Uirinon 262.
Dirol 386.
Dives-Cabiniri;; 176.

Docelles-Chenimenil 333.
Doissche 111.
Dol 222. 181.

— ar - Marc^hadouiren
258.

Dole 377.

Dolent, Champ 222.

Dombasle - sur - MeurtLe

324.
Domblans-Voiteur 357.
Domfront (Orne) 193.

— (Sarthe) 204.
Dommartin-lcs-Remire-

mont 343.
Domont 32.
Domremy 309.
Doncherv 129.
Donges 252.
Donnerv 274.
Donon,'tbe 328. 330.
Don-Sainghin 18. 97.
Donzv 397
Dornach 322. 342.
Dornaus 138.
Douai 74.

Douarnenez 261. 221.
Doubs, the 346. 3i7. 354.

376. etc.
Douchv 396.

Doulevant-le-Chat. 308.
Doullen,^ 24
Doulon 235.
Dounoux 317.
Dour 74.
Dourdan 267.
Doutrc, La 238.
Douvres-la-Dol. 177.
Dozule-Putot 158.
Dracv-St-Loup 386. 391.
Dravcil-Vigneux 359.
Drei /Ehrcn 350.
Dreistein 327.
Dreuil 15.
Dreux 182. 59.
Drumont, the 342.
Druve 284.
Druyes 396.
Duche.^^se, Fontaine do la

338.
Duclair 65. 58.
Dunkerque, or
Dunkirk 83. 6.
Dun-Doulcon 131.

— lo-Roi 404.

— les-Places 386.

— sui'-Auron 404.
Duplesseys (chat.) 39i.
Durtal 24 J.

Eauliie, the 41.
Eihauflour 157.
Eclaron 307.
Eduse-Carroc, L" 22.

INDEX.

413

Ecus 43.
Ecouche 185.
Ecouen-Ezanville 32.
Ecouflant 233.
Ecouis 47.
Ecouviez 132.
Ecury (chat.) 139.
Egisheim 323.
Eichhofen 326.
Elbeuf 59. 42. 157.
Elven 254.

Engelburg (chat.) 342.
Entrains 397.
Envermeu 41.
Epehy 72.
Epernay 139.
Epernon 195.
Epfig 326.
Epinac 391.
Epinal 312.
Epinav (Seine) 32.

— sur-Orge 263.
Epine, V 141.
Epoisses 384.
Epune-Me'zieres 44.
Eprave 114.
Eragny (Oise) 46.

— iS'euville 48.
Erce-en-Lainee 234.
Erdeven, Lines of 257.
ErmenonA'ille 115.
Ernecourt-Loxeville 144,
Ernee 194.
Erquelines 107.
Erquy 213.

Erschlitt 340.
Esbly 137.
Escarpelle, L' 78.
Eschamps 386.
Eschbach 340.
Eschelmer 333.
Escoublac-la-Baule 253.
Esneval (chat.) 65.
Essarts-le-Roi, Les 194.
Esse 212.
Essonnes 398.
Esternav 138. 292.
Estrees-St-Denis 103.
Esvres 285.
Etain 126.
Etalans 354.
Etampes 264.
Etang 390.
Etaples 11,
Eth (chat.) 82.
Etival 328.
Etoile (camp) 15.
Etrepagny 47.
Etretat 70.
Ettelbruck 133.
Eu 36.

Eurville 308.
Evreuil, 1/ 330.

Evreux 15").
Evron 204.

Evry-Petit-Bourg 359.
Ezy-Anet 59.

Faing, Gazon de 338.
Falaise 189.
Faloise, La 24.
Famars 99.
Famechon 31.
Fampoux 74.
Faouet, Le 260.
Farbus-Vimy IS.
Faucilles, Monts 312.
Faunoux .331.
Fauquembergue 23.
Favernev 317.
Favicres 310.
Fav-aux-Loges 274.
Faymont 321.
Fecamp 67.
Feignes - sous - Vologne,

Col des 33S.
Feignies 107.
Fellering 343. 342.
Fentsch 133.
Fere, La 98.

— Chanipenoisc , I-a
292. 139.

— en-Tardenois 115.
Ferriere, La 234.

— la-Grande 107.
Ferrieres-en-Biie 292.

— Fontenav 395.
Ferte-Alaia, La 398, 399

— Beauharnai,s, liU 279

— Bernard, La 199.

— Gaucher. La 292.

— Mace, La 186.

— Milon, La 114.

— St-Aubin, La 400.

— sous-Jouarre, La 137.

— Vidame-Lamblore, La
184.

Finistere, Le 219.
Fischbodle, the 338.
Fismes 115.
Fixin 376.

Flamboin-Gouaix 294.
Flavignv 366.

— le-Grand 111.
Flavy-le-Martel 98.
Fleche, La 232.
Flers 186. 192.
Flesselles 24.
Fleurier 379.
Fleurines 102.
Fieville 315.
Flez-Cusy-Taunay 386
Floing 130.

Flotte, La (chat.) 198.
Foecy 400.
Folembrav 104.

Folgoet, Le 218.
Folie, La 139.
Folleville 24.
Folligny 180. 18T.
Fondettes-St-Cyr 204.

270.
Fontainebleau 360.
Fontaine-Bouillon 87.

— Francaise 376.

— le-Port 359.

— les-Luxeuil 321.

— St)ings 278.
Fontanel 396.
Fontenay (Yonne) 396.
r^ontenoy-s. -Moselle 146.

— (Yonne) 396.
Fontette 384.
Fontevrault 237.
Fontinettes. Ascenseur

des 17.
Fontoy 133.
Forellenweiher 338.
Forest-rAbbaye 11. 13.
Forges, Les 233.

— les-Eaux 46.
Formerie 31.
Fort Mahon 11.
Fosse-Marolles 278.
Foucheres-Vaux 367.
Foudav 330.

Foug 145.
Fougeres 207.
Fougerolles 317.
Foulain 302.
Fouquereuil 13. 18.
Fourchambault 398.
Fourbanne 347.
Fourmies 100. 107.
Fours 390.
Fraisans 347.
Fraize 332.
Frambourg 380.
Frameries 107.
Franche-Comte 348.
Franconville (ch:lt.) 32.
Frankenburg (chat.) 331.
Franois 347.
Frebecourt 309.
Freland 333.
Frenelle-la-Grande 310.
Frenois 129.
Frenouville-Cagny 158.
Frescati (chat.) 135.
Fresnais, La 222.
Fresnay-sur-Sarthe 204.
Fresne-la-Mere 190.
Fresnes (Nord) 78. 87.

— St-Mames 317.
Fret, Le 221.
Fretes, Les 3-55.
Freteval 268.
Frethun 6.
Fretin 87.

414

INDEX.

Prevent 23. 13.
Freyr (chat.) 113.
Fricourt 72.
Froberville 69.
Froissy 24.
Fromelennes 113.
Frouard 146.
Fruges 23.
Fuans 354.
Fumay 113.
Fumes 86.

Gaillard (eliat.) 42.
Gaillefontaine 31.
Gaillon 42.
Galz, the 340.
Gamaches 36.
Gannea 24.

Garaye, La (chat.) 232.
Garde-St-Cast, La 181.
Gargan 136.
Garrot, Le 229.
Gasny 43.
Gatinais 396.
Gatteville 162.
Gavr^inis, He de 25S.
Gebweiler 323.

— Belchen, the 342.
Geispolsheim 324.
Gemaingoutte 331.
Genelard 389.
Genest, Le 206.
Geneveys - sur - CufTrane

355.
Genevreuille 305.
Genlia 377.
Gennes 237.

— Longuefuye 206. ^34.
Gerardmer 334.

— , Lac de 335.
Gerbopal 336.
Gerbeviller 324.
Gcrgy 377.
Germaine 117.
Germiguy-des-Pre'a 274.
Geroldseck 826.
Gestel 259.
Gevingey 358.
Gevrey-Chainbertin 376
Gczaincourt 24.
Ghvvelde 86.
Gicn 396.
Gignv 858.
Gilley 354.
Gilly-sur-Loire 387.
Oimiliau 218.
Girbaden 330.
Giromagny 345.
Gigors 46.

— Quest 43.

— ViUe 43. 46. 47.
Givet 113.
Givonne 131. 130.

Glatigny (chat.) 175.
Glos-Montfort 156. 42.
Goarec 218.
Godewaersvelde 17.
Gondrecourt 300. 309.
Gorey 161.

Gorgue-Estaires, La 99.
Goubert 71.
Goueaniere-Cancale, La

222. 230.
Gouloux 386.
Gonrehelles 36.
Gourin 215.
Gournay 46.
Goutted-Ridos, Lea 335.
Grainville-Goderville 67.
Grancey-le-Chateau 368.
Graud-Avranville 309.
Grandcamp 161.
Orandchamp 396.
Grande-Baume, La 354.

— Goutte (valley) 341.
Grandes-Dalles, Lea 67.
Grandfontaiue 328.
(irand-Fort 15.

— Lieu, Lac de 252.

— Luce 203.

— Morin, the 137. 292.
Grandpre 127.

Graud Ventron, Le 344.
Grandvillara 307.
Grangea, Vallce de 334.

— (Voagea) 334.
Granville 187.
Grattery 304.
Gravelines 6.
Gravelottc 124. 135.
(Traville-8te-Honoiiue64
Gravoine, La 389.
Gray 318.

Greitlenstein (chut.) 326.
Gresaun, the 341.
Grcaswciler 331.
Gi-etz-Armaiuv. 292.
Grillemont (chat.) 230.
Groix, lie de 259.
(iroaae-Pierre, Col de la

335.
Grozon 357.
Giuchet-le-Valaaae 64.
Gudiuont 308.
Guebwiller 323.
Guc'mcno-aur-ScortV 215,
Guerande 253.
Gucrard 292.
Guerbaville - la- Maille-

raye 59.
Guerche, La 404.

— de-Bretagne, La 208.
Gucrigny 383.
Guetin, Le 404.
Guibrav 190.
Guill.erville 172.

Guildo (chat.) 181.
Guillon 384.

lea-Baina 347.
Guimorals, La 226.
Guinea 22.
Guingamp 215.
Guise 106. 111.
Gunsbach 340.
Gy 318.

Haager Hiitte, the 342.
Habeaurupt 332.
Hachette 106.
Hachimette 333.
Hacourt-Graffigny 314.
Hagendingeu 133.
Haie-Griselle, La 334.
Haironville 143.
Hallue, the 22.
Halluin 88.
Ham 97.

Hambye (abbey) 180.
Han-aur-Lease 114.
Hangeat 15.
HanvGc 262.
Hareville 315.
Harfleur 6i.

Haroue 315.

Haslach 330.

Hastiere 111. 113.

Haubourdin 97.

Haul de Fclza 344.
de la Charme 335.
de la Vierge 339.

— des Feea 338.

Hautefeuille (chat.) 396.

Hautea-llivieres, Lea 112.

Haut-Lion (chat.) 177.

Hautinont 107.

Hauta-Geneveya 355.

Havre, Le 60.

Hayange 133.

Havbea 113.

Haye-du-Puits, La 179.

Hayingen 133.

Hazebrouck 17.

Hibertot (chat.) 175.

Heor-Agimont 113.

Heiligenberg 330.

Heiligenstein 326.

Heillea-Mouchy 32.

Helleuimes 87. 97.

Hemingen 325.

Ilenan (chat.) 260.

Henin-Liotard 18.

Hennebont 258.

Hennequeville 175.

Henrichemont 379.

Herblay 44.

Hcricuurt 346.

Horiu 78.

Herliaheim 323.

Hermo 294.

INDEX.

415

Hermes 33.
Ilcirouville 177.
Hesdigneul 10. 11.
llesdin 11.

Ileve, Phares de la 64.
Heycot (farm) 331. 333.
Hierges (chat.) 113.
Hievre-Pai'oissc 347.
Hirson 100.
Hisse, La 181.
Hochfeld 327.
Hogue, La 162.
Hoh-BaiT (chat.) 326.
Hoheneck 337.
IIohen-Konigsburg 331.
Hohenlandsberg 340.
Hohnack 310.
Hohwald 327.
Home, Le 176.
Home'court-Joeuf 126.
Hondschoote 83. 18.
Honfleur 172.
Hopitaux-Jougne 3S0.
Hortes 304.
Hottot 158.
Houdan 182.
Hougue, La 162.
Houilles 45.
Houle, La 227.
Houlgate 176.
Houplines 99.
Houssaye-Crevccoeur La

292.
Huelgoat-Locmaria 217.
Huiron 292.
Huismes 284.
Hutte-CouL, La 192.
Hymont - Mattaincourl

311. 315.

Ifs, Les 67.
Igea (peninsula) 129.
Igney-Avricourt 325.
llle, the 208. 222.

— etVilaine(Dep. of) 208.
Illfurth 322.

Hliers 198.

Illkirch-Grafenstaden324.

niy 130.

Imphy 390.

Indret 253.

Ingouville (Cote d') 63-5

Insel 339.

Inval 43.

Isigny 161.

Isle-Angely, L' 364.

— sur-le-Douhs, V 347.

— sur-Serein, L' 364.
Isles-Armentieres 114.
Islettes, Les 124.
Is-sur-Tille 315. 368.
Ivry 263.

— la-Bataille 59.

Jalons-les-Vigncs 139.
Jarmenil 333.
.Tarville - la - Malgrange

315. 324.
Jemelle 114.
Jemmapes 82.
Jersey 161. 188.
Jessains 300.
Jeumont 107.
Joigny 364.

— sur-Meuse 112.
Joinville 303.
Jonchery 308. 31U.
Josselin 254.
Jouarre 137.
Joue-les-Tours 284.
Jouvence 376.
Joux (fort) 379.

Jouy (Eure-et-Loire) 195

— aux-Arches 123.

— sur-Morin-le-M. 292.
Jublains 204.
Juigne-sur-Sarthe 232.
Jullouville 188.
Jumenterie, the 344.
Jumieges 65.

Jura, the 378.

Jussey 304.

Juvigny - sous - Andaine

199.
Juvisy -sur-Orge 263.
Juziers 44.

Kahlenwasen, the 340.
Kaysersberg 333.
Keramenac h (chapel) 216.
Kerfons (chapel) 216.
Kergrist (chat.) 216.
Kerhuon 218.
Kerisper 258.
Kerity '214.
Kerjean (chat.) 218.
Kerpenhir, Pointe de

255.
Kertoff 334.
Keruzore (chat.) 218.
Kestenholz 331.
Kichompre 334.
Kienzheim 333.
Kinzheim 331.
Kleinthal, the 339.
Klingenthal 326.
Kriith 343. 344.

Labarre 347.
Lacelle, La 199.
Lac-Noir (chat.) 338.
Lac-ou-Villers, Le 355.
Ladon 274.
Lagny 136.
Laifour 112.
Laigle 184. 157.
Laissey 347.

Lamarchei3l6.
Lambader 218.
Lamballe 213. 181.
Lambezellec 221.
Lamorleau 132.
Lamotte-Beuvron 400.
Landas 87.
Landebia 181.
Landemer 166.
Landerneau 218. 262.
Landevant 258.
Landevennec 221.
Landivisiau 218.
Landrecies 106.
Landsberg (chat.) 327.
Laneuville-au-Pont 127.
Langeais 235.
Langres 302.
Langrune 178.
Lanloup 214.
Lannilis 221.
Lannion 216.
Lannoy 87.

Lanvaux, Landes 254.
La on 108. 98.
Larcay 283.
Largouet (chat.) 254.
Lariviere-sous-Aigr. 1-304.
Larmont (fort) 379.
Larmor 259.
Laroche 364.
Las.say (chat.) 175.
Lateral a la Loire (canal)

3S0. 397. 404.
Laumes, Les 365.
Lausanne 380.
Lautenbach 323.
Laval 204.

— (Vosges) 333.
Lavaldieu 112.
Lavardin (chat.) 278.
Laveline 329. 334.
Laventie Q'J.
Leberau 331.
Leforest 86.
Lcgue, Le 214.
Lehon 231.

Lens 18.

Le'rouville 131. 144.
Lesneven 218.
Lessay 179.
Lestre-Quine'ville 162.
Le'tanne-Beaumont 131.
Levrezy 112.
Lezardrieux 216.
Lezinnes 365.
Liancourt-St-Pierre 47.

— sous-Clermont 25.
Liane, the 6. 7. 10.
Liart 100. 110.
Libercourt 86. 18.
Liernais 3S6.
Liesle 356.

416

INDEX.

Liesse 110.
Liessies 107.
Liffol-le-Grand 311.
Ligneville 316.
Ligny-en-Barrois 308.
Lille 88.
— , Mont de IS.
Lillebonne 64.
Lillers 18.
Limay 44,
Limeray 266.
Limea, Cit^ de 41.
Lion-d'Angers, Le 244.

— sur-Mer 177.
Lisieux 157.
Lisle-en-Barrtiis 143.
Lison 161.

Lispach, Lac dc 338.
Liverdun 146.
Livry 136.

Loches 286.
Locle, Le 355.
Locmariaquer 258. 255.
Locquirec 216.
Loctudy 261.
Lods 354.
Logelbacli 340.
Loges-Yaucottes, Les 69
Loir, the 198. 204. 232
etc.

— (chat.) 87.

Loire, the 204. 235. 2<0

337. 390. etc.
Loisy 142.
Longemaison 354.
Longemer, Lac de 386.
Longeville 144.
Longpont (Aisne) 116.

— (Seine-et-Oise) 263.
Longpre 15.

— lea-Amiens 24.
Longroy-Gamaches 36.
Longue 232.
Longueau 22. 24.
Longueil-Ste-Marie 102.
Longueville 292.
Louguyon 132. 100.
Longwy 132.

Lonlay 186.
Lona-le-Saunier 357.
Loon-Plagc 6.
Loos 97.

Lorges (chat.) 214.
Lorient 258.
Lorines 886.
Lorris 899.
Lottinghem 10.
Loude'ac 214.
Loudun 214.
l-oue. 203. 204.
Louhans 376.
Loulans-les-Fiirgcs 348.
Loupe, La 134. 199.

Louverne 194.
Louviers 59.
Luc-aur-Mer 177.
Lude, Le 204.
Ludres 315.
Lumbres 10. 23.
Lumea 129.
Luneville 324.
Lure 305. 322.
Lurey-Conflana 138.
Luttenbach 339.
Lutterbach 322. 342.
[-iitzelbourg (ruin) 326.
Liitzelburg 326.
Luvigny 328.
Luxembourg 133.
Luxeuil-les-Bains 321.
Luzarches 32.
Luzy 390.
Lyons-la-Foret 47.

Machais Qake) 339.
Madeleine, La 99.
Magny (Cote-d'Or) 377.

— en-Vexin 47, 48.
Maiche 346.
Maignelay 71.
Mailloc (chat.) 158.
Maine, the 233. 238.
Maing-Famars 99.
Maintenon 195. 184.
Maison-Dieu 384. 385.

— Rouge 292.
3Iaisons-Alfort 359.

— Laffltte 45.
Maitre-lficole, La 233.
Maix, Lac de la 328.
Maizieres (Douba) 354.

— (Lorraine) 134.
Maladrerie, La 177. 159.
Malain 366.
Malansac 254.
Malaunay 41. 65.
Malesherbes 399.
Malgre-Tout, Mont 112.
Malicorne 396.
Malo-les-Bains 86.
Malplatiuet 107.
Malvaux, Le 345.
Mamera 199.
Maniirolle 354.
Manche, the 213.
Mandeure 346.
Mane-er-Hroeck 25^.

— Kerioned 257.

— Lud 258.

— Rutual 258.
Manneville (chat.) 66.
Maus, Le 200.
Mantes 43.
Mantoche 318.
Maranvillc 301.
JIarbachc 123.

Marche, La 318.
Marchelepot 72.
Marchet (lake) 339.
Marchezais-Broue 182.
Marchiennes 79.
Marcoing 21. 73.
Marev-aur-Tille 368.
Margival 108.
Mariembourg 111.
Marigny-le-Cahouct 384.
Mariasel 35.
Markirch 331.
Marie HI.
Maries 292.
Marmagne 400.
Marmoutiers (abbev) 283.
Ma may 318.
Maromme 41.
Maron 152.
Marquion 21.
Marquise 6.
Mars-la-Tour 133.
Martignc-Ferchaud 194.
Martigny-les-Bains 316.
Martimpre, Col de 336.
Martinvast 162. 166.
Marlyre, La 218.
Masmiinster 342,
Masnieres 73.
Masaerac 212. 231.
Masaevaux 842.
Ma than X 300.
Mathay 340.
Mathieu 177.
Matignon 181.
Maubeuge 107. 82.
Maulde-Mortagne 87,
Maiirsmiinater 326.
Maxey-aur-Meuae 809.
Mavenne 193.
Meaux 137.
Mehun-sur-Yevre 400.
Meix-St-Epoing 292.
Mello (chat.) 32.
Melun 359.
Melz 294.
Menara 265.
Menaucourt 308.
Men-er-Hroeck 258.
MiinesquoviUe-Lyoiis 47.
Menetou-Salon 399.
Menil-Flin 327.
Menin 88.
Mennelstein 327.
Mennetou-aur-Cher '2i>S.
Mer 265.

Merck-St-Lie'vin 23.
Merey-Vieilley 348.
Mericourt-Ribemout 22.
Mcrlemont (chat.) 3^3.
Merlerault. Le 185.
MiToux 307,
Merrey 314. 316.

INDEX.

417

Mers 37.

Meru 32.

Merville 99.

Merxheim 323.

Mesbrecourt 111,

Meslay 206.

Mesnay-Arbois 378.

Mesnieres 45.

Mesnil-Mauger, Le 158.

Messac 212.

Messei 186. 192.

Messempre 132.

Messigny 376.

Mesves-Bulcy 398.

Mettray 204.

Metz 134.

Metzeral 340.

Meulan 44.

Meung-sur-Loire 265.

Meursault 389.

Meuse, the 111. 114. 125,
311. etc.

— , Dames de 112.

Meux, Le 102.

Mezidon 158. 176.

Mezieres-Charleville 128.

Mezy 138.

Migneres-Gondr. 399.

Milandre, Grottoes of

307.
Milesse-la-Bazoge, La204.
Miniac-Morvan 181.
Minihic, Le 229.
Miraumont 22.
Mirebeau 376.
Mirecourt 311. 315.
Miserey 318. 348.
Mohon 128.
Moleiie, Isle de 221.
Molsheim 326. 331.
Momignies 111.
Mompelgard 346.
Moncel 152.
— , Abbaye de 102.
Moncelle, La 130.
Moncey 348.
Monchaiix 36.
Mondoubleau 198.
Mens 107. 82.
— en-Pevele 78. 87.
Montabart 190.
Montagney 318.
Montaigle 114.
Montain-Lavigny 357.
Montargis 395.
Montataire 101. 32.
Montauban-de-Bretagne

213.
Mont-Auxois 365.
Montbard 365.
Montbazon 285.
Montbenoit 354.
Montbeliard 346.

Montbozon 347.
Mont Cassel 82.
Montceau-les-Mines 389.
Montchanin 389.
Montciel, the 358.
Montcontour 213.
Montcornet 110.
Montdidier 71.
Montebourg 161.
Montereau 361.
Monterolier-Buchy 31.
Montfaucon, Signal de

347.
Montferrand 356.
Montfort (chat.) 365.

— TAmaury 181.

— sur-Meu 212.
Montgeron 359.
Montgesoye 354.
Monthelon 394.
Montherme 112.
Monthureux-sur-Saone

312.
Montie'ramey 300.
Montier-en-Der 307. 300.
Monligny (Nord) 78.

— Marlotte 395.
Montivilliers 64.
Montjeu (chat.) 394.
— , Signal de 390.
Montlh^ry 263.
Montlouis 266.
Mont Maria 229.
Montmartiu 180.
Montmedy 132.
Montmille 25.
Montmirail 138.
Montmorot 358.
Mont-Notre-Dame 115.
Montoir 234. 252.
Montoire-sur-le-Loir 278.
Mont-pres-Chambord 278.
Montreal 384.
Montreuil-sur-Ille 222.

sur-Mer 10.
Montreux-Vieux 322.
Montrichard 287.
Mont-St-Eloi 11.

St-Martin 132.

St-Michel 227.
Montsauche 386.
Montsecret-Vassy 186.
Montsoult 32.
Mont-sous- Vaudrey 378.

sur-Meurthe 324.
Men villa 41.
Montviron-Sartilly 180.
Moosch 342.
Morbihan, the 255.
Mordreuc 230.
Mure'e-St-Hilaire 268.
Moret 361.
iMoreuil 103.

Baedekeb's Northern France. 3rd Edit.

Morez 378.

Morgat 221.

Morin, Lac de 212.

Moriniere (chat.) 278.

Morlaix 216.

Mormal (forest) 100. 106.

Mortagne 199. 185.

3Iortain 187.

Mortcerf 292. 137.

Morteau 354.

Mortree 185.

Morvan, Le 380.

Morvillars 307. 346.

Moselle, the 123. 126. 133.

134. 310. etc.
Motiers 379.
Motreft- 215.
Motteville 65.
Mouchard 356. 378.
Mouchy (chra.) 33.
Moulin-des-Ponts 358.
Moulineaax 59.
Moulins-Engilbert 387.

— les-Metz 126.

— sur-Yevre 404.
Moult-Argences 158.
Mourmelun 126.
Mouscron 88.
Mousson 123.
Mousterus-Bourbriac 215.
Mouthier 354.
Mouy-Bury 32.
Mouzon 131.
Moyenmoutier 328.
Muids 42.
Miilhausen 322.
Miinster (Alsace) 339.
Miinsterthal, the 339.
Mur-de-Sologne 278.
Blureaux, Les 44.
Mussy 367.

Mutzig 331.

Nacqueville (chat.) 166.
Naix-aux-Forges 308.

Menaiicourt 308.
Namur 114.
Nancois-Tronville 144.
Nancy 146.
Nangis 292.
Nantes 245.
Nanteuil-Saacy 138.
Naours 24.
Napoleonville 215.
Navilly 376.
Neaufles 43.
Nehou 179.
Nemours 395.
Nerondes 404.
Nesle 97.

St-Saire 46.
Neubourg, Le 156.
Neuchatel 356.

27

418

INDEX.

Neufcliateau 311.
Neufchatel-en-Bray 45.
Neuille-Pont-Pierre 204.
Neuilly (Calvados) 161.

— St-Front 115.
•Neuntenstein 327.
Neuves-Maisons 315.
Neuville 192.

— sous-Montreuil 11.
Neuvillers 330.
Neuvy-sur-Loire 397.
Never.'? 404,
Neville 65.
Nideck 330.
Nieppe (forest) 18.
Niort 237.
Nivernais, the 405.
— , Canal du 382.
Noeux 18.
Nogent-rArtaud 138.

— le-Roi 184.

— le-Rotrou 199.

— sur-Marne 291.

— sur-Seine 204.

— sur-Vernisson 390.
Nointot 64.

Noir, Lac 338.
— , Mont 18.
Noiraigue 379.
Noires, Montagnes 215.
Noirgoutte 3.j2.
"Noirmoutiers 252.
Noisiel 136.
Noisseville 135.
Noisy-le-Sec 136.
Nolay 391.
Nomain 87.
Nona en y 123.
Nonancourt 184.
Nonant-le-Pin 185.
Normandy 49.
Nort 252.
Notre-Darae-d'' Amour 82.

— — de-la-Delivrande
177.

des-Aides 343.

des-Trois-Epis 340

Nouan-le-Fuzelier 4U0.
Nouzon 112.
Noveant 123.
Noyalo 255.
Noyant-BIo'on 198.
Noyelles 11.
Noyon 103.
Nozeroy 378.
Nuits St-Georges 3-^8.

— sous-Raviores 365.

0 (chateau) 185.
Ober-Ehnheim 326.
Octeville 71.
Oderen 343.
— , Col d' 344.

Odilienherg, the 327.
Oiry-Mareuil 139.
Oisemont 15.
Oissel 42.
Olivet 274.

Omonville-la-Rogue 166.
Onival 37.
Onnaing 82.
Onville 133.
Onzain 265.
Orbec 158.
Orbey 333.
Orchies 87. 78. 79.
Origny-en-Thierache HI.
Orleanais, the 270.
Orleans 270.

— Ceinture 262.
Ornans 354.
Orrouv 103.
Orrv-Coye 101.
Ors' 106.

Ortenburg (chat.) 331.
Orval-Hvenville 180.
Osne, Val d' 308.
Osselle 356.
Ostheim 323.

Otrott 326.
Oudeuil 25.
Oudon 233.
Ouessant, He d' 221.
Ougney 318.
Ouistrcham 177.
Oulchy-Breny 115. 138.
Outreau 11.
Ouzouer-Dampierre 274.

— sur-Trezee 396.
Ozouer-la-Ferriere 292.

Pacy-sur-Eure 43. 59.
Pagny-la-Blanche-C6te

30; I.

— sur-Meuse 145.

— sur-Moselle 123. 133.
Paillv, Le 303.
Paimboeuf 252.
Paimpol 216.

Palais, Le 257.
Palinges 389.
Palluau-St-Genou 288.
Paluden 221.
Paluel 67.
Pan tin 136.
Paraclet (abbey) 295.
Parame 225.
Paray-le-Monial 389.
Pargny-la-Dhuis 138.
Parigne 203.
Paris-rHopital 390.

— Plage 11.
Paris (abbey) 333.
Pas, Le 214'.

— d'llle, Le 222.
I Passage, Le 218.

Passavant 312.
Passenans 357.
Patay 59.

Pavillon-les-Grancev 368.
Pavilly 65.
Ville 65.
Pays de Caux 65.
Pempoul 217.
Penmarch 261.
Penthievre (fort) 256.
Pe'ran (camp) il4.
Perche, Le 199.

— (forest) 184.

— , Lac de la 341.
Pereire (chat.) 292.
Pe'riers 179.
Peronne 72.
Perrav, Le 194.

— Vaucluse 263.
Perros-Guirec 216.
Persan-Beaumont 32.
Pe'ruwelz 79.
Petange 133.
Petit-Ballon, Le c'40.

— Couronne 59.

— Croix 322.

— Houvin 23.
Petites-Dalles, Les 67.
Pc'trus=>e, the 133.
Pevele, La 87.
Pezou 268.
Pfalzburg 326.
Picardy 26.
Picquignv 15.
Pierre 378.
Pierrefitte-Stains 10].
Pierrefonds 102.
Pierrepont 133.

Pin (chat.) 357.
Pinev 300,
Pirou 179.
Pithiviers 399. 264.
Plaine, the 328.

— St-Denis, La 115.
Plain faing 332.
Plaisir-Grignon 181.
Plancoet 181.

Plan de Suzan, the 366.
Pleine-Fougeres 227.
Plen^e-Jugon 213.
Pleneuf 213.
Pleslin-Plouer 232.
Plessis Belleville, Le 1J5.

— les-Tours 2S3.
Plestin-les-Greves 216.
Pleudihen 181. 230.
Pleurtuit 232.
Pleyben 262.
Plevber-Christ 218.
Plixburg 340.
Ploemel 256.
Plocrmel 254.
Ploezal 216.

INDEX.

419

Plogoff, Enfer de 262.
Plombieres (Cote-d'Or)
366.

— lea-Bains 318.
Plouaret 216.
Ploudalmezeau 221.
Plouec 216.
Plouegat-Moysan 216.
Plouenan 217.
Plouer 230.
Plouezec 214.
Plougasnou 218.
Plougastel 218.
Plougonven-Plourin 217.
Plouba 214.
Ploubarnel 257.
Plouigneau 216.
Ploumanac''h 216.
Ploune'our-Trez 218.
Plouneriri 216.
Plourivo-Lezardrieux216.
Plouvara-Plerneuf 215.
Plouvorn 218.
Pluvignier 215.

Poilly 396.

Poilvache (chat.) 114.
Poinson-Beneuvre 368.
Pointe, La 233.
Poirier, Le 99.

— au-Chien, Le 394.
Poiseux 383.
Poi-'sons 300.
Poissv 44.

Poix 31.
Poligny 357.
Pollet, Le 39.
Pommard 389.
Pomnaerit-.Taudy 216.
Pommoy, Le 394.
Pompey 123.
Pontailler 318.
Pont-a-Marcq 78.

— a-Mimsson 123.
Pontarlier 378.
Pontaubault 180.
Pontaubert 384.
Pont-Audemer 156.
Pont-Aven 260.

— a-Vendin 18.

— Charrot 394.
Pontchartrain (cbat.l 181.
Pont Chateau 253. 234.

— Croix 261.

— d'Ardres 15.

— de-Braye 198.

— de-Briques 11.

— de-Coulogne 15.

— de-Gennes-Montfort
200.

— de-la-Deule 78. 86.

— de-FArche 42.

— de-Roide 346.

— d'Hery 378.

Pont-d'Oucbe 391.

— Erambourg 192.
Pontgouin 199.
Pontigny 364.
Pontivy 214.
Pont-rAbbe 261.

— FEveque 172.
Pontlip.ue 200.
Pont-Maugis 131.

— Melvez 215.
Pontoise 48.
Pontorson 227. 181.
Pont-Remy 14.
Pontrieux 216.
Pont-St- Vincent 315.

— Ste-Marie 300.

— Ste-Maxence 102.
Ponts-de Ce, Les 244.
Pont-sur-Seine 295.
Pordic 214.

Pornic 252.
Pornicbet 253.
Porrentruy 307.
Port-a-Binson 139.
Portbail 161.
Port-Boulet 235.

— d'Atelier 304. 317.

— en-Bessin 161.

— Haliguen 257.

— Launay 262.

— le-Grand 12.

— Louis 259.

— Maria 257.

— Navalo 255,
Portrieux 214.
Port-Royal (abbey) 194.

— sur-Saone 304.
Portzic 221.

Poses, Barrage de 42.
Possonniere, La 233.
Potelle (cbat.) 99.
Poterie, La 71.
Potbieres 367,
Pouance 234. 206.
Pougues-les-Eaux 398.
Pouillenay 384.
Pouilly-en-Auxois 363.

sur-Loire 397.

8ur-Vingeanne 376.
Pouldu, Le 260.
Pouliguen, Le 253.
Poullaouen 217.
Poupet, Mont 356.
Pourville 41.
Poussay 310. 315.
Poutroye, La 332.
Praye - sur - Vaudemont

315.
Pre-en-Pail 199. 194.
Prefailles 252.
Pre'mery 382.
Premontre 108.
Preny (chat.) 123.

Presle, La 341.
Prey 156.
Primel 218.
Prouvy-Thiant 111.
Provencheres 330.
Provins 293.
Puiseaux 399.
Puix, Le 345.
Puligny 389.
Punerot 314.
Puys 41.

Cluarre-les-Tombes 385.
Quatre-Fils-Aymon,
Rochers des 112.
Quemeneven 262.
Quend-Fort-Mahon 11.
_^uerqueville 166.
Q.uesnoy, Le 99. 74.
Questembert 254.
quettreville 180.
QueviUy 59.
Quevy 107.
Quiberon 256.
Quiberville 41.
(^)uievrain 82.
QuiUeboeuf 156.
Quimerc^h 262.
Quimper 260.
Quimperle 259.
Quincampoix 36.
Quineville 162.
Quinipily (chat.) 215.
tiuinlin 214.
Quirouard 252.

Radepont 47.
Raincy-Villem imble, Le

136.
Raismes 79.

— Vicoigne 86.
Rambercbamp, Vallee de

335.
Rambervillers 310.
Rambouillet 194.
Rambures (chat.) 15.
Ramstein (chat.) 331.
Ranee, the 181. 213.

225.
Ranchot 347.
Rang -du- Fliers -Verton

11.
Ranville 176.
Raon-rEtape 328.

— sur-Plaine 328.
Rappoltsweiler 323.
Rathsamhausen 326.
Raucourt 132.
Rauenthal, the 331.
Raves 331.

Ray (chat.) 317.
Raz, Pointe du 262.
Recey-sur-Ource 368.

27*

420

INDEX.

Rechicourt-le-Chateau

325.
Recquignies 107.
Redon 254. 234.
Rehon 132.
Reichersberg 188.
Reims, see Rheims.
Reine Blanche, Chat, de

la 101.
Reinkopf, the 389.
Reisberg, the 338.
Rembercourt-aux-Pots

144.
Remilly (Lorraine) 135.

131.

— (Nievre) 390.
Remiremont 340.
Remoneix 330.
Remoncnurt 315.
Renens 380.
Renesciire 17.
Rennes 208.
Rethel 127.
Rethondes 102.
Retiers 212.
Retournemer, Lac 336.
Revigny-sur-rOrnain 143.
Revin 112.
Rezonville 185.
Rheims 118.

Rhine and Marne Canal
143. 308. 326. 327.

Rhine and Rhone Canal
307. 822. 324. 376. 377.

Rhuis (peninsula) 255.

Ribemont 106.

Richardais, La 229.

Richemont 138.

Rieding 32').

Rigney 848.

Rilly-la-Montagne 117.

Rimaucourt 311.

Rimeux-Gournay 23.

Rimogne 100.

Ris-Orangia 359.

Riva Bella 177.

Rivarenncs 284.

Rixingen 325.

Kochanibeau (chat.) 278.

Roche (Doubs) 347.

— , La (Finistere) 218.

— (chat.) 230.
Rochebonne 225.
Rochecotte fchat.) 235.
Roche-Derrien, La 216.

— en-Bre'nil, La 385.
Rochefort (Belgium) 114.

— (Jura) 347.

— en-Terre 254.
Roche-Guyon, La 48.

— Jagu (chat.) 216.
Rochepot (chat.) 391.
Rochera (chat.) 207.

Roches, Lea 278.
— , Col des 355.
— , Vallee dea 321.
Rochesson 385.
Rochy-Conde 83.
Rocroi 113. 100.
Rodane 132.
Rody, Le 218.
Roeux 74.
Roiael 72. 106.
Roisin 74.

Roitelets, Gorge des 334.
Roland, Mont 377.
Rolleboise 43.
Romanaweiler 326.
Romeree 111.
Romilly-sur-Seine 295.
Romorantin 278, 279.
Ronchamp 305.
Rond-d'Orleans 104.
Roque, La 42.
Rosaye (farm) 344.
Roscolf 217.
Rosheim 326.
Rosieres 97. 72.

— aux-Salines 324.
Rosiers, Les 237.
Rosny (Seine-et-Oiae) 43.

— aous-Boia 291.
Rosporden 260. 215.
Rosirenen 214. 218.
Rosult 87.
Rothau 330.

Rothenbachkopf, the 339.
Rotheneuf 226.

Kothe Wasen 841.
Roubaix 88.

— Wattreloa 87. 88.
Rouen 48.

Archbiahop'a Palace 52.
Bourae 53.
Bridgea 53.

Bureau des Finances 52.
Cathedral 51.
Ceiamic Collection 56.
Chambre aux Clerca 57.
Chapelle St. Romain

53.
Church of Bonsecours

58.

— of Xotre Dame 51.

— of St. Clement 53.

— of St. Gervaia 58.

— of St. Godard 56.

— of St. Laurent 06.

— of St. Maclou 52.

— of St. Ouen 56.

— of St. Patrice 58.

— of St. Romain 50.

— of St. Sever 53.

— of St. Vincent 53.

— of St. Vivien 57.
Corneille's Houses 54.

Rouen :
Coura Boieldieu 53.
Douane 53.
Exchange 53.
Fontaine Ste. Marie 57.
Hallea, Anciennes 53.
Hotel de Ville 57.

— du Bourgtheroulde
54.

Library, Municipal 56.
Lycee Corneille 57.
Maison Sauton-Gouion

52.
Monument of Joan of

Arc 58.

— of Pouyer-Quertier
54.

— of the Abbe de la
Salle 53.

Musee-Bibliotheque 54.
Museum of Antiquities

57.
— , Commercial 50.

— of Nat. Hiat. 57.
Palaia de Justice 50.
Place de la Pucelle 54.
Plantes, Jardiu des 53.
Quays 53.

Railv?av Stations 48.
50. 53.

Socie'tesSavantes, Hotel
des 50.

St. Sever (suburb) 58.

Solferino, Jardin 50.

Statue of Armand Car-
rel 50.

— of Boieldieu 53.

— of Bouilhet 56.

— of Corneille 53. 57.

— of Joan of Arc 57.
58.

— of Louis XV. 57.

— of Napoleon I. 57.
Theatre des Arts 53. 49.

— Francais 49.

Tour de Jeanne d'Arc
50.

— de la Grosse Hor-
loge 50.

— St. Andre 54.
Vieux-Marche 54.

Rouge 234.

Rouge -Gazon, Chaume

du 341.
Roiigemont 342,
Rouilly-St-Loup 300.
Rouville (chat.) 399.
Rouvray-Ste-Croix 264.
Rouvres-Baudricourt 311.
Rouxraesnil 41. 45.
Roye 72. 102.
Ro/ieres-sur-Mouzon 316.
Rudlin, Le 332.

INDEX.

421

Rue (Soinme) 11.

— St-Pierre, La 24.
Rufach 323.
Riigles 157.
Rumes 78.
Rumigny 100.
Rumilly-lcs-Vaudes 367,
Runesto (dolmen) 257.
Ruppes 314.

Rupt de Mad, the 133.

— sur-Moselle 3il.

Saales 330.
Saai'briicken 133.
Saarburg 325. 135.
Saargemiind 133.
Sable 232.
Saincaize 404.
Sainghin-en-Melantois 87.
St. Aignan-Noyers 287.
St.Amand(Valenc.) 86.

(Cher) 404.

, Baths of 87.

de-Vendome 270.

St. Amarin 342.

St. Amond (forest) 310.

St. Amour 358.

St. Andre, Mont 356.

de-FEure 156.

d'Hebertot 175.

les-Lille 99.

St. Antoine-du-Rocher

204.
St. Aubin-St-Luperce 199.

sur-Loire 387.

sur-Mer 178.

St. Ay 265.

St. Baslemont 316.

St. Benoit-St-Aignan 274.

sur-Loire 274.

d'Hebertot 175.

St. Blaise-Poutay 330.

St. Bonnet-en-Bresse 376,

St, Briac 226.

St. Brieuc 213.

St. Calais 199.

St. Cast 181.

St. Cheron 267.

St. Claude 358.

St. Clement 327,

St. Coulomb 227.

St. Cyr 181.

St. Denis (Seine) 101.

Jargeau 274.

St. Die 328.
St. Dizier 307.
St-Eloi, Mont 11.
St. Enogat 226.
St. Etienne 341.

de-Montluc 253.

du Rouvray 42.

St. Eulien 307.
St. Fargeau 396.

St. Fiacre 260.

St. Florentin-Vergigny

364.
St. Florent-le-Vieil 233.
St. Gabriel (priory) 178.
St. Gatien 175.
St. Gengoux 389.
St. Genou 28S.
St. Georges-de-Boscher-

ville (abbey) 58.

sur-Eure 156.

sur-Loire 233.

St. Gerand 214.

St. Germain (Meuse)

309.

de-Clairfeuille 185.

de-Louviers 59.

la-Feuille 366.

sur-Ay 179.

sur-Ille 222.

St-Remy 184.

St. Germer 35.

St. Gildas, Pointe de 252.

de Rhuis 256.

St. Gobain 104.
St. Guenolc 261.
St. Herbot 217.
St. Hilaire-au- Temple

98. 124. 127.

de-Chale'ons 252.

du-Harcouet 187.

Fontaine 387.

St. Hippolyte 346.
St. Honore-les-Bains

387.
St. Jacut-de-la-Mer 181.
St. Jean, Pointe 229.

de-Bray e 274.

— — de-Losne 376.

du-Doigt 218. 216.

le-Thomas 188.

St. Josse 11.

St. Jouan (bav) 229.

St. Jouin 71.

St. Julien (Aube) 367.

(Brittany) 214.

— de-Vouvantes 234.

du-Sault 364.

sur-Suran 358.

St. Just-en-Chaussee 24.

les-Marais 25.

St. Kreuz 331.

St. Laurent-du-Jura 378,

du-Poldour (chapel)

216.

la-Roche 358.

St. Le'ger-les-Domart 15,

sous-Beuvray 394.

Sully 391.

St. Leonard (Seine-In-

ferieure) 69.

(Vosges) 329.

St. Leu-d'Esserent 32.

St. L6 161.

St. Lothain 357.

St. Loup(Hte. Sa6ne)317.

— (chat.) 274.

— de-la-Salle 378.

— de-Naud 292.
St. Ludwig 322.
St. Lunaire 226.
St. Malo 223.

St. Mammes 361.

St. Mars-la-Briere 200.

— la-Jaille 235.
St. Martin, Cote 329.

— , — Brionne 156.
d'Audouville-Vau-

dreviUe 162.

— deBoschervillc 58.
le-Beau 283.

^ sur-Ouanne 396.

St. Mathieu, Pointe 221.

St. Mathurin 237.

St. Maurice (abbey) 260.

(Jura) 347.

sur-Moselle 341.

St. Maximin 101.

St. Medard (Soissons) 117.

sur-Ille 222.

St. Mesmin (chap.) 274.
St. Michel-des-Loups 183.

— Sougland 100.

— sur-Orge 263.
St. Mihiel 131.

St. Nazaire 253.

St. Nicolas-des-Eaux 215.

— de-Port 324.
St. Omer 15.

— en-Chaussee 25.
St. Ouen (chat.) 234.
le-Pin 158.

St. Pair 188.

St. Parres-les-Vaudes367.

St. Patrice 235.

St. Pere-en-Retz 252.

— — sous-Vezelay 384.
St. Pierre (IVIorbihan) 256.

de-Mailloc 158.

des-Corps 266. 283.

du-Vauvray 42.

en-Port 67.

les-Calais 5.

Quilbignon 221.

sur-Dives 189.

St. Pilt (St. Hippol.) 323.
St. Planchers 187.
St. Point, Lac de 380.
St. Pol 23. 11. 13.

de-Leon 217.

St. Quay 214.
St. Quentin 104.

Plage 11.

St. Renan 221.
St. Rimay 278.
St. Riquier 13.

422

INDEX.

St. Roch (Amiens) 15. 25

St. Samson 232.

St. Satur 397.

St. Sauveur-en-Puisaie

396.

Lendelin 179.

le-Vicomte 179.

St. Servan 225.

St. Sever (Calvados) 187.

(Rouen) 53.

St. Souplet 111.

St. Suliac 229.

St. Sulpice-de-Favieres

267.
St. Sylvain-Briollay 233.
St. Thegonnec 218."
St. I^rsanne 346.
St. Vaast 175.

(Soissons) 117.

Bosville 65. 41.

la-Hoogue 162.

St. Valbert 322.

St. Valery-en-Caux 65.

sur-Somme 11.

St. Venant 99.

St. Viaud 252.

St. Victor 41.

St. Vincent-des-Landes

234.
St. Waast 78.

la Valle'e 82.

St. Wandrille 65.
Ste. Adresse 6i.
Ste. Agnes 358.
Ste. Anne-d'Aurav 256.

la-Palue 261.

Ste. Colombe 367.
Ste. Croix 214.

aux-Mines 331.

Ste. Gauburge 157. 184.
Ste. Marguerite 41. 380.
Ste. Marie -aux-Mines

381.
— — de-la-Pierre-qui-

Vire 885.
Ste. Menehould 124.
Ste. Mesme 267.
Ste. Pazanne 252.
Ste. Suzanne 204.
Salbert. Mont, du 305.
Salbris 400.
Saleux 25. 31.
Salins 356.
Salmaise 366.
Samer 10.
Sancerre 397.
Sancoins 404.
Santenay 389.
Santerre, Le 72. 97.
San vie 71.
Sapois 348.
Sarge 198.
Sarraz, La 380.

Sarrebourg 325. 135.
Sars-Poteries 107.
Sarzeau 255.
Sassegnies 106.
Sassetot-le-Mauc. 67.
Satory (plateau) 181.
Saulces-Monclin 128.
Saulcy 329.
8aulges 206.
Saulieu 385.
Saulxures-sur-Mos. 343.
Saumur 235. 232.

— Orleans 198.
Saussay-les-Ecouis 47.
Saut-Broc 333.

— de la Bourrique 335.

— de la Truite 345.

— des Cuves 334. 336.

— du Boucbot 343.

— du Doubs 355.
Savenay 253.
Saverne 326.
Savigny-en-Septaine 404.

— sur-Orge 263.
Savonnerie. Fort de la

3.^3.
Savonnieres 235.
Scaer 215.

Scarpe, La 11. 19. 74. 86.
Sceaux 199.
Scherweiler 326.
Schirmeck-Vorbruck330.
Schlag 330.
Scblettstadt 323.
Scblosswald, the 339.
Schlucht, the 337.
Schmargult 338.
Schneeberg, the 326.
Schnierlach 332.
Sihw arzenburg(ruin)339.
."-'chwarze See, the 338.
Sebourg 82.
Seclin 86.
Sedan 129.
Sees 190.
Segre 234.
Sein (islet) 262.
Seine, Sources of the 366.
Selle, La 394.

en-Luitrd,La207. 194.
Selles-sur-Cher 288.
Selongev 314.
Seniblancay 204.
Semur-en-Auxois 384.
Senart (forest) 359.
Senlis 101.
Sennbeim 342.
Senonches 184.
Senones 328.
Sens 362.

Lvon 364. 396.
Sept-Saulx 126.
Sermaize 143.

Sermizelles 383.
Serqueux 31. 46.
Serquigny 157.
Serrant (chat.) 233.
Servance 345.
— , Ballon de 345.
Servon-Tanis 180.
Settons Lea 386.
Seurre 376.
Severae 253.
Seveux 317.
Sewen 342.
Sezanne 292. 139.
Sigolsheim 333.
Sille-le-Guillaume 204.
Sillery 126.
Sinceny 104.
Sincev-lcs-Rouvray 385.
Sion 315.
Soissons 116.
Solesmes (Kord) 106. 74.

111.
— (Sarthe) 232.
Soligny-la-Trappe 185.
Sologne, La 4(30.
Solre-le-Chriteau 107.
Solterres 396.
Somain 78.
Sommery 31.
Sommesous 292. 300.
Sorcy 145. 300.
Sottevast 162.
Sotteville 42.
Souge-sur-Braye 278.
.■i(iulos.<e 314.
Soultzeren, Lac de 338.
Souppes 395.
Source, Chat, de la 274.
— , Roche de la 337.
Sourdeval 186.
Sous-le-Bois 107.
Spesburg 327.
Stalon, Col de 345.
Steenbecque 18.
Steinburg 327.
Steinthal 330.
Stenay 131.
Stornsee 341.
Stival 215.
Stossweier 339.
Strassburg 327.

■inio (chat.) 255.
Suevres 265.
Sullv-sur-Loire 399. 274.
Sulzbach 340.
Sulzbad 326.
Sulzer Belchen 342.
Sulzern 339.
Surdon 185.
Surgv 382. 396.
Suze,' La 232.
Suzon, Val 376.
Svndicat-St-Amc 343.

INDEX.

423

Tagnon 127.
Taillefer 114.
Talmay 318.
Tamines 108.
Tamnay-Chatillon 386.
Tancarville (chat.) 64.
Tanet, Roche du 388.
Tanlay 365.
Tantonville 315.
Tatihou (isles) 162.
Taule-Henvic 217.
Tavaux 378.
Teille 235.
Templeuve 87.
Tendon (waterfall) 333.
Tergnier 104. 98.
Thann 342.

Thaon-les-Vosges 310.
Theillay 400.
Thenioux 288.
Therdonne 33.
Therouanne 11.
Thesee 287.
Thiaucourt 133.
Thiaville 328.
Thiennes 18.
Thierache, La 111.
Thilay 112.
Thillot, Le 341.
Thionville 138.
Thomery 361.
Thore-la-Rochette 278.
Thuin 108.
Thuisy 126.
Tierce 233.
TiUeul, Le 71.
Tillieres 184.
Tinchebray 186.
Tlrancourt (camp) 15.
Tonuerre 364.
Tonquedec (chat.) 216.
Torpes 356.
Torvilliers 364.
Testes 59.
Toucy-Moulins 396. 397,

— Villa 396.
Touffreville-Criel 41.
Toul 145.
Touques 173.

— (forest) 175.
Touquet, Le 11. 99.
Touraine, the 279.
Tourcoing 88.

— les-Francs 88.
Tourgeville-les-Sablons

175.
Tourlaville (chat.) 166.
Tournai 97. 78. 87.
Tournes 100. 110.
Tourouvre 184.
Tours 279.
Tourville 157. 180.
Toury 264.

Tout-Blanc, Lac 338.
Tracy-Sancerre 897.
Trappe, La 185.
Trappcs 194.
Travers 379.

, Val de 379.
Tregastel 216.
T.eguier 216.
Trelaze 237.
Trelon (forest) 107.
Tremblois, Le 100.
Trepass^s, Baie des 262.
Treport, Le 37.
Trestraou 216.
Tre-trignel 216.
Treveray 309.
Treves 133. 237.
Triaucourt 143.
Triel 44.
Trigueres 396.
Trilport 137.
Trinite-de-Reville 157.

— sur-Mer 258.
Troissy 138.
Troo 278.
Trouville 173.
Troyes 295.

— Preize 300. 364.
Truche, La 332.
Truttenhauscn 326.
Trye- Chateau 47.
Tumiac, Butte de 255.
Turkheim 340.

Uckange, or
Ueckingen 133.
Urbach (Fouday) 330.

— (Freland) 333.
Urbeis 333.
Urbes, or
Urbis 342.
Urmatt 330.
Urzy 383.
Ushant 221.

Vaas 204.
Vacherie, La 42.
Vagney 343.
Vaires-Torcy 136.
Vaivre 304. 317.
Val-Andre, Le 213.
Val-Courbe 376.
Val-d^Ajol, Le 317.
Val-d'Osne 308.
Valenciennes 79.
Valentignv 142. 300. 307,
Valleres 284.
Vallerois-le-Bois 347.
Valleroy 126.
Vallerv 361.
Vallorbe 380.
Valmont 69.
Valmy 124.

Valognes 16?.
Valtin, Le 382. 836.
Vandenesse 387.
Vanifosse 330.
Vannes 254.
Varades 233.
Varangeville 41.

— St-Nicolas 324.
Varenne, the 193.

— (chat.) 23i.
Varennes- en-Arg. 127.

— sur-Loire 235.
Varzv 382.

Vassv (Hte. Marne) 307.

— (Yonne) 383.
Vattetot-sur-Mer 69.
Vaucluse 263.
Vaucottes 69.
Vaucouleurs 309.
Vaufrey 346.
Vaumoise 115.
Vauxaillon 108.
Vaux-le-Penil (chat.)

359.
Vecoux 841.
Velars 866.
Vellexon 317.
Velosnes-Torgny 132.
Velu-Bertincourt 21.
Vcndenheim 327.
Vendeuvre 300.

— Jort 189.
Vendome 268.
Ventron 344.
— , Col de 3U.
Verberie 103.
Verdun 124. 181.

— sur-le-Doubs 878.
Veretz 283.
Vereux 317.
Verjux 877.
Vermand 106.
Vermenton 388.
Verneuil (Eure) 184.

— TEtang 292.
Vernon 43.
Vernonnet 43.
Vernouillet 44.
Verrerie-de-Portieux, La

810.
Verrey 366.
Verriere, La 194.
Verrieres- France 379.

— Suisse 379.
Verron 232. 238.
Versailles 181.
Versigny 98.
Ver-sur-Mer 178.
Vert, Lac 388.
Vertus 139.
Vervins 111.
Ver/.y 122.
Vesoul 304.

424

1 c P n ^ J* o

Veu4syB.D U « ^
Veulettes 67.
Veuves 266.
Vexaincouit 328.
V^zelay 385.
V^zelise 315.
Vic-sur-Seille 152.
Vienne-la-Ville 127.
Vierge de la Creuse 336.
Vierzon 400.
Vierzy 116.
Viessoix 186.
Vieux-Conde 79.

— Moulin 257.
Vignacourt 24.
Villabe 359.
Villaines 232.
Villebon (chat.) 199.
Villecliauve 270.
Villedieu-les-Poeles 187.
Villedomer 270.
Ville-es-Nonais, La 229.
Villefranclie - d'Allier

404.

— sur-Cher 279. 288.
Villegusien 314.
Villeneuve- rArcheveque

364.

— le-Comte 137.

— St-Gcorgea 359.

— .9ur-Yonne 36i.
Villequier 65.
Villers-Bretonneux 97.

— Cotterets 115.
Villersexel 305. 347.
Yillers-le-Sec 347.

— Plouich 72.

— St-Sepulcre 33.

— sur-Mer 175.

— sur-There 32.
Villerupt-Micheville 132.
Villerville 175.

INDEX.

Villetrun - Coulommiers

278.
Villette-St-Prest 195.
Villiers-le-See 301.

— Neauphle 181.

— St-Benoit 396.

— sur-Mame 291.
Vimont 158.
Vimoutiers 158.
Vineuil-St-Claude 278.
Vingt-Hanaps 191.
Violaines 18. 97.
Vire 186.

Vireux-Molbain 113.
Virton 132.

Vitre 206.

Vitrev 304.

Vitry (Pas-de-Calais) 74.

— la-Ville 142.

— le-Francois 142.

— sur-Seine 263.
Vitteneur 67.
Vittel 315.

Vivuin-Beaumont 192.
Vivy 198.

Voisey 304.
Voivres 232.
Volnay 389.
Vorbruck 330.
Vosges, the 305. 328.
Vougeot 387.
Voujeaucourt 347.
Voulx 361.
Vouvray 266.
Vouziers 127.
Voves 59. 267.
Voyemont, the 330.
Vrigne-aux-Bois 129.

— Meuse 129.
Vuillafans 354.
Vulaines-sur-Seine-Sa-

moreau 359.

Walbach 340.
Walineourt 106.
Wallers 79.
Walsche Belchen 344.
Wangenburg 326.
Wanzel 331.
Wasselnheim 326.
Wasserburg 340.
Wassigny 106. 111.
Wa?sy 307.
Watten 15.

Watteringues, Les 83.
Wattignies 86.
— la-Victoire 107.
Wattrelos 88.
Waulsort 113.
Wavrans 23. 11.
Wavrin 18. 97.
Weier-im-Thal 340.
Weiler 331. 342.
Weilerthal 331.
Weisse ."^ee, the 338.
Wesserling 342.
Wildenstein 343.
Wimille-Wimereux 6.
Winzenheim 340.
Wissant 6.
Wissembach 331.
Witry-les-Eeims 127.
Wittelsheim 323.
Woippy 135.

Yainville-Jumieges 65.
Yffiniac 213.
Yport 69.
Ypres 18. 97.
Yvetot 64.
Yvoir 114.
Yvre-rEveque 200.

Zabern 326.
Zillisheim 322.

Leipsic: Printed by Breilkopf * Hiirtcl.

Wagner l]X«es,Lei)i.i J.

Xes numeros ( #, 5, etc.) designent Us departements . Les noms des ehefs-liauc :
KSeine-Inttrieure, 5,0isc, ID.Seine-et- Oise ^ ll.Smie; 12,Eiire, H.CalvaJos, WJtanche/ IS.Ome,- 16.Eiire-et-Loir, IZLoircI, 28J.oir-et-Cher,29.Sarthe,.30,lrayBnne, 31,IIlc- et-VU
32, C5tts-diiNord. 33,Finistere; St.MorMhaji. SS.Lmre-Brfi'riinire, Se.Miiiiif-et-loire, 37,lmire -rt-^oire,- 38,Inare, 50,Crinise.. 52,D(Tir-SeTrcs;53,T^nmf;5*ypnd^e SS.Chareme-Infeneure

•r- u-^

1

i

Baedker K - Northern France,

PONTIFICAL INSTITUTE
OF MEDIAEVAL STUDIES

b9 queen's park
Toronto 5. Canada

• 12757